A

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL

Antiquarian

AND

PICTURESQUE TOUR. 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE

Shakspeare Press

[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, NUREMBERG]

A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY. 

BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D. D. 

MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT. 

SECOND EDITION. 

VOLUME III. 

[Illustration: Logo]

DEI OMNIA PLENA. 

LONDON:

PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR. 

1829. 

CONTENTS OF VOLUME III. 

CONTENTS

VOLUME III. 

LETTER I. 

Strasbourg to Stuttgart. Baden. The Elder Schweighæuser. STUTTGART. The Public Library. The Royal Library, 1

LETTER II. 

The Royal Palace. A Bibliographical Negotiation. Dannecker the Sculptor. Environs of Stuttgart, 43

LETTER III. 

Departure from Stuttgart. ULM. AUGSBOURG. The Picture Gallery at Augsbourg, 55

LETTER IV. 

AUGSBOURG. Civil and Ecclesiastical Architecture. Population. Trade. The Public Library, 91

LETTER V. 

MUNICH. Churches. Royal Palace. Picture Gallery. The Public Library, 105

LETTER VI. Further Book-Acquisitions. Society. The Arts, 149

LETTER VII. 

Freysing. Landshut. Altöting. Salzburg. The Monastery of St. Peter, 169

LETTER VIII. 

Salzburg to Chremsminster. The Lake Gmunden. The Monastery of Chremsminster. Lintz, 206

LETTER IX. 

The Monasteries of St. Florian, Mölk, and Göttwic, 232

LETTER X. 

VIENNA. Imperial Library. Illuminated MSS. Andearly printed Books, 279

LETTER XI. 

Population. Streets and Fountains. Churches. Convents. Palaces. Theatres. The Prater. The Emperor's Private Library. Collection of DukeAlbert. Suburbs. Monastery of Closterneuburg. Departure fromVienna, 335

SUPPLEMENT. 

Ratisbon, Nuremberg, Manheim, 407

LETTER I. 

STRASBOURG TO STUTTGART. BADEN. THE ELDER SCHWEIGHÆUSER. STUTTGART. THEPUBLIC LIBRARY. THE ROYAL LIBRARY. 

_Stuttgart, Poste Royale, August 4, 1818. _

Within forty-eight hours of the conclusion of my last, I had passed thebroad and rapidly-flowing Rhine. Having taken leave of all my hospitableacquaintances at Strasbourg, I left the _Hôtel de l'Esprit_ between fiveand six in the afternoon--when the heat of the day had a littlesubsided--with a pair of large, sleek, post horses; one of which wasbestrode by the postilion, in the red and yellow livery of the duchy ofBaden. 

Our first halting place, to change horses, was _Kehl_; but we had nottravelled a league on this side of the Rhine, ere we discovered a palpabledifference in the general appearance of the country. There was morepasture-land. The houses were differently constructed, and were moregenerally surrounded by tall trees. Our horses carried us somewhat fleetlyalong a good, broad, and well-conditioned road. Nothing particularlyarrested our attention till we reached _Bischoffsheim, à la haute monté_;where the general use of the German language soon taught us the value ofour laquais; who, from henceforth, will be often called by his baptismalname of Charles. At Bischoffsheim, while fresh horses were being put to, Iwent to look at the church; an humble edifice--but rather picturesquelysituated. In my way thither I passed, with surprise, a great number of_Jews_ of both sexes; loitering in all directions. I learnt that this placewas the prescribed _limits_ of their peregrinations; and that they were notsuffered, by law, to travel beyond it: but whether this law restricted themfrom entering Suabia, or Bavaria, I could not learn. I approached thechurch, and with the aid of a good-natured verger, who happened luckily tospeak French, I was conducted all over the interior--which was sufficientlyneat. But the object of my peculiar astonishment was, that Jews, Protestants, and Catholics, all flocked alike, and frequently, at the SAMETIME, to exercise their particular forms of worship within this church!--acircumstance, almost partaking of the felicity of an Utopian commonwealth. I observed, indeed, a small crucifix upon the altar, which confirmed me inthe belief that the Lutheran worship, according to the form of theAugsbourg confession, was practised here; and the verger told me there wasno other place of worship in the village. His information might bedeceitful or erroneous; but it is to the honour of his character that Iadd, that, on offering him a half florin for his trouble in shewing me thechurch, he seemed to think it a point of conscience _not_ to receive it. His refusal was mild but firm--and he concluded by saying, gently repellingthe hand which held the money, "jamais, jamais!" Is it thus, thought I tomyself, that "they order things in" Germany?

The sun had set, and the night was coming on apace, after we left_Bischoffsheim_, and turned from the high road on the left, leading toRastadt to take the right, for _Baden_. For the advantage of a nearer cut, we again turned to the right--and passed through a forest of about a leaguein length. It was now quite dark and late: and if robbers were abroad, thissurely was the hour and the place for a successful attack upon defencelesstravellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the comfort of his pipe, which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which the light and scent wereequally cheering and pleasant. We were so completely hemmed in by trees, that their branches brushed strongly in our faces, as we rolled swiftlyalong. Every thing was enveloped in silence and darkness: but the age ofbanditti, as well as of chivalry--at least in Germany--appears to be"gone. " We sallied forth from the wood unmolested; gained again the highroad; and after discerning some lights at a distance, which our valet toldus (to our great joy) were the lights of BADEN, we ascended anddescended--till, at midnight, we entered the town. On passing a bridge, upon which I discerned a whole-length statue of _St. Francis_, (with theinfant Christ in his arms) we stopped, to the right, at the principalhotel, of which I have forgotten the name; but of which, one Monsieur or LeBaron Cotta, a bookseller of this town, is said to be the proprietor. 

The servants were yet stirring: but the hotel was so crowded that it wasimpossible to receive us. We pushed on quickly to another, of which I havealso forgotten the name--and found the principal street almost entirelyfilled by the carriages of visitors. Here again we were told there was noroom for us. Had it not been for our valet, we must have slept in the openstreet; but he recollected a third inn, whither we went immediately, and toour joy found just accommodation sufficient. We saw the carriage safely putinto the remise, and retired to rest. The next morning, upon looking out ofwindow, every thing seemed to be faëry land. I had scarcely ever beforeviewed so beautiful a spot. I found the town of Baden perfectly surroundedby six or seven lofty, fir-clad hills, of tapering forms, and of luxuriantverdure. Thus, although compared with such an encircling belt of hills, Baden may be said to lie in a hollow--it is nevertheless, of itself, uponelevated ground; commanding views of lawns, intersected by gravel walks; oftemples, rustic benches, and detached buildings of a variety ofdescription. Every thing, in short, bespeaks nature improved by art; andevery thing announced that I was in a place frequented by the rich, thefashionable, and the gay. 

I was not long in finding out the learned and venerable SCHWEIGHÆUSER, whohad retired here, for a few weeks, for the benefit of the waters--whichflow from _hot_ springs, and which are said to perform wonders. Rheumatism, debility, ague, and I know not what disorders, receive their respective andcertain cures from bathing in these tepid waters. I found the Professor ina lodging house, attached to the second hotel which we had visited on ourarrival. I sent up my name, with a letter of introduction which I hadreceived from his Son. I was made most welcome. In this celebrated Greekscholar, and editor of some of the most difficult ancient Greek authors, Ibeheld a figure advanced in years--somewhere about seventy-five--tall, slim, but upright, and firm upon his legs: with a thin, and at first view, severe countenance--but, when animated by conversation, and accompanied bya clear and melodious voice, agreeable, and inviting to discourse. TheProfessor was accompanied by one of his daughters; strongly resembling herbrother, who had shewn me so much kindness at Strasbourg. She told me herfather was fast recovering strength; and the old gentleman, as well as hisdaughter, strongly invited us to dinner; an invitation which we werecompelled to decline. 

On leaving, I walked nearly all over the town, and its immediate environs:but my first object was the CHURCH, upon the top of the hill; from whichthe earliest (_Protestant_) congregation were about to depart--not before Iarrived in time to hear some excellently good vocal and instrumental music, from the front seat of a transverse gallery. There was much in this churchwhich had an English air about it: but my attention was chiefly directed tosome bronze monuments towards the eastern extremity, near the altar; andfenced off, if I remember rightly, by some rails from the nave and sideaisles. Of these monuments, the earliest is that of _Frederick, Bishop ofTreves_. He died in 1517, in his 59th year. The figure of him is recumbent:with a mitre on his head, and a quilted mail for his apron. The body isalso protected, in parts, with plate armour. He wears a ring upon each ofthe first three fingers of his right hand. It is an admirable piece ofworkmanship: bold, sharp, correct, and striking in all its parts. Near thisepiscopal monument is another, also of bronze, of a more imposingcharacter; namely, of _Leopold William Margrave or Duke of Baden_, who diedin 1671, and of the _Duchess_, his wife. The figure of Leopold, evidently astriking portrait, is large, heavy, and ungracious; but that of his wifemakes ample amends--for a more beautifully expressive and interestingbronze figure, has surely never been reared upon a monumental pedestal. Sheis kneeling, and her hands are closed--in the act of prayer. The head isgently turned aside, as well as inclined: the mouth is very beautiful, andhas an uncommon sweetness of expression: the hair, behind, is singular butnot inelegant. The following is a part of the inscription: "_Vivit postfunera virtus. Numinis hinc pietas conjugis inde trahit_. " I would givehalf a dozen ducats out of the supplemental supply of Madame Francs to havea fine and faithful copy of this very graceful and interesting monumentalfigure. As I left the church, the second (_Catholic_) congregation wasentering for divine worship. Meanwhile the heavens were "black withclouds;" the morning till eleven o'clock, having been insufferably hot anda tremendous thunder storm--which threatened to deluge the whole place withrain--moved, in slow and sullen majesty, quite round and round the town, without producing any other effect than that of a few sharp flashes, andgrowling peals, at a distance. But the darkened and flitting shadows uponthe fir trees, on the hills, during the slow wheeling of the threateningstorm, had a magnificently picturesque appearance. 

The walks, lawns, and rustic benches about Baden, are singularly pretty andconvenient. Here was a play-house; there, a temple; yonder, a tavern, whither the _Badenois_ resorted to enjoy their Sunday dinner. One of thesetaverns was unusually large and convenient. I entered, as a stranger, tolook around me: and was instantly struck by the notes of the deepest-tonedbass voice I had ever heard--accompanied by some rapidly executed passagesupon the harp. These ceased--and the softer strains of a young female voicesucceeded. Yonder was a _master singer_[1]--as I deemed him--somewhatstooping from age; with white hairs, but with a countenance stronglycharacteristic of intellectual energy of _some_ kind. He was sitting in achair. By the side of him stood the young female, about fourteen, fromwhose voice the strains, just heard, had proceeded. They sang alternately, and afterwards together: the man holding down his head as he struck thechords of his harp with a bold and vigorous hand. I learnt that they wereuncle and niece. I shall not readily forget the effect of these figures, orof the songs which they sang; especially the sonorous notes of themastersinger, or minstrel. He had a voice of most extraordinary compass. Iquickly perceived that I was now in the land of music; but the guestsseemed to be better pleased with their food than with the songs of this oldbard, for he had scarcely received a half florin since I noticed him. 

Professor Schweighæuser came to visit me at the appointed hour of six, inorder to have an evening stroll together to a convent, about two miles off, which is considered to be the fashionable evening walk and ride of theplace. I shall long have reason to remember this walk; as well from theinstructive discourse of my venerable and deeply learned guide, as from thebeauty of the scenery and variety of the company. As the heat of the daysubsided, the company quitted their tables in great crowds. The mall wasfull. Here was Eugene Beauharnois, drawn in a carriage by four blacksteeds, with traces of an unusual length between the leaders and wheelhorses. A grand Duke was parading to the right: to the left, a Marchionesswas laughing _à pleine gorge_. Here walked a Count, and there rode aGeneral. Bavarians, Austrians, French, and English--intermixed with thetradesmen of Baden, and the rustics of the adjacent country--all, glittering in their gayest sabbath-attires, mingled in the throng, andappeared to vie with each other in gaiety and loudness of talk. 

We gained a more private walk, within a long avenue of trees; where a smallfountain, playing in the midst of a grove of elm and beech, attracted theattention both of the Professor and ourselves. "It is here, " observed theformer--"where I love to come and read your favourite Thomson. " He thenmentioned Pope, and quoted some verses from the opening of his Essay onMan--and also declared his particular attachment to Young and Akenside. "But our Shakspeare and Milton, Sir--what think you of these?" "They aredoubtless very great and superior to either: but if I were to say that Iunderstood them as well, I should say what would be an untruth: and nothingis more disgusting than an affectation of knowing what you have, comparatively, very little knowledge of. " We continued our route towardsthe convent, at a pretty brisk pace; with great surprise, on my part, atthe firm and rapid movements of the Professor. Having reached the convent, we entered, and were admitted within the chapel. The nuns had just retired;but we were shewn the partition of wood which screens them most effectuallyfrom the inquisitive eyes of the rest of the congregation. We crossed ashallow, but rapidly running brook, over which was only one plank, of theordinary width, to supply the place of a bridge. The venerable Professorled the way--tripping along so lightly, and yet so surely, as to excite ourwonder. We then mounted the hill on the opposite side of the convent; wherethere are spiral, and neatly trimmed, gravel walks, which afford the meansof an easy and pleasant ascent--but not altogether free from a few sharpand steep turnings. From the summit of this hill, the Professor bade melook around, and view a valley which was the pride of the neighbourhood, and which was considered to have no superior in Suabia. It was certainlyvery beautiful--luxuriant in pasture and woodland scenery, and surroundedby hills crowned with interminable firs. 

As we descended, the clock of the convent struck eight, which was succeededby the tolling of the convent bell. After a day of oppressive heat, with alowering atmosphere threatening instant tempest, it was equally, gratefuland refreshing to witness a calm blue sky, chequered by light fleecyclouds, which, as they seemed to be scarcely impelled along by the eveningbreeze, were fringed in succession by the hues of a golden sun-set. Thedarkening shadows of the trees added to the generally striking effect ofthe scene. As we neared the town, I perceived several of the common people, apparently female rustics, walking in couples, or in threes, with theirarms round each others necks, joining in some of the popular airs of theircountry. The off-hand and dextrous manner in which they managed the _secondparts_, surprised and delighted me exceedingly. I expressed mygratification to Mr. Schweighæuser, who only smiled at my wonderingsimplicity. "If _these_ delight you so much, what would you say to our_professors_?"--observed he. "Possibly, I might not like them quite sowell, " replied I. The professor pardoned such apparent heresy; and wecontinued to approach the town. We were thirsty from our walk, and wishedto enter the tea gardens to partake of refreshment. Our guide became hereboth our interpreter and best friend; for he insisted upon treating us. Weretired into a bocage, and partook of one of the most delicious bottles ofwhite wine which I ever remember to have tasted. He was urgent for a secondbottle; but I told him we were very sober Englishmen. 

In our way home, the discourse fell upon literature, and I was anxious toobtain from our venerable companion an account of his early studies, andpartialities for the texts of such Greek authors as he had edited. He toldme that he was first put upon collations of Greek MSS. By our _Dr. Musgrave_, for his edition of _Euripides_; and that he dated, from thatcircumstance, his first and early love of classical research. Thisattachment had increased upon him as he became older--had "grown with hisgrowth, and strengthened with his strength"--and had induced him to grapplewith the unsettled, and in parts difficult, texts of _Appian_, _Epictetus_, and _Athenæus_. He spoke with a modest confidence of his _Herodotus_--justpublished: said that he was even then meditating a _second_ Latin versionof it: and observed that, for the more perfect execution of the one nowbefore the public, he had prepared himself by a diligent perusal of thetexts of the purer Latin historians. We had now entered the town, and itwas with regret that I was compelled to break off such interestingconversation. In spite of the lateness of the hour (ten o'clock) and thedarkness of the evening, the worthy old Grecian would not suffer me toaccompany him home--although the route to his house was devious, and inpart precipitously steep, and the Professor's sight was not remarkablygood. When we parted, it was agreed that I should breakfast with him on themorrow, at eight o'clock, as we intended to quit Baden at nine. 

The next morning, I was true to the hour. The Professor's coffee, bread, butter, and eggs were excellent. Having requested our valet to settle everything at the inn, and bring the carriage and horses to the door of M. Schweighæuser by nine o'clock, I took a hearty leave of our amiable andvenerable host, accompanied with mutual regrets at the shortness of thevisit--and with a resolution to cultivate an acquaintance so heartilybegan. As we got into the carriage, I held up his portrait which Mr. Lewishad taken, [2] and told him "he would be neither out of _sight_ nor out of_mind_" He smiled graciously--waved his right hand from the balcony uponwhich he stood--and by half-past nine we found the town of Baden in ourrear. I must say that I never left a place, which had so many attractions, with keener regret, and a more fixed determination to revisit it. That"revisit" may possibly never arise; but I recommend all English travellersto spend a week, at the least, at Baden--called emphatically, _Baden-Baden_. The young may be gratified by the endless amusements ofsociety, in many of its most polished forms. The old may be delighted bythe contemplation of nature in one of her most picturesque aspects, as wellas invigorated by the waters which gush in boiling streams from her rockysoil. 

I shall not detain you a minute upon the road from Baden to this place;although we were nearly twenty-four hours so detained. _Rastadt_ and_Karlsruhe_ are the only towns worth mentioning in the route. The former ischiefly distinguished for its huge and tasteless castle or palace--a sortof Versailles in miniature; and the latter is singularly pleasing to anEnglishman's eye, from the trim and neat appearance of the houses, walks, and streets; which latter have the footpaths almost approaching to ourpavement. You enter and quit the town through an avenue of lofty and largestemmed poplars, at least a mile long. The effect, although formal, ispleasing. They were the loftiest poplars which I had ever beheld. Thechurches, public buildings, gardens, and streets (of which _latter_ theprincipal is a mile long) have all an air of tidiness and comfort; althoughthe very sight of them is sufficient to freeze the blood of an antiquary. There is nothing, apparently, more than ninety-nine years old! We dined atKarlsruhe, and slept at _Schweiberdingen_, one stage on this side ofStuttgart: but for two or three stages preceding Stuttgart, we wereabsolutely astonished at the multitude of apple-trees, laden, even to thebreaking down of the branches, with goodly fruit, just beginning to ripen:and therefore glittering in alternate hues of red and yellow--all along theroad-side as well as in private gardens. The vine too was equally fruitful, and equally promising of an abundant harvest. 

There was a drizzling rain when we entered THIS TOWN. We passed the longrange of royal stables to the right, and the royal palace to the left; thelatter, with the exception of a preposterously large gilt crown placed uponthe central part of a gilt cushion, in every respect worthy of a royalresidence. On, driving to the hotel of the _Roi d'Angleterre_, we foundevery room and every bed occupied; and were advised to go to the place fromwhence I now address you. But the _Roman Emperor_ is considered to be morefashionable: that is to say, the charges are more extravagant. Anothertime, however, I will visit neither the one nor the other; but take up myquarters at the _King of Wirtemberg_--the neatest, cleanliest, and mostcomfortable hotel in Stuttgart. In _this_ house there is too much noise andbustle for a traveller whose nerves are liable to be affected. 

As a whole, Stuttgart is a thoroughly dull place. Its immediate environsare composed of vine-covered hills, which, at this season of the year, havean extremely picturesque appearance; but, in winter, when nothing but afallow-like looking earth is visible, the effect must be very dreary. Thistown is large, and the streets--especially the _Könings-strasse, _ orKing-Street, --are broad and generally well paved. The population may beabout twenty-two thousand. He who looks for antiquities, will be cruellydisappointed; with the exception of the _Hôtel de Ville_, which is placednear a church, and more particularly of a _Crucifix_--there is little ornothing to satisfy the hungry cravings of a thorough-bred EnglishAntiquary. The latter is of stone, of a rough grain, and sombre tint: andthe figures are of the size of life. They are partly mutilated; especiallythe right leg of our Saviour, and the nose of St. John. Yet you will notfail to distinguish, particularly from the folds of the drapery, thatprecise character of art which marked the productions both of the chiseland of the pencil in the first half of the sixteenth century. The Christis, throughout, even including the drapery, finely marked; and the attitudeof the Virgin, in looking up, has great expression. She embraces intenselythe foot of the cross; while her eyes and very soul seem to be as intenselyrivetted to her suffering and expiring Son. 

I was not long in introducing myself to M. LE BRET, the head Librarian; forthe purpose of gaining admission to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. That gentleman andmyself have not only met, but met frequently and cordially. Each interviewonly increased the desire for a repetition of it: and the worthy andwell-informed Head Librarian has partaken of a trout and veal dinner withme, and shared in one bottle of _Fremder Wein_, and in another of_Ordinärer Wein_. [3] We have, in short, become quite sociable; and I willbegin by affirming, that, a more thoroughly competent, active, andhonourable officer, for the situation which he occupies, his Majesty theKing of Würtemberg does not possess in any nook, corner, or portion of hisSuabian dominions. I will prove what I say at the point of--my pen. Yetmore extraordinary intelligence. A "deed of note" has been performed; andto make the mystery more mysterious, you are to know that I have paid myrespects to the King, at his late levee; the first which has taken placesince the accouchement of the Queen. [4] And what should be the _object_ ofthis courtly visit? Truly, nothing more or less than to agitate a questionrespecting the possession of _two old editions of Virgil_, printed in theyear 1471. But let me be methodical. 

When I parted from Lord Spencer on this "Bibliographical, Antiquarian andPicturesque Tour, " I was reminded by his Lordship of the second edition ofthe _Virgil_ printed at Rome by _Sweynheym_ and _Pannartz_, and of anotheredition, _printed by Adam_, in 1471, both being in the public library ofthis place:--but, rather with a desire, than any seriously-grounded hope, on his part of possessing them. Now, when we were running down upon_Nancy_--as described in a recent despatch, [5] I said to Mr. Lewis, onobtaining a view of what I supposed might be the Vosges, that, "behind theVosges was the _Rhine_, and on the other side of the Rhine was _Stuttgart!_and it was at Stuttgart that I should play my first trump-card in thebibliographical pack which I carried about me. " But all this seemedmystery, or methodised madness, to my companion. However, I always bore hisLordship's words in mind--and something as constantly told me that I shouldgain possession of these long sought after treasures: but in fair andhonourable combat: such as beseemeth a true bibliographical Knight. 

Having proposed to visit the public library on the morrow--and to renew thevisit as often and as long as I pleased--I found, on my arrival, the worthyHead Librarian, seriously occupied in a careful estimate of the value ofthe Virgils in question--and holding up _Brunet's Manuel du Libraire_ inhis right hand--"Tenez, mon ami, " exclaimed he, "vous voyez que la secondeédition de Virgile, imprimée par vos amis Sweynheym et Pannartz, est encoreplus rare que la premiére. " I replied that "c'étoit la fantasie seule del'auteur. " However, he expressed himself ready to receive preliminaries, which would be submitted to the Minister of the Interior, and by him--tothe King; for that the library was the exclusive property of his Majesty. It was agreed, in the first instance, that the amount of the pecuniaryvalue of the two books should be given in modern books of our own country;and I must do M. Le Bret the justice to say, that, having agreed upon theprobable pecuniary worth, he submitted a list of books, to be received inexchange, which did equal honour to his liberality and judgment. 

I have said something about the _local_ of this Public Library, and of itsbeing situated in the market-place. [6] This market-place, or square, is inthe centre of the town; and it is the only part, in the immediate vicinityof which the antiquarian's eye is cheered by a sight of the architecture ofthe sixteenth century. It is in this immediate vicinity, that the _Hôtel deVille_ is situated; a building, full of curious and interesting relics ofsculpture in wood and stone. Just before it, is a fountain of black marble, where the women come to fetch water, and the cattle to drink. Walking in astraight line with the front of the public library (which is at rightangles with the Hôtel de Ville) you gain the best view of this Hotel, inconjunction with the open space, or market place, and of the churches inthe distance. About this spot, Mr. Lewis fixed himself, with his pencil andpaper in hand, and produced a drawing from which I select the followingfelicitous portion. 

[Illustration: Drawing]

But to return to the Public Library. You are to know therefore, that ThePublic Library of Stuttgart contains, in the whole, about 130, 000 volumes. Of these, there are not fewer than 8200 volumes relating to the _SacredText_: exclusively of duplicates. This library has been indeed longcelebrated for its immense collection of _Bibles_. The late King ofWürtemberg, but more particularly his father, was chiefly instrumental tothis extraordinary collection:--and yet, of the very earlier Latinimpressions, they want the _Mazarine_, or the _Editio Princeps_; and thethird volume of _Pfister's_ edition. Indeed the first volume of their copyof the latter wants a leaf or two of prefatory matter. They have two copiesof the first _German Bible_, by _Mentelin_[7]--of which _one_ should bedisposed of, for the sake of contributing to the purchase of the earliestedition of the Latin series. Each copy is in the original binding; but theyboast of having a _complete series of German Bibles_ before the time ofLuther; and of Luther's earliest impression of 1524, printed by Peypus, they have a fine copy UPON VELLUM, like that in the Althorp Library; but Ithink taller. Of Fust's Bible of 1462, there is but an indifferent andcropt copy, upon paper; but of the _Polish Bible_ of 1563, there is a veryfine one, in the first oaken binding. Of _English Bibles_, there is noedition before that of 1541, of which the copy happens to be imperfect. They have a good large copy, in the original binding, of the _SclavonianBible_ of 1581. Yet let me not dismiss this series of earlier Bibles, printed in different languages, without noticing the copies of _Italianversions_ of August and October 1471. Of the August impression, there isunluckily only the second volume; but such _another_ second volume will notprobably be found in any public or private library in Europe. It is just asif it had come fresh from the press of _Vindelin de Spira_, its printer. Some of the capital letters are illuminated in the sweetest mannerpossible. The leaves are white, unstained, and crackling; and the bindingis of wood. Of the _October_ impression, the copy is unequal: that is tosay, the first volume is cruelly cut, but the second is fine and tall. Itis in blue morocco binding. I must however add, in this biblicaldepartment, that they possess a copy of our _Walton's Polyglott_ with the_original dedication_ to King Charles II. ; of the extreme rarity of whichM. Le Bret was ignorant. [8]

I now come to the CLASSICS. Of course the _two Virgils_ of 1471 were thefirst objects of my examination. The _Roman_ edition was badly bound in redmorocco; that of _Adam_ was in its original binding of wood. When I openedthe _latter_, it was impossible to conceal my gratification. I turned to M. Le Bret, and then to the book--and to the Head Librarian, and to thebook--again and again! "How now, Mons. Le Bibliographe?" (exclaimed theprofessor--for M. Le Bret is a Professor of belles-lettres), "I observethat you are perfectly enchanted with what is before you?" There was nodenying the truth of the remark--and I could plainly discern that theworthy Head Librarian was secretly enjoying the attestations of mytransport. "The more I look at these two volumes (replied I, very leisurelyand gravely, ) the more I am persuaded that they will become the property ofEarl Spencer. " M. Le Bret laughed aloud at the strangeness of this reply. Iproceeded to take a particular account of them. [9]

Here is an imperfect copy of an edition of _Terence_, by _Reisinger_, infolio; having only 130 leaves, and twenty-two lines in a full page. [10] Itis the first copy of this edition which I ever saw; and I am much deceivedif it be exceeded by any edition of the same author in rarity: and when Isay this, I am not unmindful of the Editio Princeps of it by_Mentelin_--which happens _not_ to be here. There is, however, abeautifully white copy of this latter printer's Editio Princeps of_Valerius Maximus_; but not so tall as the largest of the two copies ofthis same edition which I saw at Strasbourg. Of the _Offices of Cicero_, of1466, there is rather a fine tall copy (within a quarter of an inch of teninches high) UPON VELLUM; in the original wooden binding. The first two orthree leaves have undergone a little martyrdom, by being scribbled upon. OfJ. De Spira's edition of the _Epistles of Cicero_, of 1469--having thecolophon on the recto of the last leaf--here is a fine, broad-marginedcopy, which however ought to be cleansed from the stains which disfigureit. I was grieved to see so indifferent a copy of the Edit. Prin. Of_Tacitus_: but rejoiced at beholding so large and beautiful a one (in itsoriginal wooden binding) of the _Lucan_ of 1475, with the Commentary ofOmnibonus; printed as I conceive, by _I. De Colonia and M. DeGherretzem_. [11]

But I had nearly forgotten to acquaint you with a remarkably fine, thick-leaved, crackling copy--yet perhaps somewhat cropt--of Cardinal_Bessarion's Epistles_, printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz at Rome in 1469. It is in old gilt edges, in a sort of binding of wood. 

I now come to the notice of a few choice and rare _Italian books_: andfirst, for _Dante_. Here is probably the rarest of all the earlier editionsof this poet: that is to say, the edition printed at Naples by Tuppo, intwo columns, having forty-two lines in a full column. At the end of the_Inferno_, we read "Gloria in excelsis Deo, " in the gothic letter; the textbeing uniformly roman. At the end of the _Purgatorio_:

 SOLI DEO GLORIA. Erubescat Judeus Infelir. 

At the end of the _Paradiso_: DEO GRATIAS--followed by Tuppo's address toHonofrius Carazolus of Naples. A register is on the recto of the followingand last leaf. This copy is large, but in a dreadfully loose, shattered, and dingy state--in the original wooden binding. So precious an editionshould be instantly rebound. Here is the Dante of 1478, with the_Commentary of Guido Terzago, printed at Milan in_ 1478, folio. The text ofthe poet is in a fine, round, and legible roman type--that of thecommentator, in a small and disagreeable gothic character. 

_Petrarch_ shall follow. The rarest edition of him, which I have been ableto put my hand upon, is that printed at Bologna in 1476 with the commentaryof Franciscus Philelphus. Each sonnet is followed by its particularcomment. The type is a small roman, not very unlike the smallest of UlricHan, or Reisinger's usual type, and a full page-contains forty-one lines. 

Of _Boccaccio_, here is nothing which I could observe particularly worthyof description, save the very rare edition of the _Nimphale_ of 1477, printed by _Bruno Valla of Piedmont_, and _Thomaso of Alexandria. _ A fullpage has thirty-two lines. 

I shall conclude the account of the rarer books, which it was my chance toexamine in the Public Library of Stuttgart, with what ought perhaps, morecorrectly, to have formed the earliest articles in this partialcatalogue:--I mean, the _Block Books_. Here is a remarkably beautiful, anduncoloured copy of the first Latin edition of the _Speculum HumanæSalvationis_. It _has_ been bound--although it be now unbound, and has beenunmercifully cut. As far as I can trust to my memory, the impressions ofthe cuts in this copy are sharper and clearer than any which I have seen. Of the _Apocalypse_, there is a copy of the second edition, wanting a leaf. It is sound and clean, but coloured and cut. Unbound, but formerly bound. Here is a late German edition of the _Ars Moriendi_, having thirty-fourlines on the first page. Of the _Historia Beatæ Virginis_, here is a copyof what I should consider to be the second Latin edition; precisely like aGerman edition of the _Biblia Pauperum_, with the express date of1470, --which is also here. The similarity is in the style of art andcharacter of the type, which latter has much of a _Bamberg_ cast about it. But of the _Latin Biblia Pauperum_ here is a copy of the first edition, very imperfect, and in wretched condition. And thus much, or rather thuslittle, for _Block Books. _

A word or two now for the MANUSCRIPTS--which, indeed, according to theorder usually observed in these Letters, should have preceded thedescription of the printed books. I will begin with a _Psalter, _ in smallfolio, which I should have almost the hardihood to pronounce of the_tenth_--but certainly of the early part of the _eleventh_--century. Thetext is executed in lower-case roman letters, large and round. It aboundswith illuminations, of about two inches in height, and six inlength--running horizontally, and embedded as it were in the text. Thefigures are, therefore, necessarily small. Most of these illuminations, have a greenish back-ground. The armour is generally in the Roman fashion:the helmets being of a low conical form, and the shields having a largeknob in the centre. 

Next comes an _Evangelistarium_ "seculo undecimo aut circà annum1100:--pertinuit ad Monasterium Gengensbachense in Germania, ut legitur inmargine primi folii. " The preceding memorandum is written at the beginningof the volume, but the inscription to which it alludes has been partlydestroyed--owing to the tools of a modern book-binder. The scription ofthis old MS. Is in a thick, lower case, roman letter. The illuminations areinteresting: especially that of the Scribe, at the beginning, who isrepresented in a white and delicately ornamented gown, or roquelaure, withgold, red, and blue borders, and a broad black border at bottom. The robeshould seem to be a monastic garment: but the figure is probably that ofSt. Jerom. It is standing before an opened book. The head is shaved at top;an azure glory is round the head. The back-ground of the whole is gold, with an arabesque border. I wish I could have spared time to make afacsimile of it. There are also figures of the four Evangelists, in theusual style of art of this period; the whole in fine preservation. Thecapital initials are capricious, but tasteful. We observe birds, beasts, dragons, &c. Coiled up in a variety of whimsical forms. The L. At thebeginning of the "Liber Generationis, " is, as usual in highly executedworks of art of this period, peculiarly elaborate and striking. 

A _Psalter_, of probably a century later, next claims our attention. It isa small folio, executed in a large, bold, gothic character. Theilluminations are entirely confined to the capital initials, whichrepresent some very grotesque, and yet picturesque grouping of animals andhuman figures--all in a state of perfect preservation. The goldback-grounds are not much raised, but of a beautiful lustre. It isapparently imperfect at the end. The _binding_ merits distinct notice. Inthe centre of one of the outside covers, is a figure of the Almighty, sitting; in that of the other, are the Virgin and Infant Christ, alsositting. Each subject is an illumination of the time of those in the volumeitself; and each is surrounded by pencil-coloured ornaments, divided intosquares, by pieces of tin, or lead soldered. A sheet of _horn_ is placedover the whole of the exterior cover, to protect it from injury. Thisbinding is uncommon, but I should apprehend it to be not earlier than thevery commencement of the xvth century. 

I have not yet travelled out of the twelfth century; and mean to give yousome account of rather a splendid and precious MS. Entitled _VitæSanctorum_--supposed to be of the same period. It is said to have beenexecuted under the auspices of the _Emperor Conrad, _ who was chosen in 1169and died in 1193. It is an elegant folio volume. The illuminations are inoutline; in red, brown, or blue--firmly and truly touched, with veryfanciful inventions in the forms of the capital letters. The initial letterprefixed to the account of the _Assumption of the Virgin_, is abundantlyclever and whimsical; while that prefixed to the Life of _St. Aurelius_ haseven an imposing air of magnificence, and is the most important in thevolume. 

Here is a curious _History of the Bible, in German verse_, as I learn, byRudolph, Count of Hohen Embs. Whether "curious" or not, I cannot tell; butI can affirm that, since opening the famous MS. Of the Romand'Alexandre, [12] at Oxford, I have not met with a finer, or more genuineMS. Than the present. It is a noble folio volume; highly, although in manyplaces coarsely, adorned. The text is executed in a square, stiff, Germanletter, in double columns; and the work was written (as M. Le Bret informedme, and as warranted by the contents) "in obedience to the orders of theEmperor Conrad, son of the Emperor Frederick II: the greater part of itbeing composed after the chronicle of Geoffrey de Viterbe. " To specify theilluminations would be an endless task. At the end of the MS. Are thefollowing colophonic verses:

 _Uf den fridag was sts Brictius Do nam diz buch ende alsus Nach godis geburten dusint jar Dar su ccc dni vnx achtzig als eyn har_. 

the "_ccc_" are interlined, in red ink: but the whole inscription impliesthat the book was finished in 1381, on Friday, the day of St. Brictius. Itfollows therefore that it could not have been written during the life-timeof Conrad IV. Who was elected Emperor in 1250. This interesting MS. Is in amost desirable condition. 

There are two or three _Missals_ deserving only of brief notice. One, ofthe XIVth century, is executed in large gothic letter; having anexceedingly vivid and fresh illumination of a crucifixion, but in badtaste, opposite the well-known passage of "Te igitur clementissime, " &c. Itis bound in red satin. Two missals of the xvth century--of which onepresents only a few interesting prints connected with art. It is ornamentedin a sort of bistre outline, preparatory to colouring--of which numerousexamples may be seen in the Breviary of the Duke of Bedford in the RoyalLibrary at Paris. [13] I examined half a dozen more Missals, which the kindactivity of M. Le Bret had placed before me, and among them found nothingdeserving of particular observation, --except a thick, short, octavo volume, in the German language, with characteristic and rather cleverembellishments; especially in the borders. 

There is a folio volume entitled "_La Vie, Mort, et Miracles de St. Jerome_. " The first large illumination, which is prettily composed, isunluckily much injured in some parts. It represents the author kneeling, with his cap in his right hand, and a book bound in black, with gold claspsand knobs, in the other. A lady appears to receive this presentation-volumevery graciously; but unfortunately her countenance is obliterated. Twofemale attendants are behind her: the whole, gracefully composed. I takethis MS. To be of the end of the xvth. Century. There is a most desirableMS. Of the _Roman de la Rose_--of the end of the xivth century; in doublecolumns; with some of the illuminations, about two inches square, verysweet and interesting. That, on the recto of folio xiiij, is quitecharming. The "testament" of the author, J. De Meun, follows; quietlydecorated, within flowered borders. The last illumination but one, of ourSaviour, sitting upon a rainbow is very singular. This MS. Is in its oldbinding of wood. 

A few _miscellaneous articles_ may be here briefly noticed. First: a Germanmetrical version of the Game of Chess, moralized, called _Der Schachzabel. _This is an extraordinary, and highly illuminated MS. Upon paper; written ina sort of secretary gothic hand, in short rhyming verse, as I conceiveabout the year 1400, or 1450. The embellishments are large and droll, andin several of them we distinguish that thick, and shining, but cracked coatof paint which is upon the old print of St. Bridget, in Lord Spencer'scollection. [14] Among the more striking illuminations is the _Knight_ onhorseback, in silver armour, about nine inches high--a fine showy fellow!His horse has silver plates over his head. Many of the pieces in the gameare represented in a highly interesting manner, and the whole is invaluableto the antiquary. This MS. Is in boards. Second: a German version of_Maundeville_, of the date of 1471, with curious, large, and grotesqueilluminations, of the coarsest execution. It is written in double columns, in a secretary gothic hand, upon paper. The heads of the Polypheme tribeare ludicrously horrible. Third:--_Herren Duke of Brunswick_, or the_Chevalier au Lion_, --a MS. Relating to this hero, of the date of 1470. Alion accompanies him every where. Among the embellishments, there is a goodone of this animal leaping upon a tomb and licking it--as containing themortal remains of his master. Fourth: a series of German stanzas, sung bybirds, each bird being represented, in outline, before the stanzaappropriated to it. In the whole, only three leaves. 

The "last and not least" of the MSS. Which I deem it worthy to mention, isan highly illuminated one of _St. Austin upon the Psalms_. This was the_first_ book which I remembered to have seen, upon the continent, from thelibrary of the famous _Corvinus King of Hungary, _ about which certain pageshave discoursed largely. It was also an absolutely beautiful book:exhibiting one of the finest specimens of art of the latter end of the XVthcentury. The commentary of the Saint begins on the recto of the secondleaf, within such a rich, lovely, and exquisitely executed border--asalmost made me forget the embellishments in the _Sforziada_ in the RoyalLibrary of France. [15] The border in question is a union of pearls andarabesque ornaments quite standing out of the background ... Which latterhas the effect of velvet. The arms, below, are within a double border ofpearls, each pair of pearls being within a gold circle upon an ultramarineground. The heads and figures have not escaped injury, but other portionsof this magical illumination have been rubbed or partly obliterated. 

A ms. Note, prefixed by M. Le Bret, informs us, in the opinion of itswriter, that this illumination was the work of one "_Actavantes deActavantibus of Florence_, --who lived towards the end of the XVth century, "and who really seems to have done a great deal for Corvinus. The initialletters, throughout this volume, delicately cross-barred in gold, withlittle flowers and arabesques, &c. Precisely resemble those in the MS. OfMr. Hibbert. [16] Such a white, snowy page, as the one just in partdescribed, can scarcely be imagined by the uninitiated in ancientilluminated MSS. The binding, in boards covered with leather, has theoriginal ornaments, of the time of Corvinus, which are now much faded. Thefore-edges of the leaves preserve their former gilt-stamped ornaments. Uponthe whole--an ALMOST MATCHLESS book!

Such, my good friend, are the treasures, both in MS. And in print, which acouple of morning's application, in the Public Library of Stuttgart, haveenabled me to bring forward for your notice. A word or two, now, for thetreasures of the ROYAL LIBRARY, and then for a little respite. The Libraryof his Majesty is in one of the side wings, or rather appurtenances, of thePalace: to the right, on looking at the front. It is on the firstfloor--where _all_ libraries should be placed--and consists of a circularand a parallelogram-shaped room: divided by a screen of Ionic pillars. Asimilar screen is also at the further end of the latter room. The circularapartment has a very elegant appearance, and contains some beautiful bookschiefly of modern art. A round table is in the centre, covered with finecloth, and the sides and pillars of the screen are painted wholly inwhite--as well as the room connected with it. A gallery goes along thelatter, or parallelogram-shaped apartment; and there are, in the centre, two rows of book-cases, very tall, and completely filled with books. These, as well as the book-cases along the sides, are painted white. Anelaborately painted ceiling, chiefly composed of human figures, forms thegraphic ornament of the long library; but, unluckily, the centralbook-cases are so high as to cover a great portion of the painting--viewedalmost in any direction. At the further end of the long library, facing thecircular extremity, is a bust of the late King of Würtemberg, by Dannecker. It bears so strong a resemblance to that of our own venerable monarch, thatI had considered it to be a representation of him--out of compliment to theDowager Queen of Würtemberg, his daughter. The ceiling of this Library isundoubtedly too low for its length. But the circular extremity hassomething in it exceedingly attractive, and inviting to study. 

In noticing some of the contents of this Library, I shall correct the errorcommitted in the account of the Public Library, by commencing here with theMANUSCRIPTS in preference to the Printed Books. The MSS. Are by no meansnumerous, and are perhaps rather curious than intrinsically valuable. Ishall begin with an account of a _Prayer-Book, or Psalter, _ in a quartoform, undoubtedly of the latter end of the XIIth century. Its state ofpreservation, both for illumination and scription, is quite exquisite. Itappears to have been expressly executed for Herman, and Sophia his wife, King and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia--who lived at the latter end of thetwelfth century. The names of these royal patrons and owners of, the volumeare introduced at the end of the volume, in a sort of litany: accompaniedwith embellishments of the Mother of Christ, Saints and Martyrs, &c. : asthus: "_Sophia Regina Vngariæ, Regina Bohemiæ_"--"_Herman LantgrauiusTuringie, Rex Vngariæ, Rex Bohemiæ_. " In the Litany, we read (of the_latter_) in the address to the Deity, "_Vt famulu tuu_ HERMANNV_in tua misericordia confidente, confortare et regere dignter:_" sothat there is no doubt about the age of the MS. In the representations ofthe episcopal dresses, the tops of the mitres are depressed--anotherconfirmation of the date of the book. 

The initial letters, and especially the B before the Psalms, are at onceelegant and elaborate. Among the subjects described, the _Descent intoHell_, or rather the Place of Torment, is singularly striking andextraordinary. The text of the MS. Is written in a large bold gothicletter. This volume has been recently bound in red morocco, and cruelly cutin the binding. 

Of course, here are some specimens of illuminated _Hours_, both inmanuscript and print. In the former, I must make you acquainted with atruly beautiful volume; upon the fly leaf of which we read as follows: "I 3F, RT, lo _Fortitudo Eius Rhodum tenuit Amadeus Graff^{9} Sauoia_. " Below, "_Biblioth: Sem: Mergenth_:" then, a long German note, of which Iunderstood not one word, and as M. Le Bret was not near me, I could notobtain the solution of it. But although I do not understand one word ofthis note, I do understand that this is one of the very prettiest, and mostsingularly illuminated Missals, which any library can possess: broadmargins: vellum, white as snow in colour, and soft as that of Venice intouch! The text is written in a tall, close, gothic character--between, asI should conceive, the years 1460 and 1480. The _drolleries_ aredelightfully introduced and executed. The initial letters are large andsingular; the subject being executed within compartments of gothicarchitecture. The figures, of which these subjects are composed, are verysmall; generally darkly shaded, and highly relieved. They are numerous. Ofthese initial letters, the fifth to the ninth, inclusively, are striking:the sixth being the most curious, and the ninth the most elaborate. Thebinding of this volume seems to be of the sixteenth century. This is as itshould be. 

But, more precious than either, or than both, or than three times as manyof the preceding illuminated volumes--in the estimation of our friend * * *would be a MS. Of which the title runs thus: "_Libri Duo de Vita_ S. WILLIBROORDI _Archiepiscopi autore humili de vita_ ALCUINI _cum prefat. AdBeonradum Archiepiscopum. Liber secundus metrice scriptus est_. "[17] Thenan old inscription, thus: "_Althwinus de vita Willibrordi Epi_. " There canbe no doubt of this MS. Being at least as old as the eleventh century. 

The PRINTED BOOKS--at least the account of such as seemed to demand a moreparticular examination, will not occupy a very great share of yourattention. I will begin with a pretty little VELLUM COPY of the well-known_Hortulus Animæ_, of the date of 1498, in 12mo. , printed by _WilhelmusSchaffener de Ropperswiler, _ at _Strasbourg_. The vellum is excellent; andthe wood cuts, rather plentifully sprinkled through the volume, happenfortunately to be well-coloured. This copy appears to have come from the"_Weingarth Monastery"_, with the date of 1617 upon it--as that of itshaving been then purchased for the monastery. It is in its original woodenbinding: wanting repair. Here are a few _Roman Classics_, which are morechoice than those in the Public Library: as _Reisinger's Suetonius_, in4to. But cropt, and half bound in red morocco, with yellow sprinkled edgesto the leaves--a woful specimen of the general style of binding in thislibrary. _Lucretius_, 1486: _Manilius_, 1474: both in one volume, bound inwood--and sound and desirable copies. _Eutropius_, 1471; by Laver; a sound, desirable copy, in genuine condition. Of _Bibles_, here is the Greek Aldinefolio of 1518, in frightful half binding, cropt to the quick: also anHungarian impression of the two Books of Samuel and of Kings, of 1565, infolio--beginning: AZ KET SAMVEL: colophon: _Debreczenbe_, &c. MDLXV: inwretched half binding. The small paper of the _Latin Bibles_ of 1592, 1603. And of _Greek Testaments_ here are the first, second, fourth and fiftheditions of Erasmus; the first, containing both parts, is in one volume, inoriginal boards, or binding; a sound and clean copy: written upon, but notin a _very_ unpicturesque manner. The second edition is but an indifferentcopy. 

The following may be considered _Miscellaneous Articles. _ I will begin withthe earliest. _St. Austin de Singularitate Clericorum_, printed in a smallquarto volume by _Ulric Zel_, in 1467: a good, sound, but cropt copy, alongwith some opuscula of _Gerson_ and _Chrysostom_, also printed by Zel:these, from the Schönthal monastery. At the end of this dull collection ofold theology, are a few ms. Opuscula, and among them one of the _GestaRomanorum:_ I should think of the fourteenth century. The _WurtzburgSynod_, supposed to be printed by Reyser, towards the end of the fifteenthcentury; and of which there is a copy in the Public Library, as well asanother in that of Strasbourg. To the antiquary, this may be a curiousbook. I mention it again, [18] in order to notice the name and seal of"Iohannes Fabri, --clericus Maguntin diocesz publicus imperiali auctoritatenotarius, &c. Scriba iuratus"--which occur at about one fourth part of thework: as I am desirous of knowing whether this man be the same, or relatedto the, printer so called, who published the _Ethics of Cato_ in 1477?--ofwhich book I omitted to mention a copy in the Public Library here. [19]Bound up with this volume is Fyner's edition of _P. Niger contra perfidosIudæos_, 1475, folio. Fyner lived at Eislingen, in the neighbourhood ofthis place, and it is natural to find specimens of his press here. The_Stella Meschiah_ of 1477, is here cruelly cropt, and bound in the usuallybarbarous manner, with a mustard-coloured sprinkling upon the edges of theleaves. _Historie von der Melusina:_ a singular volume, in the Germanlanguage, printed without date, in a thin folio. It is a book perfectly _àla_ Douce; full of whimsical and interesting wood cuts, which I do notremember to have seen in any other ancient volume. From the conclusion ofthe text, it appears to have been composed or finished in 1446, but Isuspect the date of its typographical execution to be that of 1480 at theearliest. 

I looked about sharply for fine, old, mellow-tinted _Alduses:_--but to nopurpose. Yet I must notice a pretty little Aldine _Petrarch_ of 1521, 12mo. Bound with _Sannazarius de partu Virginis_, by the same printer, in 1527, 12mo. : in old stamped binding--but somewhat cropt. The leaves of bothcopies crackle lustily on turning them over. These, also, from theWeingarth monastery. I noticed a beautiful little Petrarch of 1546, 8vo. With the commentary of Velutellus; having a striking device of Neptune inthe frontispiece: but no _membranaceous_ articles, of this character andperiod, came across my survey. 

I cannot, however, take leave of the Royal Library (a collection which Ishould think must contain 15, 000 volumes) without expressing my obligationsfor the unrestricted privilege of examination afforded me by those who hadthe superintendance of it. But I begin to be wearied, and it is growinglate. The account of the "court-levee, " and the winding up of otherStuttgart matters, must be reserved for to-morrow. The watchman has justcommenced his rounds, by announcing, as usual, the hour of _ten_--whichannounce is succeeded by a long (and as I learn _metrical_)exhortation--for the good folks of Stuttgart to take care of their firesand candles. I obey his injunctions; and say good night. 

[1] See vol. Ii. P. 421. 

[2] [Of this PORTRAIT, which may be truly said to enrich the pages of the previous edition of the Tour, a more _liberal_ use has been made than I was prepared to grant. My worthy friends, Messrs. Treuttel, Würtz, and Richter were welcome to its republication; but a _third edition_ of it, by another hand, ought not to have been published without permission. The ORIGINAL of this Portrait has ceased to exist. After a laborious life of fourscore years, the learned Schweighæuser has departed--in the fullest maturity of reputation arising from classical attainments; to which must be added, all the excellences of a mild, affable, christian-like disposition. As a husband, a father, and a friend, none went before him: no one displayed these domestic virtues in a more perfect and more pleasing form. As a Greek Scholar and Commentator, he may be said to rank with Hemsterhusius, Wyttenbach, and Heyne. He was equally the boast of Strasbourg and the glory of his age. Never was profound learning more successfully united with "singleness of heart, " and general simplicity of character. He ought to have a splendid monument (if he have it not already?) among his Fellow Worthies in the church of St. Thomas at Strasbourg. PEACE TO HIS ASHES!]

[3] For the first time, my bill (which I invariably called for, and settled, every day) was presented to me in a printed form, in the _black letter_, within an ornamented border. It was entitled Rechnung von Gottlob Ernst Teichmann, zum Waldhorn in Stuttgart. The printed articles, against which blanks are left, to be filled up according to the quantity and quality of the fare, were these: Fruhstuck, Mittag-Essen, Nacht Essen, Fremder Wein, Ordinarier Wein, Verschiedenes, Logis, Feuerung, Bediente. I must be allowed to add, that the head waiter of the Waldhorn, or _Hunting Horn_, was one of the most respectably looking, and well-mannered, of his species. He spoke French fluently, but with the usual German accent. The master of the inn was coarse and bluff, but bustling and civil. He frequently devoted one of the best rooms in his house to large, roaring, singing, parties--in which he took a decided lead, and kept it up till past midnight. 

[4] [The late Duchess of OLDENBURG. ]

[5] See vol. Ii. P. 356. 

[6] [This Public Library is now pulled down, and another erected on the site of it. ]

[7] In one of these copies is an undoubtedly coeval memorandum in red ink, thus: "_Explicit liber iste Anno domini Millesio quadringentissimo sexagesimosexto_ (1466) _format^{9} arte impssoria p venerabilem viru Johane mentell in argentina_, " &c. I should add, that, previously to the words "_sexagesimosexto_" were those of "_quiquagesimosexto_"--which have been erased by the pen of the Scribe; but not so entirely as to be illegible. I am indebted to M. Le Bret for the information that this Bible by Mentelin is more ancient than the one, without date or place, &c. (see _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. I. P. 42, &c. ) which has been usually considered to be anterior to it. M. Le Bret draws this conclusion from the comparative antiquity of the language of Mentelin's edition. 

[8] This was the _second_ copy, with the same original piece, which I had seen abroad; that in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris being the first. I have omitted to notice this, in my account of that Library, vol. Ii. P. 156-7, &c. 

[9] [Both volumes will be found particularly described in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_, vol. Ii. P. 285-290. ]

[10] Lord Spencer has recently obtained a PERFECT COPY of this most rare edition--by the purchase of the library of the Duke di Cassano, at Naples. See the _Cassano Catalogue_, p. 116. 

[11] A very particular description of this rare edition will be found in the _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. Ii. P. 141. 

[12] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. I. P. Cxcviii. 

[13] See vol. Ii. P. 73. 

[14] See _Ottley's History of Engraving_, vol. I. P. 86; where a fac-simile of this cut is given--which, in the large paper copies, is coloured. 

[15] See vol. Ii. P. 134-5. 

[16] The SFORZIADA: See the Catalogue of his Library, no. 7559. 

[17] The prologue of this metrical life begins thus:

 _Ecce tuis parui uotis uenerande sacerdos Cor quia de vro feruet amore mihi Pontificis magna wilbroodi et psulis almus Recurrens titulis inclyta gesta tuis Sit lux inferior strepitant cum murmure rauco illius egregi^{9} sermo meus meritis_

 This life consists of only 11 leaves, having 23 verses in a full page. It is printed in the _Lect. Antiq. Of Canisius_, vol. Ii. P. 463; and the prose life is printed by _Surius_ and by _Mabillon_. 

[18] Before described in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. IV. P. 508. 

[19] The book in question has the following colophon:

 _Hoc opus exiguum perfecit rite iohannes Fabri: cui seruat lingonis alta lares. Ac uoluit formis ipsum fecisse casellis. M. Cccc. Lxxcii de mense maii_. 

 The _s_ is very singular, being smaller than the other letters, and having a broken effect. This copy, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, is not bound, but in excellent condition. 

LETTER II. 

THE ROYAL PALACE. A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NEGOTIATION. DANNECKER THE SCULPTOR. ENVIRONS OF STUTTGART. 

The morrow is come; and as the morning is too rainy to stir abroad, I sitdown to fulfil the promise of last night. This will be done with thegreater cheerfulness and alacrity, as the evenings have been comparativelycooler, and my slumbers, in consequence, more sound and refreshing. M. LEBRET--must be the first name mentioned upon this occasion. In other words, the negotiation about the _two Virgils_, through the zeal and goodmanagement of that active Head-Librarian, began quickly to assume a mostdecided form; and I received an intimation from Mr. Hamilton, our Chargéd'Affaires, that the King expected to see me upon the subject at the"circle"--last Sunday evening. 

But before you go with me to court, I must make you acquainted with theplace in which the Court is held: in other words, with the ROYAL PALACE ofSTUTTGART. Take away the gilt cushion and crown at the top of it, and thefront façade has really the air of a royal residence. It is built of stone:massive and unpretending in its external decorations, and has two wingsrunning at right angles with the principal front elevation. To my eye, ithad, at first view, and still continues to have, more of a Palace-like lookthan the long but slender structure of the Tuilleries. To the left, onlooking at it--or rather behind the left wing is a large, well-trimmedflower-garden, terminating in walks, and a carriage way. Just in front ofthis garden, before a large bason of water, and fixed upon a sort ofparapet wall--is a very pleasing, colossal group of two femalestatues--_Pomona_ and _Flora_, as I conceive--sculptured by Dannecker. Their forms are made to intertwine very gracefully; and they are cut in acoarse, but hard and pleasingly-tinted, stone. For out-of-door figures, they are much superior to the generality of unmeaning allegorical marblestatues in the gardens of the Thuilleries. 

The interior of the palace has portions, which may be said to verify whatwe have read, in boyish days, of the wonder-working powers of the lamp ofAladdin. Here are porphyry and granite, and rosewood, and satin-wood, porcelaine, and or-molu ornaments, in all their varieties of unsulliedsplendor. A magnificent vestibule, and marble staircase; a concert room; anassembly-room; and chamber of audience: each particularly brilliant andappropriate; while, in the latter, you observe a throne, or chair of state, of antique form, but entirely covered with curious gilt carvings--rich, without being gaudy--and striking without being misplaced. You passon--room after room--from the ceilings of which, lustres of increasingbrilliance depend; but are not disposed to make any halt till you enter asmall apartment with a cupola roof--within a niche of which stands thesmall statue of _Cupid_; with his head inclined, and one hand raised tofeel the supposed-blunted point of a dart which he holds in the other. Thisis called the Cupid-Room, out of compliment to DANNECKER the sculptor ofthe figure, who is much patronised by the Queen. A statue or two by Canova, with a tolerable portion of Gobeleine tapestry, form the principalremaining moveable pieces of furniture. A minuter description may not benecessary: the interiors of all palaces being pretty much alike--if we putpictures and statues out of the question. 

From the Palace, I must now conduct you to the "circle" or DrawingRoom--which I attended. Mr. Hamilton was so obliging as to convey methither. The King paid his respects personally to each lady, and wasfollowed by the Queen. The same order was observed with the circle ofgentlemen. His Majesty was dressed in what seemed to be an English uniform, and wore the star of the Order of the Bath. His figure is perhaps under themiddle size, but compact, well formed, and having a gentlemanly deportment. The Queen was, questionless, the most interesting female in the circle. Toan Englishman, her long and popular residence in England, rendered herdoubly an object of attraction. She was superbly dressed, and yet the wholehad a simple, lady-like, appearance. She wore a magnificent tiara ofdiamonds, and large circular diamond ear rings: but it was her _necklace_, composed of the largest and choicest of the same kind of precious stones, which flashed a radiance on the eyes of the beholder, that could scarcelybe exceeded even in the court-circles of St. Petersburg. Her hair wasquietly and most becomingly dressed; and with a small white fan in herhand, which she occasionally opened and shut, she saluted, and discoursedwith, each visitor, as gracefully and as naturally as if she had beenaccustomed to the ceremony from her earliest youth. Her dark eyes surveyedeach figure, quickly, from head to foot--while ... 

 "_Favours_ to none, to all she _smiles_ extends. "

Among the gentlemen, I observed a young man of a very prepossessing formand manners--having seven orders, or marks of distinction hanging from hisbutton-holes. Every body seemed anxious to exchange a word with him; and hemight be at farthest in his thirtieth year. I could not learn his name, butI learnt that his _character_ was quite in harmony with his _person_: thathe was gay, brave, courteous and polite: that his courage knew no bounds:that he would storm a citadel, traverse a morass, or lead on to a charge, with equal coolness, courage, and intrepidity: that repose and inactionwere painful to him--but that humanity to the unfortunate, and the mostinflexible attachment to relations and friends, formed, equally, distinctive marks of his character. This intelligence quite won my heart infavour of the stranger, then standing and smiling immediately before me;and I rejoiced that the chivalrous race of the _Peterboroughs_ was not yetextinct, but had taken root, and "borne branch and flower, " in the soil ofSuabia. 

When it came to my turn to be addressed, the king at once asked--"if I hadnot been much gratified with the books in the Public Library, andparticularly with two _ancient editions_ of Virgil?" I merely indicated anassent to the truth of this remark, waiting for the conclusion to be drawnfrom the premises. "There has been some mention made to me (resumed hisMajesty) about a proposed exchange on the part of Lord Spencer, for thesetwo ancient editions, which appear to be wanting in his Lordship'smagnificent collection. For my part, I see no objection to the finalarrangement of this business--if it can be settled upon terms satisfactoryto all parties. " This was the very point to which I was so anxious to bringthe conference. I replied, coolly and unhesitatingly, "that it wasprecisely as his Majesty had observed; that his own Collection was strongin _Bibles_, but comparatively weak in Ancient _Classics_: and that adiminution of the _latter_ would not be of material consequence, if, inlieu of it, there could be an increase of the _former_--so as to carry itwell nigh towards perfection; that, in whatever way this exchange waseffected, whether by money, or by books, in the first instance, it woulddoubtless be his Majesty's desire to direct the application of the one orthe other to the completion of his _Theological Collection_. "

The King replied "he saw no objection whatever to the proposedexchange--and left the forms of carrying it into execution with his headlibrarian M. Le Bret. " Having gained my point, it only remained to make mybow. The King then passed on to the remainder of the circle, and wasquickly followed by the Queen. I heard her Majesty distinctly tell GeneralAllan, [20] in the English language, that "she could never forget herreception in England; that the days spent there were among the happiest ofher life, and that she hoped, before she died, again to visit our country. "She even expressed "gratitude for the cordial manner in which she had beenreceived, and, entertained in it. "[21]

The heat had now become almost insupportable; as, for the reason beforeassigned, every window and door was shut. However, this inconvenience, ifit was severe, was luckily of short duration. A little after nine, theirMajesties retired towards the door by which they had entered: and which, asit was reopened, presented, in the background, the attendants waiting toreceive them. The King and Queen then saluted the circle, and retired. Inten minutes we had all retreated, and were breathing the pure air ofheaven. I preferred walking home, and called upon M. Le Bret in my way. Itwas about half past nine only, but that philosophical bibliographer wasabout retiring to rest. He received me, however, with a joyous welcome:re-trimmed his lamp; complimented me upon the success of the negotiation, and told me that I might now depart in peace from Stuttgart--for that "theaffair might be considered as settled. "[22]

I have mentioned to you, more than once, the name of DANNECKER thesculptor. It has been my good fortune to visit him, and to converse withhim much at large, several times. He is one of the most unaffected of theliving Phidias-tribe; resembling much, both in figure and conversation, andmore especially in a pleasing simplicity of manners, our celebrated_Chantry_. Indeed I should call Dannecker, on the score of art as well asof person, rather the Chantry than the _Flaxman_ or _Canova_ of Suabia. Heshewed me every part of his study; and every cast of such originals as hehad executed, or which he had it in contemplation to execute. Of those thathad left him, I was compelled to be satisfied with the plaster of hisfamous ARIADNE, reclining upon the back of a passant leopard, each of thesize of life. The original belongs to a banker at Frankfort, for whom itwas executed for the sum of about one thousand pounds sterling. It must bean exquisite production; for if the _plaster_ be thus interesting what mustbe the effect of the _marble_? Dannecker told me that the most difficultparts of the group, as to detail, were the interior of the leopard's feet, and the foot and retired drapery of the female figure--which has one legtucked under the other. The whole composition has an harmonious, joyouseffect; while health, animation, and beauty breathe in every limb andlineament of Ariadne. 

But it was my good fortune to witness _one_ original of Dannecker'schisel--of transcendent merit. I mean, the colossal head of SCHILLER; whowas the intimate friend, and a townsman of this able sculptor. I neverstood before so expressive a modern countenance. The forehead is high andwide, and the projections, over the eye-brows, are boldly, but finely andgradually, marked. The eye is rather full, but retired. The cheeks areconsiderably shrunk. The mouth is full of expression, and the chin somewhatelongated. The hair flows behind in a broad mass, and ends in a wavy curlupon the shoulders: not very unlike the professional wigs of the Frenchbarristers which I had seen at Paris. Upon the whole, I prefer thislatter--for breadth and harmony--to the eternal conceit of the wig à lagrecque. "It was so (said Dannecker) that Schiller wore his hair; and itwas precisely with this physiognomical expression that he came out to me, dressed en roquelaure, from his inner apartment, when I saw him for thelast time. I thought to myself--on so seeing him--(added the sculptor) thatit is thus that I will chisel your bust in marble. " Dannecker thenrequested me to draw my hand gently over the forehead--and to observe bywhat careful, and almost imperceptible gradations, this boldness of fronthad been accomplished; I listened to every word that he said about theextraordinary character then, as it were, before me, with an earnestnessand pleasure which I can hardly describe; and walked round and round thebust with a gratification approaching to ecstacy. They may say what theyplease--at Rome or at London--but a _finer_ specimen of art, in its veryhighest department, and of its particular kind, the chisel of _no living_Sculptor hath achieved. As a bust, it is perfect. It is the MAN; with allhis MIND in his countenance; without the introduction of any sickly airsand graces, which are frequently the result of a predetermination to treatit--as _Phidias_ or _Praxiteles_ would have treated it! It is worth a hostof such figures as that of Marshal Saxe at Strasbourg. 

"Would any sum induce you to part with it?"--said I, in an under tone, tothe unsuspecting artist ... Bethinking me, at the same time, of offeringsomewhere about 250 louis d'or--"None:" replied Dannecker. "I loved theoriginal too dearly to part with this copy of his countenance, in which Ihave done my utmost to render it worthy of my incomparable friend. " I thinkthe artist said that the Queen had expressed a wish to possess it; but hewas compelled to adhere religiously to his determination of keeping it forhimself. Dannecker shewed me a plaster cast of his intended figure ofCHRIST. It struck me as being of great simplicity of breadth, and majestyof expression; but perhaps the form wanted fulness--and the drapery mightbe a little too sparing. I then saw several other busts, and subjects, which have already escaped my recollection; but I could not but be struckwith the quiet and unaffected manner in which this meritorious artistmentioned the approbation bestowed by CANOVA upon several of hisperformances. He is very much superior indeed to Ohmacht; but comparisonshave long been considered as uncourteous and invidious--and so I will onlyadd, that, if ever Dannecker visits England--which he half threatens todo--he shall be fêted by a Commoner, and patronised by a Duke. Meanwhile, you have here his Autograph for contemplation. 

[Illustration: Autograph of Dannecker]

[20] Afterwards Sir Alexander Allan, Bart. I met him and Captain C * * *, of the Royal Navy, in their way to Inspruck. But Sir Alexander (than whom, I believe a worthier or a braver man never entered the profession of which he was so distinguished an ornament) scarcely survived the excursion two years. 

[21] The Queen of Würtemberg survived the levee, above described, only a few months. Her DEATH was in consequence of over-maternal anxiety about her children, who were ill with the measles. The queen was suddenly called from her bed on a cold night in the month of January to the chamber where her children were seriously indisposed. Forgetful of herself, of the hour, and of the season, she caught a severe cold: a violent erysipelatous affection, terminating in apoplexy, was the fatal result--and SHE, who, but a few short-lived months before, had shone as the brightest star in the hemisphere of her own court;--who was the patroness of art;--and of two or three national schools, building, when I was at Stuttgart, at her own expense--was doomed to become the subject of general lamentation and woe. She was admired, respected, and beloved. It was pleasing, as it was quite natural, to see her (as I had often done) and the King, riding out in the same carriage, or phaeton, without any royal guard; and all ranks of people heartily disposed to pay them the homage of their respect. In a letter from M. Le Bret, of the 8th of June 1819, I learnt that a magnificent chapel, built after the Grecian model, was to contain the monument to be erected to her memory. Her funeral was attended by six hundred students from Tubingen, by torch light. 

[22] For the sake of juxta-position, I will here mention the SEQUEL, as briefly as may be. The "affair" was far from being at that time "settled. " But, on reaching Manheim, about to recross the Rhine, on my return to Paris--I found a long and circumstantial letter from my bibliographical correspondent at Stuttgart, which seemed to bring the matter to a final and desirable issue. "So many thousand francs had been agreed upon--there only wanted a well bound copy of the _Bibliographical Decameron_ to boot:--and the Virgils were to be considered as his Lordship's property. " Mr. Hamilton, our Chargé d'Affaires, had authority to pay the money--and I ... Walked instantly to _Artaria's_--purchased a copy of the work in question, (which happened to be there, in blue morocco binding, ) and desired my valet to get ready to start the next morning, by three or four o'clock, to travel post to Stuttgart: from whence he was not to return _without_ bringing the VIRGILS, in the same carriage which would convey him and the Decameronic volumes. Charles Rohfritsch immediately prepared to set out on his journey. He left Manheim at three in the morning; travelled without intermission to Stuttgart, --perhaps fourscore or ninety miles from Manheim--put up at his old quarters _zum Waldhorn_ (see p. 17, ante. ) waited upon M. Le Bret with a letter, and the morocco tomes--RECEIVED THE VIRGILS--and prepared for his return to Manheim--which place he reached by two on the following morning. I had told him that, at whatever hour he arrived, he was to make his way to my chamber. He did as he was desired. "LES VOILA!"--exclaimed he, on placing the two volumes hastily upon the table. --"Ma foi, Monsieur, c'est ceci une drôle d'affaire; il y a je ne sçai pas combien de lieues que j'ai traversé pour deux anciens livres qui ne valent pas à mes yeux le tiers d'un Napoleon!" I readily forgave him all this saucy heresy--and almost hugged the volumes ... On finding them upon my table. They were my constant travelling companions through France to Calais; and when I shewed the _Adam Virgil_ to M. Van Praet, at Paris--"Enfin (remarked he, as he turned over the broad-margined and loud-crackling leaves) voilà un livre dont j'ai beaucoup entendu parler, mais que je n'ai jamais vu!" These words sounded as sweet melody to mine ears. But I will unfeignedly declare, that the joy which crowned the whole, was, when I delivered _both_ the books ... Into the hands of their present NOBLE OWNER: with whom they will doubtless find their FINAL RESTING PLACE. [Such was my bibliographical history--eleven years ago. Since that period NO copy of EITHER edition has found its way into England. "Terque quaterque beatus!"]

LETTER III. 

DEPARTURE FROM STUTTGART. ULM. AUGSBOURG. THE PICTURE GALLERY AT AUGSBOURG. 

_Augsbourg, Hôtel des Trois Nègres, Aug. 9, 1818. _

MY DEAR FRIEND;

I have indeed been an active, as well as fortunate traveller, since I lastaddressed you; and I sit down to compose rather a long despatch, which, upon the whole, will be probably interesting; and which, moreover, ispenned in one of the noblest hotels in Europe. The more I see of Germany, the more I like it. Behold me, then in _Bavaria_; within one of its mostbeautiful cities, and looking, from my window, upon a street called_Maximilian Street_--which, for picturesque beauty, is exceeded only by theHigh-street at Oxford. A noble fountain of bronze figures in the centre ofit, is sending forth its clear and agitated waters into the air--only tofall, in pellucid drops, into a basin of capacious dimensions: again to becarried upwards, and again to descend. 'Tis a magnificent fountain; and Iwish such an one were in the centre of the street above mentioned, or inthat of Waterloo Place. But to proceed with my Journal from Stuttgart. 

I left that capital of the kingdom of Würtemberg about five in theafternoon, accompanied by my excellent friend M. Le Bret, who took a seatin the carriage as far as the boundaries of the city. [23] His dry drollery, and frankness of communication, made me regret that he could not accompanyus--at least as far as the first stage _Plochingen_;--especially as theweather was beautiful, and the road excellent. However, the novelty of eachsurrounding object--(but shall ... I whisper a secret in your ear?--theprobably successful result of the negotiation about the two ancienteditions of Virgil--yet more than each surrounding object) put me inperfect good humour, as we continued to roll pleasantly on towards ourresting-place for the night--either _Göppingen_, or _Geislingen_, --as timeand inclination might serve. The sky was in a fine crimson glow with theapproaching sun-set, which was reflected by a river of clear water, skirtedin parts by poplar and birch, as we changed horses at _Plochingen_. It was, I think, _that_ town, rather than Göppingen, (the next stage) which struckus, en passant, to be singularly curious and picturesque on the score ofantiquity and street scenery. It was with reluctance that I passed throughit in so rapid a manner: but necessity alone was the excuse. 

We slept, and slept comfortably, at _Göppingen_. From thence to_Geislingen_ are sweet views: in part luxuriant and cultivated, and in partbold and romantic. Here, were the humble and neatly-trimmed huts ofcottagers; there, the lofty and castle-crowned domains of the Baron. It wasall pleasing and heart-cheering; while the sky continued in one soft andsilvery tint from the unusual transparency of the day. On entering_Geislingen_, our attention was quickly directed to other, and somewhatextraordinary, objects. In this town, there is a great manufactory ofarticles in _ivory_; and we had hardly stopped to change horses--in otherwords, the postilion had not yet dismounted--ere we were assailed by somehalf dozen ill-clad females, who crawled up the carriage, in alldirections, with baskets of ivory toys in their hands, saluting us withloud screams and tones--which, of course, we understood to mean that theirbaskets might be lightened of their contents. Our valet here became theprincipal medium of explanation. Charles Rohfritsch raised himself up fromhis seat; extended, his hands, elevated his voice, stamped, seized uponone, and caught hold of another, assailant at the same time--threateningthem with the vengeance of the police if they did not instantly desist fromtheir rude assaults. It was indeed high time to be absolute; for Mr. Lewiswas surrounded by two, and I was myself honoured by a visit of three, ofthis gipsy tribe of ivory-venders: who had crawled over the dicky, and upthe hinder wheels, into the body of the carriage. 

There seemed to be no alternative but to purchase _something_. We took twoor three boxes, containing crucifixes, toothpicks, and apple-scoops; andset the best face we could upon this strange adventure. Meanwhile, freshhorses were put to; and the valet joked with the ivory venders--havingdesired the postilion, (as he afterwards informed me) as soon as he wasmounted, to make some bold flourishes with his whip, to stick his spursinto the sides of his horses, and disentangle himself from the surroundingfemale throng as speedily as he could. The postilion did as he wascommanded: and we darted off at almost a full gallop. A steep hill wasbefore us, but the horses continued to keep their first pace, till a touchof humanity made our charioteer relax from his efforts. We had now left thetown of Geislingen behind us, but yet saw the ivory venders pointingtowards the route we had taken. "This has been a strange piece of businessindeed, Sir, " (observed the valet). "These women are a set of mad-caps; butthey are nevertheless women of character. They always act thus: especiallywhen they see that the visitors are English--for they are vastly fond ofyour countrymen!"

We were now within about twenty English miles of ULM. Nothing particularoccurred, either by way of anecdote or of scenery, till within almost theimmediate approach, or descent to that city--the last in the Suabianterritories, and which is separated from Bavaria by the river Danube. Icaught the first glance of that celebrated river (here of comparativelytrifling width) with no ordinary emotions of delight. It recalled to mymemory the battle of _Blenheim_, or of _Hochstedt_; for you know that itwas across this very river, and scarcely a score of miles from Ulm, thatthe victorious MARLBOROUGH chased the flying French and Bavarians--at thebattle just mentioned. At the same moment, almost, I could not fail tocontrast this glorious issue with the miserable surrender of the townbefore me--then filled by a large and well-disciplined army, and commandedby that non-pareil of generals, J. G. MACK!--into the power of Bonaparte... Almost without pulling a trigger on either side--the place itself beingconsidered, at the time, one of the strongest towns in Europe. Thesethings, I say, rushed upon my memory, when, on the immediate descent intoUlm, I caught the first view of the tower of the MINSTER ... Which quicklyput Marlborough, and Mack, and Bonaparte out of my recollection. 

I had never, since quitting the beach at Brighton, beheld such an_English-like_ looking cathedral--as a whole; and particularly the tower. It is broad, bold, and lofty; but, like all edifices, seen from aneighbouring and perhaps loftier height, it loses, at first view, very muchof the loftiness of its character. However, I looked with admiration, andlonged to approach it. This object was accomplished in twenty minutes. Weentered Ulm about two o'clock: drove to an excellent inn (the _WhiteStag_--which I strongly recommend to all fellow-travellers) and ordered ourdinner to be got ready by five; which, as the house was within a stone'scast of the cathedral, gave us every opportunity of visiting it beforehand. The day continued most beautiful: and we sallied forth in highspirits, to gaze at and to admire every object of antiquity which shouldpresent itself. 

You may remember my mentioning, towards the close of my last despatch, thata letter was lying upon the table, directed to one of the Professors of theUniversity, or _gymnase_, of this place. The name of that Professor wasVEESENMEYER; a very respectable, learned, and kind-hearted gentleman. Isought his house (close to the cathedral) the very first thing on quittingthe hotel. The Professor was at home. On receiving my letter, by the handsof a pretty little girl, one of his daughters, M. Veesenmeyer made hisappearance at the top of a short stair case, arrayed in a sort of woollen, quilted jacket, with a green cloth cap on, and a pipe in his mouth--whichlatter seemed to be full as tall as himself. I should think that theProfessor could not be taller than his pipe, which might be somewhere aboutfive feet in length. His figure had an exceedingly droll appearance. Hismode of pronouncing French was somewhat germanized; but I strained everynerve to understand him, as my valet was not with me, and as there wouldhave been no alternative but to have talked Latin. I was desirous of seeingthe library, attached to the cathedral. "Could the Professor facilitatethat object?" "Most willingly--" was his reply--"I will write a note to * *the librarian: carry it to him, and he will shew you the library directly, if he be at home. " I did as he desired me; but found the number of thehouse very difficult to discover--as the houses are numbered, consecutively, throughout the town--down one street and up another: sothat, without knowing the order of the _streets_ through which the numbersrun, it is hardly possible for a stranger to proceed. 

Having sauntered round and round, and returned almost to the very spotwhence I had set out, I at last found the residence of the librarian. --Onbeing admitted, I was introduced to a tall, sharp-visaged, andmelancholy-complexioned gentleman, who seemed to rise six feet from theground on receiving me. He read the Professor's note: but alas! could notspeak one word of French. "Placetne tibi, Domine, sermone latino uti?" Ianswered in the affirmative; but confessed that I was totally out of thehabit of speaking it in England: and besides, that our _mode ofpronunciation_ was very different from that of other countries. The man ofdark vestments and sombre countenance relaxed into a gentle smile, as Iadded the latter part of this remark: and I accompanied him quickly, butsilently, to the library in question. Its situation is surely among themost whimsical in existence. It is placed up one pair of stairs, to theleft of the choir; and you ascend up to it through a gloomy and narrowstone staircase. If I remember rightly, the outward door, connecting withthe stairs, is in the cathedral yard. The library itself is very small; anda print, being a portrait of its Donor, hangs up against theshelves--facing as you enter. I had never seen this print before. It was aninteresting portrait; and had, I think, a date of somewhere about 1584. Thecollection was chiefly theological; yet there were a few old classics, butof very secondary value. The only book that I absolutely coveted, was afolio, somewhat charged with writing in the margins, of which the title andcolophon are as follow:--for I obtained permission to make a memorandum ofthem. "Gutheri Ligurini Poetæ clarissimi diui Frid. Pri Dece librifoeliciter editi: _impssi per industriu & ingeniosu MagistruErhardu Oeglin ciuem augustesem Ano Sesquimillesimo & septimomese Apprilio_" This edition contains M vj, in sixes. The precedingarticle is followed by six leaves, containing supplemental matter. 

I asked my sable attendant, if this book could be parted with--either formoney, or in exchange for other books? he replied, "that that point must besubmitted to the consideration of a chapter: that the library was rarely ornever visited; but that he considered it would not be proper to disturb itsorder, or to destroy its identity, since it was a _sacred legacy_. " I toldhim that he reasoned well; but that, should the chapter change such aresolution, my address would be found at Vienna, poste restante, till the20th of the following month. We parted in terms of formal politeness; beingnow and then a little checked in my discourse, by the reply, on his part, of "Non prorsus intelligo. " I am glad, however, to have seen this secludedcabinet of books; which would have been the very place for the study ofAnthony Wood or Thomas Hearne. It had quite an air of monastic seclusion, and it seemed as if scarcely six persons had trod the floor, or six volumeshad been taken down from the shelves, since the day when the key was firstturned upon the door which encloses the collection. After a few "_salves_, "and one "_vale_, " I returned to the White Stag. 

The CATHEDRAL of ULM is doubtless among the most respectable of those uponthe continent. It is large and wide, and of a massive and imposing style ofarchitecture. The buttresses are bold, and very much after the Englishfashion. The tower is the chief exterior beauty. Before we mounted it, webegged the guide, who attended us, to conduct us all over the interior. This interior is very noble: and even superior, as a piece of architecture, to that of Strasbourg. I should think it even longer and wider--for thetruth is, that the tower of _Strasbourg_ Cathedral is as much too _tall_, as that of _Ulm_ cathedral is too _short_, for its nave and choir. Not verylong ago, they had covered the interior by a white wash; and thus themellow tint of probably about five centuries--in a spot where there are fewimmediately surrounding houses--and in a town of which the manufactoriesand population are comparatively small--the _latter_ about 14, 000--thus, Isay, the mellow tint of these five centuries (for I suppose the cathedralto have been finished about the year 1320) has been cruelly changed for thestaring and chilling effects of whiting. 

The choir is interesting in a high degree. At the extremity of it, is analtar--indicative of the Lutheran form of worship[24] being carried onwithin the church--upon which are oil paintings upon wood, emblazoned withgilt backgrounds--of the time of _Hans Burgmair_, and of others at therevival of the art of painting in Germany. These pictures turn upon hinges, so as to shut up, or be thrown open; and are in the highest state ofpreservation. Their subjects are entirely scriptural; and perhaps old _JohnHolbein_, the father of the famous Hans Holbein, might have had a share insome of them. Perhaps they may come down to the time of _Lucas Cranach_. Whenever, or by whomsoever executed, this series of paintings, upon thehigh altar of the cathedral of Ulm, cannot be viewed without considerablesatisfaction. They were the first choice specimens of early art which I hadseen on this side of the Rhine; and I of course contemplated them with thehungry eye of an antiquary. 

After a careful survey of the interior, the whole of which had quite theair of English cleanliness and order, we prepared to mount the famoustower. Our valet, Rohfritsch, led the way; counting the steps as hemounted, and finding them to be about three hundred and seventy-eight innumber. He was succeeded by the guide. Mr. Lewis and myself followed in amore leisurely manner; peeping through the interstices which presentedthemselves in the open fretwork of the ornaments, and finding, as wecontinued to ascend, that the inhabitants and dwelling houses of Ulmdiminished gradually in size. At length we gained the summit, which issurrounded by a parapet wall of some three or four feet in height. Wepaused a minute, to recover our breath, and to look at the prospect whichsurrounded us. The town, at our feet, looked like the metropolis of Laputa. Yet the high ground, by which we had descended into the town--and uponwhich Bonaparte's army was formerly encamped--seemed to be more lofty thanthe spot whereon we stood. On the opposite side flowed the _Danube_: notbroad, nor, as I learnt very deep; but rapid, and in a serpentinedirection. The river here begins to be navigable for larger boats; butthere is little appearance of bustle or business upon the quays. Few or nowhite sails, floating down the stream, catch the morning or the eveningsun-beam: no grove of masts: no shouts of mariners: no commercial rivalry. But what then? Close to the very spot where we stood, our attention wasdirected to a circumstance infinitely more interesting, to the whimsicalfancy of an Antiquary, than a whole forest of masts. What might this be?Listen. 

"Do you observe, here, gentlemen?" said the guide--pointing to the copingof the parapet wall, where the stone is a little rubbed, "I do"--(repliedI) "What may this mean?" "Look below, Sir, (resumed he) how fearfully deepit is. You would not like to tumble down from hence?" This remark couldadmit but of one answer--in the _negative_; yet the man seemed to bepreparing himself to announce some marvellous fact, and I continued mute. "Mark well, gentlemen; (continued he) it was here, on this identical spot, that our famous EMPEROR MAXIMILIAN stood upon one leg, and turned himselfquite round, to the astonishment and trepidation of his attendants! He wasa man of great bravery, and this was one of his pranks to shew his courage. This story, gentlemen, has descended to us for three centuries; and notlong ago the example of the Emperor was attempted to be imitated by twoofficers, --one of whom failed, and the other succeeded. The first lost hisbalance, and was precipitated to the earth--dying the very instant hetouched the ground; the second succeeded, and declared himself, inconsequence, MAXIMILIAN the SECOND!" I should tell you, however, that theseattempts were not made on the same day. The officers were Austrian. 

The room in the middle of the platform, and surmounted by a small spiredoes not appear to be used for any particular purpose. Having satisfied ourcuriosity, and in particular stretched our eyes "as far (to borrow Caxton'slanguage) as we well might"--in the direction of _Hochstedt_--we descended, extremely gratified; and sought the hotel and our dinner. Upon the whole, the cathedral of Ulm is a noble ecclesiastical edifice: uniting simplicityand purity with massiveness of composition. Few cathedrals are more uniformin the style of their architecture. It seems to be, to borrow technicallanguage, all of a piece. Near it, forming the foreground of the Munichprint, are a chapel and a house surrounded by trees. The chapel is verysmall, and, as I learnt, not used for religious purposes. The house (soProfessor Veesenmeyer informed me) is supposed to have been the residenceand offices of business of JOHN ZEINER, the well known _printer_, whocommenced his typographical labours about the year 1470, [25] and whouniformly printed at Ulm; while his brother GUNTHER as uniformly exercisedhis art in the city whence I am now addressing you. They were both nativesof _Reutlingen_; a town of some note between Tubingen and Ulm. 

Let no man, from henceforth, assert that all culinary refinement ceaseswhen you cross the Rhine; at least, let him not do so till he has tastedthe raspberry-flavoured soufflet of the _White Stag of Ulm_. It came on thetable like unto a mountain of cream and eggs, spreading its extremities tothe very confines of the dish; but, when touched by the magic-workingspoon, it collapsed, and concentrated into a dish of moderate and seemlydimensions. In other words, this very soufflet--considered by some as the_crux_ of refined cookery--was an exemplification of all the essentialrequisites of the culinary art: but without the _cotelette_, it would nothave satisfied appetites which had been sharpened by the air of the summitof the tower of the cathedral. The inn itself is both comfortable andspacious. We dined at one corner of a ball-room, upon the first floor, looking upon a very pleasant garden. After dinner, I hastened to pay myrespects to Professor Veesenmeyer, according to appointment. I found him, where all Professors rejoice to be found, in the centre of his library. Hehad doffed the first dress in which I had seen him; and the long pipe wasreposing horizontally upon a table covered with green baize. We began abibliographical conversation immediately; and he shewed me, with theexultation of a man who is conscious of possessing treasures for which few, comparatively, have any relish--his _early printed_ volumes, upon the lowershelf of his collection. 

Evening was coming on, and the daylight began to be treacherous for acritical examination into the condition of old volumes. The Professor toldme he would send me a note, the next morning, of what further he possessedin the department of early printing, [26] and begged, in the mean time, thathe might take a walk with me in the town. I accepted his friendly offerwillingly, and we strolled about together. There is nothing veryinteresting, on the score of antiquities, except it be the _Rath Haus_, orTown Hall; of which the greater part may be, within a century, as old asthe Cathedral. [27]

On the following morning I left Ulm, well pleased to have visited the city;and, had the time allowed, much disposed to spend another twenty-four hourswithin its walls. But I had not quitted my bed (and it was between six andseven o'clock in the morning) before my good friend the Professor wasannounced: and in half a second was standing at the foot of it. He pulledoff his green cloth cap, in which I had first seen him--and I pulled off mynight cap, to return his salutation--raising myself in bed. He apologisedfor such an early intrusion, but said "the duties of his situation led himto be an early riser; and that, at seven, his business of instructing youthwas to begin. " I thanked him heartily for his polite attentions--littleexpecting the honour of so early a visit. He then assumed a graverexpression of countenance, and a deeper tone of voice; and added, in theLatin language--"May it please Providence, worthy Sir, to restore yousafely, (after you shall have examined the treasures in the imperiallibrary of Vienna) to your wife and family. It will always gratify me tohear of your welfare. " The Professor then bowed: shut the door quickly, andI saw him no more. I mention this little anecdote, merely to give you anidea of the extreme simplicity, and friendliness of disposition, (which Ihave already observed in more than this one instance) of the Germancharacter. 

The day of my departure was market-day at Ulm. Having ordered the horses atten o'clock, I took a stroll in the market-place, and saw the severalsights which are exhibited on such occasions. Poultry, meat, vegetables, butter, eggs, and--about three stalls of modern books. These books were, necessarily, almost wholly, published in the German language; but as I amfond of reading the popular manuals of instruction of everycountry--whether these instructions be moral, historical, or facetious--Ipurchased a couple of copies of the _Almanac Historique nommé Le_ _MessagerBoiteux_, &c: a quarto publication, printed in the sorriest chap-bookmanner, at Colmar, and of which the fictitious name of _Antoine Souci, Astronome et Hist. _ stands in the title-page as the author. A wood-cut ofan old fellow with a wooden leg, and a letter in his right hand, isintended to grace this title-page. "Do you believe (said I to the youngwoman, who sold me the book, and who could luckily stammer forth a fewwords of French) what the author of this work says?" "Yes, Sir, I believeeven _more_ than what he says--" was the instant reply of the credulousvender of the tome. Every body around seemed to be in good health and goodspirits; and a more cheerful opening of a market-day could not have beenwitnessed. Perhaps, to a stranger, there is no sight which makes him moresolicitous to become acquainted with new faces, in a new country, than sucha scene as this. All was hilarity and good humour: while, above, was a skyas bright and blue as ever was introduced into an illuminated copy of thedevotional volumes printed by the father of the ULM PRESS; to wit, _JohnZeiner of Reutlingen_. 

We crossed the Danube a little after ten o'clock, and entered theterritories of the King of BAVARIA. Fresh liveries to the postilion--lightblue, with white facings--a horn slung across the shoulders, to which thepostilion applied his lips to blow a merry blast[28]all animated us: as, upon paying the tax at the barriers, we sprung forward at a sharp trottowards _Augsbourg_. The morning continued fine, but the country was ratherflat; which enabled us, however, as we turned a frequent look behind, tokeep the tower of the cathedral of Ulm in view even for some half dozenmiles. The distance before us now became a little more hilly: and we beganto have the first glimpse of those _forests of firs_ which aboundthroughout Bavaria. They seem at times interminable. Meanwhile, thechurches, thinly scattered here and there; had a sort of mosque or globularshaped summit, crowned by a short and slender spire; while the villagesappeared very humble, but with few or no beggars assailing you uponchanging horses. We had scarcely reached _Günzbourg_, the first stage, andabout fourteen miles from Ulm, when we obtained a glimpse of what appearedto be some lofty mountains at the distance of forty or fifty miles. Uponenquiry, I found that they were a part of a chain of mountains connectedwith those in the Tyrol. 

It was about five o'clock when we reached AUGSBOURG; and, on entering it, we could not but be struck with the _painted exteriors_, and elaboratestyle of architecture, of the houses. We noticed, with surprise not whollydivested of admiration, shepherds and shepherdesses, heroes and heroines, piazzas, palaces, cascades, and fountains--in colours rather gay thanappropriate--depicted upon the exterior walls:--and it seemed as if theaccidents of weather and of time had rarely visited these decorations. Allwas fresh, and gay, and imposing. But a word about our Inn, (_The ThreeMoors_) before I take you out of doors. It is very large; and, what isbetter, the owner of it is very civil. Your carriage drives into a coveredgate way or vestibule, from whence the different stair-cases, or principaldoors, lead to the several divisions of the house. The front of the houseis rich and elegant. On admiring it, the waiter observed--"Yes, Sir, thisfront is worthy of the reputation which the _Hôtel of the Three Moors_possesses throughout Europe. " I admitted it was most respectable. Our bedrooms are superb--though, by preference, I always chose the upper suit ofapartments. The _caffé_ for dining, below, is large and commodious; and Ihad hardly bespoke my first dinner, when the head-waiter put the_travelling book_ into my hands: that is, a book, or _album_, in which thenames and qualities of all the guests at that inn, from all parts ofEurope, are duly registered. I saw the names of several of my countrymenwhom I well knew; and inscribed my own name, and that of my companion, withthe simplest adjuncts that could be devised. In doing so, I acted onlyaccording to precedent. But the boast and glory of this Inn is its GALLERYOF PICTURES: for sale. The great ball-room, together with sundry corridoresand cabinets adjoining, are full of these pictures; and, what renders theview of them more delectable, is, the _Catalogue_:--printed in the _Englishlanguage_, and of which a German is the reputed author. 

My attention, upon first running over these pictures was, unluckily, muchdivided between them and the vehicle of their description. If I turned tothe number, and to the description in the printed catalogue, the languageof the latter was frequently so whimsical that I could not refrain fromdownright laughter. [29] However, the substance must not be neglected forthe shadow; and it is right that you should know, in case you put yourtravelling scheme of visiting this country, next year, into execution, thatthe following observations may not be wholly without their use in directingyour choice--as well as attention--should you be disposed to purchase. Hereis _said_ to be a portrait of _Arcolano Armafrodita_, a famous physician atRome in the XVth century, by _Leonardo da Vinci_. Believe neither the onenor the other. There are some _Albert Durers_; one of the _Trinity, _ of thedate of 1523, and another of the _Doctors of the Church_ dated 1494: thelatter good, and a choice picture of the early time of the master. Aportrait of an old man, kit-cat, _supposed_ by _Murillo_. Two ancientpictures by _Holbein_ (that is, the _Father_ of Hans Holbein) of the_Fugger family_--containing nine figures, portraits, of the size of life:dated 1517 and deserving of notice. An old woman veiled, half-length, by_J. Levens_: very good. Here are two _Lucas Cranachs_, which I should liketo purchase; but am fearful of dipping too deeply into Madame Francs'ssupplemental supply. One is a supposed portrait (it is a mere supposition)of _Erasmus_ and his mistress; the other is an old man conversing with agirl. As specimens of colouring, they are fine--for the master; but Isuspect they have had a few retouches. Here is what the catalogue calls "A_fuddling-bout. Beautyful small piece, by Rembrand_:" nº. 188: but it isany thing but a beautiful piece, and any thing but a Rembrandt. 

There is a small picture, said to be by _Marchessini_, of "Christ draggedto the place of execution. " It is full of spirit, and I think quiteoriginal. At first I mistook it for a _Rubens_; and if Marchessini, and notOtho Venius, had been his master, this mistake would have been natural. Ithink I could cull a nosegay of a few vivid and fragrant flowers, from thisgraphic garden of plants of all colours and qualities. But I shrewdlysuspect that they are in general the off-scourings of public or privatecollections; and that a thick coat of varnish and a broad gilt frame willoften lead the unwary astray. 

While I am upon the subject of _paintings_, I must take you with me to theTOWN HALL ... A noble structure; of which the audience room, up one pair ofstairs--and in which Charles V. Received the deputies respecting the famous_Augsbourg Confession of Faith_, in 1530, --is, to my taste, the mostperfectly handsome room which I have ever seen. The wainscot or sides arewalnut and chestnut wood, relieved by beautiful gilt ornaments. The ceilingis also of the same materials; but marked and diversified by divisions ofsquare, or parallelogram, or oval, or circular, forms. This ceiling is verylofty, for the size of the room: but it is a fault (if it be one) on theright side. I should say, that this were a chamber worthy of the cause--andof the actors--in the scene alluded to. It is thoroughly imperial: grave, grand, and yet not preposterously gorgeous. 

Above this magnificent room is the PICTURE GALLERY. It is said to receivethe overflowings of the gallery of Munich--which, in turn, has beenindebted to the well known gallery of Dusseldorf for its principaltreasures. However, as a receiver of cast-off apparel, this collection mustbe necessarily inferior to the parent wardrobe, yet I would stronglyrecommend every English Antiquary--at all desirous of increasing hisknowledge, and improving his taste, in early German art--to pay dueattention to this singular collection of pictures at Augsbourg. He will seehere, for the first time in Bavaria--in his route from the capital ofFrance--productions, quite new in character, and not less striking fromboldness of conception and vigor of execution. Augsbourg may now beconsidered the soil of the _Elder Holbein_, _Hans Burgmair_, _Amberger_, and _Lucas Cranach_. Here are things, of which Richardson never dreamt, andwhich Walpole would have parted with three fourths of his graphicembellishments at Strawberry Hill to have possessed. Here are alsoportraits of some of the early Reformers, of which an excellent Divine (inthe vicinity of Hackney church) would leap with transport to possesscopies, wherewith to adorn his admirable collection of Englishecclesiastical history. Here, too, are capricious drolleries, full ofcharacter and singularity--throwing light upon past manners andcustoms--which the excellent PROSPERO would view with ... An almostcoveting eye!

But to be more particular; and to begin with the notice of a curiousperformance of John, or the ELDER HOLBEIN. It is divided, like many of thepictures of the old German masters, into three compartments. The _Nativity_occupies one; the _Assumption_ another: and the decapitation of _St. Dorothy_ the third. In the Assumption, the Trinity, composed of three malefigures, is introduced as sanctifying the Virgin--who is in front. Belowthis group is the church of "_Maria Maior_, " having two bells in thesteeple; upon one of which, in the act of being tolled, is the date of1499: upon the other, in a quiescent state, are the words HANS HOLBEIN:with the initial L. B. To the right. To the left, at bottom, is theinscription HIE LITBE GRA; to the right, below, on a piece of stone, theinitial H. The third piece in this composition, the death of St. Dorothy, exhibits a sweetly-drawn and sweetly coloured countenance in that of thedevoted Saint. She is kneeling, about to receive the uplifted sword of theexecutioner; evincing a firmness, yet meekness of resignation, not unworthythe virgin martyrs of the pencils of Raphael and Guido. Her hair is long, and flows gracefully behind. A little boy, habited in a whimsical jacket, offers her a vase filled with flowers. The whole picture is rich and mellowin its colouring, and in a fine state of preservation. 

Another piece, by the same uncommon artist, may be also worth particularnotice. It is a miscellaneous performance, divided into three compartments;having, in the upper part of the first, a representation of the Agony inthe Garden of Gethsemane. Our Saviour is placed in a very singularsituation, within a rock. The comforting angel appears just above him. Below is the Pope, in full costume, in the character of St. Peter, with akey in his left hand, and in his right a scroll; upon the latter of whichis this inscription: "_Auctoritate aplica dimitto vob omiapcta_"[30] The date of 1501 is below. This picture, which is exceedinglygorgeous, is in the purest state of preservation. Another compartmentrepresents our Saviour and the Virgin surrounded by male and femalemartyrs. One man, with his arms over his head, and a nail driven throughthem into his skull, is very striking: the head being well drawn andcoloured. To the left, are the Pope, Bishops, and a Cardinal between St. Christopher and a man in armour. One Bishop (_St. Erasmus_) carries a spitin his left hand, designating the instrument whereby he suffered death. This large picture is also in a very fine state of preservation. 

A third display of the graphic talents of the Elder Holbein (as I shouldconceive, rather than of the son, when young--as is generally believed)claims especial notice. This picture is a representation of the leadingevents in the _Life of St. Paul_; having, like most other performances ofthis period, many episodes or digressions. It is also divided into threecompartments; of which the central one, as usual, is the most elevated. Thefirst compartment, to the left, represents the conversion of St. Paulabove, with his baptism by Ananias below. In this baptism is represented aglory round the head of St. Paul--such as we see round that of Christ. Before them stands a boy, with a lighted torch and a box: an old man is tothe left, and another, with two children, to the right. This second oldman's head is rather fine. To the left of the baptism, a little above, isSt. Paul in prison, giving a letter to a messenger. The whole piece is, throughout, richly and warmly coloured, and in a fine state ofpreservation. The central piece has, above, ["_Basilica Sancti Pauli_. "]Christ crowned with thorns. The man, putting a sceptre in his hand, is mostsingularly and not inelegantly clothed; but one or two of the figures ofthe men behind, occupied in platting the crown of thorns, have a mostextraordinary and original cast of countenance and of head-dress. Theyappear ferocious, but almost ludicrous, from bordering upon caricature;while the leaves; and bullrush-like ornaments of their head-dress, renderthem very singularly striking personages. To the right, Joseph of Arimatheais bargaining for the body of Jesus; the finger of one hand placed againstthe thumb of the other telling the nature of the action admirably. 

Below this subject, in the centre, is St. Paul preaching at Athens. One ofthe figures, listening to the orator with folded arms, might have given thehint to Raphael for one of _his_ figures, in a similar attitude, introducedinto the famous cartoon of the same subject. Before St. Paul, below, awoman is sitting--looking at him, and having her back turned to thespectator. The head-dress of this figure, which is white, is notungraceful. I made a rude copy of it; but if I had even coloured like * * *I could not have done justice to the neck and back; which exhibited a toneof colour that seemed to unite all the warmth of Titian with all thefreshness of Rubens. In the foreground of this picture, to the right, St. Peter and St. Paul are being led to execution. There is great vigour ofconception and of touch (perhaps bordering somewhat upon caricature) in thecountenances of the soldiers. One of them is shewing his teeth, with asavage grin, whilst he is goading on the Apostles to execution. Theheadless trunk of St. Paul, with blood spouting from it, lies to the left;the executioner, having performed his office, is deliberately sheathing hissword. The colouring throughout may be considered perfect. We now come tothe remaining, or third compartment. This exhibits the interment of St. Paul. There is a procession from a church, led on by the Pope, who carriesthe head of the Apostle upon a napkin. The same head is also represented asplaced between the feet of the corpse, in the foreground. There is a cleverfigure, in profile, of a man kneeling in front: the colouring of the robeof a Bishop, also kneeling, is rich and harmonious. A man, with a gloryround his head, is let down in a basket, as from prison, to witness thefuneral. But let me not forget to notice the head of an old man, in theprocession, (coming out of the church-door) and turning towards theleft:--it is admirably well touched. 

I shall now give you a notion of the talents of HANS BURGMAIR--a painter, as well as engraver, of first-rate abilities. I will begin with what Iconsider to be the most elaborate specimen of his pencil in this mostcurious gallery of pictures. The subject is serious, but miscellaneous: andof the date of 1501. It consists of Patriarchs, Evangelists, Martyrs, maleand female, and Popes, &c. The Virgin and Christ are sitting, at top, indistinguished majesty. The countenances of the whole group are full ofnature and expression: that of the Virgin is doubtless painted after aliving subject. It exhibits the prevailing or favourite _mouth_ of theartist; which happens however to be generally somewhat awry. The cherub, holding up a white crown, and thrusting his arm as it were towards the spotwhere it is to be fixed, is prettily conceived. Upon the whole, thispicture contains some very fine heads. 

Another picture of Hans Burgmair, worth especial attention, is dated 1504. It is, as usual, divided, into three compartments; and the subject is thatof _St. Ursula and her Virgins_. Although of less solid merit than thepreceding, it is infinitely more striking; being most singularly conceivedand executed. The gold ornaments, and gold grounds, are throughout managedwith a freedom and minuteness of touch which distinguish many of the mostbeautiful early missals. In the first compartment, or division, are a groupof women round "_Sibila Ancyra Phrygiæ_. " The dresses of these women, especially about the breast, are very curious. Some of their head dressesare not less striking, but more simple; having what may be called a cushionof gold at the back of them. In the second compartment is the_Crucifixion_--in the warmest and richest (says my memorandum, taken on thevery spot) glow of colour. Beneath, there is a singular composition. Beforea church, is a group of pilgrims with staves and hats on; a man, not in theattire of a pilgrim, heads them; he is habited in green, and pointsbackwards towards a woman, who is retreating; a book is in his left hand. The attitudes of both are very natural. Further to the right, a man isretreating--going through an archway--with a badge (a pair of cross keys)upon his shoulder. The retreating woman has also the same badge. To theleft, another pilgrim is sitting, apparently to watch; further up, is ahouse, towards which all the pilgrims seem to be directing their steps toenter. A man and woman come out of this house to receive them with openarms. The third division continues the History of St. Ursula. Her attire, sitting in a vessel by the side of her husband Gutherus, is sumptuous inthe extreme. I would have given four ducats for a copy of it, but Mr. Lewiswas otherwise engaged. A Pope and Cardinal are to the right of St. Ursula:the whole being in a perfect blaze of splendour. Below, they are draggingthe female Saint and her virgin companions on shore, for the purpose ofdecapitation. An attitude of horror, in one of the virgins, is verystriking. 

There is a small picture by Burgmair of the _Virgin and Christ_, in themanner of the Italian masters, which is a palpable failure. The infant iswretchedly drawn, although, in other respects, prettily and tenderlycoloured. Burgmair was out of his element in subjects of dignity, or ratherof _repose_. Where the workings of the mind were not to be depicted bystrong demarcations of countenance, he was generally unsuccessful. Hence itis, that in a subject of the greatest repose, but at the same timeintensity of feeling--the _Crucifixion_--this master, in a picture here, ofthe date of 1519, has really outdone himself: and perhaps is not to beexcelled by _any_ artist of the same period. I could not take my eyes fromthis picture--of which the figures are about half the size of life. It isthus treated. Our Saviour has just breathed his dying exclamation--"it isfinished. " His head hangs down--cold, pale death being imprinted upon everyfeature of the face. It is perhaps a painfully-deadly countenance: copied, I make no doubt, from nature. St. Anne, Mary, and St. John, are the onlyattendants. The former is quite absorbed in agony--her head is lowlyinclined, and her arms are above it. (The pattern of the drapery is rathersingular). Mary exhibits a more quiet expression: her resignation is calmand fixed, while her heart seems to be broken. But it is in the figure andcountenance of _St. John_, that the artist has reached all that an artist_could_ reach in a delineation of the same subject. The beloved disciplesimply looks upwards--upon the breathless corpse of his crucified master. In that look, the world appears to be for ever forgotten. His arms andhands are locked together, in the agony of his soul. There is the sublimestabstraction from every artificial and frivolous accompaniment--in thetreatment of this subject--which you can possibly conceive. The backgroundof the picture is worthy of its nobler parts. There is a sobriety ofcolouring about it which Annibal Caracci would not have disdained to own. Ishould add, that there is a folding compartment on each side of theprincipal subject, which, moving upon hinges, may be turned inwards, andshut the whole from view. Each of these compartments contains one of thetwo thieves who were crucified with Our Saviour. There is a figure of S. Lazarus below one of them, which is very fine for colour and drawing. 

The last, in the series of old pictures by German masters, which I havetime to notice, is an exceedingly curious and valuable one by CHRISTOPHERAMBERGER. It represents _the Adoration of the Magi_. There are throughoutvery successful attempts at reflected light; but what should set thispicture above all price, in my humble estimation, is a portrait--and thefinest which I remember to have seen--of MELANCTHON:--executed when he wasin the vigour of life, and in the full possession of physiognomicalexpression. He is introduced in the stable just over those near the Virgin, who are coming to pay their homage to the infant Christ: and is habited inblack, with a black cap on. Mr. Lewis made the following rough copy of thehead in pencil. To the best of my recollection, there is _no engraving_ ofit--so that you will preserve the enclosed for me, for the purpose ofhaving it executed upon copper, when I reach England. It is a countenancefull of intellectual expression. 

[Illustration]

Of the supposed _Titians_, _Caraccis_, _Guidos_, _Cignanis_, and _PaoloVeroneses_, I will not presume to say one word; because I have great doubtsabout their genuineness, or, at any rate, integrity of condition. I lookedabout for _Albert Durer_, and _Lucas Cranach_, and saw with pleasure theportraits of my old friends _Maximilian I. _ and _Charles V. _ by theformer--and a _Samson and Dalila_ by the latter: but neither, I think, inthe very first rate style of the artist. 

There was a frightful, but expressive and well coloured, head of a Dwarf, or Fool, of which Mr. Lewis took a pencil-copy; but it is not of sufficientimportance to enclose in this despatch. It is the EARLY GERMAN SCHOOL ofArt which is here the grand and almost exclusive feature ofattraction--speaking in an antiquarian point of view. ReÏchard estimatesthe number of these pictures at _twelve hundred_, but I should rather say_seven hundred_. 

I find, however, that it will be impossible to compress all my _Augsbourg_intelligence in one epistle; and so I reserve the remainder for anotheropportunity. 

[23] [Several years have elapsed since I have received a letter from Mons. Le Bret. Is he alive? If he be living, let him be assured of my unalterable and respectful attachment: and that I have unfeigned pleasure in annexing a fac-simile of his AUTOGRAPH--from a letter to me of the date of June 8th 1819: a letter, which I received on the 17th of the same month following--the very day of our _Roxburghe Anniversary Dinner_. Singularly enough, this letter begins in the following strain of bibliographical jocoseness: "_Monsieur, et très reverend Frère de Boocace l'Immortel!_"]

 [Illustration: Signature--f. C. Lebret]

[24] The predominant religion is the Protestant. Indeed I may say that the number of Catholics is exceedingly limited: perhaps, not an eighth part of the population of the town. 

[25] I presume this to be the earliest date which any of his books exhibit. His brother GUNTHER, or GINTHER (for the name is spelt both ways in his colophons) began to print in 1468. Lord Spencer possesses a beautiful copy (which I obtained from the library of St. Peter's Monastery, at Salzbourg) of _Bonaventure's Meditations upon the Life of Christ_, of the date of 1468, printed by G. Zainer, or (Zeiner) at Augsbourg; and considered to be the first effort of his press. 

[26] The note, above mentioned, was written in Latin: the Professor telling me that he preferred that language to the French, as he thought he could write it more grammatically. A _Latin note_ must be rather a curiosity to my readers: which, as it is purely bibliographical, and in other respects highly characteristic of the _bon-hommie_ of the writer, shall receive a place here. After mentioning the books above specified, the Professor goes on thus:

 "Haec paucula e pluribus notare libuit, quæ reliqua temporis angustia ostendere non permisit. Habeo enim alias, quas vocant, editiones principes, e. G. Diogenis Laertii, Bas. 1533-4. Josephi, Bas. 1544. Fol. Jo. Chrysostomi [Greek: _peri pronoias_] 1526-8. Ej. [Greek: peri hierôsunês], ib 1525-8. Aliorum Græcorum et Patrum. Calpurnii et Nemesiani Eclogarum editionem, ab. Do. Alex. Brassicano curatam editionem ad MS. Antiquum factam et Argent. 1519-4. Impressam. Præterea aliquot Aldinas et Juntinas editiones, aliquot a Mich. Vascosano, Paris. Factas, in quibus Thucydidis Libri III. Priores, Paris. 1548. 4. Cujus margini Lectt. Varr. E MSto adscriptæ sunt, non memoratæ in editione Bipontina. Æschylus, ex edit. Franc. Robortelli, Venet. 1552. 8. Idem ex ed. Henr. Stephani, ex offic. Henr. Stephani, 1557. 4. Dionysii Halic. Opera Rhet. Ex. Ed. Rob. Stephani, Par. 1547. Fol. Diodor. Sicul. Ex edit. Henr. Stephani, 1559. Fol. 

 "Pauculos Codd. MSS. E. Gr. Ciceronis de Officiis, Aratoris in Acta App. Fragmenta Liuii et Terentii ostendere tempus non concessit: præter eos habeo aliquot Ciceronis Orationes, Excerpta ex Liuio, duos Historiæ Griseldis, et alios minoris pretii. 

 "Maximam collectionis, Bibliothecam appellare non fas est, meæ partem efficit magnus librorum et libellorum numerus ab Ao. 1500. Usque ad 1550. Editorum a Reformatoribus eorumque aduersariis, qui numerum sex millium superant, in quibus adsunt Serueti de Trinitatis erroribus, eiusdemque Dialogi, Tomi Pasquillorum, Henr. Corn. Agrippæ aliquot opera, Lemnii Epigrammata, aliquot libelli, Lutheri et Melancthonis manu ornati; præterea alia Collectio Documentorum, quorum antiquissimum est ab. A. 1181 et Epistolarum [Greek: _autographôn_], a viris doctis Sæculorum XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. Conscriptarum, in quibus Henr. Steinhoevvelii, Raym. Peraudi, Lutheri, Melancthonis, Zwinglii, Gruteri, Casauboni, Ludolfi, Camerarii, Patris, Rittershusiorum, Piccarti, aliorumque. 

 "Sed nolo longiore enarratione molestus esse, ne vanus esse uidear, a quo vitio nemo me alienior est. Vt divina providentia iter prosperum esse iubeat, est, quod ex animo TIBI, VIR--precatur

 Vlmæ, Aug. MDCCCXVIII. 

 [Illustration: Signature]

 P. S. Et TIBI præsenti, et superiora heri nocte et somno ingruente scribens referre omiseram, esse mihi ex XXII. Libris _ab Academia Veneta, della Fama dicta_, editis XV. Omnes adeo sunt rari, ut vel instructissimæ bibliothecae vix aliquot eorum habeant. Addo _germanicam Sixti Papæ Bullæ datæ 1474 versionem, _ sine dubio Vlmæ eodem anno impressam, et quinque foliis constantem; quam apud me vidisti. "

 The Professor, with the above note, was also so obliging as to present me with a copy of his "_Specimen Historico-Litterarium de Academia Veneta_. Qua Scholarchæ et Vniversum Gymnasii quod Ulmæ floret Consilium Mæcenates Patronos Fautores ejusdem Gymnasii ad Orationem aditialem A. D. XXIV. Febr. A. 1794, habendam officiose atque decenter invitant. "--A Latin brochure of twelve pages: "_Ulmæ ex Officina Wagneri, Patris_. "

[27] [There is an excellent lithographic print of this Rath Haus, which I possess. ]

[28] The postboys in the Duchy of Baden, and in the territories of Würtemberg, have also horns; but I never could get any thing, in the character of a tune, performed by either of them. The moment you enter BAVARIA, you observe a greater elasticity of character. [The ARMS of Bavaria head the first page of this third volume of my Tour. ]

[29] The reader may try the effect of perusing the following articles (taken from this printed catalogue) upon his own muscles. The performance, as I suspect, is by a native of Augsbourg. 

 75. _Portrait of Justus Lipsius by Rembrand_. This head of a singulary verity shews of draughts of a man of science: the treatement of Clothing is most perfectful, the respiring of life, the hands all wunder-worthy to be admired. 208. _A hunting-piece_ of great beauty by Schneyders, the dogs seem to be alife, the wild-fowls, a hare, toils, just as in nature. 341. _Queen Marie Christine of Sweden_ represented in a very noble situation of body and tranquility of mind, of a fine verity and a high effect of clair-obscure. By Rembrand. 376. _Cromwell Olivier_, kit-cat the size of life, a Portrait of the finest carnation, who shews of a perfect likeness and verity, school of Vandyk, perhaps by himself. 398. Portrait of _Charles the first king of England_ (so many Portraits of famous persons by Classick painters will very seldom be found into a privat collection) good picture by Janson van Miereveld. 399. A large and precious battle piece representing a scene of the famous _victory by Blindheim wonen by Marleborough_ over the frensh 1704. We see here the portrait of this hero very resembling, he in a graceful attitude on horsebak, is just to order a movement: a many generals and attendance are arround him. The leaguer, the landscape, the groups, the fighting all with the greatest thruth, there is nothing that does not contribute to embellish this very remarcable picture, painted by a contemporary of the evenement and famous artist in battle pieces, George Philipp Rugendas. 

[30] This was no uncommon representation in the early period of art. "In the church of St. Peter the Younger, at Strasbourg, about the year 1515, there was a kind of large printed placard, with figures on each side of it, suspended near a confessional. On one side, was a naked Christ, removing the fire of purgatory with his cross, and sending all those, who came out of the fire, to the Pope--who was seated in his pontifical robes, having letters of indulgence before him. Before him, also, knelt emperors, kings, cardinals, bishops and others: behind him was a sack of silver, with many captives delivered from Mahometan slavery--thanking the supreme Pontiff, and followed by clergymen paying the ransom money to the Turks. There might also be seen captives, at the bottom of a deep well, shut down by bars of iron; and men, women, and children, making all manner of horrible contortions. "Those, says the chronicler Wencker, "who saw such a piteous sight, wept, and gave money liberally--for the possession of indulgences;--of which the money, raised by the sale, was supposed to be applied towards the ransom of Christian captives. " HERMANN; _Notices Historiques, &c. De Strasbourg_: vol. Ii. P. 434. 

LETTER IV. 

AUGSBOURG. CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. POPULATION. TRADE. THEPUBLIC LIBRARY. 

In ancient times--that is to say, upwards of three centuries ago--the CITYOF AUGSBOURG was probably the most populous and consequential in thekingdom of Bavaria. It was the principal residence of the noblesse, and thegreat mart of commerce. Dukes, barons, nobles of every rank and degree, became domiciled here. A thousand blue and white flags streamed from thetops of castellated mansions, and fluttered along the then almostimpregnable ramparts. It was also not less remarkable for the number andsplendour of its religious establishments. Here was a cathedral, containingtwenty-four chapels; and an abbey or monastery (of _Saints Vlric and Afra_)which had no rival in Bavaria for the size of its structure and the wealthof its possessions. This latter contained a LIBRARY, both of MSS. Andprinted books, of which the recent work of Braun has luckily preserved arecord;[31] and which, but for such record, would have been unknown toafter ages. The treasures of this Library are now entirely dispersed; andMunich, the capital of Bavaria, is the grand repository of them. Augsbourg, in the first instance, was enriched by the dilapidations of numerousmonasteries; especially upon the suppression of the order of the Jesuits. The paintings, books, and relics, of every description, of such monasteriesas were in the immediate vicinity of this city, were taken away to adornthe town hall, churches, capitals and libraries. Of this collection, (ofwhich no inconsiderable portion, both for number and intrinsic value, camefrom the neighbouring monastery of Eichstadt, [32]) there has of course beena pruning; and many flowers have been transplanted to Munich. Yet there are_graphic_ treasures in Augsbourg well deserving the diligent search andcritical examination of the English Antiquary. The church of the_Recollets_ has an organ which is considered among the noblest in Europe:nor must I forget to notice the pulpit, by Eichlen, and some old picturesin the church of St. Anne. 

[Illustration: MONASTERY OF SAINTS ULRIC & AFRA, AUGSBURG. ]

The TOWN HALL in this city, which I mentioned in my last letter, is thoughtto be the finest in Germany. It was yet exceeded, as I learn, by the oldEPISCOPAL PALACE, now dismembered of its ancient dimensions, and dividedinto public offices of government. The principal church, at the end of the_Maximilian Street_, is that which once formed the chief ornament of thefamous Abbey of Sts. Ulric and Afra. [33] I should think that there is noportion of the present building older than the fourteenth century; while itis evident that the upper part of the tower is of the middle of thesixteenth. It has a nearly globular or mosque-shaped termination--so commonin the greater number of the Bavarian churches. It is frequented bycongregations both of the Catholic and Protestant persuasion; and it washighly gratifying to see, as I saw, human beings assembled under the sameroof, equally occupied in their different forms of adoration, in doinghomage to their common Creator. It was also pleasing, the other day, towitness, upon some high religious festival, the crowds of respectable andwell-dressed people (chiefly females) who were issuing from the Church justabove mentioned. It had quite an English Sunday appearance. I have saidthat these females were "well dressed"--I should, rather have said superblydressed: for their head-ornaments--consisting of a cap, depressed at top, but terminating behind in a broad bow--are usually silk, of differentcolours, entirely covered with gold or silver gauze, and spangles. The hairappeared to be carefully combed and plaited, either turned up in a broadmass behind, or terminating in ringlets. I asked the price of one of thesimplest of these caps--worn by the common order of servants--and found itto be little less than a guinea. But they last long, and the owners attachsome importance to them. 

Augsbourg was once distinguished for great learning and piety, as well asfor political consequence; and she boasts of a very splendid_martyrological roll_. [34] At the present day, all is comparatively dulland quiet; but you cannot fail to be struck with the magnificence of manyof the houses, and the air of importance hence given to the streets; whilethe paintings upon the outer walls add much to the splendid effect of thewhole. The population of Augsbourg is supposed to amount to about thirtythousand. In the time of Maximilian, and Charles V. It was, I make nodoubt, twice as numerous. 

Of the TRADE of Augsbourg, I am not enabled to transmit any very flatteringdetails. Silks, stuffs, dimity, (made here for the first time) andjewellery, are the chief commodities; but for the _latter_, connected witharticles of dress, there is rather a brisk demand. The reputation of themanufactory of _Seethaler_, is deserving of mention. In the repository ofthis respectable tradesman you will find varieties of every description:rings, buckles, clasps, bracelets, and images of Saints, of peculiar andinteresting forms. Yet they complain here of stagnation of commerce inalmost every one of its branches: although they admit that the continuanceof peace will bring things comfortably round again. The late war exhaustedboth the population and the treasury of Bavaria. They do a good stroke ofbusiness in the concerns of the bank: and this is considered rather afamous place for the management of letters and bills of exchange. Withrespect to the _latter_, some singular customs and privileges are, Iunderstand, observed here: among others, if a bill become due on a_Wednesday_, eight days of grace are invariably allowed. 

It was the thoughts of the PUBLIC LIBRARY alone that afforded the chiefcomfort to the depressed state of my spirits, from the excessive heat ofthe day. What I might _do_, and at last, what I had _done_, within theprecincts of that same library, was sure to be my greatest solace duringthe evening rambles near the ramparts. The good fortune which attended meat Stuttgart, has followed to this place. Within two yards' length of merepose, at this present instant, the first _Horace_, and the finest copyimaginable of the _Polish Protestant Bible_ of Prince Radzivil--togetherwith a _Latin Bible_ of 1475, by _Frisner and Sensenschmidt_, in twoenormous folio volumes, of an execution of almost unparalleledmagnificence. These are no common stimulants to provoke appetite. Itremains to see whether the banquet itself be composed of proportionablypalatable ingredients. 

On leaving Stuttgart, M. Le Bret told me that Messrs. BEYSCHLAG and MAYwere the principal librarians or curators of the Public Library of thisplace; and that I should find them intelligent and pleasant gentlemen. Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm confirmed this statement. I had a letter fromthe latter, to the Rector Beyschlag, which procured me an immediateentrance into the library. The Rector's coadjutor, Professor May, was alsomost prompt to shew me every rarity. In the countenance of the _latter_, Isaw, what you could not fail to call that of a handsome-looking Englishgentleman. I had never before so vehemently desired to speak the Germanlanguage, or for my new acquaintance to speak my own. However, the Frenchtongue was the happy medium of imparting my ideas and propositions to boththe gentlemen in question; and we had hardly exchanged half a dozensentences, when I opened what I considered (and what eventually turned outto be) a well directed fire upon the ancient volumes by which I was at thetime surrounded. 

The exterior of this library has a monastic form. The building is low andunpretending, having an octangular tower, up the staircase of which youmount to the library. It is situated within a stone's throw of the HighStreet. The interior of the library is not less unpretending than itsexterior: but in a closet, at the hither end, (to the left on entering) arepreserved the more ancient, choice, and curious volumes. In one compartmentof this cabinet-like retreat are contained the _books printed at Augsbourg_in the infancy of the press of this town:[35] a collection, extremelycreditable in itself and in its object; and from which, no consideration, whether of money, or of exchange for other books, would induce the curatorsto withdraw a volume. Of course I speak not of _duplicates_ of the earlyAugsbourg press. Two comparatively long rooms, running in parallel lines, contain the greater part of the volumes of the public library; and amongstthem I witnessed so many genuine, fair, and original conditioned copies ofliterary works, of the early period of the Reformation, that I almostsighed to possess them--except that I knew they could not possibly pay theexpenses of conveyance. 

But for the "well directed fire" above alluded to. It produced a_capitulation_ respecting the following articles--which were selected bymyself from the boudoir just mentioned, and about which neither mystery wasobserved nor secrecy enjoined. In fact, the contract, of the venders was tobe submitted to, and sanctioned by, the supreme magistracy of the place. The Rector Beyschlag hath much of merriment and of wit in his composition. "Now, Sir, "--observed he--"bring those treasures forward which we canspare, and let us afterwards settle about their value: ourselves affixing aprice. " I desired nothing better. In consequence forth came the _first_(quarto) _Horace_, without date or place, fair, sound, and perfect: the_Familiar Epistles of Cicero_ of the date of 1469, by S. And Pannartz, in acondition perfectly unparalleled in every respect; the _Latin Bible_ of_Frisner and Sensenschmidt_ of 1475, in an equally desirable and pristinecondition;[36] the _Polish Protestant Bible_ of 1563, with its firstrough-edged margins and in wooden binding; _St. Jerom's Epistles_, printed_at Parma_, by _A. De Portilia_--most captivating to the eye; with acurious black-letter broadside, in Latin sapphics, pasted in the interiorof the cover; the _History of Bohemia, by Pope Pius II_, of 1475, as freshand crackling as if it had just come from the printer: _Schuzler's editionof the Hexameron of Ambrosius_, 1472: the _Hungarian Chronicle_ of 1485.... "Ohe jam satis est.... " for one bargain, at least, --methinks I hear youremark. 

It may be so; but the measure must be fuller. Accordingly, after havingshot off my great guns, I brought my howitzers into play. Then commenced apleasant and not unprofitable parley respecting little grammatical tracts, devotional manuals, travels, philology, &c. When lo!--up sprung adelightful crop of _Lilies_, _Donatuses_, _Mandevilles_, _Turrecrematas_, _Brandts_, _Matthews of Cracow_--in vellum surcoats, white in colour, firmin substance, and most talkative in turning over their leaves! These weremere _florin_ acquisitions: the preceding were paid for in heavy metal of a_golden_ hue. It is not fair to betray all that took place upon thisCockerian transaction; but there may be no harm in mentioning that my pursewas lightened by upwards of 100 louis d'or. My spirits were lightened inthe same proportion. Neither venders nor vendee grieved at the result. Professor May was most joyous; and although the Rector Beyschlag wassonorous in voice, restless in action, and determined in manner--aboutfixing an alarmingly high price upon the _first Horace_--yet, by degrees, he subsided into a softer note, and into a calmer action--and the Horacebecame _mine_ by a sort of contre-projet proposition. 

Nothing would please Professor May but that I must go home with him, andtry my luck in purchasing a few similar rarities out of his _own_collection. I did so. Madame Francs' supplemental supply became graduallydiminished, and I began to think that if I went on in this manner I shouldnot only never reach _Vienna_, but not even _Munich_. This doubt wasfrankly stated to my book-guardians; and my _ducats_ were immediatelycommuted into _paper_. The result will doubtless prove the honour of thepurchaser; for I have drawn upon a quarter which I had exclusively in viewwhen I made the bargain, and which was never known to fail me. "Surely, "thought I to myself as I returned to my hotel, "Messrs. Beyschlag and Mayare among the most obliging and the most enlightened of their fraternity. "

I returned to the Public Library the next morning, as well to conclude abargain for an exchange of books for certain recent bibliographicalpublications, as to take a list of a few of the more rare, fine, andcurious volumes, in their own collection, which were destined _always_ toretain their situations. 

They have, very properly, the FIRST BOOK PRINTED AT AUGSBOURG: namely, _Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ_, of the date of 1468, printed by _Gunther Zainer_. But one of the most uncommon books examined byme was "_Augustinus Ypponensis Episcopus De Consensu Evangelistarum: Inciuitate Langingen. Impressus. Anno a partu virginis salutifero. Millesimoquadringentesimoseptuagesimotercio. Pridie Idus. Aprilis_. " Thetype is very singular; half gothic and half roman. Of the printer and placeI know nothing; except that I learnt from the librarians that "_Langingen_"is situated about ten leagues from Augsbourg, upon the Danube. I made everyeffort--as well by the _ducat_ as by the _exchange_ method--to prevail uponthem to part with this book; but to no purpose. The blood-freezing reply ofProfessor Veesenmeyer was here repeated--"ça reste, à ... Augsbourg. " Thisbook is unbound. Another volume, of the same equivocal but temptingdescription, was called "_Alcuinus de Trinitate_:--IMPRESSUM INUTTIPURRHA _Monasterio Sacto^{4} marty^{4}, Alexadri et Theodri. Ordiis Scti Bndicti. Anno Sesquimillesimo KL. Septembris_ [Hebrew]. "It is printed in a rude gothic letter; and a kind of fly leaf contains awood-cut portrait of Alcuin. The monastery, where this volume was printed, is now suppressed. A pretty little volume--"as fresh as a daisy" (so saysmy ms. Note taken upon the spot) of the "_Hortulus Rosarium de vallelachrymarum_" (to which a Latin ode by S. Brandt is prefixed), printed byI. De Olpe, in 1499, in the original wooden binding--closed my researchesamong the volumes executed in the fifteenth century. 

As I descended into the sixteenth century, the choice was less, althoughthe variety was doubtless greater. A fine genuine copy of _Geyler'sNavicula Fatuorum_, 1511, 4to. In its original binding, was quickly noteddown, and as quickly _secured_. It was a duplicate, and a ducat made it myown. It is one of the commonest books upon the continent--although there_was_ a time when certain bibliomaniacal madcaps, with us, pushed thebidding for this volume up to the monstrously insane sum of £42:[37]--andall, because it was coated in a Grolier binding! Among the theologicalbooks, of especial curiosity, my guides directed my attention to thefollowing: "_Altera hæc pars Testam^ti. Veteris emendata est iuxta censurasInquisitionis Hispanicæ an^o 79_. Nouu testam. Recusandu omnino est;rejicienduq. Propter plurimos errores qui illius scholiis suntinserti. " This was nothing else than the younger R. Stephen's edition ofthe vulgate Bible of 1556, folio, of which the _New Testament_ wasabsolutely SEALED UP. It had belonged to the library of the Jesuits. Therewas a copy of Erasmus, "_Expurgatus iuxta censuram Academiæ Louaniæ an^o79_. " The name of the printer--which in the preceding Bible had been triedto be _cancelled_--was here uniformly _erased_: but it was doubtless theBasil edition of Erasmus by good old honest Froben and his sons-in-law. [38]

What think you of undoubted proofs of STEREOTYPE PRINTING in the middle ofthe sixteenth century? It is even so. What adds to the whimsical puzzle is, that these pieces of metal, of which the surface is composed of types, fixed and immoveable, are sometimes inserted in wooden blocks, andintroduced as titles, mottoes, or descriptions of the subjects cut upon theblocks. Professor May begged my acceptance of a specimen or two of thetypes, thus fixed upon plates of the same metal. They rarely exceeded theheight of four or five lines of text, by about four or five inches inlength. I carried away, with his permission, two proofs (not long agopulled) of the same block containing this intermixture of stereotype andblock-wood printing. 

I believe I have now told you all that appears worthy of being told, (asfar as my own opportunities of observation have led me) of the CITY OFAUGSBOURG. I shall leave it (to-morrow) with regret; since a longerresidence would, I am persuaded, have introduced me to very pleasantsociety, and made me acquainted with antiquities, of all kinds, welldeserving of _some_ record, however trivial. As it is, I must be contentwith what the shortness of my time, and the more immediately pressingnature of my pursuits, have brought me in contact. A sight of the_Crucifixion by Hans Burgmair_, and the possession of the most genuine copyof the _editio princeps of Horace_, have richly repaid all the toil andexpense of the journey from Stuttgart. The Horace, and the ProtestantPolish Bible of 1563, will be my travelling companions--at least as far as_Munich_--from whence my next despatch will be dated. [39] I hope, indeed, to dine at that renowned city ere "the set of to-morrow's sun. " In the meanwhile, adieu. 

[31] His account of the PRINTED BOOKS in the XVth century, in the monastery above mentioned, was published in 1786, in 2 vols. 4to. That of the MANUSCRIPTS, in the same monastic library, was published in 1791, in 2 vols. Or rather perhaps, six parts, 4to. 

[32] Among the books in this monastery was an uncut copy of the famous edition of the _Meditationes J. De Turrecremata_, of the date of 1467, which is now in the Library of Earl Spencer. In Hartmann Schedel's _Chronicon Norimbergense_, 1493, fol. CLXII, are portraits of the Founders of the Town and Monastery of Eichstadt, or EISTETT; together with a large wood-cut view of the town. This monastery appears to have been situated on a commanding eminence. 

[33] [This Abbey was questionless one of the most celebrated and wealthy in Europe. The antiquarian reader will be pleased with the OPPOSITE PLATE--presenting a bird's eye view of it, in the year 1619--(when it stood in its pristine splendour) from the _Monasteriologia_, attached to the _Imagines Sanctorum_. ]

[34] In the BAVARIA SANCTA of RADERUS, 1615-27, 3 vols. Folio, will be found a succession of martyrological details--adorned by a series of beautiful engravings by _Ralph Sadeler_. The text is in Latin, and the author has apparently availed himself of all the accessible authorities, in manuscript and print, which were likely to give interest and weight to his narrative. But it seems to have been composed rather for the sake of the ENGRAVINGS--which are generally most admirably executed. Great delicacy and truth of drawing, as well as elegance of grouping, are frequently discernible in them; and throughout the whole of the compositions there is much of the air of _Parmegiano's_ pencil; especially in the females. Sadeler makes his monks and abbots quite _gentlemen_ in their figures and deportment; and some of his miracles are described with great singularity and force of effect. 

[35] Such is ZAPF'S work, entitled _Annales Typographiæ Augustanæ_, 1778; 4to. Republished with copious additions in 1786, two volumes, 4to. The text of the latter is (unfortunately, for the unlearned) printed in the German language. 

[36] [This Latin Bible came from the Eichstadt Monastery. ]

[37] _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. Iii. P. 115. 

[38] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. Ii. P. 170. &c. 

[39] [The first Horace, the Cicero Epist. Ad Familiares, 1469, the Latin Bible by Frisner and Sensenschmidt, 1475 and the Polish Bible of 1563, (all so warmly and so justly eulogised in the above pages) have been reposing these last ten years in the library of Earl Spencer: and magnificent and matchless as is that library, it contains no FINER volumes than the four preceding. I conclude this detail by subjoining the Autographs of the two BIBLIOGRAPHICAL WORTHIES who have cut such a conspicuous figure in the scene above described. The latter is now NO MORE. ]

 [Autographs]

LETTER V. 

MUNICH. CHURCHES. ROYAL PALACE. PICTURE GALLERY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. 

_Munich; Hôtel of the Black Eagle; Aug. 16, 1818. _

MY DEAR FRIEND;

Behold me, now, in the capital of Bavaria: in a city remarkable for itsbustle, compared with the other German cities which I have visited, anddistinguished rather for the general creditable appearance of the housesand public buildings, than for any peculiar and commanding remains ofantiquity. But ere I speak of the city, let me detain you for a few secondsonly with an account of my journey thither; and of some few particularswhich preceded my departure from Augsbourg. 

It turned out as I predicted. "Ere the set of sun, " ensuing my lastdespatch, I drove to the principal front of this large, comfortless, anddirty inn; and partook of a dinner, in the caffé, interrupted by theincessant vociferations of merchants and traders who had attended themarket (it being market day when I arrived), and annoyed beyond measure bythe countless swarms of flies, which chose to share my cutlet with me. 

On taking a farewell look of Augsbourg, my eyes seemed to leave unwillinglythose objects upon which I gazed. The Paintings, the Town Hall, the oldmonastery of Saints Ulric and Afra, all--as I turned round to catch aparting glance--seemed to have stronger claims than ever upon my attention, and to reproach me for the shortness of my visit. However, my fate wasfixed--and I now only looked steadily forward to Munich; my imaginationbeing warmed (you will say "inflamed") with the thoughts of the countlessfolios, in manuscript and in print--including _block-books_, unheard andundreamt of--which had been described to me as reposing upon the shelves ofthe Royal or PUBLIC LIBRARY. In consequence, Hans Burgmair, Albert Durer, and the Elder Holbein were perfectly forgotten--after we had reached thefirst stage, and changed horses at _Merching_. From Augsbourg to Munich isbut a pleasant and easy drive of about forty-five English miles. The laststage, from _Fürstenfelbruck_ to this place, is chiefly interesting; whilethe two tall brick towers of the cathedral church of Nôtre Dame keepconstantly in view for the last seven or eight miles. A chaussée, borderedon each side by willows, poplars, and limes, brings you--in a tediouslystraight line of four or five miles--up to the very gates of MUNICH. 

At first view, Munich looks like a modern city. The streets are tolerablyspacious, the houses are architectural, and the different little squares, _or places_, are pleasant and commodious. It is a city of business andbustle. Externally, there is not much grandeur of appearance, even in thepalaces or public buildings, but the interiors of many of these edificesare rich in the productions of ancient art;--whether of sculpture, ofpainting, of sainted relics, or of mechanical wonders. Every body just nowis from home; and I learn that the bronzes of the Prince Royal--which areconsidered to be the finest in Europe--are both out of order and out ofview. This gallant Prince loves also pictures and books: and, of thelatter, those more especially which were printed by the _Family of Aldus_. 

Upon the whole, there is something very anglicised in the appearance bothof this city and of its inhabitants. Of the latter, I have reason to speakin a manner the most favourable:--as you shall hear by and by. But let menow discourse (which I must do very briefly) of inanimate objects--or worksof art--before I come to touch upon human beings ... Here in constantmotion: and, as it should seem--alternately animated by hope and influencedby curiosity. The population of Munich is estimated at about 50, 000. Ofcourse, as before, I paid my first visit to the CATHEDRAL, or mother churchof NÔTRE DAME, upon the towers of which I had fixed my eyes for a wholehour on the approach to the city. Both the nave and towers, which are ofred brick, are frightful in the extreme; without ornament: without generaldesign: without either meaning or expression of any kind. The towers cannotbe less than 350 feet in height: but the tops are mere pepper-boxes. Nopart of this church, or cathedral, either within or without, can be olderthan the middle of the fifteenth century. [40]

The interior has really nothing deserving of particular description. But Icheck myself in an instant: It _has_ something--eminently worthy ofdistinct notice and the most unqualified praise. It has a monument of theEMPEROR Louis IV. Which was erected by his great-grandson Maximilian I. Duke of Bavaria, in 1603-12. The designer of this superb mausoleum was_Candit_: the figures are in black marble, the ornaments are in bronze; thelatter executed by the famous _Krummper_, of Weilheim. I am ignorant of thename of the sculptor. This monument stands in the centre of the choir, ofwhich it occupies a great portion. It is of a square form, having, at eachcorner, a soldier, of the size of life, bending on one knee and weeping:supporting, at the same time, a small flag between his body and arm. Thesesoldiers are supposed to guard the ashes of the dead. Between them arethree figures, of which two stand back to back. Between these two, somewhatmore elevated, is raised the figure of the Emperor Louis IV. --dressed inhis full imperial costume. But the two figures, just mentioned, areabsolutely incomparable. One of them is _Albert V. _ in armour, in his ducalattire:[41] the other is _William V. _ habited in the order of the goldenfleece. This habit consists of a simple broad heavy garment, up to theneck. The wearer holds a drawn sword in his right hand, which is turned alittle to the right. This figure may be full six feet and a half high. Thehead is uncovered; and the breadth of the drapery, together with the erectposition of the figure, and the extension of the sword, gives it one of themost commanding, and even appalling, airs imaginable. I stood before it, till I almost felt inclined to kneel and make obeisance. The entiremonument is a noble and consummate specimen of art: and can hardly have anysuperior, of its kind, throughout Europe. 

Perhaps I should add that the interior of this Church contains twenty-fourlarge octagonal pillars, dividing the nave from the side aisles: and thataround these latter and the choir, there are not fewer than twenty-fourchapels, ornamented with the tombs of ancient families of distinction. Thisinterior is about 350 English feet in length, by about 145 in width. 

Of the other Churches, that of St. MICHAEL, attached to the _late Collegeof the Jesuits_, --now forming the Public Academy or University, andcontaining the Public Library--is probably the most beautiful for itssimplicity of ornament and breadth of parts. Indeed at this moment I canrecollect nothing to be put in competition with it, as a comparativelymodern edifice. This interior is, as to _Roman_ architecture, what that ofSt. Ouen is as to _Gothic_: although the latter be of considerably greaterextent. It is indeed the very charm of interior architecture: where all theparts, rendered visible by an equal distribution of light, meet the eye atthe same time, and tell their own tale. The vaulted roof, full 300 Englishfeet in length, has not a single column to support it. Pilasters of theCorinthian order run along each side of the interior, beneath slightlyprojecting galleries; which latter are again surmounted by rows ofpilasters of the Doric order, terminating beneath the spring of the archedroof. The windows are below the galleries. Statues of prophets, apostles, and evangelists, grace the upper part of the choir--executed from thecharacteristic designs of Candit. The pulpit and the seats are beautifullycarved. Opposite the former, are oratories sustained by columns of redmarble; and the approach to the royal oratory is rendered more impressiveby a flight of ten marble steps. The founder of this church was William V. , who lies buried in a square vault below: near which is an altar, where theyshew, on All Saints Day, the brass coffins containing the ashes of thePrinces of Bavaria. The period of the completion of this church is quite atthe end of the sixteenth century. [42] But ere I quit it, I must not fail todirect your attention to a bronze crucifix in the interior--which is intruth a masterpiece of art. My eye ran over the whole of this interior withincreased delight at every survey; and while the ceremony of high mass wasperforming--and the censers emitted their clouds of frankincense--and thevocal and instrumental sounds of a large congregation pervaded everyportion of the edifice--it was with reluctance (but from necessity) that Isought the outward door, to close it upon such a combination ofattractions!

Of the nine or ten remaining churches, it will not be necessary to noticeany other than that of St. CAETAN, built by the Electress Adelaide, andfinished about the year 1670. It was built in the accomplishment of a vow. The pious and liberal Adelaide endowed it with all the relics of art, andall the treasures of wealth which she could accumulate. It is doubtless oneof the most beautiful churches in Bavaria:--quite of the Italian school ofart, and seems to be a St. Peter's at Rome in miniature. The architect wasAgostino Barella, of Bologna. This church is in the form of a cross. In thecentre is a cupola, sustained by pillars of the Corinthian order. The lightcomes down from the windows of this cupola in a very mellow manner; butthere was, when I saw it, rather a want of light. The nave is vaulted: andthe principal altar is beneath the dome, separating the nave from thechoir. The façade, or west front, is a building of yesterday, as it were:namely, of 1767; but it is beautiful and striking. This church isconsidered to be the richest in Munich for its collection of pictures; butnothing that I saw there made me forget, for one moment, the Crucifixion byHans Burgmair. [43] I should say that the interior of this church is equallydistinguished for the justness of its proportions, the propriety of itsornaments, and the neatness of its condition. It is an honour to the cityof Munich. 

There were, some half century ago, about a dozen more churches;--but theyhave been since either destroyed or _desecrated_. From the Churches, I mustconduct you, but in a very rapid manner, to some of the public buildings;reserving, as usual, my last and more leisurely description for the PUBLICLIBRARY. Of these buildings, the _Hôtel de Ville_, _Theatres_, and _RoyalResidence_, are necessarily the most imposing in size, and most attractivefrom their objects of public utility or amusement. The Royal Palace wasbuilt by Maximilian I. --a name as great in the annals of Bavaria, as thesame name was in those of Austria about a century before. This palace is ofabout two centuries standing: and its eastern façade measures 550 Englishfeet in length. It abounds, within and without, with specimens of bronzeornaments: and two bronze lions (the work of Krummper, after the designs ofCandit) which support the shields of the Electoral houses of Bavaria andLorraine, have been considered superior to the Lion in the Place of. St. Mark at Venice. This immense pile of building contains three courts. Inthat of "the Fountain, " to the left, under an arch, is a huge black pebblestone, weighing nearly 400 Bavarian pounds. An old German inscription, ofthe date of 1489, tells you that a certain Bavarian Duke, called_Christopher the Leaper_, threw this same pebble stone to a considerabledistance. Near it, you observe three large nails driven into the wall. Thehighest of them may be about twelve feet from the ground:--the mark whichChristopher the Leaper reached in one of his frolicksome jumps. I find theyare lovers of marvellous attainments, in Bavaria:--witness, the supposedfeat of the great Emperor Maximilian upon the parapet wall at the top ofthe cathedral of Ulm. [44]

To describe the fountains and bronze figures, in these three courts, wouldbe endless; but they strike you with a powerful degree of admiration--and asurvey of every thing about you, is a convincing proof that you haveentered a country where they shrink not from solidity and vastness in theirarchitectural achievements: while the lighter, or ornamental parts, are notless distinguished by the grace of their design and the vigour of theirexecution. Will you believe it--I have not visited, nor shall I have anopportunity of visiting, the _Interior_? An interior, in which I am toldthat there are such gems, jewels, and varieties--such miracles of natureand of art, as equally baffle description and set competition at defiance. As thus:--a chapel, of which the pavement is mosaic work, composed ofamethysts, jaspers, and lapis lazuli: of which the interior of its cupolais composed of lapis lazuli, adorned with gilt bronze: wherein is to beseen a statue of the Virgin, in a drapery of solid gold, with a crown uponher head, composed of diamonds:--a massive golden crucifix, adorned withprecious stones--and upon which there is an inscription cut upon an emeraldan inch square: again, small altars, supported by columns of transparentamethyst, &c. 

I will say nothing of two little caskets, studded with cameos andturquoises, in this chapel of fairy land--(built by Maximilian I. ) of whichone contains two precious pictures by Jean d'Aix la Chapelle--and the other(of massive gold, weighing twenty-four pounds) a painting of theresurrection and of paradise, in enamel. Even the very organ is constructedof gold, silver, ebony, turquois and lapis lazuli ornaments; of pearls andof coral. As to the huge altar of massive silver--adorned with cariatides, candelabra, statues, vases, and bouquets of the same metal--and especiallythe _pix_, lined with diamonds, rubies, and pearls--what shall I say ofthese--ALL the fruit of the munificent spirit of MAXIMILIAN? Truly, Iwould pass over the whole with an indifferent eye, to gaze upon a simplealtar of pure gold--the sole ornament of the prison of the unfortunate MaryQueen of Scots; which Pope Leo XI. Gave to William V. Elector ofBavaria--and which bears the following inscription:

 EXILII COMES ET CARCERIS IMAGO HAEC MARIAE STUARDAE, SCOT. REG. FUIT, FUISSET ET CAEDIS, SI VIXISSET. 

Not less marvellous things are told of the _Jewellery_ in this palace ofwonders:--among which the BLUE DIAMOND ... Attached to the order of theGolden Fleece--which is set open, and which, opposed to the sun, emits raysof the most dazzling lustre, --is said to be the nonpareil of colouredprecious stones. It weighs 36 carats and 144 grains. Of the _Pearls_, thatcalled the PALATINAT, half white and half black, is considered the greatestcuriosity; but in a cabinet is preserved the choicest of all choicespecimens of precious art and precious metals. It is a statue of _St. George and the Dragon_, of the height of about a foot and a half, in pureand solid gold: the horse is agate: the shield is of enamelled gold: thedragon is jasper: the whole being thickly studded with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls--to the number of at least two thousand! Anothercabinet contains the crowns of emperors, dukes and.... But you are alreadydazzled and bewildered; and I must break off the description of thisENCHANTED PALACE. 

What is of easy access is rarely visited. I asked several of myacquaintance here, whether this spectacle were worth seeing?--and they asfrequently replied in the negative as in the affirmative. But the PICTUREGALLERY I _have_ seen, and seen with attention;--although I am not likelyto pay it a second visit. I noted down what I saw: and paid particularattention to the progress of art in the early German school of painting. Iknew that this collection had long enjoyed a great celebrity: that it hadbeen the unceasing object of several of the old Dukes of Bavaria to enrichit; and that the famous Theodore, equally the admirer of books and ofpictures, had united to it the gallery of paintings collected by him atManheim. It moreover contained the united collections of Deux-Ponts andDusseldorf. This magnificent collection is arranged in seven large rooms onthe same floor. Every facility of access is afforded; and you observe, although not so frequently as at Paris, artists at work in copying thetreasures before them. In the entrance-hall, where there is a goodcollection of books upon the fine arts, are specimens by _Masaccio_, _Garofalo_, _Ghirlandaio_, _Perugino_, _Lucas de Leyden_, _Amberger_, _Wohlgemuth_, _Baldonetti, Aldegrave_, _Quinten Matsys_--with severalothers, by masters of the same period, clearly denoting the order of timein which they are supposed to have been executed. I was well pleased, inthis division of the old school, to recognise specimens of my old friendsHans Burgmair and the Elder Holbein; and wished for no individual at myelbow so much as our excellent friend W. Y. Ottley:--a profound critic inworks of ancient art, but more particularly in the early Italian and GermanSchools. 

To conduct you through all these apartments, or seven rooms, with themethodical precision of an experienced guide, is equally beyond myinclination and ability. Much as I may admire one or two _Titians_, one ortwo of the _Caracci_ school, the same number of _Veroneses_ and_Schidones_, and a partial sprinkling of indifferent _Raffaelles_, I shouldsay that the boast of this collection are the pictures by _Rubens andVandyke_. Of the former there are some excellent portraits; but his twoeasel pictures--the one, the _Fall of the Damned_, and the other the_Beatitude of the Good_--are marvellous specimens of art. The figures, extending from heaven to earth, in either picture, are linked, or groupedtogether, in that peculiarly bold and characteristic manner whichdistinguishes the pencil of the master. [45] The colouring throughout isfresh, but mellow and harmonious. Among the larger pictures by thisrenowned artist, are _Susanna and the Elders_, and _the Death of Seneca_;the latter considered as a distinguished production. But some of the wholelength portraits, by the same hand, pleased me better. The pictures ofRubens occupy more particularly the fourth room. Vandyke shines in thesecond, sixth, and seventh rooms: in which are some charming whole lengthportraits--combining, almost, the dignity of Titian with the colouring ofRembrandt:--and yet, more natural in expression, more elegant in attitude, and more beautiful in drawing, than you will find in the productions ofeither of these latter artists. 

If the art, whether of sculpture or of painting, take not deep root, andsend forth lusty branches laden with goodly fruit, at Munich--the fault cannever be in the _soil_, but in the waywardness of the _plant_. There isencouragement from every quarter; as far as the contemplation of art, inall its varieties, and all its magnificence, can be said to be a stimulusto exertion. When the re-action of a few dozen years of peace shall havenearly obliterated the ravages and the remembrance of war--when commerceand civil competition shall have entirely succeeded to exaction and tyrannyfrom a foreign force--(which it now holds forth so auspicious a promise ofaccomplishing)--and when literature shall revert within its former fruitfulchannels of enlightening the ignorant, gratifying the learned, andillustrating what is obscure among the treasures of former times--then Ithink Munich will be a proud and a flourishing city indeed. [46] But more ofthis subject on a future occasion. 

Let us take a walk abroad--in the fields, or in the immediate vicinity ofthe town--for methinks we have both had sufficient in-door occupation oflate. One of the principal places of resort, in the immediate vicinity ofMunich, is a garden--laid out after the English fashion--and of which thelate Count Rumford had the principal direction. It is really a verypleasing, and to my taste, successful effort of art--or rather adaptationof nature. A rapid river, or rivulet (a branch of the _Iser_) of which thecolour is a hazy or misty blue, very peculiar--runs under a small bridgewhich you pass. The bed of the river has a considerable descent, and thewater runs so rapidly, as to give you the idea that it would empty itselfin a few hours. Yet--"Labitur et labetur in omne volubilis ævum. " Istrolled frequently in the shady walks, and across the verdant lawns, ofthis pleasant garden; wherein are also arbour-covered benches, andembowered retreats--haunts of meditation--where

 ... Voices, through the void deep sounding, seize Th'enthusiastic ear!

But SKELL must not be deprived of his share of praise in the constructionof this interesting pleasure ground. He was the principal activesuperintendant; and is considered to have had a thorough knowledge of_optical effect_ in the construction of his vistas and lawns. A Chinesepagoda, a temple to Apollo--and a monument to Gessner, the pastoralpoet--the two latter embosomed in a wood--are the chief objects ofattraction on the score of art. But the whole is very beautiful, and muchsuperior to any thing of the kind which I have seen since leaving England. 

I told you, at the beginning of this letter, that it was market-day when wearrived here. Mr. Lewis, who loses no opportunity of adding to the storesof his sketch book, soon transferred a group of MARKET PEOPLE to his paper, of which you are here favoured with a highly finished copy. Thecountenances, as well as the dresses, are strongly indicative of thegeneral character of the German women. 

[Illustration]

I was surprised to be told, the other day, that the city of Munich, although lying upon a flat, apparently of several miles in circumference, is nevertheless situated upon very lofty ground:--full twelve or thirteenhundred feet above the level of the sea--and that the snow-charged blasts, from the Tyrolese mountains, towards the end of autumn, render it at timesexceedingly cold and trying to the constitution. But I must now revert tothe city, and proceed at once to an account of the most interesting of ALLthe public edifices at Munich--in my very humble, and perhaps capricious, estimation. Of course you will instantly catch at what I mean. "What, BUTthe edifice which contains THE PUBLIC LIBRARY?" 'Tis wisely conjectured;and to this boundless region of books, of almost every age and description, let us instantly resort: first paying our respects to the Directors andLibrarians of the establishment. 

Of the former, the BARON VON MOLL, and MR. FREDERIC SCHLICHTEGROLL areamong the principal: of the latter, Messrs. SCHERER and BERNHARD have thechief superintendence: of all these gentlemen, more in my next. [47] Atpresent, suffice it to say, that I was constantly and kindly attendedduring my researches by M. Bernhard--who proved himself in the frequentdiscussions, and sometimes little controversies, which we had together, tobe one of the very best bibliographers I had met upon the continent. In thebibliographical lore of the fifteenth century, he has scarcely a superior:and I only regretted my utter ignorance of the German language, whichprevented my making myself acquainted with his treatises, upon certainearly Latin and German Bibles, written in that tongue. But it was hiskindness--his diffidence--his affability, and unremitting attention--whichcalled upon me for every demonstration of a sense of the obligations I wasunder. It will not be easy for me to forget, either the kind-heartedattentions or the bibliographical erudition of M. Bernhard ... 

 "Quæ me cunque vocant terræ. "

Be it known to you therefore, my good friend, that the PUBLIC LIBRARY atMUNICH is attached to what was once the _College of Jesuits_; and to whichthe beautiful church, described in a few preceding pages, belonged. On thesuppression of the order of Jesuits, the present building was devoted to itby Charles Theodore in 1784: a man, who, in more than this one sense, hasdeserved well of his country. Would you believe it? They tell me that thereare at least _half a hundred_ rooms filled by books and MSS. Of one kind orother--including duplicates--and that they suppose the library containsnearer _four_, than _three hundred thousand volumes_! I scarcely know howto credit this; although I can never forget the apparently interminablesuccession of apartments--in straight lines, and in rectangular lines:floor upon floor: even to the very summit of the building, beneath theslanting roofs--such as I had seen at Stuttgart. But _here_ it should seemas if every monastery throughout Bavaria had emptied itself of itsbook-treasures ... To be poured into this enormous reservoir. 

But I will now begin my labours in good earnest. An oblong, narrow, boudoir-sort of apartment, contains the more precious MSS. , the blockbooks, and works printed upon vellum. This room is connected with another, at right angles, (if I remember well) which receives the more valuableworks of the fifteenth century--the number of which latter, alone, are saidto amount to nearly _twenty thousand_. In such a farrago, there mustnecessarily be an abundance of trash. These, however, are how under astrict assortment, or classification; and I think that I saw not fewer thanhalf a dozen assistants, under the direction of M. Bernhard, hard at workin the execution of this desirable task. 

LATIN MS. OF THE GOSPELS; _in small folio_. I have no hesitation inascribing this MS. To the ninth century. It is replete with evidences ofthis, or even of an earlier, period. It is executed in capital letters ofsilver and gold, about a quarter of an inch in height, upon a purpleground. Of course the MS. Is upon vellum. The beginning of the text isentirely obliterated; but on the recto of the XVth leaf we read "_ExpltBreuiarium_. "

LATIN MS. Of the GOSPELS; in _large folio_. This is a more superb, but morerecent, MS. Than the preceding. Yet I suspect it to be not much later thanthe very early part of the eleventh century. It is executed in a large, lower-case, roman letter: somewhat bordering upon the Gothic. But thebinding, at the very outset, is too singular and too resplendent to beoverlooked. The first side of it has the crucifixion, in a sort ofparallelogram frame work--in the centre: surrounded by a double arabesque, or Greek border, of a most beautiful form. The whole is in ivory, of aminute and surprisingly curious workmanship. The draperies partake of thecharacter of late Roman art. Round this central ivory piece of carving, isa square, brass border, with the following inscription; which, from thecharacter of the capital letters, (for it is wholly composed of such) iscomparatively quite modern:

 GRAMMATA QVI QVERIT COGNOSCERE VERE HOC MATHESIS PLENE QVADRATVM PLAVDAT HABERE EN QUI VERACES SOPHIE FULSERE SEQUACES ORNAT PERFECTAM REX HEINRICH STEMMATE SECTAM. 

In the outer border are precious stones, and portraits, with inscriptionsin Greek capital letters. These portraits and inscriptions seem to me to beperfect, but barbarous, specimens of Byzantine art. Around the whole arethe titles of the Four Gospels in coeval capital letters. The generaleffect of this first side of the book-cover, or binding, is perfect--forantiquarian genuineness and costliness. The other side of the bindingcontains representations of the cardinal virtues, in brass, with the lambin the centre: but they are comparatively modern. The interior of this bookdoes not quite accord with its exterior. It is in pure condition, in everyrespect; but the art is rather feeble and barbarous. The titles to theGospels are executed upon a purple ground. The larger subjects, throughoutthe illuminations, are executed with freedom, but the touch is heavy andthe effect weak. The gold back grounds are rather sound than resplendent. Yet is this MS. , upon the whole, a most costly and precious volume. 

LATIN PSALTER. Probably of the latter part of the twelfth century. The textis executed in a lower-case gothic. In the Calendar of Saints are found thenames of Edward the Martyr, Cuthbert, Guthlac, Etheldrith, and Thomas àBecket. I think I am fully justified in calling this one of the richest, freshest, and most highly ornamented PSALTERS in existence. Theilluminations are endless, and seem to comprise the whole history of theBible. In the representations of armour, we observe the semicircular andslightly depressed helmet, and no nasels. I must now lay before you a MS. Of a very different description--called

The ROMANCE OF SIR TRISTRANT;[48] in verse. This ms. Is wholly in theGerman language; written in the XIIIth century, and containing fifteenilluminations. M. Schérer, the Head Librarian, was so obliging as tofurnish me with an account of it; having himself translated, as literallyas possible, the original text into our own language. 

I shall now put together a few miscellaneous notices, taken, like all thepreceding, from the articles themselves--and which you will find to relatechiefly to books of Missals and Offices, &c. I shall begin, however, with ahighly illuminated MS. Called

The TWELVE SIBYLS. This beautiful book is doubtless of the XVth century. Itbegins with a representation of the "_Sibila Persica_. " The principal meritof these illuminations may, by some, be thought to consist in their_freshness_; but others will not fail to remark, that the accompaniments ofthese figures, such as the chairs on which they sit, and the pillars whichform the frame work of the pieces, are designed and executed in a style ofart worthy of the Florentine School of this period. Every Sibyl issucceeded by a scriptural subject. If the faces of these figures were alittle more animated and intelligent, this book would be a charmingspecimen of art of the XVth century. The _Erythræan Sibyl_ holds a whiterose very prettily in her left hand. The _Agrippinian Sibyl_ holds a whipin her left hand, and is said "to have prophesied XXX years concerning theflagellation of Christ. " This volume is a thin quarto, in delightfulcondition; bound in yellow morocco, but a _sufferer_ by the binding. 

A CALENDAR. This is a pretty little duodecimo volume, containing also shortprayers to Christ; and embellished by a representation of the severalmonths in the calendar. Each illumination has a border, and its appositecharacteristic subject attached to the month. Among the latter, those ofOctober and November are vigorously touched and warmly finished. A pictureof the Deluge follows December. The scription is in a neat roman character. This book is bound in lilac velvet, with silver clasps, and preserved in ayellow morocco case. 

OFFICE OF THE VIRGIN. An exquisite little octavo or rather duodecimo; boundin silver, with coloured ornaments inlaid. The writing, in small roman, shews an Italian calligraphist. The vellum is white, and of the mostbeautiful quality. The text is surrounded by flowers, fruits, insects, animals, &c. The initial letters are sparkling, and ornamented in thearabesque manner. But the compositions, or scriptural subjects, are themost striking. Among the more beautiful specimens of high finishing, is thefigure of Joseph--with the Virgin and Child--after the subject of theCircumcision. Upon the whole, the colours are probably too vivid. Thesubjects seem to be copies of larger paintings; and there is a good deal ofFrench feeling and French taste in their composition. The rogue of a binderhas shewn his love of cropping in this exquisite little volume. The date of1574 is upon the binding. 

MISSAL: beginning with the _Oratio devota ad faciem dni nostri ihuxpi_--A most exquisite volume in 8vo. : bound in black fish skin, withsilver clasps of an exceedingly graceful form, washed with gold, andstudded with rubies, emeralds, and other coloured stones. The head ofChrist, with a globe in his hand, faces the beginning of the text. Thisfigure has a short chin, like many similar heads which I have seen: but thecolours are radiant, and the border, in which our Saviour is bearing hiscross, below, is admirably executed. The beginning of St. John's Gospelfollows. The principal subjects have borders, upon a gray or gold ground, on which flowers are most beautifully painted: and some of the subjectsthemselves, although evidently of Flemish composition, are most brilliantlyexecuted. There is great nature, and vigour of touch, in the priestschanting, while others are performing the offices of religion. The_Annunciation_ is full of tenderness and richness; and, in the _Christ inthe manger_--from whose countenance, while lying upon the straw, the lightemanates and shines with such beauty upon the face of the Virgin--we seethe origin perhaps of that effect which has conferred such celebrity uponthe NOTTE of CORREGIO. What gives such a thorough charm to this book, is, the grace, airiness, and truth of the flowers--scattered, as it were, uponthe margins by the hand of a faëry. They have perhaps suffered somewhat bytime: but they are truth and tenderness itself. The writing is a largehandsome square gothic. 

OFFICE OF THE VIRGIN: bound in massive silver--highly ornamented, in thearabesque manner, and washed with gold. The back is most ingeniouslycontrived. But if the exterior be so attractive, the interior is not lessso--for such a sweetly, and minutely ornamented, book, is hardly to beseen. The margins are very large and the text is very small: only aboutfifteen lines, by about one inch and three quarters wide. Upon seeing themargins, M. Schérer, the head-librarian, exclaimed, "I hope that satisfiesyou!" But they are by no means disproportionate--and the extraordinarycolour and quality of the vellum render them enchanting. We come now to theornaments. These are clusters of small flowers, strung in a pearl-likemanner, and formed or grouped into the most pleasing and tasteful shapes. The figures are small, with a well indicated outline. How pretty are thelittle subjects at the foot of each month of the Calendar! And how totallydifferent from the common-place stiffness, and notorious dullness, of thegenerality of Flemish pieces of this character! This book has no superiorof its kind in Europe; and is worthy, on a small scale, of what we see inthe superb folios of Matthias Corvinus. [49]

A BOOK OF PRAYERS--almost entirely spoilt by damp and rottenness within. Ishould think, from the writing and illuminations, it was executed betweenthe years 1450 and 1480. The outside is here the principal attraction. Itis a very ancient massive binding, in silver. On each side is a sacredsubject; but on that, where the Crucifixion is represented, the figure tothe right has considerable expression. At the bottom of each compartmentare the arms of Bavaria and of the Dukes of Milan. This is a precioustreasure in its way. 

The present is probably the proper place to notice the _principal gem_--inthe department of illuminated books of devotion--preserved in the RoyalLibrary at Munich:--I mean, what is called, ALBERT DURER'S PRAYER BOOK. This consists merely of a set of marginal embellishments in a small foliovolume, of which the text, written in a very large lower-case gothicletter, forms the central part. These embellishments are said to be by thehand of ALBERT DURER: although, if I mistake not, there is a similarproduction, or continuation, by LUCAS CRANACH. They are executed in coloursof bistre, green, purple, or pink; with a very small portion of shadow--andapparently with a reed pen. Nothing can exceed the spirit of theirconception, the vigour of their touch, and the truth both of their drawingand execution. They consist chiefly of _capriccios_, accompanied by thefigure or figures of four Saints, &c. They afford one addition to the verymany proofs, which I have already seen, of the surprising talents of AlbertDurer: and, if I remember rightly; this very volume has been lithographisedat Munich, and published in our own country. [50]

Descending lower in the chronological order of my researches, I now come tothe notice of four very splendid and remarkable folio volumes, comprisingonly the text of the SEVEN PENITENTIAL PSALMS: and which exhibitextraordinary proofs of the united skill of the _Scribe_, the _Musician_, the _Painter_, and the _Book Binder_--all engaged in the execution of thesevolumes. Of each of these artists, there is a PORTRAIT; but among them, none please my fancy so much as that of GASPAR RITTER, the book-binder. Allthese portraits are executed in body colour, in a slight but bold manner, and appear to me to be much inferior to the general style of art in thesmaller and historical compositions, illustrative of the text of the book. But Gaspar Ritter well merits a distinct notice; for these volumes displaythe most perfect style of binding, which I have yet seen, of the sixteenthcentury. They are in red morocco, variegated with colours, and secured byclasps. Every thing about them is firm, square, knowing and complete. Theartist, or painter, to whom these volumes are indebted for their chiefattraction, was John MIELICH; a name, of which I suspect very little isknown in England. His portrait bears the date of 1570. 

Looking fairly through these volumes--not for the sake of finding fault, orof detecting little lapses from accuracy of drawing, or harmony ofcomposition--I do not hesitate one moment to pronounce the series ofembellishments, which they contain, perfectly unrivalled--as the productionof the same pencil. Their great merit consists in a prodigious freedom oftouch and boldness of composition. The colouring seems to be purposely madesubordinate. Figures the most minute, and actions the most difficult toexpress, are executed in a ready, off-hand manner, strongly indicative, ofthe masterly powers of the artist. The subjects are almost interminable innumber, and endless in variety. 

I shall now proceed at once to an account of the xylographical productions, or of BLOCK BOOKS in the public library of this place; and shall begin witha work, of which (according to my present recollection) no writer hath yettaken notice. It is a _Life of Christ_, in small quarto, measuring scarcelyfive inches by four. The character of the type is between that of Pfisterand the Mazarine Bible, although rather more resembling the latter. Eachside of the leaf has text, or wood cut embellishments. The first eightpages contain fifteen lines in a page: the succeeding two pages onlythirteen lines; but the greater number of the pages have fourteen lines. 

It is precisely the dotted ground, in the draperies, that impresses me witha notion of the antiquity of these cuts. Such a style of art is seen in allthe earlier efforts of wood engraving, such as the _St. Bernardinus_belonging to M. Van-Praet, and the prints pasted within the covers of Mr. George Nicol's matchless copy of the Mazarine Bible, upon vellum, in itsoriginal binding. [51] M. Bernhard also shewed me, from his extraordinarycollection of early prints, taken from the old MS. Volumes in this library, several of this precise character; and to which we may, perhaps withsafety, assign the date of 1460 at the latest. I have been particular inthe account of this curious little volume, not so much because it is keptin a case, and considered to be _unique_, as because, to the best of myrecollection, no account of it is to be found in any bibliographicalpublication. 

EXHORTATION AGAINST THE TURKS, &c. : of the supposed date of 1455. This isthe singular tract, of which Baron Aretin (the late head librarian of thisestablishment) published an entire fac-simile; and which, from the date ofM. Cccc. Lv appearing at the bottom line of the first page, was conceived tobe of that period. M. Bernhard, however, --in an anonymous pamphlet--proved, from some local and political circumstances introduced, or referred to, inthe month of _December_--in the Calendar attached to this exhortation--thatthe _genuine_ date should rather be 1472. This brochure is also consideredto be unique. It is a small quarto, of six leaves only, of which the firstleaf is blank. The type is completely in the form of that of Pfister, andthe paper is unusually thick. At the bottom of the first leaf it isobserved, in ms. "_Liber eximiæ raritatis et inter cimelia bibliothecæasservandus. F. Er_. "

ARS MEMORANDI, &c. Here are not fewer than _five copies_ of this wellknown--and perhaps first--effort of block-book printing. These are of theearliest dates, yet with trifling variations. The wood cuts in all thecopies are coloured; some more heavily than others; and in one of them youobserve, in the figure of St. Matthew, that red or crimson glossy wash, orcolour, so common in the earliest prints--and which is here carried overthe whole figure. One of these five copies is unbound. 

ARS MORIENDI. Here are two editions, of which one copy is indisputably themost ancient--like that in Lord Spencer's library, [52]--but of aconsiderably larger size, in quarto. There can be no doubt of the whole ofthis production being xylographical. Unluckily this fine copy has the firstand last pages of text in ms. The other pages, with blank-reverses, arefaintly impressed in brown ink: especially the first, which seems to beinjured. A double-line border is round each page. This copy, which is boundin blue morocco, has also received injury from a stain. I consider thesecond copy, which is bound in red morocco, to be printed with moveable_metal_ types. The ink is however of a palish brown. I never saw anothercopy of this latter impression. 

BIBLIA PAUPERUM. _In Latin_. I doubt whether this be the first edition; butat any rate it is imperfect. _In German_: with the date of 1470. Here aretwo copies; of which I was anxious to obtain the duplicate (the largest anduncoloured, ) for the library in St. James's Place; but the value fixed uponit was too high; indeed a little extravagant. 

The APOSTLES CREED. _In German_. Only seven leaves, but pasted together--sothat, the work is an opistographised production. This is a very rare, andindeed unique volume; and utterly unknown to bibliographers. Each cut isabout the same size, and there are twelve in the whole. There is no othertext but the barbarous letters introduced at the bottom of the cut. 

MIRABILIA URBIS ROMÆ. Another generally unknown xylographic performance;printed in the German language: being a small quarto. I have secured aduplicate of this singular volume for Lord Spencer's library, intending todescribe it in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_. [53]

The LIFE OF ST. MEINRAT; _in German_, in a series of wood-cutrepresentations. This Saint was murdered by two men, whose Christian nameswere Peter and Richard, and who were always afterwards haunted by a coupleof crows. There is a German introduction of two pages, preceding the cuts. These cuts are forty-eight in number. At the thirtieth cut, the Saint ismurdered; the earlier series representing the leading events of his life. The thirty-first cut represents the murderers running away; an angel beingabove them; In the thirty-second cut, they continue to be pursued. Thethirty-third cut thus describes them; the German and the version being asfollow; "_Hie furt man die mord vo danne un wil schleisse vnredern die rappen volget alle zit hin nach vn stechet sy_. " "Herethey bring the murderers, in order to drag them upon the hurdle toexecution, and to break them upon the wheel. The crows follow and peckthem. "

In the thirty-fourth cut Peter and Richard are tied and dragged at theheels, of a horse. In the thirty-fifth they are broken upon the wheel. 

The _Calendar of Regiomontanus_--A decidedly xylographical production; thefirst date is 1475, the last 1525. A fine sound copy, but cropt. In aduplicate copy the name of the mathematician is given at the end. 

CANTICA CANTICORUM. First edition. A beautiful copy; cropt, but clean. Sixteen cuts, uncoloured. The leaves have been evidently pasted together. Another copy, coloured; but of a later date. In fine preservation. A thirdcopy; apparently the first edition; washed all over with a slight browntint, and again coarsely coloured in parts: This copy singularly enough, isintermixed with portions of the first edition (as I take it) of the_Apocalypse_: very clumsily coloured. A fourth copy, also, as I conceive, of the first edition; rather heavily coloured. The back grounds areuncoloured. This is larger than the other copies. 

DEFENSIO IMMACULATÆ CONCEPTIONIS B. M. V. _Without place; of the date of1470_. This is a Latin treatise; having four cuts in each page, with theexception of the first two pages, which exhibit only Saints Ambrose, Austin, Jerom and Gregory. At the bottom of the figure of St. Austin, second column, first page, it is thus written; "_f. W. 1470_. " In the wholesixteen pages. The style of art is similar to that used in theAntichrist. [54] Of this tract, evidently xylographical, I never saw orheard of another copy. 

The foregoing list may be said to comprise the _chief rarities_ among theBLOCK BOOKS in the Public Library at Munich; and if I am not mistaken, theywill afford no very unserviceable supplement to the celebrated work ofHeineken upon the same subject. From this department in the art ofprinting, we descend naturally to that which is connected with metal types;and accordingly I proceed to lay before you another list of_Book-Rarities_--taken from the earlier _printed volumes_ in this mostextraordinary Library. 

We will begin with the best and most ancient of all Books:--the BIBLE. Theyhave a very singular copy of what is called the _Mazarine edition_: orrather the parent impression of the sacred text:--inasmuch as it contains(what, I believe, no other copy in Europe contains, and therefore M. Bernhard properly considers it as unique) _four printed leaves of a table_, as directions to the Rubricator. At the end of the Psalter is a ms. Notethus: "_Explicit Psalterium, 61_. " This copy is in other respects far frombeing desirable, for it is cropt, and in very ordinary calf binding. _Mentelin's German Bible_. Here are two copies of this first impression ofthe Bible in the German language: both of which have distinct claims torender them very desirable. In the one is an inscription, in the Germanlanguage, of which M. Bernhard supplied me with the following literalversion: "_Hector Mulich and Otilia his wife; who bought this Bible in theyear of Our Lord, 1466, on the twenty-seventh day of June, for twelveflorins_. " Their arms are below. The whole is decidedly a coevalinscription. Here, therefore, is another testimony[55] of the printing ofthis Bible at least as early as the year 1466. At the end of the book ofJeremiah, in the same copy, is a ms. Entry of 1467; "_sub Papa PauloSecundo et sub Imperatore Frederico tertio_. " The second copy of thisedition, preserved in the same library, has a German ms. Memorandum, executed in red ink, stating that this edition is "_well translated, without the addition of a single word, faithful to the Latin: printed atStrasbourg with great care_. " This memorandum is doubtless of the time ofthe publication of the edition; and the Curators of the library veryjudiciously keep both copies. 

A third, or triplicate copy, of Mentelin's edition--much finer than eitherof the preceding--and indeed abounding with rough edges--was purchased byme for the library in St. James's place; but it was not obtained for a sumbeneath its full value. [56]

Here is a copy of _Eggesteyn's Latin Bible_, containing forty-five lines ina full page, with the important date of "_24th May, 1466_"--in a coeval ms. Memorandum. Thus, you see, here is a date two years earlier[57] than thatin a copy of the same Bible in the Public Library at Strasbourg; and Ithink, from hence, we are well warranted in supposing that both Mentelinand Eggesteyn had their presses in full play at Strasbourg in 1466--if notearlier. This copy of Eggesteyn's first Bible, which is in its originalbinding of wood, is as fine and large as it is precious. 

I shall continue, miscellaneously, with the earlier printed books. _T. Aquinas de Virtutibus et Vitiis_; printed by _Mentelin_ in his smallestcharacter. At the end, there is the following inscription, in faded greenink; _Johannes Bamler de Augusta hui^9 libri Illuiator Anno 1468_. ThusBamler should seem to be an illuminator as well as printer, [58] and Panzeris wrong in supposing that Bamler _printed_ this book. Of course Panzerformed his judgment from a copy which wanted such accidental attestation. _Ptolemy_, 1462: with all the maps, coloured. _Livy_ (1469): very fine--inits original binding--full sixteen inches high. _Cæsar_, 1469: very fine, in the original binding. _Lucan_, 1469: equally fine, and coated in thesame manner. _Apuleius_, 1469: imperfect and dirty. The foregoing, youknow, are all EDITIONES PRINCIPES. But judge of my surprise on findingneither the first edition of _Terence_, nor of _Valerius Maximus_, nor of_Virgil_[59]--all by Mentelin. I enquired for the first _Roman_ or _BolognaOvid_: but in vain. It seemed that I was enquiring for "bluediamonds;"[60]--so precious and rare are these two latter works. 

Here are very fine copies of the _Philosophical works of Cicero, printed byUlric Han_--with the exception of the Tusculan Questions and the treatiseupon Oratory, of the dates of 1468, 1469--which are unluckily wanting. M. Bernhard preserves _four_ copies of the _Euclid_ of 1482, because they haveprinted variations in the margins. One of these copies has the prefix, orpreface of one page, printed in letters of gold. I saw another such a copyat Paris. Here is the _Milan Horace of 1474_--the text only. The_Catholicon by Gutenberg, of 1460_: UPON VELLUM: quite perfect as to thetext, but much cropt, and many pieces sliced out of the margins--forpurposes, which it were now idle to enquire after; although I have heard ofa Durandus of 1459 in our own country, which, in ancient times, had been soserved for the purpose of writing directions on parcels of game, &c. _Catholicon of 1469 by G. Zeiner_; also UPON VELLUM, and equally cropt--butotherwise sound and clean. This copy contains an ancient manuscript notewhich must be erroneous; as it professes the first owner to have gotpossession of the book before it was _printed_: in other words, an _unit_was omitted in the date, and we should read 1469 for 1468. [61]

Among the more precious ITALIAN BOOKS, is a remarkably fine copy of the oldedition of the _Decameron of Boccaccio_, called the _Deo Gracias_--whichLord Spencer purchased at the sale of the Borromeo library in London, lastyear. It is quite perfect, and in a fine, large condition. It was taken toParis on a certain memorable occasion, and returned hither on an occasionequally memorable. It contains 253 leaves of text and two of table; and hasred ms. Prefixes. It came originally from the library of Petrus Victorius, from which indeed there are many books in this collection, and was boughtby the King of Bavaria at Rome. What was curious, M. Bernhard shewed me aminute valuation of this very rare volume, which he had estimated at 1100florins--somewhere about £20. Below the price given by Lord Spencer for hiscopy, of which four leaves are supplied by ms. Here is a magnificent copyof the _Dante of 1481_, with XX CUTS; the twentieth being precisely similarto that of which a fac-simile appears in the B. S. This copy was _demanded_by the library at Paris, and xix. Cuts only were specified in the demand;the twentieth cut was therefore secreted, from another copy--which othercopy has a duplicate of the first cut, pasted at the end of the preface. The impressions of the cuts, in the copy under description, are worthy ofthe condition of the text and of the amplitude of the margins. It is anoble book, in every point of view. 

I was shewn a great curiosity by this able bibliographer; nothing less thana sheet, or _broadside_, containing _specimens of types from Ratdolf'spress_. This sheet is in beautiful preservation, and is executed in doublecolumns. The first ten specimens are in the _gothic_ letter, with agradually diminishing type. The last is thus:

 _Hunc adeas mira quicunq: volumina queris Arte uel ex animo pressa fuisse tuo Seruiet iste tibi: nobis (sic) iure sorores Incolumem seruet vsq: rogare licet. _

This is succeeded by three gradually diminishing specimens of the printer's_roman_ letter. Then, four lines of Greek, in the Jensonian or Venetiancharacter: next, in large black letter, as below. [62]

But a still greater curiosity, in my estimation, was a small leaf; by wayof _advertisement_, containing a list of publications issuing from thepress of a printer whose name has not yet been discovered, and attachedapparently to a copy of the _Fortalitium Fidei_; in which it was found. Luckily there was a duplicate of this little broadside--oradvertisement--and I prevailed upon the curators, or rather upon M. Bernhard (whose exclusive property it was) to part with this Sibyllineleaf, containing only nineteen lines, for a copy of the _Ædes Althorpianæ--_as soon as that work should be published. [63] Of course, this is securedfor the library in St. James's Place. 

I am now hastening to the close of this catalogue of the Munichbook-treasures. You remember my having mentioned a sort of oblong cabinet, where they keep the books PRINTED UPON VELLUM--together with block books, and a few of the more ancient and highly illuminated MSS. I visited thiscabinet the first thing on entering--and the last thing on leaving--thePublic Library. "Where are your _Vellum Alduses_, good Mr. Bernhard?" saidI to my willing and instructive guide. "You shall see only _two_ ofthem"--(rejoined he) but from these you must not judge of the remainder. Sosaying, he put into my hands the _first editions of Horace and Virgil_, each of 1501, and bound in one volume, in old red morocco. They weregems--almost of the very first order, and--almost of their originalmagnitude: measuring six inches and three eighths, by three inches andseven eighths. They are likewise sound and clean: but the Virgil is notequal to Lord Spencer's similar copy, in whiteness of colour, or beauty ofillumination. Indeed the illuminations in the Munich copy are left in anunfinished state. In the ardour of the moment I talked of these twoprecious volumes being worth "120 louis d'or. " M. B. Smiled gently, as heheard me, and deliberately returned the volumes to theirstations--intimating, by his manner, that not thrice that sum shoulddispossess the library of such treasures. I have lost my memoranda as tothe number of these vellum Alduses; but the impression upon my mind is, that they have not more than _six_. 

Of course, I asked for a VELLUM _Tewrdanckhs_ of 1517, and my guideforthwith placed _two_ MEMBRANACEOUS copies of this impression beforeme:--adding, that almost every copy contained variations, more or less, inthe text. Indeed I found M. B. "doctissimus" upon this work; and I think hesaid that he had published upon it as well as Camus. [64] This is about theninety-ninth time that I have most sensibly regretted my utter ignorance, of the language (German) in which it pleaseth M. Bernhard to put forth hisinstructive bibliographical lucubrations. Of these two copies, one has thecuts coloured, and is very little cropt: the other has the cuts uncoloured, and is decidedly cropt. 

With the Tewrdanckhs, I take my leave both of the public library of Munichand (for the present) of its obliging and well-informed Second Librarian. But I must not leave this WORLD OF BOOKS without imparting to you thesatisfaction which I felt on witnessing half a dozen grave-looking scribesemployed, chiefly under the direction of M. Bernhard, in making out aclassed catalogue of _Fifteeners_--preparatory to the sale of theirDuplicates. This catalogue will be important in many respects; and I hopeto see it in my own country within two years from the date of the presentepistle. [65]

And now methinks it is high time to put the concluding paragraph to thissaid epistle--so charged with bibliographical intelligence respecting thecapital of Bavaria. You must give it more than _one_ perusal if you wish todigest it thoroughly. My next, within forty-eight hours hereof, will leaveme on the eve of departure from hence. In the meanwhile, prepare for somepleasant BOOK TIDINGS in my ensuing despatch. 

[40] Both the nave and towers appear in Hartmann Schedel's view of Munich, in the _Nuremberg Chronicle_ of 1493: see fol. Ccxxvi. The "pepper-box" terminations are, I conceive, of a later date. 

[41] I take this to be the famous Albert who died in 1500; and who, in Schedel's time, kept lions for his disport--at Munich: "qui sua magnificentia plures nutrit leones" _Chron. Norimb. _ 1493. _Ibid. _

[42] The steeple fell down in the year 1599, and has never been rebuilt. 

[43] See p. 87 ante. 

[44] See p. 66 ante. 

[45] [Sir J. Reynolds criticised these pictures when they were in the _Dusseldorf Gallery_: but I cannot just now lay my hand upon his remarks. ]

[46] [It has made, and is yet making, great strides towards the accomplishment of the above-mentioned objects--since the above passage was written. ]

[47] [With the exception of the first, (although I do not make this exception with _confidence_) all the above-named gentlemen have CEASED TO EXIST. Mr. Bernhard I believe died before the publication of the preceding edition of this work: and I add, with perfect sincerity, that _his_ decease, and that of _M. Adam Bartsch_ (vide post) were, to me, among the bitterest regrets which I ever experienced in my intercourse with foreign literati. 

[48] The able editor of the Romance of Sir TRISTREAM, ascribed to Thomas of Ercildoune, appears to have been entirely ignorant of the existence of this highly curious and coeval German version. I regret that I am unable to give the reader a complete analysis of the whole. 

 From this account, I select the following very small portion--of fidelity of version--with a fac-simile of one of the Embellishments. 

 So all his thoughts were wavering:

 _Wilen abe vn wilent an_-- One while above, and one while down, _Er tet wol an im selben schin_ He truly on himself made shew, _Daz der minnende mot_ That an amorous mind behaves _Reht als der vrie fogel tot_ Even as the bird in the open air, _Der durch die friheit dier hat_ Who, by the liberty he enjoys, _Vf daz gelimde twi gestat_ Slightly sits on the lime-twig down; _Als er des limes danne entsebet_ As soon as he the lime descrys, _Vnd er sieh vf ze fluhte hebet_ And rises up to fly in haste, _So chlebet er mit den fossen an_. His feet are clinging to the twig. 

 This simile of the bird seems expressed in the illumination, of which the outline has been faithfully copied by Mr. Lewis:

 [Illustration]

[49] See page 33 ante. 

[50] It appeared in the year 1808, and was sold for 2l. 12s. 6d. But a blank space was left in the middle--which, in the original, is occupied by a heavy gothic text. The publication of the continuation by Lucas Cranach appeared in 1818. 

[51] Now in the Collection of Henry Perkins, Esq. 

[52] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. I. P. Xv-xxiii. Where fac-similes of some of the cuts will be found. 

[53] Where it is fully described, in vol. Ii. P. 188, &c. With fac-similes of the type and ornaments. An entire page of it is given at p. 189. 

[54] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. I. P. Xxxi. 

[55] A copy in the public library at Stuttgart has a ms. Memorandum in which the same dominical date is entered. See note, at page 21 ante. 

[56] It must be mentioned, however, that a fine copy of the _German edition of Breydenbach's Travels, of 1486_, was given into the bargain. 

[57] In the _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. I. P. 38-9--where a fac-simile of the type of this edition is given--the impression is supposed to have been executed in "the year 1468 at latest. " The inscription of 1468 in the Strasbourg copy (see vol. Ii. P. 404. ) should seem at least to justify the caution of this conclusion. But, from the above, we are as justified in assigning to it a date of at least two years earlier. 

[58] Lord Spencer possesses a copy of _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, with the Commentary of Trivetus, printed by Mentelin, which was also illuminated by Bamler in the same year as above--1468. The memorandum to this effect, by Bamler, is given in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_; vol. Ii. P. 20. 

[59] I will not say _positively_ that the VIRGIL is _not_ there; but I am pretty sure of the absence of the two preceding works. My authority was, of course, the obliging and well informed M. Bernhard. 

[60] See page 115 ante. 

[61] The inscription is this: "_Anno dni Millesimo cccc^o lxviij^o. Conparatus est iste Katholicon tpe Iohis Hachinger h^{9} ccclie p tunc imeriti pptti. P. Xlviij Aureis R flor^{9} taxatus p. H xxi faciunt in moneta Vsuali xlvj t d_. " So that it seems a copy of this work, upon vellum, was worth at the time of its publication, _forty-six golden florins_. 

[62] _Indicis characterum diversarum manerieru impressioni parataru: Finis. Erhardi Ratdolt Augustensis viri solertissimi: preclaro ingenio & mirifica arte: qua olim Venetijs excelluit celebratissimus. In imperiali nunc vrbe Auguste vindelicorum laudatissime impressioni dedit. Annoq; salutis_ M. CCCC. LXXXXVI. _Cale Aprilis Sidere felici compleuit_. 

[63] An admirably executed fac-simile of the above curious document appears in the work here referred to: vol. Ii. P. 131--where the subject of its probable printer is gone into at considerable length. 

[64] The reader, if he have leisure and inclination, may consult a long note in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. I. P. 201, respecting the best authorities to be consulted upon the above very splendid and distinguished performance. Camus is included in the list of authorities referred to. 

[65] Seven years have elapsed since the above was written, but no CLASSED CATALOGUE of any portion of the Public Library of Munich has appeared in this country. Speaking of _duplicates_, not printed in the fifteenth century, it may be worth observing that they have at Munich not fewer than six copies (double the number of those at Strasbourg;) of the ACTA SANCTORUM; good handsome copies in vellum binding. 

 [Since the first edition of this Tour was published, several copies of this stupendous, but unfortunately imperfect work, have been imported into England: among which, however, none, to my recollection, have found their way from MUNICH. Indeed, the heavy expense of carriage is almost an interdiction: unless the copies were obtained at very moderate prices. ]

LETTER VI. 

FURTHER BOOK-ACQUISITIONS. SOCIETY. THE ARTS. 

The bright bibliographical star, which shone upon me at Stuttgart, hascontinued to shine with the same benign lustre at this place. "[Greek:_Heurêka Heurêka_]"!--the scarcest and brightest of all the ALDINE GEMS hasbeen found and secured by me: that gem, for which M. Renouard stillcontinues to sigh and to rave, alternately, in despair of a _perfect_ copy;and which has, only very recently, been placed among the most brilliantornaments of the Royal Library at Paris. [66] What may these strangeexclamations and inuendos imply?--methinks I hear you say. You shall knowin a trice--which just brings me to the very point with which my previousepistle concluded. Those "pleasant book-tidings, " referred to in my last, and postponed for the present opportunity, are "as hereafter followeth. "

In my frequent conversations with the Guardians of the Public Library, Ilearnt that one STOEGER, a bookseller chiefly devoted to the purchase andsale of _Aldine_ volumes, resided in this metropolis; that his abode wasrather private than public; and that his "magasin" was lodged on the secondor third floor, in a row of goodly houses, to the right, on entering thecity. M. Bernhard added, that Mr. Stoeger had even a copy of the firstAldine edition of the _Greek hours_ (printed in 1497)--which is the verygem above alluded to; "but (observed my intelligent informant, as heaccompanied me to the door of the bookseller in question) "he will not partwith it: for both the Prince Royal and our Public Library have beenincessant in their importunities to possess it. He sets an extravagantprice upon it. " Having been instructed from early youth, "never to takethat for _granted_ which remained to be _proved_, " I thanked the worthy M. Bernhard for his intelligence; and, wishing him a good morning, entered thechamber of Mr. Stoeger. 

I had previously heard (and think that I have before made mention) of theeagerness with which the Prince Royal of Bavaria purchases _Alduses_; andown, that, had I chosen to reflect one little minute, I might have beensufficiently disheartened at any reasonable prospect of success, againsttwo such formidable opponents as the Prince and the Public Library. However, in cases of emergency, 'tis better to think courageously and toact decisively. I entered therefore the chamber of this Aldine bookseller, resolved upon bearing away the prize--"coute qu'il coute"--provided thatprize were not absolutely destined for another. M. Stoeger saluted meformally but graciously. He is a short, spare man, with a sharp pair ofdark eyes, and speaks French with tolerable fluency. We immediatelycommenced a warm bibliographical discussion; when Mr. Stoeger, all of asudden, seemed to raise himself to the height of six feet--gave threestrides across the room--and exclaimed, "Well, Sir; the cabinet of my LordSpencer wants something which I possess in yonder drawer. " I told him thatI knew what it was he alluded to; and, with the same decision with which Iseemed to bespeak the two Virgils at Stuttgart, I observed, that "_that_want would soon cease; for that ere I quitted the room, the book inquestion would doubtless become the property of the nobleman whom he hadjust mentioned. " Mr. Stoeger, for three seconds, was lost in astonishment:but instinctively, as it were; he approached the drawer: opened it: andshewed me an unbound, sombre-looking, but sound and perfect copy of the_first edition_ of the GREEK HOURS, _printed by Aldus_. 

As I had among my papers a collation of the perfect copy at Paris, I soondiscovered that Mr. Stoeger's copy was also complete; and ... In less thanfifteen minutes I gained a _complete victory_ over the Prince Royal ofBavaria and the corps bibliographique of Messrs. Von Moll, Schlichtegroll, Schérer, Bernhard, &c. --the directors and guardians of the Public Libraryat Munich. In other words, this tiny book, measuring not quite four inches, by not quite three, was _secured_--for the cabinet in question--at theprice of * * florins!! The vender, as I shrewdly suspect, had bought it ofa brother bookseller at Augsbourg, [67]of the name of KRANSFELDER (a worthyman; whom I visited--but with whom I found nothing but untransportableLatin and German folios) for ... Peradventure only the _hundredth part_ ofthe sum which he was now to receive. What shall we say? The vender isdesignated by Mr. Schlichtegroll, in the preface of the last sale catalogueof the duplicates of the Public Library (1815, 8vo. ) as "bibliopolahonestissimus"--and let us hope that he merits the epithet. Besides, booksof this excessive rarity are objects of mere caprice and fancy. To returnto this "bibliopola honestissimus, " I looked out a few more temptingarticles, of the Aldine character, [68] and receiving one or two as adouceur; in the shape a present, settled my account with Mr. Stoeger ... And returned to my lodging more and more confirmed in the truth of theposition of "not taking _that_ for granted which remained to be _proved_. "The whole of this transaction was, if I may so speak, in the naughty vanityof my heart, a sort of _octodecimo_ illustration of the "VENI, VIDI, VICI"of a certain illustrious character of antiquity. 

Of a very different character from this _Aldine bibliopolist_ is abookseller of the name of VON FISCHHEIM: the simplest, the merriest, themost artless of his fraternity. It was my good friend Mr. Hess (of whom Ishall presently speak somewhat more at large) who gave me information ofhis residence. "You will find there (added he) all sorts of old books, olddrawings, pictures, and curiosities. " What a provocative for an immediateand incessant attack! I took my valet with me--for I was told that Mr. VonFischheim could not speak a word of French--and within twenty minutes ofreceiving the information, found myself in the dark and dreary premises ofthis same bibliopolist. He lives on the first floor; but the way thither isalmost perilous. Mr. Fischheim's cabinet of curiosities was crammed even tosuffocation; and it seemed as if a century had elapsed since a vent-holehad been opened for the circulation of fresh air. I requested the favour ofa pinch of snuff from Mr. Fischheim's box, to counteract all unpleasantsensations arising from effluvia of a variety of description--but Irecommend English visitors in general to _smoke a segar_ while they rummageamong the curiosities of Mr. Fischheim's cabinet! Old Tom Hearne mighthere, in a few minutes, have fancied himself ... Any thing he pleased!

The owner of these miscellaneous treasures wore one unvarying smile uponhis countenance during the whole time of my remaining with him. He saw mereject this, and select that; cry "pish" upon one article, and "bravo" uponanother--with the same settled complacency of countenance. His responseswere short and pithy, and I must add, pleasant: for, having entirely givenup all hopes of securing any thing in the shape of a good picture, a goodbust, or a genuine illumination from a rich old MS. , I confined myselfstrictly to printed books--and obtained some very rare, precious, andbeautifully-conditioned volumes upon most reasonable and acceptableterms. [69] Having completed my purchase, the books were sent to the hotelby a shopman, in the sorriest possible garb, but who wore, nevertheless, amark of military distinction in his button-hole. From henceforth I canneither think, nor speak, but with kindness of Paul Ludwig Von Fischheim, the simplest, the merriest, and most artless of his fraternity. 

The day following this adventure, I received a note informing me that aperson, practising physic, but also a collector and seller of old books, would be glad to see me in an adjoining street. He had, in particular, some"RARE OLD BIBLES. " Another equally stimulant provocative! I went, saw, and... Returned--with scarcely a single trophy. Old Bibles there were--butall of too recent a date: and all in the _Latin_ language. Yet I know nothow it was, but I suffered myself to be prevailed upon to give some twentyflorins for a doubtfully-printed _Avicenna_, and a _Biblia HistoricaMoralisata_. Had I yielded to further importunities, or listened to furtherinformation, I might have filled the large room in which I am nowsitting--and which is by much the handsomest in the hotel[70]--withoak-bound folios, vellum-clad quartos, and innumerable broadsides. But Iresisted every entreaty: I had done sufficient--at least for the firstvisit to the capital of Bavaria. 

And doubtless I have good reason to be satisfied with these Bavarianbook-treasures. There they all lie; within as many strides of me as Mr. Stoeger took across the room; while, more immediately within reach, andeyed with a more frequent and anxious look, repose the _Greek Hours_, the_first Horace_, the _Mentelin German Bible_, and the _Polish ProtestantBible_; all--ALL destined for the cabinet of which Mr. Stoeger made suchenthusiastic mention. 

A truce now to books, and a word or two about society. I arrived here at aseason when Munich is considered to be perfectly empty. None of thenoblesse; no public gaieties; no Chargé d'Affaires--all were flown, uponthe wings of curiosity or of pleasure towards the confines of Italy. But asmy business was rather with Books and bookmen, I sought chiefly the societyof the latter, nor was I disappointed. I shall introduce them one by one. First therefore for the BARON VON MOLL; one of the most vivacious andcolloquial of gentlemen; and who perhaps has had more to do with books thanany one of his degree in Bavaria. I know not even if he have not had two ormore monastic libraries to dispose of--which descended to him as ancestralproperty. I am sure he talked to me of more than one chateau, or countryvilla, completely filled with books; of which he meditated the disposal bypublic or private sale. And this, too--after he had treated with theBritish Museum through the negotiation of our friend the Rev. Mr. Baber, for two or three thousand pounds worth of books, comprehending, chiefly, avery valuable theological collection. The Baron talked of twenty thousandvolumes being here and there, with as much sang-froid and certainty asBonaparte used to talk of disposing of the same number of soldiers incertain directions. 

The other Sunday afternoon I accompanied him to one of his villas, in thedirect road from Munich--near which indeed I had passed in my route hither. Or, rather, speaking more correctly the Baron accompanied me:--as hebargained for my putting a pair of post-horses to my carriage. He wished meto see his books, and his rural domain. The carriage and burden wereequally light, and the road was level and hard. We therefore reached theplace of our destination in a short hour. It was a very pleasant mansion, with a good garden, and several fertile fields of pasture and arable land. The Baron made it his summer residence. His books filled the largest roomin the house. He invited me to look around, to select any volumes that Imight fancy, provided they were not grammatical or lexicographical--for, inthat department, he never wished his strength to be diminished, or hisnumbers to be lessened. I did as he desired me: culled a prettybook-posey;--not quite so blooming as that selected at Lincoln, [71] somedozen years ago, --and, as the sun was setting, voted the remainder of theevening, till supper-time, to a walk with the Baron upon the neighbouringheights. 

The evening was fair and mild, and the Baron was communicative andinstructive. His utterance is rapid and vehement; but with a tone of voiceand mode of action by no means uninteresting. We talked about thepossession of Munich by the French forces, under the command of Moreau, andhe narrated some particulars equally new and striking. Of Moreau, he spokevery handsomely; declaring him to have been a modest, grave, and sensibleman--putting his great military talents entirely out of the question. TheBaron himself, like every respectable inhabitant of Munich, was put undermilitary surveillance. Two grenadiers and a petty officer were quarteredupon him. He told me a curious anecdote about Bonaparte and MarshalLasnes--if I remember rightly, upon the authority of Moreau. It was duringthe crisis of some great battle in Austria, when the fate of the day wasvery doubtful, that Bonaparte ordered Lasnes to make a decisive movementwith his cavalry; Lasnes seemed to hesitate. Bonaparte reiterated theorder, and Lasnes appeared to hesitate again--as if doubting the proprietyof the movement. Bonaparte eyed him with a look of ineffable contempt; andadded--almost fixing his teeth together, in a hissing but biting tone ofsarcasm--"_Est-ce que je t'ai fait trop riche?_" Lasnes dashed his spursinto the sides of his charger, turned away, and prepared to put the commandof his master into execution. 

So much for the Baron Von Moll. The name of SCHLICHTEGROLL was frequentlymentioned in my last letter. It is fitting, therefore, that you should knowsomething of the gentleman to whom this name appertains. Mr. F. Schlichtegroll is the Director in Chief of the Public Library at Munich. Iwas introduced to him in a room contiguous to that where they keep theirmodels of public buildings--such as bridges, barriers, fortifications, &c. Which are extremely beautiful and interesting. The director received me inthe heartiest manner imaginable; and within five minutes of our firstsalutation, I found his arm within my own, as we walked up and down theroom--discoursing about first editions, block-books, and works printed uponvellum. He was delighted to hear of my intention to make a vigorous attack, with pen, ink, and paper, upon the oblong cabinet of _Fifteeners_ andprecious MSS. Of which my last letter made especial mention; and promisedto afford me every facility which his official situation might command. Unluckily for a more frequent intercourse between us, which was equallywished by both parties, the worthy Director was taken ill towards thelatter part of my stay;[72]--not however before I had visited him twice, and been his guest attended by a numerous party. 

Mr. SCHERER is the third figure upon this bibliographical piece of canvass, of which I deem it essential to give you a particular description. He isvery hearty, very alert in the execution of his office, and is "all overEnglish" in his general appearance and manner of conduct. He is learned inoriental literature; is a great reader of English Reviews; and writes ourlanguage with fluency and tolerable correctness. He readily volunteered hiskind offices in translating the German ms. Of _Sir Tristrem_, of which mylast letter made mention--and I have been indebted to him upon everyoccasion, wherein I have solicited his aid, for much friendly and mucheffectual attention. He has, luckily for his own character, vouchsafed to_dine_ with me; although it was with difficulty I could prevail upon him soto do, and for him to allow me to dine at the protracted hour of _four_. After dinner, it was with pleasure, --when surrounded by all thebook-treasures, specified in the early part of this letter, and which werethen lying in detached piles upon the floor[73]--I heard Mr. Schérerexpatiate upon the delight he felt in taking a trip, every summer orautumn, among the snow-capt mountains of the Tyrol; or of burying hiscares, as well as changing his studies and residence, by an excursion alongthe lakes and mountains of Switzerland. "When that season arrives (addedhe--stretching forth both arms in a correspondently ardent manner) I flyaway to these grand scenes of silence and solitude, and forget the works ofman in the contemplation of those of nature!" As he spake thus, my heartwent a good way with him: and I could not but express my regret that Londonwas not situated like the capital of Bavaria. 

Of Mr. BERNHARD, the sub-librarian, I have already spoken frequently; andin a manner, I trust, to shew that I can never be insensible either of hisacquirements or his kindness. He has one of the meekestspirits--accompanied by the firmest decision--which ever marked the humancharacter; and his unconsciousness both of the one and of the other rendershis society the more delightful. 

A temporary farewell to Bibliography, and to Bibliographers. You mayremember that I introduced the name of Hess, in a former part of thisletter; with an intention of bringing the character, to whom it belonged, at a future period before your notice. You will be gratified by the mentionof some particulars connected with him. Mr. Hess has passed his grandclimacteric; and is a Professor of Design, but more especially a verydistinguished Engraver. His figure, his manner of conversation, hisconnections, and his character, are all such--as to render it pleasing tofind them combined with a man of real talent and worth. I had brought withme, from England, a drawing or copy of one of the original portraits atAlthorp--supposed to be painted by Anthony More--with a view of getting itengraved abroad. It is very small, scarcely four inches square. I had shewnit at Paris to Lignon, who _modestly_ said he would execute it in his verybest manner, for 3000 francs! M. Hess saw it--and was in extacies. "Would Iallow him to engrave it?" "Name your price. " "I should think aboutthirty-five guineas. " "I should think (replied I) that that sum wouldentitle me to your best efforts. " "Certainly; and you shall havethem"--rejoined he. I then told him of the extravagance of Lignon. He feltindignant at it. "Not (added he) that I shall execute it in _his_ highlyfinished manner. " I immediately consigned the precious portrait into hishands--with a written agreement to receive the engraving of it next year, at the stipulated sum. [74]

Thus you see I have set Mr. Hess to work in my absence--when I quitMunich--which will be to-morrow, or the following day at farthest. Thisworthy artist won upon me at every interview. His dress and address weretruly gentlemanly; and as he spoke the English language as well as he didthe French, we were of course glad to renew our visits pretty frequently. His anxiety to promote my views, and to afford my companion everyassistance in his power, connected with the Fine Arts, will be long andgratefully remembered by us. [75] But Mr. NOCKHER shall not be passed over"sub silentio. " He is a banker; and I found another FRANCS in thepromptitude and liberality of his offers of pecuniary supply. He, togetherwith Mr. Hess, has tasted the best red wine, at my humble table, that the_Schwartzen Adler_ can afford; and I have quaffed his souchong, in societyin which I should like to have mingled again and again. The subjects ofpictures and prints occupied every moment of our time, and almost everyword of our discussion; and Mr. Nockher shewed me his fine impression ofthe _Dresden Raphael_, in a manner that proved how perfectly well he wasqualified to appreciate the merits of the graphic art. That print, youknow, is considered to be the masterpiece of modern art; and it is alsosaid that the engraver--having entirely finished every portion of it--didNOT LIVE TO SEE A FINISHED PROOF. Mr. Nockher bought it for some three orfour napoleons, and has refused twenty for it. I own that, to my eye, thisprint has more power, expression, and I may say colouring, than almost anywhich I remember to have seen. The original is in the second, or darkerstyle of colouring, of the master; and this engraving of it is as perfect acopy of the manner of the original, as that by Raphael Morghen of the lastSupper of Leonardo da Vinci--so celebrated all over Europe. 

Mr. Nockher is both a good-natured man, and a man of business; and thefacility and general correctness of his mode of speaking the Englishlanguage, renders a communication with him very agreeable. He hasundertaken to forward all my book-purchases to England--with the exceptionof a certain _little Greek duodecimo_, which has taken a marvellous fancyto be the travelling companion of its present master. Mr. Nockher alsopromises to forward all future book-purchases which I may make--and whichmay be directed for him at Munich--on to England. Thus, therefore--when Iquit this place--I may indulge a pleasing anticipation of the future, without any anxieties respecting the past. [76]

And now fare you well. Within twenty-four hours I start from hence, uponrather a _digressive_ excursion; and into which the Baron Von Moll and M. Schlichtegroll have rather coaxed, than reasoned, me. I am to go from henceto _Freysing_ and _Landshut_--and then diverge down, to the right, upon_Salzburg_--situated 'midst snow-clad mountains, and containing a LIBRARYwithin the oldest monastery in Austria. I am to be prepared to be equallystruck with astonishment at the crypt of Freysing, and at the tower ofLandshut--and after having "revelled and rioted" in the gloomy cloistersand sombre apartments of St. Peter's monastery, at Salzburg, I aminstructed to take the _Lake of Gmunden_ in my way to the _Monastery ofChremsminster_--in the direct route to Lintz and Vienna. A world of varietyand of wonder seems therefore to be before me; and as my health has beenrecently improved, from the comparatively cool state of the weather, I feelneither daunted nor depressed at the thought of any difficulties, shouldthere be any, which may await me in the accomplishment of this journey. Mynext, God willing, will assuredly be from Salzburg--when I shall haverested awhile after a whirl of some two hundred miles. 

[66] [See vol. Ii. P. 147. Renouard, _L'Imprim. Des Alde_, vol. I. 36-7. There are however, NOW, I believe, in this country, FIVE copies of this very rare book; of which four are perfect. ]

[67] The copy in question had, in 1595, been the property of F. Gregorius, prior of the monastery of Sts. Ulric and Afra at Augsbourg: as that possessor's autograph denotes. 

[68] The principal of these "tempting articles" were a fine first _Statius_ of 1502, _Asconius Pedianus_, 1522. _Cicero de Officiis_, 1517, and _Leonicerus de Morbo Gallico_--with the leaf of errata: wanting in the copy in St. James's Place. But perhaps rarer than either, the _Laurentius Maoli_ and _Averrois_, each of 1497--intended for _presents_. But Mr. Stoeger had forgotten these intended presents--and _charged_ them at a good round sum. I considered his word as his bond--and told him that honest Englishmen were always in the habit of so considering the words of honest Germans. I threatened him with the return of the whole cargo, including even the beloved _Greek Hours_. Mr. Stoeger seemed amazed: hesitated: relented: and adhered to his original position. Had he done otherwise, I should doubtless have erased the epithet "honestissimus, " in all the copies of the sale catalogue above alluded to, which might come within my notice, and placed a marginal emendation of "avidissimus. "

[69] It may be a novel, and perhaps gratifying, sight to the reader to throw his eye over a list (of a few out of the fifty articles) like the following: _Flor. Kreutz. Liber Moralizat. Biblic. Ulm_. 1474. Folio. Fine copy 11 _Biblia Vulg. Hist. Ital. Venet. _ Giunta 1492. Fol. 8 _Horatius. Venet. _ 1494. 4to. Fig. Lig. Incis. 11 _Cronica del rey don Iuan_. _Sevilla_. 1563. 4to. 11 _Breviarium. Teutonicè_. 4to. In MEMBRANIS. A most beautiful and spotless book. It contains only the Pars Hyemalis of the cathedral service. 11 _Dictionarium Pauperum_. _Colon_. 1504. 8vo. 1 _Pars quart. Ind. Orient. Francof_. 1601. 5 30 _Fabulæ Æsopicæ_. _Cura Brandt_. 1501. Folio. Perhaps a matchless copy; in original binding of wood. Full of cuts 55 Thirteen different opuscula, at one florin each; many very curious and uncommon 13 The Lord's Prayer and Creed--in the German language--printed by "_Fricz Crewsner_, " in 1472: folio: _broadside_. Perhaps UNIQUE 22

 The florin, at the time of my residence at Munich, was about 1s. 9d. 

[70] [However severely I may have expressed myself in a preceding page (105) of the general condition of this huge Inn, yet I cannot but gaze upon the subjoined view of it with no ordinary sensation of delight when I remember that the three-windowed room, on the first floor, to the right--close to the corner--was the room destined to be graced by the BOOK TREASURES above mentioned. This view may also serve as a general specimen of the frontage of the larger Inns in Bavaria. ]

 [Illustration]

[71] [All the _book-world_ has heard mention of THE LINCOLNE NOSEGAY, --a small handful of flowers, of choice hues, and vigorous stems, culled within the precincts of one of the noblest cathedrals in Europe. Neither Covent Garden at home, nor the Marché aux Fleurs at Paris, could boast of such a posey. I learn, however, with something approaching to horror, that the Nosegay in question has been counterfeited. A _spurious_ edition (got up by some unprincipled speculator, and, I must add, bungling hand--for the typographical discrepancy is obvious) is abroad. Roxburghers, look well to your book-armouries! The foe may have crept into them, and exchanged your steel for painted wood. ]

[72] There is something so hearty and characteristic in the Director's last letter to me, that I hope to be pardoned if I here subjoin a brief extract from it. "M. Schérer vient me quitter, et m'annoncer que votre départ est fixé pour demain. Jamais maladie--auxquelles, heureusement, je suis très rarement exposé--m'est survenu aussi mal-à-propos qu'à cette fois-ci. J'avois compté de jouir encore au moins quelques jours, après mon rétablissement, de votre entretien, et jetter les fondemens d'une amitié collegiale pour la future. La nouvelle, que M. Schérer m'apporte, me désole. J'avois formé le plan de vous accompagner pour voir quelqu'uns de nos Institutions rémarquables, principalement _La Lithographie_, "Vana Somnia!" Votre résolution de quitter Munich plutôt que je n'avois pensé, détruit mes esperances. N'est-ce-pas possible que vous passiez par Munich à votre retour de Vienne? Utinam! Combien de choses restent, sur lesquelles j'esperais de causer et de traiter avec vous! "I bono alite: pede fausto. "

 [Autograph]

 [The author of this Letter is NO MORE!]

[73] See the note, p. 157 ante. 

[74] This Engraving appears in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_, vol. I. P. 246. On my return to England, it was necessary to keep up a correspondence with the amiable and intelligent character in question. I make no apology, either to the reader, or to the author of the Epistle, for subjoining a copy of one of these letters--premising, that it relates to fac-similes of several old copper cuts in the Public Library at Munich, as well as to his own engraving of the above-mentioned portrait. There is something throughout the whole of this letter so hearty, and so thoroughly original, that I am persuaded it will be perused with extreme gratification:

 _Munich, 17 May, 1819. _

 Dear and Reverend Sir;

 I am a good old fellow, and a passable engraver; but a very bad Correspondent. You are a ... And minister of a religion which forgive all faults of mankind; and so I hope that you will still pardon me the retardation of mine answer. I am now 65 years old, and have never had any sickness in mine life, but I have such an averseness against writing, that only the _sight_ of an ink-horn, pen and paper, make me feeling all sort of fevers of the whole medicinal faculty;--and so I pray that you would forgive me the brevity of mine letters. Following your order, I send you jointly the first proof prints of those plates still (already) finished. The plate of that beautiful head of an English artist, is not yet so far advanced; but in about six weeks you will have it--and during this time, I expect your answer and direction to whom I shall deliver the whole. I wish and hope heartily that the fac-similes and portraits would be correspondent with your expectation. 

 I hold it for necessary and interesting, to give you a true copy of that old print--"_Christ in the lap of God the Father_. " You'll see that this print is cutten round, and carefully pasted upon another paper on a wooden band of a book: which proves not only a high respect for a precious antiquity, but likewise that this print is much older than the date of 1462--which is written in red ink, over the cutten outlines, of that antique print. You may be entirely assured of the fidelity of both fac-similes. Now I pray you heartily to remember my name to our dear Mr. Lewis, with my friendliest compliments, and told him that the work on _Lithography_ is now finished, and that he shall have it by the first occasion. In expectation of your honorable answer, I assure you of the highest consideration and respect of

 Your most obedient humble Servant, [Autograph]

[75] [This GRAPHIC WORTHY now _ceases to exist_. He died in his seventy-first year--leaving behind, the remembrance of virtues to be reverenced and of talents to be imitated. ]

[76] [Another OBITUARY presses closely upon the preceding--but an Obituary which rends one's heart to dwell upon:--for a kinder, a more diligent, and more faithful Correspondent than was Mr. Nockher, it has never been my good fortune to be engaged with. Almost while writing the _above_ passage, this unfortunate gentleman ... DESTROYED himself:--from embarrassment of circumstances!]

LETTER VII. 

FREYSING. LANDSHUT. ALTÖTING. SALZBURG. THE MONASTERY OF ST. PETER. 

_Salzburg; Golden Ship, Aug. 23, 1818. _

MY DEAR FRIEND;

If ever I wished for those who are dear to me in England, to be mycompanions during any part of this "_antiquarian_ and _picturesque_ tour, "(for there are comparatively few, I fear, who would like to have beensharers of the "_bibliographical_" department of it) it has been on theroute from Munich to this place: first, darting up to the north; andsecondly, descending gradually to the south; and feasting my eyes, duringthe descent, upon mountains of all forms and heights, winding through acountry at once cultivated and fertile, and varied and picturesque. Yes, myfriend, I have had a glimpse, and even more than a glimpse, of what may becalled ALPINE SCENERY: and have really forgotten Fust, Schoeffher, andMentelin, while contemplating the snow-capt heights of the _Gredig_, _Walseberg_, and _Untersberg_:--to say nothing of the _Gross Klokner_, which raises its huge head and shoulders to the enormous height of 12, 000feet above the level of the sea. 

These be glorious objects!--but I have only gazed; and, gazed at a distanceof some twenty or thirty miles. Surrounded as I am, at this moment, --in oneof the most marvellous and romantic spots in Europe--in the vicinity oflakes, mountain-torrents, trout-streams, and salt-mines, --how can youexpect to hear any thing about MSS. And PRINTED BOOKS? They shall not, however, be _wholly_ forgotten; for as I always endeavour to make mynarrative methodical, I must of necessity make mention of the celebratedlibrary of INGOLDSTADT, (of which Seemiller has discoursed so learnedly ina goodly quarto volume, ) now, with the University of the same place, transferred to LANDSHUT--where I slept on the first night of my departurefrom Munich. 

A secret, but strong magnetic power, is pulling me yet more southerly, towards _Inspruck_ and _Italy_. No saint in the golden legend was ever moretortured by temptation, than I have been for the last twenty-four hours ... With the desire of visiting those celebrated places. Thrice has someinvisible being--some silver-tongued sylph--not mentioned, I apprehend, inthe nomenclature of the Rosicrusian philosophy, whispered the word ... "ROME ... " in mine ear--and thrice have I replied in the response... "VIENNA!" I am therefore firmly fixed: immoveably resolved ... And everysoutherly attraction shall be deserted for the capital of Austria: havingdetermined to mingle among the Benedictin and Augustin monks of_Chremsminster_, _St. Florian_, and _Mölk_--and, in the bookish treasuresof their magnificent establishments, to seek and obtain something which mayrepay the toil and expense of my journey. 

But why do I talk of monastic delights only in _contemplation_? I have_realized_ them. I have paced the cloisters of St. Peter's, themother-convent of Austria: have read inscriptions, and examined ornaments, upon tombstones, of which the pavement of these cloisters is chieflycomposed: have talked bad Latin with the principal, and indifferently goodFrench with the librarian--have been left alone in the library--madememoranda, or rather selected books for which a _valuable consideration_has been proposed--and, in short, fancied myself to be thoroughly initiatedin the varieties of the Bavarian and Austrian characters. Indeed, I havealmost the conceit to affirm that this letter will be worth both postageand preservation. 

Let me "begin at the beginning. " On leaving Munich, I had resolved upondining at Freysingen, or _Freysing_; as well to explore the books of Mr. Mozler, living there--and one of the most "prying" of the bibliopolisticfraternity throughout Germany--as to examine, with all imaginableattention, the celebrated Church to which a monastery had been formerlyattached--and its yet more celebrated _Crypt_. All my Munich friendsexhorted me to descend into this crypt; and my curiosity had been not alittle sharpened by the lithographic views of it (somewhat indifferentlyexecuted) which I had seen and purchased at Munich. Some of my Munichfriends considered the crypt of Freysing to be coeval with Charlemagne. This was, at least, a very romantic conjecture. 

The morning was gray and chill, when we left the _Schwartzen Adler_; but aswe approached Garching, the first stage, the clouds broke, the sun shoneforth, and we saw Freysing, (the second stage) situated upon a commandingeminence, at a considerable distance. In our way to Garching, the riverIser and the plains of Hohenlinden lay to the right; upon each of which, asI gazed, I could not but think alternately of MOREAU and CAMPBELL. You willreadily guess wherefore. The former won the memorable battle ofHohenlinden--fought in the depth of winter--by which the Austrians werecompletely defeated, and which led to the treaty of Luneville: and thelatter (that is, our Thomas Campbell) celebrated that battle in an_Ode_--of which I never know how to speak in sufficient terms ofadmiration: an ode, which seems to unite all the fire of Pindar with allthe elegance of Horace; of which, parts equal Gray in sublimity, andCollins in pathos. 

We drove to the best, if not the only, Inn at Freysing; and, ordering alate dinner, immediately visited the cathedral;--not however without takingthe shop of Mozler, the bookseller, in our way, and finding--to mymisfortune--that the owner was absent on a journey; and his sister, theresident, perfectly ignorant of French. We then ascended towards thecathedral, which is a comparatively modern building; at least every thing_above_ ground is of that description. The CRYPT, however, more thananswered my expectations. I should have no hesitation in calling itperfectly unique; as I have neither seen, nor heard, nor read of any thingthe least resembling it. The pillars, which support the roof, have monsterscrawling up their shafts--devouring one another, as one sees them in themargins of the earlier illuminated MSS. 

The altar beneath Our Lady's chapel was a confused mass of lumber andrubbish; but, if I were to select--from all the strange and gloomyreceptacles, attached to places of religious worship, which I have seensince quitting the shores of my own country--any ONE SPOT, in preference toanother, for the celebration of mysterious rites--it should be the CRYPT ofthe CATHEDRAL of FREYSING. And perhaps I should say that portions of itmight be as old as the latter end of the eleventh century. From thefoundation, we ascended to the very summit of the building; and from thetop of the tower, had a most extensive and complete view of the plains of_Hohenlinden_, the rapid _Iser_, and the gray mist of Munich in thedistance. I was much struck with a large bell, cast about fourscore yearsago; the exterior of which was adorned by several inscriptions, and ratherwhimsical ornaments. Having gratified a curiosity of this kind, mycompanion and valet left me, for a stroll about the town; when I requestedthe guide (who could luckily talk a little bad French) to shew me theLIBRARY belonging to the monastery formerly attached to the cathedral. Hetold me that it was the mere relics of a library:--the very shadow of ashade. 

Indeed it was quickly obvious that there were certain _hiatuses_ upon theshelves--which told their own tale pretty readily. The books, onceoccupying them, had been taken to Munich. The room is light, cheerful, andeven yet well garnished with books: most of them being in white forel orvellum binding. There were Bibles, out of number, about the beginning ofthe sixteenth century; and an abundant sprinkling of glosses, decretals, canon law, and old fashioned scholastic lore of the same period. Nevertheless, I was glad to have examined it; and do not know that I havevisited many more desirable book-apartments since I left England. In my wayto the inn, I took a more leisurely survey of the collection of Mr. Mozler:but his sister had not returned from vespers, and I was left absolutelyalone--with the exception of a female servant; who, pointing to thebook-room above stairs, as the supposed fittest place for my visit, betookherself to her culinary occupations. Since the sight of the premises of theyounger Manoury at Caen, [77] I had never witnessed such a scene ofdarkness, lumber, and confusion:--yet I must do Mr. Mozler the justice tosay, that there was much which might have repaid the toil of a minuteexamination. But I was pressed for time: and the appetites of my travellingcompanions might be sharpened so as to stand in need of an immediate attackupon the cotelette and wine. 

We dined as expeditiously as ever the Trojans or Grecians did, on expectinga sally from the foe. The red wine was, I think, the most delicious I hadthen drank in Germany. A little before six, we left Freysing for_Moosburg_: a ten mile stage; but we had not got a quarter of a league uponour journey, when we discovered, to the right, somewhat in our rear, a morecomplete view of the Tyrolese mountains than we had yet seen. They appearedto be as huge monsters, with overtopping heads, disporting themselves in anelement of their own--many thousand feet in the air! It was dusk when wechanged horses at _Moosburg_: and the moon, then pretty far advancedtowards the full, began to supply the light of which we stood so much inneed. _Landshut_ was our next and final stage; but it was unlucky for thefirst view of a church, of which the tower is considered to be the highestin Bavaria, that we were to see it at such a moment. The air of the eveningwas mild, and the sky was almost entirely covered by thin flaky clouds, aswe pushed on for Landshut. On our immediate approach to it, the valet toldus that he well remembered the entrance of the French into Landshut, onBonaparte's advance to Munich and Vienna. He was himself in the rear of theassault--attending upon his master, one of the French generals. He said, that the French entered the further end of the town from that where weshould make our entrance; and that, having gained a considerable eminence, by a circuitous route, above the river, unobserved, they rushedforward--bursting open the barriers--and charging the Austrians at thepoint of the bayonet. The contest was neither long nor sanguinary. Aprudent surrender saved the town from pillage, and the inhabitants fromslaughter. 

On entering Landshut, without having caught any thing like a determinedview of the principal church, we found the centre of the principal streetentirely occupied by booths and stalls, for an approaching fair--to takeplace within a few following days. The line of wooden buildings couldscarcely extend less than half a mile. We drove to the principal inn, whichwas spacious and _tolerably_ clean; bespoke good beds, and found everyappearance of comfort. I was resolved to devote the next day entirely tothe PUBLIC LIBRARY--attached to the University, brought hither fromIngoldstadt. Of course I had been long acquainted with the generalcharacter of the early-printed books, from the valuable work ofSeemiller;[78] and was resolved to make especial enquiry, in the firstplace, for the Aldine duodecimo of the _Greek Hours_, of which you havealready heard so much. I carried with me a letter to Professor SIEBENKEES, the Head Librarian. In short, I anticipated a day of bibliographical"joyaunce. "

I was not disappointed in my expectations. The day was as beautifulwithout, as I found it profitable within doors. The Professor was allkindness, and was pleased to claim a long and intimate acquaintance withme, through certain works which need not be here mentioned: but it would bethe height of affectation _not_ to avow the satisfaction I felt inwitnessing a thoroughly cut-open, and tolerably well-thumbed copy, of the_Bibl. Spenceriana_ lying upon his table. I instantly commenced theexamination of the library, while the Professor as readily offered hisservices of assistance. "Where are your _Aldine Greek Hours_ of 1497?"observed I. "Alas, Sir, that book exists no longer here!"--replied theProfessor, in a melancholy tone of voice, and with an expression ofcountenance which indicated more than was meant by his _words_. "Nevertheless, (rejoined I) Seemiller describes it as having been atIngoldstadt. " "He does so--but in the conveyance of the books from thencehither, it has _somehow_ disappeared. "[79] Again the Professor _looked_more significantly than he _spake_. "What is invisible cannot beseen"--observed I--"and therefore allow me to take notes of what is beforemy eyes. " "Most willingly and cheerfully. Here is every thing you wish. Themore you write, the greater will be my satisfaction; although, after Parisand Munich, there is scarcely any thing worthy of particular description. But ere you begin your labours, allow me to introduce you to the severalrooms in which the books are contained. "

I expressed great pleasure in complying with the Professor's request, andfollowed him into every apartment. This library, my dear friend, is placedin one of the prettiest situations imaginable. Some meandering branches ofthe Iser intersect and fertilize considerable tracts of meadow land;equally rich in colour and (as I learnt) in produce: and terminated by somegently swelling hills, quite in the vicinity of the town. The whole had aperfectly English aspect. The rooms were numerous, and commanded a varietyof views. They were well lighted by side windows, and the shelves andwainscots were coloured chiefly in white. One small hexagonal closet, orcabinet, on the first floor--(as is indeed the whole suite of apartments)caught my fancy exceedingly, and won my very heart. The view before it, orrather from three of its six sides, was exhilirating in the extreme. "HereMr. Professor, quoth I, (gently laying hold of his left arm) here will Icome, and, if in any spot, put together my materials for a _third_ editionof the BIBLIOMANIA. " The worthy Professor, for a little moment, thought meserious--and quickly replied "By all means do so: and you shall beaccommodated with every thing necessary for carrying so laudable a designinto execution. " It was a mere bibliomaniacal vision:[80] dissipated thevery moment I had quitted the apartment for another. 

I shall now give you the result of my examination of a few of the rarer andearly-printed books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY of Landshut. And first ofMANUSCRIPTS. An _Evangelistarium_, probably of the tenth century, is worthparticular notice; if it be only on the score of its scription--which isperfectly beautiful: the most so of any, of such a remote period, which Ihave ever seen. It is a folio volume, bound in wood, with a stampedparchment cover of about the end of the fifteenth century. They possess acopy of the _oldest written Laws of Bavaria_; possibly of the twelfth--butcertainly of the thirteenth century. It is a duodecimo MS. Inlaid in aquarto form. No other MS. Particularly struck my fancy, in the absence ofall that was Greek or Roman: but a very splendid _Polish Missal_, in 8vo. Which belonged to Sigismund, King of Poland, in the sixteenth century, seemed worthy of especial notice. The letters are graceful and elegant; butthe style of art is heavy, although not devoid of effect. The binding iscrimson velvet, with brass knobs, and a central metallicornament--apparently more ancient than the book itself. This latter mayhave been possibly taken from another volume. 

Of the _Printed Books_--after the treasures of this kind seen (as theProfessor intimated) at Paris and Munich--there was comparatively verylittle which claimed attention. They have a cropt and stained copy ofMentelin's _German Bible_, but quite perfect: two copies of the _supposed_first _German Bible_, for one of which I proposed an exchange in a copy ofthe B. S. And of the _Ædes Althorpianæ_ as soon as this latter work shouldbe published. The proposition was acceded to on the part of the HeadLibrarian, and it will be forwarded to the honest and respectable firm ofJohn and Arthur Arch, booksellers; who, previously to my leaving England, had requested me to make something like a similar purchase for them--shoulda fine copy of this German Bible present itself for sale. [81]

Here I saw Mentelin's edition of the _De Civitate Dei_ of _St. Austin_: anda good sound copy of the very rare edition of _Mammotrectus_, printed by_Helias de Helie_, in 1470: a beautiful copy of _Martin Brand's Psalter_ of1486, printed at Leipsic, in 4to. In a large square gothic type; and aduplicate copy of the Leipsic Psalter of the preceding year, printed by_Conrad Kachelovez_, in 4to. Which latter I obtained for the library in St. James's Place. There were at least ten copies of the early Block Books; ofwhich the _Ars Memorandi_ and the _Anti-Christ_ (with extracts inserted inthe latter from the B. S. ) appeared to be the more ancient and interesting. But I must not forget to mention a very indifferent and imperfect copy ofthe _Latin Bible of Fust_, of 1462, UPON VELLUM. A few leaves in eachvolume are wanting. Here too I saw the _Pfarzival_ of 1477 (as atStrasbourg) printed in a metrical form. 

As I got among the books of the _sixteenth_ century, I was much moregratified with the result of my researches. I will begin with a very choicearticle: which is nothing less than a copy of the _ComplutensianPolyglott_, purchased by Eckius, in 1521, of the celebrated DemetriusChalcondylas--as the following coeval ms. Memorandum attests: "Rome emptabiblia ista P Eckium P xiiij ducatis largis a Demetrio Calcondyla anno1521; mortuo iam Leone Papa in Decembri. " The death of Leo is hereparticularly mentioned, because, during his life, it is said that thatPontiff prohibited the sale of the work in question. The copy is fair andsound; but both this, and a duplicate copy, wants the sixth volume, beingthe Dictionary or Vocabulary. The mention of Eckius leads me to notice alittle anecdote connected with him. He was, as you may have read, one ofthe most learned, most eloquent, and most successful of Luther'santagonists. He was also the principal theological Professor in theUniversity of Ingoldstadt. They preserve at Landshut, brought from theformer place, the chair and the doctor's cap of their famous Anti-Lutheranchampion. You see both of these in one of the principal apartments of thePublic Library. I was requested to sit in the chair of the renowned Eckius, and to put his doctorial bonnet upon my head. I did both:--but, if I hadsat for a century to come, I should never have fancied myself Eckius ... For more reasons than _one_. 

The Sub Librarian, who is a Catholic, (Professor Siebenkees being aProtestant) has shewn great good sense in preserving all the tracts, whichhave fallen in his way, both _for_ and _against_ the Lutheran controversy. You go between two small book-cases, or sets of shelves, and find _Luther_in front, and _Eckius_ and his followers in the rear of you; or vice versa. A considerable number of rare and curious little pieces of _Erasmus_ and_Melancthon_, are mixed in this collection, which is far from being smalleither in number or value. In this interesting collection, I saw a goodcopy of Ross's work against Luther, of the date of 1523, which appeared tome to be printed by Pynson. [82] It had the autograph of Sir ThomasMore--("_Thom^{9} mor^{9}"--_) who indeed is said to have been the authorof the work. This very copy belonged to Eckius, and was given to him by theauthor, when Eckius came over to England in 1525: the fact being thusattested in the hand-writing of the latter: "_Codex iste dono datus estmihi Johanni Eckio ab illius autore in Anglia, dum visendi cupidus inInsulam traiecissem, 1525, Augusto x_. " The worthy Professor next put intomy hands what he considered to be an _absolutely unique_ copy of _Der VeisRitter_, in 1514, folio: adding, that no other copy of the adventures ofthe _White Knight_, of the _same_ date, was known to bibliographers. Iassented to the observation--equally from courtesy and sheer ignorance. Butsurely this is somewhat difficult to believe. 

There was nothing further that demanded a distinct registry; and so, makingmy bow, and shaking hands with the worthy Librarian very heartily, Iquitted this congenial spot;--not however before I had been introduced to aProfessor of botany (whose name has now escaped me) who was busily engagedin making extracts in the reading room, with a short pipe by the side ofhim, and a small red tasselled cap upon his head. He had an expressivecountenance; understood our language so as to read Shakespeare withfacility, and even with rapture: and to a question of mine, whether he wasnot much gratified with Schlegel's critical remarks upon that dramatist, hereplied, that "he did not admire them so much, as, from the EdinburghReview, the English appeared to do. " To another question--"which ofShakspeare's plays pleased him most?" he replied, unhesitatingly, "_Romeoand Juliet_. " I own, I should have thought that the mystical, orphilosophy-loving, brain of a German would have preferred _Hamlet_. 

On leaving the library, I surveyed the town with tolerably minuteattention. After Munich, it appeared sufficiently small. Its populationindeed scarcely exceeds 8000. The day turned out very beautiful, and myfirst and principal attention was directed to _St. Martin's Church_; ofwhich the tower (as I think I before told you) is considered to be full 420feet in height, and the loftiest in Bavaria. But its height is itsprincipal boast. Both in detail, and as a whole, the architecture ismiserably capricious and tasteless. It is built of red brick. Many of themonuments in the church-yard, but more particularly some mural ones, struckme as highly characteristic of the country. Among these rude specimens ofsculpture, the representation of _Our Saviour's Agony in the Garden_--thefavourite subject in Bavaria--was singularly curious to a fresh eye. It maybe between two and three hundred years old; but has suffered no injury. They have, in the principal street, covered walks, for foot-passengers, ina piazza-fashion, a little resembling those at Chester: but neither so oldnor so picturesque. The intermixture of rural objects, such as trees andgrass plats--in the high street of Landshut--renders a stroll in the townexceedingly agreeable to the lover of picturesque scenery. The booths andstalls were all getting ready for the fair--which I learnt was to lastnearly a fortnight: and which I was too thankful to have escaped. 

We left Landshut on a fine sun-shining afternoon, purposing to sleep at thesecond stage--_Neümarkt_--(Angl. "Newmarket") in the route to Salzburg. _Neümarkt_ is little better than a small village, but we fared well inevery respect at the principal, if not the only, inn in the place. Our bedswere even luxurious. Neümarkt will be quickly forgotten: but the followingstage--or _Altöting_--will not be so easily banished from our recollection. We reached it to a late breakfast--after passing through the most fertileand beautifully varied country which I had yet seen--and keeping almostconstantly in view the magnificent chain of the Tyrolese mountains, intothe very heart of which we seemed to be directing our course. ALTÖTING issituated upon an eminence. We drove into the Place, or Square, and alightedat what seemed to be a large and respectable inn. Two ladies and twogentlemen had just arrived before us, from Munich, by a different route:and while I was surveying them, almost mistaking them for English, and hadjust exchanged salutations, my valet came and whispered in my ear that"these good folks were come on a pilgrimage to the shrine of the _BlackVirgin_. " While I was wondering at this intelligence, the valet continued:"you see that small church in the centre of the square--it is _there_ wherethe richest shrine in Bavaria is deposited; and to-day is a 'high day' withthe devotees who come to worship. " On receiving this information, we allthree prepared to visit this mean-looking little church. I can hardlydescribe to you with sufficient accuracy, the very singular, and to mealtogether new, scene which presented itself on reaching the church. Thereis a small covered way--in imitation of cloisters--which goes entirelyround it. The whole of the interior of these cloisters is covered withlittle pictures, images, supposed relics--and, in short votive offerings ofevery description, to the Holy Virgin, to whom the church is dedicated. Theworshippers believe that the mother of Christ was an _African_ by birth, and therefore you see little black images of the virgin stuck up in everydirection. At first, I mistook the whole for a parcel of pawnbrokers shopsnear each other: and eyed the several articles with a disposition, more orless, to become a purchaser of a few. 

But the sound of the chant, and the smell of the frankincense, broke inupon my speculations, and called my attention to the interior. I enteredwith a sort of rush of the congregation. This interior struck me as beingscarcely thirty feet by twenty; but the eye is a deceitful rule in thesecases. However, I continued to advance towards the altar; the heat, at thesame time, being almost suffocating. An iron grating separated the littlechapel and shrine of our _Black Lady_ from the other portion of thebuilding; and so numerous, so constant, and apparently so close, had beenthe pressure and friction of each succeeding congregation, for probablymore than two centuries, that some of these rails, or bars, originally atleast one inch square, had been worn to _half_ the size of their pristinedimensions. It was with difficulty, on passing them, that I could obtain apeep at the altar; which, however, I saw sufficiently distinctly toperceive that it was entirely covered with silver vases, cups, dishes, andother _solid_ proofs of devotional ardour--which in short seemed to reachto the very roof. Having thus far gratified my curiosity, I retreated asquickly as possible; for not a window was open, and the little light whichthese windows emitted, together with the heat of the place, produced sodisagreeable an effect as to make me apprehensive of sudden illness. Onreaching the outward door, and enjoying the freedom of respiration, I madea sort of secret, but natural vow, that I would never again visit theshrine of _Our Black Lady_ on a festival day. 

An excellent breakfast--together with the neatness and civility of thefemale attendants--soon counter-acted the bad effects of the hydrogencontained within the walls of the place of worship we had just quitted. Every thing around us wore a cheerful and pleasing aspect; inasmuch asevery thing reminded us of our own country. The servants were numerous, andall females; with their hair braided in a style of elegance which would nothave disgraced the first drawing-room in London. We quaffed coffee out ofcups which were perfectly of the Brobdignagian calibre; and the bread hadthe lightness and sweetness of cake. Between eleven and twelve, CharlesRohfritsch (alias our valet) announced that the carriage and horses were atthe door; and on springing into it, we bade adieu to the worthy landladyand her surrounding attendants, in a manner quite natural to travellers whohave seen something very unusual and interesting, and who have in otherrespects been well satisfied with good fare, and civil treatment. Not oneof the circle could speak a word of French; so I told Charles to announceto them that we would not fail to spread the fame of their coffee, eggs, and bread, all over England! They laughed heartily--and then gave us afarewell salutation ... By dropping very-formal curtesies--theircountenances instantly relapsing into a corresponding gravity ofexpression. 

In three minutes the inn, the square, and the church of the _Black Virgin_, were out of sight. The postilion put his bugle to his mouth, and played alively air--in which the valet immediately joined. The musical infatuation, for an instant, extended to ourselves; for it was a tune which we had oftenheard in England, and which reminded me, in particular, of days of pasthappiness--never to return! But the sky was bright, the breeze soft, theroad excellent, and the view perfectly magnificent. It was evident that wewere now nearing the Tyrolese mountains. "At the foot of yonder second, sharp-pointed hill, lies SALZBURG"--said the valet: on receiving hisintelligence from the post-boy. We seemed to be yet some twenty milesdistant. To the right of the hill pointed out, the mountains rose with aloftier swell, and, covered by snow, the edges or terminations of theirsummits seemed to melt into the sky. 

Our road now became more hilly, and the time flew away quickly, without ourmaking an apparently proportionate progress towards Salzburg. At length wereached _Burckhausen_; which is flanked by the river _Salz_ on one side, and defended by a lofty citadel on the other. It struck us, upon the whole, as rather a romantic spot: but the road, on entering the town, is in someplaces fearfully precipitous. The stratum was little better than rock. Wewere not long in changing horses, and made off instantly for _Tittmaning_;the last stage but one on that side of Salzburg. The country wore a morepleasing aspect. Stately trees spread their dark foliage on each side ofthe road; between the stems, and through the branches of which, we caughtmany a "spirit-stirring" view of the mountains in the neighbourhood ofSalzburg--which, on our nearer approach, seemed to have attained doubletheir first grandeur. After having changed horses at _Tittmaning_, andenjoyed a delightfully picturesque ride from Burckhausen thither, we dinedat the following stage, _Lauffen_; a poor, yet picturesque andwildly-situated, large village. While the dinner was preparing, I walked tothe extremity of the street where the inn is situated, and examined a smallchurch, built there upon high ground. The cloisters were very striking;narrow and low, but filled with mural monuments, of a singular variety ofcharacter. It was quite evident, from numberless exhibitions ofart--connected with religious worship--along the road-side, or attached tochurches--that we had now entered a territory quite different from that ofBaden, Wirtemberg, and even the northern part of Bavaria. Small crucifixes, and a representation of the _Agony in the Garden_, &c, presented themselvesfrequently to our view; and it seemed as if Austria were a land of evengreater superstition than Bavaria. 

On concluding our dinner, and quitting Lauffen, it grew dusk, and the rainbegan to fall in a continued drizzling shower. "It always rains atSalzburg, sir, " said the valet--repeating the information of the post boy. This news made us less cheerful on leaving Lauffen than we were on quitting_Altöting_: but "hope travelled through"--even till we reached the banks ofthe river Salz, within a mile or two of Salzburg--where the Austriandominions begin, and those of Bavaria terminate. Our carriage was herestopped, and the trunks were examined, very slightly, on each side of theriver. The long, wooden, black and yellow-striped bar of Austria--reachingquite across the road--forbade further progress, till such examination, anda payment of four or five florins, as the barrier-tax, --had been compliedwith. I had imagined that, if our trunks had been examined on _one_ side ofthe water, there needed no examination of them on the _other_; unless wehad had intercourse with some water fiend in the interval. It seemed, however, that I reasoned illogically. We were detained full twenty minutes, by a great deal of pompous palaver--signifying nothing--on the part of theAustrian commissioner; so that it was quite dark when we entered thebarriers of the town of Salzburg:--mountains, trees, meadows, and rivuletshaving been long previously obliterated from our view. 

The abrupt ascents and descents of the streets--and the quiveringreflection of the lights from the houses, upon the surface of the river_Salz_--soon convinced us that we were entering a very extraordinary town. But all was silent: neither the rattling of carriages, nor the tread offoot-passengers, nor the voice of the labourer, saluted our ear on enteringSalzburg--when we drove briskly to the _Gölden-Schiff_, in the _Place de laCathedrale_, whence I am now addressing you. This inn is justly consideredto be the best in the town; but what a melancholy reception--on ourarrival! No rush of feet, no display of candles, nor elevation of voices, nor ringing of the bell--- as at the inns on our great roads inEngland--but ... Every body and every, thing was invisible. Darkness anddulness seemed equally to prevail. One feeble candle at length glimmered atthe extremity of a long covered arch-way, while afterwards, to the right, came forward two men--with what seemed to be a farthing candle betweenthem, and desired to know the object of our halting? "Beds, and a two-day'sresidence in your best suite of apartments, " replied I quickly--for theyboth spoke the French language. We were made welcome by one of them, whoproved to be the master, and who helped us to alight. A long, and latterlya wet journey, had completely fatigued us--and after mounting up one highstair-case, and rambling along several loosely-floored corridors--wereached our apartments, which contained each a very excellent bed. Waxcandles were placed upon the tables: a fire was lighted: coffee brought up;and a talkative, and civil landlord soon convinced us that we had no reasonto grumble at our quarters. [83]

On rising the next morning, we gazed upon almost every building withsurprise and delight; and on catching a view of the CITADEL--in the background, above the Place de la Cathedrale--it seemed as if it were situatedupon an eminence as lofty as Quito. I quickly sought the _Monastery of St. Peter_;--the oldest in the Austrian dominions. I had heard, and even readabout its library; and imagined that I was about to view books, of which nobibliographer had ever yet--even in a vision--received intelligence. Butyou must wait a little ere I take you with me to that monastic library. 

There is a pleasing chime of bells, which are placed outside of a smallcupola in the _Place_, in which stands the cathedral. I had heard thischime during the night--when I would rather have heard ... Any thing else. What struck me the first thing, on looking out of window, was, the quantityof grass--such as Ossian describes within the walls of_Belcluthah_--growing between the pavement in the square. "Wherefore wasthis?" "Sir, (replied the master of the Gölden Schiff) this town isundergoing a gradual and melancholy depopulation. Before the late war, there were 27, 000 inhabitants in Salzburg: at present, there are scarcely15, 000. This _Place_ was the constant resort of foreigners as well astownsmen. They filled every portion of it. Now, you observe there is only anarrow, worn walk, which gives indication of the route of a few stragglingpedestrians. Even the very chimes of yonder bells (which must have_delighted_ you so much at every third hour of the night!) have lost theirpleasing tone;--and sound as if they foreboded still further desolation toSalzburg. " The man seemed to feel as he spoke; and I own that I was touchedby so animated and unexpected a reply. 

I examined two or three old churches, of the Gothic order, of which I havealready forgotten the names--unless they be those of _Ste. Trinité_ and_St. Sebastien_. In one of them--it being a festival--there was a verycrowded congregation; while the priest was addressing his flock from thesteps of the altar, in a strain of easy and impassioned eloquence. WhereverI went--and upon almost whatever object I gazed--there appeared to betraces of curious, if not of remote, antiquity. Indeed the whole townabounds with such--among which are some Roman relics, which have beenrecently (1816) described by Goldenstein, in a quarto volume publishedhere, and written in the German language. [84]

But you are impatient for the MONASTERY OF ST. PETER. [85] Your curiosityshall be no longer thwarted; and herewith I proceed to give you an accountof my visit to that venerable and secluded spot--the abode of silence andof sanctity. It was my first appearance in a fraternity of MONKS; and thoseof the order of ST. BENEDICT. I had no letter of recommendation; but, taking my valet with me, I knocked at the outer gate--and receivedimmediate admission within some ancient and low cloisters: of which thepavement consisted entirely of monumental slabs. The valet sought thelibrarian, to make known my wishes of examining the library; and I was leftalone to contemplate the novel and strange scene which presented itself onall sides. There were two quadrangles, each of sufficiently limiteddimensions. In the first, there were several young Monks playing atskittles in the centre of the lawn. Both the bowl and pins were ofunusually large dimensions, and the direction of the former was confinedwithin boards, fixed in the earth. These athletic young Benedictins (theymight be between twenty and thirty years of age) took little or no noticeof me; and while my eye was caught by a monumental tablet, which presentedprecisely the same coat-armour as the device used by Fust andSchoeffher, --and which belonged to a family that had been buried about twohundred and fifty years--the valet returned, and announced that thePrincipal of the College desired to see me immediately. 

I obeyed the summons in an instant, and followed Rohfritsch up stairs. There, on the first floor, a middle-aged monk received me, and accompaniedme to the chamber of the President. On rapping at the door with hisknuckles, a hollow but deep-toned voice commanded the visitor to enter. Iwas introduced with some little ceremony, but was compelled, mostreluctantly, to have recourse to Latin, in conversing with the Principal. He rose to receive me very graciously; and I think I never before witnesseda countenance which seemed to _tell_ of so much hard fagging andmeditation. He must have read every _Father_, in the _editio princeps_ ofhis works. His figure and physiognomical expression bespoke a rapidapproach to the grand climacteric of human life. The deeply-sunk, but largeand black, beaming eye--the wan and shrivelled cheek--the nose, somewhataquiline, with nostrils having all the severity of sculpture--sharp, thinlips--an indented chin--and a highly raised forehead, surmounted by alittle black silk cap--(which was taken off on the first salutation) all, added to the gloom of the place, and the novelty of the costume, impressedme in a manner not easily to be forgotten. My visit was very short, as Iwished it to be; and it was concluded with an assurance, on the part of thePrincipal, that the librarian would be at home on the following day, andready to attend me to the library:--but, added the Principal, on parting, "we have nothing worthy of the inspection of a traveller who has visitedthe libraries of Paris and Munich. At Mölk, you will see fine books, and afine apartment for their reception. "

For the sake of _keeping_, in the order of my narrative, I proceed to giveyou an account of the visit to the library, which took place on the morrow, immediately after breakfast. It had rained the whole of the precedingnight, and every hill and mountain about Salzburg was obscured by acontinuation of the rain on the following day. I began to think thepostilion spoke but too true, when he said "it always rains at Salzburg. "Yet the air was oppressive; and huge volumes of steam, as from a cauldron, rose up from the earth, and mingled with the descending rain. In fiveminutes, I was within the cloisters of the monastery, and recognised someof the _skittling_ young monks--whom I had seen the day before. One of themaddressed me very civilly, in the French language, and on telling him theobject of my visit, he said he would instantly conduct me to Mr. GAERTNER, the librarian. On reaching the landing place, I observed a longcorridore--where a somewhat venerable Benedictin was walking, apparently toand fro, with a bunch of keys in one hand, and a thick embossed-quartounder his other arm. The very sight of him reminded me of good _MichaelNeander_, the abbot of the monastery of St. Ildefonso--the friend ofBudæus[86]--of whom (as you may remember) there is a print in the _RerumGermanicarum Scriptores_, published in 1707, folio. 

"That, Sir, is the librarian:"--observed my guide: "he waits to receiveyou. " I walked quickly forward and made obeisance. Anon, one of the largerkeys in this said bunch was applied to a huge lock, and the folding andiron-cramped doors of the library were thrown open. I descended by a fewsteps into the ante-room, and from thence had a completely fore-shortenedview of the library. It is small, but well filled, and undoubtedly containssome ancient and curious volumes: but several _hiatuses_ gave indicationthat there had been a few transportations to Vienna or Munich. The smallgothic windows were open, and the rain now absolutely descended intorrents. Nevertheless, I went quickly and earnestly to work. A few slightladders were placed against the shelves, in several parts of the library, by means of which I left no division unexplored. The librarian, afterexchanging a few words very pleasantly, in the French language, left mealone, unreservedly to prosecute my researches. I endeavoured to benefitamply by this privilege; but do not know, when, in the course of three orfour hours, I have turned over the leaves of so many volumes ... Some ofwhich seemed to have been hardly opened since they were first depositedthere ... To such little purpose. 

However, he is a bad sportsman who does not hit _something_ in awell-stocked cover; and on the return of the librarian, he found me busilyengaged in laying aside certain volumes--with a written listannexed--"which might _possibly_, be disposed of ... For a valuableconsideration?" "Your proposal shall be attended to, but this cannot bedone immediately. You must leave the _consideration_ to the Principal andthe elder brethren of the monastery. " I was quite charmed by this response;gave my address, and taking a copy of the list, withdrew. I enclose you thelist or catalogue in question. [87] Certainly I augur well of the result:but no early _Virgil_, nor _Horace_, nor _Ovid_, nor _Lucretius_, nor evenan early _Greek Bible_ or _Testament_! What struck me, on the score ofrarity, as most deserving of being secured, were some little scarcegrammatical and philological pieces, by the French scholars of the earlypart of the sixteenth century; and some controversial tracts about Erasmus, Luther, and Eckius. 

So much for the monastic visit to St. Peter's at Salzburg; and yet you arenot to quit it, without learning from me that this town was once famous forother similar establishments[88]--which were said anciently to vie with thegreater part of those in Austria, for respectability of character, andamplitude of possessions. At present, things of this sort seem to behastening towards a close, and I doubt whether the present principal willhave half a dozen successors. It remains only to offer a brief sketch ofsome few other little matters which took place at Salzburg; and then towish you good bye--as our departure is fixed for this very afternoon. Weare to travel from hence through a country of mountains and lakes, to the_Monastery of Chremsminster_, in the route to Lintz--on the high road toVienna. I have obtained a letter to the Vice-President of _Mölk monastery_, from a gentleman here, who has a son under his care; so that, ere I reachthe capital of Austria, I shall have seen a pretty good sprinkling of_Benedictins_--as each of these monasteries is of the order of St. Benedict. 

The evening of the second day of our visit here, enabled me to ascertainsomething of the general character of the scenery contiguous to the town. This scenery is indeed grand and interesting. The summit of the lowest hillin the neighbourhood is said to be 4000 feet above the level of the sea. Iown I have strong doubts about this. It is with the heights of mountains, as with the numbers of books in a great library, --we are apt to over-rateeach. However, those mountains, which seem to be covered with perennialsnow, must be doubtless 8000 feet above the same level. [89] To obtain acomplete view of them, you must ascend some of the nether hills. This weintended to do--but the rain of yesterday has disappointed all our hopes. The river _Salz_ rolls rapidly along; being fed by mountain torrents. Thereare some pretty little villas in the neighbourhood, which are frequentlytenanted by the English; and one of them, recently inhabited by LordStanhope, (as the owner informed me, ) has a delightful view of the citadel, and the chain of snow-capt mountains to the left. The numerous rapidrivulets, flowing into the Salz, afford excellent trout-fishing; and Iunderstood that Sir Humphry Davy, either this summer, or the last, exercised his well-known skill in this diversion here. The hills aboundwith divers sorts of four-footed and winged game; and, in short, (providedI could be furnished with a key of free admission into the library of St. Peter's Monastery) I hardly know where I could pass the summer and autumnmonths more completely to my satisfaction than at SALZBURG. What might notthe pencils of Turner and Calcott here accomplish, during the mellow lightsand golden tints of autumn?

Of course, in a town so full of curiosities of every description, I am notable, during so short a stay in it, to transmit you any intelligence aboutthose sights which are vulgarly called the _Lions_. But I must not closethis rambling, desultory letter, without apprising you that I have walkedfrom one end of the _Mönschberg_ to the other. This is an excavationthrough a hard and high rocky hill, forming the new gate, or entrance intothe town. The success of this bold undertaking was as complete, as itsutility is generally acknowledged: nor shall it tarnish the lustre of the_mitre_ to say, that it was a BISHOP of Salzburg who conceived, andsuperintended the execution of, the plan. A very emphatic inscriptioneternises his memory: "TE SAXA LOQUUNTUR. " The view, from the further endof it, is considered to be one of the finest in Europe: but, when Iattempted to enjoy it, every feature of the landscape was obscured bydrizzling rain. "It always rains at Salzburg!"--said, as you may remember, the postilion from Lauffen. It may do so: but a gleam of _sunshine_ alwaysenlivens that moment, when I subscribe myself, as I do now, youraffectionate and faithful friend. 

[77] See vol. I. P. 199. 

[78] It is thus entitled: _Bibliothecæ Ingolstadiensis Incunabula Typographica_, 1787, 4to. : containing four parts. A carefully executed, and indispensably necessary, volume in every bibliographical collection. 

[79] [I rejoice to add, in this edition of my Tour, that the LOST SHEEP has been FOUND. It had not straggled from the fold when I was at Landshut; but had got _penned_ so snugly in some unfrequented corner, as not to be perceived. ]

[80] [A vision, however, which AGAIN haunts me!]

[81] This copy has since reached England, and has been arrayed in a goodly coat of blue morocco binding. Whether it remain in Cornhill at this precise moment, I cannot take upon me to state; but I can confidently state that there is _not a finer copy_ of the edition in question in his Britannic Majesty's united dominions. [This copy now--1829--ceases to exist... In Cornhill. ]

[82] On consulting the _Typog. Antiquities_, vol. Ii. P. 510, I found my conjectures confirmed. The reader will there see the full title of the work--beginning thus: "_Eruditissimi Viri Guilelmi Rossei opus elegans, doctum, festiuum, pium, quo pulcherrime retegit, ac refellit, insanas Lutheri calumnias, " &c. _ It is a volume of considerable rarity. 

[83] The charges were moderate. A bottle of the best red ordinary wine (usually--the best in every respect) was somewhere about 1s. 6d. Our lodgings, two good rooms, including the charge of three wax candles, were about four shillings per day. The bread was excellent, and the _cuisine_ far from despicable. 

[84] We learn from Pez (_Austriacar. Rer. _ vol. Ii. Col. 185, taken from the Chronicle of the famous _Admont Monastery_, ) that, in the year 1128, the cathedral and the whole city of Salzburg were destroyed by fire. So, that the antiquity of this, and of other relics, must not be pushed to too remote a period. 

[85] Before the reader commences the above account of a visit to this monastery, he may as well be informed that the SUBJOINED bird's-eye view of it, together with an abridged history (compiled from Trithemius, and previous chroniclers) appears in the _Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, published in 1619, folio. 

 [Illustration]

 The monastery is there described as--"et vetustate et dignitate nulli è Germaniæ monasteriis secundum. " Rudbertus is supposed to have been its founder:--"repertis edificiis basilicam in honore SANCTI PETRI construxit:" _Chronicon Norimberg. _ fol. Cliii. ; edit. 1493. But this took place towards the end of the sixth century. From Godfred's _Chronicon Gotvvicense_, 1732, folio, pt. I. Pp. 37, 39, 52--the library of this Monastery, there called "antiquissima, " seems to have had some very ancient and valuable MSS. In Stengelius's time, (1620) the monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing condition. 

[86] As it is just possible the reader may not have a very distinct recollection of this worthy old gentleman, and ambulatory abbot--it may be acceptable to him to know, that, in the _Thanatologia of Budæus_ (incorporated in the _Tres Selecti Scriptores Rerum Germanicarum_, 1707, folio, p. 27, &c. ) the said Neander is described as a native of Sorau, in Bohemia, and as dying in his 70th year, A. D. 1595, having been forty-five years Principal of the monastery of St. Ildefonso. A list of his works, and a laudatory Greek epigram, by Budæus, "UPON HIS EFFIGY, " follow. 

[87] For the sake of juxta-position I here lay before the reader a short history of the issue, or progress of the books in question to their present receptacle, in St. James's Place. A few days after reaching _Vienna_, I received the following "pithy and pleasant" epistle from the worthy librarian, "Mon très-revérend Pasteur. En esperant que vous êtes arrivé à Vienne, à bon port, j'ai l'honneur de declarer à vous, que le prix fixé des livres, que vous avez choisi, et dont la table est ajoutée, est 40 louis d'or, ou 440 florins. Agréez l'assurance, &c. "

 [Autographs]

 I wrote to my worthy friend Mr. Nockher at Munich to settle this subject immediately; who informed me, in reply, that the good monks would not part with a single volume till they had received "the money upon the nail, "--"l'argent comptant. " That dexterous negotiator quickly supplied them with the same; received the case of books; and sent them down the Rhine to Holland, from thence to England: where they arrived in safe and perfect condition. They are all described in the second volume of the _Ædes Athorpianæ_; together with a beautiful fac-simile of an illuminated head, or portrait, of _Gaietanus de Tienis_, who published a most elegantly printed work upon Aristotle's four books of Meteors, _printed by Maufer_, in 1476, folio; and of which the copy in the Salzburg library was adorned by the head (just mentioned) of the Editor. _Æd. Althorp. _ vol. Ii. P. 134. Among the books purchased, were two exquisite copies, filled with wood cuts, relating to the Æsopian Fables: a copy of one of which, entitled _Æsopus Moralisatus_, was, I think, sold at the sale of the Duke of Marlborough's books, in 1819, for somewhere about 13l. 

[88] In Hartmann Schedel's time, Salzburg--which was then considered as the CAPITAL OF BAVARIA--"was surrounded by great walls, and was adorned by many beautiful buildings of temples and monasteries. " A view of Salzburg, which was formerly called JUVAVIA, is subjoined in the _Nuremberg Chronicle_, fol. CLIII. _edit. _ 1493. Consult also the _Chronicon Gotvvicense_, 1732, folio, pt. Ii. P. 760--for some particulars respecting the town taking its name from the river _Juvavia_ or _Igonta_. Salzburg was an Archbishopric founded by Charlemagne: see the _Script. Rer. German. _ edited by _Nidanus et Struvius_, 1726 folio, vol. I. P. 525. 

[89] On the morning following my arrival at Salzburg, I purchased a card, and small chart of the adjacent country and mountains. Of the latter, the _Gross Klokner_, _Klein Klokner_, are each about 12000 feet above the level of the sea; The _Weisbachhorn_ is about 11000 feet of similar altitude; _Der Hohe Narr_ about the same height; and the _Hohe Warte_ about 10, 000; while the _Ankogl_ and _Herzog Ernst_, are 9000 each. The lowest is the _Gaisberg_ of 4000 feet; but there is a regular gradation in height, from the latter, to the Gross Klokner, including about 25 mountains. 

 [Illustration]

LETTER VIII. 

SALZBURG. TO CHREMSMINSTER. THE LAKE GMUNDEN. THE MONASTERY OFCHREMSMINSTER. LINTZ. 

_Lintz; on the road to Vienna, Aug. 26, 1818. _

In order that I may not be too much in arrear in my correspondence, Isnatch an hour or two at this place, to tell you what have been my sightsand occupations since I quitted the extraordinary spot whence I lastaddressed you. Learn therefore, at the outset, that I have been, ifpossible, more gratified than heretofore. I have shaped my course alongdevious roads, by the side of huge impending mountains; have skirted morethan one lake of wide extent and enchanting transparency; have navigatedthe celebrated _Lake of Gmunden_ from one end to the other--the greaterpart of which is surrounded by rocky yet fertilized mountains of aprodigious height;--have entered one of the noblest and richest monasteriesof Austria--and darted afterwards through a country, on every side pleasingby nature, and interesting from history. My only regret is, that all thishas been accomplished with too much precipitancy; and that I have beencompelled to make sketches in my mind, as it were, when the beauty of theobjects demanded a finished picture. 

I left Salzburg on the afternoon after writing my last epistle; and left itwith regret at not having been able to pay a visit to the salt mines of_Berchtesgaden_ and _Hallein_: but "non omnia possumus omnes. " The firststage, to _Koppf_, was absolutely up hill, the whole way, a short Germanleague and a half: probably about seven English miles. We were compelled toput a leader to our two horses, and even then we did little more thancreep. But the views of the country we had left behind us, as we continuedascending, were glorious in the extreme. Each snow-capt mountain appearedto rise in altitude--as we continued to mount. Our views however were meresnatches. The sun was about to set in a bed of rain. Large black cloudsarose; which, although they added to the grandeur of picturesquecomposition, prevented us from distinctly surveying the adjacent country. Masses of deep purple floated along the fir-clad hills: now partiallyillumined by the sun's expiring rays, and now left in deep shadow--to besucceeded by the darkness of night. 

The sun was quite set as we stopped to change horses at _Koppf_: and a sortof premature darkness came on:--which, however, was relieved for a shorttime by a sky of partial but unusual clearness of tint. The whole had astrange and magical effect. As the horses were being put to, I steppedacross the road to examine the interior of a small church--where Iobserved, in the side aisle, a group of figures of the size of life--which, at that sombre hour, had a very extraordinary effect. I approached nearer, and quickly perceived that this group was intended to represent the _Agonyin the Garden of Gethsemane_. Our Saviour, at a little distance, was uponhis knees, praying; and the piety of some _religieuse_ (as I afterwardslearnt) had caused a white handkerchief to be fixed between his hands. Thedisciples were represented asleep, upon the ground. On coming close to thefigures (which were raised upon a platform, of half the height of a man)and removing the moss upon which they were recumbent, I found that theywere mere _trunks_, without legs or feet: the moss having been artfullyplaced, so as to conceal these defects when the objects were seen at adistance. Of course it was impossible to refrain from a smile, onwitnessing such a sight. 

The horses were harnessed in ten minutes; and, having no longer anyoccasion for a leader, we pursued our route with the usual number of two. The evening was really enchanting; and upon the summit of one of theloftiest of the hills--which rose perpendicularly as a bare sharp piece ofrock--we discerned a pole, which we conjectured was fixed there for someparticular purpose. The postilion told us that it was the stem of thelargest fir-tree in the country, and that there were annual gamescelebrated around it--in the month of May, when its summit was crowned witha chaplet. Our route was now skirted on each side, alternately, by waterand by mountain. The _Mande See_, _Aber See_, and _Aller See_, (threebeautiful lakes) lay to the left; of which we caught, occasionally, fromseveral commanding heights, most magnificent views--as the last light ofday seemed to linger upon their surfaces. They are embosomed in scenery ofthe most beautiful description. When we reached _St. Gilgen_, or _Gilling_, we resolved upon passing the night there. 

It was quite dark, and rather late, when we entered this miserable village;but within half a league of it, we ran a very narrow chance of beingoverturned, and precipitated into a roaring, rapid stream, just below theroad--along the banks of which we had been sometime directing our course. Afir-pole lay across the road, which was undiscernible from the darkness ofthe night; and the carriage, receiving a violent concussion, and losing itsbalance for a moment--leaning over the river--it was doubtful what would bethe issue. Upon entering the archway of the inn, or rather publichouse--from the scarcity of candles, and the ignorance of rustic ostlers, the door of the carriage (it being accidentally open) was completelywrenched from the body. 

Never, since our night's lodging at _Saudrupt_, [90] had we taken up ourquarters at so miserable an auberge. The old woman, our landlady, seemedalmost to cast a suspicious eye upon us; but the valet in a moment disarmedher suspicions. It was raw, cold, and late; but the kitchen fire was yet infull force, and a few earthen-ware utensils seemed to contain something inthe shape of eatables. You should know, that the kitchen fire-places, inGermany, are singularly situated; at least all those at the public innswhere we have stopped. A platform, made of brick, of the height of aboutthree feet, is raised in the centre of the floor. The fire is in the centreof the platform. You look up, and see directly the open sky through thechimney, which is of a yawning breadth below, but which narrows graduallytowards the top. It was so cold, that I requested a chair to be placed uponthe platform, and I sat upon it--close to the kitchen fire--receiving veryessential benefit from the position. All the kitchen establishment wasquickly put in requisition: and, surrounded by cook and scullion--pots, pans, and culinary vessels of every description--I sat like a monarch uponhis throne: while Mr. Lewis was so amused at the novelty of the scene, thathe transferred it to his sketch-book. 

It was midnight when we attacked our _potage_--in the only visitor'sbed-room in the house. Two beds, close to each other, each on a slopingangle of nearly forty-five degrees, were to receive our wearied bodies. The_matériel_ of the beds was _straw_; but the sheets were white and wellaired, and edged (I think) with a narrow lace; while an eider downquilt--like a super-incumbent bed--was placed upon the first quilt. It wasscarcely day-light, when Mr. Lewis found himself upon the floor, awoke fromsleep, having gradually slid down. By five o'clock, the smith's hammer washeard at work below--upon the door of the dismembered carriage--and by thetime we had risen at eight o'clock, the valet reported to us that the jobwas just _then_ ... In the very state in which it was at its_commencement_! So much for the reputation of the company of white-smithsat _St. Gilgen_. We were glad to be off by times; but I must not quit thisobscure and humble residence without doing the landlady the justice to say, that her larder and kitchen enabled us to make a very hearty breakfast. This, for the benefit of future travellers--benighted like ourselves. 

The morning lowered, and some soft rain fell as we started: but, bydegrees, the clouds broke away, and we obtained a complete view of theenchanting country through which we passed--as we drove along by the banksof the _Aber_ lake, to _Ischel_. One tall, sharp, and spirally-terminatingrock, in particular, kept constantly in view before us, on the right; ofwhich the base and centre were wholly feathered with fir. It rose with anextraordinary degree of abruptness, and seemed to be twice as high as thespire of Strasbourg cathedral. To the left, ran sparkling rivulets, asbranches of the three lakes just mentioned. An endless variety ofpicturesque beauty--of trees, rocks, greenswards, wooded heights, andglen-like passes--canopied by a sky of the deepest and most brilliantblue--were the objects upon which we feasted till we reached _Ischel_:where we changed horses. Here we observed several boats, of a peculiarlylong and narrow form, laden with salt, making their way for the _Steyer_and _Ens_ rivers, and from thence to the Danube. To describe what we saw, all the way till we reached the _Traun See_, or the LAKE OF GMUNDEN, wouldbe only a repetition of the previous description. 

At _Inderlambach_, close to the lake in question, we stopped to dine. Thisis a considerable village, or even country town. On the heights arewell-trimmed gravel walks, from which you catch a commanding view of thehither end of the lake; and of which the sight cheered us amazingly. Welonged to be afloat. There is a great manufactory of salt carried on uponthese heights--at the foot of which was said to be the best inn in thetown. Thither we drove: and if high charges form the test of the excellenceof an inn, there is good reason to designate this, at _Inderlambach_, assuch. We snatched a hasty meal, (for which we had nearly fifteen florins topay) being anxious to get the carriage and luggage aboard one of the largerboats, used in transporting travellers, before the sun was getting toolow ... That we might see the wonders of the scenery of which we had heardso much. It was a bright, lovely afternoon; and about half-past six we wereall, with bag and baggage, on board. Six men, with oars resembling spadesin shape, were to row us; and a seventh took the helm. The water was assmooth as glass, and of a sea-green tint, which might have been occasionedby the reflection of the dark and lofty wood and mountainous scenery, bywhich the lake is surrounded. 

The rowers used their oars so gently, as hardly to make us sensible oftheir sounds. The boat glided softly along; and it was evident, from thevarying forms of the scenery, that we were making considerable way. We hada voyage of at least nine English miles to accomplish, ere we reached theopposite extremity--called _Gmunden_; and where we were told that the innwould afford us every accommodation which we might wish. On reaching thefirst winding or turning of the lake, to the left, a most magnificent andeven sublime object--like a mountain of rock--presented itself to theright. It rose perpendicularly--vast, craggy, and of a height, I shouldsuppose, little short of 2000 feet. Its gray and battered sides--nowlighted up by the varied tints of a setting sun--seemed to have beenploughed by many a rushing torrent, and covered by many a winter's snow. Meanwhile the lake was receiving, in the part nearest to us, a breadth ofdeep green shadow, as the sun became lower and lower. The last faint screamof the wild fowl gave indication that night was coming on; and the fewsmall fishermen's huts, with which the banks were slightly studded, beganto fade from the view. Yet the summit of the mountain of rock, which I havejust mentioned, was glowing with an almost golden hue. I cannot attempt amore minute description of this enchanting scene. 

One thing struck me very forcibly. This enormous rocky elevation seemed tobaffle all our attempts to _near_ it--and yet it appeared as if we werescarcely a quarter of a mile from it. This will give you some notion of itssize and height. At length, the scenery of the lake began to change--into amore quiet and sober character.... We had now passed the rocky mountain, and on looking upon its summit, we observed that the golden glow ofsunshine had subsided into a colour of pale pink, terminating in alternatetints of purple and slate. Almost the whole landscape had faded from theeye, when we reached the end of our voyage; having been more than two hoursupon the lake. On disembarking, we made directly for the inn--where wefound every thing even exceeding what we had been led to expect--andaffording a very striking and comfortable contrast to the quarters of thepreceding evening at St. Gilgen. Sofas, carpets, lustres, and two goodbed-rooms--a set of china which might have pleased a German baron--allglittered before our eyes, and shewed us that, if we were not wellsatisfied, the fault would be our own. The front windows of the hotelcommanded a direct and nearly uninterrupted length-view of the lake; and ifthe full moon had risen ... But one cannot have every thing one wants--evenat the hotel of Gmunden. 

We ordered a good fire, and wax candles to be lighted; a chafing dish, filled with live charcoal caused a little cloud of steam to be emitted froma copper kettle--of which the exterior might have been _cleaned_ ... Duringthe _last_ century. But we travelled with our own tea; and enjoyed asuccession of cups which seemed to make us "young and lusty as eagles:" andwhich verified all the pleasing things said in behalf of this philosophicalbeverage by the incomparable Cowper. Mr. Lewis spent two hours in _penningin_ his drawings; and I brushed up my journal---opened my map--andcatechised the landlord about the MONASTERY of CHREMSMINSTER, which it wasresolved to visit on the following (Sunday) morning. Excellent beds (not"sloping in an angle of 45 degrees"--) procured us a comfortable night'srest. In the morning, we surveyed the lake, the village, and its immediatevicinity. We inspected two churches, and saw a group of women devoutlyoccupied in prayer by the side of a large tombstone--in a cemetery at adistance from any church. The tombstones in Germany are whimsical enough. Some look like iron cross-bows, others like crosses; some nearly resemble agibbet; and others a star. They are usually very slender in theirstructure, and of a height scarcely exceeding four or five feet. 

By eleven in the morning, the postboy's bugle sounded for our departure. The carriage and horses were at the door: the postboy, arrayed in anentirely new scarlet jacket, with a black velvet collar edged with silverlace, the livery of Austria, was mounted upon a strong and lofty steed; andthe travellers being comfortably seated, the whip sounded, and off we went, up hill, at a good round cantering pace. A large congregation, which wasquitting a church in the vicinity of the inn, gazed at us, as we passed, with looks and gestures as if they had never seen two English travellersbefore. 

The stage from Gmunden to Chremsminster is very long and tedious; but by nomeans devoid of interest. We halted an hour to rest the horses, abouthalf-way on the route; which I should think was full eight English milesfrom the place of starting. On leaving Gmunden, and gaining the height ofthe neighbouring hills, we looked behind, or rather to the right, upon the_back_ part of that chain of hills and rocks which encircle the lake overwhich we had passed the preceding evening. The sky was charged with largeand heavy clouds; and a broad, deep, and as it were stormy, tint of darkpurple ... Mantled every mountain which we saw--with the exception of ourold gigantic friend, of which the summit was buried in the clouds. At agiven distance, you form a tolerably good notion of the altitude ofmountains; and from this latter view of those in question, I should thinkthat the highest may be about 3000 feet above the level of the lake. It wassomewhere upon two o'clock when we caught the first glimpse of the spireand lofty walls of the MONASTERY OF CHREMSMINSTER. This monastery is hid byhigh ground, --till you get within a mile of the town of _Chrems_; socalled, from a river, of the same name, which washes almost the walls ofthe monastery. 

I cannot dissemble the joy I felt on the first view of this striking andvenerable edifice. It is situated on a considerable eminence--and seems tobe built upon a foundation of rock. Its mosque-fashioned towers, the longrange of its windows, and height of its walls, cannot fail to arrest theattention very forcibly. Just on the spot where we caught the first view ofit, the road was not only very precipitous, but was under repair; whichmade it absolutely perilous. The skill of our postilion, however extricatedus from all danger; and on making the descent, I opened my portmanteau infront of me--which was strapped to the back-seat of the carriage--pulledout the green silk purse which I had purchased at Dieppe, within a fewhours of my landing in France--and introducing my hand into it, took fromthence some dozen or twenty napoleons--observing at the same time, to Mr. Lewis, and pointing to the monastery--that "these pieces would probably bedevoted to the purchasing of a few book-treasures from the library of theedifice in view. " In five minutes we drove up to the principal, or ratheronly inn, which the town seemed to afford. The first thing I did, was, tobespeak an immediate dinner, and to send a messenger, with a note (writtenin Latin) to the Vice Principal or Librarian of the monastery--"requestingpermission to inspect the library, being English travellers bound forVienna. " No answer was returned ... Even on the conclusion of our dinner;when, --on calling a council, it was resolved that we should take the valetand a guide with us, and immediately assail the gates of the Monastery. 

I marched up the steep path which leads to these gates, with the mostperfect confidence in the success of my visit. Vespers were just concluded;and three or four hundred at least of the population of Chrems were pouringforth from the church doors, down the path towards the town. On enteringthe quadrangle in which the church is situated, we were surprised at itsextent, and the respectability of its architecture. We then made for thechurch--along the cloisters--and found it nearly deserted. A few stragglingsupplicants were however left behind--ardent in prayer, upon their knees:but the florid style of the architecture of the interior of this churchimmediately caught my attention and admiration. The sides are covered withlarge oil paintings, which look like copies of better performances; while, at each lower corner of these pictures, stands a large figure of a saint, boldly sculptured, as if to support the painting. Throwing your eye alongthis series of paintings and sculpture, on each side of the church, thewhole has a grand and imposing effect--while the _subjects_ of some of thepaintings, describing the tortures of the damned, or the occupations of thegood, cannot fail, in the mind of an enthusiastic devotee, to produce avery powerful sensation. The altars here, as usual in Germany, and even atLauffen and Koppf--are profusely ornamented. 

We had hardly retreated from the church--lost in the variety of reflectionsexcited by the novelty of every surrounding object--when I perceived aBenedictin, with his black cap upon his head, walking with a hurried steptowards us ... Along the cloisters. As he approached, he pulled off hiscap, and saluted us very graciously: pouring forth a number of sentences, in the Latin language, (for he could not speak a word of French) with afluency and rapidity of utterance, of which, I could have no conception;and of which, necessarily, I could not comprehend one half. Assuming a moreleisurely method of address, he asked me, what kind of books I was moreparticularly anxious to see: and on replying "those more especially whichwere printed in the fifteenth century--the "_Incunabula_"--he answered, "come with me; and, although the librarian be absent, I will do my utmostto assist you. " So saying, we followed him into his cell, a mere cabin of aroom: where I observed some respectably-looking vellum-clad folios, andwhere his bed occupied the farther part. He then retired for the key:returned in five seconds, and requested that we would follow him up stairs. We mounted two flights of a noble staircase; the landing-place of the_first_ of which communicated with a lofty and magnificent, archedcorridor:--running along the whole side of the quadrangle. The library issituated at the very top of the building, and occupies (as I shouldapprehend) one half of the side of the quadrangle. It is a remarkablyhandsome and cheerful room, divided into three slightly indicatedcompartments; and the colour, both of the wainscot and of the backs of thebooks, is chiefly white. 

The first thing that struck me was, the almost unbounded and diversifiedview from thence. I ran to the windows--but the afternoon had become blackand dismal, and the rain was descending fast on all sides; yet, in the hazeof distance, I thought I could discern the chain of huge mountains near thelake of Gmunden. Their purple sides and craggy summits yet seemed to riseabove the clouds, which were resting upon the intermediate country, anddeluging it with rain. The Benedictin confirmed my suspicions as to theidentity of the country before us, and then bade me follow, him quickly. Ifollowed M. HARTENSCHNEIDER (for so the worthy Benedictin wrote his name)to the further division, or compartment of the library; and turning to theleft, began an attack upon the _Fifteeners_--which were placed there, onthe two lowest shelves. My guide would not allow of my taking down thebooks ... From sheer politeness. "They might prove burdensome"--as if _anything_, in the shape of a book, could be considered a BURDEN!

The first volume I opened, was one of the most beautiful copiesimaginable--utterly beyond all competition, for purity and primitiveness ofcondition--of Schoiffher's edition of _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, withthe Commentary of Trivetus, of the date of 1473. That work iseverywhere--in all forms, types, and conditions--upon the continent. Theworthy M. Hartenschneider seemed to be marvellously pleased with thedelight I expressed on the view of this magnificent volume. He then placedbefore me the _Catholicon_ of 1469, by G. Zainer: a cropt, but clean anddesirable copy. Upon my telling him that I had not long ago seen a copy ofit UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich, he seemed to be mute andpensive... And to sigh somewhat inwardly. Pausing awhile, he resumed, bytelling me that the ONLY treasure they had possessed, in the shape of aVELLUM BOOK, was a copy of the same work of St. Austin, printed chiefly by_John de Spira_ (but finished by his brother _Vindelin_) of the date of1470; but with which, and many other book-curiosities, the French general_Lecourbe_ chose to march away; in the year 1800. That cruel act ofspoliation was commemorated, or revenged, by an angry Latin distich. 

I was also much gratified by a beautifully clean copy of the _DurandiRationale_ by I. Zeiner, of the date of 1474: as well as with the sameprinter's _Aurea Biblia_, of the same date, which is indeed almost everywhere upon the Continent. But nothing came perfectly up to the copy ofSchoiffher's edition of the _De Civ. Dei. _ M. Hartenschneider added, thatthe Imperial Library at Vienna had possessed itself of their chief raritiesin early typography: but he seemed to exult exceedingly on mentioning thebeautiful and perfect state of their DELPHIN CLASSICS. 

"Do you by chance possess the _Statius_?--" observed I. "Come and see--"replied my guide: and forthwith he took me into a recess, or closet, wheremy eye was greeted with one of the most goodly book-sights imaginable. There they all stood--those Delphin Classics--in fair array and comeliestcondition. I took down the Statius, and on returning it, exclaimed"Exemplar pulcherrimum et optime conservatum. " "Pretiosissimumque, "rejoined my cicerone. "And the _Prudentius_--good M. Hartenschneider--doyou possess it?" "Etiam"--replied he. "And the _Catullus_, _Tibullus_, and_Propertius_?" They were there also: but one of the volumes, containing theTibullus, was with a brother monk. That monk (thought I to myself) musthave something of a tender heart. "But tell me, worthy and learned Sir, (continued I) why so particular about the _Statius_? Here are twenty goldenpieces:" (they were the napoleons, taken from the forementioned silkenpurse[91])--"will these procure the copy in question?" "It is in vain youoffer any thing: (replied M. Hartenschneider) we have refused this verycopy even to Princes and Dukes. " "Listen then to me:" resumed I: "It seemsyou want that great work, such an ornament to our own country, and souseful to every other--the _Monasticon Anglicanum of Sir William Dugdale_. Will you allow me to propose a fair good copy of that admirableperformance, in exchange for your Statius?" "I can promise nothing--repliedM. Hartenschneider--as that matter rests entirely with the superiors of themonastery; but what you say appears to be very reasonable; and, for myself, I should not hesitate one moment, in agreeing to the proposed exchange. " Myguide then gave me to understand that he was _Professor of History_; andthat there were not fewer than one hundred monks upon the establishment. 

I was next intreated, together with my travelling friend and our valet, tostop and pass the night there. We were told that it was getting late anddark; and that there was only a cross road between Chrems and _Ens_, in theroute to _Lintz_--to which latter place we were going. "You cannot reachLintz (said our hospitable attendant) before midnight; but rain anddarkness are not for men with nice sensibilities to encounter. You and yourfriend, and eke your servant, shall not lack a hospitable entertainment. Command therefore your travelling equipage to be brought hither. You see(added he smiling) we have room enough for all your train. I beseech you totarry with us. " This is almost a literal version of what M. Hartenschneidersaid--and he said it fluently, and even in an impassioned manner. I thankedhim again and again; but declared it to be impossible to comply with hiskind wishes. "The hospitality of your order (observed I to the Professor)is equal to its learning. " M. Hartenschneider bowed: and then taking me bythe arm, exclaimed, "well, since you cannot be prevailed upon to stay, youmust make the most of your time. Come and see one or two of our moreancient MSS. "

He then placed before me an _Evangelistarium_ of the eighth century, whichhe said had belonged to Charlemagne, the founder of the monastery. [92] Itwas one of the most perfect pieces of calligraphy which I had ever seen;perhaps superior to that in the Public Library at Landshut. But this MS. Isyet more precious, as containing, what is considered to be, a compactbetween Charlemagne and the first Abbot of the Monastery, executed by bothparties. I looked at it with a curious and sceptical eye, and had scarcelythe courage to _doubt_ its authenticity. The art which it exhibits, in theilluminations of the figures of the Evangelists, is sufficientlywretched--compared with the specimens of the same period in the celebratedMS. (also once belonging to Charlemagne) in the private library of the Kingat Paris. [93] I next saw a MS. Of the _Sonnets of Petrarch_, in a smallfolio, or super royal octavo size, supposed to have been executed in thefifteenth century, about seventy years after the death of the poet. It isbeautifully written in a neat roman letter, and evidently the performanceof an Italian scribe; but it may as likely be a copy, made in the earlypart of the fifteenth century, of a MS. Of the previous century. However, it is doubtless a precious MS. The ornaments are sparingly introduced, andfeebly executed. 

On quitting these highly interesting treasures, M. H. And myself walked upand down the library for a few minutes, (the rain descending in torrentsthe whole time) and discoursed upon the great men of my own country. Hementioned his acquaintance with the works of Bacon, Locke, Swift, andNewton--and pronounced the name of the last ... With an effervescence offeeling and solemnity of utterance amounting to a sort of adoration. "Nextto Newton, " said he, "is your Bacon: nor is the interval between them_very_ great: but, in my estimation, Newton is more an angel than a mortal. He seemed to have been always communing with the Deity. " "All this isexcellent, Sir, --replied I: but you say not one word about our divine_Shakspeare_. " "Follow me--rejoined he--and you shall see that I am notignorant of that wonderful genius--and that I do not talk without book. "Whereupon M. H. Walked, or rather ran, rapidly to the other end of thelibrary, and put into my hands _Baskerville's Edition_ of that poet, [94] ofthe date of 1768--which I frankly told him I had never before seen. Thisamused him a good deal; but he added, that the greater part of Shakspearewas incomprehensible to him, although he thoroughly understood _Swift_, andread him frequently. 

It was now high time to break off the conversation, interesting as it mightbe, and to think of our departure: for the afternoon was fast wearing away, and a starless, if not a tempestuous, night threatened to succeed. CharlesRohfritsch was despatched to the inn below--to order the horses, settle thereckoning, and to bring the carriage as near to the monastery as possible. Meanwhile Mr. L. And myself descended with M. Hartenschneider to his ownroom--where I saw, for the first time, the long-sought after work of the_Annales Hirsaugienses_ of _Trithemius_, _printed in the Monastery of St. Gall_ in 1690, 2 vols. , folio, lying upon the Professor's table. M. H. Toldme that the copy belonged to the library we had just quitted. I had indeedwritten to Kransfelder, a bookseller at Augsbourg, just before leavingMunich, for _two_ copies of that rare and estimable work--which wereinserted in his sale catalogue; and I hope to be lucky enough to secureboth--for scarcely ten shillings of our money. [95] It now only remained tobid farewell to the most kind, active, and well-informed M. Hartenschneider--and to quit (probably for ever) the MONASTERY OFCHREMSMINSTER. Like the worthy Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm, he "committedme to God's especial good providence--" and insisted upon accompanying me, uncovered, to the very outer gates of the monastery: promising, all theway, that, on receiving my proposals in writing, respecting the Statius, hewould promote that object with all the influence he might possess. [96] Justas he had reached the further limits of the quadrangle, he met thelibrarian himself--and introduced me to him: but there was now only time tosay "Vale!" We shook hands--for the first ... And in all probability ... The last time. 

Every thing was in readiness--on reaching the bottom of the hill. A pair ofsmall, and apparently young and mettlesome horses, were put to thecarriage: the postilion was mounted; and nothing remained but to take ourseats, and bid adieu to _Chrems_ and its Monastery. The horses evinced thefleetness of rein deer at starting; and on enquiring about their age andhabits, I learnt that they were scarcely _three_ years old--had been justtaken from the field--and had been but _once_ before in harness. Thisintelligence rather alarmed us. However, we continued to push vigorouslyforward, along a very hilly road, in which no difference whatever was madebetween ascents and descents. It was a good long sixteen mile stage; anddarkness and a drizzling rain overtook us ere we had got over half of it. There were no lights to the carriage, and the road was the most devious Ihad ever travelled. The horses continued to fly like the wind, and thecharioteer began to express his fatigue in holding them in. At length wesaw the light of _Ens_, to the right--the first post town on the high roadfrom Lintz to Vienna. This led us to expect to reach the main road quickly. We passed over a long wooden bridge--under which the river Ens, here broadand rapid, runs to empty itself into the Danube: and... Nearer the hour ofeleven than ten, we drove to the principal inn in the Place. 

It was fair time: and the town of LINTZ was glittering with lights, andanimated by an unusual stir of population. The centre of the _Place_ orSquare, where the inn is situated, was entirely filled by booths; and itwas with difficulty we could gain admission within the inn, or secure roomswhen admitted. However, we had no reason to complain, for the chambermaid(an exceedingly mirthful and active old woman) assured us that Lord andLady Castlereagh on their route to Vienna in 1815, had occupied the verybeds which she had destined for us. These beds were upon the second floor, in a good large room, warmed by a central stove of earthenware tiles--theusual fireplace in Germany. The first floor of the inn was wholly occupiedby travellers, merchants, dealers, and adventurers of everydescription--the noise of whose vociferations, and the tramp of whosemovements, were audible even till long after midnight. 

I am tarrying in a very large, very populous, and excellently well builttown. LINTZ, or LINZ, has a population of at least 20, 000 souls: andboasts, with justice, not only of its beautiful public buildings, but ofits manufactories of stuffs, silks, and printed calicoes. The _Place_, before this inn, affords evidence of the splendour of these wares; and theinteriors of several booths are in a perfect blaze--from the highlyornamented gold gauze caps worn by the upper classes of the middlingpeople, even more brilliant than what was observed at Augsbourg. I wasasked equal to four guineas of our money for one of these caps, in myreconnoissance before breakfast this morning--nor, as I afterwards learnt, was the demand exorbitant. 

I must bid you farewell in haste. I start for Vienna within twenty minutesfrom this time, and it is now nearly-mid-day. But ere I reach the capitalof Austria, I hope to pay a string of MONASTIC VISITS:--beginning with thatof _St. Florian_, about a dozen miles from this place, just before youreach Ens, the next post town; so that, ere I again address you (whichcannot be until I reach Vienna, ) I shall have made rather a rambling andromantic tour. "Omne ignotum pro magnifico"--yet, if I mistake not; (fromall that I can collect here) _experience_ will confirm what hope andignorance suggest. 

[90] Vol. Ii. P. 352-3. 

[91] See p. 217 ante. 

[92] It should seem, from the pages of PEZ and NIDANUS, that Charlemagne was either the founder, or the patron, or endower, of almost every monastery in Germany. Stengelius, however, gives a a very romantic origin to the foundation of Chremsminster. "The eldest son of Tassilo, a Duke or Elector of Bavaria, went out a hunting in the winter; when, having been separated from his companions, in a large wood, he met a wild boar of an enormous size, near a fountain and pool of water. Notwithstanding the fearful odds between them, Tassilo gallantly received the animal upon the point of his hunting spear, and dispatched him with a tremendous wound: not however without a fatal result to himself. Rage, agony, and over exertion... Proved fatal to the conqueror: and when, excited by the barking of the dogs, his father and the troop of huntsmen came up to see what it might be, they witnessed the spectacle of the boar and the young Tassilo lying DEAD by the side of each other. The father built the MONASTERY of CHREMSMINSTER upon the fatal spot--to the memory of his beloved but unfortunate son. He endowed it with large possessions, and his endowments were confirmed by Pope Adrian and the Emperor Charlemagne--in the year 777. The history of the monastery is lost in darkness, till the year 1046, when Engelbert, Bishop of Passau, consecrated it anew; and in 1165, Diepold, another Bishop of Passau, added greatly to its possessions; but he was, in other respects, as well as Manegold in 1206, a very violent and mischievous character. Bishop Ulric, in 1216, was a great benefactor to it; but I do not perceive when the present building was erected: although it is possible there may be portions of it as old as the thirteenth century. See _Pez: Script. Rer. Austriac. _, vol. I. Col. 1305, &c. : _vol. Ii. _ col. 67, &c. At the time of publishing the _Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, 1638, (where there is a bird's-eye view of the monastery, as it now generally appears) Wolffradt (or Wolfardt) was the Abbot--who, in the author's opinion, "had no superior among his predecessors. " I go a great way in thinking with Stengelius; for this worthy Abbot built the Monks a "good supper-room, two dormitories, a sort of hospital for the sick, and a LIBRARY, with an abundant stock of new books. Also a sacristy, furnished with most costly robes, &c. _Monasteriologia_; sign. A. It was doubtless the BIBLIOTHECA WOLFRADTIANA in which I tarried--as above described--with equal pleasure and profit. 

[93] See vol. Ii. P. 199. 

[94] This I presume to be the "spurious" Birmingham edition, which is noticed by Steevens in the _Edit. Shakspeare_, 1813. 8vo. Vol. Ii. P. 151. 

[95] They were both secured. One copy is now in the ALTHORP LIBRARY, and the other in that of Mr. Heber. 

[96] On the very night of my arrival at Lintz, late as it was, I wrote a letter to the Abbot, or head of the monastery, addressed thus--as the Professor had written it down: "_Ad Reverendissimum Dominum Anselmum Mayerhoffer inclyti Monasterii Cremifanensis Abbatem vigilantissimum Cremifanum_. " This was enclosed in a letter to the Professor himself with the following direction: "_Ad Rev. Dm. Udalricum Hartenschneider Professum Monasterij Cremifanensis et Historiæ ibidem Professorem publicum. Cremifanum_:" the Professor having put into my hands the following written memorandum: "Pro commutandis--quos designasti in Bibliotheca nostra, libris--primo Abbatem adire, aut litteris saltem interrogare necesse est: quas, si tibi placuerit, ad me dirigere poteris. "

 [Autograph]

 This he wrote with extreme rapidity. In my letter, I repeated the offer about the Monasticon; with the addition of about a dozen napoleons for the early printed books above mentioned; requesting to have an answer, poste restante, at Vienna. No answer has since reached me. The Abbot should seem to have preferred Statius to Dugdale. [But his Statius NOW has declined wofully in pecuniary worth: while the Dugdale, in its newly edited form, has risen threefold. ]

LETTER IX. 

THE MONASTERIES OF ST. FLORIAN, MÖLK, AND GÖTTWIC. 

_Vienna; Hotel of the Emperor ofHungary, Aug. 31, 1818. _

MY DEAR FRIEND;

Give me your heartiest congratulations; for I have reached, and am welllodged at, the extreme limit of my "BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, ANTIQUARIAN, ANDPICTURESQUE TOUR. " Behold me, therefore, at VIENNA, the capital of Austria:once the abode of mighty monarchs and renowned chieftains: and the sceneprobably of more political vicissitudes than any other capital in Europe. The ferocious Turk, the subtle Italian, and the impetuous Frenchman, haveeach claimed Vienna as their place of residence by right of conquest; andits ramparts have been probably battered by more bullets and balls thanwere ever discharged at any other fortified metropolis. 

At present, however, my theme must be entirely monastic. Prepare, therefore, to receive an account of some MONASTIC VISITS, which haveperfectly won my heart over to the Institutions of ST. BENEDICT and ST. AUGUSTIN. Indeed I seem to have been mingling with a new set of humanbeings, and a new order of things; though there was much that put me inmind of the general character of my ever-cherished University of Oxford. Not that there is _any one_ college, whether at Oxford or at Cambridge, which in point of architectural magnificence, can vie with some of thosewhich I am about to describe. My last letter, as you may remember, left usupon the point of starting from Lintz, for the monastery of ST. FLORIAN. That monastery is situated within about three miles of _Ens_, the next posttown from Lintz. The road thither was lined, on each side, with the plumand the pear tree--in their alternate tints of saffron and purple--but farfrom being ripe. The sight, altogether, was as pleasing as it was novel:and especially were my spirits gladdened, on thinking of the fortunateescape from the perils that had seemed to have awaited us in our route fromChremsminster the preceding evening. 

On turning out of the main road, about a dozen miles from Lintz, we beganto be sensible of a gentle ascent, --along a pleasant, undulating road, skirted by meadows, copses, and corn-fields. In ten minutes, the valetshouted out--"_Voilà le Monastère de St. Florian!_" It was situated upon aneminence, of scarcely half the height of Chremsminster; but, from theabruptness of the ascent, as you enter the village, and make towards themonastery, it appears, on an immediate approach, to be of a veryconsiderable elevation. It looked nobly, as we neared it. The walls weremassive, and seemed to be embedded in a foundation of granite. Somepleasing little cultivated spots, like private gardens, were between theouter walls and the main body of the building. It rained heavily as werolled under the archway; when an old man and an old woman demanded, ratherwith astonishment than severity, what was the object of our visit? Havingreceived a satisfactory answer, the gates were opened, and we stoppedbetween two magnificent flights of steps, leading on each side to thecloisters. Several young monks, excited by the noise of the carriage, cametrooping towards the top of the stairs, looking down upon us, andretreating, with the nimbleness and apparent timidity of deer. Their whitestreamers, or long lappets, suspended from the back of the black gown, (thedesignation of the _Augustine_ order) had a very singular appearance. 

Having received a letter of recommendation to the librarian, M. KLEIN, Idelivered it to the porter--and in a few seconds observed two short monksuncovered, advancing towards me. M. Klein spoke French--after a certainfashion--which however made us understand one another well enough; and onwalking along the cloisters, he took me by the arm to conduct me to theAbbot. "But you have doubtless _dined_?" observed he, --turning sharply uponme. It was only between one and two o'clock; and therefore I thought Imight be pardoned, even by the severest of their own order, for answeringin the _negative_. My guide then whispered to his attendant (who quicklydisappeared) and carried me directly to the Abbot. Such a visit was worthpaying. I entered with great solemnity; squeezing my travelling cap into avariety of forms, as I made obeisance, --on observing a venerable man, nearer fourscore than seventy, sitting, with a black cap quite at the backpart of his head, and surrounded by half a dozen young monks, who werestanding and waiting upon him with coffee (after dinner) which was placedupon the table before him. He was the Principal. The old gentleman'scountenance was wan, and rather severely indented, but lighted up by a darkand intelligent pair of eyes. His shoulders were shrouded in a large grayfur tippet; and, on receiving me, he demonstrated every mark ofattention--by giving his unfinished cup of coffee to one of his attendants, and, pulling off his cap, endeavouring to rise. I advanced and begged theremight be no further movement. As he spoke French, we quickly understoodeach other. He bade me see every thing that was worth seeing; and, on hisrenewing the _dinner_ question, and receiving an answer in the negative, hecommanded that a meal of some sort should be forthwith got ready. In this, however, he had been anticipated by the librarian. 

I made my retreating bow, and followed my guide who, by this time, hadassumed quite a pleasant air of familiarity with me. I accompanied him tothe Library. It is divided into three rooms; of which the largest, at thefurther end, is the most characteristic. The central room is small, anddevoted to MSS. None as I learnt, either very old, very curious, or veryvaluable. The view from this suite of apartments must, on a fine day, belovely. Bad as was the weather, when I looked from the windows, I observed, to the left, some gently sloping and sweetly wooded pleasure grounds, withthe town of _Ens_, in the centre, at the distance of about three miles. Tothe right, were more undulating hills, with rich meadows in the foreground;while, immediately below, was the ornamented garden of the monastery. 

The prospect _within_ doors was not quite of so gratifying a description. It seemed to be the mere shadow of a library. Of old books, indeed, I sawnothing worth noticing--except a white and crackling, but cropt, copy of_Ratdolt's Appian_ of 1478, (always a beautiful book) and a _Latin Versionof Josephus_, printed at Venice in 1480 by _Maufer_, a citizen of Rouen. This latter was really a very fine book. There was also _Ratdolt's Euclid_of 1485--which indeed is every where abroad--but which generally hasvariations in the marginal diagrams. Of _Bibles_, either Latin or German, Isaw nothing more ancient than the edition by Sorg, in the _German_ languageof the date of 1477. I paused an instant over the _Tyturell_ of 1477, (theonly really scarce book in the collection) and threw a gilded bait beforethe librarian, respecting the acquisition of it;--but M. Klein quite_screamed_ aloud at the proposition--protesting that "not a single leaffrom a single book should be parted with!" "You are quite right, " added I. "My guide eyed me as if he could have said, "How much at variance are yourthoughts and words!" And yet I spake very sincerely. Mr. Klein then placeda clean, but cropt, copy of the _first Aldine Pindar_ before me; adding, that he understood it to be rare. "It is most rare, " rejoined I:--but it isyet "rarer than most rare" when found UPON VELLUM!--as it is to be seen inLord Spencer's library. " He seemed absolutely astonished at this piece ofintelligence--and talked about its pecuniary value. "No money can purchaseit. It is beyond all price"--rejoined I. Whereupon my guide was struck withstill deeper astonishment. 

There were all the _Polyglott Bibles_, with the exception of the_Complutensian_; which appears to be uncommon in the principal librariesupon the continent. _Walton's Polyglott_ was the Royal copy; which led to aslight discussion respecting the Royal and Republican copies. M. Kleinreceived most implicitly all my bibliographical doctrine upon the subject, and expressed a great desire to read Dr. Adam Clarke's Essay upon the same. When I spoke of the small number of copies upon LARGE PAPER, he appeared tomarvel more than ever--and declared "how happy the sight of such a copywould make him, from his great respect for the Editor!" There was a poorsprinkle of _English books_; among which however, I noticed Shakspeare, Milton, Swift, and Thomson; I had declared myself sufficiently satisfiedwith the inspection of the library, when dinner was announced; but couldnot reconcile it to myself to depart, without asking "whether they had the_Tewrdanckh_?" "Yes, and UPON VELLUM, too!" was the Librarian's reply. Itwas a good sound copy. 

The dinner was simple and nourishing. The wine was what they call the whitewine of Austria: rather thin and acid. It still continued to rain. Ourfriends told us that, from the windows of the room in which we were eating, they could, in fair weather; discern the snow-capt mountains of theTyrol:--that, from one side of their monastery they could look upon greenfields, pleasure gardens, and hanging woods, and from the other, uponmagnificent ranges of hills terminated by mountains covered with snow. Theyseemed to be proud of their situation, as they had good reason to be. Ifound them exceedingly chatty, pleasant, and even facetious. I broached thesubject of politics--but in a very guarded and general manner. The livelyLibrarian, however, thought proper to observe--"that the English were doingin _India_ what Bonaparte had been doing in _Europe_. " I told him that sucha doctrine was a more frightful heresy than any which had ever crept intohis own church: at which he laughed heartily, and begged we would not spareeither the _bouillé_ or the wine. 

We were scarcely twenty minutes at our meal, being desirous of seeing theCHURCH, the PICTURE GALLERY, and the SALOON--belonging to the monastery. Itwas not much after three o'clock, and yet it was unusually dark for thehour of the day. However, we followed our guides along a magnificentcorridor--desirous of seeing the pictures first. If the number ofpaintings, and of apartments alone, constitute a good collection ofpictures, this of Saint Florian is doubtless a very fair specimen of apicture gallery. There are three rooms and a corridor (or entrance passage)filled with paintings, of which three fourths at least are palpable copies. The _subjects_ of some of the paintings were not exactly accordant withmonastic gravity; among these I regret that I am compelled to include acopy of a Magdalen from Rubens--and a Satyr and Sleeping Nymph, apparentlyby Lucas Giordano. Nevertheless the collection is worth a second and athird examination; which, if time and circumstances had allowed, we shouldin all probability have given it. A series of subjects, fifteen in number, illustrative of the LIFE OF ST. FLORIAN, [97] (the great fire-extinguishingSaint, --to whom the Monastery is dedicated, and who was born at _Ens_, inthe neighbourhood) cuts a most distinguished figure in this collection. There is a good, and I think genuine, head of an old woman by Rubens, whichI seemed to stumble upon as if by accident, and which was viewed by myguides with a sort of apathy. Mr. Lewis was half lost in extacies before apretty little sketch by Paolo Veronese; when, on my observing to him thatthe time was running away fast, M. Klein spoke aloud in the Englishlanguage--"_Mister Louise_, (repeating my words) _teime fleis_. " He laughedheartily upon uttering it, and seemed to enjoy the joke full as much as mycompanion, to whom the words were addressed. There were several specimensof the old German masters, but I suspect most of them were copies. 

The day seemed to be growing darker and darker, although it was onlysomewhere between three and four o'clock. We descended quickly to see thechurch, where I found Charles (the valet) and several other spectators. Wepassed through a small sacristy or vestry, in the way to it. This room wasfitted up with several small confessionals, of the prettiest forms andworkmanship imaginable: having, in front, two twisted and slender columns, of an ebony tint: the whole--exceedingly inviting to confession. Here theDean met us; a grave, sober, sensible man, with whom I conversed in Latin. We entered the church, on the tip-toe of expectation: nor were wedisappointed. It is at once spacious and magnificent; but a little tooprofuse in architectural ornament. It consists of a nave and transepts, surmounted by a dome, with a choir of very limited dimensions. The choir isadorned, on each side, just above the several stalls, by an exceedinglyrich architrave, running the whole length, in a mixed roman and gothicstyle. The altar, as usual, is a falling off. The transepts are too short, and the dome is too small. The nave is a sort of elongated parallelogram. It is adorned on each side by pillars of the Corinthian order, andterminated by an _Organ_ ... Of the most gorgeous and imposing appearance. The pipes have completely the appearance of polished silver, and the woodwork is painted white, richly relieved by gold. For size and splendorunited, I had never seen any thing like it. The whole was perfectlymagical. 

On entering, the Dean, M. Klein, and three or four more Benedictins, madeslight prostrations on one knee, before the altar; and, just as they rose, to our astonishment and admiration, the organ burst forth with a power ofintonation (every stop being opened) such as I had never heard exceeded. Asthere were only a few present, the sounds were necessarily increased, bybeing reverberated from every part of the building: and for a moment itseemed as if the very dome would have been unroofed, and the sides burstasunder. We looked up; then at each other: lost in surprise, delight, andadmiration. We could not hear a word that was spoken; when, in some fewsucceeding seconds, the diapason stop only was opened ... And how sweet andtouching was the melody which it imparted! "Oh Dieu! (exclaimed our valet)que cela est ravissant, et même pénétrant. " This was true enough. A solemnstave or two of a hymn (during which a few other pipes were opened) wasthen performed by the organist ... And the effect was, as if these noteshad been chanted by an invisible choir of angels. The darkness of theheavens added much to the solemnity of the whole. Silence ensuing, we wereasked how we liked the church, the organ, and the organist? Of coursethere could be but one answer to make. The pulpit--situated at an anglewhere the choir and transept meet, and opposite to the place where weentered--was constructed of the black marble of Austria, ornamented withgold: the whole in sober good taste, and admirably appropriate. 

We left this beautiful interior, to snatch a hasty view of the dormitoriesand saloon, and to pay our farewell respects to the Principal. Thearchitect of this church was a Florentine, and it was built something morethan a century ago. It is doubtless in too florid a style. 

Instead of calling the bed-chambers by the homely name of "dormitories, "they should be designated (some at least), as state bed rooms. At eachcorner of several of the beds was a carved figure, in gilt--serving as aleg. The beds are generally capacious, without canopies; but theircovertures--in crimson, blue, or yellow silk--interspersed with spots ofgold or silver--gave indication, in their faded state, of their originalcostliness and splendor. The rooms are generally large: but I hurriedthrough them, as every thing--from the gloomy state of the afternoon, andmore especially from the absence of almost every piece of furniture--had asombre and melancholy air. Nothing is more impressive than the traces ofdeparted grandeur. They had once (as I learnt) carousals and rejoicings inthis monastery;--and the banquet below made sweet and sound the slumbersabove. But matters have recently taken a different and less auspiciousturn. The building stands, and will long stand--unless assailed by themusquet and cannon--a proud monument of wealth and of art: while therevenues for its support ... Are wasting every year! But I hope myintelligence is incorrect. 

The highest gratification was yet in store for me: in respect to anarchitectural treat. In our way to the Saloon, I noticed, over the door ofa passage, a small whole length of a man, in a formal peruke and dress, walking with a cane in his hand. A noble building or two appeared in thebackground. "Who might this be?" "That, Sir, (replied the Dean) is theportrait of the architect of THIS MONASTERY and of MÖLK. He was born, andlived, in an obscure village in the neighbourhood; and rose to unrivalledeminence from the pure strength of native genius and prudent conduct. " Ilooked at the portrait with increased admiration. "Might I have a copy ofit--for the purpose of getting it engraved?" "There can surely be noobjection, "--replied the Dean. But alas, my friend, I fear it will never bemy lot to possess this portrait--in _any_ form or condition. 

If my admiration of this architect increased as I continued to gaze uponhis portrait, to what a pitch was it raised on entering the _Saloon_! Ibelieve that I may safely say I never before witnessed such a banquettingroom. It could not be less than sixty feet long, by forty feet wide andforty high;--and almost entirely composed of Salzburg marble, [98] which isof a deep red tint, but mellow and beautiful. The columns, in exceedinglybold alto-relievo, spring from a dado about the height of a man's chest, and which is surmounted by a bold and beautiful architrave. These columns, of the Ionic and Corinthian orders, judiciously intermixed, rise to a finebold height: the whole being terminated by a vaulted ceiling of a beautifuland light construction, and elaborately and richly ornamented. I neverwitnessed a finer proportioned or a more appropriately ornamented room. Itis, of its kind, as perfect as the Town Hall at Augsbourg;[99] and suitablefor an imperial coronation. 

To a question respecting the antiquity of the monastery, [100] J M. Kleinreplied, that their _crypt_ was considered to be of the eleventh century. Ihad not a moment's leisure to examine it, but have some doubts of theaccuracy of such a date. The Dean, M. Klein, and several monks followed usdown stairs, where the carriage was drawn up to receive us--and helping usinto it, they wished us a hearty farewell. Assuredly I am not likely toforget THE MONASTERY OF ST. FLORIAN. 

We were not long in reaching _Ens_, the first post town on the high roadfrom Lintz to Vienna. On approaching it, our valet bade us notice thevarious signs of _reparation_ of which the outer walls and the fronts ofmany houses gave evidence. Nearly half of the town, in short, (as heinformed us) had been destroyed by fire in Bonaparte's advance upon Vienna. The cannon balls had done much, but the flames had done more. We slept atthe next post town, _Strengberg_, but could not help continuing to expressour surprise and admiration of the fruit trees (the pear and plum) whichlined each side of the road. We had determined upon dining at Mölk the nextday. The early morning was somewhat inauspicious; but as the day advanced, it grew bright and cheerful. Some delightful glimpses of the Danube, to theleft, from the more elevated parts of the road, accompanied us the wholeway; till we caught the first view, beneath a bright blue sky, of thetowering church and MONASTERY OF MÖLK. [101] Conceive what you please, andyet you shall not conceive the situation of this monastery. Less elevatedabove the road than Chremsminster, but of a more commanding style ofarchitecture, and of considerably greater extent, it strikes you--as theDanube winds round and washes its rocky base--as one of the noblestedifices in the world. The wooded heights of the opposite side of theDanube crown the view of this magnificent edifice, in a manner hardly to besurpassed. There is also a beautiful play of architectural lines andornament in the front of the building, indicative of a pure Italian taste, and giving to the edifice, if not the air of towering grandeur, at least ofdignified splendour. I send you a small bird's-eye view of it--necessarilyfurnishing a very inadequate representation--for which I am indebted toProfessor Pallas, the Sub-Principal. 

[Illustration]

As usual, I ordered a late dinner, intending to pay my respects to thePrincipal, and obtain permission to inspect the library. My late monasticvisits had inspired me with confidence; and I marched up the steep sides ofthe hill, upon which the monastery is built, quite assured of the successof the visit I was about to pay. You must now accompany the bibliographerto the monastery. In five minutes from entering the outer gate of the firstquadrangle--looking towards Vienna, and which is the more ancient part ofthe building--I was in conversation with the Vice Principal and Librarian, each of us speaking Latin. I delivered the letter which I had received atSalzburg, and proceeded to the library. In proceeding with the Librarianalong the first corridor, I passed a portly figure, with an expressivecountenance, dressed precisely like the Duke of Norfolk, [102] in blackwaistcoat, breeches, and stockings, with a gray coat. He might seem to be asort of small paper copy of that well-known personage, for he resembled himin countenance as well as in dress. On meeting, he saluted me graciously:and he had no sooner passed, than my guide whispered in my ear, "THAT isthe famous bibliographer, the ABBÉ STRATTMAN, late principal librarian tothe Emperor. " I was struck at this intelligence; and wished to run backafter the Abbé, --but, in a minute, found myself within the library. I firstwent into a long, narrow, room--devoted, the greater part, to MSS. :--and atthe hither end of which (that is, the end where I entered) were twofigures--as large as, and painted after, the life. They were cut out inwood, or thick pasteboard; and were stuck in the centre of the spacebetween the walls. One was an old gentleman, with a pair of bands, and alady, his wife, opposite to him. Each was sitting upon a chair. A dog (if Iremember rightly) was between them. The effect was at first rather_startling_; for these good folks, although they had been sitting for thebest part of a century, looked like life, and as if they were going to riseup, and interrogate you for impertinently intruding upon their privacy. Onnearing them, I found that the old gentleman had been a great pedagogue, and a great benefactor to the library: in short, the very MSS. By which wewere surrounded were _solid_ proofs of his liberality. I was urgent andparticular about the _contents_ of these MSS. ; but my guide (otherwise acommunicative and well-informed man) answered my questions in a manner sogeneral, as to lead me to conclude that they had never been sufficientlyexamined. There might be at least four thousand volumes in this long andnarrow room. 

From thence we proceeded, across a passage, to a small room--filled withcommon useful books, for the young men of which the monastic society is nowcomposed; and who I learnt were about one hundred and twenty in number. There were, however, at one end of this room, some coins and medals. I wascurious about ascertaining whether they had any _Greek gold coins_, but wasanswered that they had none. This room is divided into two, by a partitionsomething like the modern fashion of dividing our drawing rooms. The wholeis profusely ornamented with paintings executed upon the walls; ratherelegantly than otherwise. The view from this library is reallyenchanting--and put every thing seen, from a similar situation at Landshut, and almost even at Chremsminster, out of my recollection. You look downupon the Danube, catching a fine sweep of the river, as it widens in itscourse towards Vienna. A man might sit, read, and gaze--in such asituation--till he fancied he had scarcely one earthly want! I nowdescended a small stair-case, which brought me directly into the largelibrary--forming the right wing of the building, looking up the Danubetowards Lintz. I had scarcely uttered three notes of admiration, when theABBÉ STRATTMAN entered; and to my surprise and satisfaction, addressed meby name. We immediately commenced an ardent unintermitting conversation inthe French language, which the Abbé speaks fluently and correctly. Wedarted at once into the lore of bibliography of the fifteenth century; whenthe Abbé descanted largely upon the wonders I should see atVienna:--especially the Sweynheyms and Pannartz' UPON VELLUM! "Here(continued he) there is absolutely nothing worthy of your inspection. Wehave here no edit. Prin. Of _Horace_, or _Virgil_, or _Terence_, or_Lucretius_: a copy of the _Decretals of Pope Boniface_, of the date of1465, is our earliest and only VELLUM treasure of the XVth century. But youwill doubtless take the _Monastery of Göttwic_ in your way?" I replied thatI was wholly ignorant of the existence of such a monastery. "Then seeit--(said, he) and see it carefully; for the library contains _Incunabula_of the most curious and scarce kind. Besides, its situation is the noblestin Austria. " You will give me credit for not waiting for a _second_importunity to see such a place, before I answered--"I will most assuredlyvisit the monastery of Göttwic. "

I now took a leisurely survey of the library; which is, beyond all doubt, the finest room of its kind which I have seen upon the Continent:--not forits size, but for its style of architecture, and the materials of which itis composed. I was told that it was "the Imperial Library inminiature:"--but with this difference, let me here add, in favour ofMölk--that it looks over a magnificently-wooded country, with the Danuberolling its rapid course at its base. The wainscot and shelves are walnuttree, of different shades, inlaid, or dovetailed, surmounted by giltornaments. The pilasters have Corinthian capitals of gilt; and the bolderor projecting parts of a gallery, which surrounds the room, are coveredwith the same metal. Every thing is in harmony. This library may be about ahundred feet in length, by forty in width. It is sufficiently wellfurnished with books, of the ordinary useful class, and was once, Isuspect, much richer in the bibliographical lore of the fifteenth century. The Abbé Strattman bade me examine a _MS. Of Horace_, of the twelfthcentury, which he said had been inspected by Mitscherlich. [103] It seemedto be of the period adjudged to it. The Vice-Principal, M. PALLAS, now madehis appearance. He talked French readily, and we all four commenced a veryinteresting conversation, "Did any books ever travel out of thislibrary?"--said I. "Surely there must be many which are rather objects ofcuriosity than of utility: rarely consulted, no doubt; but which, by beingexchanged for others of a more modern and useful description, wouldcontribute more effectually to the purposes of public education, in anestablishment of such magnitude?"

These questions I submitted with great deference, and without the leasthesitation, to the Vice Principal; who replied in such a manner as toinduce me immediately to ascend the staircase, and commence areconnaissance among the books placed above the gallery. The result oftwenty minutes examination was, if not absolutely of the _most_ gratifyingkind, at least sufficient to induce me to offer _twenty louis d'or_ forsome thirty volumes, chiefly thin quartos, containing many Greekgrammatical and philosophical tracts, of which I had never before seencopies. Some scarce and curious theological Latin tracts were also in thisnumber. I turned the books upon their fore-edges, leaving their endsoutwards, in order to indicate those which had been selected. M. Pallastold me that he could say nothing definitive in reply, [104] for that thematter must be submitted to the Prelate, or head of the monastery, who, atthat time, was at Vienna, perhaps at the point of death. From the librarywe went to the church. This latter is situated between the two wings: thewings themselves forming the Saloon and the library. As we were about toleave the library, the Abbé observed--"Here, we have food for the _mind_:in the opposite quarter we dine--which is food for the _body_:[105] betweenboth, is the church, which contains food for the _soul_. " On entering thecorridor, I looked up and saw the following inscription (from 1 _Mac. _ c. Xii. V. 9. ) over the library door: "_Habentes solatio sanctos libros quisunt in manibus nostris_. " My next gratification was, a view of theportrait of BERTHOLDUS DIETMAYR--the founder, or rather the restorer, bothof the library and of the monastery--possessing a countenance full ofintelligence and expression. Beneath the portrait, which is scarcely halfthe size of life, is the following distich:

 _Bertholdi Dietmayr Quidquid Mortale, Tabella, Ingentemque animum_ BIBLIOTHECA, _refert. _

"There, " exclaimed the Abbé Strattman--"there you have the portrait of a_truly_ great man: one of the three select and privy counsellors of theEmperor Charles VI. Dietmayr was a man of a truly lofty soul, of a refinedtaste, and of unbounded wealth and liberality of spirit. Even longer thanthis edifice shall last, will the celebrity of its founder endure. " Myheart overflowed with admiration as I heard the words of the Abbé, gazing, at the same time, intently upon the portrait of the Prelate Dietmayr. Suchmen keep the balance of this world even. 

On reaching the last descending step, just before entering the church, theVice Principal bade me look upwards and view the cork-screw stair-case. Idid so: and to view and admire was one and the same operation of the mind. It was the most perfect and extraordinary thing of the kind which I hadever seen--the consummation (as I was told) of that particular species ofart. The church is the very perfection of ecclesiastical Romanarchitecture: that of Chremsminster, although fine, being much inferior toit in loftiness and richness of decoration. The windows are fixed so as tothrow their concentrated light beneath a dome, of no ordinary height, andof no ordinary elegance of decoration; but this dome is suffering fromdamp, and the paintings upon the ceiling will, unless repaired, be effacedin the course of a few years. The church is in the shape of a cross; and atthe end of each of the transepts, is a rich altar, with statuary, in thestyle of art usual about a century ago. The pews--made of dark mahogany orwalnut tree, much after the English fashion, but lower and moretasteful--are placed on each side of the nave, on entering; with amplespace between them. They are exclusively appropriated to the tenants of themonastery. At the end of the nave, you look to the left, opposite, --andobserve, placed in a recess--a PULPIT ... Which, from top to bottom, iscompletely covered with gold. And yet, there is nothing gaudy, ortasteless, or glaringly obtrusive, in this extraordinary clerical rostrum. The whole is in the most perfect taste; and perhaps more judgment wasrequired to manage such an ornament, or appendage, --consistently with thesplendid style of decoration exacted by the founder--(for it was expresslythe Prelate Dietmayr's wish that it _should_ be so adorned) than may, onfirst consideration, be supposed. In fact, the whole church is in a blazeof gold; and I was told that the gilding alone cost upwards of ninetythousand florins. Upon the whole, I understood that the church of thismonastery was considered as the most beautiful in Austria; and I can easilybelieve it to be so. 

The time flew away so quickly that there was no opportunity of seeing theSaloon. Indeed, I was informed that it was occupied by the students--anadditional reason why I _ought_ to have seen it. "But have you no oldpaintings, Mr. Vice Principal--no Burgmairs, Cranachs, or Albert Durers?"said I to M. Pallas. "Ha! (observed he in reply, ) you like old pictures, then, as well as old books. Come with me, and you shall be satisfied. " Sosaying, the Abbé Strattman[106] left us, and I followed the VicePrincipal--into a small, wainscoted room, of which he touched the springsof some of the compartments, and anon there was exhibited to my view aseries of sacred subjects, relating to the Life of Christ, executed by thefirst and last named masters: exceedingly fresh, vigorously painted, andone or two of them very impressive, but bordering upon the grotesque. I amnot sure that I saw any thing more striking of the kind even in theextraordinary collection at Augsbourg. From this room I was conducted intothe Prelate's apartment, where I observed a bed--in an arched recess--whichmight be called a bed of state. "Our Prelate has left his apartment for thelast time; he will never sleep in this bed again"--observed M. Pallas, fixing himself at the foot of it, and directing his eyes towards thepillow. I saw what it was to be beloved and respected; for the VicePrincipal took the end of his gown to wipe away a little _dust_ (as he waspleased to call it--but I suspect it was a starting tear) which had falleninto his eye. I was then shewn a set of china, manufactured at Vienna--uponsome of the pieces of which were painted views of the monastery. This hadbeen presented to the Prelate; and I was then, as a final exhortation, requested to view the country around me. Need I again remark, that thiscountry was enchantingly fine?

On returning to the inn, and dining, we lingered longer than we were wontto do over our dessert and white wine, when the valet came to announce tous that from thence to _St. Pölten_ was a long stage; and that if we wishedto reach the latter before dark, we had not ten minutes to spare. This hintwas sufficient: and the ten minutes had scarcely elapsed when we were onthe high road to St. Pölten. It was indeed almost with the last glimmer ofdaylight that we entered this town, yet I could observe, on descending thehill by which we entered it, a stone crucifix, with the usual accompanyinggroup. I resolved to give it a careful examination on the morrow. 

The inn at St. Pölten (I think it was the Dolphin) surprised us by itscheerfulness and neatness. The rooms were papered so as to represent gothicinteriors, or ornamented gardens, or shady bowers. Every thingwas--almost--as an Englishman could wish it to be. Having learnt that theMONASTERY OF GÖTTWIC was a digression of only some twelve or fourteenmiles, I resolved to set off to visit it immediately after an earlybreakfast. We had scarcely left the town, when we observed a group ofrustics, with a crucifix carried in front--indicating that they were aboutto visit some consecrated spot, for the purpose of fulfilling a vow orperforming an annual pilgrimage. I stopped the carriage, to take a surveyof so novel a scene; but I confess that there was nothing in it whichinduced me to wish to be one of the party. If I mistake not, this was thefirst pilgrimage or procession, of the kind, which I had seen in Austria, or even in Bavaria. It was a sorry cavalcade. Some of the men, and evenwomen, were without shoes and stockings; and they were scattered about theroad in a very loose, straggling manner. Many of the women wore a piece oflinen, or muslin, half way up their faces, over the mouth; and although theroad was not very smooth, both men and women appeared to be in excellentspirits, and to move briskly along--occasionally singing, and looking up tothe crucifix--which a stout young man carried at the head of them. Theywere moving in the direction of the Monastery of Göttwic. 

It was cold and cloudy at starting; but on leaving the main road, andturning to the left, the horizon cleared up--and it was evident that a fineday was in store for us. Our expectations were raised in proportion to theincreasing beauty of the day. The road, though a cross one, was good;winding through a pleasant country, and affording an early glimpse of themonastery in question--at the distance of at least ten miles--and situatedupon a lofty eminence. The first view of it was grand and imposing, andstimulated us to urge our horses to a speedier course. The countrycontinued to improve. Some vineyards were beginning to shew the early blushof harvest; and woods of fir, and little meandring streams running betweenpicturesque inequalities of ground, gave an additional interest to everyadditional mile of the route. At length we caught a glimpse of a crowd ofpeople, halting, in all directions. Some appeared to be sitting, othersstanding, more lying; and a good number were engaged in devotion before astatue. As we approached them, we observed the statue to be that of St. Francis; around which this numerous group of pilgrims appeared to havemarshalled themselves--making a HALT in their pilgrimage (as we afterwardslearnt) to the monastery of Göttwic. 

The day continued to become more and more brilliant, and the scenery tokeep pace with the weather. It was evident that we were nearing themonastery very rapidly. On catching the first distinct view of it, mycompanion could not restrain his admiration. At this moment, from thesteepness of the ascent, I thought it prudent to descend, and to walk tothe monastery. The view from thence was at once commanding and enchanting. The Danube was the grand feature in the landscape; while, near its veryborders, at the distance perhaps of three English miles, stood the posttown of _Chrems_. The opposite heights of the Danube were well covered withwood. The sun now shone in his meridian splendour, and every feature of thecountry seemed to be in a glow with his beams. I next turned my thoughts togain entrance within the monastery, and by the aid of my valet it was notlong before that wished for object was accomplished. The interior is largeand handsome, but of less architectural splendor than Mölk or even St. Florian. The librarian, Odilo Klama, was from home. Not a creature was tobe found; and I was pacing the cloisters with a dejected air, when myservant announced to me that the Vice Principal would receive me, andconduct me to the Head or President. 

This was comforting intelligence. I revived in an instant; and following, along one corridor, and up divers stair-cases, I seemed to be gaining thesummit of the building, when a yet more spacious corridor brought me to thedoor of the President's apartments: catching views, on my way thither, ofincreasing extent and magnificence. But all consideration of exteriorobjects was quickly lost on my reception at head quarters. The Principal, whose name is ALTMANN, was attired in a sort of half-dignity dress; a goldchain and cross hung upon his breast, and a black silk cap covered hishead. A gown, and what seemed to be a cassock, covered his body. He had thecomplete air of a gentleman, and might have turned his fiftieth year. Hiscountenance bespoke equal intelligence and benevolence:--but alas! not aword of French could he speak--and Latin was therefore necessarily resortedto by both parties. I entreated him to forgive all defects of compositionand of pronunciation; at which he smiled graciously. The Vice Principalthen bowed to the Abbot and retreated; but not before I had observed themto whisper apart--and to make gesticulations which I augured to portendsomething in the shape of providing refreshment, if not dinner. Mysuspicion was quickly confirmed; for, on the Vice Principal quitting theapartment, the Abbot observed to me--"you will necessarily partake of ourdinner--which is usually at _one_ o'clock; but which I have postponed till_three_, in order that I may conduct you over the monastery, and shew youwhat is worthy of observation. You have made a long journey hither, andmust not be disappointed. "

The manner in which this was spoken was as courteous as the purport of thespeech was hospitable. "Be pleased to be covered (continued the Abbot) andI will conduct you forthwith to the Library: although I regret to add thatour Librarian Odilo is just now from home--having gone, for the day, upon abotanical excursion towards Chrems--as it is now holiday time. " In our wayto the library, I asked the Principal respecting the revenues of theestablishment and its present condition--whether it were flourishing orotherwise--adding, that Chremsminster appeared to me to be in a veryflourishing state. " "They are much wealthier (observed the Principal) atChremsminster than we are here. Establishments like this, situated near ametropolis, are generally more _severely_ visited than are those in aretired and remote part of the kingdom. Our very situation is inviting to afoe, from its commanding the adjacent country. Look at the prospect aroundyou. It is unbounded. On yon opposite wooded heights, (on the other side ofthe Danube) we all saw, from these very windows, the fire and smoke of theadvanced guard of the French army, in contest with the Austrians, uponBonaparte's first advance towards Vienna. The French Emperor himself tookpossession of this monastery. He slept here, and we entertained him thenext day with the best _dejeuné à la fourchette_ which we could afford. Heseemed well satisfied with his reception; but I own that I was glad when heleft us. Strangers to arms in this tranquil retreat, and visited only, asyou may now visit us, for the purpose of peaceful hospitality, it agitatedus extremely to come in contact with warriors and chieftains. 

The preceding was not delivered in one uninterrupted flow of language; butI only string it together as answers to various questions put by myself. "Observe yonder"--continued the Abbot--"do you notice an old castle in thedistance, to the left, situated almost upon the very banks of the Danube?""I observe it well, " replied I. "That castle, (answered he) so traditionreports, once held your Richard the First, when he was detained a prisonerby Leopold Marquis of Austria, on his return from the Holy-Land. " The morethe Abbot spoke, and the more I continued to gaze around, the more Ifancied myself treading upon faëry ground, and that the scene in which Iwas engaged partook of the illusion of romance. "Our funds (continued myintelligent guide, as he placed his hand upon my arm, and arrested ourprogress towards the library) need be much more abundant than they reallyare. We have great burdens to discharge. All our food is brought from aconsiderable distance, and we are absolutely dependant upon our neighboursfor water, as there are neither wells nor springs in the soil. " "I wonder(replied I) why such a spot was chosen--except for its insulated andcommanding situation--as water is the first requisite in every monasticestablishment?" "Do you then overlook the _Danube_?"--resumed he--"We getour fish from thence; and, upon the whole, feel our wants less than itmight be supposed. "

In our way to the Library, I observed a series of oil paintings along thecorridor--which represented the history of the founder, and of thefoundation, of the monastery. [107] The artist's name was, if I rememberrightly, Helgendoeffer--or something like it. Many of the subjects werecurious, and none of them absolutely ill executed. I observed the devil, orsome imp, introduced in more than one picture; and remarked upon it to myguide. He said--"where will you find truth unmixed with fiction?" Myobservation was adroitly parried; and we now found ourselves close to thelibrary door; where three or four Benedictins, (for I should have told youthat this famous monastery is of the order of _St. Benedict_) professors onthe establishment, were apparently waiting to receive us. They firstsaluted the Abbot very respectfully, and then myself--with a degree ofcheerfulness amounting almost to familiarity. In a remote and strangeplace, of such a character, nothing is more encouraging than such areception. Two of our newly joined associates could luckily speak theFrench language, which rendered my intercourse with the Principal yet morepleasing and satisfactory to myself. The library door was now opened, and Ifound myself within a long and spacious room--of which the book-shelveswere composed of walnut tree--but of which the architectural ornaments werescarcely to be endured, after having so recently seen those in the libraryof Mölk. However, it may be fairly said that the Library was worthy of theMonastery: well stored with books and MSS. , and probably the richest inbibliographical lore in Austria, after that at Vienna. 

We now entered the saloon, for dinner. It was a larger light, and loftyroom. The ceiling was covered with paintings of allegorical subjects, infresco, descriptive of the advantages of piety and learning. Among thevarious groups, I thought I could discern--as I could only take a hastysurvey during my meal--the apotheosis of the founder of the monastery. Perhaps I rather wished to see it there, than that it was absolutelydepicted. However, we sat down, at the high table--precisely as you mayremember it in the halls at Oxford--to a plentiful and elegant repast. ThePrincipal did me the honour of placing me at his right hand. Grace was nosooner said, than Mr. Lewis made his appearance, and seemed to view thescene before him with mingled delight and astonishment. He had, in fact, just completed his sketch of the monastery, and was well satisfied atseeing me in such quarters, and so occupied. The brethren were also wellpleased to receive him, but first begged to have a glance at thedrawing--with which they were highly gratified. 

My companion having joined the festive board, the conversation, and thecups of Rhenish wine, seemed equally to circulate without restraint. Wewere cheerful, even to loud mirth; and the smallness of the party, comparedwith the size of the hall, caused the sounds of our voices to bereverberated from every quarter. Meantime, the sun threw his radiant beamsthrough a window of noble dimensions, quite across the saloon--so as tokeep us in shadow, and illuminate the other parts of the room. Thus we werecool, but the day without had begun to be sultry. Behind me, or ratherbetween the Abbot and myself, stood a grave, sedate, and inflexible-lookingattendant--of large, square dimensions--habited in a black gown, whichscarcely reached the skirts of his coat. He spake not; he moved not; savewhen he saw my glass emptied, which without any previous notice orpermission, he made a scrupulous point of filling ... Even to the verybrim!... With the most highly flavoured Rhenish wine which I had yet tastedin Germany. Our glasses being of the most capacious dimensions, it behovedme to cast an attentive eye upon this replenishing process; and I told theworthy master of the table that we should be quickly revelling in our cups. He assured me that the wine, although good, was weak; but begged that Iwould consider myself at liberty to act as I pleased. 

In due time, the cloth was cleared; and a dessert, consisting chiefly ofdelicious peaches, succeeded. A new order of bottles was introduced; tall, square, and capacious; which were said to contain wine of the same quality, but of a more delicate flavour. It proved indeed to be most exquisite. Thepast labours of the day, together with the growing heat, had given a relishto every thing which I tasted; and, in the full flow of my spirits, Iproposed--a sentiment, which I trusted would be considered as perfectlyorthodox--"Long life, and happy times to the present members, andincreasing prosperity to, the monastery of Göttwic. " It was received anddrank with enthusiasm. The Abbot then proceeded to give me an account of avisit paid him by Lord Minto, some years ago, when the latter wasambassador at Vienna; and he spoke of that nobleman's intelligentconversation, and amiable manners, in a way which did him great credit. "Come, Sir;" said he: "you shall not find me ungrateful. I propose drinkingprosperity and long life to every representative of the British nation whois resident at Vienna. May the union between your country and ours becomeindissoluble. " I then requested that we might withdraw; as the hours wereflying away, and as we purposed sleeping within one stage of Vienna on thatsame evening. 

"Your wishes shall be mine, " answered the Abbot. Whereupon he rose--withall the company--and stepping some few paces backwards, placed his handsacross his breast upon the gold cross; half closed his eyes; and saidgrace--briefly and softly; in a manner the most impressive which I had everwitnessed. We then quickly left the noble room in which we had beenbanquetting, and prepared to visit the church and what might be called thestate apartments, which we had not before seen. After the rooms at St. Florian, there was not much particularly to admire in those of Göttwic:except that they appeared to be better lighted, and most of them commandedtruly enchanting views of the Danube and of the surrounding country. In oneroom, of smaller dimensions, ornamented chiefly in white and gold (if Iremember rightly) a _Collection of Prints_ was kept; but those which I sawwere not very remarkable for their antiquity, or for their beauty ofsubject or of impression. The sun was now getting low, and we had a stageof at least fourteen miles to accomplish ere we could think of retiring torest. 

"Show us now, worthy Sir, your crypt and church; and then, with pain be itpronounced, we must bid you farewell. Within little more than two hours, darkness will have covered the earth. " Such was my remark to the Abbot; whoreplied: "Say not so: we cannot part with you yet. At any rate you must notgo without a testimony of the respect we entertain for the object of yourvisit. Those who love books, will not object to increase their own stock bya copy of our CHRONICON GOTWICENSE--commenced by one of my learnedpredecessors, but alas! never completed. Come with me to my room, before wedescend to the church, and receive the work in question. " Upon which, theamiable Head of the monastery set off, at rather a hurried pace, withmyself by the side of him, along several corridors--towards his ownapartment, to present me with this Chronicle. I received it with everydemonstration of respect--and entreated the Abbot to inscribe a "_donodedit_" in the fly leaf, which would render it yet more valuable in myestimation. [108] He cheerfully complied with this request. The courtesy, the frankness, the downright heartiness of feeling with which all this wasdone--together with the value of the present--rendered it one of the mostdelightful moments of my existence. I instinctively caught the Abbot's arm, pressed his hand with a cordial warmth between both of mine--and pausingone little moment, exclaimed "_Dies hic omninò commemoratione dignus!_"

A sort of sympathetic shouting succeeded; for, by this time, the whole ofour party had reached the Abbot's rooms. I now requested, to be immediatelytaken to the church; and within five minutes we were in the crypt. Itscarcely merits one word of description on the score of antiquity; and maybe, at the farthest, somewhere about three centuries old. The church issmall and quite unpretending, as a piece of architecture. On quitting thechurch, and passing through the last court, or smaller quadrangle, we cameto the outer walls: and leaving them, we discerned--below--the horses, carriage, and valet ... Waiting to receive us. Our amiable Host and hisBenedictin brethren determined to walk a little way down the hill, to seeus fairly seated and ready to start. I entreated and remonstrated that thismight not be; but in vain. On reaching the carriage, we all shook handsvery cordially together, but certainly I pressed those of the Abbot moreearnestly than the rest. We then saluted by uncovering; and, stepping intothe carriage, I held aloft the first volume of the GÖTTWICCHRONICLE--exclaiming ... "_Valete, Domini eruditissimi: dies hiccommemoratione dignus_:" to which the Abbot replied, with peculiarlyemphatic sonorousness of voice, "_Vale: Deus te, omnesque tibi charissimos, conservet_. " They then stopped for a moment ... As the horses began to beput in motion ... And retracing their steps up the hill, towards the outergate of the monastery, disappeared. I thought--but it might not be so--thatI discerned the Abbot, at the distance of some two hundred yards, yetlingering alone--with his right arm raised, and shaking it as the last andmost affectionate token of farewell. 

The evening was serene and mild; and the road, although a cross way, wasperfectly sound--winding through a country of fertility and picturesquebeauty. We saw few vineyards: but those which met our eyes showed the grapeto be in its full purple tint, if not beginning to ripen. I had resolvedupon stopping to sleep at _Sirghartskirchen_ within two stages ofVienna--thus avoiding the post town of _Perschling_, which is situated inthe direct road to Vienna from _St. Pölten_--which latter place, as you mayremember, we had left in the morning. Before the darker shades of eveningbegan to prevail, we turned round to catch a farewell glance of thehospitable monastery which we had left behind--and were lucky in viewingit, (scarcely less than seven or eight miles in our rear) just as theoutline of its pinnacles could be discerned against a clear, and yet almostbrilliant, sky. 

It was quite dark, and nearer upon eleven than ten o'clock, when we enteredthe insignificant post town of _Sirghartskirchen_--where we stretched ourlimbs rather than reposed; and after a hasty, but not very ill providedbreakfast, the next morning, we pushed on for _Burkersdorf_, the last posttown on that side of Vienna. It may be about nine English miles fromBurkersdorf to the capital; of which the greater part is rather agreeablethan otherwise. It was here, as in approaching Strasbourg, that I turned myeyes in all directions to catch an early glimpse of the tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral, but in vain. At length, to the right, we saw themagnificent chateau of _Schönbrunn_. 

The road now became flat and sandy, and the plains in the vicinity of thecapital destitute of trees. "Voilà la Cathedrale!" shouted the valet. Itwas to the left, or rather a little in front: of a tapering, spire-likeform: but, seeing only a small portion of it--the lower part beingconcealed by the intervening rising ground--I could form no judgment of itsheight. We now neared the suburbs, which are very extensive, and swarmingwith population. I learnt that they entirely surrounded the capital, in anequal state of populousness. The barriers were now approached: and all thefears, which my accidental travelling acquaintance at Augsbourg had putinto my head, began to revive and to take possession of me. But what has anhonest man to fear? "Search closely (observed I to the principal examiningofficer) for I suspect that there is something contraband at the bottom ofthe trunk. Do you forbid the importation of an old Greek manual ofdevotion?"--said I, as I saw him about to lay his hand upon the preciousAldine volume, of which such frequent mention has been already made. Theofficer did not vouchsafe even to open the leaves--treating it, questionless, with a most sovereign contempt; but crying, "bah!--vouspouvez bien passer, " he replaced the things which he had very slightlydiscomposed, and added that he wished all contraband articles to consist ofsimilar materials. We parted with mutual smiles; but I thought therelingered something like a feeling of reproach, in the last quiver or turnof his lip, at my not having slipt two or three florins into hishand--which was broad and brawny enough to have grasped threescore or ahundred. "I will remember you on my return, "--exclaimed I, as the carriagedrove off. He gave me a most sceptical shake of the head, as he retreatedinto his little tenement, like a mastiff into his kennel. 

The whole of VIENNA, as it now seemed--with its cathedral, churches, palaces, and ramparts--was before us. As we approached the chief entrance, or gateway, I recognised the _Imperial Library_; although it was only aback view of it. In truth, it appeared to be just as I remembered it in thevignette-frontispiece of Denis's folio catalogue of the Latin TheologicalMSS. Contained in the same library. My memory proved to be faithful; for wewere assured that the building in view _was_ the library in question. Itwas our intention to take up our quarters at the principal inn, called the_Empress of Austria_; and, with this view, we drove up to the door of thathotel: but a tall, full-dressed man, with a broad sash across his body, anda silver-tipped staff in his right hand, marched pompously up to the doorof the carriage, took off his hat, and informed us with great solemnitythat "the hotel was entirely filled, and that his master could not have thehonour of entertaining us. " On receiving this intelligence, we werecomforted by the assurance, on the part of the post-boy and valet, that thesecond hotel, called the _Crown of Hungary_, --and situated in the_Himelfort Gasse_, or _Heaven-gate Street_--was in every respect asdesirable as that which we were compelled to quit. Accordingly we alightedat the door of the _Hungarische Krone_--equally marvelling, all the waythither, at the enormous size of the houses, and at the narrowness of thestreets. 

But it is time to terminate this epistle. Yet I must not fail informingyou, that every thing strikes me as approximating very much to my ownnative country. The countenances, the dresses, the manners of theinhabitants, are very nearly English. My apartments are gay as well ascomfortable. A green-morocco sofa, beneath a large and curiously cutlooking-glass--with chairs having velvet seats, and wainscot and ceilingvery elegantly painted and papered--all remind me that I am in arespectable hotel. A strange sight occupied my attention the very firstmorning after my arrival. As the day broke fully into my room--it might bebetween five and six o'clock--I heard a great buzzing of voices in thestreet. I rose, and looking out of window, saw, from one end of the streetto the other, a countless multitude of women--sitting, in measured ranks, with pots of cream and butter before them. It was in fact the chief marketday for fruit, cream, and butter; and the _Himelfort Gasse_ is theprincipal mart for the sale of these articles. The weather has recentlybecome milder, and I feel therefore in better trim for the attack upon theIMPERIAL LIBRARY, where I deliver my credentials, or introductory letters, to-morrow. God bless you. 

[97] St. FLORIAN was a soldier and sufferer in the time of the Emperors Diocletian and Maximinian. He perished in the tenth and last persecution of the Christian Church by the Romans. The judge, who condemned him to death, was Aquilinus. After being importuned to renounce the Christian religion, and to embrace the Pagan creed, as the only condition of his being rescued from an immediate and cruel death, St. Florian firmly resisted all entreaties; and shewed a calmness, and even joyfulness of spirits, in proportion to the stripes inflicted upon him previous to execution. He was condemned to be thrown into the river, from a bridge, with a stone fastened round his neck. The soldiers at first hesitated about carrying the judgment of Aquilinus into execution. A pause of an hour ensued: which was employed by St. Florian in prayer and ejaculation! A furious young man then rushed forward, and precipitated the martyr into the river: "Fluvius autem suscipiens martyrem Christi, expavit, et elevatis undis suis, in quodam eminentiori loco in saxo corpus ejus deposuit. Tunc annuente favore divino, adveniens aquila, expansis alis suis in modum crucis, eum protegebat. " _Acta Sanctorum; Mens. Maii_, vol. I. P. 463. St. Florian is a popular saint both in Bavaria and Austria. He is usually represented in armour, pouring water from a bucket to extinguish a house, or a city, in flames, which is represented below. Raderus, in his _Bavaria Sacra_, vol. I. P. 8, is very particular about this monastery, and gives a list of the pictures above noticed, on the authority of Sebastianus ab Adelzhausen, the head of the monastery at that time; namely in 1615. He also adorns his pages with a copper cut of the martyr about to be precipitated into the river, from the bank--with his hands tied behind him, without any stone about his neck. But the painting, as well as the text of the Acta Sanctorum, describes the precipitation as from a bridge. The form of the Invocation to the Saint is, "O MARTYR and SAINT, FLORIAN, keep us, we beseech thee, by night and by day, from all harm by FIRE, or from other casualties of this life. "

[98] "Nostris vero temporibus Reverendissimi Præpositi studio augustum sanc templum raro marmore affatim emicans, paucisque inuidens assurexit. " This is the language of the _Germania Austriaca, seu Topographia Omnium Germaniæ Provinciarum_, 1701, folio, p. 16: when speaking of THE MONASTERY of ST. FLORIAN. 

[99] See p. 78, ante. 

[100] It may be only sufficient to carry it as far back as the twelfth century. What precedes that period is, as usual, obscure and unsatisfactory. The monastery was originally of the _Benedictin_ order; but it was changed to the _Augustine_ order by Engelbert. After this latter, Altman reformed and put it upon a most respectable footing--in 1080. He was, however, a severe disciplinarian. Perhaps the crypt mentioned by M. Klein might be of the latter end of the XIIth century; but no visible portion of the superincumbent building can be older than the XVIth century. 

[101] The history of this monastery is sufficiently fertile in marvellous events; but my business is to be equally brief and sober in the account of it. In the _Scriptores Rerum Austriacarum_ of _Pez_, vol. I. Col. 162-309, there is a chronicle of the monastery, from the year of its foundation to 1564, begun to be written by an anonymous author in 1132, and continued to the latter period by other coeval writers--all monks of the monastery. It is printed by Pez for the first time--and he calls it "an ancient and genuine chronicle. " The word Mölk, or Mölck, --or, as it appears in the first map in the _Germania Austriaca, seu Topographia Omnium Germaniæ Provinciarum_, 1701, fol. Melck--was formerly written "Medilicense, Medlicense, Medlicum, Medlich, and Medelick, or Mellicense. " This anonymous chronicle, which concludes at col. 290, is followed by "a short chtonicle of Conrad de Wizenberg, " and "an anonymous history of the Foundation of the Monastery, " compared with six other MSS. Of the same kind in the library at Mölk. The whole is concluded by "an ancient Necrology of the Monastery, " commenced in the XIIth century, from a vellum MS. Of the same date. 

 In the _Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, we have a list of the Heads or Primates of Mölk, beginning with Sigiboldus, in 1089, (who was the first that succeeded Leopold, the founder) down to Valentinus, in 1638; who was living when the author published his work. There is also a copper-plate print of a bird's eye view of the monastery, in its ancient state, previously to the restoration of it, in its present form, by DIETMAYR. 

[102] [The late Duke. ]

[103] I do not however find it in the Notitia Literaria prefixed to the edition of Horace, published by Mitscherlich in 1800: see vol. I. P. Xxvi. Where he notices the MSS. Of the poet which are deposited in the libraries of Germany. 

[104] It was not till my arrival at Manheim, on my return to Paris, that I received the "definitive reply" of the worthy Sub-Principal--which was after the following manner. "Monsieur--La lettre du 21 Septembre, que vous m'avez faite l'honneur de m'écrire, je ne l'ai reçue que depuis peu, c'est-à-dire, depuis le retour de mon voyage. Les scrupules que vous faites touchant l'échange des livres, ont été levés par vous-même dans l'instant que vous en avez faites la proposition. Mais, malheureusement, la lettre qui devait apporter la confirmation du Prélat, n'a apportée que la triste nouvelle de sa mort. Vous sentez bien, que dès ce moment il ne sauroit plus être question de rien. Je ne doute pas, que quoique aucun livre ancien ne soit jusqu'à ce moment sorti de la Bibliothèque du Couvent, le Prélat n'eut fait une exception honorable en égard a l'illustre personnage auquel ces livres ont été destines et à la collection unique d'un art, a fait naitre toutes les bibliothèques, &c. J'ai l'honneur, &c. Votre trés humble et très obeisant serviteur, "

 [Autograph]

[105] In an octavo volume published by a Dr. Cadet, who was a surgeon in Bonaparte's army in the campaign in Austria, in 1809, and who entitles his work--_Voyage en Autriche, en Moravie, et en Bavière_--published at Paris in 1818--we are favoured with a slight but spirited account of the monastery of Mölk--of the magnificence of its structure, and of the views seen from thence: but, above all, of the PRODUCE OF ITS CELLARS. The French Generals were lodged there, in their route to Vienna; and the Doctor, after telling us of the extent of the vaults, and that a carriage might be turned with ease in some of them, adds, "in order to have an idea of the abundance which reigns there, it may be sufficient only to observe, that, for four successive days, during the march of our troops through Mölk, towards Vienna, there were delivered to them not less than from 50 to 60, 000 pints of wine per day--and yet scarcely one half of the stock was exhausted! The monastery, however, only contains twelve Réligieux. The interior of the church is covered with such a profusion of gilt and rich ornaments, that when the sun shines full upon it, it is difficult to view it without being dazzled. " Page 79. 

 The old monastery of Mölk successfully stood a siege of three months, against the Hungarians, in the year 1619. See _Germ. Austriaca_, &c. P. 18. 

[106] [The Abbé Strattman SURVIVED the above interview only about _five years_. I hope and trust that the worthy Vice Principal is as well NOW, as he was about three years ago, when my excellent friend Mr. Lodge, the Librarian of the University of Cambridge, read to him an off-hand German version of the whole of this account of my visit to his Monastery. ]

[107] This history has come down to us from well authenticated materials; however, in the course of its transmission, it may have been partially coloured with fables and absurdities. The Founder of the Monastery was ALTMANN, Bishop of Passau; who died in the year 1091, about twenty years after the foundation of the building. The two ancient biographies of the Founder, each by a Monk or Principal of the monastery, are introduced into the collection of Austrian historians by _Pez_; vol. I. Col. 112-162. Stengelius has a bird's eye view of the monastery as it appeared in 1638, and before the principal suite of apartments was built. But it is yet in an unfinished state; as the view of it from the copper-plate engraving, at page 248 ante, represents it with the _intended_ additions and improvements. These latter, in all probability, will never be carried into effect. This monastery enjoyed, of old, great privileges and revenues. It had twenty-two parish churches--four towns--several villages, &c. Subject to its ecclesiastical jurisdiction; and these parishes, together with the monastery itself, were not under the visitation of the Diocesan (of Passau) but of the Pope himself. Stengelius (_Monasteriologia_, sign. C) speaks of the magnificent views seen from the summit of the monastery, on a clear day; observing, however, (even in his time) that it was without springs or wells, and that it received the rain water in leaden cisterns. "Cæterùm (adds he) am[oen]issimum et plané aspectu jucundissimum habet situm. " Towards the middle of the seventeenth century, this monastery appears to have taken the noble form under which it is at present beheld. It has not however escaped from more than _one_ severe visitation by the Turks. 

[108] On my arrival in England, I was of course equally anxious and happy to place the CHRONICON GÖTWICENSE in the library at Althorp. But I have not, in the text above, done full justice to the liberality of the present Abbot of the monastery. He gave me, in addition, a copy--of perhaps a still scarcer work--entitled "_Notitia Austriæ Antiquæ et Mediæ seu tam Norici Veteris quam Pagi et Marchæ_, &c. " by MAGNUS KLEIN, Abbot of the monastery, and of which the first volume only was published "typis Monasterii Tegernseensis, " in 1781, 4to. This appears to be a very learned and curious work. And here ... Let me be allowed for the sake of all lovers of autographs of good and great men--to close this note with a fac-simile of the hand writing (in the "dono dedit"--as above mentioned) of the amiable and erudite donor of these acceptable volumes. It is faithfully thus:--the _original_ scription will only, I trust, perish with the book:

 [Autograph]

LETTER X. 

IMPERIAL LIBRARY. ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTSAND EARLY PRINTED BOOKS. 

VIENNA; _Hotel of the Crown of Hungary, Sept. 9, 1818_. 

It gave me the sincerest pleasure, my dear friend, to receive yourletter... Only a very few hours after the transmission of my last. At sucha distance from those we love and esteem, you can readily imagine the sortof _comfort_ which such communications impart. I was indeed rejoiced tohear of the health and welfare of your family, and of that of our friend **, who is indeed not only a thorough-bred _Rorburgher_, but a trulyexcellent and amiable man. The account of the last anniversary-meeting ofthe Club has, however, been a little painful to me; inasmuch as it provesthat a sort of _heresy_ has crept into the Society--which yourVice-President, on his return, will labour as effectually as he can toeradicate. [109]

I had anticipated your wishes. You tell me, "send all you can collect aboutthe IMPERIAL LIBRARY of Vienna; its MSS. And printed books: its treasuresin the shape of _Fifteeners_ and _Sixteeners_: in short, be copious (sayyou) in your description. " The present letter will at least convince youthat I have not been sparing in the account solicited; and, in truth, I amwell pleased to postpone a description of the buildings, and usual sightsand diversions of this metropolis, until I shall have passed a few moredays here, and had fuller opportunities of making myself acquainted withdetails. Compared with every other architectural interior which I have yetseen, this LIBRARY is beyond doubt the most magnificent in its structure. But if my admiration be thus great of the building, and of the _books_, itis at least equally so of _those_ who have the _management_ of them. Youmust know that I arrived here at a very unfortunate moment forbibliographical research. The holidays of the librarians commence at thelatter end of August, and continue 'till the end of September. I had nosooner delivered my letter of introduction to the well known Mons. ADAM DEBARTSCH--an Aulic Counsellor, and chief Director of the Library--than hestepped backward with a thoughtful and even anxious brow. "What is thematter, Sir, am I likely to be intrusive?" "My good friend"--repliedhe--taking my arm with as pleasant an air of familiarity as if I had beenan old acquaintance--"you have visited us at a most unlucky moment: but letme turn the matter over in my mind, and you shall have my determination onthe morrow. "

That "determination" was as agreeable as it was unexpected; and really onmy part--without the least affectation--unmerited. "I have been talking thematter over with my brethren and coadjutors in the library-department, (said M. Bartsch) and we have agreed--considering the great distance andexpense of your journey--to give you an extra week's research among ourbooks. We will postpone our regular trip to _Baden_, --whither the court, the noblesse, and our principal citizens at present resort--in order thatyou may have an opportunity of perfecting your enquiries. You will ofcourse make the most of your time. " I thanked M. Bartsch heartily andunfeignedly for his extreme civility and kindness, and told him that heshould not find me either slothful or ungrateful. In person M. Bartsch isshorter than myself; but very much stouter. He is known in the graphicworld chiefly by his _Le Peintre Graveur_; a very skilful, and indeed aninvaluable production, in sixteen or eighteen octavo volumes--illustratedwith some curious fac-similes. He is himself an artist of no ordinaryability; and his engravings, especially after some of Rubens's pictures, are quite admirable. Few men have done so much at his time of life, andborne the effect of so much strenuous toil, so well as himself. He is yetgay in spirit, vigorous in intellect, and sound in judgment; and thesimplicity of his character and manners (for in truth we are become quiteintimate) is most winning. [110] Messrs. PAYNE and KOPITAR are theLibrarians who more immediately attend to the examination of the books. Theformer is an Abbé--somewhat stricken in years, and of the most pleasing andsimple manners. I saw little of him, as he was anxious for the breezes ofBaden; but I saw enough to regret that he would not meet his brotherlibrarians at the hotel of the _Crown of Hungary_, where I had prepared thebest fare in my power to entertain them. [111]

M. Kopitar is an invaluable labourer in this bibliographical vineyard. Ihad formerly seen him while he was in England; when he came with Mr. HenryFoss to St. James's Place, to examine the _Aldine volumes_, and especiallythose printed upon vellum. He himself reminded me of the chary manner inwhich I seemed to allow him to handle those precious tomes. "You wouldscarcely permit me (said he smilingly) to hold them half a minute in myhands: but I will not treat you after the same fashion. You shall handle_our_ vellum books, whether in ms. Or in print, as long and as attentivelyas you please. " I felt the rebuke as it became a _preu_ chevalier inbibliography to feel it. "I am indebted to you, M. Kopitar, (said I, inreply) in more senses than _one_--- on this my visit to your ImperialLibrary. " "But (observed he quickly) you only did what you _ought_ to havedone. " All power of rejoinder was here taken away. M. Kopitar is athoroughly good scholar, and is conversant in the Polish, German, Hungarian, and Italian languages. He is now expressly employed upon the_Manuscripts_; but he told me (almost with a sigh!) that he had become sofond of the _Fifteeners_, that he reluctantly complied with the commands ofhis superiors in entering on the ms. Department. 

Before I lay my _Catalogue Raisonné_ of such books as I have examined, before you, it is right and fitting that I make some mention of theREPOSITORY in which these books are placed. In regard to the dimensions ofthe library, and the general leading facts connected with the erection ofthe building, as well as the number of the books, my authority is perhapsthe best that can be adduced: namely, that of Mons. De Bartsch himself. Know then, my good friend, that the Imperial Library of Vienna is builtover a succession of arched vaults, which are made to contain the carriagesof the Emperor. 

You ascend a broad staircase, to the left, which is lined with fragments ofGreek and Roman antiquities. Almost the first room which you enter, is theReading Room. This may hold about thirty students comfortably, but I thinkI saw more than forty on my first entrance: of whom several, with theinvincible phlegm of their country, were content to stand--leaning againstthe wall, with their books in their hands. This room is questionless toosmall for the object to which it is applied; and as it is the fashion, inthis part of the world, seldom or never to open the windows, the effect ofsuch an atmosphere of hydrogen is most revolting to sensitive nerves. Whenthe door was opened ... Which at once gave me the complete length view ofthe GRAND LIBRARY ... I was struck with astonishment! Such another sight issurely no where to be seen. [112] The airiness, the height, the splendour, the decorative minutiæ of the whole--to say nothing of the interminablerows of volumes of all sizes, and in all colours of morocco binding--putevery thing else out of my recollection. The floor is of red and whitemarble, diamond-wise. I walked along it, with M. Bartsch on my right handand M. Kopitar on my left, as if fearful to scratch its polishedsurface:--first gazing upon the paintings of the vaulted roof, and thenupon the statues and globes, alternately, below--while it seemed as if thepower of expressing the extent of my admiration, had been taken from me. Atlength I reached the central compartment of this wonderful room, which iscrowned with a sort of oval and very lofty cupola, covered with a profusionof fresco paintings. In the centre, below, stands a whole-length statue, inwhite marble, of CHARLES VI. , under whose truly imperial patronage thislibrary was built. Around him are sixteen whole length statues of certainAustrian Marshals, also in white marble; while the books, or rather folios, (almost wholly bound in red morocco) which line the sides of the whole ofthis transept division of the room, were pointed out to me as havingbelonged to the celebrated hero, PRINCE EUGENE. Illustrious man!--thought Ito myself--it is a taste like THIS which will perpetuate thy name, andextol thy virtues, even when the memory of thy prowess in arms shall havefaded away! "See yonder"--observed M. Bartsch--"there are, I know not howmany, atlas folios of that Prince's collection of PRINTS. It is thought tobe unrivalled. "

"But where (replied I) is the _statue_ of this heroic collector, to whomyour library is probably indebted for its choicest treasures? Tell me, whoare these marshals that seem to have no business in such a sanctuary of theMuses--while I look in vain for the illustrious Eugene?" There was moreforce in this remark than I could have possibly imagined--for my guide wassilent as to the names of these Austrian marshals, and seemed to admit, that PRINCE EUGENE... _ought_ to have been there. "But is it _too late_ toerect his statue? Cannot he displace one of these nameless marshals, whoare in attitude as if practising the third step of the _Minuet de laCour_?" "Doucement, doucement, mon ami ... (replied M. B. ) il fautconsidérer un peu.... " "Well, well--be it so: let me now continue mygeneral observation of the locale of this magical collection. " M. B. Readilyallowed me; and seemed silently to enjoy the gratification which I felt andexpressed. 

I then walked leisurely to the very extremity of the room; continuing tothrow a rapid, but not uninterested glance upon all the accessories ofgilding, carved work, paintings, and statuary, with which the whole seemedto be in a perfect blaze. I paced the library in various directions; andfound, at every turn or fresh point of view, a new subject of surprise andadmiration. There is a noble gallery, made of walnut tree, ornamented withgilding and constructed in a manner at once light and substantial, whichruns from one extremity of the interior to the other. It is a master-pieceof art in its way. Upon the whole, there is no furnishing you with any verycorrect notion of this really matchless public library. At the further endof the room, to the left, is a small door; which, upon opening, brings youinto the interior of a moderately sized, plain room, where the_Fifteeners_ are lodged. The very first view of these ancient tomescaused a certain palpitation of the heart. But neither this sort ofbook-jewel room, nor the large library just described--leading to it--arevisited without the special license of the Curators: a plan, which as itrespects the latter room, is, I submit, exceedingly absurd; for, what makesa noble book-room look more characteristic and inviting, than its being_well filled with students_? Besides, on the score of health andcomfort--at least in the summer months--such a plan is almost absolutelyrequisite. 

The MANUSCRIPTS are contained in a room, to the right, as you enter:connected with the small room where M. Bartsch, as commander-in-chief, regularly takes his station--from thence issuing such orders to hisofficers as best contribute to the well-being of the establishment. The MS. Room is sufficiently large and commodious, but without any architecturalpretensions. It may be about forty feet long. Here I was first shewn, amongthe principal curiosities, a _Senatus consultum de Bacchanalibuscoercendis_: a sort of police ordonnance, on a metal plate--supposed tohave been hung up in some of the public offices at Rome nearly 200 yearsbefore the birth of Christ. It is doubtless a great curiosity, andinvaluable as an historical document--as far as it goes. Here is a _map_, upon vellum, of the _Itinerary_ of _Theodosius the Great_, of the fourthcentury; very curious, as exhibiting a representation of the then knownworld, in which the most extraordinary ignorance of the relative positionof countries prevails. I understood that both _Pompeii_ and _Herculaneum_were marked on this map. One of the most singular curiosities, of theantiquarian kind, is a long leather roll of _Mexican hieroglyphics_, whichwas presented to the Emperor Charles V. , by Ferdinand Cortez. There arecopies of these hieroglyphics, taken from a copper plate; but the solutionof them, like most of those from Egypt, will always be perhaps a point ofdispute with the learned. 

But the objects more particularly congenial with _my_ pursuits, were, asyou will naturally guess, connected rather with _vellum MSS. _ of the_Scriptures_ and _Classics_: and especially did I make an instant andearnest enquiry about the famous fragment of the BOOK OF GENESIS, of thefourth century, of which I had before read so much in Lambecius, andconcerning which my imagination was, strangely enough, wrought up to a mostextraordinary pitch. "Place before me that fragment, good M. Kopitar, " saidI eagerly--"and you shall for ever have my best thanks. " "_That_, and everything else (replied he) is much at your service: fix only your hours ofattendance, and our treasures are ready for your free examination. " Thiswas as it should be. I enter therefore at once, my good friend, upon thetask of giving you a Catalogue Raisonné of those MSS. Which it was my goodfortune to examine in the nine or ten days conceded to me for that purpose;and during which I seemed to receive more than ordinary attention andkindness from the principal librarians. 

FRAGMENT OF THE BOOK OF GENESIS--undoubtedly of the end of the fourthcentury, at earliest. This fragment is a collection of twenty-four leaves, in a folio form, measuring twelve inches by ten, of a small portion of theBook of Genesis, written in large Greek capital letters of gold and silver, now much faded, upon a purple ground. Every page of these twenty-fourleaves is embellished with a painting, or illumination, coloured afternature, purposely executed _below_ the text, so that it is a running_graphic_ illustration--as we should say--of the subject above. 

There is too small a portion of the TEXT to be of much critical importance, but I believe this Greek text to be the _oldest extant_ of sacred writ: andtherefore I rejoiced on viewing this venerable and precious relic ofscriptural antiquity. Lambecius and Mabillon have given fac-similes of it;and I think Montfaucon also--in his _Palæographia Græca_. At the end ofthis fragment, are four pages of the _Gospel of St. Luke_--or, rather, figures of the four Evangelists; which are also engraved by Lambecius, and, from him, by Nesselius and Kollarius. [113]

SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA PAPÆ GREGORII, an oblong large octavo, or smallfolio form. I own I have doubts about calling this volume a contemporaneousproduction; that is to say, of the latter end of the sixth century. Theexterior, which, on the score of art, is more precious than the interior, is doubtless however of a very early period. It consists of an ivory figureof St. Jerome, guarded by a brass frame. The character of the interior, asto its scription, does not appear to be older than the tenth century. 

GERMAN BIBLE of the EMPEROR WENCESLAUS, in six folio volumes. This too wasanother of the particularly curious MSS. Which, since the account of it inmy Decameron, I had much desired to see. It is, upon the whole, an imperialproduction: but as extraordinary, and even whimsical, as it is magnificent. Of these six volumes, only three are illuminated; and of the third, onlytwo third parts are finished. The text is a large lower-case gothic letter, very nearly a quarter of an inch in height. The ornamental or borderilluminations have more grace and beauty than the subjects represented;although, to the eye of an antiquarian virtuoso, the representations of theunfortunate monarch will be the most interesting. 

I should notice by the way, on the competent authority of M. Kopitar, thatthis German version of the Bible is one of the most ancient extant. Thesebooks have suffered, in the binding, from the trenchant tools of theartist. The gold in the illuminations is rather bright than refulgent. 

I now proceed with an account of some other MSS. Appertaining to Scripture;and hasten to introduce to your notice a magnificent folio volume, entitledEVANGELISTARIUM, with a lion's head in the centre of the exterior binding, surrounded by golden rays, and having a lion's head in each corner of thesquare. The whole is within an arabesque border. There can be no doubt ofthe binding being of the time of Frederick III. Of the middle of thefourteenth century; and it is at once splendid and tasteful. The bookmeasures nearly fifteen inches by ten. The inside almost surpasses anything of the kind I have seen. The vellum is smooth, thin, and white--andthe colours are managed so as to have almost a faëry like effect. Each pageis surrounded with a light blue frame, having twisted flowers for cornerornaments: the whole of a quiet, soft tint, not unlike what appears in theBible of Wenceslaus. Every line is written in a tall, broad gothicletter--and every letter is _gold_. But the illuminations merit everycommendation. They are of various kinds. Some are divided into twelvecompartments: but the initial L, to the first page, _L_[_iberGenerationis_] is the most tasteful, as well as elaborate thing I eversaw. [114] The figures of angels, on the side, and at bottom, have even themerit of Greek art. A large illumination of our Saviour, with the Virginand Joseph below, closes the volume: which really can hardly besufficiently admired. The date of the text is 1368. 

I shall now give you an account of a few MISSALS of a higher order on thescore of art. And first, let me begin with a beautiful FLEMISH MISSAL, in8vo. : in the most perfect state of preservation--and with the costliestembellishments--as well as with a good number of drollerries _dotted_ aboutthe margins. The frame work, to the larger subjects, is composed of gothicarchitecture. I am not sure that I have seen any thing which equals the_drolleries_--for their variety, finish, and exquisite condition. Thevellum is not to be surpassed. What gives this book an additional value is, that it was once the property of Charles V. : for, on the reverse of fol. 157, at bottom, is the following memorandum in his hand writing: _Afin queIe Ioye de vous recommandé accepté bonne Dame cest mis sÿ en escript vostrevraÿ bon mestre. _ CHARLES. A lovely bird, in the margin, is the lastillumination. In the whole, there are 179 leaves. 

The next article is a LARGE MISSAL, in letters of gold and silver, uponblack paper: a very extraordinary book--and, to me, unique. The firstillumination shews the arms of Milan and Austria, quarterly, surrounded byan elaborate gold border. The text is in letters of silver--tall stoutgothic letters--with the initial letters of gold. Some of the subjects aresurrounded by gold borders, delightfully and gracefully disposed in circlesand flowers. At the bottom of the page, which faces the descent of the HolyGhost, is a fool upon horseback--very singular--and very spiritedlytouched. The binding is of red velvet, with a representation of the cloventongues at the day of Pentecost in silver-gilt. 

A third MISSAL, of the same beautiful character, is of an octavo form. Thetwo first illuminations are not to be exceeded, of their kind. The borders, throughout, are arabesque, relieved by _cameo gris_, --with heads, historical subjects, and every thing to enchant the eye and warm the heartof a tasteful antiquary. The writing is a black, large, gothic letter, notunlike the larger gothic font used by Ratdolt. The vellum is beautiful. Thebinding is in the Grolier style. 

The last and not the least, in the estimation of a competent judge ofMSS. , --is, a German version of the HORTULUS ANIMÆ of S. Brant. The volumein question is undoubtedly among the loveliest books in the ImperialLibrary. The character, or style of art, is not uncommon; but such a seriesof sweetly drawn, and highly finished subjects, is hardly any where to beseen--and certainly no where to be eclipsed. I should say the art wasrather Parisian than Flemish. The first in the series, is the following;executed for me by M. Fendi. It occurs where the illuminations usuallycommence, at the foot of the first page of the first Psalm. Observe, Ibeseech you, how tranquilly the boat glides along, and how comfortable theparty appears. It is a hot day, and they have cut down some branches fromthe trees to fasten in the sides of the boat--in order to screen them fromthe heat of the sun. The flagon of wine is half merged in the coolingstream--so that, when they drink, their thirst will be more effectuallyquenched. There are viands, in the basket, beside the rower; and themingled sounds of the flageolets and guitar seem to steal upon your ear asyou gaze at the happy party--and, perhaps, long to be one of them!

[Illustration]

A hundred similar sweet things catch the eye as one turns over the spotlessleaves of this snow-white book. But the very impressive scene of Christasleep, watched by angels--(with certain musical instruments in theirhands, of which M. Kopitar could not tell me the names, ) together withanother illumination of Mary, and Joseph in the distance, can hardly bedescribed with justice. The Apostles and Saints are large half lengths. St. Anthony, with the devil in the shape of a black pig beneath his garment, iscleverly managed; but the head is too large. Among the female figures, whatthink you of MARY MAGDALENE--as here represented? And where will you findfemale penance put to a severer trial? I apprehend the box, in front ofher, to be a _pix_, containing the consecrated elements. 

[Illustration]

I now proceed to give you some account of MSS. Of a different character:_classical_, _historical_, and appertaining to _Romance_--which seemed tome to have more particular claims upon the attention of the curious. Thefamous Greek DIOSCORIDES shall lead the way. This celebrated MS. Is alarge, thick, imperial quarto; measuring nearly fifteen inches by twelve. The vellum is thin, and of a silky and beautiful texture. The colours inthe earlier illuminations are thickly coated and glazed, but very muchrubbed; and the faces are sometimes hardly distinguishable. The supposedportrait of Dioscorides (engraved--as well as a dozen other of theseilluminations--in Lambecius, &c. ) is the most perfect. 

The plants are on one side of the leaf, the text is on the other. Theformer are, upon the whole, delicately and naturally coloured. At the end, there is an ornithological treatise, which is very curious for thecolouring of the birds. This latter treatise is written in a smaller Greekcapital letter than the first; but M. Kopitar supposes it to be as ancient. We know from an indisputably coeval date, that this precious MS. Wasexecuted by order of the Empress Juliana Anicia in the year of Christ 505. There is a smaller MS. Of Dioscorides, of a more recent date, in which theplants are coloured, and executed--one, two, or three, in number--upon therectos of the leaves, with the text below, in two columns. Both theilluminations and the text are of inferior execution to those of thepreceding MS. Montfaucon, who never saw the larger, makes much of thesmaller MS. ; which scarcely deserves comparison with it. 

PHILOSTRATUS; Lat. This is the MS. Which belonged to Matthias Corvinus--andof which the illuminations are so beautiful, that Nesselius has thought itworth while to give a fac-simile of the first--from whence I gave a portionto the public in the Bibliog. Decameron. [115] I think that I may safelyaffirm, that the two illuminations, which face each other at the beginning, are the finest, in every respect, which I have seen of that period; butthey have been sadly damaged. The two or three other illuminations, bydifferent hands, are much inferior. The vellum and writing are equallycharming. 

VALERIUS MAXIMUS. This copy has the name of _Sambucus_ at the bottom of thefirst illumination, and was doubtless formerly in the collection ofMatthias Corvinus--the principal remains of whose magnificent library(although fewer than I had anticipated) are preserved in this collection. The illumination in the MS. Just mentioned, is very elegant and pleasing;but the colours are rather too dark and heavy. The intended portrait of theRoman historian, with the arms and supporters below, are in excellent goodtaste. The initial letters and the vellum are quite delightful. Thescription is very good. 

LIVIUS: in six folio volumes. We have here a beautiful and magnificent MS. In a fine state of preservation. There is only one illumination in eachvolume; but that "one" is perhaps the most perfect specimen which can beseen of that open, undulating, arabesque kind of border, which is rathercommon in print as well as in MS. , towards the end of the fifteenthcentury. These six illuminations, for invention, delicacy, and brilliancyof finish, are infinitely beyond any thing of the kind which I have seen. The vellum is perfectly beautiful. To state which of these illuminations isthe most attractive, would be a difficult task; but if you were at myelbow, I should direct your particular attention to that at the beginningof the IXth book of the IVth Decad--especially to the opposite ornament;where two green fishes unite round a circle of gold, with the title, ingolden capitals, in the centre. O Matthias Corvinus, thou wert surely theEMPEROR of Book Collectors!

BOOK OF BLAZONRY, or of ARMS. This is an enormous folio MS. Full ofheraldic embellishments relating to the HOUSE of Austria. Among theseembellishments, the author of the text--who lived in the XVIth century, andwho was a very careful compiler--has preserved a genuine, original portraitof LEOPOLD de SEMPACH, of the date of 1386. It is very rarely that youobserve portraits of this character, or form, introduced into MSS. Of soearly a period. A nobler heraldic volume probably does not exist. It isbound in wood, covered with red velvet; and the edges are gilt, overcoloured armorial ornaments. 

From _such_ a volume, the step is both natural and easy to ROMANCES. SirTRISTAN shall lead the way. Here are _three_ MSS. Of the feats of thatKnight of the Round Table. The first is of the XIIIth century; written inthree columns, on a small thick gothic letter. It has some small, andperfect illuminations. This MS. Became the property of Prince Eugene. Itwas taken to Paris, but restored: and has yet the French imperial eaglestamped in red ink. It is indeed a "gloriously ponderous folio. "

A second MS. Of the SAME ROMANCE is written in two columns, in a full shortgothic letter. It is very large, and the vellum is very perfect. Theilluminations, which are larger than those in the preceding MS. Areevidently of the early part of the xvth century. This book also belonged toPrince Eugene. It is doubtless a precious volume. A third MS. Executed inpale ink, in a kind of secretary gothic letter, is probably of the latterend of the XIVth century. The illuminations are only slightly tinted. 

BRUT D'ANGLETTERRE. I should apprehend this MS. To be of the early part ofthe XIVth century. It is executed in a secretary gothic letter, in doublecolumns, and the ink is much faded in colour. It has but one illumination, which is at the beginning, and much faded. This was also Prince Eugene'scopy; and was taken to Paris, but restored. 

The last, but perhaps the most valuable in general estimation, of the MSS. Examined by me, was the AUTOGRAPH of the GERUSALEMME LIBERATA, or, asformerly called, CONQUISTATA, [116] of Tasso: upon which no accomplishedItalian can look but with feelings almost approaching to rapture. The MS. Is imperfect; beginning with the xxxth canto of the second book, and endingwith the LXth canto of the twenty-third book. 

The preceding will probably give you some little satisfaction respectingthe MSS. In this very precious collection. I proceed therefore immediatelyto an account of the PRINTED BOOKS; premising that, after the accounts ofnearly similar volumes, described as being in the libraries previouslyvisited, you must not expect me to expatiate quite so copiously as uponformer occasions. I have divided the whole into four classes; namely, 1. THEOLOGY; 2. CLASSICS; 3. MISCELLANEOUS, LATIN; (including Lexicography) 4. ITALIAN; and 5. FRENCH and GERMAN, exclusively of Theology. I have alsotaken the pains of arranging each class in alphabetical order; so that youwill consider what follows to be a very sober, and a sort ofbibliopolistic, catalogue. 

THEOLOGY. 

AUGUSTINUS (Sts. ) DE CIV. DEI. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery, 1467_. Folio. A fine large copy; but not equal to that in the Royal Library atParis or in Lord Spencer's collection. I should think, however, that thismay rank as the third copy for size and condition. 

---- _Printed by Jenson. _

1475. Folio. A very beautiful book, printed upon white and delicate VELLUM. Many of the leaves have, however, a bad colour. I suspect this copy hasbeen a good deal cropt in the binding. 

AUGUSTINI S. EPISTOLÆ. LIBRI XIII. CONFESSIONUM. 1475. Quarto. This volumeis printed in long lines, in a very slender roman type, which I do not justnow happen to remember to have seen before; and which _almost_ resemblesthe delicacy of the types of the first _Horace_, and the _Florus_ and_Lucan_--so often noticed: except that the letters are a little too roundin form. The present is a clean, sound copy; unbound. 

BIBLIA LATINA. This is the _Mazarine_ Edition; supposed to be the firstBible ever printed. The present is far from being a fine copy; butvaluable, from possessing the four leaves of a Rubric which I was taught tobelieve were peculiar to the copy at Munich. [117]

BIBLIA LATINA; _Printed by Pfister_, folio, 3 volumes. I was told that thecopy here was upon vellum; but inaccurately. The present was supplied bythe late Mr. Edwards; but is not free from stain and writing. Yet, althoughnothing comparable with the copy in the Royal Library at Paris, or withthat in St. James's Place, it is nevertheless a very desirableacquisition--and is quite perfect. 

---- _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher. _ 1462. 

Folio. 2 vols. UPON VELLUM. This was Colbert's copy, and is large, sound, and desirable. 

---- _Printed by Mentelin. _ Without Date. Perhaps the rarest of all LatinBibles; of which, however, there is a copy in the royal library at Paris, and in the public libraries of Strasbourg and Munich. I should conjectureits date to be somewhere about 1466. [118] The present is a clean and sound, but much cropt copy. 

---- _Printed by Sweynhyem and Pannartz. _ Folio. 1471-2, 2 vols. Aremarkably fine large copy, almost uncut: in modern russia binding. Thismust form a portion of the impression by the same printers, with theCommentary of De Lyra, in five folio volumes. 

BIBLIA LATINA; _Printed by Hailbrun_. 1476. Folio. Here are _two_ copies;of which one is UPON VELLUM, and the other upon paper: both beautiful--butthe vellum copy is, I think, in every respect, as lovely a book as LordSpencer's similar copy. It measures eleven inches one sixteenth by sevenone eighth. It has, however, been bound in wretched taste, some fifty yearsago, and is a good deal cropt in the binding. The paper copy, in 2 vols. Isconsiderably larger. 

BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by Jenson_. 1479. Folio. Here, again, are twocopies; one upon paper, the other UPON VELLUM. Of these, the vellum copy ismuch damaged in the principal illumination, and is also cropt in thebinding. The paper copy can hardly be surpassed, if equalled. 

BIBLIA ITALICA. MALHERBI. _Printed in the month of October, _ 1471. Folio. 2vols. Perhaps one of the finest and largest copies in existence; measuring, sixteen inches five eighths by eleven. It is bound (if I remember rightly)in blue morocco. 

BIBLIA HEBRAICA. _Printed at Soncino_. 1488. Folio. FIRST EDITION OF THEHEBREW BIBLE. Of all earliest impressions of the sacred text, this isdoubtless the MOST RARE. I am not sure that there are _two_ copies of it inEngland or in France. In our own country, the Bodleian library alonepossesses it. This is a beautiful, clean copy, but cropt a little too muchin the binding. It has had a journey to _Paris_, and gained a coat of bluemorocco by the trip. The binder was Bozerain. This was the first time thatI had seen a copy of the FIRST HEBREW BIBLE. There was only one _other_feeling to be gratified:--that _such_ a copy were safely lodged in St. James's Place. 

BIBLIA POLONICA. 1563. Folio. The Abbé Strattman, at Mölk, had apprised meof the beauty and value of this copy--of one of the scarcest impressions ofthe sacred text. This copy was, in fact, a PRESENTATION COPY to the EmperorMaximilian II. , from Prince Radzivil the Editor and Patron of the work. Itis rather beautifully white, for the book--which is usually of a verysombre complexion. The leaves are rather tender. It is bound in red velvet;but it is a pity they do not keep it in a case--as the back is wearing awayfast. Notwithstanding the Abbé Strattman concluded his account of this bookwith the exclamation of--"Il n'y en a pas comme celui-là, " I must beallowed to say, that Lord Spencer may yet indulge in a strain of triumph... On the possession of the copy, of this same work, which I secured for himat Augsbourg;[119] and which is, to the full, as large, as sound, and inevery respect as genuine a book. 

JERONIMI STI. EPISTOLÆ. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz. _ 1468. Folio. 2vols. A magnificent and unique copy, UPON VELLUM. "There are ONLY SIXVELLUM Sweynheyms and Pannartz in the world, "--said the Abbé Strattman tome, in the library of the Monastery of Mölk. "Which be they?" replied I. "They are these"--answered he ... "the _Cæsar_, _Aulus Gellius_, and_Apuleius_--ach the edit. Prin. --of the date of 1469: and the _Epistles ofSt Jerom_, of 1468--all which four books you will see at Vienna:--the_Livy_, which Mr. Edwards bought; and the _Pliny_ of 1470, which is in thelibrary of Lord Spencer. These are the only known vellum Sweynheyms andPannartz. " I looked at the volumes under consideration, therefore, with thegreater attention. They are doubtless noble productions; and this copy is, upon the whole, fine and genuine. It is not, however, so richly ornamented, nor is the vellum quite so white, as Lord Spencer's Pliny above mentioned. Yet it is bound in quiet old brown calf, having formerly belonged toCardinal Bessarion, whose hand writing is on the fly leaf. It measuresfifteen inches three eighths, by eleven one sixteenth. 

LACTANTII OPERA. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery. _ 1465. Folio. Here aretwo copies of this earliest production of the Italian press. That which isin blue morocco binding, is infinitely the worse of the two. The other, inthe original binding of wood, is, with the exception of Mr. Grenville'scopy, the finest which I have ever seen. This however is slightly stained, by water, at top. 

---- _Printed at Rostock. _ 1476. Folio. A copy UPON VELLUM--which I hadnever seen before. The vellum is thin and beautiful, but this is not a_comfortable_ book in respect to binding. A few leaves at the beginning arestained. Upon the whole, however, it is a singularly rare and mostdesirable volume. [120]

MISSALE MOZARABICUM. 1500. Folio. First Edition. A book of exceedinglygreat scarcity, and of which I have before endeavoured to give a prettyfull and correct history. [121] The present is a beautiful clean copy, boundin blue morocco, apparently by De Seuil--from the red morocco liningwithin: but this copy is not so large as the one in St. James's Place. TheMOZARABIC BREVIARY, its companion, which is bound in red morocco, has beencruelly cropt. 

MISSALE HERBIPOLENSE. Folio: with the date of 1479 in the prefatoryadmonition. This precious book is UPON VELLUM; and a more beautiful anddesirable volume can hardly be found. There is a copper-plate ofcoat-armour, in outline, beneath the prefatory admonition; and M. Bartsch, who was by the side of me when I was examining the book, referred me to his_Peintre Graveur_, vol. X. P. 57. Where this early copper-plate is noticed. 

PSALTERIUM. Latinè. _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher. _ 1457. Folio. EDITIOPRINCEPS. If there be ONE book, more than another, which should induce anardent bibliographer to make a pilgrimage to Vienna, THIS is assuredly thevolume in question! And yet, although I could not refrain from doing, whata score of admiring votaries had probably done before me--namely, bestowinga sort of _oscular_ benediction upon the first leaf of the text--yet, Isay, it may be questionable whether this copy be as large and fair as thatin our Royal Collection!? Doubtless, however, this is a very fine andalmost invaluable copy of the FIRST BOOK printed with metal types, with adate subjoined. You will give me credit for having asked for a sight of it, the _very first thing_ on my entrance into the room where it is kept. Itis, however, preserved in rather a loose and shabby binding, and shouldcertainly be protected by every effort of the bibliopegistic art. The truthis, as M. Kopitar told me, that every body--old and young, ignorant andlearned--asks for a sight of this marvellous volume; and it is, inconsequence, rarely kept in a state of quiescence one week throughout theyear: excepting during the holidays. 

PSALTERIUM. Latinè. _Without Printer's name or Date. _ _Folio. _ This isdoubtless a magnificent book, printed in the gothic letter, in red andblack, with musical lines not filled up by notes. The text has services forcertain Saints days. What rendered this volume particularly interesting tomy eyes, was, that on the reverse of the first leaf, beneath two lines ofprinted text, (in the smaller of two sizes of gothic letter) and two linesof scored music in red, I observed an impression of the very samecopper-plate of coat-armour, which I had noticed in the Wurtzburg Missal of1482, at Oxford, described in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. I. P. 30. Although M. Bartsch had noticed this copper-plate, in its outlinecharacter, in the above previously described Wurtzburg Missal, he seemed tobe ignorant of its existence in this Psalter. The whole of this book is asfresh as if it had just come from the press. 

TESTAMENTUM NOV. Bohemicè. _Without Date. _ Folio. This is probably one ofthe very rarest impressions of the sacred text, in the XVth century, whichis known to exist. It is printed in the gothic type, in double columns, anda full page contains thirty-six lines. There are running titles. The text, at first glance, has much of the appearance of Bämler's printing atAugsbourg; but it is smaller, and more angular. Why should not the bookhave been printed in Bohemia? This is a very clean, desirable copy, in redmorocco binding. 

TURRECREMATA I. DE. In LIBRUM PSALMORUM. _Printed at Crause in Suabia. _Folio. This, and the copy described as being in the Public Library atMunich, are supposed to be the only known copies of this impression. Belowthe colophon, in pencil, there is a date of 1475: but quære upon whatauthority? This copy is in most miserable condition; especially at the end. 

ANCIENT CLASSICAL AUTHORS. 

ÆSOPUS. Gr. Quarto. EDITIO PRINCEPS. A sound and perfect copy: ruled. 

---- _Ital. _ 1491. Quarto. In Italian poetry, by Manfred de Monteferrato. 

---- 1492. Quarto. In Italian prose, by the same. Of these two versions, the Italian appears to be the same as that of the Verona impression of1479: the cuts are precisely similar. The present is a very sound copy, butevidently cropt. 

APULEIUS. 1469. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz. _ Folio. EditioPrinceps. This copy is UPON VELLUM. It is tall and large, but not so fineas is the following article:

---- _Printed by Jenson. _ 1472. Folio. A fine sound copy; in red moroccobinding. Formerly belonging to Prince Eugene. 

AULUS GELLIUS. 1469. Folio. Edit. Prin. This is without doubt one of thevery finest VELLUM copies of an old and valuable Classic in existence. There are sometimes (as is always the case in the books from the earlierRoman press) brown and yellow pages; but, upon the whole, this is awonderful and inestimable book. It is certainly unique, as being printedupon vellum. Note well: the _Jerom, Apuleius_, and _Aulus Gellius_--withone or two others, presently to be described--were Cardinal Bessarion's OWNCOPIES; and were taken from the library of St. Mark at Venice, by theAustrians, in their memorable campaign in Italy. I own that there arehardly any volumes in the Imperial Library at Vienna which interested me somuch as these VELLUM SWEYNHEYMS and PANNARTZ!

AUSONIUS. 1472. Folio. Editio Princeps. The extreme rarity of this book iswell known. The present copy is severely cropt at top and bottom, but has agood side marginal breadth. It has also been washed; but you are onlyconscious of it by the scent of soap. 

CÆSAR. 1469. _Printed by S. And Pannartz. _ Folio. Edit. Princeps. Abeautiful and unique copy--UPON VELLUM. This was formerly Prince Eugene'scopy; and I suspect it to be the same which is described in the _Bibl. Hulziana_, vol. I. No. 3072--as it should seem to be quite settled that theprinters, Sweynheym and Pannartz, printed only _one_ copy of theirrespective first editions upon vellum. It is however but too manifest thatthis precious volume has been cropt in binding--which is in red morocco. 

---- 1472. _Printed by the same. _ Folio. This also was Prince Eugene'scopy; and is much larger and finer than the preceding--on the score ofcondition. 

CICERO DE OFFICIIS. 1465, Quarto. Here are _two_ copies: each UPON VELLUM. One, in blue morocco, is short and small; but in very pretty condition. Theother is stained and written upon. It should be cast out. 

---- 1466. Quarto. UPON VELLUM. A beautiful copy, which measures verynearly ten inches in height. [122] In all these copies, the title of the"Paradoxes" is printed. 

CICERONIS. EPIST. FAM. 1467. Folio. Editio Princeps. Cardinal Bessarion'sown copy, and unquestionably THE FINEST THAT EXISTS. The leaves are whiteand thick, and crackle aloud as you turn them over. It is upon paper, whichmakes me think that there never was a copy upon vellum; for the Cardinal, who was a great patron of Sweynheym and Pannartz, the printers, woulddoubtless have possessed it in that condition. At the beginning, however, it is slightly stained, and at the end slightly wormed. Yet is this copy, in its primitive binding, finer than any which can well be imagined. Thecurious are aware that this is supposed to have been the _first bookprinted at Rome_; and that the blanks, left for the introduction of Greekcharacters, prove that the printers were not in possession of the latterwhen this book was published. The Cardinal has written two lines, partly inGreek and partly in Latin, on the fly leaf. This copy measures eleveninches three eighths by seven inches seven eighths. 

CICERO. RHETORICA VETUS. Printed by Jenson. When I had anticipated thebeauty of a VELLUM COPY of this book (in the _Bibl. Spencer. _ vol. I. P. 349--here close at hand) I had not of course formed the idea of seeing sucha one HERE. This vellum copy is doubtless a lovely book; but the vellum isdiscoloured in many places, and I suspect the copy has been cut down alittle. 

---- ORATIONES. _Printed by S. And Pannartz. _ 1471. Folio. A beautifullywhite and genuine copy; but the first few leaves are rather soiled, and itis slightly wormed towards the end. A _fairer_ Sweynheym and Pannartz israrely seen. 

---- OPERA OMNIA. 1498. Folio. 4 vols. A truly beautiful copy, bound inred morocco; but it is not free from occasional ms. Annotations, in redink, in the margins. It measures sixteen inches and three quarters inheight, by ten inches and three quarters in width. A fine and perfect copyof this _First Edition of the Entire Works_ of Cicero, is obtained withgreat difficulty. A nobler monument of typographical splendour the earlyannals of the press cannot boast of. 

HOMERI OPERA OMNIA. Gr. 1488. Folio. Editio Princeps. A sound, clean copy, formerly Prince Eugene's; but not comparable with many copies which I haveseen. 

BATRACHOMYOMACHIA. Gr. Without date or place. Quarto. Edit. Prin: executedin red and black lines, alternately. This is a sound, clean, and beautifulcopy; perhaps a little cropt. In modern russia binding. 

JUVENALIS. Folio. _Printed by Ulric Han_, in his larger type. A cruellycropt copy, with a suspiciously ornamented title page. This once belongedto Count Delci. 

JUVENALIS. _Printed by I. De Fivizano _. _Without date_. Folio. This is avery rare edition, and has been but recently acquired. It containstwenty-seven lines in a full page. There are neither numerals, signatures, nor catchwords. On the sixty-ninth and last leaf, is the colophon. A soundand desirable copy; though not free from soil. 

LUCIANI OPUSCULA QUÆDAM. Lat. _Printed by S. Bevilaquensis. _ 1494. Quarto. This is really one of the most covetable little volumes in the world. It isa copy printed UPON VELLUM; with most beautiful illuminations, in thepurest Italian taste. Look--if ever you visit the Imperial Library--at thelast illumination, at the bottom of _o v_, recto. It is indescribablyelegant. But the binder should have been hung in chains. He has cut thebook to the very quick--so as almost to have entirely sliced away severalof the border decorations. 

OVIDII FASTI. _Printed by Azoguidi. _ 1471. Folio. This is the whole of whatthey possess of this wonderfully rare EDIT. PRIN. Of Ovid, printed atBologna by the above printer:--and of this small portion the first leaf iswanting. 

----, OPERA OMNIA, _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1471. Folio. 2vols. This is a clean, large copy; supplied from two old libraries. Thevolumes are equally large, but the first is in the finer condition. 

----, EPISTOLÆ et FASTI. I know nothing of the printer of this edition, nor can I safely guess where it was printed. The Epistles begin on therecto of _aa ii_ to _gg v_; the Fasti on A i to VV ix, including some fewother opuscula; of which my memorandum is misplaced. At the end, we readthe word FINIS. 

PLINIUS SENIOR. _Printed by I. De Spira_. 1469. Folio. Editio Princeps. Wehave here the identical copy--printed UPON VELLUM--of which I remember tohave heard it said, that the Abbé Strattman, when he was at the head ofthis library, declared, that whenever the French should approach Vienna, hewould march off with _this_ book under _one_ arm, and with the FIRSTPsalter under the other! This was heroically said; but whether suchdeclaration was ever _acted_ upon, is a point upon which thebibliographical annals of that period are profoundly silent. To revert tothis membranaceous treasure. It is in one volume, beautifully white andclean; but ("horresco referens;") it has been cruelly deprived of itslegitimate dimensions. In other words, it is a palpably cropt copy. Thevery first glance of the illumination at the first page confirms this. Inother respects, also, it can bear no comparison with the VELLUM copy in theRoyal Library at Paris. [123] Yet is it a book ... For which I know morethan _one_ Roxburgher who would promptly put pen to paper and draw a checkfor 300 guineas--to become its possessor. 

PLINIUS SENIOR. _Printed by Jenson. _ 1472. Folio. Another early Pliny--UPONVELLUM: very fine, undoubtedly; but somewhat cropt, as the encroachmentupon the arms, at the bottom of the first illuminated page, evidentlyproves. The initial letters are coloured in that sober style of decoration, which we frequently observe in the illuminated volumes of Sweynheym andPannartz; but they generally appear to have received some injury. Upon thewhole, I doubt if this copy be so fine as the similar copies, upon vellum, in the libraries of the Duke of Devonshire and the late Sir M. M. Sykes. This book is bound in the highly ornamented style of French binding of theXVIIth century; and it measures almost sixteen inches one eighth, by teninches five eighths. 

PLINIUS. Italicè. _Printed by Jenson. _ 1476. Folio. A fine, large, pure, crackling copy; in yellow morocco binding. It was Prince Eugene's copy; butis yet inferior, in magnitude, to the copy at Paris. [124]

SILIUS ITALICUS. _Printed by Laver. _ 1471. Folio. The largest, soundest, and cleanest copy of this very rare impression, which I remember to haveseen:--with the exception, perhaps, of that in the Bodleian Library. 

SUETONIUS. _Printed by S. And Pannartz. _ 1470. Folio. Second Edition. Afine, sound copy, yet somewhat cropt. The first page of the text has theusual border printed ornament of the time of printing the book. This wasPrince Eugene's copy. 

SUIDAS, Gr. 1499. Folio. 2 vols. This editio princeps of Suidas is always, when in tolerable condition, a wonderfully striking book: a masterpiece ofsolid, laborious, and beautiful Greek printing. But the copy underconsideration--which is in its pristine boards, covered with blackleather--was LAMBECIUS'S OWN COPY, and has his autograph. It is, moreover, one of the largest, fairest, and most genuine copies ever opened. 

TACITUS. _Printed by I. De Spira. _ Folio. Edit. Prin. This is the whitestand soundest copy, of this not very uncommon book, which I have seen. Ithas however lost something of its proper dimensions by the cropping of thebinder. 

TERENTIUS. _Printed by Mentelin, without date. _ Folio. Editio Princeps. Ofexceedingly great rarity. The present copy, which is in boards--but whichrichly deserves a russia or morocco binding--is a very good, sound, anddesirable copy. 

VALERIUS MAXIMUS. _Printed by Schoeffher. _ 1472. Fol. UPON VELLUM; acharming, sound copy. This book is not very uncommon upon vellum. 

VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Mentelin. _ _Without date. _ Folio. Perhaps the rarestof all the early Mentelin classics; and probably the second edition of theauthor. The present is a beautiful, white, sound copy, and yet probablysomewhat cropt. It is in red morocco binding. Next to the veryextraordinary copy of this edition, in the possession of Mr. GeorgeHibbert, I should say that _this_ was the finest I had ever seen. 

---- _Printed by V. De Spira. _ 1470. Folio. It is difficult to find athoroughly beautiful copy of this very rare book. The present is tolerablyfair and rather large, but I suspect washed. The beginning is brown, andthe end very brown. 

---- _Printed by the Same. _ 1471. Folio. This copy is perhaps the mostbeautiful in the world of the edition in question. It has the old ms. Signatures in the corner, which proves how important the preservation ofthese _witnesses_ is to the confirmation of the size and genuineness of acopy of an old book. No wonder the French got possession of this matchlessvolume on their memorable visit to Vienna in 1805 or 1809. It was bound inFrance, in red morocco, and is honestly bound. This is, in short, a perfectbook. 

---- _Printed by Jenson. _ 1475. Folio. A very fine, crackling copy, in theold wooden binding; but the beginning and end are somewhat stained. 

MISCELLANEOUS LATIN. [125]

ÆNEAS SYLVIUS DE DUOBUS AMANTIBUS. Without date. Quarto. This is the onlycopy which I have seen, of probably what may be considered the FIRSTEDITION of this interesting work. It has twenty-three lines in a full page, and is printed in the large and early roman type of _Gering_, _Crantz_, and_Friburger_. Cæsar and Stoll doubtless reprinted this edition. In thewhole, there are forty-four leaves. The present is a fair sound copy. 

ALEXANDER GALLUS: vulgò DE VILLA DEI: DOCTRINALE. _Without date. _ Folio. There are few books which I had so much wished to see as the present. Thebibliographers of the old school had a great notion of the typographicalantiquity of this _work_ if not of _this edition_ of it: but I have verylittle hesitation, in the first place, of attributing it to the press of_Vindelin de Spira_--and, in the second place, of assigning no higherantiquity to it than that of the year 1471. It is however a book of someintrinsic curiosity, and of unquestionably great rarity. I saw it here forthe first time. The present copy is a decidedly much-cropt folio; but inmost excellent condition. 

AQUINAS THOMAS. SECUNDA SECONDÆ. _Printed by Schoeffher. _ 1467. Folio. Afine, large copy, printed UPON VELLUM: the vellum is rather too yellow; butthis is a magnificent book, and exceedingly rare in such a state. It isbound in red morocco. 

---- OPUS QUARTISCRIPTUM. _Printed by Schoeffher. _ 1469. Folio. We havehere another magnificent specimen of the early Mentz press, struck off UPONVELLUM, and executed in the smallest gothic type of the printer. This is agloriously genuine copy; having the old pieces of vellum pasted to theedges of the leaves, by way of facilitating the references to the body ofthe text. There is a duplicate copy of this edition, upon paper, wantingsome of the earlier leaves, and which had formerly belonged to PrinceEugene. It is, in other respects, fair and desirable. 

---- IN EVANG. MATTH. ET MARC. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz. _ 1470. Folio. A fine, large, white, and crackling copy; but somewhat cut; and notquite free from the usual foxy tint of the books executed by these earliestRoman printers. 

BARTHOLUS. LECTURA. _Printed by V. De Spira. _. 1471, Folio. One of thefinest specimens imaginable of the press of V. De Spira. It is a thickfolio, executed in double columns. The first page of this copy is elegantlyilluminated with portraits, &c. ; but the arms at bottom prove that someportion of the margin has been cut away--even of this magnificent copy. Atthe end--just before the date, and the four colophonic verses of theprinter--we read: "_Finis primi ptis lecture dni Bartoli super ffto nouo_. "

BELLOVACENSIS (P. ) SPECULUM HISTORIALE, Folio. The four volumes in ONE!--ofeight inches in thickness, including the binding. The present copy of thisextraordinary performance of Peter de Beauvais is as pure and white aspossible. The type is a doubtful gothic letter: doubtful, as to theassigning to it its proper printer. 

CATHOLICON. 1460. Folio. 2 vols. A tolerably fair good copy; in red moroccobinding. 

---- 1469. _Printed by Gunther Zeiner. _ 2 vols. Folio. This copy is UPONVELLUM, of a fair and sound quality. I suspect that it has been somewhatdiminished in size, and may not be larger than the similar copy at GöttwicMonastery. In calf binding. 

DURANDUS. RAT. DIV. OFFIC. _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher. _ 1459. Folio. This book, which is always UPON VELLUM, was the Duke de La Valliere's copy. It is the thinnest I ever saw, but it is quite perfect. The condition isthroughout sound, and the margins appear to retain all their pristineamplitude. It is bound in morocco. 

FICHETI RHETORICA. _Printed by Gering_, &c. Quarto. This copy is UPONVELLUM, not indifferently illuminated: but it has been cruelly cropt. 

LUDOLPHUS. DE TERRA SANCTA and ITINERE IHEROSO-LOMITANO. _Without date orplace. _ Folio. I never saw this book, nor this work, before. The textdescribes a journey to Jerusalem, undertaken by Ludolphus, between theyears 1336 and 1350. This preface is very interesting; but I have neithertime nor space for extracts. At the end: "_Finit feliciter libellus deitinere ad terram sanctam, &_. " This impression is printed in long lines, and contains thirty-six leaves. [126]

MAMMOTRECTUS. _Printed by Schoeffher. _ 1470. Folio. Here are two copies; ofwhich one is UPON VELLUM--but the paper copy is not only a larger, but inevery respect a fairer and more desirable, book. The vellum copy has quitea foggy aspect. 

NONIUS MARCELLUS. _Without name of printer or place. _ 1471. Folio. This isthe first edition of the work with a date, but the printer is unknown. Itis executed in a superior style of typographical elegance; and the presentis as fine and white a copy of it as can possibly be possessed. I think iteven larger than the Göttwic copy. 

PETRARCHA. HISTORIA GRISELDIS. _Printed by G. Zeiner. _ 1473. Folio. Whether_this_ edition of the HISTORY OF PATIENT GRISEL, or that printed by Zel, without date, be the earliest, I cannot pretend to say. This edition isprinted in the roman type, and perhaps is among the very earliest specimensof the printer so executed. It is however a thin, round, and scraggy type. The book is doubtless of extreme rarity. This copy was formerly PrinceEugene's, and is bound in red morocco. 

PHALARIDIS EPISTOLÆ. Lat. 1471. Quarto. This is the first time (if Iremember rightly) that the present edition has come under my notice. It isdoubtless of excessive rarity. The type is a remarkably delicate, round, widely spread and roman letter. At the end is the colophon, in capitalletters. 

PHALARIDIS EPISTOLÆ. _Printed by Ulric Han. _ _Without date. _ Folio. This isamong the rarest editions of the Latin version of the Epistles of Phalaris. It is executed in the second, or ordinary roman type of Ulric Han. In thewhole there are thirty leaves; and I know not why this impression may notbe considered as the first, or at least the second, of the version inquestion. 

POGGII FACETIÆ. _Without name of Printer, Place, or Date. _ Folio. It is forthe first time that I examine the present edition, which I should nothesitate to pronounce the FIRST of the work in question. The types arethose which were used in the _Eusebian Monastery_ at Rome. A full page hastwenty-three lines. This is a sound, clean copy; in calf binding. 

PRISCIANUS. _Printed by V. De Spira. _ 1470. Folio. Editio princeps. Abeautiful, large, white, and crackling copy, in the original woodenbinding. Is one word further necessary to say that a finer copy, uponpaper, cannot exist?

PRISCIANUS. _Printed by Ulric Han. _ Folio. With the metrical version of_Dionysius de Situ Orbis_ at the end. This is a very rare book. The fountof Greek letters clearly denotes it to come from a press at Rome, and thatpress was assuredly Ulric Han's. This appears to have been Gaignat's copy, and is sound and desirable, but not so fine as the copy of this edition inthe library of Göttwic Monastery. 

PTOLEMÆUS. Lat. _Printed at Bologna. _ 1462. Folio. There can be no doubt ofthis date being falsely put for 1472 or even 1482. But this is a rare bookto possess, with all the copper plates, which this copy has--and it ismoreover a fine copy. 

PTOLEMÆUS. _Printed by Buckinck. _ 1478. Folio. Another fine and perfectcopy of a volume of considerable rarity, and interest to the curious in thehistory of early engraving. 

TURRECREMATA I. De. MEDITATIONES. _Printed by Ulric Han. _ 1467. Folio. Thiswonderfully rare volume is justly shewn among the "great guns" of theImperial Library. It was deposited here by the late Mr. Edwards; and isconsidered by some to be the _first book printed at Rome_, and is filledwith strange wood-cuts. [127] The text is uniformly in the large gothiccharacter of Ulric Han. The French were too sensible of the rarity andvalue of this precious book, to suffer it to remain upon the shelves of theImperial library after their first triumphant visit to Vienna; andaccordingly it was carried off, among other book trophies, to Paris--fromwhence it seems, naturally as it were, to have taken up its presentposition. This is a very fine copy; bound in blue morocco, with the cutsuncoloured. It measures thirteen inches and a quarter, by very nearly nineand a quarter: being, what may be fairly called, almost its pristinedimensions. Whenever you visit this library, ask to see, among the veryfirst books deserving of minute inspection, this copy of the Meditations ofJohn de Turrecremata: but, remember--_a yet finer_ copy is within threestones-throw of Buckingham Palace!

VALTURIUS DE RE MILITARI. 1472. Folio. Edit. Prin. A fine, clean copy; inred morocco binding. Formerly, in the collection of Prince Eugene. Such ahero, however, should have possessed it UPON VELLUM!--although, of the twocopies of this kind which I have seen, neither gave me the notion of a veryfine book. 

BOOKS IN THE ITALIAN LANGUAGE. 

_Bella (La) Mono. _ _Without name of Printer. _ 1474. Quarto. This is thefirst time of my inspecting the present volume; of which the printer is notknown--but, in all probability, the book was printed _at Venice_. It isexecuted in a round, tall, roman letter. This is a cropt and soiled, butupon the whole, a desirable copy: it is bound in red morocco, and wasformerly Prince Eugene's. 

_Berlinghieri. _ _Geografia. _ _Without Place or Date. _ Folio. PrimaEdizione. It does the heart good to gaze upon such a copy of so estimableand magnificent a production as the present. This book belonged to PrinceEugene, and is bound in red morocco. It is quite perfect--with all thecopper-plate maps. 

_Boccaccio. _ _Il Decamerone. _ _Printed by Zarotus. _ 1476. Folio. This is anexceedingly rare edition of the Decameron. It is executed in the small andelegantly formed gothic type of the printer, with which the Latin Æsop, ofthe same date, in 4to, was printed. Notwithstanding this copy is of a verybrown hue, and most cruelly cut down--as the illuminated first page but toodecisively proves--it is yet a sound and desirable book. 

This is the only early edition, as far as I had an opportutunity ofascertaining, which they appear to possess of the Decameron of Boccaccio. Of the _Philocolo_, there is a folio edition of 1488; and of the _Nimphale_there is a sound and clean copy of a dateless edition, in 4to. , withoutname of place or printer, which ends thus--and which possibly may be amongthe very earliest impressions of that work:

 Finito il nimphale di fiesole che tracto damore. 

_Caterina da Bologna. _ _Without Date or name of Printer. _ Quarto. This is avery small quarto volume of great rarity; concluding with some poetry, andsome particulars of the Life of the female Saint and author. It appears tohave wholly escaped Brunet. 

 Incomezao alcune cose d'la uita d'la sopra nominata beata Caterina. 

There are neither manuals, signatures, nor catchwords. This volume lookslike a production of the _Bologna_ or _Mantua_ press. I never saw anothercopy of this curious little work. 

_Caterina da Siena Legendi di. _ _Printed in the Monastery of St. James, atFlorence. _ 1477. Quarto. This is the edition which Brunet very properlypronounces to be "excessively rare. " It is printed in double columns, in asmall, close, and scratchy gothic type. On the 158th and last leaf, is thecolophon. 

_Dante. _ _Printed by Neumister. _ 1472. Folio. PRIMA EDIZIONE. This copy isruled, but short, and in a somewhat tender condition. Although not a firstrate copy, it is nevertheless desirable; yet is this book but a secondarytypographical performance. The paper is always coarse in texture, andsombre in tint. 

_Dante_. 1481. Folio. With the commentary of Landino. This is doubtless aprecious copy, inasmuch as it contains TWENTY COPPER-PLATE IMPRESSIONS, andis withal in fair and sound condition. The fore-edge margin has beenhowever somewhat deprived of its original dimensions. 

_Decor Puellarum. Printed by Jenson_. Quarto. With the false date of 1461for 1471. This volume, which once gave rise to such elaboratebibliographical disquisition, now ceases to have any extraordinary claimsupon the attention of the collector. It is nevertheless a _sine qua non_ ina library with any pretension to early typographical curiosities. Thepresent copy is clean and tolerably large: bound by De Rome. 

_Fazio. Dita Mundi. Printed by L. Basiliensis_. 1474. Folio. PrimaEdizione. Of unquestionably great rarity; and unknown to the earlierbibliographers. It is printed in double columns, with signatures, to _o_ ineighths: _o_ has only four leaves. This copy has the signaturesconsiderably below the text, and they seem to have been a clumsy and_posterior_ piece of workmanship. It has been recently bound in russia. 

_Frezzi. Il Quadriregio_. 1481. Folio. Prima Edizione. I have beforesufficiently expatiated upon the rarity of this impression. The present isa large copy, but too much beaten in the binding. The first leaf is muchstained. A few of the others are also not free from the same defect. 

_Fulgosii Bapt. Anteros. : sive de Amore. Printed by L. Pachel. Milan_. 1496. On the reverse of the title, is a very singular wood-cut--where Deathis sitting upon a coffin, and a blinded Cupid stands leaning against a treebefore him: with a variety of other allegorical figures. The present is abeautiful copy, in red morocco binding. 

_Gloria Mulierum. Printed by Jenson_. Quarto. This is another of the earlyJenson pieces which are coveted by the curious and of which a sufficientlyparticular account has been already given to the public[128] This copy istaller than that of the _Decor Puellarum_ (before described) but it is intoo tender a condition. 

_Legende Di Sancti per Nicolao di Manerbi, Printed by Jenson. Withoutdate_. Folio. It is just possible that you may not have forgotten a briefmention of a copy of this very rare book in the Mazarine Library atParis, [129] That copy, although beautiful, was upon paper: the present isUPON VELLUM--illuminated, very delicately in the margins, with figures ofdivers Saints. I take the work to be an Italian version of the well knownLEGENDA SANCTORUM. The book is doubtless among the most beautiful from thepress of JENSON, who is noticed in the prefatory advertisement of Manerbi. 

_Luctus Christianorum. Printed by Jenson_. Quarto. Another of the earlypieces of Jenson's press; and probably of the date of 1471. The present isa fair, nice copy; but has something of a foggy and suspicious aspect aboutit. I suspect it to have been washed. 

_Monte Sancto di Dio_. 1477. Folio. The chief value of this book consistsin its having good impressions of the THREE COPPER PLATES. Of these, only_one_ is in the present copy, which represents the Devil eating his victimsin the lake of Avernus, as given in the La Valliere copy. Yet the absenceof the two remaining plates, as it happens, constitutes the chiefattraction of this copy; for they are here supplied by two FAC-SIMILES, presented to the Library by Leopold Duke of Tuscany, of the mostwonderfully perfect execution I ever saw. 

_Petrarcha. Sonetti e Trionfi. Printed by V. De Spira. _ 1470. Folio. PrimaEdizione. The last leaf of the table is unluckily manuscript; and the lastleaf but one of the text is smaller than the rest--which appear to havebeen obtained, from another copy. In other respects, this is a large, sound, and desirable copy. It belonged to Prince Eugene. 

_Petrarcha. Sonetti e Trionfi. Printed by Zarotus. _ 1473. Folio. Thisedition (if the present copy of it be perfect) has no prefix of table orbiographical memorandum of Petrarch. A full page contains forty, andsometimes forty-two lines. On the recto of the last leaf is the colophon. This is a sound and clean, but apparently cropt copy; in old blue moroccobinding. 

_Petrarcha Sonetti e Trionfi. Printed by Jenson. _ 1473. Folio. A sound anddesirable copy, in red morocco binding; formerly belonging to PrinceEugene. 

----. _Comment. Borstii in Trionfi. Printed at Bologna. _ 1475. Folio. Hereare two copies of this beautifully printed, and by no means common, book. One of them belonged to Prince Eugene; and a glance upon the top corner ms. Pagination evidently proves it to have been cropt. It is in red moroccobinding. The other copy, bound in blue morocco, has the table inlaid; andis desirable--although inferior to the preceding. 

_Poggio. Historia Fiorentina. Printed by I. De Rossi. _ (Jacobus Rubeus)1476. Folio. First edition of the Italian version. This copy is really agreat curiosity. , The first seven books are printed _upon paper_ of a finetone and texture, and the leaves are absolutely _uncut_: a few leaves atthe beginning are soiled--especially the first; but the remainder are indelightful preservation, and shew what an old book _ought_ to be. Theeighth book is entirely printed UPON VELLUM; and some of these vellumleaves are perfectly enchanting. They are of the same size with the paper, and _also uncut. _ This volume has never been bound. I entreated M. Bartschto have it handsomely bound, but not to touch the fore edges. He consentedreadily. 

_Regula Confitendi Peccata Sua. _ 1473. Quarto. Of this book I never sawanother copy. The author is PICENUS, and the work is written throughout inthe Italian language. There are but seven leaves--executed in a letterwhich resembles the typographical productions of Bologna and Mantua. 

 * * * * *

GERMAN, FRENCH, AND SPANISH BOOKS. 

_Bone Vie (Livre De);_ qui est appelee Madenie. _Printed by A. Neyret atChambery. _ 1485. Folio. As far as signature 1 vj, the subject is prose:afterwards commences the poetry--"appelle la somme de la vision Iehan dupin. " The colophon is on the reverse of the last leaf but one. A wood-cutis on the last leaf. This small folio volume is printed in a tall, close, and inelegant gothic type; reminding me much of the LIVRE DE CHASSE printedat the same place, in 1486, and now in Lord Spencer's library. [130]

_Chevalier (Le) Delibre. _ 1488. Quarto. This book is filled with some veryneat wood cuts, and is printed in the gothic letter. The subject matter ispoetical. No name appears, but I suspect this edition to have been, printedin the office of Verard. 

_Cité des Dames (Le Tresor de la)_--"sclon dame christine. " Without Date. Folio. A fine, tall, clean copy; UPON VELLUM. The printer seems in allprobability to have been _Verard_. In red morocco binding. 

_Coronica del Cid ruy Diaz. _ _Printed at Seville. _ _Without Date. _ Quarto. The preceding title is beneath a neat wood-cut of a man on horseback, brandishing his sword; an old man, coming out of a gate, is beside him. Thesignatures from _a_ to _i vj_, are in eights. On _f ij_ is a singularwood-cut of a lion entering a room, where a man is apparently sleeping overa chess-board, while two men are rising from the table: this cut is rudelyexecuted. On _i v_ is the colophon. This edition is executed in thatpeculiarly rich and handsome style of printing, in a bold gothic letter, which distinguishes the early annals of the Spanish press. The presentbeautifully clean copy belonged to PRINCE EUGENE; but it has been severelycropt. 

_Ein nuizlich büchlin_ das man nennet den Pilgrim das hat der würdig doctorkeyserperg zü Augspurg geprediget. Such is the title of this singulartract, printed by _Lucas Zeisenmair_ at Augsbourg in 1498. Small 4to. Ithas many clever and curious wood-cuts; and I do not remember, in any partof Germany where I have travelled, to have seen another copy of it. 

_Fierbras. _ _Printed by G. Le Roy. _ 1486. Folio. This is a small folio, andthe third edition of the work. This copy is quite perfect; containing thelast leaf, on which is a large wood-cut. All the cuts here are colouredafter the fashion of the old times. This sound and desirable copy, in redmorocco binding, once graced the library of PRINCE EUGENE. 

_Iosephe. _ _Printed by Verard. _ 1492. Folio. "_Cy finist l'hystoire deJosephus de la bataille Judaique, &c_. " This is a noble folio volume;printed in the large handsome type of Verard, abounding with wood cuts. Itis in red morocco binding. 

_Jouvencel (Le). _ _Printed by Verard_, 1497. Folio. This is a fine copy, with coloured cuts, printed UPON VELLUM. It is badly bound. 

_Lancelot du Lac. _ _Printed by Verard. _ 1488. Folio. 2 vols. First Edition. A fine clean copy, but somewhat cropt. It once belonged to PRINCE EUGENE, and is bound in red morocco. 

---- _Printed by the Same. _ 1496. Folio. 3 vols. UPON VELLUM. In fine oldred morocco binding, beautifully tooled. This copy measures fifteen inchessix-eighths in height, by ten inches five-eighths in width. 

_Les Deux Amans. _ _Printed by Verard. _ 1493. Quarto. The title is beneaththe large L, of which a fac-simile appears in the first vol. Of my editionof our _Typographical Antiquities_. The work is old French poetry. Verard'sdevice is on the last leaf. A copy of this book is, in all probability, ina certain black-letter French-metrical cabinet in Portland Place. 

_Maguelone (La Belle). _ _Printed by Trepperel. _ 1492. Quarto. The precedingtitle is over Trepperel's device. The wood cuts in this edition have ratherunusual merit; especially that on the reverse of Ciiii. A very desirablecopy. 

_Marco Polo. Von Venedig des Grost Landtfarer. Germanicè. _ _Printed byCreusner. _ 1477. Folio. This is the FIRST EDITION of the Travels of MARCOPOLO; and I am not sure whether the present copy be not consideredunique. [131] A complete paginary and even lineal transcript of it wasobtained for Mr. Marsden's forth-coming translation of the work, into ourown language--under the superintendence of M. Kopitar. Its value, therefore, may be appreciated accordingly. 

_Regnars (Les)_ "trauersant les perilleuses voyes des folles frances dumöde. " _Printed by Verard. _ _No Date. _ 4to. This is a French metricalversion from the German of Sebastian Brandt. The present edition is printedin the black letter, double columns, with wood cuts. This is a fair goodcopy, bound in red morocco, and formerly belonging to Prince Eugene. 

_Tewrdannckh. _ 1517. Folio. The Emperor Maximilian's OWN COPY!--of courseUPON VELLUM. The cuts are coloured. The Abbé Strattman had told me that Ishould necessarily find this to be the largest and completest copy inexistence. It is very white and tall, measuring fifteen inches, by nine andthree quarters; and perhaps the largest known. Yet I suspect, from thesmooth glossy surface of the fore edge--in its recent and very common-placebinding, in russia--that the side margin was once broader. [132] The cutsshould not have been coloured, and the binding should haye been lessvulgar: Here is ANOTHER COPY, not quite so large, with the cutsuncoloured. [133]

_Tristran: chlr de la table ronde "nouellement Imprime a Paris_. " Folio. _Printed by Verard. _ Without Date. This is a fine sound copy, in oldhandsome calf binding. 

_Thucydide (L'hystoire de). _ _Printed by G. Gourmont. _ Without Date. Folio. The translator was Claude de Seyssel, when Bishop of Marseilles, and theedition was printed at the command of Francis the First. It is executed inthe small, neat, secretary gothic type of Gourmont; whose name is at thebottom of the title-page. This is a beautiful copy, struck off UPON VELLUM;but it is much cut in the fore edge, and much choked in the back of thebinding, which is in red morocco. It belonged to PRINCE EUGENE. 

 * * * * *

Comparatively copious as may be the preceding list, I fear it will notsatisfy you unless I make some mention of _Block Books_, and informyou whether, as you have long and justly supposed, there be not also a few_Cartons_ in the Imperial Library. These two points will occupy verylittle more of my time and attention. First then of _xylographical_productions--or of books supposed to have been printed by means of woodenblocks. I shall begin with an unique article of this description. It iscalled _Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis_: a folio, of twenty leaves: printedon one side only, but the leaves are here pasted together. Two leaves go toa signature, and the signatures run from A to K. Each page has two woodcuts, about twice as long as the text; or, rather, about one inch and threequarters of the text doubled. The text is evidently xylographic. The ink isof the usual pale, brown colour. This copy is coloured, of the time of thepublication of the book. It is in every respect in a fine and perfect stateof preservation. Here is the second, if not third edition, of the _BibliaPauperum_; the second edition of the _Apocalypse_; the same of the _Historyof the Virgin_; and a coloured and cropt copy of _Hartlib's Book uponChiromancy_: so much is it cropt, that the name of _Schopff_, the supposedprinter, is half cut away. The preceding books are all clumsily bound inmodern russia binding. As some compensation, however, there is a fine boundcopy, in red morocco binding, of the Latin edition of the _Speculum HumanæSalvationis_; and a very fine large copy, in blue morocco binding, of thefirst edition of the _Ars Memorandi per Figuras_; which latter had belongedto Prince Eugene. 

Of the CAXTONS, the list is more creditable; and indeed very much to becommended: for, out of our own country, I question whether the unitedstrength of all the continental libraries could furnish a more copioussupply of the productions of our venerable first printer. I send you thefollowing account--just as the several articles happened to be taken downfor my inspection. _Chaucer's Book of Fame_: a neat, clean, perfect copy:in modern russia binding. The _Mayster of Sentence_, &c. This is only aportion of a work, although it is perfect of itself, as to signatures andimprint. This copy, in modern russia binding, is much washed, and in a verytender state. _Game of Chess_; second edition. In very tender condition:bound in blue morocco, with pink lining. An exceedingly _doctored_ copy. _Iason_: a cropt, and rather dirty copy: which formerly belonged toGulstone. It appears to be perfect; for Gulstone has observed in ms. "_Thisbook has 148 leaves, as I told them carefully. 'Tis very scarce andvaluable, and deserves an extraordinary good binding_. " Below, is a note, in French; apparently by Count Reviczky. _Godfrey of Boulogne_: a perfect, large copy, in old red morocco (apparently Harleian) binding. On the flyleaf, Count Reviczky has written a notice of the date and name of theprinter of the book. Opposite the autograph of _Ames_ (to whom this copyonce belonged) the old price of 16_l. _ 16_s. _ is inserted. On the firstpage of the text, is the ancient autograph of _Henry Norreys_. This isdoubtless the most desirable Caxtonian volume in the collection. Thisdepartment of bibliography may be concluded by the mention of a sound anddesirable copy of the first edition of _Littleton's Tenures_ by _Lettou_and _Machlinia_, which had formerly belonged to Bayntun of Gray's Inn. This, and most of the preceding articles, from the early English press, were supplied to the Imperial library by the late Mr. Edwards. 

And now, my good friend, I hope to have fulfilled even your wishesrespecting the earlier and more curious book-treasures in the ImperialLibrary. But I must candidly affirm, that, although _you_ may be satisfied, it is not so with myself. More frequent visits, and less intrusion upon theavocations of Messrs. BARTSCH and KOPITAR--who ought, during the wholetime, to have been inhaling the breezes of Baden, --would doubtless haveenabled me to render the preceding catalogue more copious and satisfactory;but, whatever be its defects, either on the score of omission orcommission, it will at least have the merit of being the first, if not theonly, communication of its kind, which has been transmitted for Britishperusal. To speak fairly, there is a prodigious quantity of lumber--in theshape of books printed in the fifteenth century--in this Imperial Library, which might be well disposed of for more precious literary productions. TheMSS. Are doubtless, generally speaking, of great value; yet very far indeedfrom being equal, either in number or in intrinsic worth, to those in theRoyal Library at Paris. It is also to be deeply regretted, that, both ofthese MSS. And printed books--with the exception of the ponderous anddigressive work of Lambecius upon the former, --there should be NO printed_catalogue raisonné_. But I will hope that the "Saturnia regna" are aboutto return; and that the love of bibliographical research, which now seemsgenerally, to pervade, the principal librarians of the public collectionsupon the continent, will lead to the appearance of some solid andsatisfactory performance upon the subjects of which this letter hastreated. Fare you well. The post will depart in a few minutes, and I amperemptorily summoned to the operatical ballet of _Der Berggeist_. 

[109] [All this is profound matter, or secret history--(such as my friend Mr. D'Israeli dearly loves) for future writers to comment upon. ]

[110] [Mons. Bartsch did NOT LIVE to peruse this humble record of his worth. More of him in a subsequent note. ]

[111] [M. Payne now CEASES TO EXIST. ]

[112] My excellent friend M. A. DE BARTSCH has favoured me with the following particulars relating to the Imperial Library. The building was begun in 1723, and finished in 1735, by Joseph Emanuel, Baron de Fischer, Architect of the Court: the same who built the beautiful church of St. Charles Borromeo, in the suburbs. The Library is 246 German feet in length, by 62 in width: the oval dome, running at right angles, and forming something like transepts, is 93 feet long, and 93 feet high, by 57 wide. The fresco-paintings, with which the ceiling of the dome in particular is profusely covered, were executed by Daniel Gran. The number of the books is supposed to amount to 300, 000 volumes: of which 8000 were printed in the XVth. Century, and 750 are atlas folios filled with engravings. These 750 volumes contain about 180, 000 prints; of which the pecuniary value, according to the computation of the day, cannot be less than 3, 300, 000 "florins argent de convention"--according to a valuation (says M. Bartsch) which I made last year. This may amount to £300, 000. Of our money. I apprehend there is nothing in Europe to be put in competition with such a collection. 

[113] The reader may not be displeased to consult, for one moment, the _Bibliog. Decameron_; vol. I. Pp. Xliii. Iv. 

[114] [A sad tale is connected with the procuring of a copy, or fac-simile, of the initial letter in question. I was most anxious to possess a _coloured_ fac-simile of it; and had authorised M. Bartsch to obtain it at _almost_ any price. He stipulated (I think with M. Fendi) to obtain it for £10. Sterling; and the fac-simile was executed in all respects worthy of the reputation of the artist, and to afford M. Bartsch the most unqualified satisfaction. It was dispatched to me by permission of the Ambassador, in the Messenger's bag of dispatches:--but it NEVER reached me. Meanwhile my worthy friend M. Bartsch became impatient and almost angry at the delay; and the artist naturally wondered at the tardiness of payment. Something like _suspicion_ had began to take possession of my friend's mind--when the fact was disclosed to him ... And his sorrow and vexation were unbounded. The money was duly remitted and received; but "the valuable consideration" was never enjoyed by the too enthusiastic traveller. This beautiful copy has doubtless perished from accident. ]

[115] Vol. Ii. P. 458. 

[116] Tasso, in fact, retouched and almost remodelled his poem, under the title of _Jerusalem Conquered_, and published it under that of Jerusalem Delivered. See upon these alterations and corrections, Brunet, _Manuel du Libraire_, vol. Iii. P. 298. Edit. 1814; _Haym Bibl. _ Ital. Vol. Ii. P. 28. Edit. 1808; and particularly Ginguené _Hist. Lit. D'Italie, _ vol. V. P. 504. 

[117] See p. 139, ante. 

[118] Lord Spencer has now obtained a copy of it--as may be seen in _Ædes Althorpianæ_, vol. Ii. Pp. 39-40, where a facsimile of the type is given. 

[119] See pages 98, 103, 228, 239, ante. His Lordship's first copy of the POLISH PROTESTANT BIBLE had been obtained from three imperfect copies at VIENNA; for which I have understood that nearly a hundred guineas were paid. The Augsbourg copy now supplies the place of the previous one; which latter, I learn, is in the Bodleian library, at Oxford. 

[120] A particular account of this edition will be found in the _Bibl. Spencer. _ vol. Iv. Page 522. 

[121] See the _Bibl. Spencer. _; vol. I. Page 135-144. 

[122] It is singular enough that the Curators of this Library, some twenty years ago, threw out PRINCE EUGENE'S copy of the above edition, as a duplicate--which happened to be somewhat larger and finer. This latter copy, bound in red morocco, with the arms of the Prince on the sides, now graces the shelves of Lord Spencer's Library. See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. I. P. 305, 7. 

[123] See vol. Ii. P. 120. 

[124] See vol. Ii. P: 120. 

[125] Including LEXICOGRAPHY. 

[126] A copy of this edition (printed in all probability by Fyner of Eislingen) was sold at the sale of Mr. Hibbert's library for £8. 12s. 

[127] [Of which, specimens appear in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_, vol. Ii. P. 273, &c. From the copy in Lord Spencer's collection--a copy, which may be pronounced to be the FINEST KNOWN copy in the world!]

[128] _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. Iv. P. 121. 

[129] Vol. Ii. P. 191. 

[130] This book is fully described, with numerous fac-similes of the wood-cuts, in the Ædes' Althorpianæ, vol. Ii. P. 204-213. 

[131] Since the above was written, Lord Spencer has obtained a very fine and perfect copy of it, through Messrs. Payne and Foss: which copy will be found fully described, with a fac-simile of a supposed whole-length portrait of MARCO POLO, in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_, vol. Ii. P. 176. 

[132] I think I remember to have seen, at Messrs. Payne and Foss's, the finest copy of this book in England. It was upon vellum, in the original binding, and measured fourteen inches three quarters by nine and a half. Unluckily, it wanted the whole of the table at the end. See the _Bibliog. Decameron_, vol. I. P. 202. [Recently, my neighbour and especial good friend Sir F. Freeling, Bart. Has fortunately come into the possession of a most beautifully fair and perfect copy of this resplendent volume. ]

[133] While upon the subject of this book, it may not be immaterial to add, that I saw the ORIGINAL PAINTINGS from which the large wood blocks were taken for the well known work entitled "the _Triumphs of the Emperor Maximilian_" in large folio. These paintings are in water colours, upon rolls of vellum, very fresh--and rather gaudily executed. They do not convey any high notion of art, and I own that I greatly prefer the blocks (of which I saw several) to the original paintings. These were the blocks which our friend Mr. Douce entreated Mr. Edwards to examine when he came to Vienna, and with these he printed the well-known edition of the Triumphs, of the date of 1794. 

LETTER XI. 

POPULATION. STREETS AND FOUNTAINS. CHURCHES. CONVENTS. PALACES. THEATRES. THE PRATER. THE EMPEROR'S PRIVATE LIBRARY. COLLECTION OF DUKE ALBERT. SUBURBS. MONASTERY OF CLOSTERNEUBURG. DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA. 

_Vienna, September_ 18, 1818. 

My dear friend;

"Extremum hunc--mihi concede laborem. " In other words, I shall trouble youfor the last time with an epistle from the Austrian territories: at anyrate, with the last communication from the capital of the empire. Since mypreceding letter, I have stirred a good deal abroad: even from breakfastuntil a late dinner hour. By the aid of a bright sky, and a brighter moon, I have also visited public places of entertainment; for, having completedmy researches at the library, I was resolved to devote the mornings tosociety and sights out of doors. I have also made a pleasant day's trip tothe MONASTERY of CLOSTERNEUBURG--about nine English miles from hence; andhave been led into temptation by the sight of some half dozen folios of ayet more exquisite condition than almost any thing previously beheld. Ihave even bought sundry tomes, of monks with long bushy beards, in amonastery in the suburbs, called the ROSSAU; and might, if I had pleased, have purchased their whole library--covered with the dust and cobwebs of atleast a couple of centuries. 

As, in all previous letters, when arrived at a new capital, I must beginthe present by giving you some account of the population, buildings, publicsights, and national character of the place in which I have now tarried forthe last three weeks; and which--as I think I observed at the conclusion ofmy _first_ letter from hence--was more characteristic of English fashionsand appearances than any thing before witnessed by me ... Even since mylanding at Dieppe. The CITY of VIENNA may contain a population of 60, 000souls; but its SUBURBS, which are _thirty-three_ in number, and I believethe largest in Europe, contain full _three times_ that number ofinhabitants. [134] This estimate has been furnished me by M. Bartsch, according to the census taken in 1815. Vienna itself contains 7150 houses;123 palaces; and 29 Catholic parishes; 17 convents, of which three arefilled by _Religieuses_; one Protestant church; one of the reformedpersuasion; two churches of the united Greek faith, and one of the Greek, not united. [135] Of synagogues, I should think there must be a greatnumber; for even _Judaism_ seems, in this city, to be a thriving andwealthy profession. Hebrew bibles and Hebrew almanacks are sufficientlycommon. I bought a recent impression of the former, in five crown octavovolumes, neatly bound in sheep skin, for about seven shillings of ourmoney; and an atlas folio sheet of the latter for a penny. You meet withJews every where: itinerant and stationary. The former, who seem to be halfJew and half Turk, are great frequenters of hotels, with boxes full oftrinkets and caskets. One of this class has regularly paid me a visit everymorning, pretending to have the genuine attar of roses and rich rubies todispose of. But these were not to my taste. I learnt, however, that thisman had recently married his daughter, --and boasted of having been able togive her a dowry equal to 10, 000l. Of our money. He is short of stature, with a strongly-expressive countenance, and a well-arranged turban--andlaughs unceasingly at whatever he says himself, or is said of him. 

As Vienna may be called the key of Italy, on the land side--or, speakingless figuratively, the concentrating point where Greeks, Turks, Jews, andItalians meet for the arrangement of their mercantile affairs throughoutthe continent of Europe--it will necessarily follow that you see a greatnumber of individuals belonging to the respective countries from whencethey migrate. Accordingly, you are constantly struck with the number andvariety of characters, of this class, which you meet from about the hour ofthree till five. Short clokes, edged with sable or ermine, and delicatelytrimmed mustachios, with the throat exposed, mark the courteous Greek andAlbanian. Long robes, trimmed with tarnished silver or gold, with thicklyfolded girdles and turbans, and beards of unrestrained growth, point outthe majestic Turk. The olive-tinted visage, with a full, keen, black eye, and a costume half Greek and half Turkish, distinguish the citizen ofVenice or Verona. Most of these carry pipes, of a varying length, fromwhich volumes of fragrant smoke occasionally issue; but the exercise ofsmoking is generally made subservient to that of talking: while the loudlaugh, or reirated reply, or, emphatic asseveration, of certain individualsin the passing throng, adds much to the general interest of the scene. 

Smoking, however, is a most decidedly general characteristic of the place. Two shops out of six in some streets are filled with pipes, of which the_bowls_ exhibit specimens of the most curious and costly workmanship. Thehandles are generally short. A good Austrian thinks he can never pay toomuch for a good pipe; and the upper classes of society sometimes expendgreat sums in the acquisition of these objects of comfort or fashion. Itwas only the other evening, when, in company with my friends Messrs. G. AndS. , and Madame la Comtesse de------a gentleman drew forth from his pocket ashort pipe, which screwed together in three divisions, and of which theupper part of the bowl--(made in the fashion of a black-a-moor's head) nearthe aperture--was composed of diamonds of great lustre and value. Uponenquiry, I found that this pipe was worth about 1000l. Of our money!--andwhat surprised me yet more, was, the cool and unconcerned manner in whichthe owner pulled it out of a loose great-coat pocket--as if it had been atobacco box not worth half a dozen kreutzers! Such is their love of smokinghere, that, in one of their most frequented coffee-houses--where I wentafter dinner for a cup of coffee--the centre of the room was occupied bytwo billiard tables, which were surrounded by lookers on:--from the mouthsof every one of whom, including even the players themselves, issuedconstant and pungent puffs of smoke, so as to fill the whole room with adense cloud, which caused me instantly to retreat... As if grazed by amusket ball. 

Of female society I can absolutely say little or nothing. The upper circlesof society are all broken up for the gaieties of Baden. Yet, at the opera, at the Prater, and in the streets, I should say that the general appearanceand manners of the females are very interesting; strongly resembling, inthe former respect, those of our own country. In the streets, and in theshops, the women wear their own hair, which is generally of a light browncolour, apparently well brushed and combed, platted and twisted intograceful forms. In complexion, they are generally fair, with blue eyes; andin stature they are usually short and stout. The men are, I think, everywhere good-natured, obliging, and extremely anxious to pay you everyattention of which you stand in need. If I could but speak the languagefluently, I should quickly fancy myself in England. The French languagehere is less useful than the Italian, in making yourself understood. 

So much for the living, or active life. Let me now direct your attention toinanimate objects; and these will readily strike you as relating to_Buildings_--in their varied characters of houses, churches and palaces. First, of the STREETS. I told you, a little before, that there are upwardsof one hundred and twenty palaces, so called, in Vienna; but the truth is, almost every street may be said to be filled with palaces: so large andlofty are the houses of which they are usually composed. Sometimes astreet, of a tolerable length, will contain only a dozen houses--as, forinstance, that of the _Wallnerstrasse:_ at the further end of which, to theright, lives Mr. ------ the second banker (Count Fries being the first) inVienna. Some of the banking-houses have quite the air of noblemen'schateaux. It is true, that these houses, like our Inns of Court, areinhabited by different families; yet the external appearance, beinguniform, and frequently highly decorated, have an exceedingly picturesqueappearance. The architectural ornaments, over the doors and windows--somiserably wanting in our principal streets and squares, and of which theabsence gives to Portland Place the look, at a distance, of a range ofbarracks--are here, yet more than at Augsbourg or Munich, boldly andsometimes beautifully managed. The _Palace of Prince Eugene_[136] in thestreet in which I reside, and which no Englishman ought to gaze at withoutemotions of pleasure--is highly illustrative of the justice of theforegoing remark. This palace is now converted into the _Mint_. Thedoor-ways and window-frames are, generally, throughout the streets ofVienna, of a bold and pleasing architectural character. From one tillthree, the usual hour of dining, the streets of Vienna are stripped oftheir full complement of population; but from three till six; at the latterof which hours the plays and opera begin, there is a numerous and animatedpopulation. Notwithstanding the season of the year, the days have beensometimes even sultry; while over head has constantly appeared one of thebluest and brightest skies ever viewed by human eyes. 

Among the most pleasing accompaniments or characteristics of streetscenery, at Vienna, are the FOUNTAINS. They are very different from thoseat Paris; exhibiting more representations of the human figure, and lesswater. In the _Place_, before mentioned, is probably the most lofty andelaborate of these sculptured accompaniments of a fountain: but, in a sortof square called the _New Market_, and through which I regularly passed inmy way to the Imperial Library--there is a fountain of a particularlypleasing, and, to my eye, tasteful cast of character; executed, I think, byDONNER. A large circular cistern receives the water, which is constantlyflowing into it, from some one or the other of the surrounding male andfemale figures, of the size of life. One of these male figures, naked, isleaning over the side of the cistern, about to strike a fish, or someaquatic monster, with a harpoon or dart--while one of his legs (I think itis the right) is thrown back with a strong muscular expression, restingupon the earth--as if to balance the figure, thus leaning forward--therebygiving it an exceedingly natural and characteristic air. Upon the whole, although I am not sure that any _one_ fountain, of the character justmentioned, may equal that in the High Street at Augsbourg, yet, takencollectively, I should say that Vienna has reason to claim its equalitywith any other city in Europe, on the score of this most picturesque, andfrequently salutary, accompaniment of street scenery. In our own country, which has the amplest means of any other in the world, of carrying theseobjects of public taste into execution, there seems to be aninfatuation--amounting to hopeless stupidity--respecting the uniformexclusion of them. 

While I am on these desultory topics, let me say a word or two respectingthe _quoi vivre_ in this metropolis. There are few or no _restaurateurs_:at least, at this moment, only two of especial note. [137] I have dined ateach--and very much prefer the vin du Pays, of the better sort [138]--whichis red, and called _vin d'Offner_ (or some such name) to that at Paris. Butthe _meats_, are less choice and less curiously cooked; and I must say thatthe sense of smelling is not very acute with the Germans. The mutton canonly be attacked by teeth of the firmest setting. The beef is alwayspreferable in a stewed or boiled state; although at our Ambassador's table, the other day, I saw and partook of a roasted sirloin which would have donehonour to either tavern in Bishopsgate-street. The veal is the _safest_article to attack. The pastry is upon the whole relishing and good. Thebread is in every respect the most nutritive and digestive which I haveever partaken of. The _fruit_, at this moment, is perfectly delicious, especially, the pears. Peaches and grapes are abundant in the streets, andexceedingly reasonable in price. Last Sunday, we dined at the palace of_Schönbrunn;_ or rather, in the suite of apartments, which were formerlyservant's offices, --but which are now fitted up in a very tasteful and gaymanner, for the reception of Sunday visitors: it being one of the principalfashionable places of resort on the Sabbath. We had a half boiled and halfstewed fowl, beefsteak, and fritters, for dinner. The, beef was perfectlyuneatable, as being entirely _gone_--but the other dishes were good andwell served. The dessert made amends for all previous grievances. Itconsisted of peaches and grapes--just gathered from the imperial garden:the Emperor allowing his old servants (who are the owners of the taverns, and who gain a livelihood from Sunday visitors) to partake of thisprivilege. The choicest table at Paris or at London could not boast offiner specimens of the fruit in question. I may here add, that the_slaughter-houses_ are all in the suburbs--or, at any rate, without theramparts. This is a good regulation; but it is horribly disgusting, attimes, to observe carts going along, with the dead bodies of animals, hanging down the sides, with their heads cut off. 

Of all cities in Europe, Vienna is probably the most distinguished for theexcellence of its CARRIAGES of every description--and especially for its_Hackney Coaches. _ I grant you, that there is nothing here comparable withour London carriages, made on the nicest principles of art: whether forsprings, shape, interior accommodations, or luxury; but I am certain that, for almost every species of carriage to be obtained at London, you maypurchase them _here_ at half the price. Satin linings of yellow, pink, andblue, are very prevalent ... Even in their hackney coaches. These latter, are, in truth, most admirable, and of all shapes: landau, barouche, phaeton, chariot, or roomy family coach. Glass of every description, atVienna--from the lustre that illuminates the Imperial Palace to that whichis used in the theatre--is excellent; so that you are sure to have plateglass in your fiacre. The coachmen drive swiftly, and delight inrectangular turns. They often come thundering down upon you unawares, andas the streets are generally very narrow, it is difficult to secure aretreat in good time. At the corners of the streets are large stone posts, to protect the houses from the otherwise constant attrition from thewheels. The streets are paved with large stones, and the noise of thewheels, arising from the rapidity of their motion, --re-echoed by the heightof the houses, is no trifling trial to nervous strangers. 

Of the chief objects of architecture which decorate street scenery, thereare none, to my old-fashioned eyes, more attractive and more thoroughlybeautiful and interesting--from a thousand associations of ideas--thanPLACES OF WORSHIP--and of course, among these, none stands so eminentlyconspicuous as the Mother-Church, or the CATHEDRAL, which, in this place, is dedicated to _St. Stephen_. The spire has been long distinguished forits elegance and height. Probably these are the most appropriate, if notthe only, epithets of commendation which can be applied to it. AfterStrasbourg and Ulm, it appears a second-rate edifice. Not but what thespire may even vie with that of the former, and the nave may be yet largerthan that of the latter: but, as a _whole_, it is much inferior toeither--even allowing for the palpable falling off in the nave ofStrasbourg cathedral. The spire, or tower--for it partakes of bothcharacters--is indeed worthy of general admiration. It is oddly situated, being almost detached--and on the _south_ side of the building. Indeed thewhole structure has a very strange, and I may add capricious, if notrepulsive, appearance, as to its exterior. The western and eastern endshave nothing deserving of distinct notice or commendation. The former has aporch, which is called "_the Giant's porch_:" it should rather bedesignated as that of the _Dwarf_. It has no pretensions to size orstriking character of any description. Some of the oldest parts of thecathedral appear to belong to the porch of the eastern end. As you walkround the church, you cannot fail to be struck with the great variety ofancient, and to an Englishman, whimsical looking mural monuments, in bassoand alto relievos. Some of these are doubtless both interesting andcurious. 

But the spire[140] is indeed an object deserving of particular admiration. It is next to that of Strasbourg in height; being 432 feet of Viennameasurement. It may be said to begin to taper from the first stage orfloor; and is distinguished for its open and sometimes intricate fretwork. About two-thirds of its height, just above the clock, and where the moreslender part of the spire commences, there is a gallery or platform, towhich the French quickly ascended, on their possession of Vienna, toreconnoitre the surrounding country. The very summit of the spire is bent, or inclined to the north; so much so, as to give the notion that the cap orcrown will fall in a short time. As to the period of the erection of thisspire, it is supposed to have been about the middle, or latter end, of thefifteenth century. It has certainly much in common with the highlyornamental gothic style of building in our own country, about the reign ofHenry the VIth. The coloured glazed tiles of the roof of the church arevery disagreeable and _unharmonising_. These colours are chiefly green, red, and blue. Indeed the whole roof is exceedingly heavy and tasteless. Iwill now conduct you to the interior. On entering, from the south-eastdoor, you observe, to the left, a small piece of white marble--which everyone touches, with the finger or thumb charged with holy water, on enteringor leaving the cathedral. Such have been the countless thousands of timesthat this piece of marble has been so touched, that, purely, from suchfriction, it has been worn nearly _half an inch_ below the generalsurrounding surface. I have great doubts, however, if this mysterious pieceof masonry be as old as the walls of the church, (which may be of thefourteenth century) which they pretend to say it is. 

The first view of the interior of this cathedral, seen even at the mostfavourable moment--which is from about three till five o'clock--is far fromprepossing. Indeed, after what I had seen at Rouen, Paris, Strasboug, Ulm, and Munich, it was a palpable disappointment. In the first place, thereseems to be no grand leading feature of simplicity: add to which, darknessreigns every where. You look up, and discern no roof--not so much from itsextreme height, as from the absolute want of windows. Every thing not onlylooks dreary, but is dingy and black--from the mere dirt and dust whichseem to have covered the great pillars of the nave--and especially thefigures and ornament upon it--for the last four centuries. This is the moreto be regretted, as the larger pillars are highly ornamented; having humanfigures, of the size of life, beneath sharply pointed canopies, running upthe shafts. The extreme length of the cathedral is 342 feet of Viennameasurement. The extreme width, between the tower and its oppositeextremity--or the transepts--is _222_ feet. 

There are comparatively few chapels; only four--but many _Bethstücke_ or_Prie-Dieus_. Of the former, the chapels of _Savoy_ and _St. Eloy_ are thechief: but the large sacristy is more extensive than either. On my firstentrance, whilst attentively examining the choir, I noticed--what wasreally a very provoking, but probably not a very uncommon sight, --a maidservant deliberately using a long broom in sweeping the pavement of thehigh altar, at the moment when several very respectable people, of bothsexes, were kneeling upon the steps, occupied in prayer. But the devotionof the people is incessant--all the day long, --and in all parts of thecathedral. The little altars, or _Prie-Dieus, _ seem to be innumerable. Yonder kneels an emaciated figure, before a yet more emaciated crucifix. Itis a female--bending down, as it were, to the very grave. She has hardlystrength to hold together her clasped hands, or to raise her downcast eye. Yet she prays--earnestly, loudly, and from the heart. Near her, kneels agroup of her own sex: young, active, and ardent--as she _once_ was; andeven comely and beautiful ... As she _might_ have been. They evidentlybelong to the more respectable classes of society--and are kneeling beforea framed and glazed picture of the Virgin and Child, of which the lowerpart is absolutely smothered with flowers. There is a natural, and as itwere well-regulated, expression of piety among them, which bespeaks agenuineness of feeling and of devotion. 

Meanwhile, service is going on in all parts of the cathedral. They aresinging here: they are praying there: and they are preaching in a thirdplace. But during the whole time, I never heard one single note of theorgan. I remember only the other Sunday morning--walking out beneath one ofthe brightest blue skies that ever shone upon man--and entering thecathedral about nine o'clock. A preacher was in the principal pulpit; whilea tolerably numerous congregation was gathered around him. He preached, ofcourse, in the German language, and used much action. As he became more andmore animated, he necessarily became warmer, and pulled off a blackcap--which, till then, he had kept upon his head: the zeal and piety of thecongregation at the same time seeming to increase with the acceleratedmotions of the preacher. In other more retired parts, solitary devoteeswere seen--silent, and absorbed in prayer. Among these, I shall not easilyforget the head and the physiognomical expression of one old man--who, having been supported by crutches, which lay by the side of him--appearedto have come for the last time to offer his orisons to heaven. The lightshone full upon his bald head and elevated countenance; which latterindicated a genuineness of piety, and benevolence, of disposition, not tobe soured... Even by the most-bitter of worldly disappointments! It seemedas if the old man were taking leave of this life, in full confidence of therewards which await the righteous beyond the grave. Not a creature was nearhim but myself;--when, on the completion of his devotions, finding thatthose who had attended him thither were not at hand to lead him away--heseemed to cast an asking eye of assistance upon me: nor did he look twicebefore that assistance was granted. I helped to raise him up; but, ere hecould bring my hand in contact with his lips, to express histhankfulness--his friends ... Apparently his daughter, and twograndchildren ... Arrived--and receiving his benediction, quietly, steadily, and securely, led him forth from the cathedral. No pencil ... Nopen ... Can do justice to the entire effect of this touching picture. 

So much for the living. A word or two now for the dead. Of course thislatter alludes to the MONUMENTS of the more distinguished characters onceresident in and near the metropolis. Among these, doubtless the mostelaborate is that of the _Emperor Frederick III_. --in the florid gothicstyle, surmounted by a tablet, filled with coat-armour, or heraldicshields. Some of the mural monuments are very curious, and among them areseveral of the early part of the sixteenth century--which represent thechins and even mouths of females, entirely covered by drapery: such as iseven now to be seen ... And such as we saw on descending from the Vosges;But among these monuments--both for absolute and relative antiquity--nonewill appear to the curious eye of an antiquary so precious as that of thehead of the ARCHITECT of THE CATHEDRAL, whose name was _Pilgram. _ This headis twice seen--first, on the wall of the south side aisle, a good dealabove the spectator's eye, and therefore in a foreshortened manner--as thefollowing representation of it testifies;[141]

[Illustration: S. Fresman. ]

The second representation of it is in one of the heads in the hexagonalpulpit--in the nave, and in which the preacher was holding forth as beforementioned. Some say that these heads represent one and the same person; butI was told that they were designated for those of the _master_ and_apprentice:_ the former being the apprentice, and the latter the master. 

The preceding may suffice for a description of this cathedral; in which, asI before observed, there is a palpable want of simplicity and of breadth ofconstruction. The eye wanders over a large mass of building, without beingable to rest upon any thing either striking from its magnificence, ordelighting by its beauty and elaborate detail. The pillars which divide thenave from the side aisles, are however excluded from this censure. There isone thing--and a most lamentable instance of depraved taste it undoubtedlyis--which I must not omit mentioning. It relates to the representation ofour Saviour. Whether as a painting, or as a piece of sculpture, this sacredfigure is generally made most repulsive--even, in the cathedral. It ismeagre in form, wretched in physiognomical expression, and marked bydisgusting appearances of blood about the forehead and throat. In thechurch of _St. Mary_, supposed to be the oldest in Vienna, as you enter thesouth door, to the left, there is a whole length standing figure ofChrist--placed in an obscure niche--of which the part, immediately underthe chin, is covered with red paint, in disgusting imitation of blood: asif the throat had been recently cut, --and patches of paint, to representdrops of blood, are also seen upon the feet!

In regard to other churches, that of _St. Mary_, supposed to be, in part, as old as the XIIIth century, has one very great curiosity, decidedlyworthy of notice. It is a group on the outside, as you enter a door in apassage or court--through which the whole population of Vienna should seemto pass in the course of the day. This group, or subject, represents our_Saviour's Agony in the garden of Gethsemane_: the favourite subject ofrepresentation throughout Austria. In the foreground, the figure of Christ, kneeling, is sufficiently conspicuous. Sometimes a handkerchief is placedbetween the hands, and sometimes not. His disciples are asleep by the sideof him. In the middle ground, the soldiers, headed by Judas Iscariot, areleaping over the fence, and entering the garden to seize him: in the background, they are leading him away to Caiphas, and buffeting him in theroute. These latter groups are necessarily diminutive. The whole is cut instone--I should think about three centuries ago--and painted after thelife. As the people are constantly passing along, you observe, every nowand then, some devout citizen dropping upon his knee, and repeating ahurried prayer before the figure of Christ. 

The _Church of the Augustins_ is near at hand; and the contents of _that_church are, to my taste and feelings, more precious than any of whichVienna may boast. I allude to the famous monument erected to the memory ofthe wife of the present venerable DUKE ALBERT OF SAXE TESCHEN. It isconsidered to be the chef d'oeuvre of CANOVA; and with justice. The churchof the Augustins laying directly in my way to the Imperial Library, I thinkI may safely say that I used, two mornings out of three, to enter it--onpurpose to renew my acquaintance with the monument in question. Myadmiration increased upon every such renewal. Take it, all in all, I canconceive nothing in art to go beyond it. It is alone worth a pilgrimage toVienna: nor will I from henceforth pine about what has perished from thehand of Phidias or Praxiteles--it is sufficient that this monumentremains... From the chisel of CANOVA. 

I will describe it briefly, and criticise it with the same freedom which Iused towards the _Madonna_ of the same sculptor, in the collection of theMarquis de Sommariva at Paris. [142] At the time of my viewing it, a littleafter ten o'clock, the organ was generally playing--and a very fine chantwas usually being performed: rather soft, tender, and impressive--than loudand overwhelming. I own that, by a thousand associations of ideas, (whichit were difficult to describe) this coincidence helped to give a moresolemn effect to the object before me. You enter a door, immediatelyopposite to it--and no man of taste can view it, unexpectedly, for thefirst time, without standing still ... The very moment it meets his eyes!This monument, which is raised about four feet above the pavement, and isencircled by small iron palisades--at a distance just sufficient to affordevery opportunity of looking correctly at each part of it--consists ofseveral figures, in procession, which are about to enter an opened door, atthe base of a pyramid of gray marble. Over the door is a medallion, inprofile, of the deceased... Supported by an angel. To the right of the dooris a huge lion couchant, asleep. You look into the entrance ... And seenothing ... But darkness: neither boundary nor termination being visible. To the right, a young man--resting his arm upon the lion's mane, is lookingupwards, with an intensity of sorrowful expression. This figure is naked;and represents the protecting genius of the afflicted husband. To the leftof the door, is the moving procession. One tall majestic female figure, with dishevelled hair, and a fillet of gold round her brow, is walking witha slow, measured step, embracing the urn which contains the ashes of thedeceased. Her head is bending down, as if her tears were mingling with thecontents of the urn. The drapery of this figure is most elaborate andprofuse, and decorated with wreaths of flowers. Two children--symbolical, Isuppose, of innocence and purity--walk by her side ... Looking upwards, andscattering flowers. In the rear, appear three figures, which are intendedto represent the charitable character of the deceased. Of these, two areeminently conspicuous ... Namely, an old man leaning upon the arm of ayoung woman ... Illustrative of the bounty and benevolence of theDuchess:--and intended to represent her liberality and kind-heartedness, equally in the protection of the old and feeble, as in that of the orphanand helpless young. The figures are united, as it were, by a youthfulfemale, with a wreath of flowers; with which, indeed the ground is somewhatprofusely strewn: so as, to an eye uninitiated in ancient costume, to givethe subject rather a festive character. The whole is of the size oflife. [143]

Such is the mere dry descriptive detail of this master-piece of the art ofCANOVA. I now come to a more close and critical survey of it; and willfirst observe upon what appear to me to be the (perhaps venial) defects ofthis magnificent monument. In the first place, I could have wished themedallion of the duchess and the supporting angel--_elsewhere_. It is acommon-place, and indeed, here, an irrelevant ornament. The deceased haspassed into eternity. The apparently interminable excavation into which thefigures are about to move, helps to impress your mind with this idea. Theduchess is to be thought of ... Or seen, in the mind's eye... As aninhabitant of _another world_ ... And therefore not to be brought to yourrecollection by a common-place representation of her countenance inprofile--as an inhabitant of _earth. _ Besides, the chief female figure ormourner, about to enter the vault, is carrying her ashes in an urn: and Iown it appears to me to be a little incongruous--or, at least, a littledefective in that pure classical taste which the sculptor unquestionablypossesses, --to put, what may be considered visible and invisible--ortangible and intangible--representations of the _same_ person before you atthe _same_ time. If a representation of the figure of the duchess benecessary, it should not be in the form of a medallion. The pyramidalback-ground would doubtless have had a grander effect without it. 

The lion is also, to me, an objectionable subject. If allegory benecessary, it should be pure, and not mixed. If a _human figure_, at oneend of the group, be considered a fit representation of benevolence ... Thenotion or idea meant to be conveyed by a _lion_, at the other end, shouldnot be conveyed by the introduction of an animal. Nor is it at allobvious--supposing an animal to be necessary--to understand why a lion, whomay be considered as placed there to guard the entrance of the pyramid, should be represented _asleep?_ If he be sympathising with the generalsorrow, he should not be sleeping; for acute affliction rarely allows ofslumber. If his mere object be to guard the entrance, by sleeping he shewshimself to be unworthy of trust. In a word, allegory, always bad in itself, should not be _mixed_; and we naturally ask what business lions and humanbeings have together? Or, we suppose that the females in view have wellstrung nerves to walk thus leisurely with a huge lion--even sleeping--infront of them!

The human figures are indeed delightful to contemplate. Perfect in form, inattitude, and expression, they proclaim the powers of a consummate master. A fastidious observer might indeed object to the bold, muscular strength ofthe old man--as exhibited in his legs and arms--and as indicative of thematurity, rather than of the approaching extinction, of life ... But whatsculptor, in the representation of such subjects, can resist the temptationof displaying the biceps and gastrocnemian muscles? The countenances areall exquisite: all full of nature and taste... With as little introduction, as may be, of Grecian art. To my feelings, the figure of the young man--tothe right of the lion--is the most exquisitely perfect. His countenance isindeed heavenly; and there is a play and harmony in the position anddemarcation of his limbs, infinitely beyond any thing which I can presumeto put in competition with it. In every point of view, in which I regardedthis figure, it gained upon my admiration; and on leaving the church, forthe last time, I said within myself--"if I have not seen the _BelvedereApollo_, I have again and again viewed the monument to the memory of the_Duchess Albert of Saxe-Teschen_, by CANOVA... And I am satisfied to returnto England in consequence. "

From churches we will walk together to CONVENTS. Here are only two aboutwhich I deem it necessary to give you any description; and these are, the_Convent of the Capuchins_, near the new Market Place, and that of the_Franciscans_, near the street in which I lodge. The former is tenanted bylong-bearded monks. On knocking at the outer gate, the door was opened byan apparently middle-aged man, upon whose long silvery, and broad-spreadingbeard, the light seemed to dart down with a surprisingly, picturesqueeffect. Behind him was a dark cloister; or at least, a cloister verypartially illumined--along which two younger monks were pacing in fullcostume. The person who opened the outward door proved to be the _porter_. He might, from personal respectability, and amplitude of beard, have beenthe _President_. On my servant's telling him our object was to view theIMPERIAL TOMBS, which are placed in a vault in this monastery, hedisappeared; and we were addressed by a younger person, with a beard upon acomparatively diminutive scale, and with the top of his hair very curiouslycut in a circular form. He professed his readiness to accompany usimmediately into the receptacle of departed imperial grandeur. He spokeLatin with myself, and his vernacular tongue with the valet. I was soonsatisfied with the sepulchral spectacle. As a whole, it has a poor and evendisagreeable effect: if you except one or two tombs, such as those of_Francis I_. Emperor of the Romans, and _Maria Theresa_--which latter isthe most elaborately ornamented of the whole: but it wants both space andlight to be seen effectually, and is moreover I submit, in too florid astyle of decoration. Like the generality of them, it is composed of bronze. The tombs of the earlier Emperors of Germany lie in a long and gloomynarrow recess--where little light penetrates, and where there is littlespace for an accurate examination. I should call them rather_coffin-shells_ than monuments. When I noticed the tomb of the EmperorJoseph II. To my guide, he seemed hardly to vouchsafe a glance at it ... Adding, "yes, he is well known every where!" They rather consider him (fromthe wholesale manner in which the monasteries and convents were convertedby him to civil purposes) as a sort of _softened-down Henry VIII_. Upon thewhole, the living interested me more than the dead ... In this gloomyretirement ... Notwithstanding these vaults are said to contain very littleshort of fourscore tombs of departed Emperors and Monarchs. 

The MONASTERY OF THE FRANCISCANS is really an object worth visiting ... Ifit be only to convince you of the comfort and happiness of ... _not_ beinga _Franciscan monk. _ I went thither several times, and sauntered in thecloisters of the quadrangle. An intelligent middle-aged woman--a sort ofhousekeeper of the establishment--who conversed with me pretty fluently inthe French language, afforded me all the information which I was desirousof possessing. She said she had nothing to do with the kitchen, ordormitories of the monks. They cooked their own meat, and made their ownbeds. You see these monks constantly walking about the streets, and evenentering the hotels. They live chiefly upon alms. They are usuallybare-headed, and bare-footed--with the exception of sandals. Their dress isa thick brown cloak, with a cowl hanging behind in a peaked point: thewhole made of the coarsest materials. They have no beards--and yet, altogether, they have a very squalid and dirty appearance. It was towardseight o'clock, when I walked for the first time, in the cloisters; andthere viewed, amongst other mural decorations, an oil painting--in whichseveral of their order are represented as undergoing martyrdom--by hanging, and severing their limbs. It was a horrid sight ... And yet the _living_was not very attractive. 

Although placed in the very heart of the metropolis of their country, thisFranciscan fraternity appears to be insensible of every comfort of society. To their palate, nothing seems to be so sweet as the tainted morsel uponthe trencher--and to their ear, no sound more grateful than the melancholyecho, from the tread of their own cloister. Every thing, which so muchpleased and gratified me in the great Austrian monasteries ofCHREMSMINSTER, ST. FLORIAN, MÕLK, and GÕTTWIC, would, in such anatmosphere, and in such a tenement as the Franciscan monastery here, havebeen chilled, decomposed, and converted into the very reverse of all formerand cheerful impressions. No walnut-tree shelved libraries: no tier upontier of clasp and knob-bound folios: no saloon, where the sides areemblazoned by Salzburg marble; and no festive board, where the watchfulseneschal never allows the elongated glass to remain five minutesunreplenished by Rhenish wine of the most exquisite flavour! None of these, nor of any thing even remotely approximating to them, were to be witnessed, or partaken of, in the dreary abode of monachism which I have justdescribed. 

You will be glad to quit such a comfortless residence; and I am equallyimpatient with yourself to view more agreeable sights. Having visited thetombs of departed royalty, let us now enter the abodes--or ratherPALACES--of _living_ imperial grandeur. I have already told you thatVienna, on the first glance of the houses, looks like a city of palaces;those buildings, which are professedly _palatial_, being indeed of aglorious extent and magnificence. And yet--it seems strange to make theremark ... Will you believe me when I say, that, of the various palaces, orlarge mansions visited by me, that of the EMPEROR is the least imposing--asa whole? The front is very long and lofty; but it has a sort ofarchitectural tameness about it, which gives it rather the air of theresidence of the Lord Chamberlains than of their regal master. Yet the_Saloon_, in this palace, must not be passed over in silence. It meritsindeed warm commendation. The roof, which is of an unusual height, issupported by pillars in imitation of polished marble ... But why are theynot marble _itself_? The prevailing colour is white--perhaps to excess; butthe number and quality of the looking glasses, lustres, and chandeliers, strike you as the most prominent features of this interior. I own that, forpure, solid taste, I greatly preferred the never-to-be-forgotten saloon inthe monastery of St. Florian. [144] The rooms throughout the palaces arerather comfortable than gorgeous--if we except the music and ball rooms. Some scarlet velvet, of scarce and precious manufacture, struck me asexceedingly beautiful in one of the principal drawing rooms. I saw here acelebrated statue of a draped female, sitting, the workmanship of Canova. It is worthy of the chisel of the master. As to paintings, there are noneworth description on the score of the old masters. Every thing of this kindseems to be concentrated in the palace of the Belvedere. 

To the BELVEDERE PALACE, therefore, let us go. I visited it with Mr. Lewis--taking our valet with us, immediately after breakfast--on one of thefinest and clearest-skied September mornings that ever shone above the headof man. We had resolved to take the _Ambras_, or the LITTLE BELVEDERE, inour way; and to have a good, long, and uninterrupted view of the wonders ofart--in a variety of departments. Both the little Belvedere and the largeBelvedere rise gradually above the suburbs; and the latter may be about amile and a half from the ramparts of the city. The _Ambras_ contains aquantity of ancient horse and foot armour; brought thither from a chateauof that name, near Inspruck, and built by the Emperor Charles V. Such acollection of old armour--which had once equally graced and protected thebodies of their wearers, among whom, the noblest names of which Germany canboast may be enrolled--was infinitely gratifying to me. The sides of thefirst room were quite embossed with suspended shields, cuirasses, andbreast-plates. The floor was almost filled by champions on horseback--yetpoising the spear, or holding it in the rest--yet _almost_ shaking theirangry plumes, and pricking the fiery sides of their coursers. Here rodeMaximilian--and there halted Charles his Son. Different suits of armour, belonging to the same character, are studiously shewn you by the guide:some of these are the foot, and some the horse, armour: some were worn infight--yet giving evidence of the mark of the bullet and battle axe: otherswere the holiday suits of armour ... With which the knights marched inprocession, or tilted at the tournament. The workmanship of the full-dresssuits, in which a great deal of highly wrought gold ornament appears, issometimes really exquisite. 

The second, or long room, is more particularly appropriated to the foot orinfantry armour. In this studied display of much that is interesting fromantiquity, and splendid from absolute beauty and costliness, I wasparticularly gratified by the sight of the armour which the EmperorMaximilian wore as a foot-captain. The lower part, to defend the thighs, consists of a puckered or plated steel-petticoat, sticking out at thebottom of the folds, considerably beyond the upper part. It is very simple, and of polished steel. A fine suit of armour--of black and gold--worn by anArchbishop of Salzburg in the middle of the fifteenth century, hadparticular claims upon my admiration. It was at once chaste and effective. The mace was by the side of it. This room is also ornamented by trophiestaken from the Turks; such as bows, spears, battle-axes, and scymitars. Inshort, the whole is full of interest and splendor. I ought to have seen theARSENAL--which I learn is of uncommon magnificence; and, although not socurious on the score of antiquity, is yet not destitute of relics of theold warriors of Germany. Among these, those which belonged to my oldbibliomaniacal friend Corvinus, King of Hungary, cut a conspicuous and veryrespectable figure. I fear it will be now impracticable to see the Arsenalas it ought to be seen. 

It is now approaching mid-day, and we are walking towards the terrace infront of the GREAT BELVEDERE PALACE: built by the immortal EUGENE in theyear 1724, as a summer residence. Probably no spot could have been selectedwith better judgment for the residence of a Prince--who wished to enjoy, almost at the same moment, the charms of the country with the magnificenceof a city view... Unclouded by the dense fumes which for ever envelope ourmetropolis. It is in truth a glorious situation. Walking along its wide andwell cultivated terraces, you obtain the finest view imaginable of the cityof Vienna. Indeed it may be called a picturesque view. The spire of thecathedral darts directly upwards, as it were, to the very heavens. Theground before you, and in the distance, is gently undulating; and theintermediate portion of the suburbs does not present any very offensiveprotrusions. More in the distance, the windings of the Danube are seen;with its various little islands, studded with hamlets and fishing huts, lighted up by a sun of unusual radiance. Indeed the sky, above the whole ofthis rich and civilized scene, was, at the time of our viewing it, almostof a dazzling hue: so deep and vivid a tint we had never before beheld. Behind the palace, in the distance, you observe a chain of mountains whichextends into Hungary. As to the building itself, I must say that it isperfectly _palatial_; in its size, form, ornaments, and general effect. Hemust be fastidious indeed, who could desire a nobler residence for the mostillustrious character in the kingdom!

Among the treasures, which it contains, it is now high time to enter and tolook about us. Yet what am I attempting?--to be your _cicerone_ ... Inevery apartment, covered with canvas or pannel, upon which colours of allhues, are seen from the bottom to the top of the palace!? It cannot be. Myaccount, therefore, is necessarily a mere sketch. RUBENS, if any artist, seems here to "rule and reign without control!" Two large rooms are filledwith his productions; besides several other pictures, by the same hand, which are placed in different apartments. Here it is that you see verifiedthe truth of Sir Joshua's remark upon that wonderful artist: namely, thathis genius seems to expand with the size of his canvas. His pencilabsolutely riots here--in the most luxuriant manner--whether in the majestyof an altarpiece, in the gaiety of a festive scene [145], or in thesobriety of portrait-painting. His _Ignatius Loyola_ and _St. FrancisXavier_--of the former class--each seventeen feet high, by nearly thirteenwide--are stupendous productions ... In more senses than one. The latteris, indeed, in my humble judgment, the most marvellous specimen of thepowers of the painter which I have ever seen... And you must remember thatboth England and France are not without some of his most celebratedproductions--which I have frequently examined. 

In the _old German School_, the series is almost countless: and of thegreatest possible degree of interest and curiosity. Here are to be seen_Wohlgemuths, Albert Durers, _ both the _Holbeins, Lucas Cranachs, Ambergaus, _ and _Burgmairs_ of all sizes and degrees of merit. Among theseancient specimens--which are placed in curious order, in the very uppersuite of apartments, and of which the back-grounds of several, in one solidcoat of gilt, lighten up the room like a golden sunset--you must not failto pay particular attention to a singularly curious oldsubject--representing the _Life, Miracles, and Passion of our Saviour_, ina series of one hundred and fifty-eight pictures--of which the largest isnearly three feet square, and every other about fifteen inches by ten. These subjects are painted upon eighty-six small pieces of wood; of whichseventy-two are contained in six folding cabinets, each cabinet holdingtwelve subjects. In regard to _Teniers, Gerard Dow, Mieris, Wouvermann, _and _Cuyp_ ... You must look _at home_ for more exquisite specimens. Thiscollection contains, in the whole, not fewer than FIFTEEN HUNDREDPAINTINGS: of which the greater portion consists of pictures of very largedimensions. I could have lived here for a month; but could only move alongwith the hurried step, and yet more hurrying eye, of an ordinaryvisitor[146]. 

About three English miles from the Great Belvedere--or rather about thesame number of miles from Vienna, to the right, as you approach theCapital--is the famous palace of SCHÖNBRUNN. This is a sort ofsummer-residence of the Emperor; and it is here that his daughter, theex-Empress of France, and the young Bonaparte usually reside. The latternever goes into Italy, when his mother, as Duchess of Parma, pays herannual visit to her principality. At this moment her Son is at Baden, withthe court. It was in the Schönbrunn palace that his father, on the conquestof Vienna, used to take up his abode; rarely, venturing into the city. Hewas surely safe enough here; as every chamber and every court yard wasfilled by the élite of his guard--whether as officers or soldiers. It is amost magnificent pile of building: a truly imperial residence--but neitherthe furniture nor the objects of art, whether connected with sculpture orpainting, are deserving of any thing in the shape of a _catalogueraisonné_. I saw the chamber where young Bonaparte frequently passes theday; and brandished his flag staff, and beat upon his drum. He is a soldier(as they tell me) every inch of him; and rides out, through the streets ofVienna, in a carriage of state drawn by four or six horses, receiving the_homages_ of the passing multitude. 

To return to the SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE. I have already told you that it isvast, and capable of accommodating the largest retinue of courtiers. It isof the _Gardens_ belonging to them, that I would now only wish to say aword. These gardens are really worthy of the residence to which they areattached. For what is called ornamental, formal, gardening--enriched byshrubs of rarity, and trees of magnificence--enlivened byfountains--adorned by sculpture--and diversified by vistos, lawns, andwalks--interspersed with grottos and artificial ruins--you can conceivenothing upon a grander scale than these: while a menagerie in one place(where I saw a large but miserably wasted elephant)--a flower garden inanother--a labyrinth in a third, and a solitude in a fourth place--each, inits turn; equally beguiles the hour and the walk. They are the mostspacious gardens I ever witnessed. 

The preceding is all I can tell you, from actual observation, about the

PALACES at Vienna. Those of the Noblesse, with the exception of that ofDuke Albert, I have not visited; as I learn that the families are fromhome--and that the furniture is not arranged in the order in which onecould wish it to be for the purpose of inspection or admiration. But I mustnot omit saying a word or two about the TREASURY--where the Court Jewelsand Regalia are kept and where curious clocks and watches, of earlyNuremburg manufacture, will not fail to strike and astonish the antiquary. But there are other objects, of a yet more powerful attraction:particularly a series of _crowns_ studded with gems and precious stones, from the time of Maximilian downwards. If I remember rightly, they shewedme here the crown which that famous Emperor himself wore. It is, comparatively, plain, ponderous, and massive. Among the more modern regalornaments, I was shewn a precious diamond which fastened the cloak of theEmperor or Empress (I really forget which) on the day of coronation. It islarge, oval-shaped, and, in particular points of view, seemed to flash adazzling radiance throughout the room. 

It was therefore with a _refreshing_ sort of delight that I turned from"the wealth of either Ind" to feast upon a set of old china, upon which thedrawings are said to have been furnished by the pencil of Raffaelle. Iadmit that this is a sort of _suspicious_ object of art: in other words, that, if all the old china, _said_ to be ornamented by the pencil ofRaffaelle, were really the production of that great man, he could have donenothing else but paint upon baked earth from his cradle to his grave--andall the _oil paintings_ by him _must_ be spurious. The present, however, having been presented by the Pope, may be safely allowed to be genuine. Inthis suite of apartments--filled, from one extremity to the other, with allthat is gay, and gorgeous, and precious, appertaining to royalty--I wasparticularly struck with the insignia of regality belonging to Bonaparte asKing of Rome. It was a crown, sceptre, and robe--of which the two formerwere composed of metal, like brass--but of a form particularly chaste andelegant. There is great facility of access afforded for a sight of thesevaluable treasures, and I was surprised to find myself in a crowd ofvisitors at the outer door, who, upon gaining entrance, rushed forward in asort of scrambling manner, and spread themselves in various directionsabout the apartment. Upon seeing one of the guides, I took him aside, andasked him in a quiet manner "what was done with all these treasures whenthe French visited their capital?" He replied quickly, and emphatically, "they were taken away, and safely lodged in the Emperor's Hungariandominions. "

You may remember that the conclusion of my last letter left me just aboutto start to witness an entertainment called _Der Berggeist_, or the _Geniusof the Mountain;_ and that, in the opening of this letter, I almost madeboast of the gaiety of my evening amusements. In short, for a man fond ofmusic--and in the country of GLUCK, MOZART and HAYDN--_not_ to visit thetheatres, where a gratification of this sort, in all the perfection andvariety of its powers, is held forth, might be considered a sort of heresyhardly to be pardoned. Accordingly, I have seen _Die Zauberflöte, DieHochzeit des Figaro_, and _Don Giovanni:_ the two former quite enchantinglyperformed--but the latter greatly inferior to the representation of it atour own Opera House. The band, although less numerous than ours, seems tobe perfect in every movement of the piece. You hear, throughout, aprecision, clearness, and brilliancy of touch--together with a facility ofexecution, and fulness of instrumental tone--which almost impresses youwith the conviction that the performers were _born_ musicians. Theprincipal opera house, or rather that in which the principal singers areengaged, is near the palace, and is called _Im Theater nächst demKärnthnerthoc_. Here I saw the _Marriage of Figaro_ performed with greatspirit and éclat. A young lady, a new performer of the name, of _Wranizth_, played Susannah in a style exquisitely naïve and effective. She was one ofthe most natural performers I ever saw; and her voice seemed to possessequal sweetness and compass. She is a rising favourite, and full ofpromise. Madame _Hönig_ played Mazelline rather heavily, and sungelaborately, but scientifically. The Germans are good natured creatures, and always prefer commendation to censure. Hence the plaudits with whichthese two rival syrens were received. 

The other, opera house, which is in the suburbs, and called_Schauspielhause_, is by much the larger and more commodious place ofentertainment. I seized with avidity the first opportunity of seeing the_Zauberflöte_ here, and here also I saw Don Giovanni: the former asperfectly, in every respect, as the latter was inefficiently, performed. But here I saw the marvellous ballet, or afterpiece, called _DieBerggeist_; and I will tell you why I think it marvellous. It is entirelyperformed by children of all ages--from three to sixteen--with theexception of the venerable-bearded old gentleman, who is called the _Geniusof the Mountain_. The author of the piece or ballet "von herrnBallet-meister"--is _Friedrich Horschelt:_ who, if in such a department orvocation in society a man may be said (and why should he not?) to "deservewell of his country, " is, I think, eminently entitled to that distinction. The truth is, that, all the little rogues (I do not speak literally) whomwe saw before us upon the stage--and who amount to nearly one hundred andtwenty in number--were absolutely beggar-children, and the offspring ofbeggars, or of the lowest possible classes in society. They earned alivelihood by the craft of asking alms. Mr. Horschelt conceived the plan ofconverting these hapless little vagabonds into members of some honest anduseful calling. He saw an active little match girl trip across the street, and solicit alms in a very winning and even graceful manner--"that shall bemy _columbine_, " said he:--and she was so. A young lad of a sturdy form, and sluggish movement, is converted into a _clown_: a slim youth is made topersonate _harlequin_--and thus he forms and puts into action the differentcharacters of his entertainment... Absolutely and exclusively out of thevery lowest orders of society. 

To witness what these metamorphosed little creatures perform, is really towitness a miracle. Every thing they do is in consonance with a well-devisedand well-executed plot. The whole is in harmony. They perform characters ofdifferent classes; sometimes allegorical, as præternaturalbeings--sometimes real, as rustics at one moment, and courtiers atanother--but whether as fairies, or attendants upon goddesses--and whetherthe dance be formal or frolicksome--whether in groups of many, or in a pasde deux, or pas seul--they perform with surprising accuracy and effect. Theprincipal performer, who had really been the little match girl abovedescribed, and who might have just turned her sixteenth year--would nothave disgraced the boards of the Paris opera--at a moment, even, whenAlbert and Bigotini were engaged upon them. I never witnessed any thingmore brilliant and more perfect than she was in all her evolutions andpirouettes. Nor are the lads behind hand in mettle and vigorous movement. One boy, about fourteen, almost divided the plaudits of the house with thefair nymph just mentioned--who, during the evening, had equally shone as agoddess, a queen, a fairy, and a columbine. The emperor of Austria, who isan excellent good man--and has really the moral welfare of his people atheart--was at first a little fearful about the _effect_ of this earlymetamorphosis of his subjects into actors and actresses; but he learnt, upon careful enquiry, that these children, when placed out in the world--asthey generally are before seventeen, unless they absolutely prefer theprofession in which they have been engaged--generally turn out to be worthyand good members of society. Their salaries are fixed and moderate, andthus superfluous wealth does not lead them into temptation. 

On the conclusion of the preceding piece, the stage was entirely filled bythe whole juvenile _Corps Dramatique_--perhaps amounting to about onehundred and twenty in number. They were divided into classes, according tosize, dress, and talent. After a succession of rapid evolutions, the wholegroup moved gently to the sound of soft music, while masses of purpletinted clouds descended, and alighted about them. Some were received intothe clouds--which were then lifted up--and displayed groups of the smallestchildren upon their very summits, united by wreaths of roses; while thelarger children remained below. The entire front of the stage, up to thevery top, was occupied by the most extraordinary and most imposing sight Iever beheld--and as the clouds carried the whole of the children upwards, the curtain fell, and the piece concluded. On its conclusion, the audiencewere in a perfect frenzy of applause, and demanded the author to comeforward and receive the meed of their admiration. He quickly obeyed theirsummons--and I was surprised, when I saw him, at the youthfulness of hisappearance, the homeliness of his dress, and the simplicity of his manners. He thrice bowed to the audience, laying his hand the same number of timesupon his heart. I am quite sure that, if he were to come to London, andinstitute the same kind of exhibition, he would entirely fill Drury Lane orCovent Garden--as I saw the _Schauspielhause_ filled--with parents andchildren from top to bottom. 

But a truce to _in-door_ recreations. You are longing, no doubt, to scentthe evening breeze along the banks of the PRATER, or among the toweringelms of the AUGARTEN--both public places of amusement within about a leagueof the ramparts of the city. It was the other Sunday evening when I visitedthe Prater, and when--as the weather happened to be very fine--it wasconsidered to be full: but the absence of the court, and of the noblesse, necessarily gave a less joyous and splendid aspect to the carriages andtheir attendant liveries. In your way to this famous place of sabbathevening promenade, you pass a celebrated coffee house, in the suburbs, called the _Leopoldstadt_, which goes by the name of the _Greekcoffee-house_--on account of its being almost entirely frequented byGreeks--so numerous at Vienna. Do not pass it, if you should ever comehither, without entering it--at least _once_. You would fancy yourself tobe in Greece: so thoroughly characteristic are the countenances, dresses, and language of every one within. 

[Illustration: THE PRATER, VIENNA. ]

But yonder commences the procession ... Of horse and foot: of cabriolets, family coaches, german waggons, cars, phaetons, and landaulets ... Allmoving in a measured manner, within their prescribed ranks, towards thePRATER. We must accompany them without loss of time. You now reach thePrater. It is an extensive flat, surrounded by branches of the Danube, andplanted on each side with double rows of horse chesnut trees. The drive, inone straight line, is probably a league in length. It is divided by tworoads, in one of which the company move _onward_, and in the other they_return_. Consequently, if you happen to find a hillock only a few feethigh, you may, from thence, obtain a pretty good view of the interminableprocession of the carriages before mentioned: one current of them, as itwere, moving forward, and another rolling backward. But, hark!--the notesof a harp are heard to the left ... In a meadow, where the foot passengersoften digress from the more formal tree-lined promenade. A press of ladiesand gentlemen is quickly seen. You mingle involuntarily with them: and, looking forward, you observe a small stage erected, upon which a harpersits and two singers stand. The company now lie down upon the grass, orbreak into standing groups, or sit upon chairs hired for the occasion--tolisten to the notes so boldly and so feelingly executed. [147] The clappingof hands, and exclamations of bravo! succeed: and the sounds of applause, however warmly bestowed, quickly die away in the open air. The performersbow: receive a few kreutschers ... Retire; and are well satisfied. 

The sound of the trumpet is now heard behind you. Tilting feats are aboutto be performed: the coursers snort and are put in motion: their hides arebathed in sweat beneath their ponderous housings; and the blood, whichflows freely from the pricks of their riders' spurs, shews you with whatearnestness the whole affair is conducted. There, the ring is thricecarried off at the point of the lance. Feats of horsemanship follow in acovered building, to the right; and the juggler, conjurer, or magician, displays his dexterous feats, or exercises his potent spells ... In alittle amphitheatre of trees, at a distance beyond. Here and there risemore stately edifices, as theatres ... From the doors of which a throng ofheated spectators is pouring out, after having indulged their grief or joyat the Mary Stuart of Schiller, or the----of----.. In other directions, booths, stalls, and tables are fixed; where the hungry eat, the thirstydrink, and the merry-hearted indulge in potent libations. The waiters arein a constant state of locomotion. Rhenish wine sparkles here;confectionary glitters there; and fruit looks bright and tempting in athird place. No guest turns round to eye the company; because he is intentupon the luxuries which invite his immediate attention--or he is in closeconversation with an intimate friend, or a beloved female. They talk andlaugh, --and the present seems to be the happiest moment of their lives. 

All is gaiety and good humour. You return again to the foot-promenade, andlook sharply about you, as you move onward, to catch the spark of beauty, or admire the costume of taste, or confess the power of expression. It isan Albanian female who walks yonder ... Wondering, and asking questions, atevery thing she sees. The proud Jewess, supported by her husband andfather, moves in another direction. She is covered with brocade andflaunting ribbands; but she is abstracted from every thing around her ... Because her eyes are cast downwards upon her stomacher, or sideways toobtain a glimse of what may be called her spangled epaulettes. Her eye islarge and dark: her nose is aquiline: her complexion is of an olive brown:her stature is majestic, her dress is gorgeous, her gait is measured--andher demeanour is grave and composed. "She _must_ be very rich, " you say--asshe passes on. "She is _prodigiously_ rich, " replies the friend, to whomyou put the question:--for seven virgins, with nosegays of choicestflowers, held up her bridal train; and the like number of youths, withsilver-hilted swords, and robes of ermine and satin, graced the same bridalceremony. Her father thinks he can never do enough for her; and herhusband, that he can never love her sufficiently. 

Whether she be happy or not, in consequence, we have no time to stop toenquire ... For, see yonder! three "turbaned Turks" make their advances. How gaily, how magnificently they are attired! What finely proportionedlimbs--what beautifully formed features! They have been carousing, peradventure, with some young Greeks--who have just saluted them, enpassant--at the famous coffee-house before-mentioned. Every thing aroundyou is novel and striking; while the verdure of the trees and lawns is yetfresh, and the sun does not seem yet disposed to sink below the horizon. The carriages still move on, and return, in measured procession. Those whoare within, look earnestly from the windows--to catch a glance of theirpassing friends. The fair hand is waved here; the curiously-painted fan isshaken there; and the repeated nod is seen in almost every other passinglandaulet. Not a heart seems sad; not a brow appears to be clouded withcare. 

Such--or something like the foregoing--is the scene which usually passes ona Sunday evening--perhaps six months out of the twelve--upon the famousPRATER at Vienna; while the tolling bell of St. Stephen's tower, about nineo'clock--and the groups of visitors hurrying back, to get home before thegates of the city are shut against them--usually conclude the scene justdescribed. 

And now, my good friend, methinks I have given you a pretty fair account ofthe more prominent features of this city--in regard to its public sights;whether as connected with still or active life: as churches, palaces, ortheatres. It remains, therefore, to return again, briefly, but yetwillingly, to the subject of BOOKS; or rather, to the notice of two_Private Collections, _ especially deserving of description--and of which, the first is that of the EMPEROR HIMSELF. 

His Majesty's collection of Books and Prints is kept upon the second andthird floors of a portion of the building connected with the great Imperiallibrary. Mr. T. YOUNG is the librarian; and he also holds the honourableoffice of being Secretary of his Majesty's privy council. He is welldeserving of both situations, for he fills them with ability and success. He has the perfect appearance of an Englishman, both in figure and face. Ashe speaks French readily and perfectly well, our interviews have beenfrequent, and our conversations such as have led me to think that we shallnot easily forget each other. But for the library, of which he is theguardian. It is contained in three or four rooms of moderate dimensions, and has very much the appearance of an English Country Gentleman'scollection of about 10, 000 volumes. The bindings are generally in goodtaste: in full-gilt light and gray calf--with occasional folios and quartosresplendent in morocco and gold. I hardly know when I have seen a morecheerful and comfortable looking library; and was equally gratified to findsuch a copious sprinkling of publications from Old England. 

But my immediate, and indeed principal object, was, a list of a few of the_Rarities_ of the Emperor's private collection, as well in ms. As in print. Mr. Young placed before me much that was exquisite and interesting in theformer, and splendid and creditable in the latter, department. He begged ofme to judge with my own eyes, and determine for myself; and he would thensupply me with a list of what he considered to be most valuable andsplendid in the collection. Accordingly, what here ensues, must beconsidered as the united descriptions of my guide and myself:--Mr. Younghaving composed his memoranda in the Latin language. First, of theMANUSCRIPTS. The _Gospels;_ a vellum folio:--with illuminated capitals, andthirteen larger paintings, supposed to be of the thirteenth--but I suspectrather of the fourteenth--century. A _Breviary ... "for the use of Charlesthe Bold, Duke of Burgundy_" This vellum MS. Is of the fifteenth century, and was executed for the distinguished character to whom it is expresslydedicated. This is really an elegant volume: written in the gothiccharacter of the period, and sprinkled with marginal and capital initialdecorations. Here are--as usual in works of this kind, executed for princesand great men--divers illuminations of figures of saints, of which thereare three of larger size than the rest: and, of these three, one iseminently interesting, as exhibiting a small portrait of DUKE CHARLEShimself, kneeling before his tutelary saint. 

Here is an exceedingly pretty octavo volume of _Hours, _ of the fifteenthcentury, fresh and sparkling in its illuminations, with marginaldecorations of flowers, monsters, and capriccios. It is in the binding ofthe time--the wood, covered with gilt ornaments. _Office of the Virgin:_ aneat vellum MS. Of the fourteenth century--with ornamented capital initialsand margins, and about two dozen of larger illuminations. But the chiefattraction of this MS. Arises from the text having been written by four ofthe most celebrated Princesses of the House of Austria, whose names areinscribed in the first fly leaf. 

Here is a "_Boccace des Cas des Nobles_" by Laurent Premier Fait--which isindeed every where. Nor must a sprinkle of _Roman Classics_ be omitted tobe noticed, however briefly. A _Celsus, Portions of Livy, _ the_Metamorphosis of Ovid_, _Seneca's Tragedies_, the _Æneid of Virgil_, and_Juvenal_: none, I think, of a later period than the beginning or middle ofthe fifteenth century--just before the invention of printing. Among theMSS. Of a miscellaneous class, are two which I was well pleased to examine:namely, the _Funerailles des Reines de France_, in folio--adorned witheleven large illuminations of royal funerals--and a work entitled _MayniJasonis Juris consulti Eq. Rom. Cæs. , &c, Epitalamion, in_ 4to. The latterMS. Is, in short, an epithalamium upon the marriage of Maximilian the Greatand Blanche Maria, composed by M. Jaso, who was a ducal senator, andattached to the embassy which returned with the destined bride forMaximilian. What is its _chief_ ornament, in my estimation, are two sweetlyexecuted small portraits of the royal husband and his consort. I wasearnest to have fac-similes of them; and Mr. Young gave me the strongestassurances that my wishes should be attended to. [148] Thus much; or perhapsthus little, for the MSS. Still more brief must be my account of thePRINTED BOOKS: and first for a fifteener or two. It is an edition of _DioChrysostom de Regno_, without date, or name of printer, in 4to. ; but mostdecidedly executed (as I told Mr. Young) by _Valdarfer_. What renders thiscopy exceedingly precious is, that it is printed UPON VELLUM; and is, Ithink, the only known copy so executed. It is in beautiful condition. Hereis a pretty volume of _Hours_, in Latin, with a French metrical version, printed in the fifteenth century, without date, and struck off UPON VELLUM. It has wood-cuts, which are coloured of the time. From a copy of ms. Verses, at the beginning of the volume, we learn that "the author of thismetrical version was _Peter Gringore, _ commonly called _Vaudemont_, heraldat arms to the Duke of Lorraine; who dedicated and brought this very copyto _Renatus of Bourbon_. " I was much struck with a magnificent folio_Missal_, printed at Venice by that skilful typographical artist _I. H. DeLandoia, _ in 1488--UPON VELLUM: with the cuts coloured. [149] A few smallvellum _Hours_ by _Vostre_ and Vivian are sufficiently pretty. 

In the class of books printed upon vellum, and continuing with thesixteenth century, I must not fail to commence with the notice of twocopies of the _Tewrdannckh_, each of the date of 1517, and each UPONVELLUM. One is coloured, and the other not coloured. Mr. Young describesthe former in the following animated language: "Exemplar omnibus numerisabsolutum, optimeque servatum. Præstantissimum, rarissimumque tumtypographicæ, tum xylographicæ artis, monumentum. " _Lucani Pharsalia, _1811. Folio. Printed by Degen. A beautiful copy, of a magnificent book, UPON VELLUM; illustrated by ten copper plates. _M. C. Frontonis Opera:edidit Maius Mediol_. 1815. 4to. An unique copy; upon vellum. _FloreMedicale decrite par Chaumeton & peinte par Mme. E. Panckoucke & I. F. Turpin. Paris, _ 1814. Supposed to be unique, as a vellum copy; with theoriginal drawings, and the cuts printed in bistre. Here is also amagnificent work, called "_Omaggio delle Provincie Venetæ_" upon thenuptials of the present Emperor and Empress of Austria. It consists ofseventeen copper-plates, printed upon vellum, and preserved in two cases, covered with beautiful ornaments and figures, in worked gold and silver, &c. Of this magnificent production of art, there were two copies onlyprinted upon vellum, and this is one of them. 

Up stairs, on the third floor, is kept his Majesty's COLLECTION of ENGRAVEDPORTRAITS--which amount, as Mr. Young informed me, to not fewer than120, 000 in number. They commence with the earliest series, from the oldGerman and Italian masters, and descend regularly to our own times. Ofcourse such a collection contains very much that is exquisite and rare inthe series of _British Portraits_. Mr. Young is an Italian by birth; buthas been nurtured, from earliest youth, in the Austrian dominions. He is aman of strong cultivated parts, and so fond of the literature of the"_Zodiacus Vitæ_" of _Marcellus Palingenius_--translated by our _BarnabeGooge_: of the editions of which translation he was very desirous that Ishould procure him a copious and correct list. But it is the gentle andobliging manners--the frank and open-hearted conversation--and, above all, the high-minded devotedness to his Royal master and to his interests, thatattach, and ever will attach, Mr. Young to me--by ties of no easilydissoluble nature. We have parted ... Perhaps never to meet again; but hemay rest assured that the recollection of his kindnesses ("Semper honosnomenque, " &c. ) will never be obliterated from my memory. [150]

Scarcely a stone's throw from the Imperial Library, is the noble mansion ofthe venerable DUKE ALBERT of _Saxe-Teschen:_ the husband of the lady towhose memory Canova has erected the proudest trophy of his art. Thisamiable and accomplished nobleman has turned his eightieth year; and ismost liberal and kind in the display of all the treasures which belong tohim. [151] These "treasures" are of a first-rate character; both as to_Drawings_ and _Prints_. He has no rival in the _former_ department, andeven surpasses the Emperor in the latter. I visited and examined hiscollection (necessarily in a superficial manner) twice; paying onlyparticular attention to the drawings of the Italian school--including thoseof Claude Lorraine. I do not know what is in our _own_ royal collection, but I may safely say that our friend Mr. Ottley has some finer _MichelAngelos and Raffaelles_--and the Duke of Devonshire towers, beyond allcompetition, in the possession of _Claude Lorraines_. Yet you are to knowthat the drawings of Duke Albert amount to nearly 12, 000 in number. Theyare admirably well arranged--in a large, light room--overlooking theramparts. Having so recently examined the productions of the earliermasters in the German school, at Munich--but more particularly in PrinceEugene's collection of prints, in the Imperial Library here--I did not careto look after those specimens of the same masters which were in the portfolios of the Duke Albert. The _Albert Durer_ drawings, however, excited myattention, and extorted the warmest commendation. It is quite delightful tolearn (for so M. Bartsch told me--the Duke himself being just now at Baden)that this dignified and truly respectable old man, yet takes delight in thetreasures of his own incomparable collection. "Whenever I visit him (saidmy "fidus Achates" M. B. ) he begs me to take a chair and sit beside him; andis anxious to obtain intelligence of any thing curious, or rare, orbeautiful, which may add to the worth of his collection. "

It is now high time, methinks, to take leave not only of public and privatecollections of books, but of almost every thing else in Vienna. Yet I mustadd a word connected with literature and the fine arts. As to the former, it seems to sleep soundly. Few or no literary societies are encouraged, fewpublic discussions are tolerated, and the capital of the empire is withouteither _reviews_ or _institutions_--which can bear the least comparisonwith our own. The library of the University is said, however, to holdfourscore thousand volumes. Few critical works are published there; and for_one_ Greek or Roman classic put forth at Vienna, they have _half_ a_score_ at Leipsic, Franckfort, Leyden, and Strasbourg. But in Orientalliterature, M. Hammer is a tower of strength, and justly considered to bethe pride of his country. The Academy of Painting is here a mere shadow ofa shade. In the fine arts, Munich is as six to one beyond Vienna. Atorpidity, amounting to infatuation, seems to possess those public men whohave influence both on the councils and prosperity of their country. Whenthe impulse for talent, furnished by the antique gems belonging to theImperial collection, [152] is considered, it is surprising how little hasbeen accomplished at Vienna for the last century. M. Bartsch is, however, aproud exception to any reproach arising from the want of indigenous talent. His name and performances alone are a host against such captiousimputations. [153] There wants only a few wiser heads, and more activespirits, in some of the upper circles of society, and Vienna might producegraphic works as splendid as they would be permanent. 

We will now leave the city for the country, or rather for the immediateneighbourhood of Vienna; and then, having, I think, sent you a good longVienna despatch, must hasten to take leave--not only of yourself, but ofthis metropolis. Whether I shall again write to you before I cross theRhine on my return home--is quite uncertain. Let me therefore make the mostof the present: which indeed is of a most unconscionable length. Turn, forone moment, to the opening of it--and note, there, some mention made ofcertain monasteries--one of which is situated at CLOSTERNEUBURG, the otherin the suburbs. I will first take you to the former--a pleasant drive ofabout nine miles from hence. Mr. Lewis, myself, and our attendantRohfritsch, hired a pair of horses for the day; and an hour and a halfbrought us to a good inn, or Restaurateur's immediately opposite themonastery in question. In our route thither, the Danube continued in sightall the way--which rendered the drive very pleasant. The river may be thebest part of a mile broad, near the monastery. The sight of the building inquestion was not very imposing, after those which I had seen in my route toVienna. The monastery is, in fact, an incomplete edifice; but thefoundations of the building are of an ancient date. [154] Having postponedour dinner to a comparatively late hour, I entered, as usual, upon thebusiness of the monastic visit. The court-yard, or quadrangle, had a meanappearance; but I saw enough of architectural splendour to convince methat, if this monastery had been completed according to the originaldesign, it would have ranked among the noblest in Austria. 

On obtaining admission, I enquired for the librarian, but was told that hehad not yet (two o'clock) risen from dinner. I apologised for theintrusion, and begged respectfully to be allowed to wait till he should bedisposed to leave the dining-room. The attendant, however, would admit ofno such arrangement; for he instantly disappeared, and returned with amonk, habited in the _Augustine_ garb, with a grave aspect and measuredstep. He might be somewhere about forty years of age. As he did notunderstand a word of French, it became necessary again to brush up myLatin. He begged I would follow him up stairs, and in the way to thelibrary, would not allow me to utter one word further in apology for mysupposed rudeness in bringing him thus abruptly from his "symposium. " Amore good natured man seemingly never opened his lips. Having reached thelibrary, the first thing he placed before me--as the boast and triumph oftheir establishment--was, a large paper copy (in quarto) of an edition ofthe _Hebrew Bible_, edited by I. Hahn, one of their fraternity, andpublished in 1806, 4 vols. [155] This was accomplished under the patronageof the Head of the Monastery, _Gaudentius Dunkler_: who was at the soleexpense of the paper and of procuring new Hebrew types. I threw my eye overthe dedication to the President, by Hahn, and saw the former with pleasurerecognised as the MODERN XIMENES. 

Having thanked the librarian for a sight of these volumes--of which thereis an impression in an octavo and cheap form, "for the use of youth"--Ibegged that I might have a sight of the _Incunabula Typographica_ of whichI had heard a high character. He smiled, and said that a few minutes wouldsuffice to undeceive me in this particular. Whereupon he placed beforeme ... Such a set of genuine, unsoiled, uncropt, _undoctored_, ponderousfolio tomes ... As verily caused my eyes to sparkle, and my heart to leap!They were, upon the whole---and for their number--_such_ copies as I hadnever before seen. You have here a very accurate account of them--taken, with the said copies "oculis subjectis. " _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, 1467. _Folio_. A very large and sound copy, in the original binding ofwood; but not free from a good deal of ms. Annotation. _Mentelin's GermanBible_; somewhat cropt, and in its second binding, but sound and perfect. _Supposed first German Bible_: a large and fine copy, in its first bindingof wood. _Apuleius_, 1469. Folio. The largest and finest copy which, Ithink, I ever beheld--with the exception of some slight worm holes at theend. _Livius_, 1470. Folio. 2 vols. _Printed by V. De Spira. _ In theoriginal binding. When I say that this copy appears to be full as fine asthat in the collection of Mr. Grenville, I bestow upon it the highestpossible commendation. _Plutarchi Vit. Parall. _ 2 vol. Folio. In the wellknown peculiarly shaped letter R. This copy, in one magnificent foliovolume, is the largest and finest I ever saw: but--eheu! a few leaves arewanting at the end. _Polybius. Lat. _ 1473. Folio. The printers areSweynheym and Pannartz. A large, fine copy; in the original binding ofwood: but four leaves at the end, with a strong foxy tint at top, areworm-eaten in the middle. 

Let me pursue this _amusing_ strain; for I have rarely, within so small aspace--in any monastic library I have hitherto visited--found such asprinkling of classical volumes. _Plinius Senior_, 1472. Folio. Printed byJenson. A prodigiously fine, large copy. A ms. Note, prefixed, says: "_hunclibrum comparuit Jacobus Pemperl pro viij t d. An [14]88, " &c. XenophontisCyropædia_. Lat. _Curante Philelpho_. With the date of the translation, 1467. A very fine copy of a well printed book. _Mammotrectus_, 1470. Folio. Printed by Schoeffher. A fine, white, tall copy; in its original woodenbinding. _Sti. Jeronimi Epistolæ_. 1470. Folio. Printed by Sweynheym andPannartz. In one volume: for size and condition probably unrivalled. In itsfirst binding of wood. _Gratiani Decretales_. 1472. Folio. Printed bySchoeffher. UPON VELLUM: in one enormous folio volume, and in an unrivalledstate of perfection. Perhaps, upon the whole, the finest vellum Schoeffherin existence. It is in its original binding, but some of the leaves areloose. _Opus Consiliorum I. De Calderi_. 1472. Idem Opus: _Anthonii deBurtrio_. 1472. Folio. Each work printed by _Adam Rot, Metensis_: a rareprinter, but of whose performances I have now seen a good number ofspecimens. These works are in one volume, and the present is a fine soundcopy. _Petri Lombardi Quat. Lib. Sentent_. Folio. This book is without nameof printer or date; but I should conjecture it to be executed inEggesteyn's largest gothic character, and, from a ms. Memorandum at theend, we are quite sure that the book was printed in 1471 at latest. Thememorandum is as follows: "_Iste liber est magistri Leonardi Fruman deHyersaw_, 1471. "

Such appeared to me to be the choicer, and more to be desiderated, volumesin the monastic library of Closterneuberg--which a visit of about a coupleof hours only enabled me to examine. I say "_desiderated_"--my goodfriend--because, on returning home, I revolved within myself what might bedone with propriety towards the _possession_ of them. [156] Having thankedthe worthy librarian, and expressed the very great satisfaction afforded meby a sight of the books in question--which had fully answered the highcharacter given of them--I returned to the auberge--dined with an increasedappetite in consequence of such a sight--and, picking up a "white stone, "as a lucky omen, being at the very extent of my _Bibliographical_, _Antiquarian_, and _Picturesque Tour_--returned to Vienna, to a late cup oftea; well satisfied, in every respect, with this most agreeable excursion. 

There now remains but one more subject to be noticed--and, then, farewellto this city--and hie for Manheim, Paris, and Old England! That one subjectis again connected with old books and an old Monastery ... Which indeed theopening of this letter leads you to anticipate. In that part of the vastsuburbs of Vienna which faces the north, and which is called theROSSAU--there stands a church and a _Capuchin convent_, of some twocenturies antiquity: the latter, now far gone to decay both in the buildingand revenues. The outer gate of the convent was opened--as at the Capuchinconvent which contains the imperial sepulchres--by a man with a long, bushy, and wiry beard ... Who could not speak one word of French. I wasalone, and a hackney coach had conveyed me thither. What was to be done. "_Bibliothecam hujusce Monasterii valdè videre cupio--licetne Domine?"_ Themonk answered my interrogatory with a sonorous "_imo_:" and the gatesclosing upon us, I found myself in the cloisters--where my attendant leftme, to seek the Principal and librarian. In two minutes, I observed acouple of portly Capuchins, pacing the pavement of the cloister, andapproaching me with rather a hurried step. On meeting, they saluted meformally--and assuming a cheerful air, begged to conduct me to the library. We were quickly within a room, of very moderate dimensions, divided intotwo compartments, of which the shelves were literally thronged and crammedwith books, lying in all directions, and completely covered with dust. Itwas impossible to make a selection from such an indigested farrago: but thebacks happening to be lettered, this afforded me considerable facility. Iwas told that the "WHOLE LIBRARY WAS AT MY DISPOSAL!"--which intelligencesurprised and somewhat staggered me. The monks seemed to enjoy myexpression of astonishment. 

I went to work quickly; and after upwards of an hour's severe rummaging, among uninteresting folios and quartos of medicine, canon-law, scholasticmetaphysics, and dry comments upon the decretals of Popes Boniface andGratian--it was rather from courtesy, than complete satisfaction, that Ipitched upon a few ... Of a miscellaneous description--begging to have theaccount, for which the money should be immediately forthcoming. Theyreplied that my wishes should be instantly attended to--but that it wouldbe necessary to consult together to reconsider the prices--and that aporter should be at the hotel of the _Crown of Hungary_, with the volumesselected--to await my final decision. As a _book-bill_ sent from amonastery, and written in the Latin language, may be considered _unique_ inour country--and a curiosity among the _Roxburghers _--I venture to sendyou a transcript of it: premising, that I retained the books, and paid downthe money: somewhere about _6l. 16s. 6d_. You will necessarily smile at theepithets bestowed upon your friend. 

 Plurimum Reverende, ac Venerande Domine!

 Mitto cum hisce, quos tibi seligere placuit, libros, eosdemque hic breviter describo, addito pretio, quo nobis conventum est; et quidem ex catalogo desumptos:

 Florins. Missale Rom. Pro Pataviensis Ecclæ ritu. 1494 5Missa defunctorum. 1499 3Val. Martialis Epigrammatum opus. 1475 25Xenophontis Apologia Socratis 3Epulario &c. 1De Conceptu et triplici Mariæ V. Candore 1ac demum Trithemii Annales Hirsaug. Et Aristotelis opera Edit. Sylburgii 35 ----- 73Quæ cuncta Tibi optime convenire, Teque valere perpetim precoret opto. 

P. JOAN. SARCANDER MRA. _Ord. Serv. B. M. V. _

This is the last _bibliomaniacal_ transaction in which I am likely to beengaged at Vienna; for, within thirty-six hours from hence, the post horseswill be in the archway of this hotel, with their heads turned towards OldEngland. In that direction my face will be also turned ... For the nextmonth or five weeks to come; being resolved upon spending the best part ofa fortnight of those five weeks, at _Ratisbon_, _Nuremberg_, and _Manheim_. You may therefore expect to hear from me again--certainly for the _last_time--at Manheim, just before crossing the Rhine for Chalons sur Marne, Metz, and Paris. I shall necessarily have but little leisure on theroad--for a journey of full 500 miles is to be encountered before I reachthe hither bank of the Rhine at Manheim. 

Farewell then to VIENNA:--a long, and perhaps final farewell! If I havearrived at a moment when this capital is comparatively thinned of itspopulation, and bereft of its courtly splendors--and if this city may besaid to be _now_ dull, compared with what its _winter_ gaieties will renderit--I shall nevertheless not have visited it IN VAIN. Books, whether asMSS. Or printed volumes, have been inspected by me with an earnestness andprofitable result--not exceeded by any previous similar application: whilethe company of men of worth, of talents, and of kindred tastes, hasrendered my social happiness complete. The best of hearts, and thefriendliest of dispositions, are surely to be found in the capital ofAustria. Farewell. It is almost the hour of midnight--and not a single noteof the harp or violin is to be heard in the streets. The moon shines softlyand sweetly. God bless you. 

[134] In Hartman Schedel's time, these suburbs seem to have been equally distinguished. "Habet (says he, speaking of Vienna) SUBURBIA MAXIMA et AMBICIOSA. " _Chron. Norimb. _ 1493. Fol. Xcviii. Rev. 

[135] Schedel's general description of the city of Vienna, which is equally brief and spirited, may deserve to be quoted. "VIENNA autem urbs magnifica ambitu murorum cingitur duorum millium passuum: habet fossa et vallo cincta: urbs autem fossatum magnum habet: undique aggerem prealtum: menia deinde spissa et sublimia frequentesque turres; et propugnacula ad bellum prompta. Ædes civium amplae et ornatae: structura solida et firma, altæ domorum facies magnificaeque visuntur. Unum id dedecori est, quod tecta plerumque ligna contegunt pauca lateres. Cetera edificia muro lapideo consistunt. Pictæ domus, et interius et exterius splendent. Ingressus cuiusque domum in ædes te principis venisse putabis. " _Ibid. _ This is not an exaggerated description. A little below, Schedel says "there is a monastery, called St. Jerome, (much after the fashion of our _Magdalen_) in which reformed Prostitutes are kept; and where, day and night, they sing hymns in the Teutonic dialect. If any of them are found relapsing into their former sinful ways, they are thrown headlong into the Danube. " "But (adds he) they lead, on the contrary, a chaste and holy life. "

[136] I suspect that the houses opposite the Palace are of comparatively recent construction. In _Pfeffel's Viva et Accurata Delineatio_ of the palaces and public buildings of Vienna, 1725 (oblong folio, ) the palace faces a wide place or square. Eighteen sculptured human figures, apparently of the size of life, there grace the topmost ballustrade in the copper-plate view of this truly magnificent residence. 

[137] [Recently however the number of _Restaurateurs_ has become considerable. ]

[138] In Hartmann Schedel's time, there appears to have been a very considerable traffic in wine at Vienna: "It is incredible (says he) what a brisk trade is stirring in the article of wine, [139] in this city. Twelve hundred horses are daily employed for the purposes of draught--either for the wine drank at Vienna, or sent up the Danube--against the stream--with amazing labour and difficulty. It is said that the wine cellars are frequently as deep _below_ the earth, as the houses are _above_ it. " Schedel goes on to describe the general appearance of the streets, and the neatness of the interiors, of the houses: adding, "that the windows are generally filled with stained glass, having iron-gratings without, where numerous birds sing in cages. The winter (remarks he) sets in here very severely. " _Chron. Norimb_. 1493, fol. Xcix. 

[139] The vintage about Vienna should seem to have been equally abundant a century after the above was written. In the year 1590, when a severe shock of earthquake threatened destruction to the tower of the Cathedral--and it was absolutely necessary to set about immediate repairs--the _liquid_ which was applied to make the most astringent _mortar_, was WINE: "l'on se servit de _vin, _ qui fut alors en abondance, pour faire le _plâtre_ de cette batise. " _Denkmahle der Baukunst und Bildneren des Mittelalters in dem Oesterreichischen Kaiserthume_. Germ. Fr. Part iii. P. 36. 1817-20. 

[140] There is a good sized (folded) view of the church, or rather chiefly of the south front of the spire, in the "_Vera et Accurata Delineatio Omnium Templorum et Cænobiorum_" of Vienna, published by Pfeffel in the year 1724, oblong folio. 

[141] This head has been published as the first plate in the third livraison of the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES of Vienna--accompanied by French and German letter-press. I have no hesitation in saying that, without the least national bias or individual partiality, the performance of Mr. Lewis--although much smaller, is by far the most _faithful_; nor is the engraving less superior, than the drawing, to the production of the Vienna artist. This latter is indeed faithless in design and coarse in execution. Beneath the head, in the original sculpture, and in the latter plate, we read the inscription M. A. P. 1313. It is no doubt an interesting specimen of sculpture of the period. 

[142] Vol. Ii. P. 312-313. 

[143] There is a large print of it (which I saw at Vienna) in the line manner, but very indifferently executed. But of the last, detached group, above described, there is a very fine print in the line manner. 

[144] See p. 245 ante. 

[145] As in that of the _Feast of Venus in the island of Cythera_: about eleven feet by seven. There is also another, of himself, in the Garden of Love--with his two wives--in the peculiarly powerful and voluptuous style of his pencil. The picture is about four feet long. His portrait of one of his wives, of the size of life, habited only in an ermine cloak at the back (of which the print is well known) is an extraordinary production ... As to colour and effect. 

[146] I am not sure whether any publication, connected with this extraordinary collection, has appeared since _Chrétien de Mechel's Catalogue des Tableaux de la Galerie Impériale et Royale de Vienne_; 1784, 8vo. : which contains, at the end, four folded copper-plates of the front elevations and ground plans of the Great and Little Belvederes. He divides his work into the _Venetian, Roman, Florentine, Bolognese_, and _Ancient and Modern Flemish Schools_: according to the different chambers or apartments. This catalogue is a mere straight-forward performance; presenting a formal description of the pictures, as to size and subject, but rarely indulging in warmth of commendation, and never in curious and learned research. The preface, from which I have gleaned the particulars of the History of the Collection, is sufficiently interesting. My friend M. Bartsch, if leisure and encouragement were afforded him, might produce a magnificent and instructive work--devoted to this very extraordinary collection. (Upon whom, NOW, shall this task devolve?!)

[147] See the OPPOSITE PLATE. 

[148] The truth is, not only fac-similes of these illuminations, but of the initial L, so warmly mentioned at page 292, were executed by M. Fendi, under the direction of my friend M. Bartsch, and dispatched to me from Vienna in the month of June 1820--but were lost on the road. 

[149] Lord Spencer has recently obtained a copy of this exquisitely printed book from the M'Carthy collection. See the _Ædes Althorpianæ;_ vol. Ii. P. 192. 

[150] [I annex, with no common gratification, a fac-simile of the Autograph of this most worthy man, [Illustration]]

[151] He has (_now_) been _dead_ several years. 

[152] ECKHEL'S work upon these gems, in 1788, folio, is well known. The apotheosis of Augustus, in this collection, is considered as an unrivalled specimen of art, upon sardonyx. I regretted much not to have seen these gems, but the floor of the room in which they are preserved was taken up, and the keeper from home. 

[153] It will be only necessary to mention--for the establishment of this fact--the ENGRAVED WORKS alone of M. Bartsch, from masters of every period, and of every school, amounting to 505 in number: an almost incredible effort, when we consider that their author has scarcely yet passed his grand climacteric. His _Peintre Graveur_ is a literary performance, in the graphic department, of really solid merit and utility. The record of the achievements of M. Bartsch has been perfected by the most affectionate and grateful of all hands--those of his son, _Frederic de Bartsch_--in an octavo volume, which bears the following title, and which has the portrait (but not a striking resemblance) of the father prefixed:--"_Catalogue des Estampes de_ J. ADAM de BARTSCH, _Chevalier de l'Ordre de Léopold, Conseiller aulique et Premier Garde de la Bibl. Imp. Et Roy. De la Cour, Membre de l'Academie des Beaux Arts de Vienne_. " 1818. 8vo. Pp. 165. There is a modest and sensible preface by the son--in which we are informed that the catalogue was not originally compiled for the purpose of making it public. 

 The following is a fac-simile of the Autograph of this celebrated graphical Critic and Artist. 

 [Illustration]

[154] The MONASTERY of CLOSTERNEUBURG, or Nevenburg, or Nuenburg, or Newburg, or Neunburg--is supposed to have been built by Leopold the Pious in the year 1114. It was of the order of St. Augustin. They possess (at the monastery, it should seem) a very valuable chronicle, of the XIIth century, upon vellum--devoted to the history of the establishment; but unluckily defective at the beginning and end. It is supposed to have been written by the head of the monastery, for the time being. It is continued by a contemporaneous hand, down to the middle of the fourteenth century. They preserve also, at Closterneuburg, a Necrology--of five hundred years--down to the year 1721. "Inter cæteros præstantes veteres codices manuscriptos, quos INSIGNIS BIBLIOTHECA CLAUSTRO-NEOBURGENSIS servat, est pervetus inclytæ ejusdem canoniæ Necrologium, ante annos quingentos in membranis elegantissimè manu exaratum, et a posteriorum temporum auctoribus continuatum. " _Script. Rer. Austriacar. Cura Pez. _ 1721. Vol. 1. Col. 435, 494. 

[155] The librarian, MAXIMILIAN FISCHER, informed me the quarto copies were rare, for that only 400 were printed. The octavo copies are not so, but they do not contain all the marginal references which are in the quarto impressions. 

[156] In fact, I wrote a letter to the librarian, the day after my visit, proposing to give 2000 florins in specie for the volumes above described. My request was answered by the following polite, and certainly most discreet and commendable reply: "D.... Domine! Litteris a Te 15. Sept. Scriptis et 16 Sept. A me receptis, de Tuo desiderio nonnullos bibliothecæ nostræ libros pro pecunia acquirendi, me certiorem reddidisti; ast mihi respondendum venit, quod tuis votis obtemperare non possim. Copia horum librorum ad cimelium bibliothecæ Claustroneoburgensis merito refertur, et maxima sunt in æstimatione apud omnes confratres meos; porro, lege civili cautum est, ne libri et res rariores Abbatiarum divenderentur. Si unum aliumve horum, ceu duplicatum, invenissem, pro æquissimo pretio in signum venerationis transmisissem. 

 "Ad alia, si præstare possem, officia, me paratissimum invenies, simulque Te obsecro, me æstimatorem tui sincerrimum reputes, hinc me in ulteriorem recordationem commendo, ac dignum me æstimes quod nominare me possem, ... Dominationis Tuæ _E Canonia Claustroneoburgensi_, addictissimum 17 _Septbr_ 1818. MAXIMILIANUM FISCHER. Can. Reg. Bibliothec. Et Archivar. "

_Supplement_. 

RATISBON, NUREMBERG, MANHEIM. 

_Supplement_. 

Having found it impracticable to write to my friend--on the route fromVienna to Paris, and from thence to London--the reader is here presentedwith a few SUPPLEMENTAL PARTICULARS with which that route furnished me; andwhich, I presume to think, will not be considered either misplaced oruninteresting. They are arranged quite in the manner of MEMORANDA, orheads: not unaccompanied with a regret that the limits of this work forbida more extended detail. I shall immediately, therefore, conduct the readerfrom Vienna to

RATISBON. 

I left VIENNA, with my travelling companion, within two days after writingthe last letter, dated from that place--upon a beautiful September morning. But ere we had reached _St. Pölten_, the face of the heavens was changed, and heavy rain accompanied us till we got to Mölk, where we slept: nothowever before I had written a note to the worthy _Benedictine Fraternity_at the monastery--professing my intention of breakfasting with them thenext morning. This self-invitation was joyfully accepted, and the valet, who returned with the written answer, told me that it was a high day offeasting and merry-making at the monastery--and that he had left the worthyMonks in the plenitude of their social banquet. We were much gratified thenext morning, not only by the choice and excellence of the breakfast, butby the friendliness of our reception. So simple are manners here, that, ingoing up the hill, towards the monastery, we met the worthy Vice Principal, Pallas, habited in his black gown--returning from a baker's shop, where hehad been to bespeak the best bread. I was glad to renew my acquaintancewith the Abbé Strattman, and again solicited permission for Mr. Lewis totake the portrait of so eminent a bibliographer. But in vain: the Abbéanswering, with rather a melancholy and mysterious air, that "the world waslost to him, and himself to the world. "

We parted--with pain on both sides; and on the same evening slept, where wehad stopt in our route to Vienna, at _Lintz_. The next morning (Sunday) westarted betimes to breakfast at _Efferding_. Our route lay chiefly alongthe banks of the Danube ... Under hanging woods on one side, with villagesand villas on the other. The fog hung heavily about us; and we could catchbut partial and unsatisfactory glimpses of that scenery, which, whenlightened by a warm sunshine, must be perfectly romantic. At Efferding ourcarriage and luggage were examined, while we breakfasted. The day nowbrightened up, and nothing but sunshine and "the song of earliest birds"accompanied us to _Sigharding_, --the next post town. Hence to _Scharding_, where we dined, and to _Fürsternell_, where we supped and slept. The innwas crowded by country people below, but we got excellent quarters in theattics; and were regaled with peaches, after supper, which might have viedwith those out of the Imperial garden at Vienna. We arose betimes, andbreakfasted at _Vilshofen_--and having lost sight of the Danube, since weleft Efferding, we were here glad to come again in view of it: andespecially to find it accompany us a good hundred miles of our route, tillwe reached _Ratisbon_. 

_Straubing_, where we dined--and which is within two posts of Ratisbon--isa very considerable town. The Danube washes parts of its suburbs. As theday was uncommonly serene and mild, even to occasional sultriness, and aswe were in excellent time for reaching Ratisbon that evening, we devoted anhour or two to rambling in this town. Mr. Lewis made sketches, and Istrolled into churches, and made enquiries after booksellers shops, andpossessors of old books: but with very little success. A fine hard road, aslevel as a bowling green, carries you within an hour to _Pfätter_--the posttown between Straubing and Ratisbon--and almost twice that distance bringsyou to the latter place. 

It was dark when we entered Ratisbon, and having been recommended to thehotel of the _Agneau Blanc_ we drove thither, and alighted ... Close to thevery banks of the Danube--and heard the roar of its rapid stream, turningseveral mills, close as it were to our very ears. The master of the hotel, whose name is _Cramer_, and who talked French very readily, received uswith peculiar courtesy; and, on demanding the best situated room in thehouse, we were conducted on the second floor, to the chamber which had beenoccupied, only two or three days before, by the Emperor of Austria himself, on his way to _Aix-la-Chapelle_. The next morning was a morning of wonderto us. Our sitting-room, which was a very lantern, from the number ofwindows, gave us a view of the rushing stream of the Danube, of a portionof the bridge over it, of some beautifully undulating and vine-coveredhills, in the distance, on the opposite side--and, lower down the stream, of the town-walls and water-mills, of which latter we had heard thestunning sounds on our arrival. [157] The whole had a singularly novel andpleasing appearance. 

But if the sitting room was thus productive of gratification, the veryfirst walk I took in the streets was productive of still greater. Onleaving the inn, and turning to the left, up a narrow street, I came inview of a house ... Upon the walls of which were painted, full threehundred years ago, the figures of _Goliath and David_. The former could bescarcely less than twenty feet high: the latter, who was probably aboutone-third of that height, was represented as if about to cast the stonefrom the sling. The costume of Goliath marked the period when he was thusrepresented;[158] and I must say, considering the time that has elapsedsince that representation, that he is yet a fine, vigorous, andfresh-looking fellow. I continued onwards, now to the right, and afterwardsto the left, without knowing a single step of the route. An old, but shortsquare gothic tower--upon one of the four sides of which was a curious oldclock, supported by human figures--immediately caught my attention. The_Town Hall_ was large and imposing; but the _Cathedral_, surrounded bybooths--it being fair-time--was, of course, the great object of myattention. In short, I saw enough within an hour to convince me, that I wasvisiting a large, curious, and well-peopled town; replete with antiquities, and including several of the time of the Romans, to whom it was necessarilya very important station. Ratisbon is said to contain a population of about20, 000 souls. 

The Cathedral can boast of little antiquity. It is almost a building ofyesterday; yet it is large, richly ornamented on the outside, especially onthe west, between the towers--and is considered one of the nobleststructures of the kind in Bavaria. [159] The interior wants that decisiveeffect which simplicity produces. It is too much broken into parts, andcovered with monuments of a very heterogeneous description. Near it Itraced the cloisters of an old convent or monastery of some kind, nowdemolished, which could not be less than five hundred years old. Thestreets of Ratisbon are generally picturesque, as well from theirundulating forms, as from the antiquity of a great number of the houses. The modern parts of the town are handsome, and there is a pleasantinter-mixture of trees and grass plats in some of these more recentportions. There are some pleasing public walks, after the English fashion;and a public garden, where a colossal sphinx, erected by the latephilosopher _Gleichen_, has a very imposing appearance. Here is also anobelisk erected to the memory of Gleichen himself, the founder of thesegardens; and a monument to the memory of Keplar, the astronomer; whichlatter was luckily spared in the assault of this town by the French in1809. 

But these are, comparatively, every day objects. A much more interestingsource of observation, to my mind, were the very few existing relics of theonce celebrated monastery of ST. EMMERAM--and a great portion of theremains of another old monastery, called ST. JAMES--which latter may indeedbe designated the _College of the Jacobites_; as the few members whoinhabit it were the followers of the house and fortunes of the Pretender, James Stuart. The monastery, or _Abbey of St. Emmeram_ was one of the mostcelebrated throughout Europe; and I suspect that its library, both of MSS. And printed books, was among the principal causes of its celebrity. [160]The intelligent and truly obliging Mr. A. Kraemer, librarian to the Princeof Tour and Taxis, accompanied me in my visit to the very few existingremains of St. Emmeram--which indeed are incorporated, as it were, with thechurch close to the palace or residence of the Prince. As I walked alongthe corridors of this latter building, after having examined the Prince'slibrary, and taken notes of a few of the rarer or more beautiful books, Icould look through the windows into the body of the church itself. It isdifficult to describe this religious edifice, and still more so to knowwhat portions belonged to the old monastery. I saw a stone chair--rude, massive, and almost shapeless--in which _Adam_ might have sat ... If datesare to be judged of by the barbarism of form. Something like a crypt, ofwhich the further part was uncovered--reminded me of portions of the cryptat _Freysing_; and among the old monuments belonging to the abbey, was oneof _Queen Hemma_, wife of Ludovic, King of Bavaria: a great benefactress, who was buried there in 876. The figure, which was whole-length, and of thesize of life, was painted; and might be of the fourteenth century. There isanother monument, of _Warmundus, Count of Wasserburg_, who was buried in1001. These monuments have been lithographised, from the drawings ofQuaglio, in the "_Denkmahle der Baukunst des Mittelalters im KoenigreicheBaiern_, " 1816. Folio. 

Of all interesting objects of architectural antiquity in Ratisbon, nonestruck me so forcibly--and indeed none is in itself so curious andsingular--as the MONASTERY OF ST. JAMES, before slightly alluded to. Thefront of that portion of it, connected with the church, should seem to beof an extremely remote antiquity. It is the ornaments, or style ofarchitecture, which give it this character of antiquity. The ornaments, which are on each side of the door way, or porch, are quite extraordinary, and appear as if the building had been erected by Mexicans or Hindoos. 

Quaglio has made a drawing, and published a lithographic print of the wholeof this entrance. I had conjectured the building to be of the twelfthcentury, and was pleased to have my conjecture confirmed by the assuranceof one of the members of the college (either Mr. Richardson or Mr. Sharp)that the foundations of the building were laid in the middle of the XIIthcentury; and that, about twenty miles off, down the Danube, there wasanother monastery, now in ruins, called _Mosburg_, if I mistake not--whichwas built about the same period, and which exhibited precisely the samestyle of architecture. 

But if the entire college, with the church, cloisters, sitting rooms, anddormitories, was productive of so much gratification, the _contents_ ofthese rooms, including the _members_ themselves, were productive of yetgreater. To begin with the Head, or President, DR. C. ARBUTHNOT: one of thefinest and healthiest looking old gentlemen I ever beheld--in hiseighty-second year. I should however premise, that the members of thiscollege--only six or eight in number, and attached to the interests of theStuarts--have been settled here almost from their infancy: some havingarrived at seven, and others at twelve, years of age. Their method ofspeaking their _own_ language is very singular; and rather difficult ofcomprehension. Nor is the _French_, spoken by them, of much betterpronunciation. Of manners the most simple, and apparently of principles themost pure, they seem to be strangers to those wants and wishes whichfrequently agitate a more numerous and polished establishment; and to move, as it were, from the cradle to the grave ... 

 "The world forgetting, by the world forgot. "

As soon as the present Head ceases to exist, [161] the society is to bedissolved--and the building to be demolished. [162] I own that thisintelligence, furnished me by one of the members, gave a melancholy and yetmore interesting air to every object which I saw, and to every Member withwhom I conversed. The society is of the Benedictine order, and there is alarge whole length portrait, in the upper cloisters, or rather corridor, ofST. BENEDICT--with the emphatic inscription of "PATER MONACHORUM. " The_library_ was carefully visited by me, and a great number of volumesinspected. The local is small and unpretending: a mere corridor, communicating with a tolerably good sized room, in the middle, at rightangles. I saw a few _hiatuses_, which had been caused by disposing of thevolumes, that had _filled_ them, to the cabinet in St. James's Place. Infact, Mr. Horn--so distinguished for his bibliographical _trouvailles_--hadbeen either himself a _member_ of this College, or had had a _brother_, socircumstanced, who foraged for him. What remained was, comparatively, merechaff: and yet I contrived to find a pretty ample sprinkling of Greek andLatin Philosophy, printed and published at Paris by _Gourmont_, _Colinæus_, and the _Stephens_, in the first half of the sixteenth century. There werealso some most beautifully-conditioned Hebrew books, printed by the_Stephen family_;--and having turned the bottoms of those books outwards, which I thought it might be possible to purchase, I requested the librarianto consider of the matter; who, himself apparently consenting, informed me, on the following morning, that, on a consultation held with the othermembers, it was deemed advisable not to part with any more of their books. I do not suppose that the whole would bring 250l. Beneath a well knownhammer in Pall-Mall. 

The PUBLIC LIBRARY was also carefully visited. It is a strange, rambling, but not wholly uninteresting place--although the collection is ratherbarbarously miscellaneous. I saw more remains of Roman antiquities of theusual character of rings, spear-heads, lachrymatories, &c. --than of rareand curious old books: but, among the latter, I duly noticed _Mentelin'sedition of the first German Bible_. No funds are applied to the increase ofthis collection; and the books, in an upper and lower room, seem to liedesolate and forlorn, as if rarely visited--and yet more rarely opened. Compared with the celebrated public libraries in France, Bavaria, andAustria, this of RATISBON is ... Almost a reproach to the municipalauthorities of the place. I cannot however take leave of the book-theme, orof Ratisbon--without mentioning, in terms of unfeigned sincerity, theobligations I was under to M. AUGUSTUS KRAEMER, the librarian of the Princeof Tour and Taxis; who not only satisfied, but even anticipated, my wishes, in every thing connected with antiquities. There is a friendliness ofdisposition, a mildness of manner, and pleasantness both of mien and ofconversation, about this gentleman, which render his society extremelyengaging. Upon the whole, although I absolutely gained nothing in the wayof book-acquisitions, during my residence at Ratisbon, I have not passedthree pleasanter days in any town in Bavaria than those which were spenthere. It is a place richly deserving of the minute attention of theantiquary; and the country, on the opposite side of the Danube, presentssome genuine features of picturesque beauty. Nor were the civility, goodfare, and reasonable charges of the _Agneau Blanc_, among the mostinsignificant comforts attending our residence at Ratisbon. 

We left that town a little after mid-day, intending to sleep the sameevening at NEUMARKT, within two stages of Nuremberg. About an English milefrom Ratisbon, the road rises to a considerable elevation, whence youobtain a fine and interesting view of that city--with the Danube encirclingits base like a belt. From this eminence I looked, for the last time, uponthat magnificent river--which, with very few exceptions, had kept in viewthe whole way from Vienna: a distance of about two hundred and sixtyEnglish miles. I learnt that an aquatic excursion, from Ulm to Ratisbon, was one of the pleasantest schemes or parties of pleasure, imaginable--andthat the English were extremely partial to it. Our faces were nowresolutely turned towards Nuremberg; while a fine day, and a tolerably goodroad, made us insensible of any inconvenience which might otherwise haveresulted from a journey of nine German miles. 

We reached _Neumarkt_ about night-fall, and got into very excellentquarters. The rooms of the inn which we occupied had been filled by theDuke of Wellington and Lord and Lady Castlereagh on their journey toCongress in the winter of 1814. The master of the inn related to us asingular anecdote respecting the Duke. On hearing of his arrival, theinhabitants of the place flocked round the inn, and the next morning theDuke found the _tops of his boots half cut away_--from the desire which thepeople expressed of having "some memorial of the great captain of theage. "[163] No other, or more feasible plan presented itself, than that ofmaking interest with his Grace's groom--when the boots were taken down tobe cleaned on the morning following his arrival. Perhaps the Duke's _coat_, had it been seen, might have shared the same fate. 

The morning gave me an opportunity of examining the town of _Neumarkt_, which is surrounded by a wall, in the _inner_ side of which is a sort ofcovered corridor (now in a state of great decay) running entirely round thetown. At different stations there are wooden steps for the purpose ofascent and descent. In a churchyard, I was startled by the representationof the _Agony in the Garden_ (so often mentioned in this Tour) which wasexecuted in stone, and coloured after the life, and which had everyappearance of _reality_. I stumbled upon it, unawares: and confess that Ihad never before witnessed so startling a representation of the subject. Having quitted Neumarkt, after breakfast, it remained only to change horsesat _Feucht_, and afterwards to dine at Nuremberg. Of all cities which I hadwished to see, before and since quitting England, NUREMBERG was that uponwhich my heart seemed to be the most fixed. [164] It had been the nursery ofthe Fine Arts in Bavaria; one of the favourite residences of Maximilian theGreat; the seat of learning and the abode equally of commerce and of wealthduring the sixteenth century. It was here too, that ALBERT DURER--perhapsthe most extraordinary genius of his age--lived and died: and here I learntthat his tombstone, and the house in which he resided, were still to beseen. 

The first view of the spires and turretted walls of Nuremberg[165] filledme with a sensation which it is difficult to describe. Within about fiveEnglish miles of it, just as we were about to run down the last descent, from the bottom of which it is perfectly level to the very gates of thecity--we discovered a group of peasants, chiefly female, busied in carryingbarrows, apparently of fire wood, towards the town. On passing them, theattention of Mr. Lewis was caught by one female countenance inparticular--so distinguished by a sweetness and benevolence ofexpression--that we requested the postilion to stop, that we might learnsome particulars respecting this young woman, and the mode of life whichshe followed. She was without stockings; of a strong muscular form, and herface was half buried beneath a large flapping straw hat. We learnt that herparents were engaged in making black lead pencils (a flourishing branch ofcommerce, at this moment, at Nuremberg) for the wholesale dealers; and theywere so poor, that she was glad to get a _florin_ by conveying wood (as wethen saw her) four miles to Nuremberg. 

It was market-day when we entered Nuremberg, about four o'clock. The inn towhich we had been recommended, proved an excellent one: civility, cleanliness, good fare, and reasonable charges--these form the tests of theexcellence of the _Cheval Rouge_ at Nuremberg. In our route thither, wepassed the two churches of St. _Lawrence_ and St. _Sebald_, of which theformer is the largest--and indeed principal place of worship in the town. We also passed through the market-place, wherein are several gothicbuildings--more elaborate in ornament than graceful in form or curious fromantiquity. The whole square, however, was extremely interesting, and fullof population and bustle. The town indeed is computed to contain 30, 000inhabitants. We noticed, on the outsides of the houses, large paintings, asat Ratisbon, of gigantic figures: and every street seemed to promise freshgratification, as we descended one and ascended another. 

My first object, on settling at the hotel, was to seek out the PUBLICLIBRARY, and to obtain an inspection of some of those volumes which hadexercised the pen of DE MURR, in his Latin _Memoirs of the Public Libraryof Nuremberg_. I was now also in the birthplace of PANZER--another, andinfinitely more distinguished bibliographer, --whose _Typographical Annalsof Europe_ will for ever render his memory as dear to other towns as toNuremberg. In short, when I viewed the _Citadel_ of this place--andwitnessed, in my perambulations about the town, so many curious specimensof gothic architecture, I could only express my surprise and regret thatmore substantial justice had not been rendered to so interesting a spot. Ipurchased every thing I could lay my hand upon, connected with the_published antiquities_ of the town; but that "every thing" wassufficiently scanty and unsatisfactory. 

Before, however, I make mention of the Public Library, it may be as wellbriefly to notice the two churches--- _St. Sebald_ and _St. Lawrence_. Theformer was within a stone's throw of our inn. Above the door of the westernfront, is a remarkably fine crucifix of wood--placed, however, in too deepa recess--said to be by _Veit Stoss_. The head is of a very fine form, andthe countenance has an expression of the most acute and intense feeling. Acrown of thorns is twisted round the brow. But this figure, as well as thewhole of the outside and inside of the church, stands in great need ofbeing repaired. The towers are low, with insignificant turrets: the latterevidently a later erection--probably at the commencement of the sixteenthcentury. The eastern extremity, as well indeed as the aisles, is surroundedby buttresses; and the sharp-pointed, or lancet windows, seem to bespeakthe fourteenth, if not the thirteenth century. The great "wonder" of theinterior, is the _Shrine of the Saint_, [166] (to whom the church isdedicated, ) of which the greater part is silver. At the time of my viewingit, it was in a disjointed state--parts of it having been taken to pieces, for repair: but from Geisler's exquisite little engraving, I shouldpronounce it to be second to few specimens of similar art in Europe. Thefigures do not exceed two feet in height, and the extreme elevation of theshrine may be about eight feet. Nor has Geisler's almost equally exquisitelittle engraving of the richly carved gothic _font_ in this church, lessclaim upon the admiration of the connoisseur. 

The mother church, or Cathedral of _St. Lawrence_, is much larger, andportions of it may be of the latter end of the thirteenth century. Theprincipal entrance presents us with an elaborate door-way--perhaps of thefourteenth century--with the sculpture divided into several compartments, as at Rouen, Strasbourg, and other earlier edifices. There is a poverty inthe two towers, both from their size, and the meagerness of the windows;but the slim spires at the summit, are, doubtless, nearly of a coeval datewith that which supports them. The bottom of the large circular, ormarygold window, is injured in its effect by a gothic balustrade of a laterperiod. The interior of this church has certainly nothing very commandingor striking, on the score of architectural grandeur or beauty; but thereare some painted glass-windows--especially by _Volkmar_---which aredeserving of particular attention. Nuremberg has one advantage over manypopulous towns; its public buildings are not choked up by narrow streets:and I hardly know an edifice of distinction, round which the spectator maynot walk with perfect ease, and obtain a view of every portion which he isdesirous of examining. _The Fraüenkerche_, or the _church of St. Mary_, inthe market-place, has a very singular construction in its western front. Adouble arched door-way, terminated by an arch at the top, and surmounted bya curious triangular projection from the main building, has rather an odd, than a beautiful effect. Above, terminating in an apex--surmounted by asmall turret, are five rows of gothic niches, of which the extremities, ateach end, narrow--in the fashion of steps, gradually--from the topmost ofwhich range or rows of niches, the turret rises perpendicularly. It is asmall edifice, and has been recently doomed to make a very distinguishedfigure in the imposing lithographic print of Quaglio. [167] The interior ofthis church is not less singular, as may be seen in the print publishedabout sixty years ago, and yet faithful to its present appearance. 

I know not how it was, but I omitted to notice the ci-devant church of_Ste. Claire_, where there is said to be the most ancient stained glasswindow which exists--that is, of the middle of the thirteenth century; nordid I obtain a sight of the seven pillars of _Adam Kraft_, designating theseven points or stations of the Passion of our Saviour. But in the_Rath-hauz Platz_, in the way to the public library, I used to look withdelight--almost every morning of the four days which I spent atNuremberg--at the fragments of gothic architecture, to the right and left, that presented themselves; and among these, none caught my eye and pleasedmy taste, so fully, as the little hexagonal gothic window, which hassculptured subjects beneath the mullions, and which was attached to the_Pfarrhof_, or clergyman's residence, of St. Sebald. If ever Mr. Blore'spencil should be exercised in this magical city for gothic art, I am quitepersuaded that _this window_ will be one of the subjects upon which itspowers will be most successfully employed. 

A little beyond, in a very handsome square, called St. Giles's Place, livedthe famous ANTHONY KOBERGER; the first who introduced the art of printinginto Nuremberg--and from whose press, more Bibles, Councils, Decretals, Chronicles, and scholastic works, have proceeded than probably from anyother press in Europe. Koberger was a magnificent printer, using always abold, rich, gothic letter--and his first book, _Comestorium Vitiorum_, bears the date of 1470. [168] They shew the house, in this square, which heis said to have occupied; but which I rather suspect was built by hisnephew JOHN KOBERGER, who was the son of Sebaldus Koberger, and who carriedon a yet more successful business than his uncle. Not fewer than seventeenpresses were kept in constant employ by him, and he is said to have beenengaged in a correspondence with almost every printer and bookseller inEurope. It was my good fortune to purchase an original bronze head of him, of _Messrs. Frauenholz_ and _Co_. , one of the most respectable andsubstantial houses, in the print trade, upon the Continent. This head isstruck upon a circular bronze of about seven inches in diameter, bearingthe following incription: JOANNES KOBERGER ... SEIN. ALTR. Xxxx: that is, John Koberger, in the fortieth year of his age. The head, singularlyenough, is _laureated;_ and in the upper part of it are two capitalletters, of which the top parts resemble a B or D--and F or E. It is a finesolid piece of workmanship, and is full of individuality of character. Froman old ms. Inscription at the back, the original should appear to have diedin 1522. I was of course too much interested in the history of theKobergers, not to ask permission, to examine the premises from which somuch learning and piety had once issued to the public; and I could not helpbeing struck with at least the _space_ which these premises occupied. Atthe end of a yard, was a small chapel, which formerly was, doubtless, theprinting office or drying room of the Kobergers. The interior of the housewas now so completely devoted to other uses, that one could identifynothing. The church of St. Giles, in this place, is scarcely little morethan a century old; as a print of it, of the date of 1689, represents thebuilding to be not yet complete. 

I shall now conduct the reader at once to the PUBLIC LIBRARY; premising, that it occupies the very situation which it has held since the first bookwas deposited in it. This is very rarely the case abroad. It is, in fact, asmall gothic quadrangle, with the windows modernised; and was formerly aconvent of _Dominicans_. M. RANNER, the public librarian, (with whom--as hewas unable to speak French, and myself equally unable to speak his ownlanguage--I conversed in the Latin tongue) assured me that there wasanciently a printing press here--conducted by the Dominicans--who wereresolved to print no book but what was the production of one of their ownorder. I have great doubts about this fact, and expressed the same to M. Ranner; adding, that I had never seen a book so printed; The librarian, however, reiterated his assertion, and said that the monastery was built inthe eleventh century. There is certainly no visible portion of it olderthan the beginning of the fifteenth century. The library itself is on thefirst floor, and fills two rooms, running parallel with each other; both ofthem sufficiently dismal and uninviting. It is said to contain 45, 000volumes; but I much question whether there be half that number. There aresome precious MSS. Of which M. Ranner has published a catalogue in twooctavo volumes, in the Latin language, in a manner extremely creditable tohimself, and such as to render De Murr's labour upon the same subjectsalmost useless. Among these MSS. I was shewn one in the Hebrew language--ofthe eleventh or twelfth century--with very singular marginal illuminations, as grotesques or capriccios; in which the figures, whether human beings, monsters, or animals, were made out by _lines composed of Hebrewcharacters_, considered to be a gloss upon the text. 

As to the _printed books_ of an early date, they are few andunimportant--if the _subject_ of them be exclusively considered. There is awoeful want of _classics_, and even of useful literary performances. Here, however, I saw the far-famed _I. De Turrecremata Meditationes_ of 1467, briefly described by De Murr; of which, I believe, only two other copiesare known to exist--namely, one in the Imperial library at Vienna, [169] andthe other in the collection of Earl Spencer. It is an exceedingly preciousbook to the typographical antiquary, inasmuch as it is supposed to be thefirst production of the press of _Ulric Han_. The copy in question has theplates coloured; and, singularly enough, is bound up in a wooden cover with_Honorius de Imagine Mundi_, printed by Koberger, and the _Hexameron_ of_Ambrosius_, printed by Schuzler in 1472. It is, however, a clean, soundcopy; but cut down to the size of the volumes with which it is bound. Hereis the _Boniface_ of 1465, by Fust, UPON VELLUM: with a large space on therectos of the second and third leaves, purposely left for the insertion ofms. Or some subsequent correction. The _Durandus of_ 1459 has the firstcapital letter stamped with red and blue, like the smaller capital initialsin the Psalter of 1457. In this first capital initial, the blue is theouter portion of the letter. The _German Bible by Mentelin_ is perfect; butwretchedly cropt, and dirty even to dinginess. Here is a very fine largegenuine copy of _Jenson's Quintilian_ of 1471. Of the _Epistles of St. Jerom_, here are the early editions by _Mentelin_ and _Sweynheym_ and_Pannartz_; the latter, of the date of 1470: a fine, large copy--but notfree from ms. Annotations. 

More precious, however, in the estimation of the criticalbibliographer--than either, or the whole, of the preceding volumes--is thevery rare edition of the _Decameron of Boccaccio_, of the date of 1472, printed at _Mantua, by A. De Michaelibus_. [170] Such a copy as that in thepublic library at Nuremberg, is in all probability unparalleled: it being, in every respect, what a perfect copy should be--white, large, and in itspristine binding. A singular coincidence took place, while I was examiningthis extraordinarily rare book. M. Lechner, the bookseller, of whom I shallhave occasion to speak again, brought me a letter, directed to his ownhouse, from Earl Spencer. In that letter, his lordship requested me to makea particular collation of the edition of Boccaccio--with which I wasoccupied at the _very moment of receiving it_. Of course, upon everyaccount, that collation was made. Upon its completion, and asking M. Rannerwhether any consideration would induce the curators of the library to partwith this volume, the worthy librarian shouted aloud!... Adding, that, "notmany weeks before, an English gentleman had offered the sum of sixty louisd'or for it, --but not _twice_ that sum could be taken!... And in fact thebook must never leave its present quarters--no ... Not even for the noblecollection in behalf of which I pleaded so earnestly. " M. Ranner's mannerwas so positive, and his voice so sonorous, --that I dreaded the submissionof any contre-projet ... And accordingly left him in the full andunmolested enjoyment of his beloved Decameron printed by _Adam deMichaelibus_. 

M. Ranner shewed me a sound, fair copy of the _first Florentine Homer_ of1488; but cropt, with red edges to the leaves. But I was most pleased witha sort of cupboard, or closet-fashioned recess, filled with the first andsubsequent editions of all the pieces written by _Melancthon_, I was toldthat there were more than eight hundred of such pieces. These, and asimilar collection from the pens of _Luther_ and _Eckuis_ at Landshut, [171]would, as I conceive, be invaluable repertories for the _History of theReformation upon the Continent_. Although I examined many shelves of books, for two successive days, in the Public Library of Nuremberg, I am notconscious of having found any thing more deserving of detail than what hasbeen already submitted to the reader. 

Of all edifices, more especially deserving of being visited at Nuremberg, the CITADEL is doubtless the most curious and ancient, as well as the mostremarkable. It rises to a considerable height, close upon the outer wallsof the town, within about a stone's throw of the end of _Albrecht DurerStrasse_--or the street where ALBERT DURER lived--and whose house is notonly yet in existence, but still the object of attraction and venerationwith every visitor of taste, from whatever part of the world he may chanceto come. The street running down, is the street called (as before observed)after Albert Durer's own name; and the _well_, seen about the middle of it, is a specimen of those wells--built of stone--which are very common in thestreets of Nuremberg. The house of Albert Durer is now in a very wretched, and even unsafe condition. The upper part is supposed to have been hisstudy. The interior is so altered from its original disposition, as topresent little or nothing satisfactory to the antiquary. It would bedifficult to say how many coats of whitewash have been bestowed upon therooms, since the time when they were tenanted by the great character inquestion. 

Passing through this street, therefore, you turn to the right, and continueonwards, up a pretty smart ascent; when the entrance to the citadel, by theside of a low wall--in front of an old tower--presents itself to yourattention. It was before breakfast that my companion and self visited thisinteresting interior, over every part of which we were conducted by a mostloquacious _cicerone_, who spoke the French language very fluently, and whowas pleased to express his extreme gratification upon finding that hisvisitors were _Englishmen_. The tower, of the exterior of which there is avery indifferent engraving in the _Singularia Norimbergensia_, and theadjoining chapel, may be each of the thirteenth century; but the tombstoneof the founder of the monastery, upon the site of which the present Citadelwas built, bears the date of 1296. This tombstone is very perfect; lying ina loose, unconnected manner, as you enter the chapel:--the chapel itselfhaving a crypt-like appearance. This latter is very small. 

From the suite of apartments in the older parts of the Citadel, there is amost extensive and uninterrupted view of the surrounding country, which israther flat. At the distance of about nine miles, the town of _Furth_(Furta) looks as if it were within an hour's walk; and I should think thatthe height of the chambers, (from which we enjoyed this view, ) to the levelground of the adjacent meadows, could be scarcely less than three hundredfeet. In these chambers, there is a little world of curiosity for theantiquary: and yet it was but too palpable that very many of its moreprecious treasures had been transported to Munich. In the time ofMaximilian II. , when Nuremberg may be supposed to have been in the veryheight of its glory, this Citadel must have been worth a pilgrimage of manyscore miles to have visited. The ornaments which remain are chieflypictures; of which several are exceedingly precious. Our guide hastened toshow us the celebrated two Venuses of _Lucas Cranach_, which are mostcarefully preserved within folding doors. They are both whole lengths, ofthe size of life. One of them, which is evidently the inferior picture, isattended by a Cupid; the other is alone, having on a broad red velvethat--but, in other respects, undraped. For this latter picture, we weretold that two hundred louis d'or had been offered and refused--which theywell might have been; for I consider it to be, not the only chef-d'oeuvreof L. Cranach, but in truth a very extraordinary performance. There isdoubtless something of a poverty of drawing about it; but the colouringglows with a natural warmth which has been rarely surpassed even by Titian. It is one of the most elaborated pictures--yet producing a certain breadthof effect--which can be seen. The other Venus is perhaps more carefullypainted--but the effect is cold and poor. 

Here is also, by the same artist, a masterly little head of _St. Hubert_;and, near it, a charming portrait of _Luther's wife_, by Hans Holbein; butthe back-ground of the latter being red and comparatively recent, iscertainly not by the same hand. The countenance is full of a sweet, naturalexpression; and if this portrait be a faithful one of the wife of Luther, we must give that great reformer credit for having had a good taste in thechoice of a wife--as far as _beauty_ is concerned. Here are supposedportraits of _Charlemagne and Sigismund II. , _ by Albert Durer--whichexhibit great freedom of handling, and may be considered magnificentspecimens of that master's better manner of portrait painting. The headsare rather of colossal size. The draperies are most elaborately executed. Iobserved here, with singular satisfaction, _two_ of the well-known seriesof the TWELVE APOSTLES, supposed to be both painted and engraved by AlbertDurer. They were _St. John_ and _St. Paul_; the drapery, especially of thelatter, has very considerable merit. But probably the most interestingpicture to the generality of visitors--and indeed it is one entitled toparticular commendation by the most curious and critical--is, a largepainting, by _Sandrart_, representing a fête given by the AustrianAmbassador, at Nuremberg, upon the conclusion of the treaty of peace atWestphalia, in 1649, after the well known thirty year's war. This pictureis about fourteen feet long, by ten wide. The table, at which the guestsare banquetting, is filled by all the great characters who were thenassembled upon the occasion. An English knight of the garter issufficiently conspicuous; his countenance in three quarters, being turnedsomewhat over his left shoulder. The great fault of this picture is, makingthe guests to partake of a banquet, and yet to turn all their faces _fromit_--in order that the spectator may recognise their countenances. Thosewho sit at table, are about half the size of life. To the right of them, isa group as large as life, in which Sandrart has introduced himself, as ifpainting the picture. His countenance is charmingly coloured; but it is apity that all propriety of perspective is so completely lost, by placingtwo such differently sized groups in the same chamber. This picture standswofully in need of being repaired. It is considered--and apparently withjustice--to be the CHEF D'OEUVRE of the master. I have hardly ever seen apicture, of its kind, more thoroughly interesting--both on the score ofsubject and execution; but it is surely due to the memory of an artist, like Sandrart, --who spent the greater part of a long life at Nuremberg, andestablished an academy of painting there--that this picture ... Be at least_preserved_ ... If there be no means of engraving it. 

In these curious old chambers, it was to be expected that I should see some_Wohlegemuths_--as usual, with backgrounds in a blaze of gold, and figureswith tortuous limbs, pinched-in waists, and caricatured countenances. In aroom, pretty plentifully encumbered with rubbish, I saw a charming_Snyders;_ being a dead stag, suspended from a pole. There is here aportrait of _Albert Durer_, by himself; but said to be a copy. If so, it isa very fine copy. The original is supposed to be at Munich. There wasnothing else that my visit enabled me to see, particularly deserving ofbeing recorded; but, when I was told that it was in THIS CITADEL that theancient Emperors of Germany used oftentimes to reside, and make carousal, and when I saw, _now_, scarcely any thing but dark passages, unfurnishedgalleries, naked halls, and untenanted chambers--I own that I could hardlyrefrain from uttering a sigh over the mutability of earthly fashions, andthe transitoriness of worldly grandeur. With a rock for its base, and wallsalmost of adamant for its support--situated also upon an eminence which maybe said to look frowningly down over a vast sweep of country--THE CITADELOF NUREMBERG should seem to have bid defiance, in former times, to everyassault of the most desperate and enterprising foe. It is now visited onlyby the casual traveller ... Who is frequently startled at the echo of hisown footsteps. 

While I am on the subject of ancient art--of which so many curiousspecimens are to be seen in this Citadel--it may not be irrelevant toconduct the reader at once to what is called the _Town Hall_--a very largestructure--of which portions are devoted to the exhibition of old pictures. Many of these paintings are in a very suspicious state, from the operationsof time and accident; but the great boast of the collection are theTriumphs of Maximilian I, executed by _Albert Durer_--which, however, haveby no means escaped injury. I was accompanied in my visit to thisinteresting collection by Mr. Boerner, a partner in the house of Frauenholzand Co. --and had particular reason to be pleased by the friendliness of hisattentions, and by the intelligence of his observations. A great number ofthese pictures (as I understood) belonged to Messrs. Frauenholz and Co. ;and among them, a portrait by _Pens_, struck me as being singularlyadmirable and exquisite. The countenance, the dress, the attitude, thedrawing and colouring, were as perfect as they well might be. But thiscollection has also suffered from the transportation of many of itstreasures to Munich. The rooms, halls, and corridors of this Hôtel de Villegive you a good notion of municipal grandeur. 

Nuremberg was once the life and soul of _art_ as well as of _commerce_. Thenumismatic, or perhaps medallic, productions of her artists, in the XVIthcentury, might, many of them, vie with the choicest efforts of Greece. Ipurchased two silver medals, of the period just mentioned, which areabsolutely perfect of their kind: one has, on the obverse, the profile ofan old man with a flowing beard and short bonnet, with the circumscriptionof _Ætatis Suæ LXVI. _; and, on the reverse, the words _De Coelo Victoria. Anno M. D. XLVI. _ surrounding the arms of Bavaria. I presume the head to bea portrait of some ancient Bavarian General; and the inscription, on thereverse, to relate to some great victory, in honour of which the medal wasstruck. The piece is silver-gilt. The boldness of its relief can hardly beexceeded. The other medal represents the portrait of _Joh. PetreiusTypographus, Anno Ætat. Suæ. _ IIL. (48), _Anno_ 1545--executed withsurprising delicacy, expression, and force. But evidences of the perfectstate of art in ancient times, at Nuremberg, may be gathered from almostevery street in which the curious visitor walks. On the first afternoon ofmy arrival here, I was driven, by a shower of rain, into a small shop--upona board, on the exterior of which were placed culinary dishes. The mistressof the house had been cleaning them for the purpose of shewing them off toadvantage on the Sunday. One of these dishes--which was brass, withornaments in high relief--happened to be rather deep, but circular, and ofsmall diameter. I observed a subject in relief, at the bottom, which lookedvery like art as old as the end of the fifteenth century--although a gooddeal worn away, from the regularity pf periodical rubbing. The subjectrepresented the eating of the forbidden fruit. Adam, Eve, the Serpent, thetrees, and the fruit--with labels, on which the old gothic German letterwas sufficiently obvious--all told a tale which was irresistible toantiquarian feelings. Accordingly I proposed terms of purchase (one ducat)to the good owner of the dish:--who was at first exceedingly surprised atthe offer ... Wondering what could be seen so particularly desirable insuch a homely piece of kitchen furniture ... But, in the end, she consentedto the proposal with extraordinary cheerfulness. In another shop, on asucceeding day, I purchased two large brass dishes, of beautiful circularforms, with ornaments in bold relief--and brought the whole culinary cargohome with me. While upon the subject of _old art_--of which there arescarcely a hundred yards in the city of Nuremberg that do not display somememorial, however perishing--I must be allowed to make especial mention ofthe treasures of BARON DERSCHAU--a respectable old Prussian nobleman, whohas recently removed into a capacious residence, of which the chambers infront contain divers old pictures; and one chamber in particular, backward, is filled with curiosities of a singular variety of description. [172] I hadindeed heard frequent mention of this gentleman, both in Austria andBavaria. His reception of me was most courteous, and his conversationcommunicative and instructive. He _did_, and did _not_, dispose of things. He _was_, and was _not_, a sort of gentleman-merchant. One drawer wasfilled with ivory handled dirks, hunting knives, and pipe-bowls; upon whichthe carver had exercised all his cunning skill. Another drawer containedimplements of destruction in the shape of daggers, swords, pistols, andcutlasses: all curiously wrought. A set of _Missals_ occupied a thirddrawer: portfolios of drawings and _prints_, a fourth; and sundry_volumes_, of various and not uninteresting character, filled the shelvesof a small, contiguous book-case. Every thing around me bore the aspect of_temptation_; when, calling upon my tutelary genius to defend me in such acrisis, I accepted the Baron's offer, and sat down by the side of him upona sofa--which, from the singularity of its form and _matériel_, mightformerly possibly have supported the limbs of Albert Durer himself. 

The Baron commenced the work of _incantation_ by informing me that he wasonce in possession of the _journal_, or day-book, of Albert Durer:--writtenin the German language--and replete with the most curious informationrespecting the manner of his own operations, and of those of his workmen. From this journal, it appeared that Albert Durer was in the habit of_drawing upon the blocks_, and that his men performed the remainingoperation of _cutting away the wood_. I frankly confessed that I had longsuspected this: and still suspect the same process to have been used inregard to the wood cuts supposed to have been executed by _Hans Holbein_. On my eagerly enquiring what had become of this precious journal, the Baronreplied with a sigh--which seemed to come from the very bottom of hisheart--that "it had perished in the flames of a house, in the neighbourhoodof one of the battles fought between Bonaparte and the Prussians!!" TheBaron is both a man of veracity and virtù. In confirmation of the latter, he gave all his very extraordinary collection of original blocks of wood, containing specimens of art of the most remote period of wood engraving, tothe Royal University at Berlin--from which collection has been regularlypublished, those livraisons, of an atlas form, which contain impressions ofthe old blocks in question. [173] It is hardly possible for a graphicantiquary to possess a more completely characteristic and _beguiling_publication than this. 

On expressing a desire to purchase any little curiosity or antiquity, inthe shape of _book_ or _print_, for which the Baron had no immediate use, Iwas shewn several rarities of this kind; which I did not scruple to requestmight be laid aside for me--for the purpose of purchasing. Of these, in thebook way, the principal were a _Compendium Morale_: a Latin folio, PRINTEDUPON VELLUM, without date or name of printer--and so completely unknown tobibliographers, that Panzer, who had frequently had this very volume in hishands, was meditating the writing of a little treatise on it; and wasinterrupted only by death from carrying his design into execution. It is inthe most perfect state of preservation. A volume of _Hours_, and a_Breviary of Cracow_, for the winter part, PRINTED UPON VELLUM--in theGerman language, exceedingly fair and beautiful. A TERENCE of 1496 (for 9florins), and the first edition of _Erasmus's Greek Testament_, 1516, for18 florins. The "_Compendium"_ was charged by the Baron at about 5_l_. Sterling. These, with the Austrian historians, Pez, Schard, and Nidanus, formed a tolerably fair acquisition. [174] In the _print_ way, I wasfortunate in purchasing a singularly ancient wood-cut of _St. Catherine_, in the peculiarly dotted manner of the fifteenth century. This wood-cut wassaid to be UNIQUE. At any rate it is very curious and rare; and on myreturn to England, M. Du Chesne, who is the active director in thedepartment of the prints at Paris, prevailed upon me to part with my St. Catherine--at a price, which sufficiently shewed that he considered it tobe no very indifferent object to the royal collection of France. Thishowever was a perfectly secondary consideration. The print was left behindat Paris, as adding something to a collection of unrivalled value andextent, and where there were previously deposited two or three similarspecimens of art. 

But the Baron laid the greatest stress upon a copper plate impression of acrucifixion, of the date of 1430: which undoubtedly had a very staggeringaspect. [175] It is described in the subjoined note; and for reasons, therein detailed, I consider it to be much less valuable than the _St. Catherine_. [176] I also purchased of the Baron a few _Martin Schoens, Albert Durers_, and _Israel Van Mechlins_; and what I preferred to either, is a beautiful little illumination, cut out of an old choral book, orpsalter, said, by the vendor, to be the production of _Weimplan_, anartist, at Ulm, of the latter end of the fifteenth century. On my return toEngland, I felt great pleasure in depositing this choice morceau of ancientart in the very extraordinary collection of my friend Mr. Ottley--at thesame price for which I had obtained it--about five and twenty shillings. Upon the whole, I was well satisfied with the result of the "temptation"practised upon me at Baron Derschau's, and left the mansion with my purselightened of about 340 florins. The Baron was anxious to press a choice_Aldus_ or two upon me; but the word "choice" is somewhat ambiguous: andwhat was considered to be so at _Nuremberg_, might receive a differentconstruction in _London_. I was, however, anxious to achieve a much noblerfeat than that of running away with undescribed printed volumes, or rareold prints--whether from copper or wood. It was at Nuremberg that the EBNERFAMILY had long resided: and where the _Codex Ebnerianus_--a Greek MS. Ofthe New Testament, of the XIIth. Century--had been so much celebrated bythe elaborate disquisition of De Murr--which is accompanied by severalcopper plate fac-simile engravings of the style of art in the illuminationsof the MS. In question. I had heard that the ancient splendors of the Ebnerfamily had been long impaired; that their library had been partlydispersed; and that THIS VERY MS. Was yet to be purchased. I resolved, therefore, to lose no opportunity of becoming possessed of it ... Preparingmyself to offer a very considerable sum, and trusting that the spirit ofsome private collector, or public body, in my own country, would not longallow it to be a burden on my hands. Accordingly, by the interposition andkind offices of M. Lechner, the bookseller, I learnt, not only in whatquarter the MS. Was yet preserved, but that its owners were willing todispose of it for a valuable consideration. A day and hour were quicklyappointed. The gentleman, entrusted with the MS. --M. Lechner asinterpreter, my own valet, as interpreter between myself and M. Lechner, who could not speak French very fluently--all assembled at the _ChevalRouge_: with the CODEX EBNERIANUS, bound in massive silver, lying upon thetable between us. It is a small, thick quarto volume; written in thecursive Greek character, upon soft and fair coloured vellum, and adornedwith numerous illuminations in a fine state of preservation. Its antiquitycannot surely be carried beyond the XIIth century. On the outside of one ofthe covers, is a silver crucifix. Upon the whole, this precious book, bothfrom its interior and exterior attractions, operated upon me infinitelymore powerfully than the ivory-handled knives, gilt-studded daggers, gorgeous scraps of painting, or antique-looking prints ... Of the BaronDerschau. 

We soon commenced an earnest conversation; all four of us frequently beingupon our legs, and speaking, at the same time. The price was quickly fixedby the owner of the MS. ; but not so readily consented to by the proposedpurchaser. It was 120 louis d'or. I adhered to the offer of 100: and wewere each inflexible in our terms. I believe indeed, that if my 100 louisd'or could have been poured from a bag upon the table, as"argent-comptant, " the owner of the MS. _could_ not have resisted theoffer: but he seemed to think that, if paper currency, in the shape of abill, were resorted to, it would not be prudent to adopt that plan unlessthe sum of 120l. Were written upon the instrument. The conference ended bythe MS. Being carried back to be again deposited in the family where it hadso long taken up its abode. It is, however, most gratifying for me to add, that its return to its ancient quarters was only temporary; and that it wasdestined to be taken from them, for ever, by British spirit and Britishliberality. When Mr. John Payne visited Germany, in the following year, Iwas anxious to give him some particulars about this MS. And was sanguineenough to think that a second attempt to carry it off could not fail to besuccessful. The house of Messrs. Payne and Foss, so long and justlyrespected throughout Europe, invested their young representative with amplepowers for negotiation--and the _Codex Ebnerianus_, after having beenpurchased by the representative in question, for the sum first insistedupon by the owner--now reposes upon the richly furnished shelves of theBODLEIAN LIBRARY--where it is not likely to repose _in vain_; and fromwhence no efforts, by the most eminently successful bibliographicaldiplomatist in Europe, can dislodge it. 

I must now say a few words respecting the present state of the FINE ARTS atNuremberg, and make mention of a few things connected with the vicinity ofthe town, ere I conduct the reader to Manheim: regretting, however, that Iam necessitated to make that account so summary. I consider M. KLEIN to beamong the very brightest ornaments of this place, as an artist. I had seenenough of his productions at Vienna, to convince me that his pencilpossessed no ordinary powers. He is yet a young man; somewhere betweenthirty and forty, and leads occasionally a very romantic life--butadmirably subservient to the purposes of his art. He puts a knapsack uponhis back, filled with merely necessary articles of linen and materials forwork--and then stops, draws, eats, drinks, and sleeps where it pleases him:wherever his eye is gratified by strong characteristics of nature--whetheron cattle, peasants, soldiers, or Cossacks. 

Klein appears to have obtained his exquisite knowledge of animal paintingfrom having been a pupil of GABLER--a professed studier of natural history, and painter of animals. The pupil was unluckily absent from Nuremberg, whenI was there; but from many enquiries of his ultimate friends, I learnt thathe was of a cheerful, social disposition--fond of good company, and was inparticular a very active and efficient member of a _Society of Artists_, which has been recently established at Nuremberg. Klein himself, however, resides chiefly at Vienna--there not being sufficient patronage for him inhis native city. His water-coloured drawings, in particular, are consideredadmirable; but he has lately commenced painting in oil--with considerablesuccess. His _etchings_, of which he has published about one hundred, arein general masterly; but perhaps they are a little too metallic and severe. His observation of nature is at once acute and correct. 

In the neighbourhood of Nuremberg--that is to say, scarcely more than anEnglish mile from thence--are the grave and tomb-stone of ALBERT DURER. Dr. Bright having printed that artist's epitaph at length[177]--and it beingfound in most biographical details relating to him--it need not be hererepeated. The monument is simple and striking. In the churchyard, there isa representation of the Crucifixion, cut in stone. It was on a fine, calmevening, just after sunset, that I first visited the tombstone of AlbertDurer; and shall always remember the sensations, with which that visit wasattended, as among the most pleasing and impressive of my life. The silenceof the spot, --its retirement from the city--the falling shadows of night, and the increasing solemnity of every monument of the dead--- together withthe mysterious, and even awful effect, produced by the colossal crucifix... But yet perhaps, more than either, the recollection of the extraordinarytalents of the artist, so quietly sleeping beneath my feet ... Allconspired to produce a train of reflections which may be readily conceived, but not so readily described. If ever a man deserved to be considered asthe glory of his age and nation, ALBERT DURER was surely that man. He was, in truth, the Shakspeare of his art--for the _period_. 

Notwithstanding I had made every enquiry among the principal booksellers, of _Antiquars_, [178] for rare and curious old volumes, I literally foundnothing worth purchasing. The Baron Derschau was doubtless my best friendon this score. Yet I was told that, if I would put a pair of horses to mycarriage, and drive, to _Furth_--a short two German mile stage fromNuremberg, and which indeed I had distinctly seen from the windows of thecitadel--I should find there, at a certain Antiquar's, called HEERDEGEN, anendless, variety of what was precious and curious in the department ofwhich I was in search. Accordingly, I put the wheels of my carriage inmotion, within twenty-four hours of receiving the intelligence. The road toFurth is raised from the level of the surrounding country, and well pavedin the centre. It is also lined by poplar trees, a great part of the way. Ihave reason to remember this visit for many a long day. Having drove to M. Heerdegen's door, I was received with sufficient courtesy; and was told tomount to the top of the house, where the more ancient books were kept, while he, M. Heerdegen, settled a little business below. That businessconsisted in selling so many old folios, by the pound weight, in greatwooden scales;--the vendor, all the time, keeping up a cheerful andincessant conversation. The very _sight_ of this transaction was sufficientto produce an hysterical affection--and, instead of mounting upwards, Istood--stock still--wondering at such an act of barbarity! Having requestedpermission to open the volumes in question, and finding them to containdecretals, and glosses upon councils, I recovered myself by degrees ... Andleisurely walked to the very topmost floor of the house. 

M. Heerdegen was not long after me. He is a most naïf character; and whenhe is pleased with a customer, he presents him with an india ink drawing ofhis own portrait. On receiving this testimony of his approbation, I did notfail to make my proper acknowledgements: but, with respect to the bookswith which I was to load my carriage, there was scarcely a shadow of hope, of even securing a dozen volumes worth transporting to the banks of theRhine. However, after three hours pretty severe labour--having opened andrejected I know not how many books of Medicine, Civil and Canon Law, Scholastic Divinity, Commentaries upon Aristotle, and disputationsconnected with Duns Scotus, together with a great number of laterimpressions of the Latin Bible in the XVth century--I contrived to get agood _Latin Plutarch_, some pretty Aldine octavos, a few _Lochers_ and_Brandts_, a rare little German poetical tract, of four leaves, called the_Wittemberg Nightingale_, and an _Italian Bible_ printed by the _Giuntæ_, which had belonged to _Melancthon_, and contained his autograph:--allwhich, with some pieces by _Eckius_, _Schottus_, and _Erasmus_, to theamount of 4_l. _ 4_s. _ of English money, were conveyed with great pomp andceremony below. 

However, I had not been long with M. Heerdegen, before a clergyman, ofsmall stature and spare countenance, made his appearance and saluted me. Hehad seen the carriage pass, and learnt, on enquiry, that the travellerwithin it had come expressly to see M. Heerdegen. He introduced himself asthe curate of the neighbouring church, of which M. Fronmüller was therector or pastor: adding, that _his own_ church was the only place ofChristian worship in the village. This intelligence surprised me; but thecurate, whose name was _Link_, continued thus: "This town, Sir, consists ofa population of ten thousand souls, of which four-fifths are _Jews;_ whoare strictly forbidden to sleep within the walls of Nuremberg. It is onlyeven by a sort of courtesy, or sufferance, that they are allowed totransact business there during the day time. " M. Link then begged I wouldaccompany him to his own church, and to the rector's house--taking his ownhouse in the way. There was nothing particularly deserving of notice in thechurch, which has little claim to antiquity. It had, however, a good organ. The rector was old and infirm. I did not see him, but was well pleased withhis library, which is at once scholar-like and professional. The library ofthe curate was also excellent of its kind, though limited, from theconfined means of its owner. It is surprising upon what small stipends theProtestant clergy live abroad; and if I were to mention that of M. Link, Ishould only excite the scepticism of my readers. 

I was then conducted through the village--which abounded with dirty figuresand dirty faces. The women and female children were particularlydisgusting, from the little attention paid to cleanliness. The men and boyswere employed in work, which accounted for their rough appearance. Theplace seems to swarm with population--and if a plague, or other epidemicdisorder should prevail, I can hardly conceive a scene in which it islikely to make more dreadful havoc than at _Furth_. Although I had notobtained any thing _very special_ at this place, in the book way, I was yetglad to have visited it--were it only for the sake of adding one moreoriginal character to the _bibliopolistic fraternity_ upon theContinent. In spite of the very extraordinary _line_ of business which M. Heerdegen chooses to follow, I have reason to think that he "turns a goodpenny" in the course of the year; but own that it was with surprise Ilearnt that Mr. Bohn, the bookseller of Frith Street, [179] had preceded mein my visit--and found some historical folios which he thought well worththe expense of conveyance to England. 

It remains only to return for a few hours to Nuremberg, and then to conductthe reader to Manheim. One of the four days, during which I remained atNuremberg, happened to be _Sunday_; and of all places upon the Continent, Sunday is, at Nuremberg, among the gayest and most attractive. The weatherwas fine, and the whole population was alternately within and without thecity walls. Some Bavarian troops of cavalry were exercising near the publicwalks, and of course a great multitude was collected to witness theirmanoeuvres. On casting my eye over this concourse of people, attired intheir best clothes, I was particularly struck with the head dresses of thewomen: composed chiefly of broad-stiffened riband, of different colours, which is made to stick out behind in a flat manner--not to be describedexcept by the pencil of my graphic companion. The figure, seen in thefrontispiece of the third volume of this work, is that of the _Fille dechambre_ at our hotel, who was habited in her Sunday attire; and itdisplays in particular the riband head-dress--which was of blackwater-tabby sarsenet. But as these ribands are of different colours, andmany of them gay and gorgeous, their appearance, in the open air--and wherea great number of people is collected, and in constant motion--is that, asit were, of so many moving suns. In general, the _Nurembergeoises_ havelittle pretensions to beauty: they are; however, active, civil, andintelligent. 

It is rarely one takes leave of an hotel with regret when every daysjourney brings us sensibly nearer home. But it is due to the kind treatmentand comfortable lodgings, of which I partook at Nuremberg; to say, that notraveller can leave the _Cheval Rouge_ without at least wishing that allfuture inns which he visits may resemble it. We left Nuremberg afterdinner, resolving to sleep at _Ansbach_; of which place the Margrave andMargravine were sufficiently distinguished in our own country. I hadreceived a letter of introduction to Monsieur Le Comte de Drechsel, President de la Regence--and President of the corporation ofNuremberg--respecting the negotiation for the Boccaccio of 1472; fromwhich, however, I augured no very favourable result. The first stage fromNuremberg is _Kloster Heilbronn_: where, on changing horses, the master ofthe inn pressed me hard to go and visit the old church, which gives thename to the village, and which was said to contain some curious oldpaintings by Albert Durer: but there was literally no time--and I began tobe tired ... Almost of Albert Durers! At Ansbach we drove to the _Crown_, alarge and excellent inn. It was nightfall when we entered the town, but notso dark as to render the size and extent of the Margrave's palaceinvisible, nor so late as to render a visit to two booksellers, after alate cup of tea, impracticable. At one place, I found something in theshape of old books, but purchased nothing--except an edition of Boccaccio'sTales, in French, with the well known plates of Roman Le Hooge, 1701. 8vo. It was loosely bound in sorry calf, but a florin could not be consideredtoo much for it, even in its sombre state. The other bookseller supplied, by the tender of his friendly offices, the deficiencies of hiscollection--which, in fact, consisted of nothing but a stock of modernpublications. 

The next morning I visited the Comte Drechsel--having first written him anote, and gently touched upon the point at issue. He received me withcourtesy; and I found him particularly intelligent--but guarded in everyexpression connected with any thing like the indulgence, even of a hope, ofobtaining the precious volume in question. He would submit my propositionto the municipality. He understood English perfectly well, and spoke Frenchfluently. I had received intimation of a collection of rare and curious oldbooks, belonging to a Mr.... , in the environs of Ansbach; who, havingrecently experienced some misfortunes, had meditated the sale of hislibrary. The owner had a pretty country house, scarcely a stone's throwfrom the outskirts of the town, and I saw his wife and children--but nobooks. I learnt that these latter were conveyed to the town for the purposeof sale; and having seen a few of them, I left a commission for a copy of_Fust and Schoeffher's_ edition of Pope Boniface's Councils of 1465, UPONVELLUM. I have never heard of the result of the sale. 

From Ansbach to _Heilbronn_, which can be scarcely less than sixty Englishmiles, few things struck me on the road more forcibly than the remains of asmall old church and cloisters at _Feuchtwang_--where we stopped to changehorses, the first stage after Ansbach. It rained heavily, and we had onlytime to run hastily through these very curious old relics, which, ifappearances formed the test of truth, might, from the colour of the stoneand the peculiarity of the structure, have been old enough to designate thefirst christian place of worship established in Germany. The whole, however, was upon a singularly small scale. I earnestly recommend everyEnglish antiquary to stop longer than we did at Feuchtwang. From thence to_Heilbronn_, we passed many a castle-crowned summit, of which the base andadjacent country were covered by apparently impenetrable forests of fir andelm; but regretted exceedingly that it was quite nightfall when we made thevery steep and _nervous_ entrance into _Hall_--down a mountainous descent, which seemed to put the carriage on an inclined plane of forty-fivedegrees. We were compelled to have four horses, on making the oppositeascent; and were even preceded by boys, with links and torches, over asmall bridge, under which runs a precipitous and roaring stream. Hall is alarge, lively, and much frequented town. 

_Heilbronn_, or _Hailbrunn_, is a large consequential town; and parts of itare spacious, as well as curious from appearances of antiquity. The largesquare, where we changed horses, was sufficiently striking; and the Hotelde ville in particular was worthy of being copied by the pencil of mycompanion. But we were only passing travellers, anxious to reach Manheimand to cross the Rhine. The country about Heilbronn is picturesque andfertile, and I saw enough to convince me that two days residence therewould not be considered as time thrown away. It is one of the principaltowns in the kingdom of Wirtemberg, and situated not many leagues from theBlack Forest, or _Schwartz Wald_, where wild boars and other wild animalsabound, and where St. Hubert (for aught I know to the contrary) keeps hisnocturnal revels in some hitherto unfrequented glen ... Beneath theradiance of an unclouded moon. 

But if _Heilbronn_ be attractive, from the imposing appearance of thehouses, _Heidelberg_ is infinitely more so; containing a population of ninethousand inhabitants. We reached this latter place at dinner time, onSunday--but as it rained heavily for the last hour previous to ourentrance, we could not take that survey of the adjacent country which we somuch desired to do. Yet we saw sufficient to delight us infinitely: havingtravelled along the banks of the river _Neckhar_ for the last three or fourmiles, observing the beautifully wood-crowned hills on the opposite side. But it is the CASTLE, or OLD PALACE of HEIDELBERG--where the Grand Dukes ofBaden, or old Electors Palatine, used to reside--and where the celebratedTUN, replenished with many a score hogshead of choice Rhenish wine--formthe grand objects of attraction to the curious traveller. The palace is astriking edifice more extensive than any thing I had previously seen; butin the general form of its structure, so like _Holland House_ atKensington, that I hesitated not one moment to assign the commencement ofthe sixteenth century, as the period of the building in question. The dateof 1607, [180] cut in stone, over one of the principal doors, confirmed myconjecture. 

I now looked eagerly on all sides--observing what portions were more orless dilapidated, and wondering at the extent and magnificence of thebuilding. Room after room, corridor succeeding corridor--saloons, galleries, banquetting apartments, each and all denuded of its onceprincely furniture--did not fail to strike my imagination most forcibly. Here was the _Hall of Chivalry_, which had been rent asunder by lightning:yonder, a range of statues of the old _Electors Counts Palatine_:--a tierof granite columns stood in another direction, which had equally defied theassaults of the foe and the ravages of time. In one part, looking down, Iobserved an old square tower, which had been precipitated in consequence(as I learnt) of an explosion of gunpowder. It was doubtless about acentury older than the building from which I observed it. On an eminence, almost smothered with larch and lime, and nearly as much above ourselves aswe were from the town, stand the ruins of another old castle ... Theresidence of the older Counts Palatine. The whole scene was full ofenchantment to an antiquarian traveller; and I scarcely knew how to quitone portion of it for another. 

The terrace, at the back of the castle, forms a noble and commanding walk. Here, in former days, the counts and dukes of the empire, with all theirtrains of duchesses and damoiselles, used to parade in full pomp andmagnificence, receiving the homage of their dependants, and the applause ofthe townsmen. From hence, indeed, they might have looked down, in the proudspirit of disdain, upon their vassal subjects:--or, in case of rebellion, have planted their cannon and pulverised their habitations in a littlehour. It is hardly possible to conceive a more magnificent situation ... But now, all is silence and solitude. The wild boar intrudes with impunityinto the gardens--and the fowls of heaven roost within those spaciouschambers, which were once hung with rich arras, or covered with gorgeoustapestry. Scarcely three human beings ... Who seem to sleep out theirexistence ... Are now the tenants of THAT MANSION, where once scarcelyfewer than one hundred noblemen with their attendants, found comfortableaccommodations. A powerful, and yet not unpleasing melancholy, touches theheart ... As one moves leisurely along these speaking proofs of themutability of earthly grandeur. 

No man visits this proud palace without visiting also the equallycelebrated TUN--of which _Merian_, in his well known views, has supplied uswith a print or two. It is placed in the lower regions of the palace, in aroom by itself--except that, by the side of it, there stands a small caskwhich may hold a hogshead, and which is considered to be the _ne plusultra_ of the art of cooperage. It is made in the neatest and closest-fitting manner imaginable, without either a nail, or piece of iron, orencircling hoop; and I believe it to be nearly as old as the _great Tun_. This latter monstrous animal, of his species, is supported by ribs--ofrather a picturesque appearance--which run across the belly of the cask, atright angles with the staves. As a WINE CASK, it has long maintained itsproud distinction of being the _largest in the world_. A stair-case is tothe right of it, leading to a little square platform at the top; upon whichfrolicksome lads and lasses used, in former days, to dance, when the tubhad been just filled with the produce of the passing year's vintage. Theguide told us that one Elector or Grand Duke, I think it was CHARLESTHEODORE, had immortalised himself, by having, during his regency, causedthe great tun of Heidelberg to be fairly _twice emptied_;--"those (addedhe) were golden days, never to return. At present, and for a long timepast, the cask is filled almost to the very top with _mere lees_. " In anadjoining cellar, I was shewn a set of casks, standing perpendicularly, called the _Twelve Apostles_. The whole of this subterraneous abode had, Imust confess, a great air of hospitality about it; but when I mentioned tothe guide the enormous size of those casks used by our principal Londonbrewers--compared with which, even the "GREAT TUN" was a mere TEA-CUP--heheld up his hands, shook his head, and exclaimed with great self-satisfaction... "cela ne se peut pas être!"

After I had dined, I called upon M. Schlosser, one of the professors of theUniversity--for which this town is rather celebrated. [181] Attached to thisUniversity, is a famous _Library of MSS. And printed books_--but moreespecially of the former. It has been long known under the name of the_Palatine Library;_ and having been seized and transported to the Vatican, at the conclusion of the thirty years war, and from thence carried toParis, was, in the year 1815, at the urgent intercession of the King ofPrussia, restored to its ancient-resting-place. What "a day of joyance" wasthat when this restoration took place! M. Schlosser adverted to it with asatisfaction amounting... Almost to rapture. That gentleman made me apresent of the first part of his _Universal Biography_, published at_Franckfort on the Main_, the preceding year, in 8vo. --in the Germanlanguage--with copious and erudite notes. He shewed me the earlier printedvolumes of the Public Library; of which, having unluckily lost the fewmemoranda I had taken--but which I believe only included the notice of a_first Caesar_, _first Suetonius_, and _first Tacitus_--I am not able togive any particular details. M. Schlosser conversed a good deal, and veryearnestly, about Lord Spencer's library--and its probable ultimatedestination; seeming to dread its "_dispersion_" as a national calamity. 

It was late in the afternoon, when darkness was rather prematurely comingon--and the rain descending almost in torrents--that I left Heidelberg forMANHEIM--the _ultima Thule_ of my peregrinations on the German side of theRhine. The road is nearly straight, in good order, and lined with poplartrees. People of all descriptions--on foot, in gigs, carriages, and uponhorseback--were hastening home--as upon a Sunday evening with_us_:--anxious to escape the effects of a soaking rain. Unfavourable as theweather was, I could not help looking behind, occasionally, to catchglimpses of the magnificent palace of Heidelberg; which seemed to encrease, in size and elevation as we continued to leave it in the rear. The country, also, on the other side of the _Neckhar_, was mountainous, wooded, andpicturesque: the commencement of that chain of hills, which, extendingtowards _Mayence_ and _Cologne_, form the favourite and well known scenerywhich Englishmen delight to visit. As my eye ran along this magnificentrange, I could not but feel something approaching to deep regret ... That_other_ causes, besides those of the lateness of the season, operated inpreventing me from pursuing my course in that direction. It wasimpossible ... However I might have wished to visit the cities where _Fust_and _Schoeffher_ and _Ulric Zel_ are supposed to lie entombed, and wherethe FIRST PRODUCTIONS OF THE PRESS were made public--it was impossible forme to do otherwise than to make Manheim the _colophon_ of mybibliographical excursion. The glass had been _turned_ for some time past, and the sand was fast running out. 

It was rather late when we drove to the _Golden Fleece_ at Manheim, thebest inn in the town--and situated in a square, which, when we visited it, was filled by booths: it being fair time. With difficulty we gotcomfortable lodgings, so extremely crowded was the inn. The court-yard washalf choked up with huge casks of Rhenish wine, of different qualities;most of them destined for England--and all seemed to be agitation andbustle. The first night of my arrival was a night of mixed pleasure andpain, by the receipt of nearly a dozen letters from Vienna, Munich, Stuttgart, and London, collectively: the whole of which had been purposelydirected to this place. The contents of the Stuttgart letter have beenalready detailed to the reader. [182] The first object of my visitation atManheim, on the morrow, was the house of DOM. ARTARIA--known, throughoutthe whole of Germany, as the principal mercantile house for books, prints, and pictures. [183] With these objects of commerce, was united that of_banking_: forming altogether an establishment of equal prosperity andrespectability. The house is situated in the principal square, at thecorner of one of the streets running into it. It has a stone front, and theexterior is equally as attractive in appearance, as the interior is fromsubstantial hospitality. The civility, the frankness, the open-heartednessof my reception here was, if possible, more warm and encouraging than inany previous place in Germany; and what rendered the whole perfectlydelightful, was, the thorough English-like appearance of every thing aboutme. Books, prints, pictures--and household furniture of everydescription--bespoke the judicious and liberal taste of the owner of themansion; while the large and regular supplies of letters and despatches, every morning, gave indication of a brisk and opulent commerce. It so happened that, the very first morning of my visit to M. Artaria, there arrived trucks, filled with boxes and bales of goods purchased at theFrankfort fair--which had not been long over. In some of these ponderouscases, were pictures of the old masters; in others, _prints_.. Chiefly fromParis and London, [184] and principally from the house of Messrs. Longmanand Co. In Paternoster row. Among these latter, was a fine set of the_Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica, _ in ten volumes, 4to. Bound inrussia--which had been bespoke of M. Artaria by some Bavarian Count: andwhich must have cost that Count very little short of 120 guineas. Theshelves of the front repository were almost wholly filled with Englishbooks, in the choicest bindings; and dressed out to catch and captivate thesusceptible _bibliomaniac_, in a manner the most adroit imaginable. To theleft, on entrance, were two rooms filled with choice paintings; many ofthem just purchased at the Frankfort fair. Some delicious Flemish pictures, among which I particularly noticed a little _Paul Potter_--valued at fivehundred guineas--and some equally attractive Italian performances, containing, among the rest, a most desirable and genuine portrait of_Giovanni Bellini_--valued at one hundred and fifty guineas--were some ofthe principal objects of my admiration. 

But, more interesting than either, in my humble judgment, and yet notdivested of a certain vexatious feeling, arising from an ignorance of theoriginal--was a portrait, painted in oil, of the size of life, quite in themanner of _Hans Holbein_ ... Yet with infinitely more warmth and power ofcarnation-tint. It was alive--and looked you through, as you entered theroom. Few galleries, of portraits contain a more perfect specimen of thepainting of the times. For the original, I believe, M. Artaria asked threehundred guineas. [185]

The purse and table of M. Artaria were as open and as richly furnished aswere his repositories of books and pictures; and I was scolded because Ihad not made _his house_ my head quarters during my residence at Manheim. Idined with him, however, twice out of the four days of my stay; and wasindifferent to plays and public places of resort, in the conversation andcompany which I found at his house. Yet it was during the circulation ofhis double-quart bottles of old Rhenish wine--distributed with a liberalitynot to be exceeded by the Benedictines at the monastery at Göttwic, and yetmore exquisite and choice in its flavour--that the gallant host pouredforth the liberal sentiments which animated a bosom... Grateful toprovidence for the success that had crowned his steadily and well directedlabours! I never saw a man upon whom good fortune sat more comfortably, orone whom it was so little likely to spoil. Half of my time was spent in thehouse of M. Artaria, because there I found the kind of society which Ipreferred--and which contained a mixture of the antiquary and collector, with the merchant and man of the world. After this, who shall say that afac-simile of his Autograph (now that he is NO MORE!) can be unacceptableeven to the most fastidious. 

[Illustration]

Among the antiquaries, were Messrs. TRAITEUR and KOCH. The former had beenpublic librarian at Munich; and related to me the singular anecdote ofhaving picked up the _first Mentz Bible_, called the _Mazarine_, for a fewfrancs at Nancy. M. Traiteur is yet enthusiastic in his love of books, andshewed me the relics of what might have been a curious library. He has astrange hypothesis, that the art of printing was invented at _Spire;_ onaccount of a medal having been struck there in 1471, commemorative of thatevent; which medal was found during the capture of that place about twocenturies ago. He fixed a very high price--somewhere about fortypounds--upon the medal; which, however, I never saw. He hoped (and I hopeso too, for his own sake) that the Prince Royal of Bavaria would offer himthat sum for it, to enrich his collection at Munich. M. Traiteur talkedlargely of a German book in his possession, with the express date of 1460;but though I was constantly urging him to shew it to me, he was not able toput his hand upon it. I bought of him, however, about ten pounds worth ofbooks, among which was the _Life of St. Goar _, printed by _Schoeffher_ in1481, quarto--the date of which had been artfully altered to 1470--byscratching out the final xi. This was not the knavery of the vender. M. Traiteur _offered_ me the _Tewrdanckhs_ of 1517, upon paper, for tenpounds: a sum, much beyond what I considered to be its real worth--from thecopy having been half bound, and a good deal cropt. He was incessant in hispolite attentions to me. 

M. Koch had been, if he be not yet, a grocer; but was so fond of rare oldbooks, that he scarcely ever visited his canisters and sugar-loaves. Ibought some very curious little pieces of him, to the amount of ten ortwelve guineas: among which, was the strange and excessively rare tract, inLatin and German, entitled _De Fide Concubinarum in Sacerdotes_, of which avery particular account appears in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. I. P. 229, 235. His simplicity of manners and friendliness of disposition wereequally attractive; and I believe if he had possessed the most preciousAldine Classics, upon vellum, I could have succeeded in tempting him topart with them. 

The town of Manheim is large, neat, and populous; containing 20, 000 souls. The streets run generally at right angles, and are sufficiently airy andwide. But, compared with the domestic architecture of Augsburg, Munich, andVienna, the houses are low, small, and unornamented. The whole place hasmuch the appearance of a handsome provincial town in England. There aregardens and public walks; but the chief of these is connected with the oldred-stone palace of the former Elector Palatine. The Rhine terminates thesewalks on one side; and when I visited them, which was twice during my stay, that river was running with a rapid and discoloured current. The Rhine isbroad here; but its banks are tame. A mound is raised against it, in someparts, to prevent partial overflows, and a fine terrace crowns its summits. A bridge of boats, over which you pass into France, is immediately in view. Upon the whole, these gardens, which seem to be laid out in the Englishfashion, and which are occasionally varied by some pleasing serpentinewalks, are left in a sad state of neglect. The breeze from the river playsfreely along the osiers and willows, with which its banks are plentifullyplanted; and I generally felt refreshed by half an hour's walk upon thebroad, dry, gravel terrace, which comes close up to the very windows of thepalace. The palace itself is of an enormous size--but is now bereft ofevery insignia of royalty. It is chiefly (as I understood) a depôt forarms. 

I ought to mention, among the social gratifications, of which I partook atManheim, that arising from the kind attentions of M. ACKERMANN; agentleman, retired from business, and residing in the place orsquare:--devoting the evening of a bachelor's life to the amusementresulting from a small but well chosen collection of coins and medals. Heshewed me several of surprising delicacy and finish ... More especially ofthe sixteenth century, executed at Nuremberg--and tempted me to become apurchaser of the _Gold Royal_ of our _Edward IV. _, for which I offered himfive louis. As he thought himself handsomely paid, he presented me, inaddition, with a beautiful silver medal of the sixteenth century--struck atNuremberg--of which particular mention has been made in a preceding, page. [186] One of my visits to M. Ackermann was diversified by the sight ofa profusion of fine grapes, of both colours, which had been just gatheredfrom his garden--within the suburbs of the town:--where, indeed, a numberof finely trimmed gardens, belonging to the citizens of Manheim, are keptin the highest state of cultivation. The vintage had now set through-outGermany and France; and more delicious grapes than those presented to me byM. A. , could seldom be partaken of. Yet I know not if they were quite equalto those of Ratisbon and Heilbrunn. Passing along a very extensivevineyard, we stopped--requesting the valet to alight, and try to procure ussome of the tempting fruit in view ... In order to slake our thirst duringa hot journey. In a second he disappeared, and in a minute reappeared--witha bunch of black grapes--so large, full, and weighty ... That I question ifVan Huysum or De Heem ever sat down to such a model for the exercise oftheir unrivalled pencils. The juice of this bunch was as copious anddelicious as the exterior was downy and inviting. We learnt, however, thatthese little acts of depredation were not always to be committed withimpunity; for that, in the middle of extensive fields, when the grape wasripe enough to be gathered, watch-boxes were placed--and keepers withinthese boxes were armed with carbines, loaded with something more weightythan _powder_!

It only remains to mention, that, having left particular directions withthe house of M. Artaria, to forward all _the_ cases which had beenconsigned to me, at their own house, from Vienna and Nuremberg, to that ofMessrs. Arch and Co. , booksellers, Cornhill, I had nothing to do but renewmy letter of credit, and pass over the Rhine into France. I startedimmediately after dinner, from M. Artaria's house; horses having beenbrought to the door. 

MANHEIM TO PARIS. 

About four o'clock we passed over the bridge of boats, across the Rhine, and changed horses at _Ogersheim_ and _Spire_, sleeping at _Germezsheim_. The Rhine flows along the meadows which skirt the town of Spire; and whilethe horses were changing, we took a stroll about the cathedral. It islarge, but of a motley style of architecture--and, in part, of a Moorishcast of character. Nothing but desolation appears about its exterior. Theroof is sunk, and threatens to fall in every moment. No service (Iunderstood) was performed within--but in a contiguous garden were theremains of a much older edifice, of an ecclesiastical character. Around, however, were the traces of devastation and havoc--the greater part arisingfrom the bullets and cannon balls of the recent campaigns. It wasimpossible, however, for a _typographical antiquary_ to pass through thistown, without feeling some sensations approaching to a sort of pleasingmelancholy: for HERE were born the TWO SPIRAS--or _John and Vindelin deSpira_--who introduced the art of printing into Venice. I do not supposethat there exists any relic of domestic architecture here old enough tohave been contemporaneous with the period of their births. 

The journey to Paris, through the route we took, was such--till we reached_St. Avold_, about two hundred and fifty English miles from the capital--asis never likely to induce me to repeat the attempt. The continuation of thechain of mountains called the _Vosges_, running northerly from Strasbourgdownwards--renders the road wearisome, and in parts scarcely passable--asthe government has recently paid no attention to its reparation. _Landau_, _Weissenbourg_, and _Bitche_ are the principal fortified towns; the latter, indeed, boasts of a commanding fort--upon a very elevated piece of ground, ranked among the more successful efforts of Vauban. The German languagecontinued chiefly to be spoken among the postilions and lower orders, tillwe left _Forbach_ for _St. Avold_. At _Landau_, about three hundred andsixty miles from Paris, I parted with my valet--- for Strasbourg; under theimpression that he would be glad to resume his acquaintance with me, on anyfuture occasion: at the same time he seemed to long to be taken with us to_London_--a city, of all others, he said, he was desirous of seeing. He hadalso half imbibed the notion that its streets were paved with gold. 

_Metz_ is a noble city: finely situated, strongly fortified, and thicklyinhabited. The _Moselle_ encircles a portion of it in a very picturesquemanner. The inn, called the _Cheval Blanc_, should rather be that of_Cheval Noir_--if it take its epithet from the colour of the interior--fora dirtier hotel can scarcely exist. It was a fine moonlight night when weleft Metz, on a Sunday, resolving to sleep two stages on the road. The nextday we dined at _Dombasle_, a stage beyond _Verdun_; and were within aboutseventy miles of _Chalons sur Marne_. The vintage and the fruits of Autumnwere now rich and abundant on all sides. The fields were all purple, andthe orchards all red and gold. Wine casks, stained with the gushing juice, met us between every stage; while on the right hand and left, we saw thewomen walking beneath their perpendicular baskets, laden with the mostbountiful produce of the vineyard. Such a year of plenty had hardly beenremembered within the oldest memory. Mean time, the song and the roundelaywere heard from all quarters; and between _Dombasle_ and _Clermont_, as weascended a wooded height, with the sun setting in a flame of gold, infront--we witnessed a rural sight, connected with the vintage, which wassufficient to realise all the beautiful paintings ever executed by_Watteau_ and _Angelis_. 

It was late when we reached _Chalons_. The next day, we started for_Rheims_, and stopped at _Sillery_ in our way--the last stage on that sideof it. The day was really oppressive--although we were in the middle ofOctober. At Sillery we drank some Champagne--for which it is famous--theproduce of the same year's vintage. It had not been made a fortnight--andtasted rather sharp and strong. This, we were triumphantly told, was thesure test of its turning out excellent. We were infinitely delighted withRheims, more especially with THE CATHEDRAL. The western porches--andparticularly that on the north side--are not less beautifully, than theyare elaborately, sculptured. The interior, immediately within the westernporches--or rather on the reverse sides of them--presents sculpture ofadmirable workmanship:--of the fourteenth century. But the porches appearedmuch lower than I had imagined. In the nave is an isolated romansculpture, [187] of the lower age, cut in a block of marble--andunconnectedly placed there. This has been engraved in the _AntiquitéExpliquée_ of _Montfaucon_. At the further end of the choir, is anelaborately sculptured modern monument--containing many beautiful figuresin white marble:--upon the whole, one of the most interesting which I hadseen upon the Continent. The upper part of the exterior of the cathedral, on the south side, is very elegantly carved; but the towers are short, andunder repair. The lower part of the south exterior of the cathedral isentirely marred, as to picturesque effect, by the recent buildings attachedto it. Upon the whole, however, the Cathedral at Rheims is a very pure andinteresting specimen of Gothic architecture. Nor must I omit an anecdoteconnected with its present state of preservation. That it escaped theravages of the revolution, was owing, as I learnt, to the respect which waspaid to the Curé of some neighbouring parish. He came down to the armedmultitude, when they were ripe for every species of destruction. He toldthem--they might take his LIFE ... But entreated them to spare the MOTHERCHURCH. They spared both: but many marks of their devastation are yet seen;and pieces of old sculpture, dragged from their original places ofdestination, are stuck about in different parts, over shopkeepers' doors. Icould have filled a caravan with several curious specimens of thiskind:--which would have been joyfully viewed by many a Member of theSociety of Antiquaries. The population of Rheims is estimated at aboutthirty thousand. It appears to be situated in a fertile and picturesquecountry. 

As the weather continued not only serene, but almost sultry--and as webegan to be weary of packing and unpacking, and sleeping at so manydifferent inns in the route--I resolved upon travelling all night, andpushing on at once for Paris: where our fatigue would have a temporarycessation. I left, therefore, this venerable city about six o'clock in theevening--intending to travel without intermission till I reached my oldquarters at the _Hôtel des Colonies_, in the _Rue de Richelieu_. The roadis paved in the middle, the whole way to Paris; but we were careful toavoid the centre. In other respects, this road is broad, and has a nobleappearance. As we quitted Rheims, and were gaining the height of the firsthill, on the Paris side, we turned round to take a farewell view of thevenerable cathedral. It will be long ere I forget that view. The moon, nowat full, was rising--in unclouded majesty--just above the summit of the oldtowers of the cathedral. Her orb was clear, pale, and soft; and yetcompletely irradiated. The towers and western front were in a cold, graytint: the houses, of inferior dimensions, were shrunk to insignificancy. There was, therefore, nothing but a cloudless sky, a full moon, and thecathedral of Rheims:--objects, upon which the eye rests, and theimagination riots... As ours did ... Till a turning of the road shut outthe scenery from our view. 

It was considerably past midnight when I reached _Soissons_--the principaltown between Rheims and Paris. I breakfasted at _Dammartin_. About mid-dayI entered Paris, and found the hostess of the _Hôtel des Colonies_, (whohad been apprised by letter of our intention of returning thither)perfectly disposed to give me a cordial reception, after an absence ofabout three months. Having settled my affairs, and enjoyed a short reposeat Paris of a fortnight, I returned with my companion, by the diligence, toCalais; and landed at Dover within about six months, and a half of mydeparture from Brighton to Dieppe. Although my tour was carried on in themost favourable of seasons--and with every sort of comfort, and attentionarising from letters of recommendation, and hospitable receptions inconsequence--yet I had undergone, from a constant state of excitement andoccupation, a great deal of bodily and mental fatigue; and I question ifpoor Park, ... Had it pleased Providence to have allowed him to re-visithis native shore... Would have retouched BRITISH EARTH with greater joythan I experienced, when, leaping from the plank, put out from the boat, Iplanted my foot upon the shingles at DOVER ... 

 ... _reddens landes Domino_. [188]

[157] The Emperor of Austria having stopped at this hotel, the landlord asked his permission to call it from henceforth by his _Majesty's name_; which was readily granted. There is an _Album_ here, in which travellers are requested to inscribe their names, and in which I saw the _imperial autograph_. 

[158] Especially in the striped broad shoes; which strongly resemble those in the series of wood-cuts descriptive of the triumphs of the Emperor Maximilian. 

[159] There is a lithographic print of it recently published, from the drawing of Quaglio--of the same folio size with the similar prints of Ulm and Nuremburg. The date of the _towers_ of the Cathedral of Ratisbon may be ascertained with the greatest satisfaction. From the _Nuremberg Chronicle_ of 1493 folio xcviii, recto, it appears that when the author (Hartmann Schedel) wrote the text of that book, "the edifice was yet incomplete. " This incomplete state, alludes, as I suspect, to the towers; for in the wood-cut, attached to the description, there is a crane fixed upon the top of _one_ of the towers, and a stone being drawn up by it--this tower being one story shorter than the other. Schedel is warm in commendation of the numerous religious establishments, which, in his time, distinguished the city of Ratisbon. Of that of St. Emmeran, the following note supplies some account. 

[160] Lord Spencer possesses some few early Classics from this monastic library, which was broken up about twenty years ago. His Lordship's copy of the _Pliny of_ 1469, folio, from the same library, is, in all probability, the finest which exists. The MONASTERY OF ST. EMMERAM was doubtless among the "most celebrated throughout Europe. " In Hartmann Schedel's time, it was "an ample monastery of the order of St. Benedict. " In the _Acta Sanctorum, mense Septembris, vol. Vi. Sep_. 22, p. 469, the writer of the life of St. Emmeram supposes the monastery to have been built towards the end of the VIIth century. It was at first situated _without_ the walls, --but was afterwards (A. D. 920) included within the walls. Hansizius, a Jesuit, wrote a work in 1755, concerning the origin and constitution of the monastery--in which he says it was founded by Theodo in 688. The body of St. Emmeram was interred in the church of St. George, by Gaubaldus, in the VIIIth century, which church was reduced to ashes in 1642; but three years afterwards, they found the body of St. Emmeram, preserved in a double chest, or coffin, and afterwards exposed it, on Whitsunday, 1659, in a case of silver--to all the people. 

[161] He died in April, 1820. 

[162] [NOT so--as I understand. It is re-established in its previous form. ]

[163] So I heard him called everywhere--in Austria and Bavaria--by men of every degree and rank in society; and by _professional_ men as frequently as by others. I recollect when at Landshut, standing at the door of the hotel, and conversing with two gallant-looking Bavarian officers, who had spent half their lives in the service: one of them declaring that "he should like to have been _opposed_ to WELLINGTON--to have _died_ even in such opposition, if he could not have vanquished him. " I asked him, why? "Because (said he) there is glory in such a contest--for he is, doubtless, the FIRST CAPTAIN OF THE AGE. "

[164] Dr. Bright, in _Travels in Lower Hungary_, p. 90-3, has an animated passage connected with this once flourishing, but now comparatively drooping, city. In the _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. Iii. P. 261-3, will be found an extract or two, from Schedel's _Nuremberg Chronicle_, fol. C. , &c. Edit. 1493, which may serve to give a notion of the celebrity of Nuremberg about three centuries and a half ago. 

[165] Or rather, walls which have certain round towers, with a projecting top, at given intervals. These towers have a very strong and picturesque appearance; and are doubtless of the middle part of the fifteenth century. In Hartman Schedel's time, there were as many of them as there were days in the year. 

[166] [A large and most beautiful print of this interesting Shrine has been published since the above was written. It merits every commendation. ]

[167] This is a striking and interesting print--and published in England for 1_l. _ 1_s. _ The numerous figures introduced in it are habited in the costume of the seventeenth century. 

[168] The author of this work was _Franciscus de Retz_. As a first essay of printing, it is a noble performance. The reader may see the book pretty fully described in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. Iii. P. 489. 

[169] See p. 320 ante. 

[170] See a copy of it described at Paris; vol. Ii. P. 126. 

[171] See p. 182 ante. 

[172] [He is since DEAD. ]

[173] Only three livraisons of this work have, I believe, been yet published:--under the title of "_Gravures en Bois des anciens maîtres allemands tirées des Planches originales recueillies par_ IULIAN ALBERT DERSCHAU. _Publiées par Rodolphe Zecharie Becker_. " The last, however, is of the date of 1816--and as the publisher has now come down to wood-blocks of the date of 1556, it may be submitted whether the work might not advantageously cease? Some of the blocks in this third part seem to be a yard square. 

[174] They are now in the library of Earl Spencer. 

[175] I will describe this singular specimen of old art as briefly and perspicuously as I am able. It consists of an impression, in pale black ink--resembling very much that of aquatint, of a subject cut upon copper, or brass, which is about seventeen inches in height (the top being a little cut away) and about ten inches six-eighths in width. The upper part of the impression is in the shape of an obtusely pointed, or perhaps rather semicircular, gothic window--and is filled by involutions of forms or patterns, with great freedom of play and grace of composition: resembling the stained glass in the upper parts of the more elaborated gothic windows of the beginning of the fifteenth century. Round the outer border of the subject, there are seven white circular holes, as if the metal from which the impression was taken, had been _nailed up_ against a wall--and these blank spots were the result of the aperture caused by the space formerly occupied by the nails. Below, is the subject of the crucifixion. The cross is ten inches high: the figure of Christ, without the glory, six inches: St. John is to the left, and the mother of Christ to the right of the cross; and each of these figures is about four inches high. The drawing and execution of these three figures, are barbarously puerile. To the left of St. John is a singular appearance of the _upper_ part of _another_ plate, running at right angles with the principal, and composed also in the form of the upper portion of a gothic window. To the right of the virgin, and of the plate, is the "staggering" date abovementioned. It is thus: M. Cccc. Xxx. This date is fixed upon the stem of a tree, of which both the stem and the branches above appear to have been _scraped_, in the copper, almost _white_--for the sake of introducing the inscription, or _date_. The date, moreover, has a very suspicious look, in regard to the execution of the letters of which it is composed. As to the _paper_, upon which the impression is taken, it has, doubtless, much of the look of old paper; but not of that particular kind, either in regard to _tone_ or _quality_, which we see in the prints of Mechlin, Schoen, or Albert Durer. But what gives a more "staggering aspect" to the whole affair is, that the worthy Derschau had _another_ copy of this _same_ impression, which he sold to Mr. John Payne, and which is now in the highly curious collection of Mr. Douce. This was fortunate, to say the least. The copy purchased by myself, is now in the collection of Earl Spencer. 

[176] I should add, that the _dotted_ manner of executing this old print, may be partly seen in that at page 280 of vol. Iii. Of the second edition of this work; but still more decidedly in the old prints pasted within the covers of the extraordinary copy of the _Mazarine Bible_, UPON VELLUM, once in the possession of Messrs. Nicol, booksellers to his late Majesty, and now in that of Henry Perkins, Esq. 

[177] _Travels in Lower Hungary_, 1818, 4to. P. 93. 

[178] _Buchhandler_ is bookseller: and _Antiquar_ a dealer in old books. In Nuremberg, families exist for centuries in the same spot. I. A. ENDTER, one of the principal booksellers, resides in a house which his family have occupied since the year 1590. My intercourse was almost entirely with M. Lechner--one of the most obliging and respectable of his fraternity at Nuremberg. 

[179] [Now of Henrietta Street Covent Garden. As is a sturdy oak, of three centuries growth, compared with a sapling of the last season's transplanting, so is the business of Mr. Bohn, NOW, compared with what it was when the _above_ notice was written. ]

[180] It is either 1607, or 1609. 

[181] The reputation of the University of Heidelberg, which may contain 500 students, greatly depends upon that of the professors. The students are generally under twenty years of age. Their dress and general appearance is very picturesque. The shirt collar is open, the hair flowing, and a black velvet hat or cap, of small and square dimensions, placed on one side, gives them a very knowing air. One young man in particular, scarcely nineteen from his appearance, displayed the most beautiful countenance and figure which I had ever beheld. He seemed to be _Raphael_ or _Vandyke_ revived. 

[182] See note at page 49-51. 

[183] Since March 1819, called the firm of ARTARIA and FONTAINE. 

[184] Among the prints recently imported from the _latter_ place, was the whole length of the DUKE OF WELLINGTON, engraved by Bromley, from the painting of Sir Thomas Lawrence. I was surprised when M. Artaria told me that he had sold _fifty copies_ of this print--to his Bavarian and Austrian customers. In a large line engraving, of the Meeting of the Sovereigns and Prince Schwartzenberg, after the battle of Leipsic--from the painting of P. Krafft--and published by Artaria and Fontaine in January 1820--it is gratifying to read the name of our SCOTT--as that of the engraver of the piece--although it had been _previously_ placed in other hands. 

[185] [It was brought to England about three years ago, and is YET, I believe, a purchasable article in some Repository. It should at least be _seen_ by the whole tribe of COGNOSCENTI in Pall Mall. ]

[186] See page 439. 

[187] The town is said to abound with Roman antiquities; among which is a triumphal arch of the time of Augustus, and an arcade called the _Romulus_. It was at Rheims where the holy _ampoule_, or oil for consecrating the Kings of France was kept--who were usually crowned here. A Jacobin ruffian, of the name of _Ruht_, destroyed this ampoule during the revolution. This act was succeeded by his own self-destruction. 

[188] CHRISTMAS CAROL: printed by Wynkyn De Worde, 1521, 4to. See _Typog. Antiquities_, vol. Ii. P. 251. 

THE END. 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE

Shakspeare Press, Cleveland Row, St. James's.