A GIRL'S RIDE IN ICELAND. 

[Illustration: MRS. ALEC TWEEDIE. _After a painting by Herbert Schmalz. _]

A GIRL'SRIDE IN ICELAND

BYMRS. ALEC TWEEDIE(_Née_ HARLEY). 

AUTHOR OF "A WINTER JAUNT TO NORWAY, " WITH PERSONALACCOUNTS OF NANSEN, IBSEN, BJÖRNSEN, AND BRANDES;"THE OBERAMMERGAU PASSION PLAY, " ETC. 

 "Iceland shone with glorious lore renowned A Northern light, when all was gloom around. " _Montgomery. _

_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP. _

SECOND EDITION. 

LONDON: HORACE COX, WINDSOR HOUSE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS, E. C. 

1894. 

_The Rights of Translation and Reproduction are reserved. _

_PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION_

When this little volume (my maiden effort) was published five years ago, it unwittingly originated an angry controversy by raising the question"Should women ride astride?"

It is astonishing what a great fire a mere spark may kindle, andaccordingly the war, on what proved to be a very vexed subject, wagedfast and furious. The picture papers inserted cleverly-illustratedarticles _pro. _ and _con. _; the peace of families was temporarilywrecked, for people were of course divided in their opinions, and bitterthings were said by both sides concerning a very simple and harmlessmatter. For a time it seemed as though the "Ayes" would win; buteventually appearances carried the day, and women still use side saddleswhen on horseback, though the knickerbockers and short skirts (only farshorter) I advocated for rough country riding are now constantly worn bythe many female equestrians who within the last couple of years havemounted bicycles. 

It is nearly four years since, from an hotel window in Copenhagen, Isaw, to my great surprise, for the first time a woman astride a bicycle!How strange it seemed! Paris quickly followed suit, and now there is aperfect army of women bicyclists in that fair capital; after a decentshow of hesitation England dropped her prejudices, and at the presentminute, clad in unnecessarily masculine costume, almost without amurmur, allows her daughters to scour the country in quest of fresh airastride a bicycle. 

If women may ride an iron steed thus attired, surely they might bepermitted to bestride a horse in like manner clothed, and in likefashion. 

In past times women have ridden in every possible position, and in everypossible costume. They have ridden sideways on both the near and offsides, they have ridden astride (as the Mexicans, Indians, Tartars, Roumanians, Icelanders, &c. , do to-day), and they have also riddenpillion. Queen Elizabeth rode thus behind the Earl of Leicester onpublic occasions, in a full hoop skirt, low-necked bodice, and largeruffs. Nevertheless, she dispensed with a cavalier when out hunting, atthe ripe age of seventy-six. 

When hunting, hawking, or at tournaments, women in the middle agesalways rode astride in this country, reserving their side saddles merelyfor state functions. Judging from old pictures, they then mountedarrayed in full ball dresses, in long-veiled headdresses (time ofEdward II. ), and in flowing skirts, while their heads were oftenornamented with huge plumed hats. 

Formerly, every church door, every roadside inn, had its horse block or"jumping-on stone"--called in Kent and some other southern counties the"joist stone, " and in Scotland the "louping-on stane. " These werenecessary in the olden days of heavy armour, and at a time when womenrode astride. Men can now mount alone, although the struggles of a smallman to climb to the top of a big horse sometimes are mightilyentertaining; but women have to trust to any capable or incapable manwho can assist them into their saddles. 

Fashion is ephemeral. Taste and public opinion having no corporalidentity, are nothing but the passing fancy of a given generation. 

Dress to a woman always seems an important matter, and to be welldressed it is necessary to be suitably clothed. Of course breeches, highboots or leggings are essential in riding; but a neatly arranged dividedskirt, reaching well below the knee, can be worn over these articles, and the effect produced is anything but inelegant. Of one thing we maybe certain, namely, that whenever English women summon up enough courageto ride their horses man fashion again, every London tailor willimmediately set himself to design becoming and useful divided skirts forthe purpose. 

I strongly advocate the abolition of the side saddle for the country, hunting, or rough journeys, for three reasons--1st, safety; 2nd, comfort; 3rd, health. 

I. Of course nothing is easier under ordinary circumstances than to"stick on" a side saddle, because the pommels almost hold one there:herein lies much danger. In the case of a horse falling, for instance, awoman (although doubtless helped by the tight skirts of the day) cannotextricate herself. She is caught in the pommels or entangled by thestirrups, both of which calamities mean dragging, and often result in ahorrible death. 

II. Miss Bird, in her famous book of travels, tells us how terribly herback suffered from hard riding on a side-saddle, and how easily sheaccomplished the same distances when, disregarding conventionalities, she adopted a man's seat. 

The wife of a well-known Consul-General, who, in company with herhusband, rode in similar fashion from Shanghai to St. Petersburghthrough Siberia, always declared such a feat would have been impossiblefor her to achieve on a side-saddle. Further, the native women of almostall countries ride astride to this day, as they did in England in thefourteenth century. 

My own experience as to comfort will be found in the following pages, and I can only add that greater knowledge has strengthened my opinion. 

III. Cross riding has been considered injurious to health by a fewmembers of the medical profession, but the majority hold a differentopinion. 

When discussing the subject with Sir John Williams--one of the greatestauthorities on the diseases of women--he said, "I do not see that anyharm could arise from women riding like men. Far from it. I cannotindeed conceive why the side saddle was ever invented at all. " What morecould be urged in favour of cross riding. 

Do we not all know that many girls become crooked when learning to ride, and have to mount on the off side in order to counteract the mischief. Is this not proof in itself of how unnatural the position must be?

As women ride at the present moment, horses with sore backs areunfortunately no rarity. It is true these galls are caused by badriding; still, such things would be avoided with a man's saddle, whichis far lighter than a woman's, and easier to carry, because the rider'sweight is not on one side, but equally distributed--a great comfort tothe horse's loins and withers. 

We all know that a woman's horse is far sooner knocked up with a hardday than one ridden by a man, although the man is probably the heavierweight of the two, and this merely because he is properly balanced. 

Since this little book made its first appearance, many ladies havefollowed the advice therein contained, and visited "the most volcanicregion of the earth, " peeped at Iceland's snow-clad peaks and deeplyindented fjords, made acquaintance with its primitive people, and riddentheir shaggy ponies. Practically Iceland remains the same to-day as itwas a century ago. Time passes unheeded within its borders, and a visitto the country is like returning to the Middle Ages. Excepting in thecapital, to all intents and purposes, no change is to be noted; and eventhere the main square opposite the governor's house forms the chiefcod-fish drying-ground, while every summer the same odours ascend fromthe process as greeted travellers of yore. 

Thanks, however, to the courtesy of a couple of friends, I am able tomention a few innovations. Dr. Karl Grossman, who travelled through thenorth-west of the island, on geology intent, has kindly furnished mewith excellent photographs of ponies. 

Mr. T. J. Jeaffreson, who knows the island well, intends before joiningMr. Frederick Jackson's polar expedition, to explore and cross theinterior of Iceland from east to west during the winter of 1894-95, onor about the 68th parallel, traversing the practically unknown districtsof Storis-anch, Spengis-andr, and O-dadahraimm, and returning across theVatna Jokull or Great Ice Desert. His reasons for wishing to cross inthe winter are, first, that in summer ponies must be used for thejourney, and they could not carry sufficient food and fuel for theexpedition as well as fodder for themselves; second, the roughness ofthe ground and the weight of the burdens would necessitate very shortdistances being traversed each day. 

Mr. Jeaffreson will, as did Dr. Nansen when he crossed Greenland, useski and Canadian snow-shoes, and drag his own sledges, in preference tousing ponies or dogs. We may look for an interesting volume on thenatural history of Iceland from his pen. 

Some slight but desirable improvements have been effected in the CapitalReykjavik, the most important being the erection of quite a nice littlehotel "Iseland, " which is kept by Halburg, who speaks excellent English, and whose son, formerly a waiter in this country, is a good sportsmanand guide. Ponies are supplied at this hotel. 

The chief guide in Iceland is now Thorgrimmer Goodmanson. He speaksseveral languages fluently, and is by profession the English and Latinschoolmaster; during the summer months, nevertheless, he acts as guide. 

The museum has been much enlarged, and is now located in the House ofParliament. 

There is a new hospital, and very good public washing sheds have beenerected for the town at the hot springs about a mile distant. 

There are now several shops, perhaps a dozen, and among them anexcellent sporting outfitters, where English cartridges and salmon fliescan be procured. 

Most of the pony track from Meijkjavik to Akureyri has been marked bystone cairns which show black against the winter's snow; and as there isnow a post for nine months of the year (the boats running occasionallyin the winter), letters are carried on horseback across from thecapital to Akureyri every four weeks. 

The "Camöens" runs no longer, but the Danish boats stop at Leith once afortnight (excepting during January, February, and March, when theisland is ice-bound), and after calling at three places in the Faroësand at Westmann Islands (weather permitting) go straight to Reykjavik. 

The road from the capital to the Geysers is as rough as ever, but atThingvalla Parsonage two or three little cabin bed-rooms have been putup, beds being very preferable to the floor in the opinion of wearytravellers. 

Tents are still necessary at the Geysers, although a two-roomed shed isin process of erection for the accommodation of visitors. 

The Stroker Geyser, which stopped for some time, is now working again, and is kept covered with a little lattice wood lid. 

Mr. Jeaffreson told me that at Yellowstone Park, in America, visitorsare carefully watched to see that they do not make the geysers workartificially by means of soap. [Footnote: Hardly explicable in suchsmall quantities by chemistry or physics. ] Remembering this experiencethe last time he went to Iceland, he packed some 2lb. Bars of commonsoap among his luggage. 

"When I got to the Geysers, " he continued, "the dirty old Icelanderguarding them asked me for 5 kroner to make the Stroker play. When Irefused his request he became most abusive, but, seeing I wasinexorable, finally went away, declaring the geyser would never playunless I paid him, and I declaring as emphatically that it would, anddirectly too. 

"As soon as he was at a safe distance I looked up my bars of soap, anddropping a couple of them under the lid, awaited the result. Veryshortly a hiss and a groan were heard, and up went the boiling water, sending the wooden grating into the air. 

"Back rushed the dirty man, not knowing whether to abuse or worship meas a worker of miracles. He was profoundly impressed, and finallydeclared he had never seen Stroker play so well before, but----'Was itthe Devil who had worked the game?'

"I had not enough soap left to try the big geyser, so waited a couple ofdays to see it play. Fortunately it did so in the end. "

If the story of Stroker spread, which it is sure to do in such a verysuperstitious country, Mr. Jeaffreson will be regarded with a certainamount of awe when he starts on his ski (snow-shoes) expedition nextwinter. 

Although his proposed trip is somewhat dangerous, I hope he may returnas happily as Dr. Nansen did from Greenland, and extract as muchpleasure out of his skilöbning as we contrived to do by visiting Norwaywhen that glorious land was covered with snow and bound by ice. 

When I pen these last lines, on July 12, 1894, I have just returned fromseeing Frederick Jackson and his gallant followers steam away downThames in their quest of the North Pole. A party of friends and severalleading Arctic explorers assembled at Cannon-street Station this morningto see the English Polar Expedition off. Five minutes before the trainleft, Frederick Jackson, who having discarded the frock coat and top hatwhich had earned for him the reputation of "resembling a smart guardsmanwith handsome bronzed features, " appeared upon the scene with hisfavourite brother. To-day the leader of the expedition looked like anEnglish yachtsman in blue serge; but he did not personally provoke somuch comment as his luggage. All the heavy things were already on boardthe "Windward, " anchored off Greenhithe. When the hero of the hourarrived, a large Inverness cape on his arm, carrying a bundle of furrugs, his only article of luggage was a large tin bath!

"A bath, " we cried. 

"Yes, " he laughingly replied, "I've had a small bath-room built on theship, and when we get into our winter quarters on Bell Island I shalluse my 'baby's bath. ' I can rough it, and I have roughed it for years, but there is one thing I can't go without--a good tub. "

What a true Englishman!

Frederick Jackson was in the best of spirits, and never gave way for amoment, although those many, many good-byes exchanged with intimatefriends must have been a sore trial. In spite of his tremendousself-control, he is strangely tender-hearted and affectionate by nature. 

When we reached Greenhithe it was raining; but the boats from the"Worcester, " manned by smart lads, were waiting for us, and with hardpulling--for the tide was running fast--we were all soon clambering up arope ladder to the "Windward's" decks. There was not much room. Food atfull rations (6-1/2 lb. Per man per diem) for eight men for four yearsfills a good space, and five or six tons of cod liver oil biscuits forthe dogs, twelve tons of compressed hay for the ponies, sledges, tents, boats, clothing, &c. , was more than the hold could accommodate, and someof the things strewed the deck. 

There was considerable fun getting the shaggy black retrievers on board, for they could not walk up a rope ladder, and were almost too big tocarry. 

Just as we were all leaving to go on board the "Worcester" and watch thefinal start, it was discovered that one of the picked eight of the landparty had never turned up!

Had he lost heart, or made a mistake as to the time of departure?

Great was the consternation, and eagerly all eyes were turned to theshore; but still he came not. As it afterwards transpired, he had missedhis train; and, far from his courage having failed at the last moment, so eager was he to be off, he travelled on to Gravesend, where, thanksto the courtesy of an official of high rank, he was put on board agunboat, and raced down the Thames, just managing to get alongside theArctic ship before it was too late. 

From H. M. S. "Worcester" we watched the anchor weighed, and as the boysmanned the rigging of the two training ships, they sent up a tremendousroar of cheers. Flags were flying on every side, for several yachts hadcome to see the start. "God Save the Queen" sounded across the waterfrom the land, and the sun came out and shone brightly as the stoutwhaler "Windward" steamed away with her party of Polar explorers in thebest of spirits. 

A couple of months hence they will be settling down in their winterquarters in Franz Josef Land, there to wait through the Arctic darknessfor the return of the sun, when they will push on towards the NorthPole, leaving a chain of depôts behind them. 

Everyone must wish them "God speed. "

They may meet Dr. Nansen, and Mr. Jackson was immensely amused when Ihanded him a letter for my good friend--addressed

 DR. FRIDTJOF NANSEN, NORTH POLE. 

Kindly favoured by F. G. Jackson. 

How strange it will be if these two adventurous men really meet andshake hands beneath the Polar star! May good fortune attend them, andtheir enthusiasm be rewarded. 

 E. B. T. LONDON, _12th July, 1894_. 

_LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. _

 PAGE

PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR (_Frontispiece_) _Herbert Schmalz_

FIRST VIEW OF ICELAND _Author_ 28

AKUREYRI _Dr. Grossman (photograph)_ 32

NATIVE WOMAN _Herbert Schmalz_ 34

THE FERRY _Dr. Grossman_ 37

PONIES FORDING RIVER " 63

OUR MODE OF RIDING _G. D. Giles_ 66

ICELANDIC FARM _Author_ 74

DRANGEY FROM REYKIR " 79

HRUTA FJORD AND FARM " 86

SNAEFELL JÖKULL " 90

REYKJAVIK _F. P. Fellows_ 91

THINGVALLA PARSONAGE _Author_ 114

PONIES CROSSING LAKE _Dr. Grossman_ 117

STROKER IN ERUPTION _Author_ 122

NATIVE IMPLEMENTS " 132

DIAGRAM OF GEYSERS _George Harley, F. R. S. _ 164

MAP OF ICELAND. 

_CONTENTS. _

CHAPTER I. PAGE

 Our Start--Description of Party--Messrs R. & D. Slimon, of Leith--Kit and Provisions--Slimon's Ticket Office--Non-Arrival of One of the Party--Final Preparations, 1

CHAPTER II. 

 Under Weigh--Price of Tickets--Crew and General Accommodation--Rough Weather--Shelter in Sinclair Bay--Letters taken off by Fishing Smack--Fellow Passengers--Sight First Whale--John o' Groat's House, 12

CHAPTER III. 

 Land Sighted--Man Overboard--His Recovery described--Iceland Sighted--Temperature and Position of the Island--Anchored off Akureyri--Icelandic Boat--Male and Female Costumes, 24

CHAPTER IV. 

 Akureyri--Pack Ponies--No Wheeled Conveyances--Woman's Saddle--House Interior--Staple Food--Absence of Domestic Animals and Timber--An Akureyri Dinner--Constitution of the Reykjavik Bank--Icelandic and English Money Table--Gléra Waterfall--Frost Mounds--Shark Oil Manufactory--Native Artist and Poet--Establishment of an Icelandic College, 37

CHAPTER V. 

 Historical Notes--Early History of Iceland--Population--Commonwealth Established--Conquest of the Isle of Man--Tynwald Hill--Chronological Dates--A Curious Custom--Landing of First Christian Missionary--Roman Catholicism embraced--Annexation to Norway--Area of the Island--Its Lakes and Rivers, 52

CHAPTER VI. 

 Sauderkrok--An Auction--Imports and Exports--Experience in Riding a Man's Saddle--Costume--Sketching--Curiosity of the Natives--Ride to Reykir--Hot Springs--A Young Student--Literature and Language--The Sagas, 63

CHAPTER VII. 

 Reykir--A Farm House--Skyr--Hot Springs utilised for Washing purposes--A Legend--The Eider Duck--Hay--Icelandic Flora--Bordeyri--Curious Form of Hospitality--Emigrants--12th August--Within the Arctic Circle, 75

CHAPTER VIII. 

 Reykjavik--Preparations for Visiting the Geysers--Principal Buildings--Founding of the Town by 'Tugolfi'--A Primitive Newspaper--Start for the Geysers--Professor Geikie on Icelandic Volcanoes--Eruptions--Skaptar-Jökull--Lunch in the Valley of the Seljadalr--Thingvalla Lake--The Almannagya, 92

CHAPTER IX. 

 Thingvalla--Site of the First Icelandic Parliament--The Althing--Conversion to Christianity--Abolition of the Althing--New Constitution of 1874--Thingvalla Parsonage--Antique Grinding Machine--A Tintron--Dust Storm--Hot Springs--Arrival at the Geysers, 107

CHAPTER X. 

 The Geysers--Tents blown down--The Great Geyser--Eruption of the 'Stroker'--Professor Geikie and Dr Kneeland on Geysers--Dinner--A Night in a Tent--Hot Springs of the District--Hecla in the Distance--Farewell to the Geysers, 121

CHAPTER XI. 

 Farm House--An Icelandic Dairy--Farm Kitchen--A Family Bedroom--Bruara Bridge--Back to Reykjavik--Population--The Great Awk--Leave Iceland--Northern Lights--Land at Granton--Table of Expenditure, 133

CHAPTER XII. 

 Volcanoes--The Askja Volcano--Large Fissure in Midge Lake Desert--Krafla--Skaptar-Jökull--Great Eruption of 1783--Hecla--Thermal Springs--The Usahver, 147

APPENDIX. 

 'Geysers'--Dr George Harley, F. R. S. , 157

[Illustration: Map of ICELAND]

A GIRL'S RIDE IN ICELAND. 

CHAPTER I. 

OUR START. 

As the London season, with its thousand and one engagements, that onetries to cram into the shortest possible time, draws to a close, thequestion uppermost in every one's mind is, 'Where shall we go thisautumn?' And a list of places well trodden by tourists pass through thebrain in rapid succession, each in turn rejected as too far, too near, too well known, or not embracing a sufficient change of scene. 

Switzerland? Every one goes to Switzerland: that is no rest, for onemeets half London there. Germany? The same answer occurs, and so on _adinfinitum_. 

'Suppose we make up a party and visit Iceland?' was suggested by me toone of my friends on a hot July day as we sat chatting togetherdiscussing this weighty question, fanning ourselves meanwhile under atemperature of ninety degrees; the position of Iceland, with itssnow-capped hills and cool temperature seeming positively refreshing anddesirable. Mad as the idea seemed when first proposed in mere banter, itended, as these pages will prove, by our turning the suggestion into areality, and overcoming the difficulties of a trip which will everremain engraven on my memory as one of the most agreeable experiences ofmy life. 

When I ventilated the idea outside my private 'den, ' wherein it firstarose, it was treated as far too wild a scheme for seriousconsideration--for 'Iceland, ' to Londoners, seems much the same in pointof compass as the moon! And there really is some similarity in thevolcanic surface of both. Here, however, the similarity ends, for whilethe luminary is indeed inaccessible, the island can easily be reachedwithout any very insurmountable difficulty. 

The somewhat natural opposition which our plan at first met with, onlystimulated our desire the more to carry it into effect. The first stepwas to gain the permission of our parents, which, after some reluctance, was granted, and the necessary ways and means finally voted; our nextwas to collect together a suitable party from our numerous friends, andtake all necessary measures to secure the success of the undertaking. 

As soon as our purpose became known and discussed among our immediatecircle of friends, many volunteers appeared anxious to share thetriumphs of so novel an enterprise. 

Thus our number at first promised to be somewhat larger than we hadanticipated. Happily, however, for its success, as it afterwards proved, these aspirants for 'fame, ' on learning the length of the passage, thepossible discomforts, and other obstacles, dropped off one by one, tillonly my brother and myself, with three other friends, remained firm toour purpose. 

It may be well here to introduce our party individually to my readers. 

First, my brother, whom, for convenience sake in these pages, I willcall by his Christian name, 'Vaughan, ' and whom I looked upon as thehead of the expedition, as, without his protection, I should never havebeen allowed to undertake the trip. 

He was a medical student in Edinburgh (since fully qualified), and wellsuited to the enterprise, being of a scientific turn of mind, as well aspractical and energetic, --a first-rate rider, an oarsman, and a goodsailor, whilst he had spent his vacations for some years in travelling. 

My friend Miss T. , my sole lady companion, a handsome girl of athoroughly good-natured and enterprising disposition, was, on thecontrary, no horsewoman, but the exigencies of a trip in Iceland soonmade her one. She was an excellent German scholar, and a greatassistance to our party in this respect, as the natives could oftenunderstand German, from the resemblance of that language to Danish. 

As it proved afterwards, it was really fortunate that we had not morethan two ladies in our party, for a larger number could hardly have metwith the necessary accommodation. Ladies are such rare visitors inIceland, that little or no preparation is made for their comfort. Thecaptain of our vessel told us that during several voyages last year hehad not a single female passenger on board. 

H. K. Gordon, an Anglo-Indian, on leave from Calcutta for his health, was likewise a valuable addition to our number. He was accustomed totent life and camping out, and helped us much in similar experiences. 

A. L. T. , who completed our party, was a keen sportsman, but thenovelties of the trip overbalanced his love for Scotland and theattractions of the 12th of August--no small sacrifice, especially as ourtravelling proved too rapid to enable him to make much use of his gun, although we often saw game in our various rides. 

Of myself, I have only to say that, being worn out with the gaieties ofa London season, I looked forward to a trip to 'Ultima Thule' withpleasurable anticipations, which were ultimately fully realised. 

Five is not a bad number to form a travelling company, and a very happyfive we were, although entirely thrown on our own resources fortwenty-five days. Of course we were often placed in the queerestpositions, over which we laughed heartily; for on starting we agreedthat we would each and all make the best of whatever obstacles we mightencounter, and it is certainly no use going to Iceland, or any otherout-of-the-way place, if one cannot cheerfully endure the absence ofaccustomed luxuries. Travellers not prepared to do this had betterremain at home. 

The decision once arrived at that Iceland was to be our Autumndestination, we endeavoured to collect from our travelling friends anyinformation on the subject, either as regarded route, outfit, or mode oftravelling, and whether the scenery and novelty of the trip were likelyto repay us for the trouble and roughing we should have to undergo; butunfortunately all our investigations were futile, as we found no one whohad any personal knowledge of the Island. I, however, remembered Dr JohnRae, the famous discoverer of the Franklin remains, was an old friend ofmy father's, and therefore wrote to ask him if he could help us in ourdifficulties, but his answer was not of a cheering nature, as he had notbeen in the Island for twenty-five years, and he had then only crossedfrom east to west--from Bevufjord to Kekiaviati, which did not form partof our route. He further stated he thought it was too arduous anundertaking for ladies, and dissuaded us from making the attempt. Failing to obtain any assistance from such a high authority, weconcluded that it would be useless to make any further inquiries amongour personal friends; we were therefore compelled to rely upon our ownresources, and extract what information we could from guide books. Ourinquiry at a London ticket office whether the officials could give usany particulars as to our route, was equally unsuccessful, theastonished clerk remarking, --'I was once asked for a ticket to the NorthPole, but I have never been asked for one to Iceland. '

But although we never procured any personal experiences, we found therewas no lack of interesting historical and geological literaturerespecting the Island. 

Our first step was to place ourselves in communication with Messrs R. D. Slimon, of Leith, the managers of the Icelandic Steamship Company, fromwhom we learnt that the next steamer would start from Leith on the 31stJuly (such, at least, was the advertised time and place), but it reallyleft Granton, some three miles further up the Forth, an hour and a halflater than was originally fixed. 

Before proceeding any further, it may be well to mention the importantsubjects of outfit and provisions. As we were not going upon afashionable tour, it was not necessary to provide ourselves withanything but what was really needed. Intending travellers must recollectthat, as all inland journeys are performed on ponies, and the luggagecan only be slung across the animals' backs, large boxes or trunks areout of the question, and it is necessary to compress one's outfit intothe smallest possible dimensions. The following list will be foundquite sufficient for the journey. 

A thick serge dress, short and plain for rough wear, with a cloth one inchange; a tight-fitting thick jacket, good mackintosh, and very warm furcloak; one pair of high mackintosh riding boots (like fisherman'swaders), necessary for crossing rivers and streams; a yachting cap orsmall tight-fitting hat, with a projecting peak to protect the eyes fromthe glare--blue glasses, which are a great comfort; thick gauntletgloves; a habit skirt is not necessary. 

My brother has given me a list of things he found most useful. Two roughhomespun or serge suits: riding breeches, which are absolutelyindispensable; riding boots laced up the centre, and large, as they arecontinually getting wet; flannel shirts; thick worsted stockings; a warmulster, and mackintosh. 

Instead of trusting to the pack boxes provided by the natives, a softwaterproof 'hold-all, ' or mule boxes, would be an additional comfort. 

On one of our long rides, two pack ponies came into collision, they bothfell, the path being very narrow, and rolled over one another. To ourhorror, one pack box was broken to pieces, while another lost itsbottom, and there in all the dust lay tooth brushes, sponge bags, etc. , not to mention other necessaries of the toilet. 

Rugs, mackintosh sheets, and pillows are required for camping out, alsotowels. Although the Icelanders provide tents, it is advisable to takeyour own if feasible. Provisions are absolutely requisite--tinned meatsand soup, and a cooked ham or tongues; tea, sugar, cocoa, biscuits (of ahard make), and as no white bread is to be procured, it is as well toinduce the ship's steward to provide some loaves before starting on anexpedition. Butter can be obtained at Reikjavik. Japanned plates andmugs, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten. We providedourselves with wine and spirits, which we found of great use to face thecold. 

Our purchases being made and our party complete, we arranged to startfrom Euston on Thursday, 29th July, and go north by the night train. Mybrother, however, was to meet us at Edinburgh, as he had been away inhis small yacht, coasting near Dunbar. We had, however, sent him allparticulars as to our plans. Under the best circumstances, and despitesleeping saloons, and other luxuries, it is a long and tedious journeyto Scotland, and we were not sorry to find it at an end, as, with a puffand a shriek, our train entered the Waverley Station, Edinburgh. 

Notwithstanding our fatigue, we took a somewhat regretful look at thatsteam marvel of civilisation, which had brought us thus far on ourjourney, and to which we now bade farewell for a month, at least, for amuch ruder and more primitive mode of travelling. 

Some friends had kindly offered to put us up during our short stay, sowe made our way to their house, and were soon enjoying the luxuries of awash and a good breakfast. My brother had arranged to meet us there, butas he did not put in an appearance, we determined to go in search of himat his rooms. 

Imagine our dismay on arriving there to be told by his landlady that hehad been absent for a week, yachting, and had not yet returned, whilstall our letters detailing our final plans, and date of arrival inEdinburgh, were lying unopened on the table. 

We at once determined to take energetic measures to discover any tidingsof his whereabouts. As it was necessary to go to Leith to engage cabinsand take tickets, we decided to push on to Granton, where I knew he kepthis boat, and inquire at the Royal Forth Yacht Club if they knewanything about _The Lily_ and her owner. 

A tram car took Miss T. And myself to Leith, and after sundry inquiries, we found ourselves in front of an ordinary tin-shop, over which the name'Slimon' was painted in large letters of gold--an unlikely-lookingplace, we thought, to take tickets for such an important voyage. 

In answer to our inquiries, 'Yes, mum, the office is next door, ' wasvouchsafed to us in the broadest Scotch dialect, by a clerk, whoescorted us there, carrying with him a huge bunch of keys, looking morelike a gaoler conducting prisoners, than two ladies innocentlyrequiring tickets. We were ushered into a dingy little office, where wefound the only occupant was a cat! Our conductor was extremely ignorant, and unable to supply us with any information, his answer to everyquestion being, 'I dinna ken, ' or 'I canna say. '

I explained to him what anxiety I was in about my missing brother, andthat our party would have to be broken up unless he appeared before themorrow; consequently, it would be useless for us to purchase ticketsuntil we heard from him. He blurted out in a broad and almostunintelligible dialect, which I am unable to reproduce, that we need notpay until we were on board the steamer, adding, that probably the deadcalm since the previous night had delayed _The Lily_. I knew Vaughan hadintended going out beyond Dunbar, and feared that he might be out in agale; but if only becalmed, I felt certain he would somehow manage toget ashore in the dinghy, and was confident he had ascertained forhimself, independently of our unopened letters, the date of thesteamer's starting, and was too old a traveller to fail his party, andso spoil the expedition _in toto_. 

Rattling over the stones to Granton in a terribly rickety 'machine, ' asour northern friends call their cabs, the first old salt we encounteredon the pier replied to our anxious inquiry, 'Why, that's _The Lily_sailing round the harbour's mouth, ' as at that moment she slowly roundedthe pier. 

When Vaughan came ashore, he told us, after running from Dunbar in agale, he had been becalmed for two days, and it had taken the whole ofthat day to cross 'the Forth. ' He had not hurried particularly, however, thinking we were not travelling North till the next day, no lettershaving been forwarded to him. Thus ended happily what might have been agreat catastrophe, and compelled us to abandon the expedition. 

That night we returned with him to Edinburgh, and on rising next morningfrom probably the last comfortable bed we should enjoy for some time, wewere cheered by a bright sun and cloudless sky--a pleasant forecast forthe voyage in prospect. We made several purchases in Princes Street, inclusive of an extra deck chair, warm rugs, etc. , and received aninflux of '_bon voyage_' telegrams from our London friends--the lasthome news we should get for a month. Yes, four weeks is a long timenever to hear of one's nearest and dearest, or they to hear of you. Whatmight not happen in the interval? So much, indeed, that it passescontemplation, and we had best leave it, and content ourselves with thefact that we had left every one well, and everything all right when westarted. 

At the pier we found the tender waiting to take us to the _Camoens_, thesteamer which was to convey us to the goal of our ambition, namely, Iceland. 

How many and varied were our experiences before we steamed alongsidethat pier again!

CHAPTER II. 

UNDER WEIGH. 

The _Camoens_, named after the Portuguese poet of that name, is afair-sized steamer of 1200 tons, which runs during the summer and autumnmonths at regular intervals of about once in four weeks, between Grantonand Reikjavik, the capital of Iceland, calling _en route_ at otherports. Subjoined is a map of the Island, with a red boundary linemarking the course of the steamer, and her usual halting places. 

Her average run, inclusive of stoppage at the various trading ports, issix or seven days at most; but in steaming direct from Granton to theIcelandic capital, the voyage does not occupy more than three and a halfdays, if the weather is favourable. 

On reaching the _Camoens_, we found the rest of our party alreadyarrived, and we joined forces at once. All was not ready, however, onboard, for the stowage of the cargo was still in full swing, and sacksof flour and trusses of hay were being alternately hurled round on thecrane and lowered on deck, sailors and 'odd hands' rushing hither andthither in the wildest confusion. 

Just before our arrival a serious accident had occurred. The steward wasreturning from market, when the crane struck him and knocked him down, injuring the poor man sadly, breaking both his arms, and causing severecontusions of the head. He was carried ashore to the hospital, and butslight hopes were entertained of his recovery. 

This fatality caused the greatest inconvenience, for independent of hisbeing a valuable steward, and the sorrow to his messmates at hisaccident, it is not generally easy, just as a steamer is leaving port, to find a substitute. Happily, in this case, a former steward beingdisengaged, the captain at once secured his services; but as he onlycame on board at the last moment, and neither knew where the supplieswere stored, nor of what they consisted, the ship's company was therebyput to much inconvenience during the voyage. 

Messrs Slimons' agent was on board the _Camoens_ with his ticket book, and our tickets were at once procured; not expensive by any means, beingonly £8 each person to Iceland and back, including the trip round theIsland; our food being charged at the rate of 6s. 6d. Per day extra. 

The best berth cabin had been reserved for Miss T. And myself, the oneopposite for the three gentlemen, with an intermediate passage, whichlatter proved a great comfort, as it contained hooks for coats andcloaks, and room for two portmanteaus. 

The cabins were unusually small, and required very close arrangement ofour effects, and the extra hooks and cabin bags for the wall we hadbrought with us were most useful. 

Our crew numbered thirty-two in all, and rough-looking specimens ofhumanity they indeed appeared. We had two stewardesses, who also waitedat table, and made themselves generally useful. These were slatternly inappearance, but were very attentive and kind-hearted. There were sevenfiremen, two working at the same time for four hours at a stretch, thuseach couple did duty twice in the twenty-four hours; which means eighthours in the engine-room out of the twenty-four. 

There were forty berths on board the _Camoens_, only nineteen of whichwere occupied during the outward voyage. The ship carried no surgeon, consequently my brother was frequently applied to in cases of burns, sprains, etc. 

The captain had a large Board of Trade medicine chest, of which he keptthe key, and from which he usually administered the contents whenrequired, to the best of his medical knowledge. I must here refer withready praise to the kindness of Captain Robertson, a most worthy man, and of general information. He often came and sat with us in the eveningin the saloon, or smoked with the gentlemen, and many and varied werethe yarns he spun. 

We got under weigh about 4. 30 on Saturday afternoon, July 31st, beingtugged out of the harbour at Granton. The Firth of Forth was then ascalm as a lake, scarce a ripple to be seen on its surface. A previousthunderstorm had freshened the air, the rain which had fallen hadceased, and those lovely mists and tints usually to be seen after astorm, had taken the place of the dark clouds now rolling away in thedistance. Inchkeith was spanned by a lovely rainbow, and peace, quiet, and beauty reigned around. The water, indeed, was more like a largelake, such as the 'Chiem See' in Bavaria--dotted with its islands--thanan inlet of the sea. 

On we steamed, passing Leith, Portobello, North Berwick, with the BassRock and the coast of Fife, and, as evening drew on, May Island and BellRock. It was indeed a lovely night. The sky, lit up with the deep, warmglow of the departing sun, cast a rosy hue over the whole expanse ofwater. A night, indeed, so perfect, we all agreed it was worth coming tosea to witness and enjoy. 

The human mind is, however, versatile, and before morning we had causeto change our ideas, and several of us already wished ourselves again athome!

On entering the Moray Firth the evening calm of the untroubled sea wasexchanged for rough billows, and hour by hour we became more and moremiserable, each alike in turn paying our tribute to Neptune, and trulyrealising the difference between a voyage in prospect and one in sternreality. 

My brother, Mr Gordon, the captain, and two other passengers were thesole occupants of the saloon at breakfast. At luncheon, the lattercouple were also absent, and more people than ourselves bewailed theirmisery, and wished themselves back ashore. 

The rolling of the steamer was tremendous. It pitched and tossed to suchan extent that our bags and other things in our cabin were tumbled aboutin every direction. Despite the discomfort, we struggled on deck abouttwelve o'clock, hoping the air would revive us, and in half an hour feltquite other persons. 

The worst of a rough sea is, that when one is feeling sick, and air ismost needed, one is obliged to shut the portholes, and only imbibe thatwhich comes from the saloon--a mixture of fumes by no meansinvigorating. 

I had always prided myself on being a good sailor when on yachtingexcursions and short sea voyages, but that 'Moray Firth' undeceived mein this respect. My misery, however, soon wore off, and save on thisoccasion, and one day on our return voyage, even in the rough days weencountered in the Northern Atlantic, my peace of mind was not furtherdisturbed. 

This first day was indeed a miserable initiation into the hithertounknown horrors of the sea, and no greater contrast could be possiblethan the calm of the night before and that wretched Sunday. It rainedand blew great guns all day long, and by 6 P. M. The weather culminatedin a severe gale, with the glass steadily falling, followed by a heavythunderstorm, with vivid forked lightning. So furious indeed was thestorm, that after passing Duncansby Head, and John o' Groat's House, ourcaptain turned back and ran his vessel into Sinclair Bay, riding atanchor there for the night, not being willing, in the face of suchweather, to attempt the 'Pentland Firth. '

The bay was calm, and the gentle movement of the waves was like therocking of an arm-chair after the shaking and rolling we hadexperienced. We all enjoyed our dinner in peace, whilst the warmth ofthe cabin was a pleasant change from the searching cold on deck, which, despite furs and rugs, had pierced us through and through. Before weretired for the night, two other vessels had likewise put into the bayfor safety from the elements, and here we were compelled to remain forforty-two hours while the storm still raged outside. Captain Robertsonwas a sensible man; when we asked him why he had put into Sinclair Bay, he said he considered it wiser to 'lay-to' for a few hours, and make upthe time afterwards, rather than push on through such a gale, burningcoal, and only making a knot or two an hour, perhaps not even that, straining the ship with her screw continually out of the water, makingevery one miserable, and gaining nothing. To this we all agreed, so inquiet waters we passed a comfortable night, and consequently all thepassengers put in an appearance next morning at breakfast. 

As dirty weather was still reported ahead, we also spent Monday (a Bankholiday) in the bay. Alongside of us lay a large steamer, which hadtried the Pentland Firth in the morning, but after five unsuccessfulhours had been obliged to put back. This steamer had shifted her cargo, and lay over on her side, in a way that looked to me alarming; we lefther in the bay when we weighed anchor on Tuesday at mid-day. 

On the previous night some fishing boats put out from Keiss for herringfishing, and one came so near to us that we were tempted to prepare someletters and telegrams, a sailor on board our vessel saying he would tryand drop them into the boat, in a basket. We tied them, therefore, up ina bag, with the necessary money for delivery, and watched their fatewith anxiety. 'Letters, ' shouted our sailor, but the fishermen shooktheir heads, evidently thinking it too rough to approach nearer to thesteamer. Again the word 'Letters' was repeated, when another fishingsmack responded 'Ay, ay, ' and tacked, and as she shot past us, on ourlee side, the basket was dropped over, accompanied by a bottle of whiskyand ten shillings (the two latter being a _douceur_ for the fishermenthemselves) wrapped up for safety in an old rag, and tied to the bottomof the basket. The smack to which we thus confided our post was goingout for the night, but the men said they would put into Keiss nextmorning, and promised to send the letters ashore, which we afterwardsfound they did, whilst the bottle of whisky proved so acceptable a gift, that finding us still in Sinclair Bay on Tuesday morning, the fishermenbrought some fresh herrings for breakfast, which they threw on board asthey passed, and which proved an acceptable addition to our breakfasttable. 

The crew of the smack were a fine-looking set of men, well made, withhandsome, frank faces--six men and a boy; but all they got for theirnight's danger and toil was some three dozen herrings. Such is theuncertainty of the deep. 

Our ship's passengers numbered fourteen, exclusive of ourselves, andwhile we remained in Sinclair Bay, we had a good chance of criticisingthem. All good fellows, no doubt, but mostly of the trading class, andnot very attractive, physically or mentally. There were two women in thenumber, the wife and daughter of a clothier resident in Iceland; butamong the entire party we did not find any one likely to add to thesociability of the voyage, so, English-like, we kept to ourselves asmuch as possible. 

How inconsistently some people dress on board ship! Our two womenfellow-passengers did not often appear on deck, but when they didventure, despite the wind and rain, the elder wore an enormous hat, witha long, brown feather, which daily grew straighter, until all its curlhad disappeared; and a light-brown silk dress, on which every drop ofrain or spray made its mark. She was a clothier's wife, and accustomedto sea-travelling; one would have imagined experience would have taughther the advisability of a less gorgeous style of apparel. 

The girl wore a huge white sailor hat, covered with a profusion of redpoppies, and her whole time seemed to be occupied in holding it on herhead with both hands to prevent its blowing away. But it would rain, andthe red from the poppies silently trickled all over the hat, andgradually formed rivulets on her face. 

Then there was a very corpulent old man, with a large, square-patternedulster, and a deer-stalker hat, tied on with a red silk handkerchiefunder his chin in a large bow, matching his complexion. His companionwas thin and sallow, and wore a very desponding air, despite a prolificred beard, which, when we landed, caused much excitement among theIcelanders. I think their admiration made him feel shy, for after thedemonstration made in its favour at the first landing port, he seldomwent ashore, and even during the four days the _Camoens_ lay offReykjavik, he rarely left the ship. 

Life on board ship is at the best monotonous, and we had to be contentedwith breathing the ozone, rejoicing in its health-giving properties, speculating as to the result of the voyage, and the novel scenes wehoped so soon to witness. 

If ever cheap novels have their use, it is certainly on board ship. Soaked with salt water or rain, it matters not; they most assuredly helpto wile away many an hour, and even the usually non-novel reader is notashamed to seize the tell-tale yellow-covered volume, and lose himselfin its romance _pro tem_. 

The second day we amused ourselves in making sketches of Noss Head, which one minute was enveloped in thick mist and rain, and the nextstood out, clear and distinct, against a dull, grey sky. 

When in the midst of our sketching, lo! quite an excitement prevailedamong our ship's company, viz. , the sight of a twenty-five feetbottle-nosed whale, which every one rushed to see, and which for sometime played around the ship, accompanied by a couple of porpoise. Theanimal caused as much excitement as if it had been the mythical seaserpent itself. We saw them in dozens afterwards, but never with thesame enthusiasm. Of course, the first whale had to be immortalised, andtwo of our party sketched and painted it; not without difficulty, however, for the rolling of the ship sent the water-colours or theturpentine sliding away at some critical moment of our work, and, onlater occasions, chair, artist, picture, and colours were upset togetherin a disconsolate heap on the other side of the ship, much to everyone's amusement. 

Sketching at sea, in fact, is no easy matter, chiefly from the necessityof rapidity in the work; while the smuts from the funnel are mostexasperating, settling on the paper just where clear lights are mostdesirable, and--well, paint in oils on a rough day at sea, with a strongwind blowing the smoke towards you, and judge for yourself!

We left, as I said, our haven of refuge--Sinclair Bay--on Tuesday atnoon, on a clear, bright day, but with a turbulent sea. However, wepassed the Pentland Firth without having to run into the Orkneys forshelter, passing quite close to Pomona, round Duncansby Head and John o'Groat's House, a hideous modern hotel in the midst of a desolate bay. 

Some people say that the story of John o' Groat's is merely mythical, and others declare he was a Scotchman, who, for ferrying folks acrossthe Pentland Firth for fourpence, or a 'groat, ' received his nickname. Again it is said that he was a Dutchman, with eight stalwart sons, who, having no idea of the law of primogeniture, alike wished to sit at thehead of the table, whereupon John had an octagon table made, which, having neither top nor bottom, saved any wrangling for preeminence inhis family. 

Dunnet Head, which we next passed, is the most northerly point ofScotland. 'Stroma, ' viz. , the Orkneys, lay on our right, standing out inrelief against a lovely sky--just such a picture as John Brett loves topaint. 

We were all much struck by the variety of birds in the Pentlands--wildgeese, ducks, northern divers, and puffins, with, of course, the neverabsent gull. What a melancholy noise the gull makes, crying sometimesexactly like a child. And yet it is a pleasing companion on a desolateexpanse of water, and most amusing to watch as it dives for biscuit oranything eatable thrown to it from the ship's side. Some of thegentlemen tried to capture them with a piece of fat bacon tied to astring; but although Mr Gull would swallow the bacon, he sternly refusedto be landed. 

CHAPTER III. 

LAND SIGHTED. 

On leaving the choppy 'Pentland Firth, ' we now entered on still rougherwaters, encountering an Atlantic swell, caused by the previous storm. How the ship rolled! Walking on deck became impossible, while sitting inour deck chairs was nearly as bad, for they threatened to slide fromunder us. In despair we sought our berths, but to get into them in sucha sea was a matter of difficulty, which practice in smooth waters hadnot taught us. Tuesday evening we bade adieu to the coast of Scotland, but what a boisterous night followed! Oh, dear! that eternal screw madesleeping at first impossible; we had not noticed its motion while ondeck, but as soon as we laid our heads on our pillows, its monotonousnoise seemed to grind our very brains. At last fatigue gained thevictory, and I slept for some hours. 

A sudden stoppage of the vessel awoke me at last with a start; it wasstill dark, but I heard loud talking and running about on deck overhead. Alarmed I sat up in my berth, and wondered what was the matter. All atonce the screw again revolved and then again stopped, and was once morein motion. We seemed to be going backward. I knew we were at least onehundred miles from Scotland, and there was no land nearer. 

Wishing to learn what was going on, for in my half-awakened state, visions of icebergs and collisions rushed through my excited mind, Ihastily summoned the stewardess, and asked what was the matter to causesuch a commotion overhead. I learnt from her that an unusual and almostfatal event had just occurred. The man at the wheel, suddenly seizedwith a suicidal mania, had rushed from his post, possessed himself oftwo mops, which were lying on the deck, and putting one under each arm, with a wild and fiendish shriek had jumped overboard. The captainimmediately stopped the ship and ordered a boat to be lowered; but owingto the high sea running, some time elapsed before this could beaccomplished, and in the meantime the man had drifted some way from thevessel, and in the grey morning light his form was barely discernible inthe trough of the waves. Notwithstanding the danger, the moment the boatwas lowered there were no lack of volunteers to man her; but sopersistent was the unfortunate man's resolve to perish, that he eludedall the efforts of his rescuers to capture him, and every time he wasapproached, swam away. The men at the oars had nearly given in, themselves soaked to the skin, when a cheery call from the captainurged them on afresh. 

It was only when exhaustion and numbness had rendered the poor maniacunconscious, that the sailors were able to pull him on board in analmost lifeless condition. 

At breakfast time the captain informed us that the man's life had onlybeen restored by constant rubbing; and that the poor creature seemed soviolent, he had been obliged to have him locked up, probably a case oftemporary insanity, which the captain attributed to the moon! For somedays the poor deluded creature was very violent, and made many effortsto escape from his confinement. On one occasion he succeeded in gettinghalf his body through a ventilating hole in his prison, from which hewas extricated with great difficulty. The reason he assigned for jumpinginto the sea was that he feared being 'burnt alive, ' in the boiler, apunishment in his aberration he fancied the captain had ordered for him. 

As may be supposed, the event caused much excitement on board, at thesame time practically diminishing our crew by two, as one man hadconstantly to be told off to look after the madman. His subsequentcareer was watched with great interest by those on board. His madnesscontinued during the whole of the voyage, although sometimes he enjoyedlucid intervals, during which his chief desire was to sing, and he waspermitted up on deck, when he amused himself by singing sailor dittiesand dancing hornpipes to his heart's content. 

At other times his madness assumed a more dangerous form, and he had tobe closely watched, to prevent him taking his own life. Every kindnesswas shown him by the captain and ship's officers and my brother attendedhim daily. When we reached Leith he was handed over to his relatives, and was subsequently put into an asylum, where I fear there was littlechance of recovery, as madness was hereditary in his family. 

As we steamed on, our voyage became somewhat monotonous, and we longedfor the time to pass when we should reach the first trading port inIceland, hoping there to imbibe new food for thought and comment. Ourtable was very fair; but a small steamer in a rough sea has manydisadvantages in tempting the appetite. I must say the captain did allhe could to make us comfortable, but he was not accustomed to carry ladypassengers, and as the 'novelty of discomfort' began to wear off, itrendered us somewhat sensible to its unaccustomed yoke. There was asmall smoking-room on deck, large enough to hold about eight persons, but which was always filled with smokers. The only other sitting-roomwas the saloon, the sofas of which were generally occupied by malepassengers fast asleep, so we ladies had to choose between our berthsand the deck, and we much preferred the latter in all weather, and underall circumstances. 

Our fifth day at sea was one of utter misery. At dinner, despite thefiddles, the soup was landed in my lap, and a glass of champagne turnedover before I had time to get it to my lips. I struggled through themeal bravely, and then went up on deck, but found it far too rough towalk about, while sitting down was only accomplished by holding fast tosome friendly ropes tied near us with that view. About nine o'clock Isought my berth, but sleep was impossible, as most of my time was spentin trying to keep within the bounds of my bed, expecting that everysuccessive lurch would eject me; whilst the port-holes having to beclosed (that greatest of all discomforts in a storm) made the cabinclose and unbearable. 

The next morning, everybody had the same night's experience to relate, whilst the state of disorder our cabins were in, proved that we had notexaggerated our misery. 

After leaving the Faroes on our right, we never sighted land for twodays, nor did we even see a single ship; the one break in the monotonybeing the spouting of whales. 

Two more days of terrible rolling amid those wild Atlantic breakers, which, as they washed our decks, seemed to sway the ship to and fro. Happily the wind was with us during the greater part of our voyage, andthe captain crowded on all sail, making about 10 knots an hour. 

[Illustration: Our first view of Iceland. Etched by F. P. Fellows, from asketch by the Author, 1888. ]

On the Thursday following, we sighted Iceland, and our spirits rosein proportion as we felt our voyage was nearing its completion. The sea, too, became calmer, and as we neared the coast the view was truly grand. At 10. 30 P. M. The sun had not yet set, but was shedding its gloriousevening glow over mountains which rose almost perpendicularly from thesea, and whose snow-clad peaks caught the rosy hues and golden tints ofdeparting day. It was one of the most beautiful atmospheric effects Ihave ever witnessed, doubtless enhanced by the marvellous clearness ofthe atmosphere. I knew that Iceland was mountainous in its interior, butI had no idea that it had such a magnificent coast line, or suchtowering snow-capped hills. One thing we made special note of, namely, that while in the day time the thermometer rarely stood above 42°--10above freezing point--it was very considerably lower at night, whilstinstead of the damp cold we experienced during the day, at night the airwas dry and frosty; the wind blowing from the north-west, and straightover the ice of Greenland, accounted for its being so sharp and keen. 

It was well we had provided ourselves with furs and wraps of everypossible warmth, for now indeed we required them all. Happily we onlysaw field ice in the distance, for had we come into nearer proximitywith it, we should not have been able to pass round the north at all. Noice actually forms round the coast line, but the sea ice drifts fromGreenland, 100 miles distant, causing the north of the Island to beimpassable, except during two or three months in the year. 

The mean temperature of the south of Iceland is 39° F. , in the centraldistrict 36° F. , while in the north it is rarely above freezing point. During the winter of '80 and '81, when we were having what we thoughtgreat cold in England, the thermometer in Iceland was standing at 25°below zero, and polar bears were enjoying their gambols on its northernshores, having drifted thither on the ice from Greenland. 

Iceland lies between N. Lat. 63, 23, 30, and 66, 32; and W. Long. 13, 32, 14, and 24, 34, 14; is 280 miles in length, and 180 to 200 miles inbreadth. 

Steaming up the east coast of the Island we breakfasted the next morningin the Arctic Circle, and what a delight it was to be there, the nextbest thing to being at the North Pole itself, and far more comfortable!We were also now in calm water, so could give vent to our excitementwithout fear of consequences. We had indeed had a terrible time of itsince we left Scotland: even the captain acknowledged that the voyagehad been unusually rough. 

All that day we continued our course along the north-eastern coast ofIceland, in constant admiration of the magnificent wild scenery whichbroke upon our view. Snow capped-mountains rose almost abruptly from thesea, down which flowed little glacial rivulets, which emptiedthemselves into the briny deep below. Another clear lovely evening, inwhich the quaint rocky outlines of the hills were discernible, withvalleys, torrents, and glorious fjords, the whole embracing a panoramaof miles of grand serrated coast line, showing to the greatest advantagein the curious evening glow. 

So calm and beautiful was the scene, that all our party agreed it wasworth a few days' discomfort in order to revel in the beauty of thisbold Icelandic approach. The water was perfectly green, and as clear aspossible, revealing innumerable yellow jelly-fish disporting themselves. We did not, however, see any of the sharks which are so frequently metwith in these waters. 

Entering the 'Oe Fjord' on our way to Akureyri, a small town lying somethirty miles from its mouth, as the evening lights shed their richvaried hues on all around, it was difficult to believe we could reallybe, after only a week's absence from home, so far north as the ArcticCircle, the more so as the rich warm colouring of the landscaperesembled rather some southern clime. 

We anchored off Akureyri at about eleven P. M. , still in broad daylight, and I could read the smallest print at that hour without any difficulty, so short is the twilight of an Arctic summer. Real night there is none. This latter fact is most convenient for travellers, for being benightedin their explorations is an impossibility. If, however, the Icelandersenjoy this prolonged daylight during their brief summer, how painfulmust be the reverse during the long winter, when they have but a fewhours of daylight. 

We were told an amusing story of an enterprising merchant from Glasgow, who, wishing to impress the Icelanders with the advantage of theelectric light to cheer their long winter's darkness, went to Reykjavikin his large steam yacht, sending forth a proclamation inviting thenatives to come and behold this scientific wonder. It was August, and hehad not taken into consideration the fact that during that month thereis no night in the Island, consequently his display was totallyineffectual!

After breakfast, a boat came alongside our steamer to convey us to thetown. Off we went in a high state of pardonable excitement. All pastdiscomfort was forgotten; we were about to set our feet on that _terraincognita_ to most Europeans, viz. , 'Iceland, ' whose high mountainmasses, varying in altitude from 3000 to 6800 feet, are, for the greaterpart of the year, covered with snow. 

But before we land, let me describe the boat; large, of course, or itwould never be able to stand the rough waters of the fjords, which, wewere told, were often so turbulent as to render any communication withships at sea impossible. Both ends of the boat are made alike, resembling two bows; our boat had neither rudder nor stern, andrequired three men to handle each oar, one facing the other two, and allthree pulling simultaneously. Sometimes the men stood up, their combinedstrength being thus apparently more effective in pulling through therough sea which surrounded the Island. The oars were very thick at therowlock, tapering off to an almost straight blade, not more than fiveinches wide. The men pulled well, and soon landed us amid the curiousgaze of the inhabitants of the town, who had crowded down to the beachas soon as our steamer came in sight. 

[Illustration: AKUREYRI (SHOWING LARGEST TREES IN ICELAND). ]

The first thing that struck us on landing was the sad, dejected look ofthe men and women who surrounded us. There was neither life nor interestdepicted on their faces, nothing but stolid indifference. This apathy isno doubt caused by the hard lives these people live, the intense coldthey have to endure, and the absence of variety in their every-dayexistence. What a contrast their faces afforded to the bright colouringand smiling looks one meets with in the sunny South. 

The Icelanders enjoy but little sun, and we know ourselves, in itsabsence, how sombre existence becomes. Their complexions too, were verysallow, and their deportment struck us as sadly sober. A few of thewomen might possibly have been called pretty, notably two of theirnumber, who possessed clear pale skins, good features, blue eyes, andlovely fair hair, which they wore braided in two long plaits, turned up, forming two loops crossed on the crown of the head. These braids weresurmounted by a quaint little black silk knitted cap, fitting close tothe skull like an inverted saucer, and secured to the head by silverpins. 

Hanging from this cap is a thick black silk tassel, from some six to teninches long, which passes at the top through a silver tube, often ofvery pretty workmanship. I tried on one of these caps, and came to theconclusion that it was very becoming; thereon my vanity made me offer topurchase it, but as its owner asked twelve shillings, I declined to buyit, and afterwards procured one for half the sum in Reykjavik. 

The bodices of the women's costumes are pretty, bound round two inchesdeep with black velvet, joined at the neck and waist with silverbuckles; the bust is left open, showing a white linen shirt, sometimesornamented with the finest embroidery; the skirt is short and full, andmade of dark cloth. 

[Illustration: A NATIVE WOMAN. _Page 34. _]

The men were of low stature, and broadly built, and wore fur caps andvests, with huge mufflers round their throats. These latter, weobserved, were mostly of a saffron colour, which, combined with theirfur caps, tawny beards, and long locks, gave them a very quaintappearance. Men, women, and children alike wore skin shoes, made fromthe skin of the sheep or seal, cut out and sewn together to the shape ofthe foot, and pointed at the toe. These shoes are tied to their feet bya string made of gut, and lined merely with a piece of flannel orserge, a most extraordinary covering in a country so rocky as Iceland, where at every step sharp stones, or fragments of lava, are encountered. Mocassins are also sometimes worn. The Icelanders, however, do not seemto mind any obstacles, but run and leap on or over them in their 'skinskurs' as though impervious to feeling. Later on we saw a higher classof Icelanders wearing fishermen's boots, but such luxuries were unknownin the little town where we first landed. The men being short ofstature, in their curious kit much resembled Esquimaux. 

The double-thumbed gloves worn were likewise a curiosity to us. Thesegloves have no fingers, but are made like a baby's glove, with a thumbat each side; and when rowing or at other hard work if the man wears outthe palm of his glove, he simply reverses it and makes use of the otherthumb. These gloves are generally knitted of grey wool, the thumbs beingwhite, and resemble at a distance a rabbit's head with long ears. AnIcelander always wears gloves, whether rowing, riding, fishing, washing, or sewing. 

In ascertaining the number of days in a month we English people areaccustomed to repeat a rhyme: the Icelander has a different mode ofcalculation. He closes his fist, calls his first knuckle January, thedepression before the next knuckle February, when he arrives at the end, beginning again; thus the months that fall upon the knuckles, are thosecontaining thirty-one days, a somewhat ingenious mode of assisting thememory. 

In our short trip to the Island, except on our visits to the geysers, which occupied four days, we invariably slept and dined on board the_Camoens_, making use of the time the steamer remained in each port tolionise the little towns we touched at, and to make such excursions intothe interior as time permitted. In fact, except in the capital, there isnot a really good hotel to be met with, although primitive accommodationmay be found in the peasant dwellings and small hostelries. 

[Illustration: THE FERRY BOAT. ]

CHAPTER IV. 

AKUREYRI. 

Certainly the most noticeable feature, after a brief survey of theinhabitants of' the place--at least such of them as surrounded us onlanding--was the number of ponies massed together on the beach, --fine, sturdy, little animals, from eleven to thirteen hands high, stoutlymade, with good hind quarters, thick necks, well-shaped heads, andtremendously bushy manes. Their feet and fetlocks are particularly good, or they could not stand the journeys. There were black, white, brown, chesnut, or piebald, but we did not see a single roan amongst them; avery quaint group they made standing quietly there, laden with everyconceivable kind of saddle or pack. Many of the smaller ones were almosthidden by the size of the sacks, filled with goods, which were strappedon their backs. The pack ponies are never groomed, and badly fed, whilethe best riding ones are well stabled and looked after. 

The scene that followed was interesting, for it appeared all theseintelligent little animals were in attendance on their owners, men andwomen alike, who had come down to the ship in order to barter the goodsthey had brought from the interior of the Island for flour, coffee, etc. , on which they depend for their winter supplies. For hours thesepatient little ponies stood there, many of them with foals at theirside, which latter, we were told, often get so footsore in theirjourneys as to require strapping upon their mothers' backs. TheIcelanders are splendid riders, and are accustomed to the saddle frombabyhood, for the roads are very bad, and the distances too great forwalking, and there are no vehicles of any kind in Iceland. Some oneindeed reported that one had been introduced into Reykjavik; we did notsee it, but after once experiencing the nature of the roads, one canunderstand the absence of any wheeled conveyance. No ordinary springscould possibly stand the boulders of rock and lava, or the 'frostmounds, ' over which the hardy Icelandic pony is accustomed to make hisway. The native women ride man-fashion, a mode--as I shall laternarrate--we ladies were compelled to adopt. For short distances a chairsaddle is frequently used, somewhat resembling the writing-chair of anEnglish study. The occupant sits sideways, having a board under herfeet, in this way securing rest for the back. The ponies are intelligentand sure-footed, and require little or no guiding; but the amount ofjogging and shaking which the rider is forced to undergo istremendous--one wonders they have any senses left. We had beenfortunate in securing an introduction to Mr Stephenson, one of the chiefofficials of the Island, and also a native of the place, under whoseescort we at once lionised the little town (if such it may be called), the second largest in Iceland. It consists of a collection oftwo-storied wooden houses, raised on a platform of lava blocks, plainand severe in structure, and painted yellow or white. Pretty muslincurtains and flowers adorn the windows, and as in this northern climethe keeping of flowers is no easy matter, the cultivation of themstrikes one as highly praiseworthy. Inside the houses we found nicelypolished floors, and simply furnished rooms, of a truly German style, stove included. The poorer abodes were mere hovels made of peat, admitting neither light nor air, and having the roofs covered withgrass. One would have thought them almost uninhabitable, and yet I hadseen dwellings nearly as bad around Killarney, and Glengariff. 

What a hard life is that of the poor Icelanders! When our ship arrived, they were on the verge of starvation, their supplies being allexhausted. Glad indeed they must have been to welcome the _Camoens_, andknow that flour and other staple articles of food were once again withintheir reach. Outside every house we noticed rows of dried fish hung up, and ready for the winter's consumption. Fish, but especially cod, is thestaple food of the Icelander; but among the poorest class this reserveconsists more of fishes' heads, than fish _in toto_. What would a Londonepicure think of being obliged to feed for months together upon theheads of dried cod, which had for some weeks been exposed to theelements to render them hard and fit for eating. These heads are therefuse of fish, which are dried and exported to France, Spain, andEngland, and the heads not being required in these countries, are usedby the Icelanders as food, being boiled down into a species of cake, which is eaten alike by the natives and their cattle, the liquid beinggiven to the ponies. 

Mr Stephenson told us that a large proportion of ponies thus fed diedduring the winter for lack of better nutriment. 

A good riding pony in Iceland cost from £4 to £8, and a pack pony less:we hired them at 2s. 6d. A day. The breeding of these ponies is one ofthe great sources of livelihood, as the export last year numbered 3476. In the last voyage made by the _Camoens_, she brought home 975 of thesehardy little animals, which gives some idea of the extent of the trade. 

The smell of the fish while drying is terrible, the whole atmospherebeing permeated with the odour. The streets are also paved with old fishheads and fish bones; indeed, at each port we touched, the smell offish, fresh or dried, assailed eyes and noses in every direction. Thepopulation of Akureyri is under 1000, and is the residence of theLieutenant-Governor of the northern part of the Island. We visited oneor two of the streets, hoping to meet with some curiosities, but pots, pans, kettles, and other domestic utensils of the most ordinary kind, alone met our view. In the eatable line, coarse brown sugar-candy seemedto abound, which the purchasers shovelled into bags or sacks, andcarried off in quantities. We learnt that it is used by the Icelandersfor sweetening coffee, having the double advantage of being pure sugar, and a hard substance resisting the damp which the snow engenders. 

While in Akureyri we saw some poultry, perhaps half a dozen cocks andhens, but they were the only ones we met with in the Island; nor did weever come across a pig! Fancy a land without these common accessories toa peasant's board! Eggs are only eaten on state occasions, and areconsidered a luxury, being imported from France; the eggs of the eiderduck are considered very good food: they are, of course, only procurableround the coast. 

Lord Dufferin gaily tells us, in his 'Letters from High Latitudes, ' ofan indiscriminating cock which was shipped at Stornway, and had becomequite bewildered on the subject of that meteorological phenomenon 'theDawn of Day. ' It was questioned, in fact, whether he ever slept for morethan five minutes at a stretch without waking up in a state of nervousagitation lest it should be cock crow, and at last, when night ceasedaltogether, his constitution could no longer stand the shock. Crowingonce or twice sarcastically he went melancholy mad, and finally taking acalenture he cackled loudly (possibly of green fields), and then leaptoverboard and drowned himself. '

Akureyri is both famous for, and proud of, its trees. There are actuallyfive of them: these are almost the only trees in the Island. Miserablespecimens indeed they appeared to us southerners, not being more than 10feet high at most, and yet they were thought more of by the natives, than the chesnuts of Bushey Park by a Londoner. 

The absence of wood in the Island is to a great extent overcome by theinhabitants collecting their fuel from the Gulf Stream, which bringsdrift wood in large quantities from Mexico, Virginia, the CarolineIslands, and even from the Pacific Ocean. 

There is no lack of peat in certain districts, which, as in Ireland, iscut into square blocks, then stacked on to the ponies' backs till nopony is discernible, and thus conveyed to the farm, where it is used asfuel. 

Indeed many of the houses are built of peat in the interior of thecountry where wood is not procurable. The peat for this purpose is cutin big blocks, thoroughly dried in the sun, and then it is easilycemented together with mud, thus making warm rooms, sheds, or passagesto the farm houses. 

Beautiful as much of the scenery was through which we passed, I must ownthat want of foliage struck me as a terrible drawback to the perfectionof the landscape, which, in other respects, was very wild and grand. 

We dined at Akureyri at the little inn, which boasted of a fair-sizedsitting-room, but not enough chairs to accommodate our party; so threesat in a row on an old-fashioned horsehair sofa, while we two ladies andour guest, Mr Stephenson, occupied the chairs. Our dinner consisted ofsoup, or rather porridge, of tapioca, flavoured with vanilla, acuriosity not known in Paris, I fancy; then a species of baked pudding, followed by some kind of a joint of mutton--but I am quite unable to sayfrom what part of the sheep that joint was cut; no vegetables; blackbread, and a kind of tea cake; bottled beer and corn brandy, augmentedby coffee. 

During our repast, Mr Stephenson gave us much information about theIsland. He told us a bank had lately been opened in the capital, whichhe hoped would soon be followed by a branch at Akureyri, a progress ofcivilisation which must of necessity circulate money more freely, andmake the present system of barter less common--ponies, sheep, fish, etc. , being now given in preference to money in exchange for goods. 

Sending or receiving money in Iceland anywhere except in its capital, isa difficult matter, as there is no organised post office method for suchtransactions. 

The following history and constitution of the bank in Reykjavik, furnished me by Mr Gordon, may be interesting to my readers. 

'There is one bank, the State Bank. Its capital consists of the revenuesof the Island; there are no shareholders. The manager is an Icelander, who has one assistant only, who keeps the books. Two inspectors orauditors are appointed by the Governor of Iceland. The Bank has justbeen started under the control of the Governor and Council of Iceland;and on the 1st July 1886 began an issue of State notes--legal tender inIceland only. Danish notes are also tender in Iceland, though thereverse is not the case. The issue is limited to Kr. 500, 000, or£27, 777. They are issued against the security of the revenues of theIsland, and they are forced on the people, who do not as yet take tothem, and no wonder, considering the great want of communication even inthe summer months. They are convertible for either silver or gold atReykjavik. Branch banks will probably be opened at Akureyri, Seydisfjord, and Isafjord. The Bank publishes a statement of its affairsperiodically. The Bank charges 6 per cent. , as a rule, on advances, andgrants 3 per cent. On deposits. The Bank advances against land, andhouses (the latter in the capital only, as they cannot be insuredelsewhere against fire), and personal security. The advances are said tostand at Kr. 130, 000, or £7222. When against personal security apromissory note is taken, signed by the borrower and two irresponsiblewitnesses, or by two responsible obligants, according to standing. Title-deeds are taken as collateral security. The Bank has its own formsfor loan-documents. The probability is that the Bank will soon becomethe possessor of a great deal of property in houses and land in Iceland, as bad seasons are frequent, which prevent prompt payment. '

ICELANDIC AND ENGLISH MONEY TABLE. 

 £ _s. _ _d. _ 7-1/2 öre, 0 0 1 15 " 0 0 2 22-1/2 " 0 0 3 30 " 0 0 4 37-1/2 " 0 0 5 45 " 0 0 6 52-1/2 " 0 0 7 60 " 0 0 8 67-1/2 " 0 0 9 75 " 0 0 10 82-1/2 " 0 0 11 90 " 0 1 0 Kr. 1. 80 " 0 2 0 " 2. 70 " 0 3 0 " 3. 60 " 0 4 0 " 4. 50 " 0 5 0 " 5. 40 " 0 6 0 " 6. 30 " 0 7 0 " 7. 20 " 0 8 0 " 8. 10 " 0 9 0 " 9. 00 " 0 10 0 " 9. 90 " 0 11 0 " 10. 80 " 0 12 0 " 11. 70 " 0 13 0 " 12. 60 " 0 14 0 " 13. 50 " 0 15 0 " 14. 40 " 0 16 0 " 15. 30 " 0 17 0 " 16. 20 " 0 18 0 " 17. 10 " 0 19 0 " 18. 00 " 1 0 0 " 36. 00 " 2 0 0 " 54. 00 " 3 0 0 " 72. 00 " 4 0 0 " 90. 00 " 5 0 0 " 108. 00 " 6 0 0 " 126. 00 " 7 0 0 " 144. 00 " 8 0 0 " 162. 00 " 9 0 0 " 180. 00 " 10 0 0

After dinner, we visited the small Lutheran Church. Unfortunately we hadno opportunity of attending a service, though, to judge from theplainness of the ecclesiastical buildings, such must be very simple. The clergyman wears a black gown, and an enormous white Elizabethanfrill, with a tight-fitting black cap. This little church accommodatesabout 100 persons, and in place of pews, has merely wooden forms. Overthe altar was an old painting of the crucifixion, done by a nativeartist, and surrounded by a little rail. The walls were plainlywhitewashed, the windows bare, and no musical instrument was visible. There was, however, both a font and a pulpit. 

The town boasts of a hospital, a free library, and two printingestablishments. At night we returned to our ship quarters. 

The next day, there being nothing more to be seen in Akureyri, wedecided to take a ride, in order to visit a waterfall, which MrStephenson told us would repay the fatigue, and also give us some ideaof what an Icelandic expedition was like. Truly that first ride is anever-to-be-forgotten experience. Our road lay over rough stones, and'frost-mounds. ' These latter are a recognised feature in Icelandictravel; they are small earth hillocks, about 2-1/2 feet wide and 2 feethigh, caused, according to Professor Geikie, by the action of the frost. In some parts these mounds cover the ground, lying close to each other, so as to leave little or no room for the ponies to step between, andthey have to walk over them, a movement which sways the rider from sideto side, causing many a tumble even to experienced native horsemen. Itis like riding over a country graveyard, 'Where heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap. '

As to road, there was none, nor is there such a thing in Iceland worthyof the name. The rider merely turns his pony's head in the direction hewishes to go, and it picks its own way far better than he could guideit. The bridle used is a curious workmanship of knotted rope or thickstring with a brass curb or bit, ornamented by some queer head ordevice. The saddles are equally quaint. Those of the women I havealready described; those of the men are made very high, both in frontand behind, somewhat like a Mexican saddle, there being a hollow in thecentre. A crupper is always used, and straps are attached to the back ofthe saddle, from which the farmer hangs his sealskin bags, containing an_omnium gatherum_ of his lighter goods. 

The ponies are very slightly girthed, nor, indeed, would it do totighten them, so old and rotten is the usual paraphernalia for theirequipment that an attempt in this direction would bring the whole thingto grief, which species of _contretemps_ we met with more than onceduring our rides. In fact, a small English side-saddle and bridle wouldbe not only a most useful addition to a lady's luggage, but add much toher safety and comfort. 

While at Akureyri, Mr Stephenson kindly lent us two ladies' saddles, orwe should never have accomplished that first ride. They wereold-fashioned two-pommeled ones, with gorgeously-embroidered cushions, on which we were supposed to sit, and marvellous saddle-cloths; and werealised we were travellers in earnest when once we mounted and started. Icelandic ponies walk well, and are also trained to pace, a movementclosely resembling that of an American runner. This is a motion whichrequires experience, as it is too quick to rise without practice, andtoo rough to sit still in the saddle. Some of the ponies trotted, otherscantered well, but one had to make them understand one wanted them to doso, as the usual Icelandic mode of riding is that of 'pacing, ' at whichthe animals continue for hours. Later in our trip, when we visited theGeysers, we had to ride over 40 miles a day, in order to cover thedistance in time to catch our steamer on its return voyage, and thusbecame well acquainted with pony riding in all its various modes ofprocedure. 

It did not take us long to reach the Gléra waterfall, which was verypretty, about a mile from the fjord, and formed by the river: trout cansometimes be caught in the pool beneath the fosse. 

Perhaps the most noticeable feature of Akureyri was the shark oilmanufactory between that little town and Oddeyri, the stench of whichwas something so fearful that I know of nothing that could possiblycompare with it. In certain winds it can be smelt for miles. Themanufacture of cod liver oil is bad enough, but that of shark oil iseven worse. Luckily, the establishments where such oil is made are notnumerous, and are principally confined to such out-of-the-way regions asIceland and Greenland. 

At Oddeyri there was another store of great importance to the natives, viz. , a large meat preserving place, where great preparations were inactive progress for the coming winter. 

Not far distant from here lives a very remarkable man, a self-taughtartist of considerable power, who has never been out of the Island, consequently has but rarely seen a picture, and yet his artisticinstincts and power of representation are of no mean order; and moreespecially displayed in his altar pieces. I wonder what he would say tothose of Rubens or Vandyck! This man has the greatest love of animals, and was surrounded, when we visited him, by a number of dogs of theIcelandic breed, small animals closely resembling the Pomeranian, withlong coats and sharp stand-up ears, which always give a knowing look tothe canine head. Most of them seemed to be black, though not a few werea rich sable brown. They are pretty beasts. I don't believe there is acat in the Island, leastways we never saw one, wild or tame, during oursojourn there. The domesticated cat, fowls, and pigs are practicallyunknown in these climes. 

Some 20 miles from Akureyri once lived another interesting man, Sira JonThorlackson, a well-known native poet, many of whose verses are dear tohis countrymen; in his lifetime he undertook and accomplished atranslation of Milton's 'Paradise Lost. '

There are some 20, 000 specimens of butterflies scattered over the world, and yet in Iceland these species are unknown, although insects ofcertain kinds do exist, especially mosquitos, as we learnt to our cost. Although there are no butterflies, and but few insects, flowers abound. 

An Agricultural College has lately been established in the vicinity ofAkureyri, the headmaster having formerly been one of the librarians ofthe Advocates' Library in Edinburgh. No doubt the natives will learn todrain their bogs and swamps, level their frost mounds, and produce moreout of the earth than at present, with the help of this much neededinstitution. 

How terribly soon that curse of modern civilisation, drunkenness, spreads! It was Sunday when we first landed at Akureyri, and I am sorryto say not a few of its inhabitants had imbibed more corn brandy thanwas good for them; it seemed to have the effect of making themmaudlingly affectionate, or else anxious to wrestle with everybody. 

The two days the _Camoens_ lay off Akureyri gave us no time forprolonged excursions, but was more than sufficient to lionise the littletown, so we were not sorry when the steamer's whistle summoned us toreturn to our floating home. 

Ten hours' further journey and our anchor was dropped oppositeSauderkrok, an even smaller town than Akureyri, with its 1000inhabitants, but which interested us more from its very primitivepopulation, If the reader will follow the steamer's course in the map, he will find Sauderkrok marked in its direct course. 

CHAPTER V. 

HISTORICAL NOTES. 

Before proceeding to narrate more of our own experiences of Iceland, Ihave ventured to collate the following memoranda of the early history ofthe Island, from Mr George Lock's, F. R. G. S. , 'Guide to Iceland, ' a mostvaluable appendage to a traveller's luggage in that Island; the fewnotes gathered from its pages and other guide-books will enable myreaders to follow my narrative with greater interest; whilst I trustthis open acknowledgment of my piracy will be forgiven. 

 * * * * *

It has been ascertained that before the year 874 Iceland was almost anuninhabited Island, being occupied only by a few natives, Culdee Monks, who having seceded from the Roman Catholic faith, retired there forsafety and quiet. 

Prior to its settlement it was circumnavigated by a Swede, who landed, it is said, and wintered there, and in 868, Flóki Vilgertharsson, amighty Viking, visited it, who gave it the present name of Iceland. 

The first permanent settlers were of the Norse race; two men who, banished from their country, fitted out a ship and sailed to Iceland, where in 874 they made a settlement in the south of the island. 

Later Harold Haarfager, a tyrannical and warlike spirit, who was fastextending his kingdom over Norway, so offended many of his subjects, among them several powerful chiefs, that the latter, to avoid furtherwarfare, quitted the land of their birth, and went to settle in Iceland. 

This emigration in due time peopled it, until sixty years later itspopulation was calculated at 50, 000, which has now increased to 72, 000. Most of the settlers came from Norway, supplemented by a few from theOrkneys, Scotland, and Ireland. One of the fjords bears the name of'Patrick's Fjord, ' after an Irish Bishop. 

The climate of Iceland at this early date seems to have been a far moremoderate one than at the present time, a fact established by scientificresearch. 

In the early days of the Island, the Norse chiefs who took possession ofit appropriated to themselves large tracts of country, distributing themamong their own retainers; these latter in return swore allegiance totheir separate chiefs, undertaking to support them in their privatequarrels, whilst they were themselves in this manner protected fromaggression. 

Every Norse chieftain of any note established a 'Hof' or Temple in hisown lands, whilst the yearly sacrificial feasts were supported by a taxgathered from the people. Each chief reigned supreme within his ownjurisdiction, and could take life or confiscate property at will. Atgiven periods these feudal rulers met to discuss affairs of importance, or to promulgate laws for the better government of the community; butthey had no written laws, or any general accepted body of lawgivers, hence, as may easily be supposed, constant differences of opinionexisted, which per force was settled by an appeal to arms. Such a stateof things, where 'might became right, ' could not continue long amid sucha warlike nation as the Norsemen, and in 926 the principal chiefs of theIsland took steps to form a Commonwealth, and established a code of lawsfor its government. It was for some time a question where this primitivenational assembly should meet, and finally a rocky enclosure, situatedin a sunken plain, cut off by deep rifts from the surrounding country, was selected. This spot, so romantic in position, so safe fromintrusion, so associated with the early government of the Island, wascalled 'Thingfield, ' or 'speaking place'--Thingvaller it is nowtermed--and here the first Althing was held in 929; at the same period'Logmen' or law-givers were appointed, to whom universal reference onlegal questions was referred. 

This 'Althing' combined both the power of a High Parliament and that ofa Court of Justice, and before the introduction of Christianity into theIsland, its members were called upon to swear upon a sacred ring, brought for the purpose from the temple of the High Priest, toadminister both 'with justice and clemency. '

About the time William of Normandy invaded England, Godred Crovan, sonof Harold the Black of Iceland, conquered the Isle of Man, in whosefamily it remained for some centuries. Probably through this Norseconnection the custom of proclaiming the laws to the people in thislatter Isle from a hill in the open air was first introduced, althoughnow discarded by the Althing in Iceland and in various Northern Isles. In the Isle of Man the laws are still read to the people on 5th July onTynwald Hill; of late years they have only been read in English, butuntil 1865 they were also proclaimed in the Manx language (which isnearly related to Gaelic), many of the natives not speaking or evenunderstanding English. 

According to Joseph Train's 'Historical Notes on the Isle of Man, ' 'thegreat annual assembly of the Islanders at the Tynwald Hill, on the Feastday of St John the Baptist, is thus described in the Statute Book, --"Ourdoughtful and gracious Lord, this is the Constitution of old time, thewhich we have given in our days: First, you shall come thither in yourRoyal Array, as a King ought to do, by the Prerogatives and Royalties ofthe Land of Mann; and upon the Hill of Tynwald sitt in a chaire, coveredwith the royall cloath and cushions, and your visage unto the east, andyour sword before you, holden with the point upwards; your barrons inthe third degree sitting beside you, and your beneficed men and yourDeemsters before you sitting; and your Clarke, Knights, Esquires, andYeomen, and yeoman about you in the third degree; and the worthiest manin your Land (these are the twenty-four Keys) to be called in beforeyour Deemsters, if you will ask any Thing of them, and to hear theGovernment of your Land and your will; and the Commons to stand withoutthe circle of the Hill with three Clarkes in their surplisses. "'

Even at the present day this ceremony continues in the Isle of Man, asabove said. When the officials arrive at the Tynwald Hill, the Governorand Bishops take their seats, surrounded by the Council and the Keys, the people being assembled on the outside to listen. 

From the establishment of the Althing until the 11th century, theIcelanders seem to have managed their internal affairs with moderationand discretion; at least little of importance connected with the Islandis recorded until the discovery of Greenland by Eric the Red, whichsubsequently led to that of America, towards the end of the 10thcentury, by Biono Herioljorm, and before the time of Columbus. 

 CHRONOLOGICAL DATES. 

 Colonised, 874. 

 First Althing sat, 929. 

 Christianity introduced, 1000. 

 Snorri Sturlusson murdered, 1241, 22d Sept. 

 Had a republic and a flourishing literature, till subjected to Hakon, King of Norway, 1264. 

 Iceland fell under Danish rule, 1380. 

 Protestantism (Lutheranism) introduced about 1551. 

 Famine through failure of crops, 1753-54. 

 Greatest volcanic eruptions, 1783. 

 New Constitution signed by the King Christian of Denmark on his visit to Iceland when the 1000th anniversary of the colonisation of Iceland was celebrated, 1874, 1 Aug. 

 Eruption of 1783 destroyed 10, 000 men. " " 28, 000 ponies. " " 11, 500 cows. " " 200, 000 sheep. 

 Latest great eruption 1875. 

The following curious custom is copied from Dr Kneeland's book:--

'In their pagan age, it was the custom for the father to determine, assoon as a child was born, whether it should be exposed to death orbrought up; and this not because the rearing of a deformed or weak childwould deteriorate a race which prided itself on strength and courage, but from the inability of the parents, from poverty, to bring up theiroffspring. The newly born child was laid on the ground, and thereremained untouched until its fate was decided by the father or nearestmale relative; if it was to live, it was taken up and carried to thefather, who, by placing it in his arms, or covering it with his cloak, made himself publicly responsible for its maintenance. It was thensprinkled with water, and named. This was regarded in pagan times assacred as the rite of baptism by Christians, and after its performanceit was murder to expose it. . . . The usual mode of desertion was either toplace the infant in a covered grave, and there leave it to die, or toexpose it in some lonely spot, where wild animals would not be likely tofind it. After the introduction of Christianity, such exposure waspermitted only in cases of extreme deformity. '

In 997, the first Christian missionary, Thangbrand, landed in Iceland, and preached Christianity to its inhabitants by fire and sword; but theseverity with which he tried to enforce his views, failed to convincethe people to give up Paganism. Two years later, however, Iceland threwoff the heathen yoke, and embraced the Roman Catholic religion. Early inthe 11th century, several Icelanders visited Europe to study in itsvarious universities, whilst churches and schools were established inthe Island, taught by native bishops and teachers, and with suchmarvellous rapidity did education spread among the people, that itreached its culminating point in the 13th century, when the literaryproductions of the Icelanders became renowned through Europe during whatwas termed the Dark Ages. 

 'Iceland shone with glorious lore renowned, A northern light when all was gloom around. ' _Montgomery. _

Towards the end of the 12th century the peace of Iceland was broken upby internal struggles for power, which resulted in the loss of itsindependence. So wide-spread, in fact, had become these internal feuds, that at last some of the chiefs, refusing to submit to have theirdifferences settled by the laws of the country, visited Norway, andsolicited the help of its king, Hakon the Old. 

Now this king had long been ambitious to annex Iceland to his dominions, and in lieu of settling the disputes brought before him, by an amicablearrangement between the Icelandic chiefs, he only fomented theirquarrels, and finally persuaded a number of them to place Iceland underhis sceptre. This they agreed to do, and, after much bloodshed, in 1264Iceland was annexed to Norway, and its far-famed little republic becameextinct. 

The history of the Island since that date has been a mournful one. Untilthirty years since, the conquest of their Island by Norway, left in itstrain nothing but apathy and discontent among its inhabitants; in fact, the poor Icelanders, when once they realised their loss of independence, seemed to have neither spirit nor power to rise above the state ofsuicidal slavery into which they had fallen through their politicaldifferences. 

In 1848, however, an heroic band of patriots combined, and foughtbravely to rescue their country from the degrading condition into whichit had fallen; but its long subjection to a foreign yoke has left, it isfeared, a lasting impression on the character of its inhabitants, andthis, combined with their great poverty, has engendered a sadness andsoberness of spirit which they seem unable to overcome. 

In 1830, Norway was united to Denmark, and Iceland was transferred tothe Danish crown. In 1851 the Icelanders threw off the Roman Catholicsupremacy, and embraced the Lutheran form of worship. 

In 1800 their time-honoured institution, viz. , 'The Althing, ' was doneaway with, and for the subsequent forty-three years Danish ruleprevailed. In 1843, however, the former state of government wasre-established, but only in a very limited form, the power granted to itbeing but a shadow of its former self, whilst its sittings were removedfrom the rocky fortress where it had so long held sway, to the capital, Reykjavik, a large stone building having been erected for itsdeliberations. 

In 1848, when Denmark proclaimed its Constitution, the Icelanders in abody petitioned that the full power of the Althing should be restored. For many years this petition was presented in vain, until King Christianvisited the Island, signed a new and separate Constitution for Icelandin January 1873, at the same time retaining certain prerogatives. 

In size Iceland is somewhat larger than Ireland, its area beingcalculated at 38, 000 square miles. Geographically it lies south of thesouth of the Arctic Circle, about 650 miles north-west of DuncansbyHead. Its eastern, northern, and north-western coasts are deeplyindented with a number of narrow fjords, whilst the southern coast, onthe contrary, has not a bay or fjord capable of affording a harbour toeven a small vessel. 

A group of islands, called Westmannaggar, or Irishmen's Isles, lie offthe south coast, and in the various bays on its western coast areinnumerable smaller islets. 

The interior of the Island is mostly a broad barren plateau, from whichrise ice-clad mountains and sleeping volcanoes. Its inhabited regionslie along the coast, where there are small tracts which repaycultivation. The area of the lava deserts, viz. , tracts of countrycovered with lava which has flowed down from volcanic mountains, iscomputed at 2400 square miles, whilst there are 5000 square miles ofvast stony uncultivated wastes--nearly one seventh of the entirearea--which apparently increase in extent. 

The Island consists of 'Toklar, ' or glaciers, and coned heights known as'Vatna Toklar, ' 'Läng Tökull, ' 'Dranga, ' and 'Glamu Toklar, ' and a groupof mountains called 'Töklar Guny' in the south of the Island. 

The area of pasture land all over Iceland is estimated at 15, 000 Englishmiles, but a large part of this is moorland, whilst, sad to say, thepasture land is visibly diminishing, and the sandy wastes increasing. This, to a certain extent, is due to the want of industry of thenatives. 

In 1875 no less than 1000 square miles was buried beneath an eruption ofpumice, but it is considered that the action of the frost and rain uponthis porous substance will eventually fertilise the soil and permit ofits cultivation. Iceland is the most volcanic region of the earth. 

The Island has four large lakes and innumerable small rivers, none ofwhich are navigable beyond a short distance from the mouth. It is notpossible to enter here at large on the volcanic features of the Island, but a short chapter has been appended at the end of the volume touchingon the principal volcanoes, their action and eruptions. 

[Illustration: PONIES FORDING A RIVER. ]

CHAPTER VI. 

SAUDERKROK--RIDING. 

At a short distance from shore, Sauderkrok, appeared to us at first amost forlorn-looking little settlement, consisting of some few dozenwooden houses and peat hovels. However, on a closer acquaintance withthe place, during the two days the steamer remained in port to enableour captain to unload some 200 tons of cargo, we found plenty of thingsto interest us in the little town. 

There being no warehouses, or even sheds, to store the newly arrivedgoods, they were piled on the beach, and there sold by auction. It was amost amusing scene, the whole population turning out to witness, or takepart in, the bidding for the goods thus sold. 

The goods were piled up in a half circle, the auctioneer sitting on atable in the middle, assisted by one or two of the chief town's folk. Outside the circle stood men, women, and children from all surroundingparts of the Island; beyond them again, the patient little ponieswaiting for the loads they were to carry off inland. Much of the salewas carried on by barter, a system of trading not wholly comprehensibleto us strangers, although we saw the natives offer specimens of whatthey had to exchange. As onlookers, such a novel exhibition afforded afine field for the study of Icelandic physiognomy, the expressions ofanxiety, pleasure, or disappointment being depicted on their faces whenthe coveted goods were knocked down to the would-be purchaser, or not. To these poor people this must have been a meeting of the greatestimportance, as their winter comforts mostly depended thereon; but suchis their habitual apathy, that even this great event caused littleoutward excitement. 

No sooner were the goods purchased, than the ship's crew sorted themout, and with the help of an interpreter they were handed over to theirowners, some of whom within a few hours were starting off on theirhomeward journey; a considerable part of the goods, however, stillremained on the shore when we left two days later, the purchasers havingarranged to return for future loads. 

In 1883 the imports amounted to £337, 000, from bread, groceries, wines, beer, spirits, tobacco, and stuffs. Trade has been open to all nationssince 1854. 

THE EXPORTS OF ICELAND IN 1887. 

 Salted cod cwt. 112, 201 value £138, 506 Other salted fish " 57, 226 " 46, 810 Salted herring barrels 27, 096 " 20, 000 " salmon cwt. 218 " 763 Cod oil barrels 1, 215 " 2, 738 Shark oil " 7, 508 " 22, 524 Seal oil " 121 " 336 Whale oil " 230 " 460 Ponies numbers 3, 476 " 10, 428 Sheep " 10, 000 " 10, 000 Wool cwt. 12, 134 " 47, 561 Salted mutton " 9, 336 " 11, 968 Eider down lbs. 7, 149 " 5, 415

besides woollen stockings and gloves, skins, feathers, tallow, driedfish, sounds, and roes. 

Sauderkrok was to witness a new experiment in our mounting arrangements. On our arrival, as usual we intended riding into the interior, andapplied at the only inn in the place for ponies, when to ourdiscomfiture we learnt no such thing as a lady's side-saddle was to beobtained. The innkeeper and our party held a long consultation as towhat was to be done, during which the inhabitants of the place gatheredround us in full force, apparently much interested in our proceedings. 

At last one of the lookers-on disappeared, and presently returned intriumph with a chair-saddle, such as already described, used by thenative women. This was assigned to Miss T. No second one, however, wasobtainable, and I had to choose between remaining behind or overcomingthe difficulties of riding lady fashion on a man's saddle. Mydetermination was quickly taken, and much to the amusement of our party, up I mounted, the whole village stolidly watching the proceeding, whilstthe absence of pommel contributed considerably to the difficulty I hadin keeping my seat. 

Off we started, headed by our guide, and as long as the pony walked Ifelt very comfortable in my new position, so much so that I ventured totry a trot, when round went the saddle and off I slipped. Vaughan cameto my rescue, and after readjusting the saddle, and tightening thegirths, I remounted, but only with the same result. How was I to getalong at this rate?

I had often read that it was the custom for women in South America, andin Albania, who have to accomplish long distances on horseback, to rideman fashion. Indeed, women rode so in England, until side-saddles wereintroduced by Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard II. , and many continuedto ride across the saddle until even a later date. In Iceland I had seenwomen ride as men, and felt more convinced than ever that this mode wassafer and less fatiguing. Although I had ridden all my life, theroughness of the Icelandic roads and ponies made ladywise on a man'ssaddle impossible, and the sharpness of the pony's back, riding with nosaddle equally so. There was no alternative: I must either turn back, ormount as a man. Necessity gives courage in emergencies. I determinedtherefore to throw aside conventionality, and do in 'Iceland as theIcelanders do. ' Keeping my brother at my side, and bidding the rest rideforward, I made him shorten the stirrups, and hold the saddle, and aftersundry attempts succeeded in landing myself man fashion on the animal'sback. The position felt very odd at first, and I was also somewhatuncomfortable at my attitude, but on Vaughan's assuring me there was nocause for my uneasiness, and arranging my dress so that it fell in foldson either side, I decided to give the experiment a fair trial, and in avery short time got quite accustomed to the position, and trotted alongmerrily. Cantering was at first a little more difficult, but Ipersevered, and in a couple of hours was quite at home in my newposition, and could trot, pace, or canter alike, without any fear of anupset. The amusement of our party when I overtook them, and boldlytrotted past, was intense; but I felt so comfortable in my altered seatthat their derisive and chaffing remarks failed to disturb me. Perhapsmy boldness may rather surprise my readers; but after full experience, under most unfavourable circumstances, I venture to put on paper theresult of my experiment. 

[Illustration: OUR MODE OF RIDING. _Page 66. _]

Riding man-fashion is less tiring than on a side-saddle, and I soonfound it far more agreeable, especially when traversing rough ground. Mysuccess soon inspired Miss T. To summon up courage and follow my lead. She had been nearly shaken to pieces in her chair pannier, besideshaving only obtained a one-sided view of the country through which sherode; and we both returned from a 25 mile ride without feeling tired, whilst from that day till we left the Island, we adopted no other modeof travelling. I am quite sure had we allowed conventional scruples tointerfere, we should never have accomplished in four days the 160 miles'ride to the Geysers, which was our ultimate achievement. 

I may here mention our riding costume. We had procured very simply madethick blue serge dresses before leaving home, anticipating roughtravelling. The skirts being full and loose, hung well down on eitherside when riding, like a habit on the off and near sides, and weflattered ourselves that, on the whole, we looked both picturesque andpractical. Our very long waterproof boots (reaching above the knee)proved a great comfort when fording rivers, which in an Iceland ride arecrossed every few miles, sometimes oftener. For the rest, we woreordinary riding attire. 

The crooked position of a side-saddle--for one must sit crooked to lookstraight--is very fatiguing to a weak back, and many women to whom theexercise would be of the greatest benefit, cannot stand the strain; sothis healthy mode of exercise is debarred them, because Society saysthey must not ride like men. Society is a hard task-master. Nothing iseasier than to stick on a side-saddle, of course, and nothing moredifficult than to ride gracefully. 

For comfort and safety, I say ride like a man. If you have not courageto do this, in visiting Iceland take your own side-saddle and bridle(for a pony), as, except in Reykjavik, horse furniture is of the mostmiserable description, and the constant breakages cause many delays, while there are actually no side-saddles, except in the capital, and achair is an instrument of torture only to be recommended to your worstenemy. 

On one occasion, while the rest of the party were settling and arrangingabout ponies, which always occupied some time, I sat down to sketch on abarrel of dried fish, and was at once surrounded by men, women, andchildren, who stood still and stared, beckoning to all their passingfriends to join them, till quite a crowd collected. 

They seemed to think me a most extraordinary being. The bolder ones ofthe party ventured near and touched me, feeling my clothes, discussedthe material, and calmly lifted my dress to examine my highriding-boots, a great curiosity to them, as they nearly all wear thepeculiar skin shoes already described. The odour of fish not only fromthe barrel on which I was seated, but also from my admiring crowd, wassomewhat appalling as they stood around, nodding and chatting to oneanother. 

Their interest in my sketch was so great I cannot believe they had everseen such a thing before, and I much regretted my inability to speaktheir language, so as to answer the many questions I was asked about itall. I fancied they were satisfied, however, for before going away, theyone and all shook hands with me, till my hand quite ached from so manyfriendly grasps. 

The men in Iceland always kiss one another when they meet, as also dothe women, but I only once saw a man kiss a woman!

'Snuffing' is a great institution. The snuff is kept in a long box, likea gourd, often a walrus tooth, with a long brass mouth. This they putright up the nostril, turning the head to do so--a very dirty anduncouth habit, but one constantly indulged in by both sexes. They alsosmoke a great deal. On one occasion Vaughan gave a guide some tobacco. He took it, filled his pipe, and put it back in his pocket, shaking hishead as much as to say he could not light his pipe in the wind. Thisdilemma was overcome by Vaughan offering a fusee. The man took it, looked at it, and grinned. So Vaughan showed him how to use it, andstruck a light. His astonishment and amusement were so overwhelming thathe got off his pony, and rolled about on the ground with delight. He hadevidently never seen such a curiosity before. 

We rode to Reykir, 10 or 12 miles from Sauderkrok, where there are hotsprings. The road was very bad, and it took us nearly three hours toaccomplish the distance, but this may be partly accounted for by ourstopping every half-hour to mend some one's broken harness. My onlygirth, a dilapidated old thing, was mended with string, and whentrotting along soon after starting, the saddle and I both rolled offtogether, the only fall I have ever had in my life, and from a littleIcelandic pony too! I was thoroughly disgusted at the accident, and mywant of balance. However, I soon had occasion to comfort myself on myeasy fall, when our guide and pony turned three complete somersaultsdown a hill, the man disappearing. But he soon rolled out from beneaththe animal, shook himself, and mounted once again. How every bone in hisbody was not broken I can't imagine, so rough and strewn with lavaboulders, was the ground on which he fell. 

Shortly after our party had left Sauderkrok, a young Icelander wasnoticed riding after us, and when my fall occurred, he advanced towardsus politely, and offered me the use of his pony and saddle, which Igratefully accepted, and he mounted mine, riding without any girths, andgracefully balancing himself in a most marvellous manner. This newaddition to our party proved a very valuable one, as he talked Englishperfectly, and was most intelligent and communicative. He told us he wason his way to Copenhagen to study languages, preparatory to trying for aprofessorship at Reykjavik, and we found he had already masteredEnglish, French, Latin, and Danish. His name never transpired, but welearnt that as soon as the news reached him that an English party hadlanded and started for 'Reykir, ' he had saddled a pony and ridden afterus, wanting to see what we were like, and also to endeavour to make ouracquaintance, and thus be able to air his English with English people, for until then he had never spoken it except with his teacher. My fallgave him the opportunity he wanted, as he was then able to offer hisservices without intrusion, which he did with the politest manners. 

The Icelanders are a wonderfully well-educated people. Our new friendtold us he did not believe there was a man or woman in the Island whocould not read and write, and certainly on our visits to the variousfarm-houses, we never failed to notice a Lutheran Bible, and many of theold 'Sagas, ' by native poets, beside translations of such works asShakespear, Göethe, John Stuart Mill's 'Political Economy, ' and otherwell-known writings. 

Icelandic is the oldest of the present German dialects, being purer thanthe Norwegian of to-day, and its literature dates from 1057, immediatelyafter the introduction of writing. 

The literature has been ascertained to be of so deeply interesting acharacter, that the fact of establishing an 'Icelandic Chair' in one ofour Universities is now, I believe, under consideration. Many of thenatives speak, and understand, Danish--indeed the laws are read to themin that language; and between Danish and Icelandic, we ladies succeededin making our German understood. Icelandic is now given with English andAnglo-Saxon as optional subjects for the examination at Cambridge forthe Modern Language Tripos. 

Appended are a few Icelandic sentences, which we found useful in ourtravels. They are spelt phonetically, as we learnt a few phrases fromsuch of the guides as could speak a little English. 

G. C. Locke, in his most interesting work 'The Home of the Eddas, ' inspeaking of Icelandic literature, says, 'Might not some of the hours sofruitlessly spent in misinterpreting incomprehensible Horace be morefitly devoted to the classics of Northern Europe?. . . Snovri Sturlusonthe author of the "Elder Edda, " has no compeer in Europe. '

 Can you lend us any ponies? Getithir launath okir hesta?

 Can you give us five ponies? Getithir launath okir fim hesta?

 No; I cannot lend you so Neg; jeg getiki launath many. īkur (_īdhur_ when speaking to one person) sō mārga. 

 I can give you two. Jeg gyet launath tvōa. 

 How many? Kwādh mārga?

 Thank you; please bring Thākur fir (_or_ tāk) Kurisō vel them. Ath Kwawma meth. 

 How long will you be Kwā lengi verthidh fīr (_thīeth_, away? when speaking to more than one) bŭrtū?

 We shall come back after Vīeth Kwawmim āftur riding six hours. Eftarath hāver rēdhith īsechstūna. 

 Where is Reykir? Kwāreru R[ēikir?

 You are not going the right Thīer fārith eki rēhtir lēdh. Way. 

 You must go back a little Thīer verdhith afara til paka way. Taulitith. 

Our young Icelandic student was very proud ofthe native Sagas, and justly so. They are workshighly esteemed, and of interest to the scholar, embodying the history of the Island, tales of itsformer chiefs, their laws, their feuds, their adoptionof Christianity, the sittings of the Althing, greatvolcanic eruptions, handed down by word of mouthfrom generation to generation, until the pastorsand learned men committed them to manuscript. They are also full of the most romantic adventures, stirring incidents, and courageous assaults, dear tothe heart of every Icelander, and treasured by themas a record of their country's history and its people'shardihood. 

[Illustration: Icelandic Farm. Cod fish drying. Etched by F. P. Fellows from a sketch by the Author, 1888. ]

CHAPTER VII. 

REYKIR. 

On arriving at Reykir, our guide conducted us tohis own dwelling, a fair-sized farm, where he andhis wife resided with all their mutual relations, this being the custom in Iceland. In this casethey included the wife, her father, mother, grandfather, and sister on the one side; the husband, his two brothers, sister, and mother on the other. Quite a happy little community, as the couplethemselves were also blessed with several children. 

On entering we were shown into the guestchamber, a small, neatly-furnished apartment, panelledwith wood, and containing two windows, neither of which were made to open--a peculiaritynot only to be found in Iceland but in some otherplaces, especially in Tyrol. A wooden bedsteadstood in one corner, covered with an elaboratepatch-work quilt, whilst a table and two chairsconstituted the remainder of the furniture. Asour party numbered five, some pack boxes wereadded--not very soft seats after a long joltingride. A looking-glass hung on the wall; but whata glass! It was quite impossible to recognise yourown face in it; I can only liken its reflection towhat one would see in a kitchen spoon--not asilver spoon--for there the features, though distorted, would be visible, here they were not. Certainlyif such mirrors are the only medium ofreflection the people of Reyker possess, they willnot grow vain of their personal attractions. Theroom also contained a barometer and an accordion. In most of the houses we entered we found thelatter instrument, which the people, being fond ofmusic, amuse themselves with during the longwinter evenings. Curiously enough, there is little orno native music, however. A bookcase on the wallcontained quite a small library of Icelandic literature. 

Tired with our long ride, we were very glad torest awhile, while our student friend, our guide, and all the combined families in the house downto the babies and the dogs, stood around us, untilthe room was so full I don't think another soulcould have found entrance. 

The Icelanders are on first acquaintance withstrangers somewhat reserved; but if treated affablythis reserve soon wears off, and their hospitality isunbounded. Even among the poorest a night'slodging is never refused to a traveller. 

In outlying districts the farmhouses take theplace of inns, whilst the charges are on a mostmoderate scale. 

We brought with us some cheese and biscuits, and a pound of Buzzard's chocolate, which thefarmer's wife supplemented with coffee and 'skyr, 'the latter served in soup plates. 

Skyr is the national dish, taking the place ofporridge to a Scotchman, and is nothing less thancurded sheep's milk, like German 'dicke-milch, 'eaten with sugar, to which cream is added as aluxury. As it was rather sour, we fought shy ofit at first, fearing future consequences, but this wasunnecessary. It is really excellent, and the nativeseat it in large quantities. Huge barrels of thisskyr are made during the time the sheep are infull milk, and stored away for winter's use. It isagreeable to the taste, satisfying, and wholesome. 

While eating our lunch, our host and his numerousfamily circle--who all seemed much interested atour presence--did nothing but ply us with continualquestions about England, the English people, andthe cost of the various articles we either wore orcarried with us. 

We invited our host and one or two of his friendsto taste our cheese and chocolate, when after everymouthful they each shook hands with all the gentlemenof our party; whilst those of the women whoshared our repast, after shaking hands with thegentlemen, kissed Miss T. And myself most affectionately. 

Class distinction is unknown in Iceland; in fact, there are no gentry, in our acceptation of the term, and little or no wealth among the inhabitants. 

I believe the Bishop is the richest man in theIsland, and his income is about £150 a year, a sumwhich these simple-minded folk look upon as riches. 

Our coffee and skyr, with attendance for sevenpeople, cost 1s. 7-1/2d. , a sum reasonable enough tomeet any traveller's purse. 

At the ports, however, in Iceland as elsewhere, we found we had to keep our wits about us toavoid being cheated, the English being credited asmade of money. 

Near to this farmhouse, at Reykir, there weresome hot springs which we visited, and we stoodand watched with much interest the water bubblingup to the surface. 

Close to one of these springs we noticed a largeopen tub in which the family washing was beingdone in the natural hot water thus supplied; butthe water was yellow, and gave off a sulphureousodour--although it did not seem to discolour theclothes. 

The ground around the house was, as usual, piledup with dried fish. It is difficult to realise thestench caused by this food supply, unless one hasexperienced it. Cod liver oil is made in largequantities in Iceland, and exported to England, where it is then refined for use. If a lover of codliver oil--and I believe such eccentric persons exist--couldonce be placed within 500 yards of its manufacture, I feel sure they would never taste it again. 

Our guide was one of the largest farmers inIceland, and owned the adjoining island, namely, 'Lonely Island, ' or 'Drangey, ' famous as the retreatof the outlawed hero of the 'Gretter-Saga. ' Thelegend states that one Christmas night the chief'sfire went out, and having no means of rekindlingit, he swam from Drangey Island to the Reykirfarm to get a light, a distance which to us, humanlyspeaking, seems impossible for any man to have done. 

The tale goes on to say that an old witch wentout in a boat to visit Gretter on Drangey. Theboat upset and she was drowned; but a large rocklike a boat in full sail rose from the sea a few yardsfrom the Island itself. 

The 'Saga' contains many wonderful tales inconnection with this locality, specially relative tothe high table-land which rises almost perpendicularlyabove the sea. The scenery in this part ofthe Island is very fine. On the west side of the'Skagaffiryr, ' a fair-sized river, are seen the peaksof the 'Tindastoll, ' a very steep range of mountainsintersected with water-worn gorges; while opposite, 'Malmey, ' or 'Sandstone Isle, ' juts into the sea, north of a rude peninsula with a low isthmus thatappears almost like an island. 

[Illustration: Drangey from Reykir. Aug. 9th, 1886. ]

In the middle of this fjord Drangey is situated. This island, which was the property of our guide, isa huge mass of rock, nearly perpendicular, while atone end is the witch's rock resembling the ship infull sail. Drangey is the home of innumerable eider-ducks, who swim at will in and about the surroundingwaters. The drake is a very handsome bird, alarge portion of his plumage being white; the henis smaller, and brown in colour. In disposition thebirds are very shy and retiring. The hen builds hernest with down plucked from her own breast; thisnest the farmer immediately takes possession of;the poor bird makes a second in like manner, whichis likewise confiscated; the third nest he leaves untouched, for by this time the bird's breast is almostbare. Eider-down is very valuable, fetching from12s. To 20s. Per pound. When the farmer desiresto catch the eider-duck, he places on the shore, atlow water, a small board, carefully set with a seriesof snares on its surface, and as the birds walk overit they are made prisoners by their feet. Theremust have been many thousands of eider-duck betweenReykir and Drangey, and no gun is allowedto be fired for miles around. 

Owing to the uneven nature of the ground, causedby constant earth mounds, even where the soil isgood the plough is used with great difficulty. Infact, it can only be utilised by removing the sodand levelling the earth with a spade, until smoothenough for a pony to drag the plough overit. There are very few ploughs, or indeed anyfarming implements of any size in Iceland, thefarmers being too poor to buy them, nor are thelatter at all an enterprising class, contenting themselveswith the primitive method of cultivating thesoil which their forefathers used to adopt. Ourguide being a man of more energy than his brethren, and wealthier, had invested in a plough, of whichhe was very proud, and exhibited to us as a greatnovelty, evidently thinking we had never seen sucha wonderful thing. 

Hay was being cut all the time we were in theIsland, cut under every possible disadvantage, andyet cut with marvellous persistency. With thislabour, of course, the frost mounds interfere, beingmost disastrous to the scythe, and yet the nativesnever leave a single blade of grass, cutting round andround, and between these curious little hillocks. Onthe hay crop so very much depends, for when thatfails, ponies die, sheep and cattle have to be killedand the meat preserved, and the farmer is nearlyruined. Hay is therefore looked upon as a treasureto its possessor, and is most carefully stored for thecattle's winter provender; but as during the greaterpart of the year the Icelanders are snowed up, thecultivation of hay or cereals is a difficult matter. 

In many parts of Iceland there exist enormousstretches of country covered with dangerous bog, which are, of course, at present undrained. Now, however, that an Agricultural College has been establishedin the Island, it is hoped a fresh impetuswill be given to farming operations in general. Atpresent there are only about 220 acres under cerealcultivation, whilst its inhabitants number over70, 000! Although there are no trees, as beforesaid, there is no scarcity of flowers, indeed theflora is particularly rich, in some instances beingcomposed of specimens not found elsewhere. Oftenfor miles the ground is thickly carpeted with themost beautiful mountain and Arctic flowers, sometimesnestling even in the snow, which lies in patchesquite near to the towns. Iceland moss is found onthe lava plains. 

Mr Gordon was a botanist, and brought home alarge collection of specimens; many more, on whichhe had set great store, were unfortunately lost fromthe pony's back. The following is a list of thosehe secured, a great number of which we foundgrowing among huge boulders in high barren places. 

LIST OF PLANTS BROUGHT FROM ICELAND. 

 1. Plantago maritima. 2. Raniunculus acris. 3. Euphrasia officinalis. 4. Alchemilla vulgaris. 5. Do. Alpina. 6. Erigeron alpinus. 7. Rumex acetosa. 8. Do. Acetocella. 9. Myosotis sylvatica. (?) 10. Cardamine pratensis. 11. Comarum palustris. 12. Trifolium repens. 13. Saxifraga oppositifolia. 14. Empetrum nigrum. 15. Cerastium alpinum. 16. Cynoglossum officinale. (?) 17. Penguicula vulgaris. 18. Poa alpina. 19. Capsella bursa pastoris. 20. Galium saxatile. 21. Stellaria aquatica. 22. Eriocaulon vaginatum. 23. Dryas octopetale. 24. Salix herbacea. 25. Do. Lapponica. 26. Do. Aurita. 27. Polygonum viviperum. 28. Thalictrum alpinum. 29. Leontodon taraxacum. 30. Samolus valerandi. 31. Equisetum pratense. 32. Stellaria cerastoides. 33. Viola tricolor. 34. Do. Palustris. 35. Cerastium trigynum. 36. Potentilla reptans. 37. Arabis. (sp. ?) 38. Betula nana. 39. Parnassia palustris. 40. Cerastium vulgatum. 41. Silene acaulis. 42. Vaccinium uliginosum. 43. Do. Vitis idea. 44. Thymus serpyllifolia. 45. Gentiana campestris. 46. Potentilla anserina. 47. Aparagia hispidus. 48. Rhinanthus crista galli. 49. Galium vulgaris. 50. Galium parisiense. 51. Geranium pratense. 

 Names furnished by C. A. Gordon, M. D. C. B. 

 Birch 2 species. } included in above. Willow 3 " }

Mushrooms grow abundantly in Iceland, and we much enjoyed them, eatenwith salt, as a supplement to our meals. 

After some hours' rest at Reykir, we remounted, and rode back toSauderkrok, parting with much regret from our student friend, who hadproved a most agreeable and intelligent addition to our party. 

That night we were none of us sorry to exchange our saddles for ourberths in the _Camoens_, having been on horseback the greater part ofthe day, on a road the roughness of which is indescribable. 

A further steam of twelve hours up the Hruta Fjord brought us toBordeyri, a still smaller place than Sauderkrok. Here our captaininformed us he should have to wait thirty-six hours for the discharge offurther cargo. This fjord is very dangerous, for it has never beensurveyed, consequently deep-sea leads were frequently used, the sailorsmeanwhile chanting a very pretty refrain. When we anchored oppositeBordeyri, we all noticed the anxious look which the captain's face hadlately worn had left him, and how pleased he seemed to have brought hissteamer safely to her moorings. 

We landed in a boat which came alongside the _Camoens_, and commenced atonce to take a survey of the place. A few dozen houses or so, with alarge store, where every necessary of life was supposed to be procurable(at least an Icelander's necessities), constituted the town. We enteredthe store in search of some native curiosities to carry home. A brisktrade was being carried on in sugar candy, large sacks of which werepurchased by the farmers, who had come to meet the steamer and bartertheir goods for winter supplies. Never was any shopping done undergreater difficulties than our own, and we almost despaired of makingourselves understood. The store-man, however, grinned mostgood-naturedly when we failed to do so, and we at last unearthed somefinely-carved drinking-horns, and a couple of powder flasks, which wethought would help to decorate a London hall. 

While at Bordeyri, we felt we were the subject of much amusement andadmiration among the little crowd of natives who flocked to see us, forming also, I doubt not, a topic of conversation among them for many aday to come. 

Our survey of the town was soon made, so we ordered ponies for a ride upcountry, this being the best way of passing our time. On the way we sawa number of large ravens; splendid birds they were and wonderfully tame;the ground was quite covered in places by flocks of them. 

Iceland boasts of a great variety of birds; in fact, they form anattraction to many English sportsmen to visit the Island. Both mybrother and A. L. T. Were sportsmen, but our time was too limited toadmit of the exercise of this taste. Among the birds may be noted swan, geese, duck, curlew, mallard, snipe, plover, ptarmigan, --90 species ofbirds, in fact, 54 of which are wildfowl. During our ride, A. L. T. Shota fine raven, and on our return to the ship, my brother skinned andstuffed it, as a memento of his inland trip. Many of the passengers wereso interested in his performance, that he was called on to deliver alecture on skinning and stuffing birds, and he explained how skilfullythis could be accomplished, with the help of a penknife alone. Onanother occasion, A. L. T. Caught a baby curlew as yet unable to fly, but the cries of the parents as they whirled round and round us seekingtheir offspring, were so heart-rending, that in sheer pity he placed thelittle thing back on the ground, where it was instantly joined by theold birds, who uttered cries of delight, which we continued hearinguntil we were well out of sight. 

There are great attractions for sportsmen in Iceland--reindeer shootingon the western side of the Island, whale and seal shooting, and salmonand trout fishing, the latter being met with in all the rivers. Indeedsome of the finest salmon fishing in the world is to be found here, andseveral Englishmen rent rivers, where they enjoy this sport everysummer; the life being free and independent, the expenses small, and thesport excellent, naturally form many attractions. At the same time, somuch netting and trapping of the fish goes on, there is everyprobability the salmon will be exterminated before long. 

Our ride out of Bordeyri was very interesting. There are some hotsprings on the east of the fjord, which are reached by boat, but whichwe had not time to visit. Had we remained longer, we should much haveliked to see the 'Anglica fish-lakes, ' but these were a full day'sjourney from Bordeyri, and quite out of our route. They are, we weretold, abundantly stocked with char, trout, and other good fish, andafford an excellent halting-place for sporting travellers. 

A part of our way lay along a peat-track, over which we raced ourponies, varying our exploits later amid bogs, which required the mostcareful riding to avoid a catastrophe. As usual, there were many riversto be forded, through which our ponies plodded up to their middles, never flinching even at the coldest glacial water. Often during ourrides, towards evening the cold became intense, although for a few hoursabout mid-day the sun was very hot. 

[Illustration: HRUTA FJORD, BORDERYRE, ICELAND, AUG. 11, 1886. _Etchedby Frank P. Fellows, from a sketch by the Author, 1888. _ _Page 86. _]

After some hours' riding, we arrived at another typical farm, which Isketched from my pony's back. The farm-house, and a small hamlet ofwooden huts which lay around it, formed a good foreground to the distantfjord. Dismounting, we entered the house by a low door, knocking ourheads against the rafters as we traversed a long dark passage which ledto the guest-chamber. This room, as usual, was neatly panelled withwood, and contained a bed, chairs, etc. , but, from the absence of freshair, was fearfully close. Our ride had sharpened our appetite, and we atonce produced our lunch supply, consisting of cheese and biscuits, etc. We offered some of the biscuits to the farmer, who at first turned themround and round in his hand suspiciously, then seeing that we ate themwith enjoyment, he raised one solemnly to his lips, tasted it, and thenspeedily devoured his share of the meal. In a short time all the variousmembers of the family joined us, and, _sans cérémonie_, proceeded toexamine our belongings. Pipes, match-boxes, watches, furs, and jewellerywere all passed in review, and we were asked the price of each article, and whether we had brought them out from England. Our table knivesseemed to cause them the greatest astonishment, and as the Sheffieldsteel glanced in the sun, they were quite childlike in their delight;certainly our English cutlery was a great contrast to the jagged ironknives which served them at table. In our turn, we admired their quaintold silver ornaments, but when we testified a desire to purchase, wefailed to meet with any response. 

We did not, as first proposed, remain the night at this farm, itsaccommodation not being sufficiently enticing, so our hostess was savedfulfilling the curious Icelandic custom considered a compliment tostrangers, of putting all her guests to bed herself, whether man orwoman, and not leaving the room until they were safely tucked up. Wecannot say, however, we encountered this form of hospitality ourselves, but we were told it was constantly carried out. 

As we sat round the table at our meal in this faraway region, so distantfrom all the trammels of Society, we wondered what expressions the facesof our London friends would have worn could they have seen our partypassing the only spoon available from one person to the other, occasionally even eating with our fingers. Certainly our surroundingswere much at variance with a well-appointed luncheon table, and yet weenjoyed ourselves all the more from its primitive simplicity. Lunchover, we prepared to continue our journey, but found our ponies hadwandered much further off than usual, and our guide went to seek them. 

The Icelander and his pony have initiated signs, which serves them inlieu of language. For instance, when the rider dismounts, and simplyleaves the reins over the animal's head, the latter knows that he willbe wanted again soon, and must not wander far off; if, on the otherhand, the bridle is left loose, the pony knows he may roam at will insearch of food until his master seeks him. 

We rode back to Bordeyri, which we reached in the evening, and againslept on board the _Camoens_. During our absence up country the previousday we heard that the ship's company had been in a great state ofexcitement, consequent on the embarkation of some forty emigrants fromBordeyri and its surrounding neighbourhood. We saw these ourfellow-passengers the next day, men, women, and children, many of theformer quite old, apparently not more than one in five appeared capableof a good day's work. These emigrants were bound for Manitoba andWinnipeg, in each of which places there is an Icelandic colony, andwhich settlements they could reach at a cost of £6, 10s. Per head. Poorthings! we wondered if they had taken into serious consideration thedifficulties that lay in their path in the New World they were seeking. Probably, considering the land they were leaving was one of volcanoesand desert wastes, they hoped for better things. Their Icelandic lifemust indeed be hard and colourless, so hard as to have taken from themall pleasure in existence. To judge by their apathy, these questions didnot seem to have been taken much into account by them; possibly when thesight of green fields, and Nature's abundance, break upon their view, dormant will, and energy may rise to fresh surroundings, and inspirethem with an impetus to work. 

Ah! speculate as we would upon their future, and probably we did so morethan they did themselves, all we could do for them was to wish themGod-speed and good luck in their venture. 

A bright 12th of August dawned at sea as we left the Hruta Fjord, andsteamed again towards the Arctic Circle and Cape North. When we met atbreakfast the conversation naturally turned upon grouse, and 12th ofAugust sport in general, and the gentlemen wished themselves inScotland, and exchanged their last year's experiences there. Iremembered mine also, for I was staying in a country house inLanarkshire, and some dozen men ready equipped for sport stood staringout of the windows of the breakfast-room, grumbling lustily at thepouring rain, and finally having to abandon their shooting expeditionfor the day, and content themselves with dancing Scotch reels, andotherwise amusing 'we girls, '--sorry consolation for the 12th of August!

The day wore on, and we had the unusual treat of a calm sea, but as thewind blew straight across from the ice regions, it was fearfully cold, pack-ice being seen in the distance, whilst an hour or so later we wereenveloped in a thick fog. 

The captain looked uneasy, as he had discerned ice ahead, and during hislast voyage this fog had betokened its dangerous proximity. To turn backnow and go round the Island to Reykjavik would be a serious loss oftime. We slackened speed, the fog-horn was blown, and several times thesailors took deep-sea soundings. 

[Illustration: Snaefell Jökull--Iceland--Aug 13. 1886, 11 P. M. Etched byFrank P Fellows from a sketch by the Author. 1888. ]

[Illustration: Reikjavik, Chief town of Iceland. Reduced & etched from aPhotograph by F. P. Fellows. 1888. ]

At dinner-time the captain handed me a parcel containing a tiny shelland a piece of coal black lava, drawn up from 66 fathoms of water S. -E. North Cape, and 27 miles from the same. Though only 10 miles from land, the fog so entirely hid the coast that we missed one of the prettiestviews of Iceland. 

The next day, however, was lovely, and under a cloudless blue sky thecoast-line showed to the greatest advantage. The sunset that night wasone of the finest I have ever seen. Snaefell Jökull, with its snowsummit, stood out against the most perfect sky, the colours deepeningfrom yellow to orange, and vermilion to carmine, and constantlychanging, like a kaleidoscope. 

At 11. 30 P. M. The sun had not set, but was illuminating the heavens withthe most gorgeous colouring, reminding one of the distant warmer regionsof the south, although at the same time the thermometer stood far belowfreezing point as we steamed within the Arctic Circle. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

REYKJAVIK. 

Reykjavik is the capital of Iceland. It has a population of about 4000, and is pleasantly situated on the shores of a small bay to the north ofa headland, which forms an excellent harbour. Several islands lie soclose to the shore that they can be reached on foot at low water. We hadanchored here at night, and when we left our berths in the morning, thetown looked quite imposing as compared with the smaller ones we hadalready seen. 

We were somewhat disappointed to hear from the captain that he could notremain a minute longer than four days at Reykjavik, possibly only threeand a half, during which time, in order to pay our visit to the Geysers(the chief attraction in our trip), we should be obliged to ride 160miles over very rough ground; and even calculating our riding powers at40 miles a day, no time would be left for contingencies, or a visit toHecla, which had been an object of our ambition. 

It was, however, a question of being contented to see what we could inthat time, or remaining in Iceland for the next steamer, a disaster wedid not look forward to at all, as we had heard of travellers who hadbeen left for weeks at Reykjavik, from failing to present themselves onboard at the appointed time. Vaughan and Mr Gordon were up early, andwent ashore before breakfast, carrying an introduction to 'Herr Zoega, 'the chief guide and pony owner in the capital; and they engaged for ourexcursion to the Geysers twenty good ponies and two guides, one of whomcould speak English, at the same time bringing back on board four packboxes to fill with eatables and such necessary clothing as we requiredfor the trip. These boxes we packed as tightly as possible, so as toprevent the things rattling about on the ponies' backs. They were about18 inches long, 12 deep, and some 8 inches wide, consequently thenecessary luggage for five of us quite filled two of them, notwithstanding that we took as little as possible. 

Our provender consisted of potted meats, half a ham, biscuits, beer, andwhisky, and with dinner utensils, such as enamelled metal plates, tumblers, knives, forks, etc. , from our luncheon basket, quite filledthe boxes. To carry one's own food on such an excursion is absolutelynecessary, unless you can live on coffee and skyr. 

When calculating the number of ponies to be hired, you must allow twoper head, whether for riders or for luggage, as from the rough nature ofthe ground the animals soon tire, and frequent changes are necessary. 

A tent had also to be sought for and hired, and while this was beingfound, and our ponies laden, and rugs and mackintoshes strapped on toour riding steeds, we were told by our guide that at least two hoursmust elapse before they would be ready for us to start, so we decided tosee what we could of the town meanwhile. 

The principal buildings--none of which were of any architecturalbeauty--were the Cathedral, the Senate House, the Hospital, and theCollege. 

I must not forget to mention the Gaol, the only one in the Island. It isunlike any other I ever heard of, as it very rarely has an inmate!Honesty amongst the people themselves is wonderful, and murder is almostunknown. 

Near the Cathedral, on a grassy space in the centre of the town, stood amonument to Albert Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, who was of Icelandicdescent, although, I believe, claimed by Denmark, as one of her giftedsons. Reykjavik also boasts a small Antiquarian Museum, which, strangeto say, is to be found in the Senate House, and for the size of the town(4000 inhabitants) there is a good Free Library, in a loft under theroof of the Cathedral. 

We were pointed out a really interesting sight in the Cathedral-a rudewooden crucifix, which had been discovered in a lava cave, and isbelieved to be a Chaldean relic. There was also a collection of 13thcentury ecclesiastical garments and enamelled crucifixes. In theadjoining Museum we saw a number of weapons of war dating from the 4thcentury, as well as rare old drinking-cups of walrus ivory, beautifullycarved, and some old-fashioned tapestry. Some of the old silverornaments were really quaint, and the carving on the flat-irons muchinterested me, as I had never seen so many or such fine ones before. 

In the library is the first Bible printed in Iceland, at Holar, in 1584;also a very curious work on 'Magic;' two old versions of the NewTestament, dated 1540; whilst its shelves boasted quite a largecollection of modern works on all subjects. 

There are two small inns in the town, as well as a club house, postoffice, and stores, besides a druggist, a photographer, and two or threesilversmiths. As to vehicles, there were none, and the silence of thestreets reminded one of Venice. 

Tradition says that the town was founded in 877, by one 'Tugolfi, ' aNorse settler. The early Icelandic settlers are reputed to have had acurious mode of determining the spot on which they should build theirhomes. On approaching the coast, the head of a family threw overboardthe pillars on which the seat of honour in his former home had beenraised, and wherever these pillars floated ashore, there he believed thegods of his ancestors wished him to erect his new dwelling-place. 

Tugolfi's high seat pillars had drifted into 'Reykjavik Bay, 'consequently he there took up his abode, and thus laid the foundation ofthe only prosperous town in Iceland. 

Our time was too limited to visit many stores in Reykjavik in search ofcurios, but being possessed with the idea that some good old silverarticles were to be obtained here, we tried our best to find them. Butthe idea turned out to be an illusion, for after inquiring at three ofthe shops, the only things we succeeded in finding were two silverbuckles, for which, after much bargaining, we paid 39s. Each; certainlynot cheap, but they served us as mementoes of Reykjavik. 

We had brought ashore a parcel of letters, which we carried to the postoffice for despatch, but learnt that they would go no sooner thanourselves in the _Camoens_. As there was a great possibility of our notreturning from our trip to the Geysers in time to catch the steamer, weleft our letters, in order that folks at home might receive some news ofus if we failed to reappear at the appointed time, and suggested thereinwe might be detained. In such a case, we should have been obliged towait for a Danish boat, which would touch at the capital in about afortnight's time. 

While we were gleaning this information, Vaughan had been asked by aScotchman (the husband of our ship's companion in the brown silk) to goand see his son. He and the boy had ridden from Akureyri to Reykjavik, while we steamed round the Island. The poor boy, while resting his ponynear the mud springs, had run off to see them nearer, when suddenly theearth gave way, and one leg was in boiling mud to the knee, and theother immersed above the ankle. Luckily his father was near, andextricated him; but for that, and the fact of his wearing high ridingboots, he might have been burnt to death, or lamed for life--as it was, the boiling mud had burnt the boots through before they could be pulledoff, and the knee above had been severely hurt. Nothing could be donebut ride on, and the brave little chap managed to stick on his pony, although in awful pain, until he reached home a day and a half later. 

My brother suggested all he could think of to alleviate his suffering, and, when we returned from the Geysers, had the pleasure of finding hislittle patient very much better, though likely to remain a cripple for aconsiderable length of time. 

At a bookseller's in Reykjavik, we procured an Icelandic translation ofan English book by one of our standard authors, selecting it from anumber of well-known works, such as Shakespear, Scott, Byron, DeanStanley, John Stuart Mill, George Eliot, etc. , all of which stood inlong rows, translated into the Norse tongue. We also carried off a neatlittle Icelandic newspaper, printed in the capital; but, unfortunately, not one of our party could decipher its contents. 

This little newspaper had been printed after our arrival in the_Camoens_, and furnished the only news the Icelanders had of the outsideworld since the advent of a Danish ship a fortnight previously. Icelandhas not yet been annexed by cable, and knows nothing of the marvellousscientific invention which now flashes news so quickly round our world. 

The hour was now approaching when our caravan was to make its start forthe Geysers, so we returned to the town. Here the landlord's daughter, at our request, exhibited herself in her _fête_ attire, in which shemade a quaint and pretty picture. The dress consisted of athickly-pleated black silk skirt, very full and somewhat short, embroidered round the bottom with a deep band of gold thread; a blackbodice, also similarly embroidered with gold down the front and roundthe collar; a handsome necklet and girdle of silver gilt, and a highhead-dress of white muslin, in appearance resembling a Normandy cap. This, she told us, she always wore on Sundays and great occasions, dressing like an Englishwoman on week days. 

We found our ponies all in readiness at the appointed hour, and ourexcitement may be imagined when we caught sight of our cavalcade, withits appendages, drawn up in order before the so-called hotel, for ourformer excursions were as nothing compared to the undertaking which nowlay before us, and we realised that all our energy would be required forthe enterprise. 

Behold our party, then. Two ladies and three gentlemen; two guides, onebeing employed as pony-driver; seven ponies for riding, and seven forchanging on the road; three pack ponies, two laden with our luggage, andone with tents; and three unladen ponies for exchange weights: twentyin all, a goodly company of quadrupeds, well selected and sure-footed. The ponies, too, besides being picked ones for the work, were well'trapped, ' and newly shod, with the saddles, girths, straps, and bucklesall in order. So at least 'Zoega' told us, with an assurance that wemight depend on his forethought, adding that if we ladies could reallyaccomplish the 160 miles' ride in three and a half days, his poniesshould not be found lacking, but he had never yet known any lady do itunder five, and he did not think we knew what rough riding lay beforeus. Miss T---- and myself, not daunted by the difficulties presented, made up our minds, if possible, to compass the ride, see the 'Geysers, 'and be back at Reykjavik in time to catch the steamer, for we had nomind to be left in Iceland another fortnight; so we laughingly toldZoega we would show him what English ladies could do in the way ofriding, and he might expect to see us back on the appointed day. 

Up we all mounted, to the amusement of the crowd, which had collectedround the cavalcade. The words, 'Are you ready?' were quickly answeredby 'Yes;' but when one of the bye-standers saw we ladies were furnishedonly with men's saddles, there was quite a commotion. 'The ladies willnever be able to ride all that way in that fashion; only native womencan ride so, not real ladies, ' and so terrible did they make out theprospect of the road, that we were persuaded to take two wretchedlyuncomfortable side-saddles with us as far as Thingvalla, which we neverused, far preferring our own arrangement. 

That start from Reykjavik was a memorable one. It was a gloriousmorning, the outcome of a splendid sunset the previous night, and theair so genial and warm that for the first time since we set foot on theIsland we dispensed with our furs. 

A picturesque party we made as we rode on our way towards Thingvalla, astretch of seven hours' hard riding, one of the guides and Vaughandriving before them the thirteen loose ponies. These were not attachedto each other, but followed the leader, and went very well, only now andthen one or two strayed from the path, when down jumped the guide, ranafter them, and with a curious shriek brought them back in line. Ourguides were most dexterous riders, and proved also most kind andattentive. Their names were Signithur Sigurthsen and Jon Eriksen. We hadbeen cautioned that if treated with hauteur the guides often becamesullen, whilst kindness ensured their devotion and courtesy, and as wenever tried the former tone, we were capital friends with them. 

The guide-books had led us to believe that after we had left Reykjavik amile or so we should find no roads whatever. This is strictly true, asthere are no made roads, but here and there we came across longstretches of level land and peat, where we could get really a goodgallop, whilst on the other hand there were many parts of our routewhere no beast could go faster than a walk, and others which only a muleor an Icelandic pony could compass. 

A road or bridle path is being constructed between Akureyri andReykjavik, and some 20 miles is already roughly made, although it willprobably take years to complete. 

Herr Zoega had certainly been as good as his word, and supplied us withexcellent ponies, some of which excelled in trotting, some in cantering, and others in pacing, but the latter motion was very trying, and Ialways objected to mounting those which had been trained to pace. 

The Icelandic fashion of making the pony go fast is to kick its sideincessantly with the legs, which a native does for hours together, andso accustomed is the pony to this 'clapping, ' that he slackens his paceas soon as it ceases. 

The scenery along our route was in many parts very fine and wild in theextreme, huge boulders of lava and rock intersecting our path, andstanding like massive ruins on either side, the lava having evidentlycooled down in an almost liquid state, and presenting a most uncannyappearance. 

Professor Geikie, speaking of the Icelandic volcanoes, says, --

'On several occasions the ashes have fallen so thickly between theOrkneys and Shetlands that vessels passing there have had the unwonteddeposit shovelled off their decks in the mornings. In the year 1783, during the memorable eruption of Skaptar-Jökull (80 miles east ofHecla), so vast an amount of fine dust was ejected, that the atmosphereover Iceland continued loaded with it for months afterwards. It fell insuch quantities over parts of Caithness--a distance of 600 miles--as todestroy the crops. That year is still spoken of by the inhabitants asthe year of "the ashie. " Traces of the same deposit have been observedin Norway, and even as far as Holland. ' . . . 

The most stupendous outpouring of lava on record was that which tookplace from the Skaptar-Jökull. 

'Preceded by violent earthquakes all along the southern coast, it burstout with great fury, drying up the river in twenty-four hours, andfilling its bed. The lava in some places was 600 feet deep and 200 wide, flowing like a mighty river towards the sea, wrapping whole districts inflames, re-melting old lavas, opening subterranean caverns, one of itsstreams reaching the ocean. It was in full activity for two and a halfmonths, and did not entirely cease for six months. 

'It took the lava more than two years to cool. One stream was 50 mileslong, 12 to 15 broad on the plain, and from 1 to 600 feet deep; anotherwas 40 miles long, and 7 wide. Pasture lands 100 miles around weredestroyed by the pumice sand and ashes. The matter ejected has beenestimated as twice the volume of Mount Hecla, or one hundred thousandmillions cubic yards, probably as large as any single mass of the olderigneous rocks known to exist--according to Bischoff, greater than thebulk of Mount Blanc. 

'Man, his cattle, houses, churches and grass lands were burnt up, noxious vapours filled the air, and the earth was shrouded by clouds ofashes. ' . . . 

A few instances of the actual outbreak of a submarine eruption have beenwitnessed. In the early summer of 1783 a volcanic eruption took placeabout 30 miles from Cape Reykjanaes, on the west coast. An island wasthrown up from which fire and smoke continued to issue, but in less thana year the waves had washed the loose pumice away, leaving a submergedreef from 5 to 30 fathoms below sea level. About a month later followedthe frightful outbreak of Skaptar-Jökull, a distance of nearly 200 milesfrom this submarine vent. 

The bluest of skies was above our heads, and the atmosphere so clear wecould see objects many miles distant, among them 'Hecla, ' whose snowycap glistened like silver in the sun. 

The air was so pure and invigorating, that it acted like champagne onall our party, and we were in the highest spirits. About every two hourswe halted and gave our ponies a brief rest, letting them nibble theshort grass near, when any such was to be found, then changing oursaddles to the backs of the reserve animals we started afresh, the wildmountain paths becoming steeper and rougher as we advanced. 

We had only passed two farms on our way, and our guide informing usthere was not another for many miles, feeling very hungry after our longmorning's ride, we dismounted by the side of a babbling brook for lunch, and did full justice to the ham and tinned beef we had brought fromLondon with us. While eating our meal, our twenty ponies were allowed towander at will with the reins thrown over their heads, and had therebeen any passers-by we might have been taken for a gipsy encampment. 

Luncheon over, everything had to be washed, and securely packed, butdespite all our previous care we found some of our china had been sorelysmashed, and the biscuits shaken to perfect powder. 

Our guides shared our repast, respectfully taking their seats at alittle distance from us, and their delight at tasting our tinned beefand mustard entertained us greatly. The latter stung poor Jon's mouthtill the tears ran down his cheeks, but, nothing daunted, he perseveredin taking the condiment, till he grew so fond of it as to ask for itwith every kind of food, even spreading it on an Albert biscuit. 

Hitherto our path had wound over a range of hills amid which we sawseveral small lakes, and the view looking westward towards 'SnaefellJökull, ' which rises like a pyramid of ice from the sea, was charming. Our lunch had been taken in the valley of the 'Seljadalr, ' and now oncemore in our saddles, we followed a bridle-path upwards towards theplateau of 'Mosfellshei, ' passing through a wild rocky glen of greatnatural beauty. The 'Mosfellshei' is a long, stony, dreary waste, several miles in length, so wild and rough as to render riding no easytask, the path leading through dreary tracks of lava, over which theponies stepped with cat-like agility, hardly if ever stumbling, andgoing up and down hill as easily as on level ground. After two hours ormore of this rough riding, suddenly, at a bend of the hill, we came uponour first view of Thingvalla Lake, and were charmed with it and thesurrounding country. It was like going out of a desert into fairyland. The lake, which is 45 miles long, and of a deep cobalt blue, can be seenonly in part, as the hills around project to such an extent as toapparently divide the water into a series of lakes, instead of one broadexpanse. It was a glorious day with a bright warm sun, and a clear bluesky, and everything around looked fair and peaceful. We were sodelighted with the spot, that we stopped to make sketches, allowing thepack ponies to get ahead of us. 

Not long after remounting and calmly jogging on our way, we suddenlycame upon the verge of a tremendous chasm, which, opening at our feet, divided the barren ground on which we stood, from a lovely sunlit plainof many miles in extent. Winding our way down, we entered the Almannagyaby a narrow fissure. The path leads for nearly a mile, the rocks risingas perpendicular walls on either side from 80 to 100 feet; so narrow wasit in some places that there was little more than room for the path. Inother places where it widened, patches of snow still remained. 

Here was indeed a halting-place full of interest, and we accordinglydismounted, and prepared to spend some time in lionising a spot soreplete with historic records. 

Running parallel were two or three such chasms, of minor magnitude, overthe less steep parts of which we managed to scramble, before remountingour ponies, which it was necessary to do, although Thingvalla Farm laybut a few yards distant, because of the intervening river, which we hadto ford. 

CHAPTER IX. 

THINGVALLA. 

Independently of the beauty and natural curiosities of the spot, Thingvalla is so associated with the early history of the Norse people, its government and its laws, that it deserves a longer notice here thanhas been given to any other of our halting-places. 

We had descended into the 'Almannagja' by a steep rocky causeway madebetween cloven rocks, and reached the narrow islet where, in times goneby, when feudal despotism was the only government acknowledged, thechiefs of the Island met to regulate the affairs of state. Whenever itmight have been that the volcanic eruption which had shivered the rocksinto their present fissured condition had occurred, it had left thisspot so surrounded by deep crevices as to render it impregnable, save bythe rude causeway which connected it with the exterior level. This plainwas, as already recorded, chosen by the founders of the first Icelandicparliament for their sittings. At the upper end of the plain, we wereshown the stone seats which the principal legislators and judgesoccupied during their deliberations. Not far from here lies also the'Logberg, ' or 'law rock, ' a large mound from whence the laws wereproclaimed or judgments given to the people who assembled on the outsideslope of the eastern wall of the rift, in view of the proceedings below. Our notice was likewise directed to the 'blood stone, ' on which, forcertain offences, the criminals were condemned to have their backsbroken, after which barbarous punishment they were hurled backwards, andfell into the chasm below. 

In Lord Dufferin's 'Letters from High Latitudes, ' he thus describes thisspot:--

'Long ago--who shall say how long--some vast commotion had shaken thefoundations of the Island, and bubbling up from sources far away amidthe inland hills, a fiery deluge must have rushed down between theirridges, until, escaping from the narrower gorges, it found space tospread itself into one broad sheet of molten stone over an entiredistrict of country, reducing its varied surface to one vast blackenedlevel. 

'One of two things must then have occurred, either the vitrified mass, contracting as it cooled--the centre area of fifty square miles musthave burst asunder at either side from the adjoining plateau, and sunkdown to its present level--leaving the two parallel gorges, or chasms, which form its lateral boundaries, to mark the limits of the disruption;or else, while the lava was still in a fluid state, its upper surfacebecame solid, and formed a roof beneath, while the mother streamflowing on to lower levels, left a vast cavern into which the uppercrust subsequently plumped down "and formed this level plain. "'

For three hundred years did the little republic of Iceland hold theirparliaments within this romantic precinct, three hundred years ofremarkable independence, but during which period Paganism and spiritualdarkness prevailed throughout the Island. In the organisation of thefirst 'Althing, ' priestly power predominated, no less than thirty-ninepriests having seats. During the early settlement of Iceland, the landwas divided into four quarters, each quarter sending its quota ofpriests to parliament, while each priest thus nominated a member of theAlthing, was accompanied by two retainers, or assessors, as they weretermed. Inclusive of the President, the Log-men, and its numeroussacerdotal representatives, the members of the Althing are said to havenumbered 145 persons. 

As we stood by these time-honoured rocks, where in long ages pastancient Norse chieftains had promulgated their laws, we tried to conjureup the scene, --the rocky entrance to this weird spot, guarded bystalwart Norsemen, the stern senators and law-makers sitting in deepthought, or occupied in stormy debate, while the crowd of interestedspectators looked down from the stony platform above. We wondered thatalthough these grand old times of feudalism had passed away, noenterprising artist had been found to transfer to canvas an historicrecord of such deep interest, and thus make the scene live again inmodern times. 

It was in the year 1000, on the 4th of June, that Iceland abandonedPaganism, and accepted Christianity. This great change was principallybrought about through the instrumentality of a Pagan priest namedSnorri, who, while travelling in Christian lands, had been converted, and on his return had pressed his new convictions on the people ofIceland. Many of these accepting his tenets caused quite a division inthe Island, and the Althing was summoned to take into consideration thenew views which had been introduced. 

Snorri was invited to address the assembly, and explain the principlesof his new-found faith. The members of the Althing listened with greatattention, evidently much impressed with what they heard, for Snorrispoke with the enthusiastic zeal of a fresh convert. 

There were not wanting, however, those among the representatives whoresented the introduction into the Island of this new belief, hence thedebate, so records the 'Njol-Saga, ' waxed warm, when a messenger rushedin and disturbed the council by the alarming news that a stream of lavahad burst out at Olfas, and that the priest's dwelling would soon beoverrun. On this one of the heathen opponents to Christianity remarked, 'No wonder the gods exhibit their wrath, when such speeches as we havejust heard against their power have been permitted. ' On this Snorri withgreat dignity rose up, saying, as he pointed to the riven rocks anddeep fissures around them, 'At what then were the gods wroth when thislava was molten and overran the whole district upon which we now stand?'To this speech there was no reply, for all well knew that the plain wasone of the most remarkable lava tracks in the Island. 

It is presumed that Snorri's remark told, and his persuasive eloquencewon the day, for shortly after, the Icelanders in a body acceptedChristianity as their national faith, and this apparently without eitherbloodshed or quarrelling. 

In the 'Saga' mention is made of many remarkable sittings and debateswhich took place within the Althing, some of which ended in suchanimosity between individual members as to be the cause of party feudsand bloodshed. 

In connection with the deep rifts which encompass the Althing, aromantic story is told. A Norseman called Flossi, a leader of someconspiracy in the Island, was condemned to death; he evaded thissentence by taking a leap from the blood stone, on which he stood, across the adjoining rift, a feat neither his accusers nor condemnerswere likely to imitate, and one inspired only by his extreme peril. 

In 1800 the Althing was abolished, Iceland having fallen under Danishgovernment; it was re-established again in 1843, but only in a veryrestricted form, its legislation being cramped in every way by Danishsupremacy. In 1845 the romantic precinct where the Icelanders heldtheir parliament was abandoned, and the legislative body was removed tothe capital of Reykjavik. 

In the 'National Encyclopædia, ' we found the following note in referenceto the new constitution granted to the Icelanders, --

'In 1874, on the occasion of the millennial jubilee of the Island'scolonisation, the King of Denmark visited Iceland, and conferred uponhis subjects there a new and very liberal constitution, most of itsarticles being moulded upon the Danish charter of 1849. It conceded toIceland, in all matters concerning the Island, its own independentlegislation and administration, superintended by an assembly, the newAlthing consisting of thirty-six members--thirty elected by popularsuffrage, and six nominated by the King. It put at the head of thecountry's affairs a minister named by the King, and residing inCopenhagen, but responsible to the Althing, and exercising his functionsthrough a local governor residing at Reykjavik. It also fully guaranteedthe independence of the tribunals, individual freedom, liberty of faith, of the press, of public meetings, the individuality of property, theself-government of principalities, and the equality of all citizensbefore the law. '

As will clearly be seen, this is a case of Home Rule, though theIcelanders are still in a measure under the Danish Government;apparently much the same kind of legislature as Mr Gladstone is soanxious to confer upon Ireland. The present Althing or Parliament hastwo Houses--an Upper and Lower House; there are twelve members in theformer, and twenty-four in the latter. They must all be Icelanders, andusually they sit for about six years. We peeped into the ParliamentHouse during the short time we were in Reykjavik; it was then sitting, but much as I should like to have remained and listened to theproceedings, the odours in the gallery in which we were placed forbadeit. The impression it made upon me was that it resembled a small Englishlaw-court, the governor sitting in uniform at the head of the Council. 

Certainly the ancient mode of transacting affairs of state was a farmore interesting one, and the precincts of its primitive ParliamentHouse and law-courts were unrivalled in their rocky architecture andromantic scenery. 

Not far from the Almannagya is a very picturesque fall, formed by thewaters of the 'Oxara, ' which leap in a single bound from an elevationwest of the 'Thingfields, ' or 'speaking-place' into the 'Almannagya, 'flowing through a gap in the rocks, and again leaping into the plainbelow, forming a large pool. 

In this pool it is said in olden times women convicted of witchcraft orinfanticide used to be drowned. 

Altogether the halt we made at the Thingfields interested us deeply, andthe landscape was charming in the extreme. High mountains guard threesides of the plain; among these we had pointed out to us the 'SularRange, ' the dark peaks of the 'Armammsfell, ' and the lower ridge of the'Jornkliff, ' below, on the north-east of the snow-capped 'Skjaldbreid, 'and the peaks of 'Tindjjalla-jökull' with the more distant 'Langjökull'sparkling like silver. South-west of the lake there is another group ofmountains seen, from one of which--Hengill--a cloud of steam ascends, itbeing evidently volcanic. Among the rocks of the 'Almannagya' we sawsome pretty mountain sheep grazing, the only sign of life in this wildregion. The Icelandic sheep are very small, and we noticed often wanderin pairs, one black and one white: they mostly have horns; the wool ofthe white sheep is spotless. There are plenty of sheep in the Island, and it is for them as much as the ponies that the grass is cut, dried, and stacked under such woeful disadvantages and in such a marvellouslypainstaking manner. 

Leaving the rift, and crossing over a small river, we arrived at thedoor of Thingvalla Parsonage. Here it was arranged we were to pass thenight. The farms and inns are so few and far between in Iceland, thatthe parsonages are thrown open for the accommodation of travellers. Formerly the wooden benches of the Thingvalla Church itself used to beconverted into sleeping-berths; travellers, however, behaved soindecorously within the sacred walls, that the Bishop forbade thefurther use of the edifice for this purpose. The church, a simple woodenbuilding, is surrounded by a graveyard, a few iron crosses marking someof the graves. The pulpit dates from 1683, and there is an ancientaltar-piece of the Last Supper. The so-called village of Thingvallaconsists merely of the church, the parsonage, and a few outhouses forstoring winter supplies. When we arrived at the parsonage, we learntthat the clergyman was absent, --further, that a party of travellers fromour ship had arrived a few hours before us, and had engaged rooms, theonly remaining accommodation being two very small bedrooms, and onesitting-room. To Miss T. And myself was assigned the clergyman's ownbedroom. This contained the smallest bed I have ever seen, and having tobe made available for two persons, we did not pass a very comfortablenight. The only luxury in the room was a well-stored bookcase containingmany standard works in various languages. Our three gentlemen occupiedthe remaining bed and sitting-room. 

[Illustration: THINGVALLA PARSONAGE, ICELAND, AUG. 14, 1886. _Etched byF. P. Fellows, from a sketch by the Author, 1888. _ _Page 114. _]

We ascertained that the party who had preceded us consisted of sevenmen, who having only one bedroom and a small sitting-room, had most ofthem to sleep on the floor rolled up in their rugs. These men itappeared were not accustomed to the saddle, and having ridden fortymiles on the day they arrived at the parsonage, found themselves sostiff on the morrow as to be barely able to continue their journey;indeed, two of their party gave in, and never reached the 'Geysers' atall. 

Among the ancient curios of the Thingvalla Parsonage was an oldgrinding-machine, such as one reads of in the Bible; at this a girl satturning its stone wheel with her hand, whilst the corn thus convertedinto flour fell into a receptacle below. In all the domesticarrangements Icelanders are very primitive, but this operation was, Ithink, about the most so of any I witnessed. A large jar containing riceattracted my attention, and curiously enough the rice was not to eat butto make poultices of, instead of linseed. We found the commissariat atthe parsonage at a very low ebb; in fact, nothing but coffee and skyrwere procurable; and but for our provision of tinned meats we shouldhave fared badly. 

We could not even procure white bread, simply the black 'pumpernickel'bread so much prized in Germany. Vaughan persuaded a man to go to thelake and secure us some fish for the next morning's breakfast; this hedid, and returned with some excellent pink trout, and yellow char, whichwe much enjoyed. 

No one at Thingvalla Parsonage could speak English, and we had greatdifficulty in making ourselves understood; our guides, however, waitedupon us as servants, and were very handy. After breakfast, we remountedand set out on our way to the Geysers, where we hoped to strike our campthat night. Our guide-books had led us to expect that the scenery ofthis ride would surpass all we had yet seen, and we certainly found itdid so. Within an hour's ride of Thingvalla we reached the Hrafragja, another lava plain, though not so wide or long as the Almannagya, butwhich is crossed by an improvised road formed of blocks of lava. Ourpath led us past an extinct crater, which, from the curious form andemissions, had long puzzled geologists: it was called a Tintron. 

[Illustration: PONIES SWIMMING ACROSS LAKE. ]

This lava spout resembled the trunk of an old tree, and during aneruption the liquid flame soared through it high into the air, likewater does from a hose or fire-engine. This curious volcanic spout isnot the only one in the Island; further north there are several, somereaching as much as 30 feet in height. One curious thing in our 80miles' journey to the Geysers was the number of rivers we crossed, seldom very deep, but some sufficiently so to necessitate lifting ourfeet from the stirrups, and laying them on the pony's back as high aspossible to avoid a wetting. 

One of the rivers had so many turns that we crossed and recrossed itabout twenty times. The low-lying land around being all bog, it wasnecessary to keep our ponies to the comparatively firm shingle on theriver side. 

An abrupt ascent, long and steep, formed a pleasant change to themonotony of the rugged plain. Up this 'berg' our ponies wound their wayzigzag between the rough boulders of rock which strewed the path. At thetop we met several men with their train of ponies, waiting for us topass them, the path being only wide enough for single file. Here wewaited to give the ponies breath, and admired the view, which waswonderfully extensive. The road up looked like a ladder, so steep wasit, and we wondered how the ponies could have climbed it at all. 

The Icelanders are a very polite race; nearly every man you meet takesoff his cap and salutes you. When meeting friends, they pull off theirright hand glove and shake hands heartily. In Iceland, as elsewhere onthe Continent, they also pass on the left side; indeed, I believe weEnglish are the only nation who pass on the near side or right hand. 

We halted for luncheon at a small cave, just such a place as one mightexpect to find Runic remains, but there were none, so we contentedourselves with eating chocolate, and letting the ponies enjoy a littlegrass. This cave, like many others in the Island, was used in winter asa sheep pen, the poor brutes being huddled together to prevent theirbeing frozen to death during the long winter nights. 

From here we galloped merrily on for some distance; at last we calledeach other's attention to an extraordinary yellow haze, like a band ofLondon fog, across the horizon. Thicker and thicker it became: and as itrolled towards us, we realised we had encountered a regular dust-storm. Into it we rode: so thick in fact did it become, that by the time wereached the Geysers all around was hidden in yellow sand, and our eyeswere filled with dust, until the tears streamed down and we were nearlyblinded. It whirled round and round in its storm fury, until we werehalf-choked, two of our party getting very bad sore throats, produced bythe irritation of the dust, as it filled eyes, nose, and mouth. Itpowdered our hair also to a yellow grey, but our faces, what a sightthey were! The tears had run down, making little streams amid the dust, and certainly we were hardly recognisable to one another. Thesedust-storms are somewhat uncommon, but proceed, in certain winds, from alarge sand desert. 

We pulled up at some hot springs within a few feet of the lake, whichwere smoking and steaming to the height of several feet, and fallingdown again formed numerous boiling pools. In these we put our fingers, but pulled them out quickly. Next we inserted the handles of ourriding-whips: the brass bands round them turning mauve and violet fromthe sulphur and alum in the water; but this pretty effect soon wore off. The colour of the water and deposit round the edges of this pool werevery pretty, and the bubbles as they ascended took the most lovelycolours--emerald, purple, etc. , turning into aqua-marine before breakingon the surface; but the odour was like terribly bad eggs. These hotsprings are a curious freak of Nature, boiling and bubbling up withinthree feet of a cold water lake; in fact, we sat down and placed onehand in cold water and the other in hot. This was a very curiousexperience. 

Two hours' further riding through a tract covered with willow and birchscrub, and we arrived at the 'Bruara' river. When this river is low, itcan be crossed by a rudely-constructed bridge, with strong iron-clampedhand-rails on either side; but during floods it is impassable, asseveral feet above the waters form a roaring cataract, when travellershave to be ferried across, at a higher point. 

On we rode still through the dust-storm, over lava fields, rugged andrough in the extreme, and most weird-looking from their blackness. Wepassed several paths which our guide told us led into the interior ofthe Island, where there are still large unexplored tracts, lying at thebase of a range of high snow mountains, called 'Jökull, ' most of themsupposed to be volcanic, but of which little is really known. 

We were all getting very tired as we neared the end of our second day'sride; tired and dirty, for the sand-storm still continued. Fresh impetuswas given to our ride, however, by overtaking one of the miserable partyof five who had preceded us by two hours from Thingvalla. He was walkingdejectedly beside his pony, too great a sufferer from inexperiencedriding to remount. 

Being inspired with ambition to be first in the field, we galloped pasthim and his companions one by one, and A. L. T. And I had the excitementof finishing our race to the Geysers. 

CHAPTER X. 

THE GEYSERS. 

We had been told at Reykjavik it was necessary to carry tents, as therewas no accommodation for travellers at the Geysers, but on arriving thewind was so strong that there was considerable difficulty in pitchingthem, and while our guides and gentlemen friends were making theattempt, we ladies tied up some tea in a muslin bag, and put it into akettle, which we filled at the nearest hot spring. In a very few minutesit was infused, and with thick cream procured from the neighbouringfarm, we enjoyed it much after our long dusty ride. 

Just as the tent had been, as my brother thought, securely fixed, andwhile Vaughan and Mr Gordon were inside arranging the rugs andpack-boxes as seats, unfortunately a fresh gust of wind brought thewhole affair down, burying them under the ruin. Our guides hastened tothe rescue, and, more experienced in the weather forecasts than theywere, advised their waiting till the wind had subsided before attemptingto put up the tent again. To take our tea sitting on the pack-boxes wasall we could do, encouraging each other to patience. We dare not openour boxes of eatables till the storm had subsided, or at least until wehad some shelter to protect them from a deposit of dust. 

After tea we proceeded to make our inspection of the Geysers. Our firstneed was, however, to wash our hands and faces, so, armed with towels, sponges, and soap, we knelt at the brink of the nearest pool, andstooping down performed our ablutions, with our faces towards the east, our persons being reflected in the clear green water. We could but likenourselves to Mahommedans, when they turn their faces towards Kibla, atMecca, or Parsees when they kneel facing the sun, which is considered bythem a representative of God. 

The immediate neighbourhood of the Geysers is not pretty; hills rise onone side, but otherwise they lie in a plain, which, when we saw it onour first arrival, was so thickly covered with sand from the storm thatwe could hardly discern any separate object. We hastened to examine thegreat Geyser. Alas! it did not, and would not play; it had done so twodays previously, and we were told it was expected to renew the exploit, but, to our great mortification, it failed to do so during our visit. One of the peculiarities of this natural phenomenon is that sometimes atintervals of only a few hours it will eject columns of boiling water tothe height of 100 feet, at others it will remain silent for daystogether. In 1770 it is recorded that this Geyser spouted eleven timesin one day. Disappointed at losing the sight we had come so far to see, we turned our attention to the 'Stroker, ' which is situated about 90feet from its bigger neighbour. This also seemed in a quiescent state, but as the 'Stroker' can always be made to play by filling up theopening with earth sods, until there is no hole for the steam to escape, and it vomits the whole mass with a gigantic spout, we requested ourguides to arrange for this artificial display. The emetic wasconsequently administered. 'Stroker' was evidently sulky, for theprocess had to be gone through no less than four times, whilst we waitedthe result in patience for at least two hours; but the display was allthe better when it came. 

[Illustration: STROKER IN ERUPTION. ]

I said we waited in patience, which was hardly true, as we were all onthe tiptoe of excitement. Continual false alarms, and we all rushed tothe 'Stroker's' side, only to be again disappointed, so we unpacked ourgoods, and made preparations for our evening meal, examining the GreatGeyser and the hot springs meanwhile, grumbled at the smell of sulphur, and nearly despaired of the eruption ever taking place, when a suddenstart from our guides, who were standing on the edge of the crater, anda shriek from them, 'He comes!' and a huge column of water ascendedstraight into the air for about 60 feet, the spray being ejected to aconsiderable distance. The eruption was accompanied by a rumbling noiseand a hissing sound, as the shafts of water ascended. 

We stood and watched the effect a few feet distant merely from thisboiling column, feeling the rumbling distinctly under our feet and asthe wind blew the steam back, it fell like rain, quite cold, but withsufficient force to wet us uncomfortably. 

This great fountain display continued in full force a quarter of anhour; then the column gradually got smaller, though steam and waterissued from its mouth for a full half-hour before it quite subsided. Itwas a splendid spectacle, and one which left a great impression on ourminds; the height of the column was fully 60 feet, and even after it hadsubsided, we remained some time in contemplation of its cause andeffect. 

Speaking of Geysers, Professor Geikie says, --

'Eruptive formations of hot water and steam, to which the general nameof Geyser (_i. E. _, gusher) is given from the examples in Iceland, whichwere the first to be seen and described, mark a declining phase ofvolcanic activity. . . . It is from irregular tube-like excrescences thatthe eruptions take place. The term Geyser is restricted to activeopenings whence columns of hot water and steam are from time to timeejected; the non-eruptive pools are only hot springs. A true Geysershould thus possess an underground pipe or passage, terminating at thesurface in an opening built round with deposits of sinter. At more orless regular intervals, rumblings and sharp detonations in the pipe arefollowed by an agitation of water in the basin, and then the violentexpulsion of a column of water and steam to a considerable height in theair. '

Dr Samuel Kneeland, in his interesting book on Iceland, says, --

'There are two kinds of Geysers, one having jets of clear water, theother puffs of scalding vapour, coming up through a soft mud or clay ofa reddish colour, probably from iron salts. In the water silica is heldin solution by salts of soda, a silicate of soda being the chiefingredient. They are said to have great remediable powers; but, judgingfrom the facility with which objects are encrusted by their silicates, it would seem as if their free use would soon turn a person to stone. . . . The geyserite, or the solid incrustations, is over 80° of silica, with3° alumina, and a little magnesia, iron, potash, and soda. '

One thing I looked for in vain at these Geysers, namely, thepretty-coloured mud which is found at the Yellowstone Park of America, and which I had often heard my father and brother describe. In NewZealand the Geyser mud was formerly used by the Maoris as a kind ofporridge, which they were very fond of. It is a pity the starvingIcelanders cannot do likewise. 

I wish our party could have been photographed as it stood round the'Stroker, ' waiting for the display, everybody's face a picture ofexpectation, which changed to disappointment at the long time we had towait. As 'little things please little minds, ' to pass the time, Miss T. And I were trundled about in the wheelbarrow in which the old men hadbrought the sods for the Geyser's emetic from the farm; an occasionalupset made our ride all the more amusing. It was a ride worth noting, as it was performed in one of the very few wheeled conveyances in theIsland. 

By the time the exhibition of the Geyser was over, the wind had lulled, the sandstorm had ceased, and our tents had been successfully pitched. In the larger tent we dined, and for such an out-of-the-way place, itwas so wonderful a meal that I must describe it. We were sitting on thepack-boxes inside the tent, waited on by two guides. First there wasox-tail soup quite hot, the tin having been placed in a neighbouring hotspring--the Blissa--for twenty minutes. We had no soup plates, buttumblers served the occasion, being afterwards washed by the guides, andmade ready for further use. 

Tinned meat-collops followed, splendidly hot, and to us hungry mortalsappeared excellent. The third course was tongue, followed by tinnedapricots and thick cream. Alas! we had no spoons, and how to eat ourcream and apricots was a puzzle. Our guide, whom we had christened'Johnny, ' to his great delight, helped us out of this difficulty. Heproduced some horn spoons which he had carved during the long winterevenings, and which he offered to sell to us for a krone a-piece. It wasquite high price enough, notwithstanding the carving, but the necessityof the occasion made us glad to close with his offer. Cheese, biscuit, and figs concluded our magnificent repast. 

After dinner, another inspection of the great Geyser, to see if it wasmore inclined to favour us with a display of its power, but a fruitlessone; a walk amongst the hot springs, and then, as it was bitterly cold, we decided to turn in for the night. Our tents were pitched exactly halfway between the great Geyser and the 'Stroker. ' The large tent was toserve for the three gentlemen and the two guides, and the smaller onefor Miss T. And myself. 

We had secured some bundles of hay for our beds, and our mackintoshsheets were used to cover over them. My brother undertook to make ourbeds, and arrange our tent for the night, and disappeared inside, carrying with him the rugs, air-pillows, etc. , necessary for thepurpose. 

On his returning and telling us all was ready, Miss T. And myself bidthe party good-night. We had not till then realised the height of ourbedchamber, and how to enter it was a puzzle. It was not like the bigtent, which would hold a dozen people standing erect, but a tiny gipsytent, the opening so low, we literally had to crawl in on our hands andknees, whilst the whole community stood round watching us, and laughingheartily. 

Once inside, our difficulties were not over, for we found the sides ofthe tent so low that we could only sit up straight in the middle. So wecould do no more than partially undress and roll ourselves in our furcloaks and rugs. With the exception of waking now and then to listen tothe rumblings we had been told to expect before the eruption of theGreat Geyser, we spent a tolerably comfortable night, notwithstanding wewere surrounded by boiling, seething waters on every side, and were inhopeful expectation of the big Geyser's eruption. By the morning we hadgot quite accustomed to the sulphurous odours. 

We had several visitors in the early morning, who thrust under our tentsuch articles as jewellery, saddle-cloths, carved spoons, etc. , forsale. We bargained for some of these, and ultimately obtained them. Theprices at first asked were absurdly high, but these simple-mindedIcelanders have an idea that our nation's liberality is unbounded. 

There is really little good old jewellery left in the Island, inconsequence of the extreme poverty of the natives, who have sold totravellers the greater portion of that which they possessed. 

How to dress in our three feet tent, was a problem which for some timeour minds failed to solve, and still more, how and where to wash, untilthe gentlemen informed us that as they were going to the springs tobathe, their tent was at our disposal for as long as we wished. Here wefound that their forethought had provided a large tub from the farm, which they had filled with warm water, so, after all, we had a luxuriousbath. 

When our only looking-glass was passed round, we each in turn exclaimed, 'How fearfully burnt I am!' and so indeed we were. Our yachting capsand deerstalkers had been shade enough on board ship, but not for a fourdays' ride across country in wind and a dust storm. 

We had arrived at our journey's end, had seen the 'Stroker' at any rateplay, and now if we wished to catch our steamer at Reykjavik, we had notime to lose in preparing for our return journey, so after breakfast, while our guides collected our steeds, packed the tents, etc. , westarted for a final look at the Geysers and the hot springs, which soabound in this neighbourhood. There are, I believe, no less than fiftywithin the circuit of half a mile. These springs lie at the base of amountain of no great height, the tract in which these thermal waters isfound being about 700 yards in length and 300 in width. 

The Great Geyser lies to the north of this plain, its basin, 60 feet indiameter, is at the summit of a mound 20 feet in height, composed ofsilica, a mineral that the Geyser water holds in solution, and whichfrom the constant overflowing of the water, deposits layers of beautifulenamel, which at the top is too hard to detach, although round the basesoft and crumbly. The basin is nearly circular, and is generally, exceptafter an eruption, full to the brim, and always steaming, the water atthe bottom being about 228° Fahr. 

The tube in the centre, from which the water spouts is about 10 feetacross, and I read somewhere that on measuring down about 70 feet, thetube took a sudden turn which prevented further soundings. The water isejected at a heat of 180° or 190° Fahr. , and rises over 100 feet intothe air. 

These Geysers are nearly 400 feet above sea level. 

The formation of the 'Stroker' differs from that of the Great Geyser innot having any basin round its well, the latter being in shape like arough test-tube, about 8 feet in diameter and 36 feet deep, with twopipe-mouths. After the eruption witnessed by 'Burton, ' he noticed that'the level of the water in the tube was at a depth of 25 feet, wheremight be seen, partly submerged, the mouths of two pipes entering atdifferent angles, close together on the side nearest the Great Geyser. From these pipes steam belched forth at intervals with considerableforce, churning the water in the well round rapidly. '

It is strange that the eruptions of the 'Stroker' do not affect thewater in the well of the Great Geyser, though it is not 100 yards off, while on the other hand, when the Geyser is in eruption, the water ofthe 'Stroker' subsides. 

It really was very tantalising to have come so far, and be within a fewhours' distance of Hecla, and yet have to return without having visitedit. Besides, from what we gathered, we could well have exhausted anotherweek in expeditions in the neighbourhood, but snow-capped Hecla, theice-clad heights of the Jöklar, and the Red Crater, with innumerableother interesting excursions of Icelandic note, had to be left for afuture visit, if ever we should make it, to the Island. 

The name of Hecla means a mantle: its last eruption occurred in 1845. Where is Hecla? Who has not been asked that question at school? andlittle did I think, when learning geography, that I should ever see it, even at a distance. Alas! time would not allow us a nearer acquaintance. Visiting it meant either seventeen days round the Island in a Danishboat, or waiting six weeks for the _Camoens_, circumstances over whichwe had no control made both impossible, and we had reluctantly to giveup the excursion. While these volcanoes and their adjuncts must everremain, from their uncertain eruptions, a cause of terror to theinhabitants--boiling and bubbling for years, and then suddenly burstingforth, to the entire destruction of all around--they have, we know also, a beneficial effect in the world's domestic economy. What, for instance, would happen to Britain were it not for the Gulf Stream? It would be ascold as Labrador. The streams in the Gulf of Mexico are fed fromequatorial currents and boiling springs, and rush on to the NorthAtlantic 25° or 30° warmer than the sea through which it passes, warmingthe air of Western Europe. 

Again, hot springs (caused by subterranean fires), which, from theircurative celebrity, attract visitors and invalids, mean business, andbusiness means money to the inhabitants of the locality. 

Taking our last farewell of these seething pools, which bubbled andboiled around us, I could not help wondering what kind of commotioncould be going on beneath the earth's surface. A power that could thuseject 100 feet of boiling water into the air, and not burst asunder thesurrounding ground, was indeed a marvellous phenomenon. The IcelandGeysers, which were the first discovered, as well as those of NewZealand (so soon to be destroyed), and those of the Yellowstone Park, must ever be of enormous interest to the traveller and geologist, andwith regret we turned our backs upon them, having reached theturning-point of our journey and the limit of our time. Time waits on noman, so we tore ourselves away, feeling, however, we had seen in theIceland Geysers one of the greatest marvels of Nature. 

Various explanations of Geysers have been attempted by scientific men, and as some of my readers may take sufficient interest in thesewonderful phenomena to wish to know something regarding the causes whichoriginate them, I have got my father to write a short chapter on what hesaw and thought of the great Geysers in the volcanic district of theYellowstone Park, which I have appended at the end of my narrative. 

[Illustration: Drinking Horn or Powder Flask. Two-thumbed Glove. TwistedSheeps Horns. Straps for tying on packs. Icelandic Whip, leather thong. Snuff box. Horn Spoon. Skin Shoes. Etched F. P. F. From sketch byAuthor. ]

CHAPTER XI. 

FARM HOUSE. 

We traversed nearly the same road on our return journey from the Geysersas we had taken _en route_, our first halt being made at the farm nearwhich we had lunched the previous day, situated close to the windingriver we had crossed so often. In our up journey, we had had no time tospare, so could not visit the farm house and buildings. Indeed theIcelanders are very chary of exhibiting their domestic arrangements anddwellings, hence it is difficult at all times to visit their homes. However, I was determined to see over a farm house before leaving theIsland, so wandered around until we found an old woman. By shaking handswith her, and praising up her skyr, we made her understand by signs thatwe wished to see the house and byre. These were built of peat andrubble, with grass roofs, on one of which a cow was actually grazing atthe time. Outside, drying in the sun, were pieces of peat in size abouttwo feet by three, and about two inches thick; they were doubled, tent-fashion, to enable the air to pass through, and were standing in arow along a turf wall. On inquiring their use, we learnt they wereintended as a species of saddle-cloth for the pack ponies, to protectthe vertebrae. The peat being placed on the animal's back, the loads areattached on either side by a rope made of the mane and tail hair of theponies, plaited neatly in three, either black and white or brown andwhite, and mixed with a little flax, they really form quite a prettyadornment to the trappings; the loops through which the ropes pass areof carved sheep's horns, knotted into most fantastic shapes. 

We first visited the dairy, composed of peat and rubble as usual. Inside, placed on a shelf, were large basins of milk and cream, as inEngland. Sheep and cows' milk were side by side, for this farmer was awealthy man, and the happy possessor of a few cattle. He had butter too, waiting to be sent to Reykjavik, which we tasted and found very good, and an old-fashioned churn, some three feet high, like a chimney-potwith a rod down the middle, terminating in a piece of flat wood. Of thischurn the old lady seemed very proud, and she was quite delighted when Ilifted the rod up and down, to find I knew how to use it. I believe thatwon her heart. 

Leaving the dairy, the old woman took my hand and dragged me along aperfectly dark passage, Miss T. Following. This passage was paved withstones, and had stone walls on either side. Half stifled with peatsmoke, we arrived, puffing and panting, in the kitchen. Here in a cornerwas the big peat fire which filled the whole dwelling with itsexhalations. All around was perfect blackness, until our eyes gotaccustomed to the dim hazy light, when we espied a woman in a cornermaking cakes, formed of two layers of meal buttered and placed at thebottom of a huge cauldron, such as is used by the Irish peasantry forboiling potatoes. These cakes served hot are very palatable. 

There was no chimney; the smoke merely escaped the best way it couldthrough a small hole, around which some hams were being smoked. Theymust have been mutton hams, for there are no pigs from which to getothers; and mutton hams properly smoked are very good too. 

We were next conducted through another long dark passage, down which westumbled, bumping our heads against the side walls, there being noentrance of light whatever, save what came through the doorway from thereflection of the embers of the peat fire. So dark was the passage, wealmost fancied we were going through a coal mine. After a time wereached a second room, devoted to the storing of packets of dried fishand huge barrels of skyr; but the want of ventilation and light in thisquaint Icelandic larder was sadly felt. 

Where did the family sleep? we asked ourselves, after visiting anothersuch apartment. Finally, by sundry gesticulations, we succeeded inmaking our old friend understand our question, when off she led us tothe family bedroom. Imagine a long passage room with a small window ateither end, containing seven wooden beds, placed so that five joinedhead and foot along one wall, while the other two were on either side ofthe door. Here the whole family disposed of themselves at night. 

In one of the beds lay a poor sick child. From her wasted appearance onemight suppose she was in a consumption, but this fatal disease isunknown in Iceland. 

In another bed lay a poor old woman, who as I addressed her grinned atme so horribly, in the dim-light, that she had the appearance of anawful old witch, and afforded a great contrast to the fragile child inthe adjoining bed. Each bed was covered by an old-fashioned patch-workquilt. 

Stowed away among the low rafters of the roof I noticed a spinning-wheeland paraffin lamp, and some clothes packed in little tight bundles; muchas I should have liked to stop and take in a few more details, my nasalorgans could stand no more, and, feeling somewhat faint, I had, _nolensvolens_, to make a rush for the door. Much to my regret, I did not dareventure inside again to further inspect this curious bedchamber. 

Our old lady bade us a most affectionate farewell, returning severaltimes to shake us warmly by the hand, but distinctly refusing ourproffered krone. 

About half way between the Geysers and Thingvalla we recrossed thefamous Bruara Fall. From bank to bank it is probably 200 feet, but infine weather a crossing can be made by a little bridge which spans some6 feet of babbling, seething water at the narrowest part of the rocks, where the river forms two cascades. The bridge is old and rickety, andas the water is of considerable depth and tremendous volume, the bridgeis hardly a desirable halting-place for any length of time, although theview from its planks is very fascinating. 

We passed that night once more in the parsonage at Thingvalla, but muchmore comfortably than before, as we had engaged all the roomsbeforehand, and also ordered a good fish dinner to be ready for us onour arrival. 

As to meat, we did not expect to get it; beef is hardly ever eaten bythe Icelanders, being too expensive to procure. The native sheep areusually killed towards the end of September, and the meat salted orsmoked for winter consumption. Formerly horse-flesh was much eaten inthe Island, but is not so now. This struck us as strange in a placewhere such a scarcity of food exists, and where ponies abound. Havingtasted it myself while in Germany, I know it is by no means to bedespised. 

The principal vegetables to be had in Iceland are turnips and potatoes, and of these there is only a limited supply; so that really fish remainsthe one staple diet of the Island, --on the coast this is eaten fresh, but it is dried before being packed and sent into the interior--cod, salmon, haddock, trout, halibut, herrings, flounders, and sometimessharks. 

The next morning, as soon as we had breakfasted, we mounted our ponieswith the regretful feeling the day's ride would be our last in Iceland. We had been unfortunate in missing the clergyman at Thingvalla bothgoing and returning: we regretted it the more as we heard that he was avery clever man and a good English scholar. Our good-natured hostess, however, had done her best to supply his place, and we bade her a heartyfarewell, with much shaking of hands. Off we went at a gallop, traversing the same route, fording the same rivers as on our up journey, arriving safely at Reykjavik on the fourth day from that on which we hadleft it, having compassed the 160 miles in three and a half days withcomparatively little fatigue, which I attribute to our mode of ridingbeing so much easier a movement than sitting sideways with a halftwisted body. I can only repeat what I before said, that we should neverhave accomplished this long and fatiguing ride so easily, and in such ashort time, either in a chair or on a side saddle; so if any lady shouldfollow our example, and go to Iceland, let her be prepared to defy MrsGrundy, and ride as a man. 

We had certainly every reason to be contented with the result of ourtrip to the Geysers. The weather had been favourable, --very hotsometimes in the middle of the day, but cold at night; but this wasrather refreshing than otherwise, and the scenery had well repaid ourtoil and trouble. The Icelandic landscapes do not lack colour, as hasbeen asserted by some travellers; whilst the clearness of theatmosphere is wonderful, and the shades of blue, purple, carmine, andyellow in the sky melting into one another produce most lovely effects. 

Unquestionably the landscape lacks trees and verdure, and one missed thegorgeous autumn colouring of our English woods, for there is no foliage, only low scrub jungle. It seems very doubtful if Iceland was everwooded, as is supposed by some persons, as no trees of any size have asyet been discovered in the peat beds, a very conclusive evidence to thecontrary. 

Iceland is so sparsely populated that one often rides miles withoutencountering a human being. Even in the little town of Sauderkrok thereis not much life in the streets; for instance, A. L. T. Dropped his pipeas we rode out of the town, and on our return, eight hours later, wefound it in the centre of a small street, exactly where he had droppedit. Now, as a pipe is a coveted luxury to an Icelander, it is presumablethat no one could have passed along that street in our absence. 

It was just 3 P. M. When we entered Reykjavik, having accomplished ourlast day's ride from Thingvalla in six and a half hours. The _Camoens_was still safely at anchor in the harbour, and we rejoiced at havingreturned without a single _contretemps_. 

On our way through Reykjavik to the ship Mr Gordon ordered dinner at thehotel to be ready by 7 o'clock, and we looked forward to this repastwith much pleasure after our tinned meat and biscuit diet of the lastfew days. 

Before returning on board to change our riding dresses, we went insearch of the washing. In a queer little wooden house, at the back ofthe town, we found the washerman, who smiled and nodded, and asked 3s. For what would have cost 30s. In England, handing us an enormous linenbag, in which the things were packed. This was consigned to A. L. T. , who carried it in both arms through the town, and ultimately on board, where it landed quite dry; and to our surprise we found our linen hadbeen most beautifully washed and got up, quite worthy of a first-classlaundry. 

The dinner was excellent, everything being very hot, and served inDanish style. As is the universal custom among the better class, thehostess waited on us herself, and told us she had spun her own dress andthe sitting-room carpet the winter before, and always wove her ownlinen. This was our last evening ashore, as we were to heave anchor atmidnight on Tuesday, 17th August, and in four and a half days we were, if all went well, to find ourselves back in Scotland. Alas! theseexpectations were not realised, as few human aspirations are!

During our four days' absence to the Geysers, the captain and crew hadbeen engaged in shipping no less than 617 ponies, which additional cargocaused two days' delay. Poor little beasts, when we arrived on board wefound they had all been so tightly stowed away as not to be able to liedown. Fine sturdy little animals they appeared, mostly under sevenyears of age, and in excellent condition; a very different sight to whatthey were on arriving at Granton, when, after six and a half days'voyage, every rib showed distinctly through their wasted, tucked upforms. 

After our dinner we lounged about in Reykjavik, paying a farewell visitto the few objects of interest it has for travellers, most of which havealready been cursorily noticed in a previous chapter. 

We spent some little time in the Museum again, which, after all, is notmuch of an exhibition, for, as our cicerone, the hotel-keeper'sdaughter, Fräulein Johannison, explained, all the best curiosities hadbeen carried off to Denmark. I naturally looked everywhere in the littleMuseum for an egg of the Great Auk, or a stuffed specimen of the bird, but there was neither, which struck me as rather curious, consideringIceland was originally the home of this now extinct species. Not even anegg has been found for over forty years, although diligent search hasbeen made by several well-known naturalists. The Great Auk was never apretty bird; it was large in size, often weighing 11 lb. It had a duck'sbill, and small eyes, with a large unwieldy body, and web feet. Itswings were extremely small and ugly, from long want of use, so thebird's movements on land were slow, and it was quite incapable offlight. On the water it swam fast and well. 

There are only about ten complete specimens of this bird, and aboutseventy eggs, known to exist In March 1888, one of these eggs was soldby auction for £225. 

From the Museum we entered some of the stores, and purchased a faircollection of photographs, some skin shoes, snuff-boxes, buckles, andother native curios; we than returned to the hotel, paid our bill, badeour host, hostess, and guides farewell, with many regretful shakes ofthe hand on either side, and finally quitted Icelandic ground about 9P. M. 

The evening was lovely, and after arranging our cabins we remained sometime on deck watching the Northern Lights, which illuminated the entireheavens, and were most beautiful. Unfortunately we did not see the'Aurora Borealis, ' which in these latitudes is often visible. 

The following afternoon as we were passing the curious rocky WestmannIslands, we slacked steam, to allow an old man in a boat to get the mailbag thrown over to him. He had rowed out some three miles to fetch themail, and the bag contained exactly one letter, and a few newspapers. Steaming on again we sighted no more land until Scotland came in view, which we reached on Sunday afternoon. What a passage we had! It wasrough going to Iceland, but nothing to be compared to our return voyage!We sat on deck, either with our chairs lashed, or else holding on toropes until our hands were quite benumbed with cold, while huge waves, at least 15 feet high, dashed over the ship, often over the bridgeitself. If we opened our cabin portholes for a little fresh air, whichat times was really a necessity, the cabin was soon flooded, and ourclothes and rugs spent half their time being dried in the donkey engineroom. 

Eleven of the poor ponies died, and had to be thrown overboard, aserious loss to their owners; but one could not help wondering that moreof them did not succumb, so closely were they packed together, with verylittle air but that afforded by the windsails. It was marvellous how thesailors managed to drag out the dead from the living mass of animals. This they accomplished by walking on the backs of the survivors, androping the dead animals, drew the carcases to the centre hold of theship, when the crane soon brought them to the surface, and consignedthem to a watery grave. 

For six days the live cargo of beasts had to balance themselves with theship's movement in these turbulent seas without one moment's respite orchange of position. No wonder that on arriving at Granton they were in amiserable plight. Within five minutes, however, of our being roped tothe pier they were being taken off in horse boxes, three at a time, andthe entire number were landed in three hours. 

The hot air from the stables was at times overpowering, notwithstandingthat eight windsails were kept over it, which as they flapped in thewind, looked just like eight ghosts. 

The _Camoens_ was a steady sea boat, but better adapted for cargo thanfor passengers, especially lady passengers, and the captain did notdisguise that he preferred not having the latter on board. Once in calmwater we discovered we had seriously shifted our cargo, and lay all overon one side, so much so that a cup of tea could not stand, the slantbeing great, although the water was perfectly calm. 

Well, we had accomplished our trip, and very much we had enjoyed it. Wehad really seen Iceland, that far off region of ice and snow, and hadreturned safely. The six days on board ship passed pleasantly enough forus; we had got accustomed to roughing it, and were all very good friendswith each other, and the few other passengers. We found one of theseespecially interesting; he was a scientific Frenchman, who had been sentto Iceland to write a book for the Government, and being a very poorEnglish scholar was very glad to find some one who could converse in hisnative tongue. We hardly saw a ship the whole way, but we saw plenty ofwhales, not, however, the kind which go to Dundee, where the whalebonefetches from £1200 to £2000 a ton. 

We brought an enormous skeleton home which was found off the coast ofIceland; and such an immense size; it was sent to England as a curiosityfor some museum. 

Occasionally we had lovely phosphorescent effects, and as we nearedScotland, millions of pink and brown jelly-fish filled the water. AtThurso we hailed a boat to send telegrams ashore--such a collection!--tolet our various friends know we had returned in safety from UltimaThule. That night as we passed Aberdeen we entered calm water, and therewas hardly a ripple all the way to Granton, where we landed at 3. 30 onMonday, 23d August, exactly twenty-four days from starting. 

Such a lovely day! The Forth looked perfect as we steamed up to ourharbour anchorage. The grand hills and rocks and the fine old Castlewere a contrast to poor little Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. Thepretty town, and the trees, how we enjoyed the sight of the latter, forwe had seen no trees for weeks, and their green looked most pleasingamongst the stone buildings. 

How busy, how civilised everything appeared! When will trains and cartstraverse the Northern Isle we had just left? Oh, but where are theemigrants? Let us go and watch their surprised faces as they catch thefirst glimpse of this new scene. We went, and were sorely disappointed. They were merely standing together with their backs to the view, puttingon their boots, or occupied about minor matters, taking no noticewhatever of their surroundings, and receiving no new impressions. Itmust require a civilised mind, we suppose, to appreciate civilisation, just as it requires talent to appreciate talent. 

Below is a table of our expenditure during our trip, which may perhapsprove of service to one wishing to enjoy an uncommon autumn holiday:--

Five people travelling together for twenty-five days disbursed each £20, 1s. 8d. 

 Passage Money round Island and return, £8 0 0 Food, 6s. 6d. A day, 6 3 0 Steward, 10s. , 0 10 0 Food taken from London, £2, 10s. , or 10s. Each, 0 10 0 Four days' ride to Geysers; two nights Thingvalla; ponies, guides, tents, sods, pasturage for ponies; milk, coffee, etc. , 4 0 0 Akureyri; going ashore, dinner, pony, etc. , 0 6 10 Sanderkrok; " skyr, coffee, etc. , 0 6 0 Bordeyri; " " " " 0 5 10 --------- £20 1 8

 Wine not included. 

 Purchases, photos, washing, stamps, and other individual personal expenses extra. 

CHAPTER XII. 

VOLCANOES. 

In the foregoing pages it may seem strange that hardly any allusion hasbeen made to the special characteristic of Iceland, viz. , its volcanicstructure, or to the numerous lava floods which, bursting forth infurious molten streams, have from time to time devastated its surface, leaving in their track a chaos of disrupted rocks, chasms, vastfissures, and subterranean caverns. 

Our trip to Iceland was, however, unfortunately so limited in durationas to preclude, save in our four days' ride to the Great Geyser tract, any extension of travel in the various volcanic regions. Hence theomission. I have therefore extracted the following data relative to itsprincipal volcanoes and their eruptions from such books of reference[Footnote: Mrs Somerville's 'Physical Geography;' Chambers''Encyclopædia;' Ree's 'Cyclopædia;' Lyell's 'Geology;' Mr George Lock's'Guide to Iceland. '] as have been available to me. 

The annexed compilation will, I think, explain to such of my readers asare not acquainted with the geological strata of Iceland, its sterilenature, the extreme poverty of its inhabitants, and the constant terrorunder which their existence is passed, lest a fresh outbreak of lavashould sweep away both them and their homesteads. It is somewhatsingular, that although Iceland may be looked upon as a veritable massof volcanoes and hot springs--for with the exception of some 4000 squaremiles of habitable ground, it may be said literally to rest onunderground fires, and while the various eruptions of Etna, Vesuvius, and other volcanoes have for centuries been watched and recorded in thepublic papers with interest--it is only comparatively recently that theawe-inspiring volcanic eruptions of Iceland have been brought intonotice. For instance, while full fifty pages in Ree's 'Cyclopædia' aredevoted to the subject of volcanoes, those of Iceland are barely touchedupon; yet their eruptions are by far the most devastating on record. Solimited, indeed, formerly were the researches of science in theseice-clad regions, that for long Hecla was quoted as its only volcano. 

Now that the Island has attracted the further notice of geologists, ithas been shown that there exist no less than twenty volcanic mountains, all of which have been in active eruption within historic times, andnearly one hundred eruptions have been chronicled as having taken placein the Island. 

Although Hecla is doubtless the best known of the Iceland volcanoes, itis by no means the largest; that of 'Askja' (a basket), far surpasses itin size. This latter volcano lies in a great central desert termed'Odaxa-hraun' or 'Misdeed Lava Desert, ' covering a space of 1200 squaremiles, and a most appropriate name it is, for the devastation caused byits last flood of lava is indescribable. 

In one of the convulsions of this mountain in 1875, a quantity of lavafive miles in circumference was disrupted, sinking into the mountain toa depth of 710 feet, and causing an earthquake which was felt all overthe island. In one region, viz. , that of the 'Myvatn's Orœfi' or 'MidgeLake Desert, ' a fissure was opened which extended over 20 miles in anorth-easterly direction, through which molten lava flowed continuouslyfor four months after the earthquake. Although this fissure is at least30 miles from Askja, so great was the column of fire thrown up by theeruption, that it was visible for four successive days at Reykjavik, 100miles distant. The study of an Icelandic map will show the numerousvolcanic ranges of mountains which intersect the island in almost everydirection. 

To the north there will be seen a wonderful volcanic tract. So vast, infact, that Professor Johnstrup has termed it the Fire Focus of theNorth. To the north-east, again, is found a large lake, called 'Myvata, 'or 'Midge Lake, ' with a volcanic range of mountains which stretch fromnorth to south; the most famous of these are 'Leivhnukr, ' and 'Krafla, 'which, after years of quiescence, poured forth such an amount of lavainto the adjoining lake that for many days its waters stood at boilingheat. Other volcanoes in this region eject with terrible force aquantity of boiling mineral pitch, throwing up the dark mattercompletely enveloped in steam, accompanied by horrible rumbling noises. 

Sir George Mackenzie, in his travels in Iceland, thus describes one ofthe deposits:--

'It is impossible, ' he says, 'to convey any idea of the wonders of itsterrors, or the sensations of a person even of strong nerves standing ona support which but feebly bears him, and below which fire and brimstoneare in incessant action, having before his eyes tremendous proof of whatis going on beneath him; enveloped in thick vapour, his ears stunnedwith thundering noises--such a situation can only be conceived by onewho has experienced it. '

The extent of the sulphur beds too in this region are beyondcalculation: they reproduce themselves every few years. In the vicinityof 'Krafla' is a curious rock, composed of obsidian, a substance whichclosely resembles black glass. 

To the south of the Island is another volcano, termed the 'Kotlugja, ' or'Cauldron Rift, ' lying among glaciers known as the 'Myrdals Jökull, 'whose eruptions, thirteen of which have been noted, are considered tohave done more mischief than any others in the Island. Between theMyrdals and the 'Orœja Jökla' lies one of the most noted volcanoes ofIceland--the 'Skaptar-Jökull, ' whose eruption in 1783 is chronicled inall works on Iceland, as the prodigious floods of lava it poured forthin that year were unparalleled in historic times. The molten streamsrushing seaward, down the rivers and valleys, the glowing lava leapingover precipices and rocks, which in after years, when they have cooleddown, resemble petrified cataracts, and now form one of the grand scenicattractions of the Island. 

In Mrs Somerville's 'Physical Geography, ' she vividly describes thiseruption, narrating how, commencing in May 1783, it continued pouringforth its fiery streams with unabated fury until the following August. So great was the amount of vapour, that the sun was hidden for months, whilst clouds of ashes were carried hundreds of miles out to sea. Thequantity of matter ejected on this occasion was calculated at from fiftyto sixty thousand millions of cubic yards. The burning lava flowed in astream in some places 20 to 30 miles broad, filling up the beds ofrivers, and entering the sea at a distance of 50 miles from where theeruption occurred. Some of the rivers were not only heated to boilingpoint, but were dried up, and the condensed vapour fell as snow andrain. Epidemic disease followed in the wake of this fearful lava flood. It was calculated that no less than 1300 persons, and 150, 000 sheep andcattle perished, 20 villages were destroyed. The eruption lasted twoyears. 

Mr Paulson, a geologist, who visited Iceland eleven years later, foundsmoke still issuing from the rocks in the locality. 

The heat of this eruption not only re-melted old lavas, and opened freshsubterranean caverns, but one of its streams was computed to course theplains to an extent of 50 miles, with a depth of 100 feet, and 12 to 15feet broad. Another stream was calculated at 40 miles long, and 7 wide. Men, their cattle and homesteads, their churches and grazing lands, wereburnt up, whilst noxious vapours not only filled the air, but evenshrouded the light of the sun. 

The terrible convulsions which occurred in Iceland during the year 1783, were greater than those recorded at any other period. About a monthpreviously to the convulsion of 'Skaptar-Jökull, ' a submarine volcanoburst out at sea, and so much pumice stone was ejected that the sea wascovered with it for 150 miles round, ships being stopped in theircourse, whilst a new island was thrown up, which the King of Denmarkclaimed, and named Nyöe, or New Island. Before the year had elapsed, however, it as speedily disappeared, leaving only a reef of rocks some30 fathoms under water to mark its site. 

But what of Hecla? which is 5000 feet high, and is situated close to thecoast at the Southern end of a low valley, lying between two vastparallel table lands covered with ice. 

If the eruptions of Hecla are not considered to have been quite sodevastating as those just recorded of the 'Skaptar-Jökull, ' theirduration has been longer, some of them having lasted six years at atime. 

When Sir George Mackenzie visited Hecla, he found its principal crater100 feet deep, and curiously enough, it contained a quantity of snow atthe bottom. There are many smaller craters near its summit, thesurrounding rocks, consisting chiefly of lava and basalt, are coveredwith loose stones, scoria, and ashes. 

A record of the eruptions of Hecla has been chronicled since the 10thcentury, and they number 43. One of its most violent convulsionsoccurred in the same year as that of the 'Skaptar-Jökull, ' viz. , in1783. At a distance of two miles from the crater, the lava flood was onemile wide, and 40 feet deep, whilst its fine dust was scattered as faras the Orkney Islands, 400 miles distant. 

The mountain itself is composed of sand, grit, and ashes, several kindsof pumice stone being thrown out of it. It also ejects a quantity of aspecies of black jaspars, which look as if they had been burned at theextremities, while in form they resemble trees and branches. All thedifferent kinds of lava found in volcanoes are to be met with here, suchas agate, pumice stone, and both black and green lapis obsidian. Theselavas are not all found near the place of eruption, but at somedistance, and on their becoming cold form arches and caverns, the crustof which being hard rock. The smaller of the caverns are now used by theIcelanders for sheltering their cattle. The largest of the caves knownis 5034 feet long and from 50 to 54 feet broad and from 34 to 36 feethigh. 

It is believed by some geologists that a subterranean channel connectsthe volcanic vent of Hecla with the great central one of Askja. Thistheory is based on the fact that a number of lava floods have burstforth simultaneously at different times at great distances from thevolcanoes, leading to the supposition that innumerable subterraneanchannels exist in the neighbourhood. 

The eruptions attributed to the volcano of Hecla vary much in number, some authorities saying there have been 40. Mrs Somerville quotes themat 23, and Mr Locke, in his 'Guide to Iceland, ' at 17 in number. In thelatter's work is given a table of most of its principal eruptions. Oneof these was of a singular nature; huge chasms opened in the earth, andfor three days the wells and fountains became as white as milk, and newhot springs sprang into existence. 

The twelfth eruption of this mountain was also of unusual violence. Itoccurred in January 1597. For twelve days previously to the outbreakloud reports were heard all over the Island, while no less than eighteencolumns of fire were seen ascending from it during its eruption. Theashes it threw out covered half the Island. 

The seventeenth eruption commenced on the 2d September 1845, andcontinued for seven months. On this occasion the ashes were carried overto Shetland, and the columns of smoke rising from the mountain reached aheight of 14, 000 Danish feet. 

Such is a brief description of the tremendous forces which dominateIceland. Here Nature works in silence for long periods beneath the crustof the earth, and then, with little or no forewarning, bursts forth inuncontrollable fury, ruthlessly devastating with its fiery streamswhatever impedes its course. 

Who can wonder that, under such existing terrors, the scanty inhabitantsof the Island are a sad and dejected race. A people with death andterror continually at their doors can hardly be otherwise; whilstcompetitive industry, energy, and hopeful prosperity are alikesuppressed by the constant devastations which occur. 

With respect to the Thermal Springs, these must be considered asproducts of the same underground fires, and which form a secondcharacteristic of Iceland. 

These Springs may be divided into three kinds, viz. , those of unceasingebullition, those which are only sometimes eruptive, and wells whichmerely contain tepid water, though supposed to have been formerlyeruptive. 

Professor Bunsen, who passed eleven days by the side of the Great Geyserin Iceland, attributes the phenomenon to the molecular changes whichtake place in water after being subjected to heat. In suchcircumstances, water loses much of the air condensed in it, and thecohesion of the molecules is thereby increased, and a higher temperaturerequired to boil it. In this state, when boiled, the production ofvapour is so instantaneous as to cause an explosion. 

Professor Bunsen found that the water at the bottom of the greatIcelandic Geyser had a higher temperature than that of boiling water, and that this temperature increasing, finally caused its eruption. 

In America, among the hot springs warmed by subterranean vapours, suchas those springing from the sides of 'Nuerode Chilian, ' the hot springsgush out through a bed of perpetual snow. 

Among the hot springs of Iceland, Mr G. Loch gives an interestingdescription of those known as the 'Northern Geyser' and its tributarysprings. One of these, the 'Uxhaver' or 'Ox Spring' is named from an Oxhaving fallen into it, and in a short time having been thrown out in theform of boiled beef. This hot spring emanates from an oval basin, 30feet in circumference, and 4 feet in diameter. Its spurts are veryregular, occurring about every 6 minutes, and about 10 feet high. Aftera spurt the water in the basin is lowered from 4 to 6 feet, but quicklyrefills, whilst the water thrown up is clear as crystal, and its sprayglistening in the sun's rays has a most beautiful effect. 

The smaller springs in this so-called 'Uxhaver' group are collected in abed of rock 280 feet from the principal Geyser, and it is singular thatalthough separated from it by only 300 yards of boggy ground, thesprings in each bed of rock seem to have a distinct source of supply, for they are not affected by each other's spoutings. It is impossibleeven to enumerate the various hot springs of Iceland, as they are spreadover all its volcanic region. 

I must here bring my little book to a close, and if it has done no morethan make my readers desire to make a personal acquaintance with thiswonderful little Island, so full of natural curiosities, so abounding inancient history, so isolated, and so quaint, it will have served itsobject. 

APPENDIX. 

_WHAT IS A GEYSER?_

Having been requested by my daughter to add to her little book a shortexplanatory chapter on the marvellous phenomenon of Nature she saw inIceland, commonly called a Geyser, I herewith subjoin the results of afew of the observations and reflections I made while visiting the greatgeysers of the volcanic districts of Wyoming and Montana, in the autumnof 1884. 

In order to make the matter perfectly clear, let me say at the veryoutset that a geyser is simply a volcano from which a quantity ofsuperheated boiling water, saturated with mineral matter, isparoxysmally ejected high into the air. Instead of, as in the case offire volcanoes, the ejected matters being smoke, flame, lava, scoria, pumice stone, and scalding mud. Moreover, while the eruptions from allvolcanoes are intermittent--that is to say, every kind of volcano hasalternating periods of activity and repose--the eruptions from geysersfurther differ from the fire and flame ejections of burning mountains, with their other attendant phenomena, in occurring at definite periodsof time, and being of equally definite durations. It is this life-likeperiodicity in the geyser's mode of action which makes it asawe-inspiring to behold as it is puzzling to explain. 

That hot water should issue in a continuous and but little varying sizedstream from the bowels of the earth, with a force sufficient to carry ithigh into the air, has nothing whatever wonderful about it. Such anatural phenomenon may be witnessed at many places. For example, it maybe seen doing so everyday at the white foaming, frothing, naturalmineral water sprudel of Nauheim, or at any artificially bored artesianwell, such as the celebrated one at Paris. Nor does the mereintermittence of water issuing from the bowels of the earth suffice tosurprise one. For such natural phenomena are seen at Bolder-Born, inWestphalia; the Lay-Well, at Torbay; the Giggleswick Well, in Yorkshire;and even on a small scale at St Anthony's Well, Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh; all which occurrences are readily explicable on ordinaryhydraulic principles, and quite different things from geyser action, which try to explain it as you will, always runs into a volcanic groove. Yet the periodicity of a geyser's action cannot be said to be entirelydue to volcanic agency. For the mere action of heat on the solids of theearth's crust, or even of heat in simple conjunction with water, according to either Mackenzie or Tyndall's theories, [Footnote: Sir G. S. Mackenzie's 'Travels in Iceland, ' in 1810, p. 228. Prof. Tyndall 'OnHeat, ' p. 126. ] even did they suffice to give a satisfactory explanationof the action of the geysers in Iceland, are assuredly totallyinadequate to explain the action of all those of the Yellowstone Park. For the simple reason that the vapours escaping from some of them are sostrongly impregnated with hydrochloric, sulphurous, and sulphuric acidgases, as well as with sulphuretted hydrogen, as to compel one tobelieve that chemical action plays a not unimportant part in theproduction of the phenomena there witnessed. Moreover, the solidsbrought up by the water closely resemble in chemical composition thelava ejected from burning mountains, inasmuch as, besides containing alarge percentage of silica and alumina, they likewise consist of lime, potash, soda, magnesia, and iron, as well as of a small proportion ofother metals, as was guessed at by the beautifully varied green, rose, yellow, and purple hues of the beds of the streamlets flowing from thecraters of the geysers. The geysers of the Yellowstone, althoughsituated at the height of 7765 feet above the level of the sea, nevertheless lie in valleys, for the mountains surrounding them are muchhigher still. 

Some idea of the force with which the water issues from the earth, maybe formed from the fact that it is in some cases sufficient to carry acolumn of over six feet in diameter 200 feet high, for the space oftwenty minutes at a time. And all know that 200 feet is nearly doublethe height of any ordinary church steeple. Moreover, the amount ofsolids brought up with the water may be imagined when I say that, in oneof the boiling springs, the mixture so closely resembles thick milkgruel as to have given to it the name of the 'paint-pot, ' and so loadedis its water with mineral matters, that they consolidate almostimmediately after escaping from the spring's outlet. So thick indeed isit, that I kneaded some into the shape of a brick, which I have still inmy possession. All the geyser water in this district is so charged withsilicious earths that it consolidates sufficiently rapidly to form anupright rim around each geyser's vent. Just as a fringe of scoria andlava encircles the mouth of a burning mountain. 

The rapidity with which the deposits form and solidify may beconjectured when I say that I saw trees growing close to some of thegeysers whose stems and lower branches were so encrusted with geyseriteas to give the idea that they were actually petrified. While again I sawan old horse shoe, which had only been fourteen days in the water, socompletely enveloped with it that it looked exactly as if it had beenhewn out of solid marble. 

The mere glancing around, and noticing how the geysers had evidently, like human beings, but a transient existence, produced a somewhatstrange sensation. For it was perfectly evident that they are born butto die. All of them appearing to spout themselves permanently out. Forwhile on one side some seemed just as if they were starting intoexistence, on another were those apparently in the very zenith of theirstrength, while others again looked as if they were making but theirlast feeble efforts at existence, though it was evident, from the heapsof consolidated geyserite surrounding them, that they had but recentlypassed through halcyon days of youthful energy and manhood power. Everyhere and there again we came upon others from whose wide open emptymouths came forth neither a puff of steam nor a drop of water. They weredead, and not a few of them were so completely eviscerated as to allowof the explorer to descend with perfect safety into the bowels of theearth through their vents. Geyser activity is in fact but the last actin the drama of volcanic life: all around proved this. Close at handwere stupendous cliffs of pure obsidian--the black bottle glassmanufactured in Nature's furnaces. Even half a mile of our road wasmacadamised with it. And so similar not only in chemical composition butin optical properties is this obsidian to actual glass, that a flatpiece I picked up on the road, just after it had been splintered off ablock by one of the wheels of our carriage, is as transparent as anypiece of black bottle glass of equal thickness. These mountains ofobsidian plainly tell how awfully stupendous must have been the heatingprocess which called them into existence, as well as how big must be thecavities left in the bowels of the earth from which the materialsconstituting them were obtained. No doubt water scoops out caverns inthe softer strata composing the earth's crust, but these can scarcely bethought to equal in extent the cavities made by volcanoes. Think, forexample, of what a hole in the earth must have been left by the 50 mileslong and 5 miles broad lava stream which flowed from Mauna Loa in 1859, and fell as a fiery cascade over a cliff into the sea, in sufficientamount to fill up a large bay. 

The geyser basin is in many places actually honeycombed with varioussized caverns, either directly due to volcanic action, or to water, orto both combined, and these caverns, though widely apart, may yet freelycommunicate with each other by means of subterranean river courses. Ihave myself followed one river course into the bowels of the earth forthree miles and more, in the great Adelsberg Grotto, in Styria. I haverowed across the lake in the dismally dark cavern at Han, in theArdennes. And even in our own Derbyshire, I have seen, half-a-mile fromthe entrance of the Speedwell Mine, a river, a water-fall, and a lake, all of which tell that such natural phenomena exist within the bowels ofthe earth as well as upon its surface. Moreover, the resounding echoesfrom the clatter of our horses' feet as they briskly trotted over someof the geyserite, as well as the heat we experienced through the thickleather soles of our boots as we walked across it, was unmistakableproof that but a thin layer of crust separated the surface of the globewe were traversing in Wyoming and Montana not alone from vast caverns, but likewise from still active subterranean fires. 

All the preceding facts I have narrated must be borne in mind, in orderthat the theory of geyser action I am now about to propound may bereadily understood. For unless the reader believes:--

1st. That cavities of various shapes and sizes exist in the earth'scrust;

2d. That the earth possesses internal lakes as well as rivers;

3d. That there are vast internal fires still actively at work in theneighbourhood of geysers; and, 4th. That the smell of the acid vapours and sulphuretted hydrogen, aswell as the mineral matters dissolved and suspended in the ejectedwaters, are proof positive of chemical activity, he will entirely failto perceive the value of my remarks regarding the cause of a geyser'saction being not only spasmodic but periodic. 

On the next page is an explanatory diagramatic sketch, in which noattempt has been made at the impossible, namely, to apportion the size, the shape, or the situation of the cavities to each other. As they mayin reality be close together, or miles apart. They may all be on thesame level, or more likely not. They may be of nearly equal dimensions, or of varying sizes. It matters not one whit, for the purposes of thedemonstration of the theory of geyser action now being adduced. 

A. A cavernous reservoir, receiving its water supply by streamletfeeders (_b_) from the hills (_a_). B. A natural, and, it may be, circuitous syphon conduit, by which the water can only reach chamber (C)after it has filled tube (B) to the level of the syphon's top, consequently the supply of water to chamber (C) is intermittent, andonly lasts until the water in chamber (A) has sunk down to the orificeof its syphon connection. C. Is supposed to be the chemical laboratoryin which the decomposable minerals are, and it is further supposed to beheated by subterranean fires. In case the reader knows but little ofchemistry, I may remark that all chemical changes are greatlyaccelerated by heat, and that superheated steam is a most powerful agentin expediting the decomposition of earthy and alkaline compounds. 

In the case of these subterranean laboratories, it is utterly impossiblefor even the scientifically trained mind to conceive what the extent ofthe heat may be. All he knows is that it is probably far greater thansuffices to resolve water into its gaseous elements--oxygen andhydrogen--and that even before this point is reached, superheated steambecomes a terrifically formidable explosive agent. Look at what it didat Ban-dai-san in Japan last year. It actually split a mountain threemiles in circumference in twain, and blew one half of it right away intoa valley as if it had been the mere outside wall of a house. And suchwas the force of the wind-shock it occasioned that all the trees growingon the opposite mountain's side were knocked down by it as if they hadbeen mere nine-pins. [Footnote: In 'Nature, ' of the 17th January 1889, at p. 279, will be found an account of the scene of devastation when itwas visited (in the month of October 1888) by my son Vaughan; the samewho visited the geysers of the Yellowstone with me in 1884, and those ofIceland with his sister in 1887. ]

In the case of the geyser, superadded to the superheated steam'sexplosive power, there will be in addition that of the gases liberatedby the decomposition of the carbonates, sulphates, and chlorides (underthe combined influence of heat and water) in chamber (C), which I callfor the nonce the chemical laboratory. Not alone will all earthy andalkaline, but even metallic compounds, like iron pyrites, thereincontained, be rapidly decomposed on the advent of the superheated water. And from their gaseous elements being held in a confined space, theywill acquire an enormous explosive power. Consequently, there is nodifficulty in understanding how that on obtaining entrance into chamber(E) by means of conduit (D), they will instantly proceed to expel fromit all its water. And from the water finding no other outlet except byvent (F), it will rush through it, and, by virtue of the propellingforce of the gases, be thrown up into the air in the form of a geyser. Whose activity will only last so long as the supply of water in chamber(F) remains unexhausted. 

[Illustration: A. Water-tank. C. Chemical Laboratory. E. Geyser-waterReservoir. F. Geyser. _Page 164. _]

The above being a rough outline of the salient points of what I considerto be a rational, though, it may be, incomplete, theory of the geyseraction I saw in the Yellowstone Park, I shall now add a concluding wordon the probable mode of action of the so-called 'earth-sod emetic' thatmy daughter describes as having been given to the 'Stroker' geyser inIceland in order to make it eject its water. 

The mode of action of the sods, I think, is easily enough explained onthe supposition that the geyser has a constriction at some point oranother in its vent, and that the sods plug it up sufficiently to holdback the steam and water until they have accumulated sufficient power toblow out the obstructing body, and escape after it with a rush into theair. Precisely in the same way as a fermenting barrel of beer blows outits bung, and its fluid contents gush out, when its vent-holeaccidentally becomes plugged up. 

 GEORGE HARLEY, M. D. , F. R. S. 

THE END. 

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+--------------------Transcriber's Note-----------------------+| || Minor punctuation and printing errors have been corrected. || || Punctuation, hyphenation and location spelling conventions || differ by text authorship. This transcription retains the || internally consistent conventions used in the preface, body, || appendix and advertisements. || || Four pages of advertisements printed at the beginning of the|| of the book are placed at the end. || || Four footnotes appear in the text, two short footnotes are || embedded in place. || |+-------------------------------------------------------------+