A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND, ETC. IN THE YEAR 1699. 

Wherein are described, The Islands Timor, Roti and Anabao. A passage between the islands Timorand Anabao. Kupang and Laphao Bays. The islands Omba, Fetter, Banda andBird. A description of the coast of New Guinea. The islands Pulo Sabuda, Cockle, King William's, Providence, Gerrit Denis, Anthony Cave's and St. John's. Also a new passage between New Guinea and New Britain. Theislands Ceram, Bonao, Bouro, and several islands before unknown. Thecoast of Java, and Straits of Sunda. Author's arrival at Batavia, Cape ofGood Hope, St. Helena, island of Ascension, etc. Their inhabitants, customs, trade, etc. Harbours, soil, birds, fish, etc. Trees, plants, fruits, etc. 

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Illustrated with maps and draughts: also divers birds, fishes, etc. Notfound in this part of the world, engraven on eighteen copper plates. 

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BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER. 

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LONDON, Printed for James and John Knapton, at The Crown in St. Paul'sChurchyard. 

1729. 

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CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER 1. 

The Author's departure from the coast of New Holland, with the reasons of it. Watersnakes. The Author's arrival at the island Timor. Search for fresh water on the south side of the island, in vain. Fault of the charts. The island Roti. A passage between the islands Timor and Anabao. Fault of the charts. A Dutch fort, called Concordia. Their suspicion of the Author. The island Anabao described. The Author's parley with the Governor of the Dutch fort. They, with great difficulty, obtain leave to water. Kupang Bay. Coasting along the north side of Timor. They find water and an anchoring-place. A description of a small island, seven leagues east from thewatering-bay. Laphao Bay. How the Author was treated by the Portuguese there. Designs of making further searches upon and about the island. Port Sesial. Return to Babao in Kupang Bay. The Author's entertainment at the fort of Concordia. His stay seven weeks at Babao. 

CHAPTER 2. 

A particular description of the island Timor. Its coast. The island Anabao. Fault of the charts. The channel between Timor and Anabao. Kupang Bay. Fort Concordia. A particular description of the bay. The anchoring-place, called Babao. The Malayans here kill all the Europeans they can. Laphao, a Portuguese settlement, described. Port Ciccale. The hills, water, lowlands, soil, woods, metals, in the island Timor. Its trees. Cana-fistula-tree described. Wild figtrees described. Two new sorts of palmtrees described. The fruits of the island. The herbs. Its land animals. Fowls. The ringing-bird. Its fish. Cockle merchants and oysters. Cockles as big as a man's head. Its original natives described. The Portuguese and Dutch settlements. The Malayan language generally spoken here. L'Orantuca on the island Ende. The seasons, winds, and weather at Timor. 

CHAPTER 3. 

Departure from Timor. The islands Omba and Fetter. A burning island. Their missing the Turtle Isles. Banda Isles. Bird Island. They descry the coast of New Guinea. They anchor on the coast of New Guinea. A description of the place, and of a strange fowl found there. Great quantities of mackerel. A white island. They anchor at an island called by the inhabitants Pulo Sabuda. A description of it and its inhabitants and product. The Indians' manner of fishing there. Arrival at Mabo, the north-west cape of New Guinea. A description of it. Cockle Island. Cockles of seventy-eight pound weight. Pigeon Island. The wind hereabouts. An empty cockleshell weighing two hundred fifty-eight pound. King William's Island. A description of it. Plying on the coast of New Guinea. Fault of the charts. Providence Island. They cross the Line. A snake pursued by fish. Squally Island. The main of New Guinea. 

CHAPTER 4. 

The mainland of New Guinea. Its inhabitants. Slingers Bay. Small islands. Gerrit Dennis Isle described. Its inhabitants. Their proas. Anthony Cave's Island. Its inhabitants. Trees full of worms found in the sea. St. John's Island. The mainland of New Guinea. Its inhabitants. The coast described. Cape and Bay St. George. Cape Orford. Another bay. The inhabitants there. A large account of the author's attempts to trade with them. He names the place Port Montague. The country thereabouts described, and its produce. A burning island described. A new passage found. New Britain. Sir George Rook's Island. Long Island and Crown Island, discovered and described. Sir R. Rich's Island. A burning island. A strange spout. A conjecture concerning a new passage southward. King William's Island. Strange whirlpools. Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed. 

CHAPTER 5. 

The Author's return from the coast of New Guinea. A deep channel. Strange tides. The island Ceram described. Strange fowls. The islands Bonao, Bouro, Misacombi, Pentare, Laubana, and Potoro. The passage between Pentare and Laubana. The island Timor. Babao Bay. The island Roti. More islands than are commonly laid down in the charts. Great currents. Whales. Coast of New Holland. The Trial Rocks. The coast of Java. Princes Isle. Straits of Sunda. Thwart-the-way Island. Indian proas, and their traffic. Passage through the Strait. Arrival at Batavia. 

CHAPTER 6. 

The Author continues in Batavia Road to refit, to get provisions. English ships then in the road. Departure from Batavia. Touch at the Cape of Good Hope. And at St. Helena. Arrival at the island of Ascension. A leak sprung. Which being impossible to be stopped, the ship is lost, but the men saved. They find water upon the island. And are brought back to England. 

MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 

MAP. A VIEW OF THE COURSE OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER'S VOYAGE FROM TIMORROUND NEW BRITAIN ETC. 

TABLE 5. TIMOR. 

TABLE 6. TIMOR. 

TABLE 7. TIMOR AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND NEW GUINEA. 

TABLE 8. NEW GUINEA. 

FISH, BAT AND BIRD OF NEW GUINEA:THIS FISH IS OF A PALE RED ALL PARTS OF IT EXCEPT THE EYE TAKEN ON THECOAST OF NEW GUINEA. STRANGE AND LARGE BATS ON THE ISLAND PULO SABUDA IN NEW GUINEA. THIS BIRD'S EYE IS OF A BRIGHT RED. 

TABLE 9. NEW GUINEA. 

TABLE 10. NEW GUINEA ETC. 

TABLE 11. SQUALLY AND OTHER ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW BRITAIN. 

FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA:THIS FISH FINS AND TAIL ARE BLUE ON THE EDGES AND RED IN THE MIDDLE WITHBLUE SPOTS ALL OVER THE BODY BUT THE BELLY WHITE. A PIKE-FISH CONGER ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. THIS FISH IS A PALE RED WITH BLUE SPOTS ON THE BODY, THE LONG TAIL BLUEIN THE MIDDLE AND WHITE ON THE SIDE. A FISH. 

TABLE 12. NEW BRITAIN. 

FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA:THIS FISH HIS FINS AND TAIL IS BLUE WITH BLUE SPOTS ALL OVER THE BODY. FOUR FISH AND A CRUSTACEAN. 

TABLE 13. DAMPIER'S PASSAGE AND ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 

TABLE 14. ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 

TABLE 15. GILOLO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND BOURO. 

BIRDS OF NEW GUINEA:THIS BIRD WAS TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. A STATELY LAND-FOWL ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA DESCRIBED. A STRANGE LAND-FOWL ON THE ISLAND CERAM. 

TABLE 16. BOURO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND AMBO. 

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CHAPTER 1. 

NORTH FROM NEW HOLLAND FOR WATER. 

THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND, WITH THE REASONS OF IT. 

I had spent about 5 weeks in ranging off and on the coast of New Holland, a length of about 300 leagues: and had put in at 3 several places to seewhat there might be thereabouts worth discovering; and at the same timeto recruit my stock of fresh water and provisions for the furtherdiscoveries I purposed to attempt on the Terra Australis. This large andhitherto almost unknown tract of land is situated so very advantageouslyin the richest climates of the world, the torrid and temperate zones;having in it especially all the advantages of the torrid zone, as beingknown to reach from the equator itself (within a degree) to the Tropic ofCapricorn, and beyond it; that in coasting round it, which I designed bythis voyage, if possible, I could not but hope to meet with some fruitfullands, continent or islands, or both, productive of any of the richfruits, drugs, or spices (perhaps minerals also, etc. ) that are in theother parts of the torrid zone, under equal parallels of latitude; atleast a soil and air capable of such, upon transplanting them hither, andcultivation. I meant also to make as diligent a survey as I could of theseveral smaller islands, shores, capes, bays, creeks, and harbours, fitas well for shelter as defence, upon fortifying them; and of the rocksand shoals, the soundings, tides, and currents, winds and weather, variation, etc. , whatever might be beneficial for navigation, trade orsettlement; or be of use to any who should prosecute the same designshereafter; to whom it might be serviceable to have so much of their workdone to their hands; which they might advance and perfect by their ownrepeated experiences. As there is no work of this kind brought toperfection at once I intended especially to observe what inhabitants Ishould meet with, and to try to win them over to somewhat of traffic anduseful intercourse, as there might be commodities among any of them thatmight be fit for trade or manufacture, or any found in which they mightbe employed. Though as to the New Hollanders hereabouts, by theexperience I had had of their neighbours formerly, I expected no greatmatters from them. 

With such views as these I set out at first from England; and would, according to the method I proposed formerly, have gone westward throughthe Magellanic Strait, or round Tierra del Fuego rather, that I mighthave begun my discoveries upon the eastern and least known side of theTerra Australis. But that way it was not possible for me to go by reasonof the time of year in which I came out; for I must have been compassingthe south of America in a very high latitude in the depth of the winterthere. I was therefore necessitated to go eastward by the Cape of GoodHope; and when I should be past it it was requisite I should keep in apretty high latitude, to avoid the general tradewinds that would beagainst me, and to have the benefit of the variable winds: by all which Iwas in a manner unavoidably determined to fall in first with those partsof New Holland I have hitherto been describing. For should it be askedwhy at my first making that shore I did not coast it to the southward, and that way try to get round to the east of New Holland and New Guinea;I confess I was not for spending my time more than was necessary in thehigher latitudes; as knowing that the land there could not be so wellworth the discovering as the parts that lay nearer the Line and moredirectly under the sun. Besides, at the time when I should come first onNew Holland, which was early in the spring, I must, had I stoodsouthward, have had for some time a great deal of winter weather, increasing in severity, though not in time, and in a place altogetherunknown; which my men, who were heartless enough to the voyage at best, would never have borne after so long a run as from Brazil hither. 

For these reasons therefore I chose to coast along to the northward, andso to the east, and so thought to come round by the south of TerraAustralis in my return back, which should be in the summer season there:and this passage back also I now thought I might possibly be able toshorten, should it appear, at my getting to the east coast of New Guinea, that there is a channel there coming out into these seas, as I nowsuspected, near Rosemary Island: unless the high tides and greatindraught thereabout should be occasioned by the mouth of some largeriver; which has often low lands on each side of its outlet, and manyislands and shoals lying at its entrance. But I rather thought it achannel or strait than a river: and I was afterwards confirmed in thisopinion when, by coasting New Guinea, I found that other parts of thisgreat tract of Terra Australis, which had hitherto been represented asthe shore of a continent, were certainly islands; and it is probably thesame with New Holland: though, for reasons I shall afterwards show, Icould not return by the way I proposed to myself to fix the discovery. All that I had now seen from the latitude of 27 degrees south to 25, which is Shark's Bay; and again from thence to Rosemary Islands and aboutthe latitude of 20; seems to be nothing but ranges of pretty largeislands against the sea, whatever might be behind them to the eastward, whether sea or land, continent or islands. 

But to proceed with my voyage. Though the land I had seen as yet was notvery inviting, being but barren towards the sea, and affording me neitherfresh water nor any great store of other refreshments, nor so much as afit place for careening; yet I stood out to sea again with thoughts ofcoasting still alongshore (as near as I could) to the north-eastward, forthe further discovery of it: persuading myself that at least the place Ianchored at in my voyage round the world, in the latitude of 16 degrees15 minutes, from which I was not now far distant, would not fail toafford me sweet water upon digging, as it did then; for the brackishwater I had taken in here, though it served tolerably well for boiling, was yet not very wholesome. 

With these intentions I put to sea on the 5th of September 1699, with agentle gale, sounding all the way; but was quickly induced to alter mydesign. For I had not been out above a day but I found that the shoalsamong which I was engaged all the while on the coast, and was like to beengaged in, would make it a very tedious thing to sail along by theshore, or to put in where I might have occasion. I therefore edgedfarther off to sea, and so deepened the water from 11 to 32 fathom. Thenext day, being September the 6th, we could but just discern the land, though we had then no more than about 30 fathom, uncertain soundings; foreven while we were out of sight of land we had once but 7 fathom, and hadalso great and uncertain tides whirling about, that made me afraid to gonear a coast so shallow, where we might be soon aground and yet have butlittle wind to bring us off: for should a ship be near a shoal she mightbe hurled upon it unavoidably by a strong tide, unless there should be agood wind to work her and keep her off. Thus also on the 7th day we sawno land, though our water decreased again to 26 fathom; for we haddeepened it, as I said, to 30. 

WATERSNAKES. 

This day we saw two water-snakes, different in shape from such as we hadformerly seen. The one was very small, though long; the other long and asbig as a man's leg, having a red head; which I never saw any have, beforeor since. We had this day latitude 16 degrees 9 minutes by observation. 

I was by this time got to the north of the place I had thought to haveput in at where I dug wells in my former voyage; and though I knew, bythe experience I had of it then, that there was a deep entrance inthither from the eastward; yet by the shoals I had hitherto found so farstretched on this coast, I was afraid I should have the same trouble tocoast all along afterwards beyond that place: and besides the danger ofrunning almost continually amongst shoals on a strange shore, and wherethe tides were strong and high; I began to bethink myself that a greatpart of my time must have been spent in being about a shore I was alreadyalmost weary of, which I might employ with greater satisfaction to mymind, and better hopes of success, in going forward to New Guinea. Add tothis the particular danger I should have been in upon a lee shore, suchas is here described, when the north-west monsoon should once come in;the ordinary season of which was not now far off, though this year itstayed beyond the common season; and it comes on storming at first, withtornadoes, violent gusts, etc. Wherefore quitting the thoughts of puttingin again at New Holland, I resolved to steer away for the island Timor;where, besides getting fresh water, I might probably expect to befurnished with fruits and other refreshments to recruit my men, who beganto droop; some of them being already to my great grief afflicted with thescurvy, which was likely to increase upon them and disable them, and waspromoted by the brackish water they took in last for boiling theiroatmeal. It was now also towards the latter end of the dry season; when Imight not probably have found water so plentifully upon digging at thatpart of New Holland as when I was there before in the wet season. Andthen, considering the time also that I must necessarily spend in gettingin to the shore through such shoals as I expected to meet with; or ingoing about to avoid them; and in digging of wells when I should comehither: I might very well hope to get to Timor and find fresh water thereas soon as I could expect to get it at New Holland; and with less troubleand danger. 

On the 8th of September therefore, shaping our course for Timor, we werein latitude 15 degrees 37 minutes. We had 26 fathom coarse sand; and wesaw one whale. We found them lying most commonly near the shore or inshoal water. This day we also saw some small white clouds; the first thatwe had seen since we came out of Shark's Bay. This was one sign of theapproach of the north-north-west monsoon. Another sign was the shiftingof the winds; for from the time of our coming to our last anchoringplace, the seabreezes which before were easterly and very strong had beenwhiffling about and changing gradually from the east to the north, andthence to the west, blowing but faintly, and now hanging mostly in somepoint of the west. This day the winds were at south-west by west, blowingvery faint; and the 9th day we had the wind at north-west by north, butthen pretty fresh; and we saw the clouds rising more and thicker in thenorth-west. This night at 12 we lay by for a small low sandy island whichI reckoned myself not far from. The next morning at sun-rising we saw itfrom the top-masthead, right ahead of us; and at noon were up within amile of it: when by a good observation I found it to lie in 13 degrees 55minutes. I have mentioned it in my first volume, but my account then madeit to lie in 13 degrees 50 minutes. We had abundance of boobies andman-of-war-birds flying about us all the day; especially when we camenear the island; which had also abundance of them upon it; though it wasbut a little spot of sand, scarce a mile round. 

I did not anchor here nor send my boat ashore; there being no appearanceof getting anything on that spot of sand besides birds that were good forlittle: though had I not been in haste I would have taken some of them. So I made the best of my way to Timor; and on the 11th in the afternoonwe saw 10 small land-birds, about the bigness of larks, that flew awaynorth-west. The 13th we saw a great many sea-snakes. One of these, ofwhich I saw great numbers and variety in this voyage, was large, and allblack: I never saw such another for his colour. 

THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND TIMOR. 

We had now for some days small gales from the south-south-west to thenorth-north-west, and the sky still more cloudy especially in themornings and evenings. The 14th it looked very black in the north-westall the day; and a little before sunset we saw, to our great joy, thetops of the high mountains of Timor, peeping out of the clouds which hadbefore covered them as they did still the lower parts. 

We were now running directly towards the middle of the island on thesouth side: but I was in some doubt whether I should run down alongshoreon this south side towards the east end; or pass about the west end, andso range along on the north side, and go that way towards the east end:but as the winds were now westerly I thought it best to keep on the southside, till I should see how the weather would prove; for, as the islandlies, if the westerly winds continued and grew tempestuous I should beunder the lee of it and have smooth water, and so could go alongshoremore safely and easily on this south side: I could sooner also run to theeast end where there is the best shelter, as being still more under thelee of the island when those winds blow. Or if, on the other side, thewinds should come about again to the eastward, I could but turn backagain (as I did afterwards) and passing about the west end, could thereprosecute my search on the north side of the island for water, orinhabitants, or a good harbour, or whatever might be useful to me. Forboth sides of the island were hitherto alike to me, being whollyunacquainted here; only as I had seen it at a distance in my formervoyage. 

SEARCH FOR FRESH WATER ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ISLAND, IN VAIN. 

I had heard also that there were both Dutch and Portuguese settlements onthis island; but whereabouts I knew not: however I was resolved to searchabout till I found either one of these settlements, or water in someother place. 

It was now almost night and I did not care to run near the land in thedark, but clapped on a wind and stood off and on till the next morning, being September 15th, when I steered in for the island, which nowappeared very plain, being high, double and treble land, very remarkable, on whatever side you view it. See a sight of it in 2 parts, Table 5Number 1. At 3 in the afternoon we anchored in 14 fathom, soft black oasyground, about a mile from the shore. See 2 sights more of the coast inTable 5 Numbers 2 and 3, and the island itself in the particular map;which I have here inserted to show the course of the voyage from hence tothe eastward; as the general map shows the course of the whole voyage. But in making the particular map I chose to begin only with Timor, that Imight not, by extending it too far, be forced to contract the scale toomuch among the islands, etc. , of the New Guinea coast, which I chieflydesigned it for. 

The land by the sea on this south side is low and sandy, and full of tallstraight-bodied trees like pines, for about 200 yards inwards from theshore. Beyond that, further in towards the mountains, for a breadth ofabout 3 miles more or less, there is a tract of swampy mangrove landwhich runs all along between the sandy land of the shore on one side ofit, and the feet of the mountains on the other. And this low mangroveland is overflown every tide of flood by the water that flows into itthrough several mouths or openings in the outer sandy skirt against thesea. We came to an anchor right against one of these openings; andpresently I went in my boat to search for fresh water, or get speech ofthe natives; for we saw smokes, houses, and plantations against the sidesof the mountains, not far from us. It was ebbing water before we gotashore, though the water was still high enough to float us in without anygreat trouble. After we were within the mouth we found a large salt-waterlake which we hoped might bring us up through the mangroves to the fastland: but before we went further I went ashore on the sandy land by theseaside, and looked about me; but saw there no sign of fresh water. Within the sandy bank the water forms a large lake: going therefore intothe boat again we rowed up the lake towards the firm land, where no doubtthere was fresh water, could we come at it. We found many branches of thelake entering within the mangrove land but not beyond it. Of these weleft some on the right hand and some on the left, still keeping in thebiggest channel; with still grew smaller, and at last so narrow that wecould go no farther, ending among the swamps and mangroves. We were thenwithin a mile of some houses of the Indian inhabitants and the firm landby the sides of the hills: but the mangroves thus stopping our way, wereturned as we came: but it was almost dark before we reached the mouthof the creek. It was with much ado that we got out of it again; for itwas now low-water, and there went a rough short sea on the bar; whichhowever we passed over without any damage and went aboard. 

The next morning at five we weighed and stood alongshore to the eastward, making use of the sea and land-breezes. We found the seabreezes here fromthe south-south-east to the south-south-west, the land-breezes from thenorth to the north-east. We coasted along about 20 leagues and found itall a straight, bold, even shore, without points, creeks or inlets for aship: and there is no anchoring till within a mile or a mile and a halfof the shore. We saw scarce any opening fit for our boats; and the fastland was still barricaded with mangroves; so that here was no hope to getwater; nor was it likely that there should be hereabouts any Europeansettlement, since there was no sign of a harbour. 

FAULT OF THE CHARTS. 

The land appeared pleasant enough to the eye: for the sides and tops ofthe mountains were clothed with woods mixed with savannahs; and there wasa plantation of the Indian natives, where we saw the coconuts growing, and could have been glad to have come at some of them. In the chart I hadwith me a shoal was laid down hereabouts; but I saw nothing of it, going, or coming; and so have taken no notice of it in my map. 

Weary of running thus fruitlessly along the south side of the island tothe eastward I resolved to return the way I came; and compassing the westend of the island, make a search along the north side of it. The rather, because the north-north-west monsoon, which I had designed to besheltered from by coming the way I did, did not seem to be near at hand, as the ordinary season of them required; but on the contrary I found thewinds returning again to the south-eastward; and the weather was fair, and seemed likely to hold so; and consequently the north-north-westmonsoon was not like to come in yet. I considered therefore that by goingto the north side of the island I should there have the smooth water, asbeing the lee side as the winds now were; and hoped to have better ridingat anchor or landing on that side, than I could expect here, where theshore was so lined with mangroves. 

Accordingly the 18th about noon I altered my course and steered backagain towards the south-west end of the island. This day we struck adolphin; and the next day saw two more but struck none: we also saw awhale. 

THE ISLAND ROTI. 

In the evening we saw the island Roti, and another island to the south ofit, not seen in my map; both lying near the south-west end of Timor. Onboth these islands we saw smokes by day, and fires by night, as we hadseen on Timor ever since we fell in with it. I was told afterwards by thePortuguese that they had sugar-works on the island Roti; but I knewnothing of that now; and the coast appearing generally dry and barren, only here and there a spot of trees, I did not attempt anchoring therebut stood over again to the Timor coast. 

A PASSAGE BETWEEN THE ISLANDS TIMOR AND ANABAO. FAULT OF THE CHARTS. 

September the 21st in the morning, being near Timor, I saw a pretty largeopening which immediately I entered with my ship, sounding as I went in:but had no ground till I came within the east point of the mouth of theopening, where I anchored in 9 fathom, a league from the shore. Thedistance from the east side to the west side of this opening was about 5leagues. But, whereas I thought this was only an inlet or large soundthat ran a great way into the island Timor, I found afterwards that itwas a passage between the west end of Timor and another small islandcalled Anamabao or Anabao: into which mistake I was led by my sea-chart, which represented both sides of the opening as parts of the same coast, and called all of it Timor: see all this rectified, and a view of thewhole passage as I found it, in a small map I have made of it. Table 6Number 1. 

I designed to sail into this opening till I should come to firm land, forthe shore was all set thick with mangroves here by the sea, on each side;which were very green, as were also other trees more within-land. We hadnow but little wind; therefore I sent my boat away, to sound and to letme know by signs what depth of water they met with, if under 8 fathom;but if more I ordered them to go on and make no signs. At 11 thatmorning, having a pretty fresh gale, I weighed and made sail after myboat; but edged over more to the west shore, because I saw many smalleropenings there, and was in hopes to find a good harbour where I mightsecure the ship; for then I could with more safety send my boats to seekfor fresh water. I had not sailed far before the wind came to thesouth-east and blew so strong that I could not with safety venture nearerthat side, it being a lee shore. Besides, my boat was on the east side ofthe Timor coast; for the other was, as I found afterwards, the Anabaoshore; and the great opening I was now in was the strait between thatisland and Timor; towards which I now tacked and stood over. Taking up myboat therefore I ran under the Timor side, and at 3 o'clock anchored in29 fathom, half a mile from the shore. That part of the south-west pointof Timor where we anchored in the morning bore now south by west, distance 3 leagues: and another point of the island borenorth-north-east, distance 2 leagues. 

A DUTCH FORT, CALLED CONCORDIA. THEIR SUSPICION OF THE AUTHOR. 

Not long after, we saw a sloop coming about the point last mentioned, with Dutch colours; which I found, upon sending my boat aboard, belongedto a Dutch fort (the only one they have in Timor) about 5 leagues fromhence, called Concordia. The governor of the fort was in the sloop, andabout 40 soldiers with him. He appeared to be somewhat surprised at ourcoming this way; which it seems is a passage scarce known to any butthemselves; as he told the men I sent to him in my boat. Neither did heseem willing that we should come near their fort for water. He said alsothat he did not know of any water on all that part of the island, butonly at the fort; and that the natives would kill us if they met usashore. By the small arms my men carried with them in the boat they tookus to be pirates, and would not easily believe the account my men gavethem of what we were and whence we came. They said that about 2 yearsbefore this there had been a stout ship of French pirates here; and thatafter having been suffered to water, and to refresh themselves, and beenkindly used, they had on a sudden gone among the Indians, subjects of thefort, and plundered them and burnt their houses. And the Portuguese heretold us afterwards that those pirates, whom they also had entertained, had burnt their houses and had taken the Dutch fort (though the Dutchcared not to own so much) and had driven the governor and factory amongthe wild Indians their enemies. The Dutch told my men further that theycould not but think we had of several nations (as is usual with piratevessels) in our ship and particularly some Dutchmen, though all thediscourse was in French (for I had not one who could speak Dutch) orelse, since the common charts make no passage between Timor and Anabao, but lay down both as one island; they said they suspected we hadplundered some Dutch ship of their particular charts, which they areforbid to part with. 

With these jealousies the sloop returned towards their fort, and my boatcame back with this news to me: but I was not discouraged at this news;not doubting but I should persuade them better when I should come to talkwith them. So the next morning I weighed and stood towards the fort. Thewinds were somewhat against us so that we could not go very fast, beingobliged to tack 2 or 3 times: and, coming near the farther end of thepassage between Timor and Anabao, we saw many houses on each side not farfrom the sea, and several boats lying by the shore. The land on bothsides was pretty high, appearing very dry and of a reddish colour, buthighest on the Timor side. The trees on either side were but small, thewoods thin, and in many places the trees were dry and withered. 

THE ISLAND ANABAO DESCRIBED. 

The island Anamabao, or Anabao, is not very big, not exceeding 10 leaguesin length and 4 in breadth; yet it has 2 kingdoms in it, namely that ofAnamabao on the east side towards Timor and the north-east end; and thatof Anabao, which contains the south-west end and the west side of theisland; but I known not which of them is biggest. The natives of both areof the Indian kind, of a swarthy copper-colour, with black lank hair. Those of Anamabao are in league with the Dutch, as these afterwards toldme, and with the natives of the kingdom of Kupang in Timor, over againstthem, in which the Dutch fort Concordia stands: but they are said to beinveterate enemies to their neighbours of Anabao. Those of Anabao, besides managing their small plantations of roots and a few coconuts, dofish, strike turtle, and hunt buffaloes, killing them with swords, darts, or lances. But I know not how they get their iron; I suppose by trafficwith the Dutch or Portuguese, who send now and then a sloop and tradethither, but well armed; for the natives would kill them, could theysurprise them. They go always armed themselves; and when they goa-fishing or a-hunting they spend 4 or 5 days or more in ranging aboutbefore they return to their habitation. We often saw them after this atthese employments; but they would not come near us. The fish or fleshthat they take, besides what serves for present spending, they dry on abarbecue or wooden grate, standing pretty high over the fire, and socarry it home when they return. We came sometimes afterwards to theplaces where they had meat thus a-drying, but did not touch any of it. 

But to proceed: I did not think to stop anywhere till I came near thefort; which yet I did not see: but, coming to the end of this passage, Ifound that if I went any farther I should be open again to the sea. Itherefore stood in close to the shore on the east side, and anchored in 4fathom water, sandy ground; a point of land still hindering me fromseeing the fort. But I sent my boat to look about for it; and in a shorttime she returned, and my men told me they saw the fort, but did not gonear it; and that it was not above 4 or 5 miles from hence. It being nowlate I would not send my boat thither till the next morning: meanwhileabout 2 or 300 Indians, neighbours of the fort, and sent probably fromthence, came to the sandy bay just against the ship; where they stayedall night, and made good fires. They were armed with lances, swords andtargets, and made a great noise all the night: we thought it was to scareus from landing, should we attempt it: but we took little notice of them. 

THE AUTHOR'S PARLEY WITH THE GOVERNOR OF THE DUTCH FORT. THEY, WITH GREATDIFFICULTY, OBTAIN LEAVE TO WATER. 

The next morning, being September the 23rd, I sent my clerk ashore in mypinnace to the governor to satisfy him that we were Englishmen: and inthe King's ship, and to ask water of him; sending a young man with himwho spoke French. My clerk was with the governor pretty early; and inanswer to his queries about me, and my business in these parts, told himthat I had the King of England's commission, and desired to speak withhim. He beckoned to my clerk to come ashore; but as soon as he saw somesmall arms in the stern-sheets of the boat he commanded him into the boatagain, and would have him be gone. My clerk solicited him that he wouldallow him to speak with him; and at last the governor consented that heshould come ashore, and sent his lieutenant and 3 merchants with a guardof about a hundred of the native Indians to receive him. My clerk saidthat we were in much want of water, and hoped they would allow us to cometo their watering-place and fill. But the governor replied that he hadorders not to supply any ships but their own East India Company; neithermust they allow any Europeans to come the way that we came; and wonderedhow we durst come near their fort. My clerk answered him that, had webeen enemies, we must have come ashore among them for water: but, saidthe governor, you are come to inspect into our trade and strength; and Iwill have you therefore be gone with all speed. My clerk answered himthat I had no such design but, without coming nearer them, would becontented if the governor would send water on board where we lay, about 2leagues from the fort; and that I would make any reasonable satisfactionfor it. The governor said that we should have what water we wanted, provided we came no nearer with the ship: and ordered that as soon as wepleased we should send our boat full of empty casks, and come to ananchor with it off the fort, till he sent slaves to bring the casksashore and fill them; for that none of our men must come ashore. The sameafternoon I sent up my boat as he had directed with an officer and apresent of some beer for the governor; which he would not accept of, butsent me off about a ton of water. 

On the 24th in the morning I sent the same officer again in my boat; andabout noon the boat returned again with the two principal merchants ofthe factory and the lieutenant of the fort; for whose security they hadkept my officer and one of my boat's crew as hostages, confining them tothe governor's garden all the time: for they were very shy of trustingany of them to go into their fort, as my officer said: yet afterwardsthey were not shy of our company; and I found that my officer maliciouslyendeavoured to make them shy of me. In the evening I gave the Dutchofficers that came aboard the best entertainment I could; and, bestowingsome presents on them, sent them back very well pleased; and my officerand the other man were returned to me. Next morning I sent my boat ashoreagain with the same officer; who brought me word from the governor thatwe must pay 4 Spanish dollars for every boat-load of water: but in thishe spoke falsely, as I understood afterwards from the governor himselfand all his officers, who protested to me that no such price wasdemanded, but left me to give the slaves what I pleased for their labour:the governor being already better satisfied about me than when my clerkspoke to him, or than that officer I sent last would have caused him tobe: for the governor being a civil, genteel, and sensible man, wasoffended at the officer for his being so industrious to misrepresent me. I received from the governor a little lamb, very fat; and I sent him 2 ofthe guinea-hens that I brought from St. Jago, of which there were nonehere. 

I had now 11 buts of water on board, having taken in 7 here, which Iwould have paid for but that at present I was afraid to send my boatashore again; for my officer told me, among other of his inventions, thatthere were more guns mounted in the fort than when we first came; andthat he did not see the gentlemen that were aboard the day before;intimating as if they were shy of us; and that the governor was veryrough with him; and I, not knowing to the contrary at present, consultedwith my other officers what was best to be done; for by this the governorshould seem to design to quarrel with us. All my other officers thoughtit natural to infer so much, and that it was not safe to send the boatashore any more, lest it should be seized on; but that it was best to goaway and seek more water where we could find it. For having now (as Isaid) 11 buts aboard; and the land being promising this way, I did notdoubt finding water in a short time. But my officer who occasioned thesefears in us by his own forgeries was himself for going no further; havinga mind, as far as I could perceive, to make everything in the voyage, towhich he showed himself averse, seem as cross and discouraging to my menas possible, that he might hasten our return; being very negligent andbackward in most businesses I had occasion to employ him in; doingnothing well or willingly, though I did all I could to win him to it. Hewas also industrious to stir up the seamen to mutiny; telling them, amongother things, that any Dutch ship might lawfully take us in these seas;but I knew better, and avoided everything that could give just offence. 

KUPANG BAY. 

The rest of my officers therefore being resolved to go from hence, andhaving bought some fish of some Anamabeans who, seeing our ship, camepurposely to sell some, passing to and fro every day, I sailed away onthe 26th about 5 in the afternoon. We passed along between a small lowsandy island (over against the fort) full of bays and pretty high trees;sounding as we went along, and had from 25 to 35 fathom, oasy ground. Seethe little map of this passage Table 6 Number 1. 

The 27th in the morning we anchored in the middle of the bay, calledKupang Bay, in 12 fathom, soft oaze, about 4 leagues above the Dutchfort. Their sloop was riding by the fort, and in the night fired a gun;but for what reason I know not, and the governor said afterwards it wasthe skipper's own doing, without his order. Presently after we hadanchored I went in the pinnace to search about the bay for water butfound none. Then, returning aboard, I weighed, and ran down to the northentrance of the bay, and at 7 in the evening anchored again in 37 fathom, soft oaze, close by the sandy island, and about 4 leagues from the Dutchfort. The 28th I sent both my boats ashore on the sandy island to cutwood; and by noon they both came back laden. In the afternoon I sent mypinnace ashore on the north coast or point of Kupang Bay, which is calledBabao. Late in the night they returned, and told me that they saw greattracks of buffaloes there, but none of the buffaloes themselves; neitherdid they find any fresh water. They also saw some green-turtle in the seaand one alligator. 

COASTING ALONG THE NORTH SIDE OF TIMOR. 

The 29th I went out of Kupang Bay, designing to coast it alongshore onthe north side of Timor to the eastward; as well to seek for water, asalso to acquaint myself with the island, and to search for the Portuguesesettlements; which we were informed were about forty leagues to theeastward of this place. 

We coasted alongshore with land and seabreezes. The land by the shore wasof a moderate height, with high and very remarkable hills farther withinthe country; their sides all spotted with woods and savannahs. But theseon the mountains' sides appeared of a rusty colour, not so pleasant andflourishing as those that we saw on the south side of the island; for thetrees seemed to be small and withering; and the grass in the savannahsalso looked dry, as if it wanted moisture. But in the valleys, and by thesea side, the trees looked here also more green. Yet we saw no goodanchoring-place, or opening, that gave us any encouragement to put in;till the 30th day in the afternoon. 

We were then running alongshore, at about 4 leagues distance, with amoderate seabreeze; when we opened a pretty deep bay which appeared to bea good road to anchor in. There were two large valleys and one smallerone which, descending from the mountains, came all into one valley by theseaside against this bay, which was full of tall green trees. I presentlystood in with the ship till within two leagues of the shore; and thensent in my pinnace, commanded by my chief mate, whose great care, fidelity, and diligence I was well assured of; ordering him to seek forfresh water; and if he found any to sound the bay and bring me word whatanchoring there was, and to make haste aboard. 

As soon as they were gone I stood off a little and lay by. The day wasnow far spent; and therefore it was late before they got ashore with theboat; so that they did not come aboard again that night. Which I was muchconcerned at; because in the evening, when the seabreeze was done and theweather calm, I perceived the ship to drive back again to the westward. Iwas not yet acquainted with the tides here; for I had hitherto met withno strong tides about the island, and scarce any running in a stream, toset me alongshore either way. But after this time I had pretty much ofthem; and found at present the flood set to the eastward, and the ebb tothe westward. The ebb (with which I was now carried) sets very strong andruns 8 or 9 hours. The flood runs but weak, and at most lasts not above 4hours; and this too is perceived only near the shore; where, checking theebb, it swells the seas and makes the water rise in the bays and rivers 8or 9 foot. I was afterwards credibly informed by some Portuguese that thecurrent runs always to the westward in the mid-channel between thisisland and those that face it in a range to the north of it, namelyMisicomba (or Omba) Pintare, Laubana, Ende, etc. 

THEY FIND WATER AND AN ANCHORING-PLACE. 

We were driven 4 leagues back again, and took particular notice of apoint of land that looked like Flamborough Head, when we were either tothe east or west of it; and near the shore it appeared like an island. Four or five leagues to the east of this point is another very remarkablebluff point which is on the west side of the bay that my boat was in. Seetwo sights of this land, Table 6 Numbers 2 and 3. We could not stem thetide till about 3 o'clock in the afternoon; when, the tide running withus, we soon got abreast of the bay, and then saw a small island to theeastward of us. See a sight of it Table 6 Number 4. About 6 we anchoredin the bottom of the bay in 25 fathom, soft oaze, half a mile from theshore. 

I made many false fires in the night, and now and then fired a gun thatmy boat might find me; but to no purpose. In the morning I found myselfdriven again by the tide of ebb 3 or 4 leagues to the westward of theplace where I left my boat. I had several men looking out for her; butcould not get sight of her: besides I continued still driving to thewestward; for we had but little wind, and that against us. But by 10o'clock in the morning we had the comfort of seeing the boat; and at 11she came aboard, bringing 2 barrecoes of very good water. 

A DESCRIPTION OF A SMALL ISLAND, SEVEN LEAGUES EAST FROM THE WATERING BAY. 

The mate told me there was good anchoring close by the watering-place;but that there ran a very strong tide, which near the shore made severalraces, so that they found much danger in getting ashore, and were afraidto come off again in the night because of the ripplings the tide made. 

We had now the seabreeze, and steered away for this bay; but could hardlystem the tide till about 3 in the afternoon; when, the tide being turnedwith us, we went along briskly, and about 6 anchored in the bay, in 25fathom, soft oaze, half a mile from the shore. 

The next morning I went ashore to fill water, and before night sentaboard 8 tons. We filled it out of a large pond within 50 paces of thesea. It looked pale but was very good, and boiled peas well. I saw thetrack of an alligator here. Not far from the pond we found the rudder ofa Malayan proa, 3 great jars in a small shed set up against a tree, and abarbecue whereon there had been fish and flesh of buffaloes dressed, thebones lying but a little from it. 

In 3 days we filled about twenty-six tun of water, and then had on boardabout 30 tun in all. The 2 following days we spent in fishing with theseine, and the first morning caught as many as served all my ship'scompany: but afterwards we had not so good success. The rest of my menwhich could be spared from the ship I sent out; some with the carpenter'smate to cut timber for my boats, etc. These went always guarded with 3 or4 armed men to secure them: I showed them what wood was fitting to cutfor our use, especially the calabash and maho; I showed them always themanner of stripping the maho-bark, and of making therewith thread, twine, ropes, etc. Others were sent out a-fowling; who brought home pigeons, parrots, cockatoos, etc. I was always with one party or other myself;especially with the carpenters, to hasten them to get what they could, that we might be gone from hence. 

Our water being full, I sailed from hence October the 6th about 4 in theafternoon, designing to coast alongshore to the eastward, till I came tothe Portuguese settlements. By the next morning we were driven 3 or 4leagues to the west of the bay; but in the afternoon, having a faintseabreeze, we got again abreast of it. It was the 11th day at noon beforewe got as far as the small island before mentioned, which lies about 7leagues to the east of the watering-bay: for what we gained in theafternoon by the benefit of the seabreezes we lost again in the eveningsand mornings, while it was calm, in the interval of the breezes. But thisday, the seabreeze blowing fresher than ordinary, we passed by the islandand run before night about 7 leagues to the east of it. 

This island is not half a mile long, and not above 100 yards in breadth, and looked just like a barn when we were by it: it is pretty high, andmay be seen from a ship's topmast-head about 10 leagues. The top, andpart of the sides, are covered with trees, and it is about 3 leagues fromTimor; it is about midway between the watering-place and the Portuguesefirst and main settlement by the shore. 

LAPHAO BAY. HOW THE AUTHOR WAS TREATED BY THE PORTUGUESE THERE. 

In the night we were again driven back toward the island, 3 leagues: butthe 12th day, having a pretty brisk seabreeze, we coasted alongshore;and, seeing a great many houses by the sea, I stood in with my ship tillI was within 2 miles of them, and then sent in my boat and lay by till itreturned. I sent an officer to command the boat; and a Portuguese seaman, that I brought from Brazil, to speak with the men that we saw on the bay;there being a great many of them, both foot and horse. I could not tellwhat officer there might be amongst them; but I ordered my officer totell the chief of them that we were English, and came hither forrefreshment. As soon as the boat came ashore and the inhabitants wereinformed who we were they were very glad, and sent me word that I waswelcome, and should have anything that the island afforded; and that Imust run a little farther about a small point, where I should see morehouses; and that the men would stand on the bay, right against the placewhere I must anchor. With this news the boat immediately returned; addingwithal that the governor lived about 7 miles up in the country; and thatthe chief person here was a lieutenant, who desired me, as soon as theship was at anchor, to send ashore one of my officers to go to thegovernor and certify him of our arrival. I presently made sail towardsthe anchoring-place, and at 5 o'clock anchored in Laphao Bay in 20fathom, soft oaze, over against the town. A description of which, and ofthe Portuguese settlement there, shall be given in the following chapter. 

As soon as I came to anchor I sent my boat ashore with my second mate, togo to the governor. The lieutenant that lived here had provided horsesand guides for him, and sent 4 soldiers with him for his guard, and, while he was absent, treated my men with arack at his own house, where heand some others of the townsmen showed them many broad thin pieces ofgold; telling them that they had plenty of that metal and would willinglytraffic with them for any sort of European commodities. About 11 o'clockmy mate returned on board and told me he had been in the country, and waskindly received by the gentleman he went to wait upon; who said we werewelcome, and should have anything the island afforded; and that he wasnot himself the governor, but only a deputy. He asked why we did notsalute their fort when we anchored; my mate answered that we saw nocolours flying, and therefore did not know there was any fort till hecame ashore and saw the guns; and if we had known that there was a fortyet that we could not have given any salute till we knew that they wouldanswer it with the like number of guns. The deputy said it was very well;and that he had but little powder; and therefore would gladly buy some ofus, if we had any to spare; which my mate told him we had not. 

The 13th the deputy sent me aboard a present of 2 young buffaloes, 6goats, 4 kids, 140 coconuts, 300 ripe mangoes, and 6 ripe jacks. This wasall very acceptable; and all the time we lay here we had fresh provision, and plenty of fruits; so that those of my men that were sick of thescurvy soon recovered and grew lusty. I stayed here till the 22nd, wentashore several times, and once purposely to see the deputy, who came outof the country also on purpose to see and talk with me. And then indeedthere were guns fired for salutes, both aboard my ship and at the fort. Our interview was in a small church which was filled with the better sortof people; her poorer sort thronging on the outside, and looking in uponus: for the church had no wall but at the east end; the sides and thewest end being open, saving only that it had boards about 3 or 4 foothigh from the ground. I saw but 2 white men among them all; one was apadre that came along with the lieutenant; the other was an inhabitant ofthe town. The rest were all copper-coloured, with black lank hair. Istayed there about 2 hours, and we spoke to each other by an interpreter. I asked particularly about the seasons of the year, and when theyexpected the north-north-west monsoon. The deputy told me that theyexpected the wind to shift every moment; and that some years thenorth-north-west monsoon set in in September, but never failed to come inOctober; and for that reason desired me to make what haste I could fromhence; for it was impossible to ride here when those winds came. 

DESIGNS OF MAKING FURTHER SEARCHES UPON AND ABOUT THE ISLAND. PORTSESIAL. 

I asked him if there was no harbour hereabouts where I might be securedfrom the fury of these winds at their first coming. He told me that thebest harbour in the island was at a place called Babao on the north sideof Kupang Bay; that there were no inhabitants there, but plenty ofbuffaloes in the woods, and abundance of fish in the sea; that there wasalso fresh water: that there was another place, called port Sesial, about20 leagues to the eastward of Laphao; that there was a river of freshwater there, and plenty of fish, but no inhabitants: yet that if I wouldgo thither he would send people with hogs, goats and buffaloes, to truckwith me for such commodities as I had to dispose of. 

I was afterwards told that on the east end of the island Ende there wasalso a very good harbour, and a Portuguese town; that there was greatplenty of refreshments for my men, and dammer for my ship; that thegovernor or chief of that place was called Captain More; that he was avery courteous gentleman, and would be very glad to entertain an Englishship there; and if I designed to go thither, I might have pilots herethat would be willing to carry me, if I could get the lieutenant'sconsent. That it was dangerous going thither without a pilot, by reasonof the violent tides that run between the islands Ende and Solor. I wastold also that at the island Solor there were a great many Dutchmenbanished from other places for certain crimes. I was willing enough to gothither, as well to secure my ship in a good harbour, where I mightcareen her (there being dammer also, which I could not get here, to makeuse of instead of pitch, which I now wanted) and where I might still berefreshing my men and supporting them in order to my further discoveries;as also to inform myself more particularly concerning these places as yetso little known to us. Accordingly I accepted the offer of a pilot andtwo gentlemen of the town, to go with me to Larentuca on the island Ende:and they were to come on board my ship the night before I sailed. But Iwas hindered of this design by some of my officers who had here also beenvery busy in doing me all the injury they could underhand. 

But to proceed. While I stayed here I went ashore every day and my mentook there turns to go ashore and traffic for what they had occasion for;and were now all very well again: and to keep themselves in heart everyman bought some rice, more or less, to recruit them after our formerfatigues. Besides, I ordered the purser to buy some for them, to servethem instead of peas which were now almost spent. I filled up mywater-casks again here, and cut more wood; and sent a present to thelieutenant, Alexis Mendosa, designing to be gone; for while I lay here wehad some tornadoes and rain, and the sky in the north-west looked veryblack mornings and evenings, with lightning all night from that quarter, which made me very uneasy and desirous to depart hence; because this roadlay exposed to the north-north-west and north winds, which were now dailyexpected and which are commonly so violent that it is impossible for anyship to ride them out: yet on the other hand it was absolutely necessaryfor me to spend about 2 months time longer in some place hereaboutsbefore I could prosecute my voyage farther to the eastward; for reasonswhich I shall give hereafter in its proper place in the ensuingdiscourse. When therefore I sent the present to the governor I desired tohave a pilot to Larentuca on the island Ende; where I desired to spendthe time I had to spare. He now sent me word that he could not well doit, but would send me a letter to Port Sesial for the natives, who wouldcome to me there and supply me with what provision they had. 

I stayed 3 days in hopes yet to get a pilot for Larentuca, or at leastthe letter from the governor to Port Sesial. But seeing neither I sailedfrom hence the 22nd of October, coasting to the eastward, designing forSesial; and before night was about 10 leagues to the east of Laphao. Ikept about 3 leagues offshore and my boat ranged along close by theshore, looking into every bay and cove; and at night returned on board. The next morning, being 3 or 4 leagues farther to the eastward, I sent myboat ashore again to find Sesial. At noon they returned and told me theyhad been at Sesial, as they guessed; that there were two Portuguese barksin the port who threatened to fire at them but did not; telling them thiswas Porto del Roy de Portugal. They saw also another bark which ran andanchored close by the shore, and the men ran all away for fear: but ourmen calling to them in Portuguese, they at last came to them, and toldthem that Sesial was the place which they came from, where the 2 barkslay: had not these men told them they could not have known it to be aport, it being only a little bad cove, lying open to the north; having 2ledges of rocks at its entrance, one on each side; and a channel between, which was so narrow that it would not be safe for us to go in. However Istood in with the ship, to be better satisfied; and when I came near itfound it answer my men's description. I lay by a while to consider what Ihad best do; for my design was to lie in a place where I might get freshprovisions if I could: for, though my men were again pretty wellrecruited, and those that had been sick of the scurvy were well again, yet I designed if possible to refresh them as much and as long as I couldbefore I went farther. Besides my ship wanted cleaning; and I wasresolved to clean her if possible. 

RETURN TO BABAO IN KUPANG BAY. 

At last after much consideration I thought it safer to go away again forBabao; and accordingly stood to the westward. We were now about 60leagues to the east of Babao. The coast is bold all the way, having noshoals, and but one island which I saw and described coming to theeastward. The land in the country is very mountainous; but there are somelarge valleys towards the east end. Both the mountains and valleys onthis side are barren; some wholly so; and none of them appear so pleasantas the place where I watered. It was the 23rd day in the evening when Istood back again for Babao. We had but small sea and land-breezes. On the27th we came into Kupang Bay; and the next day, having sounded Babaoroad, I ran in and came to an anchor there, in 20 fathom, soft oaze, 3mile from the shore. One reason, as I said before, of my coming hither, was to ride secure and to clean my ship's bottom; as also to endeavour byfishing and hunting of buffaloes to refresh my men and save my saltprovision. It was like to be some time before I could clean my shipbecause I wanted a great many necessaries, especially a vessel to careenby. I had a long-boat in a frame that I brought out of England, by whichI might have made a shift to do it; but my carpenter was uncapable to sether up. Besides, by the time the ship's sides were caulked, my pitch wasalmost spent; which was all owing to the carpenter's wilful waste andignorance; so that I had nothing to lay on upon the ship's bottom. Butinstead of this I intended to make lime here, which with oil would havemade a good coat for her. Indeed had it been advisable I would have gonein between Cross Island and Timor, and have hauled my ship ashore; forthere was a very convenient place to do it in; but, my ship being sharp, I did not dare to do it: besides, I must have taken everything out ofher; and I had neither boats to get my things ashore nor hands to lookafter them when they were there; for my men would have been all employed;and, though here are no Indians living near, yet they come hither incompanies when ships are here, on purpose to do any mischief they can tothem; and it was not above 2 years since a Portuguese ship riding here, and sending her boat for water to one of the galleys, the men were allkilled by the Indians. But to secure my men I never suffered them to goashore unarmed; and while some were at work others stood to guard them. 

We lay in this place from October the 28th till December the 12th. Inwhich time we made very good lime with shells, of which here are plenty. We cut palmetto leaves to burn the ship's sides; and, giving her as gooda heel as we could, we burned her sides and paid them with lime and waterfor want of oil to mix with it. This stuck on about 2 months where it waswell burned. We did not want fresh provisions all the time we lay here, either of fish or flesh. For there were fair sandy bays on the point ofBabao, where in 2 or 3 hours in a morning we used with our seine to dragashore as much fish as we could eat all the day; and for a change of dietwhen we were weary of fish I sent 10 or 11 men a-hunting for buffaloes;who never came empty home. They went ashore in the evening or early inthe morning, and before noon always returned with their burdens ofbuffalo, enough to suffice us 2 days; by which time we began to long forfish again. 

THE AUTHOR'S ENTERTAINMENT AT THE FORT OF CONCORDIA. 

On the 11th of November the governor of Concordia sent one of hisofficers to us to know who we were. For I had not sent thither since Icame to anchor last here. When the officer came aboard he asked me why wefired so many guns the 4th and 5th days (which we had done in honour ofKing William and in memory of the deliverance from the powder plot) Itold him the occasion of it; and he replied that they were in some fearat the fort that we had been Portuguese, and that we were coming withsoldiers to take their fort; he asked me also why I did not stay and fillmy water at their fort before I went away from thence? I told him thereason of it and withal offered him money; bidding him take what hethought reasonable: he took none and said he was sorry there had beensuch a misunderstanding between us; and knew that the governor would bemuch concerned at it. After a short stay he went ashore; and the nextmorning came aboard again, and told me the governor desired me to comeashore to the fort and dine with him; and if I doubted anything he wouldstay aboard till I returned. I told him I had no reason to mistrustanything against me, and would go ashore with him; so I took my clerk andmy gunner and went ashore in my pinnace: the gunner spoke very goodFrench, and therefore I took him to be my interpreter because thegovernor speaks French: he was an honest man, and I found him alwaysdiligent and obedient. It was pretty late in the afternoon before we cameashore; so that we had but little time with the governor. He seemed to bemuch dissatisfied at the report my officer had made to me (of which Ihave before given an account) and said it was false, neither would he nowtake any money of me; but told me I was welcome; as indeed I found bywhat he provided. For there was plenty of very good victuals, and welldressed; and the linen was white and clean; and all the dishes and platesof silver or fine china. I did not meet anywhere with a betterentertainment while I was abroad; nor with so much decency and order. Ourliquor was wine, beer, toddy, or water, which we liked best after dinner. He showed me some drawers full of shells which were the strangest andmost curious that I had ever seen. He told me before I went away that hecould not supply me with any naval stores, but if I wanted any freshprovision he would supply me with what I had occasion for. I thanked himand told him I would send my boat for some goats and hogs, thoughafterwards on second thoughts I did not do it: for it was a great wayfrom the place where we lay to the fort; and I could not tell whatmischief might befall any of my men when there from the natives;especially if encouraged by the Dutch, who are enemies to all Europeansbut such as are under their own government. Therefore I chose rather tofish and hunt for provisions than to be beholden to the Dutch and paydearly for it too. 

HIS STAY SEVEN WEEKS AT BABAO. 

We found here, as I said before, plenty of game; so that all the time welay at this place we spent none or very little of our salt provisions;having fish or fresh buffalo every day. We lay here 7 weeks; and, although the north-north-west monsoon was every day expected when I wasat Laphao, yet it was not come, so that if I had prosecuted my voyage tothe eastward without staying here it had been but to little advantage. For if I had gone out and beaten against the wind a whole month I shouldnot have got far; it may be 40, 50 or 60 leagues; which was but 24 hoursrun for us with a large wind; besides the trouble and discontent whichmight have arisen among my men in beating to windward to so littlepurpose, there being nothing to be got at sea; but here we lived and dideat plentifully every day without trouble. The greatest inconveniency ofthis place was want of water; this being the latter part of the dryseason, because the monsoon was very late this year. About 4 days beforewe came away we had tornadoes with thunder, lightning and rain, and muchwind; but of no long continuance; at which time we filled some water. Wesaw very black clouds, and heard it thunder every day for near a monthbefore in the mountains; and saw it rain, but none came near us: and evenwhere we hunted we saw great trees torn up by the roots, and great havocmade among the woods by the wind; yet none touched us. 

CHAPTER 2. 

A DESCRIPTION OF TIMOR. 

A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND TIMOR. 

The island Timor, as I have said in my Voyage round the World, is aboutseventy leagues long and fourteen or sixteen broad. It lies nearlynorth-east and south-west. The middle of it lies in about 9 degrees southlatitude. It has no navigable rivers nor many harbours; but abundance ofbays for ships to ride in at some seasons of the year. The shore is verybold, free from rocks, shoals or islands, excepting a few which arevisible and therefore easily avoided. On the south side there is a shoallaid down in our charts about thirty leagues from the south-west end; Iwas fifteen or twenty leagues further to the east than that distance, butsaw nothing of the shoal; neither could I find any harbour. It is apretty even shore, with sandy bays and low land for about three or fourmiles up; and then it is mountainous. There is no anchoring but with halfa league or a league at farthest from the shore; and the low land thatbounds the sea has nothing but red mangroves, even from the foot of themountains till you come within a hundred and fifty or two hundred pacesof the sea; and then you have sandbanks clothed with a sort of pine; sothat there is no getting water on this side because of the mangroves. 

THE ISLAND ANABAO. FAULT OF THE CHARTS. THE CHANNEL BETWEEN TIMOR AND ANABAO. 

At the south-west end of Timor is a pretty high island called Anabao. Itis about ten or twelve leagues long and about four broad; near which theDutch are settled. It lies so near Timor that it is laid down in ourcharts as part of that island; yet we found a narrow deep channel fit forany ships to pass between them. This channel is about ten leagues longand in some places not above a league wide. It runs north-east andsouth-west, so deep that there is no anchoring but very nigh the shore. There is but little tide; the flood setting north and the ebb to thesouthward. At the north-east end of this channel are two points of landnot above a league asunder; one on the south side upon Timor, calledKupang; the other on the north side, upon the island Anabao. From thislast point the land trends away northerly two or three leagues, opens tothe sea, and then bends in again to the westward. 

KUPANG BAY. FORT CONCORDIA. 

Being past these points you open a bay of about eight leagues long andfour wide. This bay trends in on the south side north-east by east fromthe south point before mentioned; making many small points or littlecoves. About a league to the east of the said south point the Dutch havea small stone fort, situated on a firm rock close by the sea: this fortthey call Concordia. On the east side of the fort there is a small riverof fresh water which has a broad boarded bridge over it, near to theentry into the fort. Beyond this river is a small sandy bay where theboats and barks land and convey their traffic in or out of the fort. About a hundred yards from the seaside, and as many from the fort, andforty yards from the bridge on the east side, the Company have a finegarden, surrounded with a good stone wall; in it is plenty of all sortsof salads, cabbages, roots for the kitchen; in some parts of it arefruit-trees, as jacas, pumplenose, oranges, sweet lemons, etc. And by thewalls are coconut and toddy-trees in great plenty. Besides these theyhave musk and watermelons, pineapples, pomecitrons, pomegranates, andother sorts of fruits. Between this garden and the river there is a penfor black cattle, whereof they have plenty. Beyond the Company's groundthe natives have their houses, in number about fifty or sixty. There areforty or fifty soldiers belonging to this fort, but I know not how manyguns they have; for I had only opportunity to see one bastion, which hadin it four guns. Within the walls there is a neat little church orchapel. 

A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY. 

Beyond Concordia the land runs about seven leagues to the bottom of thebay; then it is not above a league and a half from side to side, and theland trends away northerly to the north shore, then turns about again tothe westward, making the south side of the bay. About three leagues and ahalf from the bottom of the bay on this side there is a small islandabout a musket-shot from the shore; and a reef of rocks that runs from itto the eastward about a mile. On the west side of the island is a channelof three fathom at low-water, of which depth it is also within, whereships may haul in and careen. West from this island the land rounds awayin a bight or elbow, and at last ends in a low point of land which shootsforth a ledge of rocks a mile into the sea, which is dry at low water. Just against the low point of land and to the west of the ledge of rocksis another pretty high and rocky yet woody island, about half a mile fromthe low point; which island has a ledge of corally rocks running from itall along to the other small island, only leaving one channel betweenthem. Many of these rocks are to be seen at low-water, and there seldomis water enough for a boat to go over them till quarter flood or more. Within this ledge there is two or three fathom water, and without it noless than ten or twelve fathom close to the rocks. A league without thislast rocky island is another small low sandy island, about four milesfrom the low point, three leagues from the Dutch fort Concordia and threeleagues and a half from the south-west point of the bay. Ships that comein this way must pass between this low isle and the low point, keepingnear the isle. 

THE ANCHORING-PLACE, CALLED BABAO. 

In this bay there is any depth of water from thirty to three fathom, verygood oazy holding ground. This affords the best shelter against all windsof any place about the island Timor. But from March to October, whileeither the southerly winds or only land and seabreezes hold, theConcordia side is best to ride in; but when the more violent northerlywinds come then the best riding is between the two rocky islands innineteen or twenty fathom. If you bring the westernmost island to bearsouth-west by west about a league distance, and the low point west bysouth; then the body of the sandy island will bear south-west half west, distance two leagues; and the ledges of rocks shooting from each makesuch a bar that no sea can come in. Then you have the land from west bysouth to east-north-east to defend you on that side: and other winds donot here blow violently. But if they did yet you are so land-locked thatthere can be no sea to hurt you. This anchoring-place is called Babao, about five leagues from Concordia. The greatest inconveniency in it isthe multitude of worms. Here is fresh water enough to be had in the wetseason; every little gulley discharging fresh water into the sea. 

THE MALAYANS HERE KILL ALL THE EUROPEANS THEY CAN. 

In the dry season you must search for it in standing ponds or gulleys, where the wild buffaloes, hogs, etc. Resort every morning and evening todrink; where you may lie and shoot them, taking care that you go strongenough and well-armed against the natives upon all occasions. For thoughthere are no inhabitants near this place yet the Malayans come in greatcompanies when ships are here; and if they meet with any Europeans theykill them, of what nation soever they be, not excepting the Portuguesethemselves. It is but two years since a Portuguese ship riding here hadall the boat's crew cut off as they were watering; as I was informed bythe Dutch. Here likewise is plenty of fish of several sorts, which may becaught with a seine; also tortoise and oysters. 

From the north-east point of this bay, on the north side of the island, the land trends away north-north-east for four or five leagues; afterwardnorth-east or more easterly; and when you are fourteen or fifteen leaguesto the eastward of Babao you come up with a point that makes likeFlamborough Head, if you are pretty nigh the land; but if at a distancefrom it on either side it appears like an island. This point is veryremarkable, there being none other like it in all this island. When youare abreast of this point you will see another point about four leaguesto the eastward; and when you are abreast of this latter point you willsee a small island bearing east or east by north (according to yourdistance from the land) just rising out of the water: when you see itplain you will be abreast of a pretty deep sandy bay, which has a pointin the middle that comes sloping from the mountains with a curious valleyon each side: the sandy bay runs from one valley to the other. You maysail into this bay, and anchor a little to the eastward of the point intwenty fathom water, half a mile from the shore, soft oaze. Then you willbe about two leagues from the west point of the bay, and about eightleagues from the small island before mentioned, which you can see prettyplain bearing east-north-east a little northwardly. Some other marks areset down in the foregoing chapter. In this sandy bay you will find freshwater in two or three places. At spring tides you will see manyripplings, like shoals; but they are only eddies caused by the two pointsof the bay. 

We saw smokes all day up in the mountains, and fires by night, at certainplaces where we supposed the natives lived, but saw none of them. 

The tides ran between the two points of the bay, very strong anduncertain: yet it did not rise and fall above nine foot upon a springtide: but it made great ripplings and a roaring noise, whirling aboutlike whirlpools. We had constantly eddy tides under the shore, made bythe points on each side of the bay. 

LAPHAO, A PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENT, DESCRIBED. 

When you go hence to the eastward you may pass between the small islandand Timor; and when you are five or six leagues to the eastward of thesmall island you will see a large valley to the eastward of you; then, running a little further, you may see houses on the bay: you may luff in, but anchor not till you go about the next point. Then you will see morehouses where you may run in to twenty or thirty fathom, and anchor rightagainst the houses, nearest the west end of them. This place is calledLaphao. It is a Portuguese settlement, about sixteen leagues from thewatering-bay. 

There are in it about forty or fifty houses and one church. The housesare mean and low, the walls generally made of mud or wattled, and theirsides made up with boards: they are all thatched with palm or palmettoleaves. The church also is very small: the east end of it is boarded upto the top; but the sides and the west end are only boarded three or fourfoot high; the rest is all open: there is a small altar in it, with twosteps to go up to it, and an image or two; but all very mean. It is alsothatched with palm or palmetto leaves. Each house has a yard belonging toit, fenced about with wild canes nine or ten foot high. There is a wellin each yard, and a little bucket with a string to it to draw waterwithal. There is a trunk of a tree made hollow, placed in each well, tokeep the earth from falling in. Round the yards there are manyfruit-trees planted; as coconuts, tamarinds and toddy-trees. 

They have a small hovel by the sea side where there are six small oldiron guns standing on a decayed platform, in rotten carriages. Theirvents are so big that when they are fired, the strength of the powderflying out there, they give but a small report like that of a musket. This is their court of guard; and here were a few armed men watching allthe time we lay here. 

The inhabitants of the town are chiefly a sort of Indians of acopper-colour, with black lank hair: they speak Portuguese and are of theRomish religion; but they take the liberty to eat flesh when they please. They value themselves on the account of their religion and descent fromthe Portuguese; and would be very angry if a man should say they are notPortuguese; yet I saw but three white men here, two of which were padres. There are also a few Chinese living here. It is a place of pretty goodtrade and strength, the best on this island, Porta Nova excepted. Theyhave three or four small barks belonging to the place; with which theytrade chiefly about the island with the natives for wax, gold, andsandalwood. Sometimes they go to Batavia and fetch European commodities, rice, etc. 

The Chinese trade hither from Macao; and I was informed that about twentysail of small vessels come from thence hither every year. They bringcoarse rice, adulterated gold, tea, iron, and iron tools, porcelain, silks, etc. They take in exchange pure gold, as it is gathered in themountains, beeswax, sandalwood, slaves, etc. Sometimes also here comes aship from Goa. Ships that trade here began to come hither the latter endof March; and none stay here longer than the latter end of August. Forshould they be here while the north-north-west monsoon blows no cablesnor anchors would hold them; but they would be driven ashore and dashedin pieces presently. But from March till September, while thesouth-south-east monsoon blows, ships ride here very secure; for then, though the wind often blows hard, yet it is offshore; so that there isvery smooth water, and no fear of being driven ashore; and yet even thenthey moor with three cables; two towards the land, eastward and westward;and the third right off to seaward. 

As this is the second place of traffic so it is in strength the secondplace the Portuguese have here, though not capable of resisting a hundredmen: for the pirates that were at the Dutch fort came hither also; andafter they had filled their water and cut firewood and refreshedthemselves, they plundered the houses, set them on fire, and went away. Yet I was told that the Portuguese can draw together five or six hundredmen in twenty-four hours time, all armed with hand-guns, swords andpistols; but powder and bullets are scarce and dear. The chief personthey have on the island is named Antonio Henriquez; they call him usuallyby the title of Captain More or Maior. They say he is a white man, andthat he was sent hither by the viceroy of Goa. I did not see him; for helives, as I was informed, a great way from hence, at a place called PortaNova, which is at the east end of the island, and by report is a goodharbour; but they say that this Captain More goes frequently to wars incompany with the Indians that are his neighbours and friends, againstother Indians that are their enemies. The next man to him is AlexisMendosa; he is a lieutenant, and lives six or seven miles from hence, andrules this part of the country. He is a little man of the Indian race, copper-coloured, with black lank hair. He speaks both the Indian andPortuguese languages; is a Roman Catholic, and seems to be a civil briskman. There is another lieutenant at Laphao; who is also an Indian; speaksboth his own and the Portuguese language very well; is old and infirm, but was very courteous to me. 

They boast very much of their strength here, and say they are able at anytime to drive the Dutch away from the island, had they permission fromthe king of Portugal so to do. But though they boast thus of theirstrength yet really they are very weak; for they have but a few smallarms and but little powder: they have no fort, nor magazine of arms; nordoes the viceroy of Goa send them any now: for though they pretend to beunder the king of Portugal they are a sort of lawless people, and areunder no government. It was not long since the viceroy of Goa sent a shiphither, and a land-officer to remain here: but Captain More put him inirons, and sent him aboard the ship again; telling the commander that hehad no occasion for any officers; and that he could make better officershere than any that could be sent him from Goa: and I know not whetherthere has been any other ship sent from Goa since: so that they have nosupplies from thence: yet they need not want arms and ammunition, seeingthey trade to Batavia. However they have swords and lances as otherIndians have; and though they are ambitious to be called Portuguese, andvalue themselves on their religion, yet most of the men and all the womenthat live here are Indians; and there are very few right Portuguese inany part of the island. However of those that call themselves PortugueseI was told there are some thousands; and I think their strength consistsmore in their numbers than in good arms or discipline. 

The land from hence trends away east by north about 14 leagues, makingmany points and sandy bays, where vessels may anchor. 

PORT CICCALE. 

Fourteen leagues east from Laphao there is a small harbour called Ciccaleby the Portuguese, and commended by them for an excellent port; but it isvery small, has a narrow entrance, and lies open to northerly winds:though indeed there are two ledges of rocks, one shooting out from thewest point and the other from the east point, which break off the sea;for the rocks are dry at low water. This place is about 60 leagues fromthe south-west end of the island. 

THE HILLS, WATER, LOWLANDS, SOIL, WOODS, METALS, IN THE ISLAND TIMOR. 

The whole of this island Timor is a very uneven rough country, full ofhills and small valleys. In the middle of it there runs a chain of highmountains, almost from one end to the other. It is indifferently wellwatered (even in the dry times) with small brooks and springs, but nogreat rivers; the island being but narrow, and such a chain of mountainsin the middle that no water can run far; but, as the springs break out onone side or other of the hills, they make their nearest course to thesea. In the wet season the valleys and low lands by the sea are overflownwith water; and then the small drills that run into the sea are greatrivers; and the gullies, which are dry for 3 or 4 months before, nowdischarge an impetuous torrent. The low land by the seaside is for themost part friable, loose, sandy soil; yet indifferently fertile andclothed with woods. The mountains are chequered with woods and some spotsof savannahs: some of the hills are wholly covered with tall, flourishingtrees; others but thinly; and these few trees that are on them, look verysmall, rusty and withered; and the spots of savannahs among them appearrocky and barren. Many of the mountains are rich in gold, copper, orboth: the rains wash the gold out of mountains, which the natives pick upin the adjacent brooks, as the Spaniards do in America: how they get thecopper I know not. 

ITS TREES. 

The trees that grow naturally here are of divers sorts; many of themwholly unknown to me; but such as I have seen in America or other places, and grow here likewise, are these, namely mangrove, white, red and black;maho, calabash, several sorts of the palm kind: the cotton-trees are notlarge, but tougher than those in America: here are also locust-trees of 2or 3 sorts, bearing fruit, but not like those I have formerly seen; thesebear a large white blossom, and yield much fruit but, it is not sweet. 

CANA-FISTULA-TREE DESCRIBED. 

Cana-fistula-trees are very common here; the tree is about the bigness ofour ordinary apple-trees; their branches not thick, nor full of leaves. These and the before-mentioned blossom in October and November; theblossoms are much like our apple-tree blossoms, and about that bigness:at first they are red; but before they fall off, when spread abroad, theyare white; so that these trees in their season appear extraordinarilypleasant, and yield a very fragrant smell. When the fruit is ripe it isround, and about the bigness of a man's thumb; of a dark brown colour, inclining to red, and about 2 foot or 2 foot and a half long. We foundmany of them under the trees, but they had no pulp in them. Thepartitions in the middle are much at the same distance with those broughtto England, of the same substance, and such small flat seed in them: butwhether they be the true cana-fistula or no I cannot tell, because Ifound no black pulp in them. 

The calabashes here are very prickly: the trees grow tall and tapering;whereas in the West Indies they are low and spread much abroad. 

Here are also wild tamarind-trees, not as large as the true; though muchresembling them both in the bark and leaf. 

WILD FIGTREES DESCRIBED. 

Wild fig trees here are many, but not so large as those in America. Thefruit grows not on the branches singly like those in America, but instrings and clusters, 40 or 50 in a cluster, about the body and greatbranches of the tree, from the very root up to the top. These figs areabout the bigness of a crab-apple, of a greenish colour, and full ofsmall white seeds; they smell pretty well, but have no juice or taste;they are ripe in November. 

Here likewise grows sandalwood, and many more sorts of trees fit for anyuses. The tallest among them resemble our pines; they are straight andclear-bodied, but not very thick; the inside is reddish near the heartand hard and ponderous. 

TWO NEW SORTS OF PALMTREES DESCRIBED. 

Of the palm kind there are 3 or 4 sorts; two of which kinds I have notseen anywhere but here. Both sorts are very large and tall. The firstsort had trunks of about 7 or eight foot in circumference and about 80 or90 foot high. These had branches at the top like coconut-trees, and theirfruit like coconuts, but smaller: the nut was of an oval form, and aboutthe bigness of a duck's egg: the shell black and very hard. It was almostfull of kernel, having only a small empty space in the middle, but nowater as coconuts have. The kernel is too hard to be eaten. The fruitsomewhat resembles that in Brazil formerly mentioned. The husk or outsideof the fruit was very yellow, soft and pulpy when ripe; and full of smallfibres; and when it fell down from the trees would mash and smellunsavoury. 

The other sort was as big and tall as the former; the body growingstraight up without limbs, as all trees of the palm kind do: but, insteadof a great many long green branches growing from the head of the tree, these had short branches about the bigness of a man's arm, and about afoot long; each of which spread itself into a great many small toughtwigs, that hung full of fruit like so many ropes of onions. The fruitwas as big as a large plum; and every tree had several bushels of fruit. The branches that bore this fruit sprouted out at about 50 or 60 footheight from the ground. The trunk of the tree was all of one bigness fromthe ground to that height; but from thence it went tapering smaller andsmaller to the top, where it was no bigger than a man's leg, ending in astump: and there was no green about the tree but the fruit; so that itappeared like a dead trunk. 

Besides fruit trees here were many sorts of tall straight-bodiedtimber-trees; one sort of which was like pine. These grow plentifully allround the island by the seaside, but not far within land. It is hardwood, of a reddish colour, and very ponderous. 

THE FRUITS OF THE ISLAND. 

The fruits of this island are guavas, mangoes, jacas, coconuts, plantains, bananas, pineapples, citrons, pomegranates, oranges, lemons, limes, musk-melons, watermelons, pumpkins, etc. Many of these have beenbrought hither by the Dutch and Portuguese; and most of them are ripe inSeptember and October. There were many other excellent fruits, but notnow in season; as I was informed both by the Dutch and Portuguese. 

THE HERBS. 

Here I met with an herb which in the West Indies we call calalaloo. Itgrows wild here. I ate of it several times and found it as pleasant andwholesome as spinach. Here are also parsley, samphire, etc. Indian cornthrives very well here, and is the common food of the islanders; thoughthe Portuguese and their friends sow some rice, but not half enough fortheir subsistence. 

ITS LAND ANIMALS. 

The land animals are buffaloes, beeves, horses, hogs, goats, sheep, monkeys, iguanas, lizards, snakes, scorpions, centumpees, etc. Beside thetame hogs and buffaloes, there are many wild all over the country, whichany may freely kill. As for the beeves, horses, goats, and sheep, it isprobable they were brought in by the Portuguese or Dutch; especially thebeeves; for I saw none but at the Dutch fort Concordia. 

We also saw monkeys and some snakes. One sort yellow, and as big as aman's arm, and about 4 foot long: another sort no bigger than the stem ofa tobacco pipe, about 5 foot long, green all over his body, and with aflat red head as big as a man's thumb. 

FOWLS. THE RINGING-BIRD. 

The fowls are wild cocks and hens, eagles, hawks, crows, 2 sorts ofpigeons, turtledoves, 3 or 4 sorts of parrots, parakeets, cockatoos, blackbirds; besides a multitude of smaller birds of divers colours, whosecharming music makes the woods very pleasant. One sort of these prettylittle birds my men called the ringing-bird; because it had 6 notes, andalways repeated all his notes twice one after another; beginning high andshrill and ending low. This bird was about the bigness of a lark, havinga small sharp black bill and blue wings; the head and breast were of apale red, and there was a blue streak about its neck. Here are alsosea- or waterfowls, as men-of-war-birds, boobies, fishing-hawks, herons, galdens, crab-catchers, etc. The tame fowl are cocks, hens, ducks, geese;the 2 last sorts I only saw at the Dutch fort, of the other sort thereare not many but among the Portuguese: the woods abound with bees, whichmake much honey and wax. 

ITS FISH. COCKLE MERCHANTS AND OYSTERS. COCKLES AS BIG AS A MAN'S HEAD. 

The sea is very well stocked with fish of divers sorts, namely mullet, bass, bream, snook, mackerel, parracoots, garfish, ten-pounders, scuttle-fish, stingrays, whiprays, rasperages, cockle-merchants, oroyster-crackers, cavallies, conger-eels, rock-fish, dog-fish, etc. Therays are so plentiful that I never drew the seine but I caught some ofthem; which we salted and dried. I caught one whose tail was 13 footlong. The cockle-merchants are shaped like cavallies, and about theirbigness. They feed on shellfish, having 2 very hard, thick, flat bones intheir throat, with which they break in pieces the shells of the fish theyswallow. We always find a great many shells in their maws, crushed inpieces. The shellfish are oysters of 3 sorts, namely long-oysters, commonoysters, growing upon rocks in great abundance and very flat; and anothersort of large oysters, fat and crooked; the shell of this not easily tobe distinguished from a stone. Three or four of these roasted willsuffice a man for one meal. Cockles, as big as a man's head; of which 2or 3 are enough for a meal; they are very fat and sweet. Crawfish, shrimps, etc. Here are also many green-turtle, some alligators andgrandpisces, etc. 

ITS ORIGINAL NATIVES DESCRIBED. 

The original natives of this island are Indians, they are of a middlestature, straight-bodied, slender-limbed, long-visaged; their hair blackand lank; their skins very swarthy. They are very dexterous and nimble, but withal lazy in the high degree. They are said to be dull ineverything but treachery and barbarity. Their houses are but low andmean, their clothing only a small cloth about their middle; but some ofthem for ornament have frontlets of mother-of-pearl, or thin pieces ofsilver or gold, made of an oval form of the breadth of a crown-piece, curiously notched round the edges; five of these placed one by another alittle above the eyebrows making a sufficient guard and ornament fortheir forehead. They are so thin and placed on their foreheads soartificially that they seem reverted thereon: and indeed the pearl-oystershells make a more splendid show than either silver or gold. Others ofthem have palmetto-caps made in divers forms. 

As to their marriages they take as many wives as they can maintain; andsometimes they sell their children to purchase more wives. I enquiredabout their religion and was told they had none. Their common subsistenceis by Indian corn, which every man plants for himself. They take butlittle pains to clear their land for in the dry time they set fire to thewithered grass and shrubs, and that burns them out a plantation for thenext wet season. What other grain they have beside Indian corn I knownot. Their plantations are very mean; for they delight most in hunting;and here are wild buffaloes and hogs enough, though very shy because oftheir so frequent hunting. 

They have a few boats and some fishermen. Their arms are lances, thickround short truncheons and targets; with these they hunt and kill theirgame and their enemies too; for this island is now divided into manykingdoms, and all of different languages; though in their customs andmanner of living, as well as shape and colour, they seem to be of onestock. 

THE PORTUGUESE AND DUTCH SETTLEMENTS. 

The chiefest kingdoms are Kupang, Amabia, Lortribie, Pobumbie, Namquimal;the island also of Anamabao, or Anabao, is a kingdom. Each of these has asultan who is supreme in his province and kingdom, and has under himseveral rajas and other inferior officers. The sultans for the most partare enemies to each other, which enmities are fomented and kept up by theDutch, whose fort and factory is in the kingdom of Kupang; and thereforethe bay near which they are settled, is commonly called Kupang Bay. Theyhave only as much ground as they can keep within reach of their guns; yetthis whole kingdom is at peace with them; and they freely trade together;as also with the islanders on Anabao, who are in amity as well with thenatives of Kupang as with the Dutch residing there; but they areimplacable enemies to those of Amabie, who are their next neighbours, andin amity with the Portuguese: as are also the kingdoms of Pobumbie, Namquimal and Lortribie. It is very probable that these 2 Europeansettlements on this island are the greatest occasion of their continuedwars. The Portuguese vaunt highly of their strength here and that theyare able at pleasure to rout the Dutch, if they had authority so to dofrom the king of Portugal; and they have written to the viceroy of Goaabout it: and though their request is not yet granted, yet (as they say)they live in expectation of it. These have no forts but depend on theiralliance with the natives: and indeed they are already so mixed that itis hard to distinguish whether they are Portuguese or Indians. Theirlanguage is Portuguese; and the religion they have is Romish. They seemin words to acknowledge the king of Portugal for their sovereign; yetthey will not accept of any officers sent by him. They speakindifferently the Malayan and their own native languages, as well asPortuguese; and the chiefest officers that I saw were of this sort;neither did I see above 3 or 4 white men among them; and of these 2 werepriests. Of this mixed breed there are some thousands; of whom some havesmall arms of their own, and know how to use them. The chiefest person(as I before said) is called Captain More or Maior: he is a white man, sent hither by the viceroy of Goa, and seems to have great command here. I did not see him; for he seldom comes down. His residence is at a placecalled Porta Nova; which the people at Laphao told me was a great wayoff; but I could not get any more particular account. Some told me thathe is most commonly in the mountains, with an army of Indians, to guardthe passes between them and the Kupangayans, especially in the dry times. The next man to him is Alexis Mendosa: he is a right Indian, speaks verygood Portuguese, and is of the Romish religion. He lives 5 or 6 milesfrom the sea, and is called the lieutenant. (This is he whom I calledgovernor, when at Laphao. ) He commands next to Captain More, and hasunder him another at this fort (at the seaside) if it may be so-called. He also is called lieutenant and is an Indian Portuguese. 

Besides this mongrel breed of Indians and Portuguese here are also someChinamen, merchants from Macao: they bring hither coarse rice, gold, tea, iron-work, porcelain, and silk both wrought and raw: they get in exchangepure gold as it is here gathered, beeswax, sandalwood, coir, etc. It issaid there are about 20 small China vessels come hither every year fromMacao; and commonly one vessel a year from Goa, which brings Europeancommodities and calicos, muslins, etc. Here are likewise some small barksbelonging to this place, that trade to Batavia, and bring from thenceboth European and Indian goods and rice. The vessels generally come herein March and stay till September. 

The Dutch as I before said are settled in the kingdom of Kupang, wherethey have a small neat stone fort. It seems to be pretty strong; yet, asI was informed, had been taken by a French pirate about 2 years ago: theDutch were used very barbarously, and ever since are very jealous of anystrangers that come this way; which I myself experienced. These dependmore on their own strength than on the natives their friends; having goodguns, powder, and shot enough on all occasions, and soldiers sufficientto manage the business here, all well disciplined and in good order;which is a thing the Portuguese their neighbours are altogether destituteof, they having no European soldiers, few arms, less ammunition, andtheir fort consisting of no more than 6 bad guns planted against the sea, whose touch-holes (as was before observed) are so enlarged by time that agreat part of the strength of the powder flies away there; and, havingsoldiers in pay, the natives on all occasions are hired; and theirgovernment now is so loose that they will admit of no more officers fromPortugal or Goa. They have also little or no supply of arms or ammunitionfrom thence, but buy it as often as they can of the Dutch, Chinese, etc. , so that upon the whole it seems improbable that they should ever attemptto drive out the Dutch for fear of loosing themselves, notwithstandingtheir bosomed prowess and alliance with the natives: and indeed, as faras I could hear, they have business enough to keep their own presentterritories from the incursions of the Kupangayans; who are friends tothe Dutch, and whom doubtless the Dutch have ways enough to preserve intheir friendship; besides that they have an inveterate malice to theirneighbours, insomuch that they kill all they meet, and bring away theirheads in triumph. The great men of Kupang stick the heads of those theyhave killed on poles; and set them on the tops of their houses; and thesethey esteem above all their other riches. The inferior sort bring theheads of those they kill into houses made for that purpose; of whichthere was one at the Indian village near the fort Concordia, almost fullof heads, as I was told. I know not what encouragement they have fortheir inhumanity. 

THE MALAYAN LANGUAGE GENERALLY SPOKEN HERE. 

The Dutch have always 2 sloops belonging to their fort; in these they goabout the island and trade with the natives and, as far as I could learn, they trade indifferently with them all. For though the inland people areat war with each other, yet those by the seaside seem to be littleconcerned; and, generally speaking the Malayan language, are verysociable and easily induced to trade with those that speak that language;which the Dutch here always learn; besides, being well acquainted withthe treachery of these people, they go well armed among them, and arevery vigilant never to give them an opportunity to hurt them; and it isvery probable that they supply them with such goods as the Portuguesecannot. 

LORANTUCA ON THE ISLAND ENDE. 

The Malayan language, as I have before said, is generally spoken amongstall the islands hereabouts. The greater the trade is the more thislanguage is spoken: in some it is become their only language; in othersit is but little spoken, and that by the seaside only. With this languagethe Mahomedan religion did spread itself, and was got hither before anyEuropean Christians came: but now, though the language is still used, theMahomedan religion falls, wherever the Portuguese or Dutch are settled;unless they be very weak, as at Solor and Ende, where the chief languageis Malayan, and the religion Mahomedanism; though the Dutch are settledat Solor, and the Portuguese at the east end of the island Ende, at aplace called Lorantuca; which, as I was informed, is a large town, has apretty strong fort and safe harbour. The chief man there (as at Timor) iscalled Captain More, and is as absolute as the other. These 2 principalmen are enemies to each other; and by their letters and messages to Goainveigh bitterly against each other; and are ready to do all the illoffices they can; yet neither of them much regards the viceroy of Goa, asI was informed. 

Lorantuca is said to be more populous than any town on Timor; the islandEnde affording greater plenty of all manner of fruit, and being muchbetter supplied with all necessaries than Laphao; especially with sheep, goats, hogs, poultry, etc. But it is very dangerous getting into thisharbour because of the violent tides between the islands Ende and Solor. In the middle channel between Timor and the range of islands to thenorthward of it, whereof Ende and Solor are 2, there runs a constantcurrent all the year to the westward; though near either shore there aretides indeed; but the tide of flood, which sets west, running 8 or 9hours, and the ebb not exceeding 3 or 4 hours, the tide in some placesrises 9 or 10 foot on a spring. 

THE SEASONS, WINDS, AND WEATHER AT TIMOR. 

The seasons of the year here at Timor are much the same as in otherplaces in south latitude. The fair weather begins in April or May andcontinues to October, then the tornadoes begin to come, but no violentbad weather till the middle of December. Then there are violent west ornorth-west winds, with rain, till towards the middle of February. In Maythe southerly winds set in and blow very strong on the north side of theisland, but fair. There is great difference of winds on the 2 sides ofthe island: for the southerly winds are but very faint on the south side, and very hard on the north side; and the bad weather on the south sidecomes in very violent in October, which on the north side comes not tillDecember. You have very good sea and land breezes, when the weather isfair; and may run indifferently to the east or west, as your businesslies. We found from September to December the winds veering all round thecompass gradually in 24 hours time; but such a constant western currentthat it is much harder getting to the east than west at or near springtides: which I have more than once made trial of. For weighing from Babaoat 6 o'clock in the morning on the 12 instant we kept plying under theshore till the 20th, meeting with such a western current that we gainedvery little. We had land and seabreezes; but so faint that we couldhardly stem the current; and when it was calm between the breezes wedrove a-stern faster than ever we sailed ahead. 

CHAPTER 3. 

PLYING ON THE NEW GUINEA COAST. 

DEPARTURE FROM TIMOR. 

On the 12th of December 1699 we sailed from Babao, coasting along theisland Timor to the eastward towards New Guinea. It was the 20th beforewe got as far as Laphao, which is but forty leagues. We saw black cloudsin the north-west and expected the wind from that quarter above a monthsooner. 

THE ISLANDS OMBA AND FETTER. 

That afternoon we saw the opening between the islands Omba and Fetter, but feared to pass through in the night. At two o'clock in the morning itfell calm; and continued so till noon, in which time we drove with thecurrent back again south-west six or seven leagues. 

On the 22nd, steering to the eastward to get through between Omba andFetter, we met a very strong tide against us, so that we, although we hada very fresh gale, yet made way very slowly; yet before night gotthrough. By a good observation we found that the south-east point of Ombalies in latitude 8 degrees 25 minutes. In my charts it is laid down in 8degrees 10 minutes. My true course from Babao is east 25 degrees north, distance one hundred and eighty-three miles. We sounded several timeswhen near Omba, but had no ground. On the north-east point of Omba we sawfour or five men, and a little further three pretty houses on a lowpoint, but did not go ashore. 

At five this afternoon we had a tornado which yielded much rain, thunderand lightning; yet we had but little wind. The 24th in the morning wecaught a large shark, which gave all the ship's company a plentiful meal. 

A BURNING ISLAND. 

The 27th we saw the burning island, it lies in latitude 6 degrees 36minutes south; it is high and but small. It runs from the sea a littlesloping towards the top; which is divided in the middle into two peaks, between which issued out much smoke: I have not seen more from anyvolcano. I saw no trees; but the north side appeared green, and the restlooked very barren. 

THEIR MISSING THE TURTLE ISLES. 

Having passed the burning island I shaped my course for two islandscalled Turtle Isles which lie north-east by east a little easterly, anddistant about fifty leagues from the burning isle. I, fearing the windmight veer to the eastward of the north, steered 20 leagues north-east, then north-east by east. On the 28th we saw two small low islands calledLuca Paros, to the north of us. At noon I accounted myself 20 leaguesshort of the Turtle Isles. 

BANDA ISLES. 

The next morning, being in the latitude of the Turtle Islands, we lookedout sharp for them but saw no appearance of any island till 11 o'clock;when we saw an island at a great distance. At first we supposed it mightbe one of the Turtle Isles: but it was not laid down true, neither inlatitude nor longitude from the burning isle, nor from the Luca Paros, which last I took to be a great help to guide me, they being laid downvery well from the burning isle, and that likewise in true latitude anddistance from Omba: so that I could not tell what to think of the islandnow in sight; we having had fair weather, so that we could not pass bythe Turtle Isles without seeing them; and this in sight was much too faroff for them. We found variation 1 degree 2 minutes east. In theafternoon I steered north-east by east for the islands that we saw. At 2o'clock I went and looked over the fore-yard, and saw 2 islands at muchgreater distance than the Turtle Islands are laid down in my charts; oneof them was a very high peaked mountain, cleft at top, and much like theburning island that we passed by, but bigger and higher; the other was apretty long high flat island. Now I was certain that these were not theTurtle Islands, and that they could be no other than the Banda Isles; yetwe steered in to make them plainer. At 3 o'clock we discovered anothersmall flat island to the north-west of the others, and saw a great dealof smoke rise from the top of the high island; at 4 we saw other smallislands, by which I was now assured that these were the Banda Islesthere. At 5 I altered my course and steered east, and at 8east-south-east; because I would not be seen by the inhabitants of thoseislands in the morning. 

BIRD ISLAND. 

We had little wind all night: and in the morning as soon as it was lightwe saw another high peaked island: at 8 it bore south-south-east halfeast, distance 8 leagues. And this I knew to be Bird Isle. It is laiddown in our charts in latitude 5 degrees 9 minutes south, which is toofar southerly by 27 miles according to our observation; and the likeerror in laying down the Turtle Islands might be the occasion of ourmissing them. 

At night I shortened sail for fear of coming too nigh some islands thatstretch away bending like a half moon from Ceram towards Timor, and whichin my course I must of necessity pass through. The next morning betimes Isaw them; and found them to be at a farther distance from Bird Islandthan I expected. In the afternoon it fell quite calm; and when we had alittle wind it was so unconstant, flying from one point to another, thatI could not without difficulty get through the islands where I designed:besides I found a current setting to the southward; so that it wasbetwixt 5 and 6 in the evening before I passed through the islands; andthen just weathered little Waiela, whereas I thought to have been 2 or 3leagues more northerly. We saw the day before, betwixt 2 and 3, a spoutbut a small distance from us. It fell down out of a black cloud thatyielded great store of rain, thunder, and lightning: this cloud hoveredto the southward of us for the space of three hours, and then drew to thewestward a great pace; at which time it was that we saw the spout, whichhung fast to the cloud till it broke; and then the cloud whirled about tothe south-east, then to east-north-east; where, meeting with an island, it spent itself and so dispersed; and immediately we had a little of thetail of it, having had none before. Afterward we saw a smoke on theisland Kosiway, which continued all night. 

1700. 

THEY DESCRY THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 

On New Year's Day we first descried the land of New Guinea, whichappeared to be high land; and the next day we saw several high islands onthe coast of New Guinea, and ran in with the mainland. The shore herelies along east-south-east and west-north-west. It is high even land, very well clothed with tall flourishing trees, which appeared very greenand gave us a very pleasant prospect. We ran to the westward of fourmountainous islands; and in the night had a small tornado, which broughtwith it some rain and a fair wind. We had fair weather for a long time;only when near any land we had some tornadoes; but off at sea commonlyclear weather; though if in sight of land we usually saw many blackclouds hovering about it. 

THEY ANCHOR ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 

On the 5th and 6th of January we plied to get in with the land; designingto anchor, fill water, and spend a little time in searching the country, till after the change of the moon; for I found a strong current settingagainst us. We anchored in 38 fathom water, good oazie ground. We had anisland of a league long without us, about 3 miles distant; and we rodefrom the main about a mile. The easternmost point of land seen bore eastby south half south, distance 3 leagues: and the westernmostwest-south-west half south, distance 2 leagues. So soon as we anchored wesent the pinnace to look for water, and try if they could catch any fish. Afterwards we sent the yawl another way to see for water. Before nightthe pinnace brought on board several sorts of fruits that they found inthe woods, such as I never saw before. 

A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE, AND OF A STRANGE FOWL FOUND THERE. 

One of my men killed a stately land-fowl, as big as the largestdunghill-cock. It was of a sky-colour; only in the middle of the wingswas a white spot, about which were some reddish spots: on the crown ithad a large bunch of long feathers, which appeared very pretty. His billwas like a pigeon's; he had strong legs and feet, like dunghill-fowls;only the claws were reddish. His crop was full of small berries. It laysan egg as big as a large hen's egg; for our men climbed the tree where itnested and brought off one egg. They found water; and reported that thetrees were large, tall and very thick; and that they saw no sign ofpeople. At night the yawl came aboard and brought a wooden fishgig, veryingeniously made; the matter of it was a small cane; they found it by asmall barbecue, where they also saw a shattered canoe. 

GREAT QUANTITIES OF MACKEREL. 

The next morning I sent the boatswain ashore a-fishing and at one haul hecaught 352 mackerels and about 20 other fishes; which I caused to beequally divided among all my company. I sent also the gunner and chiefmate to search about if they could find convenient anchoring nearer awatering-place: by night they brought word that they had found a finestream of good water, where the boat could come close to and it was veryeasy to be filled; and that the ship might anchor as near to it as Ipleased: so I went thither. The next morning therefore we anchored in 25fathom water, soft oazie ground, about a mile from the river: we got onboard 3 tun of water that night; and caught 2 or 3 pike-fish, in shapemuch like a parracota, but with a longer snout, something resembling agar, yet not so long. The next day I sent the boat again for water andbefore night all my casks were full. 

A WHITE ISLAND. 

Having filled here about 15 tuns of water, seeing we could catch butlittle fish, and had no other refreshments, I intended to sail next day;but finding that we wanted wood I sent to cut some; and going ashore tohasten it, at some distance from the place where our men were, I found asmall cove where I saw two barbecues, which appeared not to be above 2months standing: the spars were cut with some sharp instrument; so that, if done by the natives, it seems that they have iron. On the 10th, alittle after 12 o'clock, we weighed and stood over to the north side ofthe bay; and at 1 o'clock stood out with the wind at north andnorth-north-west. At 4 we passed out by a White Island, which I so namedfrom its many white cliffs, having no name in our charts. It is about aleague long, pretty high, and very woody: it is about 5 miles from themain, only at the west end it reaches within 3 miles of it. At somedistance off at sea the west point appears like a cape land; the northside trends away north-north-west, and the east side east-south-east. This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes south; and the meridiandistance from Babao, 500 and 12 miles east. After we were out to sea weplied to get to the northward; but met with such a strong current againstus that we got but little. For if the wind favoured us in the night, thatwe got 3 or 4 leagues; we lost it again and were driven as far asternnext morning, so that we plied here several days. 

The 14th, being past a point of land that we had been 3 days gettingabout, we found little or no current; so that, having the wind atnorth-west by west and west-north-west, we stood to the northward, andhad several soundings: at 3 o'clock, 38 fathom; the nearest part of NewGuinea being about 3 leagues distance: at 4, 37; at 5, 36; at 6, 36; at8, 33 fathom; then the cape was about 4 leagues distant; so that as weran off we found our water shallower. We had then some islands to thewestward of us, at about four leagues distance. 

THEY ANCHOR AT AN ISLAND CALLED BY THE INHABITANTS PULO SABUDA. ADESCRIPTION OF IT AND ITS INHABITANTS AND PRODUCT. 

A little after noon we saw smokes on the islands to the west of us; and, having a fine gale of wind, I steered away for them: at 7 o'clock in theevening we anchored in 35 fathom, about two leagues from an island, goodsoft oazie ground. We lay still all night, and saw fires ashore. In themorning we weighed again, and ran farther in, thinking to have shallowerwater; but we ran within a mile of the shore, and came to in 38 fathom, good soft holding ground. While we were under sail 2 canoes came offwithin call of us: they spoke to us, but we did not understand theirlanguage, nor signs. We waved to them to come aboard, and I called tothem in the Malayan language to do the same; but they would not; yet theycame so nigh us that we could show them such things as we had to truckwith them; yet neither would this entice them to come aboard; but theymade signs for us to come ashore, and away they went. Then I went afterthem in my pinnace, carrying with me knives, beads, glasses, hatchets, etc. When we came near the shore I called to them in the Malayanlanguage: I saw but 2 men at first, the rest lying in ambush behind thebushes; but as soon as I threw ashore some knives and other toys theycame out, flung down their weapons, and came into the water by the boat'sside, making signs of friendship by pouring water on their heads with onehand which they dipped into the sea. The next day in the afternoonseveral other canoes came aboard and brought many roots and fruits, whichwe purchased. 

This island has no name in our charts but the natives call it PuloSabuda. It is about 3 leagues long and 2 miles wide, more or less. It isof a good height so as to be seen 11 or 12 leagues. It is very rocky; yetabove the rocks there is good yellow and black mould; not deep yetproducing plenty of good tall trees, and bearing any fruits or rootswhich the inhabitants plant. I do not know all its produce; but what wesaw were plantains, coconuts, pineapples, oranges, papaws, potatoes, andother large roots. Here are also another sort of wild jacas, about thebigness of a man's two fists, full of stones or kernels, which eatpleasant enough when roasted. The libby-tree grows here in the swampyvalleys, of which they make sago cakes: I did not see them make any butwas told by the inhabitants that it was made of the pith of the tree inthe same manner I have described in my Voyage round the World. Theyshowed me the tree whereof it was made, and I bought about 40 of thecakes. I bought also 3 or 4 nutmegs in their shell, which did not seem tohave been long gathered; but, whether they be the growth of this islandor not, the natives would not tell whence they had them, and seemed toprize them very much. What beasts the island affords I know not: but hereare both sea- and land-fowl. Of the first boobies and men-of-war-birdsare the chief; some galdens, and small milk-white crab-catchers. Theland-fowls are pigeons, about the bigness of mountain-pigeons in Jamaica;and crows about the bigness of those in England, and much like them; butthe inner part of their feathers are white, and the outside black; sothat they appear all black, unless you extend the feathers. Here arelarge sky-coloured birds, such as we lately killed on New Guinea; andmany other small birds unknown to us. Here are likewise abundance ofbats, as big as young coneys; their necks, head, ears and noses, likefoxes; their hair rough; that about their necks is of a whitish yellow, that on their heads and shoulders black; their wings are 4 foot over fromtip to tip: they smell like foxes. The fish are bass, rock-fish, and asort of fish like mullet, old-wives, whip-rays, and some other sorts thatI know not, but no great plenty of any; for it is deep water till withinless than a mile of the shore; then there is a bank of coral rocks withinwhich you have shoal water, white clean sand: so there is no good fishingwith the seine. 

This island lies in latitude 2 degrees 43 minutes south and meridiandistance from Port Babao on the island Timor 486 miles. Besides thisisland here are 9 or 10 other small islands, as they are laid down in thecharts. 

The inhabitants of this island are a sort of very tawny Indians, withlong black hair; who in their manners differ but little from theMindanayans, and others of these eastern islands. These seem to be thechief; for besides them we saw also shock curl-pated New Guinea negroes;many of which are slaves to the others, but I think not all. They arevery poor, wear no clothes, but have a clout about their middle, made ofthe rinds of the tops of palmetto-trees; but the women had a sort ofcalico cloths. Their chief ornaments are blue and yellow beads, wornabout their wrists. The men arm themselves with bows and arrows, lances, broad swords like those of Mindanao; their lances are pointed with bone. 

THE INDIANS' MANNER OF FISHING THERE. 

They strike fish very ingeniously with wooden fishgigs, and have a veryingenious way of making the fish rise: for they have a piece of wood, curiously carved and painted much like a dolphin (and perhaps otherfigures) these they let down into the water by a line with a small weightto sink it; when they think it low enough they haul the line into theirboats very fast, and the fish rise up after this figure; and they standready to strike them when they are near the surface of the water. Buttheir chief livelihood is from their plantations. Yet they have largeboats, and go over to New Guinea where they get slaves, fine parrots, etc. , which they carry to Goram and exchange for calicos. One boat camefrom thence a little before I arrived here; of whom I bought someparrots; and would have bought a slave but they would not barter foranything but calicos, which I had not. Their houses on this side werevery small, and seemed only to be for necessity; but on the other side ofthe island we saw good large houses. Their proas are narrow withoutlagers on each side, like other Malayans. I cannot tell of whatreligion these are; but I think they are not Mahomedans, by theirdrinking brandy out of the same cup with us without any scruple. At thisisland we continued till the 20th instant, having laid in store of suchroots and fruits as the island afforded. 

On the 20th at half hour after 6 in the morning I weighed and, standingout, we saw a large boat full of men lying at the north point of theisland. As we passed by they rowed towards their habitations, where wesupposed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us (though we gavethem no cause of terror) or for some differences among themselves. 

We stood to the northward till 7 in the evening; then saw a rippling;and, the water being discoloured, we sounded, and had but 22 fathom. Iwent about and stood to the westward till 2 next morning, then tackedagain and had these several soundings: at 8 in the evening, 22; at 10, 25; at 11, 27; at 12, 28 fathom; at 2 in the morning 26; at 4, 24; at 6, 23; at 8, 28; at 12, 22. 

ARRIVAL AT MABO, THE NORTH-WEST CAPE OF NEW GUINEA. A DESCRIPTION OF IT. 

We passed by many small islands and among many dangerous shoals withoutany remarkable occurrence till the 4th of February, when we got within 3leagues of the north-west cape of New Guinea, called by the Dutch CapeMabo. Off this cape there lies a small woody island, and many islands ofdifferent sizes to the north and north-east of it. This part of NewGuinea is high land, adorned with tall trees that appeared very green andflourishing. The cape itself is not very high, but ends in a low sharppoint; and on either side there appears another such point at equaldistances, which makes it resemble a diamond. This only appears when youare abreast of the middle point; and then you have no ground within 3leagues of the shore. 

COCKLE ISLAND. 

In the afternoon we passed by the cape and stood over for the islands. Before it was dark we were got within a league of the westermost; but hadno ground with 50 fathom of line. However, fearing to stand nearer in thedark, we tacked and stood to the east, and plied all night. The nextmorning we were got 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward of that island; and, having the wind easterly, we stood in to the northward among the islands, sounded, and had no ground. Then I sent in my boat to sound, and they hadground with 50 fathom near a mile from the shore. We tacked before theboat came aboard again for fear of a shoal that was about a mile to theeast of that island the boat went to; from whence also a shoal pointstretched out itself till it met the other: they brought with them such acockle as I have mentioned in my Voyage round the World, found nearCelebes; and they saw many more, some bigger than that which they broughtaboard, as they said; and for this reason I named it Cockle Island. Isent them to sound again, ordering them to fire a musket if they foundgood anchoring; we were then standing to the southward, with a finebreeze. As soon as they fired I tacked and stood in: they told me theyhad 50 fathom when they fired. I tacked again, and made all the sail Icould to get out, being near some rocky islands and shoals to leeward ofus. The breeze increased, and I thought we were out of danger; but, having a shoal just by us, and the wind falling again, I ordered the boatto tow us, and by their help we got clear from it. We had a strong tidesetting to the westward. 

COCKLES OF SEVENTY-EIGHT POUND WEIGHT. 

At 1 o'clock, being past the shoal and finding the tide setting to thewestward, I anchored in 35 fathom, coarse sand with small coral andshells. Being nearest to Cockle Island I immediately sent both the boatsthither; one to cut wood, and the other to fish. At 4 in the afternoon, having a small breeze at south-south-west, I made a sign for my boats tocome aboard. They brought some wood and a few small cockles, none of themexceeding 10 pound weight; whereas the shell of the great one weighed 78pound; but it was now high-water and therefore they could get no bigger. They also brought on board some pigeons, of which we found plenty on allthe islands where we touched in these seas. Also in many places we sawmany large bats, but killed none, except those I mentioned at PuloSabuda. As our boats came aboard we weighed and made sail, steeringeast-south-east as long as the wind held; in the morning we found we hadgot 4 or 5 leagues to the east of the place where we weighed. We stood toand fro till 11; and, finding that we lost ground, anchored in 42 fathom, coarse gravelly sand with some coral. This morning we thought we saw asail. 

PIGEON ISLAND. 

In the afternoon I went ashore on a small woody island about 2 leaguesfrom us. Here I found the greatest number of pigeons that ever I saweither in the east or West Indies, and small cockles in the sea round theisland in such quantities that we might have laden the boat in an hour'stime: these were not above 10 or 12 pound weight. We cut some wood andbrought off cockles enough for all the ship's company; but having nosmall shot we could kill no pigeons. I returned about 4 o'clock; and thenmy gunner and both mates went thither, and in less than three-quarters ofan hour they killed and brought off 10 pigeons. Here is a tide: the floodsets west and the ebb east; but the latter is very faint and but of smallcontinuance. And so we found it ever since we came from Timor. 

THE WIND HEREABOUTS. 

The winds we found easterly, between north-east and east-south-east; sothat, if these continue, it is impossible to beat farther to the eastwardon this coast against wind and current. These easterly winds increasedfrom the time we were in the latitude of about 2 degrees south; and as wedrew nigher the Line they hung more easterly. And now, being to the northof the continent of New Guinea where the coast lies east and west, I findthe tradewind here at east; which yet in higher latitudes is usually atnorth-north-west and north-west; and so I did expect them here, it beingto the south of the Line. 

AN EMPTY COCKLESHELL WEIGHING TWO HUNDRED FIFTY-EIGHT POUND. 

The 7th in the morning I sent my boat ashore on Pigeon Island and stayedtill noon. In the afternoon my men returned, brought 22 pigeons, and manycockles, some very large, some small: they also brought one empty shellthat weighed 258 pound. 

KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND. A DESCRIPTION OF IT. 

At 4 o'clock we weighed, having a small westerly wind and a tide with us;at 7 in the evening we anchored in 42 fathom, near King William's Island, where I went ashore the next morning, drank His Majesty's health, andhonoured it with his name. It is about 2 leagues and a half in length, very high, and extraordinarily well clothed with woods. The trees are ofdivers sorts, most unknown to us, but all very green and flourishing;many of them had flowers, some white, some purple, others yellow; allwhich smelt very fragrantly. The trees are generally tall andstraight-bodied, and may be fit for any uses. I saw one of a clean body, without knot or limb, 60 are 70 foot high by estimation. It was 3 of myfathoms about, and kept its bigness without any sensible decrease even tothe top. The mould of the island is black but not deep; it being veryrocky. On the sides and top of the island are many palmetto-trees whoseheads we could discern over all the other trees, but their bodies wecould not see. 

About 1 in the afternoon we weighed and stood to the eastward, betweenthe main and King William's Island; leaving the island on our larboardside and sounding till we were past the island; and then we had noground. Here we found the flood setting east by north, and the ebb westby south. There were shoals and small islands between us and the main, which caused the tide to set very inconstantly, and make many whirlingsin the water; yet we did not find the tide to set strong any way, nor thewater to rise much. 

PLYING ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 

On the 9th, being to the eastward of King William's Island, we plied allday between the main and other islands, having easterly winds and fairweather till 7 the next morning. Then we had very hard rain till 8 andsaw many shoals of fish. We lay becalmed off a pretty deep bay on NewGuinea, about 12 or 14 leagues wide and 7 or 8 leagues deep, having lowland near its bottom, but high land without. The eastermost part of NewGuinea seen bore east by south, distant 12 leagues: Cape Mabowest-south-west half south, distant 7 leagues. 

At 1 in the afternoon it began to rain and continued till 6 in theevening; so that, having but little wind and most calms, we lay still offthe forementioned bay, having King William's Island still in sight, though distant by judgment 15 or 16 leagues west. We saw many shoals ofsmall fish, some sharks, and 7 or 8 dolphins; but caught none. In theafternoon, being about 4 leagues from the shore, we saw an opening in theland which seemed to afford good harbour: in the evening we saw a largefire there; and I intended to go in (if winds and weather would permit)to get some acquaintance with the natives. 

Since the 4th instant that we passed Cape Mabo to the 12th we had smalleasterly winds and calms, so that we anchored several times; where I mademy men cut wood, that we might have a good stock when a westerly windshould present; and so we plied to the eastward, as winds and currentswould permit; having not got in all above 30 leagues to the eastward ofCape Mabo. But on the 12th, at 4 in the afternoon, a small gale sprang upat north-east by north with rain: at 5 it shuffled about to north-west, from thence to the south-west, and continued between those 2 points apretty brisk gale; so that we made sail and steered away north-east, tillthe 13th in the morning, to get about the Cape of Good Hope. When it wasday we steered north-east half east, then north-east by east till 7o'clock; and being then 7 or 8 leagues off shore we steered away east;the shore trending east by south. We had very much rain all night, sothat we could not carry much sail; yet we had a very steady gale. At 8this morning the weather cleared up and the wind decreased to a finetop-gallant gale, and settled at west by south. We had more rain these 3days past than all the voyage in so short time. We were now about 6leagues from the land of New Guinea, which appeared very high; and we saw2 headlands, about 20 leagues asunder; the one to the east, and the otherto the west, which last is called the Cape of Good Hope. We foundvariation east 4 degrees. 

FAULT OF THE CHARTS. 

The 15th in the morning between 12 and 2 o'clock it blew a very briskgale at north-west and looked very black in the south-west. At 2 it flewabout at once to the south-south-west and rained very hard. The windsettled some time at west-south-west, and we steered east-north-east till3 in the morning: then, the wind and rain abating, we steered east halfnorth for fear of coming near the land. Presently after, it being alittle clear, the man at the bowsprit-end called out, "Land on ourstarboard bow. " We looked out and saw it plain. I presently sounded andhad but 10 fathom soft ground. The master, being somewhat scared, camerunning in haste with this news, and said it was best to anchor: I toldhim no, but sound again; then we had 12 fathom; the next cast, 13 and ahalf; the 4th, 17 fathom; and then no ground with 50 fathom line. Howeverwe kept off the island and did not go so fast but that we could see anyother danger before we came nigh it. For here might have been moreislands not laid down in my charts besides this. For I searched all thecharts I had, if perchance I might find any island in the one which wasnot in the others; but I could find none near us. When it was day we wereabout 5 leagues off the land we saw; but, I believe, not above 5 mile, orat most 2 leagues, off it when we first saw it in the night. 

PROVIDENCE ISLAND. 

This is a small island but pretty high; I named it Providence. About 5leagues to the southward of this there is another island which is calledWilliam Schouten's Island and laid down in our charts: it is a highisland and about 20 leagues long. 

It was by mere Providence that we missed the small island. For had notthe wind come to west-south-west and blown hard, so that we steeredeast-north-east, we had been upon it by our course that we steeredbefore, if we could not have seen it. This morning we saw many greattrees and logs swim by us; which it is probable came out of some greatrivers on the main. 

THEY CROSS THE LINE. 

On the 16th we crossed the Line, and found variation 6 degrees 26 minuteseast. The 18th by my observation at noon we found that we had had acurrent setting to the southward, and probably that drew us in so nighSchouten's Island. For this 24 hours we steered east by north with alarge wind, yet made but an east by south half south course; though thevariation was not above 7 degrees east. 

The 21st we had a current setting to the northward, which is against thetrue trade monsoon, it being now near the full moon. I did expect ithere, as in all other places. We had variation 8 degrees 45 minutes east. The 22nd we found but little current; if any, it set to the southward. 

A SNAKE PURSUED BY FISH. 

On the 23rd in the afternoon we saw 2 snakes; and the next morninganother, passing by us, which was furiously assaulted by 2 fishes thathad kept us company 5 or 6 days. They were shaped like mackerel and wereabout that bigness and length, and of a yellow-greenish colour. The snakeswam away from them very fast, keeping his head above water; the fishsnapped at his tail; but when he turned himself that fish would withdraw, and another would snap; so that by turns they kept him employed; yet hestill defended himself and swam away a great pace till they were out ofsight. 

The 25th betimes in the morning we saw an island to the southward of usat about 15 leagues distance. We steered away for it, supposing it to bethat which the Dutch call Wishart's Island; but, finding it otherwise, Icalled it Matthias; it being that saint's day. This island is about 9 or10 leagues long, mountainous and woody, with many savannahs, and somespots of land which seemed to be cleared. 

SQUALLY ISLAND. 

At 8 in the evening we lay by, intending, if I could, to anchor underMatthias Isle. But the next morning, seeing another island about 7 or 8leagues to the eastward of it, we steered away for it; at noon we came upfair with its south-west end, intending to run along by it and anchor onthe south-east side: but the tornadoes came in so thick and hard that Icould not venture in. This island is pretty low and plain, and clothedwith wood; the trees were very green, and appeared to be large and tall, as thick as they could stand one by another. It is about 2 or 3 leagueslong, and at the south-west point there is another small low woody islandabout a mile round, and about a mile from the other. Between them thereruns a reef of rocks which joins them. (The biggest I named SquallyIsland. )

THE MAIN OF NEW GUINEA. 

Seeing we could not anchor here I stood away to the southward to make themain. But, having many hard squalls and tornadoes, we were often forcedto hand all our sails and steer more easterly to go before it. On the26th at 4 o'clock it cleared up to a hard sky, and a brisk settled gale;then we made as much sail as we could. At 5 it cleared up over the landand we saw, as we thought, Cape Solomaswer bearing south-south-eastdistance 10 leagues. We had many great logs and trees swimming by us allthis afternoon, and much grass; we steered in south-south-east till 6, then the wind slackened and we stood off till 7, having little wind; thenwe lay by till 10, at which time we made sail and steered away east allnight. The next morning, as soon as it was light, we made all the sail wecould, and steered away east-south-east, as the land lay; being fair insight of it, and not above 7 leagues distance. We passed by many smalllow woody islands which lay between us and the main, not laid down in ourcharts. We found variation 9 degrees 50 minutes east. 

The 28th we had many violent tornadoes, wind, rain, and some spouts; andin the tornadoes the wind shifted. In the night we had fair weather, butmore lightning than we had seen at any time this voyage. This morning weleft a large high island on our larboard side, called in the Dutch chartsWishart's Isle, about 6 leagues from the main; and, seeing many smokesupon the main, I therefore steered towards it. 

CHAPTER 4. 

NEW BRITAIN DISCOVERED. 

THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA. ITS INHABITANTS. SLINGERS BAY. 

The mainland at this place is high and mountainous, adorned with tallflourishing trees; the sides of the hills had many large plantations andpatches of cleared land; which, together with the smokes we saw, werecertain signs of its being well inhabited; and I was desirous to havesome commerce with the inhabitants. Being nigh the shore we saw first oneproa; a little after, 2 or 3 more; and at last a great many boats camefrom all the adjacent bays. When they were 46 in number they approachedso near us that we could see each other's signs, and hear each otherspeak; though we could not understand them, nor they us. They made signsfor us to go in towards the shore, pointing that way; it was squallyweather, which at first made me cautious of going too near; but, theweather beginning to look pretty well, I endeavoured to get into a bayahead of us, which we could have got into well enough at first; but whilewe lay by we were driven so far to leeward that now it was more difficultto get in. The natives lay in their proas round us; to whom I showedbeads, knives, glasses, to allure them to come nearer; but they wouldcome so nigh as to receive anything from us. Therefore I threw out somethings to them, namely a knife fastened to a piece of board, and a glassbottle corked up with some beads in it, which they took up and seemedwell pleased. They often struck their left breast with their right hand, and as often held up a black truncheon over their heads, which we thoughtwas a token of friendship; wherefore we did the like. And when we stoodin towards their shore they seemed to rejoice; but when we stood off theyfrowned, yet kept us company in their proas, still pointing to the shore. About 5 o'clock we got within the mouth of the bay and sounded severaltimes, but had no ground though within a mile of the shore. The basin ofthis bay was above 2 miles within us, into which we might have gone; but, as I was not assured of anchorage there, so I thought it not prudence torun in at this time; it being near night and seeing a black tornadorising in the west, which I most feared: besides we had near 200 men inproas close by us. And the bays on the shore were lined with men from oneend to the other, where there could not be less than 3 or 400 more. Whatweapons they had we know not, nor yet their design. Therefore I had, attheir first coming near us, got up all our small arms, and made severalput on cartouch boxes to prevent treachery. At last I resolved to go outagain: which, when the natives in their proas perceived, they began tofling stones at us as fast as they could, being provided with engines forthat purpose (wherefore I named this place Slingers Bay). But at thefiring of one gun they were all amazed, drew off and flung no morestones. They got together as if consulting what to do; for they did notmake in towards the shore, but lay still, though some of them were killedor wounded; and many of them had paid for their boldness, but that it wasunwilling to cut off any of them; which, if I had done, I could not hopeafterwards to bring them to treat with me. 

SMALL ISLANDS. 

The next day we sailed close by an island where we saw many smokes, andmen in the bays; out of which came 2 canoes, taking much pains toovertake us, but they could not, though we went with an easy sail; and Icould not now stay for them. As I passed by the south-east point Isounded several times within a mile of the sandy bays, but had no ground:about 3 leagues to the northward of the south-east point we opened alarge deep bay, secured from west-north-west and south-west winds. Therewere 2 other islands that lay to the north-east of it which secured thebay from north-east winds; one was but small, yet woody; the other was aleague long, inhabited and full of coconut-trees. I endeavoured to getinto this bay; but there came such flaws off from the high land over itthat I could not; besides we had many hard squalls which deterred me fromit; and, night coming on, I would not run any hazard, but bore away tothe small inhabited island to see if we could get anchoring on the eastside of it. When we came there we found the island so narrow that therecould be no shelter; therefore I tacked and stood towards the greaterisland again: and, being more than midway between both, I lay by, designing to endeavour for anchorage next morning. Between 7 and 8 atnight we spied a canoe close by us; and, seeing no more, suffered her tocome aboard. She had 3 men in her who brought off 5 coconuts, for which Igave each of them a knife and a string of beads to encourage them to comeoff again in the morning: but before these went away we saw 2 more canoescoming; therefore we stood away to the northward from them and then layby again till day. We saw no more boats this night; neither designed tosuffer any to come aboard in the dark. 

By nine o'clock the next morning we were got within a league of the greatisland, but were kept off by violent gusts of wind. These squalls gave uswarning of their approach by the clouds which hung over the mountains, and afterwards descended to the foot of them; and then it is we expectthem speedily. 

GERRIT DENNIS ISLE DESCRIBED. 

On the 3rd of March, being about 5 leagues to leeward of the greatisland, we saw the mainland ahead; and another great high island toleeward of us, distance about 7 leagues; which we bore away for. It iscalled in the Dutch charts Gerrit Denis Isle. It is about 14 or 15leagues round; high and mountainous, and very woody: some trees appearedvery large and tall; and the bays by the seaside are well stored withcoconut-trees; where we also saw some small houses. The sides of themountains are thick set with plantations; and the mould in the newcleared land seemed to be of a brown-reddish colour. This island is of noregular figure, but is full of points shooting forth into the sea;between which are many sandy bays, full of coconut-trees. The middle ofthe isle lies in 3 degrees 10 minutes south latitude. 

ITS INHABITANTS. 

It is very populous; the natives are very black, strong, and well-limbedpeople; having great round heads, their hair naturally curled and short, which they shave into several forms, and dye it also of divers colours, namely red, white and yellow. They have broad round faces with greatbottle noses, yet agreeable enough, till they disfigure them by painting, and by wearing great things through their noses as big as a man's thumband about four inches long; these are run clear through both nostrils, one end coming out by one cheek-bone, and the other end against theother; and their noses so stretched that only a small slip of themappears about the ornament. They have also great holes in their ears, wherein they wear such stuff as in their noses. 

THEIR PROAS. 

They are very dexterous active fellows in their proas, which are veryingeniously built. They are narrow and long with outlagers on one side;the head and stern higher than the rest, and carved into many devices, namely some fowl, fish, or a man's head, painted or carved: and though itis but rudely done, yet the resemblance appears plainly, and shows aningenious fancy. But with what instruments they make their proas orcarved work I know not; for they seem to be utterly ignorant of iron. They have very neat paddles with which they manage their proasdexterously and make great way through the water. Their weapons arechiefly lances, swords and slings, and some bows and arrows: they havealso wooden fishgigs for striking fish. Those that came to assault us inSlingers Bay on the main are in all respects like these; and I believethese are alike treacherous. Their speech is clear and distinct; thewords they used most when near us were "vacousee allamais, " and then theypointed to the shore. Their signs of friendship are either a greattruncheon, or bough of a tree full of leaves put on their heads; oftenstriking their heads with their hands. 

ANTHONY CAVE'S ISLAND. 

The next day, having a fresh gale of wind, we got under a high island, about 4 or 5 leagues round, very woody, and full of plantations upon thesides of the hills; and in the bays by the waterside are abundance ofcoconut-trees. It lies in the latitude of 3 degrees 25 minutes south, andmeridian distance from Cape Mabo 1316 miles. On the south-east part of itor 3 or 4 other small woody islands; one high and peaked, the other lowand flat; all bedecked with coconut-trees and other wood. On the norththere is another island of an indifferent height, and of a somewhatlarger circumference than the great high island last mentioned. We passedbetween this and the high island. The high island is called in the Dutchcharts Anthony Cave's Island. As for the flat low island and the othersmall one, it is probable they were never seen by the Dutch; nor theislands to the north of Gerrit Dennis Island. 

ITS INHABITANTS. 

As soon as we came near Cave's Island some canoes came about us and madesigns for us to come ashore, as all the rest had done before; probablythinking we could run the ship aground anywhere, as they did their proas;for we saw neither sail nor anchor among any of them, though most easternIndians have both. These had proas made of one tree, well dug, withoutlagers on one side: they were but small yet well shaped. Weendeavoured to anchor but found no ground within a mile of the shore: wekept close along the north side, still sounding till we came to thenorth-east end, but found no ground; the canoes still accompanying us;and the bays were covered with men going along as we sailed: many of themstrove to swim off to us but we left them astern. Being at the north-eastpoint we found a strong current setting to the north-west; so that thoughwe had steered to keep under the high island, yet we were driven towardsthe flat one. At this time 3 of the natives came aboard: I gave each ofthem a knife, a looking-glass, and a string of beads. I showed thempumpkins and coconut-shells, and made signs to them to bring some aboard, and had presently 3 coconuts out of one of the canoes. I showed themnutmegs, and by their signs I guessed they had some on the island. I alsoshowed them some gold-dust, which they seemed to know, and called out"manneel, manneel, " and pointed towards the land. A while after these menwere gone 2 or 3 canoes came from the flat island, and by signs invitedus to their island; at which the others seemed displeased, and used verymenacing gestures and (I believe) speeches to each other. Night coming onwe stood off to sea; and, having but little wind all night, were drivenaway to the north-west. We saw many great fires on the flat island. Theselast men that came off to us were all black, as those we had seen beforewith frizzled hair: they were very tall, lusty, well-shaped men; theywear great things in their noses, and paint as the others, but not much;they make the same signs of friendship, and their language seems to beone: but the others had proas, and these canoes. On the sides of some ofthese we saw the figures of several fish neatly cut; and these last werenot so shy as the others. 

TREES FULL OF WORMS FOUND IN THE SEA. 

Steering away from Cave's Island south-south-east we found a strongcurrent against us, which set only in some places in streams; and in themwe saw many trees and logs of wood which drove by us. We had but littlewood aboard; wherefore I hoisted out the pinnace and sent her to take upsome of this driftwood. In a little time she came aboard with a greattree in a tow, which we could hardly hoist in with all our tackles. Wecut up the tree and split it for firewood. It was much worm-eaten and hadin it some live worms above an inch long, and about the bigness of agoose-quill, and having their heads crusted over with a thin shell. 

ST. JOHN'S ISLAND. 

After this we passed by an island called by the Dutch St. John's Island, leaving it to the north of us. It is about 9 or 10 leagues round and verywell adorned with lofty trees. We saw many plantations on the sides ofthe hills, and abundance of coconut-trees about them; as also thickgroves on the bays by the seaside. As we came near it 3 canoes came offto us but would not come aboard. They were such as we had seen about theother islands: they spoke the same language, and made the same signs ofpeace; and their canoes were such as at Cave's Island. 

THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA. 

We stood along by St. John's Island till we came almost to the south-eastpoint; and then, seeing no more islands to the eastward of us, nor anylikelihood of anchoring under this, I steered away for the main of NewGuinea; we being now (as I supposed) to the east of it, on this northside. My design of seeing these islands as I passed along was to get woodand water, but could find no anchor-ground, and therefore could not do asI purposed. Besides, these islands are all so populous that I dared notsend my boat ashore unless I could have anchored pretty nigh. Wherefore Irather chose to prosecute my design on the main, the season of the yearbeing now at hand; for I judged the westerly winds were nigh spent. 

ITS INHABITANTS. 

On the 8th of March we saw some smokes on the main, being distant from it4 or 5 leagues. It is very high, woody land, with some spots of savannah. About 10 in the morning 6 or 7 canoes came off to us: most of them had nomore than one man in them; they were all black, with short curled hair;having the same ornaments in their noses, and their heads so shaved andpainted, and speaking the same words, as the inhabitants of Cave's Islandbefore mentioned. 

THE COAST DESCRIBED. 

There was a headland to the southward of us beyond which, seeing no land, I supposed that from thence the land trends away more westerly. Thisheadland lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 2 minutes south, and meridiandistance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. In the night we lay by for fear ofover-shooting this headland. Between which and Cape St. Maries the landis high, mountainous and woody; having many points of land shooting outinto the sea, which make so many fine bays. The coast liesnorth-north-east and south-south-west. 

The 9th in the morning a huge black man came off to us in a canoe butwould not come aboard. He made the same signs of friendship to us as therest we had met with; yet seemed to differ in his language, not using anyof those words which the others did. We saw neither smokes norplantations near this headland. We found here variation 1 degree east. 

CAPE AND BAY ST. GEORGE. 

In the afternoon, as we plied near the shore, 3 canoes came off to us;one had 4 men in her, the others 2 apiece. That with the 4 men camepretty nigh us, and showed us a coconut and water in a bamboo, makingsigns that there was enough ashore where they lived; they pointed to theplace where they would have us go, and so went away. We saw a small roundpretty high island, about a league to the north of this headland, withinwhich there was a large deep bay, whither the canoes went; and we stroveto get thither before night, but could not; wherefore we stood off, andsaw land to the westward of this headland, bearing west by south halfsouth, distance about 10 leagues; and, as we thought, still more landbearing south-west by south, distance 12 or 14 leagues: but, beingclouded, it disappeared and we thought we had been deceived. Before nightwe opened the headland fair and I named it Cape St. George. The land fromhence trends away west-north-west about 10 leagues, which is as far as wecould see it; and the land that we saw to the westward of it in theevening, which bore west by south half south, was another point about 10leagues from Cape St. George; between which there runs in a deep bay for20 leagues or more. We saw some high land in spots like islands down inthat bay at a great distance; but whether they are islands or the mainclosing there we know not. The next morning we saw other land to thesouth-east of the westermost point, which till then was clouded; it wasvery high land, and the same that we saw the day before, that disappearedin a cloud. This Cape St. George lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 5minutes south; and meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. Theisland off this cape I called St. George's Isle; and the bay between itand the west point I named St. George's Bay. Note: no Dutch charts go sofar as this cape, by 10 leagues. On the 10th in the evening we got withina league of the westermost land seen, which is pretty high and verywoody, but no appearance of anchoring. I stood off again, designing (ifpossible) to ply to and fro in this bay till I found a conveniency towood and water. We saw no more plantations, nor coconut-trees; yet in thenight we discerned a small fire right against us. The next morning we sawa burning mountain in the country. It was round, high, and peaked at top(as most volcanoes are) and sent forth a great quantity of smoke. We tookup a log of driftwood and split it for firing; in which we found somesmall fish. 

CAPE ORFORD. 

The day after we passed by the south-west cape of this bay, leaving it tothe north of us: when we were abreast of it I called my officerstogether, and named it Cape Orford, in honour of my noble patron;drinking his lordship's health. This cape bears from Cape St. Georgesouth-west about 18 leagues. Between them there is a bay about 25 leaguesdeep, having pretty high land all round it, especially near the capes, though they themselves are not high. Cape Orford lies in the latitude of5 degrees 24 minutes south by my observation; and meridian distance fromCape St. George 44 miles west. The land trends from this cape north-westby west into the bay, and on the other side south-west per compass, whichis south-west 9 degrees west, allowing the variation which is here 9degrees east. The land on each side of the cape is more savannah thanwoodland, and is highest on the north-west side. The cape itself is abluff point of an indifferent height with a flat tableland at top. Whenwe were to the south-west of the cape it appeared to be a low pointshooting out; which you cannot see when abreast of it. This morning westruck a log of driftwood with our turtle-irons, hoisted it in, and splitit for firewood. Afterwards we struck another but could not get it in. There were many fish about it. 

We steered along south-west as the land lies, keeping about 6 leagues offthe shore; and, being desirous to cut wood and fill water if I saw anyconveniency, I lay by in the night, because I would not miss any placeproper for those ends, for fear of wanting such necessaries as we couldnot live without. This coast is high and mountainous, and not so thickwith trees as that on the other side of Cape Orford. 

ANOTHER BAY. THE INHABITANTS THERE. 

On the 14th, seeing a pretty deep bay ahead, and some islands where Ithought we might ride secure, we ran in towards the shore and saw somesmokes. At 10 o'clock we saw a point which shot out pretty well into thesea, with a bay within it which promised fair for water; and we stood inwith a moderate gale. Being got into the bay within the point we saw manycoconut-trees, plantations, and houses. When I came within 4 or 5 mile ofthe shore 6 small boats came off to view us, with about 40 men in themall. Perceiving that they only came to view us and would not come aboard, I made signs and waved to them to go ashore; but they did not or wouldnot understand me; therefore I whistled a shot over their heads out of myfowling-piece, and then they pulled away for the shore as hard as theycould. These were no sooner ashore but we saw 3 boats coming from theislands to leeward of us, and they soon came within call; for we laybecalmed. One of the boats had about 40 men in her, and was a largewell-built boat; the other 2 were but small. Not long after I saw anotherboat coming out of that bay where I intended to go: she likewise was alarge boat, with a high head and stern painted and full of men; this Ithought came off to fight us, as it is probable they all did; therefore Ifired another small shot over the great boat that was nigh us, which madethem leave their babbling and take to their paddles. We still laybecalmed; and therefore they, rowing wide of us, directed their coursetoward the other great boat that was coming off: when they were prettynear each other I caused the gunner to fire a gun between them which hedid very dexterously; it was loaded with round and partridge-shot; thelast dropped in the water somewhat short of them, but the round shot wentbetween both boats and grazed about 100 yards beyond them; this soaffrighted them that they rowed away for the shore as fast as they could, without coming near each other; and the little boats made the best oftheir way after them: and now, having a gentle breeze atsouth-south-east, we bore in to the bay after them. When we came by thepoint I saw a great number of men peeping from under the rocks: I ordereda shot to be fired close by to scare them. The shot grazed between us andthe point; and, mounting again, flew over the point, and grazed a secondtime just by them. We were obliged to sail along close by the bays; and, seeing multitudes setting under the trees, I ordered a third gun to befired among the coconut-trees to scare them; for, my business being towood and water, I thought it necessary to strike some terror into theinhabitants, who were very numerous, and (by what I saw now and hadformerly experienced) treacherous. After this I sent my boat to sound;they had first 40, then 30, and at last 20 fathom water. We followed theboat and came to anchor about a quarter of a mile from the shore in 26fathom water, fine black sand and oaze. We rode right against the mouthof a small river where I hoped to find fresh water. Some of the nativesstanding on a small point at the river's mouth, I sent a small shot overtheir heads to fright them; which it did effectually. 

A LARGE ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR'S ATTEMPTS TO TRADE WITH THEM. 

In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the natives who stood upon thepoint by the river's mouth with a present of coconuts; when the boat wascome near the shore they came running into the water, and put their nutsinto the boat. Then I made a signal for the boat to come aboard, and sentboth it and the yawl into the river to look for fresh water, ordering thepinnace to lie near the river's mouth while the yawl went up to search. In an hour's time they returned aboard with some barrecoes full of freshwater, which they had taken up about half a mile up the river. Afterwhich I sent them again with casks; ordering one of them to fill water, and the other to watch the motion of the natives, lest they should makeany opposition; but they did not, and so the boats returned a littlebefore sunset with a tun and a half of water; and the next day by noonbrought aboard about 6 tun of water. 

I sent ashore commodities to purchase hogs, etc. , being informed that thenatives have plenty of them, as also of yams and other good roots; but mymen returned without getting anything that I sent them for; the nativesbeing unwilling to trade with us: yet they admired our hatchets and axes;but would part with nothing but coconuts; which they used to climb thetrees for; and so soon as they gave them our men they beckoned to them tobe gone; for they were much afraid of us. 

The 18th I sent both boats again for water, and before noon they hadfilled all my casks. In the afternoon I sent them both to cut wood; but, seeing about 40 natives standing on the bay at a small distance from ourmen, I made a signal for them to come aboard again; which they did, andbrought me word that the men which we saw on the bay were passing thatway, but were afraid to come nigh them. At 4 o'clock I sent both theboats again for more wood, and they returned in the evening. Then Icalled my officers to consult whether it were convenient to stay herelonger, and endeavour a better acquaintance with these people or go tosea. My design of tarrying here longer was, if possible, to get somehogs, goats, yams and other roots; as also to get some knowledge of thecountry and its product. My officers unanimously gave their opinions forstaying longer here. So the next day I sent both boats ashore again tofish and to cut more wood. While they were ashore about 30 or 40 men andwomen passed by them; they were a little afraid of our people at first;but upon their making signs of friendship they passed by quietly; the menfinely bedecked with feathers of divers colours about their heads, andlances in their hands; the women had no ornament about them, nor anythingto cover their nakedness but a bunch of small green boughs before andbehind, stuck under a string which came round their waists. They carriedlarge baskets on their heads, full of yams. And this I have observedamongst all the wild natives I have known that they make their womencarry the burdens, while the men walk before without any other load thantheir arms and ornaments. At noon our men came aboard with the wood theyhad cut, and had caught but 6 fishes at 4 or 5 hauls of the seine, thoughwe saw abundance of fish leaping in the bay all the day long. 

In the afternoon I sent the boats ashore for more wood; and some of ourmen went to the natives' houses, and found they were now more shy thanthey used to be; had taken down all the coconuts from the trees anddriven away their hogs. Our people made signs to them to know what wasbecome of their hogs, etc. The natives, pointing to some houses in thebottom of the bay, and imitating the noise of those creatures, seemed tointimate that there were both hogs and goats of several sizes, which theyexpressed by holding their hands abroad at several distances from theground. 

At night our boats came aboard with wood, and the next morning I wentmyself with both boats up the river to the watering-place, carrying withme all such trifles and iron-work as I thought most proper to induce themto a commerce with us; but I found them very shy and roguish. I saw but 2men and a boy: one of the men by some signs was persuaded to come to theboat's side, where I was; to him I gave a knife, a string of beads, and aglass bottle; the fellow called out, "cocos, cocos, " pointing to avillage hard by, and signified to us that he would go for some; but henever returned to us. And thus they had frequently of late served ourmen. I took 8 or 9 men with me and marched to their houses, which I foundvery mean; and their doors made fast with withes. 

I visited 3 of their villages; and, finding all the houses thus abandonedby the inhabitants, who carried with them all their hogs etc. , I broughtout of their houses some small fishing-nets in recompense for thosethings they had received of us. As we were coming away we saw 2 of thenatives; I showed them the things that we carried with us and called tothem "cocos, cocos, " to let them know that I took these things becausethey had not made good what they had promised by their signs, and bytheir calling out "cocos. " While I was thus employed the men in the yawlfilled 2 hogsheads of water and all the barrecoes. About 1 in theafternoon I came aboard and found all my officers and men veryimportunate to go to that bay where the hogs were said to be. I was lothto yield to it, fearing they would deal too roughly with the natives. By2 o'clock in the afternoon many black clouds gathered over the land, which I thought would deter them from their enterprise; but theysolicited me the more to let them go. At last I consented, sending thosecommodities I had ashore with me in the morning, and giving them a strictcharge to deal by fair means, and to act cautiously for their ownsecurity. The bay I sent them to was about 2 miles from the ship. As soonas they were gone I got all things ready that, if I saw occasion, I mightassist them with my great guns. When they came to land the natives ingreat companies stood to resist them; shaking their lances andthreatening them; and some were so daring as to wade into the sea, holding a target in one hand and a lance in the other. Our men held up tothem such commodities as I had sent, and made signs of friendship; but tono purpose; for the natives waved them off. Seeing therefore they couldnot be prevailed upon to a friendly commerce, my men, being resolved tohave some provision among them, fired some muskets to scare them away;which had the desired effect upon all but 2 or 3, who stood still in amenacing posture till the boldest dropped his target and ran away; theysupposed he was shot in the arm: he and some others felt the smart of ourbullets but none were killed; our design being rather to fright than tokill them. Our men landed and found abundance of tame hogs running amongthe houses. They shot down 9, which they brought away, besides many thatran away wounded. They had but little time; for in less than an hourafter they went from the ship it began to rain: wherefore they got whatthey could into the boats; for I had charged them to come away if itrained. By that time the boat was aboard and the hogs taken in it clearedup; and my men desired to make another trip thither before night; thiswas about 5 in the evening; and I consented, giving them order to repairon board before night. In the close of the evening they returnedaccordingly with 8 hogs more, and a little live pig; and by this time theother hogs were jerked and salted. These that came last we only dressedand corned till morning; and then sent both boats ashore for morerefreshments, either of hogs or roots: but in the night the natives hadconveyed away their provisions of all sorts. Many of them were now aboutthe houses, and none offered to resist our boats landing, but on thecontrary were so amicable that one man brought 10 or 12 coconuts, leftthem on the shore after he had showed them to our men, and went out ofsight. Our people finding nothing but nets and images brought some ofthem away; which 2 of my men brought aboard in a small canoe; andpresently after, my boats came off. I ordered the boatswain to take careof the nets, till we came at some place where they might be disposed offor some refreshment for the use of all the company: the images I tookinto my own custody. 

In the afternoon I sent the canoe the place from whence she had beenbrought; and in her, 2 axes, 2 hatchets (one of them helved) 6 knives, 6looking-glasses, a large bunch of beads, and 4 glass bottles. Our mendrew the canoe ashore, placed the things to the best advantage in her;and came off in the pinnace which I sent to guard them. And now, beingwell stocked with wood and all my water-casks full, I resolved to sailthe next morning. All the time of our stay here we had very fair weather;only sometimes in the afternoon we had a shower of rain which lasted notabove an hour at most: also some thunder and lightning with very littlewind. We had sea- and land-breezes; the former between thesouth-south-east, and the latter from north-east to north-west. 

HE NAMES THE PLACE PORT MONTAGUE. THE COUNTRY THEREABOUTS DESCRIBED, ANDITS PRODUCE. 

This place I named port Montague in honour of my noble patron. It lies inthe latitude of 6 degrees 10 minutes south, and meridian distance fromCape St. George 151 miles west. The country hereabouts is mountainous andwoody, full of rich valleys and pleasant fresh-water brooks. The mould inthe valleys is deep and yellowish; that on the sides of the hills of avery brown colour, and not very deep, but rocky underneath; yet excellentplanting land. The trees in general are neither very straight, thick, nortall; yet appear green and pleasant enough: some of them bore flowers, some berries, and others big fruits; but all unknown to any of us. Coconut-trees thrive very well here; as well on the bays by the seaside, as more remote among the plantations. The nuts are of an indifferentsize, the milk and kernel very thick and pleasant. Here is ginger, yams, and other very good roots for the pot, that our men saw and tasted. Whatother fruits or roots the country affords I know not. Here are hogs anddogs; other land-animals we saw none. The fowls we saw and knew werepigeons, parrots, cockadores, and crows like those in England; a sort ofbirds about the bigness of a blackbird, and smaller birds many. The seaand rivers have plenty of fish; we saw abundance, though we caught butfew, and these were cavallies, yellow-tails and whip-rays. 

A BURNING ISLAND DESCRIBED. 

We departed from hence on the 22nd of March, and on the 24th in theevening we saw some high land bearing north-west half west; to the westof which we could see no land, though there appeared something like landbearing west a little southerly; but, not being sure of it, I steeredwest-north-west all night, and kept going on with an easy sail, intendingto coast along the shore at a distance. At 10 o'clock I saw a great firebearing north-west by west, blazing up in a pillar, sometimes very highfor 3 or 4 minutes, then falling quite down for an equal space of time;sometimes hardly visible, till it blazed up again. I had laid me downhaving been indisposed this 3 days: but upon a sight of this my chiefmate called me; I got up and viewed it for about half an hour and knew itto be a burning hill by its intervals: I charged them to look well out, having bright moonlight. In the morning I found that the fire we had seenthe night before was a burning island; and steered for it. We saw manyother islands, one large high island, and another smaller, but prettyhigh. I stood near the volcano and many small low islands with someshoals. 

A NEW PASSAGE FOUND. 

March the 25th 1700 in the evening we came within 3 leagues of thisburning hill, being at the same time 2 leagues from the main. I found agood channel to pass between them, and kept nearer the main than theisland. At 7 in the evening I sounded, and had 52 fathom fine sand andoaze. I stood to the northward to get clear of this strait, having butlittle wind and fair weather. The island all night vomited fire and smokevery amazingly; and at every belch we heard a dreadful noise likethunder, and saw a flame of fire after it, the most terrifying that everI saw. The intervals between its belches were about half a minute, somemore, others less: neither were these pulses or eruptions alike; for somewere but faint convulsions in comparison of the more vigorous; yet eventhe weakest vented a great deal of fire; but the largest made a roaringnoise, and sent up a large flame 20 or 30 yards high; and then might beseen a great stream of fire running down to the foot of the island, evento the shore. From the furrows made by this descending fire we could inthe daytime see great smokes arise, which probably were made by thesulphureous matter thrown out of the funnel at the top which, tumblingdown to the bottom and there lying in a heap, burned till either consumedor extinguished; and as long as it burned and kept its heat so long thesmoke ascended from it; which we perceived to increase or decrease, according to the quantity of matter discharged from the funnel. But thenext night, being shot to the westward of the burning island, and thefunnel of it lying on the south side, we could not discern the fire thereas we did the smoke in the day when we were to the southward of it. Thisvolcano lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 33 minutes south, and meridiandistance from Cape St. George 332 miles west. 

NEW BRITAIN. 

The eastermost part of New Guinea lies 40 miles to the westward of thistract of land, and by hydrographers they are made joining together: buthere I found an opening and passage between, with many islands; thelargest of which lie on the north side of this passage or strait. Thechannel is very good, between the islands and the land to the eastward. The east part of New Guinea is high and mountainous, ending on thenorth-east with a large promontory, which I named King William's Cape inhonour of his present majesty. We saw some smokes on it; and, leaving iton our larboard side, steered away near the east land which ends with tworemarkable capes or heads distant from each other about 6 or 7 leagues. Within each head were two very remarkable mountains, ascending verygradually from the seaside; which afforded a very pleasant and agreeableprospect. The mountains and lower land were pleasantly mixed withwoodland and savannahs. The trees appeared very green and flourishing;and the savannahs seemed to be very smooth and even; no meadow in Englandappears more green in the spring than these. We saw smokes but did notstrive to anchor here; but rather chose to get under one of the islands(where I thought I should find few or no inhabitants) that I might repairmy pinnace, which was so crazy that I could not venture ashore anywherewith her. As we stood over to the islands we looked out very well to thenorth, but could see no land that way; by which I was well assured thatwe were got through, and that this east land does not join to New Guinea;therefore I named it New Britain. The north-west cape I called CapeGloucester, and the south-west point Cape Anne; and the north-westmountain, which is very remarkable, I called Mount Gloucester. 

This island which I called New Britain has about 4 degrees of latitude:the body of it lying in 4 degrees and the northermost part in 2 degrees30 minutes and the southermost in 6 degrees 30 minutes south. It hasabout 5 degrees 18 minutes longitude from east to west. It is generallyhigh, mountainous land, mixed with large valleys; which as well as themountains appeared very fertile; and in most places that we saw the treesare very large, tall and thick. It is also very well inhabited withstrong well-limbed negroes, whom we found very daring and bold at severalplaces. As to the product of it I know no more than what I have said inmy account of Port Montague: but it is very probable this island mayafford as many rich commodities as any in the world; and the natives maybe easily brought to commerce, though I could not pretend to it under mypresent circumstances. 

SIR GEORGE ROOK'S ISLAND. 

Being near the island to the northward of the volcano I sent my boat tosound, thinking to anchor here; but she returned and brought me word thatthey had no ground, till they met with a reef of coral rocks about a milefrom the shore. Then I bore away to the north side of the island where wefound no anchoring neither. We saw several people, and somecoconut-trees, but could not send ashore for want of my pinnace which wasout of order. In the evening I stood off to sea to be at such a distancethat I might not be driven by any current upon the shoals of this islandif it should prove calm. We had but little wind, especially the beginningof the night; but in the morning I found myself so far to the west of theisland that, the wind being at east-south-east, I could not fetch it;wherefore I kept on to the southward and stemmed with the body of a highisland about 11 or 12 leagues long, lying to the southward of that whichI before designed for. I named this island Sir George Rook's Island. 

LONG ISLAND AND CROWN ISLAND, DISCOVERED AND DESCRIBED. 

We also saw some other islands to the westward; which may be better seenin my chart of these lands than here described. But, seeing a very smallisland lying to the north-west of the long island which was before us, and not far from it, I steered away for that; hoping to find anchoringthere: and, having but little wind, I sent my boat before to sound;which, when we were about 2 miles distance from the shore, came on boardand brought me word that there was good anchoring in 30 or 40 fathomwater, a mile from the isle and within a reef of the rocks which lay in ahalf-moon, reaching from the north part of the island to the south-east:so at noon we got in and anchored in 36 fathom a mile from the isle. 

In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the island to see whatconvenience there was to haul our vessel ashore in order to be mended, and whether we could catch any fish. My men in the boat rowed about theisland, but could not land by reason of the rocks and a great surgerunning in upon the shore. We found variation here 8 degrees 25 minuteswest. 

I designed to have stayed among these islands till I had got my pinnacerefitted; but, having no more than one man who had skill to work uponher, I saw she would be a long time in repairing (which was one greatreason why I could not prosecute my discoveries further) and, theeasterly winds being set in, I found I should scarce be able to hold myground. 

The 31st in the forenoon we shot in between 2 islands lying about 4leagues asunder; with intention to pass between them. The southermost isa long island with a high hill at each end; this I named Long island. Thenorthermost is a round high island towering up with several heads ortops, something resembling a crown; this I named Crown Isle from itsform. Both these islands appeared very pleasant, having spots of greensavannahs mixed among the woodland: the trees appeared very green andflourishing, and some of them looked white and full of blossoms. Wepassed close by Crown Isle; saw many coconut-trees on the bays and thesides of the hills; and one boat was coming off from the shore butreturned again. We saw no smokes on either of the islands, neither did wesee any plantations; and it is probable they are not very well peopled. We saw many shoals near Crown Island, and reefs of rocks running off fromthe points a mile or more into the sea. My boat was once overboard withdesign to have sent her ashore; but, having little wind and seeing someshoals, I hoisted her in again and stood off out of danger. 

SIR R. RICH'S ISLAND. 

In the afternoon, seeing an island bearing north-west by west, we steeredaway north-west by north, to be to the northward of it. The next morning, being about midway from the islands we left yesterday, and having this tothe westward of us; the land of the main of New Guinea within us to thesouthward appeared very high. When we came within 4 or 5 leagues of thisisland to the west of us, 4 boats came off to view us: one came withincall, but returned with the other 3 without speaking to us: so we kepton for the island which I named Sir R. Rich's Island. It was pretty high, woody, and mixed with savannahs like those formerly mentioned. Being tothe north of it we saw an opening between it and another island 2 leaguesto the west of it, which before appeared all in one. The main seemed tobe high land, trending to the westward. 

A BURNING ISLAND. 

On Tuesday the 2nd of April about 8 in the morning we discovered a highpeaked island to the westward which seemed to smoke at its top. The nextday we passed by the north side of the burning island and saw a smokeagain at its top; but, the vent lying on the south side of the peak, wecould not observe it distinctly, nor see the fire. We afterwards opened 3more islands and some land to the southward, which we could not well tellwhether it were islands or part of the main. These islands are all high, full of fair trees and spots of green savannahs; as well the burning isleas the rest; but the burning isle was more round and peaked at top, veryfine land near the sea, and for two-thirds up it. We also saw anotherisle sending forth a great smoke at once; but it soon vanished, and wesaw it no more. We saw also among these islands 3 small vessels withsails, which the people on New Britain seem wholly ignorant of. 

A STRANGE SPOUT. 

The 11th at noon, having a very good observation, I found myself to thenorthward of my reckoning; and thence concluded that we had a currentsetting north-west, or rather more westerly, as the land lies. From thattime to the next morning we had fair clear weather and a fine moderategale from south-east to east by north: but at daybreak the clouds beganto fly, and it lightned very much in the east, south-east and north-east. At sun-rising the sky looked very red in the east near the horizon; andthere were many black clouds both to the south and north of it. About aquarter of an hour after the sun was up there was a squall to thewindward of us; when on a sudden one of our men on the forecastle calledout that he saw something astern, but could not tell what: I looked outfor it and immediately saw a spout beginning to work within a quarter ofa mile of us, exactly in the wind. We presently put right before it. Itcame very swiftly, whirling the water up in a pillar about 6 or 7 yardshigh. As yet I could not see any pendulous cloud from whence it mightcome; and was in hopes it would soon lose its force. In 4 or 5 minutestime it came within a cable's length of us and passed away to leeward;and then I saw a long pale stream coming down to the whirling water. Thisstream was about the bigness of a rainbow: the upper end seemed vastlyhigh, not descending from any dark cloud and therefore the most strangeto me; I never having seen the like before. It passed about a mile toleeward of us and then broke. This was but a small spout, not strong norlasting; yet I perceived much wind in it as it passed by us. The currentstill continued at north-west a little westerly, which I allowed to run amile per hour. 

A CONJECTURE CONCERNING A NEW PASSAGE SOUTHWARD. 

By an observation the 13th at noon I found myself 25 minutes to thenorthward of my reckoning; whether occasioned by bad steerage, a badaccount, or a current, I could not determine; but was apt to judge itmight be a complication of all; for I could not think it was wholly thecurrent, the land here lying east by south, and west by north, or alittle more northerly and southerly. We had kept so nigh as to see it, and at farthest had not been above 20 leagues from it, but sometimes muchnearer; and it is not probable that any current should set directly offfrom a land. A tide indeed may; but then the flood has the same force tostrike in upon the shore as the ebb to strike off from it: but a currentmust have set nearly alongshore either easterly or westerly; and ifanything northerly or southerly, it could be but very little incomparison of its east or west course, on a coast lying as this doth;which yet we did not perceive. If therefore we were deceived by a currentit is very probable that the land is here disjoined, and that there is apassage through to the southward, and that the land from King William'sCape to this place is an island, separated from New Guinea by some straitas New Britain is by that which we came through. But this being at bestbut a probable conjecture I shall insist no farther upon it. 

KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND. 

The 14th we passed by Schouten's Island and Providence Island, and foundstill a very strong current setting to the north-west. On the 17th the wesaw a high mountain on the main that sent forth great quantities of smokefrom its top: this volcano we did not see in our voyage out. In theafternoon we discovered King William's Island, and crowded all the sailwe could to get near it before night; thinking to lie to the eastward ofit till day, for fear of some shoals that lie at the west end of it. Before night we got within 2 leagues of it and, having a fine gale ofwind and a light moon, I resolved to pass through in the night; which Ihoped to do before 12 o'clock if the gale continued; but when we camewithin 2 miles of it it fell calm; yet afterwards, by the help of thecurrent, a small gale, and our boat, we got through before day. In thenight we had a very fragrant smell from the island. 

STRANGE WHIRLPOOLS. 

By morning-light we were got 2 leagues to the westward of it; and thenwere becalmed all the morning; and met such whirling tides that when wecame into them the ship turned quite round; and though sometimes we had asmall gale of wind yet she could not feel the helm when she came intothese whirlpools: neither could we get from amongst them till a briskgale sprang up; yet we drove not much any way, but whirled round like atop. And those whirlpools were not constant to one place, but drove aboutstrangely; and sometimes we saw among them large ripplings of the water, like great overfalls, making a fearful noise. I sent my boat to sound butfound no ground. 

DISTANCE BETWEEN CAPE MABO AND CAPE ST. GEORGE COMPUTED. 

The 18th Cape Mabo bore south distance 9 leagues. By which account itlies in the latitude of 50 minutes south and meridian distance from CapeSt. George 1243 miles. St. John's Isle lies 48 miles to the east of CapeSt. George; which, being added to the distance between Cape St. Georgeand Cape Mabo, makes 1291 meridional parts; which was the furthest that Iwas to the east. In my outward-bound voyage I made meridian distancebetween Cape Mabo and Cape St. George 1290 miles; and now in my returnbut 1243; which is 47 short of my distance going out. This difference mayprobably be occasioned by the strong western current which we found inour return, which I allowed for after I perceived it; and though we didnot discern any current when we went to the eastward, except when nearthe islands, yet it is probable we had one against us, though we did nottake notice of it because of the strong westerly winds. King William'sIsland lies in the latitude of 21 minutes south, and may be seendistinctly off of Cape Mabo. 

In the evening we passed by Cape Mabo; and afterwards steered awaysouth-east half east, keeping along the shore which here trendssouth-easterly. The next morning, seeing a large opening in the land withan island near the south side, I stood in, thinking to anchor there. Whenwe were shot in within 2 leagues of the island the wind came to the west, which blows right into the opening. I stood to the north shore;intending, when I came pretty nigh, to send my boat into the opening, andsound before I would adventure in. We found several deep bays, but nosoundings within 2 miles of the shore; therefore I stood off again. Then, seeing a rippling under our lee, I sent my boat to sound on it; whichreturned in half an hour and brought me word that the rippling we saw wasonly a tide, and that they had no ground there. 

CHAPTER 5. 

NAVIGATION AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

THE AUTHOR'S RETURN FROM THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 

The wind seeming to incline to east, as might be expected according tothe season of the year, I rather chose to shape my course as these windswould best permit than strive to return the same way we came; which, formany leagues, must have been against this monsoon: though indeed, on theother hand, the dangers in that way we already knew; but what might be inthis by which we now proposed to return we could not tell. 

A DEEP CHANNEL. 

We were now in a channel about 8 on 9 leagues wide, having a range ofislands on the north side, and another on the south side, and very deepwater between, so that we had no ground. The 22nd of April in the morningI sent my boat ashore to an island on the north side, and stood that waywith the ship. They found no ground till within a cable's length of theshore, and then had coral rocks; so that they could not catch any fish, though they saw a great many. They brought aboard a small canoe, whichthey found adrift. They met with no game ashore save only oneparty-coloured parakeet. The land is of an indifferent height; veryrocky, yet clothed with tall trees, whose bare roots run along upon therocks. Our people saw a pond of salt-water but found no fresh. Near thisisland we met a pretty strong tide but found neither tide nor current offat some distance. 

On the 24th, being about 2 leagues from an island to the southward of us, we came over a shoal on which we had but 5 fathom and a half. We did notdescry it till we saw the ground under us. In less than half an hourbefore the boat had been sounding in discoloured water, but had noground. We manned the boat presently and towed the ship about; and thensounding had 12, 15, and 17 fathom, and then no ground with ourhand-lead. The shoal was rocky; but in 12 and 15 fathom we had oazyground. 

STRANGE TIDES. 

We found here very strange tides that ran in streams, making a great sea;and roaring so loud that we could hear them before they came within amile of us. The sea round about them seemed all broken, and tossed theship so that she would not answer her helm. These ripplings commonlylasted 10 or 12 minutes, and then the sea became as still and smooth as amill-pond. We sounded often when in the midst of them, and afterwards inthe smooth water; but found no ground, neither could we perceive thatthey drove us any way. 

We had in one night several of these tides that came most of them fromthe west; and, the wind being from that quarter, we commonly heard them along time before they came; and sometimes lowered our topsails, thinkingit was a gust of wind. They were of great length from north to south, buttheir breadth not exceeding 200 yards, and they drove a great pace: forthough we had little wind to move us, yet these would soon pass away andleave the water very smooth, and just before we encountered them we met agreat swell but it did not break. 

THE ISLAND CERAM DESCRIBED. 

The 26th we saw the island Ceram; and still met some ripplings, but muchfainter than those we had the 2 preceding days. We sailed along theisland Ceram to the westward, edging in withal, to see if peradventure wemight find a harbour to anchor in where we might water, trim the ship, and refresh our men. 

In the morning we saw a sail to the north of us, steering in for the westend of Ceram, as we likewise were. In the evening, being near the shoreon the north side of the island, I stood off to sea with an easy sail;intending to stand in for the shore in the morning, and try to findanchoring to fill water, and get a little fish for refreshment. Accordingly in the morning early I stood in with the north-west point ofCeram; leaving a small island, called Bonao, to the west. The sail we sawthe day before was now come pretty nigh us, steering in also (as we did)between Ceram and Bonao. I shortened sail a little for him; and when hegot abreast of us not above 2 miles off I sent my boat aboard. It was aDutch sloop, come from Ternate, and bound for Amboina: my men whom I sentin the boat bought 5 bags of new rice, each containing about 130 pounds, for 6 Spanish dollars. The sloop had many rare parrots aboard for salewhich did not want price. A Malayan merchant aboard told our men thatabout 6 months ago he was at Bencola, and at that time the governoreither died or was killed, and that the commander of an English ship thenin that road succeeded to that government. 

In the afternoon, having a breeze at north and north-north-east, I sentmy boat to sound and, standing after her with the ship, anchored in 30fathom water oazy sand, half a mile from the shore, right against a smallriver of fresh water. The next morning I sent both the boats ashore tofish; they returned about 10 o'clock with a few mullets and 3 or 4cavallies, and some pan-fish. We found variation here 2 degrees 15minutes east. 

When the sea was smooth by the land-winds we sent our boats ashore forwater; who, in a few turns, filled all our casks. 

The land here is low, swampy and woody; the mould is a dark grey, friableearth. Two rivers came out within a bow-shot of each other, just oppositeto the place where we rode: one comes right down out of the country; andthe other from the south, running along by the shore, not musket-shotfrom the seaside. The northernmost river is biggest, and out of it wefilled our water; our boats went in and out at any time of tide. In someplaces the land is overflown with fresh water, at full sea. The landhereabouts is full of trees unknown to us, but none of them very large orhigh; the woods yield many wild fruits and berries, such as I never sawelsewhere. We met with no land animals. 

STRANGE FOWLS. 

The fowls we found were pigeons, parrots, cockadores, and a great numberof small birds unknown to me. One of the master's mates killed 2 fowls asbig as crows; of a black colour, excepting that the tails were all white. Their necks were pretty long, one of which was of a saffron-colour, theother black. They had very large bills much like a ram's horn; their legswere strong and short, and their claws like a pigeon's; their wings of anordinary length: yet they make a great noise when they fly, which they dovery heavily. They feed on berries, and perch on the highest trees. Theirflesh is sweet; I saw some of the same species at New Guinea, but nowhereelse. 

THE ISLANDS BONAO, BOURO, MISACOMBI, PENTARE, LAUBANA, AND POTORO. 

May the 3rd at 6 in the morning we weighed, intending to pass betweenBonao and Ceram; but presently after we got under sail we saw a prettylarge proa coming about the north-west point of Ceram. Wherefore I stoodto the north to speak with her, putting aboard our ensign. She, seeing uscoming that way, went into a small creek and skulked behind a point awhile: at last discovering her again I sent my boat to speak with her;but the proa rowed away and would not come nigh it. After this, finding Icould not pass between Bonao and Ceram as I purposed, I steered away tothe north of it. 

This Bonao is a small island lying about 4 leagues from the north-westpoint of Ceram. I was informed by the Dutch sloop before mentioned that, notwithstanding its smallness, it has one fine river, and that the Dutchare there settled. Whether there be any natives on it or not I know not, nor what its produce is. They further said that the Ceramers were theirmortal enemies; yet that they were settled on the westermost point ofCeram in spite of the natives. 

The next day as we approached the island Bouro there came off from it avery fragrant scent, much like that from King William's Island; and wefound so strong a current setting to the westward that we could scarcestem it. We plied to get to the southward, intending to pass betweenBouro and Keelang. 

In the evening, being near the west end of Bouro, we saw a brigantine tothe north-west of us, on the north side of Bouro, standing to theeastward. I would not stand east or west for fear of coming nigh the landwhich was on each side of us, namely Bouro on the west, and Keelang onthe east. The next morning we found ourselves in mid-channel between bothislands; and having the wind at south-west we steered south-south-east, which is right through between both. At 11 o'clock it fell calm; and socontinued till noon; by that time the brigantine which we saw astern thenight before was got 2 or 3 leagues ahead of us. It is probable she met astrong land-wind in the evening which continued all night; she keepingnearer the shore than I could safely do. She might likewise have a tideor current setting easterly, where she was; though we had a tide settingnorthwardly against us, we being in mid-channel. 

About 8 at night the brigantine which we saw in the day came close alongby us on our weather-side: our guns were all ready before night, matcheslighted, and small arms on the quarter-deck ready loaded. She standingone way and we another; we soon got further asunder. But I kept goodwatch all the night and in the morning saw her astern of us, standing aswe did. At 10 o'clock, having little wind, I sent the yawl aboard of her. She was a Chinese vessel laden with rice, arrack, tea, porcelain, andother commodities, bound for Amboina. The commander said that his boatwas gone ashore for water, and asked our men if they saw her; for she hadbeen wanting for 2 or 3 days, and they knew not what was become of her. They had their wives and children aboard, and probably came to settle atsome new Dutch factory. The commander also informed us that the Dutch hadlately settled at Ampoulo, Menippe, Bonao, and on a point of Ceram. Thenext day we passed out to the southward between Keelang and Bouro. Afterthis we had for several days a current setting southerly, and a greattumbling sea, occasioned more by the strong current than by winds, as wasapparent by the jumping of its waves against each other; and byobservation I found 25 miles more southing than our course gave us. 

On the 14th we discovered the island Misacomba, and the next day sailedalong to the west on the north side of the island. In some charts it iscalled Omba; it is a mountainous island, spotted with woods andsavannahs; about 20 leagues long and 5 or 6 broad. We saw no signs ofinhabitants on it. We fell in nearest to the west end of it; andtherefore I chose to pass on to the westward, intending to get through tothe southward between this and the next isle to the west of it, orbetween any other 2 islands to the west, where I should meet with theclearest passage; because the winds were now at north-east andeast-north-east, and the isle lies nearly east and west; so that if thewinds continued I might be a long time in getting to the east end of it, which yet I knew to be the best passage. In the night, being at the westend and seeing no clear passage, I stood off with an easy sail, and inthe morning had a fine land-wind, which would have carried us 5 or 6leagues to the east if we had made the best of it; but we kept on onlywith a gentle gale for fear of a westerly current. In the morning, finding we had not met with any current as we expected, as soon as it waslight we made sail to the westward again. 

After noon, being near the end of the isle Pentare which lies west fromMisacomba, we saw many houses and plantations in the country, and manycoconut-trees growing by the seaside. We also saw several boats sailingacross a bay or channel at the west end of Misacomba, between it andPentare. We had but little wind, and that at north, which blows right inwith a swell rolling in withal; wherefore I was afraid to venture in, though probably there might be good anchoring and a commerce with thenatives. I continued steering to the west, because, the night before atsun-setting, I saw a small round high island to the west of Pentare, where I expected a good passage. 

THE PASSAGE BETWEEN PENTARE AND LAUBANA. 

We could not that day reach the west end of Pentare, but saw a deep bayto the west of us, where I thought might be a passage through, betweenPentare and Laubana. But as yet the lands were shut one within another, that we could not see any passage. Therefore I ordered to sail 7 leaguesmore westerly, and lie by till next day. In the morning we looked out foran opening but could see none; yet by the distance and bearing of a highround island called Potoro, we were got to the west of the opening, butnot far from it. Wherefore I tacked and stood to the east, and therather, because I had reason to suppose this to be the passage we camethrough in the Cygnet mentioned in my Voyage round the World; but I wasnot yet sure of it because we had rainy weather, so that we could not nowsee the land so well as we did then. We then accidentally saw the openingat our first falling in with the islands; which now was a work of sometime and difficul to discover. However before 10 o'clock we saw theopening plain; and I was the more confirmed in my knowledge of thispassage by a spit of sand and 2 islands at the north-east part of itsentrance. The wind was at south-south-west and we plied to get throughbefore night; for we found a good tide helping us to the south. About 7or 8 leagues to the west of us we saw a high round peaked mountain, fromwhose top a smoke seemed to ascend as from a volcano. There were 3 othervery high peaked mountains, 2 on the east and one on the west of thatwhich smoked. 

In our plying to get through between Pentare and Laubana we had (as Isaid) a good tide or current setting us to the southward. And it is to beobserved that near the shores in these parts we commonly find a tidesetting northwardly or southwardly as the land lies; but the northwardlytide sets not above 3 hours in 12, having little strength; and sometimesit only checks the contrary current which runs with great violence, especially in narrow passes such as this between 2 islands. It was 12 atnight before we got clear of 2 other small islands that lay on the southside of the passage; and there we had a very violent tide setting usthrough against a brisk gale of wind. Notwithstanding which I kept thepinnace out, for fear we should be becalmed. For this is the same placethrough which I passed in the year 1687, mentioned in my Voyage round theWorld, only then we came out between the western small island andLaubana, and now we came through between the two small islands. Wesounded frequently but had no ground. I said there that we came throughbetween Omba and Pentare: for we did not then see the opening betweenthose 2 islands; which made me take the west side of Pentare for the westend of Omba, and Laubana for Pentare. But now we saw the opening betweenOmba and Pentare; which was so narrow that I would not venture through:besides I had now discovered my mistake, and hoped to meet with the otherpassage again, as indeed we did, and found it to be bold from side toside, which in the former voyage I did not know. 

THE ISLAND TIMOR. 

After we were through we made the best of our way to Timor, and on Maythe 18th in the morning we saw it plain, and made the high land overLaphao the Portuguese factory, as also the high peak over our firstwatering-place, and a small round island about midway between them. 

We coasted along the island Timor, intending to touch at Babao, to get alittle water and refreshments. I would not go into the bay where we firstwatered, because of the currents which there whirl about very strangely, especially at spring tides which were now setting in; besides, thesouth-east winds come down in flaws from the mountains, so that it wouldhave been very dangerous for us. 

BABAO BAY. 

Wherefore we crowded all the sail we could to get to Babao before night, or at least to get sight of the sandy island at the entrance of the bay;but could not. So we plied all night; and the next morning entered thebay. 

There being good ground all over this bay we anchored at 2 o'clock in 30fathom water, soft oazy ground. And the morning after I sent my boatashore with the seine to fish. At noon she returned and brought enoughfor all the ship's company. They saw an Indian boat at a round rockyisland about a mile from them. 

On the 22nd I sent my boat ashore again to fish: at noon she returnedwith a few fish, which served me and my officers. They caught onewhiting, the first I had seen in these seas. Our people went over to therocky island and there found several jars of turtle, and some hanging upa-drying, and some cloths; their boat was about a mile off, strikingturtle. Our men left all as they found. In the afternoon a very largeshark came under our stern; I never had seen any near so big before. Iput a piece of meat on a hook for him but he went astern and returned nomore. About midnight, the wind being pretty moderate, I weighed and stoodinto the bottom of the bay, and ran over nearer the south shore, where Ithought to lie and water, and at convenient times get fish for ourrefreshment. The next morning I sent my pinnace with 2 hogsheads and 10barrecoes for water; they returned at noon with the casks full of water;very thick and muddy, but sweet and good. We found variation 15 minuteswest. 

THE ISLAND ROTI. 

This afternoon, finding that the breezes were set in here, and that itblew so hard that I could neither fish nor fill water without muchdifficulty and hazard of the boat; I resolved to be gone, having goodquantity of water aboard. Accordingly at half an hour after 2 in themorning we weighed with the wind at east by south, and stood to sea. Wecoasted along by the island Roti which is high land, spotted with woodsand savannahs. The trees appeared small and shrubby, and the savannahsdry and rusty. All the north side has sandy bays by the sea. We saw nohouses nor plantations. 

MORE ISLANDS THAN ARE COMMONLY LAID DOWN IN THE CHARTS. GREAT CURRENTS. 

The next day we crowded all the sail we could to get to the west of allthe isles before night but could not; for at 6 in the evening we saw landbearing south-west by west. For here are more islands than are laid downin any charts that I have seen. Wherefore I was obliged to make a morewesterly course than I intended till I judged we might be clear of theland. And when we were so I could easily perceive by the ship's motion. For till then, being under the lee of the shore, we had smooth water; butnow we had a troubled sea which made us dance lustily. This turbulent seawas occasioned in part by the current; which, setting out slantingagainst the wind, was by it raised into short cockling seas. I did indeedexpect a south-west current here but not so very strong as we found it. 

On the 26th we continued to have a very strong current settingsouthwardly; but on what point exactly I know not. Our whole distance bylog was but 82 miles, and our difference of latitude since yesterday noonby observation 100 miles, which is 18 miles more than the whole distance;and our course, allowing no leeway at all, was south 17 degrees west, which gives but 76 miles difference of latitude, 24 less than we found byobservation. I did expect (as has been said) we might meet a greatcurrent setting to the south yesterday, because there is a constantcurrent setting out from among those islands we passed through betweenTimor and the isles to the west of it, and it is probable, in all theother openings between the islands, even from the east end of Java to theend of all that range that runs from thence, both to the east and west ofTimor; but, being got so far out to sea as we were, though there may be avery great current, yet it does not seem probable to me that it should beof so great strength as we now found: for both currents and tides losetheir force in the open sea where they have room to spread; and it isonly in narrow places or near headlands that their force is chiefly felt. Besides, in my opinion, it should here rather set to the west than south;being open to the narrow sea that divides New Holland from the range ofislands before mentioned. 

The 27th we found that in the last 24 hours we had gone 9 miles lesssouth than the log gave: so that it is probable we were then out of thesouthern current which we felt so much before. We saw many tropic-birdsabout us. And found variation 1 degree 25 minutes west. 

WHALES. 

On June the 1st we saw several whales, the first we had at this time seenon the coast: but when we were here before we saw many; at which time wewere nearer the shore than now. The variation now was 5 degrees 38minutes west. 

COAST OF NEW HOLLAND. 

I designed to have made New Holland in about the latitude of 20 degrees, and steered courses by day to make it, but in the night could not be sobold; especially since we had sounding. This afternoon I steered insouth-west till 6 o'clock; then, it blowing fresh and night coming on, Isteered west-south-west till we had 40 fathom; and then stood west, whichcourse carries alongshore. In the morning again from 6 to 12 I steeredwest-south-west to have made the land but, not seeing it, I judged wewere to the west of it. Here is very good soundings on this coast. Whenwe passed this way to the eastward we had, near this latitude of 19degrees 50 minutes 38 fathom, about 18 leagues from the land: but thistime we saw not the land. The next morning I saw a great manyscuttle-fish bones which was a sign that we were not far from the land. Also a great many weeds continually floating by us. 

We found the variation increase considerably as we went westward. For onthe 3rd it was 6 degrees 10 minutes west; on the 4th, 6 degrees 20minutes, and on the 6th, 7 degrees 20 minutes. That evening we saw somefowls like men-of-war-birds flying north-east, as I was told; for I didnot see them, having been indisposed these 3 or 4 days. 

THE TRYAL ROCKS. 

On the 11th we found the variation 8 degrees 1 minute west; on the 12th, 6 degrees 0 minutes. I kept on my course to the westward till the 15th, and then altered it. My design was to seek for the Tryal Rocks; but, having been sick 5 or 6 days without any fresh provision or other goodnourishment aboard, and seeing no likelihood of my recovery, I ratherchose to go to some port in time than to beat here any longer; my peoplebeing very negligent when I was not upon deck myself; I found the windsvariable, so that I might go any way, east, west, north, or south;wherefore it is probable I might have found the said rocks had notsickness prevented me; which discovery (whenever made) will be of greatuse to merchants trading to these parts. 

THE COAST OF JAVA. PRINCES ISLE. STRAITS OF SUNDA. THWART-THE-WAY ISLAND. 

From hence nothing material happened till we came upon the coast of Java. On the 23rd we saw Princes Isle plain, and the mouth of the Straits ofSunda. By my computation the distance between Timor and Princes Isle is14 degrees 22 minutes. The next day in the afternoon, being abreast ofCrockadore Island, I steered away east-north-east for an island that liesnear midway between Sumatra and Java but nearest the Java shore; which isby Englishmen called Thwart-the-way. We had but small winds till about 3o'clock when it freshened, and I was in good hopes to pass through beforeday: but at 9 o'clock the wind fell and we got but little. I was thenabreast of Thwart-the-way, which is a pretty high long island; but before11 the wind turned, and presently afterward it fell calm. I was thenabout 2 leagues from the said island; and, having a strong currentagainst us, before day we were driven astern 4 or 5 leagues. In themorning we had the wind at north-north-west; it looked black and the windunsettled: so that I could not expect to get through. I therefore stoodtoward the Java shore, and at 10 anchored in 24 fathom water, black oazyground, 3 leagues from the shore. I sounded in the night when it wascalm, and had 54 fathom, coarse sand and coral. 

INDIAN PROAS, AND THEIR TRAFFIC. 

In the afternoon before we had seen many proas; but none came off to us;and in the night we saw many fires ashore. This day a large proa cameaboard of us, and lay by our side an hour. There were only 4 men in her, all Javians, who spoke the Malayan language. They asked if we wereEnglish; I answered we were; and presently one of them came aboard andpresented me with a small hen, some eggs and coconuts; for which I gavesome beads and a small looking-glass, and some glass bottles. They alsogave me some sugarcane, which I distributed to such of my men as werescorbutic. They told me there were 3 English ships at Batavia. 

The 28th at 2 in the afternoon we anchored in 26 fathom water; presentlyit fell calm and began to rain very violently and so continued from 3till 9 in the evening. At 1 in the morning we weighed with a fineland-wind at south-south-east; but presently, the wind coming about ateast, we anchored; for we commonly found the current setting west. If atany time it turned it was so weak that it did us little good; and I didnot think it safe to venture through without a pretty brisk leading gale;for the passage is but narrow, and I knew not what dangers might be inthe way, nor how the tide sets in the narrow, having not been this waythese 28 years, and all my people wholly strangers: we had the openingfair before us. 

PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT. 

While we lay here 4 Malayan proas came from the shore, laden withcoconuts, plantains, bananas, fowls, ducks, tobacco, sugar, etc. Thesewere very welcome, and we purchased much refreshment of them. At 10o'clock I dismissed all the boats, and weighed with the wind atnorth-west. At half an hour past 6 in the evening we anchored in 32fathom water in a coarse sort of oaze. We were now past the islandThwart-the-way, but had still one of the small islands to pass. The tidebegan to run strong to the west; which obliged me to anchor while I hadsoundings, for fear of being driven back again or on some unknown sand. Ilay still all night. At 5 o'clock the next morning the tide began toslacken: at 6 I weighed with the wind at south-east by east, a handsomebreeze. We just weathered the Button; and, sounding several times, hadstill between 30 and 40 fathom. When we were abreast of the Button, andabout 2 leagues from the westermost point of Java, we had 34 fathom, small peppery sand. You may either come between this island and Java, or, if the wind is northerly, run out between the island Thwart-the-way andthis last small island. 

The wind for the most part being at east and east by south I was obligedto run over towards the Sumatra shore, sounding as I went, and had from34 to 23 fathom. In the evening I sounded pretty quick, being got nearthe Sumatra shore; and, finding a current setting to the west between 8and 9 o'clock, we anchored in 34 fathom. The tide set to the west from 7in the evening to 7 this morning; and then, having a small gale atwest-south-west, I weighed and stood over to the Java shore. 

In the evening, having the wind between east-north-east and south-east byeast, we could not keep off the Java shore. Wherefore I anchored in 27fathom water, about a league and a half off shore. At the same time wesaw a ship at anchor near the shore, about 2 mile to leeward of us. Wefound the tide setting to the westward, and presently after we anchoredit fell calm. We lay still all night and saw many fires ashore. At 5 thenext morning, being July the 1st, we weighed and stood to the north for aseabreeze: at 10, the wind coming out, I tacked and had a fine briskgale. The ship we saw at anchor weighed also and stood after us. While wepassed by Pulo Baby I kept sounding and had no less than 14 fathom. Theother ship, coming after us with all the sail she could make, I shortenedsail on purpose that she might overtake us but she did not. A littleafter 5 I anchored in 13 fathom good oazy ground. About 7 in the eveningthe ship that followed us passed by close under our stern; she was aDutch fly-boat; they told us they came directly from Holland, and hadbeen in their passage six months. It was now dark, and the Dutch shipanchored within a mile of us. I ordered to look out sharp in the morning;that so soon as the Dutchman began to move we might be ready to followhim; for I intended to make him my pilot. In the morning at half an hourafter 5 we weighed, the Dutchman being under sail before; and we stooddirectly after him. At 8, having but little wind, I sent my boat aboardof him to see what news he had brought from Europe. Soon after we spied aship coming from the east, plying on a wind to speak with us, and showingEnglish colours. I made a signal for my boat, and presently bore awaytowards her; and, being pretty nigh, the commander and supercargo cameaboard, supposing we had been the Tuscany galley which was expected thenat Batavia. This was a country ship belonging to Fort St. George, havingcome out from Batavia the day before, and bound to Bencola. The commandertold me that the Fleet frigate was at anchor in Batavia Road, but wouldnot stay there long: he told me also that His Majesty's ships commandedby Captain Warren were still in India, but he had been a great while fromthe coast and had not seen them. He gave me a chart of these straits fromthe Button and Cap to Batavia, and showed me the best way in thither. At11 o'clock, it being calm, I anchored in 14 fathom good oazy ground. 

ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA. 

At 2 o'clock we weighed again; the Dutch ship being under sail before, standing close to Mansheters Island; but, finding he could not weatherit, he tacked and stood off a little while, and then tacked again. In themeantime I stood pretty nigh the said island, sounding, but could notweather it. Then I tacked and stood off, and the Dutch stood in towardsthe island; and weathered it. I, being desirous to have room enough, stood off longer and then went about, having the Dutch ship 4 pointsunder my lee. I kept after him; but as I came nearer the island I found atide setting to the west, so that I could not weather it. Wherefore at 6in the evening I anchored in 7 fathom oazy ground, about a mile from theisland: the Dutch ship went about 2 miles further, and anchored also; andwe both lay still all night. At 5 the next morning we weighed again, andthe Dutch ship stood away between the island Cambusses and the main; butI could not follow because we had a land-wind. Wherefore I went withoutthe Cambusses, and by noon we saw the ships that lay at the careeningisland near Batavia. After the land-wind was spent, which we had atsouth-east and south-south-east, the seabreeze came up at east. Then wewent about; and, the wind coming afterward at east-north-east, we had alarge wind to run us into Batavia Road: and at 4 in the afternoon weanchored in 6 fathom soft oaze. 

CHAPTER 6. 

HOME VOYAGE AND LOSS OF SHIP. 

THE AUTHOR CONTINUES IN BATAVIA ROAD TO REFIT, TO GET PROVISIONS. 

We found in Batavia Road a great many ships at anchor, most Dutch, andbut one English ship named the Fleet frigate, commanded by one Merry. Werode a little without them all. Near the shore lay a stout China junk, and a great many small vessels, namely brigantines, sloops and Malayanproas in abundance. As soon as I anchored I sent my boat aboard the Fleetfrigate with orders to make them strike their pennant, which was donesoon after the boat went aboard. Then my clerk, whom I sent in the boat, went for the shore, as I had directed him, to see if the government wouldanswer my salute: but it was now near night, and he had only time tospeak with the ship-bander, who told him that the government would haveanswered my salute with the same number of guns if I had fired as soon asI anchored; but that now it was too late. In the evening my boat cameaboard and the next morning I myself went ashore, visited the Dutchgeneral, and desired the privilege of buying such provision and stores asI now wanted; which he granted me. 

I lay here till the 17th of October following, all which time we had veryfair weather, some tornadoes excepted. In the meantime I supplied thecarpenter with such stores as were necessary for refitting the ship;which proved more leaky after he had caulked her than she was before: sothat I was obliged to careen her, for which purpose I hired vessels totake in our guns, ballast, provision and stores. 

ENGLISH SHIPS THEN IN THE ROAD. 

The English ships that arrived here from England were first the Liampo, commanded by Captain Monk, bound for China; next the Panther commanded byCaptain Robinson; then the Mancel frigate, commanded by Captain Clerk. All these brought good tidings from England. Most of them had beenunfortunate in their officers; especially Captain Robinson, who said thatsome of them had been conspiring to ruin him and his voyage. There camein also several English country vessels; first a sloop from Benjarr, commanded by one Russel, bound to Bengal, next the Monsoon, belonging toBengal: she had been at Malacca at the same time that His Majesty's shipthe Harwich was there: afterwards came in also another small ship fromBengal. 

While we stayed here all the forenamed English ships sailed hence; the 2Bengal ships excepted. Many Dutch ships also came in here, and departedagain before us. We had several reports concerning our men-of-war inIndia, and much talk concerning rovers who had committed several spoilsupon the coast and in the Straits of Malacca. I did not hear of any shipssent out to quash them. At my first coming in I was told that 2 ships hadbeen sent from Amboina in quest of me; which was lately confirmed by oneof the skippers, whom I by accident met with here. He told me they had 3protests against me; that they came to Pulo Sabuda on the coast of NewGuinea 28 days after my departure thence, and went as far as Schouten'sIsland and, hearing no further news of me, returned. Something likewiseto this purpose Mr. Merry, commander of the Fleet frigate, told me at myfirst arrival here; and that the general at Batavia had a copy of mycommission and instructions; but I looked upon it as a very improbablething. 

While we lay here the Dutch held several consultations about sending someships for Europe sooner than ordinary: at last the 16th of October wasagreed upon for the day of sailing, which is 2 months sooner than usual. They lay ready 2 or 3 days before, and went out on the 10th. Their nameswere the Ostresteen, bound to Zealand; the Vanheusen, for Enchiehoust;and the 3 Crowns, for Amsterdam, commanded by skipper Jacob Uncright, whowas commodore over all the rest. I had by this time finished my businesshere, namely fitted the ship, recruited myself with provision, filled allmy water; and, the time of the year to be going for Europe being now athand, I prepared to be gone also. 

DEPARTURE FROM BATAVIA. 

Accordingly on the 17th of October, at half an hour after 6 in themorning, I weighed anchor from Batavia, having a good land-wind at south, and fair weather: and by the 19th at noon came up with the 3 Dutch shipsbefore mentioned. The 29th of November in the morning we saw a small hawkflying about the ship till she was quite tired. Then she rested on themizzen-topsail-yard, where we caught her. It is probable she was blownoff from Madagascar by the violent northerly winds; that being thenighest land to us, though distance near 150 leagues. 

1701. 

TOUCH AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

The 30th December we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope and departed againon the 11th of January, 1701. About the end of the month we saw abundanceof weeds or blubber swim by us, for I cannot determine which. It was allof one shape and colour. As they floated on the water they seemed to beof the breadth of the palm of a man's hand, spread out round into manybranches about the bigness of a man's finger. They had in the middle alittle knob, no bigger than the top of a man's thumb. They were of asmoke-colour; and the branches, by their pliantness in the water, seemedto be more simple than jellies, I have not seen the like before. 

AND AT ST. HELENA. 

The 2nd of February we anchored in St. Helena Road and set sail againfrom thence on the 13th. 

ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION. A LEAK SPRUNG. 

On the 21st we made the island of Ascension and stood in towards it. The22nd between 8 and 9 o'clock we sprung a leak which increased so that thechain-pump could not keep the ship free. Whereupon I set the hand-pump towork also, and by 10 o'clock sucked her: then wore the ship, and stood tothe southward to try if that would ease her; and then the chain-pump justkept her free. At 5 the next morning we made sail and stood in for thebay; and at 9 anchored in 10 and a half fathom, sandy ground. The southpoint bore south-south-west distance 2 miles, and the north point of thebay north-east half north, distance 2 miles. As soon as we anchored Iordered the gunner to clear his powder-room that we might there searchfor the leak and endeavour to stop it within board if possible; for wecould not heel the ship so low, it being within 4 streaks of the keel;neither was there any convenient place to haul her ashore. I ordered theboatswain to assist the gunner; and by 10 o'clock the powder-room wasclear. The carpenter's mate, gunner, and boatswain went down; and soonafter I followed them myself and asked them whether they could come atthe leak: they said they believed they might, but cutting the ceiling; Itold the carpenter's mate (who was the only person in the ship thatunderstood anything of carpenter's work) that if he thought he could comeat the leak by cutting the ceiling without weakening the ship he might doit, for he had stopped one leak so before; which though not so big asthis, yet, having seen them both, I thought he might as well do this asthe other. Wherefore I left him to do his best. The ceiling being cut, they could not come at the leak; for it was against one of thefoot-hook-timbers which the carpenter's mate said he must first cutbefore it could be stopped. I went down again to see it, and found thewater to come in very violently. I told them I never had known any suchthing as cutting timbers to stop leaks; but if they who ought to be bestjudges in such cases thought they could do any good I bid them use theirutmost care and diligence, promising the carpenter's mate that I wouldalways be a friend to him if he could and would stop it: he said by 4o'clock in the afternoon he would make all well, it being then about 11in the forenoon. In the afternoon my men were all employed, pumping withboth pumps; except such as assisted the carpenter's mate. About one inthe afternoon I went down again and the carpenter's mate was cutting theafter-part of the timber over the leak. Some said it was best to cut thetimber away at once; I bid them hold their tongue and let the carpenter'smate alone; for he knew best and I hoped he would do his utmost to stopthe leak. I desired him to get everything ready for stopping the violenceof the water, before he cut any further; for fear it should overpower usat once. I had already ordered the carpenter to bring all the oakum hehad, and the boatswain to bring all the waste cloths to stuff in uponoccasion; and had for the same purpose sent down my own bedclothes. Thecarpenter's mate said he should want short stanchions to be placed sothat the upper end should touch the deck, and the under-part rest on whatwas laid over the leak; and presently took a length for them. I asked themaster-carpenter what he thought best to be done: he replied till theleak was all open, he could not tell. Then he went away to make astanchion, but it was too long: I ordered him to make many of severallengths, that we might not want of any size. So once more desiring thecarpenter's mate to use his utmost endeavours I went up, leaving theboatswain and some others there. About 5 o'clock the boatswain came to meand told me the leak was increased, and that it was impossible to keepthe ship above water; when on the contrary I expected to have had thenews of the leak's being stopped. I presently went down and found thetimber cut away, but nothing in readiness to stop the force of the waterfrom coming in. I asked them why they would cut the timber before theyhad got all things in readiness: the carpenter's mate answered they coulddo nothing till the timber was cut that he might take the dimensions ofthe place; and that there was a caulk which he had lined out, preparingby the carpenter's boy. I ordered them in the meantime to stop in oakum, and some pieces of beef; which accordingly was done, but all to littlepurpose: for now the water gashed in with such violence, notwithstandingall our endeavours to check it, that it flew in over the ceiling; and forwant of passage out of the room overflowed it above 2 foot deep. Iordered the bulkhead be cut open, to give passage to the water that itmight drain out of the room; and withal ordered to clear away abaft thebulkhead, that we might bail: so now we had both pumps going and as manybailing as could; and by this means the water began to decrease; whichgave me some hope of saving the ship. I asked the carpenter's mate whathe thought of it; he said "Fear not; for by 10 o'clock at night I'llengage to stop the leak. " I went from him with a heavy heart; but, putting a good countenance upon the matter, encouraged my men, who pumpedand bailed very briskly; and when I saw occasion I gave them some dramsto comfort them. About 11 o'clock at night the boatswain came to me andtold me that the leak still increased; and that the plank was so rottenit broke away like dirt; and that now it was impossible to save the ship;for they could not come at the leak because the water in the room was gotabove it. The rest of the night we spent in pumping and bailing. I workedmyself to encourage my men, who were very diligent; but the water stillincreased, and we now thought of nothing but saving our lives. WhereforeI hoisted out the boat that, if the ship should sink, yet we might besaved: and in the morning we weighed our anchor and warped in nearer theshore; yet did but little good. 

WHICH BEING IMPOSSIBLE TO BE STOPPED, THE SHIP IS LOST, BUT THE MENSAVED. 

In the afternoon with the help of a seabreeze I ran into 7 fathom andanchored; then carried a small anchor ashore and warped in till I cameinto 3 fathom and a half. Where having fastened her I made a raft tocarry the men's chests and bedding ashore; and before 8 at night most ofthem were ashore. In the morning I ordered the sails to be unbent, tomake tents; and then myself and officers went ashore. I had sent ashore apuncheon and a 36 gallon cask of water with one bag of rice for ourcommon use: but great part of it was stolen away before I came ashore, and many of my books and papers lost. 

THEY FIND WATER UPON THE ISLAND. 

On the 26th following we, to our great comfort, found a spring of freshwater about 8 miles from our tents, beyond a very high mountain which wemust pass over: so that now we were, by God's Providence, in a conditionof subsisting some time; having plenty of very good turtle by our tents, and water for the fetching. The next day I went up to see thewatering-place, accompanied with most of my officers. We lay by the wayall night and next morning early got thither; where we found a very finespring on the south-east side of the high mountain, about half a milefrom its top: but the continual fogs make it so cold here that it is veryunwholesome living by the water. Near this place are abundance of goatsand land-crabs. About 2 mile south-east from the spring we found 3 or 4shrubby trees, upon one of which was cut an anchor and cable, and theyear 1642. About half a furlong from these we found a convenient placefor sheltering men in any weather. Hither many of our men resorted; thehollow rocks affording convenient lodging; the goats, land-crabs, men-of-war-birds and boobies good food; and the air was here exceedingwholesome. 

AND ARE BROUGHT BACK TO ENGLAND. 

About a week after our coming ashore our men that lived at this newhabitation saw two ships making towards the island. Before night theybrought me the news; and I ordered them to turn about a score of turtleto be in readiness for their ships if they should touch here: but beforemorning they were out of sight, and the turtle were released again. Herewe continued without seeing any other ship till the second of April; whenwe saw 11 sail to windward of the island: but they likewise passed by. The day after appeared 4 sail, which came to anchor in this bay. Theywere His Majesty's ships the Anglesey, Hastings and Lizard; and theCanterbury East India ship. I went on board the Anglesey with about 35 ofmy men; and the rest were disposed of into the other 2 men-of-war. 

We sailed from Ascension the 8th; and continued aboard till the 8th ofMay: at which time the men-of-war, having missed St. Jago, where theydesigned to water, bore away for Barbados: but I being desirous to get toEngland as soon as possible took my passage in the ship Canterbury, accompanied with my master, purser, gunner, and 3 of my superiorofficers. 

... 

INDEX. 

Anabao Island:its inhabitants. 

Ascension Island:water found there. 

Babao in Timor. 

Batavia:arrival there. Its road. English ships there. Departure from thence. 

Bird Island. 

Birds, strange. 

Bonao Island. 

Bouro Island. 

Britain, New. 

Bird (strange) killed on the coast of New Guinea. 

Burning island. 

Burning island, another described. 

Calabash-trees. 

Calalaloo, herb. 

Cana-fistula-tree described. 

Cape Orford in New Guinea. 

Cape of Good Hope in New Guinea. 

Cave's, Anthony, Island. 

Cape, King William's. 

Cape and Port Gloucester. 

Cape Anne. 

Ceram Island described. 

Channel, a deep one. 

Ciccale, Port. 

Cockles, very big. 

Cockle-merchant, a fish. 

Cockle Island on the coast of New Guinea. 

Cupang Bay in Timor (see Kupang). 

Cross Island, discovered and described. 

Currents (see Tides). 

Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed. 

Dutch:the author's parley with them. Their suspicion of the author. 

Charts (Dutch), their falseness. 

Dutch fort called Concordia. 

Ende Island. 

Fetter Island. 

Figtrees of Timor described. 

Fish, strange. 

Fowls, strange. 

Gerrit Denis (Garret Dennis) Island, inhabitants described. 

Jelly found in the sea. 

George, St. :Cape and Bay in New Guinea. Another bay. The inhabitants there. A large account of the author's attempt to trade with them. 

New Guinea coast:inhabitants. Their manner of fishing. The author departs from New Guinea. 

Java Island. 

Indian plantation on the island Timor. 

Indian proas and their traffic. 

John's, St. , Island. 

King William's Island. 

Laphao in Timor. 

Laubana Island. 

Leak sprung, incurable. 

Long Island described. 

Lorantuca. 

Mabo, Cape. 

Man-of-war-birds. 

Mansheter's Island. 

Matthias Island. 

Misacomba Island. 

Montague:Port in New Guinea. The country thereabouts described and its produce. 

New Guinea. 

Nova Britannia, (see New Britain). 

Omba Island. 

Palmtrees:a new one conjectured. A new one discovered. Two sorts described. 

Parley with the Portuguese at Timor. 

Pentare Island. 

Pigeons, great numbers of them on the coast of New Guinea. 

Porta Nova. 

Providence Island. 

Princes Isle. 

Pulo Subada Isle. 

Pulo Baby. 

Return (the author's) to England. 

Rich's (Sir R. ) Island. 

Ringing-bird. 

Rook's (Sir George) Island. 

Roti (Rotee) Island. 

Rosemary Island. 

Sago, how made. 

Sandal-tree. 

Schouten's Island. 

Sesial Port in Timor. 

Shark's Bay. 

Ship lost. 

Slingers Bay. 

Snakes:land-snakes. 

Spout. 

Squally Island. 

Sunda Straits. 

Terra Australis Incognita, what to be expected there. 

Thwart-the-way Island. 

Tides strange and uncertain, see Currents. 

Timor Island:described. The Dutch settlement. The Portuguese settlement. Its inhabitants. Its fruits and animals. Trade. Weather. The author's departure from it. 

Trees full of worms found in the sea. 

Tryal Rocks. 

Turtle Isles. 

Variation. 

Volcanoes. 

Watersnakes. 

Whales. 

Whirlpools. 

Wishart's Island.