A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:

FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THEPRESENT TIME. 

BY

ROBERT KERR, F. R. S. & F. A. S. EDIN. 

ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS, VOL. XIV. 

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:

AND T. CADELL, LONDON. 

MDCCCXXIV. 

CONTENTS OF VOL. XIV. 

PART III. --BOOK II. 

An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World, performed in his Majesty's ships the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years1772, 3, 4, and 5: Written by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution. 

General Introduction

CHAP. I. From our departure from England to leaving the Society Isles thefirst time. 

 SECT. I. Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account of several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there. 

 II. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern Continent. 

 III. Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the Meridian of the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of the Separation of the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay. 

 IV. Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several Interviews with the Inhabitants. 

 V. Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account of the adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and Nautical Observations. 

 VI. Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account of some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure. 

 VII. Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships were separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Account of Van Diemen's Land. 

 VIII. Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks on the Inhabitants. 

 IX. Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some low Islands, supposed to be the same that were seen by M. De Bougainville. 

 X. Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay. 

 XI. An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left on the Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships lay in Matavai Bay. 

 XII. An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the Incidents that happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of the Natives, coming away in the Adventure, XIII. Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an Account of what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, coming away in the Resolution. 

 XIV. An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State of the Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of the Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected. 

CHAP. II. From our Departure from the Society Isles, to our Return to and leavingthem the second Time. 

 SECT. I. Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of the Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at Middleburg. 

 II. The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a Place of Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we remained at that Island. 

 III. A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the Cultivation, Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, Customs, Government, Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants. 

 IV. Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account of an Interview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation of the two Ships. 

 V. Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of the Inhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents. --Departure from the Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some Description of the Coast. 

 VI. Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; with an Account of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the Methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean. 

 VII. Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, and Transactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the Inland Part of the Country, and a Description of some of the surprising gigantic Statues found in the Island. 

 VIII. A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, and Inhabitants; their Manners, and Customs; Conjectures concerning their Government, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular Account of the gigantic Statues. 

 IX. The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands. Transactions and Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina. 

 X. Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation, Extent, Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some Account of the Inhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food, Weapons, and Canoes. 

 XI. A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the Passage from the Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval Review. 

 XII. Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other Chiefs; also of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its Consequences, with general Observations on the Subject. 

 XIII. Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and various other Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval Force, and Number of Inhabitants. 

 XIV. The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an Account of an Expedition into the Island, and several other Incidents which happened while she lay there. 

 XV. Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met with there, and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A Report of two Ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the island, and the Regret the Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The Character of Oedidee; with some general Observations on the Islands. 

CHAP. III. From Ulietea to New Zealand. 

 SECT. I. Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Isles, with a Description of several Islands that were discovered, and the Incidents which happened in that Track. 

 II. Reception at Anamocka; a Robbery and its Consequences, with a Variety of other Incidents. Departure from the Island. A sailing Canoe described. Some Observations on the Navigation of these Islanders. A Description of the Island, and of those in the Neighbourhood, with some Account of the Inhabitants, and nautical Remarks. 

 III. The Passage from the Friendly Isles to the New Hebrides, with an Account of the Discovery of Turtle Island, and a Variety of Incidents which happened, both before and after the Ship arrived in Port Sandwich, in the Island of Mallicollo. A Description of the Port, the adjacent Country, its Inhabitants, and many other Particulars. 

 IV. An Account of the Discovery of several Islands, and an Interview and Skirmish with the Inhabitants upon one of them. The Arrival of the Ship at Tanna, and the Reception we met with there. 

 V. An Intercourse established with the Natives; some Account of the Island, and a Variety of Incidents that happened during our Stay at it. 

 VI. Departure from Tanna; with some Account of its Inhabitants, their Manners and Arts. 

 VII. The survey of the Islands continued, and a more particular Description of them. 

 VIII. An Account of the Discovery of New Caledonia, and the Incidents that happened while the Ship lay in Balade. 

 IX. A Description of the Country and its Inhabitants; their Manners, Customs, and Arts. 

 X. Proceedings on the Coast of New Caledonia, with Geographical and Nautical Observations. 

 XI. Sequel of the Passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, with an Account of the Discovery of Norfolk Island; and the Incidents that happened while the Ship lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. 

CHAP. IV. From leaving New Zealand to our Return to England. 

 SECT. I. The Run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego, with the Range from Cape Deseada to Christmas Sound, and Description of that Part of the Coast. 

 II. Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an Account of the Country and its Inhabitants. 

A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. 

PART III. BOOK II. 

AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD;PERFORMED IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE, IN THE YEARS1772, 3, 4, AND 5: WRITTEN BY JAMES COOK, COMMANDER OF THE RESOLUTION. 

GENERAL INTRODUCTION. 

Whether the unexplored part of the Southern Hemisphere be only an immensemass of water, or contain another continent, as speculative geographyseemed to suggest, was a question which had long engaged the attention, notonly of learned men, but of most of the maritime powers of Europe. 

To put an end to all diversity of opinion about a matter so curious andimportant, was his majesty's principal motive in directing this voyage tobe undertaken, the history of which is now submitted to the public. [1]

But, in order to give the reader a clear idea of what has been done in it, and to enable him to judge more accurately, how far the great object thatwas proposed, has been obtained, it will be necessary to prefix a shortaccount of the several voyages which have been made on discoveries to theSouthern Hemisphere, prior to that which I had lately the honour toconduct, and which I am now going to relate. 

The first who crossed the vast Pacific Ocean, was Ferdinand Magalhaens, aPortuguese, who, in the service of Spain, sailed from Seville, with fiveships, on the 10th of April, 1519. He discovered the straits which bear hisname; and having passed through them, on the 27th of November, 1520, entered the South Pacific Ocean. 

In this sea he discovered two uninhabited islands, whose situations are notwell known. He afterwards crossed the Line; discovered the Ladrone Islands;and then proceeded to the Phillipines, in one of which he was killed in askirmish with the natives. 

His ship, called the Victory, was the first that circumnavigated the globe;and the only one of his squadron that surmounted the dangers and distresseswhich attended this heroic enterprise. [2]

The Spaniards, after Magalhaens had shewed them the way, made severalvoyages from America to the westward, previous to that of Alvaro Mendana DeNeyra, in 1595, which is the first that can be traced step by step. For theantecedent expeditions are not handed down to us with much precision. 

We know, however, in general, that, in them, New Guinea, the islands calledSolomon's, and several others, were discovered. 

Geographers differ greatly concerning the situation of the Solomon Islands. The most probable opinion is, that they are the cluster which compriseswhat has since been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. [3]

On the 9th of April, 1595, Mendana, with intention to settle these islands, sailed from Callao, with four ships; and his discoveries in his route tothe west, were the Marquesas, in the latitude of 10° S. ; the island of StBernardo, which I take to be the same that Commodore Byron calls the Islandof Danger; after that, Solitary Island, in the latitude of 10° 40' S. , longitude 178° W. ; and, lastly, Santa Cruz, which is undoubtedly the samethat Captain Carteret calls Egmont Island. 

In this last island, Mendana, with many of his companions, died; and theshattered remains of the squadron were conducted to Manilla, by PedroFernandes de Quiros, the chief pilot. 

This same Quiros was the first sent out, with the sole view of discoveringa southern continent, and, indeed, he seems to have been the first who hadany idea of the existence of one. 

He sailed from Callao the 21st of December, 1605, as pilot of the fleet, commanded by Luis Paz de Torres, consisting of two ships and a tender; andsteering to the W. S. W. , on the 26th of January, 1606. Being then, by theirreckoning, a thousand Spanish leagues from the coast of America, theydiscovered a small low island in latitude 26° S. Two days after, theydiscovered another that was high, with a plain on the top. This is probablythe same that Captain Carteret calls Pitcairn's Island. 

After leaving these islands, Quiros seems to have directed his course toW. N. W. And N. W. To 10° or 11° S. Latitude, and then westward, till hearrived at the Bay of St Philip and Jago, in the Island of Tierra delEspirito Santo. In this route be discovered several islands; probably someof those that have been seen by later navigators. 

On leaving the bay of St Philip and St Jago, the two ships were separated. Quiros, with the Capitana, stood to the north, and returned to New Spain, after having suffered greatly for want of provisions and water. Torres, with the Almiranta and the tender, steered to the west, and seems to havebeen the first who sailed between New Holland and New Guinea. [4]

The next attempt to make discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, wasconducted by Le Maire and Schouten. They sailed from the Texel, on the 14thof June, 1615, with the ships Concord and Horn. The latter was burnt byaccident in Port Desire. With the other they discovered the straits thatbear the name of Le Maire, and were the first who ever entered the PacificOcean, by the way of Cape Horn. 

They discovered the island of Dogs, in latitude 15° 15' S. , longitude 136°30' W. ; Sondre Grondt in 15° S. Latitude, and 143° 10' W. Longitude;Waterland in 14° 46' S. , and 144° 10' W. ; and twenty-five leagues westwardof this, Fly Island, in latitude 15° 20'; Traitor's and Coco's Islands, inlatitude 15° 43' S. , longitude 173° 13' W. ; two degrees more to thewestward, the isle of Hope; and in the latitude of 14° 56' S. , longitude179° 30' E. , Horn Island. 

They next coasted the north side of New Britain and New Guinea, and arrivedat Batavia in October, 1616. [5]

Except some discoveries on the western and northern coasts of New Holland, no important voyage to the Pacific Ocean was undertaken till 1642, whenCaptain Tasman sailed from Batavia, with two ships belonging to the DutchEast India Company, and discovered Van Diemen's Land; a small part of thewestern coast of New Zealand; the Friendly Isles; and those called PrinceWilliam's. [6]

Thus far I have thought it best not to interrupt the progress of discoveryin the South Pacific Ocean, otherwise I should before have mentioned, thatSir Richard Hawkins in 1594, being about fifty leagues to the eastward ofthe river Plate, was driven by a storm to the eastward of his intendedcourse, and when the weather grew moderate, steering towards the Straits ofMagalhaens, he unexpectedly fell in with land, about sixty leagues of whichhe coasted, and has very particularly described. This he named Hawkins'sMaiden Land, in honour of his royal mistress, Queen Elizabeth, and says itlies some threescore leagues from the nearest part of South America. 

This land was afterwards discovered to be two large islands, by CaptainJohn Strong, of the Farewell, from London, who, in 1689, passed through thestrait which divides the eastern from the western of those islands. To thisstrait he gave the name of Falkland's Sound, in honour of his patron LordFalkland; and the name has since been extended, through inadvertency, tothe two islands it separates. 

Having mentioned these islands, I will add, that future navigators willmis-spend their time, if they look for Pepy's Island in 47° S. ; it beingnow certain, that Pepy's Island is no other than these islands ofFalkland. [7]

In April, 1675, Anthony la Roche, an English merchant, in his return fromthe South Pacific Ocean, where he had been on a trading voyage, beingcarried by the winds and currents, far to the east of Strait Le Maire, fellin with a coast, which may possibly be the same with that which I visitedduring this voyage, and have called the Island of Georgia. 

Leaving this land, and sailing to the north, La Roche, in the latitude of45° S. , discovered a large island, with a good port towards the easternpart, where he found wood, water, and fish. 

In 1699, that celebrated astronomer, Dr Edmund Halley, was appointed to thecommand of his majesty's ship the Paramour Pink, on an expedition forimproving the knowledge of the longitude, and of the variation of thecompass; and for discovering the unknown lands supposed to lie in thesouthern part of the Atlantic Ocean. In this voyage he determined thelongitude of several places; and, after his return, constructed hisvariation-chart, and proposed a method of observing the longitude at sea, by means of the appulses and occultations of the fixed stars. But, thoughhe so successfully attended to the two first articles of his instructions, he did not find any unknown southern land. [8]

The Dutch, in 1721, fitted out three ships to make discoveries in the SouthPacific Ocean, under the command of Admiral Roggewein. He left the Texel onthe 21st of August, and arriving in that ocean, by going round Cape Horn, discovered Easter Island, probably seen before, though not visited, byDavies;[9] then between 14° 41' and 15° 47' S. Latitude, and between thelongitude of 142° and 150° W. , fell in with several other islands, which Itake to be some of those seen by the late English navigators. He nextdiscovered two islands in latitude 15° S. , longitude 170° W. , which hecalled Baumen's Islands; and, lastly, Single Island, in latitude 13° 41'S. , longitude 171° 30' W. These three islands are, undoubtedly, the samethat Bougainville calls the Isles of Navigators. [10]

In 1738, the French East India Company sent Lozier Bouvet with two ships, the Eagle and Mary, to make discoveries in the South Atlantic Ocean. Hesailed from Port L'Orient on the 19th of July in that year; touched at theisland of St Catherine; and from thence shaped his course towards thesouth-east. 

On the 1st of January, 1739, he discovered land, or what he judged to beland, in latitude 54° S. , longitude 11° E. It will appear in the course ofthe following narrative, that we made several attempts to find this landwithout success. It is, therefore, very probable, that what Bouvet saw wasnothing more than a large ice-island. From hence he stood to the east, in51° of latitude to 35° of E. Longitude: After which the two shipsseparated, one going to the island of Mauritius, and the other returning toFrance. [11]

After this voyage of Bouvet, the spirit of discovery ceased, till hispresent majesty formed a design of making discoveries, and exploring thesouthern hemisphere; and, in the year 1764, directed it to be put inexecution. 

Accordingly Commodore Byron, having under his command the Dolphin andTamer, sailed from the Downs on the 21st of June the same year; and havingvisited the Falkland Islands, passed through the Straits of Magalhaens intothe Pacific Ocean, where he discovered the islands of Disappointment, George's, Prince of Wales's, the isles of Danger, York Island, and ByronIsland. 

He returned to England the 9th of May, 1766, and, in the month of Augustfollowing, the Dolphin was again sent out under the command of CaptainWallis, with the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. 

They proceeded together, till they came to the west end of the Straits ofMagalhaens, and the Great South Sea in sight, where they were separated. 

Captain Wallis directed his course more westerly than any navigator haddone before him in so high a latitude; but met with no land till he gotwithin the tropic, where he discovered the islands of Whitsunday, QueenCharlotte, Egmont, Duke of Gloucester, Duke of Cumberland, Maitea, Otaheite, Eimeo, Tapamanou, How, Scilly, Boscawen, Keppel, and Wallis; andreturned to England in May, 1768. 

His companion Captain Carteret kept a different route, in which hediscovered the islands of Osnaburg, Gloucester, Queen Charlotte's Isles, Carteret's, Gower's, and the strait between New Britain and New Ireland;and returned to England in March, 1769. 

In November, 1766, Commodore Bougainville sailed from France in the frigateLa Boudeuse, with the store-ship L'Etoile. After spending some time on thecoast of Brazil, and at Falkland's Islands, he got into the Pacific Sea bythe Straits of Magalhaens, in January, 1768. 

In this ocean he discovered the Four Facardines, the isle of Lanciers, andHarp Island, which I take to be the same that I afterwards named Lagoon, Thrum Cap, and Bow Island. About twenty leagues farther to the west hediscovered four other islands; afterwards fell in with Maitea, Otaheite, isles of Navigators, and Forlorn Hope, which to him were new discoveries. He then passed through between the Hebrides, discovered the Shoal of Diana, and some others, the land of Cape Deliverance, several islands more to thenorth, passed the north of New Ireland, touched at Batavia, and arrived inFrance in March, 1769. 

This year was rendered remarkable by the transit of the planet Venus overthe sun's disk, a phenomenon of great importance to astronomy; and whichevery-where engaged the attention of the learned in that science. 

In the beginning of the 1768, the Royal Society presented a memorial to hismajesty, setting forth the advantages to be derived from accurateobservations of this transit in different parts of the world; particularlyfrom a set of such observations made in a southern latitude, between the140th and 130th degrees of longitude, west from the Royal Observatory atGreenwich; and that vessels, properly equipped, would be necessary toconvey the observers to their destined stations; but that the society werein no condition to defray the expence of such an undertaking. 

In consequence of this memorial, the Admiralty were directed by his majestyto provide proper vessels for this purpose. Accordingly, the Endeavourbark, which had been built for the coal-trade, was purchased and fitted outfor the southern voyage, and I was honoured with the command of her. TheRoyal Society, soon after, appointed me, in conjunction with Mr CharlesGreen the astronomer, to make the requisite observations on the transit. 

It was at first intended to perform this great, and now a principalbusiness of our voyage, either at the Marquesas, or else at one of thoseislands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, nowbetter known under the name of the Friendly Islands. But while theEndeavour was getting ready for the expedition, Captain Wallis returnedfrom his voyage round the world, in the course of which he had discoveredseveral islands in the South Sea; and, amongst others, Otaheite. Thisisland was preferred to any of those before mentioned, on account of theconveniences it afforded; because its place had been well ascertained, andfound to be extremely well suited to our purpose. 

I was therefore ordered to proceed directly to Otaheite; and afterastronomical observations should be completed, to prosecute the design ofmaking discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, by proceeding to the southas far as the latitude of 40°; then, if I found no land, to proceed to thewest between 40° and 35°, till I fell in with New Zealand, which I was toexplore; and thence to return to England by such route as I should thinkproper. 

In the prosecution of these instructions, I sailed from Deptford the 30thJuly, 1768; from Plymouth the 26th of August, touched at Madeira, Rio deJaneiro, and Straits Le Maire, and entered the South Pacific Ocean by CapeHorn in January the following year. 

I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and in part succeeded;but I made no discovery till I got within the tropic, where I fell in withLagoon Island, Two Groups, Bird Island, Chain Island; and on the 13th ofApril arrived at Otaheite, where I remained three months, during which timethe observations on the transit were made. 

I then left it; discovered and visited the Society Isles and Oheteroa;thence proceeded to the south till I arrived in the latitude of 40° 22', longitude 147° 29' W. ; and, on the 6th of October, fell in with the eastside of New Zealand. 

I continued exploring the coast of this country till the 31st of March, 1770, when I quitted it, and proceeded to New Holland; and having surveyedthe eastern coast of that vast country, which part had not before beenvisited, I passed between its northern extremity and New Guinea, landed onthe latter, touched at the island of Savu, Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope, and St Helena, [12] and arrived in England on the 12th of July, 1771. 

In this voyage I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; the first agentleman of ample fortune; the other an accomplished disciple of Linnæus, and one of the librarians of the British Museum; both of them distinguishedin the learned world, for their extensive and accurate knowledge of naturalhistory. These gentlemen, animated by the love of science, and by a desireto pursue their enquiries in the remote regions I was preparing to visit, desired permission to make a voyage with me. The Admiralty readily compliedwith a request that promised such advantage to the republic of letters. They accordingly embarked with me, and participated in all the dangers andsufferings of our tedious and fatiguing navigation. 

The voyages of Messrs de Surville, Kerguelen, and Marion, of which someaccount is given in the following work, did not come to my knowledge timeenough to afford me any advantage; and as they have not been communicatedto the world in a public way, I can say little about them, or about twoother voyages, which, I am told, have been made by the Spaniards; one toEaster Island in the year 1769, and the other to Otaheite in 1775. [13]

Before I begin my narrative of the expedition entrusted to my care, it willbe necessary to add here some account of its equipment, and of some othermatters equally interesting, connected with my subject. 

Soon after my return home in the Endeavour, it was resolved to equip twoships, to complete the discovery of the Southern Hemisphere. The nature ofthis voyage required ships of a particular construction, and the Endeavourbeing gone to Falkland's Isles as a store-ship, the Navy-board was directedto purchase two such ships as were most suitable for this service. 

At this time various opinions were espoused by different people, touchingthe size and kind of vessels most proper for such a voyage. Some were forhaving large ships, and proposed those of forty guns, or East IndiaCompany's ships. Others preferred large good sailing frigates, or three-decked ships, employed in the Jamaica trade, fitted with round-houses. Butof all that was said and offered to the Admiralty's consideration on thissubject, as far as has come to my knowledge, what, in my opinion, was mostto the purpose, was suggested by the Navy-board. 

As the kind of ships most proper to be employed on discoveries, is a veryinteresting consideration to the adventurers in such undertakings, it maypossibly be of use to those, who, in future, may be so employed, to givehere the purport of the sentiments of the Navy-board thereon, with whom, after the experience of two voyages of three years each, I perfectly agree. 

The success of such undertakings as making discoveries in distant parts ofthe world, will principally depend on the preparations being well adaptedto what ought to be the first considerations, namely, the preservation ofthe adventurers and ships; and this will ever chiefly depend on the kind, the size, and the properties of the ships chosen for the service. 

These primary considerations will not admit of any other that may interferewith the necessary properties of the ships. Therefore, in choosing theships, should any of the most advantageous properties be wanting, and thenecessary room in them, be in any degree diminished, for less importantpurposes, such a step would be laying a foundation for rendering theundertaking abortive in the first instance. 

As the greatest danger to be apprehended and provided against, on a voyageof discovery, especially to the most distant parts of the globe, is that ofthe ship's being liable to be run a-ground on an unknown, desert, orperhaps savage coast; so no consideration should be set in competition withthat of her being of a construction of the safest kind, in which theofficers may, with the least hazard, venture upon a strange coast. A shipof this kind must not be of a great draught of water, yet of a sufficientburden and capacity to carry a proper quantity of provisions andnecessaries for her complement of men, and for the time requisite toperform the voyage. 

She must also be of a construction that will bear to take the ground; andof a size, which in case of necessity, may be safely and conveniently laidon shore, to repair any accidental damage or defect. These properties arenot to be found in ships of war of forty guns, nor in frigates, nor in EastIndia Company's ships, nor in large three-decked West India ships, norindeed in any other but North-country-built ships, or such as are built forthe coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose. 

In such a vessel an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and betterenabled to fulfil his instructions, than he possibly can (or indeed thanwould be prudent for him to attempt) in one of any other _sort_ or _size_. 

Upon the whole, I am firmly of opinion, that no ships are so proper fordiscoveries in distant unknown parts, as those constructed as was theEndeavour, in which I performed my former voyage. For no ships of any otherkind can contain stores and provisions sufficient (in proportion to thenecessary number of men, ) considering the length of time it will benecessary they should last. And, even if another kind of ships could stow asufficiency, yet on arriving at the parts for discovery, they would still, from the nature of their construction and size, be _less fit_ for thepurpose. 

Hence, it may be concluded, so little progress had been hitherto made indiscoveries in the Southern Hemisphere. For all ships which attempted itbefore the Endeavour, were unfit for it; although the officers employed inthem had done the utmost in their power. 

It was upon this consideration that the Endeavour was chosen for thatvoyage. It was to those properties in her that those on board owed theirpreservation; and hence we were enabled to prosecute discoveries in thoseseas so much longer than any other ship ever did, or could do. And, although discovery was not the first object of that voyage, I could ventureto traverse a far greater space of sea, til then unnavigated; to discovergreater tracts of country in high and low south latitudes, and to perseverelonger in exploring and surveying more correctly the extensive coasts ofthose new-discovered countries, than any former navigator perhaps had doneduring one voyage. 

In short, these properties in the ships, with perseverance and resolutionin their commanders, will enable them to execute their orders; to go beyondformer discoverers; and continue to Britain the reputation of taking thelead of nations, in exploring the globe. 

These considerations concurring with Lord Sandwich's opinion on the samesubject, the Admiralty determined to have two such ships as are hererecommended. Accordingly two were purchased of Captain William Hammond ofHull. They were both built at Whitby, by the same person who built theEndeavour, being about fourteen or sixteen months old at the time they werepurchased, and were, in my opinion, as well adapted to the intendedservice, as if they had been built for the purpose. The largest of the twowas four hundred and sixty-two tons burden. She was named Resolution, andsent to Deptford to be equipped. The other was three hundred and thirty-sixtons burden. She was named Adventure, and sent to be equipped at Woolwich. 

It was at first proposed to sheathe them with copper; but on consideringthat copper corrodes the iron-work, especially about the rudder, thisintention was laid aside, and the old method of sheathing and fittingpursued, as being the most secure; for although it is usual to make therudder-bands of the same composition, it is not, however, so durable asiron, nor would it, I am well assured, last out such a voyage as theResolution performed. [14]

Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the effect of copper uponiron-work, it would not be advisable to use it on a voyage of this kind, as, the principal fastenings of the ship being iron, they may be destroyed. 

On the 28th of November, 1771, I was appointed to the command of theResolution; and Tobias Furneaux (who had been second lieutenant withCaptain Wallis) was promoted, on this occasion, to the command of theAdventure. 

_Our Complements of Officers and Men were fixed, as in the followingTable. _

RESOLUTION

_Officers and Men, Officers Names_

Captain (1) James Cook. Lieutenants (3) Rob. P. Cooper, Charles Clerke, Richd. Pickersgill. 

Master (1) Joseph Gilbert. Boatswain (1) James Gray. Carpenter (1) James Wallis. Gunner (1) Robert Anderson. Surgeon (1) James Patten. Master's mates (3)Midshipmen (6)Surgeon's mates (2)Captain's clerk (1)Master at arms (1)Corporal (1)Armourer (1)Ditto mate (1)Sail-maker (1)Boatswain's mate (3)Carpenter's ditto (3)Gunner's ditto (2)Carpenter's crews (4)Cook (1)Ditto mate (1)Quarter-masters (6)Able seamen (45)

MarinesLieutenant (1) John Edgecumbe. Serjeant (1)Corporals (2)Drummer (1)Privates (15)

Total, 112

ADVENTURE

_Officers and Men, Officers Names_

Captain (1) Tobias Furneaux. Lieutenants (3) Joseph Shank, Arthur Kempe. 

Master (1) Peter Fannin. Boatswain (1) Edward Johns. Carpenter (1) William Offord. Gunner (1) Andrew Gloag. Surgeon (1) Thos. Andrews. Master's mate (2)Midshipmen (4)Surgeon's mates (2)Captain's clerk (1)Master at arms (1)Ditto Mate (1)Sail-maker (1)Ditto Mate (1)Boatswain's mate (1)Carpenter's ditto (2)Gunner's ditto (2)Carpenter's crews (1)Cook (4)Ditto mate (1)Quarter-masters (4)Able seamen (33)

MarinesLieutenant (1) James Scott. Serjeant (1)Corporals (1)Drummer (1)Privates (8)

Total, 81

I had all the reason in the world to be perfectly satisfied with the choiceof the officers. The second and third lieutenants, the lieutenant ofmarines, two of the warrant officers, and several of the petty officers, had been with me during the former voyage. The others were men of knownabilities; and all of them, on every occasion, shewed their zeal for theservice in which they were employed, during the whole voyage. 

In the equipping of these ships, they were not confined to ordinaryestablishments, but were fitted in the most complete manner, and suppliedwith every extra article that was suggested to be necessary. 

Lord Sandwich paid an extraordinary attention to this equipment, byvisiting the ships from time to time, to satisfy himself that the whole wascompleted to his wish, and to the satisfaction of those who were to embarkin them. 

Nor were the Navy and Victualling Boards wanting in providing them with thevery best of stores and provisions, and whatever else was necessary for solong a voyage. --Some alterations were adopted in the species of provisionsusually made use of in the navy. That is, we were supplied with wheat inlieu of so much oatmeal, and sugar in lieu of so much oil; and whencompleted, each ship had two years and a half provisions on board, of allspecies. 

We had besides many extra articles, such as _malt, sour krout, saltedcabbage, portable broth, saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, andinspissated juice of wort and beer_. Some of these articles had beforebeen found to be highly antiscorbutic; and others were now sent out ontrial, or by way of experiment;--the inspissated juice of beer and wort, and marmalade of carrots especially. As several of these antiscorbuticarticles are not generally known, a more particular account of them may notbe amiss. 

Of _malt_ is made _sweet wort_, which is given to such persons ashave got the scurvy, or whose habit of body threatens them with it, fromone to five or six pints a-day, as the surgeon sees necessary. 

_Sour krout_ is cabbage cut small, to which is put a little salt, juniper berries, and anniseeds; it is then fermented, and afterwards closepacked in casks; in which state it will keep good a long time. This is awholesome vegetable food, and a great antiscorbutic. The allowance to eachman is two pounds a week, but I increased or diminished their allowance asI thought proper. 

_Salted cabbage_ is cabbage cut to pieces, and salted down in casks, which will preserve it a long time. 

_Portable broth_ is so well known, that it needs no description. Wewere supplied with it both for the sick and well, and it was exceedinglybeneficial. 

_Saloup_ and _rob of lemons_ and _oranges_ were for the sickand scorbutic only, and wholly under the surgeon's care. 

_Marmalade of carrots_ is the juice of yellow carrots, inspissatedtill it is of the thickness of fluid honey, or treacle, which last itresembles both in taste and colour. It was recommended by Baron Storsch, ofBerlin, as a very great antiscorbutic; but we did not find that it had muchof this quality. 

For the _inspissated juice of wort_ and _beer_ we were indebtedto Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners of the victualling office. This gentleman, some years ago, considered that if the juice of malt, either as beer or wort, was inspissated by evaporation, it was probablethis inspissated juice would keep good at sea; and, if so, a supply of beermight be had, at any time, by mixing it with water. Mr Pelham made severalexperiments, which succeeded so well, that the commissioners caused thirty-one half barrels of this juice to be prepared, and sent out with our shipsfor trial; nineteen on board the Resolution, and the remainder on board theAdventure. The success of the experiments will be mentioned in thenarrative, in the order as they were made. 

The frame of a small vessel, twenty tons burthen, was properly prepared, and put on board each of the ships to be set up (if found necessary) toserve as tenders upon any emergency, or to transport the crew, in case theship was lost. 

We were also well provided with fishing-nets, lines, and hooks of everykind for catching of fish. --And, in order to enable us to procurerefreshments, in such inhabited parts of the world as we might touch at, where money was of no value, the Admiralty caused to be put on board boththe ships, several articles of merchandize; as well to trade with thenatives for provisions, as to make them presents to gain their friendshipand esteem. 

Their lordships also caused a number of medals to be struck, the one siderepresenting his majesty, and the other the two ships. These medals were tobe given to the natives of new-discovered countries, and left there astestimonies of our being the first discoverers. 

Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was put on board; tobe given to the seamen whenever it was thought necessary. In short, nothingwas wanting that could tend to promote the success of the undertaking, orcontribute to the conveniences and health of those who embarked in it. 

The Admiralty shewed no less attention to science in general, by engagingMr William Hodges, a landscape painter, to embark in this voyage, in orderto make drawings and paintings of such places in the countries we shouldtouch at, as might be proper to give a more perfect, idea thereof, thancould be formed from written descriptions only. 

And it being thought of public utility, that some person skilled in naturalhistory, should be engaged to accompany me in this voyage, the parliamentgranted an ample sum for the purpose, and Mr John Reinhold Forster, withhis son, were pitched upon for this employment. [15]

The Board of Longitude agreed with Mr William Wales and Mr William Bayley, to make astronomical observations; the former on board the Resolution, andthe latter on board the Adventure. The great improvements which astronomyand navigation have met with from the many interesting observations theyhave made, would have done honour to any person whose reputation formathematical knowledge was not so well known as theirs. 

The same Board furnished them with the best instruments, for making bothastronomical and nautical observations and experiments; and likewise withfour time-pieces, or watch machines; three made by Mr Arnold, and one madeby Mr Kendal on Mr Harrison's principles. A particular account of the goingof these watches, as also the astronomical and nautical observations madeby the astronomers, has been before the public, by order of the Board ofLongitude, under the inspection of Mr Wales. [16]

Besides the obligation I was under to this gentleman for communicating tome the observations he made, from time to time, during the voyage, I havesince been indebted to him for the perusal of his journal, with leave totake from it whatever I thought might contribute to the improvement of thiswork. 

For the convenience of the generality of readers, I have reduced the timefrom the nautical to the civil computation, so that whenever the terms A. M. And P. M. Are used, the former signifies the forenoon, and the latter theafternoon of the same day. 

In all the courses, bearings, &c. , the variation of the compass is allowed, unless the contrary is expressed. And now it may be necessary to say, that, as I am on the point of sailing on a third expedition, I leave this accountof my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who, in my absence, havekindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me; who are pleasedto think that what I have here to relate is better to be given in my ownwords, than in the words of another person; especially as it is a workdesigned for information, and not merely for amusement; in which, it istheir opinion, that candour and fidelity will counter-balance the want ofornament. [17]

I shall therefore conclude this introductory discourse with desiring thereader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he willfrequently meet with in the following narrative; and that, when such occur, he will recollect that it is the production of a man, who has not had theadvantage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea fromhis youth; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he haspassed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprenticeboy in the coal trade, to a post-captain in the royal navy, he has had noopportunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myself, thepublic must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or theplausibility of a professed book-maker; but will, I hope, consider me as aplain man, zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, anddetermined to give the best account he is able of his proceedings. [18]

JAMES COOK. 

_Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776. _

 [1] It is scarcely conceivable, that any men of science in the end of the 18th century, should have insisted on mathematical reasons for the supposition of a southern counterpoise; and therefore, as is mentioned by Mr Wales, in his introduction to the account of the astronomical observations made during this voyage, it must be held, that the opinion which induced his majesty to order the voyage, for the purpose of discovering a continent or large islands towards the South Pole, was founded on mere probability. That there is no necessity for such an existence, is very certain, for the preservation of the earth's motion on its axis can be readily accounted for without it; yet, reasoning from analogy, and considering the successful experiment of Columbus, there seemed sufficient grounds, independent of the alleged discoveries of Bouvet and others, to expect that some lands might be found there. After this, it required little additional excitement of fancy to believe, that if there, and if found, they might be no less important to the discoverers, than America was judged to be to the Spaniards. Men are not easily cured of their prejudices, when the foundations on which they are built, derive validity from the hope of interest. It is impossible to tell what kind and degree of advantages, certain sanguine specialists anticipated from the Terra Australis. Excepting the article of the prolongation of life _ad infinitum_, it is questionable, if the philosopher's stone, when discovered, could have accomplished more; and even with respect to that, it might have been imagined, that the soil and climate would so materially differ from any other before known, as to yield some sovereign elixir or plant of life-giving efficacy. That it was charitably hoped, they would be no less serviceable in another particular, of perhaps fully greater consequence, may be inferred from a passage in Dr Hawkesworth's reply to Mr Dalrymple, appended to his Account of Cook's First Voyage, &c. , second edition. "I am very sorry, " says he, "for the discontented state of this good gentleman's mind, and most sincerely wish that a southern continent may be found, as I am confident _nothing else can make him happy and good-humoured!_" Mr Dalrymple seems to have set no bounds to his expectations from the discovery, and accordingly thought that no bounds ought to be set to the endeavours to accomplish it. Witness the very whimsical _negative_ and _affirmative_ dedication of his Historical Collection of Voyages, &c. "Not to, &c. &c. , but to the man, who, emulous of Magalhaens and the heroes of former times, _undeterred_ by difficulties, and _unseduced_ by pleasure, shall persist through every obstacle, and not by chance, but by virtue and good conduct, _succeed in establishing an intercourse_ with a southern continent, &c!", A zeal so red-hot as this, could scarcely be cooled down to any thing like common sense, on one of the fields of ice encountered by Cook in his second voyage; but what a pity it is, that it should not be accompanied by as much of the inventive faculty, as might serve to point out how impossibilities can be performed, and insuperable obstructions removed! It is but justice to this gentleman to say, that his willingness to undertake such a task, was as enthusiastic as his idea of its magnitude and importance. His industry, besides, in acquiring information in this department of science, and his liberality in imparting it, were most exemplary. On the whole, therefore, saving the circumstances of fortune and success, he may be ranked with any of the heroes of former times!

 It would be well to remember, that the Deity is not bound to act according to our notions of fitness; and that though it may not always be easiest, yet it is certainly most modest to form our theories from a survey of his works, rather than the nursery of our own prejudices. The following observations may be of utility to some readers. The motion of the earth about its axis is uniform, and quite unaffected by the irregularities on its surface or of its density. This is a fact to be admitted, not an opinion to be proved. But in point of reasoning, it is quite demonstrable, that the highest mountain on the surface of the earth, bears no larger a proportion to the magnitude of the earth, than a grain of sand does to that of one of our largest globes, and can have no more effect on its motion: Besides, as is noticed by Mr Wales, every body will be _in equilibrio_, however irregular, when it is suspended or revolves on a line passing through its centre of gravity, and will not have either its rest or motion disturbed by any irregularities lying in the direction of that line, which may be safely supposed the case with our earth. The simple addition of any fluid matter to a body so circumstanced, will not cause any aberration, as it will distribute itself in the parts nearest to the centre of gravity, without regard to the centre of the body, which may or may not be the same. The principal tracts of both land and sea may be held to extend from the North towards the South Pole, and are accordingly in the direction of the earth's axis. Obviously, therefore, there is no necessity for a southern continent to answer as a counterpoise; and it is even conceivable that the matter in the regions of the South Pole, is specifically lighter than that of any other part, in perfect consistency with what is known of the earth's motion. The reasons of a different kind from what have now been mentioned, for the existence of southern lands, fall to be elsewhere considered. --E. 

 [2] An account of the voyage performed by Magalhaens, is given in vol. X. Of this collection. The discoveries made by that enterprising man in the South Pacific Ocean, were far from being very important; but the expedition in which he unfortunately lost his life, will ever be memorable in the pages of history, as the first circumnavigation of the world. --E. 

 [3] Mr Dalrymple has collected together the few existing notices of Spanish voyages of discovery, betwixt the times of those performed by Magalhaens and Mendana. Though by no means considerable in bulk, they are too numerous to be detailed in this place. It is very probable, that the Spanish government continued from mere habit to reserve the more perfect memorials, after all the views of policy which first occasioned their being withheld from the public, had been abandoned. The affairs of that ill-fated kingdom have been long very unfavourable to the investigations, which certainly unimportant curiosity might prompt on the subject--E. 

 [4] Two relations have been given of Mendana's voyage; one by Quiros above-mentioned, in a letter to Don Antonio Morga, lieutenant-general of the Phillipines, when Quiros landed at Manila, which was inserted in a work published at Mexico in 1609; and the other contained in Thevenot's French collection, being, as Mr Dalrymple has remarked, a transcript from Figueroa's history of Garcia Hurtado de Mendoça, and of less authority. The discoveries of Quiros, real and supposed, have attracted very peculiar notice, and deservedly so. Almost every collection specifies them. That which the president de Brosses has given on the authority of several Spanish works, has been generally followed. Mr Dalrymple is earnest in securing to this _immortal_ name, the honour of discovering the southern continent. It is most certain that he did discover something in the Pacific Ocean, but it never yet has been shewn, that this something any way corresponds with the wonderful description he thought proper to give of it, in his memorial to the Spanish king. "Its longitude, " says he, (we copy from Mr Dalrymple's translation) "is as much as that of all Europe, Asia- Minor, and to the Caspian Sea, and Persia, with all the islands of the Mediterranean and Ocean, which are in its limits embraced, including England and Ireland. That _unknown_ part is a quarter of the whole globe, and so capacious, that it may contain in it double the kingdoms and provinces of all those your majesty is at present Lord of: And that without adjoining to Turks or Moors, or others of the nations which are accustomed to disquiet and disturb their neighbours!" This was a discoverer after our own heart, worth a dozen or two of Ansons, Byrons, and Cooks! Amongst his real discoveries must be particularly regarded the Tierra del Espirito Santo above- mentioned, which was visited by Bougainville in 1768, and called by him the New Cyclades, a name since supplanted by that which Cook gave, the New Hebrides. --E. 

 [5] See our account of this voyage in vol. X. It was perhaps more fruitful in discoveries of islands, than any preceding expedition, and was remarkable, besides, for the small loss of lives during its continuance, viz. Only three men. The interesting enough discovery of the Strait which bears the name of Le Maire, would have been sufficient to signalize the spirited undertaking of that merchant. Nor can it be any thing to _his_ discredit, considering his circumstances and profession, that he had his golden dreams about a southern counterpoise. Technical habits might readily suggest to him the propriety of an exact balance. --E. 

 [6] A note has been given in vol. Xiii. Respecting Tasman's voyage. His discoveries were undoubtedly of some importance, and deserve particular notice in a collection; as such, an opportunity, it is expected, will occur for effecting it, either entire from Valentyn's relation, or in abstract from various authorities. --E. 

 [7] See what has been said on this subject in our account of Byron's voyage, vol. Xii. P. 47. --E. 

 [8] The results of Dr Halley's voyage were communicated to the Royal Society of London, and constitute part, certainly an interesting part, of their published papers. If is rather to be wondered at, that Cook has not made mention of some other voyages of discovery about this period, especially Dampier's, of which, as well as of some more, the reader will find an account in our 10th volume. --E. 

 [9] See Waifer's description of the Isthmus of Darien. 

 [10] See our relation of Commodore Roggewein's voyage in the 11th vol. Of this Collection. --E. 

 [11] It seems impossible to doubt for a moment, the validity of Cook's evidence against Bouvet's alleged discovery of land, above alluded to. In the present day, there is nothing like a whisper insinuated to its disparagement; and accordingly the name of Bouvet is never mentioned as a discoverer. The reader need scarcely be reminded of the position which our accounts of the following voyage occupy in this Collection, viz. The 12th and 13th volumes. --E. 

 [12] Footnote in the 1st ed. In the account given of St Helena in the narrative of my former voyage, I find two mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton cruelty over their slaves, and they have had wheel-carriages and porters' knots for many years. 

 [13] A satisfactory account of Surville's Voyage is given in Berenger's Collection, vol. Vi. Published at Paris, 1790, of which, if our limits allow it, we may furnish the reader with an abstract. It is remarkable, as being partly planned by the celebrated Law of Lauriston. A relation of Kerguelen's voyage, which was made in 1771, 2, and 3, was published at Paris in 1781, and, according to the Bib. Univ. Des Voy. Is become scarce. The writer is quite ignorant of its value. Marion was killed by the savages of New Zealand; after his death, the voyage was carried on by M. Ducleneur, under whom the principal observations were made in the South Sea. The account of this voyage was published at Paris in 1783. The reader will easily believe, therefore, that Captain Cook could not have profited by any of these three expeditions. --E. 

 [14] Till the discovery of what has been denominated Galvanism, it was difficult, if not impossible, to explain the circumstance alluded to in the text, that copper corrodes the iron work of vessels. Now, it is thought there is no mystery in the matter. But, in truth, we have only been enabled by more certain observation to classify the fact with several others of a like nature, and all perhaps equally inexplicable. The application of new names to old things, will scarcely pass with any philosopher, for a discovery. On the other hand, it is certain, that the invention of means by which new powers are produced, is justly entitled to that distinction. It is impossible to withhold this praise from Galvani and some of his followers. --E. 

 [15] Both of these gentlemen published works respecting this second voyage of Cook, to which we shall have occasion to refer in the notes. That of the former is entitled, "Observations made during a Voyage round the World, on Physical Geography, Natural History, and Ethic Philosophy, &c. , " and was published at London in 1778, 4to. ; that of the latter is, properly speaking, a full relation of the voyage, and appeared in two volumes 4to. , at London, the year before. There is good reason for saying. That no account of this voyage can be held complete, that is not materially aided by these two productions, which, with sundry imperfections, and perhaps _vices_, have very great merit, and are highly interesting. They are accordingly, as well as the work of Mr Wales, freely used for the purpose of this collection. --E. 

 [16] Many readers may desire to know what kind of instruments Captain Cook alludes to above. The following list is taken from Mr Wales's work, which, from the nature of it, has been rarely looked into by any but scientific men. 

 1. A portable observatory. 2. An astronomical clock, made by Mr Shelton. 3. An assistant clock, made by Mr Monk. 4. A transit instrument, made by Mr Bird. 5. An astronomical quadrant, by the same excellent artist. 6. A reflecting telescope, of two feet focal length, by ditto. 7. An achromatic refracting telescope, of three and a half feet, and triple object glass, made by Mr Dollond. 8. A Hadley's sextant, by ditto. 9. Another, by Mr Ramsden. 10. An azimuth compass, by Mr Adams. 11. A pair of globes, by ditto. 12. A dipping needle, by Mr Nairne. I3. A marine barometer, by ditto. 14. A wind gage, invented by Dr Lind of Edinburgh, and made by Mr Nairne. 15. Two portable barometers, made by Mr Burton. 16. Six thermometers, by ditto. 17. A theodolite, with a level, and a Gunter's chain, by ditto. 18. An apparatus for trying the heat of the sea-water at different depths. 19. Two time-keepers, one made by Mr Larcum Kendal, on Mr Harrison's principles, and the other by Mr John Arnold. 

 Mr Wales has particularly described some of these instruments, and the mode of using them. He has, besides, given a very interesting, though short history of the application of astronomical instruments to navigation, a summary of which, with some additional remarks, could scarcely fail to be valued by any reader concerned for the promotion of useful science. This, accordingly, it is purposed to insert whenever a proper opportunity occurs. It might seem rather a hindrance in this place. --E. 

 [17] The opinion stated in the memoir of Cook, in the Biographia Britannica, as to his appearance in the character of an author, perfectly concurs with what the writer has elsewhere said on the subject; and it may deserve a place here, as a commendatory testimony, which the modesty of Cook, it is probable, would scarcely have allowed himself to expect. It is inserted, besides, with greater propriety, as specifying one of the friends alluded to, of whom, in the capacity of editor of Cook's third voyage, we shall have another opportunity of speaking with the esteem due to his literary character, and his most praise-worthy exertions in the service of both Cook and his family. "Captain Cook was justly regarded as sufficiently qualified to relate his own story. His journal only required to be divided into chapters, and perhaps to be amended by a few verbal corrections. It is not speaking extravagantly to say, that, in point of composition, his history of his voyage reflects upon him no small degree of credit. His style is natural, clear, and manly; being well adapted to the subject and to his own character: and it is possible, that a pen of more studied elegance would not have given any additional advantage to the narration. It was not till some time after Captain Cook's leaving England, that the work was published; but, in the meanwhile, the superintendance of it was undertaken by his learned and valuable friend, Dr Douglas, whose late promotion to the mitre hath afforded pleasure to every literary man of every denomination. " One cannot help regretting, that Cook never returned to meet with the congratulations of a highly-satisfied public, not invidiously disposed, it may readily be imagined, and certainly having no occasion, to see any necessity for the requested indulgences with which he concludes this introduction. --E. 

 [18] Is it not both likely and somewhat allowable, that Cook should speak of the _fine writer_ and _professed book-maker_, with a feeling of disgust or irritation; more especially when he could not but well remember, that his own simple personality had been made the substratum for the flippant flourish of the one character, and the unseemly protuberances of the other?--E. 

CHAPTER I. [1]

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES THE FIRSTTIME. 

SECTION I. 

_Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account ofseveral Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there. _

I sailed from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich, where I was detained by easterly winds till the 23d, when the ship felldown to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here bothships received on board their powder, guns, gunners' stores, and marines. 

On the 10th of May we left Long Reach, with orders to touch at Plymouth;but in plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank, which made it necessary to put into Sheerness in order to remove this evil, by making some alteration in her upper works. These the officers of theyard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich and SirHugh Palliser came down to see them executed in such a manner as mighteffectually answer the purpose intended. 

On the 22d of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed fromSheerness; and on the 3d of July joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augustayacht, (who was on his return from visiting the several dock-yards, ) withthe Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his lordship with seventeenguns; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of thevery great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board, to satisfy themselves that every thing was done to my wish, and that theship was found to answer to my satisfaction. 

At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June, directingme to take under my command the Adventure; to make the best of my way tothe island of Madeira, there to take in a supply of wine, and then proceedto the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships' companies, andto take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might stand in needof. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceed to the southward, and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by MonsieurBouvet to lie in the latitude of 54° S. And in about 11° 20' E. Longitudefrom Greenwich. If I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whetherit was a part of the continent which had so much engaged the attention ofgeographers and former navigators, or a part of an island. If it proved tobe the former, I was to employ myself diligently in exploring as great anextent of it as I could, and to make such notations thereon, andobservations of every kind, as might be useful either to navigation orcommerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was alsodirected to observe the genius, temper, disposition, and number of theinhabitants, if there were any, and endeavour, by all proper means, tocultivate a friendship and alliance with them; making them presents of suchthings as they might value; inviting them to traffic, and shewing themevery kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myself onthis service, and making discoveries either to the eastward or westward, asmy situation might render most eligible; keeping in as high a latitude as Icould, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole aspossible, so long as the condition of the ships, the health of their crews, and the state of their provisions, would admit of; taking care to reserveas much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where Iwas to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if CapeCircumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should notbe able to find the said Cape, I was in the first case to make thenecessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward, solong as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the continent, which I was also to do in the latter case, and then to proceed to theeastward in further search of the said continent, as well as to makediscoveries of such islands as might be situated in that unexplored part ofthe southern hemisphere; keeping in high latitudes, and prosecuting mydiscoveries, as above mentioned, as near the pole as possible until I hadcircumnavigated the globe; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of GoodHope, and from thence to Spithead. 

In the prosecution of these discoveries, wherever the season of the yearrendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire tosome known place to the northward, to refresh my people, and refit theships; and to return again to the southward as soon as the season of theyear would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised toproceed according to my own discretion; and in case the Resolution shouldbe lost or disabled, I was to prosecute the voyage on board the Adventure. 

I gave a copy of these instructions to Captain Furneaux, with an orderdirecting him to carry them into execution; and, in case he was separatedfrom me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous;Port Praya in the island of St Jago for the second; Cape of Good Hope forthe third; and New Zealand for the fourth. 

During our stay at Plymouth, Messrs Wales and Bayley, the two astronomers, made observations on Drake's Island, in order to ascertain the latitude, longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces and watches in motion. The latitude was found to be 50° 21' 30" N. , and the longitude 4° 20' W. OfGreenwich, which, in this voyage, is every where to be understood as thefirst meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned east and west to180° each way. On the 10th of July the watches were set a-going in thepresence of the two astronomers, Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants ofthe ships, and myself, and put on board. The two on board the Adventurewere made by Mr Arnold, and also one of those on board the Resolution; butthe other was made by Mr Kendal, upon the same principle, in every respect, as Mr Harrison's time-piece. The commander, first lieutenant, andastronomer, on board each, of the ships, kept each of them keys of theboxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at thewinding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or some otherofficer, if at any time, through indisposition, or absence upon any othernecessary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The same day, according to the custom of the navy, the companies of both ships were paidtwo months wages in advance, and, as a further encouragement for theirgoing this extraordinary voyage, they were also paid the wages due to themto the 28th of the preceding May. This enabled them to provide necessariesfor the voyage. 

On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth Sound, with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th anchored inFunchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. The next morning I saluted thegarrison with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately returned. Soonafter I went on shore, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, the two MrForsters, and Mr Wales. At our landing, we were received by a gentlemanfrom the vice-consul, Mr Sills, who conducted us to the house of MrLoughnans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. Thisgentleman not only obtained leave for Mr Forster to search the island forplants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and insisted on ouraccommodating ourselves at his house during our stay. 

The town of Funchiale, which is the capital of the island, is situatedabout the middle of the south side, in the bottom of the bay of the samename, in latitude 32° 33' 34" N. , longitude 17° 12-7/8" W. The longitudewas deduced from lunar observations made by Mr Wales, and reduced to thetown by Mr Kendal's watch, which made the longitude 17° 10' 14" W. Duringour stay here, the crews of both ships were supplied with fresh beef andonions; and a quantity of the latter was distributed amongst them for asea-store. 

Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we leftMadeira on the 1st of August, and stood to the southward with a fine galeat N. E. On the 4th we passed Palma, one of the Canary isles. It is of aheight to be seen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies in the latitude 28°38' N. , longitude 17° 58' W. The next day we saw the isle of Ferro, andpassed it at the distance of fourteen leagues. I judged it to lie in thelatitude of 27° 42' N. And longitude 18° 9' W. [2]

I now made three puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt. Theproportion I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen ofthe nineteen half barrels of the inspissated juice which we had on board, were produced from wort that was hopped before inspissated. The other fourwere made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented beforeinspissated. This last requires no other preparation to make it fit foruse, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight to one part intwelve of water, (or in such other proportion as might be liked, ) then stopit down, and in a few days it will be brisk and drinkable. But the othersort, after being mixed with water in the same manner, will require to befermented with yeast, in the usual way of making beer; at least it was sothought. However, experience taught us that this will not always benecessary: For by the heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship, both sorts were at this time in the highest state of fermentation, and hadhitherto evaded all our endeavours to stop it. If this juice could be keptfrom fermenting, it certainly would be a most valuable article at sea. [3]

On finding that our stock of water would not last as to the Cape of GoodHope, without putting the people to a scanty allowance, I resolved to stopat St Jago for a supply. On the 9th, at nine o'clock in the morning, wemade the island of Bonavista, bearing S. W. The next day, we passed the isleof Mayo on our right; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya in theisland of St Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The east point of the bay boreE. ; the west point S. W. 1/2 S. ; and the fort N. W. I immediately dispatchedan officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments, which wasgranted. On the return of the officer, I saluted the fort with eleven guns, on a promise of its being returned with an equal number. But by a mistake, as they pretended, the salute was returned with only nine; for which thegovernor made an excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening, havingcompleted our water, and got on board a supply of refreshments, such ashogs, goats, fowls, and fruit, we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage. 

Port Praya is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side ofthe island of St Jago, in the latitude of 14° 53' 30" N. Longitude 23° 30'W. It may be known, especially in coming from the east, by the southernmosthill on the island, which is round, and peaked at top; and lies a littleway inland, in the direction of west from the port. This mark is the morenecessary, as there is a small cove about a league to the eastward, with asandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley, and cocoa-nut trees behind, which strangers may mistake for Port Praya, as we ourselves did. The twopoints which form the entrance of Port Praya Bay are rather low, and in thedirection of W. S. W. And E. N. E. Half a league from each other. Close to thewest point are sunken rocks, on which the sea continually breaks. The baylies in N. W. Near half a league; and the depth of water is from fourteen tofour fathoms. Large ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in whichdepth the south end of the Green Island (a small island lying under thewest shore) will bear W. You water at a well that is behind the beach atthe head of the bay. The water is tolerable, but scarce; and bad gettingoff, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be gothere, are bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats areof the antelope kind, so extraordinarily lean, that hardly any thing canequal them; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep, are not much better. Bullocks must be purchased with money; the price is twelve Spanish dollarsa-head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may be got fromthe natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. But the sale of bullocks isconfined to a company of merchants; to whom this privilege is granted, andwho keep an agent residing upon the spot. [4] The fort above mentioned seemswholly designed for the protection of the bay, and is well situated forthat purpose, being built on an elevation, which rises directly from thesea on the right, at the head of the bay. 

We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a fresh gale atN. N. E. Which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. But the nextday the wind and showers abated, and veered to the S. It was, however, variable and unsettled for several days, accompanied with dark gloomyweather, and showers of rain. [5]

On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting in one of the scuttles, fromwhence it is supposed he had fallen; for he was not seen till the veryinstant he sunk under the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save himwere too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was asober man and a good workman. About noon the next day, the rain poured downupon us, not in drops but in streams. The wind, at the same time, wasvariable and squally, which obliged the people to attend the decks, so thatfew in the ships escaped a good soaking. We, however, benefited by it, asit gave us an opportunity of filling all our empty water-casks. This heavyrain at last brought on a dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours, when it was succeeded by a breeze from S. W. Betwixt this point and S. Itcontinued for several days; and blew at times in squalls, attended withrain and hot sultry weather. The mercury in the thermometers at noon, keptgenerally from 79 to 82. [6]

On the 27th, spoke with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of hispetty officers was dead. At this time _we_ had not one sick on board, although we had every thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had had, which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. To prevent this, andagreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser and from CaptainCampbell, I took every necessary precaution by airing and drying the shipwith fires made betwixt decks, smoaking, &c. And by obliging the people toair their bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was anopportunity. A neglect of these things causeth a disagreeable smell below, affects the air, and seldom fails to bring on sickness, but more especiallyin hot and wet weather. 

We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly farfrom land; that is, man-of-war and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land, however, that we knew of, could be nearer than eighty leagues. 

On the 3Oth at noon, being in the latitude of 2° 35' N. , longitude 7° 30'W. , and the wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked andstretched to the S. W. In the latitude of 0° 52' N. , longitude 9° 25' W. , wehad one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying the current in aboat. We found it set to the north one-third of a mile an hour. We hadreason to expect this from the difference we frequently found between theobserved latitude, and that given by the log; and Mr Kendal's watch shewedus that it set to the east also. This was fully confirmed by the lunarobservations; when it appeared that we were 3° 0' more to the east than thecommon reckoning. At the time of trying the current, the mercury in thethermometer in the open air stood at 75-1/2; and when immerged in thesurface of the sea, at 74; but when immerged eighty fathoms deep (where itremained fifteen minutes) when it came up, the mercury stood at 66. [7] Atthe same time we sounded, without out finding the bottom, with a line oftwo hundred and fifty fathoms. 

The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S. W. , which kept veering bylittle and little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south, attended with clear serene weather. At length, on the 8th of September, wecrossed the Line in the longitude of 8° W. ; after which, the ceremony ofducking, &c. , generally practised on this occasion, was not omitted. 

The wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle top-gallant gale, in eight days it carried us into the latitude 9° 30' S. , longitude 18° W. The weather was pleasant; and we daily saw some of thosebirds which are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land; such asboobies, man of war, tropic birds, and gannets. We supposed they came fromthe isle of St Matthew, or Ascension; which isles we must have passed at nogreat distance. 

On the 27th, in the latitude of 25° 29', longitude 24° 54', we discovered asail to the west standing after us. She was a snow; and the colours sheshewed, either a Portuguese or St George's ensign, the distance being toogreat to distinguish the one from the other, and I did not choose to waitto get nearer, or to speak with her. 

The wind now began to be variable. It first veered to the north, where itremained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the westto the south, where it remained two days longer, and, after a few hourscalm, sprung up at S. W. But here it remained not long, before it veered toS. E. E. And to the north of east; blew fresh, and by squalls, with showersof rain. 

With these winds we advanced but slowly; and, without meeting with anythingremarkable till the 11th of October, when, at 6h 24m 12s, by Mr Kendal'swatch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed, and soon after we preparedto observe the end of the eclipse, as follows, viz. 

 h. M. S. 

By me at 6 53 51 with a common refractor. By Mr Forster 6 55 23By Mr Wales 6 54 57 quadrant telescope. By Mr Pickersgill 6 55 30 three feet refractor. By Mr Gilert 6 53 24 naked eye. By Mr Hervey 6 55 34 quadrant telescope. ---------Mean 6 54 46-1/2 by the watch. Watch slow of apparent time 0 3 59 ---------Apparent time 6 58 45-1/2 end of the eclipse. Ditto 7 25 0 at Greenwich. ---------Dif. Of longitude 0 26 14-1/2 == 6° 33' 30"

 The longitude observed by Mr Wales, was

By the [Symbol: Moon] and Aquilae 5° 51' |By the [Symbol: Moon] and Adebaran 6° 35 |Mean 6° 13' 0"By Mr Kendal's watch 6° 53 7/8

The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try ifthere was any current, but found none. From this time to the 16th, we hadthe wind between the north and east, a gentle gale. We had for some timeceased to see any of the birds before-mentioned; and were now accompaniedby albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c. , and a small grey peterel, lessthan a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with a black strokeacross from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. These birdssometimes visited us in great flights. They are, as well as the pintadoes, southern birds; and are, I believe, never seen within the tropics, or northof the Line. 

On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N. W. , standing to the eastward, whichhoisted Dutch colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third weoutsailed her. [8]

On the 21st, at 7h. 30m. 20s. A, m. , our longitude, by the mean of twoobserved distances of the sun and moon, was 8° 4' 30" E. , Mr Kendal's watchat the same time gave 7° 22'. Our latitude was 35° 20' N. The wind was noweasterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it veered to N. And N. W. After some hours calm; in which we put a boat in the water, and Mr Forstershot some albatrosses and other birds, on which we feasted the next day, and found them exceedingly good. At the same time we saw a seal, or, assome thought, a sea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one ofthe isles of Tristian de Cunhah, being now nearly in their latitude, andabout 5° east of them. 

The wind continued but two days at N. W. And S. W. ; then veered to the S. E. , where it remained two days longer; then fixed at N. W. , which carried us toour intended port. As we approached the land, the sea-fowl, which hadaccompanied us hitherto, began to leave us; at least they did not come insuch numbers. Nor did we see gannets, or the black bird, commonly calledthe Cape Hen, till we were nearly within sight of the Cape. Nor did westrike sounding till Penguin Island bore N. N. E. , distant two or threeleagues, where we had fifty fathom water. Not but that the soundings mayextend farther off. However, I am very sure that they do not extend veryfar west from the Cape. For we could not find ground with a line of 210fathoms, twenty-five leagues west of Table-Bay; the same at thirty-fiveleagues, and at sixty-four leagues. I sounded these three times, in orderto find a bank, which, I had been told, lies to the west of the cape; buthow far I never could learn. 

I was told before I left England, by some gentlemen who were well enoughacquainted with the navigation between England and the Cape of Good Hope, that I sailed at an improper season of the year; and that I should meetwith much calm weather, near and under the Line. This probably may be thecase some years. It is, however, not general. On the contrary, we hardlymet with any calms; but a brisk S. W. Wind in those very latitudes where thecalms are expected. Nor did we meet with any of those tornadoes, so muchspoken of by other navigators. However, what they have said of the currentsetting towards the coast of Guinea, as you approach that shore, is true. For, from the time of our leaving St Jago, to our arrival into the latitudeof 1-1/2° N. , which was eleven days, we were carried by the current 3° oflongitude more east than our reckoning. On the other hand, after we hadcrossed the Line, and got the S. E. Trade-wind, we always found, byobservation, that the ship outstripped the reckoning, which we judged to beowing to a current setting between the south and west. But, upon the whole, the currents in this run seemed to balance each other; for upon our arrivalat the Cape, the difference of longitude by dead reckoning kept fromEngland, without once being corrected, was only three quarters of a degreeless than that by observation. 

At two in the afternoon on the 29th, we made the land of the Cape of GoodHope. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore E. S. E. , distance twelve or fourteen leagues. At this time it was a good dealobscured by clouds, otherwise it might, from its height, have been seen ata much greater distance. We now crowded all the sail we could, thinking toget into the bay before dark. But when we found this could not beaccomplished, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on. Between eight and nine o'clock, the whole sea, within the compass of oursight, became at once, as it were illuminated; or, what the seamen call, all on fire. This appearance of the sea, in some degree, is very common;but the cause is not so generally known. Mr Banks and Dr Solander hadsatisfied me that it was occasioned by sea-insects. Mr Forster, however, seemed not to favour this opinion. I therefore had some buckets of waterdrawn up from alongside the ship, which we found full of an innumerablequantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's-head, and quite transparent. There was no doubt of their being living animals, when in their own proper element, though we could not perceive any life inthem: Mr Forster, whose province it is more minutely to describe things ofthis nature, was now well satisfied with the cause of the sea'sillumination. [9]

At length day-light came and brought us fair weather; and having stood intoTable Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five fathom water. We afterwards moored N. E. And S. W. , Green Point on the west point of thebay, bearing N. W. By W. , and the church, in one with the valley between theTable Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf, or Lion's Head, bearing S. W. By S. , anddistant from the landing-place near the fort, one mile. 

We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the captain of the port, or master-attendant, some other officers belonging to the company, and MrBrandt. This last gentleman brought us off such things as could not fail ofbeing acceptable to persons coming from sea. The purport of the masterattendant's visit was, according to custom, to take an account of theships; to enquire into the health of the crews; and, in particular, if thesmall-pox was on board; a thing they dread, above all others, at the Cape, and for these purposes a surgeon is always one of the visitants. 

My first step after anchoring, was, to send an officer to wait on BaronPlettenberg, the governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and thereasons which induced me to put in there. To this the officer received avery polite answer; and, upon his return, we saluted the garrison witheleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after I went on shoremyself, and waited upon the governor, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, andthe two Mr Forsters. He received us, with very great politeness, andpromised me every assistance the place could afford. From him I learnedthat two French ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, haddiscovered land, in the latitude of 48° S. , and in the meridian of thatisland, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay intowhich they were about to enter, when they were driven off and separated ina hard gale of wind, after having lost some of their boats and people, which they had sent to sound the bay. One of the ships, viz. The LaFortune, soon after arrived at the Mauritius, the captain of which was senthome to France with an account of the discovery. The governor also informedme, that in March last, two other French ships from the island ofMauritius, touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean;where they were going to make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion. Aotourou, the man M. De Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to havereturned with M. Marion, had he been living. 

After having visited the governor and some other principal persons of theplace, we fixed ourselves at Mr Brandt's, the usual residence of mostofficers belonging to English ships. This gentleman spares neither troublenor expence to make his house agreeable to those who favour him with theircompany, and to accommodate them with every thing they want. With him Iconcerted measures for supplying the ships with provisions, and all othernecessaries they wanted; which he set about procuring without delay, whilethe seamen on board were employed in overhauling the rigging; and thecarpenters in caulking the ships' sides and decks, &c. 

Messrs Wales and Bayley got all their instruments on shore, in order tomake astronomical observations for ascertaining the going of the watches, and other purposes. The result of some of these observations shewed, thatMr Kendal's watch had answered beyond all expectation, by pointing out thelongitude of this place to within one minute of time to what it wasobserved by Messrs Mason and Dixon in 1761. 

Three or four days after us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland;after a passage of between four and five months, in which one lost, by thescurvy and other putrid diseases, 150 men, and the other 41. They sent, ontheir arrival, great numbers to the hospital in very dreadfulcircumstances. It is remarkable that one of these ships touched at PortPraya, and left it a month before we arrived there; and yet we got herethree days before her. The Dutch at the Cape having found their hospitaltoo small for the reception of their sick, were going to build a new one atthe east part of the town; the foundation of which was laid with greatceremony while we were there. 

By the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, Ithought to have made my stay at the Cape very short. But, as the bread wewanted was unbaked, and the spirit, which I found scarce, to be collectedfrom different parts out of the country, it was the 18th of November beforewe had got every thing on board, and the 22d before we could put to sea. During this stay the crews of both ships were served every day with freshbeef or mutton, new-baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. Theships were caulked and painted; and, in every respect, put in as good acondition as when they left England. Some alterations in the officers tookplace in the Adventure. Mr Shank the first lieutenant having been in an illstate of health ever since we sailed from Plymouth, and not finding himselfrecover here, desired my leave to quit, in order to return home for the re-establishment of his health. As his request appeared to be well-founded, Igranted him leave accordingly, and appointed Mr Kemp, first lieutenant inhis room, and Mr Burney, one of my midshipmen, second, in the room of MrKemp. 

Mr Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of natural historyand botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr Sparman, who understoodsomething of these sciences, having studied under Dr Linnæus. He beingwilling to embark with us, Mr Forster strongly importuned me to take him onboard, thinking that he would be of great assistance to him in the courseof the voyage. I at last consented, and he embarked with us accordingly, asan assistant to Mr Forster, who bore his expences on board, and allowed hima yearly stipend besides. [10]

Mr Hodges employed himself here in drawing a view of the Cape, town, andparts adjacent, in oil colours, which, was properly packed up with someothers, and left with Mr Brandt, in order to be forwarded to the Admiraltyby the first ship that should sail for England. 

 [1] The reader is desired to remember, that F. Placed at a note refers to Forster's Observations; G. F. To the younger Forster's Account of the Voyage; and W. To Mr Wales' works. For notes signed E. The editor, as formerly, must hold himself responsible. Thus much was thought advisable to save unnecessary repetition. This opportunity is taken of stating some circumstances respecting the two former works, of consequence to the parties concerned, and not uninteresting to the general reader. We are informed in the preface to G. F. 's work, that when his father was sent out to accompany Captain Cook as a naturalist, no particular rules were prescribed for his conduct, as they who appointed him conceived he would certainly endeavour to derive the greatest possible advantages to learning from his voyage; that he was only directed therefore, to exercise all his talents, and to extend his observations to every remarkable object; and that from him was expected a philosophical history of the voyage, on a plan which the learned world had not hitherto seen executed. His father, accordingly, he says, having performed the voyage, and collected his observations, in conformity to such opinion and expectations, proceeded, on his return home, to accomplish the remaining task allotted to him--writing the history of the voyage. It was first proposed, we are told, that a single narrative should be composed from his and Cook's papers, the important observations of each being inserted, and ascertained by appropriate marks. Forster, in consequence, received a part of Cook's journal, and drew up several sheets as a specimen; but this plan was soon desisted from, as it was thought more expedient that the two journals should be kept separate. In fartherance, then, of this design, it is said, an agreement was drawn up on the 13th of April, 1776, between Captain Cook and Mr Forster, in the presence, and with the signature, of the Earl of Sandwich, which specified the particular parts of the relations to be prepared by each, and confirmed to both, jointly, the gift of the valuable plates engraved at the expence of the Admiralty, and generously bestowed on these two gentlemen in equal shares. Mr F. Soon afterwards presented a second specimen of his narrative to the Earl of Sandwich, but was surprised to find that it was quite disapproved of, though at last he was convinced that, as the word "narrative" had been omitted in the above-mentioned agreement, he was not entitled to compose a connected account of the voyage. He was, moreover, informed, that if he chose to preserve his claim to half of the profits arising from the plates, he must conform to the letter of that agreement. In this he acquiesced for the benefit of his family; and accordingly, though he had understood it was intended he should write the history of the voyage, he found himself confined to the publication of his unconnected philosophical observations. G. Forster adds, it hurt him much to see the chief intent of his father's mission defeated, and the public disappointed in their expectations of a philosophical recital of facts; however, as he himself had been appointed his father's assistant, and was bound by no such agreement as that which restrained him, he thought it incumbent to attempt such a narrative as a duty to the public, and in justice to the ample materials he had collected during the voyage. "I was bound, " he concludes, "by no agreement whatever; and that to which my father had signed, did not make him answerable for my actions, nor, in the most distant manner, preclude his giving me assistance. Therefore, in every important circumstance I had leave to consult his journals, and have been enabled to draw up my narrative with the most scrupulous attention to historical truth. " Such is the defence which Mr G. Forster sets up in behalf of a conduct, which it is certain was very differently construed by the patrons of the expedition, whose indignant opinions were so far regarded by the public, as to render the residence of both father and son in England no longer pleasant or respectable. They left it and went to the continent; though it is likely they were the more induced to do so by certain family difficulties, and the ill effects of the father's turbulent temper, which speedily lost him the friends his uncommon abilities and erudition had procured. The reader who desires information respecting these two singular men, and the sentiments entertained in general as to their improper conduct in the matter of the publication, may turn to the Supplement to the Encyclopaedia Britannica. It is, however, but justice to inform him, that the account there given, bears decisive indications of party bias in more senses than one; and that the strongest assertions it contains as to the share which Forster the father had in the publication, are not supported on evidence sufficient for the conviction of any unprejudiced mind. The writer of that article, as of several others in that very valuable publication, appears to have given up his imagination to the prevailing terrors of the times, and to have become, at last, almost incapable of discriminating betwixt personal delinquency and epidemic immorality--the misfortunes incident to individuals in every age or country, and the evils arising out of the erroneous creeds and systems of a particular time and place. A single quotation from the article now alluded to, may be conducive to the reader's favourable acceptance of that portion of the Forsters' labours from which it is proposed to supply many of the succeeding notes. "An account of the voyage was published in English and German, by George Forster; and the language, which is correct and elegant, was undoubtedly his; but those who knew both him and his father, are satisfied that the matter proceeded from the joint stock of their observations and reflections. Several parts of the work, and particularly the elaborate investigations relative to the languages spoken by the natives of the South Sea Islands, and the speculations concerning their successive migrations, are thought to be strongly impressed with the genius of the elder Forster. " Before concluding this note, it may be proper to say, that Mr Wales conceiving Mr G. Forster had made some misrepresentations of certain facts, wrote some remarks upon his book, to which Mr F. Replied. This is said on the authority of the Biog. Brit. For the writer himself has never seen either of the productions alluded to. That work very candidly admits, that the Forsters' books contain much curious and useful information. It is probable, then, that the readers in general will concur with the writer in discarding entirely all consideration of moral conduct as to the agreement, and availing themselves of whatever of utility or amusement the publication in question can afford. --E. 

 [2] The same day we observed several flying fishes, pursued by bonitos and dolphins, rising out of the water in order to escape from them. They were flying in all directions, and not against the wind only, as Mr Kalm seems to think. Neither did they confine themselves to a strait-lined course, but frequently were seen to describe a curve. When they met the top of a wave as they skimmed along the surface of the ocean, they passed through, and continued their flight beyond it. From this time, till we left the torrid zone, we were almost daily amused with the view of immense shoals of these fishes, and now and then caught one upon our decks, when it had unfortunately taken its flight too far, and was spent by its too great elevation above the surface of the sea. "--G. F. 

 [3] "About this time, the captain ordered the ship to be fumigated with gunpowder and vinegar, having taken notice that all our books and utensils became covered with mould, and all our iron and steel, though ever so little exposed, began to rust. Nothing is more probable than that the vapours, which now filled the air, contained some saline particles, since moisture alone does not appear to produce such an effect. "--G. F. 

 There can be no doubt that the atmospherical air is capable of sustaining marine salt in a state of solution, and of bearing it off to great distances on land, where it serves important purposes in animal and vegetable economy. The reader will be pleased with some remarks on the subject in Robison's Account of Black's Lectures. The air in the vessel, then, it will be readily imagined will contain it, and hence, as it is known that it is gradually decomposed by iron, the rust that was observed. The process of corroding the iron, &c. As it is commonly called, would be much accelerated by moisture, as the muriatic acid acts most powerfully on bodies capable of decomposing water; and it is no less certain, that the heat of a tropical climate would aid the operation. But it is difficult to explain how any benefit could be derived from the fumigation said to be practised by Cook on this occasion, otherwise than by producing dry warm air. Indeed, many persons will imagine that the circumstances required nothing more than free ventilation, and the occasional use of fires to destroy moisture. Mr Forster takes particular notice of what is mentioned in the text about the fermentation of the inspissated juice of malt, or, as he calls it, essence of beer; and he says, that, by the advice of his father, a vessel strongly fumigated with sulphur was filled with it, and prevented the fermentation for a few days. He does not explain on what principle, and perhaps was not acquainted with it. The fact is, that sulphuric acid, which is produced by the burning of sulphur, has the power of checking, or altogether destroying, the fermentation of substances. In the present case, it seems, enough of it had not been produced to answer the purpose effectually. Some other acids have the same power. Hence the desideratum mentioned in the text is easily supplied. The juice, it may be thought, will be changed by the addition of a strong acid, and rendered unserviceable. There can be no doubt, however, that when it is required for the purpose of making beer, &c. Means could be used to neutralize the acid that had been added to it, without materially, or at all, affecting the juice itself. --E. 

 [4] "When we made application to this indolent Don, by the governor's direction, to be supplied with cattle, he indeed promised to furnish us with as many as we wanted, but we never got more than a single lean bullock. The company perfectly tyrannizes over the inhabitants, and sells them wretched merchandize at exorbitant prices. "--G. F. 

 This gentleman says there are very few white people in the Cape Verd Islands; that he did not see more than five or six at St Jago, including the governor, commandant, and company's agent; and that in some of the islands even the governors and priests are taken from among the blacks. He draws a moving picture of the wretched condition of these forlorn islanders, under the indolent and yet oppressive government of the court of Lisbon. Mr G. F. Be it known, was peculiarly sharp-sighted in discovering, and vehement in inveighing against, every impolitic violation of human liberty. In the judgments of some persons, he had imbibed too readily the intoxicating beverage of revolutionary France. Many strong heads, it is certain, were not proof against its effects. --E. 

 [5] "Before leaving Port Praya, Captain Cook invited the governor- general and the commandant to dinner, and we staid on board in order to act as interpreters on this occasion. The captain sent them his own boat; but when it came on shore the governor begged to be excused, because he was always affected with sickness on board any vessel, whether at sea or in harbour. The commandant promised to come, but having at first neglected to ask the governor's leave, the latter retired to take his _siesta_, (or afternoon's repose, ) and no one ventured to disturb him. "--G. F. 

 [6] "The heavy rains entirely soaked the plumage of a poor swallow, which had accompanied us for several days past; it was obliged, therefore, to settle on the railing of the quarter-deck, and suffered itself to be caught. From the history of this bird, which was of the common species, we may deduce the circumstances that bring solitary land-birds a great way out to sea. It seems to be probable, that they begin with following a ship, from the time she leaves the land; that they are soon lost in the great ocean, and are thus obliged to continue close to the ship, as the only solid mass in this immense fluid expanse. If two or more ships are in company, it is also easy to account for the expression of _meeting with_ land-birds at a great distance from land, because they may happen to follow some other ship from the shore, than that which carries the observer; thus they may escape observation for a day or two, or perhaps longer, and when noticed, are supposed to be _met with_ at sea. However, great storms are sometimes known to have driven single birds, nay, vast flocks, out to sea, which are obliged to seek for rest on board of ships at considerable distances from any land. Captain Cook very obligingly communicated to me a fact which confirms the above assertion. "Being on board of a ship between Norway and England, he met with a violent storm, during which a flight of several hundred birds covered the whole rigging of the ship. Among numbers of small birds he observed several hawks, which lived very luxuriously by preying on those poor defenceless creatures. "--G. F. 

 To record incidents such as these, will not seem unimportant or injudicious to any one who knows the philosophical value of facts in the formation of just theories. --E. 

 [7] "This morning, 5th September, I let down a thermometer, suspended in the middle of a strong wooden case, of such a construction as to let the water pass freely through it in its descent, but which shut close the instant it began to be drawn up. By this means the thermometer was brought up in a body of water of the same heat with that it had been let down to. The results were as above. "--W. 

 This opportunity may be used for introducing the following table and remarks, which are certainly deserving attention. "To ascertain the degree of _warmth_ of the sea-water, at a certain depth, several experiments were made by us. The thermometer made use of, was of Fahrenheit's construction, made by Mr Ramsden, and furnished with an ivory scale; it was, on these occasions, always put into a cylindrical tin case, which had at each end a valve, admitting the water as long as the instrument was going down, and shutting while it was hauling up again. The annexed table will at once shew the result of the experiments. 

 | Degrees of Fahrenheit's | |Stay of |Time in| | Thermometer. | |the |hauling| |--------------------------| |Thermo- |the | | |On the | |Depth |meter |Thermo-| | In the |Surface |At a |in |in the |meter | | Air. |of the |certain |Fathoms. |Deep. |up. |Date |Latitude | |Sea. |Depth. | | | |--------------------------------------------------------------------------1772Sept. 5 00°52'N. 75° 74° 66° 85 F. 30' 27-1/2'

Sept. 27. 24°44'S. 72-1/2 70° 68° 80 F. 15' 7'

Oct. 12. 34°48'S. 60° 59° 58° 100 F. 2O' 6'

Dec. 15. 55°00'S. 30-1/2° 30° 34° 100 F. 17' 5-1/2'

Dec. 23. 55°26'S 33° 32° 34-1/2° 100 F. 16' 6-1/2'

1773

Jan. 13. 61°00'S. 37° 33-1/2° 32° 100 F. 20' 7'--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 From this table it appears, that under the Line and near the tropics, the water is cooler at a great depth than at its surface. In high latitudes, the air is cooler sometimes, sometimes very near upon a par, and sometimes warmer than the sea-water at the depth of about 100 fathoms, according as the preceding changes of the temperature of the air, or the direction and violence of the wind happen to fall out. For it is to be observed, that these experiments were always made when we had a calm, or at least very little wind; because in a gale of wind, we could not have been able to make them in a boat. Another probable cause of the difference in the temperature of the sea-water in the same high latitude, undoubtedly must be sought in the ice; in a sea covered with high and extensive ice islands, the water should be colder than in a sea which is at a great distance from any ice. "--F. 

 This table is evidently too confined, and made up of too few elements, to justify almost any general inferences. The subject is certainly a curious one, and merits full investigation, but presents very considerable difficulties, as many circumstances, which are likely to modify the result, may escape notice during the experiments. It has been said, that as water is most dense at from 37 to 39 Fahrenheit, this may be presumed to be the mean temperature at the bottom of the sea; but such hypothetical deductions are, perhaps, entitled to little confidence. It may however be safely enough presumed, that the temperature of the sea is kept tolerably uniform on the well-known principle of statics, that the heavier columns of any fluid displace those that are lighter. The waters of the ocean, perhaps, are the great agent by which the average temperature of our globe is preserved almost entirely invariable. We shall have an opportunity, in the account of another voyage, to make some remarks on this subject, and to notice more exact experiments than those just now mentioned. --E. 

 [8] "On this day, we had an alarm that one of our crew was overboard, upon which we immediately put about, but seeing nothing, the names of all persons on board the vessel were called over, and none found missing, to our great satisfaction. Our friends on board the Adventure, whom we visited a few days after, told us they had indeed suspected by our manoeuvre, the accident which we had apprehended, but that looking out on the sea, Captain Furneaux had plainly observed a sea-lion, that had been the cause of this false alarm. "--G. F. 

 [9] Mr G. F. Concludes his description of this well-known appearance in the following very just remark: "There was a singularity, and a grandeur in the display of this phenomenon, which could not fail of giving occupation to the mind, and striking it with a reverential awe, due to Omnipotence. The ocean covered to a great extent, with myriads of animalcules; these little beings, organized, alive, endowed with locomotive power, a quality of shining whenever they please, and illuminating every body with which they come in contact, and of laying aside their luminous appearance at pleasure; all these ideas crowded upon us, and bade us admire the Creator, even in his minutest works. " However florid the language of this gentleman on the subject, his account and opinions are strongly enforced by the recent discoveries of the French naturalists related by Mr Peron, to which we shall probably call the reader's attention hereafter. --E. 

 [10] Mr G. F. Speaks with much more enthusiasm, as one might have expected, of Dr Sparrman, extolling his talents and activity in the course of science, but lamenting, at the same time, that this voyage, on which he now set out, yielded much less matter for observation than his ardent mind had anticipated. That gentleman's labours at the Cape, it seems, however, especially in botany, were very successful; he and Dr Thunberg having, it is said, gathered above a thousand species entirely unknown before. --E. 

SECTION II. 

_Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a SouthernContinent. _

Having at length finished my business at the Cape, and taken leave of thegovernor and some others of the chief officers, who, with very obligingreadiness, had given me all the assistance I could desire, on the 22d ofNovember we repaired on board; and at three o'clock in the afternoonweighed, and came to sail with the wind at N. By W. As soon as the anchorwas up, we saluted the port with fifteen guns, which was immediatelyreturned; and after making a few trips, got out of the bay by seveno'clock, at which time the town bore S. E. Distant four miles. After this westood to the westward all night, in order to get clear of the land, havingthe wind at N. N. W. And N. W. , blowing in squalls attended with rain, whichobliged us to reef our topsails. The sea was again illuminated for sometime, in the same manner as it was the night before we arrived in TableBay. 

Having got clear of the land, I directed my course for Cape Circumcision. The wind continued at N. W. A moderate gale, until the 24th, when it veeredround to the eastward. On the noon of this day, we were in the latitude of35° 25' S. , and 29' west of the Cape; and had abundance of albatrossesabout us, several of which were caught with hook and line; and were verywell relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at this timeserved with fresh mutton. Judging that we should soon come into coldweather, I ordered slops to be served to such as were in want; and gave toeach man the fearnought jacket and trowsers allowed them by the Admiralty. 

The wind continued easterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale, whichbrought us into the latitude of 39° 4', and 2° of longitude west of theCape, thermometer 52-1/2[1] The wind now came to W. And S. W. ; and on the29th fixed at W. N. W. , and increased to a storm, which continued, with somefew intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December, when we werein the latitude of 48° 41' S. , and longitude 18° 24' E. This gale, whichwas attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence that wecould carry no sails; by which means we were driven far to the eastward ofour intended course, and no hopes were left me of reaching CapeCircumcision. But the greatest misfortune that attended us, was the loss ofgreat part of our live stock, which we had brought from the Cape, and whichconsisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. Indeed this sudden transition fromwarm, mild weather, to extreme cold and wet, made every man in the shipfeel its effects. For by this time the mercury in the thermometer hadfallen to 38; whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and upwards. I nowmade some addition to the people's allowance of spirit, by giving them adram whenever I thought it necessary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to dothe same. The night proved clear and serene, and the only one that was sosince we left the Cape; and the next morning the rising sun gave us suchflattering hopes of a fine day, that we were induced to let all the reefsout of the top-sails, and to get top-gallant yards across, in order to makethe most of a fresh gale at north. Our hopes, however, soon vanished; forbefore eight o'clock, the serenity of the sky was changed into a thickhaze, accompanied with rain. The gale increasing obliged us to hand themain-sail, close-reef our top-sails, and to strike top-gallant yards. Thebarometer at this time was unusually low, which foreboded an approachingstorm, and this happened accordingly. For, by one o'clock p. M. The wind, which was at N. W. , blew with such strength as obliged us to take in all oursails, to strike top-gallant-masts, and to get the spritsail-yard in. And Ithought proper to wear, and lie-to, under a mizzen-stay-sail, with theships' heads to the N. E. As they would bow the sea, which ran prodigiouslyhigh, better on this tack. 

At eight o'clock next morning, being the 8th, we wore, and lay on the othertack; the gale was a little abated, but the sea ran too high to make sail, any more than the fore-top-mast-stay-sail. In the evening, being in thelatitude of 49° 40 S. , and 1-1/2° E. Of the Cape, we saw two penguins andsome sea or rock-weed, which occasioned us to sound, without finding groundat 100 fathoms. At eight p. M. We wore, and lay with our heads to the N. E. Till three in the morning of the 9th, then wore again to the southward, thewind blowing in squalls attended with showers of snow. At eight, beingsomething more moderate, I made the Adventure signal to make sail; and soonafter made sail ourselves under the courses and close-reefed top-sails. Inthe evening, took in the top-sails and main-sail, and brought-to underfore-sail and mizzen; thermometer at 36°. The wind still at N. W. Blew afresh gale, accompanied with a very high sea. In the night had a prettysmart frost with snow. [2]

In the morning of the 10th we made sail under courses and top-sails close-reefed; and made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and lead. Ateight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward of us, being then in thelatitude of 56° 40' S. And longitude 2° 0' E. Of the Cape of Good Hope. Soon after the wind moderated, and we let all the reefs out of the top-sails, got the spritsail-yard out, and top-gallant-mast up. The weathercoming hazy, I called the Adventure by signal under my stern, which was nosooner done, than the haze increased so much with snow and sleet, that wedid not see an island of ice, which we were steering directly for, till wewere less than a mile from it. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, andhalf a mile in circuit. It was flat at top, and its sides rose in aperpendicular direction, against which the sea broke exceedingly high. Captain Furneaux at first took this ice for land, and hauled off from it, until called back by signal. As the weather was foggy, it was necessary toproceed with caution. We therefore reefed our top-sails, and at the sametime sounded, but found no ground with 150 fathoms. We kept on to thesouthward with the wind at north till night, which we spent in making shorttrips, first one way and then another, under an easy sail; thermometerthese 24 hours from 36-1/2 to 31. 

At day-light in the morning of the 11th, we made sail to the southward withthe wind at west, having a fresh gale, attended with sleet and snow. Atnoon we were in the latitude of 51° 50' S. , and longitude 21° 3' E. , wherewe saw some white birds about the size of pigeons, with blackish bills andfeet. I never saw any such before; and Mr Forster had no knowledge of them. I believe them to be of the peterel tribe, and natives of these icyseas. [3] At this time we passed between two ice islands, which lay at alittle distance from each other. 

In the night the wind veered to N. W. Which enabled us to steer S. W. On the12th we had still thick hazy weather, with sleet and snow; so that we wereobliged to proceed with great caution on account of the ice islands. Six ofthese we passed this day; some of them near two miles in circuit, and sixtyfeet high. And yet, such was the force and height of the waves, that thesea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view which for a few momentswas pleasing to the eye; but when we reflected on the danger, the mind wasfilled with horror. For were a ship to get against the weather-side of oneof these islands when the sea runs high, she would be dashed to pieces in amoment. Upon our getting among the ice islands, the albatrosses left us;that is, we saw but one now and then. Nor did our other companions, thepintadoes, sheerwaters, small grey birds, fulmars, &c. , appear in suchnumbers; on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. Two ofthese birds were seen to-day. 

The wind in the night veered to west, and at last fixed at S. W. , a freshgale, with sleet and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as it fell, so that they were all hung with icicles. We kept on to the southward, passed no less than eighteen ice islands, and saw more penguins. At noon onthe 13th, we were in the latitude of 54° S. , which is the latitude of CapeCircumcision, discovered by M. Bouvet in 1739; but we were ten degrees oflongitude east of it; that is, near 118 leagues in this latitude. We stoodon to the S. S. E. Till eight o'clock in the evening, the weather stillcontinuing thick and hazy, with sleet and snow. From noon till this time, twenty ice islands, of various extent, both for height and circuit, presented themselves to our view. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found noground with 150 fathom of line. 

We now tacked and made a trip to the northward till midnight, when we stoodagain to the southward; and at half an hour past six o'clock in the morningof the 14th, we were stopped by an immense field of low ice; to which wecould see no end, either to the east, west, or south. In different parts ofthis field were islands or hills of ice, like those we found floating inthe sea; and some on board thought they saw land also over the ice, bearingS. W. By S. I even thought so myself; but changed my opinion upon morenarrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they madewhen seen through the haze. For at this time it was both hazy and cloudy inthe horizon; so that a distant object could not be seen distinct. [4] Beingnow in the latitude of 54° 50' S. And longitude 21° 34' E. , and having thewind at N. W. We bore away along the edge of the ice, steering S. S. E. AndS. E. , according to the direction of the north side of it, where we saw manywhales, penguins, some white birds, pintadoes, &c. 

At eight o'clock we brought-to under a point of the ice, where we hadsmooth water: and I sent on board for Captain Furneaux. After we had fixedon rendezvouses in case of separation, and some other matters for thebetter keeping company, he returned on board, and we made sail again alongthe ice. Some pieces we took up along-side, which yielded fresh water. Atnoon we had a good observation, and found ourselves in latitude 54° 55' S. 

We continued a south-east course along the edge of the ice, till oneo'clock, when we came to a point round which we hauled S. S. W. , the seaappearing to be clear of ice in that direction. But after running fourleagues upon this course, with the ice on our starboard side, we foundourselves quite imbayed; the ice extending from N. N. E. Round by the westand south, to east, in one compact body. The weather was indifferentlyclear; and yet we could see no end to it. At five o'clock we hauled upeast, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear the ice. The extremeeast point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. By S. , over which appeared aclear sea. We however spent the night in making short boards, under an easysail. Thermometer, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30. 

Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N. W. , a small gale, thick foggyweather, with much snow; thermometer from 32 to 27; so that our sails andrigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick at times, that wecould not see the length of the ship; and we had much difficulty to avoidthe many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon, having but littlewind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we found set S. E. Near 3/4 of a mile an hour. At the same time, a thermometer, which in theopen air was at 32°, in the surface of the sea was at 30°; and, after beingimmerged 100 fathoms deep for about fifteen or twenty minutes, came up at34°, which is only 2° above freezing. [5] Our latitude at this time was 55°8'. 

The thick fog continued till two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to the southward, windstill at N. W. A gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward before wefell in with the main field of ice extending from S. S. W. To E. We now boreaway to east along the edge of it; but at night hauled off north, with thewind at W. N. W. , a gentle gale, attended with snow. 

At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was againobliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which westeered betwixt E. And S. S. W. , hauling into every bay or opening, in hopesof finding a passage to the south. But we found every where the ice closed. We had a gentle gale at N. W. With showers of snow. At noon we were, byobservation, in the latitude of 55° 16' S. In the evening the weather wasclear and serene. In the course of this day we saw many whales, one seal, penguins, some of the white birds, another sort of peterel, which is brownand white, and not much unlike a pintado; and some other sorts alreadyknown. We found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual;and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that wesailed amongst it the most part of the day; and the high ice islandswithout us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found noground with 250 fathoms of line. After this we hauled close upon a wind tothe northward, as we could see the field of ice extend as far as N. E. Butthis happened not to be the northern point; for at eleven o'clock we wereobliged to tack to avoid it. 

At two o'clock the next morning we stood again to the northward, with thewind at N. W. By W. , thinking to weather the ice upon this tack; on which westood but two hours, before we found ourselves quite imbayed, being then inlatitude 55° 8', longitude 24° 3'. The wind veering more to the north, wetacked and stood to the westward under all the sail we could carry, havinga fresh breeze and clear weather, which last was of short duration. For atsix o'clock it became hazy, and soon after there was thick fog; the windveered to the N. E. , freshened and brought with it snow and sleet, whichfroze on the rigging as it fell. We were now enabled to get clear of thefield of ice: but at the same time we were carried in amongst the iceislands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which with much difficulty wekept clear of. 

Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be allowedto call them so) in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to beingentangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. Thegreat danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is the getting fast inthe ice; a situation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had two men onboard that had been in the Greenland trade; the one of them in a ship thatlay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks, fast in this kindof ice, which they called packed ice. What they called field ice isthicker; and the whole field, be it ever so large, consists of one piece. Whereas this which I call field-ice, from its immense extent, consists ofmany pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and surface, from thirty orforty feet square to three or four, packed close together, and in placesheaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found too hard fora ship's side, that is not properly armed against it. How long it may havelain, or will lie here, is a point not easily determined. Such ice is foundin the Greenland seas all the summer long; and I think it cannot be colderthere in the summer, than it is here. Be this as it may, we certainly hadno thaw; on the contrary, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer keptgenerally below the freezing point, although it was the middle of summer. 

It is a general opinion, that the ice I have been speaking of, is formed inbays and rivers. Under this supposition we were led to believe that landwas not far distant; and that it even lay to the southward behind the ice, which alone hindered us from approaching to it. Therefore, as we had nowsailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding apassage to the south, I determined to run thirty or forty leagues to theeast, afterwards endeavour to get to the southward, and, if I met with noland, or other impediment, to get behind the ice, and put the matter out ofall manner of dispute. With this view, we kept standing to the N. W. , withthe wind at N. E. And N. , thick foggy weather, with sleet and snow, till sixin the evening, when the wind veered to N. W. , and we tacked and stood tothe eastward, meeting with many islands of ice of different magnitudes, andsome loose pieces: The thermometer from 30 to 34; weather very hazy, withsleet and snow, and more sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed topoint out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In order to enable themto support this weather the better, I caused the sleeves of their jackets(which were so short as to expose their arms) to be lengthened with baize;and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas;which proved of great service to them. 

Some of our people appearing to have symptoms of the scurvy, the surgeonsbegan to give them fresh wort every day, made from the malt we had on boardfor that purpose. One man in particular was highly scorbutic; and yet hehad been taking the rob of lemon and orange for some time, without beingbenefited thereby. On the other hand, Captain Furneaux told me, that he hadtwo men, who, though far gone in this disease, were now in a mannerentirely cured by it. [6]

We continued standing to the eastward till eight o'clock in the morning ofthe 21st; when, being in the latitude of 53° 50', and longitude 29° 24' E. , we hauled to the south, with the wind at west, a fresh gale and hazy, withsnow. In the evening the wind fell and the weather cleared up, so as thatwe could see a few leagues round us; being in the latitude of 54° 43' S. Longitude 29° 30' E. 

At ten o'clock, seeing many islands of ice a-head, and the weather comingon foggy, with snow, we wore and stood to the northward, till three in themorning, when we stood again to the south. At eight, the weather clearedup, and the wind came to W. S. W. , with which we made all the sail we couldto the south; having never less than ten or twelve islands of ice in sight. 

Next day we had the wind at S. W. And S. S. W. , a gentle gale, with now andthen showers of snow and hail. In the morning, being in the latitude of 55°20' S. , and longitude 31° 30' E. , we hoisted out a boat to see if there wasany current, but found none. Mr Forster, who went in the boat, shot some ofthe small grey birds before-mentioned, which were of the peterel tribe, andabout the size of a small pigeon. Their back, and upper side of theirwings, their feet and bills, are of a blue-grey colour. Their bellies, andunder side of their wings are white, a little tinged with blue. The upperside of their quill feathers is a dark-blue tinged with black. A streak isformed by feathers nearly of this colour, along the upper parts of thewings, and crossing the back a little above the tail. The end of the tailfeathers is also of the same colour. Their bills are much broader than anyI have seen of the same tribe; and their tongues are remarkably broad. These blue peterels, as I shall call them, are seen no where but in thesouthern hemisphere, from about the latitude of 28°, and upwards. Thermometer at 33° in the open air, and 32° in the sea at the surface, andat 34-1/2 when drawn, and 6-1/2 minutes in drawing up from 100 fathomsbelow it, where it had been sixteen minutes. 

On the 24th, the wind blew from N. W. To N. E. , a gentle gale, fair andcloudy. At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56° 31' S, andlongitude 31° 19' E. , the thermometer at 35. And being near an island ofice, which was about fifty feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, I sentthe master in the jolly-boat to see if any water run from it. He soonreturned with an account that there was not one drop, or any otherappearance of thaw. In the evening we sailed through several floats, orfields of loose ice, lying in the direction of S. E. And N. W. ; at the sametime we had continually several islands of the same composition in sight. 

On the 25th, the wind veering round from the N. E. , by the east to south, itblew a gentle gale; with which we stood to the W. S. W, and at noon were inthe latitude of 57° 50' S. , and longitude 29° 32' E. The weather was fairand cloudy; the air sharp and cold, attended with a hard frost. And, although this was the middle of summer with us, I much question if the daywas colder in any part of England. The wind continued at south, blew afresh gale, fair and cloudy weather, till near noon the next day, when wehad clear sun-shine, and found ourselves, by observation, in the latitudeof 58° 31' S. , longitude 26° 57' E. 

In the course of the last twenty-four hours we passed through severalfields of broken loose ice. They were in general narrow, but of aconsiderable length, in the direction of N. W. And S. E. The ice was so closein one, that it would hardly admit the ship through it. The pieces wereflat, from four to six or eight inches thick, and appeared of that sort ofice which is generally formed in bays or rivers. Others again weredifferent; the pieces forming various honey-combed branches, exactly likecoral rocks, and exhibiting such a variety of figures as can hardly beconceived. 

We supposed this ice to have broke from the main field we had lately left;and which I was determined to get to the south of, or behind, if possible, in order to satisfy myself whether or not it joined to any land, as hadbeen conjectured. With this view I kept on to the westward, with a gentlegale at south, and S. S. W. , and soon after six o'clock in the evening, wesaw some penguins, which occasioned us to sound; but we found no groundwith 150 fathoms. 

In the morning of the 27th, we saw more loose ice, but not many islands;and those we did see were but small. The day being calm and pleasant, andthe sea smooth, we hoisted out a boat, from which Mr Forster shot a penguinand some peterels. These penguins differ not from those seen in other partsof the world, except in some minute particulars distinguishable only bynaturalists. Some of the peterels were of the blue sort, but differed fromthose before-mentioned, in not having a broad bill; and the ends of theirtail feathers were tipped with white instead of dark-blue. But whetherthese were only the distinctions betwixt the male and female, was a matterdisputed by our naturalists. We were now in the latitude of 58° 19' S. , longitude 24° 39' E. , and took the opportunity of the calm, to sound; butfound no ground with a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till six inthe evening, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the east, whichafterwards increased to a fresh gale. 

In the morning of the 28th I made the signal to the Adventure to spreadfour miles on my starboard beam; and in this position we continued sailingW. S. W. , until four o'clock in the afternoon, when the hazy weather, attended with snow showers, made it necessary for us to join. Soon after wereefed our top-sails, being surrounded on all sides with islands of ice. Inthe morning of the 29th we let them out again, and set top-gallant-sails;still continuing our course to the westward, and meeting with severalpenguins. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 59° 12', longitude 19° 1' E. , which is 3° more to the west than we were when wefirst fell in with the field of ice; so that it is pretty clear that itjoined to no land, as we conjectured. 

Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meridian of CapeCircumcision, provided we met with no impediment, as the distance was notmore than eighty leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to bepretty clear of ice, I sent on board for Captain Furneaux, to make himacquainted therewith, and after dinner he returned to his ship. At oneo'clock we steered for an island of ice, thinking if there were any looseice round it, to take some on board, and convert it into fresh water. Atfour we brought-to, close under the lee of the island, where we did notfind what we wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins. This piece of icewas about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards, for we lay for some minutes with every sail becalmed under it. The side onwhich the penguins were, rose sloping from the sea, so as to admit them tocreep up it. 

It is a received opinion, that penguins never go far from land, and thatthe sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. The opinion mayhold good where there are no ice islands; but where such are, these birds, as well as many others which usually keep near the shores, finding aroosting-place upon these islands, may be brought by them a great distancefrom any land. It will, however, be said, that they must go on shore tobreed, that probably the females were there, and that these are only themales which we saw. Be this as it may, I shall continue to take notice ofthese birds whenever we see them, and leave every one to judge for himself. 

We continued our course to the westward, with a gentle gale at E. N. E. , theweather being sometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy, with snow. The thermometer for a few days past was from 31 to 36. At nineo'clock the next morning, being the 30th, we shot one of the white birds, upon which we lowered a boat into the water to take it up, and by thatmeans killed a penguin which weighed eleven pounds and a half. The whitebird was of the peterel tribe; the bill, which is rather short, is of acolour between black and dark blue, and their legs and feet are blue. Ibelieve them to be the same sort of birds that Bouvet mentions to have seenwhen he was off Cape Circumcision. 

We continued our westerly course till eight o'clock in the evening, when westeered N. W. , the point on which I reckoned the above-mentioned cape tobear. At midnight we fell in with loose ice, which soon after obliged us totack, and stretch to the southward. At half an hour past two o'clock in themorning of the 31st, we stood for it again, thinking to take some on board, but this was found impracticable; for the wind, which had been at N. E, nowveered to S. E. , and increasing to a fresh gale, brought with it such a seaas made it very dangerous for the ships to remain among the ice. The dangerwas yet farther increased by discovering an immense field to the north, extending from N. E. By E. To S. W. By W. Farther than the eye could reach. As we were not above two or three miles from this, and surrounded by looseice, there was no time to deliberate. We presently wore; got our tacks onboard; hauled to the south, and soon got clear; but not before we hadreceived several hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of thelargest sort, and among which we saw a seal. In the afternoon the windincreased in such a manner, as to oblige us to hand the top-sails, andstrike top-gallant-yards. At eight o'clock we tacked and stood to the easttill midnight; when being in the latitude of 60° 21' S. , longitude 13° 32'E, we stood again to the west. 

Next day, towards noon, the gale abated, so that we could carry close-reefed top-sails. But the weather continued thick and hazy, with sleet andsnow, which froze on the rigging as it fell, and ornamented the whole withicicles; the mercury in the thermometer being generally below the freezingpoint. This weather continued till near noon the next day; at which time wewere in the latitude of 59° 12' S. ; longitude 9° 45' E. ; and here we sawsome penguins. 

The wind had now veered to the west, and was so moderate, that we couldbear two reefs out of the top-sails. In the afternoon, we were favouredwith a sight of the moon, whose face we had seen but once since we left theCape of Good Hope. By this a judgment may be formed of the sort of weatherwe had since we left that place. We did not fail to seize the opportunityto make several observations of the sun and moon. The longitude deducedfrom it was 9° 34' 30" E. Mr Kendal's watch, at the same time, giving 10°6' E. , and the latitude was 58° 53' 30" S. 

This longitude is nearly the same that is assigned to Cape Circumcision;and at the going down of the sun we were about ninety-five leagues to thesouth of the latitude it is said to lie in. At this time the weather was soclear, that we might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen leaguesdistance. It is, therefore very probable, that what Bouvet took for land, was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field-ice. Weourselves were undoubtedly deceived by the ice-hills, the day we first fellin with the field-ice. Nor was it an improbable conjecture, that that icejoined to land. The probability was however now greatly lessened, if notentirely set aside; for the space between the northern edge of the ice, along which we sailed, and our route to the west, when south of it, nowhere exceeded 100 leagues, and in some places not 60. The clear weathercontinued no longer than three o'clock the next morning, when it wassucceeded by a thick fog, sleet, and snow. The wind also veered to N. E. Andblew a fresh gale, with which we stood to S. E. It increased in such amanner, that before noon we were brought under close-reefed top-sails. Thewind continued to veer to the north, at last fixed at N. W. , and wasattended with intervals of clear weather. 

Our course was E. 1/4 N. , till noon the next day, when we were in thelatitude of 59° 2' S. , and nearly under the same meridian as we were whenwe fell in with the last field of ice, five days before; so that had itremained in the same situation, we must now have been in the middle of it, whereas we did not so much as see any. We cannot suppose that so large afloat of ice as this was, could be destroyed in so short a time. Ittherefore must have drifted to the northward: and this makes it probablethat there is no land under this meridian, between the latitude of 55° and59°, where we had supposed some to lie, as mentioned above. 

As we were now only sailing over a part of the sea where we had beenbefore, I directed the course E. S. E. In order to get more to the south. Wehad the advantage of a fresh gale, and the disadvantage of a thick fog;much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on our rigging as it fell; sothat every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice I ever saw. This afforded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but conveyed to themind an idea of coldness, much greater than it really was; for the weatherwas rather milder then it had been for some time past, and the sea lessencumbered with ice. But the worst was, the ice so clogged the rigging, sails, and blocks, as to make them exceedingly bad to handle. Our people, however, surmounted those difficulties with a steady perseverance, andwithstood this intense cold much better than I expected. 

We continued to steer to the E. S. E. With a fresh gale at N. W. Attended withsnow and sleet, till the 8th, when we were in the latitude of 61° 12' S. , longitude 31° 47' E. In the afternoon we passed more ice islands than wehad seen for several days. Indeed they were now so familiar to us, thatthey were often passed unnoticed; but more generally unseen on account ofthe thick weather. At nine o'clock in the evening, we came to one, whichhad a quantity of loose ice about it. As the wind was moderate, and theweather tolerably fair, we shortened sail, and stood on and off, with aview of taking some on board on the return of light. But at four o'clock inthe morning, finding ourselves to leeward of this ice, we bore down to anisland to leeward of us; there being about it some loose ice, part of whichwe saw break off. There we brought-to; hoisted out three boats; and inabout five or six hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons ofgood fresh water. The pieces we took up were hard, and solid as a rock;some of them were so large, that we were obliged to break them with pick-axes before they could be taken into the boats. 

The salt water which adhered to the ice, was so trifling as not to betasted, and, after it had lain on deck for a short time, entirely drainedoff; and the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly sweet and well-tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces, and put into casks; some wemelted in the coppers, and filled up the casks with the water; and some wekept on deck for present use. The melting and stowing away the ice is alittle tedious, and takes up some time; otherwise this is the mostexpeditious way of watering I ever met with. [7]

Having got on board this supply of water, and the Adventure about two-thirds as much (of which we stood in great need, ) as we had once broke theice, I did not doubt of getting more whenever we were in want. I thereforewithout hesitation directed our course more to the south, with a gentlegale at N. W. , attended, as usual, with snow showers. In the morning of the11th, being then in the latitude of 62° 44' S. , longitude 37° E. , thevariation of the compass was 24° 10' W. , and the following morning in thelatitude of 64° 12' S. , longitude 38° 14' E. , by the mean of threecompasses, it was no more than 23° 52' W. In this situation we saw somepenguins; and being near an island of ice from which several pieces hadbroken, we hoisted out two boats, and took on board as much as filled allour empty casks, and the Adventure did the same. While this was doing, MrForster shot an albatross, whose plumage was of a colour between brown anddark-grey, the head and upper side of the wings rather inclining to black, and it had white eye-brows. We began to see these birds about the time ofour first falling in with the ice islands; and some have accompanied usever since. These, and the dark-brown sort with a yellow bill, were theonly albatrosses that had not now forsaken us. 

At four o'clock p. M. We hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S. E. , with a gentle breeze at S. By W. , attended with showers of snow. 

On the 13th, at two o'clock a. M. It fell calm. Of this we took theopportunity to hoist out a boat, to try the current, which we found to setN. W. Near one-third of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the current, aFahrenheit's thermometer was immerged in the sea 100 fathoms below itssurface, where it remained twenty minutes. When it came up, the mercurystood at 32, which is the freezing point. Some little time after, beingexposed to the surface of the sea, it rose to 33-1/2, and in the open airto 36. The calm continued till five o'clock in the evening, when it wassucceeded by a light breeze from the S. And S. E. , with which we stood tothe N. E. With all our sails set. 

Though the weather continued fair, the sky, as usual, was clouded. However, at nine o'clock the next morning, it was clear; and we were enabled toobserve several distances between the sun and moon. The mean result ofwhich gave 39° 30' 30" E. Longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same timegave 38° 27' 45" which is 1° 2' 45" W. Of the observations; whereas, on the3d instant, it was half a degree E. Of them. 

In the evening I found the variation by the mean of azimuths taken with Gregory's compass to be 28° 14' 0"

By the mean of six azimuths by one of Dr Knight's 28 32 0

And by another of Dr Knight's 28 34 0

Our latitude at this time was 63° 57', longitude 39° 38-1/2"

The succeeding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 63° 33' S. , thelongitude was observed by the following persons, viz. 

Myself, being the mean of six distances of the sun and moon 40° 1' 45" E. 

Mr Wales, ditto 39 29 45

Ditto, ditto 39 56 45

Lieutenant Clerke, ditto 39 38 0

Mr Gilbert, ditto 39 48 45

Mr Smith, ditto 39 18 15 ----------Mean 39 42 12

Mr Kendal's watch made 38 41 30

which is nearly the same difference as the day before. But Mr Wales and Itook each of us six distances of the sun and moon, with the telescopesfixed to our sextants, which brought out the longitude nearly the same asthe watch. 

The results were as follows:--By Mr Wales, 38° 35' 30", and by me, 38° 36'45". 

It is impossible for me to say whether these or the former are the nearestto the truth; nor can I assign any probable reason for so great adisagreement. We certainly can observe with greater accuracy through thetelescope, than with the common sight, when the ship is sufficientlysteady. The use of the telescope is found difficult at first, but a littlepractice will make it familiar. By the assistance of the watch, we shall beable to discover the greatest error this method of observing the longitudeat sea is liable to; which at the greatest does not exceed a degree and ahalf, and in general will be found to be much less. Such is the improvementnavigation has received by the astronomers and mathematical instrument-makers of this age; by the former from the valuable tables they havecommunicated to the public, under the direction of the Board of Longitude, and contained in the astronomical ephemeris; and by the latter, from thegreat accuracy they observe in making instruments, without which the tableswould, in a great measure, lose their effect. The preceding observationswere made by four different sextants, of different workmen. Mine was by MrBird; one of Mr Wales's by Mr Dollond; the other and Mr Clerke's by MrRamsden; as also Mr Gilbert's and Smith's, who observed with the sameinstrument. 

Five tolerably fine days had now succeeded one another. This, besidesgiving us an opportunity to make the preceding observations, was veryserviceable to us on many other accounts, and came at a very seasonabletime. For, having on board a good quantity of fresh water, or ice, whichwas the same thing, the people were enabled to wash and dry their clothesand linen; a care that can never be enough attended to in all long voyages. The winds during this time blew in gentle gales, and the weather was mild. Yet the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 36; and was frequentlyas low as the freezing point. 

In the afternoon having but little wind, I brought-to under an island ofice, and sent a boat to take up some. In the evening the wind freshened ateast, and was attended with snow showers and thick hazy weather, whichcontinued great part of the 16th. As we met with little ice, I stood to thesouth, close hauled; and at six o'clock in the evening, being in thelatitude of 64° 56' S. , longitude 39° 35' E. I found the variation byGregory's compass to be 26° 41' W. At this time the motion of the ship wasso great that I could by no means observe with any of Dr Knight'scompasses. 

As the wind remained invariably fixed at E. And E. By S. , I continued tostand to the south; and on the 17th, between eleven and twelve o'clock, wecrossed the Antarctic Circle in the longitude of 39° 35' E. , for at noon wewere by observation in the latitude of 66° 36' 30" S. The weather was nowbecome tolerably clear, so that we could see several leagues round us; andyet we had only seen one island of ice since the morning. But about fourp. M. As we were steering to the south, we observed the whole sea in amanner covered with ice, from the direction of S. E. , round by the S. To W. 

In this space, thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were seen, besides loose ice in abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for onepiece, and bear up for another, and as we continued to advance to thesouth, it increased in such a manner, that at three quarters past sixo'clock, being then in the latitude of 67° 15' S. , we could proceed nofarther; the ice being entirely closed to the south, in the whole extentfrom E. To W. S. W. , without the least appearance of any opening. Thisimmense field was composed of different kinds of ice; such as high hills, loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think, Greenlandmen call field-ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the S. E. Ofus, of such extent, that I could see no end to it from the mast-head. Itwas sixteen or eighteen feet high at least; and appeared of a pretty equalheight and surface. Here we saw many whales playing about the ice, and fortwo days before had seen several flocks of the brown and white pintadoes, which we named Antarctic peterels, because they seem to be natives of thatregion. They are, undoubtedly, of the peterel tribe; are in every respectshaped like the pintadoes, differing only from them in colour. The head andfore-part of the body of these are brown; and the hind-part of the body, tail, and the ends of the wings, are white. The white peterel also appearedin greater numbers than before; some few dark-grey albatrosses, and ourconstant companion the blue peterel. But the common pintadoes had quitedisappeared, as well as many other sorts, which are common in lowerlatitudes. 

 [1] "In the midst of this heavy gale, I tried Dr Lind's wind-gage, and the water in it was depressed by the force of the wind 45/100 of an inch. " W. According to the same authority, it was equally depressed on the 30th, and on the 1st December, it sunk 4/10 of an inch in the squalls. Mr G. F. Relates an interesting enough alarm that occurred during this stormy weather. "A petty officer in the forepart of the vessel, awaking suddenly, heard a noise of water streaming through his birth, and breaking itself against his own and his mess-mates' chests; he leaped out of his bed, and found himself to the middle of his leg in water. He instantly acquainted the officer of the quarter-deck with the dreadful circumstances, and in a few moments almost every person was in motion; the pumps were employed, and the officers encouraged the seamen with an alarming gentleness, to persevere in their work; notwithstanding which the water seemed to gain upon us; every soul was filled with terror, increased by the darkness of the night. The chain- pumps were now cleared, and our sailors laboured at them with great alacrity; at last one of them luckily discovered that the water came in through a scuttle (or window) in the boatswain's store-room, which not having been secured against the tempestuous southern ocean, had been staved in by the force of the waves. It was immediately repaired, " &c. Incidents of this kind are not often related by a commander, but they are useful to a reader by diversifying the records of bearings, courses, &c. &c. --E. 

 [2] "At half past ten in the evening, some water which had been spilled on the deck was frozen, and in the morning we passed the first island of ice. It was not very high, was smooth on the top and sides, and not rugged like those I have seen in the north seas. " W. --Mr Forster in his observations has entered into a very important discussion respecting the formation of the ice islands, but it is vastly too long for insertion in this place. Few readers, however, it is likely, will object to see it elsewhere. --E. 

 [3] "They constantly appeared about the icy masses, and may be looked upon as sure forerunners of ice. Their colour induced us to call them the snowy peterels. "--G. F. 

 [4] "We had already had several false alarms from the fallacious conformation of fog-banks, or that of islands of ice half hid in snow storms, and our consort the Adventure had repeatedly made the signals for seeing land, deceived by such appearances: but now, the imagination warmed with the idea of M. Bouvet's discovery, one of our lieutenants, after having repeatedly been up to the mast-head, (about six o'clock in the morning on the 14th, ) acquainted the captain that he plainly saw the land. This news brought us all upon deck: We saw an immense field of flat ice before us, broken into many small pieces on the edges, a vast number of islands of ice of all shapes and sizes rose beyond it as far as the eye could reach, and some of the most distant considerably raised by the hazy vapours which lay on the horizon, had indeed some appearance of mountains. Several of our officers persisted in the opinion that they had seen land here, till Captain Cook, about two years and two months afterwards, (in February 1775, ) on his course from Cape Horn towards the Cape of Good Hope, sailed over the same spot, where they had supposed it to lie, and found neither land nor even ice there at that time. "--G. F. 

 [5] "While we were doing this, so thick a fog came on, that it was with the utmost difficulty, and after some considerable time, that we found the ships again. "--W. 

 "Their situation in a small four-oared boat, on an immense ocean, far from any habitable shore, surrounded with ice, and utterly destitute of provisions, was truly terrifying and horrible in its consequences. They rowed about for some time, making vain efforts to be heard, but all was silent about them, and they could not see the length of their boat. They were the more unfortunate, as they had neither mast nor sail, and only two oars. In this dreadful suspence they determined to lie still, hoping that, provided they preserved their place, the sloops would not drive out of sight, as it was calm. At last they heard the jingling of a bell at a distance; this sound was heavenly music to their ears; they immediately rowed towards it, and by continual hailing, were at last answered from the Adventure, and hurried on board, overjoyed to have escaped the danger of perishing by slow degrees, through the inclemencies of weather and through famine. Having been on board some time, they fired a gun, and being within hail of the Resolution, returned on board of that sloop to their own damp beds and mouldering cabins, upon which they now set a double value: after so perilous an expedition. "--G. F. 

 [6] "The encomiums on the efficacy of malt cannot be exaggerated, and this useful remedy ought never to be forgotten on board of ships bound on long voyages; nor can we bestow too much care to prevent its becoming damp and mouldy, by which means its salutary qualities are impaired, as we experienced during the latter part of our voyage. "-- G. F. 

 [7] "That water melted from the ice usually found floating in the sea is fresh and good, is no new discovery. The Hudson's Bay ships have long made use of it; and I have mentioned it, from my own experience, in the account of a voyage to Hudson's Bay. " _See Phil. Trans. Vol. 60_. --W. This is a solitary but most unexceptionable evidence. Mr Forster, in the article before alluded to, has not failed to point out much more. --E. 

SECTION III. 

_Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the Meridian ofthe Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of the Separation ofthe two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay. _

After meeting with this ice, I did not think it was at all prudent topersevere in getting farther to the south; especially as the summer wasalready half spent, and it would have taken up some time to have got roundthe ice, even supposing it to have been practicable; which, however, isdoubtful. I therefore came to a resolution to proceed directly in search ofthe land lately discovered by the French. And, as the winds still continuedat E. By S. , I was obliged to return to the north, over some part of thesea I had already made myself acquainted with, and, for that reason, wishedto have avoided. But this was not to be done, as our course made good, waslittle better than north. In the night the wind increased to a strong gale, attended with sleet and snow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-sails. About noon the next day the gale abated, so that we could bear all ourreefs out; but the wind still remained in its old quarter. 

In the evening, being in the latitude of 64° 12' S. , longitude 40° 15' E. , a bird, called by us in my former voyage Port Egmont Hen, (on account ofthe great plenty of them at Port Egmont in Falkland Isles, ) came hoveringseveral times over the ship, and then left us in the direction of N. E. Theyare a short thick bird, about the size of a large crow, of a dark-brown orchocolate colour, with a whitish streak under each wing, in the shape of ahalf-moon. I have been told that these birds are found in great plenty atthe Fero Isles, North of Scotland; and that they never go far from land. Certain it is, I never before saw them above forty leagues off; but I donot remember ever seeing fewer than two together; whereas here was but one, which, with the islands of ice, may have come a good way from land. 

At nine o'clock, the wind veering to E. N. E. , we tacked and stood to theS. S. E, but at four in the morning of the 20th, it returned back to its oldpoint, and we resumed our northerly course. One of the above birds was seenthis morning, probably the same we saw the night before, as our situationwas not much altered. As the day advanced, the gale increased, attendedwith thick hazy weather, sleet, and snow, and at last obliged us to close-reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant-yards. But in the evening thewind abated so as to admit us to carry whole top-sails, and top-gallant-yards aloft. Hazy weather, with snow and sleet continued. 

In the afternoon of the 21st, being in the latitude of 62° 24' S. , longitude 42° 19' E. , we saw a white albatross with black tipped wings, anda pintado bird. The wind was now at S. And S. W. , a fresh gale. With this westeered N. E. , against a very high sea, which did not indicate the vicinityof land in that quarter; and yet it was there we were to expect it. Thenext day we had intervals of fair weather, the wind was moderate, and wecarried our studding-sails. [1] In the morning of the 23d, we were inlatitude of 60° 27' S. , longitude 45° 33' E. Snow showers continued, andthe weather was so cold, that the water in our water-vessels on deck hadbeen frozen for several preceding nights. 

Having clear weather at intervals, I spread the ships a-breast four milesfrom each other, in order the better to discover any thing that might liein our way. We continued to sail in this manner till six o'clock in theevening, when hazy weather and snow showers made it necessary for us tojoin. 

We kept our course to N. E. Till eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th, when the wind having veered round to N. E. By E. , by the W. And N. Wetacked, and stood to N. W. The wind was fresh, and yet we made but littleway against a high northerly sea. We now began to see some of that sort ofpeterels so well known to sailors by the name of sheerwaters, latitude 58°10', longitude 50° 54' E. In the afternoon the wind veered to the southwardof east; and at eight o'clock in the evening, it increased to a storm, attended with thick hazy weather, sleet and snow. 

During night we went under our fore-sail and main-top-sail close-reefed: Atday-light the next morning, added to them the fore and mizen top-sails. Atfour o'clock it fell calm; but a prodigious high sea from the N. E. , and acomplication of the worst of weather, viz. Snow, sleet, and rain, continued, together with the calm, till nine o'clock in the evening. Thenthe weather cleared up, and we got a breeze at S. E. By S. With this westeered N. By E. Till eight o'clock the next morning, being the 27th, whenI spread the ships, and steered N. N. E. , all sails set, having a freshbreeze at S. By W. , and clear weather. 

At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56° 28' S. , and, aboutthree o'clock in the afternoon, the sun and moon appearing at intervals, their distances were observed by the following persons; and the longituderesulting therefrom was, By Mr Wales, (the mean of two sets) 50° 59' East. Lieutenant Clerke 51 11Mr Gilbert 50 14Mr Smith 50 50Mr Kendal's watch 50 50

At six o'clock in the evening, being in latitude 56° 9' S. , I now madesignal to the Adventure to come under my stern; and at eight o'clock thenext morning sent her to look out on my starboard beam, having at this timea fresh gale at west and pretty clear weather. But this was not of longduration; for, at two in the afternoon, the sky became cloudy and hazy, thewind increased to a fresh gale, blew in squalls attended with snow, sleet, and drizzling rain. I now made signal to the Adventure to come under mystern, and took another reef in each top-sail. At eight o'clock I hauled upthe main-sail, and run all night under the foresail, and two top-sails; ourcourse being N. N. E. And N. E. By N. , with a strong gale at N. W. 

The 29th, at noon, we observed in latitude 52° 29' S. , the weather beingfair and tolerably clear. But in the afternoon, it again became very thickand hazy with rain; and the gale increased in such a manner as to oblige usto strike top-gallant yards, close-reef and hand the top-sails. We spentpart of the night, which was very dark and stormy, in making a tack to theS. W. , and in the morning of the 30th, stood again to the N. E. , wind at N. W. And N. , a very fresh gale; which split several of our small sails. This dayno ice was seen, probably owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o'clockin the evening we tacked and stood to the westward, under our courses; butas the sea run high, we made our course no better than S. S W. 

At four o'clock the next morning, the gale had a little abated; and thewind had backed to W. By S. We again stood to the northward, under coursesand double-reefed top-sails, having a very high sea from the N. N. W. , whichgave us but little hopes of finding the land we were in search of. At noonwe were in the latitude of 50° 56' S. , longitude 56° 48' E. , and presentlyafter we saw two islands of ice. One of these we passed very near, andfound that it was breaking or falling to pieces, by the cracking noise itmade; which was equal to the report of a four-pounder. There was a gooddeal of loose ice about it; and had the weather been favourable, I shouldhave brought-to, and taken some up. After passing this, we saw no more, till we returned again to the south. 

Hazy gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed atN. W. , so that we could make our course no better than N. E. By N. , and thiscourse we held till four o'clock in the afternoon of the first of February. Being then in the latitude of 48° 30', and longitude 58° 7' E. , nearly inthe meridian of the island of Mauritius, and where we were to expect tofind the land said to be discovered by the French, of which at this time wesaw not the least signs, we bore away east. 

I now made the signal to the Adventure to keep at the distance of fourmiles on my starboard beam. At half an hour past six, Captain Furneaux madethe signal to speak with me; and upon his coming under my stern, heinformed me that he had just seen a large float of sea or rock weed, andabout it several birds (divers. ) These were certainly signs of the vicinityof land; but whether it lay to the east or west, was not possible for us toknow. My intention was to have got into this latitude four or five degreesof longitude to the west of the meridian we were in, and then to havecarried on my researches to the east. But the west and north-west winds wehad had the five preceding days, prevented me from putting this inexecution. 

The continual high sea we had lately had from the N. E. , N. , N. W. And W. , left me no reason to believe that land of any extent lay to the West. Wetherefore continued to steer to the east, only lying-to a few hours in thenight, and in the morning resumed our course again, four miles north andsouth from each other; the hazy weather not permitting us to spreadfarther. We passed two or three small pieces of rock weed, and saw two orthree birds known by the name of egg-birds; but saw no other signs of land. At noon we observed in latitude 48° 36' S. , longitude 59° 35' E. As wecould only see a few miles farther to the south, and as it was notimpossible that there might be land not far off in that direction, I gaveorders to steer S. 1/2 E. , and made the signal for the Adventure to follow, she being by this movement thrown a-stern: The weather continuing hazy tillhalf an hour past six o'clock in the evening, when it cleared up so as toenable us to see about five leagues round us. 

Being now in the latitude of 49° 13' S. , without having the least signs ofland, I wore and stood again to the eastward, and soon after spoke withCaptain Furneaux. He told me that he thought the land was to the N. W. Ofus, ; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth when the windblew in that direction. Athough this was not conformable to the remarks_we_ had made on the sea, I resolved to clear up the point, if the windwould admit of my getting to the west in any reasonable time. 

At eight o'clock in the morning of the 3d, being in the latitude of 48° 56'S. Longitude 60° 47' E. , and upwards of 8° to the east of the meridian ofthe Mauritius, I began to despair of finding land to the east; and as thewind had now veered to the north, resolved to search for it to the west. Iaccordingly tacked and stood to the west with a fresh gale. This increasedin such a manner, that, before night, we were reduced to our two courses;and, at last, obliged to lie-to under the fore-sails, having a prodigioushigh sea from W. N. W. , notwithstanding the height of the gale was from N. ByW. At three o'clock the next morning, the gale abating, we made sail, andcontinued to ply to the west till ten o'clock in the morning of the 6th. 

At this time, being in the latitude of 48° 6' S. , longitude 58° 22' E. , thewind seemingly fixed at W. N. W. , and seeing no signs of meeting with land, Igave over plying, and bore away east a little southerly: Being satisfied, that if there is any land hereabout, it can only be an isle of no greatextent. And it was just as probable I might have found it to the E. As tothe W. 

While we were plying about here we took every opportunity to observe thevariation of the compass, and found it to be from 27° 50' to 30° 26' W. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4', is the nearest thetruth, as it nearly agrees with the variation observed on board theAdventure. In making these observations, we found that, when the sun was onthe larboard side of the ship, the variation was the least; and when on thestarboard side, the greatest. This was not the first time we had made thisobservation, without being able to account for it. At four o'clock in themorning of the 7th, I made the Adventure's signal to keep at the distanceof four miles on my starboard beam; and continued to steer E. S. E. Thisbeing a fine day, I had all our men's bedding and clothes spread on deck toair; and the ship cleaned and smoked betwixt decks. At noon I steered apoint more to the south, being then in the latitude of 45° 49' S. , longitude 61° 48' E. At six o'clock in the evening, I called in theAdventure; and at the same time took several azimuths, which gave thevariation 31° 28'. W. These observations could not be taken with thegreatest accuracy, on account of the rolling of the ship, occasioned by avery high westerly swell. 

The preceding evening, three Port Egmont hens were seen; this morninganother appeared. In the evening, and several times in the night, penguinswere heard; and, at daylight in the morning of the 8th, several of thesewere seen; and divers of two sorts, seemingly such as are usually met withon the coast of England. This occasioned us to sound, but we found noground with a line of 210 fathoms. Our latitude now was 49° 53' S. , andlongitude 63° 39' E. This was at eight o'clock. By this time the wind hadveered round by the N. E. To E. , blew a brisk gale, and was attended withhazy weather, which soon after turned to a thick fog; and, at the sametine, the wind shifted to N. E. 

I continued to keep the wind on the larboard tack, and to fire a gun everyhour till noon; when I made the signal to tack, and tacked accordingly. But, as neither this signal, nor any of the former, was answered by theAdventure, we had but too much reason to think that a separation had takenplace; though we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected. I haddirected Captain Furneaux, in case he was separated from me, to cruisethree days in the place where he last saw me. I therefore continued makingshort boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon, when, the weather having cleared up, we could see several leagues round us, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our horizon. Atthis time we were about two or three leagues to the eastward of thesituation we were in when we last saw her; and were standing to thewestward with a very strong gale at N. N. W. , accompanied with a great seafrom the same direction. This, together, with an increase of wind, obligedus to lie-to till eight o'clock the next morning, during which time we sawnothing of the Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, andwe had kept firing guns, and burning false fires, all night. I thereforegave over looking for her, made sail, and steered S. E. , with a very freshgale at W. By N. , accompanied with a high sea from the same direction. 

While we were beating about here; we frequently saw penguins and divers, which made us conjecture the land was not far off; but in what direction itwas not possible for us to tell. As we advanced to the south, we lost thepenguins, and most of the divers; and, as usual, met with abundance ofalbatrosses, blue peterels, sheer-waters, &c. 

The 11th, at noon, and in the latitude of 51° 15' S. , longitude 67° 20' E. , we again met with penguins: and saw an egg bird, which we also look upon tobe a sign of the vicinity of land. I continued to steer to the S. E. , with afresh gale in the north-west quarter, attended with a long hollow swell, and frequent showers of rain, hail, and snow. The 12th, in the morning, being in the latitude of 52° 32' S. , longitude 69° 47' E. , the variationwas 31° 38' W. In the evening, in the latitude of 53° 7' S. , longitude 70°50' E. , it was 32° 33'; and, the next morning, in the latitude of 53° 37'S. , longitude 72° 10', it was 33° 8' W. Thus far we had continually a greatnumber of penguins about the ship, which seemed to be different from thosewe had seen near the ice; being smaller, with reddish bills and brownishheads. The meeting with so many of these birds, gave us some hopes offinding land, and occasioned various conjectures about its situation. Thegreat westerly swell, which still continued, made it improbable that landof any considerable extent lay to the west. Nor was it very probable thatany lay to the north; as we were only about 160 leagues to the south ofTasman's track in 1642; and I conjectured that Captain Furneaux wouldexplore this place; which accordingly happened. In the evening we saw aPort Egmont hen, which flew away in the direction of N. E. By E. , and thenext morning a seal was seen; but no penguins. In the evening, being in thelatitude of 55° 49' S. , longitude 75° 52' E. , the variation was 34° 48' W. , and, in the evening of the 15th, in latitude 57° 2' S. , longitude 79° 56'E. , it was 38° W. Five seals were seen this day, and a few penguins; whichoccasioned us to sound, without finding any bottom, with a line of 150fathoms. 

At day-light in the morning of the 16th, we saw an island of ice to thenorthward; for which we steered, in order to take some on board; but thewind shifting to that direction, hindered us from putting this inexecution. At this time we were in the latitude of 57° 8' S. , longitude 80°59' E. , and had two islands of ice in sight. This morning we saw onepenguin, which appeared to be of the same sort which we had formerly seennear the ice. But we had now been so often deceived by these birds, that wecould no longer look upon them, nor indeed upon any other oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the vicinity of land. 

The wind continued not long at north, but veered to E. By N. E. , and blew agentle gale, with which we stood to the southward; having frequent showersof sleet and snow. But, in the night, we had fair weather, and a clearserene sky; and, between midnight and three o'clock in the morning, lightswere seen in the heavens, similar to those in the northern hemisphere, known by the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights; but I never heardof the Aurora Australia been seen before. The officer of the watch observedthat it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a circular form; thenits light was very strong, and its appearance beautiful. He could notperceive it had any particular direction; for it appeared, at varioustimes, in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its light throughoutthe whole atmosphere. [2]

At nine in the morning, we bore down to an island of ice which we reachedby noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high atleast, though very little loose ice about it. But while we were consideringwhether or no we should hoist out our boats to take some up, a greatquantity broke from the island. Upon this we hoisted out our boats, andwent to work to get some on board. The pieces of ice, both great and small, which broke from the island, I observed, drifted fast to the westward; thatis, they left the island in that direction, and were, in a few hours, spread over a large space of sea. This, I have no doubt, was caused by acurrent setting in that direction. For the wind could have but littleeffect upon the ice; especially as there was a large hollow swell from thewest. This circumstance greatly retarded our taking up ice. We, however, made a shift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, when we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the east, inclining to thesouth, with a fresh gale at south; which, soon after, veered to S. S. W. AndS. W. , with fair but cloudy weather. This course brought us among many iceisles; so that it was necessary to proceed with great caution. In the nightthe mercury in the thermometer fell two degrees below the freezing point;and the water in the scuttle casks on deck was frozen. As I have not takennotice of the thermometer of late, I shall now observe, that, as weadvanced to the north, the mercury gradually rose to 45, and fell again, aswe advanced to the south, to what is above-mentioned; nor did it rise, inthe middle of the day, to above 34 or 35. 

In the morning of the 18th, being in the latitude of 57° 54' S. , longitude83° 14' E. , the variation was 39° 33' W. In the evening, in latitude 58° 2'S. , longitude 84° 35' E. , it was only 37° 8' W. , which induced me tobelieve it was decreasing. But in the evening of the 20th, in the latitudeof 58° 47' S. , longitude 90° 56' E. , I took nine azimuths, with Dr Knight'scompass, which gave the variation 40° 7', and nine others, with Gregory's, which gave 40° 15' W. 

This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude justmentioned, we thought we saw land to the S. W. The appearance was so strongthat we doubted not it was there in reality, and tacked to work up to itaccordingly; having a light breeze at south, and clear weather. We were, however, soon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds; which, in theevening, entirely disappeared, and left us a clear horizon, so that wecould see a considerable way round us; in which space nothing was to beseen but ice islands. 

In the night the Aurora Australis made a very brilliant and luminousappearance. It was seen first in the east, a little above the horizon; and, in a short time, spread over the whole heavens. 

The 21st, in the morning, having little wind and a smooth sea, twofavourable circumstances for taking up ice, I steered for the largest iceisland before us, which we reached by noon. At this time, we were in thelatitude of 59° S. , longitude 92° 30' E. ; having about two hours beforeseen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity of loose ice, Iordered two boats out, and sent them to take some on board. While this wasdoing, the island, which was not less than half a mile in circuit, andthree or four hundred feet high above the surface of the sea, turned nearlybottom up. Its height, by this circumstance, was neither increased nordiminished apparently. As soon as we had got on board as much ice as wecould dispose of, we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S. E. , witha gentle breeze at N. By E. , attended with showers of snow, and dark gloomyweather. At this time we had but few ice islands in sight, but, the nextday, seldom less than twenty or thirty were seen at once. 

The wind gradually veered to the east; and, at last, fixing at E. By S. , blew a fresh gale. With this we stood to the south, till eight o'clock inthe evening of the 23d; at which time we were in the latitude of 61° 52'S. , longitude 95° 2' E. We now tacked and spent the night, which wasexceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, in making shortboards. Surrounded on every side with danger, it was natural for us to wishfor day-light. This, when it came, served only to increase ourapprehensions, by exhibiting to our view those huge mountains of ice, whichin the night we had passed without seeing. 

These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, at thisadvanced season of the year, quite discouraged me from putting in executiona resolution I had taken of crossing the Antarctic Circle once more. Accordingly, at four o'clock in the morning, we stood to the north, with avery hard gale at E. S. E. , accompanied with snow and sleet, and a very highsea from the same point, which made great destruction among the iceislands. This circumstance, far from being of any advantage to us, greatlyincreased the number of pieces we had to avoid. The large pieces whichbreak from the ice islands, are much more dangerous than the islandsthemselves. The latter are so high out of water, that we can generally seethem, unless the weather be very thick and dark, before we are very nearthem. Whereas the others cannot be seen in the night, till they are underthe ship's bows. These dangers were, however, now become so familiar to us, that the apprehensions they caused were never of long duration; and were, in some measure, compensated both by the seasonable supplies of fresh waterthese ice islands afforded us, (without which we must have been greatlydistressed, ) and also by their very romantic appearance, greatly heightenedby the foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes and cavernswhich are formed in many of them; the whole exhibiting a view which at oncefilled the mind with admiration and horror, and can only be described bythe hand of an able painter. [3]

Towards the evening the gale abated, and in the night we had two or threehours calm. This was succeeded by a light breeze at west, with which westeered east, under all the sail we could set, meeting with many iceislands. 

This night we saw a Port Egmont hen; and next morning, being the 25th, another. We had lately seen but few birds; and those were albatrosses, sheer-waters, and blue peterels. It is remarkable that we did not see oneof either the white or Antarctic peterels, since we came last amongst theice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at W. And N. W. All day, we had a veryhigh sea from the east, by which we concluded that no land could be near inthat direction. In the evening, being in the latitude 60° 51', longitude95° 41' E. , the variation was 43° 6' W. , and the next morning, being the26th, having advanced about a degree and a half more to the east, it was41° 30', both being determined by several azimuths. 

We had fair weather all the afternoon, but the wind was unsettled, veeringround by the north to the east. With this we stood to the S. E. And E. , tillthree o'clock in the afternoon; when, being in the latitude of 61° 21' S. , longitude 97° 7', we tacked and stood to the northward and eastward as thewind kept veering to the south. This, in the evening, increased to a stronggale, blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and thick hazyweather, which soon brought us under our close-reefed top-sails. 

Between eight in the morning of the 26th, and noon the next day, we fell inamong several islands of ice; from whence such vast quantities had brokenas to cover the sea all round us, and render sailing rather dangerous. However, by noon, we were clear of it all. In the evening the wind abated, and veered to S. W. But the weather did not clear up till the next morning, when we were able to carry all our sails, and met with but very few islandsof ice to impede us. Probably the late gale had destroyed a great number ofthem. Such a very large hollow sea had continued to accompany the wind asit veered from E. To S. W. That I was certain no land of considerable extentcould lie within 100 or 150 leagues of our situation between these twopoints. 

The mean height of the thermometer at noon, for some days past, was atabout 35, which is something higher than it usually was in the samelatitude about a month or five weeks before, consequently the air wassomething warmer. While the weather was really _warm_, the gales werenot only stronger, but more frequent, with almost continual misty, dirty, wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt its effects. A sowhaving in the morning farrowed nine pigs, every one of them was killed bythe cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwithstanding all the carewe could take of them. From the same cause, myself as well as several of mypeople, had fingers and toes chilblained. Such is the summer weather weenjoyed!

The wind continued unsettled, veering from the south to the west, and blewa fresh gale till the evening. Then it fell little wind, and soon after abreeze sprung up at north, which quickly veered to N. E. And N. E. By E. , attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain. With this wind andweather we kept on to the S. E. , till four o'clock in the afternoon of thenext day, being the first of March, when it fell calm, which continued fornear twenty-four hours. We were now in the latitude of 60° 36' S. , longitude 107° 54', and had a prodigious high swell from the S. W. , and, atthe same time, another from the S. Or S. S. E. The dashing of the one waveagainst the other, made the ship both roll and pitch exceedingly; but atlength the N. W. Swell prevailed. The calm continued till noon the next day, when it was succeeded by a gentle breeze from S. E. , which afterwardsincreased and veered to S. W. With this we steered N. E. By E. , and E. By N. , under all the sail we could set. 

In the afternoon of the 3d, being in latitude 60° 13', longitude 110° 18', the variation was 39° 4' W. But the observations, by which this wasdetermined, were none of the best, being obliged to make use of such as wecould get, during the very few and short intervals when the sun appeared. Afew penguins were seen this day, but not so many islands of ice as usual. The weather was also milder, though very changeable; thermometer from 36 to38. We continued to have a N. W. Swell, although the wind was unsettled, veering to N. W. By the W. And N. , attended with hazy sleet and drizzlingrain. 

We prosecuted our course to the east, inclining to the south, till threeo'clock in the afternoon of the 4th, when, (being in the latitude of 60°37', longitude 113° 24') the wind shifting at once to S. W. And S. W. By S. , I gave orders to steer E. By N. 1/2 N. But in the night we steered E. 1/2S. In order to have the wind, which was at S. S. W. , more upon the beam, thebetter to enable us to stand back, in case we fell in with any danger inthe dark. For we had not so much time to spare to allow us to lie-to. 

In the morning of the 5th, we steered E. By N. , under all the sail we couldset, passing one ice island and many small pieces, and at nine o'clock thewind, which of late had not remained long upon any one point, shifted allat once to east, and blew a gentle gale. With this, we stood to the north, at which time we were in the latitude of 60° 44' S. , and longitude 116° 50'E. The latitude was determined by the meridian altitude of the sun, whichappeared, now and then, for a few minutes, till three in the afternoon. Indeed the sky was, in general, so cloudy, and the weather so thick andhazy, that we had very little benefit of sun or moon; very seldom seeingthe face of either the one or the other. And yet, even under thesecircumstances, the weather, for some days past, could not be called verycold. It, however, had not the least pretension to be called summerweather, according to my ideas of summer in the northern hemisphere, as faras 60° of latitude, which is nearly as far north as I have been. 

In the evening we had three islands of ice in sight, all of them large;especially one, which was larger than any we had yet seen. The side opposedto us seemed to be a mile in extent; if so, it could not be less than threein circuit. As we passed it in the night, a continual cracking was heard, occasioned, no doubt, by pieces breaking from it. [4] For, in the morning ofthe 6th, the sea, for some distance round it, was covered with large andsmall pieces; and the island itself did not appear so large as it had donethe evening before. It could not be less than 100 feet high; yet such wasthe impetuous force and height of the waves which were broken against it, by meeting with such a sudden resistance, that they rose considerablyhigher. In the evening we were in latitude of 59° 58' S. , longitude 118°39' E. The 7th, the wind was variable in the N. E. And S. E. Quarters, attended with snow and sleet till the evening. Then the weather becamefair, the sky cleared up, and the night was remarkably pleasant, as well asthe morning of the next day; which, for the brightness of the sky, andserenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to none we had seen sincewe left the Cape of Good Hope. It was such as is little known in this sea;and to make it still more agreeable, we had not one island of ice in sight. The mercury in the thermometer rose to 40. Mr Wales and the master madesome observations of the moon and stars, which satisfied us, that, when ourlatitude was 59° 44', our longitude was 121° 9'. At three o'clock in theafternoon, the calm was succeeded by a breeze at S. E. The sky, at the sametime, was suddenly obscured, and seemed to presage an approaching storm, which accordingly happened. For, in the evening, the wind shifted to south, blew in squalls, attended with sleet and rain, and a prodigious high sea. Having nothing to take care of but ourselves, we kept two or three pointsfrom the wind, and run at a good rate to the E. N. E. Under our two courses, and close-reefed topsails. 

The gale continued till the evening of the 10th. Then it abated; the windshifted to the westward; and we had fair weather, and but little wind, during the night; attended with a sharp frost. The next morning, being inthe latitude of 57° 56', longitude 130°, the wind shifted to N. E. , and blewa fresh gale, with which we stood S. E. , having frequent showers of snow andsleet, and a long hollow swell from S. S. E. And S. E. By S. This swell didnot go down till two days after the wind which raised it had not onlyceased to blow, but had shifted, and blown fresh at opposite points, goodpart of the time. Whoever attentively considers this, must conclude, thatthere can be no land to the south, but what must be at a great distance. 

Notwithstanding so little was to be expected in that quarter, we continuedto stand to the south till three o'clock in the morning of the 12th, whenwe were stopped by a calm; being then in the latitude of 58° 56' S. , longitude 131° 26' E. After a few hours calm, a breeze sprung up at west, with which we steered east. The S. S. E. Swell having gone down, wassucceeded by another from N. W. By W. The weather continued mild all thisday, and the mercury rose to 39-1/2. In the evening it fell calm, andcontinued so till three o'clock in the morning of the 13th, when we got thewind at E. And S. E. , a fresh breeze attended with snow and sleet. In theafternoon it became fair, and the wind veered round to the S. And S. S. W. Inthe evening, being in the latitude of 58° 59', longitude 134°, the weatherwas so clear in the horizon, that we could see many leagues round us. Wehad but little wind during the night, some showers of snow, and a verysharp frost. As the day broke, the wind freshened at S. E. And S. S. E. ; andsoon after, the sky cleared up, and the weather became clear and serene;but the air continued cold, and the mercury in the thermometer rose onlyone degree above the freezing point. 

The clear weather gave Mr Wales an opportunity to get some observations ofthe sun and moon. Their results reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58°22' S. , gave us 136° 22' E. Longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same timegave 134° 42'; and that of Mr Arnold the same. This was the first and onlytime they pointed out the same longitude since we left England. Thegreatest difference, however, between them, since we left the Cape, had notmuch exceeded two degrees. 

The moderate, and I might almost say, pleasant weather, we had, at times, for the last two or three days, made me wish I had been a few degrees oflatitude farther south; and even tempted me to incline our course that way. But we soon had weather which convinced us that we were full far enough;and that the time was approaching, when these seas were not to be navigatedwithout enduring intense cold; which, by the bye, we were pretty well usedto. In the afternoon, the serenity of the sky was presently obscured: Thewind veered round by the S. W. To W. , and blew in hard squalls, attendedwith thick and heavy showers of hail and snow, which continually coveredour decks, sails, and rigging, till five o'clock in the evening of the15th. At this time, the wind abated, and shifted to S. E. ; the sky clearedup; and the evening was so serene and clear, that we could see many leaguesround us; the horizon being the only boundary to our sight. 

We were now in the latitude of 59° 17' S. , longitude 140° 12' E. , and hadsuch a large hollow swell from W. S. W. , as assured us that we had left noland behind us in that direction. I was also well assured that no land layto the south on this side 60° of latitude. We had a smart frost during thenight, which was curiously illuminated with the southern lights. 

At ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, (which was as soon as the sunappeared, ) in the latitude of 58° 51' S. , our longitude was 144° 10' E. This good weather was, as usual, of short duration. In the afternoon ofthis day, we had again thick snow showers; but, at intervals, it wastolerably clear; and, in the evening being in the latitude of 58° 58' S. , longitude 144° 37' E. , I found the variation by several azimuths to be 31'E. 

I was not a little pleased with being able to determine, with so muchprecision, this point of the Line, in which the compass has no variation. For I look upon half a degree as next to nothing; so that the intersectionof the latitude and longitude just mentioned, may be reckoned the pointwithout any sensible error. At any rate, the Line can only pass a verysmall matter west of it. 

I continued to steer to the east, inclining to the south, with a fresh galeat S. W. , till five o'clock the next morning, when, being in the latitude of59° 7' S. , longitude 146° 53' E. , I bore away N. E. , and, at noon, north, having come to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes, and toproceed to New Zealand to look for the Adventure, and to refresh my people. I had also some thoughts, and even a desire to visit the east coast of VanDiemen's Land, in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of NewSouth Wales. 

In the night of the 17th, the wind shifted to N. W. , and blew in squalls, attended with thick hazy weather and rain. This continued all the 18th, inthe evening of which day, being in the latitude of 56° 15' S. , longitude150°, the sky cleared up, and we found the variation by several azimuths tobe 13° 30' E. Soon after, we hauled up, with the log, a piece of rock-weed, which was in a state of decay, and covered with barnacles. In the night thesouthern lights were very bright. 

The next morning we saw a seal; and towards noon, some penguins, and morerock-weed, being at this time in the latitude of 55° 1', longitude 152° 1'E. In the latitude of 54° 4', we also saw a Port Egmont hen, and some weed. Navigators have generally looked upon all these to be certain signs of thevicinity of land; I cannot, however, support this opinion. At this time weknew of no land, nor is it even probable that there is any, nearer than NewHolland, or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were distant 260 leagues. Wehad, at the same time, several porpoises playing about us; into one ofwhich Mr Cooper struck a harpoon; but as the ship was running seven knots, it broke its hold, after towing it some minutes, and before we could deadenthe ship's way. 

As the wind, which continued between the north and the west, would notpermit me to touch at Van Diemen's Land, I shaped my course to New Zealand;and, being under no apprehensions of meeting with any danger, I was notbackward in carrying sail, as well by night as day, having the advantage ofa very strong gale, which was attended with hazy rainy weather, and a verylarge swell from the W. And W. S. W. We continued to meet with, now and then, a seal, Port Egmont hens, and sea-weed. 

On the morning of the 22d, the wind shifted to south, and brought with itfair weather. At noon, we found ourselves in the latitude of 49° 55', longitude 159° 28', having a very large swell out of the S. W. For the threedays past, the mercury in the thermometer had risen to 46, and the weatherwas quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude had made a surprisingdifference in the temperature of the air, which we felt with an agreeablesatisfaction. 

We continued to advance to the N. E. At a good rate, having a brisk galebetween the S. And E. ; meeting with seals, Port Egmont hens, egg birds, sea-weed, &c. And having constantly a very large swell from the S. W. At teno'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of New Zealand was seen fromthe mast-head; and at noon, from the deck; extending from N. E. By E. To E. , distant ten leagues. As I intended to put into Dusky Bay, or any other portI could find, on the southern part of _Tavai Poenammoo_, we steered infor the land, under all the sail we could carry, having the advantage of afresh gale at W. , and tolerably clear weather. This last was not of longduration; for, at half an hour after four o'clock, the land, which was notabove four miles distant, was in a manner wholly obscured in a thick haze. At this time, we were before the entrance of a bay, which I had mistakenfor Dusky Bay, being deceived by some islands that lay in the mouth of it. 

Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which we were allstrangers, and seeing some breakers and broken ground a-head, I tacked intwenty-five fathom water, and stood out to sea with the wind at N. W. Thisbay lies on the S. E. Side of Cape West, and may be known by a white cliffon one of the isles which lies in the entrance of the bay. This part of thecoast I did not see, but at a great distance, in my former voyage; and wenow saw it under so many disadvantageous circumstances, that the less I sayabout it, the fewer mistakes I shall make. We stood out to sea, underclose-reefed top-sails and courses, till eleven o'clock at night; when wewore and stood to the northward, having a very high and irregular sea. Atfive o'clock next morning, the gale abated, and we bore up for the land; ateight o'clock, the West Cape bore E. By N. 1/2 N. , for which we steered, and entered Dusky Bay about noon. In the entrance of it, we found 44fathoms water, a sandy bottom, the West Cape bearing S. S. E. , and FiveFingers Point, or the north point of the bay, north. Here we had a greatswell rolling in from the S. W. The depth of water decreased to 40 fathoms, afterwards we had no ground with 60. We were, however, too far advanced toreturn; and therefore stood on, not doubting but that we should findanchorage. For in this bay we were all strangers; in my former voyage, having done no more than discover and name it. 

After running about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of theisles which lay in it, I brought-to, and hoisted out two boats; one ofwhich I sent away with an officer round a point on the larboard hand tolook for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by signal. Wethen followed with the ship, and anchored in 50 fathoms water, so near theshore as to reach it with an hawser. This was on Friday the 26th of March, at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea; in which timewe had sailed 3600 leagues, without having once sight of land. 

After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern latitude, it isbut reasonable to think that many of my people must be ill of the scurvy. The contrary, however, happened. Mention hath already been made of sweetwort being given to such as were scorbutic. This had so far the desiredeffect, that we had only one man on board that could be called very ill ofthis disease; occasioned chiefly, by a bad habit of body, and acomplication of other disorders. We did not attribute the general goodstate of health in the crew, wholly to the sweet wort, but to the frequentairing and sweetening the ship by fires, &c. We must also allow portablebroth, and sour krout, to have had some share in it. This last can never beenough recommended. 

My first care, after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and people a-fishing; in the mean time, some of the gentlemen killed a seal, (out ofmany that were upon a rock, ) which made us a fresh meal. 

 [1] "The two time-keepers being put on each side of the great cabin, I put a thermometer by each, and before a fire was kept in the cabin, I never saw them differ more than half a degree; but since there has been a fire, I have constantly found that thermometer highest, which happened to be on the weather-side, sometimes by three degrees, whereas one would naturally have expected it to have been just the contrary. "--W. 

 The rapidity of the current of moist air would be no doubt greater on the other side, and therefore, as moisture occasions cold, would lower the thermometer on that side. On the weather-side, on the contrary, the air would be less quickly changed, and of course preserve greater uniformity of temperature. This explanation, however, depends on a certain supposition as to the form of the cabin, and its kind of communication with the external air. --E. 

 [2] "The natural state of the heavens, except in the south-east quarter, and for about ten degrees of altitude all round the horizon, was a whitish haze, through which stars of the third magnitude were just discernible. All round, the horizon was covered with thick clouds, out of which arose many streams of a pale reddish light, that ascended towards the zenith. These streams had not that motion which they are sometimes seen to have in England; but were perfectly steady, except a small tremulous motion which some of them had near their edges. 

 "19th. --In the night the southern lights were very bright at times, and the colours much more various and vivid than they were on Wednesday night, their motion also was greater, so that on the whole they were extremely beautiful. 

 "20th. --At nine o'clock in the evening, the southern light sprung up very bright about the east point of the horizon, in a single steady pillar, of a pale reddish light. Its direction was not directly towards the zenith, but gradually deflected towards the south, and grew fainter as it ascended, so as to vanish about south-east, and at forty-five degrees of altitude. 

 "15th March. --The southern lights very bright at times, and exceeding beautiful; their colours being vivid, and their motion quick and curious. 

 "18th. --A little after nine o'clock in the evening it was very clear, and the southern lights were exceeding bright and beautiful, and appeared of a semi-circular or rainbow-like form, whose two extremities were nearly in the east and west points of the horizon. This bow, when it first made its appearance, passed a considerable way to the north of the zenith; but rose by degrees, turning, as it were, on its diameter, and passing through the zenith, settled at length towards the southern horizon. These lights were at one time so bright, that we could discern our shadows on the deck. "--W. 

 It was thought proper to bring together all these similar remarks of so accurate and faithful an observer. There is reason to believe that the southern lights had never been seen by any navigator before this voyage of Cook's. --E. 

 [3] "The shapes of these large frozen masses, were frequently singularly ruinous, and so far picturesque enough; among them we passed one of a great size, with a hollow in the middle, resembling a grotto or cavern, which was pierced through, and admitted the light from the other side. Some had the appearance of a spire or steeple; and many others gave full scope to our imagination, which compared them to several known objects, by that means attempting to overcome the tediousness of our cruise, which the sight of birds, porpoises, seals, and whales, now too familiar to our eyes, could not prevent from falling heavily upon us. "--G. F. 

 [4] "One island of ice, which we passed in the afternoon, was near a mile and a half long, and very high. It was calm most part of the night, so that we found ourselves very near it in the morning, but observed that several very large pieces had broke off from it. Many great reports, like thunder, were heard in the night, which I conceive were occasioned by these pieces breaking off. "--W. 

SECTION IV. 

_Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several Interviews withthe Inhabitants. _

As I did not like the place we had anchored in, I sent LieutenantPickersgill over to the S. E. Side of the bay, to search for a better; and Iwent myself to the other side, for the same purpose, where I met with anexceedingly snug harbour, but nothing else worthy of notice. Mr Pickersgillreported, upon his return, that he had found a good harbour, with everyconveniency. As I liked the situation of this, better than the other of myown finding, I determined to go there in the morning. The fishing-boat wasvery successful; returning with fish sufficient for all hands for supper;and, in a few hours in the morning, caught as many as served for dinner. This gave us certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild fowl; so that wehoped to enjoy with ease, what, in our situation, might be called theluxuries of life. This determined me to stay some time in this bay, inorder to examine it thoroughly; as no one had ever landed before, on any ofthe southern parts of this country. 

On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we got under sail with a lightbreeze at S. W. , and working over to Pickersgill harbour, entered it by achannel scarcely twice the width of the ship; and in a small creek, mooredhead and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage, which nature had in a manner prepared for us in a large tree, whose end ortop reached our gunwale. Wood, for fuel and other purposes, was here soconvenient, that our yards were locked in the branches of the trees; and, about 100 yards from our stern, was a fine stream of freshwater. Thussituated, we began to clear places in the woods, in order to set up theastronomer's observatory, the forge to repair our iron-work, tents for thesail-makers and coopers to repair the sails and casks in; to land our emptycasks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel; all of which wereabsolutely necessary occupations. We also began to brew beer from thebranches or leaves of a tree, which much resembles the American black-spruce. From the knowledge I had of this tree, and the similarity it boreto the spruce, I judged that, with the addition of inspissated juice ofwort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the wantof vegetables, which this place did not afford; and the event proved that Iwas not mistaken. 

Now I have mentioned the inspissated juice of wort, it will not be amiss, in this place, to inform the reader, that I had made several trials of itsince I left the Cape of Good Hope, and found it to answer in a coldclimate, beyond all expectation. The juice, diluted in warm water, in theproportion of twelve parts water to one part juice, made a very good andwell-tasted small-beer. Some juice which I had of Mr Pelham's ownpreparing, would bear sixteen parts water. By making use of warm-water, (which I think ought always to be done, ) and keeping it in a warm place, ifthe weather be cold, no difficulty will be found in fermenting it. A littlegrounds of either small or strong-beer, will answer as well as yeast. 

The few sheep and goats we had left were not likely to fare quite so wellas ourselves; there being no grass here, but what was coarse and harsh. Itwas, however not so bad, but that we expected they would devour it withgreat greediness, and were the more surprised to find that they would nottaste it; nor did they seem over-fond of the leaves of more tender plants. Upon examination, we found their teeth loose; and that many of them hadevery other symptom of an inveterate sea-scurvy. Out of four ewes and tworams which I brought from the Cape, with an intent to put ashore in thiscountry, I had only been able to preserve one of each; and even these werein so bad a state, that it was doubtful if they could recover, notwithstanding all the care possible had been taken of them. 

Some of the officers, on the 28th, went up the bay in a small boat on ashooting party; but, discovering inhabitants, they returned before noon, toacquaint me therewith; for hitherto we had not seen the least vestige ofany. They had but just got aboard, when a canoe appeared off a point abouta mile from us, and soon after, returned behind the point out of sight, probably owing to a shower of rain which then fell; for it was no soonerover, than the canoe again appeared, and came within musket-shot of theship. There were in it seven or eight people. They remained looking at usfor some time, and then returned; all the signs of friendship we could makedid not prevail on them to come nearer. After dinner I took two boats andwent in search of them, in the cove where they were first seen, accompaniedby several of the officers and gentlemen. We found the canoe (at leasta-canoe) hauled upon the shore near to two small huts, where were severalfire-places, some fishing-nets, a few fish lying on the shore, and some inthe canoe. But we saw no people; they probably had retired into the woods. After a short stay, and leaving in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses, beads, &c. We embarked and rowed to the head of the cove, where we foundnothing remarkable. In turning back we put ashore at the same place asbefore; but still saw no people. However, they could not be far off, as wesmelled the smoke of fire, though we did not see it. But I did not care tosearch farther, or to force an interview which they seemed to avoid; wellknowing that the way to obtain this, was to leave the time and place tothemselves. It did not appear that any thing I had left had been touched;however, I now added a hatchet, and, with the night, returned on board. 

On the 29th, were showers till the afternoon; when a party of the officersmade an excursion up the bay; and Mr Forster and his party were outbotanizing. Both parties returned in the evening without meeting with anything worthy of notice; and the two following days, every one was confinedto the ship on account of rainy stormy weather. 

In the afternoon of the 1st of April, accompanied by several of thegentlemen, I went to see if any of the articles I had left for the Indianswere taken away. We found every thing remaining in the canoe; nor did itappear that any body had been there since. After shooting some birds, oneof which was a duck, with a blue-grey plumage and soft bill, we, in theevening, returned on board. 

The 2d, being a pleasant morning, Lieutenants Clerke and Edgecumbe, and thetwo Mr Forsters, went in a boat up the bay to search for the productions ofnature; and myself, Lieutenant Pickersgill, and Mr Hodges, went to take aview of the N. W. Side. In our way, we touched at the seal-rock, and killedthree seals, one of which afforded us much sport. After passing severalisles, we at length came to the most northern and western arms of the bay;the same as is formed by the land of Five Fingers Point. In the bottom ofthis arm or cove, we found many ducks, wood-hens, and other wild fowl, someof which we killed, and returned on board at ten o'clock in the evening;where the other party had arrived several hours before us, after having hadbut indifferent sport. They took with them a black dog we had got at theCape, who, at the first musket they fired, ran into the woods, from whencehe would not return. The three following days were rainy; so that noexcursions were made. 

Early in the morning on the 6th, a shooting party, made up of the officers, went to Goose Cove, the place where I was the 2d; and myself, accompaniedby the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Hodges, set out to continue the survey ofthe bay. My attention was directed to the north side, where I discovered afine capacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-water river; on thewest side several beautiful small cascades; and the shores are so steepthat a ship might lie near enough to convey the water into her by a hose. In this cove we shot fourteen ducks, besides other birds, which occasionedmy calling it Duck Cove. 

As we returned in the evening, we had a short interview with three of thenatives, one man and two women. They were the first that discoveredthemselves on the N. E. Point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion. We should have passed without seeing them, had not the man hallooed to us. He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behindhim, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each of them aspear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when weapproached the rock with our boat. He however stood firm; nor did he moveto take up some things we threw him ashore. At length I landed, went up andembraced him; and presented him with such articles as I had about me, whichat once dissipated his fears. Presently after, we were joined by the twowomen, the gentlemen that were with me, and some of the seamen. After this, we spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. Thisoccasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in anypart of the world. We presented them with fish and fowl which we had in ourboat; but these they threw into the boat again, giving us to understandthat such things they wanted not. Night approaching, obliged us to takeleave of them; when the youngest of the two women, whose volubility oftongue exceeded every thing I ever met with, gave us a dance; but the manviewed us with great attention. Some hours after we got on board, the otherparty returned, having had but indifferent sport. 

Next morning, I made the natives another visit, accompanied by Mr Forsterand Mr Hodges, carrying with me various articles which I presented themwith, and which they received with a great deal of indifference, excepthatchets and spike-nails; these they most esteemed. This interview was atthe same place as last night; and now we saw the whole family, it consistedof the man, his two wives (as we supposed), the young woman beforementioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small children, theyoungest of which was at the breast. They were all well-looking, except onewoman, who had a large wen on her upper-lip, which made her disagreeable;and she seemed, on that account, to be in a great measure neglected by theman. They conducted us to their habitation, which was but a little waywithin the skirts of the wood, and consisted of two mean huts made of thebark of trees. Their canoe, which was a small double one, just large enoughto transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creeknear the huts. During our stay, Mr Hodges made drawings of most of them;this occasioned them to give him the name of _Toe-toe_, which word, wesuppose signifies marking or painting. When we took leave, the chiefpresented me with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, and some other trifles. I at first thought it was meant as a return for thepresents I had made him; but he soon undeceived me, by expressing a desirefor one of our boat cloaks. I took the hint, and ordered one to be made forhim of red baise, as soon as I got aboard; where rainy weather detained methe following day. 

The 9th, being fair weather, we paid the natives another visit, and madeknown our approach by hallooing to them; but they neither answered us, normet us at the shore as usual. The reason of this we soon saw; for we foundthem at their habitations, all dressed and dressing, in their very best, with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their heads, and stuck with white feathers. Some wore a fillet of feathers round theirheads; and all of them had bunches of white feathers stuck in their ears:Thus dressed, and all standing, they received us with great courtesy. Ipresented the chief with the cloak I had got made for him, with which heseemed so well pleased, that he took his pattapattou from his girdle andgave it me. After a short stay, we took leave; and having spent theremainder of the day in continuing my survey of the bay, with the nightreturned on board. 

Very heavy rains falling on the two following days, no work was done; butthe 12th proved clear and serene, and afforded us an opportunity to dry oursails and linen; two things very much wanted; not having had fair weatherenough for this purpose since we put into this bay. Mr Forster and hisparty also profited by the day in botanizing. 

About ten o'clock, the family of the natives paid us a visit. Seeing thatthey approached the ship with great caution, I met them in a boat, which Iquitted when I got to them, and went into their canoe. Yet, after all, Icould not prevail on them to put along-side the ship, and at last wasobliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they putashore in a little creek hard by us; and afterwards came and sat down onthe shore a-breast of the ship, near enough to speak with us. I now causedthe bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to beat. The two first they didnot regard; but the latter caused some little attention in them; nothinghowever could induce them to come on board. But they entered, with greatfamiliarity, into conversation (little understood) with such of theofficers and seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to somethan to others; and these, we had reason to believe, they took for women. To one man in particular, the young woman shewed an extraordinary fondnessuntil she discovered his sex, after which she would not suffer him to comenear her. Whether it was that she before took him for one of her own sex, or that the man, in order to discover himself, had taken some libertieswith her which she thus resented, I know not. 

In the afternoon, I took Mr Hodges to a large cascade, which falls from ahigh mountain on the south side of the bay, about a league above the placewhere we lay. He made a drawing of it on paper, and afterwards painted itin oil colours; which exhibits, at once, a better description of it thanany I can give. Huge heaps of stones lay at the foot of this cascade, whichhad been broken off and brought by the stream from the adjacent mountains. These stones were of different sorts; none however, according to MrForster's opinion, (whom I believe to be a judge, ) containing eitherminerals or metals. Nevertheless, I brought away specimens of every sort, as the whole country, that is, the rocky part of it, seemed to consist ofthose stones and no other. This cascade is at the east point of a cove, lying in S. W. Two miles, which I named Cascade Cove. In it is goodanchorage and other necessaries. At the entrance, lies an island, on eachside of which is a passage; that on the east side is much the widest. Alittle above the isle, and near the S. E. Shore, are two rocks which arecovered at high water. It was in this cove we first saw the natives. 

When I returned aboard in the evening, I found our friends, the natives, had taken up their quarters at about a hundred yards from our watering-place; a very great mark of the confidence they placed in us. This eveninga shooting party of the officers went over to the north side of the bay, having with them the small cutter to convey them from place to place. 

Next morning, accompanied by Mr Forster, I went in the pinnace to surveythe isles and rocks which lie in the mouth of the bay. I began first withthose which lie on the S. E. Side of Anchor Isle. I found here a very snugcove sheltered from all winds, which we called Luncheon Cove, because herewe dined on cray fish, on the side of a pleasant brook, shaded by the treesfrom both wind and sun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out to theoutermost isles, where we saw many seals, fourteen of which we killed andbrought away with us; and might have got many more, if the surf hadpermitted us to land with safety on all the rocks. The next morning, I wentout again to continue the survey, accompanied by Mr Forster. I intended tohave landed again on the Seal Isles; but there ran such a high sea that Icould not come near them. With some difficulty we rowed out to sea, andround the S. W. Point of Anchor Isle. It happened very fortunately thatchance directed me to take this course, in which we found the sportsmen'sboat adrift, and laid hold of her the very moment she would have beendashed against the rocks. I was not long at a loss to guess how she camethere, nor was I under any apprehensions for the gentlemen that had been inher; and after refreshing ourselves with such as we had to eat and drink, and securing the boat in a small creek, we proceeded to the place where wesupposed them to be. This we reached about seven or eight o'clock in theevening, and found them upon a small isle in Goose Cove, where, as it waslow water, we could not come with our boat until the return of the tide. Asthis did not happen till three o'clock in the morning, we landed on a nakedbeach, not knowing where to find a better place, and, after some time, having got a fire and broiled some fish, we made a hearty supper, havingfor sauce a good appetite. This done, we lay down to sleep, having a stonybeach for a bed, and the canopy of heaven for a covering. At length thetide permitted us to take off the sportsmen; and with them we embarked, andproceeded for the place where we had left their boat, which, we soonreached, having a fresh breeze of wind in our favour, attended with rain. When we came to the creek which was on the N. W. Side of Anchor Isle, wefound there an immense number of blue peterels, some on the wing, others inthe woods in holes in the ground, under the roots of trees and in thecrevices of rocks, where there was no getting them, and where we supposedtheir young were deposited. As not one was to be seen in the day, the oldones were probably, at that time, out at sea searching for food, which inthe evening they bring to their young. The noise they made was like thecroaking of many frogs. They were, I believe, of the broad-bill kind, which, are not so commonly seen at sea as the others. Here, however, theyare in great numbers, and flying much about in the night, some of ourgentlemen at first took them for bats. After restoring the sportsmen totheir boat, we all proceeded for the ship, which we reached by seveno'clock in the morning, not a little fatigued with our expedition. I nowlearned that our friends the natives returned to their habitation at night;probably foreseeing that rain was at hand; which sort of weather continuedthe whole of this day. 

On the morning of the 15th, the weather having cleared up and become fair, I set out with two boats to continue the survey of the N. W. Side of thebay, accompanied by the two Mr Forsters and several of the officers, whom Idetached in one boat to Goose Cove, where we intended to lodge the night, while I proceeded in the other, examining the harbours and isles which layin my way. In the doing of this, I picked up about a score of wild fowl, and caught fish sufficient to serve the whole party; and reaching the placeof rendezvous a little before dark, I found all the gentlemen out duck-shooting. They however soon returned, not overloaded with game. By thistime, the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required; andafter a hearty repast, on what the day had produced, we lay down to rest;but took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the otherbout among the ducks, before we left the cove. 

Accordingly, at day-light, we prepared for the attack. Those who hadreconnoitred the place before, chose their stations accordingly; whilstmyself and another remained in the boat, and rowed to the head of the coveto start the game, which we did so effectually, that, out of some scores ofducks, we only detained one to ourselves, sending all the rest down tothose stationed below. After this I landed at the head of the cove, andwalked across the narrow isthmus that disjoins it from the sea, or ratherfrom another cove which runs in from the sea about one mile, and lies opento the north winds. It, however, had all the appearance of a good harbourand safe anchorage. At the head is a fine sandy beach, where I found animmense number of wood hens, and brought away ten couple of them, whichrecompensed me for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through the wetwoods, up to the middle in water. About nine o'clock we all got collectedtogether, when the success of everyone was known, which was by no meansanswerable to our expectations. The morning, indeed, was very unfavourablefor shooting, being rainy the most of the time we were out. After breakfastwe set out on our return to the ship, which we reached by seven o'clock inthe evening, with about seven dozen of wild fowl, and two seals; the mostof them shot while I was rowing about, exploring the harbours and coveswhich I found in my way; every place affording something, especially to us, to whom nothing came amiss. 

It rained all the 17th, but the 18th bringing fair and clear weather, inthe evening our friends, the natives before-mentioned, paid us anothervisit; and, the next morning, the chief and his daughter were induced tocome on board, while the others went out in the canoe fishing. Before theycame on board I shewed them our goats and sheep that were on shore, whichthey viewed for a moment with a kind of stupid insensibility. After this Iconducted them to the brow; but before the chief set his foot upon it tocome into the ship, he took a small green branch in his hand, with which hestruck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. Whenthis was over, he threw the branch into the main chains, and came on board. This custom and manner of making peace, as it were, is practised by all thenations in the South Seas that I have seen. 

I took them both down into the cabin, where we were to breakfast. They satat table with us, but would not taste any of our victuals. The chief wantedto know where we slept, and indeed to pry into every corner of the cabin, every part of which he viewed with some surprise. But it was not possibleto fix his attention to any one thing a single moment. The works of artappeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were as farremoved beyond his comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was thenumber and strength of our decks, and other parts of the ship. The chief, before he came aboard, presented me with a piece of cloth and a green talchatchet; to Mr Forster he also gave a piece or cloth; and the girl gaveanother to Mr Hodges. This custom of making presents before they receiveany, is common with the natives of the South Sea isles; but I never saw itpractised in New Zealand before. Of all the various articles I gave myguest, hatchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in his eyes. 

These he never would suffer to go out of his hands after he once laid holdof them; whereas many other articles he would lay carelessly down anywhere, and at last leave them behind him. 

As soon as I could get quit of them, they were conducted into the gun-room, where I left them, and set out with two boats to examine the head of thebay; myself in one, accompanied by Mr Forster and Mr Hodges, and LieutenantCooper in the other. We proceeded up the south side, and without meetingwith any thing remarkable, got to the head of the bay by sun-set; where wetook up our lodging for the night, at the first place we could land upon;for the flats hindered us from getting quite to the head. 

At day-light in the morning, I took two men in the small boat, and with MrForster went to take a view of the flat land at the head of the bay, nearto where we spent the night. We landed on one side, and ordered the boat tomeet us on the other side; but had not been long on shore before we sawsome ducks, which, by their creeping through the bushes, we got a shot at, and killed one. The moment we had fired, the natives, whom we had notdiscovered before, set up a most hideous noise in two or three places closeby us. We hallooed in our turn; and, at the same time, retired to our boat, which was full half a mile off. The natives kept up their clamouring noise, but did not follow us. Indeed we found afterwards that they could not, because of a branch of the river between us and them, nor did we find theirnumbers answerable to the noise they made. As soon as we got to our boat, and found that there was a river that would admit us, I rowed in, and wassoon after joined by Mr Cooper in the other boat. With this reinforcement Iproceeded up the river, shooting wild ducks, of which there were greatnumbers; as we went along, now and then hearing the natives in the woods. At length two appeared on the banks of the river, a man and a woman; andthe latter kept waving something white in her hand, as a sign offriendship. Mr Cooper being near them, I called to him to land, as I wantedto take the advantage of the tide to get as high up as possible, which didnot much exceed half a mile, when I was stopped by the strength of thestream and great stones which lay in the bed of the river. 

On my return, I found that as Mr Cooper did not land when the nativesexpected him, they had retired into the woods, but two others now appearedon the opposite bank. I endeavoured to have an interview with them, butthis I could not effect. For as I approached the shore, they always retiredfarther into the woods, which were so thick as to cover them from oursight. The falling tide obliged me to retire out of the river to the placewhere we had spent the night. There we breakfasted, and afterwardsembarked, in order to return on board; but, just as we were going, we sawtwo men on the opposite shore, hallooing to us, which induced me to rowover to them. I landed with two others, unarmed; the two natives standingabout 100 yards from the water-side, with each a spear in his hand. When wethree advanced, they retired; but stood when I advanced alone. 

It was some little time before I could prevail upon them to lay down theirspears. This, at last, one of them did; and met me with a grass plant inhis hand, one end of which he gave me to hold, while he held the other. Standing in this manner, he began a speech, not one word of which Iunderstood, and made some long pauses, waiting, as I thought, for me toanswer; for, when I spoke, he proceeded. As soon as this ceremony was over, which was not long, we saluted each other. He then took his hahou, or coat, from off his own back, and put it upon mine; after which peace seemedfirmly established. More people joining us did not in the least alarm them;on the contrary, they saluted every one as he came up. 

I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with me: Perhapsthese were the most valuable things I could give them, at least they werethe most useful. They wanted us to go to their habitation, telling us theywould give us something to eat; and I was sorry that the tide and othercircumstances would not permit me to accept of their invitation. Morepeople were seen in the skirts of the wood, but none of them joined us:Probably these were their wives and children. When we took leave theyfollowed us to our boat; and, seeing the musquets lying across the stern, they made signs for them to be taken away, which being done, they camealongside, and assisted us to launch her. At this time it was necessary forus to look well after them, for they wanted to take away every thing theycould lay their hands upon, except the muskets. These they took care not totouch, being taught, by the slaughter they had seen us make among the wild-fowl, to look upon them as instruments of death. 

We saw no canoes or other boats with them, two or three logs of wood tiedtogether served the same purpose, and were indeed sufficient for thenavigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived. There fish andfowl were in such plenty, that they had no occasion to go far for food; andthey have but few neighbours to disturb them. The whole number at thisplace, I believe, does not exceed three families. 

It was noon when we took leave of these two men, and proceeded down thenorth side of the bay, which I explored in my way, and the isles that liein the middle. Night, however, overtook us, and obliged me to leave one armunlooked into, and hasten to the ship, which we reached by eight o'clock. Ithen learnt that the man and his daughter stayed on board the day beforetill noon; and that having understood from our people what things were leftin Cascade Cove, the place where they were first seen, he sent and tookthem away. He and his family remained near us till today, when they allwent away, and we saw them no more; which was the more extraordinary, as henever left us empty-handed. From one or another he did not get less thannine or ten hatchets, three or four times that number of large spike-nails, besides many other articles. So far as these things may be counted richesin New Zealand, he exceeds every man there; being, at this time, possessedof more hatchets and axes than are in the whole country besides. 

In the afternoon of the 21st, I went with a party out to the isles on seal-hunting. The surf ran so high that we could only land in one place, wherewe killed ten. These animals served us for three purposes; the skins wemade use of for our rigging; the fat gave oil for our lamps; and the fleshwe eat. Their haslets are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of some ofthem eats little inferior to beef-steaks. The following day nothing worthyof notice was done. 

In the morning of the 23d, Mr Pickersgill, Mr Gilbert, and two others, wentto the Cascade Cove, in order to ascend one of the mountains, the summit ofwhich they reached by two o'clock in the afternoon, as we could see by thefire they made. In the evening they returned on board, and reported thatinland, nothing was to be seen but barren mountains, with huge craggyprecipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasms, frightful to behold. Onthe southeast side of Cape West, four miles out at sea, they discovered aridge of rocks, on which the waves broke very high. I believe these rocksto be the same we saw the evening we first fell in with the land. 

Having five geese left out of those we brought from the Cape of Good Hope, I went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account, )where I left them. I chose this place for two reasons; first, here are noinhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, here being the most food, Imake no doubt but that they will breed, and may in time spread over thewhole country, and fully answer my intention in leaving them. We spent theday shooting in and about the cove, and returned aboard about ten o'clockin the evening. One of the party shot a white hern, which agreed exactlywith Mr Pennant's description, in his British Zoology, of the white hernsthat either now are, or were formerly, in England. 

The 20th was the eighth fair day we had had successively; a circumstance, Ibelieve, very uncommon in this place, especially at this season of theyear. This fair weather gave us an opportunity to complete our wood andwater, to overhaul the rigging, caulk the ship, and put her in a conditionfor sea. Fair weather was, however, now at an end; for it began to rainthis evening, and continued without intermission till noon the next day, when we cast off the shore fasts, hove the ship out of the creek to heranchor, and steadied her with an hawser to the shore. 

On the 27th, hazy weather, with showers of rain. In the morning I set out, accompanied by Mr Pickersgill and the two Mr Forsters, to explore the armor inlet I discovered the day I returned from the head of the bay. Afterrowing about two leagues up it, or rather down, I found it to communicatewith the sea, and to afford a better outlet for ships bound to the norththan the one I came in by. After making this discovery, and refreshingourselves on broiled fish and wild fowl, we set out for the ship, and goton board at eleven o'clock at night, leaving two arms we had discovered, and which ran into the east, unexplored. In this expedition we shot forty-four birds, sea-pies, ducks, &c. , without going one foot out of our way, orcausing any other delay than picking them up. 

Having got the tents, and every other article on board on the 28th, we onlynow waited for a wind to carry us out of the harbour, and through NewPassage, the way I proposed to go to sea. Every thing being removed fromthe shore, I set fire to the top-wood, &c. , in order to dry a piece of theground we had occupied, which, next morning, I dug up, and sowed withseveral sorts of garden seeds. The soil was such as did not promise successto the planter; it was, however, the best we could find. At two o clock inthe afternoon, we weighed with a light breeze at S. W. , and stood up the bayfor the New Passage. Soon after we had got through, between the east end ofIndian Island and the west end of Long Island, it fell calm, which obligedus to anchor in forty-three fathom water, under the north side of thelatter island. 

In the morning of the 30th we weighed again with a light breeze at west, which, together with all our boats a-head towing, was hardly sufficient tostem the current. For, after struggling till six o'clock in the evening, and not getting more than five miles from our last anchoring-place, weanchored under the north side of Long Island, not more than one hundredyards from the shore, to which we fastened a hawser. 

At day-light next morning, May 1st, we got again under sail, and attemptedto work to windward, having a light breeze down the bay. At first we gainedground, but at last the breeze died away; when we soon lost more than wehad got, and were obliged to bear up for a cove on the north side of LongIsland, where we anchored in nineteen fathom water, a muddy bottom: In thiscove we found two huts not long since inhabited; and near them two verylarge fire-places or ovens, such as they have in the Society Isles. In thiscove we were detained by calms, attended with continual rain, till the 4thin the afternoon, when, with the assistance of a small breeze at south-west, we got the length of the reach or passage leading to sea. The breezethen left us, and we anchored under the east point, before a sandy beach, in thirty fathoms water; but this anchoring-place hath nothing to recommendit like the one we came from, which hath every thing in its favour. 

In the night we had some very heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain, hail, and snow, and some thunder. Daylight exhibited to our view all thehills and mountains covered with snow. At two o'clock in the afternoon, alight breeze sprung up at S. S. W. , which, with the help of our boats, carried us down the passage to our intended anchor-place, where, at eighto'clock, we anchored in sixteen fathoms water, and moored with a hawser tothe shore, under the first point on the starboard side as you come in fromsea, from which we were covered by the point. 

In the morning of the 6th, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill, accompanied bythe two Mr Forsters, to explore the second arm which turns in to the east, myself being confined on board by a cold. At the same time I had everything got up from between decks, the decks well cleaned and well aired withfires; a thing that ought never to be long neglected in wet moist weather. The fair weather, which had continued all this day, was succeeded in thenight by a storm from north-west, which blew in hard squalls, attended withrain, and obliged us to strike top-gallant and lower yards, and to carryout another hawser to the shore. The bad weather continued the whole dayand the succeeding night, after which it fell calm with fair weather. 

At seven in the morning, on the 8th, Mr Pickersgill returned, together withhis companions, in no very good plight, having been at the head of the armhe was sent to explore, which he judged to extend in to the eastward abouteight miles. In it is a good anchoring-place, wood, fresh water, wild fowl, and fish. At nine o'clock I set out to explore the other inlet, or the onenext the sea; and ordered Mr Gilbert, the master, to go and examine thepassage out to sea, while those on board were getting every thing inreadiness to depart. I proceeded up the inlet till five o'clock in theafternoon, when bad weather obliged me to return before I had seen the endof it. As this inlet lay nearly parallel with the sea-coast, I was ofopinion that it might communicate with Doubtful Harbour, or some otherinlet to the northward. Appearances were, however, against this opinion, and the bad weather hindered me from determining the point, although a fewhours would have done it. I was about ten miles up, and thought I saw theend of it: I found on the north side three coves, in which, as also on thesouth side, between the main and the isles that lie four miles up theinlet, is good anchorage, wood, water, and what else can be expected, suchas fish and wild fowl: Of the latter, we killed in this excursion, threedozen. After a very hard row, against both wind and rain, we got on boardabout nine o'clock at night, without a dry thread on our backs. 

This bad weather continued no longer than till the next morning, when itbecame fair, and the sky cleared up. But, as we had not wind to carry us tosea, we made up two shooting parties; myself, accompanied by the twoMr. Forsters and some others, went to the area I was in the day before;and the other party to the coves and isles Mr Gilbert had discovered whenhe was out, and where he found many wild fowl. We had a pleasant day, andthe evening brought us all on board; myself and party met with good sport;but the other party found little. 

All the forenoon of the 10th, we had strong gales from the west, attendedwith heavy showers of rain, and blowing in such flurries over high land, asmade it unsafe for us to get under sail. The afternoon was more moderate, and became fair; when myself, Mr Cooper, and some others, went out in theboats to the rocks, which lie at this entrance of the bay, to kill seals. The weather was rather unfavourable for this sport, and the sea ran high, so as to make landing difficult; we, however, killed ten, but could onlywait to bring away five, with which we returned on board. 

In the morning of the 11th, while we were getting under sail, I sent a boatfor the other five seals. At nine o'clock we weighed with a light breeze atsouth-east, and stood out to sea, taking up the boat in our way. It wasnoon before we got clear of the land; at which time we observed in 45° 34'30" S. ; the entrance of the bay bore S. E. By E. , and Break-sea Isles (theoutermost isles that lie at the south point of the entrance of the bay, )bore S. S. E. , distant three miles; the southernmost point, or that of FiveFingers Point, bore south 42° W. , and the northernmost land N. N. E. In thissituation we had a prodigious swell from S. W. , which broke with greatviolence on all the shores that were exposed to it. 

SECTION V. 

_Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account of theadjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and NauticalObservations. _

As there are few places where I have been in New Zealand that afford thenecessary refreshments in such plenty as Dusky Bay, a short description ofit, and of the adjacent country, may prove of use to some futurenavigators, as well as acceptable to the curious reader. For although thiscountry be far remote from the present trading part of the world, we can, by no means, tell what use future ages may make of the discoveries made inthe present. The reader of this journal must already know that there aretwo entrances to this bay. The south entrance is situated on the north sideof Cape West, in latitude 45° 48' S. It is formed by the land of the Capeto the south, and Five Fingers Point to the north. This point is maderemarkable by several pointed rocks lying off it, which, when viewed fromcertain situations, have some resemblance to the five fingers of a man'shand; from whence it takes its name. The land of this point is still moreremarkable by the little similarity it bears to any other of the landsadjacent; being a narrow peninsula lying north and south, of a moderate andequal height, and all covered with wood. 

To sail into the bay by this entrance is by no means difficult, as I knowof no danger but what shews itself. The worst that attends it, is the depthof water, which is too great to admit of anchorage, except in the coves andharbours, and very near the shores; and even, in many places, this lastcannot be done. The anchoring-places are, however, numerous enough, andequally safe and commodious. Pickersgill Harbour, where we lay, is notinferior to any other bay, for two or three ships: It is situated on thesouth shore abreast of the west end of Indian island; which island may beknown from the others by its greater proximity to that shore. There is apassage into the harbour on both sides of the isle, which lies before it. The most room is on the upper or east side, having regard to a sunken rock, near the main, abreast this end of the isle: Keep the isle close aboard, and you will not only avoid the rock, but keep in anchoring-ground. Thenext place, on this side, is Cascade Cove, where there is room for a fleetof ships, and also a passage in on either side of the isle, which lies inthe entrance, taking care to avoid a sunken rock which lies near the south-east shore, a little above the isle. This rock, as well as the one inPickersgill Harbour, may be seen at half-ebb It must be needless toenumerate all the anchoring-places in this capacious bay. 

The north entrance lies in the latitude of 45° 38' S. , and five leagues tothe north of Five Fingers Point. To make this entrance plain, it will benecessary to approach the shore within a few miles, as all the land withinand on each side is of considerable height. Its situation may, however, beknown at a greater distance, as it lies under the first craggy mountainswhich rise to the north of the land of Five Fingers Point. The southernmostof these mountains is remarkable, having at its summit two small hillocks. When this mountain bears S. S. E. You will be before the entrance, on thesouth side of which are several isles. The westernmost and outermost is themost considerable, both for height and circuit, and this I have calledBreak sea Isle, because it effectually covers this entrance from theviolence of the southwest swell, which the other entrance is so muchexposed to. In sailing in you leave this isle as well as all the others tothe south. The best anchorage is in the first or north arm, which is on thelarboard hand going in, either in one of the coves, or behind the islesthat lie under the south-east shore. 

The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, butthrough all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poenammoo. Aprospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with, for inland appearsnothing but the summits of mountains of a stupendous height, and consistingof rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are coveredwith snow. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The treesare of various kinds, such as are common to other parts of this country, and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and manyother uses. Except in the river Thames, I have not seen finer timber in allNew Zealand; both here and in that river, the most considerable for size isthe Spruce-tree, as we called it, from the similarity of its foliage to theAmerican spruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears a greaterresemblance to the pitch-pine. Many of these trees are from six to eightand ten feet in girt, and from sixty to eighty or one hundred feet inlength, large enough to make a main-mast for a fifty-gun ship. 

Here are, as well as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number ofaromatic trees and shrubs, most of the myrtle kind; but amidst all thisvariety, we met with none which bore fruit fit to eat. 

In many parts the woods are so over-run with supplejacks, that it isscarcely possible to force one's way amongst them. I have seen severalwhich were fifty or sixty fathoms long. 

The soil is a deep black mould, evidently composed of decayed vegetables, and so loose that it sinks under you at every step; and this may be thereason why we meet with so many large trees as we do, blown down by thewind, even in the thickest part of the woods. All the ground amongst thetrees is covered with moss and fern, of both which there is a greatvariety; but except the flax or hemp plant, and a few other plants, thereis very little herbage of any sort, and none that was eatable, that wefound, except about a handful of water-cresses, and about the same quantityof cellery. What Dusky Bay most abounds with is fish: A boat with six oreight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily sufficient to serve the wholeship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty, and of such kinds as are common to the more northern coast; but some aresuperior, and in particular the cole fish, as we called it, which is bothlarger and finer flavoured than any I had seen before, and was, in theopinion of most on board, the highest luxury the sea afforded us. Theshell-fish are, muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many othersorts, all such as are to be found in every other part of the coast. Theonly amphibious animals are seals: These are to be found in great numbersabout this bay on the small rocks and isles near the sea coast. 

We found here five different kinds of ducks, some of which I do notrecollect to have any where seen before. The largest are as big as aMuscovy duck, with a very beautiful variegated plumage, on which account wecalled it the Painted Duck; both male and female have a large white spot oneach wing; the head and neck of the latter is white, but all the otherfeathers as well as those on the head and neck of the drake are of a darkvariegated colour. The second sort have a brown plumage, with bright greenfeathers in their wings, and are about the size of an English tame duck. The third sort is the blue-grey duck, before mentioned, or the whistlingduck, as some called them, from the whistling noise they made. What is mostremarkable in these is, that the end of their beaks is soft, and of askinny, or more properly, cartilaginous substance. The fourth sort issomething bigger than a teal, and all black except the drake, which hassome white feathers in his wing. There are but few of this sort, and we sawthem no where but in the river at the head of the bay. The last sort is agood deal like a teal, and very common, I am told, in England. The otherfowls, whether belonging to the sea and land, are the same that are to befound in common in other parts of this country, except the blue peterelbefore-mentioned, and the water or wood-hens. These last, although theyare numerous enough here, are so scarce in other parts, that I never sawbut one. The reason may be, that, as they cannot fly, they inhabit theskirts of the woods, and feed on the sea-beach, and are so very tame orfoolish, as to stand and stare at us till we knocked them down with astick. The natives may have, in a manner, wholly destroyed them. They are asort of rail, about the size and a good deal like a common dunghill hen;most of them are of a dirty black or dark-brown colour, and eat very wellin a pye or fricassée. Among the small birds I must not omit toparticularize the wattle-bird, poy-bird, and fan-tail, on account of theirsingularity, especially as I find they are not mentioned in the narrativeof my former voyage. 

The wattle-bird, so called, because it has two wattles under its beak aslarge as those of a small dunghill-cock, is larger, particularly in length, than an English black-bird. Its bill is short and thick, and its feathersof a dark lead colour; the colour of its wattles is a dull yellow, almostan orange colour. 

The poy-bird is less than the wattle-bird. The feathers of a fine mazarineblue, except those of its neck, which are of a most beautiful silver-grey, and two or three short white ones, which are on the pinion joint of thewing. Under its throat hang two little tufts of curled, snow-whiteleathers, called its _poies_, which being the Otaheitean word forearrings, occasioned our giving that name to the bird, which is not moreremarkable for the beauty of its plumage than for the sweetness of itsnote. The flesh is also most delicious, and was the greatest luxury thewoods afforded us. 

Of the fan-tail there are different sorts; but the body of the mostremarkable one is scarcely larger than a good filbert, yet it spreads atail of most beautiful plumage, full three quarters of a semi-circle, of atleast four or five inches radius. 

For three or four days after we arrived in Pickersgill harbour, and as wewere clearing the woods to set up our tents, &c. A four-footed animal wasseen by three or four of our people; but as no two gave the samedescription of it, I cannot say of what kind it is. All, however, agreed, that it was about the size of a cat, with short legs, and of a mousecolour. One of the seamen, and he who had the best view of it, said it hada bushy tail, and was the most like a jackall of any animal he knew. Themost probable conjecture is, that it is of a new species. Be this as itmay, we are now certain that this country is not so destitute of quadrupedsas was once thought. 

The most mischievous animals here are the small black sand flies, which arevery numerous, and so troublesome, that they exceed every thing of the kindI ever met with. Wherever they bite they cause a swelling, and such anintolerable itching, that it is not possible to refrain from scratching, which at last brings on ulcers like the small-pox. 

The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay;though perhaps this may only happen at this season of the year. Nevertheless, the situation of the country, the vast height, and nearnessof the mountains, seem to subject it to much rain at all times. Our people, who were daily exposed to the rain, felt no ill effects from it; on thecontrary, such as were sick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only beattributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh provisions itafforded. The beer certainly contributed not a little. As I have alreadyobserved, we at first made it of a decoction of the spruce leaves; butfinding that this alone made the beer too astringent, we afterwards mixedwith it an equal quantity of the tea plant (a name it obtained in my formervoyage, from our using it as tea then as we also did now, ) which partlydestroyed the astringency of the other, and made the beer exceedinglypalatable, and esteemed by every one on board. We brewed it in the samemanner as spruce-beer, and the process is as follows: First, make a strongdecoction of the small branches of the spruce and tea plants, by boilingthem three or four hours, or until the bark will strip with ease from offthe branches; then take them out of the copper, and put in the properquantity of molasses, ten gallons of which is sufficient to make a ton, ortwo hundred and forty gallons of beer; let this mixture just boil, then potit into the casks, and to it add an equal quantity of cold water, more orless, according to the strength of the decoction, or your taste: When thewhole is milk-warm, put in a little grounds of beer, or yeast, if you haveit, or any thing else that will cause fermentation, and in a few days thebeer will be fit to drink. After the casks have been brewed in two or threetimes the beer will generally ferment itself, especially if the weather iswarm. As I had inspissated juice of wort on board, and could not apply itto a better purpose, we used it together with molasses or sugar, to makethese two articles go farther. For of the former I had but one cask, and ofthe latter little to spare for this brewing. Had I known how well this beerwould have succeeded, and the great use it was of to the people, I shouldhave come better provided. Indeed I was partly discouraged by an experimentmade during my former voyage, which did not succeed then, owing, as I nowbelieve, to some mismanagement. 

Any one, who is in the least acquainted with spruce pines, will find thetree which I have distinguished by that name. There are three sorts of it;that which has the smallest leaves and deepest colour, is the sort webrewed with; but doubtless all three might safely serve that purpose. Thetea-plant is a small tree or shrub, with five white petals, or flower-leaves, shaped like those of a rose, having smaller ones of the same figurein the intermediate spaces, and twenty or more filaments or threads. Thetree sometimes grows to a moderate height, and is generally bare on thelower part, with a number of small branches growing close together towardsthe top. The leaves are small and pointed, like those of the myrtle; itbears a dry roundish seed-case, and grows commonly in dry places near theshores. The leaves, as I have already observed, were used by many of us astea, which has a very agreeable bitter and flavour when they are recent, but loses some of both when they are dried. When the infusion was madestrong, it proved emetic to some in the same manner as green tea. 

The inhabitants of this bay are of the same race of people with those inthe other parts of this country, speak the same language, and observenearly the same customs. These indeed seem to have a custom of makingpresents before they receive any, in which they come nearer to theOtaheiteans than the rest of their countrymen. What could induce three orfour families (for I believe there are not more) to separate themselves sofar from the society of the rest of their fellow-creatures, is not easy toguess. By our meeting with inhabitants in this place, it seems probablethat there are people scattered over all this southern island. But the manyvestiges of them in different parts of this bay, compared with the numberthat we actually saw, indicates that they live a wandering life; and, ifone may judge from appearances and circumstances, few as they are, theylive not in perfect amity, one family with another. For, if they did, whydo they not form themselves into some society? a thing not only natural toman, but observed even by the brute creation. 

I shall conclude this account of Dusky Bay with some observations made andcommunicated to me by Mr Wales. He found by a great variety ofobservations, that the latitude of his observatory at Pickersgill Harbour, was 45° 47' 26" half south; and, by the mean of several distances of themoon from the sun, that its longitude was 106° 18' E. , which is about halfa degree less than it is laid down in my chart constructed in my formervoyage. He found the variation of the needle or compass, by the mean ofthree different needles, to be 13° 49' E, and the dip of the south end 70°5' three quarters. The times of high water, on the full and change days, hefound to be at 10° 57', and the tide to rise and fall, at the former eightfeet, at the latter five feet eight inches. This difference, in the rise ofthe tides between the new and full moon, is a little extraordinary, and wasprobably occasioned at this time by some accidental cause, such as winds, &c. , but, be it as it will, I am well assured there was no error in theobservations. 

Supposing the longitude of the observatory to be as above, the error of MrKendal's watch, in longitude, will be 1° 48' minus, and that of Mr Arnold's39° 25'. The former was found to be gaining 6", 461 a-day on mean time, andthe latter losing 99", 361. Agreeably to these rates the longitude by themwas to be determined, until an opportunity of trying them again. 

I must observe, that in finding the longitude by Mr Kendal's watch, wesuppose it to have gone mean time from the Cape of Good Hope. Had its caperate been allowed, the error would not have been so great. 

SECTION VI. 

_Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlottes Sound, with an Account ofsome Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure. _

After leaving Dusky Bay, as hath been already mentioned, I directed mycourse along shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to findthe Adventure. In this passage we met with nothing remarkable, or worthy ofnotice, till the 17th at four o'clock in the afternoon. Being then aboutthree leagues to the westward of Cape Stephens; having a gentle gale atwest by south, and clear weather, the wind at once flattened to a calm, thesky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and seemed to forebodemuch wind. This occasioned as to clew up all our sails, and presently aftersix water-spouts were seen. Four rose and spent themselves between us andthe land; that is, to the south-west of us, the fifth was without us, thesixth first appeared in the south-west, at the distance of two or threemiles at least from us. Its progressive motion was to the north-east, notin a straight but in a crooked line, and passed within fifty yards of ourstern, without our feeling any of its effects. The diameter of the base ofthis spout I judged to be about fifty or sixty feet; that is, the seawithin this space was much agitated, and foamed up to a great height. Fromthis a tube, or round body, was formed, by which the water or air, or both, was carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. Some of our people saidthey saw a bird in the one near us, which was whirled round like the fly ofa jack, as it was carried upwards. During the time these spouts lasted, wehad now and then light puffs of wind from all points of the compass, withsome few slight showers of rain, which generally fell in large drops; andthe weather continued thick and hazy for some hours after, with variablelight breezes of wind. At length the wind fixed in its old point, and thesky resumed its former serenity. Some of these spouts appeared at times tobe stationary; and at other times to have a quick but very unequalprogressive motion, and always in a crooked line, sometimes one way andsometimes another; so that, once or twice, we observed them to cross oneanother. From the ascending motion of the bird, and several othercircumstances, it was very plain to us that these spouts were caused bywhirlwinds, and that the water in them was violently hurried upwards, anddid not descend from the clouds as I have heard some assert. The firstappearance of them is by the violent agitation and rising up of the water;and, presently after, you see a round column or tube forming from theclouds above, which apparently descends till it joins the agitated waterbelow. I say apparently, because I believe it not to be so in reality, butthat the tube is already formed from the agitated water below, and ascends, though at first it is either too small or too thin to be seen. When thetube is formed, or becomes visible, its apparent diameter increaseth tillit is pretty large; after that it decreaseth, and at last it breaks orbecomes invisible towards the lower part. Soon after the sea below resumesits natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to theclouds, where it is dissipated. The same tube would sometimes have avertical, and sometimes a crooked or inclined direction. The most rationalaccount I have read of water-spouts, is in Mr Falconer's Marine Dictionary, which is chiefly collected from the philosophical writings of the ingeniousDr Franklin. I have been told that the firing of a gun will dissipate them;and I am very sorry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough, and had a gun ready for the purpose; but as soon as the danger was past, Ithought no more about it, being too attentive in viewing theseextraordinary meteors At the time this happened, the barometer stood at 29, 75, and the thermometer at 56. [1]

In coming from Cape Farewell to Cape Stephens, I had a better view of thecoast than I had when I passed in my former voyage, and observed that aboutsix leagues to the east of the first-mentioned cape, is a spacious bay, which is covered from the sea by a low point of land. This is, I believe, the same that Captain Tasman anchored in on the 18th of December, 1642, andby him called Murderer's Bay, by reason of some of his men being killed bythe natives. Blind Bay, so named by me in my former voyage, lies to theS. E. Of this, and seems to run a long way inland to the south; the sight, in this direction, not being bounded by any land. The wind having returnedto the west, as already mentioned, we resumed our course to the east; andat day-light the next morning (being the 18th, ) we appeared off QueenCharlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort the Adventure, by thesignals she made to us; an event which every one felt with an agreeablesatisfaction. The fresh westerly wind now died away, and was succeeded bylight airs from the S. And S. W. , so that we had to work in with our boatsa-head towing. In the doing of this we discovered a rock, which we did notsee in my former voyage. It lies in the direction of S. By E. 1/2 E. , distant four miles from the outermost of the Two Brothers, and in a linewith the White Rocks, on with the middle of Long Island. It is just evenwith the surface of the sea, and hath deep water all round it. At noon, Lieutenant Kemp of the Adventure came on board; from whom I learnt thattheir ship had been here about six weeks. With the assistance of a lightbreeze, our boats, and the tides, we at six o'clock in the evening, got toan anchor in Ship Cove, near the Adventure, when Captain Furneaux came onboard, and gave me the following account of his proceedings, from the timewe parted to my arrival here. 

 [1] "This afternoon we had an opportunity of observing, in as complete a manner as could be wished, one of the most curious, and perhaps the most extraordinary and powerful, of Nature's productions. The forenoon had been in general pretty clear, but subject to heavy squalls of wind, and some flying clouds, which were very black and heavy, and moved with great velocity from the S. W. Towards the N. E. , (the direction of the wind. ) About four o'clock in the afternoon it became calm, and the heavens were almost covered with very black clouds, particularly towards the W. And N. W. , and presently after we saw several tail-like appearances, descending from the clouds in that quarter: These appearances were whiter than the clouds they hung from, which made them very conspicuous, and they increased gradually in length, until they extended, as near as I could judge, about one-sixth part of the distance between the clouds and the surface of the sea. About this time, the water under them began to be violently agitated, and lifted up with a whirling motion towards the impending part of the cloud, which, on account of a motion they all had the contrary way to that the wind had blown, was not directly over it, but a little towards the south-west. As the water rose, the end of the cloud descended, and in a little time they joined; after which the water appeared to me to ascend out of the sea into the cloud, with great velocity. I think that none of these spouts, as they are usually called, continued entire more than ten minutes; perhaps not quite so long. I saw four complete at one time; but there were great numbers which began to form, and were dispersed by what cause I know not, before the cloud and water joined. One of them came, I was told, within thirty or forty yards of the ship, which lay becalmed; but I was then below looking at the barometer; when I got upon deck, it was about 100 fathoms from her. It is impossible to say what would have been the consequences if it had gone over her; but I believe they would have been very dreadful. At the time when this happened, the barometer stood at 29, 75 inches, and the thermometer at 56°. The whole of this passed within the space of an hour, or thereabouts; for at five o'clock a small breeze of wind sprung up in the south-east quarter, and dispersed every appearance of this kind, although the black clouds remained until about ten, when the wind veered round to the W. S. W. , and settled there in a moderate steady gale, and the weather cleared up. "--W. 

 "The nature of water-spouts and their causes, being hitherto very little known, we were extremely attentive to mark every little circumstance attendant on this appearance. Their base, where the water of the sea was violently agitated, and rose in a spiral form in vapours, was a broad spot, which looked bright and yellowish when illuminated by the sun. The column was of a cylindrical form, rather increasing in width towards the upper extremity. These columns moved forward on the surface of the sea, and the clouds not following them with equal rapidity, they assumed a bent or incurvated shape, and frequently appeared crossing each other, evidently proceeding in different directions; from whence we concluded, that it being calm, each of these water-spouts caused a wind of its own. At last they broke one after another, being probably too much distended by the difference between their motion and that of the clouds. In proportion as the clouds came nearer to us, the sea appeared more and more covered with short broken waves, and the wind continually veered all round the compass without fixing in any point. We soon saw a spot on the sea, within two hundred fathoms of us, in a violent agitation. The water, in a space of fifty or sixty fathoms, moved towards the centre, and there rising into vapour, by the force of the whirling motion, ascended in a spiral form towards the clouds. Some hailstones fell on board about this time, and the clouds looked exceedingly black and louring above us. Directly over the whirl-pool, if I may so call the agitated spot on the sea, a cloud gradually tapered into a long slender tube, which seemed to descend to meet the rising spiral, and soon united with it into a short column of a cylindrical form. We could distinctly observe the water hurled upwards with the greatest violence in a spiral, and it appeared that it left a hollow space in the centre; so that we concluded the water only formed a hollow tube, instead of a solid column. We were strongly confirmed in this belief by the colour, which was exactly like any hollow glass-tube. After some time the last water-spout was incurvated and broke like the others, with this difference, that its disjunction was attended with a flash of lightning, but no explosion was heard. Our situation during all this time was very dangerous and alarming; a phenomenon which carried so much terrific majesty in it, and connected, as it were, the sea with the clouds, made our oldest mariners uneasy, and at a loss how to behave; for most of them, though they had viewed water-spouts at a distance, yet had never been so beset with them as we were; and all without exception had heard dreadful accounts of their pernicious effects, when they happened to break over a ship. We prepared, indeed, for the worst, by clewing up our top-sails; but it was the general opinion that our masts and yards must have gone to wreck if we had been drawn into the vortex. It was hinted that firing a gun had commonly succeeded in breaking water-spouts, by the strong vibration it causes in the air; and accordingly a four-pounder was ordered to be got ready, but our people, being, as usual, very dilatory about it, the danger was past before we could try the experiment. How far electricity may be considered as the cause of this phenomenon, we could not determine with any precision; so much however seems certain, that it has some connection with it, from the flash of lightning, which was plainly observed at the bursting of the last column. The whole time, from their first appearance to the dissolution of the last, was about three quarters of an hour. It was five o'clock when the latter happened, and the thermometer then stood at fifty-four degrees, or two and a half degrees lower, than when they began to make their appearance. The depth of water we had under us was thirty-six fathom. "--G. F. 

 The description which Mr F. Has given, is very similar to the preceding. Both these gentlemen seem to concur in opinion with Cook, in maintaining Dr Franklin's theory. Mr Jones, in his Philosophical Disquisitions, mentions a circumstance which is no less curious in itself, than strongly demonstrative that the tube, as it has been called, is formed from below, and ascends towards the clouds, and not the contrary, as the appearances would indicate. "In the torrid zone, (says he, ) the water-spout is sometimes attended with an effect which appears supernatural, and will scarcely find credit in this part of the world; for who will believe that fish should fall from the sky in a shower of rain? A gentleman of veracity, who spent many years in the East Indies, declares to his friends that he has been witness to this several times; but speaks of it with caution, knowing that it will be thought incredible by those who are not acquainted with the cause. I have a servant, a native of the West Indies, who assures me he was once a witness to this fact himself, when small fish, about two or three inches long, fell in great numbers during a storm of rain. The spot where this happened was in the island of Jamaica, within about a mile of the sea. When water is carried with violence from the sea up the column of a spout, small fish, which are too weak to escape when the column is forming, are conveyed up to the clouds, and fall from them afterwards on land, not far distant from the sea. " He had before related an instance of one that passed over the town of Hatfield, in Yorkshire, filling the air with the thatch it plucked off from the houses, and rolling strangely together several sheets of lead on the corner of the church. --E. 

SECTION VII. 

_Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships wereseparated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with someAccount of Van Diemen's Land. _

On the 7th of February, 1773, in the morning, the Resolution being thenabout two miles a-head, the wind shifting then to the westward, brought ona very thick fog; so that we lost sight of her. We soon after heard a gun, the report of which we imagined to be on the larboard beam; we then hauledup S. E. , and kept firing a four-pounder every half hour, but had no answer, nor further sight of her; then we kept the course we steered on before thefog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was at intervalsmore clear, but could see nothing of her, which gave us much uneasiness. Wethen tacked and stood to the westward, to cruise in the place where we lastsaw her, according to agreement, in case of separation; but next day cameon a very heavy gale of wind and thick weather, that obliged us to bringto, and thereby prevented us reaching the intended spot. However, the windcoming more moderate, and the fog in some measure clearing away, we cruisedas near the place as we could get, for three days; when giving over allhopes of joining company again, we bore away for winter quarters, distantfourteen hundred leagues, through a sea entirely unknown and reduced theallowance of water to one quart per day. 

We kept between the latitude of 52° and 53° S. , had much westerly wind, hard gales, with squalls, snow and sleet, with a long hollow sea from theS. W. , so that we judged there is no land in that quarter. After we reachedthe longitude of 95° E. , we found the variation decrease very fast. 

On the 26th, at night, we saw a meteor of uncommon brightness in the N. N. W. It directed its course to the S. W. , with a very great light in the southernsky, such as is known to the northward by the name of Aurora Borealis, orNorthern Lights. We saw the light for several nights running; and, what isremarkable, we saw but one ice island after we parted company with theResolution, till our making land, though we were most of the time two orthree degrees to the southward of the latitude we first saw it in. We weredaily attended by great numbers of sea birds, and frequently saw porpoisescuriously spotted white and black. 

On the 1st of March we were alarmed with the cry of land by the man at themast-head, on the larboard beam; which gave us great joy. We immediatelyhauled our wind and stood for it, but to our mortification weredisappointed in a few hours; for, what we took to be land, proved no morethan clouds, which disappeared as we sailed towards them. We then boreaway, and directed our course towards the land laid down in the charts bythe name of Van Diemen's Land, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and laid downin the latitude 44° S. , and longitude 140° E. , and supposed to join to NewHolland. 

On the 9th of March, having little wind and pleasant weather, about nine a. M. Being then in the latitude of 43° 37' S. Longitude, by lunarobservation, 145° 36' E. , and by account 143° 10' E. From Greenwich, we sawthe land bearing N. N. E. , about eight or nine leagues distance. It appearedmoderately high, and uneven near the sea; the hills farther back formed adouble land, and much higher. There seemed to be several islands, or brokenland, to the N. W. , as the shore trenched; but by reason of clouds that hungover them, we could not be certain whether they did not join to the main. We hauled immediately up for it, and by noon were within three or fourleagues of it. A point much like the Ramhead off Plymouth, which I take tobe the same that Tasman calls South Cape, bore north four leagues off us. The land from this cape runs directly to the eastward; about four leaguesalong shore are three islands about two miles long, and several rocks, resembling the Mewstone, (particularly one which we so named, ) about fouror five leagues E. S. E 1/2 E. Off the above cape, which Tasman has notmentioned, or laid down in his draughts. After you pass these islands, theland lies E. By N. , and W. By S. , by the compass nearly. It is a boldshore, and seems to afford several bays or anchoring-places, but believedeep water. From the S. W. Cape, which is in the latitude of 43° 39' S. , andlongitude 145° 50' E. To the S. E. Cape, in the latitude 43° 36' S. , longitude 147° E. , is nearly sixteen leagues, and sounding from forty-eightto seventy fathoms, sand and broken shells three or four leagues off shore. Here the country is hilly and full of trees, the shore rocky and difficultlanding, occasioned by the wind blowing here continually from the westward, which occasions such a surf that the sand cannot lie on the shore. We sawno inhabitants here. 

The morning, on the 10th of March, being calm, the ship then about fourmiles from the land, sent the great cutter on shore with the secondlieutenant, to find if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon after, itbeginning to blow very hard, made the signal for the boat to return severaltimes, but they did not see or hear any thing of it; the ship then three orfour leagues off, that we could not see any thing of the boat, which gaveus great uneasiness, as there was a very great sea. At half-past one p. M. To our great satisfaction, the boat returned on board safe. They landed, but with much difficulty, and saw several places where the Indians hadbeen, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with a greatnumber of pearl escallop shells round it, which shells they brought onboard, with, some burnt sticks and green boughs. There was a path from thisplace, through the woods, which in all probability leads to theirhabitations; but, by reason of the weather, had not time to pursue it. Thesoil seems to be very rich; the country well clothed with wood, particularly on the lee side of the hills; plenty of water which falls fromthe rocks in beautiful cascades, for two or three hundred feetperpendicular into the sea; but they did not see the least sign of anyplace to anchor in with safety. Hoisted in the boat, and made sail forFrederick Henry Bay. From noon to three p. M. Running along shore E. By N. , at which time we were abreast of the westernmost point of a very deep bay, called by Tasman, Stormy Bay. From the west to the east point of this baythere are several small islands, and black rocks, which we called theFriars. While crossing this bay we had very heavy squalls and thickweather; at times, when it cleared up, I saw several fires in the bottom ofthe bay, which is near two or three leagues deep, and has, I doubt not, good places for anchoring, but the weather being so bad, did not think itsafe to stand into it. From the Friars the land trenches away about N. ByE. Four leagues: We had smooth water, and kept in shore, having regularsoundings from twenty to fifteen fathoms water. At half-past six we hauledround a high bluff point, the rocks whereof were like so many flutedpillars, and had ten fathoms water, fine sand, within half a mile of theshore. At seven, being abreast of a fine bay, and having little wind, wecame-to, with the small bower, in twenty-four fathoms, sandy bottom. Justafter we anchored, being a fine clear evening, had a good observation ofthe star Antares and the moon, which gave the longitude of 147° 34' E. , being in the latitude of 43° 20' S. We first took this bay to be thatwhich Tasman called Frederick Henry Bay; but afterwards found that his islaid down five leagues to the northward of this. 

At day-break the next morning, I sent the master in shore to sound the bay, and to find out a watering-place; at eight he returned, having found a mostexcellent harbour, clear ground from side to side, from eighteen to fivefathom water all over the bay, gradually decreasing as you go in shore. Weweighed and turned up into the bay; the wind being westerly, and verylittle of it, which baffled us much in getting in. At seven o'clock in theevening, we anchored in seven fathoms water, with a small bower, and mooredwith the coasting anchor to the westward, the north point of the bay N. N. E. 1/2 E. (which we take to be Tasman's Head), and the easternmost point(which we named Penguin Island, from a curious one we caught there) N. E. ByE 3/4 E. ; the watering-place W. 1/2 N. ; about one mile from the shore oneach side; Maria's Island, which is about five or six leagues off, shut inwith both points; so that you are quite land-locked in a most spaciousharbour. 

We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering(which is easily got), and over-hauling the rigging. We found the countryvery pleasant; the soil a black, rich, though thin one; the sides of thehills covered with large trees, and very thick, growing to a great heightbefore they branch off. They are all of the evergreen kind, different fromany I ever saw; the wood is very brittle, and easily split; there is a verylittle variety of sorts, having seen but two. The leaves of one are longand narrow; and the seed (of which I got a few) is in the shape of abutton, and has a very agreeable smell. The leaves of the other are likethe bay, and it has a seed like the white thorn, with an agreeable spicytaste and smell. Out of the trees we cut down for fire-wood, there issuedsome gum, which the surgeon called gum-lac. The trees are mostly burnt orscorched, near the ground, occasioned by the natives setting fire to theunder-wood, in the most frequented places; and by these means they haverendered it easy walking. The land birds we saw, are a bird like a raven;some of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the tail andwings white, their bill long and very sharp; some paroquets; and severalkinds of small birds. The sea-fowl are ducks, teal, and the sheldrake. Iforgot to mention a large white bird, that one of the gentlemen shot, aboutthe size of a large kite of the eagle kind. As for beasts, we saw but one, which was an opossom; but we observed the dung of some, which we judged tobe of the deer kind. The fish in the bay are scarce; those we caught weremostly sharks, dog-fish, and a fish called by the seamen nurses, like thedog-fish, only full of small white spots; and some small fish not unlikesprats. The lagoons (which are brackish) abound with trout, and severalother sorts of fish, of which we caught a few with lines, but being muchencumbered with stumps of trees, we could not haul the seine. 

While we lay here, we saw several smokes and large fires, about eight orten miles in shore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives;though they frequently come into this bay, as there were several wigwams orhuts, where we found some bags and nets made of grass, in which I imaginethey carry their provisions and other necessaries. In one of them there wasthe stone they strike fire with, and tinder made of bark, but of what treecould not be distinguished. We found in one of their huts, one of theirspears, which was made sharp at one end, I suppose, with a shell or stone. Those things we brought away, leaving in the room of them medals, gun-flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with the iron hoops on it. They seem to be quite ignorant of every sort of metal. The boughs, of whichtheir huts are made, are either broken or split, and tied together withgrass in a circular form, the largest end stuck in the ground, and thesmaller parts meeting in a point at the top, and covered with fern andbark, so poorly done, that they will hardly keep out a shower of rain. Inthe middle is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pearl, scallop, and cray-fish shells, which I believe to be their chief food, though we could not find any of them. They lie on the ground, on driedgrass, round the fire; and I believe they have no settled place ofhabitation (as their houses seemed built only for a few days), but wanderabout in small parties from place to place in search of food, and areactuated by no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts ina place, capable of containing three or four persons each only; and what isremarkable, we never saw the least marks either of canoe or boat, and it isgenerally thought they have none; being altogether, from what we couldjudge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of acountry capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate thefinest in the world. We found not the least signs of any minerals ormetals. 

Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adventure Bay, intending to coast it up along shore, till we should fall in with the landseen by Captain Cook, and discover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with NewHolland. On the 16th, we passed Maria's Islands, so named by Tassman; theyappear to be the same as the main land. On the 17th, having passedShouten's Islands, we hauled in for the main land, and stood along shore atthe distance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to bevery thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along shore as wesailed. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low, and even; but no signsof a harbour or bay, where a ship might anchor with safety. The weatherbeing bad, and blowing hard at S. S. E. , we could not send a boat on shore tohave any intercourse with the inhabitants. In the latitude of 40° 50' S. , the land trenches away to the westward, which I believe forms a deep bay, as we saw from the deck several smokes arising a-back of the islands thatlay before it, when we could not see the least signs of land from the masthead. 

From the latitude of 40° 50' S. , to the latitude of 39° 50' S. , is nothingbut islands and shoals; the land high, rocky, and barren. On the 19th, inthe latitude of 40° 30' S. , observing breakers about half a mile withinshore of us, we sounded, and finding but eight fathoms, immediately hauledoff, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore away and kept alongshore again. From the latitude of 39° 50' to 39° S. , we saw no land, buthad regular soundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we stood on to thenorthward, we made land again in about 39°; after which we discontinued ournortherly course, as we found the ground very uneven, and shoal-water somedistance off. I think it a very dangerous shore to fall in with. 

The coast, from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for NewZealand, lies in the direction S. 1/2 W. , and N. 1/2 E. , about seventy-fiveleagues; and it is my opinion that there are no straits between New Hollandand Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay. --I should have stood farther tothe northward, but the wind blowing strong at S. S. E. , and looking likely tohaul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, Itherefore thought it more proper to leave the coast and steer for NewZealand. 

After we left Van Diemen's Land, we had very uncertain weather, with rainand very heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th, we were surprised with a verysevere squall, that reduced us from top-gallant sails to reefed courses, inthe space of an hour. The sea rising equally quick, we shipped many waves, one of which stove the large cutter, and drove the small one from herlashing in the waist; and with much difficulty we saved her from beingwashed overboard. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had moremoderate weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoisted out theboats to try the currents, and in general found a small drift to the W. S. W. We shot many birds; and had, upon the whole, good weather; but as we gotnear to the land, it came on thick and dirty for several days, till we madethe coast of New Zealand in 40° 30' S. , having made twenty-four degrees oflongitude, from Adventure Bay, after a passage of fifteen days. 

We had the winds much southerly in this passage, and I was under someapprehensions of not being able to fetch the straits, which would haveobliged us to steer away for George's Island; I would therefore advise anywho sail to this part, to keep to the southward, particularly in the fallof the year, when the S. And S. E. Winds prevail. 

The land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confusedjumble of hills and mountains. We steered along shore to the northward, butwere much retarded in our course by reason of the swell from the N. E. Atnoon, on the 3rd of April, Cape Farewell, which is the south point of theentrance of the west side of the straits, bore E. By N. 1/2 N. By thecompass, three or four leagues distant. About eight o'clock we entered thestraits, and steered N. E. Till midnight; then brought-to till day-light, and had soundings from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, sand and brokenshells. At day-light, made sail and steered S. E. By E. ; had light airs;Mount Egmont N. N. E. Eleven or twelve leagues, and Point Stephens S. E. 1/2E. Seven leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. By E. Twelve leagues; StephensIsland S. E. Five leagues. In the afternoon we put the dredge over-board insixty-five fathoms; but caught nothing except a few small scallops, two orthree oysters, and broken shells. 

Standing to the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze atN. W. , in the morning on the 5th, Stephens Island bearing S. W. By W. Fourleagues, we were taken a-back with a strong easterly gale, which obliged usto haul our wind to the S. E. And work to windward up under Port Jackson. The course from Stephens Island to Point Jackson, is nearly S. E. By thecompass, eleven leagues distant, depth of water from forty to thirty-twofathoms, sandy ground. As we stood off and on, we fired several guns, butsaw no signs of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half-past two, o'clock, finding the tide set the ship to the westward, we anchored withthe coasting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground; PointJackson S. E. 1/2 E. Three leagues; the east point of an inlet (about fourleagues to the westward of Point Jackson, and which appears to be a goodharbour) S. W. By W. 1/2 W. At eight p. M. The tide slackening, we weighedand made sail (having while at anchor caught several fish with hook andline), and found the tide to run to the westward, at the rate of two and ahalf knots per hour. Standing to the east, we found no ground at seventyfathoms, off Point Jackson N. N. W. , two leagues. At eight the next morning, had the sound open; but the wind being down, it obliged us to work up underthe western shore, as the tide sets up strong there, when it runs down inmid channel. At ten, the tide being done, was obliged to come-to with thebest bower in thirty-eight fathoms, close to some white rocks, PointJackson bearing N. W. 1/2 N. ; the northernmost of the Brothers E. By S. ; andthe middle of Entry Island (which lies on the north side of the straits)N. E. We made 15° 30' E. , variation in the straits. As we sailed up thesound we saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remainsall the year. When the tide slackened, we weighed and sailed up the sound;and about five o'clock on the 7th, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathomswater, muddy ground, and moored the best bower to the N. N. E. , and small toS. S. W. In the night, we heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing onthe east shore. 

The two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Islandfor erecting our tents for the sick (having then several on board muchafflicted with the scurvy), the sail-makers and coopers. On the top of theisland was a post erected, by the Endeavour's people, with her name andtime of departure on it. 

On the 9th, we were visited by three canoes with about sixteen of thenatives; and to induce them to bring us fish and other provisions, we gavethem several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of ouryoung gentlemen seeing something wrapt up in a better manner than common, had the curiosity to examine what it was; and to his great surprise foundit to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive ofits being forced from them; and particularly the man who seemed mostinterested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bones, for fear of beingpunished by us, as Captain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of thisunnatural act. They used every method to conceal the head, by shifting itfrom one to another; and by signs endeavouring to convince us, that therewas no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a few minutesbefore. They then took their leave of us, and went on shore. 

They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native ofGeorge's Island (or Otaheite), brought here by the Endeavour, and who diedat Batavia; and when we told them he was dead, some of them seemed to bevery much concerned, and, as well as we could understand them, wanted toknow whether we killed him, or if he died a natural death. By thesequestions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon, theyreturned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails andother trifles; though the nails are what they set the most value on. Theman and woman who had the head, did not come off again. Having a catalogueof words in their language, we called several things by name, whichsurprised them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered a great quantityof fish for it. 

Next morning, they returned again, to the number of fifty or sixty, withtheir chief at their head (as we supposed), in five double canoes. Theygave us their implements of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, &c. For nailsand old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head mencame on board us, and it was with some difficulty we got them out of theship by fair means; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet, they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily visited by moreor less, who brought us fish in great plenty for nails, beads, and othertrifles, and behaved very peaceably. 

We settled the astronomer with his instruments, and a sufficient guard, ona small island, that is joined to Motuara at low water, called the Hippa, where there was an old fortified town that the natives had forsaken. Theirhouses served our people to live in; and, by sinking them about a footinside, we made them very comfortable. Having done this, we struck ourtents on the Motuara, and having removed the ship farther into the cove onthe west shore, moored her for the winter. We then erected our tents nearthe river or watering-place, and sent ashore all the spars and lumber offthe decks, that they might be caulked; and gave her a winter coat topreserve the hull and rigging. On the 11th of May, we felt two severeshocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. On the 17th, wewere surprised by the people firing guns on the Hippa, and having sent theboat, as soon as she opened the sound, had the pleasure of seeing theResolution off the mouth of it. We immediately sent out the boats to towher in, it being calm. In the evening she anchored about a mile without us;and next morning weighed and warped within us. Both ships felt uncommon joyat our meeting, after an absence of fourteen weeks. [1]

 [1] It is, perhaps, unnecessary to state, that the opinion expressed in this section, as to there being no straits between New Holland and Diemen's Land, is erroneous. The reader must have previously known this. --E. 

SECTION VIII. 

_Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks on theInhabitants. _

Knowing that scurvy-grass, celery, and other vegetables, were to be foundin this sound, I went myself the morning after my arrival, at day-break, tolook for some, and returned on board at breakfast with a boat-load. Beingnow satisfied, that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, Igave orders that they should be boiled, with wheat and portable broth, every morning for breakfast; and with peas and broth for dinner; knowingfrom experience, that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremelybeneficial, in removing all manner of scorbutic complaints. 

I have already mentioned a desire I had of visiting Van Diemen's Land, inorder to inform myself if it made a part of New Holland; and I certainlyshould have done this, had the winds proved favourable. But as CaptainFurneaux had now, in a great measure, cleared up that point, I could haveno business there; and therefore came to a resolution to continue ourresearches to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46°. I acquaintedCaptain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness toput to sea as soon as possible. 

In the morning of the 20th, I sent ashore, to the watering-place near theAdventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining, of those which I broughtfrom the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to leave them in this country. Soon after I visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to bemade and planted with various articles; all of which were in a flourishingstate, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility tothem. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island, which I planted with garden seeds, roots, &c. 

On the 22d in the morning, the ewe and ram, I had with so much care andtrouble brought to this place, were both found dead, occasioned, as wassupposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus my hopes of stocking thiscountry with a breed of sheep, were blasted in a moment. About noon, wewere visited, for the first time since I arrived, by some of the natives, who dined with us; and it was not a little they devoured. In the eveningthey were dismissed with presents. [1]

Early in the morning of the 24th, I sent Mr Gilbert the master to soundabout the rock we had discovered in the entrance of the sound. Myself, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, went in a boat to the westbay on a shooting party. In our way, we met a large canoe in which werefourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked was forTupia, the person I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage; and theyseemed to express some concern when we told them he was dead. These peoplemade the same enquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived; and, on myreturn to the ship in the evening, I was told that a canoe had been along-side, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also enquired forTupia. [2] Late in the evening Mr Gilbert returned, having sounded all roundthe rock, which he found to be very small and steep. 

Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several of thenatives made us a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, whichthey exchanged for nails, &c. One of these people I took over to Motuara, and shewed him some potatoes planted there by Mr Fannen, master of theAdventure. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding; and the man wasso well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe theearth up about the plants. We next took him to the other gardens, andshewed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips; roots which, together withthe potatoes, will be of more real use to them than all the other articleswe had planted. It was easy to give them an idea of these roots, bycomparing them with such as they knew. 

Two or three families of these people now took up their abode near us, employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying us with the fruits oftheir labour; the good effects of which we soon felt. For we were, by nomeans, such expert fishers as they are; nor were any of our methods offishing equal to theirs. 

On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, I sent onshore on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. The formerwas something more than a year old; but the latter was much older. She hadtwo fine kids, some time before we arrived in Dusky Bay, which were killedby cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux also put onshore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows; so that we havereason to hope this country will in time be stocked with these animals, ifthey are not destroyed by the natives before they become wild; for, afterwards, they will be in no danger. But as the natives knew nothing oftheir being left behind, it may be some time before they are discovered. 

In our excursion to the east, we met with the largest seal I had ever seen. It was swimming on the surface of the water, and suffered us to come nearenough to fire at it; but without effect; for, after a chase of near anhour, we were obliged to leave it. By the size of this animal, it probablywas a sea-lioness. It certainly bore much resemblance to the drawing inLord Anson's voyage; our seeing a sea-lion when we entered this sound, inmy former voyage, increaseth the probability; and I am of opinion, theyhave their abode on some of the rocks, which lie in the strait, or offAdmiralty Bay. 

On the 3d, I sent a boat with the carpenter over to the east side of thesound, to cut down some spars which we were in want of. As she wasreturning, she was chased by a large double canoe full of people; but withwhat intent is not known. Early the next morning, some of our friendsbrought us a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go away with us;but afterwards, that is, when it came to the point, he changed his mind; asdid some others who had promised to go with the Adventure. 

It was even said that some of them offered their children to sale. Ihowever found that this was a mistake. The report first took its rise onboard the Adventure, where they were utter strangers to their language andcustoms. It was very common for these people to bring their children withthem, and present them to us, in expectation that we would make thempresents; this happened to me the preceding morning. A man brought his son, a boy about nine or ten years of age, and presented him to me. As thereport of selling their children was then current, I thought, at first, that he wanted me to buy the boy. But at last I found that he wanted me togive him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was so fond of hisnew dress, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before everyone that came in his way. This freedom used by him offended Old Will, theram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward onthe deck. Will would have repeated his blow, had not some of the peoplecome to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to himirreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in thecabin before his father, until brought in by Mr Forster; when he told avery lamentable story against goury the great dog (for so they call all thequadrupeds we had aboard), nor could he be reconciled, till his shirt waswashed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling in itself, willshew how liable we are to mistake these people's meaning, and to ascribe tothem customs they never knew even in thought. 

About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirtypeople, appeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed much alarmed, telling us that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with aspear, and the other with a stone-hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm-chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemiesdefiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and wentashore, probably to secure the women and children. 

All I could do, I could not prevail on the two that remained to call thesestrangers along-side; on the contrary, they were displeased at my doing it, and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to pay verylittle regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly towards theship, and after performing the usual ceremonies, put along-side. After thisthe chief was easily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by manyothers, and peace was immediately established on all sides. Indeed, it didnot appear to me that these people had any intention to make war upon theirbrethren. At least, if they had, they were sensible enough to know, thatthis was neither the time nor place for them to commit hostilities. 

One of the first questions these strangers asked, was for Tupia; and when Itold them he was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind oflamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade sooncommenced between our people and them. It was not possible to hinder theformer from selling the clothes from off their backs for the meresttrifles, things that were neither useful nor curious. This caused me todismiss the strangers sooner than I would have done. When they departed, they went to Motuara, where, by the help of our glasses, we discovered fouror five canoes, and several people on the shore. This induced me to go overin my boat, accompanied by Mr Forster and one of the officers. We were wellreceived by the chief and the whole tribe, which consisted of betweenninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and children, having with themsix canoes, and all their utensils; which made it probable that they werecome to reside in this sound. But this is only conjecture; for it is verycommon for them, when they go but a little way, to carry their wholeproperty with them; every place being alike, if it affords them thenecessary subsistence; so that it can hardly be said they are ever fromhome. Thus we may easily account for the emigration of those few familieswe found in Dusky Bay. 

Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief ofthe family or tribe, whose authority may be very little, they feel manyinconveniences, to which well-regulated societies, united under one head orany other form of government, are not subject. These form laws andregulations for their general good; they are not alarmed at the appearanceof every stranger; and, if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, havestrong-holds to retire to, where they can with advantage defend themselves, their property, and their country. This seems to be the state of most ofthe inhabitants of Eahei-nomauwe; whereas those of Tavai-poenammoo, byliving a wandering life in small parties, are destitute of most of theseadvantages, which subjects them to perpetual alarms. We generally foundthem upon their guard, travelling and working, as it were with their armsin their hands. Even the women are not exempted from bearing arms, asappeared by the first interview I had with the family in Dusky Bay; whereeach of the two women was armed with a spear, not less than 18 feet inlength. 

I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the faceof any one person I had seen here three years ago: Nor did it once appear, that any one of them had the least knowledge of me, or of any person withme that was here at that time. It is therefore highly probable that thegreatest part of the people which inhabited this sound in the beginning ofthe year 1770, have been since driven out of it, or have, of their ownaccord, removed somewhere else. Certain it is, that not one third of theinhabitants were here now, that were then. Their stronghold on the point ofMotuara hath been long deserted; and we found many forsaken habitations inall parts of the sound. We are not, however, wholly to infer from this, that this place hath been once very populous; for each family may, fortheir own convenience, when they move from place to place, have more hutsthan one or two. 

It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any ofher crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or havein their possession (which many of them had) such articles, as they couldonly have got from that ship? To this it may be answered, that the name ofTupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it wouldbe no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great part of New Zealand, and as familiar to those who never saw him, as to those who did. Had ships, of any other nation whatever, arrived here, they would have equallyenquired of them for Tupia. By the same way of reasoning, many of thearticles left here by the Endeavour, may be now in possession of those whonever saw her. I got from one of the people, now present, an ear ornament, made of glass very well formed and polished. The glass they must have gotfrom the Endeavour. 

After passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and havingdistributed among them some presents, and shewed to the chief the gardenswe had made, I returned on board, and spent the remainder of our royalmaster's birth-day in festivity; having the company of Captain Furneaux andall his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to share in thegeneral joy. 

Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account inwriting of the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46° S. , until I arrived in the longitudeof 140° or 135° W. , then, provided no land was discovered; to proceed toOtaheite; from thence back to this place, by the shortest route; and aftertaking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and explore all theunknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn. Therefore, in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, I appointedthat island for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20thof August: If not joined by me before that time, he was then to make thebest of his way back to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he was to wait untilthe 20th of November: After which (if not joined by me, ) he was to put tosea, and carry into execution their lordships' instructions. 

Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries asfar south at 46° degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. Butthough it most be owned, that winter is by no means favourable fordiscoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary that something shouldbe done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon; lest I should not beable to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South PacificOcean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in myroute to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the summer, to exploreit. Setting aside all these considerations, I had little to fear; havingtwo good ships well provided; and healthy crews. Where then could I spendmy time better? If I did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of beingable to point out to posterity, that these seas may be navigated, and thatit is practicable to go on discoveries; even in the very depth of winter. 

During our stay in the sound, I had observed that this second visit made tothis country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. I hadalways looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chaste than thegenerality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might havegranted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a privatemanner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much in it. Butnow, I was told, they were the chief promoters of a shameful traffic, andthat for a spike-nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige thewomen to prostitute themselves, whether they would or no; and even withoutany regard to that privacy which decency required. [3]

During our stay here, Mr Wales lost no opportunity to observe equalaltitudes of the sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result ofhis labours proved, that Mr Kendal's was gaining 9", 5 per day, and MrArnold's losing 94", 15s per day, on mean time. [4]

 [1] Mr G. F. Represents these people as very like those which had been seen at Dusky Bay, only much more familiar. At dinner, it is said, they would not drink either wine or brandy, but took large quantities of water sweetened with sugar, of which they were very fond. They shewed extreme covetousness, but were readily induced to lay down what they had seized on. They seemed to have acquaintance with the value of iron, and highly prized any thing made of it. --E. 

 [2] "When they were told that he was dead, they seemed much concerned, and pronounced some words in a plaintive voice. So much had this man's superior knowledge, and his ability to converse in their language, rendered him valuable and beloved, even among a nation in a state of barbarism. Perhaps with the capacity which Providence had allotted to him, and which had been cultivated no farther than the simplicity of his education would permit, he was more adapted to raise the New Zealanders to a state of civilization similar to that of his own islands than ourselves, to whom the want of the intermediate links, which connect their narrow views to our extended sphere of knowledge, must prove an obstacle in such an undertaking. "--G. F. 

 This is a liberal observation in respect of Tupia, but it is liable to much objection as a general maxim. Besides the greater number of impracticable prejudices which attach themselves to imperfectly cultivated minds when placed in new situations, and which often render well-meant exertions unavailing, it is certain, that superior knowledge both affords greater aptitude of accommodation to unusual circumstances by the speedy discovery it enables the person to make of the principles on which they depend, and, at the same time, facilitates the management and direction of them when known, by the accustomed exercise of the faculties which it implies. Mr F. Seems to have imposed on himself by the gratuitous use of figurative language. Where there is a want of intermediate links, there is certainly no connection; but admitting that all mankind is made up of the same materials, it may be very safely inferred, that the most civilized and best educated European carries about with him the whole chain, betwixt the "narrow views" of the New Zealanders and his own "extended sphere of knowledge. " The physical wants of our species are the same in all regions of the globe, and so are our passions. These are grand levellers of the proud distinctions, by which some of us exalt ourselves so much above others; and they have never yet been set aside or eradicated by any process which human ingenuity has contrived. Often, indeed, savages excel in the knowledge and dexterous attainment of the means necessary to supply and gratify them. Our judicious Shakespeare seems to have been aware of this, when he causes the brutish Caliban to address Triaculo thus, --

 "I'll shew thee the best springs; I'll pluck thee berries; I'll fish for thee, and get thee wood enough, " &c. 

 Mr F. Himself, as we shall soon see, has specified one link large and strong enough to answer for a chain in holding together British sailors at least, and New Zealanders, or, indeed, any other savages, however degenerate and abominable, to the end of the chapter!--E. 

 [3] "Our crews, who had not conversed with women since our departure from the Cape, found these ladies very agreeable, and from the manner in which their advances were received, it appeared very plainly that chastity was not rigorously observed here, and that the sex were far from being impregnable. However, their favours did not depend upon their own inclination, but the men, as absolute masters, were always to be consulted upon the occasion; if a spike-nail, or a shirt, or a similar present, had been given for their connivance, the lady was at liberty to make her lover happy, and to exact, if possible, the tribute of another present for herself. Some among them, however, submitted with reluctance to this vile prostitution: and but for the authority and menaces of the men, would not have complied with the desires of a set of people, who could, with unconcern, behold their tears and hear their complaints. Whether the members of a civilized society, who could act such a brutal part, or the barbarians who could force their own women to submit to such indignity, deserve the greatest abhorrence, is a question not easily to be decided. Encouraged by the lucrative nature of this infamous commerce, the New Zealanders went through the whole vessel, offering their daughters and sisters promiscuously to every person's embraces, in exchange for our iron tools, which they knew could not be purchased at an easier rate. It does not appear, that their married women were ever suffered to have this kind of intercourse with our people. Their ideas of female chastity are, in this respect, so different from ours, that a girl may favour a number of lovers without any detriment to her character; but if she marries, conjugal fidelity is exacted from her with the greatest rigour. It may therefore be alleged, that as the New Zealanders place no value on the continence of their unmarried women, the arrival of Europeans among them does not injure their moral characters in this respect; but we doubt whether they ever debased themselves so much as to make a trade of their women, before we created new wants by shewing these iron tools, for the possession of which they do not hesitate to commit an action, that, in our eyes, deprives them of the very shadow of sensibility. It is unhappy enough, that the unavoidable consequence of all our voyages of discovery has always been the loss of a number of innocent lives; but this heavy injury done to the little uncivilized communities which Europeans have visited, is trifling when compared to the irretrievable harm entailed upon them by corrupting their morals. If these evils were compensated in some measure by the introduction of some real benefit in these countries, or by the abolition of some other immoral custom among their inhabitants, we might at least comfort ourselves, that what they lost on one hand, they gained on the other; but I fear that hitherto our intercourse has been wholly disadvantageous to the natives of the South Seas; and that those communities have been the least injured, who have always kept aloof from us, and whose jealous disposition did not suffer our sailors to become too familiar among them, as if they had perceived in their countenances that levity of disposition, and that spirit of debauchery, with which they are generally reproached. "

 A little afterwards, relating a trip over to Long Island, it is said, "In the afternoon, many of our sailors were allowed to go on shore, among the natives, where they traded for curiosities, and purchased the embraces of the ladies, notwithstanding the disgust which their uncleanliness inspired. Their custom of painting their cheeks with ochre and oil, was alone sufficient to deter the more sensible from such intimate connections with them; and if we add to this a certain stench which announced them even at a distance, and the abundance of vermin which not only infested their hair, but also crawled on their clothes, and which they occasionally cracked between their teeth, it is astonishing that persons should be found, who could gratify an animal appetite with such loathsome objects, whom a civilized education and national customs should have taught them to hold in abhorrence. "--G. F. 

 May this sad picture have the same effect, which the fathers of Sparta expected from the exhibition of their drunken slaves!--E. 

 [4] A few miscellaneous observations respecting New Zealand, collected from Mr G. F. 's work, may be given here with interest to some readers:--The arrival at New Zealand, was most delightful to men who had so long suffered the inclemencies and hardships of a navigation in the southern sea. Every object seen on the land afforded some agreeable sensation, heightened in no ordinary degree by the contrast which memory presented. No wonder then, that the description given of the scenery should be somewhat enthusiastic; besides, for every obvious reason, one might be inclined to expect, that Mr G. Forster should exceed even Cook in the warmth of colouring. It is so. He speaks in evidently poetical feeling of the delightfully fair weather, the lightly wafting airs, the numerous evergreens mingling with the various shades of autumnal yellow, the wild notes of the feathered tribe, &c. This was on getting sight of Dusky Bay. The effects of such charming panorama were visible on all the crew; "emotions of joy and satisfaction, " he tells us, "were strongly marked in the countenance of every individual. " He is quite aware of the magic at work in his own mind, when contemplating the picture, and accordingly very candidly and very justly says, "So apt is mankind, after a long absence from land, to be prejudiced in favour of the wildest shore, that we looked upon the country at that time, as one of the most beautiful which nature, unassisted by art, could produce. Such are the general ideas of travellers and voyagers long exhausted by distresses; and with _such_ warmth of imagination they have viewed the rude cliffs of Juan Fernandez, and the impenetrable forests of Tinian!" So much, by the bye, as a hint for understanding the works of some other painters! But all was not mere semblance of good. Several substantial advantages were enjoyed, abundance of excellent fish and water-fowl, plenty of wood and water, &c. To a naturalist besides, there was much to occupy attention and excite curiosity, as a store of animal and vegetable bodies was perceived, bearing little or no resemblance to known species. But the dream of pleasure, and the hopes of much additional science, were not of very long duration. The necessary occupations of the different artificers, soon involved the people in very embarrassing intricacies and much bodily labour, occasioned by the prodigious variety and numbers of climbers, briars, shrubs, and ferns, interwoven through the forests, and almost totally precluding access to the interior of the country. From the appearance of these impediments, and the quantity of rotten trees which had been either felled by the winds, or brought low from age, it is conjectured, and plausibly enough, that the forests in the southern parts of New Zealand had escaped the hand of human industry since the origin of their existence. But nature, we may often see, is prodigal of life, and in the very act of dissolving one generation, seems to rejoice in providing for another that is to succeed it. Thus, we are told, there sprouted out young trees from the rich mould, to which the old ones were at last reduced. A deceitful bark, it is added, sometimes still covered the interior rotten substance, in which a person attempting to step on it, might sink to the waist. Such were the common disappointments in this Utopia. The naturalists had to add to them, the appropriate mortification of seeing numerous trees and shrubs, of which, as the time of flowering was past, it was impossible to make any scientific examination, and which, accordingly, only tantalized them with the idea of the profusion of new vegetables in this interesting country. A short residence here, especially during wet gloomy weather, proved that all was not so perfect in this climate as had been fondly imagined. The land about Dusky Bay, and indeed throughout most of the southern extremity of this island, was found to consist of steep rocky mountains, with craggy precipices, either clad with impenetrable forests, or quite barren, and covered with snow on the tops. No meadows or lawns were to be seen, and the only spot of flat land that was found, presented so much wood and briars as to be useless for either garden ground or pasture, without very considerable toil. This heartless description is somewhat relieved by a glowing picture of the scenery about what was called Cascade Cove, which seems to have arrested the attention of Mr F. , and which, he says, could only have justice done it by the very successful pencil of Mr Hodges. The soil here was found to be quite like to what had elsewhere been found, and the rocks and stones consisted of granite, moor-stone, and brown talcous clay-stone. In one of the excursions to the country, it was observed, that as they receded from the sea, the mountains became much higher, and were more steep and barren, and that the trees dwindled in size, so as to resemble shrubs, circumstances rather the reverse of what is usually noticed in other countries. The climate of Dusky Bay is spoken unfavourably of, as its greatest inconvenience, and to this must be added its being deficient in celery, scurvy-grass, and other antiscorbutics. But with all its defects, Mr G. F. Admits, that Dusky Bay is one of the finest places in New Zealand, for a crew to touch at in such a situation as that of his companions. The land about Cape Traveller appeared low and sandy near the shore, but rising into high snow-capt mountains interiorly. In one respect, according to this gentleman, Queen Charlotte's Sound has greatly the advantage of Dusky Bay, viz. Its abounding in salutary vegetables. This it no doubt owes to the superior mildness of the climate, which is represented as highly favourable to botanical pursuits. The tea-tree and spruce, as they were called, were found here in great plenty, as well as at Dusky Bay; besides several species of plants in flower, which had not been seen before. The hills consisted chiefly of argillaceous stone, running in oblique strata, commonly dipping a little towards the south, of a greenish-grey, or bluish, or yellowish-brown colour, sometimes containing veins of white quartz, and sometimes a green talcous or nephritic stone, which, as it was capable of a good polish from its hardness, the natives used for chissels, &c. Mr F. Specifies several other mineral substances found in this neighbourhood, particularly argillaceous strata of a rusty colour, which is inferred to contain iron, and a black compact and ponderous basalt, of which the natives form their pattoo-pattoos. It is unnecessary to make remarks on the subjects now mentioned, as they must be resumed in our account of Cook's third voyage, where we shall have to consider Mr Anderson's report respecting them and other topics, with greater attention, than was required for the present imperfect though valuable notices. --E. 

SECTION IX. 

_Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some low Islands, supposed to be the same that were seen by M. De Bougainville. _

On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable, we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure incompany. We had no sooner got out of the sound, than we found the wind atsouth, so that we had to ply through the straits. About noon the tide ofebb setting out in our favour, made our boards advantageous; so that, atfive o'clock in the evening. Cape Palliser, on the island of Eahei-nomauwe, bore S. S E. 1/2 S. , and Cape Koamaroo, or the S. E. Point of the sound, N byW. 3/4 W. ; presently after it fell calm, and the tide of flood now makingagainst us, carried us at a great rate back to the north. A little beforehigh-water, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the north, which soonincreased to a brisk gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us by eighto'clock the next morning quite through the strait. Cape Palliser at thistime bore E. N. E. , and at noon N. By W. Distant seven leagues. [1]

This day at noon, when we attended the winding-up of the watches, the fuseeof Mr Arnold's would not turn round, so that after several unsuccessfultrials we were obliged to let it go down. 

After getting clear of the straits, I directed my course S. E. By E. , havinga gentle gale, but variable between the north and west. The late S. E. Windshaving caused a swell from the same quarter, which did not go down for somedays, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. Wehowever continued to steer to the S. E. , and on the 11th crossed themeridian of 180°, and got into the west longitude, according to my way ofreckoning. 

On the 16th, at seven in the morning, the wind having veered round to S. E. , we tacked and stretched to N. E. , being at this time in the latitude of 47°7', longitude 173° W. In this situation we had a great swell from N. E. [2]

The wind continued at S. E. And S. S. E. , blew fresh at intervals, and wasattended with sometimes fair, and at other times rainy weather, till the20th, on which day, being in the latitude of 44° 30', longitude 165° 45'W. , the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was attended withfair weather. With this we steered E. By N. , E. By S. , and E. , till the 23dat noon, when, being in the latitude of 44° 38' S. , longitude 161° 27' W. , we had a few hours calm. The calm was succeeded by a wind at east, withwhich we stood to the north. The wind increased and blew in squalls, attended with rain, which at last brought us under our courses; and at twoo'clock in the afternoon of the next day, we were obliged to lie-to underthe foresail, having a very hard gale from E. N. E. , and a great sea from thesame direction. [3]

At seven o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate, we made sail under the courses, and in the afternoon set the top-sailsclose-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the north, wetacked and stretched to the S. E. , being at this time in the latitude of 42°53' S. , longitude 163° 20' W. 

We continued to stretch to the S. E. , with a fresh gale and fair weather, till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when we stood again tothe N. E. , till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hourscalm, which was succeeded by faint breezes from the west. At this time wewere in the latitude of 42° 32', longitude 161° 15' W. The wind remainednot long at west, before it veered back to the E. By the N. , and keptbetween the S. E. And N. E. , but never blew strong. 

On July 2d, being in the latitude of 53° 3', longitude 156° 17' W. , we hadagain a calm, which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of nolonger continuance than before. For the next day it returned to the E. AndS. E. , blew fresh at times, and by squalls, with rain. 

On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41° 22', longitude 156° 12' W. , we hadtwo hours calm; in which time Mr Wales went on board the Adventure tocompare the watches, and they were found to agree, allowing for thedifference of their rates of going: A probable, if not a certain proof, that they had gone well since we had been in this sea. 

The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south; between which point andthe N. W. , it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong. It was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from the S. W. And W. , asure indication that no large land was near in those directions. We nowsteered east, inclining to the south, and on the 10th, in the latitude of43° 39', longitude 144° 43' W. , the variation was found, by severalazimuths, to be more than 3° E. , but the next morning it was found to be 4°5' 30", and in the afternoon, 5° 56' E. The same day, at noon, we were inthe latitude of 43° 44', longitude 141° 56' W. 

At nine o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude was observed asfollows, viz. 

 Self 1st set 139° 47' 15" Ditto, 2d set 140 7 30 Mr Wales 1st set 141 22 15 Mr Wales 2d set 140 10 0 Mr Clerke 140 56 45 Mr Gilbert 140 2 0 -------------- Mean 140 24 17-1/2 West. 

This differed from my reckoning only 2° 1/2. The next morning, in thelatitude of 43° 3', longitude 139° 20' W. , we had several lunarobservations, which were consonant to those made the day before, allowingfor the ship's run in the time. In the afternoon we had, for a few hours, variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind from theN. E. , blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy weather, andsome rain. 

We stretched to the S. E. Till five o'clock in the afternoon on the 14th, atwhich time, being in the latitude of 43° 15', longitude 137° 39' W. , wetacked and stood to the north under our courses, having a very hard galewith heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near noon the next day, whenit ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 42° 39', longitude 137° 58' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breezefrom S. W. , which soon after increased to a fresh gale; and fixing at S. S. W, with it we steered N. E. 1/2 E. In the latitude of 41° 25', longitude 135°58' W. , we saw floating in the sea a billet of wood, which seemed to becovered with barnacles; so that there was no judging how long it might havebeen there, or from whence or how far it had come. 

We continued to steer N. E. 1/2 E. , before a very strong gale which blew insqualls, attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea fromthe same quarter, till noon, on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 39°44', longitude 133° 32' W. , which was a degree and a half farther east thanI intended to run; nearly in the middle between my track to the north in1769, and the return to the south in the same year, and seeing no signs ofland, I steered north-easterly, with a view of exploring that part of thesea lying between the two tracks just mentioned, down as low as thelatitude of 27°, a space that had not been visited by any precedingnavigator that I knew of. [4]

On the 19th, being in the latitude of 36° 34', longitude 133° 7' W. , westeered N. 1/2 W. , having still the advantage of a hard gale at south, which the next day veered to S. E. And E. , blew hard and by squalls, attended with rain and thick hazy weather. This continued till the eveningof the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the windbacked to the S. And S. E. 

We were now in the latitude of 32° 30', longitude 133° 40' W. , from thissituation we steered N. N. W. Till noon the next day, when we steered a pointmore to the west; being at this time in the latitude of 31° 6', longitude134° 12' W. The weather was now so warm, that it was necessary to put onlighter clothes; the mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 63. It hadnever been lower than 46, and seldom higher than 54, at the same time ofthe day, since we left New Zealand. [5]

This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird. Not one had passedsince we left the land, without seeing some of the following birds, viz. Albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and Port Egmont hens. But these frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in the higherlatitudes: Not a bird, nor any other thing, was seen that could induce usto think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any land. 

The wind kept veering round from the S. By the W. To N. N. W. , with which westretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29°22', we tacked and stretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to avery hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such heavy squalls as tosplit the most of our sails. This weather continued till the morning of the25th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to N. W. And W. N. W. , with which we steered and stretched to N. E. , being at that time in thelatitude of 29° 51', longitude 130° 28' W. In the afternoon the sky clearedup, and the weather became fair and settled. We now met the first tropicbird we had seen in this sea. 

On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44', we hadseveral observations of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135° 30'W. My reckoning at the same time was 135° 27', and I had no occasion tocorrect it since I left the land. We continued to stretch to the north, with light breezes from the westward, till noon, the next day, when we werestopped by a calm; our latitude at this time being 27° 53', longitude 135°17' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the N. AndN. W. , with which we plied to the N. 

On the 29th I sent on board the Adventure to enquire into the state of hercrew, having heard that they were sickly; and this I now found was but tootrue. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down in thescurvy and flux. At this time _we_ had only three men on the sick list, andonly one of them attacked with the scurvy. Several more, however, began toshew symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade ofcarrots, rob of lemons and oranges. 

I know not how to account for the scurvy raging more in the one ship thanthe other, unless it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being morescorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to theireating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, partly for want of knowing the right sorts, and partly because it was a newdiet, which alone was sufficient for seamen to reject it. To introduce anynew article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much for their good, requires both the example and authority of a commander; without both, ofwhich it will be dropt before the people are sensible of the benefitsresulting from it. Were it necessary, I could name fifty instances insupport of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well seamen, atfirst disliked celery, scurvy-grass, &c. , being boiled in the peas andwheat; and some refused to eat it. But, as this had no effect on myconduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice by little and little wore off;they began to like it as well as the others; and now, I believe, there washardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our being so free from thescurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made use of at New Zealand. Afterthis I seldom found it necessary to order any of my people to gathervegetables, whenever we came where any were to be got, and if scarce, happywas he who could lay hold on them first. I appointed one of my seamen to becook of the Adventure, and wrote to Captain Furneaux, desiring him to makeuse of every method in his power to stop the spreading of the diseaseamongst his people, and proposing such as I thought might tend towards it. But I afterwards found all this unnecessary, as every method had been usedthey could think of. [6]

The wind continued in the N. W. Quarter, and blew fresh at times, attendedwith rain; with which we stood to the N. E. On the 1st of August, at noon, we were in the latitude of 25° 1', longitude 134° 6' W. , and had a greathollow swell from N. W. The situation we were now in, was nearly the samethat Captain Carteret assigns for Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in1767. We therefore looked well out for it, but saw nothing. According tothe longitude in which he has placed it, we must have passed about fifteenleagues to the west of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not think itprudent, considering the situation of the Adventure's people, to lose anytime in looking for it. A sight of it would, however, have been of use inverifying, or correcting, not only the longitude of this isle, but of theothers that Captain Carteret discovered in this neighbourhood; hislongitude not being confirmed, I think, by astronomical observations, andtherefore liable to errors, which he could have no method to correct. 

As we had now got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, all hopesof discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect tofind, until we returned again to the south. I had now, that is on this andmy former voyage, crossed this ocean in the latitude of 40° and upwards, without meeting any thing that in the least induced me to think I shouldfind what I was in search after. On the contrary, every thing conspired tomake me believe there is no southern continent, between the meridian ofAmerica and New Zealand; at least, this passage did not produce anyindubitable signs of any, as will appear by the following remarks. Afterleaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily saw floating on the sea rock-weed, for the space of 18° of longitude. In my passage to New Zealand in1769, we also saw this weed, for the space of 12 or 14° of longitude beforewe made the land. The weed is undoubtedly the produce of New Zealand;because the nearer the coast, the greater quantity you see. At the greatestdistance from the coast, we saw it only in small pieces, generally morerotten, and covered with barnacles, an indubitable sign that it had beenlong at sea. Were it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that someother large land lay in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a small extentof coast to produce such a quantity of weed, as to cover so large a spaceof sea. It hath been already mentioned, that we were no sooner clear of thestraits, than we met with a large hollow swell from the S. E. , whichcontinued till we arrived in the longitude of 177° W. , and latitude 46°. There we had large billows from the N. And N. E. , for five dayssuccessively, and until we got 5° of longitude more to the east, althoughthe wind, great part of the time, blew from different directions. This wasa strong indication that there was no land between us and my track to thewest in 1769. After this, we had, as is usual in all great oceans, largebillows from every direction in which the wind blew a fresh gale, but moreespecially from the S. W. These billows never ceased with the cause thatfirst put them in motion; a sure indication that we were not near any largeland, and that there is no continent to the south, unless in a very highlatitude. But this was too important a point to be left to opinions andconjectures. Facts were to determine it, and these could only be obtainedby visiting the southern parts; which was to be the work of the ensuingsummer, agreeable to the plan I had laid down. As the winds continued toblow from the N. W. And W. , we had no other choice but to stand to thenorth, inclining more or less every day to the east. In the latitude of 21°we saw flying-fish, gannets, and egg-birds. On the sixth, I hoisted a boatout, and sent for Captain Furneaux to dinner, from whom I learnt that hispeople were much better, the flux having left them, and the scurvy was at astand. Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to thescorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. Theweather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. This seemed toannounce the approach of the so-much-wished-for trade-wind; which, at eighto'clock in the evening, after two hours calm, and some heavy showers ofrain, we actually got at S. E. We were, at this time, in the latitude of 19°36' S. , longitude 131° 32" W. The not meeting with the S. E. Trade-windsooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I directed mycourse to the W. N. W. , as well to keep in the strength of it, as to get tothe north of the islands discovered in my former voyage; that if any otherislands lay in the way, I might have a chance to discover them. [7] Duringthe day-time we made all the sail we could; but, in the night, either runan easy sail, or lay-to. We daily saw flying-fish, albacores, dolphins, &c. , but neither by striking, nor with hook and line, could we catch any ofthem. This required some art, which none of my people were masters of. 

On the 11th at day-break, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearerapproach, we found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in thedirection of N. W. And S. E. , and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa-nut trees shewed their lofty heads. I judged it to be one of those islesdiscovered by Mr Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17° 24', longitude 141° 39' W. , and I called it after the name of the ship, Resolution Island. The sickly state of the Adventure's crew made itnecessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite, where I was sureof finding refreshments. Consequently I did not wait to examine thisisland, which appeared too small to supply our wants, but continued ourcourse to the west, and at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen fromthe mast-head, bearing W. By S. Probably this was another of Bougainville'sdiscoveries. I named it Doubtful Island, and it lies in the latitude of 17°20', longitude 141° 38' W. I was sorry I could not spare time to haul tothe north of Mr Bougainville's track; but the getting to a place where wecould procure refreshments, was more an object at this time thandiscovery. [8]

During the night we steered W. By N. , in order to pass the north of theisland above-mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we discovered landright a-head, distant about two miles; so that day-light advised us of ourdanger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drownedislands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little islets rangedalong the north side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. Theseislets were clothed with wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees were onlydistinguishable. We ranged the south side of this isle or shoal at thedistance of one or two miles from the coral-bank, against which the seabroke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a large lake or inland sea, inwhich was a canoe under sail. 

This island, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude of17° 5', longitude 143° 16' W. The situation is nearly the same that isassigned for one of those discovered by Bougainville. I must here observe, that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are numerous in thispart of the ocean, ) Mr Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to thatdegree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. Wewere obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudesof the isles he discovered, as neither the one nor the other is mentionedin his narrative. Without waiting to examine this island we continued tosteer to the west, all sails set, till six o'clock in the evening, when weshortened sail to three top-sails, and at nine brought-to. 

The next morning at four a. M. We made sail, and at daybreak saw another ofthese low islands, situated in the latitude of 17° 4', longitude 144° 30'W. , which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. De Bougainville veryproperly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the DangerousArchipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that wewere surrounded by them, and how necessary it was to proceed with theutmost caution, especially in the night. 

At five o'clock p. M. We again saw land, bearing S. W. By S. , which weafterwards found to be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But asI was not sure of it at this time, and being desirous of avoiding the delaywhich lying by in the night occasioned, I hoisted out the cutter, andmanned her with an officer and seven men, with orders to keep as far a-headof the ships, with a light at her masthead, as a signal could bedistinguished, which she was to make in case she met with any danger. Inthis manner we continued to run all night; and, at six o'clock the nextmorning, I called her on board, and hoisted her in. For it did not appearshe would be wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swellfrom the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands;therefore I steered for Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting withany danger. [9]

 [1] Great shoals of cetaceous fish, of a perfectly black colour, with a white spot before the back-fin, passed by us. They were fired at from our vessel, and one of them being shot through the head, could no longer plunge under water, but began to beat about furiously on the surface, and tinged the sea with its blood. It seemed to be about three yards long, and was slender and blunt-headed, from whence our sailors called it the Bottle-nose, a name which Dale applies to a very different fish, the beaked whale, of which the beak or nose resembles the neck of a bottle. "--G. F. 

 [2] "Beds of sea-weeds frequently were seen floating on the sea, but we were now too much accustomed to their appearance, to attempt to draw any conclusions from it. The thermometer, which at our departure from New Zealand, stood at 51° at eight o'clock in the morning, sunk in proportion as we came to the southward to 48°, and sometimes to 47°, at the same time of day; but the temperature of the air upon the whole was extremely variable, and the weather equally unsettled. From thence it arose, that we daily observed rainbows, or parts of them about the horizon, especially in the morning. The wind during this time was likewise very changeable, and veered round the compass in a direction contrary to the course of the sun, that is, from west round by the north towards east, and so further on; but it chiefly prevailed from the easterly quarter, where we least expected it, so that our situation became tedious, and was made more irksome by frequent fogs, rains, and heavy swells. "--G. F. 

 [3] According to Sir G. F. , it seems that the venereal disease made its appearance on some of the Adventure's crew, as was intimated by Captain Furneaux to Captain Cook, during a visit paid to the latter. In the opinion of Mr F. , who is at some pains to investigate the subject, this disease was indigenous in New Zealand where the sailors contracted it, and not imported there by Europeans. This opinion is, no doubt, in confirmation of what the writer has elsewhere stated to be his own as to the general question respecting the origin of the disease; but he is bound in candour to admit, that it seems to rest on rather slender evidence and insufficient reasoning, in the present instance--so that he is less disposed to avail himself of it. Mr F. Himself is not positive as to the facts on which he founds his opinion, and consequently is not so as to the opinion. This is to be inferred from his concluding remarks, which, besides, exhibit so fair a specimen of just indignation and regret, as may deserve to be offered to the reader's notice. "If, " says he, "in spite of appearances, our conclusions should prove erroneous, it is another crime added to the score of civilized nations, which must make their memory execrated by the unhappy people, whom they have poisoned. Nothing can in the least atone for the injury they have done to society, since the price at which their libidinous enjoyments were purchased, instils another poison into the mind, and destroys the moral principles, while the disease corrupts and enervates the body. A race of men, who, amidst all their savage roughness, their fiery temper, and cruel customs, are brave, generous, hospitable, and incapable of deceiving, are justly to be pitied, that love, the source of their sweetest and happiest feelings, is converted into the origin of the most dreadful scourge of life. " In this last paragraph, there is reason to imagine Mr F. Has somewhat overstepped the modesty of both history and nature--the former, by too high commendation of the New Zealanders, who, whatever merit they may claim on other grounds, can scarcely be said, at least if facts are to be trusted, to be incapable of deceiving; and the latter, in ascribing greater influence to _love_ among these savages, than perhaps will ever be found realised in such a condition of our nature. One cannot believe, that so philosophical an enquirer should impute much efficacy as a source of happiness to the mere brute passion; and it is equally unlikely that so acute an observer should discover any thing more refined than such an appetite in the sexual intercourse among so rude a tribe. Probably then his language is fully more poetic than becomes the sober narrator. This, indeed, is nowise uncommon with him, as the reader perhaps is already convinced. But this very circumstance, it is obvious, is to his advantage as a writer. --E. 

 [4] "The uncomfortable season of the year, the many contrary winds, and the total want of interesting incidents, united to make this run extremely tedious to us all, and the only point we gained by it, was the certainty that no great land was situated in the South Sea about the middle latitudes. "--G. F. 

 [5] "The spirits of all our people were much exhilarated in proportion as we approached to the tropics, and our sailors diverted themselves with a variety of plays every evening. The genial mildness of the air was so welcome to us, after a long absence from it, that we could not help preferring the warm climates as the best adapted for the abode of mankind. "--G. F. 

 An observation of this sort, the evident result of experience, is worth a thousand treatises, in shewing how much man is the creature of circumstances and situation, and how justly his feelings, and of consequence his thoughts, are modified by climate and weather. Some philosophers, and, perhaps, more religionists, have endeavoured to devise means to render the human mind and character independent of physical elements. The attempt is just about as rational, and not a bit less presumptuous, than that of making them free of the Divine cognizance and authority, to which these elements are subjected. Such attempts, it seems pretty evident, have been the source of delusive self-congratulation in all ages of the world, and may be ascribed, with no very mighty stretch of fancy, to the same busy agent, by whom, in the earliest stage of our nature, man was tempted with the alluring hope of becoming "as God. " A wiser and more benevolent instructor would teach him, on the contrary, to acknowledge his dependences and avoiding forbidden things, to partake with cheerfulness of the material blessings which surround him. This is genuine confidence in the Supreme Ruler, though, to be sure, it has little or no charms for the obstinate stoic, or the conceited pharisee. But "wisdom, it is certain, will be justified of all who are under its influence. "--E. 

 [6] "The difference between the salubrity of the two vessels probably arose from the want of fresh air in the Adventure, our sloop being higher out of the water, so that we could open more scuttles in bad weather than our consort. Our people likewise made a greater consumption of sour-krout and wort, and particularly applied the grains of the latter to all blotches and swelled parts, a regimen which had been omitted by those in the Adventure. "--G. F. 

 [7] "After many wishes, and long expectation, we this day, (6th August, ) got the S. E. Trade-wind. Its manner of coming on was rather remarkable. About ten o'clock in the morning, a thick haze began to rise in the eastern quarter, which by noon was become so thick, and had spread so far, that it was with difficulty we got the sun's meridian altitude; but the N. W. Wind, which we had had for about a fortnight, during which time the weather was generally fine and pleasant, still continued to blow. In the afternoon we had some pretty brisk showers, with which the N. W. Wind died away, and it was calm till eight o'clock in the evening, when a brisk steady gale sprung up at S. E. , and proved permanent. "--W. 

 Mr F. Has given some very valuable remarks respecting the trade-winds but they are too long for this place. --E. 

 [8] "Our thermometer was now constantly between 70 and 80 degrees in the morning; but the heat was far from being troublesome, as the fair weather was accompanied by a strong pleasant trade-wind, "--G. F. 

 [9] This is a very fit place for the following curious observations on the formation of the low islands spoken of in the text. "All the low isles seem to me to be a production of the sea, or rather its inhabitants, the polype-like animals forming the lithophytes. These animalcules raise their habitation gradually from a small base, always spreading more and more, in proportion as the structure grows higher. The materials are a kind of lime mixed with some animal substance. I have seen these large structures in all stages, and of various extent. Near Turtle-Island, we found, at a few miles distance, and to leeward of it, a considerable large circular reef, over which the sea broke every where, and no part of it was above water; it included a large deep lagoon. To the east and north-east of the Society-Isles, are a great many isles, which, in some parts, are above water; in others, the elevated parts are connected by reefs, some of which, are dry at low-water, and others are constantly under water. The elevated parts consist of a soil formed by a sand of shells and coral rocks, mixed with a light black mould, produced from putrified vegetables, and the dung of sea-fowls; and are commonly covered by cocoa-nut trees and other shrubs, and a few antiscorbutic plants. The lower parts have only a few shrubs, and the above plants; others still lower, are washed by the sea at high-water. All these isles are connected, and include a lagoon in the middle, which is full of the finest fish; and sometimes there is an opening, admitting a boat, or canoe, in the reef, but I never saw or heard of an opening that would admit a ship. The reef, or the first origin of these cells, is formed by the animalcules inhabiting the lithophytes. They raise their habitation within a little of the surface of the sea, which gradually throws shells, weeds, sand, small bits of corals, and other things, on the tops of these coral rocks, and at last fairly raises them above water; where the above things continue to be accumulated by the sea, till by a bird, or by the sea, a few seeds of plants, that commonly grow on the sea-shore, are thrown up, and begin to vegetate; and by their annual decay and reproduction from seeds, create a little mould, yearly accumulated by the mixture from sand, increasing the dry spot on every side; till another sea happens to carry a cocoa-nut hither, which preserves its vegetative power a long time in the sea, and therefore will soon begin to grow on this soil, especially as it thrives equally in all kinds of soil; and thus may all these low isles have become covered with the finest cocoa-nut trees. The animalcules forming these reefs, want to shelter their habitation from the impetuosity of the winds, and the power and rage of the ocean; but as within the tropics, the winds blow commonly from one quarter, they, by instinct, endeavour to stretch only a ledge, within which is a lagoon, which is certainly entirely screened against the power of both; this, therefore, might account for the method employed by the animalcules in building only narrow ledges of coral rocks, to secure in this middle a calm and sheltered place, and this seems to me to be the most probable cause of the origin of all the tropical low isles, over the whole South Sea. "--F. 

 This theory has been pretty generally adopted by scientific men, and does not seem liable to any valid objection. The astonishment it may excite, is quite analogous to what is experienced on any discovery of the important ends to which the instinctive labours of other creatures are subservient, and is great, merely because of the conceived magnitude of the object to which it relates. But this affords no presumption against the truth of the theory; rather indeed, if the doctrine of final causes be allowed any credit, may be held, as in some degree, circumstantial evidence in its favour. We shall elsewhere, it is expected, have occasion to consider the subject with the attention it deserves. --E. 

SECTION X. 

_Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the criticalSituation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while theylay in Oaiti-piha Bay. _

On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island, orMaitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. By W. 1/2 W. Soon after Ibrought-to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to acquaintCaptain Furneaux that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, nearthe south-east end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we couldfrom that part of the island, before we went down to Matavia. This done, wemade sail, and at six in the evening saw the land bearing west. Wecontinued to stand on till midnight, when we brought-to, till four o'clockin the morning, and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze ateast. [1]

At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef. The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made itnecessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all theirefforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, whichthey exchanged for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew me again, andmany enquired for Mr Banks and others who were with me before; but not oneasked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our situation became still moredangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the westernpoint of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in theafternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, throughwhich I hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, I foundthere was not a sufficient depth of water; though it caused such an in-draught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal tothe Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into the stream, they werecarried with great impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceivedthis, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness, tobe carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not theleast effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We werenot more than two cables length from the breakers; and yet we could find nobottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships. We, however, dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up, the ship was in less than three fathom water, and struck at every fall ofthe sea, which broke close under our stem in a dreadful surf, andthreatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily, brought up close upon our bow without striking. 

We presently carried out two kedge-anchors, with hawsers to each; thesefound ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew. By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower-anchor, we got the ship a-float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting everyminute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in twoby the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. Iordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution; and when I saw thiswas practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light aircame off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that we soon gotclear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure, but before they reached her, she was under sail with the land-breeze, andsoon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe atsea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we but a fewdays before so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us intothis dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for, had the sea-breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure too. 

During the lime we were in this critical situation, a number of the nativeswere on board and about the ships. They seemed to be insensible of ourdanger, shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we werestriking, and left us a little before sun-set, quite unconcerned. [2]

We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards;and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay intwelve fathoms water about two cables length from the shore; both shipsbeing by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who broughtwith them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananoes, apples, yams, and other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several, who called themselveschiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles, and, in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls, a promise they neverdid, nor ever intended to perform. 

In the afternoon, I landed in company with Captain Furneaux, in order toview the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives, Ialso sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely anyleft on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected, and the natives to behave with great civility. 

Early in the morning, I sent the two launches and the Resolution's cutter, under the command of Mr Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we hadleft behind us; they returned about noon, with the Resolution's boweranchor, but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came offagain with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I also had aparty on shore, trading under the protection of a guard; nothing, however, was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were seen (Iwas told) about the houses of the natives. The cry was, that they belongedto Waheatoun the _Earee de hi_, or king, and him we had not yet seen, nor, I believe, any other chief of note. Many, however, who calledthemselves _Earees_, came on board, partly with a view of gettingpresents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way. 

One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, andmade presents to him and all his friends, which were not few; at length hewas caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them outof the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to meagainst those on deck, which occasioned my turning them all out of theship. My cabin guest made good haste to be gone; I was so much exasperatedat his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, Ifired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe, and take tothe water; I then sent a boat to take up the canoe, but as she came nearthe shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being insome pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boatto protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be firedalong the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and I wassuffered to bring away two canoes without the least shew of opposition. Inone of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened, but I soondissipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A fewhours after, we were all good friends again, and the canoes were returnedto the first person who came for them. 

It was not till the evening of this day, that any one enquired after Tupia, and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of his death, they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it wouldhave caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his deathbeen occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As little enquiry wasmade after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. De Bougainville. Butthey were continually asking for Mr Banks, and several others who were withme in my former voyage. 

These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsulaof Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the twokingdoms about five months before, and that _Otoo_ was the reigningprince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal friends aboutMatavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but, at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. 

On the 19th, we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers ofrain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover theAdventure's anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the daybefore, so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking ourselvesvery happy in having come off so well, considering the situation we hadbeen in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast, we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. Inreturn for his hospitality, I made him a present of an axe and otherthings; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the ships, where he madebut a short stay. 

Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening, when one of the natives made off with a musquet belonging to the guard onshore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our people afterhim, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, took fromhim the musquet, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainlyoperated more with them than principle. They deserve, however, to beapplauded for this act of justice, for, if they had not given theirimmediate assistance, it would hardly have been in my power to haverecovered the musquet, by any gentle means whatever, and by making use ofany other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value. 

The 21st, the wind was at north, a fresh breeze. This morning a chief mademe a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which, were anumber of cocoanuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown, over board; these he had picked up, and tied in bundles so artfully, thatwe did not at first perceive the cheat; when he was told of it, withoutbetraying the least emotion, and, as if he knew nothing of the matter, heopened two or three of them himself, signified to us, that he was satisfiedit was so, and then went ashore and sent off a quantity of plantains andbananoes. Having got on board a supply of water, fruit, and roots, Idetermined to sail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likelythat I should get an interview with Waheatoua, without which, it was veryimprobable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives, who knew myintention, slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai, but, inthe morning, the wind blew fresh at N. W. , and as we could not sail, I sentthe trading party on shore as usual. 

In the evening, I was informed that Waheatoua was come into theneighourhood, and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, Idetermined to wait one day longer, in order to have an interview with thisprince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company withCaptain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the natives. We met the chiefabout a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meetus; but, as soon as he saw us, he stopt, with his numerous train, in theopen air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a circle of people roundhim, and knew him at first sight, and he me, having seen each other severaltimes in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name ofTearee, but, upon the death of his father, Waheatoun, he took upon him thatname. 

After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stoolwith himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began toenquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He nextenquired how long I would stay, and when I told him no longer than nextday, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came downto five days, promising, that in that time I should have hogs in plenty;but, as I had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, Icould not put any faith in this promise; and yet, I believe, if I hadstaid, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The present I madehim consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike-nails, knives, looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c. ; in return, he ordered a pretty goodhog to be carried to our boat. We staid with him all the morning, duringwhich time, he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated. I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to placeby one of his attendants, whom he called stool-bearer. At length we tookleave, in order to return on board to dinner, after which, we visited himagain, and made him more presents, and he, in return, gave Captain Furneauxand me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the tradingplaces; so that we got in the whole, to-day, as much fresh pork as gave thecrews of both the ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having thisinterview with the chief. [3]

The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze. Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls, attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea, with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and did not leave us till they haddisposed of their cargoes. 

The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of theAdventure's sick people; many of them, who had been so ill as not to beable to move without assistance, were, in this short time so far recovered, that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, theResolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had beenlong sick, and who died the second day after our arrival, of a complicationof disorders, without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left LieutenantPickersgill, with the cutter, behind the bay, to purchase hogs, as severalhad promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to lose them. 

On the 25th; about noon, Mr Pickersgill returned with eight hogs, which hegot at Oaiti-piha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertainedby Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable, that this chiefnever once asked after Aotouroo, nor did he take the least notice when MrPickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. De Bougainville tells us, thisis the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the moreextraordinary, that he should neither enquire after him now, nor when hewas with us at Matavai, especially as they believed that we and M. DeBougainville came from the same country, that is, from _Pretane_, forso they called our country. They had not the least knowledge of any otherEuropean nation, nor probably will they, unless some of those men shouldreturn who had lately gone from the isle, of which mention shall be madebye and bye. We told several of them, that M. De Bougainville came fromFrance, a name they could by no means pronounce; nor could they pronouncethat of Paris much better; so that it is not likely that they will remembereither the one or the other long; whereas _Pretane_ is in everychild's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till theevening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay. 

 [1] Perhaps few descriptions of natural scenery excel the following, in real poetic effect:--"It was one of those beautiful mornings which the poets of all nations have attempted to describe, when we saw the isle of Otaheite, within two miles before us. The east-wind which had carried us so far, was entirely vanished, and a faint breeze only wafted a delicious perfume from the land, and curled the surface of the sea. The mountains, clothed with forests, rose majestic in various spiry forms, on which we already perceived the light of the rising sun: Nearer to the eye a lower range of hills, easier of ascent, appeared, wooded like the former, and coloured with several pleasing hues of green, soberly mixed with autumnal browns. At their foot lay the plain, crowned with its fertile bread-fruit trees, over which rose innumerable palms, the princes of the grove. Here everything seemed as yet asleep, the morning scarce dawned, and a peaceful shade still rested on the landscape. We discovered, however, a number of houses among the trees, and many canoes hauled up along the sandy beaches. About half a mile from the shore a ledge of rocks level with the water, extended parallel to the land, on which the surf broke, leaving a smooth and secure harbour within. The sun beginning to illuminate the plain, its inhabitants arose, and enlivened the scene. Having perceived the large vessels on their coast, several of them hastened to the beach, launched their canoes, and paddled towards us, who were highly delighted in watching all their occupations. "--G. F. 

 [2] "The natives on board, seeing us work so hard, assisted us in manning the capstern, hauling in ropes, and performing all sorts of labour. If they had had the least spark of a treacherous disposition, they could not have found a better opportunity of distressing us; but they approved themselves good-natured, and friendly in this, as on all other occasions. "--G. F. 

 [3] We tried all possible means to engage the people to sell some of their hogs to us, and offered hatchets, shirts, and other goods of value to the Taheitans; but still without success, their constant answer being, that these animals were the king's (aree's) property. Instead of acquiescing in this refusal, and acknowledging the kind disposition of the natives, who furnished us at least with the means of recovering our strength, and restoring our stock, a proposal was made to the captains, by some persons in the ships, to sweep away, by force, a sufficient number of hogs for our use, and afterwards to return such a quantity of our goods in exchange to the natives, as we should think adequate to the spoil we had taken. This proposal, which nothing but the most tyrannical principles, and the meanest selfishness could have dictated, was received with the contempt and indignation which it justly deserved. "--G. F. 

 This remark is of an earlier date than what is mentioned in the text, but, in the whole, is more suitably introduced here. It is to the praise of Cook, that his decision of character was founded on very liberal views of morality; and that he possessed independence of soul to manifest abhorrence of sinister suggestions, at the risk of losing both the advantage aimed at, and the partiality of those who made them. An apprehension of giving offence to men who are either esteemed or felt to be useful, has perhaps occasioned as much iniquitous conduct where the law of the strongest might be adopted, as ever resulted from the influence of directly vicious principles. But from this most mischievous weakness, it was one of the excellencies of that truly great man to be exempt. --E. 

SECTION XI. 

_An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left onthe Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships layin Matavai Bay. _

Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives; manyof whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gottentogether upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just goingto pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow'd_, and gone toOparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, asevery one seemed pleased to see me. A chief, whose name was Maritata, wasat this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the nextmorning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did. 

After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick, coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for Oparree;accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and others, Maritata and hiswife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seatedon the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him. After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such articlesas I guessed were most valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was myinterest to gain the friendship of this man. I also made presents toseveral of his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which Irefused to accept; telling them that what I had given was for _tiyo_(friendship). The king enquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that werewith me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that hewas personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that I should havesome hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him tovisit me on board. He said he was, _mataou no to poupoue_, that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions shewed him to be a timorousprince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, personable, well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeareduncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering, is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothingabove the breast. 

When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer'sobservatories, set up on the same spot where we observed the transit ofVenus in 1769. In the afternoon, I had the sick landed; twenty from theAdventure, all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I alsolanded some marines for a guard, and left the command to LieutenantEdgecumbe of the marines. 

On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paidme a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. Toall of them I made presents; and, after breakfast, took the king, hissister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried themhome to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable oldlady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She seized me by both hands, andburst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee mattyToutaha_--(Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead. ) I wasso much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible forme to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come andtaken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me seeher again, when I gave her an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux, who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, which if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them willno doubt multiply. After a short stay, we look leave and returned on board. 

Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with thecutter, as far as Ottahourou, to procure hogs. A little after sun-rise, Ihad another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and somefruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came onboard; but he and others went to the Adventure with the like present toCaptain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneauxon board the Resolution, when I made him a handsome return for the presenthe had brought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I could. She, the king's brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to-day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends weresitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselvesin great haste, being covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said_Earee, Earee_; giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoobeing present. This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rosefrom their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thoughtproper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where Ientertained him and his people with the bagpipes (of which music they arevery fond) and dancing by the seamen. He then ordered some of his people todance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were some, however, who could imitate the seamen pretty well, both in country-dancesand hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the lateToutaha's mother. This good old lady could not look upon me withoutshedding tears; however, she was far more composed than before. When wetook leave, the king promised to visit me again the next day; but said thatI must first come to him. In the evening Mr Pickersgill came back empty, but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would return in a few days. 

Next morning after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo as hehad requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the officers. Wemade him up a present of such things as he had not seen before. One articlewas a broad-sword; at the sight of which he was so intimidated, that I hadmuch ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him;where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off, and send it out of his sight. 

Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained witha dramatic _heuva_, or _play_, in which were both dancing andcomedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less aperson than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only; itlasted about an hour and a half, or two hours; and, upon the whole, waswell conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of theplay. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name wasfrequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected withus. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it, from those we saw at Ulielea in my former voyage. The dancing-dress of thelady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with longtassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. As soon as allwas over, the king himself desired me to depart; and sent into the boatdifferent kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this we returned onboard; and the next morning he sent me more fruit, and several smallparcels of fish. 

Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o'clock in the evening, whenwe were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, nearthe bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment. I suspectedthat it was occasioned by some of our own people; and immediately armed aboat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this disturbance, and tobring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to theAdventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing; for nonewere absent from the Resolution but those who were upon duty. The boat soonreturned with three marines and a seaman. Some others belonging to theAdventure were also taken; and, being all put under confinement, the nextmorning I ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. I did notfind that any mischief was done, and our people would confess nothing. Ibelieve this disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with thewomen. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fledfrom their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread manymiles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, byappointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the placeof his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before I couldsee him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last night's riot. 

As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a presentsuitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, whichhe had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a thing bynot asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he could be butlittle benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was made acquaintedwith. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, andopened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs; one for me, one forCaptain Furneaux, and one for Mr Forster. This last was small, of which wecomplained, calling it _ete, ete_. Presently after a man came into thecircle, and spoke to the king with some warmth, and in a very peremptorymanner; saying something or other about hogs. We at first thought he wasangry with the king for giving us so many, especially as he took the littlepig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause ofhis displeasure; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger thaneither of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When wetook leave, I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the nextday; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. Weembarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed hismarch back to Oparree. 

The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, andwater completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, Idetermined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly, on the 1st ofSeptember, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and theships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the day. Inthe afternoon, Mr Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which place Ihad sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My oldfriend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife, or mistress, (I knownot which, ) and some more of his friends, came along with Mr Pickersgill, in order to visit me. They brought me a present of two hogs and some fish;and Mr Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo; for he wentin the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed muchaltered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words shesaid to Mr Pickersgill were, _Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee isfrightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had littleor no property, and was herself subject to the Earee, which I believe wasnot the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown westerly allday, having shifted at once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obligedto dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfiedwith the reception they had met with. 

Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo, came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he mightbe of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered themselves, but Irefused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe and a spike-nail forhis father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they partedjust as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than father andson. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so; which was fartherconfirmed, by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as we werestanding out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. Inow saw that the whole was a trick to get something from me; well knowingthat Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of thematter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether he should goor stay; but he soon inclined to the former. I told them to return me theaxe and nails, and then he should go, (and so he really should, ) but theysaid they were on shore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed prettywell satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping when he viewed the landastern. [1]

 [1] Mr G. F. Has been so successful in his Otaheitan delineations, that though the subject occupied no small space of our preceding volume, and must again engage our attention, when we treat of Cook's third voyage, nevertheless we cannot help running the risk of the reader's impatience by a transcript of some of his sketches. Speaking of the natives first met with, he says, "The people around us had mild features, and a pleasing countenance; they were about our size, of a pale mahogany brown, had fine black hair and eyes, and wore a piece of cloth round their middle of their own manufacture, and another wrapped about the head in curious picturesque shapes like a turban. Among them were several females, pretty enough to attract the attention of Europeans, who had not seen their own countrywomen for twelve long months past. These wore a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, through which they had passed the head, so that one part of the garment hung down behind, and the other before, to the knees; a fine white cloth like a muslin, was passed over this in various elegant turns round the body, a little below the breast, forming a kind of tunic, of which one turn sometimes fell gracefully across the shoulder. If this dress had not entirely that perfect form, so justly admired in the draperies of the ancient Greek statues, it was however infinitely superior to our expectations, and much more advantageous to the human figure, than any modern fashion we had hitherto seen. "

 "It was not long before some of these good people came aboard. That peculiar gentleness of disposition, which is their general characteristic, immediately manifested itself in all their looks and actions, and gave full employment to those who made the human heart their study. They expressed several marks of affection in their countenance, took hold of our hands, leaned on our shoulders, or embraced us. They admired the whiteness of our bodies, and frequently pushed aside our clothes from the breast, as if to convince themselves that we were made like them. " According to this gentleman, it was the women of the "baser sort, " who yielded without difficulty to the solicitations of the sailors. "Some of them, " says he, "who came on board for this purpose, seemed not to be above nine or ten years old, and had not the least marks of puberty. So early an acquaintance with the world seems to argue an uncommon degree of voluptuousness, and cannot fail of affecting the nation in general. The effect, which was immediately obvious to me, was the low stature of the common class of people, to which all these prostitutes belonged. Among this whole order, we saw few persons above the middle size, and many below it; an observation which confirms what M. De Buffon has very judiciously said on the subject of early connections of the sexes. Their features were very irregular, and, in general, very ordinary, except the eyes, which were always large and full of vivacity; but a natural smile, and a constant endeavour to please, had so well supplied the want of beauty, that our sailors were perfectly captivated, and carelessly disposed of their shirts and clothes, to gratify their mistresses. The simplicity of their dress, &c. Might contribute to this attraction; and the view of several of these nymphs swimming all nimbly round the sloop, such as nature had formed them, was perhaps more than sufficient entirety to subvert the little reason which a mariner might have left to govern his passions. As trifling circumstances had given occasion to their taking the water. One of the officers on the quarter-deck intended to drop a bead into a canoe for a little boy about six years old; by accident it missed the boat and fell into the sea, but the child immediately leaped overboard, and diving after it, brought it up again. To reward his performance, we dropped some more beads to him, which so tempted a number of men and women, that they amused us with amazing feats of agility in the water, and not only fetched up several beads scattered at once, but likewise large nails, which, on account of their weight, descended quickly to a considerable depth. Some of them continued a long while under water, and the velocity with which we saw them go down, the water being perfectly clear, was very surprising. The frequent ablutions of these people seem to make swimming familiar to them from their earliest childhood; and, indeed, their easy position in the water, and the pliancy of their limbs, gave us reason to look on them almost as amphibious creatures. " These trifling ornaments were most eagerly coveted by all ages and sexes, and often prized much above any other European goods however useful, so prevalent and powerful is the love of ornament in our species. "The methods to obtain them from us were very different, and consequently not always equally successful. When we distributed a few beads to one set of people, some young fellows would impudently thrust their hands in between them, and demand their share, as though it had been their due; these attempts we always made it our business to discourage by a flat refusal. It was already become difficult to deny a venerable old man, who, with a hand not yet palsied by age, vigorously pressed ours, and with a perfect reliance upon our good-nature, whispered the petition in our ears. The elderly ladies, in general, made sure of a prize by a little artful flattery. They commonly enquired for our names, and then adopted us as their sons, at the same time introducing to us the several relations, whom we acquired by this means. After a series of little caresses, the old lady began, _Aima poe-èetee no te tayo mettua?_ "Have you not a little bead for your kind mother?" Such a trial of our filial attachment always had its desired effect, as we could not fail to draw the most favourable conclusions from thence in regard to the general kind disposition of the whole people: for to expect a good quality in others, of which we ourselves are not possessed, is a refinement in manners peculiar to polished nations. Our other female relations in the bloom of youth, with some share of beauty, and constant endeavours to please, laid a claim to our affections by giving themselves the tender name of sisters; and all the world will agree that this attack was perfectly irresistible. " But it must not be imagined that the fair sisters in this happy island, any more than elsewhere, were exempt from certain ruder passions, by which, at times, they seem to vie with the lords of the creation. Mr F. Has preserved a very characteristic trait of such a spirit of domination in his account of one of the Potatow's wives, which may be read, but it is to be hoped will not be imitated, by any of our female friends. "Polatehera, " says Mr F. "was so like him in stature and bulk, (one of the tallest and stoutest men in the island, ) that we unanimously looked upon her as the most extraordinary woman we had ever seen. Her appearance and her conduct were masculine in the highest degree, and strongly conveyed the idea of superiority and command. When the Endeavour bark lay here, she had distinguished herself by the name of Captain Cook's sister, and one day, being denied admittance into the fort on Point Venus, had knocked down the sentry who opposed her, and complained to her adopted brother of the indignity which had been offered to her. " Altogether, however, this gentleman is the eulogist of the natives and country of Otaheite, and admits, that he left them with great regret. We shall conclude our extracts from his description, by the following remarks as to the language:--"Many of them seeing us desirous of learning their language, by asking the names of various familiar objects, or repeating such as we found in the vocabularies of former voyages, took great pains to teach us, and were much delighted when we could catch the just pronunciation of a word. For my own part, no language seemed easier to acquire than this; every harsh and sibilant consonant being banished from it, and almost every word ending in a vowel. The only requisite, was a nice ear to distinguish the numerous modifications of the vowels which must naturally occur in a language confined to few consonants, and which, once rightly understood, give a great degree of delicacy to conversation. Amongst several observations, we immediately found that the O or E with which the greatest part of the names and words in (the account of) Lieutenant Cook's first voyage, is nothing else than the article, which many eastern languages affix to the greater part of their substantives. " He applies this observation to the name of the island which he thinks has been fortunately expressed by M. Bougainville in French, by Taiti, without the initial vowel usually given to it in English books. --E. 

SECTION XII. 

_An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the Incidentsthat happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of the Natives, coming away in the Adventure. _

As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my coursefor the island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the nextday, and spent the night, making short boards under the north end of theisland. At day-light, in the morning of the 3d, we made sail for theharbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine o'clock, in twenty-four fathoms water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I choseto turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolutionturned in very well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on thenorth side of the channel. I had the Resolution's launch in the waterready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately to theAdventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, withoutreceiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off tous, bringing with them some of the productions of the island; and as soonas the ships were both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and wasreceived by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed somepresents among them; and they presently after brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, beads, &c. The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that wehad a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork andfowls; and to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. Ilearnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, andthat he was hastening to this part to see me. 

Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on atrading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent anothertrading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to seethat it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessarypoint to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind, I went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to pay my first visit toOree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the placeby one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, tillwe had gone through some part of the following ceremony usually performedat this isle, on such like occasions. The boat in which we were desired toremain being landed before the chief's house, which stood close to theshore, five young plaintain trees, which are their emblems of peace, werebrought on board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, withtheir ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three;and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather toomysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me theinscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left with him inJuly 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a pieceof counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same time;which shews how well he had taken care of the whole. When they had made anend of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, whostill remained with us, desired us to decorate the young plaintain treeswith looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordinglydone, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards thechief, through the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us topass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, andour plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, asthe others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), thesecond for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (orfriendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told thathe would come to me; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, andembraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears which trickledplentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke thelanguage of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends wereintroduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted ofthe most valuable articles I had; for I regarded this man as a father. Inreturn he gave me a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all ourwants should be supplied; and it will soon appear how well he kept hisword. At length we took leave, and returned on board; and, some time after, Mr Pickersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Many more were got byexchanges on shore, and along-side the ships; besides fowls and fruit inabundance. [1]

This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th, together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, forwhich I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as notto fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready dressedfruit and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being againsent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening withtwenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchased on shore, andalong-side the ships. 

Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people, were sent on shore as usual; and, after breakfast, I went to the placemyself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublesomeand insolent. This man being pointed out to me, completely equipped in thewar habit, with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on mischief, I tookthese from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty, forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief, this made me the more suspicious of him, and occasioned me to send for aguard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. About this time, MrSparrman, having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was set upon by twomen, who stripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowsers, and struck him several times with his own hanger, but happily did him noharm. As soon as they had accomplished their end, they made off; afterwhich another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, andconducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of theinhabitants. The very instant Mr Sparrman appeared in the condition I havejust mentioned, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. I at firstconjectured they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived upon MrSparrman's relating the affair to us. As soon as I could recal a few of thenatives, and had made them sensible that I should take no step to injurethose who were innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, takingwith us the man who came back with Mr Sparrman, to confirm the complaint. As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as didmany others. After the first transports of his grief were over, he began toexpostulate with his people, telling them (as far as we could understand)how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and howbase it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minuteaccount of the things Mr Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all inhis power to recover them, and, rising up, desired me to follow him to myboat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of hissafety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no doubt, thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all theycould do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in mypower, they set up a great outcry. The grief they shewed was inexpressible;every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay, attemptedto pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs; for Icould not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be said, ordone, availed nothing. He insisted on my coming into the boat, which was nosooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spiritequal to that of her royal brother, was the only person who did not opposehis going. As his intention in coming into our boat was to go with us insearch of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly as far as was convenient bywater, then landed, entered the country, and travelled some miles inland, the chief leading the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length hestepped into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, andafter we were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther. But thisI opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end ofthe island, after things, the most of which, before they came into ourhands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used manyarguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my boatround to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if Ithought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he wasobliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him nofarther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I foundthat the thieves had got so much start of us, that we might follow them tothe remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them. Besides, asI intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, byputting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives were so muchalarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about the chief. Ittherefore became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things totheir former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree'ssister, and several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place. We immediately stepped into the boat in order to return on board, withoutso much as asking the chief to accompany us. He, however, insisted on goingalso, and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition andentreaties of those about him; his sister followed his example, and thetears and prayers of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen yearsof age, had no weight with her on this occasion. The chief sat at tablewith us, and made a hearty dinner; his sister, according to custom, eatnothing. After dinner, I sufficiently rewarded them for the confidence theyhad put in me; and, soon after, carried them both on shore, where somehundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced theirchief with tears of joy. All was now joy and peace: The people crowded in, from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filledtwo boats: Oree himself presented me with a large hog and a quantity offruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr Sparrman had lost) with partof his coat, were brought us; and we were told, we should have the othersthe next day. Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, hadsome things stolen from them, which were returned in like manner. 

Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been themore particular in relating, because it shews what great confidence thisbrave old chief put in us; it also in some degree shews, that friendship issacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all the formscustomary among them; and he seemed to think that this could not be brokenby the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be the greatargument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his going into myboat. His words were to this effect:--"Oree (meaning me, for so I wasalways called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to forfeit hisfriendship; why then should I not go with him?" We, however, may never findanother chief who will act in the same manner, under similar circumstances. It may be asked, What had he to fear? to which I answer, Nothing. For itwas not my intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a momentlonger than he desired. But how was he or the people to know this? Theywere not ignorant, that if he was once in my power, the whole force of theisland could not take him from me, and that, let my demands for his ransomhave been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus far theirfears, both for his and their own safety, were founded in reason. 

On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went topay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and MrForster. We took with us for a present, such things as were not onlyvaluable, but useful. I also left with him the inscription plate he hadbefore in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engravedthese words: "Anchored here, his "Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution andAdventure, September, 1773, " together with some medals, all put up in abag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce to the firstship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave me a hog; and, after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, wetook leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. Atthis interview nothing was said about the remainder of Mr Sparrman'sclothes. I judged they were not brought in; and for that reason did notmention them, lest I should give the chief pain about things I did not givehim time to recover; for this was early in the morning. 

When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes fullof hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long onboard, before Oree himself came to inform me, as we understood, that therobbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, orto see them punished; but this could not be done, as the Resolution wasjust under sail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chiefstayed on board till we were a full half league out at sea; then took amost affectionate leave of me; and went away in a canoe, conducted by oneman and himself; all the others having gone long before. I was sorry thatit was not convenient for me to go on shore with him, to see in what mannerthese people would have been punished; for I am satisfied, this was whatbrought him on board. 

During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheine, weprocured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls andfruits; and, had we stayed longer, might have got many more: For none ofthese articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared everywhere in as great abundance as ever. [2]

Before we quitted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on boardhis ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea; where he had had someproperty, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I atfirst rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself withthis man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants ofthese happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank;nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion: For their people of thefirst rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved, and moreintelligent, than the middling class of people, among whom Omai is to beranked. I have, however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of myerror: For excepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly of a deeper huethan that of the _Earees_, or gentry, who, as in other countries, livea more luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun), I muchdoubt whether any other of the natives would have given more generalsatisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very goodunderstanding, quick parts, and honest principles; he has a natural goodbehaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company; and a properdegree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons ofinferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but hasjudgment enough not to indulge them in any improper excess. I do notimagine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen intocompany where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation, I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applause ofthose with whom he associated; but, fortunately for him, he perceived thatdrinking was very little in use but among inferior people, and as he wasvery watchful into the manners and conduct of the persons of rank whohonoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest, and I neverheard that, during the whole time of his stay in England, which was twoyears, he ever once was disguised with wine, or ever shewed an inclinationto go beyond the strictest rules of moderation. 

Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first Lord ofthe Admiralty, introduced him to his majesty at Kew, when he met with amost gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty andgratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he willpreserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us he wascaressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit theesteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were the Earl ofSandwich, Mr Banks, and Dr Solander; the former probably thought it a dutyof his office to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitablecountry, where the wants and distresses of those in his department had beenalleviated and supplied in the most ample manner; the others, as atestimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met withduring their residence in his country. It is to be observed, that thoughOmai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, hisreturn to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he wasnot impatient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his returnapproached. He embarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted outfor another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and fullof gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced amongus. 

 [1] "On the walk to Oree's house, Dr Sparrman and I saw great numbers of hogs, dogs, and fowls. The last roamed about at pleasure through the woods, and roosted on fruit-trees; the hogs were likewise allowed to run about, but received regular portions of food, which were commonly distributed by old women. We observed one of them, in particular, feeding a little pig with the same fermented bread-fruit paste, called _mahei_; she held the pig with one hand, and offered it a tough pork's skin, but as soon as it opened the mouth to snap at it, she contrived to throw in a handful of the same paste, which the little animal would not take without this stratagem. The dogs, in spite of their stupidity, were in high favour with all the women, who could not have nursed them with a more ridiculous affection, if they had really been ladies of fashion in Europe. We were witnesses of a remarkable instance of kindness, when we saw a middle-aged woman, whose breasts were full of milk, offering them to a little puppy, which had been trained up to suck them. We were so much surprised at this sight, that we could not help expressing our dislike of it; but she smiled at our observation, and added, that she suffered little pigs to do the same service. Upon enquiry, however, we found that she had lost her child, and did her the justice amongst ourselves to acknowledge, that this expedient was very innocent, and formerly practised in Europe. "--G. F. 

 He might have added, and still is. It is quite usual in this country to use puppies in order to draw the breasts, when distended with milk, from the want or inability of a child to suck them. But it is, perhaps, quite erroneous to ascribe the practice to affection or kindness, in either Europe or Otaheite. --E. 

 [2] "The people of this island appeared to be so exactly like the Taheitians, that we could perceive no difference, nor could we by any means verify that assertion of former navigators, that the women of this island were in general fairer, and more handsome; but this may vary according to circumstances. They were, however, not so troublesome in begging for beads and other presents, nor so forward to bestow their favours on the new comers, though at our landing and putting off, some of the common sort frequently performed an indecent ceremony, which is described in the accounts of former voyages, but without any of the preparatory circumstances which Ooratooa practised. We had likewise much less reason to extol the hospitality of the inhabitants, their general behaviour being rather more indifferent, and the Taheitian custom of reciprocal presents almost entirely unknown. On our walks, we were unmolested, (Mr F. Relates also the assault of Dr Sparrman) but their conduct was bolder and more unconcerned than that of the Taheitians, and the explosion, as well as the effects of our fowling-pieces, did not strike them with fear and astonishment. These differences were certainly owing to the various treatment which the people of both islands had met with on the part of Europeans. There were, however, not wanting instances of hospitality and good-will even here. "--G. F. 

SECTION XIII. 

_Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an Account ofwhat happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, coming away in theResolution. _

The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where Iintended to stop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at theclose of the day, we spent the night making short boards. It was dark, butwe were sufficiently guided by the fishers lights on the reefs and shoresof the isles. The next morning, after making a few trips, we gained theentrance of the harbour; and, as the wind blew directly out, I sent a boatto lie in soundings, that we might know when to anchor. As soon as thesignal was made by her, we borrowed close to the south point of thechannel; and, with our sails set, shooting within the boat, we anchored inseventeen fathoms water. We then carried out anchors and hawsers, to warpin by; and, as soon as the Resolution was out of the way, the Adventurecame up in like manner, and warped in by the Resolution. The warping in, and mooring the ships, took up the whole day. 

We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than thenatives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latterthey exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refused as yet, havingalready as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however, obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little pigs, pepper, or eavoa-root, and young plantain trees, and handed them into theship, or put them into the boats along-side, whether we would or no; for ifwe refused to take them on board, they would throw them into the boats. Inthis manner, did these good people welcome us to their country. 

I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much enquired after at Huaheine;but, at this place, every one asked about him, and the occasion of hisdeath; and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with theanswers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell, thestory was the same, by whomsoever told. 

Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of theisle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no sort ofceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seated inhis own house, which stood near the water side, where he and his friendsreceived us with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeingme again, and desired that we might exchange names, which I accordinglyagreed to. I believe this is the strongest mark of friendship they can showto a stranger. He enquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, whowere with me when I first visited the island. After we had made the chiefand his friends the necessary presents, we went on board with a hog, andsome fruit, received from him in return; and in the afternoon he gave meanother hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment. Exchanges for fruit, &c. Were mostly carried on alongside the ships. Iattempted to trade for these articles on shore, but did not succeed, as themost of them were brought in canoes from distant parts, and carrieddirectly to the ships. 

After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief avisit; and we were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic_heava_, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted ofthree drums, the actors were seven men, and one woman, the chief'sdaughter. The only entertaining part in the drama, was a theft committed bya man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficientlydisplayed the genius of the people in this vice. The theft is discoveredbefore the thief has time to carry off his prize; then a scuffle ensueswith those set to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off thestage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder intriumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in fullexpectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had beforebeen informed that _Teto_ (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, andhad understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good_tiparahying_ (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict onsuch as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers arecertainly excluded from the protection of this law; them they rob withimpunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over, wereturned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening took a walk onshore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small islands, two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great distancefrom hence. [1]

On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, ayouth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog and somefruit; for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in ashirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself. Having staid some hours, they went on shore; as I also did soon after, butto another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the place wherehe found the boat, into which he put a hog and a quantity of fruit, withoutsaying a word to any body, and, with some of his friends, came on board, and dined with us. After dinner I had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principalchief of the isle. He was introduced to us by Oreo, and brought with him, as a present, a large hog, for which I made him a handsome return. Oreoemployed himself in buying hogs for me (for we now began to take of them), and he made such bargains as I had reason to be satisfied with. At lengththey all took leave, after making me promise to visit them next morning;which I accordingly did, in company with several of the officers andgentlemen. Oreo ordered an _heava_ to be acted for our entertainment, in which two very pretty young women were the actresses. This _heava_was somewhat different from the one I saw before, and not so entertaining. Oreo, after it was over, accompanied us on board, together with two of hisfriends. 

The following day was spent much in the same manner; and early in themorning of the 14th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the Resolution's launch, and Adventure's cutter, to Otaha, to procure an additional supply ofbananoes, and plantains, for a sea-store; for we could get little more ofthese articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for present consumption. Oreo, and some of his friends, paid me a pretty early visit this morning. Iacquainted the chief, that I would dine with him, and desired he wouldorder two pigs to be dressed after their manner, which he accordingly did, and, about one o'clock, I, and the officers and gentlemen of both ships, went to partake of them. When we came to the chiefs house, we found thecloth laid; that is, green leaves were strewed thick on the floor. Roundthem we seated ourselves; presently one of the pigs came over my head souceupon the leaves, and immediately after the other; both so hot as hardly tobe touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit andplantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man beingready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and itmust be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were nevercleaner, nor better dressed. For, though the pigs were served up whole, andone weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half asmuch, yet all the parts were equally well done, and eat much sweeter thanif dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son, and some other ofhis male friends, eat with us, and pieces were handed to others who satbehind: For we had a vast crowd about us; so that it might be truly said wedined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeirawhenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when hedined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As soon as we haddined, the boat's crew took the remainder; and by them, and those aboutthem, the whole was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common peoplerushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which theysearched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe, that thoughthere is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share. Some of our gentlemen being present when these pigs were killed anddressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. Into ten ortwelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several dailyattended the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the entrailsof the hogs we killed. Probably little else falls to the share of thecommon people. It however must be owned, that they are exceedingly carefulof every kind of provision, and waste nothing that can be eaten by man;flesh and fish especially. 

In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had beenacted almost every day since we had been here, either to entertain_us_, or for their own amusement, or perhaps both. [2]

Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorousdisposition of these people. We were surprised to find that none of themcame off to the ships as usual. Two men belonging to the Adventure havingstaid on shore all night, contrary to orders, my first conjectures were, that the natives had stripped them, and were now afraid to come near us, lest we should take some step to revenge the insult; but in order to bebetter satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went ashore to Oreo's house, whichwe found quite empty; he and all his family gone, and the wholeneighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted. The two men belonging to theAdventure made their appearance, and informed us that they had been verycivilly treated by the natives, but could give no account of the cause oftheir precipitate flight. All that we could learn from the very few thatdurst come near us, was, that severals were killed, others wounded by ourguns, pointing out to us where the balls went in and out of the body, &c. This relation gave me a good deal of uneasiness for the safety of ourpeople gone to Otaha, fearing that some disturbance had happened at thatisland. However, in order to be better informed, I determined, if possible, to see the chief himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having oneof the natives with us, and rowed along shore to the northward, the way wewere told he was gone. We soon came in sight of the canoe in which he was;but before we could come up with her he had got on shore. We landedpresently after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense crowd, however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One manoffered to carry me on his back; but the whole story appearing rather moremysterious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not choose to separatemyself from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him. We soon camebefore the place where our guide told us he was, and put in the boataccordingly. It grounded at some distance from the shore, where we were metby a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw herself into my arms, and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not possible to get one plain wordfrom her. With this old lady in my hand I went ashore, contrary to theadvice of my young man from Otaheite, who was more afraid than any of us, probably believing every word the people had told us. I found the chiefseated under the shade of a house, before which was a large area, andsurrounded by a vast number of people. As soon as I came to him, he threwhis arms about me, and burst into tears, in which he was accompanied by allthe women, and some of the men, so that the lamentation became general;astonishment alone kept me from joining with them. It was some time beforeI could get a word from any one; at last, all my enquiries gave me no otherinformation, than that they were alarmed on account of our boats beingabsent, thinking that the people in them had deserted from us, and that Ishould take some violent means to recover them. For when we assured themthat the boats would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, andto a man, denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people, and so it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the leastfoundation for these alarms, nor could we ever find out by what means thisgeneral consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an hour, Ireturned on board, three of the natives coming along with us, whoproclaimed the peace as we rowed along shore to all they saw. 

Thus matters were again restored to their former footing, and the nextmorning they came off to the ships as usual. After breakfast, CaptainFurneaux and I paid the chief a visit; we found him at his own houseperfectly easy, insomuch that he and some of his friends came on board anddined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man, Poreo, hadtaken a resolution to leave me. I have just mentioned _before_, hisbeing with us when I followed Oreo, and his advising me not to go on shore. He was so much afraid at that time, that he remained in the boat till heheard all matters were reconciled; then he came out, and presently after, met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship. Having mypowder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people who was byme, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more. 

In the afternoon, our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden withplantains, an article we were most in want of. They made the circuit of theisland, conducted by one of the Earees, whose name was Boba, and werehospitably entertained by the people, who provided them with victuals andlodging. The first night, they were entertained with a play, the second, their repose was disturbed by the natives stealing their military chest. This put them on making reprisals, by which means they recovered the mostof what they had lost. 

Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to putto sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who promisedto see me again before we departed. At four o'clock we began to unmoor; andas soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his friends, cameaboard. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs, the latter they evenbegged of us to take from them, calling out _Tiyo boa atoi_. --I amyour friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But our decks. Were alreadyso full of them, that we could hardly move, having, on board both ships, between three and four hundred. By the increase of our stock, together withwhat we had salted and consumed, I judge that we got at this island 400 orupwards; many, indeed, were only roasters, others again weighed one hundredpounds, or upwards, but the general run was from forty to sixty. It is noteasy to say how many we might have got, could we have found room for allthat were offered us. 

The chief, and his friends, did not leave me till we were under sail, andbefore he went away, pressed me much to know, if I would not return, andwhen? Questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders. MyOtaheitean youth's leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young menof this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought properto take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the greatOpoony, chief of that island. Soon after we were out of the harbour, andhad made sail, we observed a canoe following us, conducted by two men;whereupon I brought-to, and they presently came alongside, having broughtme a present of roasted fruit and roots from Oreo. I made them a properreturn before I dismissed them, and then set sail to the west, with theAdventure in company. 

 [1] "The accounts of the situation and distances of these isles, were so various and so vague, that we could by no means depend upon them, for we never met with any man who had visited them; however, they served to convince us, that the natives of the Society Isles have sometimes extended their navigation farther than its present limits, by the knowledge they have of several adjacent countries. Tupaya (Tupia), the famous man who embarked at Taheitee in the Endeavour, had enumerated a much more considerable list of names, and had actually drawn a map of their respective situations and magnitudes, of which Lieutenant Pickersgill obligingly communicated a copy to me. In this map we found all the names now mentioned, except two; but if his drawing had been exact, our ships must have sailed over a number of the islands which he had laid down. It is therefore very probable, that the vanity of appearing more intelligent than he really was, had prompted him to produce this fancied chart of the South Sea, and perhaps to invent many of the names of islands in it, which amounted to more than fifty. "--G. F. 

 [2] Some of our readers might be profited, perhaps, by considering the moral of the following incident, which occurred at this play. --"Among the spectators we observed several of the prettiest women of this country; and one of them was remarkable for the whitest complexion we had ever seen on all these islands. Her colour resembled that of white wax a little sullied, without having the least appearance of sickness, which that hue commonly conveys; and her fine black eyes and hair contrasted so well with it, that she was admired by us all. She received at first a number of little presents, which were so many marks of homage paid at the shrine of beauty; but her success, instead of gratifying, only sharpened her love of trinkets, and she incessantly importuned every one of us, as long as she suspected we had a single bead left. One of the gentlemen fortunately happened to have a little padlock in his hand, which she begged for as soon as she had perceived it. After denying it for some time, he consented to give it her, and locked it in her ear, assuring her that was its proper place. She was pleased for some time; but finding it too heavy, desired him to unlock it. He flung away the key, giving her to understand, at the same time, that he had made her the present at her own desire, and that if she found it encumbered her, she should bear it as a punishment for importuning us with her petitions. She was disconsolate upon this refusal, and weeping bitterly, applied to us all to open the padlock; but if we had been willing, we were not able to comply with her request, for want of the key. She applied to the chief, and he as well as his wife, son, and daughter, joined in praying for the release of her ear: They offered cloth, perfume-wood, and hogs, but all in vain. At last a small key was found to open the padlock, which put an end to the poor girl's lamentation, and restored peace and tranquillity among all her friends. Her adventure had, however, this good effect, that it cured her, and some of her forward country-women, of this idle habit of begging. "--G. F. 

SECTION XIV. 

_An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State of theIslands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of theInhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected. _

I shall now give some farther account of these islands; for, although Ihave been pretty minute in relating the daily transactions, some things, which are rather interesting, have been omitted. 

Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a ship about thesize of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour, near the S. E. Endof the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had been goneabout three months before we arrived. We were told that four of the nativeswere gone away with her, whose names were Debedebea, Paoodou, Tanadooee, and Opahiah. At this time, we conjectured this was a French ship, but, onour arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she was a Spaniard, whichhad been sent out from America. [1] The Otaheiteans complained of a diseasecommunicated to them by the people in this ship, which they said affectedthe head, throat, and stomach, and at length killed them. They seemed todread it much, and were continually enquiring if we had it. This ship theydistinguished by the name of _Pahai no Pep-pe_ (ship of Peppe), andcalled the disease _Apa no Pep-pe_, just as they call the venerealdisease _Apa no Pretane_ (English disease), though they, to a man, sayit was brought to the isle by M. De Bougainville; but I have alreadyobserved that they thought M. De Bougainville came from _Pretane_, aswell as every other ship which has touched at the isle. 

Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis'speople being affected with the venereal disease, either while they were atOtaheite, or after they left it, I should have concluded that long beforethese islanders were visited by Europeans, this or some disease which isnear akin to it, had existed amongst them. For I have heard them speak ofpeople dying of a disorder which we interpreted to be the pox before thatperiod. But, be this as it will, it is now far less common amongst them, than it was in the year 1769, when I first visited these isles. They saythey can cure it, and so it fully appears, for, notwithstanding most of mypeople had made pretty free with the women, very few of them wereafterwards affected with the disorder; and those who were, had it in soslight a manner, that it is easily removed. But among the natives, wheneverit turns to a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our people pretendto have seen some of them who had this last disorder in a high degree, butthe surgeon, who made it his business to enquire, could never satisfyhimself in this point. These people are, and were, before Europeans visitedthem, very subject to scrophulous diseases, so that a seaman might easilymistake one disorder for another. [2]

The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were, swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals, that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The fewthey had at this time, among them, seemed to be at the disposal of thekings. For while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou, orlesser peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw we were told belonged toWaheatoua; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greaterpeninsula, belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at thisisland, we got but twenty-four hogs, the half of which came from the twokings themselves; and, I believe, the other half were sold us by theirpermission or order. We were, however, abundantly supplied with all thefruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in seasoneither at this or the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what wegot the most of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots, wereto us a succedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of apples, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them _Aheeva_. This fruit wascommon to all the isles; but apples we got only at Otaheite, and found themof infinite use to the scorbutic people. Of all the seeds that have beenbrought to those islands by Europeans, none have succeeded but pumpkins;and these they do not like, which is not to be wondered at. 

The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two causes; first, to thenumber which have been consumed, and carried off by the shipping which havetouched here of late years; and, secondly, to the frequent wars between thetwo kingdoms. We know of two since the year 1767; at present a peacesubsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain much friendshipfor each other. I never could learn the cause of the late war, nor who gotthe better in the conflict. In the battle, which put an end to the dispute, many were killed on both sides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, andseveral other chiefs, who were mentioned to me by name. Toutaha liesinterred in the family Marai at Oparree; and his mother, and several otherwomen who were of his household, are now taken care of by Otoo, thereigning prince--a man who, at first, did not appear to us to muchadvantage. I know but little of Waheatoua of Tiarrabou. This prince, who isnot above twenty years of age, appeared with all the gravity of a man offifty. His subjects do not uncover before him, or pay him any outwardobeisance as is done to Otoo; nevertheless, they seem to shew him full asmuch respect, and he appeared in rather more state. He was attended by afew middle-aged, or elderly men, who seemed to be his counsellors. This iswhat appeared to me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islands, that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourishing statethan they were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyedthe blessing of peace; the people seemed to be as happy as any underheaven; and well they may, for they possess not only the necessaries, butmany of the luxuries of life in the greatest profusion; and my young mantold me that hogs, fowls, and fruits, are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, athing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this seemingcontradiction, I must observe, that the one was prejudiced against, and theother in favour of, this isle. 

The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of the natives, &c. Having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it willbe unnecessary to take notice of these subjects in this, unless where I canadd new matter, or clear up any mistakes which may have been committed. 

As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs, human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day toa _Marai_ in Matavai, in company with Captain Furneaux; having withus, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men who spoke theirlanguage tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom appearedto be an intelligent sensible man. In the _Marai_ was a_Tupapow_, on which lay a corpse and some viands; so that every thingpromised success to my enquiries. I began with asking questions relating tothe several objects before me, if the plantains, &c. Were for the_Eatua_? If they sacrificed to the _Eatua_, hogs, dogs, fowls, &c. ? To all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked, If theysacrificed men to the _Eatua_? He answered _Taata eno_; that is, bad men they did, first _Tipperahy_, or beating them till they weredead. I then asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? Hisanswer was No, only _Taata eno_. I asked him if any _Earees_were? He said, they had hogs to give to the _Eatua_, and againrepeated _Taatu eno_. I next asked, If _Towtows_, that is, servants or slaves, who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men, if they were sacrificed to the _Eatua_? His answer was No, only badmen. I asked him several more questions, and all his answers seemed to tendto this one point, that men for certain crimes were condemned to besacrificed to the gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeemthemselves. This, I think, implies, that on some occasions, humansacrifices are considered as necessary, particularly when they take suchmen as have, by the laws of their country, forfeited their lives, and havenothing to redeem them; and such will generally be found among the lowerclass of people. 

The man of whom I made these enquiries, as well as some others, took somepains to explain the whole of this custom to us; but we were not mastersenough of their language to understand them. I have since learnt from Omai, that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to hisaccount, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on the caprice of thehigh priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retiresalone into the house of God, and stays there some time. When he comes out, he informs them, that he has seen and conversed with their great God (thehigh priest alone having that privilege), and that he has asked for a humansacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a manpresent, whom, most probably, the priest has an antipathy against. He isimmediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment, who, no doubt (if necessary), has address enough to persuade the people that hewas a bad man. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge thathas been obtained of their religion, has been from information: And astheir language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend tothe greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known withcertainty. [3]

The liquor which they make from the plant called _Ava ava_, isexpressed from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in thenarrative of my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is assimple as it is disgusting to an European. It is thus: Several people takesome of the root, and chew it till it is soft and pulpy, then they spit itout into a platter or other vessel, every one into the same; when asufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it, accordingas it is to be strong or weak; the juice, thus diluted, is strained throughsome fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it is fit for drinking, and this is always done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat, and rather insipid. But, though it is intoxicating I only saw one instancewhere it had that effect, as they generally drink it with great moderation, and but little at a time. Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths, as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I haveseen them eat it wholly. 

At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite butvery little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea, that do notproduce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same use, asappears by Le Mair's account of Horn Island, in which he speaks of thenatives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned. 

Great injustice has been done the women of Otaheite, and the Society isles, by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grantthe last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But this is byno means the case; the favours of married women, and also the unmarried ofthe better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here, as in any othercountry whatever. Neither can the charge be understood indiscriminately ofthe unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no suchfamiliarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well as in othercountries, is very true, perhaps more in proportion, and such were thosewho came on board the ships to our people, and frequented the post we hadon shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a differentturn, even of the first rank, one is at first inclined to think that theyare all disposed the same way, and that the only difference is in theprice. But the truth is, the woman who becomes a prostitute does not seem, in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep a dye as to excludeher from the esteem and society of the community in general. On the whole, a stranger who visits England might, with equal justice, draw thecharacters of the women there, from those which he might meet with on boardthe ships in one of the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent-Gardenand Drury-Lane. I must however allow, that they are all completely versedin the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to theirconversation. It is therefore no wonder that they have obtained thecharacter of libertines. 

To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative ofmy former voyage, I shall now only add, that we found the latitude ofOaiti-piha Bay, in Otaheite, to be 17° 43' 26" south, and the longitude 0°21' 25" 1/2 east from Point Venus; or 149° 13' 24" west from Greenwich. Thedifference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus and Oaiti-piha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of theisland in 1769, by two miles, and 4-3/4 miles respectively. It is thereforehighly probable, that the whole island is of a greater extent than I, atthat time, estimated it to be. The astronomers set up their observatory, and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which theyfound to be 17° 29' 13" south. This differs but two seconds from that whichMr Green and I found; and its longitude, viz. 149° 34' 49" 1/2 west, forany thing that is yet known to the contrary, is as exact. 

Mr Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8" 863 per day, which is only 0" 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently itserror in longitude was trifling. 

 [1] "We heard that about the time mentioned by the natives, Don Juan de Langara y Huarte, sent out from the port of Callao in Peru, had visited Otaheite, but what the particulars of that voyage are, has never transpired. "--G. F. 

 [2] We anticipated such an opinion in a former volume, and cannot refrain quoting the following observations in support of it. --"The question, which has been agitated between the French and English navigators, concerning the first introduction of this evil to Otaheite, might be decided very favourably for them both, by supposing the disease to have existed there previous to their arrival. The argument, that some of Captain Wallis's people received the infection, does not seem to controvert this supposition, but only proves, that the women, who prostrated themselves to his men, were free from it; which was, perhaps, owing to a precaution of the natives, who might be apprehensive of exposing themselves to the anger of the strangers, by conferring such a desperate gift upon them. M. De Bougainville, with the politeness of a well-bred man, doubts whether the disease existed at Otaheite previous to his arrival or not; the English seaman asserts his opinion as facts in positive terms. We heard, however, of another disease of a different nature, whilst we stayed upon the island; and which they called _o-pay-no-Peppe_, (the sore of Peppe), adding that it was brought by the ship which they designed by that name, and which, according to different accounts, had either been two, three, or four months before us at Otaheite. By the account of the symptoms, it seemed to be a kind of leprosy. Nothing is more easy than to imagine, how the strangers (Spaniards) who visited Otaheite in that ship, might be erroneously charged with introducing that disease. In order to give rise to a general error of this sort, it is sufficient that it broke out nearly about the time of their arrival, and that some distant connections between them and the persons affected could be traced. This is the more probable, as it is certain, that there are several sorts of leprous complaints existing among the inhabitants, such as the elephantiasis, which resembles the yaws; also an eruption over the whole skin, and, lastly, a monstrous rotting ulcer, of a most loathsome appearance. However, all these very seldom occur, and especially the last; for the excellence of their climate, and the simplicity of their vegetable food, which cannot be too much extolled, prevent not only these, but almost all dangerous and deadly disorders. "--G. F. 

 [3] The reader will be abundantly supplied with information respecting the fact of human sacrifices being used at this island, when he comes to the account of the third voyage performed by Cook. --E. 

CHAPTER II. 

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO AND LEAVINGTHEM THE SECOND TIME. 

SECTION I. 

_Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of theDiscovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened atMiddleburg. _

After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west, inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracts of former navigators, and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam;for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there if Ifound it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay-toevery night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and22d the wind blew from N. W. , attended with thunder, lightning, and rain, having a large swell from S. S. E. And S. , which kept up for several days, --an indication that no land was near us in that direction. 

On the 23d, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the top-masthead, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. By W. To S. W. By S. Wehauled up for it with the wind at S. E. , and found it to consist of two orthree small islets, connected together by breakers like most of the lowisles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six leagues incircuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nuttrees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants; and had reason to thinkthere were none. The situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of19° 18' S. , longitude 158° 54' W. , is not very different from that assignedby Mr Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not easily determined, I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey ofthe navy, one of the lords of the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl ofBristol. 

As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delaywhich I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west;and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuits, the fruit which hadserved as a succedaneum being all consumed; but our stock of fresh porkstill continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In ourroute to the west we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and asmall sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles; we, therefore, conjectured that we had passed some land at no great distance. As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass graduallyincreased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21° 26' S. , longitude 170° 40' W. , it was 10° 45' E. 

At two o'clock p. M. On the 1st of October, we made the island ofMiddleburg, bearing W. S. W. ; at six o'clock it extended from S. W, by W. ToN. W. , distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in thedirection of N. N. W. The wind being at S. S. E. , I hauled to the south, inorder to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but ateight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it, and not knowing butthey might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorantof, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At day-break the nextmorning, we bore up for the S. W. Side of Middleburg, passing between it andthe little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two milesbroad. [1]

After ranging the S. W. Side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of itslength, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing theleast prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away forAmsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails beforewe observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming tooffer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and pliedin under the island. In the mean time, two canoes, each conducted by two orthree men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship withouthesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of theseislanders, and determined me to visit them, if possible. [2] After making afew trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathomswater, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. Thehighest land on the island bore S. E. By E. ; the north point N. E. 1/2 E. , and the west S. By W. 1/2 W. , and the island of Amsterdam extending from N. By W. 1/2 W. To N. W. 1/2 W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we weresurrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought withthem cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c. Several came on board; among them was one whom, by the authority he seemedto have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him apresent of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with whichhe was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whosename was Tioony. [3]

Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast ofthe ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure againstthe surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us onshore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, orany other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacificintentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. To exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room toland. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many whocould not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others heads, wholebales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking, or waiting for anything in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right andleft, and make room for us to land. [4] He then conducted us up to hishouse, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at thehead of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. Thesituation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships atanchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some ofthe richest productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on whichwe were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us onthe outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; andin return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which theydid with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, thisimmediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs weremusical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable. [5] After sittinghere some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of theadjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which wewere introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and abowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of _Eava_ for usto drink. Pieces of the root were first offered us to chew; but as weexcused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed byothers. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; thenmixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it wasproperly strained for drinking, they made cups, by folding of green leaves, which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of thesefilled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner ofbrewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, however; soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook. I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two personsdrink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor. 

This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an areabefore it on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with fruitand other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable shade, andwhose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air. 

Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned onboard to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table but eatnothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary. After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before; MrForster with his botanical party, and some of the officers and gentlemen, walked into the country. [6] Captain Furneaux and myself were conducted tothe chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, wereset before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed weeat much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honourto the feast. After this we signified our desire of seeing the country. Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations, which were laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with very neat fencesmade of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted withvarious fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us knowthe most of them belonged to himself. Near some of the houses, and in thelanes that divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and verylarge fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these theydid not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day, offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning, which determinedme to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam. 

The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie witheach other in doing what they thought would give us pleasure. [7] The shipswere crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with those on board, inwhich the greatest good order was observed; and I was sorry that the seasonof the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early thenest morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went on shore withCaptain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to take leave of the chief. He met us atthe landing-place, and would have conducted us to his house, had we notexcused ourselves. We therefore were seated on the grass, where we spentabout half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making thechief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assortment ofgarden-seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which heseemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, inorder to accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, hecalled to a canoe to put alongside, into which he and his friends went, andreturned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchangefish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly tohimself; but, when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange. 

 [1] "There appeared to be some low land at the bottom of the hills, which contained plantations of fine young bananas, whose vivid green leaves contrasted admirably with the different tints of various shrubberies, and with the brown colour of the cocoa-palms, which seemed to be the effect of winter. The light was still so faint, that we distinguished several fires glimmering in the bushes, but by degrees we likewise discerned people running along the shore. The hills which were low, and not so high above the level of the sea as the Isle of Wight, were agreeably adorned with small clumps of trees scattered at some distance, and the intermediate ground appeared covered with herbage, like many parts of England. "-G. F. 

 [2] "We threw a rope into one of these canoes which ran up close to us, and one of the three people in her came on board, and presented a root of the intoxicating pepper-tree of the South Sea Islands, touched our noses with his like the New Zealanders, in sign of friendship, and then sat down on the deck without speaking a word. The captain presented him with a nail, upon which he immediately held it over his own head, and pronounced _fagafetei_, which was probably an expression of thanksgiving. He was naked to the waist, but from thence to the knees he had a piece of cloth wrapped about him, which seemed to be manufactured much like that of Otaheite, but was covered with a brown colour, and a strong glue, which made it stiff, and fit to resist the wet. His stature was middle-sized, and his lineaments were mild and tolerably regular. His colour was much like that of the common Otaheiteans, that is, of a clear mahogany or chesnut brown; his beard was cut short or shaven, and his hair was black, in short, frizzled curls, burnt as it were at the tops. He had three circular spots on each arm, about the size of a crown-piece, consisting of several concentric circles of elevated points, which answered to the punctures of the Otaheiteans, but were blacker; besides these, he had other black punctures on his body. A small cylinder was fixed through two holes in the loop of his ear, and his left hand wanted the little finger. He continued his silence for a considerable while, but some others, who ventured on board soon after him, were of a more communicative turn, and after having performed the ceremony of touching noses, spoke a language which was unintelligible to us at that time. "--G. F. 

 [3] "They made a great deal of noise about us, every one shewing what he had to sell, and calling to some one of us, who happened to look towards them. Their language was not unpleasing, and whatever they said, was in a singing kind of tone. Many were bold enough to come on board, without expressing the least hesitation, and one of these seemed to be a chief, or a man of some quality, and was accordingly treated with a number of presents, which he severally laid on his head, when he received them, saying _fagafetei_ every time. Our English cloth and linen he admired most, and iron wares in the next degree. His behaviour was very free and unconcerned; for he went down into the cabin, and wherever we thought fit to conduct him. "--G. F. 

 [4] "The cordial reception which we met with, was such as might have been expected from a people well acquainted with our good intentions, and accustomed to the transitory visits of European ships. But these kind islanders had never seen Europeans among them, and could only have heard of Tasman, who visited the adjacent island, by imperfect tradition. Nothing was therefore more conspicuous in their whole behaviour than an open, generous disposition, free from any mean distrust. This was confirmed by the appearance of a great number of women in the crowd, covered from the waist downwards, whose smiles and looks welcomed us to the shore. "--G. F. 

 [5] "They beat time to the music by snapping the second finger and thumb, and holding the three remaining fingers upright. Their voices were very sweet and mellow, and they sung in parts. When they had gone, they were relieved by others, who sung the same tune, and at last they joined together in chorus. "--G. F. 

 [6] "The inhabitants seemed to be of a more active and industrious disposition than those of Otaheite and instead of following us in great crowds wherever we went, left us entirely by ourselves, unless we entreated them to accompany us. In that case we could venture to go with our pockets open, unless we had nails in them, upon which they set so great a value, that they could not always resist the temptation. We passed through more than ten adjacent plantations or gardens, separated by inclosures, communicating with each other by means of doors. In each of them we commonly met with a house, of which the inhabitants were absent. Their attention to separate their property seemed to argue a higher degree of civilization than we had expected. Their arts, manufactures, and music, were all more cultivated, complicated, and elegant, than at the Society Isles. But, in return, the opulence, or rather luxury, of the Otaheiteans seemed to be much greater. We saw but few hogs and fowls here; and that great support of life, the bread-tree, appeared to be very scarce. Yams, therefore, and other roots, together with bananoes, are their principal article of diet. Their clothing, too, compared to that of Otaheite, was less plentiful, or at least not converted into such an article of luxury as at that island. Lastly, their houses, though neatly constructed, and always placed in a fragrant shrubbery, were less roomy and convenient. "--G. F. 

 [7] "We were accosted with caresses by old and young, by men and women. They hugged us very heartily, and frequently kissed our hands, laying them on their breast, with the most expressive looks of affection that can be imagined. "--G. F. 

SECTION II. 

_The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a Place ofWorship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we remainedat that Island. _

As soon as I was on board, we made sail down to Amsterdam. The people ofthis isle were so little afraid of us, that some met us in three canoesabout midway between the two isles. They used their utmost efforts to geton board, but without effect, as we did not shorten sail for them, and therope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the Adventure, and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S. W. Coast ofAmsterdam at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in a greatsurf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glasses, to view the faceof the island, every part of which seemed to be laid out in plantations. Weobserved the natives running along the shore, displaying small white flags, which we took for ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting a StGeorge's ensign. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by some means orother, had been left on board the Adventure, now quitted her, and swam tothe shore; not knowing that we intended to stop at this isle, and having noinclination, as may be supposed, to go away with us. 

As soon as we opened the west side of the isle, we were met by severalcanoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly alongside, presented us with some _Eava_ root, and then came on board withoutfarther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs they could make, to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should anchor; atleast we so understood them. After a few boards, we anchored in VanDiemen's Road, in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's lengthfrom the breakers, which line the coast. We carried out the coasting-anchorand cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tailing on the rocks, in caseof a shift of wind or a calm. This last anchor lay in forty-seven fathomswater; so steep was the bank on which we anchored. By this time we werecrowded with people; some came off in canoes, and others swam; but, likethose of the other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c. , for which the seamen only bartered away their clothes. As it was probablethey would soon feel the effects of this kind of traffic, with a view toput a stop to it, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave ordersthat no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person whatever. 

The good effect of this order was found in the morning. For, when thenatives saw we would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought offbananoes and cocoa-nuts in abundance, some fowls and pigs; all of whichthey exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth: even old rags of anysort, was enough for a pig, or a fowl. 

Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade underthe direction of the officers, to prevent disputes, after breakfast Ilanded, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of theofficers; having along with us a chief, or person of some note, whose namewas Attago, who had attached himself to me, from the first moment of hiscoming on board, which was before we anchored. I know not how he came todiscover that I was the commander; but, certain it is, he was not long ondeck before he singled me out from all the gentlemen, making me a presentof some cloth, and other things he had about him; and as a greatertestimony of friendship, we now exchanged names; a custom which ispractised at Otaheite, and the Society Isles. We were lucky, or rather wemay thank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in therocks which line the shore. To this creek we were conducted by my friendAttago; and there we landed dry on the beach, and within the breakers, inthe face of a vast crowd of people, who received us in the same friendlymanner that those of Middleburg had done. [1]

As soon as we were landed; all the gentlemen set out into the country, accompanied by some of the natives. [2] But the most of them remained withCaptain Furneaux and me, who amused ourselves some time distributingpresents amongst them; especially to such as Attago pointed out, which werenot many, but who I afterwards found, were of superior rank to himself. Atthis time, however, he seemed to be the principal person, and to be obeyedas such. After we had spent some time on the beach, as we complained of theheat, Attago immediately conducted and seated us under the shade of a tree, ordering the people to form a circle round us. This they did, and neveronce attempted to push themselves upon us like the Otaheiteans. 

After sitting here some time, and distributing some presents to those aboutus, we signified our desire to see the country. The chief immediately tookthe hint, and conducted us along a lane that led to an open green, on theone side of which was a house of worship built on a mount that had beenraised by the hand of man, about sixteen or eighteen feet above the commonlevel. It had an oblong figure, and was inclosed by a wall or parapet ofstone, about three feet in height. From this wall the mount rose with agentle slope, and was covered with a green turf. On the top of it stood thehouse, which had the same figure as the mount, about twenty feet in length, and fourteen or sixteen broad. As soon as we came before the place, everyone seated himself on the green, about fifty or sixty yards from the frontof the house. Presently came three elderly men, who seated themselvesbetween us and it, and began a speech, which I understood to be a prayer, it being wholly directed to the house. This lasted about ten minutes; andthen the priests, for such I took them to be, came and sat down along withus, when we made them presents of such things as were about us. Having thenmade signs to them that we wanted to view the premises, my friend Attagoimmediately got up, and going with us, without showing the leastbackwardness, gave us full liberty to examine every part of it. 

In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall; from thisthe ascent to the house was easy, round which was a fine gravel walk. Thehouse was built, in all respects, like to their common dwelling-houses;that is, with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch. The eavescame down within about three feet of the ground, which space was filled upwith strong matting made of palm leaves, as a wall. The floor of the housewas laid with fine gravel; except, in the middle, where there was an oblongsquare of blue pebbles, raised about six inches higher than the floor. Atone corner of the house stood an image rudely carved in wood, and on oneside lay another; each about two feet in length. I, who had no intention tooffend either them or their gods, did not so much as touch them, but askedAttago, as well as I could, if they were _Eatuas_, or gods. Whether heunderstood me or no, I cannot say; but he immediately turned them over andover, in as rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood, which convinced me that they were not there as representatives of theDivinity. I was curious to know if the dead were interred there, and askedAttago several questions relative thereto; but I was not sure that heunderstood me, at least I did not understand the answers he made wellenough to satisfy my enquiries. For the reader must know, that at our firstcoming among these people, we hardly could understand a word they said. Even my Otaheitean youth, and the man on board the Adventure, were equallyat a loss; but more of this by and by. Before we quitted the house wethought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we laiddown upon the blue pebbles, some medals, nails, and several other things, which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up, and putthem in his pocket. The stones with which the walls were made that inclosedthis mount, were some of them nine or ten feet by four, and about sixinches thick. It is difficult to conceive how they can cut such stones outof the coral rocks. 

This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted thehigh road, and the green on which the people were seated. At this green oropen place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared tobe very public ones. The groves were composed of several sorts of trees. Among others was the _Etoa_ tree, as it is called at Otaheite, ofwhich are made clubs, &c. And a kind of low palm, which is very common inthe northern parts of New Holland. 

After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their languageis called _A-fia-tou-ca_, we desired to return; but, instead ofconducting us to the water-side as we expected, they struck into a roadleading into the country. This road, which was about sixteen feet broad, and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one; therebeing many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclosedon each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorchingsun by fruit trees, I thought I was transported into the most fertileplains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground; the roads occupiedno more space than was absolutely necessary; the fences did not take upabove four inches each; and even this was not wholly lost, for in many wereplanted some useful trees or plants. It was everywhere the same; change ofplace altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, no whereappears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks wemet numbers of people; some travelling down to the ships with their burdensof fruit; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road, byturning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing, withtheir backs to the fences, till we had passed. 

At several of the cross-roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, weregenerally _Afiatoucas_, such as already described; with thisdifference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall. Atlength, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than common;near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief, in our company. At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and weretreated with fruit, &c. 

We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests begana speech or prayer, which was first directed to the _Afiatouca_, andthen to me, and alternately. When he addressed me, he paused at everysentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not understandone single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at a losswhat to say, or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, hewas prompted by one of the other priests who sat by him. Both during thisprayer and the former one, the people were silent, but not attentive. Atthis last place we made but a short stay. Our guides conducted us down toour boat, and we returned with Attago to our ship to dinner. We had nosooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside, who, Iunderstood from Attago, was some king or great man. He was, accordingly, ushered on board; when I presented him with such things as he most valued(being the only method to make him my friend, ) and seated him at table todinner. We now saw that he was a man of consequence; for Attago would notsit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table; and, asthe old chief was almost blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towardshim. After the old man had eaten a bit of fish, and drank two glasses ofwine, he returned ashore. As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship, he came and took his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank twoglasses of wine. When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we foundthe old chief, who presented me with a hog; and he and some others took awalk with us into the country. 

Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the landing-place, and there found Mr Wales in a laughable, though distressed situation. Theboats which brought us on shore, not being able to get near the landing-place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes andstockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put themdown betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatchedaway by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It wasimpossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the sharp coral rocks, which compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boatwas put back to the ship, his companions had each made his way through thecrowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out thethief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our routeinto the country, was by the first-mentioned _Afiatouca_, before whichwe again seated ourselves, but had no prayers, although the old priest waswith us. Our stay here was but short. The old chief, probably thinking thatwe might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, andshewed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made the least enquiryafter any. I believe this to be the same that Tasman calls the _washing-place_ for the king and his nobles. 

From hence we were conducted down to the shore of Maria Bay, or north-eastside of the isle; where, in a boat-house, was shewn to us a fine largedouble canoe not yet launched. The old chief did not fail to make ussensible it belonged to himself. Night now approaching, we took leave ofhim, and returned on board, being conducted by Attago down to the water-side. 

Mr Forster and his party spent the day in the country botanizing; andseveral of the officers were out shooting. All of them were very civillytreated by the natives. We had also a brisk trade for bananoes, cocoa-nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls; all of which were procured for nails, and pieces ofcloth. A boat from each ship was employed in trading ashore, and bringingoff their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in ashort time. By this method we got cheaper, and with less trouble, a goodquantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had nocanoes to carry them off to the ships. [3]

Pretty early in the morning on the 5th, my friend brought me a hog and somefruit; for which I gave him a hatchet, a sheet, and some red cloth. [4] Thepinnace was sent ashore to trade as usual, but soon returned. The officerinformed me that the natives were for taking every thing out of the boat, and, in other respects, were very troublesome. The day before, they stolethe grapling at the time the boat was riding by it, and carried it offundiscovered. I now judged it necessary to have a guard on shore, toprotect the boats and people whose business required their being there; andaccordingly sent the marines, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. Soon after I went myself, with my friend Attago, Captain Furneaux, andseveral of the gentlemen. At landing, we found the chief, who presented mewith a pig. After this, Captain Furneaux and I took a walk into thecountry, with Mr Hodges, to make drawings of such places and things as weremost interesting. When this was done, we returned on board to dinner, withmy friend and two other chiefs; one of which sent a hog on board theAdventure for Captain Furneaux, some hours before, without stipulating forany return. The only instance of this kind. My friend took care to put mein mind of the pig the old king gave me in the morning; for which I nowgave a chequed shirt and a piece of red cloth. I had tied them up for himto carry ashore; but with this he was not satisfied. He wanted to have themput on him, which was no sooner done, than he went on deck, and shewedhimself to all his countrymen. He had done the same thing in the morningwith the sheet I gave him. In the evening we all went on shore again, wherewe found the old king, who took to himself every thing my friend and theothers had got. [5]

The different trading parties were so successful to-day as to procure forboth ships a tolerably good supply of refreshments. In consequence ofwhich, I, the next morning, gave every one leave to purchase whatcuriosities and other things they pleased. After this, it was astonishingto see with what eagerness every one caught at every thing he saw. It evenwent so far as to become the ridicule of the natives, who offered pieces ofsticks and stones to exchange. One waggish boy took a piece of humanexcrement on the end of a stick, and held it out to every one he met with. 

This day, a man got into the master's cabin, through the outside scuttle, and took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he wasgetting out into his canoe, and pursued by one of our boats, which obligedhim to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the boat madeseveral attempts to lay hold of him; but he as often dived under the boat, and at last having unshipped the rudder, which rendered her ungovernable, by this means he got clear off. Some other very daring thefts werecommitted at the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman's jacket out ofthe boat, and carried it off, in spite of all that our people in her coulddo. Till he was both pursued and fired at by them, he would not part withit; nor would he have done it then, had not his landing been intercepted bysome of us who were on shore. The rest of the natives, who were verynumerous, took very little notice of the whole transaction; nor were theythe least alarmed when the man was fired at. 

My friend Attago having visited me again next morning, as usual, broughtwith him a hog, and assisted me in purchasing several more. Afterwards wewent ashore; visited the old king, with whom we staid till noon, thenreturned on board to dinner, with Attago, who never once left me. Intendingto sail next morning, I made up a present for the old king, and carried iton shore in the evening. As soon as I landed, I was told by the officerswho were on shore, that a far greater man than any we had yet seen was cometo pay us a visit. Mr Pickersgill informed me that he had seen him in thecountry, and found that he was a man of some consequence, by theextraordinary respect paid him by the people. Some, when they approachedhim, fell on their faces, and put their head between their feet; and no onedurst pass him without permission. Mr Pickersgill, and another of thegentlemen, took hold of his arms, and conducted him down to the landing-place, where I found him seated with so much sullen and stupid gravity, that notwithstanding what had been told me, I really took him for an idiot, whom the people, from some superstitious notions, were ready to worship. Isaluted and spoke to him; but he neither answered, nor took the leastnotice of me; nor did he alter a single feature in his countenance. Thisconfirmed me in my opinion, and I was just going to leave him, when one ofthe natives, an intelligent youth, undertook to undeceive me; which he didin such a manner as left me no room to doubt that he was the king, orprincipal man on the island. Accordingly I made him the present I intendedfor the old chief, which consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of redcloth, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received thesethings, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid down by him, without losing a bit of his gravity, speaking one word, or turning his headeither to the right or left; sitting the whole time like a statue; in whichsituation I left him to return on board, and he soon after retired. I hadnot been long on board before word was brought me, that a quantity ofprovisions had come from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from theshore; and it consisted of about twenty baskets of roasted bananoes, sourbread, and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds weight. MrEdgcumbe and his party were just re-embarking, when these were brought tothe water-side, and the bearers said it was a present from the_Areeke_, that is, the king of the island, to the _Areeke_ of theship. After this I was no longer to doubt the dignity of this sullen chief. 

Early in the morning of the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, I wentashore with Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, in order to make some returnto the king, for his last night's present. We no sooner landed than wefound Attago, of whom we enquired for the king, whose name was Kohaghee-too-Fallangou. He accordingly undertook to conduct us to him; but, whetherhe mistook the man we wanted, or was ignorant where he was, I know not. Certain it is, that he took us a wrong road, in which he had not gone farbefore he stopped, and after some little conversation between him andanother man, we returned back, and presently after the king appeared, withvery few attendants. As soon as Attago saw him coming, he sat down under atree, and desired us to do the same. The king seated himself on a risingground, about twelve or fifteen yards from us: Here we sat facing oneanother for some minutes. I waited for Attago to shew us the way; butseeing he did not rise, Captain Furneaux and I got up, went and saluted theking, and sat down by him. We then presented him with a white shirt, (whichwe put on his back) a few yards of red cloth, a brass kettle, a saw, twolarge spikes, three looking-glasses, a dozen of medals, and some strings ofbeads. All this time he sat with the same sullen stupid gravity as the daybefore; he even did not seem to see or know what we were about; his armsappeared immoveable at his sides; he did not so much as raise them when weput on the shirt. I told him, both by words and signs, that we were goingto leave his island; he scarcely made the least answer to this, or anyother thing we either said or did. We, therefore, got up and took leave;but I yet remained near him, to observe his actions. Soon after, he enteredinto conversation with Attago and an old woman, whom we took to be hismother. I did not understand any part of the conversation; it however madehim laugh, in spite of his assumed gravity. I say assumed, because itexceeded every thing of the kind I ever saw; and therefore think it couldnot be his real disposition, unless he was an idiot indeed, as theseislanders, like all the others we had lately visited, have a great deal oflevity, and he was in the prime of life. At last he rose up, and retiredwith his mother and two or three more. [6]

Attago conducted us to another circle, where were seated the aged chief andseveral respectable old persons of both sexes; among whom was the priest, who was generally in company with this chief. We observed, that thisreverend father could walk very well in a morning, but in the evening wasobliged to be led home by two people. By this we concluded, that the juiceof the pepper-root had the same effect upon him, that wine and other strongliquors have on Europeans who drink a large portion of them. It is verycertain, that these old people seldom sat down without preparing a bowl ofthis liquor, which is done in the same manner as at Ulietea. We howevermust do them the justice to believe, that it was meant to treat us;nevertheless, the greatest part, if not the whole, generally fell to theirshare. I was not well prepared to take leave of this chief, havingexhausted almost all our store on the other. However, after rummaging ourpockets, and treasury-bag, which was always carried with me wherever Iwent, we made up a tolerable present, both for him and his friends. Thisold chief had an air of dignity about him that commanded respect, which theother had not. He was grave, but not sullen; would crack a joke, talk onindifferent subjects, and endeavour to understand us and be understoodhimself. During this visit, the old priest repeated a short prayer orspeech, the purport of which we did not understand. Indeed he wouldfrequently, at other times, break out in prayer; but I never saw anyattention paid to him by any one present. [7] After a stay of near twohours, we took leave, and returned on board, with Attago and two or threemore friends, who staid and breakfasted with us; after which they weredismissed, loaded with presents. 

Attago was very importunate with me to return again to this isle, and tobring with me cloth, axes, nails, &c. &c. Telling me that I should havehogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, in abundance. He particularly desired me, more than once, to bring him such a suit of clothes as I had on, which wasmy uniform. This good-natured islander was very serviceable to me, on manyoccasions, during our short stay. He constantly came on board every morningsoon after it was light, and never quitted us till the evening. He wasalways ready, either on board or on shore, to do me all the service in hispower: His fidelity was rewarded at a small expence, and I found my accountin having such a friend. [8]

In heaving in the coasting cable, it parted in the middle of its length, being chafed by the rocks. By this accident we lost the other half, together with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without anybuoy to it. The best bower-cable suffered also by the rocks; by which ajudgment may be formed of this anchorage. At ten o'clock we got under sail;but as our decks were much encumbered with fruit, &c. We kept plying underthe land till they were cleared. [9] The supplies we got at this isle, wereabout one hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of fowls, as manybananoes and cocoa-nuts as we could find room for, with a few yams; and hadour stay been longer, we no doubt might have got a great deal more. This insome degree shews the fertility of the island, of which, together with theneighbouring one of Middleburg, I shall now give a more particular account. 

 [1] "A party of the marines were posted on the beach in case of danger, to protect the captain's clerk, who traded for provisions. The natives did not express either surprise or dislike at this proceeding, perhaps, because they were unacquainted with its meaning. They received us with acclamations of joy as at Ea-oonhe, and desired us to sit down with them on the rocks along shore, which consisted of coral, and were covered with shell sand. We purchased several beautiful parroquets, pigeons, and doves, which they brought to us perfectly tame; and our young Borabora man, Mahine (or Odeedee), traded with great eagerness for ornaments made of bright red feathers, which he assured us had an extraordinary value at Otaheite and the Society Islands. Here they were commonly pasted to aprons used in their dances, and made of the fibres of cocoa-nuts, or fixed upon bananoe leaves, forming rhomboidal frontlets or diadems; and with a degree of extacy, which gave the greatest weight to his assertion, he shewed us that a little piece of feather-work, as broad as two or three fingers, would purchase the largest hog in his island. "--G. F. 

 [2] "We left the beach after the first acquaintance with the natives, and ascended a few feet into a wild forest consisting of tall trees, intermixed with shrubberies. This wood, though narrow, being in many places not above one hundred yards wide, was continued along the shore of Van Diemen's road, being more or less open in various parts. Beyond it the whole island was perfectly level. We walked across a piece of uncultivated land, about five hundred yards wide, which adjoined to the wood. Part of it appeared to have been planted with yams, but the rest was full of grass, and had a little swamp in the middle, where the purple water-hen, or _poula sultane_, resided in great numbers. As soon as we left this, we entered into a lane about six feet wide, between two fences of reed, which inclosed extensive plantations on each side. Here we met many of the natives, who were travelling to the beach with loads of provisions, and courteously bowed their heads as they passed by us, in sign of friendship, generally pronouncing some monosyllable or other, which seemed to correspond to the Otaheitean _tays_. The inclosures, plantations, and houses, were exactly in the same style as at Ea-oonhe, and the people had never failed to plant odoriferous shrubs round their dwellings. The mulberry, of which the bark is manufactured into cloth, and the bread-tree, were more scarce than at the Society Isles, and the apple of those islands was entirely unknown; but the shaddock well supplied its place. The season of spring, which revived the face of all nature, adorning every plant with blossoms, and inspiring with joyful songs the feathered tribe, doubtless contributed in a great measure to make every object pleasing in our eyes. But the industry and elegance of the natives, which they displayed in planting every piece of ground to the greatest advantage, as well as in the neatness and regularity of all their works, demanded our admiration, whilst it gave us room to suppose, that they enjoyed a considerable degree of happiness. One of the lanes between the inclosures, led us to a little grove, which we admired for its irregularity. An immense casuarina tree far out-topped the rest, and its branches were loaded with a vast number of blackish creatures, which we took for crows at a distance, but which proved to be bats when we came nearer. They clung to the twigs by the hooked claws, which are at the extremity of their webbed fingers and toes; sometimes they hung with the head downwards, and sometimes the reverse. We shot at them, and brought down six or eight at once, besides wounding several others which held foot on the tree. They were of the kind which is commonly called the vampyre, and measured from three to four feet between the expanded wings. A great number of them were disturbed at our firing, and flew from the tree very heavily, uttering a shrill piping note; some likewise arrived from remote parts at intervals to the tree, but the greatest number remained in their position, and probably go out to feed only by night. As they live chiefly upon fruit, it is likely that they commit great depredations in the orchards of the natives, some of whom being present when we fired, seemed very well pleased with the death of their enemies. " "We had already observed at Otaheite, at the Society Islands, and even at Ea- oonhe, that wherever we met with a casuarina, a burying-place was at hand. Therefore, at sight of this venerable tree, which was hung with ill-omened creatures, we immediately conjectured that it would lead us to a cemetery or place of worship, and the event shewed that we were not mistaken. We found a beautiful green lawn, inclosed on all sides by shady bushes and trees, amongst which casuarinas, pandangs, and wild sago-palms, appeared with their various tints of green. A row of Barringtonians, as big as the loftiest oaks, formed one side of it, and strewed it with their large blushing flowers. At the upper end of it, there was a rising two or three feet high, set out with coral- stones cut square. The area above was covered with a green sod, like the rest of the lawn. Two steps, likewise of coral rock, led up to this part, in the midst of which a house was situated, exactly like that which we saw at Ea-oonhe, " &c. --G. F. 

 [3] "We continued our walk through the plantations, and met with very few inhabitants, they being almost all gone towards the trading-place. Those we saw passed by us, or continued their occupations without stopping on our account. Neither curiosity nor distrust and jealousy excited them to prohibit our farther progress; on the contrary, they always spoke in a kind tone to us, which sufficiently characterized their disposition. We looked into many of the houses and found them empty, but always laid out with mats, and delightfully situated among odoriferous shrubs. Sometimes they were separated from the plantations by a little fence, through which a door, like those of Ea-oowhe, gave admittance, which could be shut on the inside. In that case only the area, which this fence inclosed around the hut, was planted with the odoriferous grove, which is so much in request with the natives. A walk of three miles, brought us to the eastern shore of the island, where it forms a deep angle, which Tasman called Maria Bay. Where we fell in with it, the ground sloped imperceptibly into a sandy beach; but as we walked along towards the north point, we found it rose perpendicularly, and in some places it was excavated and overhanging. It consisted, however, entirely of coral, which is a strong proof of some great change on our globe, as this rock can only be formed under water. Whether it was left bare by a gradual diminution of the sea, or perhaps by a more violent revolution which our earth may formerly have suffered, I shall not venture to determine. So much, however, may be assumed as a certainty, that if we suppose a gradual diminution of the sea, at the rate which they pretend to have observed in Sweden (see Mem. Of the Swed. Acad. Of Sciences at Stockholm), the emersion of this island must be of so modern a date, that it is matter of astonishment how it came to be covered with soil, herbage, and forests; so well stocked with inhabitants, and so regularly adorned as we really found it. " "After a long walk, during which we missed our way, and engaged one of the natives to become our guide, we entered a long narrow lane between two fences, which led us directly to the Fayetooca, or burying-place, we had left before. Here we found Captains Cook and Furneaux and Mr Hodges, with a great number of natives, seated on the fine lawn. They were in conversation with an old blear-eyed man, " &c. "From this place we returned to the sea shore, where a brisk trade for vegetables, fowls, and hogs was carried on, " &c. "It was near sun-set when we returned on board with our collection, and found the vessels still surrounded by many canoes, and the natives swimming about extremely vociferous. Among them were a considerable number of women, who wantoned in the water like amphibious creatures, and were easily persuaded to come on board, perfectly naked, without professing greater chastity than the common women at Otaheite and the Society Isles, " &c. --G. F. 

 [4] "He was drest in mats, one of which, on account of the coolness of the morning, he had drawn over his shoulders. He resembled all other uncivilized people in the circumstance that his attention could not be fixed to one object for any space of time, and it was difficult to prevail on him to sit still whilst Mr Hodges drew his portrait. After breakfast, the captains and my father prepared to return to the shore with him; but just as he was going out of the cabin, he happened to see an Otaheitean dog running about the deck; at this sight he could not conceal his joy, but clapped his hands on his breast, and, turning to the captain, repeated the word _goorree_ near twenty times. We were much surprised to hear that he knew the name of an animal which did not exist in his country, and made him a present of one of each sex, with which he went on shore in an extacy of joy. "--G. F. 

 [5] "I remained on board all this day to arrange the collection of plants and birds which we had made on our first excursion, and which was far from despicable, considering the small size of the island. The natives continued to crowd about our vessels in a number of canoes, whilst many were swimming to and from the shore, who were probably not rich enough to possess a canoe. Among the great numbers who surrounded us, we observed several whose hair seemed to be burnt at the ends, and were strewed with a white powder. Upon examination we found that this powder was nothing else than lime, made of shells or coral, which had corroded or burnt the hair. The taste of powdering was at its height in this island. We observed a man who had employed a blue powder, and many persons of both sexes who wore an orange powder made of turmerick. St Jerom, who preached against the vanities of the age, very seriously reprehends a similar custom in the Roman ladies: _'Ne irrufet crines, et anticipet sibi ignes Gehennæ_!' Thus, by an admirable similarity of follies, the modes of the former inhabitants of Europe are in full force among the modern antipodes; and our insipid beaux, whose only pride is the invention of a new fashion, are forced to share that slender honour with the uncivilized natives of an isle in the South Seas, "--G. F. 

 [6] "Upon enquiry, some of the sportsmen who had met with this man near Maria Bay, had been repeatedly told, that he was the chief of the whole island, in the same manner as Cookee (Captain Cook) was chief of our ships, and that they called him Ko-Haghee-too-Fallango. Whether this was his name or his title I cannot determine, as we never heard it mentioned again by the natives; but they all agreed in telling us, that he was their Areghee, or king. They added, that his name was Latoo-Ni-pooroo, of which we concluded that the former part (Latoo) was a title, it being the same which Schooten and La Maire, the Dutch navigators, in the year 1616, found at the Cocos, Traytors, and Horne islands, which are situated in this neighbourhood, only a few degrees to the northward. We were confirmed in this opinion by the great correspondence of the vocabularies, which these intelligent seamen have left us, with the language which was spoken at Tonga-Tabboo, and still more so by the entire similarity in the behaviour and customs of these islanders. "--G. F. 

 [7] Mr G. Forster agrees with Cook as to the toper-like qualities of this priest, but speaks of his having great authority among the people. This merely apparent difference of statement is quite easily understood, by what one may witness in some other countries, where respect for the ecclesiastical office is not unfrequently accompanied with the most thoroughly merited contempt of the self-degraded hirelings that sustain it. The _three-bottle_ vicar still continues in England, to obtain the accustomed reverence to his surplice, from the wondering parishioners, though the companions of his jovial hours have long ceased to feel the slightest compunctions arising from inward respect, when they laugh at his heinously red nose, or chorus in his ribaldry. The islanders of the South Sea are not singular then, in mentally disjoining official dignity from moral excellence. --E. 

 [8] "Here, however, as in all other societies of men, we found exceptions to the general character, and had reason to lament the behaviour of vicious individuals. Dr Sparrman and myself having left the beach where the Latoo attracted the attention of all our people, entered the wood in pursuit of farther discoveries in our branch of science. The first discharge of my fowling-piece at a bird brought three natives towards us, with whom we entered into conversation, as far as our superficial knowledge of their tongue would permit. Soon after, Dr Sparrman stepped aside into a thicket in search of a bayonet, which he had lost from the end of his musket. One of the natives, finding the temptation of the moment irresistible, grasped my fowling-piece, and struggled to wrest it from me. I called to my companion, and the two other natives ran away, unwilling to become the accomplices in this attack. In the struggle, our feet were entangled in a bush, and we both fell together; but the native, seeing he could not gain his point, and perhaps dreading the arrival of Dr Sparrman, got up before me, and took that opportunity of running off. My friend joined me immediately; and we concluded, that if there was something treacherous or vicious in the behaviour of this fellow, our separation was also imprudent, because it had furnished him with an opportunity to exercise his talents. "--G. F. 

 [9] "We had made such good use of the four months, after our departure from New Zealand, as to have crossed the South Sea in the middle latitudes, in the depth of winter, examined a space of more than forty degrees of longitude between the tropics, and refreshed our people at Otaheite, the Society Islands, and the Friendly Islands, during one and thirty days. The season for prosecuting our discoveries in high southern latitudes advanced, and the savage rocks of New Zealand were only to give us shelter, whilst we changed our fair-weather rigging, for such as might resist the storms and vigours of more inhospitable climates. "--G. F. 

SECTION III. 

_A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the Cultivation, Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, Customs, Government, Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants. _ [1]

These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January, 1642-3, and by him called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by thenatives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. They are situated betweenthe latitude of 21° 29' and 21° 3' south, and between the longitude of 174°40' and 175° 15' west, deduced from observations made on the spot. 

Middleburg, or Eaoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues incircuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirtsof this isle are mostly taken up in the plantations; the S. W. And N. W. Sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though veryfit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the beauty ofthe isle; for here are, agreeably dispersed, groves of cocoa-nut and othertrees, lawns covered with thick grass, here and there plantations, andpaths leading to every part of the island, in such beautiful disorder, asgreatly enlivens the prospect. [2]

The anchorage, which I named English Road, being the first who anchoredthere, is on the N. W. Side, in latitude 21° 20' 30" south. The bank is acoarse sand; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is fromtwenty to forty fathoms water. The small creek before it affords convenientlanding for boats at all times of the tide; which here, as well as at theother islands, rises about four or five feet, and is high water on the fulland change days about seven o'clock. The island of Tongatabu is shapedsomething like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are sevenleagues each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction ofE. S. E. And W. N. W. ; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, notexceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea. This island, andalso that of Eaoowee, is guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks, extending out from the shore one hundred fathoms more or less. On this reefthe force of the sea is spent before it reaches the land or shore. Indeed, this is in some measure the situation of all the tropical isles in this seathat I have seen; and thus nature has effectually secured them from theencroachments of the sea, though many of them are mere points when comparedto this vast ocean. Van Diemen's Road, where we anchored, is under thenorthwest part of the island, between the most northern and western points. There lies a reef of rocks without it, bearing N. W. By W. , over which thesea breaks continually. The bank does not extend more than three cableslength from the shore; without that, is an unfathomable depth. The loss ofan anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are sufficient proofs thatthe bottom is none of the best. 

On the east side of the north point of the island, (as Mr Gilbert, whom Isent to survey the parts, informed me) is a very snug harbour, of one mileor more in extent, wherein is seven, eight, and ten fathoms water, with aclean sandy bottom. The channel, by which he went in and out, lies close tothe point, and has only three fathoms water; but he believes, that fartherto the N. E. Is a channel with a much greater depth, which he had not timeto examine. Indeed, it would have taken up far more time than I could spareto have surveyed these parts minutely; as there lies a number of smallislets and reefs of rocks along the N. E. Side of the island, which seemedto extend to the N. E. Farther than the eye could reach. The island ofAmsterdam, or Tongatabu, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which areplanted some of the richest productions of nature, such as bread-fruit, cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananoes, shaddocks, yams, and some otherroots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them_Fighegea_, and at Otaheite _Ahuya_: In short, here are most ofthe articles which the Society Islands produce, besides some which theyhave not. Mr Forster tells me, that he not only found the same plants herethat are at Otaheite and the neighbouring isles, but several others whichare not to be met with there. And I probably have added to their stock ofvegetables, by leaving with them an assortment of garden seeds, pulse, &c. Bread-fruit here, as well as at all the other isles, was not in season; norwas this the time for roots and shaddocks. We got the latter only atMiddleburg. [3]

The produce and cultivation of this isle is the same as at Amsterdam; withthis difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated, whereas thewhole of the latter is. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling, arelaid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communicationfrom one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages;most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order thanwhat conveniency requires; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceedthose in the other isles. The materials of which they are built are thesame; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing, is allthe difference in their construction. The floor is a little raised, andcovered with thick strong mats; the same sort of matting serves to inclosethem on the windward side, the other being open. They have little areasbefore the most of them, which are generally planted round with trees, orshrubs of ornament, whose fragrancy perfumes the very air in which theybreathe. Their household furniture consists of a few wooden platters, cocoa-nut shells, and some neat wooden pillows shaped like four-footedstools or forms. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, servesthem for bedding. We got from them two or three earthen vessels, which wereall we saw among them. One was in the shape of a bomb-shell, with two bolesin it, opposite each other; the others were like pipkins, containing aboutfive or six pints, and had been in use on the fire. I am of opinion theyare the manufacture of some other isle; for, if they were of their own, weought to have seen more of them. Nor am I to suppose they came fromTasman's ships; the time is too long for brittle vessels like these to bepreserved. 

We saw no other domestic animals amongst them but hogs and fowls. Theformer are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea; but thelatter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and theirflesh equally good, if not better. We saw no dogs, and believe they havenone, as they were exceedingly desirous of those we had on board. My friendAttago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand, the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is _kooree_ or_gooree_, the same as at New Zealand, which shews that they are notwholly strangers to them. We saw no rats in these isles, nor any other wildquadrupeds, except small lizards. The land birds are pigeons, turtle-doves, parrots, parroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage, a variety ofsmall birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of the sea we knowbut little of; it is reasonable to suppose, that the same sorts of fish arefound here as at the other isles. [4] Their fishing instruments are thesame; that is, hooks made of mother-of-pearl, gigs with two, three, or moreprongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meshes wroughtexactly like ours. But nothing can be a more demonstrative evidence oftheir ingenuity than the construction and make of their canoes, which, inpoint of neatness and workmanship, exceed every thing of this kind we sawin this sea. They are built of several pieces sewed together with bandage, in so neat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to see the joints. All the fastenings are on the inside, and pass through kants or ridges, which are wrought on the edges and ends of the several boards which composethe vessel, for that purpose. They are of two kinds, viz. Double andsingle. The single ones are from twenty to thirty feet long, and abouttwenty or twenty-two inches broad in the middle; the stern terminates in apoint, and the head something like the point of a wedge. At each end is akind of deck, for about one-third part of the whole length, and open in themiddle. In some the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of whiteshells, stuck on little pegs wrought out of the same piece which composesit. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigatedwith sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are short, and broadest in the middle. The two vessels which compose the double canoeare each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in themiddle, and each end terminates nearly in a point; so that the body or hulldiffers a little in construction from the single canoe, but is put togetherexactly in the same manner; these having a rising in the middle round theopen part, in the form of a long trough, which is made of boards, closelyfitted together, and well secured to the body of the vessel. Two suchvessels are fastened to, and parallel to each other, about six or sevenfeet asunder, by strong cross beams, secured by bandages to the upper partof the risings above mentioned. Over these beams, and others which aresupported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid aboarded platform. All the parts which compose the double canoe, are made asstrong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immergedin water to the very platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor isit possible, under any circumstance whatever, for them to sink, so long asthey hold together. Thus they are not only vessels of burden, but fit fordistant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, which steps upon theplatform, and can easily be raised or taken down; and are sailed with alatteen-sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a littlebent or crooked. The sail is made of mats; the rope they make use of isexactly like ours, and some of it is four or five inch. On the platform isbuilt a little shed or hut, which screens the crew from the sun andweather, and serves for other purposes. They also carry a moveable fire-hearth, which is a square, but shallow trough of wood, filled with stones. The way into the hold of the canoe is from off the platform, down a sort ofuncovered hatchway, in which they stand to bale out the water. I thinkthese vessels are navigated either end foremost, and that, in changingtacks, they have only occasion to shift or jib round the sail; but of thisI was not certain, as I had not then seen any under sail, or with the mastand sail an end, but what were a considerable distance from us. 

Their working tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c. As at the otherislands. When we view the work which is performed with these tools, we arestruck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Theirknowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach themto prefer nails to beads, and such trifles; some, but very few, wouldexchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool we could givethem; consequently they got but few axes from us but what were given aspresents. But if we include the nails which were given by the officers andcrews of both ships for curiosities, &c. With those given for refreshments, they cannot have got less than five hundred weight, great and small. Theonly piece of iron we saw among them was a small broad awl, which had beenmade of a nail. 

Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans; and their colour isthat of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than amongst theinhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some of our gentlemen wereof opinion these were a much handsomer race; others maintained a contraryopinion, of which number I was one. Be this as it may, they have a goodshape, and regular features, and are active, brisk, and lively. The women, in particular, are the merriest creatures I ever met with, and will keepchattering by one's side, without the least invitation, or consideringwhether they are understood, provided one does but seem pleased with them. In general they appeared to be modest; although there was no want of thoseof a different stamp; and as we had yet some venereal complaints on board, I took all possible care to prevent the disorder being communicated tothem. On most occasions they shewed a strong propensity to pilfering; inwhich they were full as expert as the Otaheitans. 

Their hair in general is black, but more especially that of the women. Different colours were found among the men, sometimes on the same head, caused by something they put upon it, which stains it white, red, and blue. Both sexes wear it short; I saw but two exceptions to this custom, and themost of them combed it upwards. Many of the boys had it cut very close, except a single lock on the top of the head, and a small quantity on eachside. The men cut or shave their beards quite close, which operation isperformed with two shells. They have fine eyes, and in general good teeth, even to an advanced age. The custom of _tattowing_ or puncturing theskin prevails. The men are _tattowed_ from the middle of the thigh toabove the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers; and therebut very slightly. 

The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of cloth or matting wrappedround the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the waist, upwards, they are generally naked; and it seemed to be a custom to anoint theseparts every morning. My friend Attago never failed to do it; but whetherout of respect to his friend, or from custom, I will not pretend to say;though I rather think from the latter, as he was not singular in thepractice. 

Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, andbeads of mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, &c. Which are worn by both sexes. The women also wear on their fingers neat rings made of tortoise-shell, andpieces in their ears about the size of a small quill; but ear ornaments arenot commonly worn, though all have their ears pierced. They have also acurious apron made of the outside fibres of the cocoa-nut shell, andcomposed of a number of small pieces sewed together in such a manner as toform stars, half-moons, little squares, &c. It is studded with beads ofshells, and covered with red feathers, so as to have a pleasing effect. They make the same kind of cloth, and of the same materials, as atOtaheite; though they have not such a variety, nor do they make any sofine; but, as they have a method of glazing it, it is more durable, andwill resist rain for some time, which Otaheite cloth will not. Theircolours are black, brown, purple, yellow, and red; all made fromvegetables. They make various sorts of matting; some of a very finetexture, which is generally used for clothing; and the thick and strongersort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for their canoes, &c. Amongother useful utensils, they have various sorts of baskets; some are made ofthe same materials as their mats; and others of the twisted fibres ofcocoa-nuts. These are not only durable but beautiful; being generallycomposed of different colours, and studded with beads made of shells orbones. They have many little nick-nacks amongst them; which shews that theyneither want taste to design, nor skill to execute, whatever they take inhand. 

How these people amuse themselves in their leisure hours, I cannot say, aswe are but little acquainted with their diversions. The women frequentlyentertained us with songs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. Theyaccompany the music by snapping their fingers, so as to keep time to it. Not only their voices, but their music was very harmonious, and they have aconsiderable compass in their notes. I saw but two musical instrumentsamongst them. One was a large flute made of a piece of bamboo, which theyfill with their noses as at Otaheite; but these have four holes or stops, whereas those of Otaheite have only two. The other was composed of ten oreleven small reeds of unequal lengths, bound together side by side, as theDoric pipe of the ancients is said to have been; and the open ends of thereeds into which they blow with their mouths, are of equal height, or in aline. They have also a drum, which, without any impropriety, may becompared to an hollow log of wood. The one I saw was five feet six incheslong, and thirty inches in girt, and had a slit in it, from the one end tothe other, about three inches wide, by means of which it had been hollowedout. They beat on the side of this log with two drum-sticks, and produce anhollow sound, not quite so musical as that of an empty cask. 

The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting noses, as is done in New Zealand, and their sign of peace to strangers, is thedisplaying a white flag or flags; at least such were displayed to us, whenwe first drew near the shore. But the people who came first on boardbrought with them some of the pepper plant, and sent it before them intothe ship; a stronger sign of friendship than which one could not wish for. From their unsuspicious manner of coming on board, and of receiving us atfirst on shore, I am of opinion, they are seldom disturbed by eitherforeign or domestic troubles. They are, however, not unprovided with veryformidable weapons; such as clubs and spears, made of hard wood, also bowsand arrows. The clubs are from three to five feet in length, and of variousshapes. Their bows and arrows are but indifferent; the former being veryslight, and the latter only made of a slender reed, pointed with hard wood. Some of their spears have many barbs, and must be very dangerous weaponswhere they take effect. On the inside of the bow is a groove, in which isput the arrow; from which it would seem that they use but one. 

They have a singular custom of putting every thing you give them to theirheads, by way of thanks, as we conjectured. This manner of paying acompliment, is taught them from their very infancy; for when we gave thingsto little children, the mother lifted up the child's hand to its head. Theyalso used this custom in their exchanges with us; whatever we gave them fortheir goods, was always applied to the head, just as if it had been giventhem for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods, and if notapproved, return them back; but whenever they applied them to the head, thebargain was infallibly struck. When I had made a present to the chief ofany thing curious, I frequently saw it handed from one to another; andevery one, into whose hands it came, put it to the head. Very often thewomen would take hold of my hand, kiss it, and lift it to their heads. Fromall this it should seem, that this custom, which they call_fagafatie_, has various significations according as it is applied;all, however, complimentary. 

It must be observed, that the sullen chief or king did not pay me any ofthese compliments for the presents I made him. 

A still more singular custom prevails in these isles: We observed that thegreater part of the people, both men and women, had lost one, or both theirlittle fingers. [5] We endeavoured, but in vain, to find out the reason ofthis mutilation; for no one would take any pains to inform us. It wasneither peculiar to rank, age, or sex; nor is it done at any certain age, as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been just made; and, except some young children, we found few who had both hands perfect. As itwas more common among the aged than the young, some of us were of opinionthat it was occasioned by the death of their parents, or some other nearrelation. But Mr Wales one day met with a man, whose hands were bothperfect, of such an advanced age, that it was hardly possible his parentscould be living. They also burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near thecheek-bone. The reason of this was equally unknown to us. In some, thewounds were quite fresh; in others, they could only be known by the scars, or colour of the skin. I saw neither sick nor lame amongst them; allappeared healthy, strong, and vigorous; a proof of the goodness of theclimate in which they live. 

I have frequently mentioned a king, which implies the government being in asingle person, without knowing for certain whether it is so or no. Such anone was however pointed out to us; and we had no reason to doubt it. Fromthis, and other circumstances, I am of opinion that the government is muchlike that of Otaheite: That is, in a king or great chief, who is herecalled Areeke, with other chiefs under him, who are lords of certaindistricts, and perhaps sole proprietors, to whom the people seem to paygreat obedience. I also observed a third rank, who had not a littleauthority over the common people; my friend Attago was one of these. I amof opinion that all the land on. _Tongatabu_ is private property, andthat there are here, as at Otaheite, a set of people, who are servants orslaves, and have no property in land. It is unreasonable to suppose everything in common in a country so highly cultivated as this. Interest beingthe greatest spring which animates the hand of industry, few would toil incultivating and planting the land, if they did not expect to reap the fruitof their labour: Were it otherwise, the industrious man would be in a worsestate than the idle sluggard. I frequently saw parties of six, eight, orten people, bring down to the landing place fruit and other things todispose of, where one person, a man or woman, superintended the sale of thewhole; no exchanges were made but with his or her consent; and whatever wegave in exchange was always given them, which I think plainly shewed themto be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than servants. Thoughbenevolent nature has been very bountiful to these isles, it cannot be saidthat the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the curse of our forefathers:Part of their bread must be earned by the sweat of their brows. The highstate of cultivation their lands are in, must have cost them immenselabour. This is now amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every oneseems to partake. No one wants the common necessaries of life; joy andcontentment are painted in every face. Indeed, it can hardly be otherwise;an easy freedom prevails among all ranks of people; they feel no wantswhich they do not enjoy the means of gratifying; and they live in a climewhere the painful extremes of heat and cold are equally unknown. If naturehas been wanting in any thing, it is in the article of fresh water, whichas it is shut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. Arunning stream was not seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At Middleburg, we saw no water but what the natives had in vessels; but as it was sweetand cool, I had no doubt of its being taken up upon the island; andprobably not far from the spot where I saw it. 

So little do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it. Thebuildings called _Afiatoucas_, before mentioned, are undoubtedly setapart for this purpose. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion, that theywere merely burying-places. I can only say, from my own knowledge, thatthey are places to which particular persons directed set speeches, which Iunderstood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinionwith that of others, I was inclined to think that they are set apart to beboth temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in Europe. But Ihave no idea of the images being idols; not only from what I saw myself, but from Mr Wales's informing me that they set one of them up, for him andothers to shoot at. 

One circumstance shewed that these _Afiatoucas_ were frequentlyresorted to, for one purpose or other--the areas, or open places, beforethem, being covered with a green sod, the grass on which was very short. This did not appear to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but tohave been prevented in its growth, by being often trod, or sat upon. 

It cannot be supposed that we could know much, either of their civil orreligious policy, in so short a time as four or five days, especially as weunderstood but little of their language: Even the two islanders we had onboard could not at first understand them, and yet as we became the moreacquainted with them, we found their language was nearly the same spoken atOtaheite and the Society Isles. The difference not being greater than whatwe find betwixt the most northern and western parts of England, as willmore fully appear by the vocabulary. [6]

 [1] This subject is resumed in the account of Cook's third voyage, to which we refer for additional information. A few observations, however, are here given from the works already mentioned, as deserving the reader's immediate attention. --E. 

 [2] "Next to the Society Isles, for richness of productions, and beauty of appearance, we must place that group discovered by the Dutch navigator Tasman, and not unaptly to be distinguished by the name of Friendly Isles, from the peaceable kind disposition of their inhabitants. They are raised so high above the level of the sea, that they can no longer rank with the low islands; and being destitute of mountains, they are equally distinct from the high islands. They are extremely populous, and their uniform surface, therefore, gives the people an opportunity of carrying cultivation very far; and from one end to the other, they are intersected by paths and fences, which divide the plantations. At first, one might be apt to think that this high cultivation would give the botanist very scanty supplies of spontaneous plants; but it is the peculiar beauty of these elegant isles to join the useful to the agreeable in nature, by which means a variety of different wild species thrive among more that are cultivated in that pleasing disorder, which is so much admired in the gardens of this kingdom. "--F. 

 [3] Much of the difference betwixt the Society and Friendly Isles, seems to depend on the greater abundance of water in the former. This is noticed very judiciously by Mr G. F. , as will be seen in a following note. His father too was well aware of it. "The Friendly Isles, " says he, "seem to be destitute of springs; for though on some of them, as Eaoowhe and Anamocka, there are small hills and rising grounds; they are, however, far from being so high as to attract the clouds, or to cause, from their perpetual moisture, a continual flood of spring water. The natives have ponds, some of which are large, wherein they collect the rain water, but it is sometimes brackish from the vicinity of the sea. " He speaks, it may be added, of a large lagoon of salt water in Anamocka, about three miles long, full of small isles, ornamented with clusters of trees, and surrounded by bushes of man- groves and hills, so as altogether to form a romantic landscape. In his opinion, the soil is much the same in both clusters. --E. 

 [4] The following remarks, collected from Mr F. 's work, may prove useful to the reader:--"In the tropical isles they have but four species of quadrupeds, two of which are domestic; and the remaining ones are the vampyre and the common rat. This last inhabits the Marquesas, Society Isles, Friendly Isles, and the New Hebrides. They are in incredible numbers at the Society Isles, much scarcer at the Marquesas and Friendly Isles, and seldom seen at the New Hebrides. The vampyre is only seen in the more western isles. At the Friendly Isles they live gregarious by several hundreds, and some of them are seen flying about the whole day. The Society Isles alone are fortunate enough to possess both the domestic quadrupeds, the dog and the hog. New Zealand and the low islands must be content with dogs alone; the Marquesas, Friendly Isles, and New Hebrides, have only hogs; and Easter Island and New Caledonia are destitute of both. There is only one tame species of birds, properly speaking, in the tropical isles of the South Sea, viz. The common cock and hen; They are numerous at Easter Island, where they are the only domestic animals; they are likewise in great plenty at the Society Isles, and Friendly Isles, at which last they are of a prodigious size: They are also not uncommon at the Marquesas, Hebrides, and New Caledonia; but the low isles, and those of the temperate zone, are quite destitute of them. The natives of the Friendly and Society Isles sometimes catch and tame certain sorts of parroquets and pigeons, but never have any breeds of them, so that they can scarcely be reckoned as domestic birds. The South Sea is rich in fish, and has a great variety of species, most of which are good eating, many very delicious, and but a few capable of noxious or fatal effects. --E. 

 [5] This custom is not peculiar to the inhabitants of the Friendly Isles. See Recherches Philosophiques sur les Americains, tom. Ii. P. 253, &c. Of this custom, and of many of the topics mentioned in this Section, besides others of equal interest, the reader will be supplied with very ample accounts when he comes to the relation of the 3d voyage. --E. 

 [6] It appeared upon the whole, that the customs and language of these islanders have a great affinity with those of the Otaheitans, and it would not therefore be very singular to find a coincidence even in their amusements. The greatest differences between these two tribes, who must have originated from the same stock, seem to be owing to the different nature of these islands. The Society Isles are well furnished with wood, and the tops of these mountains are still covered with inexhaustible forests. At the Friendly Isles this article is much scarcer, the surface (at least of those which we have seen) being almost entirely laid out in plantations. The natural consequence is, that the houses are lofty and of immense extent in the first group of islands, but much smaller and less convenient in the last. In one the canoes are numerous, I may almost say innumerable, and many of a vast size; and, in the other, very few in number, and much smaller. The mountains of the Society Isles continually attract the vapours from the atmosphere, and many rivulets descend from the broken rocks into the plain, where they wind their serpentine course, and glide smoothly to the sea. The inhabitants of those islands take advantage of this gift of bountiful nature, and not only drink of the salutary element, but likewise bathe so frequently in it, that no impurity can long adhere to their skin. It is very different with a people who are absolutely denied this blessing, and who must either content themselves with putrid stagnant rain water in a few dirty pools, or go entirely without it. They are obliged to have recourse to expedients in order to preserve a certain degree of cleanliness, which may preclude various distempers. They, therefore, cut off their hair, and shave or clip their beards, which doubtless makes them look more unlike the Otaheitans than they would otherwise do. Still these precautions are not sufficient, especially as they have no fluid for drinking in any quantity. The body is therefore very subject to leprous complaints, which are perhaps irritated by the use of the pepper-root water or _awa_. Hence also that burning or blistering on the cheekbones, which we observed to be so general among this tribe, that hardly an individual was free from it, and which can only be used as a remedy against some disorders. The soil of the Society Isles in the plains and vallies is rich, and the rivulets which intersect it supply abundance of moisture. All sorts of vegetables, therefore, thrive with great luxuriance upon it, and require little attendance or cultivation. This profusion is become the source of that great luxury among the chiefs, which we do not meet with at Tonga-tabboo. There the coral rock is covered only with a thin bed of mould, which sparingly affords nourishment to all sorts of trees; and the most useful of all, the bread-fruit tree, thrives imperfectly on the island, as it is destitute of water, except when a genial shower happens to impregnate and fertilize the ground. The labour of the natives is therefore greater than that of the Otaheitans, and accounts for the regularity of the plantations, and the accurate division of property. It is likewise to this source we must ascribe it, that they have always set a higher value on their provisions than on their tools, dresses, ornaments, and weapons, though many of these must have cost them infinite time and application. They very justly conceive the articles of food to be their principal riches, of which the loss is absolutely not to be remedied. If we observed their bodies more slender, and their muscles harder than those of the Otaheitans, this seems to be the consequence of a greater and more constant exertion of strength. Thus, perhaps, they become industrious by force of habit, and when agriculture does not occupy them, they are actuated to employ their vacant hours in the fabrication of that variety of tools and instruments on which they bestow so much time, patience, labour, and ingenuity. This industrious turn has also led them, in the cultivation of all their arts, to so much greater perfection than the Otaheitans. By degrees they have hit upon new inventions, and introduced an active spirit, and enlivening cheerfulness even into their amusements. Their happiness of temper they preserve under a political constitution, which does not appear to be very favourable to liberty; but we need not go so far from home to wonder at such a phenomenon, when one of the most enslaved people in all Europe (the French, no doubt, are intended; this was published in 1777, ) are characterised as the merriest and most facetious of mankind. Still there may be more sincerity in the cheerfulness of the natives of Tonga-tabboo, for, exclusive of great and almost servile submission, their king does not seem to exact any thing from them, which, by depriving them of the means to satisfy the most indispensable wants of nature, could make them miserable. Be this as it may, so much seems to be certain, that their systems of politics and religion, from their similarity with the Otaheitan, as far as we could judge, must have had one common origin, perhaps in the mother country, from whence both these colonies issued. Single dissonant customs and opinions may have acceded to the primitive ideas, in proportion as various accidents, or human caprices, have given rise to them. The affinity of their languages is still more decisive. The greatest part of the necessaries of life, common to both groups of islands, the parts of the body, in short, the most obvious and universal ideas, were expressed at the Society and Friendly Isles, nearly by the same words. We did not find that sonorousness in the Tonga-tabboo dialect, which is prevalent in that of Otaheite, because the inhabitants of the former have adopted the F, K, and S, so that their language is more replete with consonants. This harshness is compensated, however, by the frequent use of the liquid letters L, M, N, and of the softer vowels E and I, to which we must add that kind of singing tone, which they generally retain even in common conversation. "--G. F. 

 No apology, it is presumed, need be given, for the insertion of so able a specimen of philosophical discernment, and judicious reasoning. Few men have exhibited happier talents for this department of literature, than the younger Forster; and it is perhaps the more generous to yield him this commendation now, as his merit has hitherto been almost totally immersed in the celebrity of greater names. His work is glaringly superior, in perhaps every particular, to the compilation of Dr Hawkesworth; and the writer for one, would feel ashamed of himself, if he had not courage to avow his opinion, that it manifests greater excellencies than Cook's own relation, for which, indeed, it would be easy to specify many reasons. This comparison, it may be said, is invidious, the two men being so differently constituted, as to habits and education, and having such different objects in view in their undertakings, as to imply legitimate and specific dissimilarity. Be it so, in the main. But how is justice to be done them unless by comparison? As navigator and naturalist, they have few or no common features, and cannot, therefore, be confronted; but as authors describing the manners and appearances of distant and singular people, and relating occurrences and transactions common to both, they have only one sort of character, which will and ought to be judged of by the public, according to the same standard. --E. 

SECTION IV. 

_Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account of anInterview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation of the twoShips . _

About the time we were in a condition to make sail, a canoe, conducted byfour men, came along-side, with one of those drums already mentioned, onwhich one man kept continually beating; thinking, no doubt, the music wouldcharm us. I gave them a piece of cloth and a nail, for the drum; and tookan opportunity to send to my friend Attago some wheat, pease, and beans, which I had forgot to give him when he had the other seeds. As soon as thiscanoe was gone, we made sail to the southward, having a gentle gale at S. E. By E. ; it being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Soundin New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, and then to go on fartherdiscoveries to the south and east. 

In the afternoon on the 8th, we made the island of Pilstart, bearing S. W. By W. 1/2 W. , distant seven or eight leagues. This island, which was alsodiscovered by Tasman, is situated in the latitude of 22° 26' south, longitude 175° 59' west, and lies in the direction of S. 52° west, distantthirty-two leagues from the south end of Middleburg. It is more conspicuousin height than circuit; having in it two considerable hills, seeminglydisjoined from each other by a low valley. After a few hours calm the windcame to S. W. ; with which we stretched to the S. E. ; but on the 10th, itveered round by the south to the S. E. And E. S. E. And then we resumed ourcourse to the S. S. W. 

At five o'clock in the morning of the 21st, we made the land of NewZealand, extending from N. W. By N. To W. S. W. ; at noon, Table Cape borewest, distant eight or ten leagues. I was very desirous of having someintercourse with the natives of this country as far to the north aspossible; that is, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where I apprehended theywere more civilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound; in order to give themsome hogs, fowls, seeds, roots, &c. Which I had provided for the purpose. The wind veering to the N. W. And north, enabled us to fetch in with theland a little to the north of Portland, and we stood as near the shore aswe could with safety. We observed several people upon it, but noneattempted to come off to us. Seeing this, we bore away under Portland, where we lay-to some time, as well to give time for the natives to comeoff, as to wait for the Adventure. There were several people on Portland, but none seemed inclined to come to us; indeed the wind, at this time, blewrather too fresh for them to make the attempt. Therefore, as soon as theAdventure was up with us, we made sail for Cape Kidnappers, which we passedat five o'clock in the morning, and continued our course along-shore tillnine, when, being about three leagues short off Black-head, we saw somecanoes put off from the shore. Upon this I brought to, in order to givethem time to come on board; but ordered the Adventure, by signal, to standon, as I was willing to lose as little time as possible. 

Those in the first canoe, which came along-side, were fishers, andexchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next, were twomen, whom, by their dress and behaviour, I took to be chiefs. --These twowere easily prevailed on to come on board, when they were presented withnails and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on allthey could find, and with such eagerness, as plainly shewed they were themost valuable things we could give them. To the principal of these two menI gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. I believe, at first, he did notthink I meant to give them to him; for he took but little notice of them, till he was satisfied they were for himself. Nor was he then in such arapture as when I gave him a spike-nail half the length of his arm. However, at his going away I took notice, that he very well remembered howmany pigs and fowls had been given him, as he took care to have them allcollected together, and kept a watchful eye over them, lest any should betaken away. He made me a promise not to kill any; and if he keeps his word, and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to stock the wholeisland in due time; being two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks;The seeds were such as are most useful (viz. ) wheat, French and kidneybeans, pease, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams, &c. With these articles they were dismissed. It was evident these people hadnot forgot the Endeavour being on their coast; for the first words theyspoke to us were, _Mataou no te pow pow_ (we are afraid of the guns). As they could be no strangers to the affair which happened off CapeKidnappers in my former voyage, experience had taught them to have someregard to these instruments of death. 

As soon as they were gone, we stretched off to the southward, the windhaving now veered to the W. S. W. In the afternoon it increased to a freshgale, and blew in squalls; in one of which we lost our fore-top-gallantmast, having carried the sail a little too long. The fear of losing theland induced me to carry as much sail as possible. At seven in the morning, we tacked and stretched in shore, Cape Turnagain at this time bore aboutN. W. 1/2 N. Distant six or seven leagues. The Adventure, being a good wayto leeward, we supposed, did not observe the signal, but stood on;consequently was separated from us. During the night (which was spent inplying) the wind increased in such a manner as to bring us under ourcourses; it also veered to S. W. And S. S. W. , and was attended with rain. 

At nine in the morning on the 23d, the sky began to clear up, and the galeto abate, so that we could carry close-reefed top-sails. At eleven o'clockwe were close in with Cape Turnagain, when we tacked and stood off; at noonthe said Cape bore west a little northerly, distant six or seven miles. Latitude observed 41° 30' south. Soon after, the wind falling almost to acalm, and flattering ourselves that it would be succeeded by one morefavourable, we got up another top-gallant-mast, rigged top-gallant-yards, and loosed all the reefs out of the top-sails. The event was not equal toour wishes. The wind, indeed, came something more favourable, that is at W. By N. , with which we stretched along shore to the southward; but it soonincreased in such a manner, as to undo what we had but just done, and atlast stripped us to our courses, and two close-reefed top-sails under whichsails we continued all night. About day-light, the next morning, the galeabating, we were again tempted to loose out the reefs, and rig top-gallant-yards, which proved all lost labour; for, by nine o'clock, we were reducedto the same sail as before. [1] Soon after, the Adventure joined us; and atnoon Cape Palliser bore west, distant eight or nine leagues. This Cape isthe northern point of Eaheinomauwe. We continued to stretch to thesouthward till midnight, when the wind abated and shifted to S. E. Threehours after, it fell calm, during which we loosed the reefs out, with thevain hopes that the next wind which came would be favourable. We weremistaken; the wind only took this short repose, in order to gain strength, and fall the heavier upon us. For at five o'clock in the morning, being the25th, a gale sprung up at N. W. With which we stretched to S. W. ; CapePalliser at this time bore N. N. W. , distant eight or nine leagues. The windincreased in such a manner, as obliged us to take in one reef afteranother; and, at last, it came on with such fury, as made it necessary totake in all our sails with the utmost expedition, and to lie-to under barepoles. The sea rose in proportion with the wind; so that we had a terriblegale and a mountainous sea to encounter. Thus after beating up against ahard gale for two days, and arriving just in sight of our port, we had themortification to be driven off from the land by a furious storm. Twofavourable circumstances attended it, which gave us some consolation; itwas fair over head, and we were not apprehensive of a lee-shore. 

The storm continued all the day without the least intermission. In theevening we bore down to look for the Adventure, she being out of sight toleeward, and after running the distance we supposed her to be off, broughtto again without seeing her; it being so very hazy and thick in thehorizon, that we could not see a mile round us, occasioned by the spray ofthe sea being lifted up to a great height by the force of the wind. Atmidnight the gale abated; soon after fell little wind; and at last shiftedto S. W. , when we wore, set the courses and top-sails close-reefed, andstood in for the land. Soon after the wind freshened and fixed at south;but as the Adventure was some distance a-stern, we lay by for her tilleight o'clock, when we both made all sail, and steered N. By W. 1/2 W. Forthe Strait. At noon observed in 42° 27' south, Cape Palliser, by judgment, bore north, distant seventeen leagues. This favourable wind was not ofsufficient duration; in the afternoon it fell by little and little, and atlength to a calm; this at ten o'clock was succeeded by a fresh breeze fromthe north, with which we stretched to the westward. 

At three o'clock next morning, we were pretty well in with Cape Campbell onthe west side of the Strait, when we tacked, and stretched over for CapePalliser, under courses and close-reefed top-sails, having the wind atN. W. , a very strong gale and fair weather. At noon, we tacked and stretchedto S. W. , with the last-mentioned Cape bearing west, distant four or fiveleagues. In the afternoon, the gale increased in such a manner as broughtus under our courses. We continued to stretch to the S. W. Till midnight, when we wore, and set close-reefed top-sails. 

On the 28th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we wore, and stood again tothe S. W. Till noon, when we were obliged to lie-to under the fore-sail. Atthis time the high land over Cape Campbell bore west, distant ten or twelveleagues. The Adventure four or five miles to leeward. In the afternoon thefury of the gale began to abate; when we set the main-sail, close-reefedmain-top-sail, and stood to the windward with the wind at W. N. W. And W. ByN. A strong gale, attended with heavy squalls. 

In the morning of the 29th, the wind abated and shifted to S. W. A gentlegale. Of this we took immediate advantage, set all our sails, and stood forCape Palliser, which at noon bore W. By N. 1/2 N. , distant about sixleagues. The wind continued between the S. W. And south till five in theevening, when it fell calm. At this time we were about three leagues fromthe Cape. At seven o'clock the calm was succeeded by a gentle breeze fromN. N. E. , as fair as we could wish; so that we began to reckon what time weshould reach the Sound the next day; but at nine the wind shifted to itsold quarter N. W. , and blew a fresh gale, with which we stretched to theS. W. , under single-reefed topsails and courses, with the Adventure incompany. She was seen until midnight, at which time she was two or threemiles a-stern, and presently after she disappeared; nor was she to be seenat day-light. We supposed she had tacked and stood to the N. E. , by whichmanoeuvre we lost sight of her. 

We continued to stretch to the westward with the wind at N. N. W. , whichincreased in such a manner as to bring us under our two courses, aftersplitting a new main-topsail. At noon Cape Campbell bore W. By N. , distantseven or eight leagues. At three in the afternoon the gale began to abate, and to veer more to the north, so that we fetched in with the land, underthe Snowy Mountains, about four or five leagues to windward of the Lookers-on, where there was the appearance of a large bay, I now regretted the lossof the Adventure; for had she been with me, I should have given up allthoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's Sound to wood and water, and havesought for a place to get these articles farther south, as the wind was nowfavourable for ranging along the coast. But our separation made itnecessary for me to repair to the Sound, that being the place ofrendezvous. 

As we approached the land, we saw smoke in several places along the shore;a sure sign that the coast was inhabited. Our soundings were from forty-seven to twenty-five fathoms; that is, at the distance of three miles fromthe shore, forty-seven fathoms; and twenty-five fathoms at the distance ofone mile, where we tacked, and stood to the eastward, under the two coursesand close-reefed top-sails; but the latter we could not carry long beforewe were obliged to hand them. We continued to stand to the eastward allnight, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure in the morning. 

Seeing nothing of her then, we wore and brought to, under the fore-sail andmizen-stay-sail, the wind having increased to a perfect storm; but we hadnot been long in this situation before it abated, so as to permit us tocarry the two courses, under which we stood to the west; and at noon theSnowy Mountains bore W. N. W. , distant twelve or fourteen leagues. At sixo'clock in the evening the wind quite ceased; but this proved only amomentary repose; for presently after it began to blow with redoubled fury, and obliged us to lie-to under the mizen-stay-sail; in which situation wecontinued till midnight, when the storm lessened; and two hours after itfell calm. 

On the 1st of November, at four o'clock in the morning, the calm wassucceeded by a breeze from the south. This soon after increased to a freshgale, attended with hazy, rainy weather, which gave us hopes that the N. W. Winds were done; for it must be observed, that they were attended withclear and fair weather. We were not wanting in taking immediate advantageof this favourable wind, by setting all our sails, and steering for CapeCampbell, which at noon bore north, distant three or four leagues. At twoo'clock we passed the Cape, and entered the Strait with a brisk gale a-stern, and so likely to continue that we thought of nothing less thanreaching our port the next morning. Once more we were to be deceived; atsix o'clock, being off Cloudy Bay, our favourable wind was succeeded by onefrom the north, which soon after veered to N. W. , and increased to a freshgale. We spent the night plying; our tacks proved disadvantageous; and welost more on the ebb than we gained on the flood. Next morning, westretched over for the shore of Eaheinomauwe. At sun-rise the horizon beingextraordinarily clear to leeward, we looked well out for the Adventure; butas we saw nothing of her, judged she had got into the Sound. As weapproached the above-mentioned shore, we discovered on the east side ofCape Teerawhitte, a new inlet I had never observed before. Being tiredwith beating against the N. W. Winds, I resolved to put into this place if Ifound it practicable, or to anchor in the bay which lies before it. Theflood being favourable, after making a stretch off, we fetched under theCape, and stretched into the bay along the western shore, having fromthirty-five to twelve fathoms, the bottom everywhere good anchorage. At oneo'clock we reached the entrance of the inlet just as the tide of ebb wasmaking out; the wind being likewise against us, we anchored in twelvefathoms water, the bottom a fine sand. The easternmost of the Black Rocks, which lie on the larboard side of the entrance of the inlet, bore N. By E. , one mile distant; Cape Teerawhitte, or the west point of the bay, west, distant about two leagues; and the east point of the bay N. By east, fouror five miles. 

Soon after we had anchored, several of the natives came off in theircanoes; two from one shore, and one from the other. It required but littleaddress to get three or four of them on board. These people wereextravagantly fond of nails above every other thing. To one man I gave twococks and two hens, which he received with so much indifference, as gave melittle hopes he would take proper care of them. [2]

We had not been at anchor here above two hours, before the wind veered toN. E. , with which we weighed; but the anchor was hardly at the bows beforeit shifted to the south. With this we could but just lead out of the bay, and then bore away for the Sound under all the sail we could set; havingthe advantage, or rather disadvantage, of an increasing gale, which alreadyblew too hard. We hauled up into the Sound just at dark, after making twoboards, in which most of our sails were split; and anchored in eighteenfathoms water, between the White Rocks and the N. W. Shore. 

The next morning the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours calm;after that a breeze sprang up at N. W. , with which we weighed and ran upinto Ship Cove, where we did not find the Adventure, as was expected. 

 [1] "The water in Dr Lind's wind-gage was depressed 8-10ths of an inch at times. "--W. 

 "Though we were situated under the lee of a high and mountainous coast, yet the waves rose to a vast height, ran prodigiously long, and were dispersed into vapour as they broke by the violence of the storm. The whole surface of the sea was by this means rendered hazy, and as the sun shone out in a cloudless sky, the white foam was perfectly dazzling. The fury of the wind still increased so as to tear to pieces the only sail which we had hitherto dared to shew, and we rolled about at the mercy of the waves, frequently shipping great quantities of water, which fell with prodigious force on the decks, and broke all that stood in the way. The continual strain slackened all the rigging and ropes in the ship, and loosened every thing, insomuch that it gradually gave way, and presented to our eyes a general scene of confusion. In one of the deepest rolls the arm-chest on the quarter- deck was torn out of its place and overset, leaning against the rails to leeward. A young gentleman, Mr Hood, who happened to be just then to leeward of it, providentially escaped by bending down when he saw the chest falling, so as to remain unhurt in the angle which it formed with the rail. The confusion of the elements did not scare every bird away from us: From time to time a black shearwater hovered over the ruffled surface of the sea, and artfully withstood the force of the tempest, by keeping under the lee of the high tops of the waves. The aspect of the ocean was at once magnificent and terrific: Now on the summit of a broad and heavy billow, we overlooked an immeasurable expanse of sea, furrowed into numberless deep channels: Now, on a sudden, the wave broke under us, and we plunged into a deep and dreary valley, whilst a fresh mountain rose to windward with a foaming crest, and threatened to overwhelm us. The night coming on was not without new horrors, especially for those who had not been bred up to a seafaring life. In the captain's cabin, the windows were taken out and replaced by the dead-lights, to guard against the intrusion of the waves in wearing the ship. This operation disturbed from its retreat a scorpion, which had lain concealed in a chink, and was probably brought on board with fruit from the islands. Our friend Maheine assured us that it was harmless, but its appearance alone was horrid enough to fill the mind with apprehensions. In the other cabins the beds were perfectly soaked in water, whilst the tremendous roar of the waves, the creaking of the timbers, and the rolling motion, deprived us of all hopes of repose. To complete this catalogue of horrors, we heard the voices of sailors from time to time louder than the blustering winds, or the raging ocean itself, uttering horrible vollies of curses and oaths. "--G. F. 

 [2] "In their unthinking situation, the first moment they have nothing ready at hand to satisfy the cravings of appetite, our fowls must fall the victims to their voracity. If there are any hopes of succeeding in the introduction of domestic animals in this country, it must be in the populous bays to the northward, where the inhabitants seem to be the more civilized, and are already accustomed to cultivate several roots for their subsistance. "--G. F. 

SECTION V. 

_Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of theInhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents. --Departure fromthe Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some Descriptionof the Coast. _

The first thing we did after mooring the ship, was to unbend all the sails;there not being one but what wanted repair. Indeed, both our sails andrigging had sustained much damage in beating off the Strait's mouth. 

We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the natives, several ofwhom I remembered to have seen when I was here in the Endeavour, particularly an old man named Goubiah. [1] In the afternoon, I gave ordersfor all the empty water casks to be landed, in order to be repaired, cleaned, and filled, tents to be set up for the sail-makers, coopers, andothers, whose business made it necessary for them to be on shore. The nextday we began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, to overhaul her rigging, repair the sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith's forge to repairthe iron-work; all of which were absolutely necessary. We also made somehauls with the seine, but caught no fish; which deficiency the natives insome measure, made up, by bringing us a good quantity, and exchanging themfor pieces of Otaheitean cloth, &c. 

On the 5th, the most part of our bread being in casks, I ordered some to beopened, when, to our mortification, we found a good deal of it damaged. Torepair this loss in the best manner we could, all the casks were opened;the bread was picked, and the copper oven set up, to bake such parcels ofit, as, by that means, could be recovered. Some time this morning, thenatives stole, out of one of the tents, a bag of clothes belonging to oneof the seamen. As soon as I was informed of it, I went to them in anadjoining cove, demanded the clothes again, and, after some time spent infriendly application, recovered them. Since we were among thieves, and hadcome off so well, I was not sorry for what had happened, as it taught ourpeople to keep a better lookout for the future. 

With these people I saw the youngest of the two sows Captain Furneaux hadput on shore in Cannibal Cove, when we were last here: It was lame of oneof its hind legs; otherwise in good case, and very tame. If we understoodthese people right, the boar and other sow were also taken away andseparated, but not killed. We were likewise told, that the two goats I hadput on shore up the Sound, had been killed by that old rascal Goubiah. Thusall our endeavours to stock this country with useful animals were likely tobe frustrated, by the very people we meant to serve. Our gardens had faredsomewhat better. Every thing in them, except the potatoes, they had leftentirely to nature, who had acted her part so well, that we found mostarticles in a flourishing state: A proof that the winter must have beenmild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up; some, however, stillremained, and were growing, though I think it is probable they will neverbe got out of the ground. [2]

Next morning I sent over to the cove, where the natives reside, to haul theseine; and took with me a boar, and a young sow, two cocks, and two hens, we had brought from the isles. These I gave to the natives, being persuadedthey would take proper care of them, by their keeping Captain Furneaux'ssow near five months; for I am to suppose it was caught soon after wesailed. We had no better success with the seine than before; neverthelesswe did not return on board quite empty, having purchased a large quantityfrom the natives. When we were upon this traffic, they shewed a greatinclination to pick my pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand, which they had just given me with the other. This evil one of the chiefsundertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes made a shew of keeping thepeople at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but at the same timekept so good a look-out, as to detect him in picking my pocket of anhandkerchief; which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed toknow any thing of the matter, and then told him what I had lost. He seemedquite ignorant and innocent, till I took it from him; and then he put itoff with a laugh, acting his part with so much address, that it was hardlypossible for me to be angry with him; so that we remained good friends, andhe accompanied me on board to dinner. About that time, we were visited byseveral strangers, in four or five canoes, who brought with them fish, andother articles, which they exchanged for cloth, &c. These newcomers took uptheir quarters in a cove near us; but very early the next morning moved offwith six of our small water casks; and with them all the people we foundhere on our arrival. This precipitate retreat of these last, we supposedwas owing to the theft the others had committed. They left behind them someof their dogs, and the boar I had given them the day before, which I nowtook back again as I had not another. Our casks were the least loss we feltby these people leaving us: While they remained, we were generally wellsupplied with fish at a small expence. 

We had fair weather, with the wind at N. E. , on the 9th, which gave us somehopes of seeing the Adventure; but these hopes vanished in the afternoon, when the wind shifted to the westward. [3]

The next morning, our friends the natives returned again, and brought withthem a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for two hatchets. 

Fair weather on the 12th, enabled us to finish picking, airing, and bakingour biscuit; four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds of which wefound totally unfit to eat; and about three thousand pounds more could onlybe eaten by people in our situation. [4]

On the 13th, clear and pleasant weather. Early in the morning the nativesbrought us a quantity of fish, which they exchanged as usual. But theirgreatest branch of trade was the green talc or stone, called by themPoenammoo, a thing of no great value; nevertheless it was so much soughtafter by our people, that there was hardly a thing they would not give fora piece of it. [5]

The 15th being a pleasant morning, a party of us went over to the East Bay, and climbed one of the hills which overlooked the eastern part of theStrait, in order to look for the Adventure. We had a fatiguing walk tolittle purpose; for when we came to the summit, we found the easternhorizon so foggy, that we could not see above two miles. Mr Forster, whowas one of the party, profited by this excursion, in collecting some newplants. I now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more; but wastotally at a loss to conceive what was become of her. Till now, I thoughtshe had put into some port in the Strait, when the wind came to N. W. , theday we anchored in the Cove, and waited to complete her water. Thisconjecture was reasonable enough at first, but it was now hardly probableshe could be twelve days in our neighbourhood, without our either hearingor seeing something of her. 

The hill we now mounted is the same that I was upon in 1770, when I had thesecond view of the Strait: We then built a tower, with the stones we foundthere, which we now saw had been levelled to the ground; no doubt by thenatives, with a view of finding something hid in it. When we returned fromthe hill, we found a number of them collected round our boat. After someexchanges, and making them some presents, we embarked, in order to returnon board; and, in our way, visited others of the inhabitants, by whom wewere kindly received. 

Our friends, the natives, employed themselves on the 17th in fishing in ourneighbourhood; and, as fast as they caught the fish, came and disposed ofthem to us; insomuch that we had more than we could make use of. From thisday to the 22d nothing remarkable happened, and we were occupied in gettingevery thing in readiness to put to sea, being resolved to wait no longerthan the assigned time for the Adventure. 

The winds were between the south and west, stormy with rain till the 23d, when the weather became settled, clear, and pleasant. Very early in themorning, we were visited by a number of the natives, in four or fivecanoes, very few of whom we had seen before. They brought with them variousarticles (curiosities), which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. Atfirst, the exchanges were very much in our favour, till an old man, who wasno stranger to us, came and assisted his countrymen with his advice; which, in a moment, turned the trade above a thousand per cent, against us. [6]

After these people were gone, I took four hogs (that is, three sows and oneboar), two cocks and two hens, which I landed in the bottom of the WestBay; carrying them a little way into the woods, where we left them with asmuch food as would serve them ten or twelve days. This was done with a viewof keeping them in the woods, lest they should come down to the shore insearch of food, and be discovered by the natives; which, however, seemednot probable, as this place had never been frequented by them; nor were anytraces of them to be seen near it. We also left some cocks and hens in thewoods in Ship Cove; but these will have a chance of falling into the handsof the natives, whose wandering way of life will hinder them from breeding, even suppose they should be taken proper care of. Indeed, they took rathertoo much care of those which I had already given them, by keeping themcontinually confined, for fear of losing them in the woods. The sow pig wehad not seen since the day they had her from me; but we were now told shewas still living, as also the old boar and sow given them by CaptainFurneaux; so that there is reason to hope they may succeed. It will beunfortunate, indeed, if every method I have taken, to provide this countrywith useful animals, should be frustrated. We were likewise told, that thetwo goats were still alive, and running about; but I gave more credit tothe first story than this. I should have replaced them, by leaving behindthe only two I had left, but had the misfortune to lose the ram soon afterour arrival here, in a manner we could hardly account for. They were bothput ashore at the tents, where they seemed to thrive very well; at last, the ram was taken with fits bordering on madness. We were at a loss to tellwhether it was occasioned by any thing he had eaten, or by being stung withnettles, which were in plenty about the place; but supposed it to be thelatter, and therefore did not take the care of him we ought to have done. One night, while he was lying by the centinel, he was seized with one ofthese fits, and ran headlong into the sea; but soon came out again, andseemed quite easy. Presently after, he was seized with another fit, and ranalong the beach, with the she-goat after him. Some time after she returned, but the other was never seen more. Diligent search was made for him in thewoods to no purpose; we therefore supposed he had run into the sea a secondtime, and had been drowned. After this accident, it would have been in vainto leave the she-goat, as she was not with kid; having kidded but a fewdays before we arrived, and the kids dead. Thus the reader will see howevery method I have taken to stock this country with sheep and goats hasproved ineffectual. 

When I returned on board in the evening, I found our good friends thenatives had brought us a large supply of fish. Some of the officersvisiting them at their habitations, saw, among them, some human thigh-bones, from which the flesh had been but lately picked. This, and othercircumstances, led us to believe that the people, whom we took forstrangers this morning, were of the same tribe; that they had been out onsome war expedition; and that those things they sold us, were the spoils oftheir enemies. Indeed, we had some information of this sort the day before;for a number of women and children came off to us in a canoe, from whom welearnt that a party of men were then out, for whose safety they were undersome apprehension; but this report found little credit with us, as we soonafter saw some canoes come in from fishing, which we judged to be them. 

Having now got the ship in a condition for sea, and to encounter thesouthern latitudes, I ordered the tents to be struck, and every thing to begot on board. 

The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom, someof them found a private hut of the natives, in which was deposited most ofthe treasure they had received from us, as well as some other articles oftheir own. It is very probable some were set to watch this hut; as, soonafter it was discovered, they came and took all away. But missing somethings, they told our people they had stolen them; and in the evening, cameand made their complaint to me, pitching upon one of the party as theperson who had committed the theft. Having ordered this man to be punishedbefore them, they went away seemingly satisfied; although they did notrecover any of the things they had lost, nor could I by any means find outwhat had become of them; though nothing was more certain, than thatsomething had been stolen by some of the party, if not by the very man thenatives had pitched upon. It was ever a maxim with me, to punish the leastcrimes any of my people committed against these uncivilized nations. Theirrobbing us with impunity is, by no means, a sufficient reason why we shouldtreat them in the same manner, a conduct, we see, they themselves cannotjustify: They found themselves injured, and sought for redress in a legalway. The best method, in my opinion, to preserve a good understanding withsuch people, is, first, by shewing them the use of firearms, to convincethem of the superiority they give you over them, and then to be always uponyour guard. When once they are sensible of these things, a regard for theirown safety will deter them from disturbing you, or from being unanimous informing any plan to attack you; and strict honesty, and gentle treatment onyour part, will make it their interest not to do it. 

Calm or light airs from the north all day on the 23d, hindered us fromputting to sea as intended. [7] In the afternoon, some of the officers wenton shore to amuse themselves among the natives, where they saw the head andbowels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach; and theheart stuck on a forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of thelargest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head, and brought it onboard, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of thenatives, before all the officers and most of the men. I was on shore atthis time, but soon after returning on board, was informed of the abovecircumstances; and found the quarter-deck crowded with the natives, and themangled head, or rather part of it, (for the under-jaw and lip werewanting) lying on the tafferal. The skull had been broken on the leftside, just above the temples; and the remains of the face had all theappearance of a youth under twenty. [8]

The sight of the head, and the relation of the above circumstances, struckme with horror, and filled my mind with indignation against thesecannibals. Curiosity, however, got the better of my indignation, especiallywhen I considered that it would avail but little; and being desirous ofbecoming an eye-witness of a fact which many doubted, I ordered a piece ofthe flesh to be broiled and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of thesecannibals eat it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect on someof our people as to make them sick. Oedidee (who came on board with me) wasso affected with the sight as to become perfectly motionless, and seemed asif metamorphosed into the statue of horror. It is utterly impossible forart to describe that passion with half the force that it appeared in hiscountenance. When roused from this state by some of us, he burst intotears; continued to weep and scold by turns; told them they were vile men;and that he neither was, nor would be any longer their friend. He evenwould not suffer them to touch him; he used the same language to one of thegentlemen who cut off the flesh; and refused to accept, or even touch theknife with which it was done. Such was Oedidee's indignation against thevile custom; and worthy of imitation by every rational being. 

I was not able to find out the reason for their undertaking thisexpedition; all I could understand for certain was, that they went fromhence into Admiralty Bay (the next inlet to the west), and there foughtwith their enemies, many of whom they killed. They counted to me fifty; anumber which exceeded probability, as they were not more, if so many, themselves. I think I understood them clearly, that this youth was killedthere; and not brought away prisoner, and afterwards killed. Nor could Ilearn that they had brought away any more than this one; which increasedthe improbability of their having killed so many. We had also reason tothink that they did not come off without loss; for a young woman was seen, more than once, to cut herself, as is the custom when they lose a friend orrelation. 

That the New Zealanders are cannibals, can now no longer be doubted. Theaccount given of this in my former voyage, being partly founded oncircumstances, was, as I afterwards understood, discredited by manypersons. Few consider what a savage man is in his natural state, and evenafter he is, in some degree, civilized. The New Zealanders are certainly insome state of civilization; their behaviour to us was manly and mild, shewing, on all occasions, a readiness to oblige. They have some arts amongthem which they execute with great judgment and unwearied patience; theyare far less addicted to thieving than the other islanders of the SouthSea; and I believe those in the same tribe, or such as are at peace onewith another, are strictly honest among themselves. This custom of eatingtheir enemies slain in battle (for I firmly believe they eat the flesh ofno others) has undoubtedly been handed down to them from the earliesttimes; and we know it is not an easy matter to wean a nation from theirancient customs, let them be ever so inhuman and savage; especially if thatnation has no manner of connexion or commerce with strangers. For it is bythis that the greatest part of the human race has been civilized; anadvantage which the New Zealanders, from their situation, never had. Anintercourse with foreigners would reform their manners, and polish theirsavage minds. Or, were they more united under a settled form of government, they would have fewer enemies, consequently this custom would be less inuse, and might in time be in a manner forgotten. At present, they have butlittle idea of treating others as themselves would _wish_ to betreated, but treat them as they _expect_ to be treated. If I rememberright, one of the arguments they made use of to Tupia, who frequentlyexpostulated with them against this custom, was, that there could be noharm in killing and eating the man who would do the same by them if it wasin his power. "For, " said they, "can there be any harm in eating ourenemies, whom we have killed in battle? Would not those very enemies havedone the same to us?" I have often seen them listen to Tupia with greatattention; but I never found his arguments have any weight with them, orthat with all his rhetoric, he could persuade any one of them that thiscustom was wrong. And when Oedidee, and several of our people, shewed theirabhorrence of it, they only laughed at them. 

Among many reasons which I have heard assigned for the prevalence of thishorrid custom, the want of animal food has been one; but how far this isdeducible either from facts or circumstances, I shall leave those to findout who advanced it. In every part of New Zealand where I have been, fishwas in such plenty, that the natives generally caught as much as servedboth themselves and us. They have also plenty of dogs; nor is there anywant of wild fowl, which they know very well how to kill. So that neitherthis, nor the want of food of any kind, can, in my opinion, be the reason. But, whatever it may be, I think it was but too evident, that they have agreat liking for this kind of food. [9]

I must here observe, that Oedidee soon learnt to converse with thesepeople, as I am persuaded, he would have done with the people of Amsterdam, had he been a little longer with them; for he did not understand the NewZealanders, at first, any more, or not so much, as he understood the peopleof Amsterdam. 

At four o'clock in the morning, on the 24th, we unmoored with an intent toput to sea; but the wind being at N. And N. E. Without, and blowing strongpuffs into the cove, made it necessary for us to lie fast. While we wereunmooring, some of our old friends came on board to take their leave of us, and afterwards left the cove with all their effects; but those who had beenout on the late expedition remained; and some of the gentlemen havingvisited them, found the heart still sticking on the canoe, and theintestines lying on the beach; but the liver and lungs were now wanting. Probably they had eaten them, after the carcase was all gone. 

On the 25th, early in the morning, we weighed, with a small, breeze out ofthe cove, which carried us no farther than between Motuara and Long Island, where we were obliged to anchor; but presently after a breeze springing upat north, we weighed again, turned out of the Sound, and stood over forCape Teerawhitte. 

During our stay in the Sound, we were plentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a very easy rate; and, besides the vegetablesour own gardens afforded, we found every where plenty of scurvy grass andcellery, which I caused to be dressed every day for all hands. By thismeans, they had been mostly on a fresh diet for the three preceding months;and at this time, we had neither a sick nor scorbutic man on board. It isnecessary to mention, for the information of others, that we had now somepork on board, salted at Ulietea, and as good as any I ever eat. The mannerin which we cured it, was this: In the cool of the evening the hogs werekilled, dressed, cut up, the bones cut out, and the flesh salted while itwas yet hot. The next morning we gave it a second salting, packed it into acask, and put to it a sufficient quantity of strong pickle. Great care isto be taken that the meat be well covered with pickle, otherwise it willsoon spoil. 

The morning before we sailed, I wrote a memorandum, setting forth the timewe last arrived, the day we sailed, the route I intended to take, and suchother information as I thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case heshould put into the Sound; and buried it in a bottle under the root of atree in the garden, which is in the bottom of the cove, in such a manner asmust be found by him or any other European who might put into the cove. I, however, had little reason to hope it would fall into the hands of theperson for whom it was intended, thinking it hardly possible that theAdventure could be in any port in New Zealand, as we had not heard of herall this time. Nevertheless I was resolved not to leave the coast withoutlooking for her, where I thought it most likely for her to be. It was withthis view that I stood over for Cape Teerawhitte, and afterwards ran along-shore, from point to point, to Cape Palliser, firing guns every half hour;but all to no effect. At eight o'clock we brought-to for the night, CapePalliser bearing S. E. By E. Distant three leagues; in which situation wehad fifty fathoms water. 

I had now an opportunity of making the following remarks on the coastbetween Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser: The bay which lies on the westside of the last Cape, does not appear to run so far inland to thenorthward as I at first thought; the deception being caused by the land inthe bottom of it being low: It is, however, at least five leagues deep, andfull as wide at the entrance. Though it seems to be exposed to southerlyand S. W. Winds, it is probable there may be places in the bottom of itsheltered even from these. The bay or inlet, on the east side of CapeTeerawhitte, before which we anchored, lies in north, inclining to thewest, and seemed to be sheltered from all winds. The middle cape, or pointof land that disjoins these two bays, rises to a considerable height, especially inland; for close to the sea is a skirt of low land, off whichlie some pointed rocks, but so near to the shore as to be noways dangerous. Indeed, the navigation of this side of the Strait seems much safer than theother, because the tides here are not near so strong. Cape Teerawhitte andCape Palliser lie in the direction of N. 69° W. , and S. 69° east, from eachother distant ten leagues. The cape which disjoins the two bays above-mentioned lies within, or north of this direction. All the land near thecoast, between and about these capes, is exceedingly barren; probably owingto its being so much exposed to the cold southerly winds. From CapeTeerawhitte to the Two Brothers, which lie off Cape Koamoroo, the course isnearly N. W. By N. Distant sixteen miles. North of Cape Teerawhitte, betweenit and Entry Island, is an island lying pretty near the shore. I judgedthis to be an island when I saw it in my former voyage, but not beingcertain, left it undetermined in my chart of the Strait, which is thereason of my taking notice of it now, as also of the bays, &c. Above-mentioned. 

At day-light in the morning on the 26th, we made sail round Cape Palliser, firing guns as usual, as we ran along the shore. In this manner weproceeded till we were three or four leagues to the N. E. Of the Cape; whenthe wind shifted to N. E. , we bore away for Cape Campbell on the other sideof the Strait. Soon after, seeing a smoke ascend, at some distance inland, away to the N. E, we hauled the wind, and continued to ply till six o'clockin the evening; which was several hours after the smoke disappeared, andleft us not the least signs of people. 

Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither bestranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, I gave uplooking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage, as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. Nevertheless, this did not discourage me from fully exploring the southernparts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I intended to employ thewhole of the ensuing season. 

On our quitting the coast, and consequently all hopes of being joined byour consort, I had the satisfaction to find that not a man was dejected, orthought the dangers we had yet to go through, were in the least increasedby being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding to the south, or wherever Imight think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure, or even more ships, had been in our company. [10]

 [1] "They expressed great satisfaction at our calling them by their names, doubtless because it served to persuade them that we were particularly concerned for their welfare, by retaining them in memory. The weather was fair and warm, considering the season, but our New Zealanders were all covered with shaggy cloaks, which are their winter dresses. "--G. F. 

 [2] "We found almost all the radishes and turnips shot into seed, the cabbages and carrots very fine, and abundance of onions and parsley in good order; the pease and beans were almost entirely lost, and seemed to have been destroyed by rats. The potatoes were likewise all extirpated; but, from appearances, we guessed this to have been the work of the natives. The thriving state of our European pot-herbs, gave us a strong and convincing proof of the mildness of the winter in this part of New Zealand, where it seems it had never frozen hard enough to kill these plants, which perish in our winters. The indigenous plants of this country were not yet so forward; the deciduous trees and shrubs, in particular, were but just beginning to look green, and the vivid colour of their fresh leaves well contrasted with the dark wintery hue of the evergreens. The flag, of which the natives prepare their hemp, was, however, in flower, together with some other early species. "--G. F. 

 [3] "The weather, during this time, was as boisterous and inconstant, as that which had so long kept us out of this harbour. Scarce a day passed without heavy squalls of wind, which hurried down with redoubled velocity from the mountains, and strong showers of rain, which retarded all our occupations. The air was commonly cold and raw, vegetation made slow advances, and the birds were only found in vallies sheltered from the chilling southern blast. This kind of weather, in all likelihood, prevails throughout the winter, and likewise far into the midst of summer, without a much greater degree of cold in the former, or of warmth in the latter season. Islands far remote from any continent, or at least not situated near a cold one, seem in general to have an uniform temperature of air, owing, perhaps, to the nature of the ocean, which every where surrounds them. It appears from the meteorological journals, kept at Port Egmont, on the Falkland Islands, (inserted in Mr Dalrymple's collection) that the extremes of the greatest cold, and the greatest heat, observed there throughout the year, do not exceed thirty degrees on Fahrenheit's scale. The latitude of that port is 51° 25' S. ; and that of Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound, only 41° 5'. This considerable difference of site will naturally make the climate of New Zealand much milder than that of Falkland's Islands, but cannot affect the general hypothesis concerning the temperature of all islands; and the immense height of the mountains in New Zealand, some of which are covered with snow throughout the year, doubtless contributes to refrigerate the air, so as to assimilate it to that of the Falkland's Islands, which are not so high. "--G. F. 

 [4] "In the morning, the weather being clear again, Dr Sparrman, my father, and myself, went to the Indian Cove, which we found uninhabited. A path, made by the natives, led through the forest a considerable way up the steep mountain, which separates this cove from Shag Cove. The only motive which could induce the New Zealanders to make this path, appeared to be the abundance of ferns towards the summit of the mountain, the roots of that plant being an article of their diet. The steepest part of the path was cut in steps, paved with shingle or slate, but beyond that the climbers impeded our progress considerably. About half way up, the forest ended, and the rest was covered with various shrubs and ferns, though it appeared to be naked and barren from the ship. At the summit we met with many plants which grow in the vallies, and by the sea-side, at Dusky Bay, owing to the difference of the climate, which is so much more vigorous in that southern extremity of New Zealand. The whole to the very top consists of the same talcous clay, which is universal all over the island, and of a talcous stone, which, when exposed to the sun and air, crumbles in pieces, and dissolves into lamellae. Its colour is whitish, greyish, and sometimes tinged with a dirty yellowish-red, perhaps owing to irony particles. The south side of the mountain is clad in forests, almost to the summit. The view from hence was very extensive and pleasing: We looked into East Bay as into a fish-pond, and saw Cape Tera-wittee beyond the Strait. The mountains in the south arose to a vast height, and were capt with snow; and the whole prospect on that side was wild and chaotic. "--G. F. 

 [5] "Our sailors carried on their former amours with the women, amongst whom there was but one who had tolerable features, and something soft and humane in her looks. She was regularly given in marriage by her parents to one of our ship-mates, who was particularly beloved by this nation, for devoting much of his time to them, and treating them with those marks of affection, which, even among a savage race, endear mankind to one another. Togheeree, for so the girl was called, proved as faithful to her husband as if he had been a New Zealander, and constantly rejected the addresses of other seamen, professing herself a married woman, (_tirratane_. ) Whatever attachment the Englishman had to his New Zealand wife, he never attempted to take her on board, foreseeing that it would be highly inconvenient to lodge the numerous retinue which crowded in her garments, and weighed down the hair of her head. He, therefore, visited her on shore, and only day by day, treating her with plenty of the rotten part of our biscuit, which we rejected, But which she and all her countrymen eagerly devoured. "--G. F. 

 [6] "They were more dressed than we had commonly seen any, during this second stay, at Queen Charlotte's Sound; their hair was tied up, and their cheeks painted red. All these circumstances conspired to confirm the account which the women had given us the day before, that their husbands were gone to fight, as it is usual for them to put on their best apparel on those occasions. I am much afraid that their unhappy differences with other tribes, were revived on our account. Our people, not satisfied with purchasing all the hatchets of stone, &c. &c. Of which the natives of our acquaintance were possessed, continually enquired for more, and shewed them such large and valuable pieces of Otaheite cloth, as would not fail to excite their desires. It is not improbable, that as soon as this appetite prevailed among the New Zealanders, they would reflect that the shortest way to gratify it, would be to rob their neighbours of such goods, as the Europeans coveted. The great store of arms, ornaments, and clothes, which they produced at this time, seemed to prove, that such a daring and villainous design had really been put in execution; nor was it to be supposed that this could have been accomplished without bloodshed. "--G. F. 

 [7] An instance of the ferocity of manners of this savage nation, was presented this day. A boy, about six or seven years old, demanded a piece of broiled penguin, which his mother held in her hands. As she did not immediately comply with his demand, he took up a large stone and threw it at her. The woman, incensed at this action, ran to punish him, but she had scarcely given him a single blow, when her husband came forward, beat her unmercifully, and dashed her against the ground, for attempting to correct her unnatural child. Our people, who were employed in filling water, told my father they had frequently seen similar instances of cruelty among them, and particularly, that the boys had actually struck their unhappy mother, whilst the father looked on lest she should attempt to retaliate. Among all savage nations the weaker sex is ill-treated, and the law of the strongest is put in force. Their women are mere drudges, who prepare raiment and provide dwellings, who cook and frequently collect their food, and are requited by blows, and all kinds of severity. At New Zealand, it seems they carry this tyranny to excess, and the males are taught, from their earliest age, to hold their mothers in contempt, contrary to all our principles of morality. "--G. F. 

 Mr Forster immediately goes on to relate the remainder of this day's occurrences, so painfully pregnant in discoveries relative to this savage people. The reader, it is believed, will think the account in the text abundantly minute, without any addition. What a fine specimen to prove the accuracy of Rousseau's delineation of our species, in its uncontaminated state!--E. 

 [8] Mr G. Forster informs us, that Mr Pickersgill purchased the head from the savages for a nail, and that it was afterwards deposited in the collection of Mr John Hunter. He adds, that some of these people expressed an ardent desire of repossessing it, signifying, by the most intelligible gestures, that it was delicious to the taste. This strongly corroborates what Captain Cook afterwards states, of their really relishing such kind of food. --E. 

 [9] This distressing subject has, perhaps, already too much engrossed the reader's attention and feelings; and, unfortunately, it must again be brought before him, when we treat of the third voyage of Cook. He might think then, that at present, he ought to be spared farther comment on what is so odious; but neither the apprehension, nor the experience of the unpleasant impressions it produces, is sufficient reason for declining the consideration of the atrocities of which human nature is capable. Self-conceit, indeed, may be mortified at the unavoidable thought of identity of species, which it may seek many imaginary devices to conceal; and feverish sensibility may be wrought up to indignant discontent, at the power which placed it amid such profligacy. But the humble philosopher, on the other hand, will investigate the causes, without ceasing to deplore the effects, and will rejoice in the belief, that there are any means by which mankind may be redeemed from the condemnation which his judgment cannot fail to award. To him, accordingly, the following observations of Mr G. Forster are addressed, as preparatory to the farther consideration of the subject, in which he will afterwards be engaged. "Philosophers, who have only contemplated mankind in their closets, have strenuously maintained, that all the assertions of authors, ancient and modern, of the existence of men-eaters, are not to be credited; and there have not been wanting persons amongst ourselves who were sceptical enough to refuse belief to the concurrent testimonies, in the history of almost all nations, in this particular. But Captain Cook had already, in his former voyage, received strong proof that the practice of eating human flesh existed in New Zealand; and as now we have with our own eyes seen the inhabitants devouring human flesh, all controversy on that point must be at an end. The opinions of authors on the origin of this custom, are infinitely various, and have lately been collected by the very learned canon, Pauw, at Xanten, in his _Recherches Philosophiques sur les Americains_, vol. I, p. 207. He seems to think that men were first tempted to devour each other from real want of food, and cruel necessity. His sentiments are copied by Dr Hawkesworth, who has disingenuously concealed their author. Many weighty objections, however, may be made against this hypothesis; amongst which the following is one of the greatest. There are very few countries in the world so miserably barren as not to afford their inhabitants sufficient nourishment, and those, in particular, where anthropophagi still exist, do not come under that description. The northern isle of New Zealand, on a coast of near four hundred leagues, contains scarcely one hundred thousand inhabitants, according to the most probable guess which can be made; a number inconsiderable for that vast space of country, even allowing the settlements to be confined only to the sea-shore. The great abundance of fish, and the beginnings of agriculture in the Bay of Plenty, and other parts of the Northern Isle, are more than sufficient to maintain this number, because they have always had enough to supply strangers with what was deemed superfluous. It is true, before the dawn of the arts among them, before the invention of nets, and before the cultivation of potatoes, the means of subsistence may have been more difficult, but then the number of inhabitants must likewise have been infinitely smaller. Single instances are not conclusive in this case, though they prove how far the wants cf the body may stimulate mankind to extraordinary actions. In 1772, during a famine which happened throughout all Germany, a herdsman was taken on the manor of Baron Boineburg, in Hessia, who had been urged by hunger to kill and devour a boy, and afterwards to make a practice of it for several months. From his confession, it appeared, that he looked upon the flesh of young children as a very delicious food; and the gestures of the New Zealanders indicated exactly the same thing. An old woman, in the province of Matogrosso, in Brazil, declared to the Portuguese governor, M. De Pinto, afterwards ambassador at the British court, that she had eaten human flesh several times, liked it very much, and should be very glad to feast upon it again, especially if it was part of a little boy. But it would be absurd to suppose from such circumstances, that killing men for the sake of feasting upon them, has ever been the spirit of a whole nation; because it is utterly incompatible with the existence of society. Slight causes have ever produced the most remarkable events among mankind, and the most trifling quarrels have fired their minds with incredible inveteracy against each other. Revenge has always been a strong passion among barbarians, who are less subject to the sway of reason, than civilized people, and has stimulated them to a degree of madness, which is capable of all kinds of excesses. The people who first consumed the body of their enemies, seem to have been bent upon exterminating their very inanimate remains, from an excess of passion; but, by degrees, finding the meat wholesome and palatable, it is not to be wondered at that they should make a practice of eating their enemies as often as they killed any, since the action of eating human flesh, whatever our education may teach us to the contrary, is certainly neither unnatural nor criminal in itself. It can only become dangerous as far as it steels the mind against that compassionate fellow-feeling, which is the great basis of society; and for this reason, we find it naturally banished from every people as soon as civilization has made any progress among them. But though we are too much polished to be cannibals, we do not find it unnaturally and savagely cruel to take the field, and to cut one another's throats by thousands, without a single motive, besides the ambition of a prince, or the caprice of his mistress! Is it not from prejudice that we are disgusted with the idea of eating a dead man, when we feel no remorse in depriving him of life? If the practice of eating human flesh makes men unfeeling and brutal, we have instances that civilized people, who would, perhaps, like some of our sailors, have turned sick at the thought of eating human flesh, have committed barbarities, without example, amongst cannibals. A New Zealander, who kills and eats his enemy, is a very different being from an European, who, for his amusement, tears an infant from the mother's breast, in cool blood, and throws it on the earth, to feed his hounds, --an atrocious crime, which Bishop Las Casas says, he saw committed in America by Spanish soldiers. The New Zealanders never eat their adversaries unless they are killed in battle; they never kill their relations for the purpose of eating them; they do not even eat them if they die of a natural death, and they take no prisoners with a view to fatten them for their repast; though these circumstances have been related, with more or less truth, of the American Indians. It is therefore not improbable, that in process of time, they will entirely lay aside this custom; and the introduction of new domestic animals into their country might hasten that period, since greater affluence would tend to make them more sociable. Their religion does not seem likely to be an obstacle, because from what we could judge, they are not remarkably superstitious, and it is only among very bigotted nations that the custom of offering human flesh to the gods, has prevailed after civilization. "--These are evidently hasty speculations, and by no means conclusive, but they point with tolerable clearness to some principle of human nature adequate, independent of necessity, to account for the practice, and shew in what manner the investigation into its nature, causes, and remedy, ought to be carried on. --E. 

 [10] "The officers and passengers entered upon this second cruise under several difficulties, which did not exist before. They had now no livestock to be compared to that which they took from the Cape of Good Hope; and the little store of provisions, which had supplied their table with variety in preference to that of the common sailor, was now so far consumed, that they were nearly upon a level, especially as the seamen were inured to that way of life, by constant habit, almost from their infancy; and the others had never experienced it before. The hope of meeting with new lands was vanished, the topics of common conversation were exhausted, the cruise to the south could not present any thing new, but appeared in all its chilling horrors before us, and the absence of our consort doubled every danger. We had enjoyed a few agreeable days between the tropics, we had feasted as well as the produce of various islands would permit, and we had been entertained with the novelty of many objects among different nations; but according to the common vicissitudes of fortune, this agreeable moment was to be replaced by a long period of fogs and frosty weather, of fasting, and of tedious uniformity. If any thing alleviated the dreariness of the prospect, with a great part of our shipmates, it was the hope of completing the circle round the South Pole, in a high latitude, during the next inhospitable summer, and of returning to England within the space of eight months. This hope contributed to animate the spirits of our people during the greatest part of our continuance in bad weather; but in the end it vanished like a dream, and the only thought which could make them amends, was the certainty of passing another season among the happy islands in the torrid zone. "--G. F. 

SECTION VI. 

_Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; with anAccount of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the Methodspursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean. _

AT eight o'clock in the evening of the 26th, we took our departure fromCape Palliser, and steered to the south, inclining to the east, having afavourable gale from the N. W. And S. W. We daily saw some rock-weeds, seals, Port Egmont hens, albatrosses, pintadoes, and other peterels; and on the 2dof December, being in the latitude of 48° 23' south, longitude 179° 16'west, we saw a number of red-billed penguins, which remained about us forseveral days. On the 5th, being in the latitude 50° 17' south, longitude179° 40' east, the variation was 18° 25' east. At half an hour past eighto'clock the next evening, we reckoned ourselves antipodes to our friends inLondon, consequently as far removed from them as possible. [1]

On the 8th, being in the latitude 55° 39', longitude 178° 53' west, weceased to see penguins and seals, and concluded that those we had seen, retired to the southern parts of New Zealand, whenever it was necessary forthem to be at land. We had now a strong gale at N. W. , and a great swellfrom S. W. This swell we got as soon as the south point of New Zealand camein that direction; and as we had had no wind from that quarter the sixpreceding days, but, on the contrary, it had been at east, north, and N. W. , I conclude there can be no land to the southward, under the meridian of NewZealand, but what must lie very far to the south. The two following days wehad very stormy weather, sleet and snow, winds between the north and south-west. 

The 11th the storm abated, and the weather clearing up, we found thelatitude to be 61° 15' south, longitude 173° 4' W. This fine weather was ofshort duration; in the evening, the wind increased to a strong gale at S. W. , blew in squalls, attended with thick snow showers, hail, and sleet. Themercury in the thermometer fell to thirty-two; consequently the weather wasvery cold, and seemed to indicate that ice was not far off. [2]

At four o'clock the next morning, being in the latitude of 62° 10' south, longitude 172° west, we saw the first ice island, 11° 1/2 farther souththan the first ice we saw the preceding year after leaving the Cape of GoodHope. At the time we saw this ice, we also saw an antarctic peterel, somegrey albatrosses, and our old companions pintadoes and blue peterels. Thewind kept veering from S. W. By the N. W. To N. N. E. For the most part afresh gale, attended with a thick haze and snow; on which account westeered to the S. E. And E. , keeping the wind always on the beam, that itmight be in our power to return back nearly on the same track, should ourcourse have been interrupted by any danger whatever. For some days we had agreat sea from the N. W. And S. W. , so that it is not probable there can beany land near, between these two points. 

We fell in with several large islands on the 14th, and about noon, with aquantity of loose ice, through which we sailed. Latitude 64° 55' south, longitude 163° 20' west. Grey albatrosses, blue peterels, pintadoes, andfulmers, were seen. As we advanced to the S. E. By E. With a fresh gale atwest, we found the number of ice islands increase fast upon us. Betweennoon and eight in the evening we saw but two; but before four o'clock inthe morning of the 15th, we had passed seventeen, besides a quantity ofloose ice which we ran through. At six o'clock, we were obliged to haul tothe N. E. , in order to clear an immense field that lay to the south and S. E. The ice, in most part of it, lay close packed together; in other places, there appeared partitions in the field, and a clear sea beyond it. However, I did not think it safe to venture through, as the wind would not permit usto return the same way that we must go in. Besides, as it blew strong, andthe weather at times was exceedingly foggy, it was the more necessary forus to get clear of this loose ice, which is rather more dangerous than thegreat islands. It was not such ice as is usually found in bays or riversand near shore; but such as breaks off from the islands, and may notimproperly be called parings of the large pieces, or the rubbish orfragments which fall off when the great islands break loose from the placewhere they are formed. [3]

We had not stood long to the N. E. Before we found ourselves embayed by theice, and were obliged to tack and stretch to the S. W. , having the field, or loose ice, to the south, and many huge islands to the north. Afterstanding two hours on this tack, the wind very luckily veering to thewestward, we tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear of theloose ice; but not before we had received several hard knocks from thelarger pieces, which, with all our care, we could not avoid. After clearingone danger we still had another to encounter; the weather remained foggy, and many large islands lay in our way; so that we had to luff for one, andbear up for another. One we were very near falling aboard of, and, if ithad happened, this circumstance would never have been related. [4] Thesedifficulties, together with the improbability of finding land farthersouth, and the impossibility of exploring it, on account of the ice, if weshould find any, determined me to get more to the north. At the time welast tacked, we were in the longitude of 159° 20' W. , and in the latitudeof 66° 0' S. Several penguins were seen on some of these islands, and a fewantarctic peterels on the wing. 

We continued to stand to the north, with a fresh gale at west, attendedwith thick snow showers, till eight o'clock in the evening, when the windabated, the sky began to clear up, and at six o'clock in the morning of the16th it fell calm. Four hours after, it was succeeded by a breeze at N. E. With which we stretched to the S. E. , having thick hazy weather, with snowshowers, and all our rigging coated with ice. In the evening, we attemptedto take some up out of the sea, but were obliged to desist; the sea runningtoo high, and the pieces being so large, that it was dangerous for the boatto come near them. 

The next morning, being the 17th, we succeeded better; for, falling in witha quantity of loose ice, we hoisted out two boats; and by noon got on boardas much as we could manage. We then made sail for the east, with a gentlebreeze northerly, attended with snow and sleet, which froze to the riggingas it fell. At this time we were in the latitude of 64° 41' south, longitude 155° 44' west. The ice we took up proved to be none of the best, being chiefly composed of frozen snow; on which account it was porous, andhad imbibed a good deal of salt water; but this drained off, after lying awhile on deck, and the water then yielded was fresh. We continued tostretch to the east, with a piercing cold northerly wind, attended with athick fog, snow, and sleet, that decorated all our rigging with icicles. Wewere hourly meeting with some of the large ice islands, which, in thesehigh latitudes, render navigation so very dangerous: At seven in theevening, falling in with a cluster of them, we narrowly escaped runningaboard of one, and, with difficulty, wore clear of the others. We stoodback to the west till ten o'clock; at which time the fog cleared away, andwe resumed our course to the east. At noon, the next day, we were in thelatitude of 64° 49' S. , longitude 149° 19' W. Some time after, ourlongitude, by observed distance of the sun and moon, was 149° 19' W. ; by MrKendal's watch 148° 36'; and, by my reckoning, 148° 43', latitude 64° 48'S. 

The clear weather, and the wind veering to N. W. , tempted me to steer south;which course we continued till seven in the morning of the 20th, when thewind changing to N. E. And the sky becoming clouded, we hauled up S. E. Inthe afternoon the wind increased to a strong gale, attended with a thickfog, snow, sleet, and rain, which constitutes the very worst of weather. Our rigging, at this time, was so loaded with ice, that we had enough to doto get our topsails down, to double the reef. At seven o'clock in theevening, in the longitude of 147° 46', we came, the second time, within theantarctic or polar circle, continuing our course to the S. E. Till sixo'clock the next morning. At that time, being in the latitude of 67° 5' S. , all at once we got in among a cluster of very large ice islands, and a vastquantity of loose pieces; and as the fog was exceedingly thick, it was withthe utmost difficulty we wore clear of them. This done, we stood to theN. W. Till noon, when, the fog being somewhat dissipated, we resumed ourcourse again to the S. E. The ice islands we met with in the morning werevery high and rugged, forming at their tops, many peaks; whereas the mostof those we had seen before, were flat at top, and not so high; though manyof them were between two and three hundred feet in height, and between twoand three miles in circuit, with perpendicular cliffs or sides, astonishingto behold. [5] Most or our winged companions had now left us; the greyalbatrosses only remained; and, instead of the other birds, we were visitedby a few antarctic peterels. 

The 22d we steered E. S. E. With a fresh gale at north, blowing in squalls, one of which took hold of the mizen top-sail, tore it all to rags, andrendered it forever after useless. At six o'clock in the morning, the windveering towards the west, our course was east northerly. At this time wewere in the latitude of 67° 31', the highest we had yet been in, longitude142° 54' W. 

We continued our course to the E. By N. Till noon, the 23d, when being inthe latitude of 67° 12', longitude 138° 0', we steered S. E. ; having thentwenty-three ice islands in sight, from off the deck, and twice that numberfrom the mast-head; and yet we could not see above two or three miles roundus. At four o'clock in the afternoon, in the latitude of 67° 20', longitude137° 12', we fell in with such a quantity of field, or loose ice, ascovered the sea in the whole extent from south to east, and was so thickand close as wholly to obstruct our passage. At this time, the wind beingpretty moderate, and the sea smooth, we brought-to, at the outer edge ofthe ice, hoisted out two boats, and sent them to take some up. In the meantime, we laid hold of several large pieces along-side, and got them onboard with our tackle. The taking up ice proved such cold work, that it waseight o'clock by the time the boats had made two trips, when we hoistedthem in, and made sail to the west, under double-reefed top-sails andcourses, with a strong gale at north, attended with snow and sleet, whichfroze to the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires, and the sailslike boards or plates of metal. The sheaves also were frozen so fast in theblocks, that it required our utmost efforts to get a top-sail down and up;the cold so intense as hardly to be endured; the whole sea, in a manner, covered with ice; a hard gale, and a thick fog. [6]

Under all these unfavourable circumstances, it was natural for me to thinkof returning more to the north; seeing no probability of finding any landhere, nor a possibility of getting farther south. And to have proceeded tothe east in this latitude, must have been wrong, not only on account of theice, but because we must have left a vast space of sea to the northunexplored, a space of 24° of latitude; in which a large tract of landmight have lain. Whether such a supposition was well-grounded, could onlybe determined by visiting those parts. 

While we were taking up ice, we got two of the antarctic peterels so oftenmentioned, by which our conjectures were confirmed of their being of thepeterel tribe. They are about the size of a large pigeon; the feathers ofthe head, back, and part of the upper side of the wings, are of a light-brown; the belly, and under side of the wings white, the tail feathers arealso white, but tipped with brown; at the same time, we got another newpeterel, smaller than the former, and all of a dark-grey plumage. Weremarked that these birds were fuller of feathers than any we had hithertoseen; such care has nature taken to clothe them suitably to the climate inwhich they live. At the same time we saw a few chocolate-colouredalbatrosses; these, as well as the peterels above-mentioned, we no wheresaw but among the ice; hence one may with reason conjecture that there island to the south. If not, I must ask where these birds breed? A questionwhich perhaps will never be determined; for hitherto we have found theselands, if any, quite inaccessible. Besides these birds, we saw a very largeseal, which kept playing about us some time. One of our people who had beenat Greenland, called it a sea-horse; but every one else took it for what Ihave said. Since our first falling in with the ice, the mercury in thethermometer had been from 33 to 31 at noon-day. 

On the 24th, the wind abated, veering to the N. W. , and the sky cleared up, in the latitude of 67° 0' longitude 138° 15'. As we advanced to the N. E. With a gentle gale at N. W. , the ice islands increased so fast upon us, thatthis day, at noon, we could see near 100 round us, besides an immensenumber of small pieces. Perceiving that it was likely to be calm, I got theship into as clear a birth as I could, where she drifted along with theice, and by taking the advantage of every light air of wind, was kept fromfalling aboard any of these floating isles. Here it was we spent Christmasday, much in the same manner as we did the preceding one. We were fortunatein having continual day-light, and clear weather, for had it been as foggyas on some of the preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could havesaved us from being dashed to pieces. [7]

In the morning of the 26th, the whole sea was in a manner covered with ice, 200 large islands, and upwards, being seen within the compass of four orfive miles, which was the limits of our horizon, besides smaller piecesinnumerable. Our latitude at noon was 66° 15', longitude 134° 22'. Byobservation we found that the ship had drifted, or gone about 20 miles tothe N. E. Or E. N. E. ; whereas, by the ice islands, it appeared that she hadgone little or nothing; from which we concluded that the ice drifted nearlyin the same direction, and at the same rate. At four o'clock a breezesprung up at W. S. W. , and enabled us to steer north, the most probablecourse to extricate ourselves from these dangers. 

We continued our course to the north with a gentle breeze at west, attendedwith clear weather, till four o'clock the next morning, when meeting with aquantity of loose ice, we brought-to, and took on board as much as filledall our empty casks, and for several days present expence. This done, wemade sail, and steered N. W. With a gentle breeze at N. E. , clear frostyweather. Our latitude at this time was 65° 53' S. , longitude 133° 42' W. ;islands of ice not half so numerous as before. [8]

At four in the morning of the 28th, the wind having veered more to the E. And S. E. , increased to a fresh gale, and was attended with snow showers. Our course was north till noon the next day. Being then in the latitude of62° 24', longitude 134° 37', we steered N. W. By N. Some hours after, thesky cleared up, and the wind abating, veered more to the south. 

On the 30th, had little wind westerly; dark gloomy weather; with snow andsleet at times; several whales seen playing about the ship, but very fewbirds; islands of ice in plenty, and a swell from W. N. W. 

On the 31st, little wind from the westward, fair and clear weather, whichafforded an opportunity to air the spare sails, and to clean and smoke theship between decks. At noon our latitude was 59° 40' S. , longitude 135° 11'W. Our observation to-day gave us reason to conjecture that we had asoutherly current. Indeed, this was no more than what might reasonably besupposed, to account for such huge masses of ice being brought from thesouth. In the afternoon we had a few hours calm, succeeded by a breeze fromthe east, which enabled us to resume our N. W. By N. Course. [9]

January 1st, the wind remained not long at east, but veered round by thesouth to the west; blew fresh, attended with snow showers. In the evening, being in the latitude of 58° 39' S. , we passed two islands of ice, afterwhich we saw no more till we stood again to the south. 

At five o'clock in the morning on the 2d, it fell calm; being at this timein the latitude of 58° 2', longitude 137° 12'. The calm being succeeded bya breeze at east, we steered N. W. By W. My reason for steering this course, was to explore part of the great space of sea between us and our track tothe south. 

On the 3d, at noon, being in latitude 56° 46', longitude 139° 45', theweather became fair, and the wind veered to S. W. About this time we saw afew small divers (as we call them) of the peterel tribe, which we judged tobe such as are usually seen near land, especially in the bays, and on thecoast of New Zealand. I cannot tell what to think of these birds; had therebeen more of them, I should have been ready enough to believe that we were, at this time, not very far from land, as I never saw one so far from knownland before. Probably these few had been drawn thus far by some shoal offish; for such were certainly about us, by the vast number of bluepeterels, albatrosses, and such other birds as are usually seen in thegreat ocean; all or most of which left us before night. Two or three piecesof seaweed were also seen, but these appeared old and decayed. 

At eight o'clock in the evening, being in the latitude of 56° S. , longitude140° 31' W. , the wind fixing in the western board, obliged us to steernorth-easterly, and laid me under the necessity of leaving unexplored aspace of the sea to the west, containing near 40° of longitude, and halfthat of latitude. Had the wind continued favourable, I intended to have run15 or 20 degrees of longitude more to the west in the latitude we were thenin, and back again to the east in the latitude of 50°. This route wouldhave so intersected the space above mentioned, as hardly to have left roomfor the bare supposition of any land lying there. Indeed, as it was, wehave little reason to believe that there is; but rather the contrary, fromthe great hollow swell we had had, for several days, from the W. And N. W. , though the wind had blown from a contrary direction great part of the time;which is a great sign we had not been covered by any land between these twopoints. 

While we were in the high latitudes, many of our people were attacked witha slight fever, occasioned by colds. It happily yielded to the simplestremedies; was generally removed in a few days; and, at this time, we hadnot above one or two on the sick list. [10]

We proceeded N. E. By N. Till the 6th, at noon. Being then in the latitudeof 52° 0' S. , longitude 135° 32' W. , and about 200 leagues from our trackto Otaheite, in which space it was not probable, all circumstancesconsidered, there is any extensive land, and it being still less probableany lay to the west, from the great mountainous billows we had had, andstill continued to have, from that quarter, I therefore steered N. E. , witha fresh gale at W. S. W. 

At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 7th, being in the latitude of 50°49' S. , we observed several distances of the sun and moon, which gave thelongitude as follows, viz. 

By Mr. Wales, 133° 24' 0" West. Gilbert, 133 10 0 Clarke, 133 0 0 Smith, 133 37 25 Myself, 133 37 0 ------------- Mean, 133 21 43

 By the Watch, 133 44 0 west. My reckoning, 133 39 0 -------------Variation of the compass, 6 2 0 East. Thermometer, 50 0 0

The next morning we observed again, and the results were agreeable to thepreceding observations, allowing for the ship's run. I must here takenotice, that our longitude can never be erroneous, while we have so good aguide as Mr Kendall's watch. This day, at noon, we steered E. N. E. 1/2 E. , being then in the latitude of 49° 7' S. , longitude 131° 2' W. 

On the 9th, in latitude 48° 17' S. , longitude 127° 10' W. , we steered east, with a fine fresh gale at west, attended with clear pleasant weather, and agreat swell from the same direction as the wind. 

In the morning of the 10th, having but little wind, we put a boat in thewater, in which some of the officers went and shot several birds. Theseafforded us a fresh meal; they were of the peterel tribe, and such as areusually seen at any distance from land. Indeed, neither birds, nor anyother thing was to be seen, that could give us the least hopes of findingany; and, therefore, at noon the next day, being then in the latitude of47° 51' S. , longitude 122° 12' W. , and a little more than 200 leagues frommy track to Otaheite in 1769, I altered the course, and steered S. E. , witha fresh gale at S. W. By W. In the evening, when our latitude was 48° 22'S. , longitude 121° 29' W. , we found the variation to be 2° 34' E. , which isthe least variation we had found without the tropic. In the evening of thenext day, we found it to be 4° 30' E. , our latitude, at that time, was 50°5' S. , longitude 119° 1/2 W. 

Our course was now more southerly, till the evening of the 13th, when wewere in the latitude of 53° 0' S. , longitude 118° 3' W. The wind being thenat N. W. A strong gale with a thick fog and rain, which made it unsafe tosteer large, I hauled up S. W. , and continued this course till noon the nextday, when our latitude was 56° 4' S. , longitude 122° 1' W. The wind havingveered to the north, and the fog continuing, I hauled to the east, undercourses and close-reefed top-sails. But this sail we could not carry long;for before eight o'clock in the evening, the wind increased to a perfectstorm, and obliged us to lie-to, under the mizen-stay-sail, till themorning of the 16th, when the wind having a good deal abated, and veered towest, we set the courses, reefed top-sails, and stood to the south. Soonafter, the weather cleared up, and, in the evening, we found the latitudeto be 56° 48' S. , longitude 119° 8' W. [11] We continued to steer to thesouth, inclining to the east, till the 18th, when we stood to the S. W. , with the wind at S. E. , being at this time in the latitude of 61° 9' S. , longitude 116° 7' W. At ten o'clock in the evening, it fell calm, whichcontinued till two the next morning, when a breeze sprung up at north, which soon after increased to a fresh gale, and fixed at N. E. With this westeered south till noon on the 20th, when, being now in the latitude of 62°34' S. , longitude 116° 24' W. , we were again becalmed. 

In this situation we had two ice islands in sight, one of which seemed tobe as large as any we had seen. It could not be less than two hundred feetin height, and terminated in a peak not unlike the cupola of St Paul'schurch. At this time we had a great westerly swell, which made itimprobable that any land should lie between us and the meridian of 133°1/2, which was our longitude, under the latitude we were now in, when westood to the north. In all this route we had not seen the least thing thatcould induce us to think we were ever in the neighbourhood of any land. Wehad, indeed, frequently seen pieces of sea-weed; but this, I am wellassured, is no sign of the vicinity of land; for weed is seen in every partof the ocean. After a few hours calm, we got a wind from S. E. ; but it wasvery unsettled, and attended with thick snow-showers; at length it fixed atS. By E. , and we stretched to the east. The wind blew fresh, was piercingcold, and attended with snow and sleet. On the 22d, being in the latitudeof 62° 5' S. , longitude 112° 24' W. , we saw an ice island, an antarticpeterel, several blue peterels, and some other known birds; but no onething that gave us the least hopes of finding land. 

On the 23d, at noon, we were in the latitude of 62° 22' S. , longitude 110°24'. In the afternoon, we passed an ice island. The wind, which blew fresh, continued to veer to the west; and at eight o'clock the next morning it wasto the north of west, when I steered S. By W. And S. S. W. At this time wewere in the latitude of 63° 20' S. , longitude 108° 7' W. , and had a greatsea from S. W. We continued this course till noon the next day, the 25th, when we steered due south. Our latitude, at this time, was 65° 24' S. , longitude 109° 31' W. ; the wind was at north; the weather mild and notunpleasant; and not a bit of ice in view. This we thought a littleextraordinary, as it was but a month before, and not quite two hundredleagues to the east, that we were in a manner blocked up with large islandsof ice in this very latitude. Saw a single pintadoe peterel, some bluepeterels, and a few brown albatrosses. In the evening, being under the samemeridian, and in the latitude of 65° 44' S. , the variation was 19° 27' E. ;but the next morning, in the latitude of 66° 20' S. , longitude the same asbefore, it was only 18° 20' E. ; probably the mean between the two is thenearest the truth. At this time, we had nine small islands in sight; andsoon after we came, the third time, within the antartic polar circle, inthe longitude of 109° 31' W. About noon, seeing the appearance of land tothe S. E. , we immediately trimmed our sails and stood towards it. Soon afterit disappeared, but we did not give it up till eight o'clock the nextmorning, when we were well assured that it was nothing but clouds, or a fogbank; and then we resumed our course to the south, with a gentle breeze atN. E. , attended with a thick fog, snow, and sleet. 

We now began to meet with ice islands more frequently than before; and, inthe latitude of 69° 38' S. , longitude 108° 12' W. , we fell in with a fieldof loose ice. As we began to be in want of water, I hoisted out two boatsand took up as much as yielded about ten tons. This was cold work, but itwas now familiar to us. As soon as we had done, we hoisted in the boats, and afterwards made short boards over that part of the sea we had in somemeasure made ourselves acquainted with. For we had now so thick a fog, thatwe could not see two hundred yards round us; and as we knew not the extentof the loose ice, I durst not steer to the south till we had clear weather. Thus we spent the night, or rather that part of twenty-four hours whichanswered to night; for we had no darkness but what was occasioned by fogs. 

At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, the fog began to clear away;and the day becoming clear and serene, we again steered to the south with agentle gale at N. E. And N. N. E. The variation was found to be 22° 41' E. This was in the latitude of 69° 45' S. , longitude 108° 5' W. ; and, in theafternoon, being in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 70° 23' S. , it was 24° 31' E. Soon after, the sky became clouded, and the air verycold. We continued our course to the south, and passed a piece of weedcovered with barnacles, which a brown albatross was picking off. At teno'clock, we passed a very large ice island; it was not less than three orfour miles in circuit. Several more being seen a-head, and the weatherbecoming foggy, we hauled the wind to the northward; but in less than twohours, the weather cleared up, and we again stood south. 

On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, we perceived the clouds, overthe horizon to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, whichwe knew denounced our approach to field-ice. Soon after, it was seen fromthe top-mast-head; and at eight o'clock, we were close to its edge. Itextended east and west, far beyond the reach of our sight. In the situationwe were in, just the southern half of our horizon was illuminated, by therays of light reflected from the ice, to a considerable height. Ninety-seven ice hills were distinctly seen within the field, besides those on theoutside; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer ornorthern edge of this immense field, was composed of loose or broken iceclose packed together, so that it was not possible for any thing to enterit. This was about a mile broad, within which, was solid ice in onecontinued compact body. It was rather low and flat (except the hills), butseemed to increase in height, as you traced it to the south; in whichdirection it extended beyond our sight. Such mountains of ice as these, Ibelieve, were never seen in the Greenland seas, at least, not that I everheard or read of, so that we cannot draw a comparison between the ice hereand there. 

It must be allowed, that these prodigious ice mountains must add suchadditional weight to the ice fields which inclose them, as cannot but makea great difference between the navigating this icy sea and that ofGreenland. 

I will not say it was impossible any where to get farther to the south; butthe attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, andwhat, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. It was, indeed, _my_ opinion, as well as the opinion of most on board, thatthis ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined on some land, towhich it had been fixed from the earliest time; and that it is here, thatis to the south of this parallel, where all the ice we find scattered upand down to the north, is first formed, and afterwards broken off by galesof wind, or other causes, and brought to the north by the currents, whichwe always found to set in that direction in the high latitudes. As we drewnear this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen; and but few otherbirds or any other thing that could induce us to think any land was near. And yet I think, there must be some to the south behind this ice; but ifthere is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. I, who hadambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far asit was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with thisinterruption, as it in some measure relieved us, at least shortened thedangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polarregions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to thesouth, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking and standing back tothe north; being at this time in the latitude of 71° 10' S. , longitude 106°54' W. [12]

It was happy for us that the weather was clear when we fell in with thisice, and that we discovered it so soon as we did; for we had no soonertacked than we were involved in a thick fog. The wind was at east, and blewa fresh breeze, so that we were enabled to return back over that space wehad already made ourselves acquainted with. At noon, the mercury in thethermometer stood at 32-1/2, and we found the air exceedingly cold. Thethick fog continuing with showers of snow, gave a coat of ice to ourrigging of near an inch thick. In the afternoon of the next day the fogcleared away at intervals; but the weather was cloudy and gloomy, and theair excessively cold; however, the sea within our horizon was clear of ice. 

We continued to stand to the north, with the wind easterly, till theafternoon on the first of February, when falling in with some loose icewhich had been broken from an island to windward we hoisted out two boats, and having taken some on board, resumed our course to the N. And N. E. , withgentle breezes from S. E. , attended sometimes with fair weather, and atother times with snow and sleet. On the 4th we were in the latitude of 65°42' S. , longitude 99° 44'. The next day the wind was very unsettled both instrength and position, and attended with snow and sleet. At length, on the6th, after a few hours calm, we got a breeze at south, which soon afterfreshened, fixed at W. S. W. , and was attended with snow and sleet. 

I now came to the resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend theensuing winter within the tropic, if I met with no employment before I camethere. I was now well satisfied no continent was to be found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south, as to be wholly inaccessible onaccount of ice; and that if one should be found in the southern AtlanticOcean, it would be necessary to have the whole summer before us to exploreit. On the other hand, upon a supposition that there is no land there, weundoubtedly might have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April, and so haveput an end to the expedition, so far as it related to the finding acontinent; which indeed was the first object of the voyage. But for me atthis time to have quitted the southern Pacific Ocean, with a good shipexpressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want eitherof stores or of provisions, would have been betraying not only a want ofperseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the south Pacific Ocean to havebeen so well explored, that nothing remained to be done in it. This, however, was not my opinion; for though I had proved that there was nocontinent but what must lie far to the south, there remained neverthelessroom for very large islands in places wholly unexamined; and many of thosewhich were formerly discovered, are but imperfectly explored, and theirsituations as imperfectly known. I was besides of opinion, that myremaining in this sea some time longer, would be productive of improvementsin navigation and geography, as well as in other sciences. I had severaltimes communicated my thoughts on this subject to Captain Furneaux; but asit then wholly depended on what we might meet with to the south, I couldnot give it in orders, without running a risk of drawing us from the mainobject. Since now nothing had happened to prevent me from, carrying theseviews into execution, my intention was first to go in search of the landsaid to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez, above a century ago, inabout the latitude of 38°; if I should fail in finding this land, then togo in search of Easter Island or Davis's Land, whose situation was knownwith so little certainty, that the attempts lately made to find it hadmiscarried. I next intended to get within the tropic, and then proceed tothe west, touching at, and settling the situations of such islands as wemight meet with till we arrived at Otaheite, where it was necessary Ishould stop to look for the Adventure. I had also thoughts of running asfar west as the Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo, discovered by Quiros, and which M. De Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades. Quiros speaks ofthis land as being large, or lying in the neighbourhood of large lands; andas this was a point which M. De Bougainville had neither confirmed norrefuted, I thought it was worth clearing up. From this land my design wasto steer to the south, and so back to the east, between the latitudes of50° and 60°; intending, if possible, to be the length of Cape Horn inNovember next, when we should have the best part of the summer before us toexplore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as this designappeared to be, I however thought it possible to be executed; and when Icame to communicate it to the officers, I had the satisfaction to find, that they all heartily concurred in it. I should not do these gentlemenjustice, if I did not take some opportunity to declare, that they alwaysshewed the utmost readiness to carry into execution, in the most effectualmanner, every measure I thought proper to take. Under such circumstances, it is hardly necessary to say, that the seamen were always obedient andalert; and, on this occasion, they were so far from wishing the voyage atan end, that they, rejoiced at the prospect of its being prolonged anotheryear, and of soon enjoying the benefits of a milder climate. 

I now steered north, inclining to the east, and in the evening we wereovertaken with a furious storm at W. S. W. , attended with snow and sleet. Itcame so suddenly upon us, that before we could take in our sails, two oldtop-sails, which we had bent to the yards, were blown to pieces, and theother sails much damaged. The gale lasted, without the least intermission, till the next morning, when it began to abate; it continued, however, toblow very fresh till noon on the 12th, when it ended in a calm. 

At this time we were in the latitude of 50° 14' S. , longitude 95° 18' W. Some birds being about the ship, we took the advantage of the calm to put aboat in the water, and shot several birds, on which we feasted the nextday. One of these birds was of that sort which has been so often mentionedin this journal under the name of Port Egmont hens. They are of the gullkind, about the size of a raven, with a dark-brown plumage, except theunder-side of each wing, where there are some white feathers. The rest ofthe birds were albatrosses and sheer-waters. 

After a few hours calm, having got a breeze at N. W. , we made a stretch tothe S. W. For twenty-four hours; in which route we saw a piece of wood, abunch of weed, and a diving peterel. The wind having veered more to thewest, made us tack and stretch to the north till noon on the 14th, at whichtime we were in the latitude of 49° 32' S. , longitude 95° 11' W. We had nowcalms and light breezes, succeeding each other, till the next morning, whenthe wind freshened at W. N. W. , and was attended with a thick fog anddrizzling rain the three following days, during which time we stretched tothe north, inclining to the east, and crossed my track to Otaheite in 1769. I did intend to have kept more to the west, but the strong winds from thatdirection put it out of my power. 

On the 18th, the wind veered to S. W. , and blew very fresh, but was attendedwith clear weather, which gave us an opportunity to ascertain our longitudeby several lunar observations made by Messrs Wales, Clarke, Gilbert, andSmith. The mean result of all, was 94° 19' 30" W. ; Mr Kendal's watch, atthe same time, gave 94° 46' W. ; our latitude was 43° 53' S. The windcontinued not long at S. W. Before it veered back to the west and W. N. W. 

As we advanced to the north, we felt a most sensible change in the weather. The 20th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 39° 58' S. , longitude 94° 37'W. The day was clear and pleasant, and I may say, the only summer's day wehad had since we left New Zealand. The mercury in the thermometer rose to66. 

We still continued to steer to the north, as the wind remained in the oldquarter; and the next day, at noon, we were in the latitude 37° 54' S. ;which was the same that Juan Fernandez's discovery is said to lie in. We, however, had not the least signs of any land lying in our neighbourhood. 

The next day at noon, we were in latitude 36° 10' S. , longitude 94° 56' W. Soon after, the wind veered to S. S. E. , and enabled us to steer W. S. W. , which I thought the most probable direction to find the land of which wewere in search; and yet I had no hopes of succeeding, as we had a largehollow swell from the same point. We however continued this course till the25th, when the wind having veered again round to the westward, I gave itup, and stood away to the north, in order to get into the latitude ofEaster Island: our latitude, at this time, was 37° 52', longitude 101° 10'W. 

I was now well assured that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any suchwas ever made, can be nothing but a small island; there being hardly roomfor a large land, as will fully appear by the tracks of Captain Wallis, Bougainville, of the Endeavour, and this of the Resolution. Whoever wantsto see an account of the discovery in question, will meet with it in MrDalrymple's collection of voyages to the south seas. This gentleman placesit under the meridian of 90°, where I think it cannot be; for M. DeBougainville seems to have run down under that meridian; and we had nowexamined the latitude in which it is said to lie, from the meridian of 94°to 101°. It is not probable it can lie to the east of 90°; because if itdid, it must have been seen, at one time or other, by ships bound from thenorthern to the southern parts of America. Mr Pengré, in a little treatiseconcerning the transit of Venus, published in 1768, gives some account ofland having been discovered by the Spaniards in 1714, in the latitude of38°, and 550 leagues from the coast of Chili, which is in the longitude of110° or 111° west, and within a degree or two of my track in the Endeavour;so that this can hardly be its situation. In short, the only probablesituation it can have must be about the meridian of 106° or 108° west; andthen it can only be a small isle, as I have already observed. 

I was now taken ill of the bilious cholic, which was so violent as toconfine me to my bed, so that the management of the ship was left to MrCooper the first officer, who conducted her very much to my satisfaction. It was several days before the most dangerous symptoms of my disorder wereremoved; during which time, Mr Patten the surgeon was to me, not only askilful physician, but an affectionate nurse; and I should ill deserve thecare he bestowed on me, if I did not make this public acknowledgment. WhenI began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr Forster fell asacrifice to my tender stomach. We had no other fresh meat on board, and Icould eat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when I could tastenothing else. Thus I received nourishment and strength from food whichwould have made most people in Europe sick: So true it is, that necessityis governed by no law. [13]

On the 28th, in the latitude of 33° 7' S. , longitude 102° 33' W. , we beganto see flying-fish, egg-birds, and nodies, which are said not to go abovesixty or eighty leagues from land; but of this we have no certainty. No oneyet knows to what distance any of the oceanic birds go to sea; for my ownpart, I do not believe there is one in the whole tribe that can be reliedon, in pointing out the vicinity of land. 

In the latitude of 30° 30' S. , longitude 101° 45' W. , we began to see men-of-war birds. In the latitude of 29° 44', longitude 100° 45' W. , we had acalm for nearly two days together, during which time the heat wasintolerable; but what ought to be remarked, there was a great swell fromthe S. W. 

On the 6th of March, the calm was succeeded by an easterly wind, with whichwe steered N. W. Till noon the 8th, when being in the latitude of 27° 4' S. , longitude 103° 58' W. , we steered west; meeting every day with greatnumbers of birds, such as men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, podies, sheer-waters, &c. And once we passed several pieces of sponge, and a smalldried leaf not unlike a bay one. Soon after, we saw a sea-snake, in everyrespect like those we had before seen at the tropical islands. We also sawplenty of fish, but we were such bad fishers that we caught only fouralbacores, which were very acceptable, to me especially, who was justrecovering from my late illness. 

 [1] "The remembrance of domestic felicity, and of the sweets of society, called forth a sigh from every heart which felt the tender ties of filial or parental affection. We are the first Europeans, and, I believe, I may add, the first human beings who have reached this point, where it is probable none will come after us. A common report prevails, indeed, in England, concerning Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have visited the antipodes, which the legend expresses by "his having passed under the middle arch of London bridge:" but this is a mistake, as his track lay along the coast of America, and probably originates from his having passed the _periæci_, or the point in 180° longitude on the same circle of north latitude, on the coast of California. "--G. F. 

 To the vanity of Englishmen, not always accompanied, it is to be feared, by political honesty, the expedition of Drake afforded the highest gratification. Swarms of wits, accordingly, who are never wanting in any reign, either to eulogize what the government has sanctioned, or to infuse something of literary immortality into popular enthusiasm, were in requisition on this extraordinary occasion, and, as usual, vied with each other in bombast and the fervour of exaggeration. If one might credit the legends, Sir Francis accomplished much more than a visit to the antipodes, much more indeed, than ever man did before or since. Witness an epigram on him preserved in the Censura Literaria. Vol. Iii, p. 217:--

 Sir Drake, whom well the world's end knew, Which thou didst compasse round, And whom both poles of heaven once saw Which north and south do bound: The stars above would make thee known, If men were silent here; The Sun himselfe cannot forget His fellow-traveller. 

 This is evidently a quaint version of the quaint lines said, by Camden, to have been made by the scholars of Winchester College:--

 _Drace, pererrati quem novit terminus orbis, Quemque simul mundi vidit uterque Polus; Si taceant homines, facient te sidera notum. Sol nescit comitis non memor esse sui_. 

 Abraham Cowley seems to have availed himself of the chief thought here embodied, in his pointed epigram on the chair formed from the planks of Drake's vessel, and presented to the university of Oxford. His metaphysical genius, however, has refined the _point_ with no small dexterity--the four last lines, more especially, displaying no small elegance. The reader will not despise them:--

 To this great ship, which round the world has run, And matcht in race the chariot of the sun; This Pythagorean ship (for it may claim Without presumption, so deserved a name), By knowledge once, and transformation now, In her new shape, this sacred port allow. Drake and his ship could not have wish'd from fate An happier station, or more blest estate; For lo! a seat of endless rest is given To her in Oxford, and to him in Heaven. 

 It would be unpardonable to omit, now we are on the subject of Drake's praises, the verses given in the Biog. Brit. And said to have been unpublished before:--

 Thy glory, Drake, extensive as thy mind, No time shall tarnish, and no limits bind: What greater praise! than thus to match the Sun, Running that race which cannot be outrun. Wide as the world then compass'd spreads thy fame, And, with that world, an equal date shall claim. 

 The reader, it may be presumed, has enough of this subject. --E. 

 [2] "At noon, on the 10th December, we had reached the latitude of 59° S. , without having met with any ice, though we fell in with it the preceding year on the 10th December, between the 50th and 51st degree of south latitude. It is difficult to account for this difference; perhaps a severe winter preceding our first course from the Cape of Good Hope, might accumulate more ice that year than the next, which is the more probable, as we learnt at the Cape that the winter had been sharper there than usual; perhaps a violent storm might break the polar ice, and drive it so far to the northward as we found it; and, perhaps, both these causes might concur with others, to produce this effect. "--G. F. 

 "It is remarkable, that in different years, seasons, and places of the sea, we found the ice differently situated. In the year 1772, December 10th, we saw the ice between 50° and 51° of southern latitude. In 1773, on December 12th, we found the first ice in 62° S. In 1775, on January 27th, we saw the ice in about 60° S. On February 24th, we came to the same place, where, about twenty-six months before, we had met with such an impenetrable body of ice, as had obliged us to run to the east, but where, at this last time, no vestige of it appeared, no more than at the place where Bouvet had placed his Cape Circumcision, we having sailed over the whole tract which he suspected to be land; nor could we be mistaken in its situation, as we had been on the same parallel for a considerable time; so that it is impossible to have missed the land, if any had existed, as we had frequent opportunities to ascertain our latitude. "--F. 

 It is well known, that considerable masses of ice have been met with as low down as 46° of south latitude; but hitherto no very satisfactory solution has been given of the phenomenon. --E. 

 [3] "Our friend Mahine had already expressed his surprise at several little snow and hail showers on the preceding days, this phenomenon being utterly unknown in his country. The appearances of "white stones, " which melted in his hand, was altogether miraculous in his eyes, and though we endeavoured to explain to him that cold was the cause of their formation, yet I believe his ideas on that subject were never very clear. A heavy fall of snow surprised him more than what he had seen before, and after a long consideration of its singular qualities, he told us he would call it the _white rain_ when be came back to his country. He did not see the first ice, on account of the early hour in the morning; but two days after, in about 65° S. , he was struck with astonishment upon seeing one of the largest pieces, and the day following presented him with an extensive field of ice, which blocked up our farther progress to the south, and gave him great pleasure, supposing it to be land, We told him that so far from being land, it was nothing but fresh water, which we found some difficulty to convince him of at first, till we shewed him the ice which was formed in the scuttled cask on the deck. He assured us, however, that he would, at all events, call this the _white land_, by way of distinguishing it from all the rest. "--G. F. 

 [4] "About one o'clock, whilst the people were at dinner, we were alarmed by the sudden appearance of a large island of ice just a-head of us. It was absolutely impossible either to wear or tack the ship, on account of its proximity, and our only resource was to keep as near the wind as possible, and to try to weather the danger. We were in the most dreadful suspension for a few minutes, and though we fortunately succeeded, yet the ship passed within her own length to windward of it, "--G. F. 

 [5] On a moderate calculation, one may reckon the bulk of immersed ice to be ten times greater than that which appears above the surface. This will afford the reader some notion of the prodigious magnitude of these floating islands; and he will readily comprehend the hazard of sailing amongst them, when he considers the mischief occasioned by the collision of a large ship and a small boat. --E. 

 [6] "About this time many persons were afflicted with violent rheumatic pains, headaches, swelled glands, and catarrhal fevers, which some attributed to the use of ice-water. "--G. F. 

 Without any way calling in question, what is so often said of the injurious effects of sea-water, when long used, it is evidently more rational, in the present instance, to ascribe these complaints to the inclemency of the weather. --E. 

 [7] There is something very peculiarly affecting in the following observations of Mr. G. F. --"This being Christmas day, the captain, according to custom, invited the officers and mates to dinner, and one of the lieutenants entertained the petty officers. The sailors feasted on a double portion of pudding, regaling themselves with the brandy of their allowance, which they had saved for this occasion some months beforehand, being solicitous to get very drunk, though they are commonly solicitous about nothing else. The sight of an immense number of icy masses, amongst which we drifted at the mercy of the current, every moment in danger of being dashed in pieces against them, could not deter the sailors from indulging in their favourite amusement. As long as they had brandy left, they would persist to keep Christmas "like Christians, " though the elements had combined together for their destruction. Their long acquaintance with a sea-faring life had inured them to all kinds of perils, and their heavy labour, with the inclemencies of weather, and other hardships, making their muscles rigid and their nerves obtuse, had communicated insensibility to the mind. It will easily be conceived, that as they do not feel for themselves sufficiently to provide for their own safety, they must be incapable of feeling for others. Subjected to a very strict command, they also exercise a tyrannical sway over those whom fortune places in their power. Accustomed to face an enemy, they breathe nothing but war. By force of habit, even killing is become so much their passion, that we have seen many instances during our voyage, where they have expressed a horrid eagerness to fire upon the natives on the slightest pretences. Their way of life in general, prevents their enjoying domestic comforts; and gross animal appetites fill the place of purer affections. 

 At last, extinct each social feeling, fell And joyless inhumanity pervades And petrifies the heart. --

 THOMSON. 

 Though they are members of a civilized society, they may, in some measure, be looked on as a body of uncivilized men, rough, passionate, revengeful, but likewise brave, sincere, and true to each other. "

 In place of inveighing against the illiberality of this statement, or attempting to dispute its truth, as many persons, from an affectation of enthusiastic regard for the honour of our tars, or positive ignorance or contempt of the most incontrovertible obligations of morality and religion, would incline, it will be vastly more philosophical to investigate what are the principles of human nature and the circumstances in their situation, which give rise to such a character, that if possible some adequate remedy, or check at least, may be discovered. This is certainly not the place for such a discussion, as the importance of the subject demands; and the writer can by no means imagine himself called on to enter upon it. But he hazards a remark. He would consider British sailors as made up of precisely the same elements as the rest of men, and that the obvious peculiarities in which they differ from others, are the result of the circumstances of their professional situation. It follows, that his censure falls on the profession itself, rather than on those who are members of it. But in fact, he conceives that there has been a culpable neglect on the part of those who at different periods acquire authority, to the moral condition of this class of men. It is obvious indeed, that governments in general are little careful about the characters of their subordinate agents, unless in so far as is essential to the purposes for which they are employed; and accordingly, where the base and savage principles of mankind can be converted into so powerful an instrument, as we know they are in the present case, we shall find, that scarcely any pains have been taken to superinduce refinement, or even to favour the salutary operation of those causes, by which, in the ordinary course of things, society is gradually emancipated from barbarism. The rough virtues of the seaman are in their estimation of sufficient excellence, without the enhancement of moral attainments; and it is questionable, indeed, if a sort of prejudice may not lurk in the minds of many, that the latter would be the destruction of the former. Clearly, however, it seems to be conceived, that there is no adequate inducement to run the risk of the experiment; and, therefore, some gross immoralities are connived at, under the plausible title of necessary evils, provided they do not interfere with the technical duties of the profession. Though it be admitted, that the reformation of men's manners forms no part of the office of a politician, yet it may be fairly pleaded, on the other hand, as vice is in its own nature a debilitating power, independent altogether of reference to a Supreme Being, that to eradicate it, or to apply a restraint to its influence, may be no injudicious labour of his vocation. This, it is presumed, may be attempted in three ways, (in addition to certain indulgences, which there appears to be an imperious necessity to admit, with a view of preventing greater evils, ) viz. The improvement of discipline, the increase of knowledge, and the application of a higher tone of public sentiment. There cannot be room for a moment's controversy, that to the efficacy of these three causes, is to be ascribed, the superiority in the appearance, at least, of the morals and conduct of the present day, above that of even the preceding half century. Who can deny, e. G, that the odious vice of drunkenness is much more disreputable now than formerly, throughout the whole of Europe? It may be said to be almost unknown in genteel circles; and there seems not the least reason to doubt, that as improvements in arts and sciences advance, and as education extends to the lower classes, so as to supply sources of mental enjoyment and exercise, it will be almost altogether extirpated from society. Let this and other vices be held as positively dishonourable, because unfitting for professional duty, and inconsistent with professional dignity--let them be visited by certain punishment--give free scope to the emulation of intellect and to the cultivation of proper self- interest--and vindicate to popular opinion, the claims of this most useful class, to the character of moral and rational beings, so that no flattering but injurious unction may be applied to film over the real turpitude of their offences--then, and then only, may it be safely asserted, that such descriptions as we have been considering, are the offspring of prudery or inflamed imagination, and have no prototype in nature. --E. 

 [8] "We had scarcely any night during our stay in the frigid zone, so that I find several articles in my father's journal, written by the light of the sun, within a few minutes before the hour of midnight. The sun's stay below the horizon was so short, that we had a very strong twilight all the time. Mahine was struck with great astonishment at this phenomenon, and would scarcely believe his senses. All our endeavours to explain it to him miscarried, and he assured us he despaired of finding belief among his countrymen, when he should come back to recount the wonders of petrified rain, and of perpetual day. "--G. F. 

 [9] "To-day, while we were observing the meridian altitude of the sun, a shower of snow came from the west, and passed a-head of the ship; during which, a large island of ice, considerably within the visible horizon, and directly under the sun, was entirely hid by it; yet the horizon appeared as distinct, and much the same as it usually does in dark hazy weather. When the shower was over, I found that it required the sun to be dipped something more than his whole diameter to bring his lower limb to the nearest edge of the ice island, which must have been farther off than the visible horizon, during the shower; and yet this would have been taken as the real horizon, without any suspicion, if it had been every where equally obscure. Hence may be inferred the uncertainty of altitudes taken in foggy, or what seamen, in general, call hazy weather. --W. 

 [10] A few days before, according to Mr G. F. 's relation, his father and twelve other persons were confined to bed with rheumatism; and though the scurvy had not appeared in any dangerous form, yet a general languor and sickly look were manifested in almost every face, and Captain Cook himself was pale and lean, and had lost all appetite. --E. 

 [11] "Our situation at present was indeed very dismal, even to those who preserved the blessing of health; to the sick, whose crippled limbs were tortured with excessive pain, it was insupportable. The ocean about us had a furious aspect, and seemed incensed at the presumption of a few intruding mortals. A gloomy melancholy air loured on the brows of our shipmates, and a dreadful silence reigned amongst us. Salt meat, our constant diet, was become loathsome to all, and even to those who had been bred to a nautical life from their tender years: The hour of dinner was hateful to us, for the well known smell of the victuals had no sooner reached our nose, than we found it impossible to partake of them with a hearty appetite. In short, we rather vegetated than lived; we withered, and became indifferent to all that animates the soul at other times. We sacrificed our health, our feelings, our enjoyments, to the honour of pursuing a track unattempted before. The crew were as much distressed as the officers, from another cause. Their biscuit, which had been sorted at New Zealand, baked over again, and then packed up, was now in the same decayed state as before. This was owing partly to the revisal, which had been so rigorous, that many bad biscuit was preserved among those that were eatable; and partly to the neglect of the casks, which had not been sufficiently fumigated and dried. Of this rotten bread the people only received two-thirds of their usual allowance, from economical principles; but as that portion is hardly sufficient, supposing it to be all eatable, it was far from being so when nearly one half of it was rotten. However, they continued in that distressful situation till this day, when the first mate came to the capstern and complained most bitterly that he and the people had not wherewith to satisfy the cravings of the stomach, producing, at the same time, the rotten and stinking remains of his biscuit. Upon this, the crew were put to full allowance. The captain seemed to recover again as we advanced to the southward, but all those who were afflicted with rheumatisms, continued as much indisposed as ever. "--G. F. 

 [12] "The thermometer here was 32°, and a great many penguins were heard croaking around us, but could not be seen, on account of the foggy weather which immediately succeeded. As often as we had hitherto penetrated to the southward, we had met with no land, but been stopped sooner or later by a solid ice-field, which extended before us as far as we could see: At the same time we had always found the winds moderate and frequently easterly in these high latitudes, in the same manner as they are said to be in the northern frozen zone. From these circumstances, my father had been led to suppose, that all the south pole, to the distance of 20 degrees, more or less, is covered with solid ice, of which only the extremities are annually broken off by storms, consumed by the action of the sun, and regenerated in winter. This opinion is the less exceptionable, since there seems to be no absolute necessity for the existence of land towards the formation of ice, and because we have little reason to suppose that there actually is any land of considerable extent in the frigid zone. "--G. F. 

 "Mr F. Has most amply and ably discussed the point in his observations, controverting unanswerably, as the writer thinks, the opinion of Buffon and others, as to the existence of southern lands being necessary for the production of such large masses of ice. The limits of the present note preclude the insertion, in any satisfactory shape, of the opposing arguments; but there is ground for anticipating an opportunity of considering the subject, and some others of an interesting nature, in a manner more suitable to their importance, than a mere notice implies. We go on then with the narrative. --E. 

 [13] Captain Cook, from an excess of delicacy, rarely specifies his personal sufferings; but one really requires to know something of them, in order to make a proper estimate of his magnanimous resolution in fulfilling his instructions, and to entertain a just conception of the self-denial which such an expedition demanded. We shall be aided by the following particulars, which, besides, imply the very extensive distress of the whole crew: "A great number of our people were afflicted with very severe rheumatic pains, which deprived them of the use of their limbs; but their spirits were so low, that they had no fever. Though the use of that excellent prophylactic, the sour krout, prevented the appearance of the scurvy during all the cold weather, yet, being made of cabbage, it is not so nutritive that we could live upon it, without the assistance of biscuit and salt-beef. But the former of these being rotten, and the other almost consumed by the salt, it is obvious that no wholesome juices could be secreted from thence, which might have kept the body strong and vigorous. Under these difficulties all our patients recovered very slowly, having nothing to restore their strength; and my father, who had been in exquisite torments during the greatest part of our southern cruise, was afflicted with toothaches, swelled cheeks, sore throat, and universal pain, till the middle of February, when he went on deck perfectly emaciated. The warm weather, which was beneficial to him, proved fatal to Captain Cook's constitution. The disappearance of his bilious complaint during our last push to the south, had not been so sincere, as to make him recover his appetite. The return to the north, therefore, brought on a dangerous obstruction, which the captain very unfortunately slighted, and concealed from every person in the ship, at the same time endeavouring to get the better of it by taking hardly any subsistence. This proceeding, instead of removing, increased the evil, his stomach being already weak enough before. He was afflicted with violent pains, which in the space of a few days confined him to his bed, and forced him to have recourse to medicines. He took a purge, but instead of producing the desired effect, it caused a violent vomiting, which was assisted immediately by proper emetics. All attempts, however, to procure a passage through his bowels were ineffectual; his food and medicines were thrown up, and in a few days a most dreadful hiccough appeared, which lasted for upwards of twenty four hours, with such astonishing violence, that his life was entirely despaired of. Opiates and glysters had no effect, till repeated hot baths, and plasters of theriaca applied on his stomach, had relieved his body and intestines. This, however, was not effected till he had been above a week in the most imminent danger. Next to providence it was chiefly owing to the skill of our surgeon, Mr Patten, that he recovered to prosecute the remaining part of our voyage, with the same spirit with which it had hitherto been carried on. The care and assiduity with which that worthy man watched him during his whole illness, cannot be sufficiently extolled, as all our hopes of future discoveries, as well as union in the ship, depended solely on the preservation of the captain. The surgeon's extreme attention, however, had nearly cost him his own life. Having taken no rest for many nights together, and seldom venturing to sleep an hour by day, he was so much exhausted, that we trembled for his life, upon which that of almost every man in the ship, in a great measure, depended. He was taken ill with a bilious disorder, which was dangerous on account of the extreme weakness of his stomach, and it is more than probable, that if we had not speedily fallen in with land, from whence we collected some slight refreshments, he must have fallen a sacrifice to that rigorous perseverance and extreme punctuality with which he discharged the several duties of his profession. "--G. F. 

SECTION VII. 

_Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, andTransactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the InlandPart of the Country, and a Description of some of the surprising giganticStatues found in the Island. _

At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 11th, land was seen, from the mast-head, bearing west, and at noon from the deck, extending from W. 3/4 N. ToW. By S. , about twelve leagues distant. [1] I made no doubt that this wasDavis's Land, or Easter Island; as its appearance from this situation, corresponded very well with Wafer's account; and we expected to have seenthe low sandy isle that Davis fell in with, which would have been aconfirmation; but in this we were disappointed. At seven o'clock in theevening, the island bore from north 62° W. , to north 87° W. , about fiveleagues distant; in which situation, we sounded without finding ground witha line of an hundred and forty fathoms. Here we spent the night, havingalternately light airs and calms, till ten o'clock the next morning, when abreeze sprung up at W. S. W. With this we stretched in for the land; and bythe help of our glass, discovered people, and some of those Colosseanstatues or idols mentioned in the account of Roggewein's voyage. [2] At fouro'clock p. M. We were half a league S. S. E. And N. N. W. Of the N. E. Point ofthe island; and, on sounding, found thirty-five fathoms, a dark sandybottom. I now tacked, and endeavoured to get into what appeared to be abay, on the west side of the point or S. E. Side of the island; but beforethis could be accomplished, night came upon us, and we stood on and off, under the land, till the next morning; having sounding from seventy-five toan hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. 

On the 13th, about eight o'clock in the morning, the wind, which had beenvariable most part of the night, fixed at S. E. , and blew in squalls, accompanied with rain; but it was not long before the weather became fair. As the wind now blew right to the S. E. Shore, which does not afford thatshelter I at first thought, I resolved to look for anchorage on the westand N. W. Sides of the island. With this view I bore up round the southpoint, off which lie two small islets, the one nearest the point high andpeaked, and the other low and flattish. After getting round the point, andcoming before a sandy beach, we found soundings thirty and forty fathoms, sandy ground, and about one mile from the shore. Here a canoe, conducted bytwo men, came off to us. They brought with them a bunch of plantains, whichthey sent into the ship by a rope, and then they returned ashore. This gaveus a good opinion of the islanders, and inspired us with hopes of gettingsome refreshments, which we were in great want of. 

I continued to range along the coast, till we opened the northern point ofthe isle, without seeing a better anchoring-place than the one we hadpassed. We therefore tacked, and plied back to it; and, in the mean time, sent away the master in a boat to sound the coast. He returned about fiveo'clock in the evening; and soon after we came to an anchor in thirty-sixfathoms water, before the sandy beach above mentioned. As the master drewnear the shore with the boat, one of the natives swam off to her, andinsisted on coming a-board the ship, where he remained two nights and aday. The first thing he did after coming a-board, was to measure the lengthof the ship, by fathoming her from the tafferel to the stern, and as hecounted the fathoms, we observed that he called the numbers by the samenames that they do at Otaheite; nevertheless his language was in a mannerwholly unintelligible to all of us. [3]

Having anchored too near the edge of a bank, a fresh breeze from the land, about three o'clock the next morning, drove us off it; on which the anchorwas heaved up, and sail made to regain the bank again. While the ship wasplying in, I went ashore, accompanied by some of the gentlemen, to see whatthe island was likely to afford us. We landed at the sandy beach, wheresome hundreds of the natives were assembled, and who were so impatient tosee us, that many of them swam off to meet the boats. Not one of them hadso much as a stick or weapon of any sort in their hands. After distributinga few trinkets amongst them, we made signs for something to eat, on whichthey brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar canes, and exchangedthem for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. [4]

We presently discovered that they were as expert thieves and as tricking intheir exchanges, as any people we had yet met with. It was with somedifficulty we could keep the hats on our heads; but hardly possible to keepany thing in our pockets, not even what themselves had sold us; for theywould watch every opportunity to snatch it from us, so that we sometimesbought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did not getit. 

Before I sailed from England, I was informed that a Spanish ship hadvisited this isle in 1769. Some signs of it were seen among the people nowabout us; one man had a pretty good broad-brimmed European hat on, anotherhad a grego jacket, and another a red silk handkerchief. They also seemedto know the use of a musquet, and to stand in much awe of it; but this theyprobably learnt from Roggewein, who, if we are to believe the authors ofthat voyage, left them sufficient tokens. 

Near the place where we landed, were some of those statues beforementioned, which I shall describe in another place. The country appearedbarren and without wood; there were, nevertheless, several plantations ofpotatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes; we also saw some fowls, and found awell of brackish water. As these were articles we were in want of, and asthe natives seemed not unwilling to part with them, I resolved to stay aday or two. With this view I repaired on board, and brought the ship to ananchor in thirty-two fathoms water; the bottom a fine dark sand. Ourstation was about a mile from the nearest shore, the south point of a smallbay, in the bottom of which is the sandy beach before mentioned, beingE. S. E. , distant one mile and a-half. The two rocky islets lying off thesouth point of the island, were just shut behind a point to the north ofthem; they bore south 3/4 west, four miles distant; and the other extremeof the island bore north 25° E. , distant about six miles. But the best markfor this anchoring-place is the beach, because it is the only one on thisside of the island. In the afternoon, we got on board a few casks of water, and opened a trade with the natives for such things as they had to disposeof. Some of the gentlemen also made an excursion into the country to seewhat it produced; and returned again in the evening, with the loss only ofa hat, which one of the natives snatched off the head of one of theparty. [5]

Early next morning, I sent Lieutenants Pickersgill and Edgecumbe with aparty of men, accompanied by several of the gentlemen, to examine thecountry. As I was not sufficiently recovered from my late illness to makeone of the party, I was obliged to content myself with remaining at thelanding-place among the natives. We had, at one time, a pretty brisk tradewith them for potatoes, which we observed they dug up out of an adjoiningplantation; but this traffic, which was very advantageous to us, was soonput a stop to by the owner (as we supposed) of the plantation coming down, and driving all the people out of it. By this we concluded, that he hadbeen robbed of his property, and that they were not less scrupulous ofstealing from one another, than from us, on whom they practised everylittle fraud they could think of, and generally with success; for we nosooner detected them in one, than they found out another. About seveno'clock in the evening, the party I had sent into the country returned, after having been over the greatest part of the island. 

They left the beach about nine o'clock in the morning, and took a pathwhich led across to the S. E. Side of the island, followed by a great crowdof the natives, who pressed much upon them. But they had not proceeded far, before a middle-aged man, punctured from head to foot, and his face paintedwith a sort of white pigment, appeared with a spear in his hand, and walkedalong-side of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a distance, and not to molest our people. When he had pretty well effected this, hehoisted a piece of white cloth on his spear, placed himself in the front, and led the way, with his ensign of peace, as they understood it to be. Forthe greatest part of the distance across, the ground had but a barrenappearance, being a dry hard clay, and every where covered with stones; butnotwithstanding this, there were several large tracts planted withpotatoes; and some plantain walks, but they saw no fruit on any of thetrees. Towards the highest part of the south end of the island, the soil, which was a fine red earth, seemed much better, bore a longer grass, andwas not covered with stones as in the other parts; but here they sawneither house nor plantation. 

On the east side, near the sea, they met with three platforms of stone-work, or rather the ruins of them. On each had stood four of those largestatues, but they were all fallen down from two of them, and also one fromthe third; all except one were broken by the fall, or in some measuredefaced. Mr Wales measured this one, and found it to be fifteen feet inlength, and six feet broad over the shoulders, Each statue had on its heada large cylindric stone of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The onethey measured, which was not by far the largest, was fifty-two inches high, and sixty-six in diameter. In some, the upper corner of the cylinder wastaken off in a sort of concave quarter-round, but in others the cylinderwas entire. 

From this place they followed the direction of the coast to the N. E. , theman with the flag still leading the way. For about three miles they foundthe country very barren, and in some places stript of the soil to the barerock, which seemed to be a poor sort of iron ore. Beyond this, they came tothe most fertile part of the island they saw, it being interspersed withplantations of potatoes, sugar-canes, and plantain trees, and these not somuch encumbered with stones as those which they had seen before; but theycould find no water except what the natives twice or thrice brought them, which, though brackish and stinking, was rendered acceptable, by theextremity of their thirst. They also passed some huts, the owners of whichmet them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes, and, placing themselves a-head of the foremost party (for they marched in a line in order to have thebenefit of the path), gave one to each man as he passed by. They observedthe same method in distributing the water which they brought; and wereparticularly careful that the foremost did not drink too much, lest noneshould be left for the hindmost. But at the very time these were relievingthe thirsty and hungry, there were not wanting others who endeavoured tosteal from them the very things which had been given them. At last, toprevent worse consequences, they were obliged to fire a load of small shotat one who was so audacious as to snatch from one of the men the bag whichcontained every thing they carried with them. The shot hit him on the back, on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, and then fell; but heafterwards got up and walked, and what became of him they knew not, norwhether he was much wounded. As this affair occasioned some delay, and drewthe natives together, they presently saw the man who had hitherto led theway and one or two more, coming running towards them; but instead ofstopping when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating, ina kind manner, a few words, until our people set forwards again. Then theirold guide hoisted his flag, leading the way as before, and none everattempted to steal from them the whole day afterwards. As they passedalong, they observed on a hill a number of people collected together, someof whom had spears in their hands; but on their being called to by theircountrymen, they dispersed, except a few, amongst whom was one seemingly ofsome note. He was a stout well-made man, with a fine open countenance, hisface was painted, his body punctured, and he wore a better _Ha hou_, or cloth, than the rest. He saluted them as he came up, by stretching outhis arms, with both hands clenched, lifting them over his head, openingthem wide, and then letting them fall gradually down to his sides. To thisman, whom they understood to be chief of the island, their other friendgave his white flag, and he gave him another, who carried it before themthe remainder of the day. 

Towards the eastern end of the island, they met with a well whose water wasperfectly fresh, being considerably above the level of the sea; but it wasdirty, owing to the filthiness or cleanliness (call it which you will) ofthe natives, who never go to drink without washing themselves all over assoon as they have done; and if ever so many of them are together, the firstleaps right into the middle of the hole, drinks, and washes himself withoutthe least ceremony; after which another takes his place and does the same. 

They observed that this side of the island was full of those giganticstatues so often mentioned; some placed in groupes on platforms of masonry, others single, fixed only in the earth, and that not deep; and these latterare, in general, much larger than the others. Having measured one, whichhad fallen down, they found it very near twenty-seven feet long, andupwards of eight feet over the breast or shoulders; and yet this appearedconsiderably short of the size of one they saw standing; its shade, alittle past two o'clock, being sufficient to shelter all the party, consisting of near thirty persons, from the rays of the sun. Here theystopped to dine; after which they repaired to a hill, from whence they sawall the east and north shores of the isle, on which they could not seeeither bay or creek fit even for a boat to land in; nor the least signs offresh water. What the natives brought them here was real salt water; butthey observed that some of them drank pretty plentifully of it, so far willnecessity and custom get the better of nature! On this account they wereobliged to return to the last-mentioned well, where, after having quenchedtheir thirst, they directed their route across the island towards the ship, as it was now four o'clock. 

In a small hollow, on the highest part of the island, they met with severalsuch cylinders as are placed on the heads of the statues. Some of theseappeared larger than any they had seen before; but it was now too late tostop to measure any of them. Mr Wales, from whom I had this information, isof opinion that there had been a quarry here, whence these stones hadformerly been dug; and that it would have been no difficult matter to rollthem down the hill after they were formed. I think this a very reasonableconjecture, and have no doubt that it has been so. 

On the declivity of the mountain towards the west, they met with anotherwell, but the water was a very strong mineral, had a thick green scum onthe top, and stunk intolerably. Necessity, however, obliged some to drinkof it; but it soon made them so sick, that they threw it up the same waythat it went down. 

In all this excursion, as well as the one made the preceding day, only twoor three shrubs were seen. The leaf and seed of one (called by the natives_Torromedo_) were not much unlike those of the common vetch; but thepod was more like that of a tamarind in its size and shape. The seeds havea disagreeable bitter taste; and the natives, when they saw our people chewthem, made signs to spit them out; from whence it was concluded that theythink them poisonous. The wood is of a reddish colour, and pretty hard andheavy, but very crooked, small, and short, not exceeding six or seven feetin height. At the S. W. Corner of the island, they found another smallshrub, whose wood was white and brittle, and in some measure, as also itsleaf, resembling the ash. They also saw in several places the Otaheiteancloth plant, but it was poor and weak, and not above two and a half feethigh at most. 

They saw not an animal of any sort, and but very few birds; nor indeed anything which can induce ships that are not in the utmost distress, to touchat this island. 

This account of the excursion I had from Mr Pickersgill and Mr Wales, menon whose veracity I could depend; and therefore I determined to leave theisland the next morning, since nothing was to be obtained that could makeit worth my while to stay longer; for the water which we had sent on board, was not much better than if it had been taken up out of the sea. [6]

We had a calm till ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, when a breezesprung up at west, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which lastedabout an hour. The weather then clearing up, we got under sail, stood tosea, and kept plying to and fro, while an officer was sent on shore withtwo boats, to purchase such refreshments as the natives might have broughtdown; for I judged this would be the case, as they knew nothing of oursailing. The event proved that I was not mistaken; for the boats made twotrips before night, when we hoisted them in, and made sail to the N. W. , with a light breeze at N. N. E. 

 [1] "The joy which this fortunate event spread on every countenance, is scarcely to be described. We had been one hundred and three days out of sight of land; and the rigorous weather to the south, the fatigues of continual attendance during storms, or amidst dangerous masses of ice, the sudden changes of climate, and the long continuance of a noxious diet, all together had emaciated and worn out our crew. The expectation of a speedy end to their sufferings, and the hope of finding the land stocked with abundance of fowls and planted with fruits, according to the accounts of the Dutch navigator, now filled them with uncommon alacrity and cheerfulness. "--G. F. 

 Captain Cook was much indebted for now falling in with this island, to the superior means he possessed of ascertaining his longitude. Byron, Carteret, and Bouganville, all missed it, although they took their departure from no greater a distance than the islands of Juan Fernandez. Most of the writers who mention Easter Island, agree pretty well together as to its latitude, but the Spanish accounts are not less than thirty leagues erroneous as to its longitude. --E. 

 [2] See this in vol. XI. P. 95 of this collection; but the description afterwards given is much more satisfactory. --E. 

 [3] "He was of the middle size, about five feet eight inches high, and remarkably hairy on the breast, and all over the body. His colour was a chesnut brown, his beard strong, but clipped short, and of a black colour, as was also the hair of his head, which was likewise cut short. His ears were very long, almost hanging on his shoulders, and his legs punctured in compartments after a taste which we had observed no where else. He had only a belt round his middle, from whence a kind of net-work descended before, too thin to conceal any thing from the sight. A string was tied about his neck, and a flat bone, something shaped like a tongue, and about four inches long, was fastened to it, and hung down on the breast. This he told us, was a porpoise's bone (eavee toharra) expressing it exactly by the same words which an Otaheitean would have made use of. Mahine, who had already expressed his impatience to go ashore, was much pleased to find that the inhabitants spoke a language so similar to his own, and attempted to converse with our new visitor several times, but was interrupted by the questions which many other persons in the ship put to him. "--G. F. 

 [4] "Almost all of them were naked, some having only a belt round the middle, from whence a small bit of cloth, six or eight inches long, or a little net, hang down before. A very few of them had a cloak which reached to the knees, made of cloth, resembling that of Otaheite in the texture, and stitched or quilted with thread to make it the more lasting. Most of these cloaks were painted yellow with the turmeric root. "--G. F. 

 [5] "After staying among the natives for some time on the beach, we began to walk into the country. The whole ground was covered with roots and stones of all sizes, which seemed to have been exposed to a great fire, where they had acquired a black colour and porous appearance. Two or three shrivelled species of grasses grew up among these stones, and in a slight degree softened the desolate appearance of the country. About fifteen yards from the landing place, we saw a perpendicular wall of square hewn stones, about a foot and a half or two feet long, and one foot broad. Its greatest height was about seven or eight feet, but it gradually sloped on both sides, and its length might be about twenty yards. A remarkable circumstance was the junction of these stones, which were laid after the most excellent rules of art, fitting in such a manner as to make a durable piece of architecture. The stone itself, of which they are cut, is not of great hardness, being a blackish brown cavernous and brittle stony lava. The ground rose from the water side upwards; so that another wall, parallel to the first, about twelve yards from it, and facing the country, was not above two or three feet high. The whole area between the two walls was filled up with soil and covered over with grass. About fifty yards farther to the south, there was another elevated area, of which the surface was paved with square stones exactly similar to those which formed the walls. In the midst of this area, there was a pillar consisting of a single stone, which represented a human figure to the waist, about twenty feet high, and upwards of five feet wide. The workmanship of this figure was rude, and spoke the arts in their infancy. The eyes, nose, and mouth, were scarcely marked on a lumpish ill-shaped head; and the ears, which were excessively long, quite in the fashion of the country, were better executed than any other part, though a European artist would have been ashamed of them. The neck was clumsy and short, and the shoulders and arms very slightly represented. On the top of the head a huge round cylinder of stone was placed upright, being above five feet in diameter and in height. This cap, which resembled the head-dress of some Egyptian divinity, consisted of a different stone from the rest of the pillar, being of a more reddish colour; and had a hole on each side, as if it had been made round by turning. The cap, together with the head, made one half of the whole pillar which appeared above ground. We did not observe that the natives paid any worship to these pillars, yet they seemed to hold them in some kind of veneration, as they sometimes expressed a dislike when we walked over the paved area or pedestals, or examined the stones of which it consisted. A few of the natives accompanied us farther on into the country, where we had seen some bushes at a distance, which we hoped would afford us something new. Our road was intolerably rugged, over heaps of volcanic stones, which rolled away under our feet, and against which we continually hurt ourselves. The natives who were accustomed to this desolate ground, skipped nimbly from stone to stone without the least difficulty. In our way we saw several black rats running about, which it seems are common to every island in the South Sea. Being arrived at the shrubbery which we had in view, we found it was nothing but a small plantation of the paper mulberry, of which here, as well as at Otaheite, they make their cloth. Its stems were from two to four feet high, and planted in rows, among very large rocks, where the rains had washed a little soil together. In the neighbourhood of these we saw some bushes of the _hibiscus populneus_, Linn, which is common also in the Society Isles, where it is one of the numerous plants made use of to dye yellow; and likewise a _mimosa_, which is the only shrub that affords the natives sticks for their clubs and patoo-patoos, and wood sufficient to patch up a canoe. We found the face of the country more barren and ruinous the farther we advanced. The small number of inhabitants, who met us at the landing-place, seemed to have been the bulk of the nation, since we met no other people on our walk; and yet for these few we did not see above ten or twelve huts, though the view commanded a great part of the island. One of the sightliest of these was situated on a little hillock, about half a mile from the sea, which we ascended. Its construction was such as evinced the poverty and wretched condition of its owners. The natives told us they passed the night in these huts; and we easily conceived their situation to be uncomfortable, especially as we saw so very few of them, that they must be crammed full, unless the generality of the people lie in the open air, and leave these wretched dwellings to their chiefs, or make use of them only in bad weather. Besides these huts, we observed some heaps of stones piled up into little hillocks, which had one steep perpendicular side, where a hole went under ground. The space within could be but very small, and yet it is very probable that these cavities served to give shelter to the people during night. They may, however, communicate with natural caverns, which are very common in the lava currents of volcanic countries. We should have been glad to have ascertained this circumstance, but the natives always denied us admittance into these places. "--G. F. 

 [6] "Captain Cook had not been very fortunate in trading with the people. They seemed indeed to be so destitute as to have no provisions to spare. A few matted baskets full of sweet potatoes, some sugar- canes, bunches of bananas, and two or three small fowls ready dressed, were the whole purchase which he had made for a few iron tools, and some Otaheite cloth. He had presented the people with beads, but they always threw them away with contempt, as far as ever they could. Whatever else they saw about us, they were desirous of possessing, though they had nothing to give in return. --G. F. 

SECTION VIII. 

_A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, andInhabitants; their Manners and Customs; Conjectures concerning theirGovernment, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular Account ofthe gigantic Statues. _

I shall now give some farther account of this island, which is undoubtedlythe same that Admiral Roggewein touched at in April 1722; although thedescription given of it by the authors of that voyage does by no meansagree with it now. It may also be the same that was seen by Captain Davisin 1686; for, when seen from the east, it answers very well to Wafer'sdescription, as I have before observed. In short, if this is not the land, his discovery cannot lie far from the coast of America, as this latitudehas been well explored from the meridian of 80° to 110°. Captain Carteretcarried it much farther; but his track seems to have been a little too farsouth. Had I found fresh water, I intended spending some days in lookingfor the low sandy isle Davis fell in with, which would have determined thepoint. But as I did not find water, and had a long run to make before I wasassured of getting any, and being in want of refreshments, I declined thesearch; as a small delay might have been attended with bad consequences tothe crew, many of them beginning to be more or less affected with thescurvy. 

No nation need contend for the honour of the discovery of this island, asthere can be few places which afford less convenience for shipping than itdoes. Here is no safe anchorage, no wood for fuel, nor any fresh waterworth taking on board. Nature has been exceedingly sparing of her favoursto this spot. As every thing must be raised by dint of labour, it cannot besupposed that the inhabitants plant much more than is sufficient forthemselves; and as they are but few in number, they cannot have much tospare to supply the wants of visitant strangers. The produce is sweetpotatoes, yams, tara or eddy root, plantains, and sugar-canes, all prettygood, the potatoes especially, which are the best of the kind I evertasted. Gourds they have also, but so very few, that a cocoa-nut shell wasthe most valuable thing we could give them. They have a few tame fowls, such as cocks and hens, small but well tasted. They have also rats, whichit seems they eat; for I saw a man with some dead ones in his hand, and heseemed unwilling to part with them, giving me to understand they were forfood. Of land-birds there were hardly any, and sea-birds but few; thesewere men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, noddies, tern, &c. The coast seemednot to abound with fish, at least we could catch none with hook and line, and it was but very little we saw among the natives. 

Such is the produce of Easter Island, or Davis's Land, which is situated inlatitude 27° 5' 30" S. , longitude 109° 46' 20" W. It is about ten or twelveleagues in circuit, hath a hilly and stony surface, and an iron-boundshore. The hills are of such a height as to be seen fifteen or sixteenleagues. Off the south end, are two rocky islets, lying near the shore. Thenorth and east points of the island rise directly from the sea to aconsiderable height; between them and the S. E. Side, the shore forms anopen bay, in which I believe the Dutch anchored. We anchored, as hath beenalready mentioned, on the west side of the island, three miles to the northof the south point, with the sandy beach bearing E. S. S. This is a very goodroad with easterly winds, but a dangerous one with westerly; as the otheron the S. E. Side must be with easterly winds. 

For this, and other bad accommodations already mentioned, nothing butnecessity will induce any one to touch at this isle, unless it can be donewithout going much out of the way; in which case, touching here may beadvantageous, as the people willingly and readily part with suchrefreshments as they have, and at an easy rate. We certainly received greatbenefit from the little we got; but few ships can come here without beingin want of water, and this want cannot be here supplied. The little we tookon board, could not be made use of, it being only salt water which hadfiltered through a stony beach into a stone well; this the natives had madefor the purpose, a little to the southward of the sandy beach so oftenmentioned, and the water ebbed and flowed into it with the tide. 

The inhabitants of this island do not seem to exceed six or seven hundredsouls, and above two-thirds of those we saw were males. They either havebut few females amongst them, or else many were restrained from makingtheir appearance during our stay, for though we saw nothing to induce us tobelieve the men were of a jealous disposition, or the women afraid toappear in public, something of this kind was probably the case. [1]

In colour, features, and language, they bear such an affinity to the peopleof the more western isles, that no one will doubt they have had the sameorigin. It is extraordinary that the same nation should have spreadthemselves over all the isles in this vast ocean, from New Zealand to thisisland, which is almost one-fourth part of the circumference of the globe. Many of them have now no other knowledge of each other, than what ispreserved by antiquated tradition; and they have, by length of time, become, as it were, different nations, each having adopted some peculiarcustom or habit, &c. Nevertheless, a careful observer will soon see theaffinity each has to the other. In general, the people of this isle are aslender race. I did not see a man that would measure six feet; so far arethey from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyageasserts. They are brisk and active, have good features, and notdisagreeable countenances; are friendly and hospitable to strangers, but asmuch addicted to pilfering as any of their neighbours. 

_Tattowing_, or puncturing the skin, is much used here. The men aremarked from head to foot, with figures all nearly alike; only some givethem one direction, and some another, as fancy leads. The women are butlittle punctured; red and white paint is an ornament with _them_, asalso with the men; the former is made of turmeric, but what composes thelatter I know not. 

Their clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth, about six feet by four, or a mat. One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over theirshoulders, make a complete dress. But the men, for the most part, are in amanner naked, wearing nothing but a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, eachend of which is fastened to a cord or belt they wear round the waist. Theircloth is made of the same materials as at Otaheite, viz. Of the bark of thecloth-plant; but, as they have but little of it, our Otaheitean cloth, orindeed any sort of it, came here to a good market. 

Their hair in general is black; the women wear it long, and sometimes tiedup on the crown of the head; but the men wear it, and their beards, croppedshort. Their headdress is a round fillet adorned with feathers, and a strawbonnet something like a Scotch one; the former, I believe, being chieflyworn by the men, and the latter by the women. Both men and women have verylarge holes, or rather slits, in their ears, extending to near three inchesin length. They sometimes turn this slit over the upper part, and then theear looks as if the flap was cut off. The chief ear-ornaments are the whitedown of feathers, and rings, which they wear in the inside of the hole, made of some elastic substance, rolled up like a watch-spring. I judgedthis was to keep the hole at its utmost extension. I do not remember seeingthem wear any other ornaments, excepting amulets made of bone or shells. [2]

As harmless and friendly as these people seemed to be, they are not withoutoffensive weapons, such as short wooden clubs and spears; the latter ofwhich are crooked sticks about six feet long, armed at one end with piecesof flint. They have also a weapon made of wood, like the _Patoo patoo_of New Zealand. 

Their houses are low miserable huts, constructed by setting sticks uprightin the ground, at six or eight feet distance, then bending them towardseach other, and tying them together at the top, forming thereby a kind ofGothic arch. The longest sticks are placed in the middle, and shorter oneseach way, and a less distance asunder, by which means the building ishighest and broadest in the middle, and lower and narrower towards eachend. To these are tied others horizontally, and the whole is thatched overwith leaves of sugar-cane. The door-way is in the middle of one side, formed like a porch, and so low and narrow, as just to admit a man to enterupon all fours. The largest house I saw was about sixty feet long, eight ornine feet high in the middle, and three or four at each end; its breadth, at these parts, was nearly equal to its height. Some have a kind of vaultedhouses built with stone, and partly under ground; but I never was in one ofthese. 

I saw no household utensils among them, except gourds, and of these butvery few. They were extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut shells, more so than ofany thing we could give them. They dress their victuals in the same manneras at Otaheite; that is, with hot stones in an oven or hole in the ground. The straw or tops of sugar-cane, plantain heads, &c. Serve them for fuel toheat the stones. Plantains, which require but little dressing, they roastunder fires of straw, dried grass, &c. And whole races of them are ripenedor roasted in this manner. We frequently saw ten or a dozen, or more, suchfires in one place, and most commonly in the mornings and evenings. 

Not more than three or four canoes were seen on the whole island, and thesevery mean, and built of many pieces sewed together with small line. Theyare about eighteen or twenty feet long, head and stem carved or raised alittle, are very narrow, and fitted with out-riggers. They do not seemcapable of carrying above four persons, and are by no means fit for anydistant navigation. As small and mean as these canoes were, it was a matterof wonder to us, where they got the wood to build them with; for in one ofthem was a board six or eight feet long, fourteen inches broad at one end, and eight at the other; whereas we did not see a stick on the island thatwould have made a board half this size, nor, indeed, was there anotherpiece in the whole canoe half so big. 

There are two ways by which it is possible they may have got this largewood; it might have been left here by the Spaniards, or it might have beendriven on the shore of the island from some distant land. It is evenpossible that there may be some land in the neighbourhood, from whence theymight have got it. We, however, saw no signs of any, nor could we get theleast information on this head from the natives, although we tried everymethod we could think of to obtain it. We were almost as unfortunate in ourenquiries for the proper or native name of the island; for, on comparingnotes, I found we had got three different names for it, viz. Tamareki, Whyhu, and Teapy. Without pretending to say which, or whether any of themis right, I shall only observe, that the last was obtained by Oedidee, whounderstood their language much better than any of us, though even heunderstood it but very imperfectly. 

It appears by the account of Roggewein's voyage, that these people had nobetter vessels than when he first visited them. The want of materials, andnot of genius, seems to be the reason why they have made no improvement inthis art. Some pieces of carving were found amongst them, both welldesigned and executed. [3] Their plantations are prettily laid out by line, but not inclosed by any fence; indeed they have nothing for this purposebut stones. 

I have no doubt that all these plantations are private property, and thatthere are here, as at Otaheite, chiefs (which they call _Areekes_) towhom these plantations belong. But of the power or authority of thesechiefs, or of the government of these people, I confess myself quiteignorant. 

Nor are we better acquainted with their religion. The gigantic statues, sooften mentioned, are not, in my opinion, looked upon as idols by thepresent inhabitants, whatever they might have been in the days of theDutch; at least I saw nothing that could induce me to think so. On thecontrary, I rather suppose that they are burying-places for certain tribesor families. I, as well as some others, saw a human skeleton lying in oneof the platforms, just covered with stones. Some of these platforms ofmasonry are thirty or forty feet long, twelve or sixteen broad, and fromthree to twelve in height; which last in some measure depends on the natureof the ground; for they are generally at the brink of the bank facing thesea, so that this face may be ten or twelve feet or more high, and theother may not be above three or four. They are built, or rather faced, withhewn stones, of a very large size; and the workmanship is not inferior tothe best plain piece of masonry we have in England. They use no sort ofcement, yet the joints are exceedingly close, and the stones morticed andtenanted one into another, in a very artful manner. The side-walls are notperpendicular, but inclining a little inwards, in the same manner thatbreast-works, &c. Are built in Europe; yet had not all this care, pains, and sagacity, been able to preserve these curious structures from theravages of all-devouring time. 

The statues, or at least many of them, are erected on these platforms, which serve as foundations. They are, as near as we could judge, about halflength, ending in a sort of stump at the bottom, on which they stand. Theworkmanship is rude, but not bad; nor are the features of the face illformed, the nose and chin in particular; but the ears are long beyondproportion; and, as to the bodies, there is hardly any thing like a humanfigure about them. 

I had an opportunity of examining only two or three of these statues, whichare near the landing-place; and they were of a grey stone, seemingly of thesame sort as that with which the platforms were built. But some of thegentlemen, who travelled over the island, and examined many of them, wereof opinion that the stone of which they were made, was different from anythey saw on the island, and had much the appearance of being factitious. Wecould hardly conceive how these islanders, wholly unacquainted with anymechanical power, could raise such stupendous figures, and afterwards placethe large cylindric stones before mentioned upon their heads. The onlymethod I can conceive, is by raising the upper end by little and little, supporting it by stones as it is raised, and building about it till theygot it erect; thus a sort of mount or scaffolding would be made, upon whichthey might roll the cylinder, and place it upon the head of the statue, andthen the stones might be removed from about it. But if the stones arefactitious, the statues might have been put together on the place, in theirpresent position, and the cylinder put on by building a mount round them, as above mentioned. But, let them have been made and set up by this or anyother method, they must have been a work of immense time, and sufficientlyshew the ingenuity and perseverance of these islanders in the age in whichthey were built; for the present inhabitants have most certainly had nohand in them, as they do not even repair the foundations of those which aregoing to decay. They give different names to them, such as Gotomoara, Marapate, Kanaro, Goway-too-goo, Matta Matta, &c. &c. To which theysometimes prefix the word Moi, and sometimes annex Areeke. The lattersignifies chief, and the former burying, or sleeping-place, as well as wecould understand. [4]

Besides the monuments of antiquity, which were pretty numerous, and nowhere but on or near the sea-coast, there were many little heaps of stones, piled up in different places along the coast. Two or three of the uppermoststones in each pile were generally white, perhaps always so, when the pileis complete. It will hardly be doubted that these piles of stone had ameaning; probably they might mark the place where people had been buried, and serve instead of the large statues. 

The working-tools of these people are but very mean, and, like those of allthe other islanders we have visited in this ocean, made of stone, bone, shells, &c. They set but little value on iron or iron tools, which is themore extraordinary, as they know their use; but the reason may be, theirhaving but little occasion for them. 

 [1] "It was impossible for us to guess at the cause of this disproportion in the number of the different sexes; but as all the women we saw were very liberal of their favours, I conjectured at that time, that the married and the modest, who might be supposed to form the greater part, did not care to come near us, or were forced by the men to stay at their dwellings in the remote parts of the island. These few who appeared were the most lascivious of their sex, that perhaps have ever been noticed in any country, and shame seemed to be entirely unknown to them. "--G. F. 

 [2] "They were inferior in stature to the natives of the Society and Friendly Isles, and to those of New Zealand, there being not a single person amongst them, who might be reckoned tall. Their body was likewise lean, and their face much thinner than that of any people we had hitherto seen in the South Sea. Both sexes had thin, but not savage features, though the little shelter which their barren country offers against the sunbeams, had contracted their brows sometimes, and drawn the muscles of their face up towards the eye. Their noses were not very broad, but rather flat between the eyes; their lips strong, though not so thick as those of negroes; and their hair black and curling, but always cut short, so as not to exceed three inches. Their eyes were dark-brown, and rather small, the white being less clear than in other nations of the South Seas. "--G. F. 

 [3] "These were human figures made of narrow pieces of wood about eighteen inches or two feet long, and wrought in a much neater and more proportionate manner than we could have expected, after seeing the rude sculpture of the statues. They were made to represent persons of both sexes; the features were not very pleasing, and the whole figure was much too long to be natural; however, there was something characteristic in them, which shewed a taste for the arts. The wood of which they were made was finely polished, close grained, and of a dark-brown, like that of the casuarina. Mahine was most pleased with these carved human figures, the workmanship of which much excelled those of the _e tees_ in his country, and he purchased several of them, assuring us they would be greatly valued at Otaheite. As he took great pains to collect these curiosities, he once met with a figure of a woman's hand, carved of a yellowish wood, nearly of the natural size. Upon examination, its fingers were all bent upwards, as they are in the action of dancing at Otaheite, and its nails were represented very long, extending at least three-fourths of an inch beyond the fingers end. The wood of which it was made was the rare perfume wood of Otaheite, with the chips of which they communicate fragrance to their oils. We had neither seen this wood growing, nor observed the custom of wearing long nails at this island, and therefore were at a loss to conceive how this piece of well-executed carving could be met with there. Mahine afterwards presented this piece to my father, who in his turn made a present of it to the British Museum. "--G. F. 

 [4] "The most diligent enquiries on our part, have not been sufficient to throw clear light on the surprising objects which struck our eyes in this island. We may, however, attempt to account for these gigantic monuments, of which great numbers exist in every part; for as they are so disproportionate to the present strength of the nation, it is most reasonable to look upon them as the remains of better times. The nearest calculation we could make, never brought the number of inhabitants in this island beyond seven hundred, who, destitute of tools, of shelter and clothing, are obliged to spend all their time in providing food to support their precarious existence. It is obvious that they are too much occupied with their wants, to think of forming statues, which would cost them ages to finish, and require their united strength to erect. Accordingly, we did not see a single instrument among them in all our excursions, which could have been of the least use in masonry or sculpture. We neither met with any quarries, where they had recently dug the materials, nor with unfinished statues, which we might have considered as the work of the present race. It is therefore probable, that these people were formerly more numerous, more opulent and happy, when they could spare sufficient time, to flatter the vanity of their princes, by perpetuating their names by lasting monuments. The remains of plantations found on the summits of the hub, give strength and support to this conjecture. It is not in our power to determine by what various accidents a nation so flourishing, could be reduced in number, and degraded to its present indigence. But we are well convinced that many causes may produce this effect, and that the devastation which a volcano might make, is alone sufficient to heap a load of miseries on a people confined to so small a space. In fact, this island, which may perhaps, in remote ages, have been produced by a volcano, since all its minerals are merely volcanic, has at least in all likelihood been destroyed by its fire. All kinds of trees and plants, all-domestic animals, nay a great part of the nation itself, may have perished in the dreadful convulsion of nature: Hunger and misery must have been but too powerful enemies to those who escaped the fire. We cannot well account for these little carved images which we saw among the natives, and the representation of a dancing woman's hand, which are made of a kind of wood at present not to be met with upon the island. The only idea which offers itself is, that they were made long ago, and have been saved by accident or predilection, at the general catastrophe which seems to have happened. In numberless circumstances the people agree with the tribes who inhabit New Zealand, the Friendly and the Society Islands, and who seem to have had one common origin with them. Their features are very similar, so that the general character may easily be distinguished. Their colour a yellowish brown, most like the hue of the New Zealanders; their art of puncturing, the use of the mulberry-bark for clothing, the predilection for red paint and red dresses, the shape and workmanship of their clubs, the mode of dressing their victuals, all form a strong resemblance to the natives of these islands. We may add, the simplicity of their languages, that of Easter Island being a dialect, which, in many respects, resembles that of New Zealand, especially in the harshness of pronunciation and the use of gutturals, and yet, in other instances, partakes of that of Otaheite. The monarchical government likewise strengthens the affinity between the Easter Islanders and the tropical tribes, its prerogatives being only varied according to the different degrees of fertility of the islands, and the opulence or luxury of the people. The statues, which are erected in honour of their kings, have a great affinity to the wooden figures called Tea, on the chief's marais or burying- places, at Otaheite; but we could not possibly consider them as idols. The disposition of these people is far from being warlike; their numbers are too inconsiderable and their poverty too general, to create civil disturbances amongst them. It is equally improbable that they have foreign wars, since hitherto we know of no island near enough to admit of an interview between the inhabitants; neither could we obtain any intelligence from those of Easter Island upon the subject. This being premised, it is extraordinary that they should have different kinds of offensive weapons, and especially such as resemble those of the New Zealanders; and we must add this circumstance to several others which are inexplicable to us. Upon the whole, supposing Easter Island to have undergone a late misfortune from volcanic fires, its inhabitants are more to be pitied than any less civilized society, being acquainted with a number of conveniences, comforts, and luxuries of life, which they formerly possessed, and of which the remembrance must embitter the loss. "--G. P. 

 Forster the father is decided in opinion, as to the revolution that has undoubtedly occurred in this island, being occasioned by a volcano and earthquake, and gives a very curious account of a notion prevalent amongst the Society Isles, and forming indeed part of their mythological creed, which, if to be credited, affords support to it. The subject altogether is of a most interesting and important nature, but cannot possibly be investigated or even specified in an adequate manner in this place. We hope to do it justice hereafter. --E. 

SECTION IX. 

_The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands. Transactionsand Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre de Dios, orResolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina. _

After leaving Easter Island, I steered N. W. By N. And N. N. W. , with a fineeasterly gale, intending to touch at the Marquesas, if I met with nothingbefore I got there. We had not been long at sea, before the biliousdisorder made another attack upon me, but not so violent as the former. Ibelieve this second visit was owing to exposing and fatiguing myself toomuch at Easter Island. 

On the 22d, being in the latitude of 19° 20' S. , longitude 114° 49' W. , steered N. W. Since leaving Easter Island, the variation had not been morethan 3° 4', nor less than 2° 32' E. ; but on the 26th, at six a. M. , inlatitude 15° 7' S. , longitude 119° 45' W. , it was no more than 1° 1' E. ;after which it began to increase. 

On the 29th, being in the latitude of 10° 20', longitude 123° 58' W. , altered the course to W. N. W. , and the next day to west, being then inlatitude 9° 24', which I judged to be the parallel of Marquesas; where, asI have before observed, I intended to touch, in order to settle theirsituation, which I find different in different charts. Having now a steadysettled trade-wind, and pleasant weather, I ordered the forge to be set up, to repair and make various necessary articles in the iron way; and thecaulkers had already been some time at work caulking the decks, weather-works, &c. 

As we advanced to the west, we found the variation to increase but slowly;for, on the 3d of April, it was only 4° 40' E. , being then in the latitudeof 9° 32', longitude 132° 45', by observation made at the same time. 

I continued to steer to the west till the 6th, at four in the afternoon, atwhich time, being in the latitude of 9° 20', longitude 138° 14' W. , wediscovered an island, bearing west by south, distant about nine leagues. Two hours after we saw another, bearing S. W. By S. , which appeared moreextensive than the former. I hauled up for this island, and ran under aneasy sail all night, having squally unsettled rainy weather, which is notvery uncommon in this sea, when near high land. At six o'clock the nextmorning, the first island bore N. W. , the second S. W. 1/2 W. , and a third W. I gave orders to steer for the separation between the two last; and soonafter, a fourth was seen, still more to the west. By this time, we werewell assured that these were the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595. The first isle was a new discovery, which I named Hood's Island, after theyoung gentleman who first saw it, the second was that of Saint Pedro, thethird La Dominica, and the fourth St Christina. We ranged the S. E. . Coast ofLa Dominica, without seeing the least signs of anchorage, till we came tothe channel that divides it from St Christina, through which we passed, hauled over for the last-mentioned island, and ran along the coast to theS. W. In search of Mendana's Port. We passed several coves in which thereseemed to be anchorage; but a great surf broke on all the shores. Somecanoes put off from these places, and followed us down the coast. 

At length, having come before the port we were in search of, we attemptedto turn into it, the wind being right out; but as it blew in violentsqualls from this high land, one of these took us just after we had put instays, payed the ship off again, and before she wore round, she was withina few yards of being driven against the rocks to leeward. This obliged usto stand out to sea, and to make a stretch to windward; after which westood in again, and without attempting to turn, anchored in the entrance ofthe bay in thirty-four fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom. This was nosooner done, than about thirty or forty of the natives came off to us inten or twelve canoes; but it required some address to get them alongside. At last a hatchet, and some spike-nails, induced the people in one canoe tocome under the quarter-gallery; after which, all the others put alongside, and having exchanged some breadfruit and fish for small nails, &c. Retiredashore, the sun being already set. We observed a heap of stones on the bowof each canoe, and every man to have a sling tied round his hand. 

Very early next morning, the natives visited us again in much greaternumbers than before; bringing with them bread-fruit, plantains, and onepig, all of which they exchanged for nails, &c. But in this traffic theywould frequently keep our goods, and make no return, till at last I wasobliged to fire a musket-ball over one man who had several times served usin this manner; after which they dealt more fairly; and soon after severalof them came on board. At this time we were preparing to warp farther intothe bay, and I was going in a boat, to look for the most convenient placeto moor the ship in. Observing too many of the natives on board, I said tothe officers, "You must look well after these people, or they willcertainly carry off something or other. " I had hardly got into the boat, before I was told they had stolen one of the iron stanchions from theopposite gang-way, and were making off with it. I ordered them to fire overthe canoe till I could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one. Butthe natives made too much noise for me to be heard, and the unhappy thiefwas killed at the third shot. Two others in the same canoe leapedoverboard, but got in again just as I came to them. The stanchion they hadthrown over board. One of them, a man grown, sat bailing the blood andwater out of the canoe, in a kind of hysteric laugh; the other, a youthabout fourteen or fifteen years of age, looked on the deceased with aserious and dejected countenance; we had afterwards reason to believe hewas his son. [1]

At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipitation. Ifollowed them into the bay, and prevailed upon the people in one canoe tocome alongside the boat, and receive some nails, and other things, which Igave them; this in some measure allayed their fears. Having taken a view ofthe bay, and found that fresh water, which we most wanted, was to be had, Ireturned on board, and carried out a kedge-anchor with three hawsers uponan end, to warp the ship in by, and hove short on the bower. One would havethought that the natives, by this time, would have been so sensible of theeffect of our fire-arms, as not to have provoked us to fire upon them anymore, but the event proved otherwise; for the boat had no sooner left thekedge-anchor, than two men in a canoe put off from the shore, took hold ofthe buoy rope, and attempted to drag it ashore, little considering what wasfast to it. Lest, after discovering their mistake, they should take awaythe buoy, I ordered a musket to be fired at them; the ball fell short, andthey took not the least notice of it; but a second having passed over them, they let go the buoy, and made for the shore. This was the last shot we hadoccasion to fire at any of them, while we lay at this place. It probablyhad more effect than killing the man, by shewing them that they were notsafe at any distance; at least we had reason to think so, for theyafterwards stood in great dread of the musket. Nevertheless, they wouldvery often be exercising their talent of thieving upon us, which I thoughtproper to put up with, as our stay was not likely to be long amongst them. The trouble these people gave us retarded us so long, that, before we wereready to heave the anchor, the wind began to increase, and blew in squallsout of the bay, so that we were obliged to lie fast. It was not long beforethe natives ventured off to us again. In the first canoe which came, was aman who seemed to be of some consequence; he advanced slowly, with a pig onhis shoulder, and speaking something which we did not understand. As soonas he got alongside, I made him a present of a hatchet and several otherarticles: In return, he sent in his pig; and was at last prevailed upon tocome himself up to the gang-way, where he made but a short stay. Thereception this man met with, induced the people in all the other canoes toput alongside; and exchanges were presently reestablished. 

Matters being thus settled on board, I went on shore with a party of men, to see what was to be done there. We were received by the natives withgreat courtesy; and, as if nothing had happened, trafficked with them forsome fruit and a few small pigs; and after loading the launch with water, returned aboard. After dinner I sent the boats ashore for water, under theprotection of a guard; on their landing, the natives all fled but one man, and he seemed much frightened; afterwards one or two more came down, andthese were all that were seen this afternoon. We could not conceive thereason of this sudden fright. 

Early in the morning of the 9th, the boats were sent as usual for water;and just as they were coming off, but not before, some of the natives madetheir appearance. After breakfast I landed some little time before theguard, when the natives crowded round me in great numbers; but as soon asthe guard landed, I had enough to do to keep them from running off: Atlength their fears vanished, and a trade was opened for fruit and pigs. Ibelieve the reason of the natives flying from our people the day before, was their not seeing me at the head of them; for they certainly would havedone the same to-day, had I not been present. About noon, a chief of someconsequence, attended by a great number of people, came down to thelanding-place. I presented him with such articles as I had with me, and, inreturn, he gave me some of his ornaments. After these mutual exchanges, agood understanding seemed to be established between us; so that we got byexchanges as much fruit as loaded two boats, with which we returned onboard to dinner; but could not prevail on the chief to accompany us. 

In the afternoon, the watering and trading parties were sent on shore, though the latter got but little, as most of the natives had retired intothe country. A party of us went to the other, or southern cove of the bay, where I procured five pigs, and came to the house which, we were told, didbelong to the man we had killed. He must have been a person of some note, as there were six pigs in and about his house, which we were told belongedto his son, who fled on our approach. I wanted much to have seen him, tomake him a present, and, by other kind treatment, to convince him and theothers that it was not from any bad design against the nation, that we hadkilled his father. It would have been to little purpose if I had left anything in the house, as it certainly would have been taken by others;especially as I could not sufficiently explain to them my meaning. Stricthonesty was seldom observed when the property of our things came to bedisputed. I saw a striking instance of this in the morning, when I wasgoing ashore. A man in a canoe offered me a small pig for a six-inch spike, and another man being employed to convey it, I gave him the spike, which hekept for himself, and instead of it, gave to the man who owned the pig asixpenny nail. Words of course arose, and I waited to see how it would end;but as the man who had possession of the spike seemed resolved to keep it, I left them before it was decided. In the evening we returned on board withwhat refreshments we had collected, and thought we had made a good day'swork. 

On the 10th, early in the morning, some people from more distant parts camein canoes alongside, and sold us some pigs; so that we had now sufficientto give the crew a fresh meal. They were, in general, so small, that fortyor fifty were hardly sufficient for this purpose. The trade on shore forfruit was as brisk as ever. After dinner, I made a little expedition in myboat along the coast to the south-ward, accompanied by some of thegentlemen: At the different places we touched at, we collected eighteenpigs; and I believe, might have got more. The people were exceedinglyobliging wherever we landed, and readily brought down whatever wedesired. [2]

Next morning I went down to the same place where we had been the precedingevening; but instead of getting pigs, as I expected, found the scene quitechanged. The nails and other things they were mad after but the eveningbefore, they now despised, and instead of them wanted they did not knowwhat; so that I was obliged to return, with three or four little pigs, which cost more than a dozen did the day before. When I got on board, Ifound the same change had happened there, as also at the trading place onshore. The reason was, several of the young gentlemen having landed thepreceding day, had given away in exchange various articles which the peoplehad not seen before, and which took with them more than nails or moreuseful iron tools. But what ruined our market the most, was one of themgiving for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers he had got atAmsterdam. None of us knew at this time, that this article was in suchestimation here; and, if I had known it, I could not have supported thetrade, in the manner it was begun, one day. Thus was our fine prospect ofgetting a plentiful supply of refreshments from these people frustrated;which will ever be the case so long as every one is allowed to makeexchanges for what he pleases, and in what manner be pleases. When I foundthis island was not likely to supply us, on any conditions, with sufficientrefreshments, such as we might expect to find at the Society Isles, norvery convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for giving the ship thenecessary repairs she wanted, I resolved forthwith to leave it, and proceedto some other place, where our wants might be effectually relieved. Forafter having been nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time upon saltdiet, we could not but want some refreshments; although I must own, andthat with pleasure, that on our arrival here, it could hardly be said wehad one sick man; and but a few who had the least complaint. This wasundoubtedly owing to the many antiscorbutic articles we had on board, andto the great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to applythem in time. 

 [1] Mr G. F. Represents this unhappy transaction in a somewhat different manner, affirming that an officer who happened to come on deck the moment after the second ineffectual shot, and who was totally ignorant of the nature of the offence committed, snatched up a musket and fired with such fatal precision. This might be the case unknown to Captain Cook, whose representation may be considered as perfectly according with his own immediate understanding of the circumstance, and not modified, for perhaps valid enough reasons, by subsequent information. The event, in any view of it that can be taken, is another melancholy proof of that unprincipled depreciation of human life, which so strongly characterizes men who are continually risking it at their own cost. The conduct of Mahine on this event, it seems, was very striking. He burst into tears, when he saw one man killing another on so trifling an occasion. "Let his feelings, " says Mr G. F. , "put those civilized Europeans to the blush, who have humanity so often on their lips, and so seldom in their hearts. "--E. 

 [2] Mr G. F. Strongly commends the friendly behaviour and conciliatory manners of the people. It is unnecessary to quote his words--E. 

SECTION X. 

_Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation, Extent, Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some Account of theInhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food, Weapons, andCanoes. _

At three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, and stood over from StChristina for La Dominica, in order to take a view of the west side of thatisle; but as it was dark before we reached it, the night was spent inplying between the two isles. The next morning we had a full view of theS. W. Point, from which the coast trended N. E. ; so that it was not probablewe should find good anchorage on that side, as being exposed to theeasterly winds. We had now but little wind, and that very variable, withshowers of rain. At length we got a breeze at E. N. E. With which we steeredto the south. At five o'clock p. M. , Resolution Bay bore E. N. E. 1/2 E. Distant five leagues, and the island Magdalena S. E. , about nine leaguesdistant. This was the only sight we had of this isle. From hence I steeredS. S. W. 1/2 W. For Otaheite, with a view of falling in with some of thoseisles discovered by former navigators, especially those discovered by theDutch, whose situations are not well determined. But it will be necessaryto return to the Marquesas; which were, as I have already observed, firstdiscovered by Mendana, a Spaniard, and from him obtained the general namethey now bear, as well as those of the different isles. The nauticalaccount of them, in vol. I. P. 61, of Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages tothe South Seas, is deficient in nothing but situation. This was my chiefreason for touching, at them; the settling this point is the more useful, as it will in a great measure fix the situations of Mendana's otherdiscoveries. 

The Marquesas are five in number, viz. La Magdalena, St Pedro, La Dominica, Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, which is the northernmost, situated inlatitude 9° 26' S. , and N. 13° W. , five leagues and a half distant from theeast point of La Dominica, which is the largest of all the isles, extendingeast and west six leagues. It hath an unequal breadth, and is about fifteenor sixteen leagues in circuit. It is full of rugged hills, rising in ridgesdirectly from the sea; these ridges are disjoined by deep vallies which areclothed with wood, as are the sides of some of the hills; the aspect, however, is barren; but it is, nevertheless, inhabited. Latitude 9° 44' 30"S. St Pedro, which is about three leagues in circuit, and of a good height, lies south, four leagues and a half from the east end of La Dominica; weknow not if it be inhabited. Nature has not been very bountiful to it. StChristina lies under the same parallel, three or four leagues more to thewest. This island stretches north and south, is nine miles long in thatdirection, and about seven leagues in circuit. A narrow ridge of hills ofconsiderable height extends the whole length of the island. There are otherridges, which, rising from the sea, and with an equal ascent, join the mainridge. These are disjoined by deep narrow vallies, which are fertile, adorned with fruit and other trees, and watered by fine streams ofexcellent water. La Magdalena we only saw at a distance. Its situation mustbe nearly in the latitude of 10° 25', longitude 138° 50'. So that theseisles occupy one degree in latitude, and near half a degree in longitude, viz. From 138° 47' to 139° 13' W. , which is the longitude of the west endof La Dominica. 

The port of Madre de Dios, which I named Resolution Bay, is situated nearthe middle of the west side of St Christina, and under the highest land inthe island, in latitude 9° 55' 30", longitude 139° 8' 40" W. ; and north 15'W. From the west end of La Dominica. The south point of the bay is a steeprock of considerable height, terminating at the top in a peaked hill, abovewhich you will see a path-way leading up a narrow ridge to the summits ofthe hills. The north point is not so high, and rises with a more gentleslope. They are a mile from each other, in the direction of N. By E. And S. By W. In the bay, which is near three quarters of a mile deep, and has fromthirty-four to twelve fathoms water, with a clean sandy bottom, are twosandy coves, divided from each other by a rocky point. In each is a rivuletof excellent water. The northern cove is the most commodious for woodingand watering. Here is the little water-fall mentioned by Quiros, Mendana'spilot; but the town, or village, is in the other cove. There are severalother coves, or bays, on this side of the island, and some of them, especially to the northward, may be mistaken for this; therefore, the bestdirection is the bearing of the west end of La Dominica. 

The trees, plants, and other productions of these isles, so far as we know, are nearly the same as at Otaheite and the Society Isles. The refreshmentsto be got are hogs, fowls, plantains, yams, and some other roots; likewisebread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, but of these not many. At first these articleswere purchased with nails. Beads, looking-glasses, and such trifles, whichare so highly valued at the Society Isles, are in no esteem here; and evennails at last lost their value for other articles far less useful. 

The inhabitants of these islands collectively, are, without exception, thefinest race of people in this sea. For fine shape and regular features, they perhaps surpass all other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity of theirlanguage to that spoken in Otaheite and the Society Isles, shews that theyare of the same nation. Oedidee could converse with them tolerably well, though we could not; but it was easy to see that their language was nearlythe same. 

The men are punctured, or curiously _tattowed_, from head to foot. Thefigures are various, and seem to be directed more by fancy than custom. These puncturations make them look dark: But the women, who are but littlepunctured, youths and young children, who are not at all, are as fair assome Europeans. The men are in general tall, that is, about five feet teninches, or six feet; but I saw none that were fat and lusty like the_Earees_ of Otaheite; nor did I see any that could be called meagre. Their teeth are not so good, nor are their eyes so full and lively as thoseof many other nations. Their hair, like ours, is of many colours, exceptred, of which I saw none. Some have it long, but the most general custom isto wear it short, except a bunch on each side of the crown, which they tiein a knot. They observe different modes in trimming the beard, which is ingeneral long. Some part it, and tie it in two bunches under the chin, others plait it, some wear it loose, and others quite short. 

Their clothing is the same as at Otaheite, and made of the same materials;but they have it not in such plenty, nor is it so good. The men, for themost part, have nothing to cover their nakedness, except the _Marra_, as it is called at Otaheite; which is a slip of cloth passed round thewaist and betwixt the legs; This simple dress is quite sufficient for theclimate, and answers every purpose modesty requires. The dress of the womenis a piece of cloth wrapped round the loins like a petticoat, which reachesdown below the middle of the leg, and a loose mantle over their shoulders. Their principal head-dress, and what appears to be their chief ornament, isa sort of broad fillet, curiously made of the fibres of the husk of cocoa-nuts. In the front is fixed a mother-o'-pearl shell wrought round to thesize of a tea saucer. Before that is another smaller one, of very finetortoise-shell, perforated into curious figures. Also before, and in thecentre of that, is another round piece of mother-o'-pearl, about the sizeof half-a-crown; and before this another piece of perforated tortoise-shell, about the size of a shilling. Besides this decoration in front, somehave it also on each side, but in smaller pieces; and all have fixed tothem, the tail feathers of cocks, or tropic birds, which, when the filletis tied on, stand upright; so that the whole together makes a very sightlyornament. They wear round the neck a kind of ruff or necklace, call itwhich you please, made of light wood, the out and upper side covered withsmall red pease, which are fixed on with gum. They also wear small bunchesof human hair, fastened to a string, and tied round the legs and arms. Sometimes, instead of hair, they make use of short feathers; but all theabove-mentioned ornaments are seldom seen on the same person. 

I saw only the chief, who came to visit us, completely dressed in thismanner. Their ordinary ornaments are necklaces and amulets made of shells, &c. I did not see any with ear-rings; and yet all of them had their earspierced. 

Their dwellings are in the vallies, and on the sides of the hills, neartheir plantations. They are built after the same manner as at Otaheite; butare much meaner, and only covered with the leaves of the bread-tree. Themost of them are built on a square or oblong pavement of stone, raised someheight above the level of the ground. They likewise have such pavementsnear their houses, on which they sit to eat and amuse themselves. 

In the article of eating, these people are by no means so cleanly as theOtaheiteans. They are likewise dirty in their cookery. Pork and fowls aredressed in an oven of hot stones, as at Otaheite; but fruit and roots theyroast on the fire, and after taking off the rind or skin, put them into aplatter or trough, with water, out of which I have seen both men and hogseat at the same time. I once saw them make a batter of fruit and rootsdiluted with water, in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, and out of whichthe hogs had been but that moment eating, without giving it the leastwashing, or even washing their hands, which were equally dirty; and when Iexpressed a dislike, was laughed at. I know not if all are so. The actionsof a few individuals are not sufficient to fix a custom on a whole nation. Nor can I say if it is the custom for men and women to have separatemesses. I saw nothing to the contrary: Indeed I saw but few women upon thewhole. 

They seemed to have dwellings, or strong-holds, on the summits of thehighest hills. These we only saw by the help of our glasses; for I did notpermit any of our people to go there, as we were not sufficientlyacquainted with the disposition of the natives, which (I believe) is humaneand pacific. 

Their weapons are clubs and spears, resembling those of Otaheite, butsomewhat neater. They have also slings, with which they throw stones withgreat velocity, and to a great distance, but not with a good aim. 

Their canoes are made of wood, and pieces of the bark of a soft tree, whichgrows near the sea in great plenty, and is very tough and proper for thepurpose. They are from sixteen to twenty feet long, and about fifteeninches broad; the head and stern are made of two solid pieces of wood; thestern rises or curves a little, but in an irregular direction, and ends ina point; the head projects out horizontally, and is carved into some faintand very rude resemblance of a human face. They are rowed by paddles, andsome have a sort of lateen sail, made of matting. 

Hogs were the only quadrupeds we saw; and cocks and hens the only tamefowls. However, the woods seemed to abound with small birds of a verybeautiful plumage, and fine notes; but the fear of alarming the nativeshindered us from shooting so many of them as might otherwise have beendone. [1]

 [1] Mr G. F. Concurs generally with Captain Cook in his account of the matters spoken of in this section, and is very particular in noticing the strong and distinct resemblance of the natives of the Marquesas to those of the Society Islands. What differences he remarked, he thinks may be specifically ascribed to the nature of the respective countries, whilst in his judgment the many points of identity imply a common origin. The reader, it is believed, will hereafter see the most reasonable grounds, for such an inference. --E. 

SECTION XI. 

_A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the Passage fromthe Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval Review. _

With a fine easterly wind I steered S. W. --S. W. By W. And W. By S. Till the17th, at ten o'clock in the morning, when land was seen bearing W. 1/2 N. , which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a string of low isletsconnected together by a reef of coral rocks. We ranged the northwest coast, at the distance of one mile from shore, to three quarters of its length, which in the whole is near four leagues, when we came to a creek or inletthat seemed to open a communication into the lake in the middle of theisle. As I wanted to obtain some knowledge of the produce of these half-drowned isles, we brought-to, hoisted out a boat, and sent the master in tosound; there being no soundings without. 

As we ran along the coast, the natives appeared in several places armedwith long spears and clubs; and some were got together on one side of thecreek. When the master returned he reported that there was no passage intothe lake by the creek, which was fifty fathoms wide at the entrance, andthirty deep; farther in, thirty wide, and twelve deep; that the bottom wasevery where rocky, and the sides bounded by a wall of coral rocks. We wereunder no necessity to put the ship into such a place as this; but as thenatives had shewn some signs of a friendly disposition, by coming peaceablyto the boat, and taking such things as were given them, I sent two boatswell armed ashore, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view ofhaving some intercourse with them, and to give Mr Forster an opportunity ofcollecting something in his way. We saw our people land without the leastopposition being made by a few natives who were on the shores. Some littletime after, observing forty or fifty more, all armed, coming to join them, we stood close in shore, in order to be ready to support our people in caseof an attack. But nothing of this kind happened; and soon after our boatsreturned aboard, when Mr Cooper informed me, that, on his landing, only afew of the natives met him on the beach, but there were many in the skirtsof the woods with spears in their hands. The presents he made them werereceived with great coolness, which plainly shewed we were unwelcomevisitors. When their reinforcement arrived he thought proper to embark, asthe day was already far spent, and I had given orders to avoid an attack byall possible means. When his men got into the boats, some were for pushingthem off, others for detaining them; but at last they suffered them todepart at their leisure. They brought aboard five dogs, which seemed to bein plenty there. They saw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which, they got, byexchanges, two dozen. One of our people got a dog for a single plantain, which led us to conjecture they had none of this fruit. [1]

This island, which is called by the inhabitants Ti-oo-kea, was discoveredand visited by Commodore Byron. It has something of an oval shape, is aboutten leagues in circuit, lying in the direction of E. S. E. And W. N. W. , andsituated in the latitude of 14° 27' 30" S. , longitude 144° 56' W. Theinhabitants of this island, and perhaps of all the low ones, are of a muchdarker colour than those of the higher islands, and seem to be of a moreferine disposition. This may be owing to their situation. Nature not havingbestowed her favours to these low islands with that profusion she has doneto some of the others, the inhabitants are chiefly beholden to the sea fortheir subsistence, consequently are much exposed to the sun and weather;and by that means become more dark in colour, and more hardy and robust;for there is no doubt of their being of the same nation. Our peopleobserved that they were stout, well-made men, and had the figure of a fishmarked on their bodies; a very good emblem of their profession. [2]

On the 18th, at day-break, after having spent the night snaking shortboards, we wore down to another isle we had in sight to the westward, whichwe reached by eight o'clock, and ranged the S. E. Side at one mile fromshore. We found it to be just such another as that we had left, extendingN. E. And S. W. Near four leagues, and from five to three miles broad. Itlies S. W. By W. , two leagues distant from the west end of Ti-oo-kea; andthe middle is situated in the latitude of 14° 37' S. , longitude 145° 10' W. These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the name ofGeorge's Islands. Their situation in longitude, which was determined bylunar observations made near the shores, and still farther corrected by thedifference of longitude carried by the watch to Otaheite, is 3° 54' moreeast than he says they lie. This correction, I apprehend, may be applied toall the islands he discovered. 

After leaving these isles, we steered S. S. W. 1/2 W. , and S. W. By S. , with afine easterly gale, having signs of the vicinity of land, particularly asmooth sea; and on the 19th, at seven in the morning, land was seen to thewestward, which we bore down to, and reached the S. E. End by nine o'clock. It proved to be another of these half-over-flowed or drowned islands, whichare so common in this part of the ocean; that is, a number of little islesranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef or wall of coralrock. The sea is in general, every-where, on their outside, unfathomable;all their interior parts are covered with water, abounding, I have beentold, with fish and turtle, on which the inhabitants subsist, and sometimesexchange the latter with the high islanders for cloth, &c. These inlandseas would be excellent harbours, were they not shut up from the access ofshipping, which is the case with most of them, if we can believe the reportof the inhabitants of the other isles. Indeed, few of them have been wellsearched by Europeans; the little prospect of meeting with fresh waterhaving generally discouraged every attempt of this kind. I, who have seen agreat many, have not yet seen an inlet into one. [3]

This island is situated in the latitude of 15° 26', longitude 146° 20'. Itis five leagues long in the direction of N. N. E. And S. S. W. And about threeleagues broad. As we drew near the south end, we saw from the mast-head, another of these low isles bearing S. E. , distant about four or fiveleagues, but being to windward we could not fetch it. Soon after a thirdappeared, bearing S. W. By S. , for which we steered; and at two o'clock p. M. Reached the east end, which is situated in latitude 15° 47' S. , longitude146° 30' W. This island extends W. N. W. And E. S. E. , and is seven leagueslong in that direction; but its breadth is not above two. It is, in allrespects, like the rest; only here are fewer islets, and less firm land onthe reef which incloses the lake. As we ranged the north coast, at thedistance of half a mile, we saw people, huts, canoes, and places built, seemingly for drying of fish. They seemed to be the same sort of people ason Ti-oo-kea, and were armed with long spikes like them. Drawing near thewest end, we discovered another or fourth island, bearing N. N. E. It seemedto be low, like the others, and lies west from the first isle, distant sixleagues. These four isles I called Palliser's Isles, in honour of my worthyfriend Sir Hugh Palliser, at this time comptroller of the navy. 

Not chusing to run farther in the dark, we spent the night making shortboards under the top-sail; and on the 20th, at day-break, hauled round thewest end of the third isle, which was no sooner done than we found a greatswell rolling in from the south; a sure sign that we were clear of theselow islands; and as we saw no more land, I steered S. W. 1/2 S. ForOtaheite, having the advantage of a stout gale at east, attended withshowers of rain. It cannot be determined with any degree of certaintywhether the group of isles we had lately seen, be any of those discoveredby the Dutch navigators, or no; the situation of their discoveries notbeing handed down to us with sufficient accuracy. It is, however, necessaryto observe, that this part of the ocean, that is, from the latitude of 20°down to 14° or 12°, and from the meridian of 138° to 148° or 150° W. , is sostrewed with these low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too muchcaution. 

We made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were aboutthirteen leagues E. Of Point Venus, for which we steered, and got prettywell in with it by sun set, when we shortened sail; and having spent thenight, which was squally with rain, standing on and off, at eight o'clockthe next morning anchored in Matavai Bay in seven fathoms water. This wasno sooner known to the natives, than many of them made us a visit, andexpressed not a little joy at seeing us again. [4]

As my chief reason for putting in at this place was to give Mr Wales anopportunity to know the error of the watch by the known longitude, and todetermine anew her rate of going, the first thing we did was to land hisinstruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a guard and such otherpeople as it was necessary to have on shore. Sick we had none; therefreshments we had got at the Marquesas had removed every complaint ofthat kind. 

On the 23d, showery weather. Our very good friends the natives supplied uswith fruit and fish sufficient for the whole crew. 

On the 24th, Otoo the king, and several other chiefs, with a train ofattendants, paid us a visit, and brought as presents ten or a dozen largehogs, besides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. I was advertisedof the king's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Knowing how muchit was my interest to make this man my friend, I met him at the tents, andconducted him and his friends on board, in my boat, where they staiddinner; after which they were dismissed with suitable presents, and highlypleased with the reception they had met with. 

Next day we had much thunder, lightning, and rain. This did not hinder theking from making me another visit, and a present of a large quantity ofrefreshments. It hath been already mentioned, that when we were at theisland of Amsterdam we had collected, amongst other curiosities, some redparrot feathers. When this was known here, all the principal people of bothsexes endeavoured to ingratiate themselves into our favour by bringing ushogs, fruit, and every other thing the island afforded, in order to obtainthese valuable jewels. Our having these feathers was a fortunatecircumstance, for as they were valuable to the natives, they became so tous; but more especially as my stock of trade was by this time greatlyexhausted; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, I should havefound it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessaryrefreshments. 

When I put in at this island, I intended to stay no longer than till MrWales had made the necessary observations for the purposes alreadymentioned, thinking we should meet with no better success than we did thelast time we were here. But the reception we had already met with, and thefew excursions we had made, which did not exceed the plains of Matavai andOparree, convinced us of our error. We found at these two places, built andbuilding, a great number of large canoes, and houses of every kind; peopleliving in spacious habitations who had not a place to shelter themselves ineight months before; several large hogs about every house; and every othersign of a rising state. [5]

Judging from these favourable circumstances that we should not mendourselves by removing to another island, I resolved to make a longer stay, and to begin with the repairs of the ship and stores, &c. Accordingly Iordered the empty casks and sails to be got ashore to be repaired; the shipto be caulked, and the rigging to be overhauled; all of which the highsouthern latitudes had made indispensably necessary. 

In the morning of the 26th, I went down to Oparree, accompanied by some ofthe officers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit by appointment. As we drewnear, we observed a number of large canoes in motion; but we weresurprised, when we arrived, to see upwards of three hundred ranged inorder, for some distance, along the shore, all completely equipped andmanned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected anarmament collected together in our neighbourhood, in the space of onenight, gave rise to various conjectures. We landed, however, in the midstof them, and were received by a vast multitude, many of them under arms, and many not. The cry of the latter was _Tiyo no Otoo_, and that ofthe former _Tiyo no Towha_. This chief, we afterwards learnt, wasadmiral or commander of the fleet and troops present. The moment we landedI was met by a chief whose name was Tee, uncle to the king, and one of hisprime ministers, of whom I enquired for Otoo. Presently after we were metby Towha, who received me with great courtesy. He took me by the one hand, and Tee by the other; and, without my knowing where they intended to carryme, dragged me, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into twoparties, both of which professed themselves my friends, by crying out_Tiyo no Tootee_. One party wanted me to go to Otoo, and the other toremain with Towha. Coming to the visual place of audience, a mat was spreadfor me to sit down upon, and Tee left me to go and bring the king. Towhawas unwilling I should sit down, partly insisting on my going with him;but, as I knew nothing of this chief, I refused to comply. Presently Teereturned, and wanted to conduct me to the king, taking hold of my hand forthat purpose. This Towha opposed; so that, between the one party and theother, I was like to have been torn in pieces; and was obliged to desireTee to desist, and to leave me to the admiral and his party, who conductedme down to the fleet. As soon as we came before the admiral's vessel, wefound two lines of armed men drawn up before her, to keep off the crowd, asI supposed, and to clear the way for me to go in. But, as I was determinednot to go, I made the water, which was between me and her, an excuse. Thisdid not answer; for a man immediately squatted himself down at my feet, offering to carry me; and then I declared I would not go. That very momentTowha quitted me, without my seeing which way he went, nor would any oneinform me. Turning myself round I saw Tee, who, I believe, had never lostsight of me. Enquiring of him for the king, he told me he was gone into thecountry Mataou, and advised me to go to my boat; which we accordingly did, as soon as we could get collected together; for Mr Edgcumbe was the onlyperson that could keep with me, the others being jostled about in thecrowd, in the same manner we had been. 

When we got into our boat, we took our time to view this grand fleet. Thevessels of war consisted of an hundred and sixty large double canoes, verywell equipped, manned, and armed. But I am not sure that they had theirfull complement of men or rowers; I rather think not. The chiefs, and allthose on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits; that is, ina vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and helmets. Some of thelatter were of such a length as greatly to encumber the wearer. Indeed, their whole dress seemed to be ill calculated for the day of battle, and tobe designed more for shew than use. Be this as it may, it certainly addedgrandeur to the prospect, as they were so complaisant as to shew themselvesto the best advantage. The vessels were decorated with flags, streamers, &c. ; so that the whole made a grand and noble appearance, such as we hadnever seen before in this sea, and what no one would have expected. Theirinstruments of war were clubs, spears, and stones. The vessels were rangedclose along-side of each other with their heads ashore, and their stern tothe sea; the admiral's vessel being nearly in the centre. Besides thevessels of war, there were an hundred and seventy sail of smaller doublecanoes, all with a little house upon them, and rigged with mast and sail, which the war canoes had not. These, we judged, were designed fortransports, victuallers, &c. ; for in the war-canoes was no sort ofprovisions whatever. In these three hundred and thirty vessels, I guessedthere were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty men; anumber which appears incredible, especially as we were told they allbelonged to the districts of Attahourou and Ahopatea. In this computation Iallow to each war canoe forty men, troops and rowers, and to each of thesmall canoes eight. Most of the gentlemen who were with me, thought thenumber of men belonging to the war canoes exceeded this. It is certain thatthe most of them were fitted to row with more paddles than I have allowedthem men; but, at this time, I think they were not complete. Tupia informedus, when I was first here, that the whole island raised only between sixand seven thousand men; but we now saw two districts only raise thatnumber; so that he must have taken his account from some old establishment;or else he only meant _Tatatous_, that is warriors, or men trainedfrom their infancy to arms, and did not include the rowers, and thosenecessary to navigate the other vessels. I should think he only spoke ofthis number as the standing troops or militia of the island, and not theirwhole force. This point I shall leave to be discussed in another place, andreturn to the subject. [6]

After we had well viewed this fleet, I wanted much to have seen theadmiral, to have gone with him on board the war-canoes. We enquired for himas we rowed past the fleet to no purpose. We put ashore and enquired; butthe noise and crowd was so great that no one attended to what we said. Atlast Tee came and whispered us in the ear, that Otoo was gone to Matavai, advising us to return thither, and not to land where we were. Weaccordingly proceeded for the ship; and this intelligence and advicereceived from Tee, gave rise to new conjectures. In short, we concludedthat this Towha was some powerful disaffected chief, who was upon the pointof making war against his sovereign; for we could not imagine Otoo had anyother reason for leaving Oparree in the manner he did. 

We had not been long gone from Oparree, before the whole fleet was inmotion to the westward, from whence it came. When we got to Matavai, ourfriends there told us, that this fleet was part of the armament intended togo against Eimea, whose chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite, andassumed an independency. We were likewise informed that Otoo neither wasnor had been at Matavai; so that we were still at a loss to know why hefled from Oparree. This occasioned another trip thither in the afternoon, where we found him, and now understood that the reason of his not seeing mein the morning was, that some of his people having stolen a quantity of myclothes which were on shore washing, he was afraid I should demandrestitution. He repeatedly asked me if I was not angry; and when I assuredhim that I was not, and that they might keep what they had got, he wassatisfied. Towha was alarmed, partly on the same account. He thought I wasdispleased when I refused to go aboard his vessel; and I was jealous ofseeing such a force in our neighbourhood without being able to know anything of its design. Thus, by mistaking one another, I lost the opportunityof examining more narrowly into part of the naval force of this isle, andmaking myself better acquainted with its manoeuvres. Such anotheropportunity may never occur; as it was commanded by a brave, sensible, andintelligent chief, who would have satisfied us in all the questions we hadthought proper to ask; and as the objects were before us, we could not wellhave misunderstood each other. It happened unluckily that Oedidee was notwith us in the morning; for Tee, who was the only man we could depend on, served only to perplex us. Matters being thus cleared up, and mutualpresents having passed between Otoo and me, we took leave and returned onboard. 

 [1] Mr G. F. , who was one of the party that went ashore, gives a sketch of the people. They were a set of stout men, of a dark-brown colour, not disagreeable features, with dark curling hair and beards, perfectly naked, and variously marked on different parts of the body. They had the New Zealand custom of touching noses as a salutation; and their language seemed a dialect of the Otaheitean. --E. 

 [2] The following remarks ought not to be omitted. --"Besides fish and vegetable food, these people have dogs which live upon fish, and are reckoned excellent meat by the natives of the Society Islands, to whom they are known. Thus Providence, in its wise dispensations, made even those insignificant narrow ledges rich enough in the productions of nature, to supply a whole race of men with the necessaries of life. And here we cannot but express our admiration, that the minutest agents are subservient to the purposes of the Almighty Creator. The coral is known to be the fabric of a little worm, which enlarges its house, in proportion as its own bulk increases. This little creature, which has scarce sensation enough to distinguish it from a plant, builds up a rocky structure from the bottom of a sea too deep to be measured by human art, till it readies the surface, and offers a firm basis for the residence of man! The number of these low islands is very great, and we are far from being acquainted with them all. In the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean, between the tropics, they are to be met with; however, they are remarkably frequent for the space of ten or fifteen degrees to the eastward of the Society Islands. Quiros, Schouten, Roggewein, Byron, Wallis, Carteret, Bougainville, and Cook, have each met with new islands in their different courses; and what is most remarkable, they have found them inhabited at the distance of two hundred and forty leagues to the east of Otaheite. Nothing is more probable than, that on every new track other islands of this kind will still be met with, and particularly between the 16th and 17th degree of S. Latitude, no navigator having hitherto run down on that parallel towards the Society Islands. It remains a subject worthy the investigation of philosophers, to consider from what probable principles these islands are so extremely numerous, and form so great an archipelago to windward of the Society Islands, whilst they are only scattered at considerable distances beyond that group of mountainous islands? It is true, there is another archipelago of coral ledges far to the westward, I mean the Friendly Islands; but these are of a different nature, and appear to be of a much older date; they occupy more space, and have a greater quantity of soil, on which all the vegetable productions of the higher lands may be raised. "--G. F. 

 How far the opinions here stated are supported by subsequent investigation, will be afterwards considered. --E. 

 [3] "The lagoon within this island was very spacious, and several canoes sailed about upon it. It appears to me, that the most elevated and richest spots on the coral ledges, are generally to leeward, sheltered from the violence of the surf. In this sea, however, there are seldom such violent storms, as might make these isles uncomfortable places of abode; and when the weather is fair, it must be very pleasant sailing on the smooth water in the lagoon, whilst the ocean without is disagreeably agitated. "--G. F. 

 [4] The following passage both strikingly expresses the satisfaction experienced on again visiting Otaheite, and affords a lively idea of its peerless beauty. "Every person on board gazed continually at this species of tropical islands; and though I was extremely ill of my bilious disorder, I crawled on deck, and fixed my eyes with great eagerness upon it, as upon a place where I hoped my pains would cease. Early in the morning I awoke, and was as much surprised at the beauty of the prospect, as if I had never beheld it before. It was, indeed, infinitely more beautiful at present, than it had been eight months ago, owing to the difference of the season. The forests on the mountains were all clad in fresh foliage, and glowed in many variegated hues; and even the lower hills were not entirely destitute of pleasing spots, and covered with herbage. But the plains, above all, shone forth in the greatest luxuriance of colours, the brightest tints of verdure being profusely lavished upon their fertile groves; in short, the whole called to our mind the description of Calypso's enchanted island. "--G. F. 

 [5] "The difference between the present opulence of these islanders, and their situation eight months before, was very astonishing to us. It was with the utmost difficulty that we had been able to purchase a few hogs during our first stay, having been obliged to look upon it as a great favour, when the king or chief parted with one of these animals. At present our decks were so crowded with them, that we were obliged to make a hog-stye on shore. We concluded, therefore, that they were now entirely recovered from the blow which they had received in their late unfortunate war with the lesser peninsula, and of which they still felt the bad effects at our visit in August 1773. "--G. F. 

 [6] So much curious information is given in the following passage, that, long as it is, there are few readers, it is believed, who would willingly dispense with it. "All our former ideas of the power and affluence of this island were so greatly surpassed by this magnificent scene, that we were perfectly left in admiration. We counted no less than one hundred and fifty-nine war-canoes, from fifty to ninety feet long betwixt stem and stern. All these were double, that is, two joined together, side by side, by fifteen or eighteen strong transverse timbers, which sometimes projected a great way beyond both the hulls, being from twelve to four-and-twenty feet in length, and about three feet and a half asunder. When they are so long, they make a platform fifty, sixty, or seventy feet in length. On the outside of each canoe there are, in that case, two or three longitudinal spars, and between the two connected canoes, one spar is fixed to the transverse beams. The heads and sterns were raised several feet out of the water, particularly the latter, which stood up like long beaks, sometimes near twenty feet high, and were cut into various shapes; a white piece of cloth was commonly fixed between the two beaks of each double canoe, in lieu of an ensign, and the wind swelled it out like a sail. Some had likewise a striped cloth, with various red chequers, which were the marks of the divisions under different commanders. At the head there was a tall pillar of carved-work, on the top of which stood the figure of a man, or rather of an urchin, whose face was commonly shaded by a board like a bonnet, and sometimes painted red with ochre. These pillars were generally covered with branches of black feathers, and long streamers of feathers hung from them. The gunwale of the canoes was commonly two or three feet above the water, but not always formed in the same manner; for some had flat bottoms, and sides nearly perpendicular upon them, whilst others were bow- sided, with a sharp keel. A fighting stage was erected towards the head of the boat, and rested on pillars from four to six feet high, generally ornamented with carving. This stage extended beyond the whole breadth of the double canoe, and was from twenty to twenty-four feet long, and about eight or ten feet wide. The rowers sat in the canoe, or under the fighting-stage on the platform, which consisted of the transverse beams and longitudinal spars; so that wherever these crossed, there was room for one man in the compartment. The warriors were stationed on the fighting-stage to the number of fifteen or twenty. Their dress was the most singular, and at the same time the most shewy, in the whole fleet. They had three large and ample pieces of cloth with a hole in the middle, put one above another. The undermost and largest was white, the next red, and the uppermost and shortest brown. Their targets or breast-plates were made of wicker- work, covered with feathers and sharks' teeth, and hardly any of the warriors were without them. On the contrary, those who wore helmets were few in number. These helmets were of an enormous size, being near five feet high. They consisted of a long cylindrical basket of wicker- work, of which the foremost half was hid by a semi-cylinder of a closer texture, which became broader towards the top, and there separated from the basket, so as to come forwards in a curve. This frontlet, of the length of four feet, was closely covered with the glossy bluish green feathers of a sort of pigeon, and with an elegant border of white plumes. A prodigious number of the long tail feathers of tropic birds diverged from its edges, in a radiant line, resembling that glory of light with which our painters commonly ornament the heads of angels and saints. A large turban of cloth was required for this huge unwieldy machine to rest upon; but as it is intended merely to strike the beholder with admiration, and can be of no service, the warriors soon took it off, and placed it on the platform near them. The principal commanders were moreover distinguished by long round tails, made of green and yellow feathers, which hung down on the back, and put us in mind of the Turkish bashaws. Towha, their admiral, wore five of them, to the ends of which several strings of cocoa-nut tree were added, with a few red feathers affixed to them. He had no helmet on, but wore a fine turban, which sat very gracefully on his head. He was a man seemingly near sixty years of age, but extremely vigorous, tall, and of a very engaging noble countenance. In each canoe we took notice of vast bundles of spears, and long clubs or battle-axes placed upright against the platform; and every warrior had either a club or spear in his hand. Vast heaps of large stones were likewise piled up in every canoe, being their only missile weapons. Besides the vessels of war, there were many smaller canoes without the ranks, most of which were likewise double, with a roof on the stern, intended for the reception of the chiefs at night, and as victuallers to the fleet. A few of them were seen, on which banana-leaves were very conspicuous; and these the natives told us were to receive the killed, and they called them _e-vaa no t'Eatua_, "the canoes of the Divinity. " "The immense number of people assembled together was, in fact, more surprising than the splendour of the whole shew; and we learnt to our greater surprise, that this fleet was only the naval force of the single district of Atapooroo, and that all the other districts could furnish their quota of vessels in proportion to their size. This account opened our eyes, in regard to the population of the island, and convinced us in a few moments, that it was much more considerable than we had hitherto supposed. The result of a most moderate computation gave us one hundred and twenty thousand persons in the two peninsulas of Otabeite, and this calculation was afterwards confirmed to be very low, when we saw the fleet of the smallest district, which amounted to forty-four war-canoes, besides twenty or thirty of a smaller size. "--G. F. 

SECTION XII. 

_Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other Chiefs; alsoof a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its Consequences, withgeneral Observations on the Subject. _

In the morning of the 27th, I received a present from Towha, consisting oftwo large hogs and some fruit, sent by two of his servants, who had ordersnot to receive any thing in return; nor would they when offered them. Soonafter I went down to Oparree in my boat, where, having found both thischief and the king, after a short stay, I brought them on board to dinner, together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother, and Tee. As soon as wedrew near the ship, the admiral, who had never seen one before, began toexpress much surprise at so new a sight. He was conducted all over theship, every part of which he viewed with great attention. On this occasionOtoo was the principal show-man; for, by this time, he was well acquaintedwith the different parts of the ship. After dinner Towha put a hog onboard, and retired, without my knowing any thing of the matter, or havingmade him any return either for this, or the present I had in the morning. Soon after, the king and his attendants went away also. [1] Otoo not onlyseemed to pay this chief much respect, but was desirous I should do thesame; and yet he was jealous of him, but on what account we knew not. Itwas but the day before that he frankly told us, Towha was not his friend. Both these chiefs when on board solicited me to assist them againstTiarabou, notwithstanding a peace at this time subsisted between the twokingdoms, and we were told their joint force was to go against Eimea. Whether this was done with a view of breaking with their neighbours andallies if I had promised them assistance, or only to sound my disposition, I know not. Probably they would have been ready enough to have embraced anopportunity, which would have enabled them to conquer that kingdom, andannex it to their own, as it formerly was. Be this as it may, I heard nomore of it; indeed, I gave them no encouragement. 

Next day we had a present of a hog sent by Waheatoua, king of Tiarabou. Forthis, in return, he desired a few red feathers, which were, together withother things, sent him accordingly. Mr Forster and his party set out forthe mountains, with an intent to stay out all night. I did not go out ofthe ship this day. [2]

Early in the morning of the 29th, Otoo, Towha, and several other grandees, came on board, and brought with them as presents, not only provisions, butsome of the most valuable curiosities of the island. I made them returns, with which they were well pleased. I likewise took this opportunity torepay the civilities I had received from Towha. 

The night before, one of the natives attempting to steal a water-cask fromthe watering-place, was caught in the act, sent on board, and put in irons;in which situation Otoo and the other chiefs saw him. Having made known hiscrime to them, Otoo begged he might be set at liberty. This I refused, telling him, that since I punished my people, when they committed the leastoffence against his, it was but just this man should be punished also; andas I knew he would not do it, I was resolved to do it myself. Accordingly, I ordered the man to be carried on shore to the tents, and having followedmyself, with Otoo, Towha, and others, I ordered the guard out, under arms, and the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo, his sister, and some others, begged hard for him; Towha said not one word, but was very attentive toevery thing going forward. I expostulated with Otoo on the conduct of thisman, and of his people in general; telling him, that neither I, nor any ofmy people, took any thing from them, without first paying for it;enumerating the articles we gave in exchange for such and such things; andurging that it was wrong in them to steal from us, who were their friends. I moreover told him, that the punishing this man would be the means ofsaving the lives of others of his people, by deterring them from committingcrimes of this nature, in which some would certainly be shot dead, one timeor another. With these and other arguments, which I believe he pretty wellunderstood, he seemed satisfied, and only desired the man might not be_Matterou_ (or killed). I then ordered the crowd, which was verygreat, to be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all, ordered the fellow two dozen lashes with a cat-o'-nine-tails, which he borewith great firmness, and was then set at liberty. After this the nativeswere going away; but Towha stepped forth, called them back, and haranguedthem for near half an hour. His speech consisted of short sentences, verylittle of which I understood; but, from what we could gather, herecapitulated part of what I had said to Otoo; named several advantagesthey had received from us; condemned their present conduct, and recommendeda different one for the future. The gracefulness of his action, and theattention with which he was heard, bespoke him a great orator. 

Otoo said not one word. As soon as Towha had ended his speech, I orderedthe marines to go through their exercise, and to load and fire in vollieswith ball; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier toconceive than to describe the amazement the natives were under the wholetime, especially those who had not seen any thing of the kind before. 

This being over, the chiefs took leave, and retired with all theirattendants, scarcely more pleased than frightened at what they had seen. Inthe evening Mr Forster and his party returned from the mountains, where hehad spent the night; having found some new plants, and some others whichgrew in New Zealand. He saw Huaheine, which lies forty leagues to thewestward; by which a judgment may be formed of the height of the mountainsin Otaheite. [3]

Next morning I had an opportunity to see the people of ten war-canoes gothrough part of their paddling exercise. They had put off from the shorebefore I was apprised of it; so that I was only present at their landing. They were properly equipped for war, the warriors with their arms, anddressed in their war habits, &c. In landing, I observed that the moment thecanoe touched the ground, all the rowers leaped out, and with theassistance of a few people on the shore, dragged the canoe on dry land toher proper place; which being done, every one walked off with his paddle, &c. All this was executed with such expedition, that in five minutes timeafter putting ashore, you could not tell that any thing of the kind hadbeen going forward. I thought these vessels were thinly manned with rowers;the most being not above thirty, and the least sixteen or eighteen. Iobserved the warriors on the stage encouraged the rowers to exertthemselves. Some youths sat high up in the curved stern, above thesteersmen, with white wands in their hands. I know not what they wereplaced there for, unless it was to look out and direct, or give notice ofwhat they saw, as they were elevated above every one else. Tarevatoo, theking's brother, gave me the first notice of these canoes being at sea; andknowing that Mr Hodges made drawings of every thing curious, desired of hisown accord that he might be sent for. I being at this time on shore withTarevatoo, Mr Hodges was therefore with me, and had an opportunity tocollect some materials for a large drawing or picture of the fleetassembled at Oparree, which conveys a far better idea of it than can beexpressed by words. Being present when the warriors undressed, I wassurprised at the quantity and weight of cloth they had upon them, notconceiving how it was possible for them to stand under it in time ofbattle. Not a little was wrapped round their heads as a turban, and madeinto a cap. This, indeed, might be necessary in preventing a broken head. Many had, fixed to one of this sort of caps, dried branches of small shrubscovered over with white feathers, which, however, could only be forornament. 

On the 1st of May, I had a very great supply of provisions sent and broughtby different chiefs; and the next day received a present from Towha, sentby his servants, consisting of a hog, and a boat-load of various sorts offruits and roots. The like present I also had from Otoo, brought byTarevatoo, who stayed dinner; after which I went down to Opparree, paid avisit to Otoo, and returned on board in the evening. [4]

On the 3d, in looking into the condition of our sea-provisions, we foundthat the biscuit was in a state of decay, and that the airing and pickingwe had given it at New Zealand, had not been of that service we expectedand intended; so that we were obliged to take it all on shore here, whereit underwent another airing and cleaning, in which a good deal was foundwholly rotten and unfit to be eaten. We could not well account for thisdecay in our bread, especially as it was packed in good casks, and stowedin a dry part of the hold. We judged it was owing to the ice we sofrequently took in when to the southward, which made the hold damp andcold, and to the great heat which succeeded when to the north. Be it this, or any other cause, the loss was the same to us; it put us to a scantyallowance of this article; and we had bad bread to eat too. 

On the 4th, nothing worthy of note. 

On the 5th, the king and several other great men, paid us a visit, andbrought with them, as usual, some hogs and fruit. In the afternoon, thebotanists set out for the mountains, and returned the following evening, having made some new discoveries in their way. 

On going ashore in the morning of the 7th, I found Otoo at the tents, andtook the opportunity to ask his leave to cut down some trees, for fuel. Henot well understanding me, I took him to some growing near the sea-shore, where I presently made him comprehend what I wanted, and he as readily gavehis consent. I told him, at the same time, that I should cut down no treesthat bore any fruit. He was pleased with this declaration, and told italoud, several times, to the people about us. 

In the afternoon, this chief and the whole of the royal family, viz. Hisfather, brother, and three sisters, paid us a visit on board. This wasproperly his father's visit of ceremony. He brought me, as a present, acomplete mourning dress, a curiosity we most valued. [5] In return, I gavehim whatever he desired, which was not a little, and having distributed redfeathers to all the others, conducted them ashore in my boat. Otoo was sowell pleased with the reception he and his friends met with, that he toldme, at parting, I might cut down as many trees as I pleased, and what sortI pleased. 

During the night, between the 7th and 8th, some time in the middle watch, all our friendly connections received an interruption, through thenegligence of one of the centinels on shore. He having either slept orquitted his post, gave one of the natives an opportunity to carry off hismusket. The first news I heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent onboard for that purpose, and to desire that I would go to him, for that hewas _mataoued_. We were not well enough acquainted with their languageto understand all Tee's story; but we understood enough to know thatsomething had happened which had alarmed the king. In order, therefore, tobe fully informed, I went ashore with Tee and Tarevatoo, who had sleptaboard all night. As soon as we landed, I was informed of the whole by theserjeant who commanded the party. I found the natives all alarmed, and themost of them fled. Tarevatoo slipped from me in a moment, and hardly anyremained by me but Tee. With him I went to look for Otoo; and, as weadvanced, I endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but, at the sametime, insisted on the musket being restored. After travelling some distanceinto the country, enquiring of every one we saw for Otoo, Tee stopped allat once and advised me to return, saying, that Otoo was gone to themountains, and he would proceed and tell him that I was still his friend; aquestion which had been asked me fifty times by different people, and if Iwas angry, &c. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours torecover the musket. I was now satisfied it was to no purpose to go farther;for, although I was alone and unarmed, Otoo's fears were such, that hedurst not see me; and, therefore, I took Tee's advice, and returned aboard. After this I sent Oedidee to Otoo to let him know that his fears were ill-grounded; for that I only required the return of the musket, which I knewwas in his power. 

Soon after Oedidee was gone, we observed six large canoes coming roundPoint Venus. Some people whom I had sent out, to watch the conduct of theneighbouring inhabitants, informed me they were laden with baggage, fruit, hogs, &c. There being room for suspecting that some person belonging tothese canoes had committed the theft, I presently came to a resolution tointercept them; and having put off in a boat for that purpose, gave ordersfor another to follow. One of the canoes, which was some distance ahead ofthe rest, came directly for the ship. I went alongside this, and found twoor three women in her whom I knew. They told me they were going on boardthe ship with something for me; and, on my enquiring of them for Otoo, wastold he was then at the tents. Pleased with this news, I contradicted theorders I had given for intercepting the other canoes, thinking they mightbe coming on board also, as well as this one, which I left within a fewyards of the ship, and rowed ashore to speak with Otoo. But when I landed, I was told that he had not been there, nor knew they any thing of him. Onmy looking behind me, I saw all the canoes making off in the greatesthaste; even the one I had left alongside the ship had evaded going onboard, and was making her escape. Vexed at being thus outwitted, I resolvedto pursue them; and as I passed the ship, gave orders to send another boatfor the same purpose. Five out of six we took, and brought alongside; butthe first, which acted the finesse so well, got clear off. When we got onboard with our prizes, I learnt that the people who had deceived me, usedno endeavours to lay hold of the ship on the side they were up on, but lettheir canoe drop past, as if they meant to come under the stern, or on theother side; and that the moment they were past, they paddled off with allspeed. Thus the canoe, in which were only a few women, was to have amusedus with false stories as they actually did, while the others, in which weremost of the effects, got off. 

In one of the canoes we had taken, was a chief, a friend of Mr Forster's, who had hitherto called himself an _Earee_, and would have been muchoffended if any one had called his title in question; also three women, hiswife and daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. These, together withthe canoes, I resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo, thinkinghe would have weight enough with him to obtain the return of the musket, ashis own property was at stake. He was, however, very unwilling to go onthis embassy, and made various excuses, one of which was his being of toolow a rank for this honourable employment; saying he was no _Earee_, but a _Manahouna_, and, therefore, was not a fit person to be sent;that an _Earee_ ought to be sent to speak to an _Earee_; and asthere were no _Earees_ but Otoo and myself, it would be much moreproper for me to go. All his arguments would have availed him little, ifTee and Oedidee had not at this time come on board, and given a new turn tothe affair, by declaring that the man who stole the musket was fromTiarabou, and had gone with it to that kingdom, so that it was not in thepower of Otoo to recover it. I very much doubted their veracity, till theyasked me to send a boat to Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, and offered togo themselves in her, and get it. I asked why this could not be donewithout my sending a boat? They said, it would not otherwise be given tothem. 

This story of theirs, although it did not quite satisfy me, neverthelesscarried with it a probability of truth; for which reason I thought itbetter to drop the affair altogether, rather than to punish a nation for acrime I was not sure any of its members had committed. I therefore sufferedmy new ambassador to depart with his two canoes without executing hiscommission. The other three canoes belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou chief, who had been some days about the tents; and there was good reason tobelieve it was one of his people that carried off the musket. I intended tohave detained them; but as Tee and Oedidee both assured me that Maritataand his people were quite innocent, I suffered them to be taken away also, and desired Tee to tell Otoo, that I should give myself no farther concernabout the musket, since I was satisfied none of his people had stolen it. Indeed, I thought it was irrecoverably lost; but, in the dusk of theevening it was brought to the tents, together with some other things we hadlost, which we knew nothing of, by three men who had pursued the thief, andtaken them from him. I know not if they took this trouble of their ownaccord, or by the order of Otoo. I rewarded them, and made no other enquiryabout it. These men, as well as some others present, assured me that it wasone of Maritata's people who had committed this theft; which vexed me thatI had let his canoes so easily slip through my fingers. Here, I believe, both Tee and Oedidee designedly deceived me. 

When the musket and other things were brought in, every one then present, or who came after, pretended to have had some hand in recovering them, andclaimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one who acted this farce sowell as Nuno, a man of some note, and well known to us when I was here in1769. This man came, with all the savage fury imaginable in hiscountenance, and a large club in his hand, with which he beat about him, inorder to shew us how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the same time, we all knew that he had not been out of his house the whole time. 

Thus ended this troublesome day; and next morning early, Tee, Otoo'sfaithful ambassador, came again on board, to acquaint me that Otoo was goneto Oparree, and desired I would send a person (one of the natives as Iunderstood), to tell him that I was still his _Tiyo_. I asked him whyhe did not do this himself, as I had desired. He made some excuse; but, Ibelieve the truth was, he had not seen him. In short, I found it wasnecessary for me to go myself; for, while we thus spent our time inmessages, we remained without fruit, a stop being put to all exchanges ofthis nature; that is, the natives brought nothing to market. Accordingly, aparty of us set out with Tee in our company, and proceeded to the veryutmost limits of Oparree, where, after waiting some considerable time, andseveral messages having passed, the king at last made his appearance. Afterwe were seated under the shade of some trees, as usual, and the firstsalutations were over, he desired me to _parou_ (that is, to speak). Accordingly, I began with blaming him for being frightened and alarmed atwhat had happened, since I had always professed myself his friend, and Iwas not angry with him or any of his people, but with those of Tiarabou, who were the thieves. I was then asked, how I came to fire at the canoes?Chance on this occasion furnished me with a good excuse. I told them, thatthey belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou man, one of whose people had stolenthe musket, and occasioned all this disturbance; and if I had them in mypower I would destroy them, or any other belonging to Tiarabou. Thisdeclaration pleased them, as I expected, from the natural aversion the onekingdom has to the other. What I said was enforced by presents, whichperhaps had the greatest weight with them. Thus were things once morerestored to their former state; and Otoo promised on his part, that thenext day we should be supplied with fruit, &c. As usual. 

We then returned with him to his proper residence at Oparree, and theretook a view of some of his dock-yards (for such they well deserve to becalled) and large canoes; some lately built, and others building; two ofwhich were the largest I had ever seen in this sea; or indeed any whereelse, under that name. This done, we returned on board, with Tee in ourcompany; who, after he had dined with us, went to inform old Happi, theking's father, that all matters were again accommodated. 

This old chief was at this time in the neighbourhood of Matavai; and itshould seem, from what followed, that he was not pleased with theconditions; for that same evening all the women, which were not a few, weresent for out of the ship, and people stationed on different parts of theshore, to prevent any from coming off; and the next morning no supplieswhatever being brought, on my enquiring into the reason, I was told Happiwas _mataoued_. Chagrined at this disappointment as I was, I forboretaking any step, from a supposition that Tee had not seen him, or thatOtoo's orders had not yet reached Matavai. A supply of fruit sent us fromOparree, and some brought us by our friends, served us for the present, andmade us less anxious about it. Thus matters stood till the afternoon, whenOtoo himself came to the tents with a large supply. Thither I went, andexpostulated with him for not permitting the people in our neighbourhood tobring us fruit as usual, insisting on his giving immediate orders about it;which he either did or had done before. For presently after, more wasbrought us than we could well manage. This was not to be wondered at, forthe people had every thing in readiness to bring, the moment they werepermitted, and I believe thought themselves as much injured by therestriction as we did. 

Otoo desiring to see some of the great guns fire from the ship, I orderedtwelve to be shotted and fired towards the sea. As he had never seen acannon fired before, the sight gave him as much pain as pleasure. In theevening, we entertained him with fire-works, which gave him greatsatisfaction. 

Thus ended all our differences, on which I beg leave to suggest thefollowing remarks. I have had occasion before, in this journal, to observethat these people were continually watching opportunities to rob us. Thistheir governors either encouraged, or had not power to prevent; but mostprobably the former, because the offender was always screened. [6] That theyshould commit such daring thefts was the more extraordinary, as theyfrequently run the risk of being shot in the attempt; and if the articlethat they stole was of any consequence, they knew they should be obliged tomake restitution. The moment a theft of this kind was committed, it spreadlike the wind over the whole neighbourhood. They judged of the consequencesfrom what they had got. If it were a trifle, and such an article as weusually gave them, little or no notice was taken of it; but if thecontrary, every one took the alarm, and moved off with his moveables in allhaste. The chief then was _mataoued_, giving orders to bring us nosupplies, and flying to some distant part. All this was sometimes done sosuddenly, that we obtained, by these appearances, the first intelligence ofour being robbed. Whether we obliged them to make restitution or no, thechief must be reconciled before any of the people were permitted to bringin refreshments. They knew very well we could not do without them, andtherefore they never failed strictly to observe this rule, without everconsidering, that all their war-canoes, on which the strength of theirnation depends, their houses, and even the very fruit they refused tosupply us with, were entirely in our power. It is hard to say how theywould act, were one to destroy any of these things. Except the detainingsome of their canoes for a while, I never touched the least article oftheir property. Of the two extremes I always chose that which appeared themost equitable and mild. A trifling present to the chief always succeededto my wish, and very often put things upon a better footing than they hadbeen before. That they were the first aggressors had very little influenceon my conduct in this respect, because no difference happened but when itwas so. My people very rarely or never broke through the rules I thought itnecessary to prescribe. Had I observed a different conduct, I must havebeen a loser by it in the end; and all I could expect, after destroyingsome part of their property, would have been the empty honour of obligingthem to make the first overture towards an accommodation. But who knows ifthis would have been the event? Three things made them our fast friends. Their own good-nature and benevolent disposition; gentle treatment on ourpart; and the dread of our fire-arms. By our ceasing to observe the second;the first would have worn out of course; and the too frequent use of thelatter would have excited a spirit of revenge, and perhaps have taught themthat fire-arms were not such terrible things as they had imagined. Theywere very sensible of the superiority of their numbers; and no one knowswhat an enraged multitude might do. 

 [1] "Towha paid more attention to the multitude of new objects on board, to the strength and size of the timbers, masts, and ropes, than any Otaheitean we had ever seen, and found our tackle so exceedingly superior to that which is usual in his country, that he expressed a wish to possess several articles, especially cables and anchors. He was now dressed like the rest of the people, and naked to the waist, being in the king's presence. His appearance was so much altered from what it had been the day before, that I had some difficulty to recollect him. He appeared now very lusty, and had a most portly paunch, which it was impossible to discern under the long spacious robes of war. His hair was of a fine silvery grey; and his countenance was the most engaging and truly good-natured which I ever beheld in these islands. The king and he staid and dined with us this day, eating with a very hearty appetite of all that was set before them. Otoo had entirely lost his uneasy, distrustful air; he seemed to be at home, and took a great pleasure in instructing Towha in our manners. He taught him to make use of the knife and fork, to eat salt to his meat, and to drink wine. He himself did not refuse to drink a glass of this generous liquor, and joked with Towha upon its red colour, telling him it was blood. The honest admiral having tasted our grog, which is a mixture of brandy and water, desired to taste of the brandy itself, which he called _e vai no Bretannee_, British water, and drank off a small glass full, without making a wry face. Both he and his Otaheitean majesty were extremely cheerful and happy, and appeared to like our way of living, and our cookery of their own excellent provisions. "--G. F. 

 [2] Of this day's date we find an incident which very strikingly illustrates the consequences to the morals of the Otaheiteans, resulting from their acquaintance with strangers. "That our red feathers had infused a general and irresistible longing into the minds of all the people, will appear from the following circumstance. I have observed, in the former part of this narrative, that the women of the families of chiefs never admitted the visits of Europeans; and also that whatever liberties some unmarried girls might with impunity allow themselves, the married state had always been held sacred and unspotted at Otaheite. But such was the force of the temptation, that a chief actually offered his wife to Captain Cook, and the lady, by her husband's order, attempted to captivate him, by an artful display of her charms, seemingly in such a careless manner, as many a woman would be at a loss to imitate. I was sorry, for the sake of human nature, that this proposal came from a man, whose general character was in other respects very fair. It was Potatow who could descend to such meanness, from the high spirit of grandeur which he had formerly shewn. We expressed great indignation at his conduct, and rebuked him for his frailty. "--G. F. 

 From this specimen of frailty, may be readily inferred the dissoluteness of those females, who had neither rank nor marriage to render chastity a virtue. But, alas! one need not visit the South Seas, to become acquainted with the possible extent of human infirmity. A cynic might, without such travel, be tempted to parody the words of Sir Robert Walpole, and say, that every woman had her price. The proposition is a harsh one, and the more so as obviously irrefutable. It does, however, read this most important lesson, that there is much greater safety in avoiding temptation, than in trusting to any power of resistance. They, it is to be feared, who are least sensible of this truth, and who feel most indignant at its being stated, stand most in need of its salutary influence. --E. 

 [3] Forster the father met with a serious accident during this excursion. In descending from the hills, rendered exceedingly slippery from the recent rains, he had the misfortune to fall, which both bruised his leg in a very severe manner, and also occasioned a rupture. --E. 

 [4] "The number of common women on board our ships considerably increased, since we had begun to deal in red feathers. Their mirth was often extravagant and noisy; and sometimes their ideas were so original as to give great amusement. We had a very weak scorbutic patient when we arrived at Otaheite; this man being somewhat recovered by means of fresh vegetable food, and animated by the example of the crew, wooed one of these girls; about dusk he led her to his birth, and lighted a candle. She looked her lover in the face, and finding he had lost an eye, she took him by the hand, and conducted him upon deck again to a girl that was one-eyed likewise, giving him to understand, that that person was a fit partner for him, but that for her part she did not choose to put up with a blind lover. "--G. F. 

 [5] When here before, Captain Cook could not obtain this very singular article; but, at this time, according to Mr G. F. , not less than ten complete mourning-dresses were purchased by different persons, who brought them to England. Captain Cook gave one to the British Museum, and Mr Forster another to the University of Oxford. A sailor sold a third on his return home for twenty-five guineas, but to whom Mr G. F. Does not mention. --E. 

 [6] It is still more probable that both reasons concur. The higher orders, besides, it is certain, were far enough from being disinclined to exhibit their ingenuity in pilfering. We have seen instances of this sort before. Mr G. F. Relates one of some interest, as presented in the king's own sister, a woman about twenty-seven years old, and who possessed great authority over her sex. Her high rank did not elevate her above some very vulgar propensities, of which, covetousness, though abundantly conspicuous, was not the most considerable. The only apology Mr G. F. Makes for her, has little specific excellence to commend it. "In a country, " says he, "where the impulses of nature are followed without restraint, it would be extraordinary if an exception should be made, and still more so, if it should be confined to those who are accustomed to have their will in most other respects. The passions of mankind are similar every where; the same instincts are active in the slave and the prince; consequently the history of their effects must ever be the same in every country. " It is both mortifying and consolatory to think, that the utmost height to which ambition may aspire, will not exempt one from the polluting agency of "mire and dirt. " Death, we see, is not the only leveller in the world. --E. 

SECTION XIII. 

_Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and variousother Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval Force, andNumber of Inhabitants. _

In the morning of the 11th, a very large supply of fruit was brought usfrom all parts. Some of it came from Towha, the admiral, sent as usual byhis servants, with orders to receive nothing in return. But he desired Iwould go and see him at Attahourou, as he was ill and could not come to me. As I could not well undertake this journey, I sent Oedidee along withTowha's servants, with a present suitable to that which I had in so genteela manner received from him. As the most essential repairs of the ship werenearly finished, I resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days; andaccordingly ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, that thenatives might see we were about to depart. 

On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Dolphin was here in 1767, was thought to be queen of the island, and whom I had not seen since 1769, paid us a visit, and brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after cameOtoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. I waspretty liberal in my returns, thinking it might be the last time I shouldsee these good people, who had so liberally relieved our wants; and in theevening entertained them with fire-works. 

On the 13th, wind easterly, fair weather. Nevertheless we were not ready tosail, as Otoo had made me promise to see him again; and I had a present tomake him, which I reserved to the last. Oedidee was not yet come back fromAttahourou; various reports arose concerning him: Some said he had returnedto Matavai; others, that he would not return; and some would have it, thathe was at Oparree. In order to know more of the truth, a party of us in theevening went down to Oparee; where we found him, and likewise Towha, who, notwithstanding his illness, had resolved to see me before I sailed; andhad got thus far on his journey. He was afflicted with a swelling in hisfeet and legs, which had entirely taken away the use of them. As the daywas far spent, we were obliged to shorten our stay; and after seeing Otoo, we returned with Oedidee on board. 

This youth, I found, was desirous of remaining at this isle, having beforetold him, as likewise many others, that we should not return. I nowmentioned to him, that he was at liberty to remain here; or to quit us atUlietea; or to go with us to England; frankly owning that if he chose thelatter, it was very probable he would never return to his country; in whichcase I would take care of him, and he must afterwards look upon me as hisfather. He threw his arms about me, and wept much, saying many peoplepersuaded him to remain at Otaheite. I told him to go ashore and speak tohis friends, and then come to me in the morning. He was well beloved in theship; so that every one was persuading him to go with us; telling whatgreat things he would see in England, and the immense riches (according tohis idea of riches) he would return with. But I thought proper to undeceivehim, as knowing that the only inducement to his going, was the expectationof returning, and I could see no prospect of an opportunity of that kindhappening, unless a ship should be expressly sent out for that purpose;which neither I, nor anyone else, had a right to expect. I thought it anact of the highest injustice to take a person from these isles, under anypromise which was not in my power to perform. At this time indeed it wasquite unnecessary; for many youths voluntarily offered themselves to go, and even to remain and die in _Pretanee_; as they call our country. Otoo importuned me much to take one or two to collect red feathers for himat Amsterdam, willing to risk the chance of their returning. Some of thegentlemen on board were likewise desirous of taking some as servants; but Irefused every solicitation of this kind, knowing, from experience, theywould be of no use to us in the course of the voyage; and farther my viewswere not extended. What had the greatest weight with me was, the thinkingmyself bound to see they were afterwards properly taken care of, as theycould not be carried from their native spot without consent. 

Next morning early, Oedidee came on board, with a resolution to remain onthe island; but Mr Forster prevailed upon him to go with us to Ulietea. Soon after, Towha, Potatou, Oamo, Happi, Oberea, and several more of ourfriends, came on board with fruit, &c. Towha was hoisted in and placed on achair on the quarter-deck; his wife was with him. Amongst the variousarticles which I gave this chief, was an English pendant, which pleased himmore than all the rest, especially after he had been instructed in the useof it. [1]

We had no sooner dispatched our friends, than we saw a number of war-canoescoming round the point of Oparree. Being desirous of having a nearer viewof them, accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen, I hastened downto Oparree, which we reached before all the canoes were landed, and had anopportunity of seeing in what manner they approached the shore. When theygot before the place where they intended to land, they formed themselvesinto divisions, consisting of three or four, or perhaps more, lashed squareand close along-side of each other; and then each division, one after theother, paddled in for the shore with all their might, and conducted in sojudicious a manner, that they formed and closed a line along, the shore, toan inch. The rowers were encouraged to exert their strength by theirleaders on the stages, and directed by a man who stood with a wand in hishand in the forepart of the middlemost vessel. This man, by words andactions, directed the paddlers when all should paddle, when either the oneside or the other should cease, &c. ; for the steering paddles alone werenot sufficient to direct them. All these motions they observed with suchquickness, as clearly shewed them to be expert in their business. After MrHodges had made a drawing of them, as they lay ranged along the shore, welanded and took a nearer view of them, by going on board several. Thisfleet consisted of forty sail, equipped in the same manner as those we hadseen before, belonged to the little district of Tettaha, and were come toOparree to be reviewed before the king, as the former fleet had been. Therewere attending on his fleet some small double canoes, which they called_Marais_, having on their fore-part a kind of double bed place laidover with green leaves, each just sufficient to hold one man. These, theytold us, were to lay their dead upon; their chiefs I suppose they meant, otherwise their slain must be few. Otoo, who was present, caused at myrequest some of their troops to go through their exercise on shore. Twoparties first began with clubs, but this was over almost as soon as begun;so that I had no time to make my observations upon it. They then went tosingle combat, and exhibited the various methods of fighting, with greatalertness; parrying off the blows and pushes which each combatant aimed atthe other, with great dexterity. Their arms were clubs and spears; thelatter they also use as darts. In fighting with the club, all blowsintended to be given the legs, were evaded by leaping over it; and thoseintended for the head, by couching a little, and leaping on one side; thusthe blow would fall to the ground. The spear or dart was parried by fixingthe point of a spear in the ground right before them, holding it in aninclined position, more or less elevated according to the part of the bodythey saw their antagonist intending to make a push, or throw his dart at, and by moving the hand a little to the right or left, either the one or theother was turned off with great ease. I thought that when one combatant hadparried off the blows, &c. Of the other, he did not use the advantage whichseemed to me to accrue. As for instance, after he had parried off a dart, he still stood on the defensive, and suffered his antagonist to take upanother, when I thought there was time to run him through the body. [2]

These combatants had no superfluous dress upon them; an unnecessary pieceof cloth or two, which they had on when they began, were presently torn offby the by-standers, and given to some of our gentlemen present. This beingover, the fleet departed; not in any order, but as fast as they could begot afloat; and we went with Otoo to one of his dock-yards, where the twolarge _pahies_ or canoes were building, each of which was an hundredand eight feet long. They were almost ready to launch, and were intended tomake one joint double _pahie_ or canoe. The king begged of me agrappling and rope, to which I added an English jack and pendant (with theuse of which he was well acquainted), and desired the _pahie_ might becalled Britannia. This he very readily agreed to; and she was namedaccordingly. After this he gave me a hog, and a turtle of about sixtypounds weight, which was put privately into our boat; the giving it awaynot being agreeable to some of the great lords about him, who were thusdeprived of a feast. He likewise would have given me a large shark they hadprisoner in a creek (some of his fins being cut off, so that he could notmake his escape), but the fine pork and fish we had got at this isle, hadspoiled our palates for such food. The king, and Tee, his prime minister, accompanied us on board to dinner; and after it was over, took a mostaffectionate farewell. He hardly ever ceased soliciting me, this day, toreturn to Otaheite; and just before he went out of the ship, took a youthby the hand, and presented him to me, desiring I would keep him on board togo to Amsterdam to collect red feathers. I told him I could not, since Iknew he would never return; but that if any ship should happen to come fromBritain to this isle, I would either bring or send him red feathers inabundance. This in some measure satisfied him; but the youth wasexceedingly desirous of going; and if I had not come to a resolution tocarry no one from the isles (except Oedidee if he chose to go), and butjust refused Mr Forster the liberty of taking a boy, I believe I shouldhave consented. Otoo remained alongside in his canoe till we were undersail, when we put off, and was saluted with three guns. 

Our treatment here was such as had induced one of our gunner's mates toform a plan to remain at this isle. He knew he could not execute it withsuccess while we lay in the bay, therefore took the opportunity, as soon aswe were out, the boats in, and sails set, to slip overboard, being a goodswimmer. But he was discovered before he got clear of the ship; and wepresently hoisted a boat out, and took him up. A canoe was observed abouthalf-way between us and the shore, seemingly coming after us. She wasintended to take him up; but as soon as the people in her saw our boat, they kept at a distance. This was a pre-concerted plan between the man andthem, which Otoo was acquainted with, and had encouraged. When I consideredthis man's situation in life, I did not think him so culpable, nor theresolution he had taken of staying here so extraordinary, as it may atfirst appear. He was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutchservice. I picked him up at Batavia on my return from my former voyage, andhe had been with me ever since. I never learnt that he had either friendsor connections, to confine him to any particular part of the world. Allnations were alike to him. Where then could such a man be more happy thanat one of these isles? where, in one of the finest climates in the world, he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in easeand plenty. I know not if he might not have obtained my consent, if he hadapplied for it in a proper time. [3] As soon as we had got him on board, andthe boat in, I steered for Huaheine, in order to pay a visit to our friendsthere. But before we leave Otaheite, it will be necessary to give someaccount of the present state of that island; especially as it differs verymuch from what it was eight months before. 

I have already mentioned the improvements we found in the plains of Oparreeand Matavai. The same was observable in every other part into which wecame. It seemed to us almost incredible, that so many large canoes andhouses could be built in so short a space as eight months. The iron toolswhich they had got from the English, and other nations who have latelytouched at the isle, had no doubt greatly accelerated the work; and theyhad no want of hands, as I shall soon make appear. 

The number of hogs was another thing that excited our wonder. Probably theywere not so scarce when we were here before, as we imagined, and notchusing to part with any, they had conveyed them out of our sight. Be thisas it may, we now not only got as many as we could consume during our stay, but some to take to sea with us. 

When I was last here, I conceived but an unfavourable opinion of Otoo'stalents. The improvements since made in the island convinced me of mymistake; and that he must have been a man of good parts. He had indeed somejudicious sensible men about him, who, I believe, had a great share in thegovernment. In truth, we know not how far his power extended as king, norhow far he could command the assistance of the other chiefs, or wascontroulable by them. It should seem, however, that all had contributedtowards bringing the isle to its present flourishing state. We cannot doubtthat there were divisions amongst the great men of this state, as well asof most others; or else why did the king tell us, that Towha the admiral, and Poatatou were not his friends? They were two leading chiefs; and hemust have been jealous of them on account of their great power; for onevery occasion he seemed to court their interest. We had reason to believethat they raised by far the greatest number of vessels and men, to goagainst Eimea, and were to be two of the commanders in the expedition, which we were told was to take place five days after our departure. Waheatoua, king of Tiarabou, was to send a fleet to join that of Otoo, toassist him in reducing to obedience the chief of Eimea. I think, we weretold, that young prince was one of the commanders. One would suppose thatso small an island as Eimea would hardly have attempted to make headagainst the united force of these two kingdoms, but have endeavoured tosettle matters by negociation. Yet we heard of no such thing; on thecontrary, every one spoke of nothing but fighting. Towha told us more thanonce, that he should die there; which, in some measure, shews that hethought of it. Oedidee told me the battle would be fought at sea; in whichcase the other must have a fleet nearly equal, if not quite, to the onegoing against them; which I think was not probable. It was therefore morelikely they would remain ashore upon the defensive; as we were told theydid about five or six years ago, when attacked by the people of Tiarabou, whom they repulsed. Five general officers were to command in thisexpedition; of which number Otoo was one; and if they named them in orderaccording to the posts they held, Otoo was only the third in command. Thisseems probable enough; as being but a young man, he could not havesufficient experience to command such an expedition, where the greatestskill and judgment seemed to be necessary. I confess I would willingly havestaid five days longer, had I been sure the expedition would have thentaken place; but it rather seemed that they wanted us to be gone first. Wehad been all along told, it would be ten moons before it took place; and itwas not till the evening before we sailed, that Otoo and Towha told us itwas to be in five days after we were gone; as if it were necessary to havethat time to put every thing in order; for, while we lay there, great partof their time and attention was taken up with us. I had observed that forseveral days before we sailed, Otoo and the other chiefs had ceased tosolicit my assistance, as they were continually doing at first, till Iassured Otoo that, if they got their fleet ready in time, I would sail withthem down to Eimea: After this I heard no more of it. They probably hadtaken it into consideration, and concluded themselves safer without me;well knowing it would be in my power to give the victory to whom I pleased;and that, at the best, I might thwart some favourite custom, or run awaywith the spoils. But be their reasons what they might, they certainlywanted us to be gone, before they undertook any thing. Thus we weredeprived of seeing the whole fleet equipped on this occasion; and perhapsof being spectators of a sea-fight, and by that means, gaining someknowledge of their manoeuvres. 

I never could learn what number of vessels were to go on this expedition. We knew of no more than two hundred and ten, besides smaller canoes toserve as transports, &c. And the fleet of Tiarabou, the strength of whichwe never learnt. Nor could I ever learn the number of men necessary to manthis fleet; and whenever I asked the question, the answer was _Warou, warou, warou te Tata_, that is, many, many, many, men; as if the numberfar exceeded their arithmetic. If we allow forty men to each war-canoe, andfour to each of the others, which is thought a moderate computation, thenumber will amount to nine thousand. An astonishing number to be raised infour districts; and one of them, viz. Matavia, did not equip a fourth partof its fleet. The fleet of Tiarabou is not included in this account; andmany other districts might be arming, which we knew nothing of. I howeverbelieve, that the whole isle did not arm on this occasion; for we saw notthe least preparations making in Oparree. From what we saw and could learn, I am clearly of opinion that the chief or chiefs of each districtsuperintended the equipping of the fleet belonging to that district; butafter they are equipped, they must pass in review before the king, and beapproved of by him. By this means he knows the state of the whole, beforethey assemble to go on service. 

It hath been already observed, that the number of war-canoes belonging toAttahourou and Ahopata was a hundred and sixty; to Tettaba, forty; and toMatavia, ten; and that this district did not equip one-fourth part of theirnumber. If we suppose every district in the island, of which there areforty-three, to raise and equip the same number of war-canoes as Tettaha, we shall find, by this estimate, that the whole island can raise and equipone thousand seven hundred and twenty war-canoes, and sixty-eight thousandable men; allowing forty men to each canoe. And as these cannot amount toabove one-third part of the number of both sexes, children included, thewhole island cannot contain less than two hundred and four thousandinhabitants, a number which at first sight exceeded my belief. But when Icame to reflect on the vast swarms which appeared wherever we came, I wasconvinced that this estimate was not much, if at all, too great. Therecannot be a greater proof of the riches and fertility of Otaheite (notforty leagues in circuit) than its supporting such a number of inhabitants. 

This island made formerly but one kingdom; how long it has been dividedinto two, I cannot pretend to say; but I believe not long. The kings ofTiarabou are a branch of the family of those of Opoureonu; at present, thetwo are nearly related; and, I think, the former is, in some measure, dependent on the latter. Otoo is styled _Earee de hie_ of the wholeisland; and we have been told that Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, mustuncover before him, in the same manner as the meanest of his subjects. Thishomage is due to Otoo as _Earee de hie_ of the isle, to Tarevatou, hisbrother, and his second sister; to the one as heir, and to the other asheir apparent; his eldest sister being married, is not entitled to thishomage. 

The _Eowas_ and _Whannos_, we have sometimes seen covered beforethe king; but whether by courtesy, or by virtue of their office, we nevercould learn. These men, who are the principal persons about the king, andform his court, are generally, if not always, his relations; Tee, whom Ihave so often mentioned, was one of them. We have been told, that the_Eowas_, who have the first rank, attend in their turns, a certainnumber each day, which occasioned us to call them lords in waiting; butwhether this was really so, I cannot say. We seldom found Tee absent;indeed his attendance was necessary, as being best able to negociatematters between us and them, on which service he was always employed; andhe executed it, I have reason to believe, to the satisfaction of bothparties. 

It is to be regretted, that we know little more of this government than thegeneral out-line; for, of its subdivisions, classes, or orders of theconstituent parts, how disposed, or in what manner connected, so as to formone body politic, we know but little. We are sure, however, that it is ofthe feudal kind; and if we may judge from what we have seen, it hassufficient stability, and is by no means badly constructed. 

The _Eowas_ and _Whannos_ always eat with the king; indeed I donot know if any one is excluded from this privilege but the_Toutous_. For as to the women, they are out of the question, as theynever eat with the men, let their rank be ever so much elevated. 

Notwithstanding this kind of kingly establishment, there was very littleabout Otoo's person or court by which a stranger could distinguish the kingfrom the subject. I seldom saw him dressed in any thing but a common pieceof cloth wrapped round his loins; so that he seemed to avoid allunnecessary pomp, and even to demean himself more than any other of the_Earees_. I have seen him work at a paddle, in coming to and goingfrom the ship, in common with the other paddlers; and even when some of his_Toutous_ sat looking on. All have free access to him, and speak tohim wherever they see him, without the least ceremony; such is the easyfreedom which every individual of this happy isle enjoys. I have observedthat the chiefs of these isles are more beloved by the bulk of the people, than feared. May we not from hence conclude, that the government is mildand equitable?

We have mentioned that Waheatoua or Tiarabou is related to Otoo. The samemay be said of the chiefs of Eimea, Tapamanoo, Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola; for they are all related to the royal family of Otaheite. Itis a maxim with the _Earees_, and others of superior rank, never tointermarry with the _Toutous_, or others of inferior rank. Probablythis custom is one great inducement to the establishing of the societiescalled _Eareeoies_. It is certain that these societies greatly preventthe increase of the superior classes of people of which they are composed, and do not at all interfere with the inferiors, or _Toutous_; for Inever heard of one of these being an _Eareeoy_. Nor did I ever hearthat a _Toutou_ could rise in life above the rank in which he was born. 

I have occasionally mentioned the extraordinary fondness the people ofOtaheite shewed for red feathers. These they call _Oora_, and they areas valuable here as jewels are in Europe, especially those which they call_Ooravine_, and grow on the head of the green paraquet: Indeed, all redfeathers are esteemed, but none equally with these; and they are such goodjudges as to know very well how to distinguish one sort from another. Manyof our people attempted to deceive them by dying other feathers; but Inever heard that any one succeeded. These feathers they make up in littlebunches, consisting of eight or ten, and fix them to the end of a smallcord about three or four inches long, which is made of the strong outsidefibres of the cocoa-nut, twisted so hard that it is like a wire, and servesas a handle to the bunch. Thus prepared, they are used as symbols of the_Eatuas_, or divinities, in all their religious ceremonies. I haveoften seen them hold one of these bunches, and sometimes only two or threefeathers, between the fore finger and thumb, and say a prayer, not one wordof which I could ever understand. Whoever comes to this island, will dowell to provide himself with red feathers, the finest and smallest that areto be got. He must also have a good stock of axes, and hatchets, spike-nails, files, knives, looking-glasses, beads, &c. Sheets and shirts aremuch sought after, especially by the ladies; as many of our gentlemen foundby experience. 

The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when we were last here, seemed to promise fair for answering the end for which they were put onshore. The ewe soon after had two female kids, which were now so far grownas to be nearly ready to propagate; and the old ewe was again with kid. Thepeople seemed to be very fond of them, and they to like their situation aswell; for they were in excellent condition. From this circumstance we mayhope that, in a few years, they will have some to spare to theirneighbours; and by that means they may in time spread over all the isles inthis ocean. The sheep which we left died soon after, excepting one, whichwe understood was yet alive. We have also furnished them with a stock ofcats; no less than twenty having been given away at this isle, besidesthose which were left at Ulietea and Huaheine. 

 [1] "The good old admiral was so ill that he could not stand on his legs; he was very desirous, however, to come upon deck; we therefore slung a chair on ropes, and hoisted him up in it, to his great delight, and to the astonishment of all his countrymen. Notwithstanding his illness, he told us he was determined to command the expedition against Eimea, saying it was of little consequence if they killed an old man, who could no longer be useful. He was very cheerful under his infirmities, and his way of thinking was nobly disinterested, and seemed to be animated by true heroism. He took leave of us with a degree of cordiality and emotion, which touched the heart, and might have reconciled a misanthrope to the world. "--G. F. -- Who does not see in this noble veteran the radical principles which characterize a British tar? There needs indeed, but a little of the Roman or Grecian painting, to render him a fit _stage-companion_ for almost any of the ancient heroes; and who can tell, but that in some distant æra, when the Otaheitan language shall be read and classical, the drivelling pedants of the south will blazon his fame, as we now do that of his elder fraternity? G. F. Had his eye directed to such a kind of comparison betwixt Greeks and Otaheitans, in a passage which the reader will find in the next note, and which is a fair specimen of that gentleman's lively and entertaining style. --E. 

 [2] "The view of the Otaheitan fleet frequently brought to our minds an idea of the naval force which that nation employed in the first ages of its existence, and induced us to compare them together. The Greeks were doubtless better armed, having the use of metals; but it seemed plain, from the writings of Homer, in spite of poetical embellishment, that their mode of fighting was irregular, and their arms simple, like those of Otaheite. The united efforts of Greece against Troy, in remote antiquity, could not be much more considerable than the armament of Otoo against the isle of Eimea; and the boasted _mille carinæ_ were probably not more formidable than a fleet of large canoes, which require from fifty to an hundred and twenty men, to paddle them. The navigation of the Greeks, in those days, was not more extensive than that which is practised by the Otaheitans at present, being confined to short passages from island to island; and as the stars at night directed the mariners through the Archipelago at that time, so they still continue to guide others in the Pacific Ocean. The Greeks were brave; but the numerous wounds of the Otaheitan chiefs, are all proofs of their spirit and prowess. It seems to be certain, that in their battles they rouse themselves into a kind of phrenzy, and that their bravery is a violent fit of passion. From Homer's battles, it is evident, that the heroism which produced the wonders he records, was exactly of the same nature. Let us for a moment be allowed to carry this comparison still farther. The heroes of Homer are represented to us as men of supernatural size and force. The Otaheitan chiefs, compared to the common people, are so much superior in stature and elegance of form, that they look like a different race. It requires a more than ordinary quantity of food to satisfy stomachs of unusual dimensions. Accordingly we find, that the mighty men at the siege of Troy, and the chiefs of Otaheite, are both famous for eating, and it appears that pork was a diet no less admired by the Greeks, than it is by the Otaheitans at this day. Simplicity of manners is observable in both nations; and their domestic character is hospitable, affectionate, and humane. There is even a similarity in their political constitution. The chiefs of districts at Otaheite are powerful princes, who have not more respect for Otoo than the Greek heroes had for the "king of men;" and the common people are so little noticed in the Iliad, that they appear to have had no greater consequence, than the towtows in the South Seas. In short, I believe the similitude might be traced in many other instances; but it was my intention only to hint at it, and not to abuse the patience of my readers. What I have here said is sufficient to prove, that men in a similar state of civilization resemble each other more than we are aware of, even in the most opposite extremes of the world. "--G. F. -- This gentleman guards against any more particular deductions from such resemblance as he has now noticed, by adverting to the havoc made in history by the modern itch for tracing pedigrees, alluding especially to the affinity imagined betwixt the Egyptians and Chinese. On such subjects, it is certain, human ingenuity has been fruitful of extravagancies, and there is much less risk of absurdity if we abide by merely general inferences; but, on the other hand, it must be admitted, that these are often specious pretexts for avoiding the labours of enquiry, and have very rarely contributed any thing to the stock of useful knowledge. Besides, they are often as fundamentally theoretic, as those more specific notions which they are used to supplant, though far less operative on the minds of those who maintain them, except indeed, in so far as a conceited indolence is concerned, of which, it is often difficult to say, whether they are the parent or the offspring. But at best, your transcendental philosophers are very like those general admirers of the fair sex, who are ready enough to pay compliments which cost them just as little as they signify, but who are too fond of themselves, to squander away on a single individual, any portion of that affection which they think can be much better bestowed elsewhere. Whereas, an attachment to some specific theory, like the ardour of a real lover, excites to active services and solicitous assiduity; and even when it does not obtain its object, is deserving of gratitude at least, and rarely fails to be rewarded by it. --E. 

 [3] The poor fellow, Mr G. F. Informs us, paid a fortnight's confinement in irons for his frolic, a greater price, perhaps, the reader will think, than the matter deserved. One shudders to imagine what would be his anguish at the simple disappointment of his purpose; but that it is possible might render him less sensible to the weight of his bonds. That a solitary hopeless wretch, who had not a friend or relative in any other region of the globe, should form an attachment to these affectionate islanders, and attempt to settle in the midst of their proffered enjoyments, was so imperatively natural, that one cannot help feeling indignation at the mercilessness of an artificial discipline, which exerted so rigorous a retribution. The advantages of this penal system must be great and obvious indeed, that can compensate for such enormous outrage on suffering humanity. G. F. Has allowed himself to reason on this subject, in a way not much calculated to ease the mind of his reader: a short specimen may suffice. "The most favourable prospects of future success in England, which this man might form in idea, could never be so flattering to his senses, as the lowly hope of living like the meanest Otaheitan. It was highly probable that immediately on his return home, instead of indulging in repose those limbs which had been tossed from pole to pole, he would be placed in another ship, where the same fatigues, nocturnal watches, and unwholesome food, would still fall to his share; or though he were allowed to solace himself for a few days, after a long series of hardships, he must expect to be seized in the midst of his enjoyments, and to be dragged an unwilling champion to the defence of his country: to be cut off in the flower of his age, or to remain miserably crippled with only half his limbs, might be the alternatives to which he would be reduced. " But we forbear the distressing theme, and would willingly direct the reader's eye and hopes, to that most beneficent provision for the repose and comfort of our meritorious sailors, which the wisdom of the legislature, too tardily it must be confessed, has lately contemplated. --E. 

SECTION XIV. 

_The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an Account of anExpedition into the Island, and several other Incidents which happenedwhile she lay there. _

At one o'clock in the afternoon, on the 15th, we anchored in the northentrance of O'Wharre harbour, in the island of Huaheine; hoisted out theboats, warped into a proper birth, and moored with the bower and kedgeanchor, not quite a cable's length from the shore. While this was doing, several of the natives made us a visit, amongst whom was old Oree thechief, who brought a hog and some other articles, which he presented to me, with the usual ceremony. 

Next morning, the natives began to bring us fruit. I returned Oree's visit, and made my present to him; one article of which was red feathers. Two orthree of these the chief took in his right hand, holding them up betweenthe finger and thumb, and said a prayer, as I understood, which was littlenoticed by any present. Two hogs were soon after put into my boat, and heand several of his friends came on board and dined with us. After dinnerOree gave me to understand what articles would be most acceptable to himand his friends, which were chiefly axes and nails. Accordingly I gave himwhat he asked, and desired he would distribute them to the others, which hedid, seemingly to the satisfaction of every one. A youth about ten ortwelve years of age, either his son or grandson, seemed to be the person ofmost note, and had the greatest share. 

After the distribution was over, they all returned ashore. Mr Forster andhis party being out in the country botanizing, his servant, a feeble man, was beset by five or six fellows, who would have stripped him, if thatmoment one of the party had not come to his assistance; after which theymade off with a hatchet they had got from him. 

On the 17th, I went ashore to look for the chief, in order to complain ofthe outrage committed as above; but he was not in the neighbourhood. Beingashore in the afternoon, a person came and told me Oree wanted to see me. Iwent with the man, and was conducted to a large house, where the chief andseveral other persons of note were assembled in council, as well as I couldunderstand. After I was seated, and some conversation had passed amongthem, Oree made a speech, and was answered by another. I understood no moreof either, than just to know it regarded the robbery committed the daybefore. The chief then began to assure me, that neither he, nor any onepresent (which were the principal chiefs in the neighbourhood) had any handin it; and desired me to kill, with the guns, all those which had. Iassured him, that I was satisfied that neither he nor those present were atall concerned in the affair; and that I should do with the fellows as hedesired, or any others who were guilty of the like crimes. Having askedwhere the fellows were, and desired they would bring them to me, that Imight do with them as he had said, his answer was, they were gone to themountains, and he could not get them. Whether this was the case or not, Iwill not pretend to say. I knew fair means would never make them deliverthem up; and I had no intention to try others. So the affair dropt, and thecouncil broke up. 

In the evening, some of the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. Thepiece represented a girl as running away with us from Otaheite; which wasin some degree true; as a young woman had taken a passage with us down toUlietea, and happened now to be present at the representation of her ownadventures; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with greatdifficulty our gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out, or torefrain from tears while it was acting. The piece concluded with thereception she was supposed to meet with from her friends at her return;which was not a very favourable one. These people can add little extemporepieces to their entertainments, when they see occasion. Is it not thenreasonable to suppose that it was intended as a satire against this girl, and to discourage others from following her steps?[1]

In the morning of the 18th, Oree came on board with a present of fruit, stayed dinner, and in the afternoon desired to see some great guns fired, shotted, which I complied with. The reason of his making this request washis hearing, from Oedidee, and our Otaheitean passengers, that we had sodone at their island. The chief would have had us fire at the hills; but Idid not approve of that, lest the shot should fall short and do somemischief. Besides, the effect was better seen in the water. Some of thepetty officers, who had leave to go into the country for their amusement, took two of the natives with them to be their guides, and to carry theirbags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. The current cash we traded with here;which the fellows made off with in the following artful manner: Thegentlemen had with them two muskets for shooting birds. After a shower ofrain, their guides pointed out some for them to shoot. One of the musketshaving missed fire several times, and the other having gone off, theinstant the fellows saw themselves secure from both, they ran away, leavingthe gentlemen gazing after them with so much surprise, that no one hadpresence of mind to pursue them. 

The 19th, showery morning; fair afternoon, nothing happened worthy of note. 

Early in the morning of the 20th, three of the officers set out on ashooting party, rather contrary to my inclination; as I found the natives, at least some of them, were continually watching every opportunity to robstraggling parties, and were daily growing more daring. About three o'clockin the afternoon, I got intelligence that they were seized and stripped ofevery thing they had about them. Upon this I immediately went on shore witha boat's crew, accompanied by Mr Forster, and took possession of a largehouse with all its effects, and two chiefs whom I found in it; but this wedid in such a manner, that they hardly knew what we were about, beingunwilling to alarm the neighbourhood. In this situation I remained till Iheard the officers had got back safe, and had all their things restored tothem: Then I quitted the house; and presently after every thing in it wascarried off. When I got on board I was informed of the whole affair by theofficers themselves. Some little insult on their part, induced the nativesto seize their guns, on which a scuffle ensued, some chiefs interfered, took the officers out of the crowd, and caused every thing which had beentaken from them to be restored. This was at a place where we had beforebeen told, that a set of fellows had formed themselves into a gang, with aresolution to rob every one who should go that way. It should seem fromwhat followed, that the chief could not prevent this, or put a stop tothese repeated outrages. I did not see him this evening, as he was not comeinto the neighbourhood when I went on board; but I learnt from Oedidee thathe came soon after, and was so concerned at what had happened that he wept. 

Day-light no sooner broke upon us on the 21st, than we saw upwards of sixtycanoes under sail going out of the harbour, and steering over for Ulietea. On our enquiring the reason, we were told that the people in them were_Eareeois_, and were going to visit their brethren in the neighbouringisles. One may almost compare these men to free-masons; they tell us theyassist each other when need requires; they seem to have customs among themwhich they either will not, or cannot explain. Oedidee told us he was one;Tupia was one; and yet I have not been able to get any tolerable idea ofthis set of men, from either of them. Oedidee denies that the children theyhave by their mistresses are put to death, as we understood from Tupia andothers. I have had some conversation with Omai on this subject, and findthat he confirms every thing that is said upon it in the narrative of myformer voyage. [2]

Oedidee, who generally slept on shore, came off with a message from Oree, desiring I would land with twenty-two men, to go with him to chastise therobbers. The messenger brought with him, by way of assisting his memory, twenty-two pieces of leaves, a method customary amongst them. On myreceiving this extraordinary message, I went to the chief for betterinformation; and all I could learn of him was, that these fellows were asort of banditti, who had formed themselves into a body, with a resolutionof seizing and robbing our people wherever they found them, and were nowarmed for that purpose: For which reason he wanted me to go along with him, to chastise them. I told him, if I went they would fly to the mountains;but he said, they were resolved to fight us, and therefore desired I woulddestroy both them and their house; but begged I would spare those in theneighbourhood, as also the canoes and the _Whenooa_. By way ofsecuring these, he presented me with a pig as a peace-offering for the_Whenooa_. It was too small to be meant for any thing but a ceremonyof this kind. This sensible old chief could see (what perhaps none of theothers ever thought of) that every thing in the neighbourhood was at ourmercy, and therefore took care to secure them by this method, which Isuppose to be of weight with them. When I returned on board, I consideredof the chiefs request, which upon the whole appeared an extraordinary one. I however resolved to go, lest these fellows should be (by our refusal)encouraged to commit greater acts of violence; and, as their proceedingwould soon reach Ulietea, where I intended to go next, the people theremight be induced to treat us in the same manner, or worse, they being morenumerous. Accordingly I landed with forty-eight men, including officers, MrForster, and some other of the gentlemen. The chief joined us with a fewpeople, and we began to march, in search of the banditti, in good order. Aswe proceeded, the chief's party increased like a snow-ball. Oedidee, whowas with us, began to be alarmed, observing that many of the people in ourcompany were of the very party we were going against, and at last tellingus, that they were only leading us to some place where they could attack usto advantage. Whether there was any truth in this, or it was only Oedidee'sfears, I will not pretend to say. He, however, was the only person we couldconfide in. And we regulated our motions according to the information hehad given us. After marching some miles, we got intelligence that the menwe were going after had fled to the mountains; but I think this was nottill I had declared to the chief I would proceed no farther. For we werethen about crossing a deep valley, bounded on each side by steep rocks, where a few men with stones only might have made our retreat difficult, iftheir intentions were what Oedidee had suggested, and which he stillpersisted in. Having come to a resolution to return, we marched back in thesame order as we went, and saw, in several places, people, who had beenfollowing us, coming down from the sides of the hills with their arms intheir hands, which they instantly quitted, and hid in the bushes, when theysaw they were discovered by us. This seemed to prove that there must havebeen some foundation for what Oedidee had said; but I cannot believe thatthe chief had any such design, whatever the people might have. In ourreturn we halted at a convenient place to refresh ourselves. I ordered thepeople to bring us some cocoa-nuts, which they did immediately. Indeed, bythis time, I believe many of them wished us on board out of the way; foralthough no one step was taken that could give them the least alarm, theycertainly were in terror. Two chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, andsome young plantain trees, the usual peace-offerings, and with due ceremonypresented them singly to me. Another brought a very large hog, with whichhe followed us to the ship. After this we continued our course to thelanding-place, where I caused several vollies to be fired, to convince thenatives that we could support a continual fire. This being done, we allembarked and went on board; and soon after the chief following, broughtwith him a quantity of fruit, and sat down with us to dinner. We had scarcedined before more fruit was brought us by others, and two hogs; so that wewere likely to make more by this little excursion than by all the presentswe had made them. It certainly gave them some alarm to see so strong aparty of men march into their country; and probably gave them a betteropinion of fire-arms than they had before. For I believe they had but anindifferent, or rather contemptible, idea of muskets in general, havingnever seen any fired but at birds, &c. By such of our people as used tostraggle about the country, the most of them but indifferent marksmen, losing generally two shots out of three, their pieces often, missing fire, and being slow in charging. Of all this they had taken great notice, andconcluded, as well they might, that fire-arms were not so terrible thingsas they had been taught to believe. 

When the chiefs took leave in the evening, they promised to bring us nextday a very large supply of provisions. In the article of fruit they were asgood as their word, but of hogs, which we most wanted, they brought farless than we expected. Going ashore in the afternoon, I found the chiefjust sitting down to dinner. I cannot say what was the occasion of hisdining so late. As soon as he was seated, several people began chewing thepepper-root; about a pint of the juice of which, without any mixture, wasthe first dish, and was dispatched in a moment. A cup of it was presentedto me; but the manner of brewing it was at this time sufficient. Oedideewas not so nice, but took what I refused. After this the chief washed hismouth with cocoa-nut water; then he eat of repe, plantain, and mahee, ofeach not a little; and, lastly, finished his repast by eating, or ratherdrinking, about three pints of _popoie_, which is made of bread-fruit, plantains, mahee, &c. Beat together and diluted with water till it is ofthe consistence of a custard. This was at the outside of his house, in theopen air; for at this time a play was acting within, as was done almostevery day in the neighbourhood; but they were such poor performances that Inever attended. I observed that, after the juice had been squeezed out ofthe chewed pepper-root for the chief, the fibres were carefully picked upand taken away by one of his servants. On my asking what he intended to dowith it, I was told he would put water to it, and strain it again. Thus hewould make what I will call small beer. 

The 23d, wind easterly, as it had been ever since we left Otaheite. Earlyin the morning, we unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. The goodold chief was the last man who went out of the ship. At parting I told himwe should see each other no more; at which he wept, and said, "Let yoursons come, we will treat them well. " Oree is a good man, in the utmostsense of the word; but many of the people are far from being of thatdisposition, and seem to take advantage of his old age; Teraderre, hisgrandson and heir, being yet but a youth. The gentle treatment the peopleof this isle ever met with from me, and the careless and imprudent mannerin which many of our people had rambled about in the country, from a vainopinion that firearms rendered them invincible, encouraged many at Huaheineto commit acts of violence, which no man at Otaheite ever durst attempt. 

During our stay here we got bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. More than we couldwell-consume, but not hogs enough by far to supply our daily expence; andyet it did not appear that they were scarce in the isle. It must beallowed, however, that the number we took away, when last here, must havethinned them greatly, and at the same time stocked the isle with ourarticles. Besides, we now wanted a proper assortment of trade; what we hadbeing nearly exhausted, and the few remaining red feathers being here butof little value, when compared to the estimation they stand in at Otaheite. This obliged me to set the smiths to work to make different sorts of irontools, nails, &c. In order to enable me to procure refreshments at theother isles, and to support my credit and influence among the natives. 

 [1] "Her parents, from whom she had eloped to Otaheite with a favoured lover some years ago, were still alive, and the force of affection urged her irresistibly to visit them. She had concealed herself on board during Otoo's last visit, as he had expressly ordered that no woman should go with us; but being safe at present, she ventured to make her appearance. She was dressed in a suit of clothes belonging to one of the officers, and was so much pleased with her new garments, that she went ashore in them as soon as she arrived at Huaheine. She dined with the officers without the least scruple, and laughed at the prejudices of her country-women with all the good sense of a citizen of the world. With a proper education she might have shone as a woman of genius even in Europe; since, without the advantage of a cultivated understanding, her great vivacity, joined to very polite manners, already were sufficient to make her company supportable. "--G. F. 

 From some of this gentleman's remarks, as well as what Captain Cook says, it appears that these islanders have pretty correct notions of the relative duty of children and parents. --E. 

 [2] Mr G. F. Has entered upon a pretty minute account of this strange society, and does his best to palliate the enormities of which, there seems no reason to doubt, its really profligate members are almost habitually guilty. That gentleman is certainly liberal in his views of the natives in general, and on the whole appears disposed to give more credit to human nature than, perhaps, it will be found on the closest inspection to deserve. Though it may be conceded to him, that criminal individuals are not more numerous in the Society Islands, than among other people, yet it is obvious, that the discovery of the universal prevelancy of vice does not warrant any person to extenuate its malignity in any particular instances where it occurs. --E. 

SECTION XV. 

_Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met with there, and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A Report of twoships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the Island; and the Regretthe Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The Character of Oedidee; with somegeneral Observations on the Islands. _

As soon as we were clear of the harbour, we made sail, and stood over forthe South end of Ulietea. Oree took the opportunity to send a man with amessage to Opoony. Being little wind all the latter part of the day, it wasdark before we reached the west side of the isle, where we spent the night. The same light variable wind continued till ten o'clock next morning, whenthe trade-wind at east prevailed, and we ventured to ply up to the harbour, first sending a boat to lie in anchorage in the entrance. After making afew trips, we got before the channel, and with all our sails set, and thehead-way the ship had acquired, shut her in as far as she would go; thendropped the anchor, and took in the sails. This is the method of gettinginto most of the harbours which are on the lee-side of these isles; for thechannels, in general, are too narrow to ply in: We were now anchoredbetween the two points of the reef which form the entrance; each not morethan two-thirds the length of a cable from us, and on which the sea brokewith such height and violence, as to people less acquainted with the place, would have been terrible. Having all our boats out with anchors and warpsin them, which were presently run out, the ship warped into safety, wherewe dropt anchor for the night. While this work was going forward, my oldfriend Oree the chief, and several more, came to see us. The chief came notempty. 

Next day we warped the ship into a proper birth, and moored her, so as tocommand all the shores around us. In the mean time a party of us wentashore to pay the chief a visit, and to make the customary present. At ourfirst entering his house, we were met by four or five old women, weepingand lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time cuttingtheir heads, with instruments made of shark's teeth, till the blood ranplentifully down their faces and on their shoulders. What was still worse, we were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by thatmeans were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such)being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately afterappeared as cheerful as any of the company. Having made some little stay, and given my present to the chief and his friends, he put a hog and somefruit into my boat, and came on board with us to dinner. In the afternoon, we had a vast number of people and canoes about us, from different parts ofthe island. They all took up their quarters in our neighbourhood, wherethey remained feasting for some days. We understood the most of them were_Eareeoies_. 

The 26th afforded nothing remarkable, excepting that Mr Forster, in hisbotanical excursions, saw a burying-place for dogs, which they called_Marai no te Oore_. But I think we ought not to look upon this as oneof their customs; because few dogs die a natural death, being generally, ifnot always, killed and eaten, or else given as an offering to the gods. Probably this might be a _Marai_ or altar, where this sort of offeringwas made; or it might have been the whim of some person to have buried hisfavourite dog in this manner. But be it as it will, I cannot think it is ageneral custom in the nation; and, for my own part, I neither saw nor heardof any such thing before. 

Early in the morning of the 27th, Oree, his wife, son, daughter, andseveral more of his friends, made us a visit, and brought with them a goodquantity of all manner of refreshments; little having as yet been got fromany body else. They staid dinner; after which a party of us accompaniedthem on shore, where we were entertained with a play, called _MididijHarramy_, which signifies the _Child is coming_. It concluded withthe representation of a woman in labour, acted by a set of great brawnyfellows, one of whom at last brought forth a strapping boy, about six feethigh, who ran about the stage, dragging after him a large wisp of strawwhich hung by a string from his middle. I had an opportunity of seeing thisacted another time, when I observed, that the moment they had got hold ofthe fellow who represented the child, they flattened or pressed his nose. From this I judged, that they do so by their children when born, which maybe the reason why all in general have flat noses. This part of the play, from its newness, and the ludicrous manner in which it was performed, gaveus, the first time we saw it, some entertainment, and caused a loud laugh, which might be the reason why they acted it so often afterwards. But this, like all their other pieces, could entertain us no more than once;especially as we could gather little from them, for want of knowing more oftheir language. [1]

The 28th was spent by me in much the same manner as the preceding day, viz. In entertaining my friends, and being entertained by them. Mr Forster andhis party in the country botanizing. 

Next morning, we found several articles had been stolen, out of our boatslying at the buoy, about sixty or seventy yards from the ship. As soon as Iwas informed of it, I went to the chief to acquaint him therewith. I foundthat he not only knew they were stolen, but by whom, and where they were;and he went immediately with me in my boat in pursuit of them. Afterproceeding a good way along shore, towards the south end of the island, thechief ordered us to land near some houses, where we did not wait longbefore all the articles were brought to us, except the pinnace's irontiller, which I was told was still farther off. But when I wanted to goafter it, I found the chief unwilling to proceed; and he actually gave methe slip; and retired into the country. Without him I knew I could donothing. The people began to be alarmed when they saw I was for goingfarther; by which I concluded that the tiller was out of their reach also. I therefore sent one of them to the chief to desire him to return. Hereturned accordingly; when we sat down, and had some victuals set beforeus, thinking perhaps that, as I had not breakfasted, I must be hungry, andnot in a good humour. Thus I was amused, till two hogs were produced, whichthey entreated me to accept. This I did, and then their fears vanished; andI thought myself not ill off, in having gotten two good hogs for a thingwhich seemed to be quite out of my reach. Matters being thus settled, wereturned on board, and had the company of the chief and his son to dinner. After that we all went ashore, where a play was acted for the entertainmentof such as would spend their time in looking at it. Besides these plays, which the chief caused frequently to be acted, there was a set of strollingplayers in the neighbourhood, who performed everyday. But their piecesseemed to be so much alike, that we soon grew tired of them; especially aswe could not collect any interesting circumstances from them. We, our ship, and our country, were frequently brought on the stage; but on what accountI know not. It can hardly be doubted, that this was designed as acompliment to us, and probably not acted but when some of us were present. I generally appeared at Oree's theatre towards the close of the play, andtwice at the other, in order to give my mite to the actors. The onlyactress at Oree's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whoseshrine, on these occasions, many offerings were made by her numerousvotaries. This, I believe, was one great inducement to her father's givingus these entertainments so often. 

Early in the morning of the 30th, I set out with the two boats, accompaniedby the two Mr Forsters; Oedidee, the chief, his wife, son, and daughter, for an estate which Oedidee called his, situated at the north end of theisland. There I was promised to have hogs and fruit in abundance; but whenwe came there, we found that poor Oedidee could not command one singlething, whatever right he might have to the _Whenooa_, which was now inpossession of his brother, who, soon after we landed, presented to me, withthe usual ceremony, two pigs. I made him a very handsome present in return, and Oedidee gave him every thing he had left of what he had collectedduring the time he was with us. 

After this ceremony was over, I ordered one of the pigs to be killed anddressed for dinner, and attended myself to the whole operation, which wasas follows:--They first strangled the hog, which was done by three men; thehog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick acrosshis throat, and pressed with all their might on each end; the third manheld his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up his fundament withgrass, I suppose to prevent any air from passing or repassing that way. Inthis manner they held him for about ten minutes before he was quite dead. In the mean time, some hands were employed in making a fire, to heat theoven, which was close by. As soon as the hog was quite dead, they laid himon the fire, and burnt or singed the hair, so that it came off with almostthe same ease as if it had been scalded. As the hair was got off one part, another was applied to the fire till they had got off the whole, yet not soclean but that another operation was necessary; which was to carry it tothe sea side, and there give it a good scrubbing with sandy stones, andsand. This brought off all the scurf, &c. Which the fire had left on. Afterwell washing off the sand and dirt, the carcase was brought again to theformer place, and laid on clean green leaves, in order to be opened. Theyfirst ripped up the skin of the belly, and took out the fat or lard frombetween the skin and the flesh, which they laid on a large green leaf. Thebelly was then ripped open, and the entrails taken out, and carried away ina basket, so that I know not what became of them; but am certain they werenot thrown away. The blood was next taken out, and put into a large leaf, and then the lard, which was put to the other fat. The hog was now washedclean, both inside and out, with fresh water, and several hot stones putinto his belly, which were shaken in under the breast, and green leavescrammed in upon them. By this time the oven was sufficiently heated; whatfire remained was taken away, together with some of the hot stones; therest made a kind of pavement in the bottom of the hole or oven, and werecovered with leaves, on which the hog was placed on his belly. The lard andfat, after being washed with water, were put into a vessel, made just thenof the green bark of the plantain tree, together with two or three hotstones, and placed on one side the hog. A hot stone was put to the blood, which was tied up in the leaf, and put into the oven; as also bread-fruitand plantains. Then the whole was covered with green leaves, on which werelaid the remainder of the hot stones; over them were leaves; then any sortof rubbish they could lay their hands on; finishing the operation by wellcovering the whole with earth. While the victuals were baking, a table wasspread with green leaves on the floor, at one end of a large boat-house. Atthe close of two hours and ten minutes, the oven was opened, and all thevictuals taken out. Those of the natives who dined with us, sat down bythemselves, at one end of the table, and we at the other. The hog wasplaced before us, and the fat and blood before them, on which they chieflydined, and said it was _Mamity_, very good victuals; and we not onlysaid, but thought, the same of the pork. The hog weighed about fiftypounds. Some parts about the ribs I thought rather overdone, but the morefleshy parts were excellent; and the skin, which by the way of our dressingcan hardly be eaten, had, by this method, a taste and flavour superior toany thing I ever met with of the kind. I have now only to add, that duringthe whole of the various operations, they exhibited a cleanliness wellworthy of imitation. I have been the more particular in this account, because I do not remember that any of us had seen the whole process before;nor is it well described in the narrative of my former voyage. 

While dinner was preparing, I took a view of this _Whenooa_ ofOedidee. It was a small, but a pleasant spot; and the houses were sodisposed as to form a very pretty village, which is very rarely the case atthese isles, Soon after we had dined, we set out for the ship, with theother pig, and a few races of plantains, which proved to be the sum totalof our great expectations. 

In our return to the ship, we put ashore at a place where, in the corner ofa house, we saw four wooden images, each two feet long, standing on ashelf, having a piece of cloth round their middle, and a kind of turban ontheir heads, in which were stuck long feathers of cocks. A person in thehouse told us they were _Eatua no te Toutou_, gods of the servants orslaves. I doubt if this be sufficient to conclude that they pay them divineworship, and that the servants or slaves are not allowed the same gods asmen of more elevated rank; I never heard that Tupia made any suchdistinction, or that they worshipped any visible thing whatever. Besides, these were the first wooden gods we had seen in any of the isles; and allthe authority we had for their being such, was the bare word of perhaps asuperstitious person, and whom, too, we were liable to misunderstand. Itmust be allowed that the people of this isle are in general moresuperstitious than at Otaheite. At the first visit I made the chief afterour arrival, he desired I would not suffer any of my people to shoot heronsand wood-peckers; birds as sacred with them as robin-red-breasts, swallows, &c. Are with many old women in England. Tupia, who was a priest, and wellacquainted with their religion, customs, traditions, &c. Paid little or noregard to these birds. I mention this, because some amongst us were ofopinion that these birds are their _Eatuas_, or gods. We indeed fellinto this opinion when I was here in 1769, and into some others still moreabsurd, which we had undoubtedly adopted, if Tupia had not undeceived us. Aman of his knowledge and understanding we have not since met with, andconsequently have added nothing to his account of their religion butsuperstitious notions. [2]

On the 31st, the people knowing that we should sail soon, began to bringmore fruit on board than usual. Among those who came was a young man whomeasured six feet four inches and six-tenths; and his sister, younger, thanhim, measured five feet ten inches and a half. A brisk trade for hogs andfruit continued on the 1st of June. On the 2d, in the afternoon, we gotintelligence that, three days before, two ships had arrived at Huaheine. The same report said, the one was commanded by Mr Banks, and the other byCaptain Furneaux. The man who brought the account said, he was made drunkon board one of them, and described the persons of Mr Banks and CaptainFurneaux so well, that I had not the least doubt of the truth, and began toconsider about sending a boat over that very evening with orders to CaptainFurneaux, when a man, a friend of Mr Forster, happened to come on board anddenied the whole, saying it was _wà warre_, a lie. The man from whomwe had the intelligence was now gone, so that we could not confront them, and there were none else present who knew any thing about it but by report;so that I laid aside sending over a boat till I should be better informed. This evening we entertained the people with fire-works, on one of thelittle isles near the entrance of the harbour. 

I had fixed on the next day for sailing, but the intelligence from Huaheineput a stop to it. The chief had promised to bring the man on board whofirst brought the account; but he was either not to be found, or would notappear. In the morning, the people were divided in their opinions; but inthe afternoon, all said it was a false report. I had sent Mr Clerke, in themorning, to the farthest part of the island, to make enquiries there; hereturned without learning any thing satisfactory. In short, the reportappeared now too ill founded to authorize me to send a boat over, or towait any longer here; and therefore, early in the morning of the 4th, I gotevery thing in readiness to sail. Oree the chief, and his whole family, came on board, to take their last farewell, accompanied by Oo-oo-rou, the_Earee di hi_, and Boba, the _Earee_ of Otaha, and several oftheir friends. None of them came empty; but Oo-oo-rou brought a prettylarge present, this being his first and only visit. I distributed amongstthem almost every thing I had left. The very hospitable manner in which Ihad ever been received by these people, had endeared them to me, and giventhem a just title to everything in my power to grant. I questioned themagain about the ships at Huaheine; and they all, to a man, denied that anywere there. During the time these people remained on board, they werecontinually importuning me to return. The chief, his wife and daughter, butespecially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. I will not pretendto say whether it was real or feigned grief they shewed on this occasion. Perhaps there was a mixture of both; but were I to abide by my own opiniononly, I should believe it was real. At last, when we were about to weigh, they took a most affectionate leave. Oree's last request was for me toreturn; when he saw he could not obtain that promise, he asked the name ofmy _Marai_ (burying-place). As strange a question as this was, Ihesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney; the parish in which I live whenin London. I was made to repeat it several times over till they couldpronounce it; then, Stepney _Marai no Toote_ was echoed through anhundred mouths at once. I afterwards found the same question had been putto Mr Forster by a man on shore; but he gave a different, and indeed moreproper answer, by saying, no man, who used the sea, could say where heshould be buried. It is the custom, at these isles, for all the greatfamilies to have burial-places of their own, where their remains areinterred. These go with the estate to the next heir. The _Marai_ atOparee in Otaheite, when Tootaha swayed the sceptre, was called _Marai noTootaha_; but now it is called _Marai no Otoo_. What greater proofcould we have of these people esteeming us as friends, than their wishingto remember us, even beyond the period of our lives? They had beenrepeatedly told that we should see them no more; they then wanted to knowwhere we were to mingle with our parent dust. As I could not promise, oreven suppose, that more English ships would be sent to those isles, ourfaithful companion Oedidee chose to remain in his native country. But heleft us with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem he bore to us; norcould any thing but the fear of never returning, have torn him from us. When the chief teased me so much about returning, I sometimes gave suchanswers as left them hopes. Oedidee would instantly catch at this, take meon one side, and ask me over again. In short, I have not words to describethe anguish which appeared in this young man's breast when he went away. Helooked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. The maxim, that a prophet has no honour in his own country, was never morefully verified than in this youth. At Otaheite he might have had any thingthat was in their power to bestow; whereas here he was not in the leastnoticed. He was a youth of good parts, and, like most of his countrymen, ofa docile, gentle, and humane disposition, but in a manner wholly ignorantof their religion, government, manners, customs, and traditions;consequently no material knowledge could have been gathered from him, had Ibrought him away. Indeed, he would have been a better specimen of thenation, in every respect, than Omai. Just as Oedidee was going out of theship, he asked me to _Tatou_ some _Parou_ for him, in order toshew the commanders of any other ships which might stop here. I compliedwith his request, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with us, and recommended him to the notice of those who might afterwards touch atthe island. 

We did not get clear of our friends till eleven o'clock, when we weighed, and put to sea; but Oedidee did not leave us till we were almost out of theharbour. He staid, in order to fire some guns; for it being his majesty'sbirthday, we fired the salute at going away. 

When I first came to these islands, I had some thought of visiting Tupia'sfamous Bolabola. But as I had now got on board a plentiful supply of allmanner of refreshments, and the route I had in view allowing me no time tospare, I laid this design aside, and directed my course to the west; takingour final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spreadher luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand. The natives, copying the bounty ofNature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to thewants of navigators. During the six weeks we had remained at them, we hadfresh pork, and all the fruits which were in season, in the utmostprofusion; besides fish at Otaheite, and fowls at the other isles. Allthese articles we got in exchange for axes, hatchets, nails, chissels, cloth, red feathers, beads, knives, scissars, looking-glasses, &c. Articleswhich will ever be valuable here. I ought not to omit shirts as a verycapital article in making presents; especially with those who have anyconnexion with the fair sex. A shirt here is full as necessary as a pieceof gold in England. The ladies at Otaheite, after they had pretty wellstripped their lovers of shirts, found a method of clothing themselves withtheir own cloth. It was their custom to go on shore every morning, and toreturn on board in the evening, generally clad in rags. This furnished apretence to importune the lover for better clothes; and when he had no moreof his own, he was to dress them in new cloth of the country, which theyalways left ashore; and appearing again in rags, they must again beclothed. So that the same suit might pass through twenty different hands, and be as often sold, bought, and given away. 

Before I finish this account of these islands, it is necessary to mentionall I know concerning the government of Ulietea and Otaha. Oree, so oftenmentioned, is a native of Bolabola; but is possessed of _Whenooas_ orlands at Ulietea; which I suppose he, as well as many of his countrymen, got at the conquest. He resides here as Opoony's lieutenant; seeming to bevested with regal authority, and to be the supreme magistrate in theisland. Oo-oo-rou, who is the _Earee_ by hereditary right, seems tohave little more left him than the bare title, and his own _Whenooa_or district, in which I think he is sovereign. I have always seen Oree payhim the respect due to his rank; and he was pleased when he saw medistinguish him from others. 

Otaha, so far as I can find, is upon the very same footing. Boba and Otaare the two chiefs; the latter I have not seen; Boba is a stout, well-madeyoung man; and we were told is, after Opoony's death, to marry hisdaughter, by which marriage he will be vested with the same regal authorityas Opoony has now; so that it should seem, though a woman may be vestedwith regal dignity, she cannot have regal power. I cannot find that Opoonyhas got any thing to himself by the conquest of these isles, any fartherthan providing for his nobles, who have seized on best part of the lands. He seems to have no demand on them for any of the many articles they havehad from us. Oedidee has several times enumerated to me all the axes, nails, &c. Which Opoony is possessed of, which hardly amount to as many ashe had from me when I saw him in 1769. Old as this famous man is, he seemsnot to spend his last days in indolence. When we first arrived here, he wasat Maurana; soon after he returned to Bolabola; and we were now told, hewas gone to Tubi. 

I shall conclude this account of these islands, with some observations onthe watch which Mr Wales hath communicated to me. At our arrival in MatavaiBay in Otaheite, the longitude pointed out by the watch was 2° 8' 38" ½ toofar to the west; that is, it had gained, since our leaving QueenCharlotte's Sound, of its then rate of going, 8' 34" 1/2. This was in aboutfive months, or rather more, during which time it had passed through theextremes of cold and heat. It was judged that half this error arose afterwe left Easter Island; by which it appeared that it went better in the coldthan in the hot climates. 

 [1] "The man who acted the part of the woman in labour went through the gestures which the Greeks were wont to admire in the groves of Venus-Ariadne, near Amathus, where the same ceremony was acted on the second day of the month Gorpioeus, in memory of Ariadne, who died in child-bed. Thus it appears that there is scarcely a practice, though ever so ridiculous, existing in any corner of the world, that has not been hit upon by the extravagant fancy of men in some other region. A tall, stout fellow, dressed in cloth, personated the new-born infant in such a ludicrous style, that we could not refuse joining in the plaudits which his countrymen bestowed on him. Anatomists and midwives would have been surprised to observe, that this overgrown babe had every necessary character of a child newly born; but the natives were particularly delighted with his running about the stage, whilst the rest of the dancers endeavoured to catch him. The ladies were much pleased with this scene, which, according to the simplicity of their ideas, had not the least indecency; they looked on, therefore, unconcernedly, and were not obliged, like some European dames, to peep through their fans. "--G. F. 

 [2] The two Forsters, particularly the father, a man of great sagacity and of very acute discernment, paid much attention to this interesting subject. The information they procured is contained in their respective works, and is, as might be expected, very similar. From this it would have been easy to add to the contents of the text. But this has been avoided, principally because we may perhaps present the reader with the substance of Forster's observations, in a connected form, on another occasion. That publication indeed is a treasure of most curious and important matter, deserving to be more extensively known, than there is reason to believe it now is. --E. 

CHAPTER III. 

FROM ULIETEA TO NEW ZEALAND. 

SECTION I. 

_Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Isles, with a Description ofseveral Islands that were discovered, and the Incidents which happened inthat Track. _

On the 6th, being the day after leaving Ulietea, at eleven o'clock a. M. , wesaw land bearing N. W. , which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a lowreef island about four leagues in compass, and of a circular form. It iscomposed of several small patches connected together by breakers, thelargest lying on the N. E. Part. This is Howe Island, discovered by CaptainWallis, who, I think, sent his boat to examine it; and, if I have not beenmisinformed, found a channel through, within the reef, near the N. W. Part. The inhabitants of Ulietea speak of an uninhabited island about thissituation, called by them Mopeha, to which they go at certain seasons forturtle. Perhaps, this may be the same; as we saw no signs of inhabitantsupon it. Its latitude is 16° 46' S. Longitude 154° 8' W. 

From this day to the 16th, we met nothing remarkable, and our course waswest southerly; the winds variable from north round by the east to S. W. , attended with cloudy, rainy, unsettled weather, and a southerly swell. Wegenerally brought-to, or stood upon a wind during night; and in the daymade all the sail we could. About half an hour after sun-rise this morning, land was seen from the top-mast head, bearing N. N. E. We immediately alteredthe course, and steering for it, found it to be another reef island, composed of five or six woody islets, connected together by sand-banks andbreakers inclosing a lake, into which we could see no entrance. We rangedthe west and N. W. Coasts, from its southern to its northern-extremity, which is about two leagues, and so near the shore, that at one time wecould see the rocks under us; yet we found no anchorage, nor saw we anysigns of inhabitants. There were plenty of various kinds of birds, and thecoast seemed to abound with fish. The situation of this isle is not verydistant from that assigned by Mr Dalrymple for La Sagitaria, discovered byQuiros; but, by the description the discoverer has given of it, it cannotbe the same. For this reason, I looked upon it as a new discovery, andnamed it Palmerston Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston, one of the lordsof the Admiralty. It is situated in latitude 18° 4' S. Longitude 163° 10'W. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon, we left this isle, and resumed our courseto the W. By S. With a fine steady gale easterly, till noon on the 20th, atwhich time, being in latitude 18° 50', longitude 168° 52, we thought we sawland to S. S. W. And hauled up for it accordingly. But two hours after, wediscovered our mistake, and resumed our course W. By S. Soon after, we sawland from the mast-head in the same direction; and, as we drew nearer, found it to be an island, which, at five o'clock, bore west, distant fiveleagues. Here we spent the night plying under the topsails; and at day-break next morning, bore away, steering to the northern point, and rangingthe west coast at the distance of one mile, till near noon. Then perceivingsome people on the shore, and landing seeming to be easy, we brought-to, and hoisted out two boats, with which I put off to the land, accompanied bysome of the officers and gentlemen. As we drew near the shore, some of theinhabitants, who were on the rocks, retired to the woods, to meet us, as wesupposed; and we afterwards found our conjectures right. We landed withease in a small creek, and took post on a high rock to prevent a surprise. Here we displayed our colours, and Mr Forster and his party began tocollect plants, &c. The coast was so over-run with woods, bushes, plants, stones, &c. That we could not see forty yards round us. I took two men, andwith them entered a kind of chasm, which opened a way into the woods. Wehad not gone far before we heard the natives approaching; upon which Icalled to Mr Forster to retire to the party, as I did likewise. We had nosooner joined than the islanders appeared at the entrance of a chasm not astone's throw from us. We began to speak, and make all the friendly signswe could think of, to them, which they answered by menaces; and one of twomen, who were advanced before the rest, threw a stone, which struck MrSparrman on the arm. Upon this two muskets were fired, without order, whichmade them all retire under cover of the woods; and we saw them no more. 

After waiting for some little time, and till we were satisfied nothing wasto be done here, the country being so overrun with bushes, that it washardly possible to come to parley with them, we embarked and proceeded downalong shore, in hopes of meeting with better success in another place. After ranging the coast for some miles, without seeing a living soul, orany convenient landing-place, we at length came before a small beach, onwhich lay four canoes. Here we landed by means of a little creek, formed bythe flat rocks before it, with a view of just looking at the canoes, and toleave some medals, nails, &c. In them; for not a soul was to be seen. Thesituation of this place was to us worse than the former. A flat rock laynext the sea; behind it a narrow stone beach; this was bounded by aperpendicular rocky cliff of unequal height, whose top was covered withshrubs; two deep and narrow chasms in the cliff seemed to open acommunication into the country. In or before one of these lay the fourcanoes which we were going to look at; but in the doing of this, I saw weshould be exposed to an attack from the natives, if there were any, withoutbeing in a situation proper for defence. To prevent this, as much as couldbe, and to secure a retreat in case of an attack, I ordered the men to bedrawn up upon the rock, from whence they had a view of the heights; andonly myself, and four of the gentlemen, went up to the canoes. We had beenthere but a few minutes, before the natives, I cannot say how many, rusheddown the chasm out of the wood upon us. The endeavours we used to bringthem to a parley, were to no purpose; for they came with the ferocity ofwild boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged in theair did not hinder one of them from advancing still farther, and throwinganother dart, or rather a spear, which passed close over my shoulder. Hiscourage would have cost him his life, had not my musket missed fire; for Iwas not five paces from him when he threw his spear, and had resolved toshoot him to save myself. I was glad afterwards that it happened as it did. At this instant, our men on the rock began to fire at others who appearedon the heights, which abated the ardour of the party we were engaged with, and gave us time to join our people, when I caused the firing to cease. Thelast discharge sent all the islanders to the woods, from whence they didnot return so long as we remained. We did not know that any were hurt. Itwas remarkable, that when I joined our party, I tried my musket in the air, and it went off as well as a piece could do. Seeing no good was to be gotwith these people, or at the isle, as having no port, we returned on board, and having hoisted in the boats, made sail to the W. S. W. I had forgot tomention in its proper order, that having put ashore a little before we cameto this last place, three or four of us went upon the cliffs, where wefound the country, as before, nothing but coral rocks, all over-run withbushes, so that it was hardly possible to penetrate into it; and weembarked again with intent to return directly on board, till we saw thecanoes; being directed to the place by the opinion of some of us, whothought they heard some people. 

The conduct and aspect of these islanders occasioned my naming it SavageIsland. It is situated in the latitude 19° 1' S. Longitude 169° 37' W. Itis about eleven leagues in circuit; of a round form, and good height; andhath deep waters close to its shores. All the sea-coast, and as far inlandas we could see, is wholly covered with trees, shrubs, &c. ; amongst whichwere some cocoa-nut trees; but what the interior parts may produce we knownot. To judge of the whole garment by the skirts, it cannot produce much;for so much as we saw of it consisted wholly of coral rocks, all over-runwith woods and bushes. Not a bit of soil was to be seen; the rocks alonesupplying the trees with humidity. If these coral rocks were first formedin the sea by animals, how came they thrown up to such an height? Has thisisland been raised by an earthquake? Or has the sea receded from it? Somephilosophers have attempted to account for the formation of low isles, suchas are in the sea; but I do not know that any thing has been said of highislands, or such as I have been speaking of. In this island, not only theloose rocks which cover the surface, but the cliffs which bound the shores, are of coral stone, which the continual beating of the sea has formed intoa variety of curious caverns, some of them very large: The roof or rockover them being supported by pillars, which the foaming waves have formedinto a multitude of shapes, and made more curious than the cavernsthemselves. In one we saw light was admitted through a hole at the top; inanother place, we observed that the whole roof of one of these caverns hadsunk in, and formed a kind of valley above, which lay considerably belowthe circumjacent rocks. 

I can say but little of the inhabitants, who, I believe, are not numerous. They seemed to be stout well-made men, were naked except round the waists, and some of them had their faces, breasts, and thighs painted black. Thecanoes were precisely like those of Amsterdam; with the addition of alittle rising like a gunwale on each side of the open part; and had somecarving about them, which shewed that these people are full as ingenious. Both these islanders and their canoes agree very well with the descriptionM. De Bougainville has given of those he saw off the Isle of Navigators, which lies nearly under the same meridian. 

After leaving Savage Island, we continued to steer W. S. W. With a fineeasterly trade-wind, till the 24th in the evening, when, judging ourselvesnot far from Rotterdam, we brought-to, and spent the night plying under thetop-sails. At daybreak next morning, we bore away west; and soon after, sawa string of islands extending from S. S. W. By the west to N. N. W. The windbeing at N. E. , we hauled to N. W. , with a view of discovering moredistinctly the isles in that quarter; but, presently after, we discovered areef of rocks a-head, extending on each bow farther than we could see. Aswe could not weather them, it became necessary to tack and bear up to thesouth, to look for a passage that way. At noon the southernmost island boreS. W. , distant four miles. North of this isle were three others, allconnected by breakers, which we were not sure did not join to those we hadseen in the morning, as some were observed in the intermediate space. Someislands were also seen to the west of those four; but Rotterdam was not yetin sight. Latitude 20° 23' S. Longitude 174° 6' W. During the wholeafternoon, we had little wind; so that at sunset, the southernmost islebore W. N. W. , distant five miles; and some breakers, we had seen to thesouth, bore now S. S. W. 1/2 W. Soon after it fell calm, and we were left tothe mercy of a great easterly swell; which, however, happened to have nogreat effect upon the ship. The calm continued till four o'clock the nextmorning, when it was succeeded by a breeze from the south. At day-light, perceiving a likelihood of a passage between the islands to the north andthe breakers to the south, we stretched in west, and soon after saw moreislands, both to the S. W. And N. W. , but the passage seemed open and clear. Upon drawing near the islands, we sounded, and found forty-five and fortyfathoms, a clear sandy bottom. I was now quite easy, since it was in ourpower to anchor, in case of a calm; or to spend the night, if we found nopassage. Towards noon some canoes came off to us from one of the isles, having two or three people in each; who advanced boldly alongside, andexchanged some cocoa-nuts, and shaddocks, for small nails. They pointed outto us Anamocka, or Rotterdam; an advantage we derived from knowing theproper names. They likewise gave us the names of some of the other isles, and invited us much to go to theirs, which they called Cornango. The breezefreshening, we left them astern, and steered for Anamocka; meeting with aclear passage, in which we found unequal sounding, from forty to ninefathoms, depending, I believe, in a great measure, on our distance from theislands which form it. 

As we drew near the south end of Rotterdam, or Anamocka, we were met by anumber of canoes, laden with fruit and roots; but as I did not shortensail, we had but little traffic with them. The people in one canoe enquiredfor me by name; a proof that these people have an intercourse with those ofAmsterdam. They importuned us much to go towards their coast, letting usknow, as we understood them, that we might anchor there. This was on theS. W. Side of the island, where the coast seemed to be sheltered from the S. And S. E. Winds; but as the day was far spent, I could not attempt to go inthere, as it would have been necessary to have sent first a boat to examineit. I therefore stood for the north side of the island, where we anchoredabout three-fourths of a mile from shore; the extremes of it bearing south, 88° E. To S. W. ; a cove with a sandy beach at the bottom of it S. 50° E. 

SECTION II. 

_Reception at Anamocka; a Robbery and its Consequences, with a Variety ofother Incidents. Departure from the Island. A sailing Canoe described. SomeObservations on the Navigation of these Islanders. A Description of theIsland, and of those in the Neighbourhood, with some Account of theInhabitants, and nautical Remarks. _

Before we had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts incanoes, bringing with them yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged forsmall nails and old rags. One man taking a vast liking to our lead andline, got hold of it, and, in spite of all the threats I could make use of, cut the line with a stone; but a discharge of small shot made him returnit. Early in the morning, I went ashore with Mr Gilbert to look for freshwater. We landed in the cove above-mentioned, and were received with greatcourtesy by the natives. After I had distributed some presents amongstthem, I asked for water, and was conducted to a pond of it that wasbrackish, about three-fourths of a mile from the landing-place, which Isupposed to be the same that Tasman watered at. In the mean time, thepeople in the boat had laden her with fruit and roots, which the nativeshad brought down, and exchanged for nails and beads. On our return to theship, I found the same sort of traffic carrying on there. After breakfast, I went ashore with two boats to trade with the people, accompanied byseveral of the gentlemen, and ordered the launch to follow with casks to befilled with water. The natives assisted us to roll them to and from thepond; and a nail or a bead was the expence of their labour. Fruits androots, especially shaddocks and yams, were brought down in such plenty, that the two boats were laden, sent off, cleared, and laden a second time, before noon; by which time also the launch had got a full supply of water, and the botanical and shooting parties had all come in, except the surgeon, for whom we could not wait, as the tide was ebbing fast out of the cove;consequently he was left behind. As there is no getting into the cove witha boat, from between half-ebb to half-flood, we could get off no water inthe afternoon. However, there is a very good landing-place, without it, near the southern point, where boats can get ashore at all times of thetide. Here some of the officers landed after dinner, where they found thesurgeon, who had been robbed of his gun. Having come down to the shore sometime after the boats had put off, he got a canoe to bring him on board;but, as he was getting into her, a fellow snatched hold of the gun, and ranoff with it. After that no one would carry him to the ship, and they wouldhave stripped him, as he imagined, had he not presented a tooth-pick case, which they, no doubt, thought was a little gun. As soon as I heard of this, I landed at the place above-mentioned, and the few natives who were therefled at my approach. After landing I went in search of the officers, whom Ifound in the cove, where we had been in the morning, with a good many ofthe natives about them. No step had been taken to recover the gun, nor didI think proper to take any; but in this I was wrong. The easy manner ofobtaining this gun, which they now, no doubt, thought secure in theirpossession, encouraged them to proceed in these tricks, as will soonappear. The alarm the natives had caught being soon over, they carriedfruit, &c. To the boats, which got pretty well laden before night, when weall returned on board. 

Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Clerke, with the master andfourteen or fifteen men, went on shore in the launch for water. I didintend to have followed in another boat myself, but rather unluckilydeferred it till after breakfast. The launch was no sooner landed than thenatives gathered about her, behaving in so rude a manner, that the officerswere in some doubt if they should land their casks; but, as they expectedme on shore soon, they ventured, and with difficulty got them filled, andinto the boat again. In the doing of this Mr Clerke's gun was snatched fromhim, and carried off; as were also some of the cooper's tools; and severalof the people were stripped of one thing or another. All this was done, asit were, by stealth; for they laid hold of nothing by main force. I landedjust as the launch was ready to put off; and the natives, who were prettynumerous on the beach, as soon as they saw me, fled; so that I suspectedsomething had happened. However, I prevailed on many to stay, and Mr Clerkecame, and informed me of all the preceding circumstances. I quickly came toa resolution to oblige them to make restitution; and, for this purpose, ordered all the marines to be armed and sent on shore. Mr Forster and hisparty being gone into the country, I ordered two or three guns to be firedfrom the ship, in order to alarm him; not knowing how the natives might acton this occasion. These orders being given, I sent all the boats off butone, with which I staid, having a good many of the natives about me, whobehaved with their usual courtesy. I made them so sensible of my intention, that long before the marines came, Mr Clerke's musket was brought; but theyused many excuses to divert me from insisting on the other. At length MrEdgcumbe arriving with the marines, this alarmed them so much, that somefled. The first step I took was to seize on two large double sailingcanoes, which were in the cove. One fellow making resistance, I fired somesmall shot at him, and sent him limping off. The natives being nowconvinced that I was in earnest, all fled; but on my calling to them, manyreturned; and, presently after, the other musket was brought, and laid downat my feet. That moment, I ordered the canoes to be restored, to shew themon what account they were detained. The other things we had lost being ofless value, I was the more indifferent about them. By this time the launchwas ashore for another turn of water, and we were permitted to fill thecasks without any one daring to come near us; except one man, who hadbefriended us during the whole affair, and seemed to disapprove of theconduct of his countrymen. 

On my returning from the pond to the cove, I found a good many peoplecollected together, from whom we understood that the man I had fired at wasdead. This story I treated as improbable, and addressed a man, who seemedof some consequence, for the restitution of a cooper's adze we had lost inthe morning. He immediately sent away two men, as I thought, for it; but Isoon found that we had greatly mistaken each other; for instead of theadze, they brought the wounded man, stretched out on a board, and laid himdown by me, to all appearance dead. I was much moved at the sight; but soonsaw my mistake, and that he was only wounded in the hand and thigh. I, therefore, desired he might be carried out of the sun, and sent for thesurgeon to dress his wounds. In the mean time, I addressed several peoplefor the adze; for as I had now nothing else to do, I determined to have it. The one I applied the most to, was an elderly woman, who had always a greatdeal to say to me, from my first landing; but, on this occasion, she gaveher tongue full scope. I understood but little of her eloquence; and all Icould gather from her arguments was, that it was mean in me to insist onthe return of so trifling a thing. But when she found I was determined, sheand three or four more women went away; and soon after the adze was broughtme, but I saw her no more. This I was sorry for, as I wanted to make her apresent, in return for the part she had taken in all our transactions, private as well as public. For I was no sooner returned from the pond, thefirst time I landed, than this old lady presented to me a girl, giving meto understand she was at my service. Miss, who probably had received herinstructions, wanted, as a preliminary article, a spike-nail or a shirt, neither of which I had to give her, and soon made them sensible of mypoverty. I thought, by that means, to have come off with flying colours;but I was mistaken; for they gave me to understand I might retire with heron credit. On my declining this proposal, the old lady began to argue withme; and then abuse me. Though I comprehended little of what she said, heractions were expressive enough, and shewed that her words were to thiseffect, sneering in my face, saying, What sort of a man are you, thus torefuse the embraces of so fine a young woman? For the girl certainly didnot want beauty; which, however, I could better withstand, than the abusesof this worthy matron, and therefore hastened into the boat. They wanted meto take the young lady aboard; but this could not be done, as I had givenstrict orders, before I went ashore, to suffer no woman, on any pretencewhatever, to come into the ship, for reasons which I shall mention inanother place. 

As soon as the surgeon got ashore, he dressed the man's wounds, and bledhim; and was of opinion that he was in no sort of danger, as the shot haddone little more than penetrate the skin. In the operation, some poulticebeing wanting, the surgeon asked for ripe plantains; but they broughtsugar-cane, and having chewed it to a pulp, gave it him to apply to thewound. This being of a more balsamic nature than the other; proves thatthese people have some knowledge of simples. As soon as the man's woundswere dressed, I made him a present, which his master, or at least the manwho owned the canoe, took, most probably to himself. Matters being thussettled apparently to the satisfaction of all parties, we repaired on boardto dinner, where I found a good supply of fruit and roots, and, therefore, gave orders to get every thing in readiness to sail. 

I now was informed of a circumstance which was observed on board; severalcanoes being at the ship, when the great guns were fired in the morning, they all retired, but one man, who was bailing the water out of his canoe, which lay alongside directly under the guns. When the first was fired, hejust looked up, and then, quite unconcerned, continued his work. Nor hadthe second gun any other effect upon him. He did not stir till the waterwas all out of his canoe, when he paddled leisurely off. This man had, several times, been observed to take fruit and roots out of other canoes, and sell them to us. If the owners did not willingly part with them, hetook them by force; by which he obtained the appellation of custom-houseofficer. One time, after he had been collecting tribute, he happened to belying alongside of a sailing canoe which was on board. One of her peopleseeing him look another way, and his attention otherwise engaged, took theopportunity of stealing somewhat out of his canoe; they then put off, andset their sail. But the man, perceiving the trick they had played him, darted after them, and having soon got on board their canoe, beat him whohad taken his things, and not only brought back his own, but many otherarticles which he took from them. This man had likewise been observedmaking collections on shore at the trading-place. I remembered to have seenhim there; and, on account of his gathering tribute, took him to be a manof consequence, and was going to make him a present; but some of theirpeople would not let me, saying he was no _Areeke_ (that is, chief). He had his hair always powdered with some kind of white dust. 

As we had no wind to sail this afternoon, a party of us went ashore in theevening. We found the natives everywhere courteous and obliging; so that, had we made a longer stay, it is probable we should have had no more reasonto complain of their conduct. While I was now on shore, I got the names oftwenty islands, which lie between the N. W. And N. E. , some of them in sight. Two of them, which lie most to the west, viz. Amattafoa and Oghao, areremarkable on account of their great height. In Amattafoa, which is thewesternmost, we judged there was a volcano, by the continual column ofsmoke we saw daily ascending from the middle of it. 

Both Mr Cooper and myself being on shore at noon, Mr Wales could not windup the watch at the usual time; and, as we did not come on board till latein the afternoon, it was forgotten till it was down. This circumstance wasof no consequence, as Mr Wales had had several altitudes of the sun at thisplace, before it went down; and also had opportunities of taking someafter. 

At day-break on the 29th, having got under sail with a light breeze atwest, we stood to the north for the two high islands; but the wind, scanting upon us, carried us in amongst the low isles and shoals; so that, we had to ply, to clear them. This gave time for a great many canoes to getup with us. The people in them brought for traffic various articles; someroots, fruits, and fowls, but of the latter not many. They took in exchangesmall nails, and pieces of any kind of cloth. I believe, before they wentaway, they stripped the most of our people of the few clothes the ladies atOtaheite had left them; for the passion for curiosities was as great asever. Having got clear of the low isles, we made a stretch to the south, and did but fetch a little to windward of the south end of Anamocka; sothat we got little by this day's plying. Here we spent the night, makingshort boards over that space with which we had made ourselves acquaintedthe preceding day. 

On the 30th at day-break, stretched out for Amattafoa, with a gentle breezeat W. S. W. Day no sooner dawned than we saw canoes coming from all parts. Their traffic was much the same as it had been the day before, or ratherbetter; for out of one canoe I got two pigs, which were scarce articleshere. At four in the afternoon, we drew near the island of Amattafoa, andpassed between it and Oghao, the channel being two miles broad, safe, andwithout soundings. While we were in the passage, we had little wind andcalms. This gave time for a large sailing double canoe, which had beenfollowing us all the day, as well as some others with paddles, to come upwith us. I had now an opportunity to verify a thing I was before in doubtabout, which was, whether or no some of these canoes did not, in changingtacks, only shift the sail, and so proceed with that end foremost, whichbefore was the stern. The one we now saw wrought in this manner. The sailis latteen, extending to a latteen yard above, and to a boom at the foot;in one word, it is like a whole mizzen, supposing the whole foot to beextended to a boom. The yard is slung nearly in the middle, or upon anequipoise. When they change tacks they throw the vessel up in the wind, ease off the sheet, and bring the heel or tack-end of the yard to the otherend of the boat, and the sheet in like manner; there are notches, orsockets, at each end of the vessel in which the end of the yard fixes. Inshort, they work just as those do at the Ladrone Islands, according to MrWalter's description. [1] When they want to sail large, or before the wind, the yard is taken out of the socket and squared. It most be observed, thatall their sailing vessels are not rigged to sail in the same manner. Some, and those of the largest size, are rigged, so as to tack about. These havea short but pretty stout mast, which steps on a kind of roller that isfixed to the deck near the fore-part. It is made to lean or incline verymuch forward; the head is forked; on the two points of which the yardrests, as on two pivots, by means of two strong cleats of wood secured toeach side of the yard, at about one-third its length from the tack or heel, which, when under sail, is confined down between the two canoes, by meansof two strong ropes, one to and passing through a hole at the head of eachcanoe; for it must be observed, that all the sailing vessels of this sortare double. The tack being thus fixed, it is plain that, in changing tacks, the vessels must be put about; the sail and boom on the one tack will beclear of the mast, and on the other it will lie against it, just as a wholemizzen. However, I am not sure if they do not sometimes unlace that part ofthe sail from the yard which is between the tack and mast-head, and soshift both sail and boom leeward of the mast. The drawings which Mr Hodgesmade of these vessels seem to favour this supposition. The outriggers andropes used for shrowds, &c. Are all stout and strong. Indeed, the sail, yard, and boom, are all together of such an enormous weight, that strengthis required. 

The summit of Amattafoa was hid in the clouds the whole day, so that wewere not able to determine with certainty whether there was a volcano orno; but every thing we could see concurred to make us believe there was. This island is about five leagues in circuit. Oghao is not so much; butmore round and peaked. They lie in the direction of N. N. W. 1/2 W. FromAnamocka, eleven or twelve leagues distant; they are both inhabited, butneither of them seemed fertile. 

We were hardly through the passage before we got a fresh breeze at south. That moment all the natives made haste to be gone, and we steered to thewest; all sails set. I had some thoughts of touching at Amsterdam, as itlay not much out of the way; but as the wind was now, we could not fetchit; and this was the occasion of my laying my design aside altogether. 

Let us now return to Anamocka, as it is called by the natives. It issituated in the latitude of 20° 15' S. ; longitude 174° 31' W. , and wasfirst discovered by Tasman, and by him named Rotterdam. It is of atriangular form, each side whereof is about three and a half or four miles. A salt-water lake in the middle of it occupies not a little of its surface, and in a manner cuts off the S. E. Angle. Round the island, that is, fromthe N. W. To the S. , round by the N. And E. , lie scattered a number of smallisles, sand-banks, and breakers. We could see no end to their extent to theN. ; and it is not impossible that they reach as far S. As Amsterdam orTongatabu. These, together with Middleburg or Eaoowee, and Pylstart, make agroup, containing about three degrees of latitude and two of longitude, which I have named the Friendly Isles or Archipelago, as a firm allianceand friendship seems to subsist among their inhabitants, and theircourteous behaviour to strangers entitles them to that appellation; underwhich we might, perhaps, extend their group much farther, even down toBoscawen and Keppell's Isles discovered by Captain Wallis, and lying nearlyunder the same meridian, and in the latitude of 15° 53'; for, from thelittle account I have had of the people of these two isles they seem tohave the same sort of friendly disposition we observed in our Archipelago. 

The inhabitants, productions, &c. Of Rotterdam, and the neighbouring isles, are the same as at Amsterdam. Hogs and fowls are, indeed, much scarcer; ofthe former having got but six, and not many of the latter. Yams andshaddocks were what we got the most of; other fruits were not so plenty. Not half of the isle is laid out in inclosed plantations as at Amsterdam;but the parts which are not inclosed, are not less fertile or uncultivated. There is, however, far more waste land on this isle, in proportion to itssize, than upon the other; and the people seem to be much poorer; that is, in cloth, matting, ornaments, &c. Which constitute a great part of theriches of the South-Sea islanders. 

The people of this isle seem to be more affected with the leprosy, or somescrophulous disorder, than any I have seen elsewhere. It breaks out in theface more than any other part of the body. I have seen several whose faceswere ruined by it, and their noses quite gone. In one of my excursions, happening to peep into a house where one or more of them were, one man onlyappeared at the door, or hole, by which I must have entered, and which hebegan to stop up, by drawing several parts of a cord across it. But theintolerable stench which came from his putrid face was alone sufficient tokeep me out, had the entrance been ever so wide. His nose was quite gone, and his whole face in one continued ulcer; so that the very sight of himwas shocking. As our people had not all got clear of a certain disease theyhad contracted at the Society Isles, I took all possible care to preventits being communicated to the natives here; and I have reason to believe myendeavours succeeded. 

Having mentioned a house, it may not be amiss to observe, that some herediffer from those I saw at the other isles: being inclosed or walled onevery side, with reeds neatly put together, but not close. The entrance isby a square hole, about two feet and a half each way. The form of thesehouses is an oblong square; the floor or foundation every way shorter thanthe eve, which is about four feet from the ground. By this construction, the rain that falls on the roof, is carried off from the wall, whichotherwise would decay and rot. 

We did not distinguish any king or leading chief, or any person who tookupon him the appearance of supreme authority. The man and woman beforementioned, whom I believed to be man and wife, interested themselves onseveral occasions in our affairs; but it was easy to see they had no greatauthority. Amongst other things which I gave them as a reward for theirservice, was a young dog and bitch, animals which they have not, but arevery fond of, and know very well by name. They have some of the same sortof earthen pots we saw at Amsterdam; and I am of opinion they are of theirown manufacture, or that of some neighbouring isle. 

The road, as I have already mentioned, is on the north side of the isle, just to the southward of the southernmost cove; for there are two on thisside. The bank is of some extent, and the bottom free from rocks, withtwenty-five and twenty fathoms water, one or two miles from the shore. 

Fire-wood is very convenient to be got at, and easy to be shipped off; butthe water is so brackish that it is not worth the trouble of carrying it onboard; unless one is in great distress for want of that article, and canget no better. There is, however, better, not only on this isle, but onothers in the neighbourhood; for the people brought us some in cocoa-nutshells which was as good as need be; but probably the springs are tootrifling to water a ship. 

I have already observed, that the S. W. Side of the island is covered by areef or reefs of rocks, and small isles. If there be a sufficient depth ofwater between them and the island, as there appeared to be, and a goodbottom, this would be a much securer place for a ship to anchor in, thanthat where we had our station. [2]

 [1] See Lord Anson's Voyages. 

 [2] Mr G. F. Has given a few particulars respecting the subjects of this and the preceding sections, in addition to Captain Cook's account, but they are not important enough to warrant quotation. --E. 

SECTION III. 

_The Passage from the Friendly Isles to the New Hebrides, with an Accountof the Discovery of Turtle Island, and a Variety of Incidents whichhappened, both before and after the Ship arrived in Port Sandwich, in theIsland of Mallicollo. A Description of the Port, the adjacent Country, itsInhabitants, and many other Particulars. _

On the first of July, at sun-rise, Amattafoa was still in sight, bearingN. E. , distant twenty leagues. Continuing our course to the west, we, thenext day at noon, discovered land bearing N. W. By W. , for which we steered;and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a small island. At four o'clockit bore from N. W. Half W. To N. W. By N. , and, at the same time, breakerswere seen from the masthead, extending from W. To S. W. The day being toofar spent to make farther discoveries, we soon after shortened sail, hauledthe wind, and spent the night, making short boards, which, at day-break, wefound had been so advantageous that we were farther from the island than weexpected, and it was eleven o'clock before we reached the N. W. Or lee-side, where anchorage and landing seemed practicable. In order to obtain aknowledge of the former, I sent the master with a boat to sound, and, inthe mean time, we stood on and off with the ship. At this time four or fivepeople were seen on the reef, which lies round the isle, and about threetimes that number on the shore. As the boat advanced, those on the reefretired and joined the others; and when the boat landed they all fled tothe woods. It was not long before the boat returned, when the masterinformed me that there were no soundings without the reef, over which, inone place only, he found a boat channel of six feet water. Entering by it, he rowed in for the shore, thinking to speak with the people, not more thantwenty in number, who were armed with clubs and spears; but the moment heset his foot on shore, they retired to the woods. He left on the rocks somemedals, nails, and a knife, which they no doubt found, as some were seennear the place afterwards. This island is not quite a league in length, inthe direction of N. E. And S. W. , and not half that in breadth. It is coveredwith wood, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks, which in some placesextend two miles from the shore. It seems to be too small to contain manyinhabitants; and probably the few whom we saw, may have come from some islein the neighbourhood to fish for turtle; as many were seen near this reef, and occasioned that name to be given to the island, which is situated inlatitude 19° 48' south, longitude 178° 21' west. [1]

Seeing breakers to the S. S. W. , which I was desirous of knowing the extentof before night, I left Turtle Isle, and stood for them. At two o'clock wefound they were occasioned by a coral bank, of about four or five leaguesin circuit. By the bearing we had taken, we knew these to be the samebreakers we had seen the preceding evening. Hardly any part of this bank orreef is above water at the reflux of the waves. The heads of some of therocks are to be seen near the edge of the reef, where it is the shoalest;for in the middle is deep water. In short, this bank wants only a fewlittle islets to make it exactly like one of the half-drowned isles sooften mentioned. It lies S. W. From Turtle Island, about five or six miles, and the channel between it and the reef of that isle is three miles over. Seeing no more shoals or islands, and thinking there might be turtle onthis bank, two boats were properly equipped and sent thither; but returnedwithout having seen one. 

The boats were now hoisted in, and we made sail to the west, with a briskgale at east, which continued till the 9th, when we had for a few hours, abreeze at N. W. , attended with squalls of rain. This was succeeded by asteady fresh gale at S. E. , with which we steered N. W. , being at this timein the latitude of 20° 20' S. Longitude 176° 8' E. 

On the 15th at noon, being in the latitude of 15° 9' south, longitude 171°16' east, I steered west. The next day the weather was foggy, and the windblew in heavy squalls, attended with rain, which in this ocean, within thetropics, generally indicates the vicinity of some high land. This wasverified at three in the afternoon, when high land was seen bearing S. W. Upon this we took in the small sails, reefed the top-sails, and hauling upfor it, at half-past five we could see it extend from S. S. W. To N. N. W. HalfW. Soon after we tacked and spent the night, which was very stormy, inplying. Our boards were disadvantageous; for, in the morning, we found wehad lost ground. This, indeed, was no wonder, for having an old suit ofsails bent, the most of them were split to pieces; particularly a fore-top-sail, which was rendered quite useless. We got others to the yards, andcontinued to ply, being desirous of getting round the south ends of thelands, or at least so far to the south as to be able to judge of theirextent in that direction. For no one doubted that this was the Australiadel Espiritu Santo of Quiros, which M. De Bougainville calls the GreatCyclades, and that the coast we were now upon was the east side of AuroraIsland, whose longitude is 168° 30' E. 

The gale kept increasing till we were reduced to our low sails; so that, onthe 18th, at seven in the morning, I gave over plying, set the top-sailsdouble-reefed, bore up for, and hauled round the north end of AuroraIsland, and then stretched over for the Isle of Lepers, under close-reefedtopsails and courses, with a very hard gale at N. E. ; but we had now theadvantage of a smooth sea, having the Isle of Aurora to windward. At noonthe north end of it bore N. E. 1/2 N. , distant four leagues; our latitude, found by double altitudes, and reduced to this time, was 15° 1' 30" south, longitude 168° 14' east. At two o'clock p. M. We drew near the middle of theIsle of Lepers, and tacked about two miles from land; in which situation wehad no soundings with a line of seventy fathoms. We now saw people on theshore, and many beautiful cascades of water pouring down the neighbouringhills. The next time we stood for this isle, we came to within half a mileof it, where we found thirty fathoms a sandy bottom; but a mile off wefound no soundings at seventy fathoms. Here two canoes came off to us, inone of which were three men, and in the other but one. Though we made allthe signs of friendship, we could not bring them nearer than a stone'sthrow; and they made but a short stay before they retired ashore, where wesaw a great number of people assembled in parties, and armed with bows andarrows. They were of a very dark colour; and, excepting some ornaments attheir breast and arms, seemed to be entirely naked. 

As I intended to get to the south, in order to explore the land which mightlie there, we continued to ply between the Isle of Lepers and Aurora; andon the 19th, at noon, the south end of the last-mentioned isle bore south24° east, and the north end north, distant twenty miles. Latitude observed15° 11'. The wind continued to blow strong at S. E. , so that what we got byplying in the day, we lost in the night. On the 20th, at sun-rise, we foundourselves off the south end of Aurora, on the N. W. Side of which, the coastforms a small bay. In this we made some trips to try for anchorage; butfound no less than eighty fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand, athalf a mile from shore. Nevertheless, I am of opinion that, nearer, thereis much less depth, and secure riding; and in the neighbourhood is plentyof fresh water and wood for fuel. The whole isle, from the sea-shore to thesummits of the hills, seemed to be covered with the latter; and everyvalley produced a fine stream of the former. [2] We saw people on the shore, and some canoes on the coast, but none came off to us. Leaving the bay justmentioned, we stretched across the channel which divides Aurora fromWhitsuntide Island. At noon we were abreast the north end of this latter, which bore E. N. E. , and observed in 15° 28' 1/2. The isle of Aurora borefrom N. To N. E. 1/2 east, and the Isle of Lepers from N. By W. 1/2 W. Towest. Whitsuntide Isle appeared joined to the land to the S. And S. W. Ofit; but in stretching to S. W. We discovered the separation. This was aboutfour o'clock p. M. , and then we tacked and stretched in for the island tillnear sun-set, when the wind veering more to the east, made it necessary toresume our course to the south. We saw people on the shore, smokes in manyparts of the island, and several places which seemed to be cultivated. About midnight, drawing near the south land, we tacked and stretched to thenorth, in order to spend the remainder of the night. 

At day-break on the 21st, we found ourselves before the channel thatdivides Whitsuntide Island from the south land, which is about two leaguesover. At this time, the land to the southward extended from S. By E. Roundto the west, farther than the eye could reach, and on the part nearest tous, which is of considerable height, we observed two very large columns ofsmoke, which, I judged, ascended from volcanoes. We now stood S. S. W. , witha fine breeze at S. E. ; and, at ten o'clock, discovered this part of theland to be an island, which is called by the natives Ambrym. Soon after anelevated land appeared open off the south end of Ambrym; and after that, another still higher, on which is a high peaked hill. We judged these landsto belong to two separate islands. The first came in sight at S. E. ; thesecond at E. By S. , and they appeared to be ten leagues distant. Holding onour course for the land ahead, at noon it was five miles distant from us, extending from S. S. E. To N. W. By W. , and appeared to be continued. Theislands to the east bore from N. E. By E. To S. E. By E. , latitude observed16° 17' south. As we drew nearer the shore we discovered a creek, which hadthe appearance of being a good harbour, formed by a low point or peninsula, projecting out to the north. On this a number of people were assembled, whoseemed to invite us ashore; probably with no good intent, as the most ofthem were armed with bows and arrows. In order to gain room and time tohoist out and arm our boats, to reconnoitre this place, we tacked and madea trip off, which occasioned the discovery of another port about a leaguemore to the south. Having sent two armed boats to sound and look foranchorage, on their making the signal for the latter, we sailed in S. S. W. , and anchored in eleven fathoms water, not two cables' length from the S. E. Shore, and a mile within the entrance. 

We had no sooner anchored than several of the natives came off in canoes. They were very cautious at first; but, at last, trusted themselvesalongside, and exchanged, for pieces of cloth, arrows; some of which werepointed with bone, and dipped in some green gummy substance, which wenaturally supposed was poisonous. Two men having ventured on board, after ashort stay, I sent them away with presents. Others, probably induced bythis, came off by moon-light; but I gave orders to permit none to comealongside, by which means we got clear of them for the night. 

Next morning early, a good many came round us, some in canoes, and othersswimming. I soon prevailed on one to come on board, which be no sooner did, than he was followed by more than I desired; so that not only our deck, butrigging, was presently filled with them. I took four into the cabin, andgave them various articles, which they shewed to those in the canoes, andseemed much pleased with their reception. While I was thus making friendswith those in the cabin, an accident happened that threw all intoconfusion, but in the end, I believe, proved advantageous to us. A fellowin a canoe having been refused admittance into one of our boats that layalongside, bent his bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boat-keeper. Someof his countrymen prevented his doing it that instant, and gave time toacquaint me with it. I ran instantly on deck, and saw another manstruggling with him; one of those who had been in the cabin, and had leapedout of the window for this purpose. The other seemed resolved, shook himoff, and directed his bow again to the boat-keeper; but, on my calling tohim, pointed it at me. Having a musquet in my hand loaded with small shot, I gave him the contents. This staggered him for a moment, but did notprevent him from holding his bow still in the attitude of shooting. Anotherdischarge of the same nature made him drop it, and the others, who were inthe canoe, to paddle off with all speed. At this time, some began to shootarrows on the other side. A musquet discharged in the air had no effect;but a four-pound shot over their heads sent them off in the utmostconfusion. Many quitted their canoes and swam on shore; those in the greatcabin leaped out of the windows; and those who were on the deck, and ondifferent parts of the rigging, all leaped overboard. After this we took nofarther notice of them, but suffered them to come off and pick up theircanoes; and some of them even ventured alongside of the ship. Immediatelyafter the great gun was fired, we heard the beating of drums on shore;which was, probably, the signal for the country to assemble in arms. We nowgot every thing in readiness to land, to cut some wood, which we were inwant of, and to try to get some refreshments, nothing of this kind havingbeen seen in any of the canoes. 

About nine o'clock, we put off in two boats, and landed in the face of fouror five hundred people, who were assembled on the shore. Though they wereall armed with bows and arrows, clubs and spears, they made not the leastopposition. On the contrary, seeing me advance alone, with nothing but agreen branch in my hand, one of them, who seemed to be a chief, giving hisbow and arrows to another, met me in the water, bearing also a greenbranch, which having exchanged for the one I held, he then took me by thehand, and led me up to the crowd. I immediately distributed presents tothem, and, in the mean time, the marines were drawn up upon the beach. Ithen made signs (for we understood not a word of their language) that wewanted wood; and they made signs to us to cut down the trees. By this time, a small pig being brought down and presented to me, I gave the bearer apiece of cloth, with which he seemed well pleased. This made us hope thatwe should soon have some more; but we were mistaken. The pig was notbrought to be exchanged for what we had, but on some other account, probably as a peace-offering. For, all we could say or do, did not prevailon them to bring down, after this, above half a dozen cocoa-nuts, and asmall quantity of fresh water. They set no value on nails, or any sort ofiron tools; nor indeed on any thing we had. They would, now and then, exchange an arrow for a piece of cloth; but very seldom would part with abow. They were unwilling we should go off the beach, and very desirous weshould return on board. At length, about noon, after sending what wood wehad cut on board, we embarked ourselves; and they all retired, some one wayand some another. Before we had dined, the afternoon was too far spent todo any thing on shore; and all hands were employed, setting up the rigging, and repairing some defects in it. But seeing a man bring along the strand abuoy, which they had taken in the night from the kedge-anchor, I went onshore for it, accompanied by some of the gentlemen. The moment we landed, it was put into the boat, by a man who walked off again without speakingone word. It ought to be observed, that this was the only thing they took, or even attempted to take from us, by any means whatever. Being landed nearone of their plantations and houses, which were just within the skirts ofthe wood, I prevailed on the man to conduct me to them; but, though theysuffered Mr Forster to go with me, they were unwilling any more shouldfollow. These houses were something like those of the other isles; ratherlow, and covered with palm thatch. Some were enclosed, or walled round withboards; and the entrance to those was by a square hole at one end, which atthis time was shut up, and they were unwilling to open it for us to lookin. There were here about six houses, and some small plantations of roots, &c. , fenced round with reeds as at the Friendly Isles. There were, likewise, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and plaintain trees; but very littlefruit on any of them. A good many fine yams were piled up upon sticks, or akind of raised platform; and about twenty pigs, and a few fowls, wererunning about loose. After making these observations, having embarked, weproceeded to the S. E. Point of the harbour, where we again landed andwalked along the bench till we could see the islands to the S. E. Alreadymentioned. The names of these we now obtained, as well as the name of thaton which we were. This they called Mallicollo;[3] the island that firstappeared over the south end of Ambrym is called Apee; and the other withthe hill upon it Paoom. We found on the beach a fruit like an orange, called by them Abbimora; but whether it be fit for eating, I cannot say, asthis was decayed. 

Proceeding next to the other side of the harbour, we there landed, near afew houses, at the invitation of some people who came down to the shore;but we had not been there five minutes before they wanted us to be gone. Wecomplied, and proceeded up the harbour in order to sound it, and look forfresh water, of which, as yet, we had seen none, but the very little thatthe natives brought, which we knew not where they got. Nor was our searchnow attended with success; but this is no proof that there is not any. Theday was too far spent to examine the place well enough to determine thispoint. Night having brought us on board, I was informed that no soul hadbeen off to the ship; so soon was the curiosity of these people satisfied. As we were coming on board, we heard the sound of a drum, and, I think, ofsome other instruments, and saw people dancing; but us soon as they heardthe noise of the oars, or saw us, all was silent. 

Being unwilling to lose the benefit of the moon-light nights, which nowhappened, at seven a. M. On the 23d, we weighed; and, with a light air ofwind, and the assistance of our boats, proceeded out of the harbour, thesouth end of which, at noon, bore W. S. W. , distant about two miles. 

When the natives saw us under sail, they came off in canoes, makingexchanges with more confidence than before, and giving such extraordinaryproofs of their honesty as surprised us. As the ship, at first, had freshway through the water, several of them dropped astern after they hadreceived our goods, and before they had time to deliver theirs in return. Instead of taking advantage of this, as our friends at the Society Isleswould have done, they used their utmost efforts to get up with us, and todeliver what they had already been paid for. One man, in particular, followed us a considerable time, and did not reach us till it was calm, andthe thing was forgotten. As soon as he came alongside he held up the thingwhich several were ready to buy; but he refused to part with it, till hesaw the person to whom he had before sold it, and to him he gave it. Theperson, not knowing him again, offered him something in return, which herefused, and shewed him what he had given him before. Pieces of cloth, andmarble paper, were in most esteem with them; but edge-tools, nails, andbeads, they seemed to disregard. The greatest number of canoes we hadalongside at once did not exceed eight, and not more than four or fivepeople in each, who would frequently retire to the shore all on a sudden, before they had disposed of half their things, and then others would comeoff. 

At the time we came out of the harbour, it was about low water, and greatnumbers of people were then on the shoals or reefs which lie along theshore, looking, as we supposed. , for shell and other fish. Thus our beingon their coast, and in one of their ports, did not hinder them fromfollowing the necessary employments. By this time they might be satisfiedwe meant them no harm; so that, had we made a longer stay, we might soonhave been upon good terms with this ape-like nation. For, in general, theyare the most ugly, ill-proportioned people I ever saw, and in every respectdifferent from any we had met with in this sea. They are a very dark-coloured and rather diminutive race; with long heads, flat faces, andmonkey countenances. Their hair mostly black or brown, is short and curly;but not quite so soft and woolly as that of a negroe. Their beards are verystrong, crisp, and bushy, and generally black and short. But what most addsto their deformity, is a belt or cord which they wear round the waist, andtie so tight over the belly, that the shape of their bodies is not unlikethat of an overgrown pismire. The men go quite naked, except a piece ofcloth or leaf used as a wrapper. [4]

We saw but few women, and they were not less ugly than the men; theirheads, faces, and shoulders, are painted red; they wear a kind ofpetticoat; and some of them had something over their shoulders like a bag, in which they carry their children. None of them came off to the ship, andthey generally kept at a distance when we were on shore. Their ornamentsare ear-rings, made of tortoise-shell and bracelets. A curious one of thelatter, four or five inches broad, wrought with thread or cord, and studdedwith shells, is worn by them just above the elbow. Round the right wristthey wear hogs' tusks, bent circular, and rings made of shells; and roundtheir left, a round piece of wood, which we judged was to ward off the bow-string. The bridge of the nose is pierced, in which they wear a piece ofwhite stone, about an inch and a half long. As signs of friendship theypresent a green branch, and sprinkle water with the hand over the head. 

Their weapons are clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. The two former aremade of hard or iron-wood. Their bows are about four feet long, made of astick split down the middle, and are not circular. The arrows, which are asort of reeds, are sometimes armed with a long and sharp point, made of thehard wood, and sometimes with a very hard point made of bone; and thesepoints are all covered with a substance which we took for poison. Indeedthe people themselves confirmed our suspicions, by making signs to us notto touch the point, and giving us to understand that if we were prickled bythem we should die. They are very careful of them themselves, and keepthem, always wrapped up in a quiver. Some of these arrows are formed withtwo or three points, each with small prickles on the edges, to prevent thearrow being drawn out of the wound. 

The people of Mallicollo seemed to be a quite different nation from any wehad yet met with, and speak a different language. Of about eighty words, which Mr Forster collected, hardly one bears any affinity to the languagespoken at any other island or place I had ever been at. The letter R isused in many of their words; and frequently two or three being joinedtogether, such words we found difficult to pronounce. I observed that theycould pronounce most of our words with great ease. They express theiradmiration by hissing like a goose. 

To judge of the country by the little water we saw of it, it must befertile; but I believe their fruits are not so good as those of the Societyor Friendly Isles. Their cocoa-nut trees, I am certain, are not; and theirbread-fruit and plantains did not seem much better. But their yams appearedto be very good. We saw no other animals than those I have alreadymentioned. They have not so much as a name for a dog, and consequently havenone, for which reason we left them a dog and a bitch; and there is nodoubt they will be taken care of, as they were very fond of them. [5]

After we had got to sea, we tried what effect one of the poisoned arrowswould have on a dog. Indeed we had tried it in the harbour the very firstnight, but we thought the operation was too slight, as it had no effect. The surgeon now made a deep incision in the dog's thigh, into which he laida large portion of the poison, just as it was scraped from the arrows, andthen bound up the wound with a bandage. For several days after we thoughtthe dog was not so well as it had been before, but whether this was reallyso, or only suggested by imagination, I know not. He was afterwards as ifnothing had been done to him, and lived to be brought home to England. However, I have no doubt of this stuff being of a poisonous quality, as itcould answer no other purpose. The people seemed not unacquainted with thenature of poison, for when they brought us water on shore, they firsttasted it, and then gave us to understand we might with safety drink it. 

This harbour, which is situated on the N. E. Side of Mallicollo, not farfrom the S. E. End, in latitude 16° 25' 20" S. , longitude 167° 57' 23" E. , Inamed Port Sandwich. It lies in S. W. By S. About one league, and is one-third of a league broad. A reef of rocks extends out a little way from eachpoint, but the channel is of a good breadth, and hath in it from forty totwenty-four fathoms water. In the port, the depth of water is from twentyto four fathoms; and it is so sheltered that no winds can disturb a ship atanchor there. Another great advantage is, you can lie so near the shore, asto cover your people, who may be at work upon it. 

 [1] Some large single rocks of coral, we are told by Mr G. F. , near fifteen feet above the surface of the water, narrow at the base, and spreading out at the top, were observed, on standing along the reef of this island. That gentleman, however, does not venture to assign any cause for so curious a fact--E. 

 [2] "On approaching the Isle of Aurora, we observed a fine beach, and the most luxuriant vegetation that can be conceived. The whole country was woody; numberless climbers ran up the highest trees, and, forming garlands and festoons between them, embellished the scene. A neat plantation fenced with reeds, stood on the slope of the bill; and a beautiful cascade poured down through the adjacent forest. "--G. F. 

 [3] Or Mallicolla. Some of our people pronounced it Manicolo or Manicola, and thus it is also writ in Quiros' Memorial, as printed by Dalrymple, vol. Ii. P. 146. 

 [4] The particular manner of applying the wrapper may be seen in Wafer's voyage, who mentions this singular custom as existing, though with some little variation, amongst the Indians of the Isthmus of Darien. See Wafer's Voyage, p. 140. 

 Mr G. F. Tells us that these people increased their disagreeable appearance, by painting their faces and breasts with a black colour. A few of them, he says, had a small cap on the head, made of matted work. This gentleman speaks highly of the extensive faculties and quick apprehension of these people, low enough as they must be ranked in the scale of personal beauty; he admits, however, that their skill in the arts is inconsiderable, and their civilization very imperfect. --E. 

 [5] "The productions of Mallicollo are less remarkable and striking at first sight than the race of its inhabitants. To judge of their numbers from the crowd we saw at Port Sandwich, I should conclude, that they are far from inconsiderable; but considering the great size of the island, I cannot suppose it to be very populous. Fifty thousand is, I think, the greatest number we can admit, and these are not confined to the skirts of the hills, as at Otaheite, but dispersed over the whole extent of more than six hundred square miles. We ought to figure their country to ourselves as one extensive forest: They have only begun to clear and plant a few insulated spots, which are lost in it, like small islands in the vast Pacific Ocean. Perhaps if we could ever penetrate through the darkness which involves the history of this nation, we might find that they have arrived in the South Sea much later than the natives of the Friendly and Society Isles. So much at least is certain, that they appear to be of a race totally distinct from these. Their form, their language, and their manners, strongly and completely mark the difference. The natives on some parts of New Guinea and Papua, seem to correspond in many particulars with what we have observed among the Mallicollese. The black colour and woolly hair in particular are characteristics common to both nations. The slender form of the Mallicolese is a character, as far as I know, peculiar to them and the New Zealanders; but that nation hath nothing in common with them in all other respects. The features of these people, though remarkably irregular and ugly, yet are full of great sprightliness, and express a quick comprehension. Their lips, and the lower part of their face, are entirely different from those of African negroes; but the upper part, especially the nose, is of very similar conformation, and the substance of the hair is the same. The climate of Mallicollo, and the adjacent islands, is very warm, but perhaps not at all times so temperate as at Otaheite, because the extent of land is vastly greater. However, during our short stay, we experienced no unusual degree of heat, the thermometer being at 76° and 78°, which is very moderate in the torrid zone. "-- G. F. 

SECTION IV. 

_An Account of the Discovery of several Islands, and an Interview andSkirmish with the Inhabitants upon one of them. The Arrival of the Ship atTanna, and the Reception we met with there. _

Soon after we got to sea, we had a breeze at E. S. E. With which we stoodover for Ambrym till three o'clock in the afternoon, when the wind veeringto the E. N. E. We tacked and stretched to the S. E. And weathered the S. E. End of Mallicolo, off which we discovered three or four small islands, thatbefore appeared to be connected. At sun-set the point bore S. 77° W. , distant three leagues, from which the coast seemed to trend away west. Atthis time, the isle of Ambrym extended from N. 3° E. To N. 65° E. The isleof Paoon from N. 76° E. To S. 88° E. ; and the isle of Apee from S. 83° E. To S. 43° E. We stood for this last isle, which we reached by midnight, andthen brought-to till day-break on the 24th, when we made sail to the S. E. , with a view of plying up to the eastward on the south side of Apee. At sun-rise we discovered several more islands, extending from the S. E. Point ofApee to the south as far as S. E. By S. The nearest to us we reached by teno'clock, and not being able to weather it, we tacked a mile from its shorein fourteen fathoms water. This island is about four leagues in circuit, isremarkable by having three high peaked hills upon it, by which it hasobtained that name. In the p. M. The wind veering more to the north, weresumed our course to the east; and having weathered Threehills, stood forthe group of small isles which lie off the S. E. Point of Apee. These Icalled Shepherd's Isles, in honour of my worthy friend Dr Shepherd, Plumianprofessor of astronomy at Cambridge. Having a fine breeze, I had thoughtsof going through between them; but the channels being narrow, and seeingbroken water in the one we were steering for, I gave up the design, andbore up, in order to go without, or to the south of them. Before this couldbe accomplished, it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of thecurrent, close to the isles, where we could find no soundings with a lineof an hundred and eighty fathoms. We had now land or islands in everydirection, and were not able to count the number which lay round us. Themountain on Paoon was seen over the east end of Apee, bearing N. N. W. Ateight o'clock. A breeze at S. E. Relieved us from the anxiety the calm hadoccasioned; and we spent the night in making short boards. 

The night before we came out of Port Sandwich, two reddish fish, about thesize of large bream, and not unlike them, were caught with hook and line. On these fish most of the officers, and some of the petty officers, dinedthe next day. The night following, every one who had eaten of them wasseized with violent pains in the head and bones, attended with a scorchingheat all over the skin, and numbness in the joints. There remained no doubtthat this was occasioned by the fish being of a poisonous nature, andhaving communicated its bad effects to all who partook of them, even to thehogs and dogs. One of the former died about sixteen hours after; it was notlong before one of the latter shared the same fate; and it was a week orten days before all the gentlemen recovered. These must have been the samesort of fish mentioned by Quiros, [1] under the name of pargos, whichpoisoned the crews of his ships, so that it was some time before theyrecovered; and we should, doubtless, have been in the same situation, hadmore of them been eaten. 

At day break on the 25th, we made a short stretch to the east of Shepherd'sIsles till after sun-rise, when seeing no more land in that direction, wetacked and stood for the island we had seen in the south, having a gentlebreeze at S. E. We passed to the east of Threehills, and likewise of a lowisle, which lies on the S. E. Side of it, between a remarkable peaked rockwhich obtained the name of Monument, and a small island named Twohills, onaccount of two peaked hills upon it, disjoined by a low and narrow isthmus. The channel between this island and the Monument is near a mile broad, andtwenty-four fathoms deep. Except this rock, which is only accessible tobirds, we did not find an island on which people were not seen. At noon, weobserved, in latitude 17° 18' 30"; longitude, made from Port Sandwich, 45'E. In this situation, the Monument bore N. 16° E. Distant two miles;Twohills bore N. 25° W. Distant two miles, and in a line with the S. W. Partof Threehills; and the islands to the south extended from S. 16° 30' E. ToS. 42° W. 

Continuing our course to the south, at five p. M. We drew near the southernlands, which we found to consist of one large island, whose southern andwestern extremities extended beyond our sight, and three or four smallerones lying off its north side. The two northernmost are much the largest, have a good height, and lie in the direction of E. By S. And W. By N. Fromeach other, distant two leagues; I named the one Montagu and the otherHinchinbrook, and the large island Sandwich, in honour of my noble patronthe Earl of Sandwich. Seeing broken water ahead, between Montagu andHinchinbrook isles, we tacked; and soon after it fell calm. The calmcontinued till seven o'-clock the next morning, when it was succeeded by abreeze from the westward. During the calm, having been carried by thecurrents and a S. E. Swell, four leagues to the W. N. W. , we passedHinchinbrook Isle, saw the western extremity of Sandwich Island, bearingS. S. W. , about five leagues distant, and at the same time discovered a smallisland to the west of this direction. After getting the westerly breeze, Isteered S. E. In order to pass between Montagu Isle and the north end ofSandwich Island. At noon we were in the middle of the channel, and observedin latitude 17° 31' S. The distance from one island to the other is aboutfour or five miles; but the channel is not much above half that breadth, being contracted by breakers. We had no soundings in it with a line offorty fathoms. 

As we passed Montagu Isle several people came down to the sea-side, and, bysigns, seemed to invite us ashore. Some were also seen on Sandwich Island, which exhibited a most delightful prospect, being spotted with woods andlawns, agreeably diversified over the whole surface. It hath a gentle slopefrom the hills, which are of a moderate height, down to the sea coast. Thisis low, and guarded by a chain of breakers, so that there is no approachingit at this part. But more to the west, beyond Hinchinbrook Island, thereseemed to run in a bay sheltered from the reigning winds. The examining itnot being so much an object, with me as the getting to the south, in orderto find the southern extremity of the Archipelago, with this view I steeredS. S. E. , being the direction of the coast of Sandwich Island. We had butjust got through the passage, before the west wind left us to variablelight airs and calms; so that we were apprehensive of being carried backagain by the currents, or rather of being obliged to return, in order toavoid being driven on the shoals, as there was no anchorage, a line of anhundred and sixty fathoms not reaching to the bottom. At length a breezespringing up at S. W. We stood to S. E. , and at sun-set the Monument bore N. 14° 30' W. , and Montagu Island N. 28° W. Distant three leagues. We judgedwe saw the S. E. Extremity of Sandwich Island, bearing about S. By E. 

We continued to stand S. E. Till four a. M. On the 27th, when we tacked tothe west. At sun-rise, having discovered a new land bearing south, andmaking in three hills, this occasioned us to tack and stand towards it. Atthis time Montagu Isle bore N. 52° W. , distant thirteen leagues; at noon itwas nearly in the same direction, and the new land extended from S. 1/2 E. To S. By W. , and the three hills seemed to be connected. Our latitude byobservation, was 18° 1' S. , and the longitude, made from Port Sandwich, 1°23' E. We continued to stand to the S. E. , with a gentle breeze at S. W. AndS. S. W. Till the 28th at sun-rise, when, the wind veering to the south, wetacked and stood to the west. The three hills mentioned above, we now saw, belonging to one island, which extended from S. 35° to 71° W. Distant aboutten or twelve leagues. [2]

Retarded by contrary winds, calms, and the currents, that set to N. W. , wewere three days in gaining this space; in which time we discovered anelevated land to the south of this; It first appeared in detached hummocks, but we judged it to be connected. At length, on the 1st of August, aboutten a. M. We got a fine breeze at E. S. E. , which soon after veered to N. E. , and we steered for the N. W. Side of the island. Reaching it about two p. M. , we ranged the west coast at one mile from shore, on which the inhabitantsappeared in several parts, and by signs invited us to land. We continued tosound without finding bottom, till we came before a small bay, or bendingof the coast, where, near a mile from shore, we found thirty and twenty-twofathoms water, a sandy bottom. I had thoughts of anchoring here, but thewind almost instantly veered to N. W. ; which being nearly on shore, I laidthis design aside. Besides, I was unwilling to lose the opportunity thatnow offered of getting to the south-east, in order first to explore thelands which lay there. I therefore continued to range the coast to thesouth, at about the same distance from shore; but we soon got out ofsoundings. About a league to the south of this bay, which hath about twomiles extent, is another more extensive. Towards the evening, the breezebegan to abate, so that it was sun-set before we got the length of it. Iintended not to stop here, and to stand to the south under an easy sail allnight; but at eight o'clock, as we were steering S. S. E. We saw a lightahead. Not knowing but it might be on some low detached isle, dangerous toapproach while dark, we hauled the wind, and spent the night standing offand on, or rather driving to and fro; for we had but very little wind. 

At sun-rise on the 2d, we saw no more land than the coast we were upon; butfound that the currents had carried us some miles to the north, and weattempted, to little purpose, to regain what we had lost. At noon we wereabout a league from the coast, which extended from S. S. E. To N. E. Latitudeobserved 18° 45' S. In the afternoon, finding the ship to drift not only tothe north, but in shore also, and being yet to the south of the bay wepassed the day before, I had thoughts of getting to an anchor before night, while we had it in our power to make choice of a place. With this view, having hoisted out two boats, one of them was sent ahead to tow the ship;in the other Mr Gilbert went to sound for anchorage. Soon after, the towingboat was sent to assist him. So much time was spent in sounding this bay, that the ship drove past, which made it necessary to call the boats onboard to tow her off from the northern point. But this service wasperformed by a breeze of wind, which, that moment, sprung up at S. W. ; sothat as the boats got on board, we hoisted them in, and then bore up forthe north side of the island, intending once more to try to get round bythe east; Mr Gilbert informed me, that at the south part of the bay, hefound no soundings till close to a steep stone beach, where he landed totaste a stream of water he saw there, which proved to be salt. Some peoplewere seen there, but they kept at a distance. Farther down the coast, thatis to the north, he found twenty, twenty-four, and thirty fathoms, three-fourths of a mile, or a mile, from shore, the bottom a fine dark sand. 

On the 3d, at sun-rise, we found ourselves abreast a lofty promontory onthe S. E. Side of the island, and about three leagues from it. Having butlittle wind, and that from the south, right in our teeth, and being in wantof fire-wood, I sent Lieutenant Clerke with two boats to a small isletwhich lies off the promontory, to endeavour to get some. In the mean timewe continued to ply up with the ship; but what we gained by our sails, welost by the current. At length towards noon, we got a breeze at E. S. E. , andE. , with which we could lie up for the head; and soon after Mr Clerkereturned, having not been able to land, on account of a high surf on theshore. They met with no people on the isle; but saw a large bat, and somebirds, and caught a water-snake. At six o'clock p. M. We got in with theland, under the N. W. Side of the head, where we anchored in seventeenfathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand, half a mile from shore; thepoint of the head bearing N. 18° E. , distant half a league; the littleislet before-mentioned N. E. By E. 1/2 E. , and the N. W. Point of the bay N. 32° W. Many people appeared on the shore, and some attempted to swim off tous; but having occasion to send the boat ahead to sound, they retired asshe drew near them. This, however, gave us a favourable idea of them. 

On the 4th, at day-break, I went with two boats to examine the coast, tolook for a proper landing-place, wood, and water. At this time, the nativesbegan to assemble on the shore, and by signs invited us to land. I wentfirst to a small beach, which is towards the head, where I found no goodlanding, on account of some rocks which every where lined the coast. I, however, put the boat's bow to the shore, and gave cloth, medals, &c. Tosome people who were there. For this treatment they offered to haul theboats over the breakers to the sandy beach, which I thought a friendlyoffer, but had reason afterwards to alter my opinion. When they found Iwould not do as they desired, they made signs for us to go down into thebay, which we accordingly did, and they ran along shore abreast of us, their number increasing prodigiously. I put in to the shore in two or threeplaces, but, not liking the situation, did not land. By this time, Ibelieve, the natives conceived what I wanted, as they directed me round arocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, I stepped out of the boatwithout wetting a foot, in the face of a vast multitude, with only a greenbranch in my hand, which I had before got from one of them. I took but oneman out of the boat with me, and ordered the other boat to lie-to at alittle distance off. They received me with great courtesy and politeness;and would retire back from the boat on my making the least motion with myhand. A man, whom I took to be a chief, seeing this, made them form asemicircle round the boat's bow, and beat such as attempted to breakthrough this order. This man I loaded with presents, giving likewise toothers, and asked by signs for fresh water, in hopes of seeing where theygot it. The chief immediately sent a man for some, who ran to a house, andpresently returned with a little in a bamboo; so that I gained but littleinformation by this. I next asked, by the same means, for something to eat, and they as readily brought me a yam, and some cocoa-nuts. In short, I wascharmed with their behaviour; and the only thing which could give the leastsuspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, andbows and arrows. For this reason I kept my eye continually upon the chief, and watched his looks as well as his actions. He made many signs to me tohaul the boat up upon the shore, and at last slipped into the crowd, whereI observed him speak to several people, and then return to me, repeatingsigns to haul the boat up, and hesitating a good deal before he wouldreceive some spike-nails, which I then offered him. This made me suspectsomething was intended, and immediately I stepped into the boat, tellingthem by signs that I should soon return. But they were not for parting sosoon, and now attempted by force, what they could not obtain by gentlermeans. The gang-board happened unluckily to be laid out for me to come intothe boat, I say unluckily, for if it had not been out, and if the crew hadbeen a little quicker in getting the boat off, the natives might not havehad time to put their design in execution, nor would the followingdisagreeable scene have happened. As we were putting off the boat, theylaid hold of the gang-board, and unhooked it off the boat's stern. But asthey did not take it away, I thought this had been done by accident, andordered the boat in again to take it up. Then they themselves hooked itover the boat's stern, and attempted to haul her ashore; others, at thesame time, snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On my pointing amusket at them, they in some measure desisted, but returned in an instant, seemingly determined to haul the boat ashore. At the head of this party wasthe chief; the others, who could not come at the boat, stood behind withdarts, stones, and bows and arrows in hand, ready to support them. Signsand threats having no effect, our own safety became the only consideration;and yet I was unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to make thechief alone fall a victim to his own treachery; but my musket at thiscritical moment missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of thearms we held in our hands, they must now have looked upon them as childishweapons, and began to let us see how much better theirs were, by throwingstones and darts, and by shooting arrows. This made it absolutely necessaryfor me to give orders to fire. The first discharge threw them intoconfusion; but a second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach;and after all, they continued to throw stones from behind the trees andbushes, and, every now and then, to pop out and throw a dart. Four lay, toall appearance, dead on the shore; but two of them afterwards crawled intothe bushes. Happy it was for these people, that not half our muskets wouldgo off, otherwise many more must have fallen. We had one man wounded in thecheek with a dart, the point of which was as thick as my finger, and yet itentered above two inches, which shews that it must have come with greatforce, though indeed we were very near them. An arrow struck Mr Gilbert'snaked breast, who was about thirty yards off; but probably it had strucksomething before; for it hardly penetrated the skin. The arrows werepointed with hard wood. 

As soon as we got on board, I ordered the anchor to be weighed, with a viewof anchoring near the landing-place. While this was doing, several peopleappeared on the low rock point, displaying two oars we had lost in thescuffle. I looked on this as a sign of submission, and of their wanting togive us the oars. I was, nevertheless, prevailed on to fire a four-poundshot at them, to let them see the effect of our great guns. The ball fellshort, but frightened them so much, that none were seen afterwards; andthey left the oars standing up against the bushes. 

It was now calm; but the anchor was hardly at the bow before a breezesprung up at north, of which we took the advantage, set our sails, andplyed out of the bay, as it did not seem capable of supplying our wantswith that conveniency I wished to have. Besides, I always had it in mypower to return to this place, in case I should find none more convenientfarther south. 

These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of Mallicollo; andspoke a different language. They are of the middle size, have a good shape, and tolerable features. Their colour is very dark, and they paint theirfaces, some with black, and others with red pigment. Their hair is verycurly and crisp, and somewhat woolly. I saw a few women, and I thought themugly; they wore a kind of petticoat made of palm-leaves, or some plant likeit. But the men, like those of Mallicollo, were in a manner naked; havingonly the belt about the waist, and the piece of cloth, or leaf, used as awrapper. I saw no canoes with these people, nor were any seen in any partof this island. They live in houses covered with thatch, and theirplantations are laid out by a line, and fenced round. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we were clear of the bay, bore up roundthe head, and steered S. S. E. For the south end of the island, having a finebreeze at N. W. On the S. W. Side of the head is a pretty deep bay, whichseemed to run in behind the one on the N. W. Side. Its shores are low, andthe adjacent lands appeared very fertile. It is exposed to the S. E. Winds;for which reason, until it be better known, the N. W. Bay is preferable, because it is sheltered from the reigning winds; and the winds to which itis open, viz. From N. W. By N. To E. By N. , seldom blow strong. Thepromontory, or peninsula, which disjoins these two bays, I named Traitor'sHead, from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants. It is the N. E. Point of the island, situated in the latitude 18° 43' S. Longitude 169°'28' E. , and terminates in a saddle-hill which is of height sufficient tobe seen sixteen or eighteen leagues. As we advanced to S. S. E. , the newisland, we had before discovered, began to appear over the S. E. Point ofthe one near us, bearing S. 1/2 E. , distant ten or twelve leagues. Afterleaving this one, we steered for the east end of the other, being directedby a great light we saw upon it. 

At one o'clock the next morning, drawing near the shore, we tacked andspent the remainder of the night making short boards. At sun-rise wediscovered a high table land (an island) bearing E. By S. , and a small lowisle in the direction of N. N. E. , which we had passed in the night withoutseeing it. Traitor's Head was still in sight, bearing N. 20° W. Distantfifteen leagues, and the island to the south extended from S. 7° W. To S. 87° W. Distant three or four miles. We then found that the light we hadseen in the night was occasioned by a volcano, which we observed to throwup vast quantities of fire and smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at agreat distance. We now made sail for the island; and, presently after, discovered a small inlet which had the appearance of being a good harbour. In order to be better informed, I sent away two armed boats, under thecommand of Lieutenant Cooper, to sound it; and, in the meanwhile, we stoodon and off with the ship, to be ready to follow, or give them anyassistance they might want. On the east point of the entrance, we observeda number of people, and several houses and canoes; and when our boatsentered the harbour, they launched some, and followed them, but came notnear. It was not long before Mr Cooper made the signal for anchorage; andwe stood in with the ship. The wind being at west, and our course S. S. W. , we borrowed close to the west point, and passed over some sunken rocks, which might have been avoided, by keeping a little more to the east, orabout one-third channel over. The wind left us as soon as we were withinthe entrance, and obliged us to drop an anchor in four fathoms water. Afterthis, the boats were sent again to sound; and, in the meantime, the launchwas hoisted out, in order to carry out anchors to warp in by, as soon as weshould be acquainted with the channel. 

While we were thus employed, many of the natives got together in parties, on several parts of the shore, all armed with bows, spears, &c. Some swamoff to us, others came in canoes. At first they were shy, and kept at thedistance of a stone's throw; they grew insensibly bolder; and, at last, came under our stern, and made some exchanges. The people in one of thefirst canoes, after coming as near as they durst, threw towards us somecocoa-nuts. I went into a boat and picked them up, giving them in returnsome cloth and other articles. This induced others to come under the stern, and alongside, where their behaviour was insolent and daring. They wantedto carry off every thing within their reach; they got hold of the fly ofthe ensign, and would have torn it from the staff; others attempted toknock the rings off the rudder; but the greatest trouble they gave us wasto look after the buoys of our anchors, which were no sooner thrown out ofour boats, or let go from the ship, than they got hold of them. A fewmuskets fired in the air had no effect; but a four-pounder frightened themso much, that they quitted their canoes that instant, and took to thewater. But as soon as they found themselves unhurt, they got again intotheir canoes, gave us some halloos, flourished their weapons, and returnedonce more to the buoys. This put us to the expence of a few musquetoonshot, which had the desired effect. Although none were hurt, they wereafterwards afraid to come near the buoys; very soon all retired on shore, and we were permitted to sit down to dinner undisturbed. 

During these transactions, a friendly old man in a small canoe made severaltrips between us and the shore, bringing off each time a few cocoa-nuts, ora yam, and taking in exchange whatever we gave him. Another was on thegangway when the great gun was fired, but I could not prevail on him tostay there long. Towards the evening, after the ship was moored, I landedat the head of the harbour, in the S. E. Corner, with a strong party of men, without any opposition being made by a great number of the natives who wereassembled in two parties, the one on our right and the other on the left, armed with clubs, darts, spears, slings, and stones, bows, and arrows, &c. After distributing to the old people (for we could distinguish no chief), and some others, presents of cloth, medals, &c. I ordered two casks to befilled with water out of a pond about twenty paces behind the landing-place; giving the natives to understand, that this was one of the articleswe wanted. Besides water, we got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemedto be in plenty on the trees; but they could not be prevailed upon to partwith any of their weapons. These they held in constant readiness, and inthe proper attitudes of offence and defence; so that little was wanting tomake them attack us; at least we thought so, by their pressing so much uponus, and in spite of our endeavours to keep them off. Our early re-embarkingprobably disconcerted their scheme; and after that, they all retired. Thefriendly old man before mentioned, was in one of these parties; and wejudged, from his conduct, that his temper was pacific. 

 [1] Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. I. P. 140, 141. 

 [2] "Our ship now probably resembled an hospital; the poisoned patients were still in a deplorable situation; they continued to have gripes and acute pains in all their bones: In the day time they were in a manner giddy, and felt a great heaviness in their heads; at night, as soon as they were warm in bed, their pains redoubled, and robbed them actually of sleep. The secretion of _saliva_ was excessive; the skin peeled off from the whole body, and pimples appeared on their hands. Those who were less affected with pains, were much weaker in proportion, and crawled about the decks, emaciated to mere shadows We had not one lieutenant able to do duty; and as one of the mates and several of the midshipmen were likewise ill, the watches were commanded by the gunner and the other mates. The dogs which had unfortunately fed upon the same fish, were in a still worse condition, as we could not give them any relief. They groaned and panted most piteously, drank great quantities of water, and appeared to be tortured with pain. Those which had eaten of the entrails were vastly more affected than the rest. --G. F. "

 According to this gentleman, the crew never felt more severely the tediousness of confinement to the ship, or were more tired of salt provisions. Two sharks caught on the 31st afforded them a very acceptable entertainment, and were greedily devoured. One of these, he tells us, had in his maw four young turtles, of eighteen inches in diameter, two large cuttle-fishes, and the feathers and skeleton of a booby; yet notwithstanding so plentiful a repast, he seemed to be well disposed for a piece of salt pork with which the hook was baited. --E. 

SECTION V. 

_An Intercourse established with the Natives; some Account of the Island, and a Variety of Incidents that happened during our Stay at it. _

As we wanted to take in a large quantity both of wood and water, and as, when I was on shore, I had found it practicable to lay the ship much nearerthe landing-place than she now was, which would greatly facilitate thatwork, as well as overawe the natives, and enable us better to cover andprotect the working party on shore; with this view, on the 6th, we went towork to transport the ship to the place I designed to moor her in. While wewere about this, we observed the natives assembling from all parts, andforming themselves into two parties, as they did the preceding evening, oneon each side the landing-place, to the amount of some thousands, armed asbefore. A canoe, sometimes conducted by one, and at other times by two orthree men, now and then came off, bringing a few cocoa-nuts or plantains. These they gave us without asking for any return; but I took care theyshould always have something. Their chief design seemed to invite us onshore. One of those who came off was the old man, who had alreadyingratiated himself into our favour. I made him understand, by signs, thatthey were to lay aside their weapons, took those which were in the canoe, and threw them overboard, and made him a present of a large piece of cloth. There was no doubt but he understood me, and made my request known to hiscountrymen. For as soon as he landed, we observed him to go first to theone party, and then to the other; nor was he, ever after, seen by us withany thing like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows came in acanoe under the stern, one of them brandishing a club, with which he struckthe ship's side, and committed other acts of defiance, but at last offeredto exchange it for a string of beads, and some other trifles. These weresent down to him by a line; but the moment they were in his possession, heand his companions paddled off in all haste, without giving the club or anything else in return. This was what I expected, and indeed what I was notsorry for, as I wanted an opportunity to shew the multitude on shore, theeffect of our fire arms, without materially hurting any of them. Having afowling-piece loaded with small shot (No. 3) I gave the fellow thecontents; and, when they were above musquet-shot off, I ordered some of themusquetoons, or wall-pieces, to be fired, which made them leap out of thecanoe, keep under her offside, and swim with her ashore. This transactionseemed to make little or no impression on the people there. On thecontrary, they began to halloo, and to make sport of it. [1]

After mooring the ship, by four anchors, with her broadside to the landing-place, hardly musquet-shot off, and placing our artillery in such a manneras to command the whole harbour, I embarked with the marines, and a partyof seamen, in three boats, and rowed in for the shore. It hath been alreadymentioned, that the two divisions of the natives were drawn up on each sidethe landing-place. They had left a space between them of about thirty orforty yards, in which were laid, to the most advantage, a few small bunchesof plantains, a yam, and two or three roots. Between these and the waterwere stuck upright in the sand, for what purpose I never could learn, foursmall reeds, about two feet from each other, in a line at right angles tothe shore, where they remained for two or three days after. The old manbefore-mentioned, and two more, stood by these things, inviting us, bysigns, to land; but I had not forgot the trap I was so near being caught inat the last island; and this looked something like it. We answered, bymaking signs for the two divisions to retire farther back, and give us moreroom. The old man seemed to desire them so to do, but no more regard waspaid to him than to us. More were continually joining them, and, except twoor three old men, not one unarmed. In short, every thing conspired to makeus believe they meant to attack us as soon as we should be on shore; theconsequence of which was easily supposed; many of them must have beenkilled and wounded, and we should hardly have escaped unhurt; two things Iequally wished to prevent. Since, therefore, they would not give us theroom required, I thought it was better to frighten them into it, than tooblige them by the deadly effect of our fire-arms. I accordingly ordered amusquet to be fired over the party on our right, which was by far thestrongest body; but the alarm it gave them was momentary. In an instantthey recovered themselves and began to display their weapons. One fellowshewed us his backside, in a manner which plainly conveyed his meaning. 

After this I ordered three or four more musquets to be fired. This was thesignal for the ship to fire a few great guns, which presently dispersedthem; and then we landed, and marked out the limits, on the right and left, by a line. Our old friend stood his ground, though deserted by his twocompanions, and I rewarded his confidence with a present. The natives camegradually to us, seemingly in a more friendly manner; some even withouttheir weapons, but by far the greatest part brought them; and when we madesigns to lay them down, they gave us to understand that we must lay downours first. Thus all parties stood armed. The presents I made to the oldpeople, and to such as seemed to be of consequence, had little effect ontheir conduct. They indeed climbed the cocoa-nut trees, and threw us downthe nuts, without requiring any thing for them; but I took care that theyshould always have somewhat in return. I observed that many were afraid totouch what belonged to us; and they seemed to have no notion of exchangingone thing for another. I took the old man (whose name we now found to bePaowang) to the woods, and made him understand, I wanted to cut down sometrees to take on board the ship; cutting some down at the same time, whichwe put into one of our boats, together with a few small casks of water, with a view of letting the people see what it was we chiefly wanted. Paowang very readily gave his consent to cut wood; nor was there any onewho made the least objection. He only desired the cocoa-nut trees might notbe cut down. Matters being thus settled, we embarked and returned on boardto dinner, and, immediately after, they all dispersed. I never learnt thatany one was hurt by our shot, either on this or the preceding day; whichwas a very happy circumstance. In the afternoon having landed again, weloaded the launch with water, and having made three hauls with the seine, caught upwards of three hundred pounds of mullet and other fish. It wassome time before any of the natives appeared, and not above twenty orthirty at last, amongst whom was our trusty friend Paowang, who made us apresent of a small pig, which was the only one we got at this isle, or thatwas offered to us. 

During the night the volcano, which was about four miles to the west of us, vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as it had also done the nightbefore; and the flames were seen to rise above the hill which lay betweenus and it. At every eruption it made a long rumbling noise like that ofthunder, or the blowing up of large mines. A heavy shower of rain, whichfell at this time, seemed to increase it; and the wind blowing from thesame quarter, the air was loaded with its ashes, which fell so thick thatevery thing was covered with the dust. It was a kind of fine sand, orstone, ground or burnt to powder, and was exceedingly troublesome to theeyes. 

Early in the morning of the 7th, the natives began again to assemble nearthe watering-place, armed as usual, but not in such numbers as at first. After breakfast, we landed, in order to cut wood and fill water. I foundmany of the islanders much inclined to be friends with us, especially theold people; on the other hand, most of the younger were daring andinsolent, and obliged us to keep to our arms. I staid till I saw nodisturbance was like to happen, and then returned to the ship, leaving theparty under the command of Lieutenants Clerke and Edgcumbe. When they cameon board to dinner, they informed me that the people continued to behave inthe same inconsistent manner as in the morning; but more especially oneman, whom Mr Edgcumbe was obliged to fire at, and believed he had struckwith a swan shot. After that the others behaved with more discretion; andas soon as our people embarked they all retired. While we were sitting atdinner an old man came on board, looked into many parts of the ship, andthen went ashore again. 

In the afternoon, only a few of those who lived in the neighbourhood, withwhom we were now upon a tolerable footing, made their appearance at thewatering-place. Paowang brought us an axe which had been left by ourpeople, either in the woods or on the beach, and found by some of thenatives. A few other articles were afterwards returned to us, which eitherthey had stolen, or we had lost by our negligence, so careful were they nownot to offend us in this respect. 

Early the next morning, I sent the launch, protected by a party of marinesin another boat, to take in ballast, which was wanted. This work was donebefore breakfast; and after it, she was sent for wood and water, and withher the people employed in this service, under the protection of aserjeant's guard, which was now thought sufficient, as the natives seemedto be pretty well reconciled to us. I was told, that they asked our peopleto go home with them, on condition they stripped naked as they were. Thisshews that they had no design to rob them, whatever other they mighthave. [2]

On the 9th, I sent the launch for more ballast, and the guard and woodersto the usual place. With these I went myself, and found a good many of thenatives collected together, whose behaviour, though armed, was courteousand obliging; so that there was no longer any occasion to mark out thelimits by a line; they observed them without this precaution. As it wasnecessary for Mr Wales's instruments to remain on shore all the middle ofthe day, the guard did not return to dinner, as they had done before, tillrelieved by others. When I came off, I prevailed on a young man, whose namewas Wha-a-gou, to accompany me. Before dinner I shewed him every part ofthe ship; but did not observe that any thing fixed his attention a moment, or caused in him the least surprise. He had no knowledge of goats, dogs, orcats, calling them all hogs (_Booga_ or _Boogas_). I made him apresent of a dog and a bitch, as he shewed a liking to that kind of animal. Soon after he came on board, some of his friends followed in a canoe, andenquired for him, probably doubtful of his safety. He looked out of thequarter gallery, and having spoken to them, they went ashore, and quicklyreturned with a cock, a little sugar-cane, and a few cocoa-nuts, as apresent to me. Though he sat down with us, he did but just taste our saltpork, but eat pretty heartily of yam, and drank a glass of wine. Afterdinner I made him presents, and then conducted him, ashore. [3]

As soon as we landed, the youth and some of his friends took me by thehand, with a view, as I understood, to conduct me to their habitations. Wehad not gone far, before some of them, for what reason I know not, wereunwilling I should proceed; in consequence of which the whole companystopped; and, if I was not mistaken, a person was dispatched for somethingor other to give me; for I was desired to sit down and wait, which Iaccordingly did. During this interval, several of our gentlemen passed us, at which they shewed great uneasiness, and importuned me so much to orderthem back, that I was at last obliged to comply. They were jealous of ourgoing up the country, or even along the shore of the harbour. While I waswaiting here, our friend Paowang came with a present of fruit and roots, carried by about twenty men; in order, as I supposed, to make it appear thegreater. One had a small bunch of plantains, another a yam, a third acocoa-nut, &c. ; but two men might have carried the whole with ease. Thispresent was in return for something I had given him in the morning;however, I thought the least I could do now, was to pay the porters. 

After I had dispatched Paowang, I returned to Wha-a-gou and his friends, who were still for detaining me. They seemed to wait with great impatiencefor something, and to be unwilling and ashamed to take away the two dogs, without making me a return. As night was approaching, I pressed to be gone;with which they complied, and so we parted. 

The preceding day, Mr Forster learnt from the people the proper name of theisland, which they call Tanna; and this day I learnt from them the names ofthose in the neighbourhood. The one we touched at last is called Erromango;the small isle, which we discovered the morning we landed here, Immer; theTable island to the east, discovered at the same time, Erronan or Footoona;and an island which lies to the S. E. Annattom. All these islands are to beseen from Tanna. 

They gave us to understand, in a manner which I thought admitted of nodoubt, that they eat human flesh, and that circumcision was practised amongthem. They began the subject of eating human flesh, of their own accord, byasking us if we did; otherwise I should never have thought of asking themsuch a question. I have heard people argue, that no nation could becannibals, if they had other flesh to eat, or did not want food; thusderiving the custom from necessity. The people of this island can be underno such necessity; they have fine pork and fowls, and plenty of roots andfruits. But since we have not actually seen them eat human flesh, it willadmit of doubt with some, whether they are cannibals. [4]

When I got on board, I learnt that, when the launch was on the west side ofthe harbour taking in ballast, one of the men employed in this work, hadscalded his fingers in taking a stone up out of some water. Thiscircumstance produced the discovery of several hot springs, at the foot ofthe cliff, and rather below high-water mark. 

This day Mr Wales, and two or three of the officers advanced a little, forthe first time, into the island. They met with a small straggling village, the inhabitants of which treated them with great civility; and the nextmorning Mr Forster and his party made another excursion inland. They metwith several fine plantations of plantains, sugar-canes, yams, &C. ; and thenatives were courteous and civil. Indeed, by this time, the people, especially those in our neighbourhood, were so well reconciled to us, thatthey shewed not the least dislike at our rambling about in the skirts ofthe woods, shooting, &c. In the afternoon some boys having got behindthickets, and having thrown two or three stones at our people who werecutting wood, they were fired at by the petty officers present on duty. Being ashore at that time, I was alarmed at hearing the report of themusquets, and seeing two or three boys run out of the wood. When I knew thecause I was much displeased at so wanton an use being made of our fire-arms, and took measures to prevent it for the future. Wind southerly, withheavy showers of rain. [5]

During the night, and also all the 11th, the volcano was exceedinglytroublesome, and made a terrible noise, throwing up prodigious columns offire and smoke at each explosion, which happened every three or fourminutes; and, at one time, great stones were seen high in the air. Besidesthe necessary work of wooding and watering, we struck the main-top-mast tofix new trestle-trees and back-stays. Mr Forster and his party went up thehill on the west side of the harbour, where he found three places fromwhence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks and fissures inthe earth. The ground about these was exceedingly hot, and parched orburnt, and they seemed to keep pace with the volcano; for, at everyexplosion of the latter, the quantity of smoke or steam in these wasgreatly increased, and forced out so as to rise in small columns, which wesaw from the ship, and had taken for common fires made by the natives. Atthe foot of this hill are the hot-springs before mentioned. 

In the afternoon, Mr Forster having begun his botanical researches on theother side of the harbour, fell in with our friend Paowang's house, wherehe saw most of the articles I had given him, hanging on the adjoining treesand bushes, as if they were not worthy of being under his roof. 

On the 12th, some of the officers accompanied Mr Forster to the hot placeshe had been at the preceding day. A thermometer placed in a little holemade in one of them, rose from 80, at which it stood in the open air, to170. Several other parts of the hill emitted smoke or steam all the day, and the volcano was unusually furious, insomuch that the air was loadedwith its ashes. The rain which fell at this time was a compound of water, sand, and earth; so that it properly might be called showers of mire. Whichever way the wind was, we were plagued with the ashes; unless it blewvery strong indeed from the opposite direction. Notwithstanding the nativesseemed well enough satisfied with the few expeditions we had made in theneighbourhood, they were unwilling we should extend them farther. As aproof of this, some undertook to guide the gentlemen when they were in thecountry, to a place where they might see the mouth of the volcano. Theyvery readily embraced the offer; and were conducted down to the harbour, before they perceived the cheat. [6]

The 13th, wind at N. E. , gloomy weather. The only thing worthy of note thisday was, that Paowang being at dinner with us on board, I took theopportunity to shew him several parts of the ship, and various articles, inhopes of finding out something which they might value, and be induced totake from us in exchange for refreshments; for what we got of this kind wastrifling. But he looked on every thing that was shewn him with the utmostindifference; nor did he take notice of any one thing, except a woodensand-box, which he seemed to admire, and turned it two or three times overin his hand. 

Next morning after breakfast, a party of us set out for the country, to tryif we could not get a nearer and better view of the volcano. We went by theway of one of those hot smoking places before mentioned, and dug a hole inthe hottest part, into which a thermometer of Fahrenheit's construction wasput; and the mercury presently rose to 100°. It remained in the hole twominutes and a half without either rising or falling. The earth about thisplace was a kind of white clay, had a sulphureous smell, and was soft andwet, the surface only excepted, over which was spread a thin dry crust, that had upon it some sulphur, and a vitriolic substance, tasting likealum. The place affected by the heat was not above eight or ten yardssquare; and near it were some fig-trees, which spread their branches overpart of it, and seemed to like their situation. We thought that thisextraordinary heat was caused by the steam of boiling water, stronglyimpregnated with sulphur. I was told that some of the other places werelarger than this; though we did not go out of the road to look at them, butproceeded up the hill through a country so covered with trees, shrubs, andplants, that the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, which, seem to have beenplanted here by nature, were, in a manner, choaked up. Here and there wemet with a house, some few people, and plantations. These latter we foundin different states, some of long standing, others lately cleared, and someonly clearing, and before any thing had been planted. The clearing of apiece of ground for plantation, seemed to be a work of much labour, considering the tools they had to work with, which, though much inferior tothose at the Society Isles, are of the same kind. Their method is, however, judicious, and as expeditious as it can well be. They lop off the smallbranches of the large trees, dig under the roots, and there burn thebranches and small shrubs and plants which they root up. The soil, in someparts, is a rich black mould; in other parts, it seemed to be composed ofdecayed vegetables, and of the ashes the volcano sends forth throughout allits neighbourhood. Happening to turn out of the common path, we came into aplantation where we found a man at work, who, either out of good-nature, orto get us the sooner out of his territories, undertook to be our guide. Wefollowed him, accordingly, but had not gone far before we came to thejunction of two roads, in one of which stood another man with a sling and astone, which he thought proper to lay down when a musquet was pointed athim. The attitude in which we found him, the ferocity appearing in hislooks, and his behaviour after, convinced us that he meant to defend thepath he stood in. He, in some measure, gained his point, for our guide tookthe other road, and we followed, but not without suspecting he was leadingus out of the common way. The other man went with us likewise, counting usseveral times over, and hallooing, as we judged, for assistance; for wewere presently joined by two or three more, among whom was a young womanwith a club in her hand. By these people we were conducted to the brow of ahill, and shewn a road leading down to the harbour, which they wanted us totake. Not choosing to comply, we returned to that we had left, which wepursued alone, our guide refusing to go with us. After ascending anotherridge, as thickly covered with wood as those we had come over, we saw yetother hills between us and the volcano, which seemed as far off as at ourfirst setting out. This discouraged us from proceeding farther, especiallyas we could get no one to be our guide. We therefore came to a resolutionto return; and had but just put this in execution when we met betweentwenty and thirty people, whom the fellow before mentioned had collectedtogether, with a design, as we judged, to oppose our advancing into thecountry; but as they saw us returning they suffered us to pass unmolested. Some of them put us into the right road, accompanied us down the hill, madeus stop by the way, to entertain us with cocoa-nuts, plantains, and sugar-cane; and what we did not eat on the spot, they brought down the hill withus. Thus we found these people hospitable, civil, and good-natured, whennot prompted to a contrary conduct by jealousy; a conduct I cannot tell howto blame them for, especially when I considered the light in which theymust view us. It was impossible for them to know our real design; we entertheir ports without their daring to oppose; we endeavour to land in theircountry as friends, and it is well if this succeeds; we land, nevertheless, and maintain the footing we have got, by the superiority of our fire-arms. Under such circumstances, what opinion are they to form of us? Is it not asreasonable for them to think that we are come to invade their country, asto pay them a friendly visit? Time, and some acquaintance with us, can onlyconvince them of the latter. These people are yet in a rude state; and, ifwe may judge from circumstances and appearances, are frequently at war, notonly with their neighbours, but among themselves; consequently must bejealous of every new face. I will allow there are some exceptions to thisrule to be found in this sea; but there are few nations who would willinglysuffer visitors like us to advance far into their country. 

Before this excursion, some of us had been of opinion that these peoplewere addicted to an unnatural passion, because they had endeavoured toentice some of our men into the woods; and, in particular, I was told, thatone who had the care of Mr Forster's plant bag, had been once or twiceattempted. As the carrying of bundles, &c. Is the office of the women inthis country, it had occurred to me, and I was not singular in this, thatthe natives might mistake him and some others for women. My conjecture wasfully verified this day. For this man, who was one of the party, andcarried the bag as usual, following me down the hill, by the words which Iunderstood of the conversation of the natives, and by their actions, I waswell assured that they considered him as a female; till, by some means, they discovered their mistake, on which they cried out, "Erramange!Erramange!" "It is a man! It is a man!" The thing was so palpable, thatevery one was obliged to acknowledge, that they had before mistaken hissex: and that, after they were undeceived, they seemed not to have theleast notion of what we had suspected. This circumstance will shew howliable we are to form wrong conjectures of things, among people whoselanguage we are ignorant of. Had it not been for this discovery, I make nodoubt that these people would have been charged with this vile custom. 

In the evening I took a walk with some of the gentlemen into the country onthe other side of the harbour, where we had very different treatment fromwhat we had met with in the morning. The people we now visited, among whomwas our friend Paowang, being better acquainted with us, shewed a readinessto oblige us in every thing in their power. We came to the village whichhad been visited on the 9th. It consisted of about twenty houses, the mostof which need no other description than comparing them to the roof of athatched house in England, taken off the walls and placed on the ground. Some were open at both ends, others partly closed with reeds, and all werecovered with palm thatch. A few of them were thirty or forty feet long, andfourteen or sixteen broad. Besides these, they have other mean hovels, which, I conceived, were only to sleep in. Some of these stood in aplantation, and I was given to understand, that in one of them lay a deadcorpse. They made signs that described sleep, or death; and circumstancespointed out the latter. Curious to see all I could, I prevailed on anelderly man to go with me to the hut, which was separated from the othersby a reed fence, built quite round it at the distance of four or five feet. The entrance was by a space in the fence, made so low as to admit one tostep over. The two sides and one end of the hut were closed or built up inthe same manner, and with the same materials, as the roof. The other endhad been open, but was now well closed with mats, which I could not prevailon the man to remove, or suffer me to do it. There hung at this end of thehut a matted bag or basket, in which was a piece of roasted yam, and somesort of leaves, all quite fresh. I had a strong desire to see the inside ofthe hut but the man was peremptory in refusing this, and even shewed anunwillingness to permit me to look into the basket. He wore round his neck, fastened to a string, two or three locks of human hair; and a woman presenthad several about her neck. I offered something in exchange for them, butthey gave me to understand they could not part with them, as it was thehair of the person who lay in the hut. Thus I was led to believe that thesepeople dispose of their dead in a manner similar to that of Otaheite. Thesame custom of wearing the hair is observed by the people of that island, and also by the New Zealanders. The former make tamau of the hair of theirdeceased friends, and the latter make ear-rings and necklaces of theirteeth. 

Near most of their large houses were fixed, upright in the ground, thestems of four cocoa-nut trees, in a square position, about three feet fromeach other. Some of our gentlemen who first saw them, were inclined tobelieve they were thus placed on a religious account; but I was nowsatisfied that it was for no other purpose but to hang cocoa-nuts on todry. For when I asked, as well as I could, the use of them, a man took meto one, loaded with cocoa-nuts from the bottom to the top; and no wordscould have informed me better. Their situation is well chosen for this use, as most of their large houses are built in an open airy place, or where thewind has a free passage, from whatever direction it blows. Near most, ifnot all of them, is a large tree or two, whose spreading branches afford anagreeable retreat from the scorching sun. This part of the island was wellcultivated, open and airy; the plantations were laid out by line, aboundingwilh plantains, sugar-canes, yams and other roots, and stocked with fruit-trees. In our walk we met with our old friend Paowang, who, with someothers, accompanied us to the water side, and brought with them, as apresent, a few yams and cocoa-nuts. 

On the 15th, having finished wooding and watering, a few hands only were onshore making brooms, the rest being employed on board setting up therigging, and putting the ship in a condition for sea. Mr Forster, in hisbotanical excursion this day, shot a pigeon, in the craw of which was awild nutmeg. He took some pains to find the tree, but his endeavours werewithout success. In the evening a party of us walked to the eastern sea-shore, in order to take the bearing of Annattom, and Erronan or Footoona. The horizon proved so hazy that I could see neither; but one of the nativesgave me, as I afterwards found, the true direction of them. We observedthat in all, or most of their sugar plantations, were dug holes or pits, four feet deep, and five or six in diameter; and on our enquiring theiruse, we were given to understand that they caught rats in them. Theseanimals, which are very destructive to the canes, are here in great plenty. The canes, I observed, were planted as thick as possible round the edge ofthese pits, so that the rats in coming at them are the more liable totumble in. 

Next morning we found the tiller sprung in the rudder head, and, by somestrange neglect, we had not a spare one on board, which we were ignorant oftill now it was wanting. I knew but of one tree in the neighbourhood fitfor this purpose, which I sent the carpenter on shore to look at, and anofficer, with a party of men, to cut it down, provided he could obtainleave of the natives; if not, he was ordered to acquaint me. He understoodthat no one had any objection, and set the people to work accordingly. Butas the tree was large, this required some time; and, before it was down, word was brought me that our friend Paowang was not pleased. Upon this Igave orders to desist, as we found that, by scarfing a piece to the innerend of the tiller, and letting it farther into the rudder-head, it wouldstill perform its office. But as it was necessary to have a spare one onboard, I went on shore, sent for Paowang, made him a present of a dog and apiece of cloth, and then explained to him that our great steering paddlewas broken, and that I wanted that tree to make a new one. It was easy tosee how well pleased every one present was, with the means I took to obtainit. With one voice they gave their consent, Paowang joining his also, whichhe perhaps could not have done without the others; for I do not know thathe had either more property, or more authority, than the rest. This pointbeing obtained, I took our friend on board to dinner, and after it wasover, went with him ashore, to pay a visit to an old chief, who was said tobe king of the island; which was a doubt with me. Paowang took little or nonotice of him. I made him a present, after which he immediately went away, as if he got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and they gave him thetitle of Areeke. He was very old, but had a merry open countenance. He woreround his waist a broad red-and-white chequered belt, the materials andmanufacture of which seemed the same as that of Otaheite cloth; but thiswas hardly a mark of distinction. He had with him a son, not less thanforty-five or fifty years of age. A great number of people were at thistime at the landing-place, most of them from distant parts. The behaviourof many was friendly; while others were daring and insolent, which Ithought proper to put up with, as our stay was nearly at an end. 

On the 17th, about ten o'clock, I went ashore, and found in the crowd oldGeogy and his son, who soon made me understand that they wanted to dinewith me; and accordingly I brought them and two more on board. They allcalled them Areekees (or kings); but I doubt if any of them had the leastpretensions to that title over the whole island. It had been remarked, thatone of these kings had not authority enough to order one of the people upinto a cocoa-nut tree, to bring him down some nuts. Although he spoke toseveral, he was at last obliged to go himself, and, by way of revenge, asit was thought, left not a nut on the tree, taking what he wanted himself, and giving the rest to some of our people. 

When I got them on board, I went with them all over the ship, which theyviewed with uncommon surprise and attention. We happened to have for theirentertainment a kind of pie or pudding made of plantains, and some sort ofgreens which we had got from one of the natives. On this and on yams theymade a hearty dinner; for, as to the salt beef and pork, they would hardlytaste them. In the afternoon, having made each of them a present of ahatchet, a spike-nail, and some medals, I conducted them ashore. 

Mr Forster and I then went over to the other side of the harbour, and, having tried, with Fahrenheit's thermometer, the head of one of the hotsprings, we found that the mercury rose to 191°. At this time the tide wasup within two or three feet of the spring, so that we judged, it might, insome degree, be cooled by it. We were mistaken however, for on repeatingthe experiment next morning, when the tide was out, the mercury rose nohigher than 187°; but, at another spring, where the water bubbled out ofthe sand from under the rock at the S. W. Corner of the harbour, the mercuryin the same thermometer rose to 202°-1/2, which is but little colder thanboiling water. The hot places before mentioned are from about three to fourhundred feet perpendicular above these springs, and on the slope of thesame ridge with the volcano; that is, there are no vallies between them, but such as are formed in the ridge itself; nor is the volcano on thehighest part of the ridge, but on the S. E. Side of it. This is, I have beentold, contrary to the general opinion of philosophers, who say thatvolcanos must be on the summits of the highest hills. So far is this frombeing the case on this island, that some of its hills are more than doublethe height of that on which the volcano is, and close to it. To theseremarks I must add, that, in wet or moist weather, the volcano was mostviolent. There seems to be room for some philosophical reasoning on thesephenomena of nature; but not having any talent that way, I must contentmyself with stating facts as I found them, and leave the causes to men ofmore abilities. [7]

The tiller was now finished; but, as the wind was unfavourable for sailing, the guard was sent on shore on the 19th as before, and a party of men tocut up and bring off the remainder of the tree from which we had got thetiller. Having nothing else to do, I went on shore with them, and finding agood number of the natives collected about the landing-place as usual, Idistributed among them all the articles I had with me, and then went onboard for more. In less than an hour I returned, just as our people weregetting some large logs into the boat. At the same time four or five of thenatives stepped forward to see what we were about, and as we did not allowthem to come within certain limits, unless to pass along the beach, thecentry ordered them, back, which they readily complied with. At this time, having my eyes fixed on them, I observed the sentry present his piece (as Ithought at these men, ) and was just going to reprove him for it, because Ihad observed that, whenever this was done, some of the natives would holdup their arms, to let us see they were equally ready. But I was astonishedbeyond measure when the sentry fired, for I saw not the least cause. Atthis outrage most of the people fled; it was only a few I could prevail onto remain. As they ran off, I observed one man to fall; and he wasimmediately lifted up by two others, who took him into the water, andwashed his wound, and then led him off. Presently after, some came anddescribed to me the nature of his wound; and as I found he was not carriedfar, I sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived, I went with him to theman, whom, we found expiring. The ball had struck his left arm, which wasmuch shattered, and then entered his body by the short ribs, one of whichwas broken. The rascal who fired, pretended that a man had laid an arrowacross his bow, and was going to shoot at him, so that he apprehendedhimself in danger. But this was no more than they had always done, and withno other view than to shew they were armed as well as we; at least I havereason to think so, as they never went farther. What made this incident themore unfortunate was, it not appearing to be the man who bent the bow, thatwas shot, but one who stood by him. This affair threw the natives into theutmost consternation; and a few that were prevailed on to stay, ran to theplantations and brought cocoa-nuts, &c. Which they laid down at our feet. So soon, were those daring people humbled! When I went on board to dinner, they all retired, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, amongst whomwere Paowang and Wha-a-gou. I had not seen this young man since the day hehad dined on board. Both he and Paowang promised to bring me fruit, &c. Thenext morning, but our early departure put it out of their power. [8]

 [1] "In order to make the sequel more intelligible, it will be necessary to give a slight sketch of the appearance of the country which encloses the harbour. The point which forms its eastern shore is very low and flat, but presently rises into a level hill, about fifteen or twenty yards high, which is wholly laid out in plantations. This encompasses the eastern and southern shore of the bay, being near three miles long, and extending several miles inland to the sea on the other side. Where this flat hill ends, a fine plain covered with plantations runs to the southward, bounded by several ranges of pleasant hills, of which the nearest are of easy ascent. To the west this plain, as well as the whole bay itself, is enclosed by a steep hill, three or four hundred yards high, which is nearly perpendicular in most places. A narrow beach of large broken shingles and stones runs along the western shore, but a perpendicular rock separates it from the southern beach. This last is very broad, and consists of a firm black sand; it bounds the plain, and is the same where we cut wood and filled our casks with water. A beach of coral rock and shell sand continues from thence along the foot of the flat hill quite to the eastern point of the harbour. The flat hill does not lie close to this beach, but a space of level land, thirty or forty yards wide, covered with groves of palms, extends to its foot. The whole south east corner of the bay is filled with a flat reef of coral, which is overflowed at low water. "--G. F. 

 [2] "The women and children, though they brought us several dainties, were notwithstanding so extremely timorous, that if we only fixed our eyes upon them, they instantly ran away, to the great entertainment of the men. However, their coming so near us, was sufficient proof that we had made great progress towards gaining their confidence. We observed some of them who had a smile on their countenances, but in general they looked gloomy and melancholy. Whenever we presented a bead, a nail, or ribbon to any of the people, they refused to touch it, but desired us to lay it down, and then took it up in a leaf. Whether this was owing to some superstitious notions, or to a fancied idea of cleanliness, or of civility, must remain a matter of doubt. "-- G. F. 

 [3] "He, as well as all his countrymen, had not the same facility of pronunciation as the Mallecollese; we were therefore obliged to tell him our names, modified according to the softer organs of the Otaheitans. His features were rather handsome, his eyes large and very lively; and the whole countenance expressed good humour, sprightliness, and acuteness. 

 To mention only a single instance of his ingenuity; it happened that my father and Captain Cook, on comparing their vocabularies, discovered that each had collected a different word to signify the sky; they appealed to him to know which of the two expressions was right; he presently held out one hand, and applied it to one of the words, then moving the other hand under it, he pronounced the second word; intimating that the upper was properly the sky, and the lower the clouds which moved under it. His manners at table were extremely becoming and decent; and the only practice which did not appear quite cleanly in our eyes, was his making use of a stick, which he wore in his hair, instead of a fork, with which he occasionally scratched his head. "--G. F. 

 [4] These people, according to Mr G. F. , frequently alluded to this horrid practice, and threatened it indeed to those of the crew that, in opposition to their will, offered to go to certain spots on the island. Hence, that gentleman infers the existence of the practice among them, and perhaps with great justice, as there can be little or no doubt that it either has prevailed or now prevails in all the islands of the South Seas. --E. 

 [5] "We took a walk to the eastward along the shore of the bay, and looked into the groves which skirted the flat hill before spoken of. We found these groves to consist of coco-palms, and several species of shady fig-trees, with eatable fruits, nearly of the size of the common figs. We also observed several sheds, under which some of their canoes were secured from the sun and weather; but there were no habitations, except towards the eastern point. We found a path, which led through a variety of bushes upon the flat hills. In our way to it, we crossed some glades, or meadows, enclosed in woods on all sides, and covered with a very rich herbage of the most vivid green. We passed through a little airy grove, into several extensive plantations of bananos, yams, eddoes, and fig-trees, which were in some places enclosed in fences of stone two feet high. "--G. F. 

 [6] "We took the opportunity of the absence of the natives, to walk out upon the plain, behind the watering-place. We met with several ponds of stagnant water, in which the natives had planted great quantities of eddoes. The coco-palms formed spacious groves, full of different shrubberies, where a great number of birds of different sorts, chiefly fly-catchers, creepers, and parroquets, resided. We saw likewise many lofty trees, covered with nuts, which are common at Otaheite, (_isrocarpus_ Nov. Gen. ). These trees were commonly the resort of pigeons of different kinds, and chiefly of the sort which are to be met with at the Friendly Islands, where the natives catch and tame them. We passed by some plantations of bananas and sugar- canes, but saw no houses, the greatest part of the ground being uncultivated, and covered with shady forests, or low shrubberies. At the east end of the plain we observed a long and spacious valley, from whence we saw a great number of smokes rising, and heard the promiscuous voices of many men, women and children. We stood in a path, on both sides of which were thick shrubberies; and the vale itself was so full of groves, that we neither saw the people, whose voices we heard, nor any of their dwellings. It being late in the evening, we proceeded no farther, and without discovering ourselves, retreated to the beach. "--G. F. 

 [7] The elder Forster has some judicious and important remarks on volcanos, in his observations, but they are too long to be given here. "It may be remarked, " says his son, "that the volcano and its productions seem to contribute greatly to that prodigious luxuriance of vegetation which is so remarkable on this island. Many plants here attain twice the height which they have in other countries; their leaves are broader, their flowers larger, and more richly scented. The same observation has been made in various volcanic countries. The soil of Vesuvius and Etna is reckoned the most fertile in Italy and Sicily; and some of the best flavoured wines which Italy produces are raised upon it. The volcanic ground on the Habichtswald in Hesse, though situated in a high, cold, and barren country, is surprisingly fertile, and covered with verdure. All kinds of plants, indigenous and foreign, thrive with luxuriance, and make this beautiful spot, on which the gardens of the landgrave are situated, the admiration of all beholders. Nay, to confine ourselves to our own voyage, the Society Islands, the Marquesas, and some of the Friendly Islands, where we found volcanic remains, as well as Ambrrym and Tanna, where we actually saw burning mountains, have a rich and fertile soil, in which nature displays the magnificence of the vegetable kingdom. Easter Island itself, wholly overturned by some volcanic eruption, produces different vegetables and useful roots, without any other soil than flags, cinders, and pumice-stones; though the burning heat of the sun, from which there is no shelter, should seem sufficient to shrivel and destroy every plant. "--G. F. 

 [8] Mr G. F. Has spoken of the atrocious deed above recited with much indignation, and the more so apparently, as it broke in on a very pleasing series of reflections he was indulging, on the felicity of these islanders and the friendly intercourse with them that had been at last effected. He concludes his account of it in the following manner. --"Thus one dark and detestable action effaced all the hopes with which I had flattered myself. The natives, instead of looking upon us in a more favourable light than upon other strangers, had reason to detest us much more, as we came to destroy under the specious mask of friendship; and some amongst us lamented that instead of making amends at this place for the many rash acts which we had perpetrated at almost every island in our course, we had wantonly made it the scene of the greatest cruelty. Captain Cook resolved to punish the marine with the utmost rigour for having transgressed his positive orders, according to which the choleric emotions of the savages were to be repressed with gentleness, and prudently suffered to cool. But the officer who commanded on shore, declared that he had not delivered these orders to the sentry, but given him others which imported, that the least threat was to be punished with immediate death. The soldier was therefore immediately cleared, and the officer's right to dispose of the lives of the natives remained uncontroverted. " The reader must have long ago perceived in the sentiments and language of this certainly eloquent writer, very sufficient grounds for much of the offence which his account of this voyage gave in England at the time of its publication. Now perhaps we can bear to be told of past transgressions, with considerable tranquillity, because we pride ourselves on the conviction of increased moral feeling; but the man who should act the friendless part of a censor among us, would still be able to discover our iniquity, in the resentment we exhibited at his officiousness. --E. 

SECTION VI. 

_Departure from Tanna; with some Account of its Inhabitants, theirManners and Arts. _

During the night the wind had veered round to S. E. As this was favourablefor getting out of the harbour, at four o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we began to unmoor, and at eight, having weighed our last anchor, put tosea. As soon as we were clear of the land, I brought-to, waiting for thelaunch, which was left behind to take up a kedge-anchor and hawser we hadout, to cast by. About day-break a noise was heard in the woods, nearlyabreast of us, on the east side of the harbour, not unlike singing ofpsalms. I was told that the like had been heard at the same time everymorning, but it never came to my knowledge till now, when it was too lateto learn the occasion of it. Some were of opinion, that at the east pointof the harbour (where we observed, in coming in, some houses, boats, &c. )was something sacred to religion, because some of our people had attemptedto go to this point, and were prevented by the natives. I thought, and dostill think, it was owing to a desire they shewed on every occasion, offixing bounds to our excursions. So far as we had once been, we might goagain; but not farther with their consent. But by encroaching a littleevery time, our country expeditions were insensibly extended without givingthe least umbrage. Besides, these morning ceremonies, whether religious ornot, were not performed down at that point, but in a part where some of ourpeople had been daily. [1]

I cannot say what might be the true cause of these people shewing suchdislike to our going up into their country. It might be owing to anaturally jealous disposition, or perhaps to their being accustomed tohostile visits from their neighbours, or quarrels among themselves. Circumstances seemed to shew that such must frequently happen; for weobserved them very expert in arms, and well accustomed to them; seldom ornever travelling without them. It is possible all this might be on ouraccount; but I hardly think it. We never gave them the least molestation, nor did we touch any part of their property, not even the wood and water, without first having obtained their consent. The very cocoa-nuts, hangingover the heads of the workmen, were as safe as those in the middle of theisland. It happened rather fortunately, that there were so many cocoa-nuttrees, near the skirts of the harbour, which seemed not to be privateproperty; so that we could generally prevail on the natives to bring ussome of these nuts, when nothing would induce them to bring any out of thecountry. 

We were not wholly without refreshments; for besides the fish, which ourseine now and then provided us with, we procured daily some fruits or rootsfrom the natives, though but little in proportion to what we could consume. The reason why we got no more might be our having nothing to give them inexchange, which they thought valuable. They had not the least knowledge ofiron; consequently, nails and iron tools, beads, &c. Which had so great arun at the more eastern isles, were of no consideration here; and cloth canbe of no use to people who go naked. 

The produce of this island is bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, a fruitlike a nectarine, yams, tarra, a sort of potatoe, sugar-cane, wild figs, afruit like an orange, which is not eatable, and some other fruit and nutswhose names I have not. Nor have I any doubt that the nutmeg beforementioned was the produce of this island. The bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, andplantains, are neither so plentiful nor so good as at Otaheite; on theother hand, sugar-canes and yams are not only in greater plenty, but ofsuperior quality, and much larger. We got one of the latter which weighedfifty-six pounds, every ounce of which was good. Hogs did not seem to bescarce; but we saw not many fowls. These are the only domestic animals theyhave. Land-birds are not more numerous than at Otaheite, and the otherislands; but we met with some small birds, with a very beautiful plumage, which we had never seen before. There is as great a variety of trees andplants here, as at any island we touched at, where our botanists had timeto examine. I believe these people live chiefly on the produce of the land, and that the sea contributes but little to their subsistence. Whether thisarises from the coast not abounding with fish, or from their being badfishermen, I know not; both causes perhaps concur. I never saw any sort offishing-tackle amongst them, nor any one out fishing, except on the shoals, or along the shores of the harbour, where they would watch to strike with adart such fish as came within their reach; and in this they were expert. They seemed much to admire our catching fish with the seine; and, Ibelieve, were not well pleased with it at last. I doubt not, they haveother methods of catching fish besides striking them. [2]

We understood that the little isle of Immer was chiefly inhabited byfishermen, and that the canoes we frequently saw pass, to and from thatisle and the east point of the harbour, were fishing canoes. These canoeswere of unequal sizes, some thirty feet long, two broad, and three deep;and they are composed of several pieces of wood clumsily sewed togetherwith bandages. The joints are covered on the outside by a thin battenchampered off at the edges, over which the bandages pass. They arenavigated either by paddles or sails. The sail is lateen, extended to ayard and boom, and hoisted to a short mast. Some of the large canoes havetwo sails, and all of them outriggers. 

At first we thought the people of this island, as well as those ofErromango, were a race between the natives of the Friendly Islands andthose of Mallicollo; but a little acquaintance with them convinced us thatthey had little or no affinity to either, except it be in their hair, whichis much like what the people of the latter island have. The general coloursof it are black and brown, growing to a tolerable length, and very crispand curly. They separate it into small locks, which they woold or cue roundwith the rind of a slender plant, down to about an inch of the ends; and, as the hair grows, the woolding is continued. Each of these cues or locksis somewhat thicker than common whipcord; and they look like a parcel ofsmall strings hanging down from the crown of their heads. Their beards, which are strong and bushy, are generally short. The women do not weartheir hair so, but cropped; nor do the boys, till they approach manhood. Some few men, women, and children, were seen, who had hair like ours; butit was obvious that these were of another nation; and, I think, weunderstood they came from Erronan. It is to this island they ascribe one ofthe two languages which they speak, and which is nearly, if not exactly, the same as that spoken in the Friendly Islands. It is therefore more thanprobable that Erronan was peopled from that nation, and that by longintercourse with Tanna and the other neighbouring islands, each had learntthe other's language, which they use indiscriminately. 

The other language which the people of Tanna speak, and, as we understood, those of Erromango and Annatom, is properly their own. It is different fromany we had before met with, and bears no affinity to that of Mallicollo; sothat, it should seem, the people of these islands are a distinct nation ofthemselves. Mallicollo, Apee, &c. Were names entirely unknown to them; theyeven knew nothing of Sandwich Island, which is much nearer. I took no smallpains to know how far their geographical knowledge extended; and did notfind that it exceeded the limits of their horizon. [3]

These people are of the middle size, rather slender than otherwise; manyare little, but few tall or stout; the most of them have good features, andagreeable countenances; are, like all the tropical race, active and nimble;and seem to excel in the use of arms, but not to be fond of labour. Theynever would put a hand to assist in any work we were carrying on, which thepeople of the other islands used to delight in. Bat what I judge most from, is their making the females do the most laborious work, as if they werepack-horses. I have seen a woman carrying a large bundle on her back, or achild on her back and a bundle under her arm, and a fellow strutting beforeher with nothing but a club or spear, or some such thing. We havefrequently observed little troops of women pass, to and fro, along thebeach, laden with fruit and roots, escorted by a party of men under arms;though, now and then, we have seen a man carry a burden at the same time, but not often. I know not on what account this was done, nor that an armedtroop was necessary. At first, we thought they were moving out of theneighbourhood with their effects, but we afterwards saw them both carryout, and bring in, every day. 

I cannot say the women are beauties, but I think them handsome enough forthe men, and too handsome for the use that is made of them. Both sexes areof a very dark colour, but not black; nor have they the leastcharacteristic of the negro about them. They make themselves blacker thanthey really are, by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour ofblack-lead. They also use another sort which is red, and a third sortbrown, or a colour between red and black. All these, but especially thefirst, they lay on with a liberal hand, not only on the face, but on theneck, shoulders, and breast. The men wear nothing but a belt, and thewrapping leaf as at Mallicollo. The women have a kind of petticoat made ofthe filaments of the plantain-tree, flags, or some such thing, whichreaches below the knee. Both sexes wear ornaments, such as bracelets, ear-rings, necklaces, and amulets. The bracelets are chiefly worn by the men;some made of sea-shells, and others of those of the cocoa-nut. The men alsowear amulets; and those of most value being made of a greenish stone, thegreen stone of New Zealand is valued by them for this purpose. Necklacesare chiefly used by the women, and made mostly of shells. Ear-rings arecommon to both sexes, and those valued most are made of tortoise-shell. Some of our people having got some at the Friendly Islands, brought it to agood market here, where it was of more value than any thing we had besides;from which I conclude that these people catch but few turtle, though I sawone in the harbour, just as we were getting under sail. I observed that, towards the latter end of our stay, they began to ask for hatchets, andlarge nails, so that it is likely they had found that iron is moreserviceable than stone, bone, or shells, of which all their tools I haveseen are made. Their stone hatchets, at least all those I saw, are not inthe shape of adzes, as at the other islands, but more like an axe. In thehelve, which is pretty thick, is made a hole into which the stone is fixed. 

These people, besides the cultivation of ground, have few other arts worthmentioning. They know how to make a coarse kind of matting, and a coarsecloth of the bark of a tree, which is used chiefly for belts. Theworkmanship of their canoes, I have before observed, is very rude; andtheir arms, with which they take the most pains in point of neatness, comefar short of some others we have seen. Their weapons are clubs, spears ordarts, bows and arrows, and stones. The clubs are of three or four kinds, and from three to five feet long. They seem to place most dependence on thedarts, which are pointed with three bearded edges. In throwing them theymake use of a becket, that is, a piece of stiff plaited cord about sixinches long, with an eye in one end and a knot at the other. The eye isfixed on the fore-finger of the right hand, and the other end is hitchedround the dart, where it is nearly on an equipoise. They hold the dartbetween the thumb and remaining fingers, which serve only to give itdirection, the velocity being communicated by the becket and fore-finger. The former flies off from the dart the instant its velocity becomes greaterthan that of the hand. But it remains on the finger ready to be used again. With darts they kill both birds and fish, and are sure of hitting a mark, within the compass of the crown of a hat, at the distance of eight or tenyards; but, at double that distance, it is chance if they hit a mark thesize of a man's body, though they will throw the weapon sixty or seventyyards. They always throw with all their might, let the distance be what itwill. Darts, bows and arrows are to them what musquets are to us. Thearrows are made of reeds pointed with hard wood; some are bearded and somenot, and those for shooting birds have two, three, and sometimes fourpoints. The stones they use are, in general, the branches of coral rocksfrom eight to fourteen inches long, and from an inch to an inch-and-half indiameter. I know not if they employ them as missive weapons; almost everyone of them carries a club, and besides that, either darts, or a bow andarrows, but never both; those who had stones kept them generally in theirbelts. 

I cannot conclude this account of their arms without adding an entirepassage out of Mr Wales's journal. As this gentleman was continually onshore amongst them, he had a better opportunity of seeing what they couldperform, than any of us. The passage is as follows: "I must confess I havebeen often led to think the feats which Homer represents his heroes asperforming with their spears, a little too much of the marvellous to beadmitted into an heroic poem; I mean when confined within the strait staysof Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate for him as Mr Pope, acknowledges them to be _surprising_. But since I have seen what thesepeople can do with their wooden spears, and them badly pointed, and not ofa very hard nature, I have not the least exception to any one passage inthat great poet on this account. But, if I see fewer exceptions, I can findinfinitely more beauties in him; as he has, I think, scarce an action, circumstance, or description of any kind whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not seen and recognised among these people; as their whirlingmotion, and whistling noise, as they fly; their quivering motion, as theystick in the ground when they fall; their meditating their aim, when theyare going to throw, and their shaking them in their hand as they go along, &c. &c. "

I know no more of their cookery, than that it consists of roasting andbaking; for they have no vessel in which water can be boiled. Nor do I knowthat they have any other liquor but water and the juice of the cocoa-nut. [4]

We are utter strangers to their religion; and but little acquainted withtheir government. They seem to have chiefs among them; at least some werepointed out to us by that title; but, as I before observed, they appearedto have very little authority over the rest of the people. Old Geogy wasthe only one the people were ever seen to take the least notice of; butwhether this was owing to high rank or old age, I cannot say. On severaloccasions I have seen the old men respected and obeyed. Our friend Paowangwas so; and yet I never heard him called chief, and have many reasons tobelieve that he had not a right to any more authority than many of hisneighbours, and few, if any, were bound to obey him, or any other person inour neighbourhood; for if there had been such a one, we certainly should, by some means, have known it. I named the harbour Port Resolution, afterthe ship, she being the first which ever entered it. It is situated on thenorth side of the most eastern point of the island, and about E. N. E. Fromthe volcano; in the latitude of 19° 32' 25" 1/2 S. , and in the longitude of169° 44' 35" E. It is no more than a little creek running in S. By W. 1/2W. Three quarters of a mile, and is about half that in breadth. A shoal ofsand and rocks, lying on the east side, makes it still narrower. The depthof water in the harbour is from six to three fathoms, and the bottom issand and mud. No place can be more convenient for taking in wood and water;for both are close to the shore. The water stunk a little after it had beena few days on board, but it afterwards turned sweet; and even when it wasat the worst, the tin machine would, in a few hours, recover a whole cask. This is an excellent contrivance for sweetening water at sea, and is wellknown in the navy. 

Mr Wales, from whom I had the latitude and longitude, found the variationof the needle to be 7° 14' 12" E. , and the dip of its south end 45° 2' 3/4. He also observed the time of high water, on the full and change days, to beabout 5h 45m; and the tide to rise and fall three feet. 

 [1] According to Mr G. F. Nothing, except this very dubious circumstance of the solemn song, could be discovered among these people, to indicate religion or superstitious notions. He mentions indeed, their practice of taking up the presents given them on a leaf, but properly enough remarks, that as even this was not general, and as it even ceased on the parties becoming better acquainted, no stress ought to be laid upon it. Obviously, the information is too scanty to warrant decided opinions on the subject; but reasoning from analogy and what is related of the conduct and enjoyments of these islanders, one could not readily embrace the notion that they were quite destitute of both religious ideas and practices. --E. 

 [2] Mr G. F. Informs us that not less than forty different species of plants are cultivated in this island, and the nutmeg he conceives to be among its spontaneous ones. Of the fish found here he specifies mullet, Brasilian pike, garfish, dolphins, cavalhas, parrot-fish, sting-rays, toothless-rays, angel-fish, sharks, sinking-fish, and varieties of mackrel. Its birds are several sorts of pigeons, parroquets, fly-catchers, the Ceylonese owl, a species of creeper, a sort of duck, and a purple water-hen. The cock and hen are its only tame fowls; and there are but three quadrupeds, hogs, rats, and bats. --E. 

 [3] If I might venture a conjecture, founded upon the languages which we heard spoken in this island, I should suppose that several tribes of different nations have peopled it, and may have disputed the possession of the ground with each other. Besides the common language of the island, and a dialect of that of the Friendly Islands, we collected some words of a third language, chiefly current among the inhabitants of its western hills; and we particularly obtained the numerals of all the three tongues, which are indeed totally extinct. In the common language of Tanna we met with two or three words, which have a clear affinity with the language of Mallicollo, and about the same number corresponded with some words of the Malay; but in general they are wholly unlike each other, and related to no other language that I know of. There is a strong kind of aspiration, and a guttural sound, in many words at Tanna, which are however very sonorous and full of vowels, and therefore easily pronounced. "--G. F. 

 [4] Captain Cook has neglected to notice the musical genius of these people. The following remarks on it are worthy of quotation. --"As I happened to hum a song one day, many of them very eagerly entreated me to sing to them, and though not one of us was properly acquainted with music, yet we ventured to gratify their curiosity, and offered them a great variety of airs. Some German and English songs, especially of the more lively kind, pleased them very much; but Dr Sparrman's Swedish tunes gained universal applause; from whence it appeared that their judgment in music was not influenced by the same rules which regulate the taste of other countries. When we had performed, we desired them in return to give us an opportunity of admiring their talents, and one of them immediately began a very simple tune; it was however harmonious, and, as for as we could judge, superior to the music of all the nations in the tropical part of the South Sea, which we had hitherto heard. It ran through a much more considerable compass of notes, than is employed at Otaheite, or even at Tonga-Tabboo; and had a serious turn which distinguished it very remarkably from the softer effeminate music of those islands. The words seemed to be naturally arranged, and flowed very currently from the tongue. When the first had finished his song, another began; his tune was different as to the composition, but had the same serious style which strongly marked the general turn of the people. They were indeed seldom seen to laugh so heartily, and jest so facetiously, as the more polished nations of the Friendly and Society Islands, who have already learnt to set a great value on these enjoyments. On the afternoon of this day, our friends importuned us to sing to them again. We readily complied with their request, and when they seemed to wonder at the difference in our songs, we endeavoured to make them comprehend that we were natives of different countries. Hearing this, they pointed out an elderly thin man in the circle of our hearers, and telling us that he was a native of Irromanga, desired him to sing to us. The man immediately stepped forward, and began a song, in the course of which he made a variety of gesticulations, not only to our entertainment, but to the great satisfaction of all the people about him. His song was to the full as musical as that of the people of Tanna, but it seemed to be of a droll or humorous nature, from his various ludicrous postures, and from the particular tone of the whole. The language was utterly distinct from that of Tanna, but not harsh or ill suited to music. It seemed likewise to have a certain metre, but very different from that slow and serious one which we heard this morning. It appeared to us when he had done singing, that the people of Tanna spoke to him in his own language, but that he was not acquainted with theirs. Whether he came as a visitor, or had been taken prisoner, we could not determine. "--G. F. 

 According to this gentleman, these people had a musical instrument, which consisted of eight reeds like the syrin of Tonga-Tabbo, with this difference, that the reeds regularly decreased in size, and comprehended an octave, though the single reeds were not perfectly in tune. It is worth while noticing here, that one of these people having one day blown with great violence into his hand several times, as a signal, he was soon answered by the sounding of several conchs in different places. --E. 

SECTION VII. 

_The Survey of the Islands continued, and a more particular Descriptionof them. _

As soon as the boats were hoisted in, we made sail, and stretched to theeastward, with a fresh gale at S. E. , in order to have a nearer view ofErronan, and to see if there was any land in its neighbourhood. We stood ontill midnight, when, having passed the island, we tacked, and spent theremainder of the night making two boards. At sun-rise on the 21st, we stoodS. W. , in order to get to the south of Tanna, and nearer to Annatom, toobserve if any more land lay in that direction; for an extraordinary clearmorning had produced no discovery of any to the east. At noon, havingobserved in latitude 20° 33' 30", the situation of the lands around us wasas follows: Port Resolution bore north 86° W. , distant six and a halfleagues; the island of Tanna extended from S. 88° W. , to N. 64° W. ;Traitor's Head N. 58° W. , distant twenty leagues; the island of Erronan N. 80° E. , distant five leagues; and Annatom from S. 1/2 E. To S. 1/2 W. , distant ten leagues. We continued to stretch to the south till two o'clockp. M. When, seeing no more land before us, we bore up round the S. E. End ofTanna; and, with a fine gale at E. S. E. , ran along the south coast at oneleague from shore. It seemed a bold one, without the guard of any rocks;and the country full as fertile as in the neighbourhood of the harbour, andmaking a fine appearance. At six o'clock the high land of Erromangoappeared over the west end of Tanna in the direction of 10° W. ; at eighto'clock we were past the island, and steered N. N. W. For Sandwich Island, inorder to finish the survey[1] of it, and of the isles to the N. W. On the22d, at four o'clock p. M. , we drew near the S. E. End, and ranging the southcoast, found it to trend in the direction of W. And W. N. W. For about nineleagues. Near the middle of this length, and close to the shore, are threeor four small isles, behind which seemed to be a safe anchorage. But notthinking I had any time to spare to visit this fine island, I continued torange the coast to its western extremity, and then steered N. N. W, from theS. E. End of Mallicollo, which, at half past six o'clock next morning, boreN. 14° E. , distant seven or eight leagues, and Three-Hills Island S. 82°E. [2] Soon after, we saw the islands Apee, Paom, and Ambrym. What we hadcomprehended under the name of Paom appeared now to be two isles, somethinglike a separation being seen between the hill and the land to the west ofit. We approached the S. W. Side of Mallicollo to within half a league, andranged it at that distance. From the S. E. Point, the direction of the landis west, a little southerly, for six or seven leagues, and then N. W. By W. Three leagues, to a pretty high point or head-land, situated in latitude16° 29', and which obtained the name of South-west Cape. The coast, whichis low, seemed to be indented into creeks and projecting points; or else, these points were small isles lying under the shore. We were sure of one, which lies between two and three leagues east of the Cape. Close to thewest side or point of the Cape, lies, connected with it by breakers, around rock or islet, which helps to shelter a fine bay, formed by an elbowin the coast, from the reigning winds. [3]

The natives appeared in troops on many parts of the shore, and some seemeddesirous to come off to us in canoes, but they did not; and, probably, ournot shortening sail, was the reason. From the South-west Cape, thedirection of the coast is N. By W. ; but the most advanced land bore from itN. W. By N. , at which the land seemed to terminate. Continuing to follow thedirection of the coast, at noon it was two miles from us; and our latitude, by observation, was 16° 22' 30" S. This is nearly the parallel to PortSandwich, and our never-failing guide, the watch, shewed that we were 26'west of it; a distance which the breadth of Mallicollo cannot exceed inthis parallel. The South-east Cape bore S. 26° E. , distant seven miles; andthe most advanced point of land, for which we steered, bore N. W. By N. Atthree o'clock, we were the length of it, and found the land continued, andtrending more and more to the north. We coasted it to its northernextremity, which we did not reach till after dark, at which time we werenear enough to the shore to hear the voices of people, who were assembledround a fire they had made on the beach. There we sounded, and found twentyfathoms and a bottom of sand; but, on edging off from the shore, we soongot out of sounding, and then made a trip back to the south till the moongot up. After this we stood again to the north, hauled round the point, andspent the night in Bougainville's passage; being assured of our situationbefore sun-set, by seeing the land, on the north side of the passage, extending as far as N. W. 1/2 W. 

The south coast of Mallicollo, from the S. E. End to the S. W. Cape, isluxuriantly clothed with wood, and other productions of nature, from thesea-shore to the very summits of the hills. To the N. W. Of the Cape thecountry is less woody, but more agreeably interspersed with lawns, some ofwhich appeared to be cultivated. The summits of the hills seemed barren;and the highest lies between Port Sandwich and the S. W. Cape. Farther norththe land falls insensibly lower, and is less covered with wood. I believeit is a very fertile island, and well inhabited; for we saw smoke by dayand fire by night, in all parts of it. [4]

Next morning at sun-rise, we found ourselves nearly in the middle of thepassage, the N. W. End of Mallicollo extending from S. 30° E. , to S. 58° W. ;the land to the north from N. 70° W. To N. 4° E. ; and the Isle of Lepersbearing N. 30° E. , distant eleven or twelve leagues. We now made sail, andsteered N. By E. , and afterwards north, along the east coast of thenorthern land, with a fine breeze at S. E. We found that this coast, whichat first appeared to be continued, was composed of several low woody isles, the most of them of small extent, except the southernmost, which, onaccount of the day, I named St Bartholomew. It is six or seven leagues incircuit, and makes the N. E. Point of Bougainville's Passage. At noon thebreeze began to slacken. We were at this time between two and three milesfrom the land, and observed in latitude 15° 23' the Isle of Lepers bearingfrom E. By N. To S. , distance seven leagues; and a high bluff-head, atwhich the coast we were upon seemed to terminate, N. N. W. 1/2 W. , distantten or eleven leagues; but from the mast-head we could see land to theeast. This we judged to be an island, and it bore N. By W. 1/2 W. 

As we advanced to N. N. W. , along a fine coast covered with woods, weperceived low land that extended off from the bluff-head towards the islandabove mentioned, but did not seem to join it. It was my intention to havegone through the channel, but the approach of night made me lay it aside, and steer without the island. During the afternoon, we passed some smallisles lying under the shore; and observed some projecting points of unequalheight, but were not able to determine whether or no they were connectedwith the main land. Behind them was a ridge of hills which terminated atthe bluff-head. There were cliffs, in some places of the coast, and whitepatches, which we judged to be chalk. At ten o'clock, being the length ofthe isle which lies off the head, we shortened sail, and spent the night inmaking short boards. 

At day-break on the 25th, we were on the north side of the island (which isof a moderate height, and three leagues in circuit, ) and steered west forthe bluff-head, along the low land under it. At sun-rise an elevated coastcame in sight beyond the bluff-head, extending to the north as far N. W. ByW. After doubling the head we found the land to trend south, a littleeasterly, and to form a large deep bay, bounded on the west by the coastjust mentioned. 

Every thing conspired to make us believe this was the Bay of St Philip andSt Jago, discovered by Quiros in 1606. To determine this point, it wasnecessary to proceed farther up; for at this time we saw no end to it. Thewind being at south, we were obliged to ply, and first stretched over forthe west shore, from which we were three miles at noon, when our latitudewas 14° 55' 30" S. , longitude 167° 3' E. ; the mouth of the bay extendingfrom N. 64° W. , to S. 86° E. , which last direction was the bluff-head, distant three leagues. In the afternoon the wind veering to E. S. E. , wecould look up to the head of the bay; but as the breeze was faint, a N. E. Swell hurtled us over to the west shore; so that, at half past four o'clockp. M. , we were no more than two miles from it, and tacked in one hundred andtwenty fathoms water, a soft muddy bottom. The bluff-head, or east point ofthe bay, bore north 53° east. 

We had no sooner tacked than it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy ofthe swell, which continued to hurtle us towards the shore, where largetroops of people were assembled. Some ventured off in two canoes; but allthe signs of friendship we could make, did not induce them to come along-side, or near enough to receive any present from us. At last they tooksudden fright at something, and returned ashore. They were naked, excepthaving some long grass, like flags, fastened to a belt, and hanging downbefore and behind, nearly as low as the knee. Their colour was very dark, and their hair woolly, or cut short, which made it seem so. [5] The canoeswere small and had outriggers. The calm continued till near eight o'clock, in which time we drove into eighty-five fathoms water, and so near theshore that I expected we should be obliged to anchor. A breeze of windsprung up at E. S. E. , and first took us on the wrong side; but, contrary toall our expectations, and when we had hardly room to veer, the ship cameabout, and having filled on the starboard tack, we stood off N. E. Thus wewere relieved from the apprehensions of being forced to anchor in a greatdepth, on a lee shore, and in a dark and obscure night. 

We continued to ply upwards, with variable light breezes between E. S. E. AndS. , till ten next morning, when it fell calm. We were, at this time, aboutseven or eight miles from the head of the bay, which is terminated by a lowbeach; and behind that, is an extensive flat covered with wood, and boundedon each side by a ridge of mountains. At noon we found the latitude to be15° 5' S. , and were detained here by the calm till one o'clock p. M. , whenwe got a breeze at N. By W. , with which we steered up to within two milesof the head of the bay; and then I sent Mr Cooper and Mr Gilbert to soundand reconnoitre the coast, while we stood to and fro with the ship. Thisgave time to three sailing canoes which had been following us some time, tocome up. There were five or six men in each; and they approached nearenough to receive such things as were thrown to them fastened to a rope, but would not advance alongside. They were the same sort of people as thosewe had seen the preceding evening; indeed we thought they came from thesame place. They seemed to be stouter and better shaped men than those ofMallicollo; and several circumstances concurred to make us think they wereof another nation. They named the numerals as far as five or six in thelanguage of Anamocka, and understood us when we asked the names of theadjacent lands in that language. Some, indeed, had black short frizzledhair like the natives of Mallicollo, but others had it long, tied up on thecrown of the head, and ornamented with feathers like the New Zealanders. Their other ornaments were bracelets and necklaces; one man had somethinglike a white shell on his forehead, and some were painted with a blackishpigment. I did not see that they had any other weapon but darts and gigs, intended only for striking of fish. Their canoes were much like those ofTanna, and navigated in the same manner, or nearly so. They readily gave usthe names of such parts as we pointed to; but we could not obtain from themthe name of the island. At length, seeing our boats coming, they paddled infor the shore, notwithstanding all we could say or do to detain them. 

When the boats returned, Mr Cooper informed me, that they had landed on thebeach which is at the head of the bay, near a fine river, or stream offresh water, so large and deep that they judged boats might enter it athigh water. They found three fathoms depth close to the beach, and fifty-five and fifty, two cables' length off. Farther out they did not sound; andwhere we were with the ship, we had no soundings with a hundred and seventyfathoms line. Before the boats got on board, the wind had shifted to theS. S. E. As we were in want of nothing, and had no time to spare, I took theadvantage of this shift of wind, and steered down the bay. During the fore-part of the night, the country was illuminated with fires, from the sea-shore to the summits of the mountains; but this was only on the west sideof the shore. I cannot pretend to say what was the occasion of these fires, but have no idea of their being on our account. Probably, they were burningor clearing the ground for new plantations. At day-break on the 27th, wefound ourselves two-thirds down the bay, and, as we had but little wind, itwas noon before we were the length of the N. W. Point, which at this timebore N. 82° W. , distant five miles. Latitude observed 14° 39' 30". 

Some of our gentlemen were doubtful of this being the bay of St Philip andSt Jago, as there was no place which they thought could mean the port ofVera Cruz. For my part I found general points to agree so well withQuiros's description, that I had not the least doubt about it. As to whathe calls the Port of Vera Cruz, I understand that to be the anchorage atthe head of the bay, which in some places may extend farther off than whereour boats landed. There is nothing in his account of the port whichcontradicts this supposition. It was but natural for his people to give aname to the place, independent of so large a bay, where they lay so long atanchor. A port is a vague term, like many others in geography, and has beenvery often applied to places far less sheltered than this. 

Our officers observed that grass and other plants grew on the beach closeto high water-mark, which is always a sure sign of pacific anchorage, andan undeniable proof that there never is a great surf on the shore. Theyjudged that the tide rose about four or five feet, and that boats and suchcraft might, at high-water, enter the river, which seemed to be pretty deepand broad within; so that this, probably, is one of those mentioned byQuiros; and if we were not deceived, we saw the other. 

The bay hath twenty leagues sea-coast, six on the east side, which lies inthe direction of S. Half W. And N. Half E. , two at the head, and twelve onthe west side, the direction of which is S. By E. And N. By W. , from thehead down to two-thirds of its length, and then N. W. By N. To the N. W. Point. The two points which form the entrance, lie in the direction of S. 53° E. , and N. 53° W. , from each other, distant ten leagues. The bay isevery where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near theshores, which are for the most part low. This, however, is only a verynarrow strip between the sea-shore and the foot of the hills; for the bay, as well as the flat land at the head of it, is bounded on each side by aridge of hills, one of which, that to the west, is very high and double, extending the whole length of the island. An uncommonly luxuriantvegetation was every where to be seen; the sides of the hills werechequered with plantations; and every valley watered by a stream. Of allthe productions of nature this country was adorned with, the cocoa-nuttrees were the most conspicuous. The columns of smoke we saw by day, andfires by night all over the country, led us to believe that it is wellinhabited and very fertile. The east point of this bay, which I name CapeQuiros, in memory of its first discoverer, is situated in latitude 14° 56'S. , longitude 167° 13' E. The N. W. Point, which I named Cape Cumberland, inhonour of his Royal Highness the Duke, lies in the latitude of 14° 38' 45"S. , longitude 166° 49' 1/2 E. , and is the N. W. Extremity of thisarchipelago; for, after doubling it, we found the coast to trend graduallyround to the S. And S. S. E. [6]

On the 28th and 29th, we had light airs and calms, so that we advanced butlittle. In this time, we took every opportunity, when the horizon wasclearer than usual, to look out for more land, but none was seen. ByQuiros's track to the north, after leaving the bay above-mentioned, itseems probable that there is none nearer than Queen Charlotte's Island, discovered by Captain Carteret, which lies about ninety leagues N. N. W. FromCape Cumberland, and I take to be the same with Quiros's Santa Cruz. 

On the 30th, the calm was succeeded by a fresh breeze at S. S. E. Whichenabled us to ply up the coast. At noon we observed in 15° 20'; afterwardswe stretched in east, to within a mile of the shore, and then tacked inseventy-five fathoms, before a sandy flat, on which several of the nativesmade their appearance. We observed on the sides of the hills, severalplantations that were laid out by line, and fenced round. 

On the 31st, at noon, the S. Or S. W. Point of the island bore N. 62° E. , distant four leagues. This forms the N. W. Point of what I callBougainville's Passage; the N. E. Point at this time bore N. 85° E. , and theN. W. End of Mallicollo from S. 54° E. To S. 72° E. Latitude observed 15°45' S. In the afternoon, in stretching to the east, we weathered the S. S. W. Point of the island, from which the coast trends east, northerly. It islow, and seemed to form some creeks or coves; and, as we got farther intothe passage, we perceived some small low isles lying along it, which seemedto extend behind St Bartholomew Island. 

Having now finished the survey of the whole archipelago, the season of theyear made it necessary for me to return to the south, while I had yet sometime left to explore any land I might meet with between this and NewZealand; where I intended to touch, that I might refresh my people, andrecruit our stock of wood and water for another southern course. With thisview, at five p. M. We tacked, and hauled to the southward with a fresh galeat S. E. At this time the N. W. Point of the passage, or the S. W. Point ofthe island Tierra del Espiritu Santo, the only remains of Quiros'scontinent, bore N. 82° W. , distant three leagues. I named it Cape Lisburne, and its situation is in latitude 15° 40', longitude 165° 59' E. 

The foregoing account of these islands, in the order in which we exploredthem, not being particular enough either as to situation or description, itmay not be improper now to give a more accurate view of them, which willconvey to the reader a better idea of the whole groupe. 

The northern islands of this archipelago were first discovered by thatgreat navigator Quiros in 1606; and, not without reason, were considered aspart of the southern continent, which, at that time, and until very lately, was supposed to exist. They were next visited by M. De Bougainville, in1768; who, besides landing on the Isle of Lepers, did no more than discoverthat the land was not connected, but composed of islands, which he calledthe Great Cyclades. But as, besides ascertaining the extent and situationof these islands, we added to them several new ones which were not knownbefore, and explored the whole, I think we have obtained a right to namethem; and shall in future distinguish them by the name of the New Hebrides. They are situated between the latitude of 14° 29' and 20° 4' S. , andbetween 166° 41' and 170° 21' E. Longitude, and extend an hundred andtwenty-five leagues in the direction of N. N. W. 1/2 W. And S. S. E. 1/2 E. 

The most northern island is that called by M. De Bougainville, Peak of theEtoile; it is situated, according to his account, in latitude, 14° 29', longitude 168° 9'; and N. By W. , eight leagues from Aurora. 

The next island, which lies farthest north, is that of Tierra del EspirituSanto. It is the most western and largest of all the Hebrides, beingtwenty-two leagues long, in the direction of N. N. W. 1/2 W. And S. S. E. 1/2E. , twelve in breadth, and sixty in circuit. We have obtained the truefigure of this island very accurately. The land of it, especially the westside, is exceedingly high and mountainous; and, in many places the hillsrise directly from the sea. Except the cliffs and beaches, every other partis covered with wood, or laid out in plantations. Besides the bay of StPhilip and St Jago, the isles which lie along the south and east coast, cannot, in my opinion, fail of forming some good bays or harbours. 

The next considerable island is that of Mallicollo. To the S. E. It extendsN. W. And S. E. , and is eighteen leagues long in that direction. Its greatestbreadth, which is at the S. E, end, is eight leagues. The N. W. End is two-thirds this breadth, and near the middle, one-third. This contraction isoccasioned by a wide and pretty deep bay on the S. W. Side. To judge of thisisland from what we saw of it, it must be very fertile and well inhabited. The land on the sea-coast is rather low, and lies with a gentle slope fromthe hills which are in the middle of the island. Two-thirds of the N. E. Coast was only seen at a great distance; therefore the delineations of itcan have no pretensions to accuracy; but the other parts, I apprehend, arewithout any material errors. 

St Bartholomew lies between the S. E. End of Tierra del Espiritu Santo, andthe north end of Mallicollo; and the distance between it and the latter iseight miles. This is the passage through which M. De Bougainville went; andthe middle of it is in latitude 15° 48'. 

The Isle of Lepers lies between Espiritu Santo and Aurora Island, eightleagues from the former, and three from the latter, in latitude 15° 22', and nearly under the same meridian as the S. E. . End of Mallicollo. It is ofan egg-like figure, very high, and eighteen or twenty leagues in circuit. Its limits were determined by several bearings; but the lines of the shorewere traced out by guess, except the N. E. Part where there is anchoragehalf a mile from the land. 

Aurora, Whitsuntide, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbour Apee, Threehills, andSandwich Islands, lie all nearly under the meridian of 167° 29' or 30' E. , extending from the latitude of 14° 51' 30", to 17° 53' 30". 

The island of Aurora lies N. By W. And S. By E. , and is eleven leagues longin that direction; but I believe, it hardly any where exceeds two or twoand a half in breadth. It hath a good height, its surface hilly, and everywhere covered with wood, except where the natives have their dwellings andplantations. 

Whitsuntide Isle, which is one league and a half to the south of Aurora, isof the same length, and lies in the direction of north and south, but issomething broader than Aurora Island. It is considerably high, and clothedwith wood, except such parts as seemed to be cultivated, which were prettynumerous. 

From the south end of Whitsuntide Island to the north side of Ambrym is twoleagues and a half. This is about seventeen leagues in circuit; its shoresare rather low, but the land rises with an unequal ascent to a tolerablyhigh mountain in the middle of the island, from which ascended greatcolumns of smoke; but we were not able to determine whether this wasoccasioned by a volcano or not. That it is fertile and well inhabited, seems probable from the quantities of smoke which we saw rise out of thewoods, in such parts of the island as came within the compass of our sight;for it must be observed, that we did not see the whole of it. 

We saw still much less of Paoom and its neighbourhood. I can say no more ofthis island than that it towers up to a great height in the form of a roundhay-stack; and the extent of it, and of the adjoining isle (if there aretwo), cannot exceed three or four leagues in any direction; for thedistance between Ambrym and Apee is hardly five; and they lie in thisspace, and east from Port Sandwich, distant about seven or eight leagues. 

The island of Apee is not less than twenty leagues in circuit; its longestdirection is about eight leagues N. W. And S. E. ; it is of considerableheight; and hath a hilly surface diversified with woods and lawns, the westand south parts especially; for the others we did not see. 

Shepherd's Isles are a group of small ones of unequal size, extending offfrom the S. E. Point of Apee about five leagues in the direction of S. E. 

The island Threehills lies south four leagues from the coast of Apee, andS. E. 1/2 S. , distant seventeen leagues from Port Sandwich; to this, andwhat hath been already said of it, I shall only add, that W. By N. , fivemiles from the west point, is a reef of rocks on which the sea continuallybreaks. 

Nine leagues, in the direction of south, from Threehills, lies SandwichIsland. Twohills, the Monument, and Montagu Islands, lie to the east ofthis line, and Hinchinbrook to the west, as also two or three small isleswhich lie between it and Sandwich Island, to which they are connected bybreakers. 

Sandwich Island is twenty-five leagues in circuit; its greatest extent isten leagues; and it lies in the direction of N. W. By W. And S. E. By E. TheN. W. Coast of this island we only viewed at a distance; therefore our chartof this part may be faulty so far as it regards the line of the coast, butno farther. The distance from the south end of Mallicollo to the N. W. Endof Sandwich Island, is twenty-two leagues in the direction of S. S E. 1/2 E. 

In the same direction lie Erromango, Tanna, and Annatom. The first iseighteen leagues from Sandwich Island, and is twenty-four or twenty-fiveleagues in circuit. The middle of it lies in the latitude of 18° 54', longitude 169° 19' E. , and it is of a good height, as may be gathered fromthe distance we were off when we first saw it. 

Tanna lies six leagues from the south side of Erromango, extending S. E. ByS. And N. W. By N. , about eight leagues long in that direction, and everywhere about three or four leagues broad. 

The isle of Immer lies in the direction of N. By E. 1/2 E. , four leaguesfrom Port Resolution in Tanna; and the island of Erronan or Footoona East, in the same direction, distant eleven leagues. This, which is the mosteastern island of all the Hebrides, did not appear to be above five leaguesin circuit, but is of a considerable height and flat at top. On the N. E. Side is a little peak seemingly disjointed from the isle; but we thought itwas connected by low land. Annatom, which is the southernmost island, issituated in the latitude of 20° 3', longitude 170° 4', and S. 30° E. , eleven or twelve leagues from Port Resolution. It is of a good height, withan hilly surface; and more I must not say of it. [7]

Here follow the lunar observations by Mr Wales, for ascertaining thelongitude of these islands, reduced by the watch to Port Sandwich inMallicollo, and Port Resolution in Tanna. 

Port Sandwich, ( Mean of 10 sets of ob. Before 167° 56' 33" 1/4 ) E. ( 2 ditto, at 168 2 37 1/2 ) long ( 20 ditto, after 167 52 57 ) ( ---------------- ( Mean of those means, 167 57 22 3/4

Port Resolution, ( Mean of 20 sets of ob. Before 169 37 35 ) E. ( 5 ditto, at 169 48 48 ) long ( 20 ditto, after 169 47 22 1/2 ) ( ---------------- ( Mean of these means, 169 44 33

It is necessary to observe, that each set of observations, consisting ofbetween six and ten observed distances of the sun and moon, or moon andstars, the whole number amounts to several hundreds; and these have beenreduced by means of the watch to all the islands; so that the longitude ofeach is as well ascertained as that of the two ports above-mentioned. As aproof of this I shall only observe, that the longitude of the two ports, aspointed out by the watch and by the observations, did not differ two miles. This also shews what degree of accuracy these observations are capable of, when multiplied to a considerable number, made with different instruments, and with the sun and stars, or both sides of the moon. By this last method, the errors which may be either in the instruments or lunar tables, destroyone another, and likewise those which may arise from the observer himself;for some men may observe closer than others. If we consider the number ofobservations that may be obtained in the course of a month (if the weatheris favourable, ) we shall perhaps find this method of finding the longitudeof places as accurate as most others; at least it is the most easy, andattended with the least expence to the observer. Every ship that goes toforeign parts is, or maybe, supplied with a sufficient number of quadrantsat a small expence; I mean good ones, proper for making these observations. For the difference of the price between a good and a bad one, I apprehend, can never be an object with an officer. The most expensive article, andwhat is in some measure necessary in order to arrive at the utmostaccuracy, is a good watch; but for common use, and where that strictaccuracy is not required, this may be dispensed with. I have observedbefore, in this journal, that this method of finding the longitude is notso difficult but that any man, with proper application, and a littlepractice, may soon learn to make these observations as well as theastronomers themselves. I have seldom known any material difference betweenthe observations made by Mr Wales, and those made by the officers at thesame time. 

In observing the variation of the magnetic needle, we found, as usual, ourcompasses differ among themselves, sometimes near 2°; the same compass too, would sometimes make nearly this difference in the variation on differentdays, and even between the morning and evening of the same day, when ourchange of situation has been but very little. By the mean of theobservations which I made about Erromango; and the S. E. Part of theseislands, the variation of the compass was 10° 5' 48" E. ; and the mean ofthose made about Tierra del Espiritu Santo, gave 10° 5' 30" E. This isconsiderably more than Mr Wales found it to be at Tanna. I cannot say whatmight occasion this difference in the variation observed at sea and onshore, unless it be influenced by the land; for I must give the preferenceto that found at sea, as it is agreeable to what we observed before we madethe islands, and after we left them. 

 [1] The word Survey is not here to be understood in its literal sense. Surveying a place, according to my idea, is taking a geometrical plan of it, in which every place is to have its true situation, which cannot be done in a work of this nature. 

 [2] Mr G. F. Says that the aspect of the southern shore of Sandwich Island was very beautiful, and that its forests seemed more rich and copious than had been observed to the northward. According to him too, the small islands which formed the harbour were of inconsiderable height, but finely wooded with the most tufted trees. --E. 

 [3] "Mallicollo surprised us again with the beauty and shagginess of its forests, from whence vast numbers of smokes ascended, sufficient to prove, that a great part of them was inhabited. The land about the bay which opened up to our view, was to all appearance extremely populous and fertile. Two small islands were situated in this bay, and we feasted our eyes on the richness and luxuriance of the prospect, when the brightest tints of verdure were properly spread. "--G. F. 

 [4] "Beyond the point which included the bay to the north-west, the country lost something of its exuberant fertility, and was interspersed with barren spots, though we saw smokes and habitations on the highest ridges: And at night the mountains were illuminated in different places, by several lines of fire, some of which appeared to extend at least half-a-mile in length. The land, which forms the north side of Bougainville's passage, appeared very extensive, high and mountainous, and a number of small islands lay along its southern coast, which were of a very moderate height, and covered with the finest forests. The continual fair weather which attended this part of our navigation, made all these beautiful landscapes appear to the greatest advantage; and the pleasure of contemplating a great variety of rich sceneries, made us some amends for the wretchedness of our diet, which at present consisted of no other than the ship's provisions. "--G. F. 

 [5] Mr G. F. Says some of them had bunches of feathers on their heads, others a white shell tied on the forehead, and one a sago leaf rolled round his head forming a kind of cap. They came near enough to the vessel to receive presents, and shewed a peculiar partiality for nails, which implied some acquaintance with their value and use. It was impossible to hold conversation with them by any known language, but it would seem, that their numerals bore strong resemblance to those of the Friendly Islands, or were indeed the same. There is reason to think then, as Captain Cook afterwards notices, that these are the same sort of people, if not the same individuals, that were seen on the following day. --E. 

 [6] "Quiros had great reason to extol the beauty and fertility of this country; it is indeed, to appearance, one of the finest in the world. Its riches in vegetable productions would doubtless have afforded the botanist an ample harvest of new plants, as, next to New Zealand, it was the largest island we had hitherto seen, and had the advantage of having never been examined by other naturalists. But the study of nature was only the secondary object in this voyage, which, contrary to its original intent, was so contrived in the execution as to produce little more than a new track on the chart of the southern hemisphere. We were therefore obliged to look upon those moments, as peculiarly fortunate, when the urgent wants of the crew, and the interest of the sciences, happened to coincide. "--G. F. 

 This language is by no means to be imputed to any thing like disrespect towards Captain Cook, who seems to have stood very high in the author's estimation; it is, in fact, the natural expression of disappointment at the unexpected and unintended failure of a favourite speculation, without any reference to the moral agents by whom it had been immediately occasioned. It does, however, seem to imply censure of those, who, in planning the expedition, were far more anxious to make discoveries, than to extend their importance by the labours of the naturalist. Considering then from whom it comes, a liberal interpreter would concede a little allowance to its poignancy of complaint. Men very naturally attach superior importance to studies which have long and almost exclusively engrossed their own attention, and are exceedingly apt to ascribe to ignorance, or something still more dishonourable, that indifference to them which those who are in power seem to manifest. Much self-denial, as well as much liberal observation, is required, to overcome such evil surmisings, and to induce a candid construction of the conduct that thwarts our own sanguine prospects. These perhaps are rarely to be met with in young men, who, in general, are intolerant in proportion to the really honest industry they exercise in particular pursuits, and their consciousness of the disinterestedness by which they are actuated. But time accomplishes two great things for those who are capable of improvement; it demonstrates the erroneousness of many of the judgments they had formed of the human character and conduct, and it discloses within their own breasts, several very disquieting principles and mortifying drawbacks, which necessitate them to lower the estimate they had made of their own excellence. Where, from uncommon circumstances, this tuition has never been applied, we shall find at forty, the same petulance and conceit which characterised the clever, it may be, but certainly foolish youth of eighteen; and some persons there are, who, not quite ignorant of the process, are so much enraged at it, that they continue through life to display the same offensive appearances, out of mere spite, and because they have not the honesty to acknowledge that they ever stood in need of instruction. G. F. Appears to have been in the first-mentioned predicament; and probably his early death occurred in the midst of a salutary though severe correction. --E. 

 [7] "This group of islands, which we had now cursorily examined in the space of forty-six days, seems to be well worth the attention of future navigators, especially if they should ever be sent out upon the liberal plan of making discoveries in all the various branches of science. I will not pretend to say that they would find great riches of silver and pearls, which Quiros was forced to speak of, in order to engage an interested, avaricious court, to support his great and spirited undertakings. These incitements are not necessary now-a-days, when several monarchs in Europe have convinced the world that they can institute voyages of discovery, with no other view than the increase of human knowledge, and the improvement of man-kind. The sums which some of their predecessors have lavished on parasites, have been found sufficient to make an immense progress, nay to produce a new and important revolution in the state of the sciences, which have ever required a trifling expence to triumph over the numberless obstacles that ignorance, envy, or superstition opposed against them. "--G. F. 

 This gentleman we see, is capable of courtesy. The terms in which it is expressed, however, are sufficiently guarded against admitting too great a latitude of application, and consequently, are not particularly liable to abuse--the less so indeed, as it is likely, that those who might most covet his commendation, would be found best entitled to it. The recent distractions of Europe, however, have not enhanced the claims of its monarchs to the honour of patronising such important undertakings. Some of them, it is probable, are content with the common but assuredly not less expensive ambition of having shared, though but by proxy, in a more splendid speculation for fame: And the glory so acquired, they may chance to think, is ample enough, without farther concern, to gild their names throughout all succeeding generations. If so, unfortunately, there is an end of such labours of discovery as are here recommended; and the islands in question must remain unexplored, till the increase of human knowledge, and the improvement of mankind, are thought practicable without bloodshed, and are felt to be cheaply purchased by the sacrifice of personal ostentation and public extravagance. Let us hope that the early example of the truly noble Alexander, in comparatively untoward circumstances of the world, will be emulated by older sovereigns, who cannot but be sensible, notwithstanding their catholic affection, that no small exercise of philanthropy and the love of science is required, to give them any thing like an equal chance for immortality. --E. 

SECTION VIII. 

_An Account of the Discovery of New Caledonia, and the Incidents thathappened while the Ship lay in Balade. _

At sun-rise on the 1st of September, after having stood to S. W. All night, no more land was to be seen. The wind remaining in the S. E. Quarter, wecontinued to stand to S. W. On the 2d, at five o'clock, p. M. , being in thelatitude 18° 22', longitude 165° 26', the variation was 10° 50' E. ; and atthe same hour on the 3d, it was 10° 51', latitude at that time 19° 14', longitude 165° E. The next morning, in the latitude of 19° 49' longitude164° 53", the amplitude gave 10° 21', and the azimuths 10° 7' E. At eighto'clock, as we were steering to the south, land was discovered bearingS. S. W. , and at noon it extended from S. S. E. To W. By S. , distant about sixleagues. We continued to steer for it with a light breeze at east, tillfive in the evening, when we were stopped by a calm. At this time we werethree leagues from the land, which extended from S. E. By S. To W. By N. , round by the S. W. Some openings appeared in the west, so that we could nottell whether it was one connected land or a group of islands. To the S. E. The coast seemed to terminate in a high promontory, which I named CapeColnett, after one of my midshipmen who first discovered this land. Breakers were seen about half-way between us and the shore; and, behindthem, two or three canoes under sail, standing out to sea, as if theirdesign had been to come off to us; but a little before sun-set they strucktheir sails, and we saw them no more. After a few hours calm, we got abreeze at S. E. , and spent the night standing off and on. [1]

On the 5th, at sun-rise, the horizon being clear, we could see the coastextend to the S. E. Of Cape Colnett, and round by the S. W. To N. W. By W. Some gaps or openings were yet to be seen to the west; and a reef, orbreakers, seemed to lie all along the coast, connected with those wediscovered the preceding night. It was a matter of indifference to me, whether we plied up the coast to the S. E. , or bore down to N. W. I chose thelatter; and after running two leagues down the outside of the reef (forsuch it proved) we came before an opening that had the appearance of a goodchannel, through which we might go in for the land. I wanted to get at it, not only to visit it, but also to have an opportunity to observe an eclipseof the sun which was soon to happen. With this view we brought-to, hoistedout two armed boats, and sent them to sound the channel; ten or twelvelarge sailing canoes being then near us. We had observed them coming offfrom the shore, all the morning, from different parts; and some were lyingon the reef, fishing, as we supposed. As soon as they all got together, they came down to us in a body, and were pretty near when we were hoistingout our boats, which probably gave them some alarm; for, without stopping, they hauled in for the reef, and our boats followed them. We now saw thatwhat we had taken for openings in the coast was low land, and that it wasall connected, except the western extremity, which was an island known bythe name of Balabea, as we afterwards learnt. 

The boats having made a signal for a channel, and one of them being placedon the point of the reef on the weather side of it, we stood in with theship, and took up the other boat in our way, when the officer informed me, that where we were to pass, was sixteen and fourteen fathoms water, a finesandy bottom, and that having put alongside two canoes, he found the peoplevery obliging and civil. [2] They gave him some fish; and, in return, hepresented them with medals, &c. In one was a stout robust young man, whom, they understood to be a chief. After getting within the reef, we hauled upS. 1/2 E. , for a small low sandy isle that we observed lying under theshore, being followed by all the canoes. Our sounding in standing in, wasfrom fifteen to twelve fathoms (a pretty even fine sandy bottom, ) for abouttwo miles; then we had six, five, and four fathoms. This was on the tail ofa shoal which lies a little without the small isle to the N. E. Being overit, we found seven and eight fathoms water, which shallowed gradually as weapproached the shore, to three fathoms, when we tacked and stood off alittle, and then anchored in five fathoms, the bottom a fine sand mixedwith mud. The little sandy isle bore E. By S. , three-quarters of a miledistant; and we were one mile from the shore of the main, which extendedfrom S. E. By E. , round to the south, to W. N. W. The island of Balabea boreN. W. By N. , and the channel, through which we came, north, four milesdistant. In this situation we were extremely well sheltered from thereigning winds, by the sandy isle and its shoals, and by the shoal withoutthem. 

We had hardly got to an anchor, before we were surrounded by a great numberof the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom werewithout any sort of weapons. At first they were shy in coming near theship; but in a short time we prevailed on the people in one boat to getclose enough to receive some presents. These we lowered down to them by arope, to which, in return, they tied two fish that stunk intolerably, asdid those they gave us in the morning. These mutual exchanges bringing on akind of confidence, two ventured on board the ship; and presently after, she was filled with them, and we had the company of several at dinner inthe cabin. Our pease-soup, salt-beef and pork, they had no curiosity totaste; but they eat of some yams, which we happened to have yet left, calling them _Oobee_. This name is not unlike _Oofee_, as theyare called at most of the islands, except Mallicollo; nevertheless, wefound these people spoke a language new to us. Like all the nations we hadlately seen, the men were almost naked; having hardly any other coveringbut such a wrapper as is used at Mallicollo. They were curious in examiningevery part of the ship, which they viewed with uncommon attention. They hadnot the least knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats, and had not even aname for one of them. They seemed fond of large spike-nails, and pieces ofred cloth, or indeed of any other colour, but red was their favourite. 

After dinner, I went on shore with two armed boats, having with us one ofthe natives who had attached himself to me. We landed on a sandy beachbefore a vast number of people, who had got together with no other intentthan to see us; for many of them had not a stick in their hands;consequently we were received with great courtesy, and with the surprisenatural for people to express, at seeing men and things so new to them aswe must be. I made presents to all those my friend pointed out, who wereeither old men, or such as seemed to be of some note; but he took not theleast notice of some women who stood behind the crowd, folding my hand whenI was going to give them some beads and medals. Here we found the samechief, who had been seen in one of the canoes in the morning. His name, wenow learnt, was Teabooma; and we had not been on shore above ten minutes, before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed by every individualpresent, he made a short speech; and soon after another chief having calledfor silence, made a speech also. It was pleasing to see with what attentionthey were heard. Their speeches were composed of short sentences; to eachof which two or three old men answered, by nodding their heads, and givinga kind of grunt, significant, as I thought, of approbation. It wasimpossible for us to know the purport of these speeches; but we had reasonto think they were favourable to us, on whose account they doubtless weremade. 

I kept my eyes fixed on the people all the time, and saw nothing to induceme to think otherwise. While we were with them, having enquired, by signs, for fresh water, some pointed to the east and others to the west. My friendundertook to conduct us to it, and embarked with us for that purpose. Werowed about two miles up the coast to the east, where the shore was mostlycovered with mangrove-trees; and entering amongst them, by a narrow creekor river, which brought us to a little straggling village, above all themangroves, there we landed and were shewn fresh water. The ground near thisvillage was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roots, and watered by little rills, conducted by art from the main stream, whose source was in the hills. Herewere some cocoa-nut trees, which did not seem burdened with fruit. We heardthe crowing of cocks, but saw none. Some roots were baking on a fire in anearthen jar, which would have held six or eight gallons; nor did we doubtits being their own manufacture. As we proceeded up the creek, Mr Forsterhaving shot a duck flying over our heads, which was the first use thesepeople saw made of our fire-arms, my friend begged to have it; and when helanded, told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day being farspent, and the tide not permitting us to stay longer in the creek, we tookleave of the people and got on board a little after sun-set. [3] From thislittle excursion, I found that we were to expect nothing from these peoplebut the privilege of visiting their country undisturbed. For it was easy tosee they had little else than good-nature to bestow. In this they exceededall the nations we had yet met with; and, although it did not satisfy thedemands of nature, it at once pleased and left our minds at ease. [4]

Next morning we were visited by some hundreds of the natives; some comingin canoes, and others swimming off; so that, before ten o'clock, our decks, and all other parts of the ship, were quite full with them. My friend, whowas of the number, brought me a few roots, but all the others came empty inrespect to eatables. Some few had with them their arms, such as clubs anddarts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &c. Afterbreakfast, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill with two armed boats to look forfresh water; for what we found the day before was by no means convenientfor us to get on board. At the same time Mr Wales, accompanied bylieutenant Clerke, went to the little isle to make preparations forobserving the eclipse of the sun, which was to be in the afternoon. MrPickersgill soon returning, informed me that he had found a stream of freshwater, pretty convenient to come at. I therefore ordered the launch to behoisted out to complete our water, and then went to the isle to assist inthe observation. [5]

About one p. M. , the eclipse came on. Clouds interposed, and we lost thefirst contact, but were more fortunate in the end, which was observed asfollows:

By Mr Wales with Dollond's 3 1/2 foot achromatic refractor, at 3h 28' 39" 1/4 \By Mr Clerke with Bird's 2 feet |Appa- reflector, at 3 28 52 1/4 |rentAnd by me with an 18 inch reflector |time. Made by Watkins, 3 28 53 1/4 /Latitude of the isle or place of observation, 20° 17' 39" S. Longitude per distance of the sun and moon, and moon and stars, 48 sets, 164° 41' 21" East. Ditto per watch 163 58 0

Mr Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley's quadrant, a methodnever before thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose of amicrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition to theuse of this most valuable instrument. After all was over, we returned onboard, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after slipped out of theship without my knowledge, and by that means lost the present I had made upfor him. 

In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the headof a little creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It wasnecessary to have a small boat in the creek to convey the casks from and tothe beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the launch; asonly a small boat could enter the creek, and that only at high water. Excellent wood for fuel was here far more convenient than water, but thiswas an article we did not want. About seven o'clock this evening, diedSimon Monk, our butcher, a man much esteemed in the ship; his death beingoccasioned by a fall down the fore-hatch-way the preceding night. 

Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a guard, under thecommand of an officer, were sent ashore; and soon after a party of us wentto take a view of the country. As soon as we landed we made known ourdesign to the natives, and two of them undertaking to be our guides, conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route, we metseveral people, most or whom turned back with us; so that at last our trainwas numerous. Some we met who wanted us to return; but we paid no regard totheir signs, nor did they seem uneasy when we proceeded. At length wereached the summit of one of the hills, from which we saw the sea in twoplaces, between some advanced hills, on the opposite or S. W. Side of theland. This was an useful discovery, as it enabled us to judge of thebreadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed ten leagues. 

Between those advanced hills, and the ridge we were upon, was a largevalley, through which ran a serpentine river. On the banks of this wereseveral plantations, and some villages, whose inhabitants we had met on theroad, and found more on the top of the hill gazing at the ship, as might besupposed. The plain, or flat of land, which lies along the shore we wereupon, appeared from the hills to great advantage; the winding streams whichran through out, the plantations, the little straggling villages, thevariety in the woods, and the shoals on the coast, so variegating thescene, that the whole might afford a picture for romance. Indeed, if itwere not for those fertile spots on the plains, and some few on the sidesof the mountains, the whole country might be called a dreary waste. Themountains, and other high places, are, for the most part, incapable ofcultivation, consisting chiefly of rocks, many of which are full ofmundicks. The little soil that is upon them is scorched and burnt up withthe sun; it is, nevertheless, coated with coarse grass and other plants, and here and there trees and shrubs. The country, in general, bore greatresemblance to some parts of New Holland under the same parallel oflatitude, several of its natural productions seeming to be the same, andthe woods being without underwood, as in that country. The reefs on thecoast and several other similarities, were obvious to every one who hadseen both countries. We observed all the N. E. Coast to be covered withshoals and breakers, extending to the northward, beyond the Isle ofBalabea, till they were lost in the horizon. Having made theseobservations, and our guides not chusing to go farther, we descended themountains by a road different from that by which we ascended. This broughtus down through some of their plantations in the plains, which I observedwere laid out with great judgment, and cultivated with much labour. Some ofthem were lying in fallow, some seemingly lately laid down, and others oflonger date, pieces of which they were again beginning to dig up. The firstthing I observed they did, was to set fire to the grass, &c. Which hadover-run the surface. Recruiting the land by letting it lie some yearsuntouched, is observed by all the nations in this sea; but they seem tohave no notion of manuring it, at least I have no where seen it done. Ourexcursion was finished by noon, when we returned on board to dinner; andone of our guides having left us, we brought the other with us, whosefidelity was rewarded at a small expence. 

In the afternoon I made a little excursion along-shore to the westward, incompany with Mr Wales. Besides making observations on such things as wemet, we got the names of several places, which I then thought were islands;but upon farther enquiry, I found they were districts upon the same land. This afternoon a fish being struck by one of the natives near the watering-place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me after my return on board. 

It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish, with a large long uglyhead. Having no suspicion of its being of a poisonous nature, we ordered itto be dressed for supper; but, very luckily, the operation of drawing anddescribing took up so much time, that it was too late, so that only theliver and row were dressed, of which the two Mr Forsters and myself did buttaste. About three o'clock in the morning, we found ourselves seized withan extraordinary weakness and numbness all over our limbs. I had almostlost the sense of feeling; nor could I distinguish between light and heavybodies, of such as I had strength to move; a quart-pot, full of water, anda feather, being the same in my hand. We each of us took an emetic, andafter that a sweat, which gave us much relief. In the morning, one of thepigs, which had eaten the entrails, was found dead. When the natives cameon board and saw the fish hanging up, they immediately gave us tounderstand it was not wholesome food, and expressed the utmost abhorrenceof it; though no one was observed to do this when the fish was to be sold, or even after it was purchased. 

On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on shore as usual. In theafternoon, I received a message from the officer, acquainting me thatTeabooma the chief was come with a present consisting of a few yams andsugar-canes. In return, I sent him, amongst other articles, a dog and abitch, both young, but nearly full grown. The dog was red and white, butthe bitch was all red, or the colour of an English fox. I mention this, because they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that country. When the officer returned on board in the evening, he informed me that thechief came, attended by about twenty men, so that it looked like a visit ofceremony. It was some time before he would believe the dog and bitch wereintended for him; but as soon as he was convinced, he seemed lost in anexcess of joy, and sent them away immediately. 

Next morning early, I dispatched Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr Gilbert withthe launch and cutter to explore the coast to the west; judging this wouldbe better effected in the boats than in the ship, as the reef would forcethe latter several leagues from land. After breakfast, a party of men wassent on shore, to make brooms; but myself and the two Mr Forsters wereconfined on board, though much better, a good sweat having had an happyeffect. In the afternoon a man was seen, both ashore and alongside theship, said to be as white as an European. From the account I had of him(for I did not see him, ) his whiteness did not proceed from hereditarydescent, but from chance or some disease; and such have been seen atOtaheite and the Society Isles. [6] A fresh easterly wind, and the shiplying a mile from the shore, did not hinder those good-natured people fromswimming off to us in shoals of twenty or thirty, and returning the sameway. 

On the 10th, a party was on shore as usual; and Mr Forster so wellrecovered as to go out botanizing. 

In the evening of the 11th, the boats returned, when I was informed of thefollowing circumstances. From an elevation which they reached the morningthey set out, they had a view of the coast. Mr Gilbert was of opinion thatthey saw the termination of it to the west, but Mr Pickersgill thought not;though both agreed that there was no passage for the ship that way. Fromthis place, accompanied by two of the natives, they went to Balabea, whichthey did not reach till after sun-set, and left again next morning beforesun-rise; consequently this was a fruitless expedition, and the twofollowing days were spent in getting up to the ship. As they went down tothe isle, they saw abundance of turtle; but the violence of the wind andsea made it impossible to strike any. The cutter was near being lost, bysuddenly filling with water, which obliged them to throw several thingsoverboard, before they could free her, and stop the leak she had sprung. From a fishing canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got asmuch fish as they could eat; and they were received by Teabi, the chief ofthe isle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to see them, withgreat courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, our people drew a lineon the ground, and gave the others to understand they were not to comewithin it. This restriction they observed, and one of them, soon after, turned to his own advantage. For happening to have a few cocoa-nuts, whichone of our people wanted to buy, and he was unwilling to part with, hewalked off, and was followed by the man who wanted them. On seeing this, hesat down on the sand, made a circle round him, as he had seen our peopledo, and signified that the other was not to come within it; which wasaccordingly observed. As this story was well attested, I thought it notunworthy of a place in this journal. [7]

Early in the morning of the 12th, I ordered the carpenter to work, torepair the cutter, and the water to be re-placed, which we had expended thethree preceding days. As Tea Booma the chief had not been seen since he gotthe dogs, and I wanted to lay a foundation for stocking the country withhogs also, I took a young boar and a sow with me in the boat, and went upto the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give them to him. 

But when we arrived there, we were told that he lived at some distance, andthat they would send for him. Whether they did or no I cannot say; but henot coming, I resolved to give them to the first man of note I met with. The guide we had to the hills happening to be there, I made him understandthat I intended to leave the two pigs on shore, and ordered them out of theboat for that purpose. I offered them to a grave old man, thinking he was aproper person to entrust them with; but he shook his head, and he and allpresent, made signs to take them into the boat again. When they saw I didnot comply, they seemed to consult with one another what was to be done;and then our guide told me to carry them to the Alekee (chief). AccordinglyI ordered them to be taken up, and we were conducted by him to a house, wherein were seated, in a circle, eight or ten middle-aged persons. To themI and my pigs being introduced, with great courtesy they desired me to sitdown; and then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs, explaining to them how many young ones the female would have at one time, and how soon these would multiply to some hundreds. My only motive was toenhance their value, that they might take the more care of them; and I hadreason to think I in some measure succeeded. In the mean time, two menhaving left the company, soon returned with six yams, which were presentedto me; and then I took my leave and went on board. 

I have already observed, that here was a little village; I now found itmuch larger than I expected; and about it, a good deal of cultivated land, regularly laid out, planted and planting with taro or eddy root, yams, sugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations were prettily watered bylittle rills, continually supplied from the main channel at the foot of themountains, from whence these streams were conducted in artful meanders. They have two methods of planting these roots, some are in square or oblongpatches, which lie perfectly horizontal, and sink below the common level ofthe adjacent land, so that they can let in on them as much water as theythink necessary. I have generally seen them covered two or three inchesdeep; but I do not know that this is always necessary. Others are plantedin ridges about three or four feet broad, and two, or two and a half high. On the middle or top of the ridge, is a narrow gutter, in and along whichis conveyed, as above described, a little rill that waters the roots, planted in the ridge on each side of it; and these plantations are sojudiciously laid out, that the same stream waters several ridges. Theseridges are sometimes the divisions to the horizontal plantations; and whenthis method is used, which is for the most part observed where a pathway, or something of that sort, is requisite, not an inch of ground is lost. Perhaps there may be some difference in the roots, which may make these twomethods of raising them necessary. Some are better tasted than others, andthey are not all of a colour; but be this as it may, they are verywholesome food, and the tops make good greens, and are eaten as such by thenatives. On these plantations men, women, and children were employed. 

In the afternoon I went on shore, and, on a large tree, which stood closeto the shore, near the watering-place, had an inscription cut, settingforth the ship's name, date, &c. As a testimony of our being the firstdiscoverers of this country, as I had done at all others, at which we hadtouched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, we took leaveof our friends, and returned on board; when I ordered all the boats to behoisted in, in order to be ready to put to sea in the morning. 

 [1] "The land, when discovered, appeared to be very high, and its distance from us was about eight leagues, being seen through a haze, which made it appear farther off than it really was. M. De Bougainville takes notice of meeting with a part of the sea which was entirely smooth, and where several pieces of wood and fruits floated past his ship. This was nearly to the N. W. Of the land which we now discovered, and which, as an able and intelligent navigator, he had conjectured to be in that direction. "--G. F. 

 [2] A very striking proof of this is mentioned by Mr G. F. These people, he says, laid some of their canoes on both sides of the channel, in a place where it was narrow, and then beckoned to the boats to keep in the middle between them. According to this gentleman, the face of the country had a barren appearance, and was covered with a sort of whitish grass, and trees somewhat resembling willows were thinly spread on the mountains. --E. 

 [3] Mr. G. F. Who shot the duck, tells us, that the natives expressed some admiration, but not the smallest fear, at the report and effects of the firearms. --E. 

 [4] "The whole plantation we saw, had a very scanty appearance, and seemed to be insufficient to afford nourishment to the inhabitants throughout the year. We entirely missed that variety of fruits, which we had hitherto met with in the tropical islands, and naturally recollected the poverty of the inhabitants of Easter Island, above whom it appeared, that the people before us enjoyed but few advantages. Towards the hills, of which the first risings were at the distance of about two miles, the country looked extremely dreary; here and there, indeed, we saw a few trees, and small uncultivated spots, but they appeared to be lost on the great extent of barren and unprofitable country, which resembled our moors more than any thing else. "--G. F. 

 [5] Mr G. F. , who seems to have accompanied the watering-party, gives the following account of the appearance of the country. --"We walked along the beach which was sandy, and bounded by a fine wild shrubbery; we soon came to a hut, from whence a number of plantations extended to the back of the bank and wild wood. We rambled into the country, and came to a canal that watered this plantation, but of which the water was very brackish. From hence, however, we ran immediately to an eminence near us, where the nature of the country appeared evidently changed. The plain was covered with a thin stratum of vegetable soil, which being very poor, was manured in the plantations with broken shells and corals. The eminence, on the contrary, was a rocky ground, consisting of large pieces of quartz and glimmer (_mica_). Here grew a quantity of dry grasses, about two or three feet high, very thin in most places; and at the distance of fifteen or twenty yards asunder, we saw large trees black at the root, but with a bark perfectly whole and loose, and having narrow long leaves like our willows. They were of the sort which Linné calls _melaleuca leucadendra_, and Rumphius _arbor alba_, who says that the natives of the Moluccas make the oil of _cayputi_, from the leaves, which are indeed extremely fragrant and aromatic. Not the least shrub was to be seen on this eminence, and the trees did not intercept the distant prospect. We discerned from hence a line of tufted trees and shrubberies, which extended from the sea- side towards the mountains, and immediately concluded that they stood on the banks of a rivulet. The banks of this were lined with mangroves, beyond which a few other sorts of plants and trees occupied a space of fifteen or twenty feet, which had a layer of vegetable mould, charged with nutritive moisture, and covered with a green bed of grasses, where the eye gladly reposed itself after viewing a painted prospect. The border of shrubberies and wild-trees which lined the sea-shore, was the most advantageous to us as naturalists; here we met with some unknown plants, and saw a great variety of birds of different classes, which were for the greatest part entirely new. But the character of the inhabitants, and their friendly inoffensive behaviour towards us, gave us greater pleasure than all the rest. We found their number very inconsiderable, and their habitations very thinly scattered. They commonly had built two or three houses near each other, under a group of very lofty fig-trees, of which the branches were so closely entwined, that the sky was scarcely visible through the foliage, and the huts were involved in a perpetual cool shade. They had another advantage besides, from this pleasant situation; for numbers of birds continually twittered in the tufted tops of the tree, and hid themselves from the scorching beams of the sun. The wild circle of some species of creepers was very agreeable; and conveyed a sensible pleasure to every one who delighted in this kind of artless harmony. The inhabitants themselves were commonly seated at the foot of these trees, which had this remarkable quality, that they shot long roots from the upper part of the stem, perfectly round, as if they had been made by a turner, into the ground, ten, fifteen, and twenty feet from the tree, and formed a most exact strait line, being extremely elastic, and as tense as a bow-string prepared for action. The bark of these trees seems to be the substance of which they make those little bits of cloth, so remarkable in their dress. "-- G. F. 

 [6] Wafers met with Indians in the Isthmus of Darien of the colour of a white horse. See his Description of the Isthmus, page 134. See also Mr de Paw's Philosophical Enquiries concerning Americans, where several other instances of this remarkable whiteness are mentioned, and the causes of it attempted to be explained. --This note is by Captain Cook. The reader may not have forgotten some remarks on the subject, in a former volume. --E. 

 [7] It is also worth while noticing the following circumstance, which occurred during this excursion. "The appearance of a large beef-bone, which some of our people began to pick towards the conclusion of their supper, interrupted a conversation that was carried on with the natives. They talked very loud and earnestly to each other, looked with great surprise, and some marks of disgust, at our people, and at last went away altogether, expressing by signs that they suspected the strangers of eating human flesh. Our officer endeavoured to free himself and his shipmates from this suspicion; but the want of language was an insurmountable obstacle to his undertaking, even supposing it possible to persuade a set of people, who had never seen a quadruped in their lives. "--G. F. 

 Notwithstanding this appearance of dislike to so horrid a practice, it must not be hastily inferred, that these people are themselves free from the vice which they condemned. On the contrary, one might rather imagine that their so readily conjecturing the circumstance, from what they saw, proceeded from a conviction of their own occasional acquiescence in it; and that their present umbrage arose from apprehension of their own danger in the hands of persons so much more powerful than themselves. But we reserve the subject of cannibalism for another place, where perhaps it will be shewn that those very people are not free from this opprobrium of the savage state. The reader is already aware, that the younger Forster is not to be too strictly relied on as to his accounts of our species in its rude condition, more particularly where it is possible, with some stretch of liberality, to substitute the pleasing dreams of fancy for the disagreeable realities of truth. --E. 

SECTION IX. 

_A Description of the Country and its Inhabitants; their Manners, Customs, and Arts. _

I shall conclude our transactions at this place with some account of thecountry and its inhabitants. They are a strong, robust, active, well-madepeople, courteous and friendly, and not in the least addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other nation in this sea. They arenearly of the same colour as the natives of Tanna, but have betterfeatures, more agreeable countenances, and are a much stouter race; a fewbeing seen who measured six feet four inches. I observed some who had thicklips, flat noses, and full cheeks, and, in some degree, the features andlook of a negro. Two things contributed to the forming of such an idea;first, their rough mop heads, and, secondly, their besmearing their faceswith black pigment. Their hair and beards are, in general, black. Theformer is very much frizzled, so that, at first sight, it appears like thatof a negro. It is, nevertheless, very different, though both coarser andstronger than ours. Some, who wear it long, tie it up on the crown of thehead; others suffer only a large lock to grow on each side, which they tieup in clubs; many others, as well as all the women, wear it cropped short. These rough heads, most probably, want frequent scratching; for whichpurpose they have a most excellent instrument. This is a kind of comb madeof sticks of hard wood, from seven to nine or ten inches long, and aboutthe thickness of knitting-needles. A number of these, seldom exceedingtwenty, but generally fewer, is fastened together at one end, parallel to, and near one-tenth of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are alittle pointed, will spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by whichmeans they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time. Thesecombs or scratchers, for I believe they serve both purposes, they alwayswear in their hair, on one side their head. The people of Tanna have aninstrument of this kind for the same use; but theirs is forked, I think, never exceeding three or four prongs; and sometimes only a small pointedstick. Their beards, which are of the same crisp nature as their hair, are, for the most part, worn short. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet arecommon among the men; as also a swelling of the scrotum. I know not whetherthis is occasioned by disease, or by the mode of applying the wrapperbefore-mentioned, and which they use as at Tanna and Mallicollo. This istheir only covering, and is made generally of the bark of a tree, butsometimes of leaves. The small pieces of cloth, paper, &c. Which they gotfrom us, were commonly applied to this use. We saw coarse garments amongstthem, made of a sort of matting, but they seemed never to wear them, exceptwhen out in their canoes and unemployed. Some had a kind of concave, cylindrical, stiff black cap, which appeared to be a great ornament amongthem, and, we thought, was only worn by men of note or warriors. A largesheet of strong paper, when they got one from us, was generally applied tothis use. 

The women's dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of theplantain-tree, laid over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied roundthe waist. The petticoat is made at least six or eight inches thick, butnot one inch longer than necessary for the use designed. The outerfilaments are dyed black; and, as an additional ornament, the most of themhave a few pearl oyster-shells fixed on the right side. The generalornaments of both sexes are ear-rings of tortoise-shell, necklaces oramulets, made both of shells and stones, and bracelets, made of largeshells, which they wear above the elbow. They have punctures, or marks onthe skin, on several parts of the body; but none, I think, are black, as atthe Eastern Islands. I know not if they have any other design thanornament; and the people of Tanna are marked much in the same manner. [1]

Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I should take them to be arace between the people of Tanna and of the Friendly Isles, or betweenthose of Tanna and the New Zealanders, or all three; their language, insome respects, being a mixture of them all. In their disposition they arelike the natives of the Friendly Isles; but in affability and honesty theyexcel them. 

Notwithstanding their pacific inclination they must sometimes have wars, asthey are well provided with offensive weapons, such as clubs, spears, darts, and slings for throwing stones. The clubs are about two feet and ahalf long, and variously formed; some like a scythe, others like a pick-axe; some have a head like an hawk, and others have round heads, but allare neatly made. Many of their darts and spears are no less neat, andornamented with carvings. The slings are as simple as possible; but theytake some pains to form the stones that they use into a proper shape, whichis something like an egg, supposing both ends to be like the small one. [2]They use a becket, in the same manner as at Tanna, in throwing the dart, which, I believe, is much used in striking fish, &c. In this they seem verydexterous; nor, indeed, do I know that they have any other method ofcatching large fish, for I neither saw hooks nor lines among them. 

It is needless to mention their working-tools, as they are made of the samematerials, and nearly in the same manner, as at the other islands. Theiraxes, indeed, are a little different; some, at least, which may be owing tofancy as much as custom. 

Their houses, or at least most of them, are circular, something like a bee-hive, and full as close and warm. The entrance is by a small door, or longsquare hole, just big enough to admit a man bent double. The side-walls areabout four feet and a half high, but the roof is lofty, and peaked to apoint at the top; above which is a post, or stick of wood, which isgenerally ornamented either with carving or shells, or both. The framing isof small spars, reeds, &c. And both sides and roof are thick and closecovered with thatch, made of coarse long grass. In the inside of the houseare set up posts, to which cross spars are fastened, and platforms made, for the conveniency of laying any thing on. Some houses have two floors, one above the other. The floor is laid with dry grass, and here and theremats are spread, for the principal people to sleep or sit on. In most ofthem we found two fire-places, and commonly a fire burning; and, as therewas no vent for the smoke but by the door, the whole house was both smokyand hot, insomuch that we, who were not used to such an atmosphere, couldhardly endure it a moment. This may be the reason why we found these peopleso chilly when in the open air, and without exercise. We frequently sawthem make little fires any where, and hustle round them, with no other viewthan to warm themselves. Smoke within doors may be a necessary evil, as itprevents the musquitoes from coming in, which are pretty numerous here. Insome respects their habitations are neat; for, besides the ornaments attop, I saw some with carved door-posts. Upon the whole, their houses arebetter calculated for a cold than a hot climate; and as there are nopartitions in them, they can have little privacy. 

They have no great variety of household utensils; the earthen jars beforementioned being the only article worth notice. Each family has at least oneof them, in which they bake their roots, and perhaps their fish, &c. Thefire, by which they cook their victuals, is on the outside of each house, in the open air. There are three or five pointed stones fixed in theground, their pointed ends being about six inches above the surface. Thoseof three stones are only for one jar, those of five stones for two. Thejars do not stand on their bottoms, but lie inclined on their sides. Theuse of these stones is obviously to keep the jars from resting on the fire, in order that it may burn the better. 

They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and the bark of a tree, which I amtold grows also in the West Indies. This they roast, and are almostcontinually chewing. It has a sweetish, insipid taste, and was liked bysome of our people. Water is their only liquor, at least I never saw anyother made use of. 

Plantains and sugar-canes are by no means in plenty. Bread-fruit is veryscarce, and the cocoa-nut trees are small and but thinly planted; andneither one nor the other seems to yield much fruit. 

To judge merely by the numbers of the natives we saw every day, one mightthink the island very populous; but I believe that, at this time, theinhabitants were collected from all parts on our account. Mr Pickersgillobserved, that down the coast, to the west, there were but few people; andwe knew they came daily from the other side of the land, over themountains, to visit us. But although the inhabitants, upon the whole, maynot be numerous, the island is not thinly peopled on the sea-coast, and inthe plains and valleys that are capable of cultivation. It seems to be acountry unable to support many inhabitants. Nature has been less bountifulto it than to any other tropical island we know in this sea. The greatestpart of its surface, or at least what we saw of it, consists of barrenrocky mountains; and the grass, &c. Growing on them, is useless to peoplewho have no cattle. 

The sterility of the country will apologise for the natives notcontributing to the wants of the navigator. The sea may, perhaps, in somemeasure, compensate for the deficiency of the land; for a coast surroundedby reefs and shoals, as this is, cannot fail of being stored with fish. 

I have before observed, that the country bears great resemblance to NewSouth Wales, or New Holland, and that some of its natural productions arethe same. In particular, we found here, the tree which is covered with asoft white ragged bark, easily peeled off, and is, as I have been told, thesame that, in the East Indies, is used for caulking of ships. The wood isvery hard, the leaves are long and narrow, of a pale dead green, and a finearomatic; so that it may properly be said to belong to that continent. Nevertheless, here are several plants, &c. Common to the eastern andnorthern islands, and even a species of the passionflower, which, I amtold, has never before been known to grow wild any where but in America. Our botanists did not complain for want of employment at this place; everyday bringing something new in botany or other branches of natural history. Land-birds, indeed, are not numerous, but several are new. One of these isa kind of crow, at least so we called it, though it is not half so big, andits feathers are tinged with blue. They also have some very beautifulturtle-doves, and other small birds, such as I never saw before. [3]

All our endeavours to get the name of the whole island proved ineffectual. Probably it is too large for them to know by one name. Whenever we madethis enquiry, they always gave us the name of some district or place, whichwe pointed to; and, as before observed, I got the names of several, withthe name of the king or chief of each. Hence I conclude, that the countryis divided into several districts, each governed by a chief; but we knownothing of the extent of his power. Balade was the name of the district wewere at, and Tea Booma the chief. He lived on the other side of the ridgeof hills, so that we had but little of his company, and therefore could notsee much of his power. _Tea_ seems a title prefixed to the names ofall, or most, of their chiefs or great men. My friend honoured me bycalling me _Tea_ Cook. 

They deposit their dead in the ground. I saw none of their burying-places, but several of the gentlemen did. In one, they were informed, lay theremains of a chief who was slain in battle; and his grave, which bore someresemblance to a large mole-hill, was decorated with spears, darts, paddles, &c. All stuck upright in the ground round about it. The canoes, which these people use, are somewhat like those of the Friendly Isles; butthe most heavy clumsy vessels I ever saw. They are what I call doublecanoes, made out of two large trees, hollowed out, having a raised gunnel, about two inches high, and closed at each end with a kind of bulk-head ofthe same height; so that the whole is like a long square trough, aboutthree feet shorter than the body of the canoe; that is, a foot and a halfat each end. Two canoes, thus fitted, are secured to each other, aboutthree feet asunder, by means of cross spars, which project about a footover each side. Over these spars is laid a deck, or very heavy platform, made of plank, and small round spars, on which they have a fire-hearth, andgenerally a fire burning; and they carry a pot or jar to dress theirvictuals in. The space between the two canoes is laid with plank, and therest with spars. On one side of the deck, and close to the edge, is fixed arow of knees, pretty near to each other, the use of which is to keep themasts, yards, &c. From, rolling over-board. They are navigated by one ortwo lateen-sails, extended to a small lateen-yard, the end of which fixesin a notch or hole in the deck. The foot of the sail is extended to a smallboom. The sail is composed of pieces of matting, the ropes are made of thecoarse filaments of the plantain-tree, twisted into cords of the thicknessof a finger; and three or four more such cords, marled together, serve themfor shrouds, &c. I thought they sailed very well; but they are not at allcalculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when theycannot sail, is by sculling, and for this purpose there are holes in theboarded deck or platform. Through these they put the sculls, which are ofsuch a length, that, when the blade is in the water, the loom or handle isfour or five feet above the deck. The man who works it stands behind, andwith both his hands sculls the vessel forward. This method of proceeding isvery slow; and for this reason, the canoes are but ill calculated forfishing, especially for striking of turtle, which, I think, can hardly everbe done in them. Their fishing implements, such as I have seen, are turtle-nets, made, I believe, of the filaments of the plantain-tree twisted; andsmall hand-nets, with very minute meshes made of fine twine and fish-gigs. Their general method of fishing, I guess, is to lie on the reefs in shoalwater, and to strike the fish that may come in their way. They may, however, have other methods, which we had no opportunity to see, as no boatwent out while we were here; all their time and attention being taken upwith us. Their canoes are about thirty feet long, and the deck or platformabout twenty-four in length, and ten in breadth. We had not, at this time, seen any timber in the country so large as that of which their canoes weremade. It was observed that the holes, made in the several parts, in orderto sew them together, were burnt through, but with what instrument we neverlearnt. Most probably it was of stone, which may be the reason why theywere so fond of large spikes, seeing at once they would answer thispurpose. I was convinced they were not wholly designed for edge-tools, because every one shewed a desire for the iron belaying-pins which werefixed in the quarter-deck rail, and seemed to value them far more than aspike-nail, although it might be twice as big. These pins, which are round, perhaps have the very shape of the tool they wanted to make of the nails. Idid not find that a hatchet was quite so valuable as a large spike. Smallnails were of little or no value; and beads, looking-glasses, &c. They didnot admire. 

The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are, so far as Icould judge, far more chaste than those of the more eastern islands. Inever heard that one of our people obtained the least favour from any oneof them. I have been told that the ladies here would frequently divertthemselves by going a little aside with our gentlemen, as if they meant tobe kind to them, and then would run away laughing at them. Whether this waschastity or coquetry, I shall not pretend to determine; nor is it material, since the consequences were the same. [4]

 [1] Mr G. F. Says their dress was very disfiguring, and gave them a thick squat shape. He describes it much like Captain Cook. According to him, these women's features, though coarse, expressed great good- nature; they had high foreheads, broad flat noses, rather small eyes, and very prominent cheek-bones. His reflections on the degraded state in which these women live, as subservient entirely to the arbitrary will and necessary purposes of their husbands, have not so much originality as force, but possess, however, enough of both to deserve a place here. "They commonly kept at a distance from the men, and seemed fearful of offending them by a look or gesture; they were the only persons in the family who had any employment, and several of them brought bundles of sticks and fuel on their backs. Their insensible husbands seldom deigned to look upon them, and continued in a kind of phlegmatic indolence, whilst the women sometimes indulged that social cheerfulness, which is the distinguishing ornament of the sex. Thus, in every country, mankind are fond of being tyrants, and the poorest Indian, who knows no wants but those which his existence requires, has already learnt to enslave his weaker help-mate, in order to save himself the trouble of supplying their wants, and cruelly exacts an obedience from her, which has been continued among savages as a curse upon the sex. Considering these humiliations and cruel oppressions of the sex, we have sometimes the greatest reason to admire, that the human race has perpetuated itself, and that the Creator has wisely planted a motive in the female breast, which stands the test of every outrage, which makes them patient to suffer, and prevents their withdrawing from the power of their tyrants. " This indeed is one of the most striking and important instances that can be adduced, of what has been called final causes, the determinate choice of an end, and the skilful adaptation of means to the accomplishment of it. A nation of women, we may confidently say, is as much a chimera, as a nation of two-headed men; and that individual has little acquaintance with herself that knows not, there is an insuperable objection to so anomalous an occurrence. With whatever abuses of authority, therefore, the other sex may be chargeable, it is not to be denied, that they assert their superiority on the ground of natural constitution, and that they cannot be considered as usurpers. Admitting this, it is important to enquire, what is the principle common to both, on which their mutual welfare depends, and which is as certainly violated by unfeeling rigour on one side, as by peevish rebellion on the other. Several principles might be mentioned, claiming in part this distinction, but none will answer all the conditions, except a right sense of their entire and common dependence on the source of their being and judge of their conduct, which is indeed the essence of religion and morality. It is vain, in fact, to determine almost any thing respecting such a creature as man, but by reasons of an eternal nature, and referring to the laws of an invisible world. Every system of an inferior kind, will be found inadequate in its application, and unsatisfactory in its sanctions--calculated, it may be, to amuse the philosopher in his closet, and attract the admiration of young and inexperienced minds, but too weak to sustain the shock of human passions, and too circumscribed to reach the heights of human hopes and fears. The condition of women improves, undoubtedly, as a people advances towards civilization; but there is a period in the process, at which voluptuousness, more cruel than indifference, and often maddened by jealousy, subjects her to greater degradation than her original insignificance, and destroys all hope of her amelioration in the tyranny of her own licentiousness. It is only where the principle alluded to, is publicly recognised in the civil institutions of a country, and conscientiously reverenced by the piety of its citizens, that she attains the true dignity of her destiny in an equal subordination, and vindicates the benevolence of the Deity in her creation, by the increase of happiness she confers on her consort. This cannot be looked for in a state of nature. --E. 

 [2] "These slings consisted of a slender round cord, no thicker than a packthread, which had a tassel at one end, and a loop at the other end and in the middle. The stones which they used were oblong, and pointed at each end, being made of a soft and unctuous soap-rock (_smectitis_), which could easily be rubbed into that shape. These exactly fitted the loop in the middle of the sling, and were kept in a wallet or pocket of coarse cloth, strongly woven, of a kind of grass, which was tied on about the middle. Their shape gives them a striking resemblance to the _glandes plumbeae_ of the Romans. "--G. F. 

 [3] Unfortunately the severe effects of the noxious fish, so sparingly partaken of, disabled the two Forsters from their favourite pursuits, during the greater part of their residence at New Caledonia. The result of their labours was, in consequence, very scanty, and, according to the younger F. 's assertions, received little or no encouragement from the friendly services of many of their fellow voyagers. He has inveighed with no small asperity against the ignorant selfishness and unprincipled hostility with which they had to contend. These seem to have been of a flagrant appearance, and almost systematic consistency. "If there had not been a few individuals, " says he, "of a more liberal way of thinking, whose disinterested love for the sciences comforted us from time to time, we should in all probability have fallen victims to that malevolence, which even the positive commands of Captain Cook were sometimes insufficient to keep within bounds. " However the reader may conjecture the existence of certain personal causes which are here complained of, he cannot but regret, that the interests of the expedition should in any manner have suffered loss by the contention. But such things, he will say, are incident to human nature, and have frequently taken place on even more important occasions. This is very true, but gives no comfort. --E. 

 [4] Mr G. F. Calls this deceptive amusement, "an innocent recreation, which shewed them good-humoured, and not destitute of ingenuity!" He agrees with Cook respecting the universal decency of these people, which forms so striking a dissimilarity to the immodest conduct of the other islanders met with in this voyage. The following remarks specify other differences, and are worthy of being transcribed:--"It is easy to be conceived, that the contrast between New Caledonia and the New Hebrides, was very striking to us, who had so lately visited those rich and fertile islands, where the vegetable kingdom glories in its greatest perfection. The difference in the character of the people was no less surprising. All the natives of the South-Sea islands, excepting those only which Tasman found on Tonga-Tabboo and Annamocka, (and those perhaps had been informed of what had passed between Le Maire, and the natives of Horne, Cocos, and Traitor's island, some years before, ) made some attempt to drive away the strangers who came to visit them. But the people of New Caledonia, at the first sight of us, received us as friends; they ventured to come on board our ship, without the least marks of fear or distrust, and suffered us to ramble freely throughout their country as far as we pleased. As nature has been so sparing here of her gifts, it is the more surprising that instead of seeing the inhabitants savage, distrustful, and warlike, as at Tanna, we should find them peaceable, well-disposed, and unsuspicious. It is not less remarkable, that, in spite of the drought which prevails in their country, and the scanty supply of vegetable food, they should have attained to a greater size, and a more muscular body. Perhaps, instead of placing the causes which effect disparity of stature among various nations in the difference of food, this instance ought to teach us to have retrospect likewise to the original races from which those tribes are descended, that fell under our examination. Let us, for instance, suppose, that the people of New Caledonia are the offspring of a nation, who, by living in affluence and in a genial climate, have not been stinted in their growth; the colony which removed into the barren soil of New Caledonia, will probably preserve the habit of body of their ancestors for many generations. The people of Tanna may have undergone a contrary revolution, and being descended of a slender and short race, like the Mallicollese, the richness of their present country may not yet have entirely taken effect. The inoffensive character of the people of New Caledonia appears to great advantage in their conduct towards us. They are the only people in the South Seas who have not had reason to complain of our arrival among them. When we consider how easy it is to provoke the mariner to sport with the lives of Indians, from the numerous examples throughout this narrative, we must acknowledge that it required an uncommon degree of good temper, not to draw upon themselves a single act of brutality. Those philosophers who are of opinion that the temper, the manners, and genius of a people, depend entirely upon the climate, will be at a loss to account for the peaceful character of the inhabitants of New Caledonia. If we admit that they are only strangers to distrust, because they have little to lose, we shall not solve the difficulty; since the people of New Holland, under the influence of a similar climate and soil, and in a more wretched situation than the inhabitants of New Caledonia, are savage and unsociable. The different characters of nations seem therefore to depend upon a multitude of different causes, which have acted together during a series of many ages. The inhabitants of New Caledonia do not owe their kind disposition to a total ignorance of wars and disputes; the variety of their offensive weapons being alone sufficient to put this matter out of doubt. By conversing with them we learnt that they have enemies, and that the people of an island called Mingha had a very different character from their own. Civilization is much farther advanced in some respects among them, than with their more opulent neighbours. That higher degree of culture, however, where the understanding is sufficiently enlightened to remove the unjust contempt shown to the fair sex, is unknown to them; their temper is too grave to be captivated by female blandishments, or to set a proper value upon the refined enjoyments of life. They are obliged to work hard, at times, for the means of subsistence; but their leisure hours are spent in indolence, without those little recreations which contribute so much to the happiness of mankind, and diffuse a spirit of chearfulness and vivacity throughout the Society and Friendly Islands. Besides a sort of whistle, made of wood, about two inches long, and shaped like a bell, having two holes at its base and one at the upper end, we never saw a musical instrument among the people of New Caledonia. Their dances and songs are equally unknown to us; and what we observed during our short stay, gave us reason to suppose, that even laughter is an uncommon guest among them. "--G. F. 

SECTION X. 

_Proceedings on the Coast of New Caledonia, with Geographical andNautical Observations. _

Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at sun-rise, on the 13th ofSeptember, we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. By S. , stood out for thesame channel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle of it. Observatory Isle bore S. 5° E. , distant four miles, and the isle of BalabeaW. N. W. As soon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the wind to thestarboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S. E. ; but as Mr Gilbert wasof opinion that he had seen the end, or N. W. Extremity of the land, andthat it would be easier to get round by the N. W. , I gave over plying, andbore up along the outside of the reef, steering N. N. W. , N. W. , and N. W. ByW. , as it trended. At noon the island of Balabea bore S. By W. , distantthirteen miles; and what we judged to be the west end of the great land, bore S. W. 1/2 S. , and the direction of the reef was N. W. By W. , latitudeobserved 19° 53' 20". Longitude from Observatory Isle 14' W. We continuedto steer N. W. By W. Along the outside of the reef till three o'clock, atwhich time the isle of Balabea bore S. By E. 1/2 E. In this direction weobserved a partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by thestrong tide which set out of it. From this place the reef inclined to thenorth for three or four leagues, and then to the N. W. We followed itsdirection, and as we advanced to N. W. , raised more land, which seemed to beconnected with what we had seen before; so that Mr Gilbert was mistaken, and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five o'clock this land boreW. By N. 1/2 N. , distant twenty miles; but what we could see of the reeftrended in the direction of N. W. By N. 

Having hauled the wind to the starboard tack, and spent the night plying, on the 14th, at sun-rise, the island of Balabea bore S. 6 E. , and the landseen the preceding night W. , but the reef still trended N. W. , along whichwe steered with a light breeze at E. S. E. At noon we observed in latitude19° 28', longitude from Observatory Isle 27' W. We had now no sight ofBalabea; and the other land, that is, the N. W. Part of it, bore W. By S. 1/2 S. , but we were not sure if this was one continued coast, or separateislands. For though some partitions were seen, from space to space, whichmade it look like the latter, a multitude of shoals rendered a nearerapproach to it exceedingly dangerous, if not impracticable. In theafternoon, with a fine breeze at E. S. E. , we ranged the outside of theseshoals, which we found to trend in the direction of N. W. By W. , N. W. By N. , and N. N. E. At three o'clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outeredge of the reef, in latitude 19° 25', and in the direction of N. E. Fromthe north-westernmost land, six or seven leagues distant. So much as wecould see of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached fromeach other; and the channel leading in amongst them appeared to be on theS. E. Side of the sandy isle; at least, there was a space where the sea didnot break. At sun-set we could but just see the land, which bore S. W. ByS. , about ten leagues distant. A clear horizon produced the discovery of noland to the westward of this direction; the reef too trended away W. By N. 1/2 N. , and seemed to terminate in a point which was seen from the mast-head. Thus every thing conspired to make us believe that we should soon getround these shoals; and with these flattering expectations we hauled thewind, which was at E. N. E. , and spent the night making short boards. 

Next morning at sun-rise, seeing neither land nor breakers, we bore awayN. W. By W. , and two hours after saw the reef extending N. W. Farther thanthe eye could reach; no land was to be seen. It was therefore probable thatwe had passed its N. W. Extremity; and, as we had seen from the hills ofBalade its extent to the S. W. , it was necessary to know how far it extendedto the east or southeast, while it was in our power to recover the coast;for, by following the direction of the shoals, we might have been carriedso far to leeward as not to be able to beat back without considerable lossof time. We were already far out of sight of land; and there was no knowinghow much farther we might be carried, before we found an end to them. Theseconsiderations, together with the risk we must run in exploring a seastrewed with shoals, and where no anchorage, without them, is to be found, induced me to abandon the design of proceeding round by the N. W. , and toply up to the S. E, in which direction I knew there was a clear sea. Withthis view we tacked and stood to the S. E. , with the wind at N. E. By E. , agentle breeze. At this time we were in the latitude of 19° 7' S. , longitude163° 57' E. 

In standing to the S. E. We did but just weather the point of the reef wehad passed the preceding evening. To make our situation the more dangerousthe wind began to fail us; and at three in the afternoon it fell calm, andleft us to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly on the reef, whichwas hardly a league from us. We sounded, but found no bottom with a line oftwo hundred fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to be hoisted out totow the ship, but they were of little use against so great a swell. We, however, found that the ship did not draw near the reef so fast as might beexpected; and at seven o'clock a light air at N. N. E. Kept her head to thesea, but it lasted no longer than midnight, when it was succeeded by a deadcalm. 

At day-break on the 16th we had no sight of the reef; and at eleven, abreeze springing up at S. S. W. , we hoisted in the boats, and made sail toS. E. At noon we observed in 19° 35' S. , which was considerably more to thesouth than we expected, and shewed that a current or tide had been in ourfavour all night, and accounted for our getting so unexpectedly clear ofthe shoals. At two o'clock p. M. We had again a calm which lasted till nine, when it was succeeded by a light air from E. N. E. And E. , with which weadvanced but slowly. 

On the 17th at noon, we observed in latitude 19° 54', when the isle ofBalabea bore S. 68° W. , ten and a half leagues distant. We continued toply, with variable light winds, between N. E. And S. E. , without meeting withany thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape Colnett boreN. 78° W. , distant six leagues. From this cape the land extended round bythe south to E. S. E. Till it was lost in the horizon, and the countryappeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude observed 20° 41', longitudemade from Observatory Isle 1° 8' E. We stood in shore with a light breezeat east till sun-set, when we were between two and three leagues off. Thecoast extended from S. 42° 1/2 E. To N. 59° W. Two small islets lay withoutthis last direction, distant from us four or five miles; some others laybetween us and the shore, and to the east, where they seemed to beconnected by reefs, in which appeared some openings from space to space. The country was mountainous, and had much the same aspect as about Balade. On one of the western small isles was an elevation like a tower; and over alow neck of land within the isle were seen many other elevations, resembling the masts of a fleet of ships. 

Next day at sun-rise, after having stood off all night with a light breezeat S. E. , we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast; and in thissituation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening, when we got afaint land-breeze at S. W. , with which we steered S. E. All night. , On the 22d at sun-rise the land was clouded, but it was not long before theclouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a goodadvance. At ten o'clock, the land-breeze being succeeded by a sea-breeze atE. By S. , this enabled us to stand in for the land, which at noon extendedfrom N. 78° W. To S. 31° 1/2 E. , round by the S. In this last direction thecoast seemed to trend more to the south in a lofty promontory, which, onaccount of the day, received the name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2', longitude 167° 7' 1/2 E. Some breakers lay between us and the shore, andprobably they were connected with those we had seen before. 

During the night, we had advanced about two leagues to the S. E. ; and atday-break on the 23d an elevated point appeared in sight beyond CapeCoronation, bearing S. 23° E. It proved to be the south-east extremity ofthe coast, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Foreland. Latitude22° 16' S. , longitude 167° 14' E. About noon, having got a breeze from theN. E. , we stood to S. S. E. , and as we drew towards Cape Coronation, saw in avalley to the south of it, a vast number of those elevated objects before-mentioned; and some low land under the foreland was wholly covered withthem. We could not agree in our opinions of what they were. I supposed themto be a singular sort of trees, being too numerous to resemble any thingelse; and a great deal of smoke kept rising all the day from amongst thosenear the cape. Our philosophers were of opinion that this was the smoke ofsome internal and perpetual fire. My representing to them that there was nosmoke here in the morning would have been of no avail, had not this eternalfire gone out before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They werestill more positive that the elevations were pillars of basaltes, likethose which compose the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. At sun-set, the windveering round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe toapproach the shore in the dark. At day-break we stood in again, with afaint land-breeze between E. S. E. And S. S. E. At noon observed, in latitude21° 59' 30", Cape Coronation being west southerly, distant seven leagues, and the foreland S. 38° W. As we advanced S. S. W. The coast beyond theforeland began to appear in sight; and at sun-set we discovered a lowisland lying S. S. E, about seven miles from the foreland. It was one ofthose which are generally surrounded with shoals and breakers. At the sametime a round hill was seen bearing S. 24° E, twelve leagues distant. Duringnight, having had variable light winds, we advanced but little either way. 

On the 25th, about ten o'clock a. M. , having got a fair breeze at E. S. E. , westood to the S. S. W. , in hopes of getting round the foreland; but, as wedrew near, we perceived more low isles, beyond the one already mentioned, which at last appeared to be connected by breakers, extending towards theforeland, and seeming to join the shore. We stood on till half past threeo'clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks, just peeping above the surfaceof the sea, on the shoal above-mentioned. It was now time to alter thecourse, as the day was too far spent to look for a passage near the shore, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during the night. We thereforestood to the south to look for a passage without the small isles. We had afine breeze at E. S. E. , but it lasted no longer than five o'clock, when itfell to a dead calm. Having sounded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reachthe bottom, though we were but a little way from the shoals, which, insteadof following the coast to S. W. , took a S. E. Direction towards the hill wehad seen the preceding evening, and seemed to point out to us that it wasnecessary to go round that land. At this time the most advanced point onthe main bore S. 68° W. , distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o'clockwe got a light breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out E. S. E. , andto spend the night with less anxiety. On some of the low isles were many ofthose elevations already mentioned. Every one was now satisfied they weretrees, except our philosophers, who still maintained that they werebasaltes. [1]

About day-break on the 26th, the wind having shifted to S. S. W. , westretched to S. E. For the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an islandwhich at noon extended from S. 16° E. To S. 7° W. , distant six leagues. Latitude observed 22° 16' S. In the p. M. The wind freshened, and veering toS. S. E. , we stretched to the east, till two a. M. , on the 27th, when wetacked and stood to S. W. , with hopes of weathering the island; but we fellabout two miles short of our expectations, and had to tack about a milefrom the east side of the island, the extremes bearing from N. W. By N. ToS. W. , the hill W. , and some low isles, lying off the S. E. Point, S. By W. These seemed to be connected with the large island by breakers. We soundedwhen in stays, but had no ground with a line of eighty fathoms. The skirtsof this island were covered with the elevations more than once mentioned. They had much the appearance of tall pines, which occasioned my giving thatname to the island. The round hill, which is on the S. W. Side, is of such aheight as to be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. The island is about amile in circuit, and situated in latitude 22° 38' S. , longitude 167° 40' E. Having made two attempts to weather the Isle of Pines before sun-set, withno better success, than before, this determined me to stretch off tillmidnight. This day at noon the thermometer was at 68° 3/4 which is lowerthan it had been since the 27th of February. 

Having tacked at midnight, assisted by the currents and a fresh gale at E. S. E. And S. E. , next morning at day-break we found ourselves several leaguesto windward of the Isle of Pines, and bore away large, round the S. E. AndS. Sides. The coast from the S. E. , round by the S. To the W. , was strewedwith sand-banks, breakers, and small low isles, most of which were coveredwith the same lofty trees that ornamented the borders of the greater one. We continued to range the outside of these small isles and breakers, atthree-fourths of a league distance, and as we passed one, raised another, so that they seemed to form a chain extending to the isles which lie offthe foreland. At noon we observed, in latitude 22° 44' 36" S. The Isle ofPines extending from N by E 1/2 E. To E. By N. ; and Cape Coronation N. 32°30' W distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with a fine gale ateast, we steered N. W. By W. , along the outside of the shoals, with a viewof falling in with the land a little to S. W. Of the foreland. At twoo'clock p. M. Two low islets were seen bearing W. By S. , and as they wereconnected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard, thisdiscovery made it necessary to haul off S. W. , in order to get clear of themall. At three, more breakers appeared, extending from the low isles towardsthe S. E. We now hauled out close to the wind, and, in an hour and a half, were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to tack. From the mast-headthey were seen to extend as far as E. S. E. , and the smoothness of the seamade it probable that they extended to the north of east, and that we werein a manner surrounded by them. At this time the hill on the Isle of Pinesbore N. 71 1/2 E. , the foreland N. 1/4 W. , and the most advanced point ofland on the S. W. Coast bore N. W. , distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. Thisdirection of the S. W. Coast, which was rather within the parallel of theN. E. , assured us that this land extended no farther to the S. W. Aftermaking a short trip to N. N. E. , we stood again to the south, in expectationof having a better view of the shoals before sun-set. We gained nothing bythis but the prospect of a sea strewed with shoals, which we could notclear but by returning in the track by which we came. We tacked nearly inthe same place where we had tacked before, and on sounding found a bottomof fine sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of breakers toleeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night inmaking short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made ourselvesacquainted with in the day: And thus it was spent, but under the terribleapprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the many dangers whichsurrounded us. 

Day-light shewed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that we had beenin the most imminent danger; having had breakers continually under our lee, and at a very little distance from us. We owed our safety to theinterposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk manner inwhich the ship was managed; for, as we were standing to the north, thepeople on the lee-gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship. 

I was now almost tired of a coast which I could no longer explore, but atthe risk of losing the ship, and ruining the whole voyage. I was, however, determined not to leave it, till I knew what trees those were which hadbeen the subject of our speculation; especially as they appeared to be of asort useful to shipping, and had not been seen any where but in thesouthern part of this land. With this view, after making a trip to thesouth, to weather the shoals under our lee, we stood to the north, in hopesof finding anchorage under some of the islets on which these trees grow. Wewere stopped by eight o'clock by the shoals which lie extended between theIsle of Pines and Queen Charlotte's Foreland; and found soundings off themin fifty-five, forty, and thirty-six fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. Thenearer we came to these shoals, the more we saw of them, and we were notable to say if there was any passage between the two lands. 

Being now but a few miles to windward of the low isles lying off theForeland, mentioned on the 25th and 26th, I bore down to the one next tous. As we drew near it, I perceived that it was unconnected with theneighbouring shoals, and that it is probable we might get to an anchorunder its lee or west side. We therefore stood on, being conducted by anofficer at the mast-head; and after hauling round the point of the reefwhich surrounds the isle, we attempted to ply to windward, in order to getnearer the shore. Another reef to the north confined us to a narrowchannel, through which ran a current against us, that rendered this attemptfruitless; so that we were obliged to anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water, the bottom fine coral sand; the isle bearing W. By N. One mile distant. Assoon as this was done, we hoisted out a boat, in which I went on ashore, accompanied by the botanists. We found the tall trees to be a kind ofspruce pine, very proper for spars, of which we were in want. After makingthis discovery, I hastened on board in order to have more time afterdinner, when I landed again with two boats, accompanied by several of theofficers and gentlemen, having with us the carpenter and some of his crew, to cut down such trees as were wanting. While this was doing I took thebearings of several lands round. The hill on the Isle of Pines boreS. 59 30' E; the low point of Queen Charlotte's Foreland N. 14° 30' W. ; thehigh land over it, seen over two low isles, N. 20° W. ; and the mostadvanced point of land to the west, bore west, half a point south, distantsix or seven leagues. We had, from several bearings, ascertained the truedirection of the coast from the foreland to this point, which I shalldistinguish by the name of Prince of Wales's Foreland. It is situated inthe latitude of 22° 29' S. , longitude 166° 57' E. , is of considerableheight, and, when it first appears above the horizon, looks like an island. From this cape, the coast trended nearly N. W. This was rather too northerlya direction to join that part which we saw from the hills of Balade. But asit was very high land which opened off the cape in that direction, it isvery probable that lower land, which we could not see, opened sooner; orelse the coast more to the N. W. Takes a more westerly direction, in thesame manner as the N. E. Coast. Be this as it may, we pretty well know theextent of the land, by having it confined within certain limits. However, Istill entertained hopes of seeing more of it, but was disappointed. 

The little isle upon which we landed, is a mere sandbank, not exceedingthree-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grewthe Etoa-tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, andplants. These gave sufficient employment to our botanists, all the time westayed upon it, and occasioned my calling it Botany Isle. On it wereseveral water-snakes, some pigeons, and doves, seemingly different from anywe had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of thevery same sort as our English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, branches, and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, &c. Shewed that peoplehad lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe, precisely of the sameshape as those we had seen at Balade, lay wrecked in the sand. We were nowno longer at a loss to know of what trees they make their canoes, as theycan be no other than these pines. On this little isle were some whichmeasured twenty inches diameter, and between sixty and seventy feet inlength, and would have done very well for a foremast to the Resolution, hadone been wanting. Since trees of this size are to be found on so small aspot, it is reasonable to expect to find some much larger on the main, andlarger isles; and, if appearances did not deceive us, we can assert it. 

If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, knew of no island in the SouthPacific Ocean, where a ship could supply herself with a mast or yard, wereshe ever so much distressed for want of one. Thus far the discovery is ormay be valuable. My carpenter, who was a mast-maker as well as a ship-wright, two trades he learnt in Deptford-yard, was of opinion that thesetrees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white, close-grained, tough, and light. Turpentine had exuded out of most of the trees, and thesun had inspissated it into a rosin, which was found sticking to thetrunks, and lying about the roots. These trees shoot out their brancheslike all other pines; with this difference, that the branches of these aremuch smaller and shorter; so that the knots become nothing when the tree iswrought for use. I took notice, that the largest of them had the smallestand shortest branches, and were crowned, as it were, at the top, by aspreading branch like a bush. This was what led some on board into theextravagant notion of their being basaltes: Indeed no one could think offinding such trees here. The seeds are produced in cones; but we could findnone that had any in them, or that were in a proper state for vegetation orbotanical examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub ofthe spruce-fir kind, but it was very small. We also found on the isle asort of scurvy-grass, and a plant, called by us Lamb's Quarters, which, when boiled, eat like spinnage. 

Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boat-masts, &c. , and night approaching, we returned with them on board. 

The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was nowto consider what was next to be done. We had from the top-mast-head taken aview of the sea around us, and observed the whole, to the west, to bestrewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extentof our horizon. They seemed indeed not to be all connected, and to bedivided by winding channels. But when I considered that the extent of thisS. W. Coast was already pretty well determined, the great risk attending amore accurate survey, and the time it would require to accomplish it, onaccount of the many dangers we should have to encounter, I determined notto hazard the ship down to leeward, where we might be so hemmed in as tofind it difficult to return, and by that means lose the proper season forgetting to the south. I now wished to have had the little vessel set up, the frame of which we had on board. I had some thoughts of doing this, whenwe were last at Otaheite, but found it could not be executed, withoutneglecting the caulking and other necessary repairs of the ship, or stayinglonger there than the route I had in view would admit. It was now too lateto begin setting her up, and then to use her in exploring this coast; andin our voyage to the south, she could be of no service. These reasonsinduced me to try to get without the shoals; that is, to the southward ofthem. [2]

Next morning at day-break, we got under sail with a light breeze at E. ByN. We had to make some trips to weather the shoals to leeward of BotanyIsle; but when this was done the breeze began to fail; and at three p. M. Itfell calm. The swell, assisted by the current, set us fast to S. W. Towardsthe breakers, which were yet in sight in that direction. Thus we continuedtill ten o'clock, at which time a breeze springing up at N. N. W. We steeredE. S. E. ; the contrary course we had come in; not daring to steer farthersouth till daylight. 

At three o'clock next morning, the wind veered to S. W. , blew hard, and insqualls, attended with rain, which made it necessary to proceed with ourcourses up and top-sails on the cap, till day-break, when the hill on theIsle of Pines bore north; and our distance from the shore in that directionwas about four leagues. We had now a very strong wind at S. S. W. Attended bya great sea; so that we had reason to rejoice at having got clear of theshoals before this gale overtook us. Though every thing conspired to makeme think this was the westerly monsoon, it can hardly be comprehended underthat name, for several reasons; first, because it was near a month too soonfor these winds; secondly, because we know not if they reach this place atall; and lastly, because it is very common for westerly winds to blowwithin the tropics. However, I never found them to blow so hard before, orso far southerly. Be these things as they may, we had now no other choicebut to stretch to S. E. , which we accordingly did with our starboard tacksaboard; and at noon we were out of sight of land. 

The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at whichtime we observed in latitude 23° 18', longitude made from the Isle of Pines1° 54' E. In the afternoon we had little wind from the south, and a greatswell from the same direction: And many boobies, tropic, and men-of-warbirds were seen. At eleven o'clock a fresh breeze sprung up at W. By S. , with which we stood to the south. At this time we were in the latitude of23° 18', longitude 169° 49' E. , and about forty-two leagues south of theHebrides. 

At eight o'clock in the morning, on the third, the wind veered to S. W. Andblew a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. I now gave over allthought of returning to the land we had left. Indeed, when I considered thevast ocean we had to explore to the south; the state and condition of theship, already in want of some necessary stores; that summer was approachingfast, and that any considerable accident might detain us in this seaanother year; I did not think it advisable to attempt to regain the land. 

Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, to leave acoast I had discovered, before it was fully explored. --I called it NewCaledonia; and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest islandin the South Pacific Ocean. For it extends from the latitude of 19° 37', to22° 30', S. , and from the longitude of 163° 37' to 167° 14' E. It liesnearly N. W. 1/2 W. , and S. E. 1 E. , and is about eighty-seven leagues longin that direction; but its breadth is not considerable, not any whereexceeding ten leagues. It is a country full of hills and valleys; ofvarious extent both for height and depth. To judge of the whole by theparts we were on, from these hills spring vast numbers of little rivulets, which greatly contribute to fertilize the plains, and to supply all thewants of the inhabitants. The summits of most of the hills seem to bebarren; though some few are cloathed with wood; as are all the plains andvalleys. By reason of these hills, many parts of the coast, when at adistance from it, appeared indented, or to have great inlets between thehills; but, when we came near the shore, we always found such places shutup with low land, and also observed low land to lie along the coast betweenthe seashore and the foot of the hills. As this was the case in all suchparts as we came near enough to see, it is reasonable to suppose that thewhole coast is so. I am likewise of opinion, that the whole, or greatestpart, is surrounded by reefs or shoals, which render the access to it verydangerous, but at the same time guard the coast from the violence of thewind and sea; make it abound with fish, secure an easy and safe navigationalong it, for canoes, &c. ; and, most likely, form some good harbours forshipping. Most, if not every part of the coast, is inhabited, the Isle ofPines not excepted; for we saw either smoke by day, or fires by night, wherever we came. In the extent which I have given to this island, isincluded the broken or unconnected lands to the N. W. That they may beconnected; I shall not pretend to deny; we were, however, of opinion thatthey were isles, and that New Caledonia terminated more to S. E. ; thoughthis at most is but a well-founded conjecture. 

But whether these lands be separate isles, or connected with New Caledonia, it is by no means certain that we saw their termination to the west. Ithink we did not; as the shoals did not end with the land we saw, but kepttheir N. W. Direction farther than Bougainville's track in the latitude of15° or 15° 1/2. Nay, it seems not improbable, that a chain of isles, sand-banks, and reefs, may extend to the west, as far as the coast of New SouthWales. The eastern extent of the isles and shoals off that coast, betweenthe latitude of 15° and 23', were not known. The resemblance of the twocountries; Bougainville's meeting with the shoal of Diana above sixtyleagues from the coast; and the signs he had of land to the S. E. ; all tendto increase the probability. I must confess that it is carrying probabilityand conjecture a little too far, to say what may lie in a space of twohundred leagues; but it is in some measure necessary, were it only to putsome future navigator on his guard. 

Mr Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia weexplored, by ninety-six sets of observations, which were reduced to oneanother by our trusty guide the watch. I found the variation of the compassto be 10° 24' E. This is the mean variation given by the three azimuthcompasses we had on board, which would differ from each other a degree anda half, and sometimes more. I did not observe any difference in thevariation between the N. W. And S. E. Parts of this land, except when we wereat anchor before Balade, where it was less than 10°; but this I did notregard, as I found such an uniformity out at sea; and it is there wherenavigators want to know the variation. While we were on the N. E. Coast, Ithought the currents set to S. E. And W. Or N. W. On the other side; but theyare by no means considerable, and may, as probably, be channels of tides, as regular currents. In the narrow channels which divide the shoals, andthose which communicate with the sea, the tides run strong; but their riseand fall are inconsiderable, not exceeding three feet and a half. The timeof high-water, at the full and change, at Balade, is about six o'clock; butat Botany Isle we judged it would happen about ten or eleven o'clock. 

 [1] Mr G. F. Very plainly avows his conviction that they were trees, which on a prodigious tall stem had short and slender branches, not discernible at a distance. Captain Cook, it is very evident, uses the language of banter, not quite consistent with either the dignity of his own character, or the respect due to even the mistaken opinion of men of science. --E. 

 [2] "We were becalmed in the evening among the reefs, which surrounded us on all sides, and made our situation dangerous, on account of the tides and currents, as well as for want of anchoring-ground, having sounded in vain with a line of 150 fathoms. At half past seven o'clock we saw a ball of fire to the northward, in size and splendour resembling the sun, though somewhat paler. It burst a few moments after, and left behind it several bright sparks, of which the largest, of an oblong shape, moved quickly out of our horizon, whilst a kind of bluish flame followed, and marked its course. Some heard a hissing noise, which accompanied the swift descent of this meteor. Our shipmates expected a fresh gale after its appearance; having frequently observed the same to ensue upon similar occasions. And in fact, whatever may be the relation between this phenomenon, and the motion of the atmosphere, or whether it was accident, their predictions were verified the same night, when a brisk gale sprung up, which settled at south. "--G. F. 

 If the opinion of some philosophers as to the origin of these fire- balls, be correct, viz. That they are produced by the combination of animal or vegetable products suspended in the atmosphere, it is easy to understand, how, the equilibrium of the atmosphere being destroyed by the condensation, if one may so call it, of a large part of its constituent principles, those meteors should be followed by considerable gales or storms. Perhaps, indeed, this opinion best explains all the circumstances of this phenomenon, and especially the occurrence so constantly observed of such agitation. The subject, however, is still involved in a good deal of difficulty, from which a long and very accurate course of examination is requisite to deliver it. Much has been effected in this respect, since the publication of Forster's work; and there is no reason to doubt, that the application of an improved chemistry to a careful comparison of all the authentic relations of such phenomena, will issue in a satisfactory solution. --E. 

SECTION XI. 

_Sequel of the Passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, with an Accountof the Discovery of Norfolk Island; and the Incidents that happened whilethe Ship lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. _

The wind continuing at S. W. , W. S. W. , and W. , blowing a fresh gale, and nowand then squalls, with showers of rain, we steered to S. S. E, withoutmeeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the 6th, when itfell calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 27° 50' S. , longitude171° 43' E. The calm continued till noon the next day, during which time weobserved the variation to be 10° 33' E. I now ordered the carpenters towork to caulk the decks. As we had neither pitch, tar, nor rosin, left topay the seams, this was done with varnish of pine, and afterwards coveredwith coral sand, which made a cement far exceeding my expectation. In theafternoon, we had a boat in the water, and shot two albatrosses, which weregeese to us. We had seen one of this kind of birds the day before, whichwas the first we observed since we had been within the tropic. On the 7th, at one p. M. A breeze sprung up at south; soon after it veered to, and fixedat S. E. By S. , and blew a gentle gale, attended with pleasant weather. 

We stretched to W. S. W. , and next day at noon were in the latitude of 28°25', longitude 170° 26' E. In the evening, Mr Cooper haying struck aporpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring-to, and have two boatsout, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet long; afemale of that kind, which naturalists call dolphin of the ancients, andwhich differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head and jaw, havingthem long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. The hasletand lean flesh were to us a feast. The latter was a little liverish, buthad not the least fishy taste. It was eaten roasted, broiled, and fried, first soaking it in warm water. Indeed, little art was wanting to make anything fresh, palatable to those who had been living so long on saltmeat. [1]

We continued to stretch to W. S. W. Till the 10th, when at day-break wediscovered land, bearing S. W. , which on a nearer approach we found to be anisland of good height, and five leagues in circuit. I named it NorfolkIsle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It is situated in thelatitude of 29° 2' 30" S. And longitude 168° 16' E. The latter wasdetermined by lunar observations made on this, the preceding, and followingdays; and the former by a good observation at noon, when we were aboutthree miles from the isle. Soon after we discovered the isle, we sounded intwenty-two fathoms on a bank of coral sand; after this we continued tosound, and found not less than twenty-two; or more than twenty-four fathoms(except near the shore), and the same bottom mixed with broken shells. After dinner a party of us embarked in two boats, and landed on the island, without any difficulty, behind some large rocks, which lined part of thecoast on the N. E. Side. 

We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set footon it. We observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand; and, inparticular, the flax-plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in anypart of that country; but the chief produce is a sort of spruce-pine, whichgrows in great abundance, and to a large size, many of the trees being asthick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and exceedingly straight andtall. This pine is a sort between that which grows in New Zealand, and thatin New Caledonia; the foliage differing something from both, and the woodnot so heavy as the former, nor so light and close-grained as the latter. It is a good deal like the Quebec pine. For about two hundred yards fromthe shore, the ground is covered so thick with shrubs and plants, as hardlyto be penetrated farther inland. The woods were perfectly clear and freefrom underwood, and the soil seemed rich and deep. 

We found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and parroquets as in NewZealand, rails, and some small birds. The sea-fowl are, white boobies, gulls, tern, &c. Which breed undisturbed on the shores, and in the cliffsof the rocks. 

On the isle is fresh water; and cabbage-palm, wood-sorrel, sow-thistle, andsamphire, abounding in some places on the shore, we brought on board asmuch of each sort as the time we had to gather them would admit. Thesecabbage-trees or palms were not thicker than a man's leg, and from ten totwenty feet high. They are of the same genus with the cocoa-nut tree; likeit they have large pinnated leaves, and are the same as the second sortfound in the northern parts of New South Wales. The cabbage is, properlyspeaking, the bud of the tree; each tree producing but one cabbage, whichis at the crown, where the leaves spring out, and is inclosed in the stem. The cutting off the cabbage effectually destroys the tree; so that no morethan one can be had from the same stem. The cocoa-nut tree, and some othersof the palm kind, produce cabbage as well as these. This vegetable is notonly wholesome, but exceedingly palatable, and proved the most agreeablerepast we had for some time. 

The coast does not want fish. While we were on shore, the people in theboats caught some which were excellent. I judged that it was high water atthe full and change, about one o'clock; and that the tide rises and fallsupon a perpendicular about four or five feet. 

The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in theboats, and stretched to E. N. E. (with the wind at S. E. ) till midnight, whenwe tacked, and spent the remainder of the night making short boards. 

Next morning at sun-rise, we made sail, stretching to S. S. W. , and weatheredthe island; on the south side of which lie two isles, that serve asroosting and breeding-places for birds. On this, as also on the S. E. Side, is a sandy beach; whereas most of the other shores are bounded by rockycliffs, which have twenty and eighteen fathoms water close to them: Atleast so we found it on the N. E. Side, and with good anchorage. A bank ofcoral sand, mixed with shells, on which we found from nineteen to thirty-five or forty fathoms water, surrounds the isle, and extends, especially tothe south, seven leagues off. The morning we discovered the island, thevariation was found to be 13° 9' E. ; but I think this observation gave toomuch, as others which we had, both before and after, gave 2° less. [2]

After leaving Norfolk Isle, I steered for New Zealand, my intention beingto touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to refresh my crew, and put the shipin a condition to encounter the southern latitudes. 

On the 17th, at day-break, we saw Mount Egmont, which was covered witheverlasting snow, bearing S. E. 1/2 E. Our distance from the shore was abouteight leagues, and, on sounding, we found seventy fathoms water, a muddybottom. The wind soon fixed in the western board, and blew a fresh gale, with which we steered S. S. E. For Queen Charlotte's Sound, with a view offalling in with Cape Stephens. At noon Cape Egmont bore E. N. E. Distantthree or four leagues; and though the mount was hid in the clouds, wejudged it to be in the same direction as the Cape; latitude observed 39°24'. The wind increased in such a manner as to oblige us to close-reef ourtop-sails, and strike top-gallant yards. At last we could bear no more sailthan the two courses, and two close-reefed top-sails; and under them westretched for Cape Stephens, which we made at eleven o'clock at night. 

At midnight we tacked and made a trip to the north till three o'clock nextmorning, when we bore away for the sound. At nine we hauled round PointJackson through a sea which looked terrible, occasioned by a rapid tide, and a high wind; but as we knew the coast, it did not alarm us. At eleveno'clock we anchored before Ship Cove; the strong flurries from off the landnot permitting us to get in. 

In the afternoon, as we could not move the ship, I went into the Cove, withthe seine, to try to catch some fish. The first thing I did after landing, was to look for the bottle I left hid when last there, in which was thememorandum. It was taken away, but by whom it did not appear. Two haulswith the seine producing only four small fish, we, in some measure, made upfor this deficiency, by shooting several birds, which the flowers in thegarden had drawn thither, as also some old shags, and by robbing the nestsof some young ones. 

Being little wind next morning, we weighed and warped the ship into theCove, and there moored with the two bowers. We unbent the sails to repairthem; several having been split, and otherwise damaged in the late gale. The main and fore courses, already worn to the very utmost, were condemnedas useless. I ordered the top-masts to be struck and unrigged, in order tofix to them moveable chocks or knees, for want of which the trestle-treeswere continually breaking; the forge to be set up, to make bolts and repairour iron-work; and tents to be erected on shore for the reception of aguard, coopers, sail-makers, &c. I likewise gave orders that vegetables (ofwhich there were plenty) should be boiled every morning with oatmeal andportable broth for breakfast, and with pease and broth every day for dinnerfor the whole crew, over and above their usual allowance of salt meat. 

In the afternoon, as Mr Wales was setting up his observatory, he discoveredthat several trees, which were standing when we last sailed from thisplace, had been cut down with saws and axes; and a few days after, theplace where an observatory, clock, &c. Had been set up, was also found, ina spot different from that where Mr Wales had placed his. It was, therefore, now no longer to be doubted, that the Adventure had been in thiscove after we had left it. 

Next day, wind southerly; hazy clouded weather. Every body went to work attheir respective employments, one of which was to caulk the ship's sides, athing much wanted. The seams were paid with putty, made with cook's fat andchalk; the gunner happening to have a quantity of the latter on board. 

The 21st, wind southerly, with continual rains. 

The weather being fair in the afternoon of the 22d, accompanied by thebotanists, I visited our gardens on Motuara, which we found almost in astate of nature, having been wholly neglected by the inhabitants. Nevertheless, many articles were in a flourishing condition, and shewed howwell they liked the soil in which they were planted. None of the nativeshaving yet made their appearance, we made a fire on the point of theisland, in hopes, if they saw the smoke, they might be induced to come tous. 

Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two canoeswere seen coming down the sound; but as soon as they perceived the ship, they retired behind a point on the west side. After breakfast I went in aboat to look for them; and as we proceeded along the shore, we shot severalbirds. The report of the muskets gave notice of our approach, and thenatives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by hallooing to us; but as wedrew near to their habitations, they all fled to the woods, except two orthree men, who stood on a rising ground near the shore, with their arms intheir hands. The moment we landed, they knew us. Joy then took place offear; and the rest of the natives hurried out of the woods, and embraced usover and over again; leaping and skipping about like madmen, but I observedthat they would not suffer some women, whom we saw at a distance, to comenear us. After we had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and what elsewe had with us, they gave us in return a large quantity of fish, which theyhad just caught. There were only a few amongst them whose faces we couldrecognise, and on our asking why they were afraid of us, and enquiring forsome of our old acquaintances by name, they talked much about killing, which was so variously understood by us, that we could gather nothing fromit, so that, after a short stay, we took leave, and went on board. [3]

Next morning early, our friends, according to a promise they had made usthe preceding evening, paying us a visit, brought with them a quantity offine fish, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. And then returnedto their habitations. 

On the 26th, we got into the after-hold four boat-load of shingle ballast, and struck down six guns, keeping only six on deck. Our good friends thenatives, having brought us a plentiful supply of fish, afterwards went onshore to the tents, and informed our people there, that a ship like ourshad been lately lost in the strait; that some of the people got on shore;and that the natives stole their clothes, &c. For which several were shot;and afterwards, when they could fire no longer, the natives having got thebetter, killed them with their patapatoos, and eat them, but that theythemselves had no hand in the affair, which, they said, happened at VannaAroa, near Terrawhitte, on the other side of the strait. One man said itwas two moons ago: But another contradicted him, and counted on his fingersabout twenty or thirty days. They described by actions how the ship wasbeat to pieces by going up and down against the rocks, till at last it wasall scattered abroad. 

The next day some others told the same story, or nearly to the samepurport, and pointed over the east bay, which is on the east side of thesound, as to the place where it happened. These stories making me veryuneasy about the Adventure, I desired Mr Wales, and those on shore, to letme know if any of the natives should mention it again, or to send them tome; for I had not heard any thing from them myself. When Mr Wales came onboard to dinner he found the very people who had told him the story onshore, and pointed them out to me. I enquired about the affair, andendeavoured to come at the truth by every method I could think of. All Icould get from them was, "Caurey, " (no); and they not only denied everysyllable of what they had said on shore, but seemed wholly ignorant of thematter; so that I began to think our people had misunderstood them, andthat the story referred to some of their own people and boats. [4]

On the 28th, fresh gales westerly, and fair weather. We rigged and fittedthe top-masts. Having gone on a shooting-party to West Bay, we went to theplace where I left the hogs and fowls; but saw no vestiges of them, nor ofany body having been there since. In our return, having visited thenatives, we got some fish in exchange for trifles which we gave them. As wewere coming away, Mr Forster thought be heard the squeaking of a pig in thewoods, close by their habitations; probably they may have those I left withthem when last here. In the evening we got on board, with about a dozen anda half of wild fowl, shags, and sea-pies. The sportsmen who had been out inthe woods near the ship were more successful among the small birds. 

On the 29th and 30th nothing remarkable happened, except that in theevening of the latter all the natives left us. 

The 31st being a fine pleasant day, our botanists went over to Long Island, where one of the party saw a large black boar. As it was described to me, Ithought it might be one of those which Captain Furneaux left behind, andhad been brought over to this isle by those who had it in keeping. Sincethey did not destroy those hogs when first in their possession, we cannotsuppose they will do it now; so that there is little fear but that thiscountry will in time be stocked with these animals, both in a wild anddomestic state. 

Next day we were visited by a number of strangers who came up from thesound, and brought with them but little fish. Their chief commodity wasgreen stone or talc, an article which never came to a bad market; and someof the largest pieces of it I had ever seen were got this day. 

On the 2d I went over to the east side of the sound, and, without meetingany thing remarkable, returned on board in the evening, when I learnt thatthe same people who visited us the preceding day, had been on board most ofthis, with their usual article of trade. 

On the 3d, Mr Pickersgill met with some of the natives, who related to himthe story of a ship being lost, and the people being killed; but added, with great earnestness, it was not done by them. 

On the 4th, fine pleasant weather. Most of the natives now retired up thesound. Indeed, I had taken every gentle method, to oblige them to be gone, for since these newcomers had been with us, our old friends haddisappeared, and we had been without fish. Having gone over to Long Island, to look for the hog which had been seen there, I found it to be one of thesows left by Captain Furneaux; the same that was in the possession of thenatives when we were last here. From the supposition of its being a boar, Ihad carried over a sow to leave with him; but on seeing my mistake, broughther back, as the leaving her there would answer no end. 

Early in the morning of the 5th, our old friends made us a visit, andbrought a seasonable supply of fish. At the same time I embarked in thepinnace, with Messrs Forsters and Sparrman, in order to proceed up thesound. I was desirous of finding the termination of it; or rather of seeingif I could find any passage out to sea by the S. E. , as I suspected fromsome discoveries I had made when first here. In our way up, we met withsome fishers, of whom we made the necessary enquiry; and they all agreedthat there was no passage to the sea by the head of the sound. As weproceeded, we, some time after, met a canoe conducted by four men comingdown the sound. These confirmed what the others had said, in regard tothere being no passage to the sea the way we were going; but gave us tounderstand that there was one to the east, in the very place where Iexpected to find it. I now laid aside the scheme of going to the head ofthe sound, and proceeded to this arm, which is on the S. E. Side, about fouror five leagues above the isle of Motuara. 

A little within the entrance on the S. E. Side, at a place calledKotieghenooee, we found a large settlement of the natives. , The chief, whose name was Tringo-boohee, and his people, whom we found to be some ofthose who had lately been on board the ship, received us with greatcourtesy. They seemed to be pretty numerous both here and in theneighbourhood. Our stay with them was short, as the information they gaveus encouraged us to pursue the object we had in view. [5] Accordingly, weproceeded down the arm E. N. E. And E. By N. , leaving several fine coves onboth sides, and at last found it to open into the strait by a channel abouta mile wide, in which ran out a strong tide; having also observed onesetting down the arm, all the time we had been in it. It was now about fouro'clock in the afternoon, and in less than an hour after, this tide ceased, and was succeeded by the flood, which came in with equal strength. 

The outlet lies S. E. By E. And N. W. By W. And nearly in the direction ofE. S. E. And W. N. W. From Cape Terrawhitte. We found thirteen fathoms water alittle within the entrance, clear ground. It seemed to me that a leadingwind was necessary to go in and out of this passage, on account of therapidity of the tides. I, however, had but little time to make observationsof this nature, as night was at hand, and I had resolved to return onboard. On that account I omitted visiting a large _hippa_, or strong-hold, built on an elevation on the north side, and about a mile or twowithin the entrance, The inhabitants of it, by signs, invited us to go tothem; but, without paying any regard to them, we proceeded directly for theship, which we reached by ten o'clock, bringing with us some fish we hadgot from the natives, and a few birds we had shot. Amongst the latter weresome of the same kinds of ducks we found in Dusky Bay, and we have reasonto believe that they are all to be met with here. For the natives knew themall by the drawings, and had a particular name for each. 

On the 6th, wind at N. E. , gloomy weather with rain. Our old friends havingtaken up their abode near us, one of them, whose name was Pedero, (a man ofsome note, ) made me a present of a staff of honour, such as the chiefsgenerally carry. In return, I dressed him in a suit of old clothes, ofwhich he was not a little proud. He had a fine person, and a good presence, and nothing but his colour distinguished him from an European. Having gothim, and another, into a communicative mood, we began to enquire of them ifthe Adventure had been there during my absence; and they gave us tounderstand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt, that, soon after wewere gone, she arrived; that she staid between ten and twenty days, and hadbeen gone ten months. They likewise asserted that neither she, nor anyother ship, had been stranded on the coast, as had been reported. Thisassertion, and the manner in which they related the coming and going of theAdventure, made me easy about her; but did not wholly set aside oursuspicions of a disaster having happened to some other strangers. Besideswhat has been already related, we had been told that a ship had lately beenhere, and was gone to a place called Terato, which is on the north side ofthe strait. Whether this story related to the former or no, I cannot say. Whenever I questioned the natives about it, they always denied allknowledge of it, and for some time past, had avoided mentioning it. It wasbut a few days before, that one man received a box on the ear for naming itto some of our people. 

After breakfast I took a number of hands over to Long Island, in order tocatch the sow, to put her to the boar and remove her to some other place;but we returned without seeing her. Some of the natives had been there notlong before us, as their fires were yet burning; and they had undoubtedlytaken her away. Pedero dined with us, eat of every thing at table, anddrank more wine than any one of us, without being in the least affected byit. 

The 7th, fresh gales at N. E. With continual rain. 

The 8th, fore-part rain, remainder fair weather. We put two pigs, a boar, and a sow, on shore, in the cove next without Cannibal Cove; so that it ishardly possible all the methods I have taken to stock this country withthese animals should fail. We had also reason to believe that some of thecocks and hens which I left here still existed, although we had not seenany of them; for an hen's egg was, some days before, found in the woodsalmost new laid. 

On the 9th, wind westerly or N. W. , squally with rain. In the morning weunmoored, and shifted our birth farther out of the cove, for the more readygetting to sea the next morning; for at present the caulkers had notfinished the sides, and till this work was done we could not sail. Ourfriends having brought us a very large and seasonable supply of fish, Ibestowed on Pedero a present of an empty oil-jar, which made him as happyas a prince. Soon after, he and his party left the cove, and retired totheir proper place of abode, with all the treasure they had received fromus. I believe that they gave away many of the things they, at differenttimes, got from us, to their friends and neighbours, or else parted withthem to purchase peace of their more powerful enemies; for we never saw anyof our presents after they were once in their possession: And every time wevisited them they were as much in want of hatchets, nails, &c. To allappearance, as if they never had had any among them. 

I am satisfied that the people in this sound, who are, upon the whole, pretty numerous, are under no regular form of government, or so united asto form one body politic. The head of each tribe, or family, seems to berespected; and that respect may, on some occasions, command obedience; butI doubt if any amongst them have either a right or power to enforce it. Theday we were with Tringo-boohee, the people came from all parts to see us, which he endeavoured to prevent. But though he went so far as to throwstones at some, I observed that very few paid any regard either to hiswords or actions; and yet this man was spoken of as a chief of some note. Ihave, before, made some remarks on the evils attending these people forwant of union among themselves; and the more I was acquainted with them, the more I found it to be so. Notwithstanding they are cannibals, they arenaturally of a good disposition, and have not a little humanity. 

In the afternoon a party of us went ashore into one of the coves, wherewere two families of the natives variously employed; some sleeping, somemaking mats, others roasting fish and fir roots, and one girl, I observed, was heating of stones. Curious to know what they were for, I remained nearher. As soon as the stones were made hot, she took them out of the fire, and gave them to an old woman, who was sitting in the hut. She placed themin a heap, laid over them a handful of green celery, and over that a coarsemat, and then squatted herself down, on her heels, on the top of all; thusmaking a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on which she sat as close as a hare onher seat. I should hardly have mentioned this operation, if I had thoughtit had no other view than to warm the old woman's backside. I rathersuppose it was intended to cure some disorder she might have on her, whichthe steams arising from the green celery might be a specific for. I was ledto think so by there being hardly any celery in the place, we havinggathered it long before; and grass, of which there was great plenty, wouldhave kept the stones from burning the mat full as well, if that had beenall that was meant. Besides, the woman looked to me sickly, and not in agood state of health. 

Mr Wales, from time to time, communicated to me the observations he hadmade in this Sound for determining the longitude, the mean results of whichgive 174° 25' 7" 1/2 east, for the bottom of Ship Cove, where theobservations were made; and the latitude of it is 41° 5' 50" 1/2 south. Inmy chart, constituted in my former voyage, this place is laid down in 184°54' 30" west, equal to 175° 5' 30" east. The error of the chart istherefore 0° 40' 0", and nearly equal to what was found at Dusky Bay; bywhich it appears that the whole of Tavai-poenamoo is laid down 40' too fareast in the said chart, as well as in the journal of the voyage. But theerror in Eaheino-mauwe, is not more than half a degree, or thirty minutes;because the distance between. Queen Charlotte's Sound and Cape Palliser hasbeen found to be greater by 10' of longitude than it is laid down in thechart. I mention these errors, not from a fear that they will affect eithernavigation or geography, but because I have no doubt of their existence;for, from the multitude of observations which Mr Wales took, the situationof few parts of the world is better ascertained than Queen Charlotte'sSound. Indeed, I might, with equal truth, say the same of all the otherplaces where we made any stay; for Mr Wales, whose abilities are equal tohis assiduity, lost no one observation that could possibly be obtained. Even the situation of those islands, which we passed without touching atthem, is, by means of Kendal's watch, determined with almost equalaccuracy. The error of the watch from Otaheite to this place was only 43'39" 1/2 in longitude, reckoning at the rate it was found to go at, at thatisland and at Tanna; but by reckoning at the rate it was going when last atQueen Charlotte's Sound, and from the time of our leaving it, to our returnto it again, which was near a year, the error was 19' 31", 25 in time, or4° 52' 48" 1/4 in longitude. This error cannot be thought great, if weconsider the length of time, and that we had gone over a space equal toupwards of three-fourths of the equatorial circumference of the earth, andthrough all the climates and latitudes from 9° to 71°. Mr Wales found itsrate of going here to be that of gaining 12", 576, on mean time, per day. 

The mean result of all the observations he made for ascertaining thevariation of the compass and the dip of the south end of the needle, thethree several times we had been here, gave 14° 9' 1/5 east for the former;and 64° 36" 2/3 for the latter. He also found, from very accurateobservations, that the time of high-water preceded the moon's southing, onthe full and change days, by three hours; and that the greatest rise andfall of the water was five feet ten inches, and a half; but there wereevident tokens on the beach, of its having risen two feet higher than everit did in the course of his experiments. 

 [1] According to Mr G. F. The sufferings of the crew, for want of proper nourishment, were exceedingly distressing, and some of the officers who had made several voyages round the world acknowledged, that they had never before so thoroughly loathed a salt diet. It was owing, he says, to their having such an excellent preservative as sour-krout on board, that the scurvy did not at this time make any considerable progress among them; but their situation was indeed wretched enough, without the horrors of that disease. --E. 

 [2] "Several large broken rocks project into the sea from the island, on all sides. A heap of large stones formed a kind of beach, beyond which the shore rose very steep, and in some parts perpendicular. The rocks of this island consisted of the common yellowish clayey stone, which we found at New Zealand; and in some places we met with small bits of porous reddish lava, which seemed to be decaying, but made us suspect this island to have had a volcano. The vegetables which we found upon it, throve with great luxuriance in a rich stratum of black mould, accumulated during ages past, from decaying trees and plants. The greatest number of species we met with were well known to us, as belonging to the flora of New Zealand, but this appeared with all the advantages which a milder climate, and an exuberant soil could give them, and they were united with the productions of New Caledonia, and the New Hebrides. Altogether this little deserted spot was very pleasing, and were it larger would be unexceptionable for an European settlement. "--G. F. 

 Notwithstanding the diminutive size of this island, the advantages it presented, especially as to the cultivation of the flax-plant, were sufficient to induce the British government to erect a settlement on it, which was effected by a detachment from Port Jackson under the command of Lieutenant King in 1788. The reader who desires particular information respecting its progress, will be amply supplied with it in Collins's account of New South Wales. It may perhaps be sufficient to inform him, that though in 1790 the colony consisted of 498 persons, and in 1796, of 889, and though very great expence and pains were employed to ensure its prosperity, yet every year's experience proved that the expectations entertained of its importance and benefits were vastly over-rated, and in consequence it was at last abandoned. In the opinion of Collins, Van Diemen's island presents in every respect a more advantageous spot for a settlement. --E. 

 [3] "They continued from time to time to ask if we were displeased with them, and seemed to be very apprehensive that our present protestations of friendship were not quite sincere. We suspected from this circumstance, that a fatal misunderstanding had happened between the natives and the crew of some European ship, and we naturally thought of our consort the Adventure. "--G. F. 

 [4] The natives were repeatedly questioned, and in every conversation we discovered some additional circumstances, by which the fact was more clearly established. At last, however, observing that our enquiries on this subject were frequently repeated, they resolved to give us no further trouble, and by threats stopped short one of their own brethren, who had been prevailed upon to speak once more on the subject. Captain Cook being very desirous of obtaining some certainty concerning the fate of the Adventure, called Peeterre and another native into the cabin, both of whom denied that any harm had been done to the Europeans. We made two pieces of paper, to represent the two ships, and drew the figure of the sound on a larger piece; then drawing the two ships into the sound, and out of it again, as often as they had touched at and left it, including our last departure, we stopped a while, and at last proceeded to bring our ship in again: But the natives interrupted us, and taking up the paper which represented the Adventure, they brought it into the harbour, and drew it out again, counting on their fingers how many moons she had been gone. This circumstance gave us two-fold pleasure, since, at the same time that we were persuaded our consort had safely sailed from hence, we had to admire the sagacity of the natives. Still, however, there was something mysterious in the former accounts, which intimated that some Europeans were killed; and we continued to doubt whether we had rightly understood this part of their conversation, till we received more certain intelligence at our return to the Cape of Good Hope. "-- G. F. 

 [5] The reader will think the following incident and remark worthy of being preserved; "After staying here about a quarter of an hour, Captain Cook re-embarked with us, which was the more advisable, as many of the natives, who arrived last, brought their arms, and the whole crowd now amounted to two hundred and upwards, a much greater number than we had suspected the sound to contain, or had ever seen together. We had already put off, when a sailor acquainted the captain, that he had bought a bundle of fish from one of the natives, for which he had not paid him. Captain Cook took the last nail which was left, and calling to the native, threw it on the beach at his feet. The savage being offended, or thinking himself attacked, picked up a stone, and threw it into the boat with great force, but luckily without hitting any one of us. We now called to him again, and pointed to the nail which we had thrown towards him. As soon as he had seen it, and picked it up, he laughed at his own petulance, and seemed highly pleased with our conduct towards him. This circumstance, with a little rashness on our part, might have become very fatal to us, or might at least have involved us in a dangerous quarrel. If we had resented the affront of being pelted with a stone, the whole body would have joined in the cause of their countryman, and we must have fallen an easy prey to their numbers, being at the distance of five or six leagues from the ship, without any hopes of assistance. "--G. F. 

CHAPTER IV. 

FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND. 

SECTION I. 

_The Run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego, with the Range from CapeDeseada to Christmas Sound, and Description of that Part of the Coast. _

At day-break on the 10th, with a fine breeze at W. N. W. , we weighed andstood out of the Sound; and, after getting round the Two Brothers, steeredfor Cape Campbell, which is at the S. W. Entrance of the Strait, all sailsset, with a fine breeze at north. At four in the afternoon, we passed theCape, at the distance of four or five leagues, and then steered S. S. E. 1/2E. With the wind at N. W. , a gentle gale, and cloudy weather. 

Next morning the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced us moreto the east than I intended. At seven o'clock in the evening, the snowymountains bore W. By S. , and Cape Palliser N. 1/2 W. , distant sixteen orseventeen leagues; from which cape I, for the third time, took mydeparture. After a few hours calm, a breeze springing up at north, westeered S. By E. All sails set, with a view of getting into the latitude of54° or 55°; my intention being to cross this vast ocean nearly in theseparallels, and so as to pass over those parts which were left unexploredthe preceding summer. 

In the morning of the 12th, the wind increased to a fine gale: At noon weobserved in latitude 43° 13' 30" S. , longitude 176° 41' E. ; anextraordinary fish of the whale kind was seen, which some called a seamonster. I did not see it myself. In the afternoon, our old companions thepintado peterels began to appear. [1]

On the 13th, in the morning, the wind veered to W. S. W. At seven, seeing theappearance of land to S. W. , we hauled up towards it, and soon found it tobe a fog-bank. Afterwards we steered S. E. By S. , and soon after saw a seal. At noon, latitude, by account, 44° 25', longitude 177° 31' E. Foggyweather, which continued all the afternoon. At six in the evening, the windveered to N. E. By N. , and increased to a fresh gale, attended with thickhazy weather; course steered S. E. 1/4 S. 

On the 14th, a. M. Saw another seal. At noon, latitude 45° 54', longitude179° 29' E. 

On the 15th, a. M. The wind veered to the westward; the fog cleared away, but the weather continued cloudy. At noon, latitude 47° 30', longitude 178°19' W. ; for, having passed the meridian of 180° E. , I now reckon mylongitude west of the first meridian, viz. Greenwich. In the evening heardpenguins, and the next morning saw some sea or rock weed. At noon a freshgale from the west and fine weather. Latitude observed 49° 33', longitude175° 31' W. 

Next morning fresh gales and hazy weather; saw a seal and several pieces ofweed. At noon, latitude 51° 12', longitude 173° 17' W. The wind veered tothe N. And N. E. By N. , blew a strong gale by squalls, which split an oldtopgallant sail, and obliged us to double-reef the top-sails; but in theevening the wind moderated, and veered to W. N. W. , when we loosed a reef outof each top-sail; and found the variation of the compass to be 9° 52' E. , being then in the latitude 51° 47', longitude 172° 21' W. , and the nextmorning, the 18th, in the latitude of 52° 25', longitude 170° 45' W. , itwas 10° 26' E. Towards noon, had moderate but cloudy weather, and a greatswell from the west: Some penguins and pieces of sea-weed seen. 

On the 19th, steered E. S. E, with a very fresh gale at north, hazy dirtyweather. At noon, latitude 53° 43', longitude 166° 15' W. 

On the 20th, steered E. By S. , with a moderate breeze at north, attendedwith thick hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54° 8', longitude 162° 18' W. 

On the 21st, winds mostly from the N. E. , a fresh gale attended with thick, hazy, dirty weather. Course S. E. By S. ; latitude, at noon, 55° 31', longitude 160° 29'; abundance of blue peterels and some penguins seen. 

Fresh gales at N. W. By N. And N. By W. , and hazy till towards noon of the22d, when the weather cleared up, and we observed in latitude 55° 48' S. , longitude 156° 56' W. In the afternoon had a few hours calm; after that, the wind came at S. S. E. And S. E. By S. A light breeze, with which westeered east northerly. In the night the aurora australis was visible, butvery faint, and no ways remarkable. 

On the 23d, in the latitude of 55° 46' S. , longitude 156° 13' W. , thevariation was 9° 42' E. We had a calm from ten in the morning till six inthe evening, when a breeze sprung up at west; at first it blew a gentlegale, but afterwards freshened. Our course was now E. 1/2 N. 

On the 24th, a fresh breeze at N. W. By W. And N. By W. At noon, in latitude55° 38' S. , longitude 153° 37' W. , foggy in the night, but next day had afine gale at N. W. , attended with clear pleasant weather; course steered E. By N. In the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 8' S. , longitude 148°10' W. , the variation, by the mean of two compasses, was 6° 35' E. 

Having a steady fresh gale at N. N. W. On the 26th and 27th, we steered east;and at noon on the latter were in latitude 55° 6' S. , longitude 138° 56' W. 

I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came toa resolution to steer directly for the west entrance of the Straits ofMagalhaeus, with a view of coasting the out, or south side of Terra delFuego round Cape Horn to the strait Le Maire. As the world has but a veryimperfect knowledge of this shore, I thought the coasting of it would be ofmore advantage, both to navigation and to geography, than any thing I couldexpect to find in a higher latitude. In the afternoon of this day, the windblew in squalls, and carried away the main top-gallant mast. 

A very strong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on the 28th, obligedus to double-reef the fore and main top-sail to hand the mizen top-sail, and get down the fore top-gallant yard. In the morning, the bolt rope ofthe main top-sail broke, and occasioned the sail to be split. I haveobserved that the ropes to all our sails, the square sails especially, arenot of a size and strength sufficient to wear out the canvass. At noon, latitude 55° 20' S. , longitude 134° 16' W. , a great swell from N. W. :Albatrosses and blue peterels seen. 

Next day towards noon, the wind abating, we loosed all the reefs out of thetop-sails, rigged another top-gallant mast, and got the yards across. P. M. Little wind, and hazy weather; at midnight calm, that continued till noonthe next day, when a breeze sprung up at east, with which we stretched tothe northward. At this time we were in the latitude 55° 32' S. , longitude128° 45' W. ; some albatrosses and peterels seen. At eight, p. M. , the windveering to N. E. , we tacked and stood to E. S. E. 

On the 1st of December, thick hazy weather, with drizzling rain, and amoderate breeze of wind, which, at three o'clock p. M. Fell to a calm; atthis time in latitude 55° 41' S. , longitude 127° 5' W. After four hourscalm, the fog cleared away, and we got a wind at S. E. With which we stoodN. E. 

Next day, a fresh breeze at S. E. And hazy foggy weather, except a few hoursin the morning, when we found the variation to be 1° 28' E. Latitude 55°17', longitude 125° 41' W. The variation after this was supposed toincrease; for on the 4th, in the morning, being in latitude 53° 31', longitude 121° 31' W. , it was 3° 16' E. ; in the evening, in latitude 53°13', longitude 119° 46' W. , it was 3° 28' E. ; and on the 5th, at sixo'clock in the evening, in latitude 53° 8', longitude 115° 58' W. , it was4° 1' E. 

For more than twenty-four hours, having had a fine gale at south, thisenabled us to steer east, with very little deviation to the north; and thewind now altering to S. W. And blowing a steady fresh breeze, we continuedto steer east, inclining a little to south. 

On the 6th, had some snow-showers. In the evening, being in latitude 53°13', longitude 111° 12', the variation was 4° 58' E. ; and the next morning, being in latitude 58° 16', longitude 109° 33', it was 5° 1' E. 

The wind was now at west, a fine pleasant gale, sometimes with showers ofrain. Nothing remarkable happened, till the 9th, at noon, when being in thelatitude of 53° 37', longitude 103° 44' W. , the wind veered to N. E. , andafterwards came insensibly round to the south, by the E. And S. E. , attendedwith cloudy hazy weather, and some showers of rain. 

On the 10th, a little before noon, latitude 54°, longitude 102° 7' west, passed a small bed of sea-weed. In the afternoon the wind veered to S. W. , blew a fresh gale, attended with dark cloudy weather. We steered east halfa point north; and the next day, at six in the evening, being in latitude53° 35', longitude 95° 52' west, the variation was 9° 58' east. Many andvarious sorts of albatrosses about the ship. 

On the 12th, the wind veered to the west, N. W. ; and in the evening tonorth; and, at last, left us to a calm; that continued till midnight, whenwe got a breeze at south; which, soon after, veering to, and fixing at, west, we steered east; and on the 14th, in the morning, found the variationto be 13° 25' east, latitude 53° 25', longitude 87° 53' west; and in theafternoon, being in the same latitude, and the longitude of 86° 2' west, itwas 15° 3' east, and increased in such a manner, that on the 15th, in thelatitude of 53° 30', longitude 82° 23' west, it was 17° east; and the nextevening, in the latitude of 53° 25', longitude 78° 40', it was 17° 38'east. About this time, we saw a penguin and a piece of weed; and the nextmorning, a seal and some diving peterels. For the three last days, the windhad been at west, a steady fresh gale, attended, now and then, with showersof rain or hail. 

At six in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in the same latitude asabove, and in the longitude of 77° 10' west, the variation was 18° 33'east; and in the afternoon it was 21° 38, being at that time in latitude53° 16' S. , longitude 75° 9' west. In the morning, as well as in theafternoon, I took some observations to determine the longitude by thewatch; and the results, reduced to noon, gave 76° 18' 30" west. At the sametime, the longitude, by my reckoning, was 76° 17' west. But I have reasonto think, that we were about half a degree more to the west than either theone or the other; our latitude, at the same time, was 53° 21' S. 

We steered E. By N. And E. 1/2 N. All this day, under all the sail we couldcarry, with a fine fresh gale at N. W. By W. In expectation of seeing theland before night; but not making it till ten o'clock, we took in thestudding-sails, top-gallant sails, and a reef in each top-sail, and steeredE. N. E. , in order to make sure of falling in with Cape Deseada. 

Two hours after, we made the land, extending from N. E. By N. To E. By S. About six leagues distant. On this discovery, we wore and brought-to, withthe ship's head to the south; and having sounded, found seventy-fivefathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before us could beno other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entranceto the Straits of Magalhaens. 

As this was the first run that had been made directly across this ocean, ina high southern latitude, [2] I have been a little particular in notingevery circumstance that appeared in the least material: and, after all, Imust observe, that I never made a passage any where of such length, or evenmuch shorter, where so few interesting circumstances occurred. For, if Iexcept the variation of the compass, I know of nothing else worth notice. The weather had been neither unusually stormy nor cold. Before we arrivedin the latitude of 50°, the mercury in the thermometer fell gradually fromsixty to fifty; and after we arrived in the latitude of 55°, it wasgenerally between forty-seven and forty-five; once or twice it fell toforty-three. These observations were made at noon. 

I have now done with the southern Pacific Ocean; and flatter myself that noone will think that I have left it unexplored; or that more could have beendone, in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been done inthis. 

Soon after we left New Zealand, Mr Wales contrived, and fixed up, aninstrument, which very accurately measured the angle the ship rolled, whensailing large and in a great sea; and that in which she lay down, whensailing upon a wind. The greatest angle he observed her to roll was 38°. This was on the 6th of this month, when the sea was not unusually high; sothat it cannot be reckoned the greatest roll she had made. The most heobserved her to heel or lie down, when sailing upon a wind, was 18°; andthis was under double-reefed top-sails and courses. 

On the 18th, at three in the morning, we sounded again, and found onehundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. We now made sail with afresh gale at N. W. , and steered S. E. By E. Along the coast. It extendedfrom Cape Deseada, which bore north 7° east, to E S. E. ; a pretty highragged isle, which lies near a league from the main, and S. , 18° E. Sixleagues E. From Cape Deseada, bore N. 49° E. Distant four leagues; and itobtained the name of Landfall. At four o'clock, we were north and south ofthe high land of Cape Deseada, distant about nine leagues; so that we sawnone of the low rocks said to lie off it. The latitude of this Cape isabout 53° S. , longitude 74° 40' west. 

Continuing to range the coast, at about two leagues distance, at eleveno'clock we passed a projecting point, which I called Cape Gloucester. Itshews a round surface of considerable height, and has much the appearanceof being an island. It lies S. S. E. 1/2 E. Distant seventeen leagues fromthe isle of Landfall. The coast between them forms two bays, strewed withrocky islets, rocks, and breakers. The coast appeared very broken with manyinlets; or rather it seemed to be composed of a number of islands. The landis very mountainous, rocky, and barren, spotted here and there with tuftsof wood, and patches of snow. At noon Cape Gloucester bore north, distanteight miles, and the most advanced point of land to the S. E. , which wejudged to be Cape Noir, bore S. E. By S. , distant seven or eight leagues. Latitude observed 54° 13' S. Longitude, made from Cape Deseada, 54' E. FromCape Gloucester, off which lies a small rocky island, the direction of thecoast is nearly S. E. ; but to Cape Noir, for which we steered, the course isS. S. E. , distant about ten leagues. 

At three o'clock we passed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of considerableheight, and the S. W. Point of a large island that seemed to lie detached, aleague, or a league and a half, from the main land. The land of the cape, when at a distance from it, appeared to be an island disjoined from theother; but, on a nearer approach, we found it connected by a low neck ofland. At the point of the cape are two rocks; the one peaked like a sugar-loaf, the other not so high, and shewing a rounder surface; and S. By E. , two leagues from the cape, are two other rocky islets. This cape issituated in the latitude of 54° 30' S. , longitude 73° 33' W. 

After passing the two islets, we steered E. S. E. , crossing the great bay ofSt Barbara. We but just saw the land in the bottom of it, which could notbe less than seven or eight leagues from us. There was a space, lying inthe direction of E. N. E. From Cape Noir, where no land was to be seen: thismay be the channel of St Barbara, which opens into the straits ofMagalhaens, as mentioned by Frezier. We found the cape to agree very wellwith his description, which shews that he laid down the channel from goodmemoirs. At ten o'clock, drawing near the S. E. Point of the bay, which, lies nearly in the direction of S. 60° E. From Cape Noir, eighteen leaguesdistant, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on. 

At two o'clock in the morning of the 19th, having made sail, we steeredS. E. By E. Along the coast, and soon passed the S. E. Point of the bay of StBarbara, which I called Cape Desolation, because near it commenced the mostdesolate and barren country I ever saw. It is situated in the latitude of54° 55' S. , longitude 72° 12' W. About four leagues to the east of thiscape is a deep inlet, at the entrance of which lies a pretty large island, and some others of less note. Nearly in this situation some charts place achannel leading into the straits of Magalhaens, under the name of straitsof Jelouzel. At ten o'clock, being about a league and a half from the land, we sounded, and found sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones andshells. 

The wind, which had been fresh at N. By W. , began to abate, and at noon itfell calm, when we observed in latitude 55° 20' S. , longitude made fromCape Deseada 3° 24' E. In this situation we were about three leagues fromthe nearest shore, which was that of an island. This I named Gilbert Isle, after my master. It is nearly of the same height with the rest of thecoast, and shews a surface composed of several peaked rocks unequally high. A little to the S. E. Of it are some smaller islands, and, without them, breakers. 

I have before observed that this is the most desolate coast I ever saw. Itseems entirely composed of rocky mountains without the least appearance ofvegetation. These mountains terminate in horrible precipices, whose craggysummits spire up to a vast height, so that hardly any thing in nature canappear with a more barren and savage aspect than the whole of this country. The inland mountains were covered with snow, but those on the sea-coastwere not. We judged the former to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and the latter to be islands, so ranged as apparently to form a coast. 

After three hours calm we got a breeze at S. E. By E. , and having made ashort trip to south, stood in for the land; the most advanced point ofwhich, that we had in sight, bore east, distant ten leagues. This is alofty promontory, lying E. S. E, nineteen leagues from Gilbert isle, andsituated in latitude 55° 26' S, longitude 70° 25' W. Viewed from thesituation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers; and, withinthem, a hill shaped like a sugar-loaf. This wild rock, therefore, obtainedthe name of York Minster. Two leagues to the westward of this head appeareda large inlet, the west point of which we fetched in with by nine o'clock, when we tacked in forty-one fathoms water, half a league from the shore; tothe westward of this inlet was another, with several islands lying in theentrance. 

During the night between the 19th and 20th we had little wind easterly, which in the morning veered to N. E. And N. N. E. , but it was too faint to beof use; and at ten we had a calm, when we observed the ship to drive fromoff the shore out to sea. We had made the same observation the day before. This must have been occasioned by a current; and the melting of the snowincreasing, the inland waters will cause a stream to run out of most ofthese inlets. At noon we observed in latitude 55° 39' 30" S. , York Minsterthen bearing N. 15° E. , distant five leagues; and Round-hill, just peepingabove the horizon, which we judged to belong to the isles of St Ildefonso, E. 25° S. , ten or eleven leagues distant. At ten o'clock, a breezespringing up at E. By S. , I took this opportunity to stand in for the land, being desirous of going into one of the many ports which seemed open toreceive us, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit ourstock of wood and water. 

In standing in for an opening, which appeared on the east side of YorkMinster, we had forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms water, abottom of small stones and shells. When we had the last soundings, we werenearly in the middle between the two points that form the entrance to theinlet, which we observed to branch into two arms, both of them lying innearly north, and disjoined by an high rocky point. We stood for theeastern branch as being clear of islets; and after passing a black rockyone, lying without the point just mentioned, we sounded, and found nobottom with a line of an hundred and seventy fathoms. This was altogetherunexpected, and a circumstance that would not have been regarded if thebreeze had continued; but at this time it fell calm, so that it was notpossible to extricate ourselves from this disagreeable situation. Two boatswere hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow; but they would have availedlittle, had not a breeze sprung up about eight o'clock at S. W. , which putit in my power either to stand out to sea, or up the inlet. Prudence seemedto point out the former, but the desire of finding a good port, and oflearning something of the country, getting the better of every otherconsideration, I resolved to stand in; and, as night was approaching, oursafety depended on getting to an anchor. With this view we continued tosound, but always had an unfathomable depth. 

Hauling up under the east side of the land which divided the two arms, andseeing a small cove ahead, I sent a boat to sound; and we kept as near theshore as the flurries from the land would permit, in order to be able toget into this place, if there should be anchorage. The boat soon returned, and informed us that there was thirty and twenty-five fathoms water, a fullcable's length from the shore; here we anchored in thirty fathoms, thebottom sand and broken shells; and carried out a kedge and hawser to steadythe ship for the night. 

 [1] Mr. G. F. Describes this whale as being about twelve yards long, having an oblong blunt head, on which there were two longitudinal furrows, and as many upright ridges. It had small eyes, two semi-lunar apertures, from whence it occasionally spouted the water, and it was mottled all over with white spots. It had two large fins behind the head, but none on the back. In his opinion this extraordinary creature was entirely unknown before. --E. 

 [2] It is not to be supposed that I could know at this time, that the Adventure had made the passage before me. 

SECTION II. 

_Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an Account of the Country and itsInhabitants. _

The morning of the 21st was calm and pleasant. After breakfast I set outwith two boats to look for a more secure station. We no sooner got round, or above the point, under which the ship lay, than we found a cove in whichwas anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, the bottom stones andsand. At the head of the cove was a stony beach, a valley covered withwood, and a stream of fresh water, so that there was every thing we couldexpect to find in such a place, or rather more; for we shot three geese outof four that we saw, and caught some young ones, which we afterwards letgo. 

After discovering and sounding this cove, I sent Lieutenant Clerke, whocommanded the other boat, on board, with orders to remove the ship intothis place, while I proceeded farther up the inlet. I presently saw thatthe land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before, was an island, at the north end of which the two channels united. Afterthis I hastened on board, and found every thing in readiness to weigh, which was accordingly done, and all the boats sent ahead to tow the shipround the point. But at that moment a light breeze came in from the sea tooscant to fill our sails, so that we were obliged to drop the anchor again, for fear of falling upon the point, and to carry out a kedge to windward. That being done, we hove up the anchor, warped up to, and weighed thekedge, and proceeding round the point under our stay-sails; there anchoredwith the best bower in twenty fathoms; and moored with the other bower, which lay to the north, in thirteen fathoms. In this position we were shutin from the sea by the point above-mentioned, which was in one with theextremity of the inlet to the east. Some islets, off the next point aboveus, covered us from the N. W. , from which quarter the wind had the greatestfetch, and our distance from the shore was about one-third of a mile. 

Thus situated we went to work, to clear a place to fill water, to cut wood, and to set up a tent for the reception of a guard, which was thoughtnecessary, as we had already discovered that, barren as this country is, itwas not without people, though we had not yet seen any. Mr Wales also gothis observatory and instruments on shore; but it was with the greatestdifficulty he could find a place of sufficient stability, and clear of themountains, which every where surrounded us, to set them up in; and at lasthe was obliged to content himself with the top of a rock not more than ninefeet over. 

Next day I sent Lieutenants Clerke and Pickersgill, accompanied by some ofthe other officers, to examine and draw a sketch of the channel on theother side of the island; and I went myself in another boat, accompanied bythe botanists, to survey the northern parts of the sound. In my way Ilanded on the point of a low isle covered with herbage, part of which hadbeen lately burnt: We likewise saw a hut, signs sufficient that people werein the neighbourhood. After I had taken the necessary bearings, weproceeded round the east end of Burnt Island, and over to what we judged tobe the main of Terra del Fuego, where we found a very fine harbourencompassed by steep rocks of vast height, down which ran many limpidstreams of water; and at the foot of the rocks some tufts of trees, fit forlittle else but fuel. [1]

This harbour, which I shall distinguish by the name of the Devil's Bason, is divided, as it were, into two, an inner. And an outer one; and thecommunication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. In theouter bason I found thirteen and seventeen fathoms water, and in the innerseventeen and twenty-three. This last is as secure a place as can be, butnothing can be more gloomy. The vast height of the savage rocks whichencompass it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, of the meridiansun. The outer harbour is not quite free from this inconvenience, but farmore so than the other; it is also rather more commodious, and equallysafe. It lies in the direction of north, a mile and a half distant fromthe east end of Burnt Island. I likewise found a good anchoring-place alittle to the west of this harbour, before a stream of water, that comesout of a lake or large reservoir, which is continually supplied by acascade falling into it. 

Leaving this place, we proceeded along the shore to the westward, and foundother harbours which I had not time to look into. In all of them is freshwater, and wood for fuel; but, except these little tufts of bushes, thewhole country is a barren rock, doomed by nature to everlasting sterility. The low islands, and even some of the higher, which lie scattered up anddown the sound, are indeed mostly covered with shrubs and herbage, the soila black rotten turf, evidently composed, by length of time, of decayedvegetables. 

I had an opportunity to verify what we had observed at sea, that the sea-coast is composed of a number of large and small islands, and that thenumerous inlets are formed by the junction of several channels; at least soit is here. On one of these low islands we found several huts, which hadlately been inhabited; and near them was a good deal of celery, with whichwe loaded our boat, and returned on board at seven o'clock in the evening. In this expedition we met with little game; one duck, three or four shags, and about that number of rails or sea-pies, being all we got. The otherboat returned on board some hours before, having found two harbours on thewest side of the other channel; the one large, and the other small, butboth of them safe and commodious; though, by the sketch Mr Pickersgill hadtaken of them, the access to both appeared rather intricate. [2]

I was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of ourmarines. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o'clock the precedingnight. It was supposed that he had fallen overboard, out of the head, wherehe had been last seen, and was drowned. 

Having fine pleasant weather on the 23d, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill inthe cutter to explore the east side of the sound, and went myself in thepinnace to the west side, with an intent to go round the island, underwhich we were at anchor (and which I shall distinguish by the name of ShagIsland), in order to view the passage leading to the harbours MrPickersgill had discovered the day before, on which I made the followingobservations. In coming from sea, leave all the rocks and islands, lyingoff and within York Minster, on your larboard side; and the black rock, which lies off the south end of Shag Island, on your starboard; and whenabreast of the south end of that island, haul over for the west shore, taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will see before you, as theyalways grow on rocks; some of which I have found twelve fathoms underwater; but it is always best to keep clear of them. The entrance to thelarge harbour, or Port Clerke, is just to the north of some low rocks lyingoff a point on Shag Island. This harbour lies in W. By S. , a mile and ahalf, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four fathoms depth, wood andfresh water. About a mile without, or to the southward of Port Clerke, is, or seemed to be, another which I did not examine. It is formed by a largeisland which covers it from the south and east winds. Without this island, that is, between it and York Minster, the sea seemed strewed with islets, rocks, and breakers. In proceeding round the south end of Shag Island, weobserved the shags to breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rock. Someof the old ones we shot, but could not come at the young ones, which are byfar the best eating. On the east side of the island we saw some geese; andhaving with difficulty landed, we killed three, which, at this time, was avaluable acquisition. 

About seven, in the evening, we got on board, where Mr Pickersgill hadarrived but just before. He informed me that the land opposite to ourstation was an island, which he had been round; that on another, more tothe north, be found many _terns_ eggs; and that without the greatisland, between it and the east-head, lay a cove in which were many geese;one only of which he got, beside some young goslings. 

This information of Mr Pickersgill's induced me to make up two shootingparties next day; Mr Pickersgill and his associates going in the cutter, and myself and the botanists in the pinnace. Mr Pickersgill went by theN. E. Side of the large island above-mentioned, which obtained the name ofGoose Island; and I went by the S. W. Side. As soon as we got under theisland we found plenty of shags in the cliffs, but, without staying tospend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on, and presently foundsport enough, for in the south side of the island were abundance of geese. It happened to be the moulting season; and most of them were on shore forthat purpose, and could not fly. There being a great surf, we found greatdifficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when we werelanded; so that hundreds of the geese escaped us, some into the sea, andothers up into the island. We, however, by one means or other, got sixty-two, with which we returned on board all heartily tired; but theacquisition we had made overbalanced every other consideration, and we satdown with a good appetite to supper on part of what the preceding day hadproduced. Mr Pickersgill and his associates had got on board some timebefore us with fourteen geese; so that I was able to make distribution tothe whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of the approachingfestival. For had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, ourChristmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork. 

I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, had beenalongside the ship, and some on board. Little address was required topersuade them to either; for they seemed to be well enough acquainted withEuropeans, and had, amongst them, some of their knives. 

The next morning, the 25th, they made us another visit. I found them to beof the same nation I had formerly seen in Success Bay, and the same whichM. De Bougainville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras; a word whichthese had, on every occasion, in their mouths. They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. I saw not a tall person amongst them. Theyare almost naked; their clothing was a seal-skin; some had two or threesewed together, so as to make a cloak which reached to the knees; but themost of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover theirshoulders, and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women, I wastold, cover their nakedness with the flap of a seal-skin, but in otherrespects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the children, remainedin the canoes. I saw two young children at the breast entirely naked; thusthey are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had withthem bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, andfitted to a staff. I suppose they were intended to kill seals and fish;they may also kill whales with them, as the Esquimaux do. I know not ifthey resemble them in their love of train-oil; but they and every thingthey had smelt most intolerably of it. I ordered them some biscuit, but didnot observe them so fond of it as I had been told. They were much betterpleased when I gave them some medals, knives, &c. [3]

The women and children, as before observed, remained in their canoes. Thesewere made of bark; and in each was a fire, over which the poor creatureshuddled themselves. I cannot suppose that they carry a fire in their canoesfor this purpose only, but rather that it may be always ready to removeashore wherever they land; for let their method of obtaining fire be whatit may, they cannot be always sure of finding dry fuel that will kindlefrom a spark. They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides, which Ijudged were to shelter them when at sea, and to serve as covering to theirhuts on shore, and occasionally to be used for sails. 

They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of ourChristmas cheer. Indeed I believe no one invited them, and for goodreasons; for their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about them, were enough to spoil the appetite of any European; and that would have beena real disappointment, as we had not experienced such fare for some time. Roast and boiled geese, goose-pye, &c. Was a treat little known to us; andwe had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article of ourprovision that was mended by keeping. So that our friends in England didnot, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than we did. 

On the 26th, little wind next to a calm, and fair weather, except in themorning, when we had some showers of rain. In the evening, when it wascold, the natives made us another visit; and it being distressing to seethem stand trembling and naked on the deck, I could not do less than givethem some baize and old canvas to cover themselves. 

Having already completed our water, on the 27th I ordered the wood, tent, and observatory to be got on board; and, as this was work for the day, aparty of us went in two boats to shoot geese, the weather being fine andpleasant. We proceeded round by the south side of Goose Island, and pickedup in all thirty-one. On the east side of the island, to the north of theeast point, is good anchorage, in seventeen fathoms water, where it isentirely land-locked. This is a good place for ships to lie in that arebound to the west. On the north side of this isle I observed three finecoves, in which were both wood and water; but it being near night, I had notime to sound them, though I doubt not there is anchorage. The way to comeat them is by the west end of the island. 

When I returned on board I found every thing got off the shore, and thelaunch in; so that we now only waited for a wind to put to sea. Thefestival, which we celebrated at this place, occasioned my giving it thename of Christmas Sound. The entrance, which is three leagues wide, issituated in the latitude of 55° 27' S. , longitude 70° 16' W. ; and in thedirection of N. 37° W. From St Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. Theseisles are the best landmark for finding the sound. York Minster, which isthe only remarkable land about it, will hardly be known by a stranger, fromany description that can be given of it, because it alters its appearanceaccording to the different situations it is viewed from. Besides the blackrock, which lies off the end of Shag Island, there is another about midwaybetween this and the east shore. A copious description of this sound isunnecessary, as few would be benefited by it. Anchorage, tufts of wood, andfresh-water, will be found in all the coves and harbours. I would advise noone to anchor very near the shore for the sake of having a moderate depthof water, because there I generally found a rocky bottom. 

The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they consist chiefly ofwild fowl, and may probably never be found in such plenty as to supply thecrew of a ship; and fish, so far as we can judge, are scarce. Indeed theplenty of wild-fowl made us pay less attention to fishing. Here are, however, plenty of muscles, not very large, but well tasted; and very goodcelery is to be met with on several of the low islets, and where thenatives have their habitations. The wild-fowl are geese, ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull so often mentioned in this journal under thename of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by our people race-horses, on account of the great swiftness with which they run on the water;for they cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the body in theair. This bird is at the Falkland Islands, as appears by Pernety's Journal. The geese too are there, and seem to be very well described under the nameof bustards. They are much smaller than our English tame geese, but eat aswell as any I ever tasted. They have short black bills and yellow feet. Thegander is all white; the female is spotted black and white, or grey, with alarge white spot on each wing. Besides the bird above-mentioned, here areseveral other aquatic, and some land ones; but of the latter not many. 

From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans, we maysuppose that they do not live here continually, but retire to the northduring the winter. I have often wondered that these people do not clothethemselves better, since Nature has certainly provided materials. Theymight line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquaticbirds; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same skins forother parts of clothing, for I cannot suppose they are scarce with them. They were ready enough to part with those they had to our people, whichthey hardly would have done, had they not known where to have got more. Inshort, of all the nations I have seen, the Pecheras are the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in theworld, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with suchconveniences as may render life in some measure more comfortable. 

Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, andgave sufficient employment to Mr Forster and his party. The tree, whichproduceth the winter's bark; is found here in the woods, as is the holy-leaved barberry; and some other sorts, which I know not, but I believe arecommon in the straits of Magalhaens. We found plenty of a berry, which wecalled the cranberry, because they are nearly of the same colour, size, andshape. It grows on a bushy plant, has a bitterish taste, rather insipid;but may he eaten either raw or in tarts, and is used as food by thenatives. [4]

 [1] "We found many little clefts, which cannot properly be called vallies, where a few shrubs of different species sprang up in a thin layer of swampy soil, being defended against the violence of storms, and exposed to the genial influence of reverberated sun-beams. The rock, of which the whole island consisted, is a coarse granite, composed of feld-spath, quartz, and black mica or glimmer. This rock is in most places entirely naked, without the smallest vegetable particle; but wherever the rains, or melted snows, have washed together some little rubbish, and other particles in decay, it is covered with a coating of minute plants, in growth like mosses, which, forming a kind of turf, about an inch or more in thickness, very easily slip away under the foot, having no firm hold on the rock. In sheltered places a few other plants thrive among these mossy species, and these at last form a sufficient quantity of soil for the nutriment of shrubs. Here we found the species which affords what has been called Winter's Bark; but in this unfriendly situation it was only a shrub about ten feet high, crooked and shapeless. Barren as these rocks appeared, yet almost every plant which we gathered on them was new to us, and some species were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their smell. "--G. F. 

 [2] Mr G. F. Has given a pretty minute description of the country around this sound, and its annual and vegetable productions; but for a reason afterwards stated by Captain Cook, there seems little inducement to copy from it. Those who think otherwise, but who, perhaps, are very few in number, will have recourse to that gentleman's narrative. --E. 

 [3] The reader who is not satisfied with the picture now given of these wretched and disgusting beings, may turn to the abstract of Bougainville's Voyage, quoted in the preceding volume of this collection, which surely ought to suffice. --E. 

 [4] In the cavities and crevices of the huge piles of rocks, forming Terra del Fuego and Staten-land, so very like each other, where a little moisture is preserved by its situation, and where from the continued friction of the loose pieces of rocks, washed and hurried down the steep sides of the rocky masses, a few minute particles form a kind of sand; there in the stagnant water gradually spring up a few algaceous plants from seeds carried thither on the feet, plumage, and bills of birds; these plants form at the end of each season a few atoms of mould which yearly increases; the birds, the sea, or the wind carries from a neighbouring isle, the seeds of some of the mossy plants to this little mould, and they vegetate in it daring the proper season. Though these plants be not absolute mosses, they are however nearly related to them in their habit. We reckon among them the IXIA _pumila_; a new plant which we called DONATIA; a small MELANTHIUM; a minute OXALIS and CALENDULA; another little dioicous plant, called by us PHYLLACHNE, together with the MNIARUM, (see Forster, Nova Genera Plantarum). These plants, or the greater part of them, have a peculiar growth, particularly adapted to these regions, and fit for forming soil and mould on barren rocks. In proportion as they grow up, they spread into various stems and branches, which lie as close together as possible; they spread new seeds, and at last a large spot is covered; the lowermost fibres, roots, stalks, and leaves, gradually decay and push forth on the top new verdant leaves: The decaying lower parts form a kind of peat, or turf, which gradually changes into mould and soil. The close texture of these plants hinders the moisture below from evaporating, and thus furnishes nutriment to the vegetation above, and clothes at last whole hills and isles with a constant verdure. Among these pumilous plants, some of a greater stature begin to thrive, without in the least prejudicing the growth of these creators of mould and soil. Among these plants we reckon a small ARBUTUS, a diminutive myrtle, a little dandelion, a small creeping CRASSULA, the common PINGUICULA _alpina_, a yellow variety of the VIOLA _palustris_, the STATICE _armeria_, or sea pink, a kind of burnet, the RANUNCULUS _lapponicus_, the HOLCUS _odoratus_, the common celery, with the ARABIS _heterophylla_. Soon after we observed, in places that are still covered with the above-mentioned mossy plant, a new rush (JUNCUS _triglumis_, ) a fine AMELLUS, a most beautiful scarlet CHELONE, and lastly, even shrubby plants, viz. A scarlet- flowered shrubby plant of a new genus, which we called EMBOTHRIUM _coccineum_; two new kinds of berberis, (BERBERIS _ilicifolia et mitior_;) an arbutus with cuspidated leaves (ARBUTUS _mucronata_;) and lastly, the tree bearing the winter's bark (DRYMIS _winteri_, ) which, however, in these rocky barren parts of Terra del Fuego never exceeds the size of a tolerable shrub; whereas in Success Bay, on a gentle sloping ground, in a rich and deep soil, it grows to the size of the largest timber. The falling leaves, the rotting mossy plants, and various other circumstances, increase the mould and form a deeper soil, more and more capable of bearing larger plants. Thus they all enlarge the vegetable system, and rescue new animated parts of the creation from their inactive chaotic state. "--F. 

END OF VOLUME FOURTEENTH.