BIBLIOGRAPHICAL Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR. 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE

Shakespeare Press. 

[Illustration: T. F. DIBDIN, D. D. 

Engraved by James Thomson from theOriginal Painting by T. Phillips Esq. R. A. 

London. Published June 1829 by R. Jennings, Poultry. ]

ABIBLIOGRAPHICALAntiquarianANDPICTURESQUE TOURINFRANCE AND GERMANY. 

BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D. D. 

MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT. 

SECOND EDITION. 

VOLUME I. 

LONDON:PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR. 1829. 

TO THE REVEREND JOHN LODGE, M. A. FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, ANDLIBRARIAN TO THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE. 

MY DEAR FRIEND, Most grateful it is to me, at all times, to bear in remembrance thosepleasant discussions in which we were wont so frequently to indulge, relating to the LIBRARIES upon the Continent:--but more than ordinarilygratifying to me was _that_ moment, when you told me, that, on crossing theRhine, you took the third volume of my Tour under your arm, and on reachingthe Monasteries of Mölk and Göttwic, gave an off-hand translation to thevenerable Benedictine Inmates of what I had recorded concerning their MSS. And Printed Books, and their hospitable reception of the Author. Istudiously concealed from You, at the time, the whole of the gratificationwhich that intelligence imparted; resolving however that, should this workbe deemed worthy of a second edition, to dedicate that republication toYOURSELF. Accordingly, it now comes forth in its present form, muchenhanced, in the estimation of its Author, by the respectability of thename prefixed to this Dedication; and wishing you many years enjoyment ofthe honourable public situation with which you have been recently, and sodeservedly, invested, allow me to subscribe myself, Your affectionateand obliged Friend, T. F. DIBDIN. 

Wyndham Place, June 30, 1829. 

CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. 

CONTENTS. 

VOLUME I. 

LETTER I. 

_Passage to Dieppe_

LETTER II. 

DIEPPE. _Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques and St. Remy. DivineWorship. Military Mass_

LETTER III. 

_Village and Castle of Arques. Sabbath Amusements. Manners and Customs. Boulevards_

LETTER IV. 

ROUEN. _Approach. Boulevards. Population. Street-Scenery_

LETTER V. 

_Ecclesiastical Architecture. Cathedral. Monuments. Religious Ceremonies. The Abbey of St. Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St. Vincent, St. Vivien, St. Gervais, and St. Paul_

LETTER VI. 

_Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d'Orleans. (Jeanne d'Arc). Basso-Rilievo of the Champ de Drap d'Or. Palace and Courts of Justice_

LETTER VII. 

ROUEN. _The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac. Rue de Robec. Eaux de Robecet d'Aubette. Mont Ste. Catherine. Hospices--Générale et d'Humanité_, LETTER VIII. 

_Early Typography at Rouen. Modern Printers. Chap Books. Booksellers. BookCollectors_

LETTER IX. 

_Departure from Rouen. St. George de Boscherville. Duclair. Marivaux. TheAbbey of Jumieges. Arrival at Caudebec_, LETTER X. 

_Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Montmorenci Castle. Havre deGrace_

LETTER XI. 

_Havre de Grace. Honfleur. Journey to Caen_

LETTER XII. 

CAEN. _Soil. Society. Education. A Duel. Old houses. The Abbey of St. Stephen. Church of St. Pierre de Darnetal. Abbé de la Sainte Trinité. OtherPublic Edifices_

LETTER XIII. 

CAEN. _Literary Society. Abbé de la Rue. Messrs. Pierre-Aimé. Lair andLamouroux. Medal of Malherbe. Booksellers. Memoir of the late M. Moysant, Public Librarian. Courts of Justice_

LETTER XIV. 

BAYEUX. _Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Deacons. Crypt of theCathedral_

LETTER XV. 

BAYEUX. _Visit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apothecary and Book-Vendor. Visitto the Bishop. The Chapter Library. Description of the Bayeux Tapestry. Trade and Manufacture_

LETTER XVI. 

_Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. The Cathedral of Coutances. Environs. Aqueduct. Market-Day. Public Library. Establishment for the Clergy_

LETTER XVII. 

_Journey to Granville. Granville. Ville Dieu. St. Sever. Town and Castleof_ VIRE

LETTER XVIII. 

VIRE. _Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de la Renaudiere. OlivierBasselin. M. Séguin. The Public Library_

LETTER XIX. 

_Departure from Vire. Condé. Pont Ouilly. Arrival at_ FALAISE. _Hotel ofthe Grand Turc. Castle of Falaise. Bibliomaniacal Interview_

LETTER XX. 

_Mons. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinité, Comte de la Fresnaye. GuibrayChurch. Supposed head of William the Conqueror. M. Langevin, Historian ofFalaise. Printing Offices_

LETTER XXI. 

_Journey to Paris. Dreux. Houdan. Versailles. Entrance into Paris_

LIST OF PLATES. 

VOL. I. 

Portrait of the AuthorFille de Chambre, CaenPortrait of the Abbé de la Rue

VOL. II. 

Anne of BrittanyMedal of Louis XIIPisaniDenonComte de BrienneStone Pulpit, Strasbourg Cathedral

VOL. III. 

Fille de Chambre, ManheimMonastery of Saints Ulric and AfraPrater, Vienna

LIST OF AUTOGRAPHS. Vol. Page. 

Artaria, Dom. Manheim iii. 470Barbier, Antoine Alexandre; Paris ii. 204Bartsch, Adam de; Vienna iii. 394Beyschlag, Recteur; Augsbourg iii. 104Brial, Dom; Paris ii. 254Brunet, Libraire; Paris ii. 235Bure, De, Freres; Paris ii. 220Chateaugiron, Marquis de; Paris i. XxxviiiDannecker; Stuttgart iii. 54Denon; Paris ii. 293Gaertner, Corbinian; Salzburg iii. 201Gail; Paris ii. 259Hartenschneider, Udalricus; Chremsminster Monastery iii. 229Henri II. Ii. 151Hess, C. E. ; Munich iii. 165Lamouroux; Caen i. 137Lançon, Durand de; Paris i. XxxviiiLangevin; Falaise i. 341Langlès, L. ; Paris ii. 268Larenaudiere, De; Vire i. 309Lebret, F. C. ; Stuttgart iii. 56May, Jean Gottlob; Augsbourg iii. 104Millin, A. L. ; Paris ii. 264Pallas, Joachim; Mölk Monastery iii. 254Peignot, Gabriel; Dijon i. XxviiPoitiers, Diane de ii. 151Renouard, Ant. Aug. ; Paris ii. 227Schlichtegroll, Frederic; Munich iii. 161Schweighæuser, Fils; Strasbourg ii. 426Van Praet; Paris ii. 278Veesenmeyer, G. ; Ulm iii. 71Willemin; Paris ii. 320Young, . T. ; Vienna iii. 390

PREFACE. 

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 

If I had chosen to introduce myself to the greatest possible advantage tothe reader, in this Preface to a Second Edition of the "_Bibliographical, Antiquarian, and Picturesque Tour_, " I could not have done better than haveborrowed the language of those Foreigners, who, by a translation of theWork (however occasionally vituperative their criticisms) have, in fact, conferred an honour upon its Author. In the midst of censure, sometimesdictated by spite, and sometimes sharpened by acrimony of feeling, it werein my power to select passages of commendation, which would not lesssurprise the Reader than they have done myself: while the history of thisperformance may be said to exhibit the singular phenomenon, of a traveller, usually lauding the countries through which he passes, receiving in returnthe reluctant approbation of those whose institutions, manners, andcustoms, have been praised by him. It is admitted, by the most sedulous andsystematic of my opponents--M. CRAPELET--that "considering the quantity andquality of the ornaments and engravings of this Tour, one is surprised thatits cost is so moderate. "[1]

"Few books (says the Bibliographer of Dijon) have been executed withgreater luxury. It is said that the expenses of printing and engravingamounted to 6000 l. --to nearly 140, 000 franks of our money. It must beadmitted that England is the only country in which such an undertakingcould be carried into effect. Who in France would dare to risk such asum--especially for three, volumes in octavo? He would be ruined, if hedid. "[2] I quote these passages simply to shew under what extraordinaryobliquity of feeling those gentlemen must have set down to the task oftranslation and abuse--of THAT VERY WORK, which is here admitted to containsuch splendid representations of the "bibliographical, antiquarian, andpicturesque" beauties of their country. 

A brief account of this foreign _travail_ may be acceptable to the curiousin literary history. MONS. LICQUET, the successor of M. Gourdin, as ChiefLibrarian to the Public Library at Rouen, led the way in the work ofwarfare. He translated the ninth Letter relating to that Public Library; ofwhich translation especial mention is made at p. 99, post. This version wasprinted in 1821, for private, distribution; and only 100 copies were struckoff. M. Crapelet, in whose office it was printed, felt the embers ofdiscontent rekindled in his bosom as it passed through his press; and inthe following year HE also stepped forward to discharge an arrow at theTraveller. Like his predecessor, he printed but a limited number; and as Ihave more particularly remarked upon the spirit of that version by way of"Introduction" to the original letter, in vol. Ii. 209, &c. I shall notwaste the time of the Reader by any notice of it in the present place. These two partial translators united their forces, about two yearsafterwards, and published the whole of the Tour, as it related to FRANCE, in four octavo volumes, in 1825. The ordinary copies were sold for 48francs, the large paper for 112 francs per copy. The wood-cuts only wererepublished by them. Of this conjoint, and more enlarged production, presently. 

Encouraged by the examples of Messrs. Licquet and Crapelet, a Bookbinder ofthe name of LESNÉ (whose poem upon his "Craft, " published in 1820, had beencopiously quoted and _commended_ by me in the previous edition) chose toplant his foot within this arena of controversy; and to address a letter tome; to which his model, M. Crapelet, was too happy to give circulationthrough the medium of his press. [3] To that letter the following metricallines are prefixed; which the Reader would scarcely forgive me if I failedto amuse him by their introduction in this place. "_Lesné, RelieurFrançais, à Mons. T. F. Dibdin, Ministre de la Religion, &c. _"

 Avec un ris moqueur, je crois vous voir d'ici, Dédaigneusement dire: Eh, que veut celui-ci? Qu'ai-je donc de commun avec un vil artiste? Un ouvrier français, un _Bibliopégiste_? Ose-t-on ravaler un Ministre à ce point? Que me veut ce _Lesné_? Je ne le connais point. Je crois me souvenir qu'à mon voyage en France, Avec ses pauvres vers je nouai connaissance. Mais c'est si peu de chose un poète à Paris! Savez-vous bien, Monsieur, pourquoi je vous écris? C'est que je crois avoir le droit de vous écrire. Fussiez-vous cent fois plus qu'on ne saurait le dire, Je vois dans un Ministre un homme tel que moi; Devant Dieu je crois même être l'égal d'un roi. 

The Letter however is in prose, with some very few exceptions; and it isjust possible that the indulgent Reader may endure a specimen or two of theprose of M. Lesné, as readily as he has that of his poetry. These specimensare equally delectable, of their kind. Immediately after the precedingpoetical burst, the French Bibliopegist continues thus:

 D'après cet exorde, vous pensez sans doute que, bien convaincu de ma dignité d'homme, je me crois en droit de vous dire franchement ma façon de penser; je vous la dirai, Monsieur. Si vous dirigiez un journal bibliographique; que vous fissiez, en un mot, le métier de journaliste, je serai peu surpris de voir dans votre Trentième Lettre, une foule de choses hasardées, de mauvais calembourgs, de grossièretés, que nous ne rencontrons même pas chez nos journalistes du dernier ordre, en ce qu'ils savent mieux leur monde, et que s'ils lancent une epigramme, fût-elle fausse, elle est au moins finement tournée. Mais vous êtes ANGLAIS, et par cela seul dispensé sans doute de cette politesse qui distingue si heureusement notre nation de la vôtre, et que vos compatriotes n'acquièrent pour la plupart qu'après un long séjour en France. " p. 6. 

Towards the latter part of this most formidable "Tentamen Criticum, " theirritable author breaks out thus--"C'est une maladie Française de vouloirtoujours imiter les Anglais; ceux-ci, à leur tour, commencent à en êtreatteints. " p. 19. A little farther it is thus: "Enfin c'est _en imitant_qu'on reussit presque toujours mal; vous en êtes encore, une preuveévidente. J'ai vu en beaucoup d'endroits de votre Lettre, que vous avezvoulu imiter _Sterne_;[4] qu'est-il arrivé? Vous êtes resté au-dessous delui, comme tous les Imitateurs de nôtre bon La Fontaine sont restés en deçàde l'immortel Fabuliste. " p. 20. But most especially does the sensitive M. Lesné betray his surprise and apprehension, on a gratuitoussupposition--thrown out by me, by way of pleasantry--that "Mr. CharlesLewis was going over to Paris, to establish there a modern School ofBookbinding. " M. Lesné thus wrathfully dilates upon this supposition:

 "Je me garderai bien de passer sous silence la dernière partie de votre Lettre; _un bruit assez étrange est venu jusqu'à vous_; et Charles Lewis doit vous quitter pour quelque temps pour établir en France une école de reliure d'apres les principes du gôut anglais; mais vous croyez, dites-vous, que ce projet est sûrement chimérique, ou que, si on le tentait, il serait de courte durée. 

 Pour cette fois, Monsieur, votre pronostic serait très juste; cette demarche serait une folie: il faudrait s'abuser sur l'engouement des amateurs français, et ceux qui sont atteints de cette maladie ne sont pas en assez grand nombre pour soutenir un pareil établissement. Oui, l'on aime votre genre de reliure; mais on aime les reliures, façon anglaise, faites par les Français. Pensez-vous done, ou Charles Lewis pense-t-il, qu'il n'y ait plus d'esprit national en France?

 Allez, le sang Française coule encore dans nos veines; Nous pourrons éprouver des malheurs et des peines, Que nous devrons peut être à vous autres Anglais; Mais nous voulons rester, nous resterons, Français!

 Ainsi, que Charles Lewis ne se dérange pas; qu'il cesse, s'il les a commencés, les préparatifs de sa descente; qu'il ne prive pas ses compatriotes d'un artiste soi-disant inimitable. Nous en avons ici qui le valent, et qui se feront un plaisir de perpéteur parmi nous le bon gôut, l'élégance, et la noble simplicité. P. 25. [5]

So much for M. Lesne. I have briefly noticed M. Peignot, the Bibliographerof Dijon. That worthy wight has made the versions of my Ninth and ThirtiethLetters (First Edition) by M. M. Licquet and Crapelet, the substratum of hisfirst brochure entitled _Variétés, Notices et Raretés Bibliographiques_, _Paris_, 1822: it being a supplement to his previous Work of _CuriositésBibliographiques_. "[6] It is not always agreeable for an Author to have hisWorks reflected through the medium of a translation; especially where theTranslator suffers a portion, however small, of his _own_ atrabiliousness, to be mixed up with the work translated: nor is it always safe for a thirdperson to judge of the merits of the original through such a medium. Muchallowance must therefore be made for M. Peignot; who, to say the truth, atthe conclusion of his labours, seems to think that he has waded through agreat deal of _dirt_ of some kind or other, which might have been betteravoided; and that, in consequence, some general declaration, by way of_wiping, off_ a portion of the adhering mud, is due to the original Author. Accordingly, at the end of his analysis of M. Licquet's version, (whichforms the second Letter in the brochure) he does me the honour to devoteseven pages to the notice of my humble lucubrations:--and he prefaces this"_Notice des Ouvrages de M. Dibdin"_, by the following very handsometribute to their worth:

 Si, dans les deux Lettres où nous avons rendu compte des traductions partielles du voyage de M. D. , nous avons partagé l'opinion des deux estimable traducteurs, sur quelques erreurs et quelques inconvenances échappées a l'auteur anglais, nous sommes bien éloigné d'envelopper dans le même blame, tout ce qui est sorté de sa plume; car il y auroit injustice a lui refuser des connaissances très étendues en histoire littéraire, et en bibliographie: nous le disons franchement, il faudroit fermer les yeux à la lumière, ou être d'une partialité revoltante, pour ne pas convenir que, juste appréciateur de tous les trésors bibliographiques qu'il a le bonheur d'avoir sous la main, M. Dibdin en a fait connoitre en détail toute la richesse dans de nombreux d'ouvrages, ou très souvent le luxe d'érudition se trouve en harmonie avec le luxe typographique qu'il y a étalé. 

At the risk of incurring the imputation of vanity, I annex the precedingextract; because I am persuaded that the candid Reader will appreciate itin its proper light. I might, had I chosen to do so, have lengthened theextract by a yet more complimentary passage: but enough of M. Peignot--who, so far from suffering ill will or acerbity to predominate over a kinddisposition, hath been pleased, since his publication, to write to me avery courteous Letter, [7] and to solicit a "continuance of my favours. "

Agreeably to the intimation expressed in a preceding page, I am now, in dueorder, to notice the labours of my translators M. M. LICQUET and CRAPELET. Their united version appeared in 1825, in four octavo volumes, of which thesmall paper was but indifferently well printed. [8] The preface to the firsttwo volumes is by M. Licquet: and it is not divested of point and merit. Itbegins by attacking the _Quarterly Review_, (June 1821, p. 147. ) for itsseverity of animadversion on the supposed listlessness and want ofcuriosity of the French in exploring the architectural antiquities of theircountry; and that, in consequence of such supineness, the English, considering them as their own property, have described them accordingly. "The decision (says the French translator) is severe; happily it is withoutfoundation. " After having devoted several pages to observations by way ofreply to that critical Journal, M. Licquet continues thus:--unless I haveunintentionally misrepresented him. 

 The Englishman who travels in Normandy, meets, at every step, with reminiscences of his kings, his ancestors, his institutions, and his customs. Churches yet standing, after the lapse of seven centuries; majestic ruins; tombs--even to the very sound of the clock--all unite in affecting, here, the heart of a British subject: every thing seems to tell him that, in former times, HERE was his country; here the residence of his sovereigns; and here the cradle of his manners. This was more than sufficient to enflame the lively imagination of Mr. D. And to decide him to visit, in person, a country already explored by a great number of his countrymen; but he conceived that his narrative should embody other topics than those which ordinarily appeared in the text of his predecessors. 

 "His work then is not only a description of castles, towns, churches, public monuments of every kind:--it is not only a representation of the general aspect of the country, as to its picturesque appearances--but it is an extended, minute, though occasionally inexact, account of public and private libraries; with reflections upon certain customs of the country, and upon the character of those who inhabit it. It is in short the personal history of the author, throughout the whole length of his journey. Not the smallest incident, however indifferent, but what has a place in the letters of the Bibliographer. Thus, he mentions every Inn where he stops: recommends or scolds the landlord--according to his civility or exaction. Has the author passed a bad night? the reader is sure to know it on the following morning. On the other hand, has he had a good night's rest in a comfortable bed? [dans un lit _comfortable_?] We are as sure to know this also, as soon as he awakes:--and thus far we are relieved from anxiety about the health of the traveller. Cold and heat--fine weather and bad weather--every variation of atmosphere is scrupulously recorded. 

What immediately follows, is unworthy of M. Licquet; because it not onlyimplies a charge of a heinous description--accusing me of an insidiousintrusion into domestic circles, a violation of confidence, and asystematic derision of persons and things--but because the Frenchtranslator, exercising that sense and shrewdness which usually distinguishhim, MUST have known that such a charge _could_ not have been founded inFACT. He must have known that any gentleman, leaving England with thoseletters which brought me in contact with some of the first circles on theContinent, MUST have left it without leaving his character _behind_ him;and that such a character could not, in the natural order of things--seeneven through the sensitive medium of a French critic--have been guilty ofthe grossness and improprieties imputed to me by M. Licquet. I treattherefore this "damnation in wholesale" with scorn and contempt: and hastento impress the reader with a more favourable opinion of my Normantranslator. He _will_ have it that

 "the English Traveller's imagination is lively and ardent--and his spirit, that of raillery and lightness. He examines as he runs along; that is to say, he does not give himself time to examine; he examines ill; he deceives himself; and he subjects his readers to be deceived with him. He traverses, at a hard trot, one of the most ancient towns in France; puts his head out of his carriage window--and boldly decides that the town is of the time of Francis I. "![9] p. Xviij. 

There is pleasantry, and perhaps some little truth, in this vein ofobservation; and it had been better, perhaps, for the credit of the goodtaste and gentleman-like feeling of Mons. Licquet, if he had uniformlymaintained his character in these respects. I have however, in thesubsequent pages, [10] occasionally grappled with my annotator in provingthe fallacy, or the want of charity, of many of his animadversions: and thereader probably may not be displeased, if, by way of "avant propos, " Iindulge him here with a specimen of them--taken from his preface. M. Licquet says, that I "create scenes; arrange a drama; trace characters;imagine a dialogue, frequently in French--and in what French--graciousGod!--in assigning to postilions a ridiculous language, and to men of theworld the language of postilions. " These be sharp words:[11] but what doesthe Reader imagine may be the probable "result" of the English Traveller'sinadvertencies?... A result, ("gracious Heaven!") very little anticipatedby the author. Let him ponder well upon the awful language which ensues. "What (says M. Licquet) will quickly be the result, with us, of suchindiscretions as those of which M. Dibdin is guilty? The necessity ofSHUTTING OUR PORTS, or at least of placing a GUARD UPON OUR LIPS!" There issome consolation however left for me, in balancing this tremendousdenunciation by M. Licquet's eulogy of my good qualities--which a naturaldiffidence impels me to quote in the original words of their author. 

 "A Dieu ne plaise, toutefois, que j'accuse ici LE COEUR de M. Dibdin. Je n'ai jamais eu l'honneur de le voir: je ne le connais que par ses ecrits; principalement par son _Splendid Tour_, et je ne balance pas à déclarer que l'auteur doit être doué d'une ame honnête, et de ces qualités fondamentales qui constituent l'homme de bien. Il préfère sa croyance; mais il respecte la croyance des autres; son érudition parait.... [12] variée. Son amour pour les antiquités est immense; et par antiquités j'entends ici tout ce qui est _antique_ ou seulement _ancien_, quellesque soient d'ailleurs la nature et la forme des objets. " Pref. P. Xv. Xvij. 

Once more; and to conclude with M. Licquet. After these generalobservations upon the _Text_ of the Tour, M. Licquet favours us with thefollowing--upon the _Plates_. "These plates (says he) are intended torepresent some of the principal monuments; the most beautiful landscapes, and the most remarkable persons, comprehending even the servants of an inn. If _talent_ be sought in these Engravings, it will doubtless be found inthem; but strangers must not seek for _fidelity_ of representation fromwhat is before their eyes. The greater number of the Designs are, in somesort, ideal compositions, which, by resembling every thing, resemblenothing in particular: and it is worthy of remark that the Artist, inimitation of the Author, seems to have thought that he had only to shewhimself _clever_, without troubling himself to be _faithful_. " To this, Ireply in the very words of M. Licquet himself: "the decision is severe;luckily it is unjust. " The only portions of the designs of their skilfulauthor, which may be taxed with a tendency to extravagance, are the_groups_: which, when accompanied by views of landscapes, or of monuments, are probably too profusely indulged in; but the _individuals_, constitutingthose groups, belong precisely to the _country_ in which they arerepresented. In the first and second volumes they are _French_; in thethird they are _Germans_--all over. Will M. Licquet pretend to say that thechurches, monasteries, streets, and buildings, with which the previousEdition of this Tour is so elaborately embellished, have the slightesttendency to IMAGINED SCENERY? If he do, his optics must be peculiarly hisown. I have, in a subsequent page, (p. 34, note) slightly alluded to thecost and risk attendant on the Plates; but I may confidently affirm, fromexperience, that two thirds of the expense incurred would have secured thesame sale at the same price. However, the die is cast; and the voice oflamentation is fruitless. 

I now come to the consideration of M. Licquet's coadjutor, M. CRAPELET. Although the line of conduct pursued by that very singular gentleman be ofan infinitely more crooked description than that of his Predecessor, yet, in this place, I shall observe less respecting it; inasmuch as, in thesubsequent pages, (pp. 209, 245, 253, 400, &c. ) the version and annotationsof M. Crapelet have been somewhat minutely discussed. Upon the SPIRIT whichcould give rise to such a version, and such annotations, I will here onlyobserve, that it very much resembles that of searchers of ourstreet-pavements; who, with long nails, scrape out the dirt from theinterstices of the stones, with the hope of making a discovery of some losttreasure which may compensate the toil of perseverance. The love of lucremay, or may not, have influenced my Parisian translator; but the love ofdiscovery of latent error, and of exposure of venial transgression, hasundoubtedly, from beginning to end, excited his zeal and perseverance. Thatcarping spirit, which shuts its eyes upon what is liberal and kind, andwithholds its assent to what is honourable and just, it is thedistinguished lot--and, perhaps, as the translator may imagine, thedistinguished felicity--of M. Crapelet to possess. Never was greaterreluctance displayed in admitting even the palpable truths of a text, thanwhat is displayed in the notes of M. Crapelet: and whenever a concurringsentiment comes from him, it seems to exude like his heart's life-blood. Having already answered, in detail, his separate publication confined to my30th Letter[13]--(the 8th of the second volume, in _this_ edition) andhaving replied to those animadversions which appear in his translation ofthe whole of the second volume, in this edition--it remains here only toconsign the Translator to the careful and impartial consideration of theReader, who, it is requested, may be umpire between both parties. Not toadmit that the text of this Edition is in many places improved, from thesuggestions of my Translators, by corrections of "Names of Persons, Places, and Things, " would be to betray a stubbornness or obtuseness of feelingwhich certainly does not enter into the composition of its author. 

I now turn, not without some little anxiety, yet not wholly divested of thehope of a favourable issue, to the character and object of the Edition HEREpresented to the Public. It will be evident, at first glance, that it isgreatly "shorn of its beams" in regard to graphic decorations andtypographical splendour. Yet its garb, if less costly, is not made ofcoarse materials: for it has been the wish and aim of the Publishers, thatthis impression should rank among books worthy of the DISTINGUISHED PRESSfrom which it issues. Nor is it unadorned by the sister art of _Engraving_;for, although on a reduced scale, some of the repeated plates may evendispute the palm of superiority with their predecessors. Several of theGROUPS, executed on _copper_ in the preceding edition, have been executedon _wood_ in the present; and it is for the learned in these matters todecide upon their relative merits. To have attempted portraits upon wood, would have inevitably led to failure. There are however, a few NEW PLATES, which cannot fail to elicit the Purchaser's particular attention. Of these, the portraits of the _Abbé de la Rue_ (procured through the kind offices ofmy excellent friend Mr. Douce), and the _Comte de Brienne_, the _Gold Medalof Louis XII_. The _Stone Pulpit of Strasbourg Cathedral, _ and the _Praternear Vienna_--are particularly to be noticed. [14] This Edition has alsoanother attraction, rather popular in the present day, which may add to itsrecommendation even with those possessed of its precursor. It containsfac-similes of the AUTOGRAPHS of several distinguished Literati and Artistsupon the Continent;[15] who, looking at the text of the work through a lessjaundiced medium than the Parisian translator, have continued acorrespondence with the Author, upon the most friendly terms, since itspublication. The accuracy of these fac-similes must be admitted, even bythe parties themselves, to be indisputable. Among them, are several, executed by hands.. Which now CEASE to guide the pen! I had long and fondlyhoped to have been gratified by increasing testimonies of the warmth ofheart which had directed several of the pens in question--hoped ... Evenagainst the admonition of a pagan poet ... 

 "Vitae summa brevis SPEM nos vetat inchoare LONGAM. "

But such hopes are now irretrievably cut off; and the remembrance of thepast must solace the anticipations of the future. 

So much respecting the _decorative_ department of this new edition of theTour. I have now to request the Reader's attention to a few points moreimmediately connected with what may be considered its _intrinsic_ worth. Inthe first place, it may be pronounced to be an Edition both _abridged_ and_enlarged_: abridged, as regards the lengthiness of description of many ofthe MSS. And Printed Books--and enlarged, as respects the addition, of manynotes; partly of a controversial, and partly of an obituary, description. The "Antiquarian and Picturesque" portions remain nearly as heretofore; andupon the whole I doubt whether the amputation of matter has extended beyond_an eighth_ of what appeared in the previous edition. It had long ago beensuggested to me--from a quarter too high and respectable to doubt thewisdom of its decision--that the Contents of this Tour should be made knownto the Public through a less costly medium:--that the objects described init were, in a measure, new and interesting--but that the high price of thepurchase rendered it, to the majority of Readers, an inaccessiblepublication. I hope that these objections are fully met, and successfullyset aside, by the Work in its PRESENT FORM. To have produced it, _whollydivested_ of ornament, would have been as foreign to my habits as repugnantto my feelings. I have therefore, as I would willingly conclude, hit uponthe happy medium--between sterility and excess of decoration. 

After all, the greater part of the ground here trodden, yet continues to beuntrodden ground to the public. I am not acquainted with any publicationwhich embraces all the objects here described; nor can I bring myself tothink that a perusal of the first and third volumes may not be unattendedwith gratification of a peculiar description, to the lovers of antiquitiesand picturesque beauties. The second volume is rather the exclusiveprovince of the Bibliographer. In retracing the steps here marked out, Iwill not be hypocrite enough to dissemble a sort of triumphant feelingwhich accompanies a retrospection of the time, labour, and money devoted.. In doing justice, according to my means, to the attractions and worth ofthe Countries which these pages describe. Every such effort is, in its way, a NATIONAL effort. Every such attempt unites, in stronger bonds, thereciprocities of a generous feeling between rival Nations; and if my rewardhas not been in _wealth_, it has been in the hearty commendation of theenlightened and the good: "Mea me virtute involvo. "[16]

I cannot boast of the commendatory strains of public Journals in my owncountry. No intellectual steam-engine has been put in motion to manufacturea review of unqualified approbation of the Work now submitted to the publiceye--at an expense, commensurate with the ordinary means of purchase. Withthe exception of an indirect and laudatory notice of it, in the immortalpages of the Author of Waverley, of the Sketch book, and of ReginaldDalton, this Tour has had to fight its way under the splendour of its ownbanners, and in the strength of its own cause. The previous Edition is nowa scarce and a costly book. Its Successor has enough to recommend it, evento the most fastidious collector, from the elegance of its type anddecorations, and from the reasonableness of its price; but the highestambition of its author is, that it may be a part of the furniture of everyCirculating Library in the Kingdom. If he were not conscious that GOODwould result from its perusal, he would not venture upon such an avowal. "FELIX FAUSTUMQUE SIT!"

[1] M. Crapelet is of course speaking of the PREVIOUS edition of the Tour. He continues thus: "M. Dibdin, dans son voyage en France, a visité nos départemens de l'ouest et de l'est, toutes leurs principales villes, presque tous les lieux remarquables par les antiquités, par les monumens, par les beautés du site, ou par les souvenirs historiques. Il a visité les châteaux, les églises, les chapelles; il a observé nos moeurs, nos coutumes; nos habitudes; il a examiné nos Musées et nos premiers Cabinets de curiosité; il s'est concentré dans nos Bibliothéques. Il parle de notre littérature et des hommes de lettres, des arts et de nos artistes; il critique les personnes comme les choses; il loue quelquefois, il plaisante souvent; la vivacité de son esprit l'égare presque toujours. " A careful perusal of the notes in THIS edition will shew that my veracity has not "almost always led me astray. "

[2] GABRIEL PEIGNOT; _Variétés, Notices et Raretés Bibliographiques, 1822, 8vo. P. 4_. 

[3] _Lettre d'un Relieur Francais à un Bibliographe Anglais; à Paris, de l'Imprimerie de Crapelet_, 1822, 8vo. P. P. 28. 

[4] It is a little curious that M. Lesné has not been singular in this supposition. My amiable and excellent friend M. Schweighæuser of Strasbourg had the same notion: at least, he told me that the style of the Tour very frequently reminded him of that of Sterne. I can only say--and say very honestly--that I as much thought of Sterne as I did of ... William Caxton!

[5] Copious as are the above quotations, from the thoroughly original M. Lesné, I cannot resist the risking of the readers patience and good opinion, by the subjoining of the following passage--with which the brochure concludes. "D'après la multitude de choses hasardées que contient votre Lettre, vous en aurez probablement recu quelques unes de personnes que vous aurez choquées plus que moi, qui vous devrais plutôt des remercimens pour avoir pris la peine de traduire quelques pages de mon ouvrage; mais il n'en est pas de même de bien des gens, et cela ne doit pas les engager à être autant communicatif avec vous, si vous reveniez en France. Je souhaite, dans ce dernier cas, que tous les typographes, les bibliothècaires, les bibliognostes, les bibliographes, les bibliolathes, les bibliomanes, les biblophiles, les bibliopoles, ceux qui exercent la bibliuguiancie et les bibliopégistes même, soient pour vous autant de bibliotaphes; vous ne seriez plus à même de critiquer ce que vous sauriez et ce que vous ne sauriez pas, comme vous l'aviez si souvent fait inconsidérément:

 Mais tous vos procédés ne nous étonnent pas, C'est le sort des Français de faire DES INGRATS; On les voit servir ceux qui leur furent nuisibles; Je crois que sur ce point ils sont incorrigibles. 

 Je vous avouerai cependant que je suis loin d'être fâché de vous voir en agir ainsi envers mes compatriotes: je désirerais que beaucoup d'Anglais fissent de même; cela pourrait désangliciser ou désanglomaniser les Français. Vous, Monsieur, qui aimez les mots nouveaux, aidez-moi, je vous prie, à franciser, à purifier celui-ci. Quant à moi

 Je ne fus pas nourri de Grec et de Latin, J'appris à veiller tard, à me lever matin, La nature est le livre où je fis mes études, Et tous ces mots nouveaux me semblent long-temps rudes; Je trouve qu'on ne peut très bien les prononcer Sans affectation, au moins sans grimacer; Que tous ces mots tirés des langues étrangères, Devraient être l'objet de critiques sévères. Faites donc de l'esprit en depit du bon sens, On vous critiquera; quant à moi j'y consens. 

 Je terminerai cette longue Lettre de deux manières: à l'anglaise, en vous souhaitant le bon jour ou le bon soir, suivant l'heure à laquelle vous la recevrez; à la française, en vous priant de me croire, Monsieur, Votre très humble serviteur, LESNÉ. 

[6] The above brochure consists of two Letters; each to an anonymous bibliographical "Confrere:" one is upon the subject of M. Crapelet's version--the other, upon that of M. Licquet's version--of a portion of the Tour. The notice of the Works of the Author of the Tour; a list of the prices for which the Books mentioned in it have been sold; a Notice of the "Hours of Charlemagne" (see vol. Ii. 199) and some account of the late Mr. Porson "Librarian of the London Institution"--form the remaining portion of this little volume of about 160 pages. For the "Curiosités Bibliographiques, " consult the _Bibliomania_, pp. 90, 91, &c. &c. 

[7] This letter accompanied another Work of M. Peignot, relating to editions and translations of the Roman Classics:--and as the reader will find, in the ensuing pages, that I have been sometime past labouring under the frightful, but popular, mania of AUTOGRAPHS, I subjoin with no small satisfaction a fac-simile of the Autograph of this enthusiastic and most diligent Bibliographer. 

 [Autograph: Votre tres humble et obéissant serviteur, G. Peignot]

[8] See page xviii. --ante. 

[9] M. Licquet goes on to afford an exemplification of this precipitancy of conjecture, in my having construed the word _Allemagne_--a village near to Caen--by that of _Germany_. I refer the reader to p. 168 post, to shew with what perfect frankness I have admitted and corrected this "_hippopotamos_" error. 

[10] More especially at pages 82, 100, 367. 

[11] "Sharp" as they may be, they are softened, in some measure, by the admission of my bitterest annotator, M. Crapelet, that "I speak and understand the French language well. " vol. Ii. P. 253. It is painful and unusual with me to have recourse to such apparently self-complimentary language; but when an adversary drives one into a corner, and will not allow of fair space and fair play, one must fight with feet as well as with hands ... "manibus pedibusque" ... 

[12] This _hiatus_ must not be filled by the Author: ... "haud equidem tali me dignor honore. "

[13] See vol. Ii. P. 210-11. 

[14] See vol. I. P. 186, vol. Ii. Pp. 49, 296, 392. The other fresh plates are, _Portrait of the Author_, frontispiece; Bird's-eye views of the _Monasteries of St. Peter's, Salzburg, and of Molk:_ vol. Iii. Pp. 195, 248, 381, _Black Eagle Inn_, Munich, p. 156. But the Reader will be pleased to examine the _List of Plates prefixed_--in a preceding page. 

[15] Among these distinguished Literati, I here enrol with peculiar satisfaction the names of the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUGIRON and Mons. DURAND DE LANCON. No opportunity having occurred in the subsequent pages to incorporate fac-similes of the Autographs of these distinguished _Bibliophiles_, they are annexed in the present place. 

 [Autographs: M. De Chateaugiron, D. De Lancon]

[16] It is more than a negative consolation to me, to have lived to see the day, that, although comparatively impoverished, _others_ have been enriched by my labours. When I noticed a complete set of my lucubrations on LARGE PAPER, valued at 250_l_. In a bookseller's catalogue, (Mr. Pickering's) and afterwards learnt that this set had found a PURCHASER, I had reason to think that I had "deserved well" of the Literature of my country: and I resolved to live "mihi carior" in consequence. 

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL

Antiquarian

AND

PICTURESQUE TOUR. 

The Notes peculiar to THIS EDITION are distinguished by being insertedbetween brackets: as thus:--[]

*** The Index is placed at the end of the First Volume, for the purpose ofequalising the size of the Volumes. 

[Illustration]

LETTER I. 

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. 

_Dieppe, April 20, 1818_. 

At length then, my dear Friend, the long projected "_Bibliographical, Antiquarian_, [17] and _Picturesque Tour"_ is carried into execution; andthe Tourist is safely landed on the shores of Normandy. "Vous voilà donc, Monsieur à Dieppe!"--exclaimed the landlord of the Grand Hôteld'Angleterre--as I made my way through a vociferating crowd of old andyoung, of both sexes, with cards of addresses in their hands; entreating meto take up my abode at their respective hotels.... But I know your love ofmethod, and that you will be angry with me if I do not "begin at thebeginning. "

It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that I left my home, onthe 14th of this present month, for the land of castles, churches, andancient chivalry. The wind from the south-east was blowing pretty smartlyat the time; but the sky was without a cloud, and I could not but look uponthe brilliancy of every external object as a favourable omen of theprogress and termination of my tour. Adverse winds, or the indolence orunwillingness of the Captain, detained us at Brighton two wholedays--instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the day followingour arrival. We were to form the first ship's company which had visitedFrance this season. On approaching our gallant little bark, the_Nancy_, [18] commanded by Captain BLABER, the anchor was weighed, andhoisting sail, we stood out to sea. The day began to improve upon us. Thegloomy appearances of the morning gradually brightened up. A host of blackclouds rolled heavily away. The sun at length shone in his full meridiansplendour, and the ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves. As Isupposed us to near the French coast, I strained my eyes to obtain an earlyglimpse of something in the shape of cliff or jettie. But the windcontinued determinedly in the south east: the waves rose in larger masses;and our little vessel threw up a heavy shower of foam as we entered on thevarious tacks. 

It is a grand sight--that vast, and apparently interminable ocean--

 .... Maria undique et undique coelum!

We darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack for the French coast: and asthe sun declined, we found it most prudent to put the Captain's advice, ofgoing below, into execution. Then commenced all the miseries of the voyage. The moon had begun to assert her ascendancy, when, racked with torture andpain in our respective berths, a tremendous surge washed completely overthe deck, sky-light, and binnacle: and down came, in consequence, drenchedwith the briny wave, the hardiest of our crew, who, till then, had venturedto linger upon deck. That crew was various; and not without a few of thenatives of those shores which we were about to visit. 

To cut short my ship-narrative, suffice it only farther to say, that, towards midnight, we heard our Captain exclaim that he saw "the lights ofDieppe"--a joyful sound to us miserable wretches below. I well remember, atthis moment, looking up towards the deck with a cheerless eye, andperceiving the light of the moon still lingering upon the main-sail, --but Ishall never forget how much more powerfully my sensations were excited, when, as the dawn of day made objects visible, I looked up, and saw an oldwrinkle-visaged sailor, with a red night cap on begirt with large blue, puckered, short petticoats--in possession of the helm--about to steer thevessel into harbour![19]

About seven we were all upon deck. The sea was yet swoln and agitated, andof a dingy colour: while

 .... Heavily with clouds came on the day, as we slowly approached the outward harbour of DIEPPE. A grey morning withdrizzling rain, is not the best accompaniment of a first visit to a foreignshore. Nevertheless every thing was new, and strange, and striking; and thehuge crucifix, to the right, did not fail to make a very forcibleimpression. As we approached the, inner harbour, the shipping and thebuildings more distinctly presented themselves. The harbour is large, andthe vessels are entirely mercantile, with a plentiful sprinkling of fishingsmacks: but the manner in which the latter harmonized with the tint andstructure of the houses--the bustle upon shore--the casks, deal planks, ropes, and goods of every description upon the quays, --all formed a mostanimated and interesting scene. The population seemed countless, andchiefly females; whose high caps and enormous ear-rings, with the rest oftheir paraphernalia, half persuaded me that instead of being some fewtwenty-five leagues only from our own white cliffs, I had in fact droptupon the Antipodes! What a scene (said I to my companion) for our CALCOTTto depict![20] It was a full hour before we landed--saluted, and evenassailed on all sides, with entreaties to come to certain hotels. We werenot long however in fixing our residence at the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, ofwhich the worthy Mons. De La Rue[21] is the landlord. 

[17] [Mons. Licquet, my translator, thinks, that in using the word "_Antiquaire_"--as appears in the previous edition of this work, incorporated in the gallicised sentence of "_Voyage Bibliographique Antiquaire_, &c. "--I have committed an error; as the word "_Archéologique_" ought, in his opinion, to have been adopted--and he supposes that he best expresses my meaning by its adoption. Such a correction may be better French; but "Archaeological" is not exactly what is usually meant--in our language--by "Antiquarian. "]

[18] This smart little vessel, of about 70 tons burden, considered to be the fastest sailing packet from Dieppe, survived our voyage only about eighteen months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul on board of her. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound for Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew was with difficulty saved--and the vessel went down within about twenty-five minutes after the shock. 

[19] The English are not permitted to bring their own vessels into harbour--for obvious reasons. 

[20] [This "scene" has been, in fact, subsequently depicted by. The masterly pencil of J. M. W. TURNER, Esq. R. A: and the picture, in which almost all the powers of that surprising Artist are concentrated, was lately offered for sale by public auction. How it was suffered to be _bought in_ for three hundred and eighty guineas, is at once a riddle and a reproach to public taste. ]

[21] [I learn that he is since DECEASED. Thus the very first chapter of this second edition has to record an instance of the casualties and mutabilities which the short space of ten years has effected. Mons. De la Rue was a man of worth and of virtue. ]

LETTER II. 

DIEPPE. FISHERIES. STREETS. CHURCHES OF ST. JAQUES AND ST. REMY. DIVINEWORSHIP. MILITARY MASS. 

The town of Dieppe contains a population of about twenty-thousandsouls. [22] Of these, by much the greater _stationary_ part are females;arising from one third at least of the males being constantly engaged inthe FISHERIES. As these fisheries are the main support of the inhabitants, it is right that you should know something about them. The _herring_fishery takes place twice a year: in August and October. The August fisheryis carried on along the shores of England and the North. From sixty toeighty vessels, of from twenty-five to thirty tons burthen each, with aboutfifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They are freighted withsalt and empty barrels, for seasoning and stowing the fish, and they returnabout the end of October. The herrings caught in August are considerablypreferable to those caught in October. The October fishery is carried onwith smaller vessels, along the coast of France from Boulogne to Havre. From one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and thirty vessels, are engagedin this latter navigation; and the fish, which is smaller, and of inferiorflavour to that caught upon the English coasts, is sent almost entirely tothe provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh. So much for theherring. [23]

The _Mackarel_ fishery usually commences towards the month of July, alongthe coast of Picardy; because, being a sort of fish of passage, it getsinto the channel in the month of April. It then moves towards the straitsof Dover, as summer approaches. For this fishery they make use of largedecked-vessels, from twenty to fifty tons burthen, manned with from twelveto twenty men. There are however Dieppe boats employed in this fisherywhich go as far as the Scilly Islands and Ushant, towards the middle ofApril. They carry with them the salt requisite to season the fish, whichare afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces in the interior ofFrance. The _cod fishery_ is divided into the fresh and dried fish. Theformer continues from the beginning of February to the end of April--andthe vessels employed, which go as far as Newfoundland, are two deckers, andfrom one hundred to one hundred and fifty tons burthen--although, in fact, they rarely carry more than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling the fish. Thedried-cod fishery is carried on in vessels of all sizes; but it isessential that they be of a certain depth, because the fish is morecumbersome than weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about themonth of March or April, in order that they may have the advantage of thesummer season, to dry the fish. There are vessels which go to Newfoundlandladen with brandy, flour, beans, treacle, linen and woollen cloths, whichthey dispose of to the inhabitants of the French colonies in exchange fordried cod. This latter species of commerce may be carried on in the summermonths--as late as July. 

In the common markets for retail trade, they are not very nice in thequality or condition of their fish; and enormous conger eels, which wouldbe instantly rejected by the middling, or even lower classes in England, are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and relished with glee. A few francswill procure a dish of fish large enough for a dozen people. The quays areconstantly crowded, but there seems to be more of bustle than of business. The town is certainly picturesque, notwithstanding the houses are verylittle more than a century old, and the streets are formal andcomparatively wide. Indeed it should seem that the houses were builtexpressly for Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are inhabited bytradesmen, mechanics, and artizans, in apparently very indifferentcircumstances. I scarcely saw six private houses which could be calledelegant, and not a gentleman's carriage has been yet noticed in thestreets. But if the _Dieppois_ are not rich, they seem happy, and are in aconstant state of occupation. A woman sells her wares in an open shop, orin an insulated booth, and sits without her bonnet (as indeed do all thetradesmen's wives), and works or sings as humour sways her. A man sellsgingerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his customer's coming, reads some popular history or romance. Most of the upper windows are whollydestitute of glass; but are smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers. The fragrance emitted from these flowers affords no unpleasing antidote toodors of a very different description; and here we begin to have a tooconvincing proof of the general character of the country in regard to thewant of cleanliness. A little good sense, or rather a better-regulatedpolice, would speedily get rid of such nuisances. The want of public sewersis another great and grievous cause of smells of every description. AtDieppe there are fountains in abundance; and if some of the limpid streams, which issue from them, were directed to cleansing the streets, (which areexcellently well paved) the effect would be both more salubrious andpleasant--especially to the sensitive organs of Englishmen. 

We had hardly concluded our breakfasts, when a loud and clattering soundwas heard; and down came, in a heavy trot, with sundry ear-piercingcrackings of the whip, the thundering _Diligence_: large, lofty, and ofmost unwieldy dimensions: of a structure, too, strong enough to carry ahalf score of elephants. The postilion is an animal perfectly _suigeneris_: gay, alert, and living upon the best possible terms with himself. He wears the royal livery, red and blue; with a plate of the fleur de lisupon his left arm. His hair is tied behind, in a thick, short, tightlyfastened queue: with powder and pomatum enough to weather a whole winter'sstorm and tempest. [24] As he never rises in his stirrups, [25] I leave youto judge of the merciless effects of this ever-beating club upon thetexture of his jacket. He is however fond of his horses: is well known bythem; and there is all flourish and noise, and no sort of cruelty, in histreatment of them. His spurs are of tremendous dimensions; such as we seesticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss. Of the XVth century. He has nothing to do with the ponderous machine behind him. He sits uponthe near of the two wheel horses, with three horses before him. Histurnings are all adroitly and correctly made; and, upon the whole, he is aclever fellow in the exercise of his office. 

You ought to know, that, formerly, this town was greatly celebrated for itsmanufactures in _Ivory_; but the present aspect of the ivory-market affordsonly a faint notion of what it might have been in the sixteenth andseventeenth centuries. I purchased a few subordinate articles (chiefly of areligious character) and which I shall preserve rather as a matter ofevidence than of admiration. There is yet however a considerablemanufacture of _thread lace_; and between three and four thousand femalesare supposed to earn a comfortable livelihood by it. [26]

My love of ecclesiastical architecture quickly induced me to visit theCHURCHES; and I set out with two English gentlemen to pay our respects tothe principal church, St. JAQUES. As we entered it, a general gloomprevailed, and a sort of premature evening came on; while the clatter ofthe sabots was sufficiently audible along the aisles. In making the circuitof the side chapels, an unusual light proceeded from a sort of grated doorway. We approached, and witnessed a sight which could not fail to rivet ourattention. In what seemed to be an excavated interior, were severalfigures, cut in stone, and coloured after life, (of which they were thesize) representing the _Three Maries, St. John, and Joseph of Arimathea_.. In the act of entombing Christ: the figure of our Saviour being half sunkinto the tomb. The whole was partially illuminated by some two dozen ofshabby and nearly consumed tallow candles; affording a striking contrast tothe increasing darkness of the nave and the side aisles. We retired, moreand more struck with the novelty of every object around us, to our supperand beds, which were excellent; and a good night's rest made me forget themiseries of the preceding evening. 

The next morning, being Sunday, we betook ourselves in good time to theservice of ST. JAQUES:[27] but on our way thither, we saw a waxen figure ofChrist (usually called an "Ecce Homo") enclosed within a box, of which thedoors were opened. The figure and box are the property of the man who playson a violin, close to the box; and who is selling little mass books, supposed to be rendered more sacred by having been passed across the feetand hands of the waxen Christ. Such a mongrel occupation, and such a motleygroup, must strike you with astonishment--as a Sunday morning's recreation. 

[Illustration]

By half past ten the congregation had assembled within the Church; andevery side-chapel (I think about twelve in number) began to be filled bythe penitent flocks: each bringing, or hiring, a rush-bottomed chair--withwhich the churches are pretty liberally furnished, and of which the _Tarif_(or terms of hire) is pasted upon the walls. There were, I am quite sure, full eighteen women to one man: which may in part be accounted for, by thealmost uniform absence of a third of the male population occupied in thefisheries. I think there could not have been fewer than two thousand soulspresent. But what struck me as the most ludicrously solemn thing I had everbeheld, was a huge tall figure, dressed like a drum-major, with a largecocked hat and three white plumes, (the only covered male figure in thecongregation, ) a broad white sash upon a complete suit of red, includingred stockings;--representing what in our country is called a _Beadle_. Hewas a sturdy, grim-looking fellow; bearing an halberd in his right hand, which he wielded with a sort of pompous swing, infusing terror into theyoung, and commanding the admiration of the old. I must not, however, omitto inform you, that half the service was scarcely performed when thepreacher mounted a pulpit, with a black cap on, and read a short sermonfrom a printed book. I shall long have a distinct recollection of thefigure and attitude of the _Verger_ who attended the preacher. He followedhim to the pulpit, fastened the door, became stationary, and rested hisleft arm over the railings of the stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff-boxwith his right hand, and regaled himself with a pinch of snuff in the mostjoyous and comfortably-abstracted manner imaginable. There he remained tillthe conclusion of the discourse; not one word of which seemed to afford himhalf the satisfaction as did the contents of his snuff-box. 

_Military Mass_ was performed about an hour after, at the church of ST. REMY, whither I strolled quietly, to witness the devotion of thecongregation previous to the entry of the soldiers; and I will notdissemble being much struck and gratified by what I saw. There was moresimplicity: a smaller congregation: softer music: a lower-toned organ; lessrush of people; and in very many of the flock the most intense andunfeigned expression of piety. At the elevation of the host, from the endof the choir, (near which was suspended a white flag with the portrait ofthe present King[28] upon it) a bell was rung from the tower of the church;the sound, below, was soft and silver-toned--accompanied by rather a quickmovement on the organ, upon the diapason stop; which, united with thesilence and prostration of the congregation, might have commanded thereverence of the most profane. 

There is nothing, my dear friend, more gratifying, in a foreign land, thanthe general appearance of earnestness of devotion on a sabbath day;especially within the HOUSE OF GOD. However, I quickly heard the clangor ofthe trumpet, the beat of drums, the measured tramp of human feet, and upmarched two or three troops of the national guard to perform military mass. I retired precipitately to the Inn, being well pleased to have escaped thisstrange and distracting sight: so little in harmony with the rites andceremonies of our own church, and in truth so little accordant with theservice which I had just beheld. 

[22] [Mons. Licquet says that there were about 17, 000 souls in 1824; so that the above number may be that of the amount of its _present_ population. "Several changes (says my French translator) have taken place at Dieppe since I saw it: among the rest, there is a magnificent establishment of BATHS, where a crowd of people, of the first distinction, every year resort. Her Royal Highness, the Duchesse de Berri, may be numbered among these Visitors. ]

[23] [The common people to this day call a _herring_, a _child of Dieppe. _ LICQUET. ]

[24] ["Sterne reproaches the French for their hyperbolical language: the air of the country had probably some influence on M. Dibdin when he adopted this phrase. " LICQUET. ]

[25] ["Signifying, that the French postilions do not ride like the English. " LICQUET. ]

[26] ["Dieppe for a long time was the rival of Argentan and Caen in the lace-manufactory: at the present day, this branch of commerce is almost annihilated there. "--LICQUET. ]

[27] [In a note attached to the previous edition--I have said, "Here also, as well as at Rouen; they will have it that the ENGLISH built the Churches. " Upon which M. Licquet remarks thus: "M. Dibdin's expression conveys too general an idea. It is true that _popular_ opinion attributes the erection of our gothic edifices to the ENGLISH: but there exists _another_ opinion, which is not deceptive upon this subject. " What is meant to be here conveyed? Either the popular opinion is true or false; and it is a matter of perfect indifference to the author whether it be one or the other. For Mons. Licquet's comfort, I will freely avow that I believe it to be _false_. ]

[28] [Louis XVIII. ]

LETTER III. 

VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF ARQUES. SABBATH AMUSEMENTS. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. BOULEVARDS. 

As I had received especial injunctions from our friend P--- not to leaveDieppe without paying a visit to the famous _Chateau d'Arques_[29], in itsneighbourhood, I resolved to seize the opportunity of a tolerably fair, orrather gray-looking day, to go and pay due homage to those venerableremains of antiquity. The road thither is completely rural: apple-trees, just beginning to burst their blossoms; hamlets, small farm-houses: aprofusion of rich herbage of various kinds--delighted and regaled me as Ipursued my tranquil walk. The country is of a gently-undulating character;but the flats or meadows, between the parallel ranges of hills, are subjectto constant inundation from the sea; and in an agricultural point of vieware consequently of little use, except for summer grazing of the cattle. 

It was drawing on to vespers as I approached the _Village of Arques_. Theold castle had frequently peeped out upon me, in my way thither, from itselevated situation; but being resolved to see "all that could be seen, " aFrench village, for the first time, was not to be overlooked. For a countrychurch, I know of few finer ones than that of Arques. [30]

The site of the castle is admirable. My approach was to the westernextremity; which, as you look down, brings the village and church of Arquesin the back ground. If the eye were to be considered as a correct judge, this venerable pile, composed of hard flint-stone, intermixed with brick, would perhaps claim precedence, on the score of antiquity, over most of thecastles of the middle ages. A deep moat, now dry pasture land, with a boldacclivity before you, should seem to bid defiance, even in times of old, tothe foot and the spear of the invader. There are circular towers at theextremities, and a square citadel or donjon within. To the north, a gooddeal of earth has been recently thrown against the bases of the wall. Theday harmonised admirably with the venerable object before me. The sunshinelasted but for a minute: when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not asingle catch of radiant light gilded any portion of the building. All wasquiet, and of a sombre aspect, --and what _you_, in your admiration of art, would call in perfectly "fine keeping. "

I descended the hill, bidding a long adieu to this venerable relic of thehardihood of other times, and quickened my pace towards Dieppe. In gainingupon the town, I began to discern groups of rustics, as well as ofbourgeoises, assembling and mingling in the dance. The women never think ofwearing bonnets, and you have little idea how picturesquely the red andblue[31] (the colours of Raffaelle's Madonnas) glanced backwards andforwards amidst the fruit trees, to the sound of the spirit-stirringviolin. The high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with its broad flappers, gavethe finishing stroke to the novelty and singularity of the scene; and totheir credit be it spoken, the women were much more tidily dressed than themen. The couples are frequently female, for want of a sufficient number ofswains; but, whether correctly or incorrectly paired, they dance withearnestness, if not with grace. It was a picture à la Teniers, without itsoccasional grossness. This then, said I to myself, is what I have so oftenheard of the sabbath-gambols of the French--and long may they enjoy them!They are surely better than the brutal orgies of the pot-house, or thefanatical ravings of the tabernacle. [32]

A late plain dinner, with my favourite vin ordinaire, recruited mystrength, and kept me in perfectly good humour with Dieppe. 

The deportment of the _Dieppois_[33] towards the English, is, upon thewhole, rather gracious than otherwise; because the town profits by theliberality and love of expense of the latter. Yet the young ones, as soonas they can lisp, are put in training for pronouncing the _G---- d----_;and a few horribly-deformed and importunate beggars are for ever assailingthe doors of the hotels. But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evilas I had anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to indicate thepoverty of the inhabitants; their houses being too large to be entirelyoccupied. Bonaparte appears to have been anxious about the strengthening ofthe harbour; the navigation into which is somewhat difficult and intricate. The sides of the walls, as you enter, are lofty, steep, and strong; andraised batteries would render any hostile approach extremely hazardous tothe assailants. 

There is no ship-building at this moment going on: the ribs of about half adozen, half rotted, small merchant-craft, being all that is discernible. But much is projected, and much is hoped from such projects. Dieppe hasquestionless many local advantages both by land and by sea; yet it willrequire a long course of years to infuse confidence and beget a love ofenterprise. In spite of all the _naval zeal_, it is here exhibited chieflyas affording means of subsistence from the fisheries. I must not howeverconclude my Dieppe journal without telling you that I hunted far and nearfor a good bookseller and for some old books--but found nothing worth thesearch, except a well-printed early _Rouen Missal_, and _Terence_ by_Badius Ascensius_. The booksellers are supplied with books chiefly fromRouen; the local press being too insignificant to mention. 

[29] The French Antiquaries have pushed the antiquity of this castle to the 11th century, supposing it to have been built by _William d'Arques_, Count of Tallon, son of the second marriage of Richard Duke of Normandy. I make no doubt, that, whenever built, the sea almost washed its base: for it is known to have occupied the whole of what is called the _Valley of Arques_, running as far as _Bouteilles_. Its position, in reference to the art of war, must have been almost impregnable. Other hypotheses assign its origin to the ninth or tenth century. Whenever built, its history has been fertile in sieges. In 1144, it was commanded by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the crosier, but who perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history, up to the sixteenth century, I am not able to give any details; but in the wars of Henry IV. With the League, in 1589, it was taken by surprise by soldiers in the disguise of sailors: who, killing the centinels, quickly made themselves masters of the place. Henry caused it afterwards to be dismantled. In the first half of the eighteenth century it received very severe treatment from pillage, for the purpose of erecting public and private buildings at Dieppe. At present (in the language of the author of the _Rouen Itinerary_) "it is the abode of silence--save when that silence is interrupted by owls and other nocturnal birds. " The view of it in Mr. Cotman's work is very faithful. 

[30] The _Itinéraire de Rouen_, 1816, p. 202, says, absurdly, that this church is of the XIth century. It is perhaps with more truth of the beginning of the XIVth century. A pleasing view of it is in Mr. Dawson Turner's elegant Tour in Normandy, 1818, 8vo. 2 vol. It possessed formerly a bust of Henry IV. , which is supposed to have been placed there after the famous battle of Arques gained by Henry over the Duke of Mayenne in 1589. 

[31] The blue gown and red petticoat; or vice versa. 

[32] [I am anxious that the above sentence should stand precisely as it appeared in the first edition of this work; because a circumstance has arisen from it, which could have been as little in the anticipation, as it is in the comprehension, of the author. A lady, of high connections, and of respectable character, conceived the passage in question to be somewhat indecorous; or revolting to the serious sense entertained by all Christians, and especially by CHRISTIAN MINISTERS, of the mode of devoting the Sabbath day. In consequence, being in possession of a copy of this work, she DIVIDED it into two; not being willing to sully the splendour of the plates by the supposed impurity of such a passage:--and the prints were accordingly bound APART. The passage--as applied to the FRENCH PEOPLE--requires neither comment nor qualification; and in the same unsophisticated view of religious duties, the _latter_ part may be as strictly applied to the ENGLISH. ]

[33] The dress of the _sailors_ is the same as it was in the XIVth century; and so probably is that of the women. The illuminations in Froissard and Monstrelet clearly give us the Norman cauchoise. 

LETTER IV. 

ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION. STREET SCENERY. 

Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most extraordinary city in theworld. One rubs one's eyes, and fancies one is dreaming, upon being carriedthrough the streets of this old-fashioned place: or that, by some secrettalismanic touch, we are absolutely mingling with human beings, and objectsof art, at the commencement of the sixteenth century: so very curious, andout of the common appearance of things, is almost every object connectedwith ROUEN. But before I commence my observations upon the _town_, I mustgive you a brief sketch of my _journey_ hither. We had bespoke our placesin the cabriolet of the Diligence, which just holds three tolerablycomfortable; provided there be a disposition to accommodate each other. This cabriolet, as you have been often told, is a sort of a buggy, orphaeton seat, with a covering of leather in the front of the coach. It isfortified with a stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which is a piece ofiron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by means of a hook on theperpendicular supporter of the head. There are stiffish leathern curtainson each side, to be drawn, if necessary, as a protection against the rain, &c. You lean upon the bar, or top of this leathern apron, which is no veryuncomfortable resting-place. And thus we took leave of Dieppe, on the 4thday after our arrival there. As we were seated in the cabriolet, we couldhardly refrain from loud laughter at the novelty of our situation, and thegrotesqueness of the conveyance. Our Postilion was a rare specimen of hisspecies, and a perfectly _unique copy_. He fancied himself, I suppose, rather getting "into the vale of years, " and had contrived to tinge hischeeks with a plentiful portion of rouge. [34] His platted and powdered hairwas surmounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with faded ribband:his jacket was dark blue velvet, with the insignia of his order (the royalarms) upon his left arm. What struck me as not a little singular, was, thathis countenance was no very faint resemblance of that of _Voltaire_, whenhe might have been verging towards his sixtieth year. Most assuredly heresembled him in his elongated chin, and the sarcastic expression of hismouth. We rolled merrily along--the horses sometimes spreading, andsometimes closing, according to the size of the streets through which wewere compelled to pass. The reins and harness are of _cord_; which, howeverkeep together pretty well. The postilion endeavours to break the rapidityof the descent by conducting the wheels over small piles of gravel orrubbish, which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch; so that, to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlooking the whole process, theeffect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop little inchanging horses, and the Diligence is certainly well managed, and ingeneral no accidents occur. 

The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent condition. There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficientline of demarkation. The country is open, and gently undulating; withscarcely any glimpses of what is called forest-scenery, till you gettowards the conclusion of the first stage. Nothing particularly strikes youtill you approach _Malaunai_, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, andof course after the last change of horses. The environs of this beautifulvillage repay you for every species of disappointment, if any should havebeen experienced. The rising banks of a brisk serpentine trout stream arestudded with white houses, in which are cotton manufactories that appear tobe carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses are hangingwoods; and though the early spring would scarcely have coated the brancheswith green in our own country, yet _here_ there was a general freshness ofverdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple; altogetherrejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally there weredelicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an Englishman would haveembellished to every possible degree of advantage. But wealth, for thegratification of picturesque taste, is a superfluity that will not quicklyfall to the lot of the French. The Revolution seems to have drained theirpurses, as well as daunted their love of enterprise. Along the road-sidethere were some few houses of entertainment; and we observed the emptiedcabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of the gardens, whereMonsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the vistas, and tittered as John Bull saluted them. Moving vehicles, and numerousriding and walking groups, increased upon us; and every thing announcedthat we were approaching a _great and populous city_. 

The approach to ROUEN is indeed magnificent. I speak of the immediateapproach; after you reach the top of a considerable rise, and are stoppedby the barriers. You then look down a strait, broad, and strongly pavedroad, lined with a double row of trees on each side. As the foliage was notthickly set, we could discern, through the delicately-clothed branches, thetapering spire of the CATHEDRAL, and the more picturesque tower of theABBAYE ST. OUEN--with hanging gardens, and white houses, to theleft--covering a richly cultivated ridge of hills, which sink as it wereinto the _Boulevards_, and which is called the _Faubourg Cauchoise_. To theright, through the trees, you see the river SEINE (here of no despicabledepth or breadth) covered with boats and vessels in motion: the voice ofcommerce, and the stir of industry, cheering and animating you as youapproach the town. I was told that almost every vessel which I saw (some ofthem of two hundred, and even of three hundred tons burthen) was filledwith brandy and wine. The lamps are suspended from the centre of longropes, across the road; and the whole scene is of a truly novel andimposing character. But how shall I convey to you an idea of what Iexperienced, as, turning to the left, and leaving the broader streets whichflank the quay, I began to enter the _penetralia_ of this truly antiquatedtown? What narrow streets, what overhanging houses, what bizarre, capricious ornaments! What a mixture of modern with ancient art! Whatfragments, or rather ruins, of old delicately-built Gothic churches! Whatsigns of former and of modern devastation! What fountains, gutters, groupsof never-ceasing men, women, and children, all gay, all occupied, and allapparently happy! The _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_ (so called from a huge, clumsy, antiquated clock which goes across it) struck me as being not amongthe least singular streets of Rouen. In five minutes I was within thecourt-yard of the _Hôtel Vatel_, the favourite residence of the English. 

It was evening when I arrived, in company with three Englishmen. We weresoon saluted by the _laquais de place_--the leech-like hangers-on of everyhotel--who begged to know if we would walk upon the Boulevards. Weconsented; turned to the right; and, gradually rising, gained aconsiderable eminence. Again we turned to the right, walking upon a raisedpromenade; while the blossoms of the pear and apple trees, within a hundredwalled gardens, perfumed the air with a delicious fragrance. As wecontinued our route along the _Boulevard Beauvoisine_, we gained one of themost interesting and commanding views imaginable of the city of Rouen--justat that moment lighted up by the golden rays of a glorious sun-set--whichgave a breadth and a mellower tone to the shadows upon the Cathedral andthe Abbey of St. Ouen. The situation of Rouen renders it necessarilypicturesque, view it from what spot you will. 

The population of Rouen is supposed to be full one hundred thousand souls. In truth, there is no end to the succession of human beings. They swarmlike bees, and like bees are busy in bringing home the produce of theirindustry. You have all the bustle and agitation of Cheapside and Cornhill;only that the ever-moving scene is carried on within limits one-half asbroad. Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames-street, --and yetyou cannot conceive the narrow streets of Rouen: filled with the flauntingcauchoise, and echoing to the eternal tramp of the sabot. There they are;men, women, and children--all abroad in the very centre of the streets:alternately encountering the splashing of the gutter, and the jostling oftheir townsmen--while the swift cabriolet, or the slow-paced cart, or thethundering _Diligence_, severs them, and scatters them abroad, only thatthey may seem to be yet more condensely united. For myself, it is withdifficulty I believe that I am not living in the times of our Henry VIII. And of their Francis I. ; and am half disposed to inquire after theresidence of _Guillaume Tailleur_ the printer--the associate, or foreignagent of your favourite _Pynson_. [35]

[34] [Mons. Licquet here observes, "This is the first time I have heard it said that our Postilions put on rouge. " What he adds, shall be given in his own pithy expression. --"Où la coquetterie va-t-elle se nicher?" What, however is above stated, was stated from a _conviction_ of its being TRUE]

[35] [The third English Printer. ] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. Ii. P. 137, 8. 

LETTER V. 

ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. CATHEDRAL. MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. THE ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST. VINCENT, ST. VIVIEN, ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL. 

I have now made myself pretty well acquainted with the geography of Rouen. How shall I convey to you a summary, and yet a satisfactory, description ofit? It cannot be done. You love old churches, old books, and relics ofancient art. These be my themes, therefore: so fancy yourself eitherstrolling leisurely with me, arm in arm, in the streets--or sitting at myelbow. First for THE CATHEDRAL:--for what traveller of taste does not doffhis bonnet to the _Mother Church_ of the town through which he happens tobe travelling--or in which he takes up a temporary abode? Thewest-front, [36] always the _forte_ of the architect's skill, strikes you asyou go down, or come up, the principal street--_La Rue des Carmes_, --whichseems to bisect the town into equal parts. A small open space, (whichhowever has been miserably encroached upon by petty shops) called the_Flower-garden_, is before this western front; so that it has some littlebreathing room in which to expand its beauties to the wondering eyes of thebeholder. In my poor judgment, this western front has very few elevationscomparable with it[37]--including even those of _Lincoln_ and _York_. Theornaments, especially upon the three porches, between the two towers, arenumerous, rich, and for the greater part entire:--in spite of theCalvinists, [38] the French revolution, and time. Among the lower andsmaller basso-relievos upon these porches, is the subject of the daughterof Herodias dancing before Herod. She is manoeuvering on her hands, herfeet being upwards. To the right, the decapitation of St. John is takingplace. 

The southern transept makes amends for the defects of the northern. Thespace before it is devoted to a sort of vegetable market: curious oldhouses encircle this space: and the ascent to the door, but more especiallythe curiously sculptured porch itself, with the open spaces in the upperpart--light, fanciful and striking to a degree--produce an effect aspleasing as it is extraordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet ofdevotees, going in and coming out--the worn pavement, and the fritteredornaments, in consequence--seem to convince you that the ardour andactivity of devotion is almost equal to that of business. [39]

As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending two steps, you are struck with the length and loftiness of the nave, and with thelightness of the gallery which runs along the upper part of it. Perhaps thenave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of the central large toweris beautifully light and striking. It is supported by four massiveclustered pillars, about forty feet in circumference;[40] but on castingyour eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless division of the choirfrom the nave by what is called a _Grecian screen_: and the interior of thetransepts has undergone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windowsof the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave, merit yourattention and commendation. I could not avoid noticing, to the right, uponentrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the cathedral: of a date, little less ancient than that of the northern tower; and perhaps of the endof the twelfth century. It contains by much the finest specimens of stainedglass--of the early part of the XVIth century. There is also some beautifulstained glass on each side of the Chapel of the Virgin, [41] behind thechoir; but although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not beingcomposed of groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almostall the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been madeamong the stained-glass windows by the fury of the Revolutionists. [42]

Respecting the MONUMENTS, you ought to know that the famous ROLLO lies inone of the side-chapels, farther down to the right, upon entering; althoughhis monument cannot be older than the thirteenth century. My attachment tothe bibliomanical celebrity of JOHN, DUKE OF BEDFORD, will naturally leadme to the notice of his interment and monumental inscription. The latter isthus;

 _Ad dextrum Altaris Latus_

 _Jacet_

 IOANNES DUX BETFORDI

 _Normanniæ pro Rex_

 _Obiit Anno_

 MCCCCXXXV. 

The Duke's tomb will be seen engraved in Sandford's GenealogicalHistory, [43] p. 314; which plate, in fact, is the identical one used byDucarel; who had the singularly good fortune to decorate his Anglo-NormanAntiquities without any expense to himself![44]

There is a curious chapter in Pommeraye's _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedralede Rouen_, p. 203, respecting the Duke's taking the habit of a canon of thecathedral. He attended, with his first wife, ANNE OF BURGUNDY, and threwhimself upon the liberality and kindness of the monks, to be received bythem as one of their order: "il les prioit d'être receu parmy eux comme unde leurs frères, et d'avoir tous les jours distribution de pain et de vin, et pour marque de fraternité d'être vétu du surplis et de l'aumusse: commeaussi d'être associé, luy et sa très généreuse et très illustre épouse, auxsuffrages de leur compagnie, et à la participation de tous les biens qu'ilplaira à Dieu leur donner la grace d'opérer, " p. 204. A grand processionmarked the day of the Duke's admission into the monkish fraternity. Thewhole of this, with an account of the Duke's superb presents to thesacristy, his dining with his Duchess, and receiving their portion of"eight loaves and four gallons of wine, " are distinctly narrated by theminute Pommeraye. 

As you approach the _Chapel of the Virgin_, you pass by an ancientmonument, to the left, of a recumbent Bishop, reposing behind a thinpillar, within a pretty ornamented Gothic arch. [45] To the eye of atasteful antiquary this cannot fail to have its due attraction. Whilehowever we are treading upon hallowed ground, rendered if possible moresacred by the ashes of the illustrious dead, let us move gently onwardstowards the _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir. See, what bold andbrilliant monumental figures are yonder, to the right of the altar! Howgracefully they kneel and how devoutly they pray! They are the figures ofthe CARDINALS D'AMBOISE--uncle and nephew:--the former, minister of LouisXII. [46] and (what does not necessarily follow, but what gives him as higha claim upon the gratitude of posterity) the restorer and beautifier of theglorious building in which you are contemplating his figure. This splendidmonument is entirely of black and white marble, of the early part of thesixteenth century. The figures just mentioned are of white marble, kneelingupon cushions, beneath a rich canopy of Gothic fretwork. They are in theirprofessional robes; their heads are bare, exhibiting the tonsure, with thehair in one large curl behind. A small whole-length figure of _St. George_, their tutelary saint, is below them, in gilded marble: and the whole base, or lower frieze, of the monument, is surrounded by six delicatelysculptured females, about three feet high, emblematic of the virtues forwhich these cardinals were so eminently distinguished. These figures, representing Faith, Charity, Prudence, Force, Justice, and Temperance, areflanked by eight smaller ones, placed in carved niches; while, above them, are the twelve Apostles, not less beautifully executed. [47]

On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and liberality--andwith one's mind deeply intent upon the characters of the deceased--let usfancy we hear the sound of the GREAT BELL from the south-west tower ... Called the _Amboise Tower_ ... Erected, both the bell and the tower, by theuncle and minister AMBOISE. Know, my dear friend, that there was _once_ abell, (and the largest in Europe, save one) which used to send forth itssound, for three successive centuries, from the said tower. This bell wasbroken about thirty years ago, and destroyed in the ravages of theimmediately succeeding years. [48] The south-west tower remains, and theupper part of the central tower, with the whole of the lofty woodenspire:--the fruits of the liberality of the excellent men of whom suchhonourable mention has been made. Considering that this spire is verylofty, and composed of wood, _it is surprising that it has not beendestroyed by tempest, or by lightning_. [49] The taste of it is rathercapricious than beautiful. 

I have not yet done with the monuments, or rather have only commenced theaccount of them. [50] Examine yonder recumbent figure, to the left of thealtar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I have just been dilating. It is lying upon its back, with a ghastly expression of countenance, representing the moment when the last breath has escaped from the body. Itis the figure of the Grand SENESCHAL DE BREZE, [51]--Governor of Rouen, andhusband of the celebrated DIANE DE POICTIERS--that thus claims ourattention. This figure is quite naked, lying upon its back, with the righthand placed on the stomach, but in an action which indicates _life_--andtherefore it is in bad taste, as far as truth is concerned; for the headbeing fallen back, much shrunken, and with a ghastly expression ofcountenance--indicating that some time has elapsed since it breathed itslast--the hand could not rest in this position. The cenotaph is of blackmarble, disfigured by the names of idle visitors who choose to leave suchimpertinent memorials behind. The famous GOUJON is supposed to be thesculptor of the figure, which is painfully clever, but it strikes me asbeing too small. At any rate, the arms and body seem to be too strong andfleshy for the shrunken and death-stricken expression of the countenance. Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and lifeless, there is another and avery clever representation of him, on a smaller scale, on horseback. 

On each side of this figure (which has not escaped serious injury) are twofemales in white marble; one representing the VIRGIN, and the other DIANEDE POICTIERS:[52] they are little more than half the size of life. Thewhole is in the very best style of the sculpture of the time of Francis I. These precious specimens of art, as well as several other similar remains, were carried away during the revolution, to a place of safety. The choir isspacious, and well adapted to its purposes; but who does not grieve to seethe Archbishop's stall, once the most curious and costly, of the Gothicorder, and executed at the end of the XVth century, transformed into astately common-place canopy, supported by columns of chestnut-wood carvedin the Grecian style? The LIBRARY, which used to terminate the northtransept, is--not gone--but transferred. A fanciful stair-case, with anappropriate inscription, [53] yet attest that it was formerly an appendageto that part of the edifice. 

Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must not fail to tell yousomething relating to the rites performed therein. Let us quit thereforethe dead for the living. Of course we saw, here, a repetition of theceremonies observed at Dieppe; but previously to the feast of the_Ascension_ we were also present at the confirmation of three hundred boysand three hundred girls, each very neatly and appropriately dressed, in asort of sabbath attire, and each holding a lighted wax taper in the hand. The girls were dressed in white, with white veils; and the rich lent veilsto those who had not the means of purchasing them. The cathedral, especially about the choir, was crowded to excess. I hired a chair, stoodup, and gazed as earnestly as the rest. The interest excited among theparents, and especially the mothers, was very striking. "Voila lapetite--qu'elle a l'air charmant!--le petit ange!".... A stir is made ... They rise... And approach, in the most measured order, the rails of thechoir ... There they deposit their tapers. The priests, very numerous, extinguish them as dexterously as they can; and the whole cathedral isperfumed with the mixed scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, onapproaching the altar, and giving up their tapers, kneel down; then shuttheir eyes, open their mouths; and the priests deposit the consecratedwafer upon their tongues. The procession now took a different direction. They all went into the nave, where a sermon was preached to the youngpeople, expressly upon the occasion, by a Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon ofthe cathedral, and a preacher of considerable popularity. He had one of themost meagre and forbidding physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard wasblack and unshaven. But he preached well; fluently, and even eloquently:making a very singular, but not ungraceful, use of his left arm--anddisplaying at times rather a happy familiarity of manner, wholly exemptfrom vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and feelings of hisyouthful audience. His subject was "belief in Christ Jesus;" on which hegave very excellent proofs and evidences. His voice was thin, but clear, and distinctly heard. 

And now, my dear Friend, if you are not tired with this détour of theCATHEDRAL, suppose we take a promenade to the next most importantecclesiastical edifice in the city of Rouen. What say you therefore to astroll to the ABBEY of ST. OUEN? "Willingly, " methinks I hear you reply. Tothe abbey therefore let us go. 

Leaving the Cathedral, you pass a beautifully sculptured fountain (of theearly time of Francis I. ) which stands at the corner of a street, to theright; and which, from its central situation, is visited the live-long dayfor the sake of its limpid waters. Push on a little further; then, turningto the right, you get into a sort of square, and observe the ABBEY--orrather the _west-front_ of it, full in face of you. You gaze, and are firststruck with its matchless window: call it rose, or marygold, as you please. I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this window is perfectlyunrivalled. There is a play of line in the mullions, which, consideringtheir size and strength, may be pronounced quite a master-piece of art. Youapproach, regretting the neglected state of the lateral towers, and enter, through the large and completely-opened centre doors, the nave of theAbbey. It was towards sun-set when we made our first entrance. The eveningwas beautiful; and the variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted through thestained glass of the window, just noticed, were perfectly enchanting. Thewindow itself, as you look upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon thecentre of it, from the remote end of the Abbey, or the _Lady's Chapel_, wasa perfect blaze of dazzling light: and nave, choir, and side aisles, seemedmagically illumined ... 

 Seemed all on fire--within, around; Deep sacristy and altar's pale; Shone every pillar foliage-bound.... 

 _Lay of the Last Minstrel_. 

We declared instinctively that the ABBEY OF ST. OUEN could hardly have arival;--certainly not a superior. 

[Illustration]

As the evening came on, the gloom of almost every side chapel and recesswas rendered doubly impressive by the devotion of numerous stragglingsupplicants; and invocations to the presiding spirit of the place, reachedthe ears and touched the hearts of the bystanders. The grand westernentrance presents you with the most perfect view of the choir--a magicalcircle, or rather oval--flanked by lofty and clustered pillars, and freefrom the surrounding obstruction of screens, &c. Nothing more airy and morecaptivating of the kind can be imagined. The finish and delicacy of thesepillars are quite surprising. Above, below, around--every thing is in thepurest style of the XIVth and XVth centuries. The central tower is a towerof beauty as well as of strength. Yet in regard to further details, connected with the interior, it must be admitted that there is very littlemore which is deserving of particular description; except it be _thegallery_, which runs within the walls of the nave and choir, and which isconsiderably more light and elegant than that of the cathedral. A greatdeal has been said about the circular windows at the end of the southtransept, and they are undoubtedly elegant: but compared with the one atthe extremity of the nave, they are rather to be noticed from the taleattached to them, than from their positive beauty. The tale, my friend, isbriefly this. These windows were finished (as well as the larger one at thewest front) about the year 1439. One of them was executed by themaster-mason, the other by his apprentice; and on being criticised bycompetent judges, the performance of the _latter_ was said to eclipse thatof the former. In consequence, the master became jealous and revengeful, and actually poniarded his apprentice. He was of course tried, condemned, and executed; but an existing monument to his memory attests the humanityof the monks in giving him Christian interment. [54] On the whole, it is theabsence of all obtrusive and unappropriate ornament which gives to theinterior of this building that light, unencumbered, and faery-like effectwhich so peculiarly belongs to it, and which creates a sensation that Inever remember to have felt within any other similar edifice. 

Let me however put in a word for the _Organ_. It is immense, and perhapslarger than that belonging to the Cathedral. The tin pipes (like those ofthe organ in the Cathedral) are of their natural colour. I paced thepavement beneath, and think that this organ cannot be short of fortyEnglish feet in length. Indeed, in all the churches which I have yet seen, the organs strike me as being of magnificent dimensions. 

You should be informed however that the extreme length of the interior, from the further end of the Chapel of the Virgin, to its opposite westernextremity, is about four hundred and fifty English feet; while the height, from the pavement to the roof of the nave, or the choir, is one hundred andeight English feet. The transepts are about one hundred and forty feet inlength. The central tower, upon the whole, is not only the grandest towerin Rouen, but there is nothing for its size in our own country that cancompare with it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet above the roof of thechurch; and is supported below, or rather within, by four magnificentcluster-pillared bases, each about thirty-two feet in circumference. Itsarea, at bottom, can hardly be less than thirty-six feet square. The choiris flanked by flying buttresses, which have a double tier of small arches, altogether "marvellous and curious to behold. "

I could not resist stealing quietly round to the porch of the _southtransept_, and witnessing, in that porch, one of the most chaste, light, and lovely specimens of Gothic architecture, which can be contemplated. Indeed, I hardly know any thing like it. [55] The leaves of the poplar andash were beginning to mantle the exterior; and, seen through their greenand gay lattice work, the traceries of the porch seemed to assume a moreinteresting aspect. They are now mending the upper part of the façade withnew stone of peculiar excellence--but it does not harmonise with the oldwork. They merit our thanks, however, for the preservation of what remainsof this precious pile. I should remark to you that the eastern andnorth-eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded with promenadesand trees: so that, occasionally, either when walking, or sitting upon thebenches, within these gardens, you catch one of the finest views imaginableof the abbey. 

At this early season of the year, much company is assembled every eveningin these walks: while, in front of the abbey, or in the square facing thewestern end, the national guard is exercised in the day time--and troops offair nymphs and willing youths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening, while a platform is erected for the instrumental performers, and for theexhibition of feats of legerdemain. You must not take leave of St. Ouenwithout being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasionally to"make revel" within the Abbot's house. Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III, each took a fancy to this spot--but especially the famous HENRI QUATRE. Itis reported that that monarch sojourned here for four months--- and hisreply to the address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preservedboth in MS. And by engravings. "The King having arrived at St. Ouen (saysan old MS. )[56] the keys of the tower were presented to him, in thepresence of M. De Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon avelvet-cushion. The keys were gilt. The King took them, and replacing themin the hands of the governor, said--"Mon cousin, je vous les baille pourles rendre, qu'ils les gardent;"--then, addressing the aldermen, he added, "Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le meilleur Roi quevous ayez jamais eu. "

Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, "go by all means and see the church _St. Maclou_"--say your friends and your guides. The Abbé Turquier accompaniedme thither. The great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its porch. Of the tower, little more than the lantern remains. This is about 160English feet in height. Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feetin height, constructed of wood and lead--but which has been nearlydestroyed for the sake of the lead, --for the purpose of slaughter orresistance during the late revolution. [57] The exteriors of the porches areremarkable for their elaborate ornaments; especially those in the _RueMartainville. _ They are highly praised by the inhabitants, and are supposedto be after the models of the famous Goujon. Perhaps they are ratherencumbered with ornament, and want that quiet effect, and pure good taste, which we see in the porches of the Cathedral and of the Abbey St. Ouen. However, let critics determine as they will upon this point--they must atleast unite in reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicatepieces of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint ofstaring yellow ochre!

Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four: two of them chieflyremarkable for their interior, and two for their extreme antiquity. Of thetwo former, that of _St. Vincent_ presents you with a noble organ, with alight choir profusely gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellenttaste. But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich, varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimenof this species of art in the present ecclesiastical remains of the city. _St. Vivien_ is the second of these two former. It is a fine open church, with a large organ, having a very curious wooden screen in front, elaborately carved, and, as I conceive, of the very earliest part of thesixteenth century. I ascended the organ-loft; and the door happening to beopen, I examined this screen (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochreedict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination. Suchpieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the first time, within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of the choir: walkedgently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature wasin the church) and, "with no unhallowed hand" I would hope, ventured toopen the choral or service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide, thick, and ponderous: upon vellum: beautifully written and well executed inevery respect, with the exception of the illuminations which were extremelyindifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad, are open at all times of the day: the ancient or more massive door, orportal, is secured from shutting; but a temporary, small, shabby woodendoor, covered with dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circularhinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of the larger one. 

Of the two ancient churches, above alluded to, that of _St. Gervais_, issituated considerably to the north of where the _Boulevards Cauchoise_ and_Bouvreuil_ meet. It was hard by this favourite spot, say the Normanhistorians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses:considering it as a _lieu de plaisance. _ Here too it was that the Conquerorcame to breathe his last--desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palacein the city, for the benefit of the pure air. [58] I walked with M. LePrevost to this curious church: having before twice seen it. But the_Crypt_ is the only thing worth talking about, on the score of antiquity. The same accomplished guide bade me remark the extraordinary formation ofthe capitals of the pillars: which, admitting some perversity of taste in arude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman character. "Perhaps, " said M. Le Prevost, "the last efforts of Roman art previous tothe relinquishment of the Romans. " Among these capitals there is one of theperfect Doric order; while in another you discover the remains of two Romaneagles. The columns are all of the same height; and totally unlike everything of the kind which I have seen or heard of. 

We descended the hill upon which _St. Gervais_ is built, and walked onwardtowards _St. Paul_, situated at the further and opposite end of the town, upon a gentle eminence, just above the Banks of the Seine. [59] M. LePrevost was still our conductor. This small edifice is certainly of remoteantiquity, but I suspect it to be completely Norman. The eastern end isfull of antiquarian curiosities. We observed something like a Roman mask asthe centre ornament upon the capital of one of the circular figures; andMr. Lewis made a few slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in theexterior, of which the hair is of an uncommon fashion. The _Saxon whiskers_are discoverable upon several of these faces. Upon the whole, it ispossible that parts of this church may have been built at the latter end ofthe tenth century, after the Normans had made themselves completely mastersof this part of the kingdom; yet it is more probable that there is novestige left which claims a more ancient date than that of the end of theeleventh century. I ought just to notice the church of _St. Sever_, [60]supposed by some to be yet more ancient: but I had no opportunity of takinga particular survey of it. 

Thus much, or rather thus little, respecting the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIESof Rouen. They merit indeed a volume of themselves. This city could onceboast of upwards of _thirty parish churches_; of which very nearly a_dozen_ have been recently (I mean during the Revolution) converted into_warehouses_. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy mélange--this strangemisappropriation of what was formerly held most sacred, to the common andlowest purposes of civil life! You enter these warehouses, or offices ofbusiness, and see the broken shaft, the battered capital, andhalf-demolished altar-piece--the gilded or the painted frieze--in the midstof bales of goods--casks, ropes, and bags of cotton: while, without, thesame spirit of demolition prevails in the fractured column, and totteringarch way. Thus time brings its changes and decays--premature as well asnatural: and the noise of the car-men and injunctions of the clerk are nowheard, where formerly there reigned a general silence, interrupted only bythe matin or evening chaunt! I deplored this sort of sacrilegiousadaptation, to a respectable-looking old gentleman, sitting out of doorsupon a chair, and smoking his pipe--"c'est dommage, Monsieur, qu'on aconverti l'église à"--He stopped me: raised his left hand: then took awayhis pipe with his right; gave a gentle whiff, and shrugging up hisshoulders, half archly and half drily exclaimed--"Mais que voulez vous, Monsieur?--ce sont des événemens qu'on ne peut ni prévoir ni prévenir. Voilà ce que c'est!" Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable morceauof philosophy, consider me ever, &c. 

[36] A most ample and correct view of this west front will be found in Mr. _Cotman's Norman Antiquities_. 

[37] It is about 180 English feet in width, by about 150 in the highest part of its elevation. The plates which I saw at Mr. Frere's, bookseller, upon the Quai de Paris, from the drawings of Langlois, were very inadequate representations of the building. 

[38] The ravages committed by the Calvinists throughout nearly the whole of the towns in Normandy, and especially in the cathedrals, towards the year 1560, afford a melancholy proof of the effects of RELIGIOUS ANIMOSITY. But the Calvinists were bitter and ferocious persecutors. Pommeraye, in his quarto volume, _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale de Rouen_, 1686, has devoted nearly one hundred pages to an account of Calvinistic depredations. 

[39] [Mr. Cotman has a plate of the elevation of the front of this south transept; and a very minute and brilliant one will be found in the previous edition of this Tour--by Mr. Henry le Keux: for which that distinguished Artist received the sum of 100 guineas. The remuneration was well merited. ]

[40] [Mons. Licquet says each clustered pillar contains thirty-one columns. ]

[41] This chapel is about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty in width, and sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de Champagne, at the end of it, has no other merit than that of covering so many square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of the XIVth century: the stained glass windows are of the latter end of the XVth. On completing the circuit of the cathedral, one is surprised to count not fewer than _twenty-five_ chapels. 

[42] [Mons. Licquet is paraphrastically warm in his version, here. He renders it thus: "les atteintes effroyables du vandalisme révolutionaire, " vol. I. P. 64. ]

[43] Sandford, after telling us that he thinks there "never was any portraiture" of the Duke, thus sums up his character. "He was justly accounted one of the best generals that ever blossomed out of the royal stem of PLANTAGENET. His valour was not more terrible to his enemies than his memory honourable; for (doubtful whether with more glory to him, or to the speaker) King Lewis the Eleventh being counselled by certain envious persons to deface his tomb (wherein with him, saith one, was buried all English men's good fortune in France) used these indeed princely words: 'What honour shall it be to us, or you, to break this monument, and to pull out of the ground the bones of HIM, whom, in his life time, neither my father nor your progenitors, with all their puissance, were once able to make flie a foot backwarde? who, by his strength, policy and wit kept them all out of the principal dominions of France, and out of this noble duchy of Normandy? Wherefore, I say first, GOD SAVE HIS SOUL; and let his body now lie in rest, which when he was alive, would have disquieted the proudest of us all. And for THIS TOMB, I assure you it is not so worthy or convenient as his honour and acts have deserved. '" p. 314-5, Ed. 1707[A] The famous MISSAL, once in the possession of this celebrated nobleman, and containing the only authenticated portrait of him (which is engraved in the _Bibliog. Decameron_, vol. I. P. Cxxxvii. ) is now the property of John Milner, Esq. Of York Place, Portman Square, who purchased it of the Duke of Marlborough. The Duke had purchased it at the sale of the library of the late James Edwards, Esq. For 687l. 15s. 

 [A] [Upon this, Mons. Licquet, with supposed shrewdness and success, remarks, --"All very well: but we must not forget that the innocent Joan of Arc was burnt alive--thanks to this said Duke of Bedford, as every one knows!"]

[44] [A different tale may be told of ONE of his Successors in the same Anglo-Norman pursuit. The expenses attending the graphic embellishments alone of the previous edition of this work, somewhat exceeded the sum of _four thousand seven hundred pounds. _ The risk was entirely my own. The result was the loss of about 200l. : exclusively of the expences incurred in travelling about 2000 miles. The _copper-plates_ (notwithstanding every temptation, and many entreaties, to _multiply_ impressions of several of the subjects engraved) were DESTROYED. There may be something more than a mere negative consolation, in finding that the work is RISING in price, although its author has long ceased to partake of any benefit resulting from it. ]

[45] A plate of this Monument is published in the Tour of Normandy by Dawson Turner, Esq. 

[46] The Cardinal died in his fiftieth year only; and his funeral was graced and honoured by the presence of his royal master. Guicciardini calls him "the oracle and right arm of Louis. " Of eight brothers, whom he left behind, four attained to the episcopal rank. His nephew succeeded him as Archbishop. See also _Historia Genealogica Magnatum Franciae_; vol. Vii. P. 129; quoted in the _Gallia Christiana_, vol. Xi. Col. 96. 

 It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew of Amboise--namely, that of CHARLES of BOURBON--that the _Calvanistic persecution_ commenced. "Tunc vero coepit civitas, dioecesis, universaque provincia lamentabilem in modum conflictari, saevientibus ob religionis dissidia plusquam civilibus bellis, " &c. But then the good Archbishop, however bountiful he might have been towards the poor at _Roncesvalles_, (when he escorted Philip II. 's first wife Elizabeth, daughter of Henry II. To the confines of Spain, after he had married her to that wretched monarch) should not have inflamed the irritated minds of the Calvinists, by BURNING ALIVE, in 1559, _John Cottin_, one of their most eminent preachers, by way of striking terror into the rest! Well might the Chronicler observe, as the result, "novas secta illa in dies acquirebat vires. " About 1560-2, the Calvinists got the upper hand; and repaid the Catholics with a vengeance. Charles of Bourbon died in 1590: so that he had an arduous and agitated time of it. 

[47] How long will this monument--(matchless of its kind)--continue unrepresented by the BURIN? If Mr. Henry Le Keux were to execute it in his best style, the world might witness in it a piece of Art entirely perfect of its kind. But let the pencils of Messrs. Corbould and Blore be first exercised on the subject. In the mean while, why is GALLIC ART inert?

[48] The choir was formerly separated from the surrounding chapels, or rather from the space between it and the chapels, by a superb brass grating, full of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments--another testimony of the magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister of Louis XII. : whose arms, as well as the figure of his patron, St. George, were seen in the centre of every compartment ... The Revolution has not left a vestige behind!

[49] [In this edition, I put the above passage in _Italics_, --to mark, that, within three years of writing it, the spire was consumed by LIGHTNING. The newspapers of both France and England were full of this melancholy event; and in the year 1823, Monsieur Hyacinthe Langlois, of Rouen, published an account of it, together with some views (indifferently lithographised) of the progress of the burning. "It should seem (says Mons. Licquet) that the author had a presentiment of what was speedily to take place:--for the rest, the same species of destruction threatens all similar edifices, for the want of conductors. " I possess a fragment of the lead of the roof, as it was collected after a state of _fusion_--and sent over to me by some friend at Rouen. The fusion has caused portions of the lead to assume a variety of fantastic shapes--not _altogether_ unlike a gothic building. ]

[50] Let me add that the whole length of the cathedral is about four hundred and forty feet; and the transept about one hundred and seventy-five; English measure. The height of the nave is about ninety, and of the lantern one hundred and sixty-eight feet, English. The length of the nave is two hundred and twenty-eight feet. 

[51] He died in 1531. Both the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are inserted by Gilbert, from Pommeraye and Farin; and formerly there was seen, in the middle of the monument, the figure of the Seneschal habited as a Count, with all the insignia of his dignity. But this did not outlive the Revolution. 

[52] It must be admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses

 _Indivulsa tibi quondam et fidissima conjux Vt fuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo_. 

 to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have "moved the bile" of the pious Benedictine Pommeraye, and have excited the taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her subsequent connexion, in the character of mistress, with Henry the Second of France. Henry however endeavoured to compensate for his indiscretions by the pomp and splendor of his processions. Rouen, so celebrated of old for the entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to have been in a perfect blaze of splendor upon that of the Lover of Diana--"qui fut plus magnifique que toutes celles qu'on avoit vu jusqu'alors:" see _Farin's Hist. De la Ville de Rouen_, vol. I. P. 121, where there is a singularly minute and gay account of all the orders and degrees of citizens--(with their gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes, velvet hats, rich brocades, and curiously wrought taffetas) of whom the processions were composed. It must have been a perfectly dramatic sight, upon the largest possible scale. It was from respect to the character or the memory of DIANA, that so many plaster-representations of her were erected on the exteriors of buildings: especially of those within small squares or quadrangles. In wandering about Rouen, I stumbled upon several old mansions of this kind. 

[53] The inscription is this:

 _Si quem sancta tenet meditandi in lege voluntas, Hic poterit residens, sacris intendere libris_. 

 Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossiping chapter [Chap. Xxii. ] "De la Bibliothêque de la Cathédrale;" p. 163: to which FRANÇOIS DE HARLAY, about the year 1630, was one of the most munificent benefactors. 

[54] _Christian interment_. ]--"Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touchez de compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son corps de la justice, et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu'il leur avoit rendus dans la construction de leur église, nonobstant sa fin tragique, ne laissèrent pas de luy fair l'honneur de l'inhumer dans la chapelle de sainte Agnes, ou sa tombe se voit encore auec cet Epitaphe:

 _Cy gist_ M. ALEXANDRE DE BERNEUAL, _Maistre des oeuvres de Massonnerie. _

[55] Even Dr. Ducarel became warm--on contemplating this porch! "The porch at the south entrance into the church (says he) is much more worthy of the spectator's attention, being highly enriched with architectonic ornaments; particularly two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the combination of a variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down from the vaulted roof, produce a very pleasing effect. " p. 28. 

[56] Consult the account given by M. Le Prevost in the "_Précis Analytique des Travaux de l'Academie, &c. De Rouen_, " for the year 1816, p. 151, &c. 

[57] Farin tells us that you could go from the top of the lantern to the cross, or to the summit of the belfry, "outside, without a ladder; so admirable was the workmanship. " "Strangers (adds he) took models of it for the purpose of getting them engraved, and they were sold publicly at Rome. " _Hist. De la Ville de Rouen_, 1738, 4to. Vol. Ii. P. 154. There are thirteen chapels within this church; of which however the building cannot be traced lower than quite the beginning of the XVIth century. The extreme length and width of the interior is about 155 by 82 feet English. Even in Du Four's time the population of this parish was very great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and most regular in Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description of it--"on va tout autour par des galeries couvertes et pavées; et, deux de ces galeries sont decorées de deux autels, " &c. P. 150. 

 Alas! time--or the revolution--has annihilated all this. Let me however add that M. COTMAN has published a view of the _staircase_ in the church of which I am speaking. 

[58] Ordericus Vitalis says, that the dying monarch requested to be conveyed thither, to avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town. Rouen is described to be, in _his_ time, "populosa civitas. " Consult Duchesne's _Historiæ Normannor. Scrip. Antiq. _ p. 656. 

[59] A view of it is published by M. Cotman. 

[60] _St. Sever_. This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs, by the side of the Seine, and was once surrounded by gardens, &c. As you cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you leave it to the right; but it is not so old as _St. Paul_--where, Farin says, the worship of ADONIS was once performed!

LETTER VI. 

HALLES DE COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE D'ORLEANS (JEANNE D'ARC. )BASSO-RILIEVO OF THE CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR. PALACE AND COURTS OF JUSTICE. 

You must make up your mind to see a few more sights in the city of Rouen, before I conduct you to the environs, or to the summit of _Mont St. Catherine_. We must visit some relics of antiquity, and take a yet morefamiliar survey of the town, ere we strive

 ... Superas evadere ad auras. 

Indeed the information to be gained well merits the toil endured in itsacquisition. The only town in England that can give you any notion ofRouen, is CHESTER; although the similitude holds only in some fewparticulars. I must, in the first place then, make especial mention of theHALLES DE COMMERCE. The _markets_ here are numerous and abundant, and areof all kinds. Cloth, cotton, lace, linen, fish, fruit, vegetables, meat, corn, and wine; these for the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle, wood, iron, earthenware, seeds, and implements of agriculture; these forthe supply of other necessities considered equally important. Each markethas its appropriate site. For picturesque effect, you must visit the _VieuxMarché_, for vegetables and fish; which is kept in an open space, oncefilled by the servants and troops of the old Dukes of Normandy, having theancient ducal palace in front. This is the fountain head whence the minormarkets are supplied. Every stall has a large old tattered sort of umbrellaspread above it, to ward off the rain or rays of heat; and, seen from somepoints of view, the effect of all this, with the ever-restless motion ofthe tongues and feet of the vendors, united to their strange attire, isexceedingly singular and interesting. 

Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the _Marché Neuf_, wherefruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly sold. At this season of the year thereis necessarily little or no fruit, but I could have filled one coat pocketwith eggs for less than half a franc. While on the subject of buying andselling, let us go to the _Halles_ of _Rouen_; being large public buildingsnow exclusively appropriated to the sale of cloths, linen, and the varied_et-ceteras_ of mercery. These are at once spacious and interesting in ahigh degree. They form the divisions of the open spaces, or squares, wherethe markets just mentioned are held; and were formerly the appurtenances ofthe palaces and chateaux of the old Dukes of Normandy: the _latter_ ofwhich are now wholly demolished. You must rise betimes on a Friday morning, to witness a sight of which you can have no conception in England: unlessit be at a similar scene in _Leeds_. By six o'clock the busy world is inmotion within these halls. Then commences the incessant and inconceivablevociferation of buying and selling. The whole scene is alive, and carriedon in several large stone-arched rooms, supported by a row of pillars inthe centre. Of these halls, the largest is about three hundred and twentyEnglish feet in length, by fifty-five in width. The centre, in eachdivision, contains tables and counters for the display of cloth, cotton, stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The display of divers colours--thecommendations bestowed by the seller, and the reluctant assent of thepurchaser--the animated eye of the former, and the calculating brow of thelatter--the removal of one set of wares, and the bringing on of another--inshort, the never-ceasing succession of sounds and sights astonishes thegravity of an Englishman; whose astonishment is yet heightened by theextraordinary good humour which every where prevails. The laugh, the joke, the équivoque, and reply, were worth being recorded in pointed metre;--andwhat metre but that of Crabbe could possibly render it justice? By nine ofthe clock all is hushed. The sale is over: the goods are cleared; and bothbuyers and sellers have quitted the scene. 

From _still_, let me conduct you to _active_ life. In other words, let ushasten to take a peep at the _Horse and Cattle Market_; which is fixed inthe very opposite part of the town; that is, towards the northernBoulevards. The horses are generally entire: and indeed you have scarcelyany thing in England which exceeds the _Norman horse_, properly sounderstood. This animal unites the hardiness of the mule with the strengthof his own particular species. He is also docile, and well trained; and aNorman, from pure affection, thinks he can never put enough harness uponhis back. I have seen the face and shoulders of a cart-horse almost buriedbeneath a profusion of ornament by way of collar; and have beheld afarmer's horse, led out to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous andstriking as those of a General's charger brought forward for a review. Thecarts and vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels, which diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of thewheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently projecting: while theeternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to nervous ears. Onmarket days, the horses stand pretty close to each other for sale; and areled off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive verydexterously to get out of the way of their active hoofs. The French seem tohave an instinctive method of doing that, which, with ourselves, seems todemand forethought and deliberation. 

Of the STREETS, in this extraordinary city, that of the _Great Clock--(Ruede la Grosse Horloge)_ which runs in a straight line from the western frontof the Cathedral, at right angles with the _Rue des Carmes_, is probablythe most important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on ourentrance, (in the cabriolet of the Diligence) beneath the arch to the upperpart of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we were lost inadmiration at the singularity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, andenjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or rather on oneside of this arch; over which is sculptured a motley group of insipidfigures, of the latter time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clockmerits a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to the right, onlooking at it. It was within this old tower that a bell was formerlytolled, at nine o'clock each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad toreturn within the walls of the city. [61]

Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp descent, weobserved a stand of hackney coaches in a small square, called _La Place dela Pucelle_: that is, the place where the famous JEANNE D'ARC[62] wasimprisoned, and afterwards burnt. What sensations possess us as we gaze oneach surrounding object!--although, now, each surrounding object hasundergone a palpable change! Ah, my friend--what emotions were _once_excited within this small space! What curiosity, and even agony of mind, mingled with the tumults of indignation, the shouts of revenge, and theexclamations of pity! But life now goes on just the same as if nothing ofthe kind had happened here. The past is forgotten. This hapless Joan of Arcis one of the many, who, having been tortured as heretics, have beenafterwards reverenced as martyrs. Her statue was, not very long after herexecution, almost _adored_ upon that very spot where her body had beenconsigned with execrations to the flames. The square, in which this statuestands, contains probably one of the very oldest houses in Rouen--and asinteresting as it is ancient. It is invisible from without: but you open awooden gate, and quickly find yourself within a small quadrangle, havingthree of its sides covered with basso-rilievo figures in plaster. That sidewhich faces you is evidently older than the left: indeed I have nohesitation in assigning it to the end of the XVth century. The clusteredornaments of human figures and cattle, with which the whole of the exterioris covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures, chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed missals of thesame period. The taste which prevails in them is half French and halfFlemish. Not so is the character of the plaster figures which cover the_left_ side on entering. These, my friend, are no less than therepresentation of the procession of Henry VIII. And Francis I. To thefamous CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR: of which Montfaucon[63] has publishedengravings. Having carefully examined this very curious relic, of thebeginning of the sixteenth century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing thecopy of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by him) to be mostegregiously faithless. I visited it again and again, considering it to beworth all the "huge clocks" in Rouen put together. I hardly know how totake you from this interesting spot--from this exhibition of beautiful oldart--especially too when I consider that Francis himself once occupied themansion, and held a Council here, with both English and French; that hisbugles once sounded from beneath the gate way, and that his goblets oncesparkled upon the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trustthat the Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this architectural relicto perish, without leaving behind a substantial and faithful representationof it. [64]

While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and, crossingthe _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_, contrive to place you in the centre of thesquare which is formed by the PALAIS DE JUSTICE. The inhabitants considerthis building as the principal _lion_ in their city. It has indeed claimsto notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a criticin Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. At the entreatyof the provincial States, through the interest of the famous Cardinald'Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This building precisely marks therestoration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style ofarchitecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth, this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in manyrespects: for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pureGrecian--but an injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders arerunning up the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and theGothic ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing, taste. Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole. Theexternal ornaments are frequently heavy, from their size and elaborateexecution; and they seem to be _stuck on_ to the main building withoutrhyme or reason. 

The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and the prisonersare confined in the lower part of the building to the left: above which youmount by a flight of stone steps, which conducts you to a singularlycurious hall, [65] about one hundred and seventy-five English feet inlength--roofed by wooden ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying amost curious and exact specimen of carpenter's work. This is justly shewnand commented upon to the enquiring traveller. Parts of the building aredevoted to the courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almostevery description. The first Presidents of the Parliament lived formerly inthe building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now taken avery different turn. Upon the whole, this _Town Hall_, or call it what youwill, is rather a magnificent structure; and certainly superior to mostprovincial buildings of the kind which we possess in England. I should tellyou that the courts for commercial causes are situated near the quays, atthe south part of the town: and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me thither, (and who possesses the choicest library[66] of antiquarian books, of alldescriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see)carried me to the _Hall of Commerce_, which, among other apartments, contains a large chamber (contiguous to the Court of Justice) covered with_fleurs de lys_ upon a light blue ground. It is now however much in need ofreparation. Fresh lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary toharmonise with a large oil-painting at one end of it, in which isrepresented the reception of Louis XVI. At Rouen by the Mayor and Deputiesof the town, in 1786. All the figures are of the size of life, well paintedafter the originals, and appear to be strong resemblances. On enquiring howmany of them were now living, I was told that--ALL WERE DEAD! The fate ofthe _principal_ figure is but too well known. They should have thisinteresting subject--interesting undoubtedly to the inhabitants--executedby one of their best engravers. It represents the unfortunate Louis quitein the prime of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which Ihave yet seen in painting or in engraving. 

It is right however that you should know, that, in the Tribunal for thedetermination of commercial causes, there sits a very respectable Bench ofJudges: among whom I recognised one that had perfectly the figure, air, andcountenance, of an Englishman. On enquiry of my guide, I found mysupposition verified. He _was_ an Englishman; but had been thirty years aresident in _Rouen_. The judicial costume is appropriate in every respect;but I could not help smiling, the other morning, upon meeting my friend thejudge, standing before the door of his house, in the open street--with ahairy cap on--leisurely smoking his pipe--And wherein consisted the harm ofsuch a _delassement_?

[61] [I apprehend this custom to be prevalent in fortified towns:--as Rouen _formerly_ was--and as I found such custom to obtain at the present day, at Strasbourg. Mons. Licquet says that the allusion to the curfew--or _couvre-feu_--as appears in the previous edition--and which the reader well knows was established by the Conqueror with us--was no particular badge of the slavery of the English. It had been _previously_ established by William in NORMANDY. Millot is referred to as the authority. ]

[62] _the famous_ JEANNE D'ARC. ] Goube, in the second volume of his _Histoire du Duché de Normandie_, has devoted several spiritedly written pages to an account of the trial and execution of this heroine. Her history is pretty well known to the English--from earliest youth. Goube says that her mode of death had been completely prejudged; for that, previously to the sentence being passed, they began to erect "a scaffold of plaster, so raised, that the flames could not at first reach her--and she was in consequence consumed by a slow fire: her tortures being long and horrible. " Hume has been rather too brief: but he judiciously observes that the conduct of the Duke of Bedford "was equally barbarous and dishonourable. " Indeed it were difficult to pronounce which is entitled to the greatest abhorrence--the imbecility of Charles VII. The baseness of John of Luxembourg, or the treachery of the Regent Bedford?

 The _identical_ spot on which she suffered is not now visible, according to Millin; that place having been occupied by the late _Marché des Veaux_. It was however not half a stone's throw from the site of the present statue. In the _Antiquités Nationales_ of the last mentioned author (vol. Iii. Art. Xxxvi. ) there are three plates connected with the History of JOAN of ARC. The _first_ plate represents the _Porte Bouvreuil_ to the left, and the circular old tower to the right--in which latter Joan was confined, with some houses before it; the middle ground is a complete representation of the rubbishing state by which many of the public buildings at Rouen are yet surrounded; and French taste has enlivened the foreground with a picture of a lover and his mistress, in a bocage, regaling themselves with a flagon of wine. The old circular tower ("qui vit gémir cette infortunée, " says Millin) exists no longer. The second plate represents the fountain which was built in the market-place upon the very spot where the Maid suffered, and which spot was at first designated by the erection of a cross. From the style of the embellishments it appears to have been of the time of Francis I. 

 Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken down or demolished in 1755; upon the site of which was built the present tasteless production--resembling, as the author of the _Itinéraire de Rouen_ (p. 69) well observes, "rather a Pallas than the heroine of Orleans. " The name of the author was STODTS. Millin's _third_ plate--of this present existing fountain, is desirable; in as much as it shews the front of the house, in the interior of which are the basso-rilievos of the _Champ de drap d'Or_: for an account of which see afterwards. 

 Millin allows that all PORTRAITS of her--whether in sculpture, or painting, or engraving--are purely IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest, in point of fidelity, was that which was seen in a painted glass window of the church of the _Minimes_ at Chaillot: although the building was not erected till the time of Charles VIII. Yet it might have been a copy of some coeval production. In regard to oil paintings, I take it that the portrait of JUDITH, with a sword in one hand, and the head of Holofernes in the other, has been usually copied (with the omission of the latter accompaniment) as that of JEANNE D'ARC. I hardly know a more interesting collection of books than that which may be acquired respecting the fate of this equally brave and unfortunate heroine. 

[63] Far be it from me to depreciate the labours of Montfaucon. But those who have not the means of getting at that learned antiquarian's _Monarchie Françoise_ may possibly have an opportunity of examining precisely the same representations, of the procession above alluded to, in _Ducarel's Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, Plate XII. Till the year 1726 this extraordinary series of ornament was supposed to represent the _Council of Trent_; but the Abbé Noel, happening to find a salamander marked upon the back of one of the figures, supposed, with greater truth, that it was a representation of the abovementioned procession; and accordingly sent Montfaucon an account of the whole. The Abbé might have found more than one, two, or three salamanders, if he had looked closely into this extraordinary exterior; and possibly, in his time, the surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of the human features, might not have sustained the injuries which time and accident now seem to have inflicted on them. [A beautiful effort in the graphic way representing the entire interior front of this interesting mansion, is said to be published at Rouen. ]

[64] In the previous edition of this work, there appeared a facsimile of a small portion of this bas-relief, representing--as I imagine--the setting out of Francis to meet Henry. Nothing, as far as correctness of detail goes, can give a more faithful resemblance of the PRECISE STATE in which the original appears: the defaced and the entire parts being represented with equal fidelity. Mons. Langlois has given a plate of the entire façade or front--in outline--with great ability; but so small as to give little or no notion of the character of the original. 

[65] In Ducarel's time, "the ground story consisted of a great quadrangle surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone staircase led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as well as external appearance, resembled, though in miniature, Westminster Hall. Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen of the long robe, in their gowns and bands, walking up and down with briefs in their hands, and making a great show of business. " _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 32. [According to Mons. Licquet, this "singularly curious hall" was begun to be built in 1493. It was afterwards, and is still called, _la Salle des Procureurs_. ]

[66] _the choicest library_] Monsieur Riaux, Archiviste de la Chambre de Commerce. This amiable man unites a love of literature with that of architectural antiquities. The library of M. Le Prevost is however as copious as that of Mons. R. 

LETTER VII. 

THE QUAYS. BRIDGE OF BOATS. RUE DU BAC. RUE DE ROBEC. EAUX DE ROBEC ETD'AUBETTE. MONT STE. CATHARINE. HOSPICES--GÉNÉRAL ET D'HUMANITÉ. 

Still tarrying within this old fashioned place? I have indeed yet much toimpart before I quit it, and which I have no scruple in avowing will bewell deserving of your attention. 

Just letting you know, in few words, that I have visited the famouschemical laboratory of M. Vitalis, (_Rue Beauvoisine_) and the yet morewonderful spectacle exhibited in M. Lemere's machine for sawing wood of alldescriptions, into small or large planks, by means of water works--I musttake you along THE QUAYS for a few minutes. These quays are flanked by anarchitectural front, which, were it finished agreeably to the originalplan, would present us with one of the noblest structures in Europe. Thisstone front was begun in the reign of Louis XV. But many and prosperousmust be the years of art, of commerce, and of peace, before moneysufficient can be raised for the successful completion of the pile. Thequays are long, broad, and full of bustle of every description; while insome of the contiguous squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth, and linen, are spread open to catch the observing eye. In the midst of thisvaried and animated scene, walks a well-known character, in his largecocked hat, and with his tin machine upon his back, filled with lemonade orcoffee, surmounted by a bell--which "ever and anon" is sounded for the sakeof attracting customers. He is here copied to the life. 

[Illustration]

As you pass along this animated scene, by the side of the rapid Seine, andits _Bridge of Boats_, you cannot help glancing now and then down thenarrow old-fashioned streets, which run at right angles with thequays--with the innumerable small tile-fashioned pieces of wood, likescales, upon the roofs--which seem as if they would be demolished by everyblast. The narrowness and gloom of these streets, together with the boldand overwhelming projections of the upper stories and roofs, afford astriking contrast to the animated scene upon the quays:--where the sunshines with full freedom, as it were; and where the glittering streamers, at innumerable mast-heads, denote the wealth and prosperity of the town. Ifthe day happen to be fine, you may devote half a morning in contemplating, and mingling with, so interesting a scene. 

We have had frequent thunder-storms of late; and the other Sunday evening, happening to be sauntering at a considerable height above the north-westBoulevards, towards the _Faubourg Cauchoise_, I gained a summit, upon theedge of a gravel pit, whence I looked down unexpectedly and precipitouslyupon the town below. A magnificent and immense cloud was rolling over thewhole city. The Seine was however visible on the other side of it, shininglike a broad silver chord: while the barren, ascending plains, throughwhich the road to Caen passes, were gradually becoming dusk with theovershadowing cloud, and drenched with rain which seemed to be rushing downin one immense torrent. The tops of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St. Ouen were almost veiled in darkness, by the passing storm; but the lowerpart of the tower, and the whole of the nave of each building, were in onestream of golden light--from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. Inten minutes this magically-varied scene settled into the sober, uniformtint of evening; but I can never forget the rich bed of purple and pink, fringed with burnished gold, in which the sun of that evening set! Idescended--absorbed in the recollection of the lovely objects which I hadjust contemplated--and regaled by the sounds of a thousand little gurglingstreamlets, created by the passing tempest, and hastening to precipitatethemselves into the Seine. 

Of the different trades, especially retail, which are carried on in Rouenwith the greatest success, those connected with the _cotton manufactories_cannot fail to claim your attention; and I fancied I saw, in some of theshop-windows, shawls and gowns which might presume to vie with ourManchester and Norwich productions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the Frenchwere extremely partial to British manufactures: and cotton stockings, coloured muslins, and what are called ginghams, are coveted by them withthe same fondness as we prize their cambric and their lace. Their bestarticles in watches, clocks, silver ornaments, and trinkets, are obtainedfrom Paris. But in respect to upholstery, I must do the Rouennois thejustice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare with their_escrutoires_ and other articles of furniture made of the walnut tree. These upright escrutoires, or writing desks, are in almost every bed-roomof the more respectable hotels: but of course their polish is gone whenthey become stationary furniture in an inn--for the art of rubbing, or whatis called _elbow-grease_ with us--is almost unknown on either side of theSeine. You would be charmed to have a fine specimen of a side board, or anescrutoire, (the latter five or six feet high) made by one of their bestcabinet-makers from choice walnut wood. The polish and tone of colour areequally gratifying; and resemble somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayeraspect. The _or-molu_ ornaments are tastefully put on; but the generalshape, or contour, of the several pieces of furniture, struck me as beingin bad taste. 

He who wishes to be astonished by the singularity of a scene, connectedwith _trade_, should walk leisurely down the RUE DE ROBEC. It is surely theoddest, and as some may think, the most repulsive scene imaginable: But whothat has a rational curiosity could resist such a walk? Here live the_dyers of clothes_--and in the middle of the street rushes the precipitousstream, called _L'Eau de Robec_[67]--receiving colours of all hues. To-dayit is nearly jet black: to-morrow it is bright scarlet: a third day it isblue, and a fourth day it is yellow! Meanwhile it is partially concealed bylittle bridges, communicating with the manufactories, or with that side ofthe street where the work-people live: and the whole has a dismal anddisagreeable aspect--especially in dirty weather: but if you go to one endof it (I think to the east--as it runs east and west) and look down uponthe descending street, with the overhanging upper stories and roofs--theforeshortened, numerous bridges--the differently-coloured dyed clothes, suspended from the windows, or from poles--the constant motion of men, women, and children, running across the bridges--with the rapid, _camelion_stream beneath--you cannot fail to acknowledge that this is one of the mostsingular, grotesque, and uncommon sights in the wonder-working city ofRouen. I ought to tell you that the first famous Cardinal d'Amboise (ofwhom the preceding pages have made such frequent honourable mention) causedthe _Eau de Robec_ to be directed through the streets of Rouen, from itsoriginal channel or source in a little valley near _St. Martin du Vivien_. Formerly there was a much more numerous clan of these "teinturiers" in theRue de Robec--but they have of late sought more capacious premises in thefauxbourgs _de St. Hilaire_ and _de Martainville_. The neighbouringsister-stream, _l'Eau d'Aubette_, is destined to the same purposes as thatof which I have been just discoursing; but I do not at this momentrecollect whether it be also dignified, in its course, by turning a fewcorn mills, ere it empties itself into the Seine. Indeed the thunderingnoise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river, near the church ofSt. Maclou, will not be easily forgotten. Thus you see of what various, strange, and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed. Bustle, noise, life and activity, in the midst of an atmosphere unsullied by the fumes ofsea coal:--hilarity and apparent contentment:--the spruce bourgeoise andthe slattern fille de chambre:--attired in vestments of deep crimson anddark blue--every thing flits before you as if touched by magic, and as ifsorrow and misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants. 

"Paullò majora canamus. " In other words, let us leave the Town for theCountry. Let us hurry through a few more narrow and crowded alleys, courts, and streets--and as the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards toenjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs from the MONT STE. CATHARINE.... Indeed, my friend, I sincerely wish that you could haveaccompanied me to the summit of this enchanting eminence: but as you arefar away, you must be content with a brief description of our littleexpedition thither. [68] The Mont Ste. Catharine, which is entirely chalk, is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of Rouen;or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation from which thecity is to be viewed to the greatest possible advantage. It lies to theleft of the Seine, in your way from the town; and the ascent beginsconsiderably beyond the barriers. Indeed it is on the route to Paris. Wetook an excellent _fiacre_ to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, thatour legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivitiesimmediately above; and leaving the main road to the right, we sooncommenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest. But there was not muchlabour or much difficulty: so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on eachlittle eminence, our admiration seemed to encrease--till, gaining thehighest point, looking towards the west, we found ourselves immediatelyabove the town and the whole of its environs.... 

 "Heavens, what a goodly prospect spread around!"

The prospect was indeed "goodly--" being varied, extensive, fertile, andluxuriant ... In spite of a comparatively backward spring. The city was themain object, not only of attraction, but of astonishment. Although thepoint from which we viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level withthe summit of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, asit were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves. We saw eachchurch, each public edifice, and almost each street; nay, we began to thinkwe could discover almost every individual stirring in them. The soldiers, exercising on the parade in the Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely twostones' throw from us; while the sounds of their music reached us in themost distinct and gratifying manner. No "Diable boiteux" could ever havetransported a "Don Cleophas Léandro Perez Zambullo" to a more favourablesituation for a knowledge of what was passing in a city; and if the houseshad been unroofed, we could have almost discerned whether the _escrutoires_were made of mahogany or walnut-wood! This wonder-working effect proceedsfrom the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere, and the absence ofsea-coal fume. The sky was perfectly blue--the generality of the roofs werealso composed of blue slate: this, added to the incipient verdure of theboulevards, and the darker hues of the trunks of the trees, upon thesurrounding hills--the lengthening forests to the left, and the numerouswhite "maisons de plaisance"[69] to the right--while the Seine, with itshundred vessels, immediately below, to the left, and in face of you--withits cultivated little islands--and the sweeping meadows or race-ground[70]on the other side--all, or indeed any, of these objects could not fail toexcite our warmest admiration, and to make us instinctively exclaim "thatsuch a panorama was perfectly unrivalled!"

We descended Mont Ste. Catharine on the side facing the _Hospice Général_:a building of a very handsome form, and considerable dimensions. It is anoble establishment for foundlings, and the aged and infirm of both sexes. I was told that not fewer than twenty-five hundred human beings weresheltered in this asylum; a number, which equally astonished and delightedme. The descent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing; beingcomposed of serpentine little walks, through occasional alleys of trees andshrubs, to the very base of the hill, not many hundred yards from thehospital. The architecture of this extensive building is more mixed thanthat of its neighbour the _Hospice d'Humanité_, on account of the differenttimes in which portions of it were added: but, upon the whole, you arerather struck with its approach to what may be called magnificence ofstyle. I was indeed pleased with the good order and even good breeding ofits motley inhabitants. Some were strolling quietly, with their arms behindthem, between rows of trees:--others were tranquilly sitting upon benches:a third group would be in motion within the squares of the building: afourth appeared in deep consultation whether the _potage_ of to day werenot inferior to that of the preceding day?--"Que cherchez vous, Monsieur?"said a fine looking old man, touching, and half taking off, his cocked hat;"I wish to see the Abbé Turquier, "--rejoined I. "Ah, il vient desortir--par ici, Monsieur. " "Thank you. " "Monsieur je vous souhaite le bonjour--au plaisir de vous revoir!" And thus I paced through the squares ofthis vast building. The "Portier" had a countenance which our Wilkie wouldhave seized with avidity, and copied with inimitable spirit and fidelity. 

[67] Bourgueville describes this river, in the sixteenth century, as being "aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge, verte, bleüe, violée & autres couleurs, selon qu'vn grand nombre de teinturiers qui sont dessus, la diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs maneures. " _Antiquitez de Caen_, p. 36. 

[68] _expedition thither_. ]--When John Evelyn visited this neighbourhood, in 1644, "the country so abounded with _wolves_, that a shepherd, whom he met, told him that one of his companions was strangled by one of them the day before--and that, in the midst of the flock! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears and apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance. " _Memoirs of the Life and Writings of John Evelyn_, vol. I. P. 50. Edit. 1818. My friend Mr. J. H. Markland visited Mont St. Catharine the year after the visit above described. He was of course enchanted with the view; and told me, that a friend whom he met there, and who had travelled pretty much in Italy, assured him there was nothing like it on the banks of either the _Arno_ or the _Po_. In short, it is quite peculiar to itself--and cannot be surpassed. 

[69] It is thus prettily observed in the little _Itineraire de Rouen_ --"Ces agréables maisons de plaisance appartiennent à des habitants de Rouen qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison, se délasser des embarras de la ville et des fatigues du commerce. " p. 153. 

[70] _race-ground_]--When the English cavalry were quartered here in 1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with each other. These races were gaily attended by the inhabitants; and I heard, from more than one mouth, the warmest commendations bestowed upon the fleetness of the coursers and the skill of the riders. 

LETTER VIII. 

EARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS. CHAP BOOKS. BOOKSELLERS. BOOKCOLLECTORS. 

Now for a little gossip and chit-chat about _Paper, Ink, Books, Printing-Offices_, and curiosities of a GRAPHIC description. Perhaps themost regular method would be to speak of a few of the principal _Presses_, before we take the _productions_ of these presses into consideration. Andfirst, as to the antiquity of printing in Rouen. [71] The art of printing issupposed to have been introduced here, by a citizen of the name of MAUFER, between the years 1470 and 1480. Some of the specimens of Rouen _Missals_and _Breviaries_, especially of those by MORIN, who was the second printerin this city, are very splendid. His device, which is not common, andrather striking, is here enclosed for your gratification. 

[Illustration]

Few provincial towns have been more fertile in typographical productions;and the reputation of TALLEUR, GUALTIER, and VALENTIN, gave greatrespectability to the press of Rouen at the commencement of the sixteenthcentury. 

Yet I am not able to ascertain whether these presses were very fruitful inRomances, Chronicles, and Old Poetry. I rather think, however, that theywere not deficient in this popular class of literature, if I am to judgefrom the specimens which are yet lingering, as it were, in the hands of thecurious. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see could never repress thenatural love of the French, from time immemorial, for light and fancifulreading. 

You know with what pertinacity I grope about old alleys, old courts, by-lanes, and unfrequented corners--in search of what is curious, orprecious, or rare in the book way. But ere we touch that enchanting chord, let us proceed according to the plan laid down. First therefore forprinting-offices. Of these, the names of PÉRIAUX, (_Imprimeur del'Academie_, ) BAUDRY, (_Imprimeur du Roi_) MÉGARD, (_Rue Martainville_) andLECRENE-LABBEY, (_Imprimeur-Libraire et Marchand de Papiers_) are mastersof the principal presses; but such is the influence of Paris, or ofmetropolitan fashions, that a publisher will sometimes prefer getting hiswork printed at the capital. [72] Of the foregoing printers, it behoves meto make some mention; and yet I can speak personally but of two: MessieursPériaux and Mégard. M. Periaux is printer to the _Académie des Sciences, Belles-Lettres et Arts de Rouen_, of which academy, indeed, he is himselfan accomplished member. He is quick, intelligent, well-bred, and obligingto the last degree; and may be considered the _Henry Stephen_ of the RouenPrinters. He urged me to call often: but I could visit him only twice. Eachtime I found him in his counting house, with his cap on--shading his eyes:a pen in his right hand, and a proof sheet in his left. Though he rejoicedat seeing me, I could discover (much to his praise) that, like Aldus, hewished me to "say my saying quickly, "[73] and to leave him to his _deles_and _stets_! He has a great run of business, and lives in one of thosestrange, old-fashioned houses, in the form of a square, with an outsidespiral staircase, so common in this extraordinary city. He introduced me tohis son, an intelligent young man--well qualified to take the labouringoar, either upon the temporary or permanent retirement of his parent. [74]

Of Monsieur MÉGARD, who may be called the ancient _Jenson_, or the modern_Bulmer_, of Rouen, I can speak only in terms of praise--both as a civilgentleman and as a successful printer. He is doubtless the most elegantprinter in this city; and being also a publisher, his business is veryconsiderable. He makes his regular half yearly journeys among theneighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly brings home the fruits ofhis enterprise and industry. On my first visit, M. Mégard was from home;but Madame, "son épouse, l'attendoit à chaque moment!" There is aparticular class of women among the French, which may be said to besingularly distinguished for their intelligence, civility, and goodbreeding. I mean the wives of the more respectable tradesmen. Thus I foundit, in addition to a hundred similar previous instances, with MadameMégard. "Mais Monsieur, je vous prie de vous asseoir. Que voulez vous?" "Iwish to have a little conversation with your husband. I am an enthusiasticlover of the art of printing. I search every where for skilful printers, and thus it is that I come to pay my respects to Monsieur Mégard. " We bothsat down and conversed together; and I found in Madame Mégard acommunicative, and well-instructed, representative of the said ancientJenson, or modern Bulmer. "Enfin, voilà mon mari qui arrive"--said Madame, turning round, upon the opening of the door:--when I looked forward, andobserved a stout man, rather above the middle size, with a countenanceperfectly English--but accoutred in the dress of the _national guard_, witha grenadier cap on his head. Madame saw my embarrassment: laughed: and intwo minutes her husband knew the purport of my visit. He began byexpressing his dislike of the military garb: but admitted the absolutenecessity of adopting such a measure as that of embodying a national guard. "Soyez le bien venu; Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible, Monsieur, del'honneur que vous me faites--vû que vous êtes antiquaire typographique, etque vous avez publié des ouvrages relatifs à notre art. Mais ce n'est pasici qu'il faut en chercher de belles épreuves. C'est à Paris. "

I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was well acquainted withthe fine productions of _Didot_, and had also seen the less aspiring onesof himself; of which indeed I had reason to think his townsmen might beproud. This I spoke with the utmost sincerity. My first visit concludedwith two elegant little book-presents, on the part of M. Megard--one being_Heures de Rouen, à l'usage du Diocese_, 1814, 12mo. And the other_Etrennes nouvelles commodes et utiles_; 1815, 12mo. --the former bound ingreen morocco; and the latter in calf, with gilt leaves, but printed on asort of apricot-tinted paper--producing no unpleasing effect. Both areexceedingly well executed. My visits to M. Mégard were rather frequent. Hehas a son at the Collége Royale, or Lycée, whither I accompanied him, oneSunday morning, and took the church of that establishment in the way. It isbuilt entirely in the Italian style of architecture: is exceedinglyspacious: has a fine organ, and is numerously attended. The pictures I sawin it, although by no means of first-rate merit, quite convince me that itis in churches of _Roman_, and not of _Gothic_ architecture, that paintingsproduce the most harmonious effect. This college and church form a nobleestablishment, situated in one of the most commanding eminences of thetown. From some parts of it, the flying buttresses of the nave of the Abbeyof St. Ouen, with the Seine at a short distance, surmounted by the hillsand woods of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the most gloriouslypicturesque manner. 

But the printer who does the most business--or rather whose business liesin the lower department of the art, in bringing forth what are called _chapbooks_--is LECRENE-LABBEY--_imprimeur-libraire et marchand de papiers_. Thevery title imports a sort of _Dan Newberry's_ repository. I believe howeverthat Lecrêne-Labbey's business is much diminished. He once lived in the_Rue de la Grosse-Horloge_, No. 12: but at present carries on trade in oneof the out-skirting streets of the town. I was told that the premises henow occupies were once an old church or monastery, and that a thousandfluttering sheets are now suspended, where formerly was seen the solemnprocession of silken banners, with religious emblems, emblazoned in coloursof all hues. I called at the old shop, and supplied myself with a dingycopy of the _Catalogue de la Bibliothéque Bleue_--from which cataloguehowever I could purchase but little; as the greater part of the old books, several of the _Caxtonian stamp_, had taken their departures. It was fromthis Catalogue that I learnt the precise character of the works destinedfor common reading; and from hence inferred, what I stated to you a littletime ago, that _Romances, Rondelays_, and chivalrous stories, are yet readwith pleasure by the good people of France. It is, in short, from thislower, or _lowest_ species of literature--if it must be so designated--thatwe gather the real genius, or mental character of the ordinary classes ofsociety. I do assure you that some of these _chap_ publications aresingularly droll and curious. Even the very rudiments of learning, or themere alphabet-book, meets the eye in a very imposing manner--as in thefollowing facsimile. 

[Illustration]

_Love, Marriage_, and _Confession_, are fertile themes in these littlefarthing chap books. Yonder sits a fille de chambre, after her work isdone. She is intent upon some little manual, taken from the _BibliothèqueBleue_. Approach her, and ask her for a sight of it. She smiles, andreadily shews you _Catéchisme à l'usage des Grandes Filles pour êtreMariées; ensemble la manière d'attirer les Amans_. At the first glance ofit, you suppose that this is entirely, from beginning to end, a wild andprobably somewhat indecorous manual of instruction. By no means; for readthe _Litanies_ and _Prayer_ with which it concludes, and which I here send;admitting that they exhibit a strange mixture of the simple and theserious. 

 LITANIES. 

 _Pour toutes les Filles qui désirent entrer en menage_. 

 _Kyrie, _ je voudrois, _Christe_, être mariée. _Kyrie_, je prie tous les Saints, _Christe_, que ce soin demain. _Sainte Marie_, tout le Monde se marie. _Saint Joseph_, que vous ai-je fait? _Saint Nicolas_, ne m'oubliez pas. _Saint Médérie_, que j'aie un bon mari. _Saint Matthieu_, qu'il craigne Dieu. _Saint Jean_, qu'il m'aime tendrement. _Saint Bruno_, qu'il soit juli & beau. _Saint Francois_, qu'il me soit fidele. _Saint André_, qu'il soit à mon gré. _Saint Didier_, qu'il aime à travailler. _Saint Honoré_, qu'il n'aime pas à jouer. _Saint Severin_, qu'il n'aime pas le vin. _Saint Clément_, qu'il soit diligent. _Saint Sauveur_, qu'il ait bon coeur. _Saint Nicaise_, que je sois à mon aise. _Saint Josse_, qu'il me donne un carrosse. _Saint Boniface_, que mon mariage se fasse, _Saint Augustin_, dès demain matin. 

 ORAISON. 

 Seigneur, qui avez formé Adam de la terre, et qui lui avez donné Eve pour sa compagne; envoyez-moi, s'il vous plait, un bon mari pour compagnon, non pour la volupté, mais pour vous honorer & avoir des enfants qui vous bénissent. Ainsi soit il. 

Among the books of this class, before alluded to, I purchased a singularlyamusing little manual called "_La Confession de la Bonne Femme_. " It isreally not divested of merit. Whether however it may not have been writtenduring the Revolution, with a view to ridicule the practice of auricularconfession which yet obtains throughout France, I cannot take upon me topronounce; but there are undoubtedly some portions of it which seem soobviously to satirise this practice, that one can hardly help drawing aconclusion in the affirmative. On the other hand it may perhaps beinferred, with greater probability, that it is intended to shew with whatextreme facility a system of _self-deception_ may be maintained. [75]Referring however to the little manual in question, among the variouschoice morceaus which it contains, take the following extracts:exemplificatory of a woman's _evading the main points of confession_. 

 _Confesseur_. Ne voulez vous pas me répondre; en un mot, combien y a-t-il de temps que vous ne vous êtes confessée?

 _La Pénitente. _ Il y a un mois tout juste, car c'étoit le quatrième jour du mois passé, & nous sommes au cinquième du mois courant; or comptez, mon pere, & vous trouverez justement que ... 

 C. C'est assez, ne parlez point tant, & dites moi en peu de mots vos péchés. 

 _Elle raconte les péchés d'autrui. _

 _La Pénitente_. J'ai un enfant qui est le plus méchant garçon que vous ayez jamais vu: il jure, bat sa soeur, il fuit l'école, dérobe tout ce qu'il peut pour jouer; il suit de méchans fripons: l'autre jour en courant il perdit son chapeau. Enfin, c'est un méchant garçon, je veux vous l'amener afin que vous me l'endoctriniez un peu s'il vous plaît. 

 C. Dites-moi vos péchés. 

 P. Mais, mon père, j'ai une fille qui est encore pire. Je ne la peux faire lever le matin: Je l'appelle cent fois: _Marguerite: plait-il ma Mere? lève-toi promptement et descends: j'y vais_. Elle ne bouge pas. _Si tu ne viens maintenant, tu seras battue. _ Elle s'en moque. Quand je l'envoie à la Ville, je lui dis _reviens promptement, ne t'amuse pas_. Cependant, elle s'arrête à toutes les portes comme l'âne d'un meûnier, elle babille avec tous ceux qu'elle rencontre; & quand elle me fait cela, je la bats: ne fais-je pas bien, mon père?

 C. Dites-moi _vos_ péchés et non pas ceux de _vos enfans_. 

 P. Il se trouve, mon père, que nous avons dans notre rue une voisine qui est la plus méchante de toutes les femmes: elle jure, elle querelle tous ceux qui passent, personne ne la peut souffrir, ni son mari, ni ses enfans, & bien souvent elle s'enivre, & vous me dites, mon père, quelle est celle-la? c'est ... 

 C. Ah gardez-vous bien de la nommer; car à la confession il ne faut jamais fair connoitre les personnes dont vous déclarez les péchés. 

 P. C'est elle qui vient se confesser après moi: grondez-la bien, car vous ne lui en sauriez trop dire. 

 C. Taisez-vous donc, & ne parlez que de _vos_ péchés, non pas de ceux _des autres_. 

 _Elle s'accuse de ce qui n'est point péché. _

 _Pénitente_. --Ah! mon père, j'ai fait un grand péché, ah! le grand péché! Hélas je serai damnée, quoique mon confesseur m'ait defendu de le dire j'amais, néanmoins mon père je vais vous le declarer. 

 C. Ne le dites point, puisque votre confesseur vous l'a defendu, je ne veux point l'entendre. 

 P. Ah! n'importe; je veux vous le dire, c'est un trop grand péché: J'ai battu ma mère. 

 C. Vous avez battu votre mère! Ah! misérable, c'est un cas réservé & un crime qui mérite la potence. Et quand l'avez-vous battue?

 P. Quand j'étois petite de l'âge de quatre ans. 

 C. Ah! simple, ne savez-vous pas que tout ce que les enfans font avant l'âge de raison, qui est environ l'âge de sept ans, ne sauroit être un péché. 

There is however one thing, which I must frankly declare to you as entitledto distinct notice and especial commendation. It is, the method of teaching"catechisms" of a different and higher order: I mean the CHURCH CATECHISMS. Both the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen have numerous side chapels. Within these side chapels are collected, on stated days of the week, theyoung of both sexes. They are arranged in a circle. A priest, in his whiterobes, is seated, or stands, in the centre of them. He examines, questions, corrects, or commends, as the opportunity calls for it. His manner iswinning and persuasive. His action is admirable. The lads shew him greatrespect, and are rarely rude, or seen to laugh. Those who answer well, andpay the greater attention, receive, with words of commendation, gentle patsupon the head--and I could not but consider the blush, with which this markof favour was usually received, as so many presages of future excellence inthe youth. I once witnessed a most determined catechetical lecture ofgirls; who might be called, in the language of their matrimonial catechism, "de grandes filles. " It was on an evening, in the Chapel of Our Lady in St. Ouen's Abbey, that this examination took place. Two elderly priestsattended. The responses of the females were as quick as they were correct;the eye being always invariably fixed on the pavement, accompanied with agravity and even piety of expression. A large group of mothers, withnumerous spectators, were in attendance. A question was put, to which asupposed incorrect response was given. It was repeated, and the same answerfollowed. The priest hesitated: something like vexation was kindling in hischeek, while the utmost calmness and confidence seemed to mark thecountenance of the examinant. The attendant mothers were struck withsurprise. A silence for one minute ensued. The question related to the"Holy Spirit. " The priest gently approached the girl, and softlyarticulated--"Mais, ma chère considerez un peu, "--and repeated thequestion. "Mon pere, (yet more softly, rejoined the pupil) j'ai bienconsiderée, et je crois que c'est comme je vous l'ai déjà dit. " The Priestcrossed his hands upon his breast ... Brought down his eyebrows in athoughtful mood ... And turning quickly round to the girl, addressed her inthe most affectionate tone of voice--"Ma petite, --tu as bien dit; etj'avois tort. " The conduct of the girl was admirable: She curtsied, blushed... And with eyes, from which tears seemed ready to start, surveyedthe circle of spectators ... Caught the approving glance of her mother, andsunk triumphantly upon her chair--with the united admiration of teachers, companions, parents and spectators! The whole was conducted with the mostperfect propriety; and the pastors did not withdraw till they were fairlyexhausted. A love of truth obliges me to confess that this reciprocity ofzeal, on the part of master and pupil, is equally creditable to bothparties; and especially serviceable to the cause of religion and morality. 

Let me here make honourable mention of the kind offices of _MonsieurLongchamp_, who volunteered his friendly services in walking over half thetown with me, to shew me what he justly considered as the most worthy ofobservation. It is impossible for a generous mind to refuse its testimonyto the ever prompt kindness of a well-bred Frenchman, in rendering you allthe services in his power. Enquire the way, --and you have not only a fingerquickly pointing to it, but the owner of the finger must also put himselfin motion to accompany you a short distance upon the route, and that toouncovered! "Mais, Monsieur, mettez votre chapeau ... Je vous en prie ... Mille pardons. " "Monsieur ne dites pas un seul mot ... Pour mon chapeau, qu'il reste à son aise. "

Among book-collectors, Antiquaries, and Men of Taste, let me speak withbecoming praise of the amiable and accomplished M. AUGUSTE LE PREVOST--whois considered, by competent judges, to be the best antiquary in Rouen. [76]Mr. Dawson Turner, (a name, in our own country, synonymous with all that isliberal and enlightened in matters of virtù) was so obliging as to give mea letter of introduction to him; and he shewed me several rare and splendidworks, which were deserving of the commendations that they received fromtheir owner. 

M. Le Prevost very justly discredits any remains of Roman masonry at Rouen;but he will not be displeased to see that the only existing relics of thecastle or town walls, have been copied by the pencil of a late travellingfriend. What you here behold is probably of the fourteenth century. 

[Illustration]

The next book-collector in commendation of whom I am bound to speak, isMONSIEUR DUPUTEL; a member, as well as M. Le Prevost, of the _Academy ofBelles-Lettres_ at Rouen. The Abbé Turquier conducted me thither; and Ifound, in the owner of a choice collection of books, a well-bred gentleman, and a most hearty bibliomaniac. He has comparatively a small library; but, withal, some very curious, scarce, and interesting volumes. M. Duputel issmitten with that amiable passion, --the love of printing for _privatedistribution_--thus meriting to become a sort of Roxburghe Associate. Hewas so good as to beg my acceptance of the "nouvelle édition" of his"_Bagatelles Poétiques, "_ printed in an octavo volume of about 112 pages, at Rouen, in 1816. On taking it home, I discovered the following notinfelicitous version of our Prior's beautiful little Poem of _the Garland_. 

 _La Guirlande_. 

 _Traduction de l'Anglais de Prior_. 

 Pour orner de Chloé les cheveux ondoyans, Parmi les fleurs nouvellement écloses J'avais choisi les lis les plus brillans, Les oeillets les plus beaux, et les plus fraîches roses. 

 Ma Chloé sur son front les plaça la matin: Alors on vit céder sans peine, Leur vif éclat à celui de son teint, Leur doux parfum à ceux de son haleine. 

 De ses attraits ces fleurs paraissaient s'embellir, Et sur ses blonds cheveux les bergers, les bergères Les voyaient se faner avec plus de plaisir Qu'ils ne les voyaient naître au milieu des parterres. 

 Mais, le soir, quand leur sein flétri Eut cessé d'exhaler son odeur séduisante, Elle fixa, d'un regard attendri, Cette guirlande, hélas! n'aguères si brillante. 

 Des larmes aussi-tôt coulent de ses beaux yeux. Que d'éloquence dans ces larmes! Jamais pour l'exprimer, le langage des dieux, Tout sublime qu'il est, n'aurait assez de charmes. 

 En feignant d'ignorer ce tendre sentiment; "Pourquoi, " lui dis-je, "ô ma sensible amie, Pourquoi verser des pleurs? et par quel changement Abandonner ton ame à la melancholie?"

 "Vois-tu comme ces fleurs languissent tristement?" Me dit, en soupirant, ce moraliste aimable, "De leur fraîcheur, en un moment, S'est éclipsé le charme peu durable. 

 Tel est, hélas! notre destin; Fleur de beauté ressemble à celles des prairies; On les voit toutes deux naître avec le matin, Et dès le soir être flétries. 

 Estelle hier encor brillait dans nos hameaux, Et l'amour attirait les bergers sur ses traces; De la mort, aujourd'hui, I'impitoyable faulx A moissonné sa jeunesse et ses graces. 

 Soumise aux mêmes lois, peut-être que demain, Comme elle aussi, Damon, j'aurai cessé de vivre.... Consacre dans tes vers la cause du chagrin Auquel ton amante se livre. "

 p. 92. 

The last and not the least of book-collectors, which I have had anopportunity of visiting, is MONSIEUR RIAUX. With respect to what may becalled a ROUENNOISE LIBRARY, that of M. Riaux is greatly preferable to anywhich I have seen; although I am not sure whether M. Le Prevost'scollection contain not nearly as many books. M. Riaux is himself a man offirst-rate book enthusiasm; and unites the avocations of his business withthe gratification of his literary appetites, in a manner which does himinfinite honour. A city like Rouen should have a host of such inhabitants;and the government, when it begins to breathe a little from recentembarrassments, will, I hope, cherish and support that finest of allpatriotic feelings, --a desire to preserve the RELICS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMSof PAST AGES. Normandy is fertile beyond conception in objects which maygratify the most unbounded passion in this pursuit. It is the country whereformerly the harp of the minstrel poured forth some of its sweeteststrains; and the lay and the fabliaux of the twelfth and thirteenthcenturies, which delight us in the text of Sainte Palaye, and in theversions of Way, owed their existence to the combined spirit of chivalryand literature, which never slumbered upon the shores of Normandy. 

Farewell now to ROUEN. [77] I have told you all the tellings which I thoughtworthy of communication. I have endeavoured to make you saunter with me inthe streets, in the cathedral, the abbey, and the churches. We have, inimagination at least, strolled together along the quays, visited the hallsand public buildings, and gazed with rapture from Mont Ste. Catharine uponthe enchanting view of the city, the river, and the neighbouring hills. Wehave from thence breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and surveyed acountry equally beautified by art, and blessed by nature. Our hearts, fromthat same height, have wished all manner of health, wealth, and prosperity, to a land thus abounding in corn and wine, and oil and gladness. We havesilently, but sincerely prayed, that swords may for ever be "turned intoplough-shares, and spears into pruning-hooks:"--that all heart-burnings, antipathies, and animosities, may be eternally extinguished; and that, fromhenceforth, there may be no national rivalries but such as tend toestablish, upon a firmer footing, and upon a more comprehensive scale, thepeace and happiness of fellow-creatures, of whatever persuasion they maybe:--of such, who sedulously cultivate the arts of individual and ofnational improvement, and blend the duties of social order with the highercalls of morality and religion. Ah! my friend, these are neither foolishthoughts nor romantic wishes. They arise naturally in an honest heart, which, seeing that all creation is animated and upheld by ONE and the SAMEPOWER, cannot but ardently hope that ALL may be equally benefited by areliance upon its goodness and bounty. From this eminence we have descendedsomewhat into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled inflower-gardens, and associated with publishers and collectors ofworks--both of the dead and of the living. So now, fare you well. Commendme to your family and to our common friends, --especially to the Gorburghersshould they perchance enquire after their wandering Vice President. Manywill be the days passed over, and many the leagues traversed, ere I meetthem again. Within twenty-four hours my back will be more decidedly turnedupon "dear old England"--for that country, in which her ancient kings onceheld dominion, and where every square mile (I had almost said _acre_) isequally interesting to the antiquary and the agriculturist. I salute youwholly, and am yours ever. 

[71] The reader may possibly not object to consult two or three pages of the _Bibliographical Decameron_, beginning at page 137, vol. Ii. Respecting a few of the early Rouen printers. The name of MAUFER, however, appears in a fine large folio volume, entitled _Gaietanus de Tienis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor. Libros_, of the date of 1476--in the possession of Earl Spencer. See _Æd. Althorp_. Vol. Ii. P. 134. From the colophon of which we can only infer that Maufer was a _citizen of Rouen_. [According to M. Licquet, the first book printed at Rouen--a book of the greatest rarity--was entitled _Les Croniques de Normandie, par Guillaume Le Talleur_, 1487, folio. ]

[72] [Since the publication of the first edition of this Tour, I have had _particular_ reason to become further acquainted with the partiality of the Rouennois for Parisian printing. When M. Licquet did me the honour to translate my IXth Letter, subjoining notes, (which cut their own throats instead of that of the author annotated upon) he employed the press of Mons. Crapelet, at Paris: a press, as eminently distinguished for its beauty and accuracy, as its Director has proved himself to be for his narrow-mindedness and acrimony of feeling. M. L. (as I learnt from a friend who conversed with him, and as indeed I naturally expected) seemed to be sorry for what he had done. ]

[73] _like Aldus, "say my saying" quickly_. ] Consult Mr. Roscoe's _Life of Leo X. _ vol. I. P. 169-70, 8vo. Edit. Unger, in his Life of Aldus, _edit. Geret. _ p. Xxxxii. Has a pleasant notice of an inscription, to the same effect, put over the door of his printing-office by Aldus. [It has been quoted to satiety, and I therefore omit it here. ]

[74] [Mons. Périaux has lately published a Dictionary of the Streets of Rouen, in alphabetical order; in two small, unostentatious, and useful octavo volumes. ]

[75] [Mons. Licquet translates the latter part of the above passage thus:--"avec quelle facilité nous parvenons à nous abuser nous-mêmes, "--adding, in a note, as follows: "J'avais d'abord vu un tout autre sens dans la phrase anglaise. Si celui que j'adopte n'était pas encore le veritable, j'en demande sincèrement pardon à l'auteur. " In turn, I may not be precisely informed of the meaning and force of the verb "_abuser_"--used by my translator: but I had been better satisfied with the verb _tromper_--as more closely conveying the sense of the original. ]

[76] M. Le Prevost is a belles-lettres Antiquary of the highest order. His "Mémoire faisant suite à l'Essai sur les Romans historiques du moyen âge" may teach modern Normans not to despair when death shall have laid low their present oracle the ABBE DE LA RUE. [I am proud, in this second edition of my Tour, to record the uninterrupted correspondence and friendship of this distinguished Individual; and I can only regret, in common with several friends, that M. Le Prevost will not summon courage sufficient to visit a country, once in such close connexion with his own, where a HEARTY RECEPTION has long awaited him. ]

[77] [The omission, in this place, of the entire IXth Letter, relating to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Rouen, must be accounted for, and it is hoped, approved, on the principle laid down at the outset of this undertaking; namely, to omit much that was purely bibliographical, and of a secondary interest to the general Reader. The bibliography, in the original IXth Letter, being of a partial and comparatively dry description--as relating almost entirely to ancient volumes of Church Rituals--was thought to be better omitted than abridged. Another reason might be successfully urged for its omission. 

 This IXth Letter, which comprehends 22 pages in the previous impression, and about 38 pages in the version, having been translated and _separately_ published in 1821, by Mons. Licquet (who succeeded M. Gourdin as Principal Librarian of the Library in question) I had bestowed upon it particular attention, and entered into several points by way of answer to his remarks, and in justification or explanation of the original matter. In consequence, any _abridgement_ of that original matter must have led to constant notice of the minute remarks, and pigmy attacks, of my critical translator: and the stream of intelligence in the text might have been diverted, or rendered unpalatable, by the observations, in the way of controversy, in the notes. If M. Licquet considers this avowal as the proclaiming of his triumph, he is welcome to the laurels of a Conqueror; but if he can persuade any COMMON FRIENDS that, in the translation here referred to, he has defeated the original author in one essential position--or corrected him in one flagrant inaccuracy--I shall be as prompt to thank him for his labours, as I am now to express my astonishment and pity at his undertaking. When M. Licquet put forth the brochure in question--(so splendidly executed in the press of M. Crapelet--to harmonise, in all respects, with the large paper copies of the original English text) he had but recently occupied the seat of his Predecessor. I can commend the zeal of the newly-appointed Librarian in Chief; but must be permitted to question alike his judgment and his motives. 

 One more brief remark in this place. My translator should seem to commend what is only laudatory, in the original author, respecting his countrymen. Sensitively alive to the notice of their smallest defects, he has the most unbounded powers of digestion for that of their excellences. Thus, at the foot of the ABOVE PASSAGE, in the text, Mons. Licquet is pleased to add as follows--in a note: "Si M. Dibdin ne s'était livré qu'à des digressions de cette nature, il aurait trouvé en France un chorus universel, un concert de voeux unanimes:" vol. I. P. 239. And yet few travellers have experienced a more cordial reception, and maintained a more _harmonious_ intercourse, than HE, who, from the foregoing quotation, is more than indirectly supposed to have provoked opposition and _discord!_]

LETTER IX. 

DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. ST. GEORGE DE BOSCHERVILLE. DUCLAIR. MARIVAUX. THEABBEY OF JUMIEGES. ARRIVAL AT CAUDEBEC. 

_May_, 1818. 

MY DEAR FRIEND. 

In spite of all its grotesque beauties and antiquarian attractions, theCITY OF ROUEN must be quitted--and I am about to pursue my route more inthe character of an independent traveller. No more _Diligence_, or_Conducteur_. I have hired a decent cabriolet, a decent pair of horses, anda yet more promising postilion: and have already made a delightfully ruralmigration. Adieu therefore to dark avenues, gloomy courts, overhangingroofs, narrow streets, cracking whips, the never-ceasing noise of carts andcarriages, and never-ending movements of countless masses ofpopulation:--Adieu!--and in their stead, welcome be the winding road, thefertile meadow, the thickly-planted orchard, and the broad and sweepingSeine!

Accordingly, on the 4th of this month, between the hours of ten and eleven, A. M. The rattling of horses' hoofs, and the echoes of a postilion's whip, were heard within the court-yard of the _Hôtel Vatel_. Monsieur, Madame, Jacques--and the whole fraternity of domestics, were on the alert--"pourfaire les adieux à Messieurs les Anglois. " This Jacques deserves somewhatof a particular notice. He is the prime minister of the Hôtel Vatel. [78] Asomewhat _uncomfortable_ detention in England for five years, in thecharacter of "prisoner of war, " has made him master of a pretty quick andready utterance of common-place phrases in our language; and he is not alittle proud of his attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I consider himquite a phenomenon in his way; and it is right you should know that heaffords a very fair specimen of a sharp, clever, French servant. His bodilymovements are nearly as quick as those of his tongue. He rises, as well ashis brethren, by five in the morning; and the testimonies of this earlyactivity are quickly discovered in the unceasing noise of beating coats, singing French airs, and scolding the boot-boy. He rarely retires to restbefore mid-night; and the whole day long he is in one eternal round ofoccupation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he seems to beconscious of it--declaring that "the English make him saucy, but thatnaturally he is very civil. " He always speaks of human beings in the_neuter_ gender; and to a question whether such a one has been at theHotel, he replies, "I have not seen _it_ to-day. " I am persuaded he is athoroughly honest creature; and considering the pains which are taken tospoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and propriety he conductshimself. 

About eleven o'clock, we sprung forward, at a smart trot, towards thebarriers by which we had entered Rouen. Our postilion was a thorough masterof his calling, and his spurs and whip seemed to know no cessation fromaction. The steeds, perfectly Norman, were somewhat fiery; and we rattledalong the streets, (for the _chaussé_ never causes the least abatement ofpace with the French driver) in high expectation of seeing a thousand raresights ere we reached Havre--equally the limits of our journey, and of ourcontract with the owner of the cabriolet. That accomplished antiquary M. LePrevost, whose name you have often heard, had furnished me with so dainty abill of fare, or carte de voyage; that I began to consider each hour lostwhich did not bring us in contact with some architectural relic ofantiquity, or some elevated position--whence the wandering Seine and woodedheights of the adjacent country might be surveyed with equal advantage. 

You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend, started upon somethinglike a similar expedition:--when the morning has been fair, the sun bright, the breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear. In such moments how the ardourof hope takes possession of one!--How the heart warms, and the conversationflows! The barriers are approached; we turn to the left, and commence ourjourney in good earnest. Previously to gaining the first considerableheight, you pass the village of _Bapeaume_. This village is exceedinglypicturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and is enlivened by a rapidrivulet, which empties itself, in a serpentine direction, into the Seine. You now begin to ascend a very commanding eminence; at the top of which arescattered some of those country houses which are seen from Mont Ste. Catharine. The road is of a noble breadth. The day warmed; and dismounting, we let our steeds breathe freely, as we continued to ascend leisurely. Ourfirst halting-place, according to the instructions of M. Le Prevost, was_St. George de Boscherville_; an ancient abbey established in the twelfthcentury, This abbey is situated about three French leagues from Rouen. Ourroute thither, from the summit of the hill which we had just ascended, layalong a road skirted by interminable orchards now in full bloom. The airwas perfumed to excess by the fragrance of these blossoms. The apple andpear were beautifully conspicuous; and as the sky became still more serene, and the temperature yet more mild by the unobstructed sun beam, it isimpossible to conceive any thing more balmy and genial than was this lovelyday. The minutes seemed to fly away too quickly--when we reached thevillage of _Boscherville_; where stands the CHURCH; the chief remainingrelic of this once beautiful abbey. We surveyed the west front veryleisurely, and thought it an extremely beautiful specimen of thearchitecture of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries; for certainly thereare some portions more ancient than others. A survey of the chapter-housefilled me with mingled sorrow and delight: sorrow, that the Revolution anda modern cotton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its originalcharacter; and delight, that the portions which remained were of suchbeautiful forms, and in such fine preservation. The stone, being of a veryclose-grained quality, is absolutely as white and sound as if it had beenjust cut from the quarry. The room, where a parcel of bare-legged girls andboys were working the respective machineries, had a roof of the mostdelicate construction. [79]

The very sound of a _Monastery_ made me curious to examine the dispositionof the building. Accordingly, I followed my guide through suites ofapartments, up divers stone stair-cases, and along sundry corridors. Inoticed the dormitories with due attention, and of course inquired eagerlyfor the LIBRARY:--but the shelves only remained--either the fear or thefury of the Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of every thing inthe shape of a _book_. The whole was painted white. I counted elevenperpendicular divisions; and, from the small distances between the uppershelves, there must have been a very considerable number of _duodecimos_. The titles of the respective classes of the library were painted in whiteletters upon a dark-blue ground, at top. _Bibles_ occupied the firstdivision, and the _Fathers_ the second: but it should seem that equalimportance was attached to the works of _Heretics_ as to those called_Litterae Humaniores_--for each had a division of equal magnitude. 

On looking out of window, especially from the back part of the building, the eye rests entirely upon what had once been fruitful orchards, abundantkitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet in England, this spot, rich bynature, and desirable from its proximity to a great city, would, ere fortymoons had waned, have grown up into beauty and fertility, and expanded intoluxuriance of condition. 

The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before. On looking at myinstructions I found that we had to stop to examine the remains of an oldcastle at _Delafontaine_--about two English miles from _St. George deBoscherville_. These remains, however, are but the fragments of a ruin, ifI may so speak; yet they are interesting, but somewhat perilous: for a fewbroken portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where appears a stonechimney-piece of very curious construction and ornament. On observing alarge cavity or loop-hole, about half way up the outer wall, I gained it bymeans of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from thence surveyed the landscapebefore me. Here, having for some time past lost sight of the Seine, Icaught a fine bold view of the sweep of that majestic river, now becomingbroader and broader--while, to the left, softly tinted by distance, appeared the beautiful old church we had just quitted: the verdure of thehedges, shrubs, and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the ruddyblossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear. I admit, however, that this delicious morceau of landscape was greatly indebted, for itsenchanting effect, to the blue splendour of the sky, and the softtemperature of the air; while the fragrance of every distended blossomadded much to the gratification of the beholder. But it is time to descendfrom this elevation; and to think of reaching Duclair. 

DUCLAIR is situated close to the very borders of the Seine, which has nowan absolute lake-like appearance. We stopped at the auberge to rest ourhorses; and I commenced a discourse with the master of the inn and hisdaughter; the latter, a very respectable-looking and well-behaved youngwoman of about twenty-two years of age. She was preparing a large cracklingwood-fire to dress a fish called the _Alose_, for the passengers of the_diligence_--who were expected within half an hour. The French think theycan never _butter_ their victuals sufficiently; and it would have produceda spasmodic affection in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he have seenthe enormous piece of butter which this active young _cuisinière_ thoughtnecessary to put into the pot in which the '_Alose_' was to be boiled. Shelaughed at the surprise I expressed; and added "qu'on ne peut rien fairedans la cuisine sans le beurre. " You ought to know, by the by, that the_Alose_, something like our _mackerel_ in flavour, is a large and deliciousfish; and that we were always anxious to bespeak it at the table-d'hôte atRouen. Extricated from the lake of butter in which it floats, when broughtupon table, it forms not only a rich, but a very substantial dish. 

I took a chair and sat in the open air, by the side of the door--enjoyingthe breeze, and much disposed to gossip with the master of the place. Perceiving this, the landlord approached, and addressed me with a pleasantdegree of familiarity. "You are from London, then, Sir?" "I am. " "Ah Sir, Inever think of London but with the most painful sensations. " "How so?""Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker who died in that city before theRevolution. He was in partnership with an English gentleman. Can youpossibly advise and assist me upon the subject?" I told him that my adviceand assistance were literally not worth a sous; but that, such as theywere, he was perfectly welcome to both. "Your daughter Sir, is notmarried?"--"Non, Monsieur, elle n'est pas encore épousée: mais je lui disqu'elle ne sera jamais _heureuse_ avant qu'elle le soit. " The daughter, whohad overheard the conversation, came forward, and looking archly over hershoulder, replied--"ou _malheureuse_, mon père!" A sort of truism, expressed by her with singular epigrammatic force, to which there was nomaking any reply. 

Do you remember, my dear friend; that exceedingly cold winter's night, when, for lack of other book-entertainment, we took it into our heads tohave a rummage among the _Scriptores Historiae Normannorum_ ofDUCHESNE?--and finding therein many pages occupied by _GulielmusGemeticensis_, we bethought ourselves that we would have recourse to thevaluable folio volume yeleped _Neustria Pia_:--where we presently seemed tohold converse with the ancient founders and royal benefactors of certainvenerable establishments! I then little imagined that it would ever fall tomy lot to be either walking or musing within the precincts of the Abbey ofJumieges;--or rather, of the ruins of what was once not less distinguished, as a school of learning, than admired for its wealth and celebrity as amonastic establishment. Yes, my friend, I have seen and visited the ruinsof this Abbey; and I seem to live "mihi carior" in consequence. 

But I know your love of method--and that you will be in wrath if I skipfrom _Duclair_ to JUMIEGES ere the horses have carried us a quarter of aleague upon the route. To the left of _Duclair_, and also washed by thewaters of the Seine, stands _Marivaux_; a most picturesque and highlycultivated spot. And across the Seine, a little lower down, is thebeautiful domain of _La Mailleraye_;--where are hanging gardens, and jetsd'eaux, and flower-woven arbours, and daisy-sprinkled meadows--for therelives and occasionally revels _La Marquise_.... I might have been not onlya spectator of her splendor, but a participator of her hospitality; for myoften-mentioned valuable friend, M. Le Prevost, volunteered me a letter ofintroduction to her. What was to be done? One cannot be everywhere in oneday, or in one journey:--so, gravely balancing the ruins of still lifeagainst the attractions of animated society, I was unchivalrous enough toprefer the former--and working myself up into a sort of fantasy, ofwitnessing the spectered forms of DAGOBERT and CLOVIS, (the fabled foundersof the Abbey) I resolutely turned my back upon _La Mailleraye_, and assteadily looked forwards to JUMIEGES. We ascended very sensibly--thenstriking into a sort of bye-road, were told that we should quickly reachthe place of our destination. A fractured capital, and broken shaft, of thelate Norman time, left at random beneath a hedge, seemed to bespeak thevicinity of the abbey. We then gained a height; whence, looking straightforward, we caught the first glance of the spires, or rather of the westend towers, of the Abbey of Jumieges. [80] "La voilà, Monsieur, "--exclaimedthe postilion--increasing his speed and multiplying the nourishes of hiswhip--"voilà la belle Abbaye!"

We approached and entered the village of Jumieges. Leaving some neat housesto the right and left, we drove to a snug auberge, evidently a portion ofsome of the outer buildings, or of the chapter-house, attached to theAbbey. A large gothic roof, and central pillar, upon entering, attest theancient character of the place. [81] The whole struck us as having beenformerly of very great dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny afternoon, and the villagers quickly crowded round the cabriolet. "Voilà Messieurs lesAnglois, qui viennent voir l'Abbaye--mais effectivement il n'y a rien àvoir. " I told the landlady the object of our visit. She procured us a guideand a key: and within five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey. I cannever forget that entrance. The interior, it is true, has not the magicaleffect, or that sort of artificial burst, which attends the first view of_Tintern_ abbey: but, as the ruin is larger, there is necessarily more toattract attention. Like Tintern also, it is unroofed--yet this unroofinghas proceeded from a different cause: of which presently. The side aislespresent you with a short flattened arch: the nave has none: but you observea long pilaster-like, or alto-rilievo column, of slender dimensions, running from bottom to top, with a sort of Roman capital. The archedcieling and roof are entirely gone. We proceeded towards the easternextremity, and saw more frightful ravages both of time and of accident. Thelatter however had triumphed over the former: but for _accident_ you mustread _revolution_. 

The day had been rather oppressive for a May morning; and we were gettingfar into the afternoon, when clouds began to gather, and the sun becameoccasionally obscured. We seated ourselves upon a grassy hillock, and beganto prepare for dinner. To the left of us lay a huge pile of fragments ofpillars and groinings of arches--the effects of recent havoc: to the right, within three yards, was the very spot in which the celebrated AGNES SOREL, Mistress of Charles VII, lay entombed:[82]--not a relic of mausoleum nowmarking the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited the choicestefforts of his art, and the devotee had repaired to

Breathe a prayer for her soul--and pass on!

What a contrast to the present aspect of things!--to the mixed rubbish andwild flowers with which every spot is now well nigh covered! The mistressof the inn having furnished us with napkins and tumblers, we partook of ourdinner, surrounded by the objects just described, with no ordinarysensations. The air now became oppressive; when, looking through the fewremaining unglazed mullions of the windows, I observed that the clouds grewblacker and blacker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached our ears. The sun however yet shone gaily, although partially; and as the stormneared us, it floated as it were round the abbey, affording--by means ofits purple, dark colour, contrasted with the pale tint of the walls, --oneof the most beautiful painter-like effects imaginable. In an instantalmost--and as if touched by the wand of a mighty necromancer--the wholescene became metamorphosed. The thunder growled, but only growled; and thethreatening phalanx of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away, and melted intothe quiet uniform tint which usually precedes sun-set. Dinner beingdispatched, I rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins which hadsurvived ... Not only the Revolution, but the cupidity of the present ownerof the soil--who is a _rich_ man, living at Rouen--and who loves to disposeof any portion of the stone, whether standing or prostrate, for the sake ofthe lucre, however trifling, which arises from the sale. Surely the wholecorporation of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at their head, ought tostand between this ruthless, rich man, and the abbey--the victim of hisbrutal avarice and want of taste. [83]

The situation of the abbey is delightful. It lies at the bottom of somegently undulating hills, within two or three hundred yards of the Seine. The river here runs gently, in a serpentine direction, at the foot ofwood-covered hills--and all seemed, from our elevated station, indicativeof fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of prosperity, --all--save the mournful andmagnificent remains of the venerable abbey whereon we gazed! In fact, thisabbey exists only as a shell. I descended, strolled about the village, andmingled in the conversation of the villagers. It was a lovely approach ofevening--and men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering, in theopen air. Perceiving that I was anxious to gain information, they flockedaround me--and from one man, in particular, I obtained exact intelligenceabout the havoc which had been committed during the Revolution upon theabbey, The roof had been battered down for the sake of the _lead_--to makebullets; the pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into otherdestructive purposes of warfare; and the great bell had been sold to somespeculators in a cannon-foundery at Rouen. [84] The revolutionary mania hadeven brutalized the Abbot. This man, who must be considered as

 .... Damned to everlasting fame, had been a monk of the monastery; and as soon as he had attained theheadship of it, he disposed of every movable piece of furniture, to gratifythe revolutionary pack which were daily howling at the gates of the abbeyfor entrance! Nor could he plead _compulsion_ as an excuse. He seemedto enjoy the work of destruction, of which he had the uncontrouleddirection. But enough of this wretch. 

The next resting-place was CAUDEBEC: a very considerable village, or rathera small town. You go down a steep descent, on entering it by the route wecame. As you look about, there are singular appearances on all sides--ofhouses, and hanging gardens, and elaborately cut avenues--upon summits, declivities, and on the plain. But the charm of the view, at least to myold-fashioned feelings, was a fine old gothic church, and a very fine spireof what _appeared_ to belong to another. As the evening had completelyset in, I resolved to reserve my admiration of the place till the morrow. 

[78] [I am ignorant of his present destination; but learn that he has quitted the above situation a long time. ]

[79] [Mr. COTMAN has published views of the West Front, the South East, the West Entrance, and the South Transept, with sculptured capitals and basso-relievos, &c. In the whole, seven plates. ]

[80] [Mr. Cotman has published etchings of the West Front: the Towers, somewhat fore-shortened; the Elevation of the Nave--and doorway of the Abbey: the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A somewhat particular and animated description of it will be found in _Lieut. Hall's Travels in France_, 8vo. P. 57, 1819. [In the first edition, I had called the west end towers of the Abbey--"small. " Mons. Licquet has suggested that I must have meant "_comparatively_" small;--in contradistinction to the centre-tower, which would have been larger. We learn also from M. Licquet that the spire of this central tower was demolished in 1573, by the Abbé le Veneur, Bishop of Evreux. What earthly motive could have led to such a brutal act of demolition?]

[81] ["I know perfectly well, says M. Licquet, the little Inn of which the author here speaks. I can assure him that it never formed any portion of the "chapter house. " It was nevertheless une _dependance exterieure_ (I will not attempt a version of this phrase) of the abbey. Dare I venture to say it was the _cowhouse_? (étable aux vaches). Thank you, good Mons. Licquet; but what is a cow-house but "an _outer building_ attached to the Abbey?" Vide supra. ]

[82] [The heart and entrails only of this once celebrated woman were, according to M. Licquet, buried in the above spot. The body was carried to Loches: and BELLEFOREST _(Cosmog. _ vol. I. Part ii. Col. 31-32. Edit. 1575, folio) gives a description of the mausoleum where it was there entombed: a description, adds M. Licquet, which may well serve for the mausoleum that was at Jumieges. ]

[83] [Not the smallest portion or particle of a sigh escapes us, on being told, as my translator has told us, that the "soil" in question has become the property of another Owner. "Laius EST MORT"--are the emphatic words of M. Licquet. ]

[84] [One of the bells of the Abbey of Jumieges is now in the Tower of that of St. Ouen, at Rouen. LICQUET. ]

LETTER X. 

CAUDEBEC. LILLEBONNE. BOLBEC. TANKARVILLE. MONTMORENCI CASTLE. HAVRE DEGRACE. 

My last concluded with our entrance into Caudebec. The present opens with amorning scene at the same place. For a miracle I was stirring before nine. The church was the first object of attraction. For the size of the place, it is really a noble structure: perhaps of the early part of the sixteenth, or latter part of the fifteenth century. [85] I speak of the exteriorgenerally, and of a great portion of the interior. A little shabbygreen-baise covered door (as usual) was half open, and I entered with noordinary expectations of gratification. The painted glass seemed absolutelyto warm the place--so rich and varied were its colours. There is a greatabundance of it, and especially of figures of family-groupskneeling--rather small, but with great appearance of portrait-likefidelity. They are chiefly of the first half of the sixteenth century: andI own that, upon gazing at these charming specimens of ancient paintingupon glass, I longed to fix an artist before every window, to bear awaytriumphantly, in a portfolio of elephantine dimensions, a faithful copy ofalmost every thing I saw. In some of the countenances, I fancied I tracedthe pencil of LUCAS CRANACH--and even of HANS HOLBEIN. 

This church has numerous side chapels, and figures of patron-saints. Theentombment of Christ in white marble, (at the end of the chapel of theVirgin, ) is rather singular; inasmuch as the figure of Christ itself isancient, and exceedingly fine in anatomical expression; but the usualsurrounding figures are modern, and proportionably clumsy and inexpressive. I noted one mural monument, to the memory of _Guillaume Tellier_, which wasdated 1484. [86] Few churches have more highly interested me than this atCaudebec. [87] From the church I strolled to the _Place_, where stood thecaffé, by the banks of the Seine. The morning view of this scene perfectlydelighted me. Nothing can be more picturesque. The river cannot be muchless than a mile in width, and it makes a perfect bend in the form of acrescent. On one side, that on which the village stands, are walks andgardens through which peep numerous white villas--and on the other aremeadows, terminating in lofty rising grounds--feathered with coppice-wooddown to the very water's edge. This may be considered, in fact, only aportion of the vast _Forest de Brotonne_, which rises in wooded majesty onthe opposite heights. The spirit and the wealth of our countrymen wouldmake Caudebec one of the most enchanting summer-residences in the world. The population of the town is estimated at about five thousand. 

Judge of my astonishment, when, on going out of doors, I saw the river in astate of extreme agitation: the whole mass of water rising perpendicularly, as it were, and broad rippling waves rolling over each other. It was the_coming in of the tide_.... And within a quarter of an hour it appeared tohave risen upwards of three feet. You may remember that, in our owncountry, the Severn-tides exhibit the same phenomenon; and I have seen theriver at Glocester rise _at once_ to the height of eight or ten feet, throwing up a shower of foam from the gradually narrowing bed of the river, and causing all the craft, great and small, to rise up as if by magic, andto appear upon a level with the meadows. The tide at Caudebec, althoughsimilar in kind, was not so in degree; for it rose gradually yet mostvisibly--and within half an hour, the elevation could not have been lessthan _seven_ or _eight_ feet. 

Having walked for some time on the heights of the town, with which I wasmuch gratified, I returned to my humble auberge, ordered the cabriolet tobe got ready, and demanded the reckoning:--which, considering that I wasnot quite at an hôtel-royale, struck me as being far from moderate. Two oldwomen, of similar features and age, presented themselves as I was gettinginto the carriage: one was the mistress, and the other the fille dechambre. "Mais, Monsieur (observed one of them) n'oubliez pas, je vousprie, la fille-de-chambre--rappellez-vous que vos souliers ont étésupérieurement décrottés. " I took out a franc to remunerate the supposedfille-de-chambre--but was told it was the _mistress_. "N'importe, Monsieur, c'est à ce moment que je suis fille-de-chambre--quand vous serez parti, jeserai la maitresse. " The postilion seemed to enjoy this repartee as much asourselves. 

I was scarcely out of the town half a mile, when I began to ascend. I foundmyself quickly in the middle of those rising grounds which are seen fromthe promenade or _Place du Caffé_, and could not look without extraordinarygratification upon the beautiful character of spring in its advanced state. The larch was even yet picturesque: the hazel and nut trees were perfectlyclothed with foliage, of a tender yet joyous tint: the chestnut wasgorgeously in bloom; the lime and beech were beginning to give abundantpromise of their future luxuriance--while the lowlier tribes of laburnumand box, with their richly clad branches, covered the ground beneathentirely from view. The apple and pear blossoms still continued tovariegate the wide sweep of foliage, and to fill the air with theirdelicious perfume. It might be Switzerland in miniature--or it might not. Only this I know--that it seemed as though one could live embosomed andenchanted in such a wilderness of sweets--reading the _fabliaux_ of the oldNorman bards till the close of human existence!

I found myself on a hard, strait, chalky old road--evidently Roman: and indue time perceived and entered the town of LILLEBONNE. But the sky hadbecome overcast: soft and small rain was descending, and an unusual gloomprevailed ... When I halted, agreeably to my instructions, immediatelybefore the gate of the ancient _Castle_. Venerable indeed is this Normancastle, and extensive are the ruins which have survived. I have a perfectrecollection how it peeped out upon me--through the light leaf of thepoplar, and the pink blossom of the apple. It lies close to the road, onthe left. An old round tower, apparently of the time of William theConqueror, very soon attracts your attention. The stones are large, and theinterstices are also very considerable. It was here, says a yet currentreport, that William assembled the Barons of Normandy, and the invasion ofEngland was determined upon. Such a spot therefore strikes an Englishbeholder with no ordinary emotions. I alighted; sent the cabriolet to theinn, and wished both postilion and horses to get their dinners withoutdelay. For myself, I had resolved to reserve my appetite till I reached_Bolbec_; and there was food enough before me of a different description, to exercise my intellectual digestion for at least the next hour. Knockingat the massive portals, I readily obtained admittance. 

The area, entirely a grass-plat, was occupied by several cows. In front, were evidently the ruins of a large chapel or church--perhaps of the XIVthcentury. The outer face of the walls went deeply and perpendicularly downto the bottom of a dry fosse; and the right angle portion of the buildingwas covered with garden ground, where the owner showed us some peas whichhe boasted he should have at his table within five days. I own I thought hewas very likely to carry his boast into execution; for finer vegetables, ora finer bed of earth, I had scarcely ever beheld. How things, my dearfriend, are changed from their original character and destination! "But theold round tower, " say you!--To "the old round tower" then let us go. Thestair-case is narrow, dark, and decayed. I reached the first floor, orcircular room, and noticed the construction of the window seats--all ofrough, solid, and massive stone. I ascended to the second floor; which, ifI remember rightly, was strewn with a portion of the third floor--that hadfallen in from sheer decay. Great must have been the crash--as thefragments were huge, and widely scattered. On gaining a firm footing uponthe outer wall; through a loop-hole window, I gazed around with equalwonder and delight. The wall of this castle could not be less than ten feetin thickness. A young woman, the shepherdess of the spot, attended asguide. 

"What is that irregular rude mound, or wall of earth, in the centre ofwhich children are playing?" "It is the _old Roman Theatre_, Sir. " Iimmediately called to mind M. Le Prevost's instructions--and if I couldhave borrowed the wings of a spirit, I should have instantly alighted uponthe spot--but it was situated without the precincts of the old castle andits appurtenances, and a mortal leap would have been attended with a mortalresult. "Have you many English who visit this spot?" said I to myguide. --"Scarcely _any_, Sir--it is a frightful place--full of desolationand sadness.. " replied she. Again I gazed around, and in the distance, through an aperture in the orchard trees, saw the little fishing village of_Quillebeuf_, [88] quite buried, as it were, in the waters of the Seine. Anarm of the river meanders towards Lillebonne. Having gratified mypicturesque and antiquarian propensities, from this elevated situation, Iretrod, with more difficulty than toil, my steps down the stair-case. Asecond stroll about the area, and along the skirts of the wall, wassufficient to convince me only--how slight and imperfect had been mysurvey!

On quitting the portal through which I entered, and bidding adieu to myShepherdess and guide, I immediately hastened towards the RomanTheatre. [89] The town of Lillebonne has a very picturesque appearance fromthe old mound, or raised terrace, along the outer walls of the castle. Infive minutes I mingled with the school boys who were amusing themselveswithin the ruins of all that is left of this probably once vast andmagnificent old theatre. It is only by clearing away a great quantity ofearth, with which these ruins are covered, that you can correctly ascertaintheir character and state of preservation. M. Le Prevost bade me remarkthat the walls had much swerved from their original perpendicularity, --andthat there was much irregularity in the laying of the bricks among thestones. But time, design, and accident, have each in turn (in allprobability) so contributed to decompose, deface, and alter the originalaspect of the building, that there is no forming a correct conjecture as toits ancient form. Earth, grass, trees, flowers, and weeds, have takenalmost entire possession of some low and massive outer walls; so that theimagination has full play to supply all deficiencies which appear to theeye. 

From the whole of this interesting spot I retreated--with mixed sensationsof melancholy and surprise--to the little auberge of the _Three Moors_, inthe centre of the town. It had begun to rain smartly as we took shelter inthe kitchen; where, for the first time since leaving England, I saw adisplay of utensils which might have vied with our own, or even with aDutch interior, for neatness and order of disposition. Some of the dishesmight have been as ancient as--not the old round Tower--but as the lastEnglish Duke of Normandy who might have banquetted there. The whole was inhigh polish and full display. On my complimenting the good _Aubergiste_upon so creditable a sight, she laughed, and replied briskly--"Ce n'estrien, ceci: Pentecôte est tout près, et donc vous verrez, Monsieur!"--Itshould seem that Whitsuntide was the season for a general householdpurification. Some of her furniture had once belonged to the Castle: butshe had bought it, in the scramble which took place at the dispersion anddestruction of the movables there, during the Revolution. I recommend alltravellers to take a lunch, and enjoy a bottle of vin ordinaire, at _LesTrois-Nègres. _ I was obliged to summon up all my stock of knowledge inpolite phraseology, in order to decline a plate of soup. "It was deliciousabove every thing"--"but I had postponed taking dinner till we got toBolbec. " "Bon--vous y trouverez un hôtel superbe. " The French are easilypleased; and civility is so cheap and current a coin abroad, that I wishour countrymen would make use of it a little more frequently than theyappear to do. I started about two for Bolbec. 

The rain continued during the whole of my route thither; but it did notprevent me from witnessing a land of plenty and of picturesque beauty onall sides. Indeed it is scarcely possible to conceive a more rich andluxuriant state of culture. To the left, about half a league fromLillebonne, I passed the domain of a once wealthy, and extremely extensiveabbey. They call it the _Abbey of Valasse. _ A long rambling bare stonewall, and portions of a deserted ruin, kept in sight for full half anEnglish mile. The immediate approach to BOLBEC is that of the entrance to amodern and flourishing trading town, which seems to be beginning to recoverfrom the effects of the Revolution. After Rouen, and even Caudebec, it hasa stiff modernized air. I drove to the principal inn, opposite the church, and bespoke dinner and a bed. The church is perfectly, modern, and equallyheavy and large. Crowds of people were issuing from _Vespers_, when, ascending a flight of steps, (for it is built on ground considerably abovethe ground-floor of the inn) I resolved to wait for the final departure ofthe congregation, and to take a leisurely survey of the interior, whiledinner was getting ready. 

The sexton was a perfect character in his way; old, shrewd, communicative, and civil. There were several confessionals. "What--you confess here prettymuch?" "Yes, Sir; but chiefly females, and among them many widows. " I hadsaid nothing to provoke this ungallant reply. "In respect to the_sacrament_, what is the proportion between the communicants, as to sex?""Sir, there are one hundred women to twelve men. " I wish I could say thatthis disproportion were confined to _France_. 

Quitting this heavy and ugly, but large and commodious fabric, I sought theinn and dinner. The cook was in every respect a learned professor in hisart, and the produce of his skill was equally excellent and acceptable. Ihad scarcely finished my repast, and the _Gruyere_ cheese and nuts yetlingered upon the table, when the soft sounds of an organ, accompanied by ayouthful voice, saluted my ears in a very pleasing manner. "C'est LEPAUVRE PETIT SAVOYARD, Monsieur"--exclaimed the waiter--"Vous allezentendre un air touchant! Ah, le pauvre petit!"--"Comment ça?" "Monsieur, il n'a ni père ni mère; mais pour le chant--oh Dieu, il n'y a personne quichante comme le pauvre petit Savoyard!" I was well disposed to hear thesong, and to admit the truth of the waiter's observation. The littleitinerant stopped opposite the door, and sung the following air:--

 _Bon jour, Bon soir_. 

 Je peindrai sans détour Tout l'emploi de ma vie: C'est de dire _bon jour_ Et _bon soir_ tour-à-tour. _Bon Jour_ à mon amie, Lorsque je vais la voir. Mais au fat qui m'ennuie, _Bon soir_. 

 _Bon jour_ franc troubadour, Qui chantez la bombance; La paix et les beaux jours; Bacchus et les amours. Qu'un rimeur en démence Vienne avec vous s'asseoir, Pour chanter la Romance, _Bon soir_. 

 _Bon jour_, mon cher voisin, Chez vous la soif m'entraîne: _Bonjour_--si votre vin Est de Beaune ou du Rhin; Mon gosier va sans peine Lui servir d'entonnoir; Mais s'il est de Surêne, _Bon soir_. 

I know not how it was, but had the "petit Savoyard" possessed thecultivated voice of a chorister, I could not have listened to his noteswith half the satisfaction with which I dwelt upon his history, as statedby the waiter. He had no sooner concluded and made his bow, than I boughtthe slender volume from which his songs had been chanted, and had a longgossip with him. He slung his organ upon his back, and "ever and anon"touching his hat, expressed his thankfulness, as much for the interest Ihad taken in his welfare, as for the trifling piece of silver which I sliptinto his hand at parting. Meanwhile all the benches, placed on the outsidesof the houses, were occupied--chiefly by females--to witness, it shouldseem, so novel and interesting a sight as an Englishman holding familiardiscourse with a poor wandering Savoyard! My friend the sexton was amongthe spectators, and from his voice and action, appeared especiallyinterested. "Que le bon Dieu vous bénisse!" exclaimed the Savoyard, as Ibade him farewell. On pursuing my route for a stroll upon the heights nearthe town, I had occasion to pass these benches of spectators. The women, almost without any exception, inclined their heads by way of a gracioussalute; and Monsieur _le Sacristain_ pulled off his enormous cock'd hatwith the consequence of a drum-major. He appeared not to have forgotten thedonation which he had received in the church. Continuing my pursuit, Igained an elevated situation: whence, looking down upon the spot where Ihad left the Savoyard, I observed him surrounded by the females--each andevery one of them apparently convulsed with laughter! Even the littlemusician appeared to have forgotten his "orphan state. "

The environs of _Bolbec_, especially in the upper part, are sufficientlypicturesque. At least they are sufficiently fruitful: orchards, corn andpasture land--intermixed with meadows, upon which cotton was spread forbleaching--produced altogether a very interesting effect. The littlehanging gardens, attached to labourer's huts, contributed to the beauty ofthe scene. A warm crimson sun-set seemed to envelope the coppice wood in aflame of gold. The road was yet reeking with moisture--and I retraced mysteps, through devious and slippery paths, to the hôtel. Evening had setin: the sound of the Savoyard's voice was no longer heard: I ordered teaand candles, and added considerably to my journal before I went to bed. Irose at five; and before six the horses were harnessed to the cabriolet. Having obtained the necessary instructions for reaching _Tancarville_, (theancient and proud seat of the MONTMORENCIS) I paid my reckoning, and leftBolbec. As I ascended a long and rather steep hill, and, looking to theright and left, saw every thing in a state of verdure and promise, I didall I could to persuade myself that the journey would be agreeable, andthat the castle of Montmorenci could not fail to command admiration. I wasnow in the high and broad "_roúte royale_" to Havre le Grace; but hadscarcely been a league upon it, when, looking at my instructions, we struckout of the high road, to the left, and followed a private one through flatand uninteresting arable land. I cannot tell how many turns were taken, orhow many pretty little villages were passed--till, after a long and gradualascent, we came upon a height, flanked the greater part by coppice wood, through one portion of which--purposely kept open for the view--was seen ata distance a marvellously fine group of perpendicular rocks (whose grey andbattered sides were lighted up with a pink colour from the morning sun) inthe middle, as it were, of the _Seine_--which now really assumed anocean-like appearance. In fact, these rocks were at a considerabledistance, and appeared to be in the broadest part of the embouchure of thatriver. I halted the cabriolet; and gazed with unfeigned delight on thistruly magnificent and fascinating scene!... For the larks were now mountingall around, and their notes, added to those of the "songsters of thegrove, " produced an effect which I even preferred to that from the organand voice of the "pauvre petit Savoyard. " The postboy partook of myrapture. "Voilà, Monsieur, des rochers terriblement perpendiculiers--eh, quelle belle vue de la rivière, et du paysage!"

Leaving this brilliant picture, we turned rather to the left, and thenfound our descent proportionably gradual with the ascent. The Seine was nowright before us, as hasty glimpses of it, through partial vistos, hadenabled us to ascertain. Still _Tancarville_ was deemed a terrible way off. First we were to go up, and then we were to go down--now to turn to theright, and afterwards to the left--a sort of [Greek: polla d'anantakatanta] route--when a prepossessing young paysanne told the postilion, that, after passing through such a wood, we should reach an avenue, fromthe further end of which the castle of _Montmorenci_ would be visible.. "une petite lieue de distance. " Every thing is "une petite lieue!" It isthe answer to every question relating to distance. Though the league bedouble a German one, still it is "une petite!" Here however the paysannehappened to be right. We passed through the wood, gained the avenue, andfrom the further end saw--even yet towering in imposing magnitude--thefar-famed _Chateau de Montmorenci_. It might be a small league off. Igained spirits and even strength at the sight: told the postilion to mendhis pace--of which he gave immediate and satisfactory demonstration, whilethe echoes of his whip resounded along the avenue. A closer road nowreceived us. Knolls of grass interwoven with moss, on the summits of whichthe beech and lime threw up their sturdy stems, now enclosed the road, which began to widen and to improve in condition. At length, turning acorner, a group of country people appeared--"Est-ce ici la route deTancarville?"--"Tancarville est tout près: c'est là, où on voit la fuméedes cheminées. " Joyful intelligence! The post-boy increased his speed: Thewheels seemed to move with a readier play: and in one minute and a half Iwas upon the beach of the river Seine, and alighted at the door of the onlyauberge in the village. 

I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in Rembrandt's pictures:and especially of those of his _old_ characters. I wish you could have seenthe old woman, of the name of _Bucan_, who came out of this same auberge toreceive us. She had a sharp, quick, constantly moving black eye; keenfeatures, projecting from a surface of flesh of a subdued mahogany tint;about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks, were all thoseharmonizing wrinkles which become old age--_upon canvas_--while, below herchin, communicating with a small and shrunken neck, was that sort ofconcavity, or dewlap, which painters delight to express with a minutenessof touch, and mellowness of tint, that contribute largely to picturesqueeffect! This good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of spiritsand of action. It should seem that we were the first Englishmen who hadvisited her solitude this year. Her husband approached, but she soonordered him "to the right about"--to prepare fuel, coffee, and eggs. I waspromised the best breakfast that could be got in Normandy, in twentyminutes. The inn being sufficiently miserable, I was anxious for a ramble. The tide was now coming up, as at Caudebec; but the sweep and breadth ofthe river being, upon a considerably larger scale, its increase was not yetso obvious--although I am quite sure that all the flats, which I saw on myarrival as a bed of mud, were, within a quarter of an hour, wholly coveredwith the tide: and, looking up to the right, I perceived the perpendicularwalls of _Montmorenci Castle_ to be washed by the refluent wave. It was asort of ocean in miniature before me. A few miserable fishing boats weremoored upon the beach; while a small number of ill-clad and stragglingvillagers lingered about the same spot, and seemed to look upon the postboyand myself as beings dropt from the sky!

On ascending a considerable elevation, I had the gratification of viewing_Quillebeuf_ a little more nearly. It was almost immediately opposite:while, to the right, contemplating the wide sweep of the river towards itsembouchure, I fancied that I could see _Havre_. The group of rocks, whichhad so charmed us on our journey, now assumed a different character. Ondescending, I could discover, although at a considerable distance, the oldwoman standing at the door of the auberge--apparently straining her eyes tocatch a glimpse of us; and she was almost disposed to scold for having puther reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous a trial. The woodwas blazing, and the room was almost filled by smoke--but a prolonged fast, and a stage of sixteen or eighteen miles, in a keen morning air, made Mr. Lewis and myself only think of allaying our hunger. In every public house, however mean, you see the white metal fork, and the napkin covering theplate. A dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee pot and cups of perfectlyBrobdignagdian dimensions, with tolerable bread and indifferent butter, formed the _materiél_ of our breakfast. The postboy, having stabled andrefreshed his horses, was regaling himself in the kitchen--but-how do youthink he was regaling himself?--Truly, in stretching himself upon a bench, and reading, as old Ascham expresses it, "a merry tale in Boccace. " Inother words, he was reading a French version of the Decameron of thatcelebrated author. Indeed, I had already received sufficient proof of thegeneral propensity of the common people to _read_--whether good or badbooks ... But let us hope and believe the former. I left the bibliomaniacalpostboy to his Boccaccio, and prepared to visit the CASTLE... The onceproud and yet commanding residence of the family of MONTMORENCI. 

I ascended--with fresh energies imparted from my breakfast. The day grewsoft, and bright, and exhilarating ... But alas! for the changes andchances of every thing in this transitory world. Where was the warder? Hehad ceased to blow his horn for many a long year. Where was the harp of theminstrel? It had perished two centuries ago, with the hand that had struckits chords. Where was the attendant guard?--or pursuivants--or men at arms?They had been swept from human existence, like the leaves of the old limesand beech trees by which the lower part of the building was surrounded. Themoat was dry; the rampart was a ruin:--the rank grass grew within thearea... Nor can I tell you how many relics of halls, banqueting rooms, andbed-rooms, with all the magnificent appurtenances of old castellatedarchitecture, struck the eager eye with mixed melancholy and surprise! Thesingular half-circular, and half square, corner towers, hanging over theever-restless wave, interested me exceedingly. The guide shewed me wherethe prisoners used to be kept--in a dungeon, apparently impervious to everyglimmer of day-light, and every breath of air. I cannot pretend to say atwhat period even the oldest part of the Castle of Montmorenci was built:but I saw nothing that seemed to be more ancient than the latter end of thefifteenth century. [90] Perhaps the greater portion may be of the beginningof the sixteenth; but, amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not help admiringthe painted borders, chiefly of a red colour, which run along the upperpart of the walls, or wainscoats--giving indication not only of a good, butof a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of ornament was to beseen in some parts of the eastern end of the Abbey of Jumieges? _Here_, indeed, they afforded evidence--an evidence, mingled with melancholysensations on reflection--of the probable state of magnificence which oncereigned throughout the castle. Between the corner towers, upon that partwhich runs immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble terrace, now converted into garden ground--which commands an immediate and extensiveview of the embouchure of the river. It is the property of a speculator, residing at Havre. 

The cabriolet meeting me at the bottom of the mound upon which the castleis built, (having paid the reckoning before I left the inn), I had nothingto do but to step in, and push forward for _Havre_. Retracing the roadthrough which we came, we darted into the _Route Royale_, and got upon oneof the noblest high roads in France. Between _Tancarville_ and _Havre_ lie_Hocher_ and _Harfleur_; each almost at the water's edge. I regretted Icould not see the former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, tothe right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, countryvillas or modern chateaux. The immediate run down to Harfleur isexceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the town, theexquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon me. Few places, Ibelieve, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle agesthan Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder; and, before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies HAVRE. Every thing givesindication of commerce and prosperity as you gain upon the town. The housesincrease in number and respectability of appearance--"Voyez-vous là, Monsieur, à droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?--(exclaimed thecharioteer)--"C'est la où demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes: ma foi, ilsont un joli gout. " The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed thesagacity of the postilion. They are gloriously situated--facing the ocean;while the surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species. Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in hisdescription of such trout-streams as were those before us. 

But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds of vessels are seen in thecommodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of theglobe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a scene of bustle, ofbusiness, and variety; and perfectly English. What a contrast to the gloomysolitude of Montmorenci! The outer and inner gates are passed. _Diligences_issue from every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns, from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on allsides.... Driving up the high street, we approached the hôtel of the _Aigled'Or, _[91] kept by Justin, and considered to be the best. We were just intime for the table d'hôte, and to bespeak excellent beds. Travellers werecontinually arriving and departing. What life and animation!... We sat downupwards of forty to dinner: and a good dinner it was. Afterwards, I settledfor the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu!--nor can I suppress myfeelings in saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times morethan I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion. 

[85] The nave was begun in 1416. LICQUET. 

[86] Corrected by Mons. Licquet: with thanks from the Author. It was, before, 1184. 

[87] Lieutenant Hall has well described it. I did not see his description till more than a twelvemonth after my own had been written. A part may be worth extracting.... "The principal object of attraction is the CHURCH, the gothic spire of which is encircled by fillets of roses, beautifully carved in stone, and continued to the very summit of the steeple. The principal portal too is sculptured with no less richness and delicacy than that of St. Maclou at Rouen. Its interior length is about 250 feet by 72 of width. The central aisle [nave] is flanked on either side by ten massive circular columns, the capitals of which represent vine leaves and other decorations, more fanciful, and not less rich, than the Corinthian acanthus.... In one of the chapels there is a rude monumental effigy of the original architect of this church. It consists of a small skeleton, drawn in black lines, against a tablet in the wall: a mason's level and trowel, with the plan of a building, are beside it, and an inscription in gothic characters, relating that the architect endowed the church he had built with certain lands, and died Anno 1484. " _Travels in France_, p. 47, 1819, 8vo. I take this to be GUILLAUME TELLIER--mentioned above: but in regard to the lands with which Tellier endowed the church, the inscription says nothing. LICQUET. 

[88] Small as may be this village, and insignificant as may be its aspect, it is one of the most important places, with respect to navigation, in the whole course of the river Seine. Seven years ago there were not fewer than _four-score_ pilots settled here, by order of government, for the purpose of guarding against accidents which arise from a want of knowledge of the navigation of the river. In time of peace this number would necessarily be increased. In the year 1789 there were upwards of 250 English vessels which passed it--averaging, in the whole, 19, 000 tons. It is from _Quillebeuf_ to _Havre_ that the accidents arise. The author of a pompous, but very instructive memoir, "_sur la Topographie et la Statistique de la Ville de Quillebeuf et de l'embouchure de la Seine, ayant pour objet-principal la navigation et la pêché_, " (published in the Transactions of the Rouen Society for the year 1812, and from which the foregoing information has been obtained) mentions three or four _wrecks_ which have taken place in the immediate vicinity of Quillebeuf: and it should seem that a _calm_ is, of all things, the most fatal. The currents are strong, and the vessel is left to the mercy of the tides in consequence. There are also rocks and sand banks in abundance. Among the wrecks, was one, in which a young girl of eighteen years of age fell a victim to the ignorance of the pilot. The vessel made a false tack between _Hode_ and _Tancarville_, and running upon a bank, was upset in an instant. An English vessel once shared the same calamity. A thick fog suddenly came on, when the sloop ran upon a bank near the _Nez de Tancarville_, and the crew had just time to throw themselves into the boat and escape destruction. The next morning, so sudden and so decisive was the change wrought by the sand and current, that, of the sloop, there remained, at ebb-tide, only ten feet of her mast visible! It appears that the _Quillebois_, owing to their detached situation, and their peculiar occupations, speak a very barbarous French. They have a sort of sing-song method of pronunciation; and the _g_ and _j_ are strangely perverted by them. Consult the memoir here referred to; which occupies forty octavo pages: and which forms a sequel to a previous communication (in 1810) "upon the Topography and Medical properties of Quillebeuf and its adjacent parts. " The author is M. Boismare. His exordium is a specimen of the very worst possible taste in composition. One would suppose it to be a prelude to an account of the discovery of another America!

[89] ["The Roman Circus (says M. Licquet) is now departmental property. Many excavations have already taken place under the directions of Mons. Le Baron de Vanssay, the present Prefect of the Department. The most happy results may be anticipated. It was in a neighbouring property that an ANTIQUE BRONZE GILT STATUE, of the size of life, was lately found, " vol. I. 194. Of this statue, Mr. Samuel Woodburn, (with that spirit of liberality and love of art which have uniformly characterised his purchases) became the Owner. The sum advanced for it was very considerable; but, in one sense, Mr. W. May be said to have stood as the Representative of his country; for the French Government declining to give the Proprietor the sum which he asked, Mr. Woodburn purchased it--solely with the view of depositing it, on the same terms of purchase, in a NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART, of which the bequest of Mr. Payne Knight's ancient bronzes and coins, and the purchase of Mr. Angerstein's pictures, might be supposed to lay the foundation. 

 This statue was accordingly brought over to England, and freely exhibited to the curious admirers of ancient art. It is the figure of an APOLLO--the left arm, extended to hold the lyre, being mutilated. A portion of the limbs is also mutilated; but the torso, head and legs, are entire: and are, of their kind, of the highest class of art. Overtures were made for its purchase by government. The Trustees of the British Museum were unanimous both in their admiration and recommendation of it: it was indeed "strongly recommended" by them to the Treasury. Several months however elapsed before an answer could be obtained; and that answer, when it _did_ come, was returned in THE NEGATIVE. The disappointment of reasonably indulged hopes of success, was the least thing felt by its owner. It was the necessity of transporting it, in consequence, to enrich a _rival capital_--which, were its means equal to its wishes and good taste, it must be confessed, makes us frequently blush for the comparative want of energy and liberality, at home, in matters relating to ANCIENT ART. ]

[90] Mr. Cotman has a view of the gateway of Tancarville, or Montmorenci Castle. 

[91] I am not sure whether this inn be called the _Armes de France_, or as above. 

LETTER XI

HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLEUR. JOURNEY TO CAEN. 

_Caen, May_, 1818. 

Well, my friend!... I have at length visited the interior of the Abbey ofSt. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR and ofMATHILDA his wife. But as you dearly love the gossip of a travellingjournal, I shall take up the thread of my narrative from the place in whichI last addressed you:--particularly as our route hither was marked by somecircumstances worthy of recital. First, however, for _Havre_. 

I staid there only long enough to express my regret that the time of myresidence could not be extended. It happened to be a fine afternoon, and Itook a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts. [92] The town was fullof animation--whether relating to business or to pleasure. For the former, you must visit the quays; for the latter, you must promenade the highstreet, and more especially the _Boulevards_, towards the heights. The sunshone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling, andbawling human creatures.. Who were in constant locomotion in this latterplace. 

What a difference between the respective appearances of the quays of Dieppeand Havre? Although even _here_ things would assume a rubbishing andlittered aspect compared with the quays at _Liverpool_ or at _Hull_, yet itmust be admitted, for the credit of Gallico-Norman commerce, that the quaysof Havre make a very respectable appearance. You see men fiddling, dancing, sleeping, sitting, and of course talking _à pleine gorge_, in groupswithout end--but no drunkenness!.. Not even an English oath saluted my ear. The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre. I saw the arrival of oneof these packets; and was cruel enough to contrast the animated and elasticspirits of a host of French _laqnais de place_, tradespeople, &c. --attacking the passengers with cards of their address--with the feeblemovements and dejected countenances of the objects of their attack. 

From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts, which are flanked by broadditches--of course plentifully supplied with water; and passing over thedrawbridge, by which all carriages enter the town--and which absolutelytrembles as if about to sink beneath you, as the _diligence_ rolls overit. --I made for the boulevards and tea-gardens; to which, business beingwell nigh over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hundreds and bythousands. A fine afternoon throws every thing into "good keeping"--as theartists say. The trees, and meadows, and upper lands, were not only brightwith the sun-beam, but the human countenance was lighted up with gladness. The occupations partook of this joyful character. Accordingly there wasdancing and singing on all sides; a little beyond, appeared to sit a groupof philosophers, or politicians, upon a fantastically cut seat, beneathlaburnums streaming with gold; while, still further, gradually becominginvisible from the foliage and winding path, strolled pairs in more gentlediscourse! Meanwhile the whoop and halloo of school-boys, in rapid andceaseless evolutions, resounded through the air, and heightened thegratification of the scene.... 

 And young and old came out to play Upon a sun-shine holiday. 

Gaining a considerable ascent, I observed knolls of rich verdure, with finespreading trees, and elegant mansions, to be in the foreground--in themiddle-ground, stood the town of Havre:--in the distance, rolled and roaredthe expansive ocean! The sun was visibly going to rest; but his departingbeams yet sparkled upon the more prominent points of the picture. There wasno time for finishing the subject. After a stroll of nearly a couple ofhours, on this interesting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge, and prepared for objects of _still_ life; in other words, for theexamination of what might be curious and profitable in the shape of a_boke_. 

The lamps were lighted when I commenced my _Bibliomaniacal Voyage_ ofdiscovery among the BOOKSELLERS. But what poverty of materials, for a maneducated in the schools of Fust and Caxton! To every question, about rareor old books, I was told that I should have been on the Continent when theallies first got possession of Paris. In fact, I had not a single_trouvaille_. 

The packet was to sail by nine the next morning, precisely. For a wonder, (or rather no wonder at all, considering what had occurred during the lasttwenty-four hours) I had an excellent night's rest, and was prepared forbreakfast by eight. Having breakfasted, I accompanied my luggage to theinner harbour, and observed the _Honfleur_ packet swarming with passengers, and crammed with every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks, trunks, cordage, and earthenware. We went on board, and took our stationsnear the helm; and after experiencing a good deal of _uncomfortable_heaving of the ocean, got clear from the mouth of the harbour, and stoodout to sea. The tide was running briskly and strongly into the harbour. Wewere in truth closely stowed; and as these packets are built with flattishbottoms, and low sides, a rough sea would not fail to give to a crew, thusexposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily the wind began tosubside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of undisturbed serenity. Ourcrew was a motley one; but among them, an Abbess, with a visage ofparchment-like rigidity, and with her broad streaming bands, seemed toexperience particular distress. She was surrounded by some hale, heartymarket women, whose robust forms, and copper-tinted countenances, formed astriking contrast to her own. A little beyond was an old officer or two, with cocked hats of the usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbesswas cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the mostpiteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below. 

Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisureto survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and looking towards thecourse of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I discovered_Harfleur_ and _Hocher_ nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, thelittle fishing town of _Quillebeuf_, apparently embedded in the water. Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns[93]--orwhatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the environs makeamends for the squalidness of the town. A few years of peace and plentywould work wonders even in the improvements of these environs. Perhaps nosituation is more favourable for the luxury of a summer retirement. [94] Ipaid only eight sous for my passage; and having no passport to be _viséd_(which indeed was the case at Havre, ) we selected a stout lad or two, fromthe crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the innfrom which the diligence sets off for CAEN. It surprised us to see withwhat alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in theirtrucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, andmiserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded. Iwas fortunate to be in time to secure my place in the Diligence. The horseswere in the very act of being put to, as I paid my reckoning beforehand. 

Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two well-dressed, andapparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their places at the same time. Itis not always that, at first sight, Englishmen associate so quickly, andapparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They werethe Messrs. D*** of _L_**** _Hall_ in Yorkshire: the elder brother anOxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We wereall bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition. 

We proceeded at a good sharp pace; and as we ascended the very high hill onthe direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each side, and upon anoble breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to enjoy the trulymagnificent view of the Seine--with glimpses of _Harfleur_ and _Havre_ onthe opposite coast. The cessation of the rain, and the quick movement ofthe vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commodious manner. Theground however seemed saturated, and the leaves glistened with theincumbent moisture. There was a sort of pungent freshness of scentabroad--and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most luxuriantappearance to the landscape. Nature indeed seemed to have fructified everything in a manner at once spontaneous and perfect. The face of the countryis pasture-land throughout; that is to say, there are comparatively feworchards and little arable. I was told to pay attention to the cattle, forthat the farmers prided themselves on their property of this kind. They maypride themselves--if they please: but their pride is not of a lofty cast ofcharacter. I have been in Lincolnshire, Herefordshire, andGloucestershire--and have seen and enjoyed, in these counties, groups ofcattle which appeared calculated for the land and the table of giants, compared with the Lilliputian objects, of the bucoline species, which werestraying, in thin flocks, through the luxuriant pastures of Normandy. Thattriumphant and immutable maxim of "small bone and large carcase" seems, alas! to be unknown in these regions. 

However, on we rode--and gazed on all sides. At length we reached _PontL'Eveque_, a pretty long stage; where we dined (says my journal) upon roastfowl, asparagus, trout, and an excellent omelette, with two good bottles ofvin ordinaire--which latter, for four Englishmen, was commendably moderate. During dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier torrents--the guttersfoamed, and the ground smoked with the unceasing fall of the water. In themidst of this aquatic storm, we toasted Old England right merrily andcordially; and the conducteur, seeing us in good humour, told us that "weneed not hurry, for that he preferred a dry journey to a wet one. " Wereadily assented to this position; but within half an hour, the weatherclearing, we remounted: and by four o'clock, we all got inside--andpolitics, religion, literature, and the fine arts, kept us in constantdiscourse and good humour as we rolled on for many a league. All the way to_Troarn_ (the last stage on this side of Caen) the country presents a trulylovely picture of pasture land. There are occasionally some wooded heights, in which English wealth and English taste would have raised villas of theprettiest forms, and with most commanding views. Yet there is nothing to bementioned in the same breath with the country about Rodwell inGlocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant foliage asare those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut _Wynkyn deWorde_:[95] but creeping rivulets, rich coppice wood, avenues of elms andlimes, and meadows begemmed with butter-cups--these are the characteristicsof the country through which we were passing. It is in vain however youlook for neat villas or consequential farm houses: and as rarely do you seegroups of villagers reposing, or in action. A dearth of population gives toFrench landscape a melancholy and solitary cast of character. It is incities that you must look for human beings--and _for_ cities the Frenchseem to have been created. 

It was at _Troarn_, I think, or at some halting place beyond, that ourpassports were demanded, and the examination of our trunks solicited. Wesurrendered our keys most willingly. The gentlemen, with their cocked hatsand blue jackets--having a belt from which a sword was suspended--consultedtogether for a minute only--returned our keys--and telling us that matterswould be thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us notrouble. We were of course not sorry at this determination--and the Messrs. D---and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy beingsecured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curiosity fora view of the steeples of CAEN. Unluckily the sun had set, and the horizonhad become gloomy, when we first discovered the spires of _St. Stephen'sAbbey_--the principal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nineo'clock; and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a veryindistinct view of the other churches--but, to my eye, as seen in alengthened view, and through a deceitful atmosphere, Caen had theappearance of OXFORD on a diminutive scale. The town itself, like ourfamous University, is built in a slanting direction; though the surroundingcountry is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it, all thepopulation seemed collected to witness our arrival. From solitude weplunged at once into tumult, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the _Hoteld'Espagne--_a large, but black and begrimed mansion. Here our luggage wastaken down; and here we were assailed by garçons de place, with cards intheir hands, intreating us to put up at their respective hotels. We hadsomehow got a recommendation to the _Hotel Royale, Place Royale_, and sucha union of _royal_ adjuncts was irresistible. Accordingly, we resolved uponmoving thither. In a trice our trunks were placed upon barrows: and wemarched behind, "in double quick time, " in order to secure our property. The town appeared to improve as we made our different turnings, and gainedupon our hotel. "Le voilà, Messieurs"--exclaimed our guides andbaggage-conductors--as we got into a goodly square, and saw a fair andcomely mansion in front. The rush of landlord, waiting maids, and garçonsde place, encountered us as we entered. "Messieurs, je vous salue, "--said ahuge, ungracious looking figure:--which said figure was nothing less thanthe master of the hotel--Mons. Lagouelle. We were shown into a small roomon the ground floor, to the right--and ordered tea; but had scarcely begunto enjoy the crackling blaze of a plentiful wood fire, when the sameungracious figure took his seat by the side of us ... To tell us "all aboutTHE DUEL. "

I had heard (from an English gentleman in the packet boat from Havre toHonfleur) something respecting this most extraordinary duel between a youngEnglishman and a young Frenchman: but as I mean to reserve my _Caen budget_for a distinct dispatch, and as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours inthis place, I must bid you adieu; only adding that I dreamt, last night, about some English antiquaries trying to bend the bow of William theConqueror!--Can this be surprising? Again farewell. 

[92] Evelyn, who visited Havre in 1644, when the Duke de Richlieu was governor, describes the citadel as "strong and regular, well stored with artillery, &c. The works furnished with faire brass canon, having a motto, "_Ratio ultima Regum_. " The haven is very spacious. " _Life and Writings of John Evelyn_, edit. 1818, vol. I. P. 51. Havre seems always to have been a place of note and distinction in more senses than one. In Zeiller's _Topographia Galliae, _ (vol. Iii. ) there is a view of it, about the period in which Evelyn saw it, by Jacques Gomboust, Ingénieur du Roy, from which it appears to have been a very considerable place. Forty-two principal buildings and places are referred to in the directions; and among them we observe the BOULEVARDS DE RICHELIEU. 

[93] It was so in Evelyn's time: in 1644, "It is a poore fisher towne (says he) remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts. " _Life and Writings of J. Evelyn_; 1818, 4to. Vol. I. P. 51. 

[94] [It is near a chapel, on one of the heights of this town, that Mr. Washington Irving fixes one of his most exquisitely drawn characters, ANNETTE DELABRE, as absorbed in meditation and prayer respecting the fate of her lover; and I have a distinct recollection of a beautiful piece of composition, by one of our most celebrated artists, in which the _Heights of Honfleur_, with women kneeling before a crucifix in the foreground, formed a most beautiful composition. The name of the artist (was it the younger Mr. Chalon?) I have forgotten. ]

[95] [My translator says, "un Wynkyn de Worde non coupé:" Qu. Would not the _Debure_ Vocabulary have said "non rogné?"]

LETTER XII. 

CAEN. SOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN. CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE DE DARNETAL. ABBÉ DE LA SAINTE TRINITÉ. OTHERPUBLIC EDIFICES. 

I have now resided upwards of a week at Lagouelle's, the _Hotel Royale_, and can tell you something of the place and of the inhabitants of CAEN. Caen however is still-life after Rouen: but it has been, and yet is, a townexceedingly well-deserving the attention of the lounging traveller and ofthe curious antiquary. Its ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, butless vast and splendid, than those of Rouen; while the streets and thehouses are much more wide and comfortable. This place is the capital of thedepartment of CALVADOS, or of LOWER NORMANDY: and its population isestimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public library, a school ofart, a college, mayoralty, and all the adjuncts of a corporate society. [96]But I must first give you something in the shape of political economyintelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of _Bayeux, Vire, Falaise, Lisieux, Pont L'Eveque_, is the country of pasturage and of cattle. It isalso fertile in the apple and pear; and although at _Argences_ there havebeen vineyards from time immemorial, yet the produce of the grape, in thecharacter of _wine_, [97] is of a very secondary description. There arebeautiful and most abundant market gardens about Caen; and for the lastseventy years they have possessed a garden for the growth and cultivationof foreign plants and trees. It is said that more than nine hundred speciesof plants and trees are to be found in the department of CALVADOS, of whichsome (but I know not how many or how few) are considered as indigenous. Offorests and woods, the number is comparatively small; and upon that limitednumber great injuries were inflicted by the Revolution. In thearrondissement of Caen itself, there are only 344 _hectares_. [98] The truthis, that in the immediate neighbourhood of populous towns, the French haveno idea of PLANTING. They suffer plain after plain, and hill after hill, tobe denuded of trees, and make no provision for the supply of those who areto come after them. Thus, not only a great portion of the country aboutRouen--(especially in the direction of the road leading to Caen--) isgradually left desolate and barren, but even here, as you approach thetown, there is a dreary flatness of country, unrefreshed by the verdure offoliage: whereas the soil, kind and productive by nature, requires only theslightest attention of man to repay him a hundred fold. What they will dosome fifty years hence for _fuel_, is quite inconceivable. It is true thatthe river Orne, by means of the tide, and of its proximity to the sea, brings up vessels of even 200 tons burthen, in which they may stow plentyof wood; but still, the expenses of carriage, and duties of a variety ofdescription--together with the _dependence_ of the town upon suchaccidental supply--would render the article of fuel a most expensiveconcern. It is also true that they pretend that the soil, in the departmentof Calvados, contains _coal_; but the experiments which were made someyears ago at _Littry_, in the arondissement of _Bayeux_, should forbid theCaennois to indulge any very sanguine expectations on that score. 

In respect to the trade of the town, the two principal branches are _lace_and _cap_ making. The former trade is divided with Bayeux; and both placestogether give occupation to about thirty thousand pairs[99] of hands. People of all ages may be so employed; and the annual gross receipts havebeen estimated at four millions of francs. In _cap_ making only, at Caen, four thousand people have been constantly engaged, and a gross produce oftwo millions of francs has been the result of that branch of trade. A greatpart of this manufacture was consumed at home; but more than one half usedto be exported to Spain, Portugal, and the colonies belonging to France. They pretend to say, however, that this article of commerce is muchdiminished both in profit and reputation: while that of _table linen_ isgaining proportionably in both. [100] There were formerly great _tanneries_in Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade hassuffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent check, and theignorance and inattention of the masters to recent improvements, introducedby means of chemistry, have helped to hasten its decay. To balance thismisfortune, there has of late sprung up a very general and judiciouslydirected commercial spirit in the article of _porcelaine_; and if Caen beinferior to its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, inthe articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in thatwhich relates to _pottery_ and _china_: no mean articles in the supply ofdomestic wants and luxuries. But it is in matters of higher "pith andmoment" that Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just noticed. There is a better spirit of _education_ abroad; and, for its size, morescience and more literature will be found in it. 

This place has been long famous for the education of Lawyers. There are twodistinct academies--one for "Science and the Belles-Lettres"--the other foragriculture and commerce. The _Lycée_ is a noble building, close to theAbbey of St. Stephen: but I wish its façade had been Gothic, to harmonisewith the Abbey. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from theprevalent appearance of _stone_ in its public buildings. The environs ofthe town afford quarries, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in acomparatively soft state--and is thus cut into the several forms requiredwith the greatest facility. It is then exposed, and every succeeding dayappears to add to its white tint and durable quality. I saw some importantimprovements making in the outskirts of the town, [101] in which they werefinishing shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the most correct andgratifying. Still farther from the immediate vicinity of Caen, they findstone of a closer grain; and with this they make stair-cases, and pavementsfor the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-cases in this place, which are usually circular, and projecting from the building, struck me asbeing equally curious and uncommon. It is asserted that they have differentkinds of _marble_ in the department of Calvados, which equal that of thesouth of France. At _Basly_ and _Vieux_ white marble is found which hasbeen judged worthy of a comparison with Parian; but this is surely a littlepresumptuous. However, it is known that Cardinal Richelieu brought fromVieux all the marble with which he built the chapel in the college of theSorbonne. 

Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to particular society, Caen may be preferable to Rouen. The costume and manners of the commonpeople are pretty much, if not entirely, the same; except that, as todress, the _cauchoise_ is here rather more simple than at Dieppe and Rouen. The upper fille-de-chambre at our hotel displays not only a good correctmodel of national dress, but she is well-looking in her person, andwell-bred in her manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed upon this good-natured youngwoman to sit for her likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The girl'seyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the proposal, and even anexpression of gratitude mingled itself in her manner of compliance. I sendyou the figure and dress of the fille-de-chambre at the _Hotel Royale_ ofCaen. [102]

[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, CAEN. ]

Caen is called the dépôt of the English. [103] In truth there is an amazingnumber of our countrymen here, and from very different causes. One familycomes to reside from motives of economy; another from those of education; athird from those of retirement; and a fourth from pure love of sittingdown, in a strange place, with the chance of making some pleasantconnection, or of being engaged in seeking some strange adventure: Good andcheap living, and novel society, are doubtless the main attractions. Butthere is desperate ill blood just now between the _Caennois_ (I will notmake use of the enlarged term _Francois_) and the English; and I will tellyou the cause. Do you remember the emphatic phrase in my last, "all aboutthe duel?" Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival, [104] a duelwas fought between a young French law-student, and a young Englishman; thelatter the son of a naval captain. I will mention no names; and so far notwound the feelings of the friends of the parties concerned. But this duel, my friend, has been "THE DUEL OF DUELS"--on the score of desperation, andof a fixed purpose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and Itrust will never be considered as one. You must know then, that Caen, inspite of all the "bouleversemens" of the Revolution, has maintained itsancient reputation of possessing a very large seminary, or college forstudents at law. These students amount to nearly 600 in number. Most younggentlemen under twenty years of age are at times riotous, or frolicsome, orfoolish. Generally speaking, however, the students conduct themselves withpropriety: but there had been a law-suit between a French and Englishsuitor, and the Judge pronounced sentence in favour of our countryman. Thehall was crowded with spectators, and among them was a plentiful number oflaw-students. As they were retiring, one young Frenchman either madefrightful faces, or contemptible gestures, in a very fixed and insultingmanner, at a young Englishman--the son of this naval captain. Ourcountryman had no means or power of noticing or resenting the insult, asthe aggressor was surrounded by his companions. It so happened that it wasfair time at Caen; and in the evening of the same day, our countrymanrecognised, in the crowd at the fair, the physiognomy of the young man whohad insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached him, and gave him tounderstand that his rude behaviour should be noticed at a proper time andin a proper place: whereupon the Frenchman came up to him, shook himviolently by the arm, and told him to "fix his distance on the ensuingmorning. " Now the habit of duelling is very common among theselaw-students; but they measure twenty-five paces, fire, and of course ... MISS--and then fancy themselves great heroes ... And there is an end of theaffair. Not so upon the present occasion. "Fifteen paces, " if youplease--said the student, sarcastically, with a conviction of thebackwardness of his opponent to meet him. "FIVE, rather"--exclaimed theprovoked Englishman--"I will fight you at FIVE paces:"--and it was agreedthat they should meet and fight on the morrow, at five paces only asunder. 

Each party was under twenty; but I believe the English youth had scarcelyattained his nineteenth year. What I am about to relate will cause yourflesh to creep. It was determined by the seconds, as _one_ must necessarily_fall_, from firing at so short a distance, that only _one_ pistol shouldbe loaded with _ball_: the other having nothing but _powder_:--and that, asthe Frenchman had challenged, he was to have the choice of the pistols. They parted. The seconds prepared the pistols according to agreement, andthe fatal morning came. The combatants appeared, without one jot ofabatement of spirit or of cool courage. The pistols lay upon the grassbefore them: one loaded only with powder, and the other with powder andball. The Frenchman advanced: took up a pistol, weighed and balanced itmost carefully in his hand, and then ... Laid it down. He seized the otherpistol, and cocking it, fixed himself upon the spot from whence he was tofire. The English youth was necessarily compelled to take the abandonedpistol. Five paces were then measured ... And on the signal being given, they both fired ... And the Frenchman fell ... DEAD UPON THE SPOT! TheFrenchman had in fact _taken up_, but afterwards _laid down_, the verypistol which was loaded with the fatal _ball_--on the supposition that itwas of too light a weight; and even seemed to compliment himself upon hissupposed sagacity on the occasion. But to proceed. The ball went throughhis heart, as I understood. The second of the deceased on seeing his frienda reeking corpse at his feet, became mad and outrageous ... And was forfighting the survivor immediately! Upon which, the lad of mettle andcourage replied, that he would not fight a man without a _second_--"Butgo, " said he, (drawing his watch coolly from his fob). I will give youtwenty minutes to come back again with your second. " He waited, with hiswatch in his hand, and by the dead body of his antagonist, for the returnof the Frenchman; but on the expiration of the time, his own secondconjured him to consult his safety and depart; for that, from henceforth, his life was in jeopardy. He left the ground; obtained his passport, andquitted the town instantly ... The dead body of his antagonist was thenplaced on a bier: and his funeral was attended by several hundreds of hiscompanions--who, armed with muskets and swords, threatened destruction tothe civil and military authorities if they presumed to interfere. All thishas necessarily increased the ill-blood which is admitted to exist betweenthe English and French ... But the affair is now beginning to blowover. [105]

A truce to such topics. It is now time to furnish you with some detailsrelating to your favourite subjects of ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES andBIBLIOGRAPHY. The former shall take precedence. First of the _streets_;secondly of the _houses_; and thirdly of the _public buildings_;ecclesiastical and civil. 

To begin with the STREETS. Those of _St. Pierre, Notre Dame_, and _St. Jean_ are the principal for bustle and business. The first two form onecontinuous line, leading to the abbey of St. Stephen, and afford in fact avery interesting stroll to the observer of men and manners. The shops areinferior to those of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible inthem. The street beyond the abbey, and those called _Guilbert_, and _desChanoines_, leading towards the river, are considered among the genteelest. Ducarel pronounced the _houses_ of Caen "mean in general, though usuallybuilt of stone;" but I do not agree with him in this conclusion. The openparts about the _Lycée_ and the _Abbey of St. Stephen_, together with the_Place Royale_, where the library is situated, form very agreeable spacesfor the promenade of the ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. The_Courts_ are full of architectural curiosities, but mostly of the time ofFrancis I. Of _domestic_ architecture, those houses, with elaboratecarvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubtless of the greatestantiquity. There are a great number of these; and some very much older thanothers. 

A curious old house is to the right hand corner of the street _St. Jean_:as you go to the Post Office. But I must inform you that the residence ofthe famous MALHERBE yet exists in the street leading to the Abbey of St. Stephen. This house is of the middle of the sixteenth century: and whatCorneille is to _Rouen_, Malherbe is to _Caen_. "ICI NAQUIT MALHERBE, " &c. As you will perceive from the annexed view of this house, inscribed uponthe front of the building. Malherbe has been doomed to receive greaterhonours. His head was first struck, in a series of medals, to perpetuatethe resemblances of the most eminent literary characters (male and female)in France: and it is due to the amiable Pierre-Aimé Lair to designate himas the FATHER of this medallic project. 

[Illustration]

In perambulating this town, one cannot but be surprised at the absence of_Fountains_--those charming pieces of architecture and of streetembellishment. In this respect, Rouen has infinitely the advantage of Caen:where, instead of the trickling current of translucent water, we observenothing but the partial and perturbed stream issuing from ugly _wells_[106]as tasteless in their structure as they are inconvenient in the procuringof water. Upon one or two of these wells, I observed the dates of 1560 and1588. 

The PUBLIC EDIFICES, however, demand a particular and appropriatedescription: and first of those of the ecclesiastical order. Let us begintherefore with the ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN; for it is the noblest and mostinteresting on many accounts. It is called by the name of that Saint, inasmuch as there stood formerly a chapel, on the same site, dedicated tohim. The present building was completed and solemnly dedicated by Williamthe Conqueror, in the presence of his wife, his two sons Robert andWilliam, his favourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of Rouen, andThomas Archbishop of York--towards the year 1080: but I strongly suspect, from the present prevailing character of the architecture, that nothingmore than the west front and the towers upon which the spires rest, remainof its ancient structure. The spires (as the Abbé De La Rue conjectures, and as I should also have thought) are about two centuries later than thetowers. 

The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thirteenth, rather thanof the end of the eleventh, century. The first exterior view of the westfront, and of the towers, is extremely interesting; from the grey and cleartint, as well as excellent quality, of the stone, which, according to Huet, was brought partly from Vaucelle and partly from Allemagne. [107] One of thecorner abutments of one of the towers has fallen down; and a great portionof what remains seems to indicate rapid decay. The whole stands indeedgreatly in need of reparation. Ducarel, if I remember rightly, [108] hasmade, of this whole front, a sort of elevation, as if it were intended fora wooden model to work by: having all the stiffness and precision of anerection of forty-eight hours standing only. The central tower is of verystunted dimensions, and overwhelmed by a roof in the form of anextinguisher. This, in fact, was the consequence of the devastations of theCalvinists; who absolutely sapped the foundation of the tower, with thehope of overwhelming the whole choir in ruin--but a part only of theirmalignant object was accomplished. The component parts of the easternextremity are strangely and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no goodcommanding exterior view can be obtained from the _place_, or confinedsquare, opposite the towers. 

But let us return to the west-front; and opening the unfastened green-baizecovered door, enter softly and silently into the venerable interior--sacredeven to the feelings of Englishmen! Of this interior, very much is changedfrom its original character. The side aisles retain their flattened archedroofs and pillars; and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters--oralto-rilievo-like pillars--running from bottom to top, which are to be seenin the abbey of Jumieges. The capitals of these long pillars arecomparatively of modern date. To the left on entrance, within a sidechapel, is the burial place of MATILDA, the wife of the Conqueror. Thetombstone attesting her interment is undoubtedly of the time. Generallyspeaking, the interior is cold, and dull of effect. The side chapels, ofwhich not fewer than sixteen encircle the choir, have the discordantaccompaniments of Grecian balustrades to separate them from the choir andnave. There is a good number of _Confessionals_ within them; and at one ofthese I saw, for the first time, _two_ women, kneeling, in the act ofconfession to the _same priest_. "C'est un peu fort, " observed our guide inan under-voice, and with a humourous expression of countenance! MeanwhileMr. Lewis, who was in an opposite direction in the cathedral, wasexercising his pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject. 

[Illustration]

To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think, ) is hung the hugeportrait, in oil, within a black and gilt frame, of which Ducarel haspublished an engraving, on the supposition of its being the portrait ofWILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. But nothing can be more ridiculous than such aconclusion. In the first place, the picture itself, which is a palpablecopy, cannot be older than a century; and, in the second place, were it anoriginal performance, it could not be older than the time of FrancisI:--when, in fact, it purports to have been executed--as a faithful copy ofthe figure of King William, seen by the Cardinals in 1522, who were seizedwith a sacred phrenzy to take a peep at the body as it might exist at thattime! The costume of the oil-painting is evidently that of the period ofour Henry VIII. ; and to suppose that the body of William--even had itremained in so surprisingly perfect a state as Ducarel intimates, after aninterment of upwards of four hundred years--could have presented such acostume, when, from Ducarel's own statement, another whole-lengthrepresentation of the same person is _totally different_--and moredecidedly of the character of William's time--is really quite a reproach toany antiquary who plumes himself upon the possession even of common sense. 

In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, the body of theConqueror was entombed with great pomp; and a monument erected to hismemory of the most elaborate and costly description. Nothing now remainsbut a flat black marble slab, with a short inscription, of quite a recentdate. 

In the present state of the abbey, [109] and even in that of Ducarel's time, there is, and was, a great dearth of sepulchral monuments. Indeed I knownot whether you need be detained another minute within the interior; exceptit be, to add your share of admiration to that which has been long andjustly bestowed on the huge organ[110] at the west end of the nave, whichis considered to be the finest in all France. But Normandy abounds inchurch decorations of this kind. Leaving therefore this venerable pile, endeared to the British antiquary by a thousand pleasing associations ofideas, we strike off into an adjoining court yard, and observe the ruins ofa pretty extensive pile of building, which is called by Ducarel the _Palaceof the Conqueror_. But in this supposed palace, in its _present_ state, most assuredly William I. _never_ resided: for it is clearly not older thanthe thirteenth century: if so ancient. Ducarel saw a great deal more thanis now to be seen; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain entrance into whatappeared to be the principal room, I was stopped by an old woman, whoassured me "qu'il n'y avoit rien que du chauffage. " It was true enough: thewhole of the untenanted interior contained nothing but wood fuel. Returningto the principal street, and making a slight digression to the right, youdescend somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins, called _St. Etienne le Vieil_. In Ducarel's time this church is described as entire. Onthe exterior of one of the remaining buttresses is a whole length figure, about four English feet in height (as far as I could guess by the eye) of aman on horseback--mutilated--trampling upon another man at its feet. 

It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament. But, would you believe it?this figure also, in the opinion of Bourgueville, [111] was intended forWilliam the the Conqueror--representing his triumphant entry into Caen! Asan object of art, even in its present mutilated state, it is highlyinteresting; and I rejoice that Mr. Cotman is likely to preserve the littlethat remains from the hazard of destruction by the fidelity of his own copyof it. [112] It is quite clear that, close to the figure, you discovertraces of style which are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. Theinterior of what remains of this consecrated edifice is converted "horrescoreferens" into a receptacle for ... Carriages for hire. Not far from thisspot stood formerly a magnificent CROSS--demolished during the memorablevisit of the Calvinists. [113] In the way to the abbey of the Trinity, quiteat the opposite or eastern extremity of the town, you necessarily passalong the _Rue St. Pierre_, and enter into the market-place, affording anopening before the most beautiful church in all Normandy. It is the churchof _St. Pierre de Darnetal_ of which I now speak, and from which the nameof the street is derived. The tower and spire are of the most admirableform and workmanship. [114] The extreme delicacy and picturesque effect ofthe stone tiles, with which the spire is covered, as well as the lightnessand imposing consequence given to the tower upon which the spire rests, areof a character peculiar to itself. The whole has a charming effect. Butsevere criticism compels one to admit that the body of the church isdefective in fine taste and unity of parts. The style is not only floridGothic, but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so speak. The partsare capriciously put together: filled, and even crammed, with ornaments ofapparently all ages: concluding with the Grecian mixture introduced in thereign of Francis I. The buttresses are, however, generally, lofty and airy. In the midst of this complicated and corrupt style of architecture, thetower and spire rise like a structure built by preternatural hands; and Iam not sure that, at this moment, I can recollect any thing of equal beautyand effect in the whole range of ecclesiastical edifices in our owncountry. Look at this building, from any part of the town, and you mustacknowledge that it has the strongest claims to unqualifiedadmiration. [115] The body of the church is of very considerable dimensions. I entered it on a Sunday morning, about eleven o'clock, and found it quitefilled with a large congregation, in which the _cauchoise_, as usual, appeared like a broad white mass--from one end to the other. The priestswere in procession. One of the most magnificent organs imaginable was infull intonation, with every stop opened; the voices of the congregationwere lustily exercised; and the offices of religion were carried on in amanner which would seem to indicate a warm sense of devotion among theworshippers. There is a tolerably good set of modern paintings (the bestwhich I have yet seen in the interior of a church) of the _Life of Christ_, in the side chapels. The eastern extremity, or the further end of _OurLady's Chapel_, is horribly bedaubed and over-loaded with the mosttasteless specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps ever witnessed!The great bell of this church, which has an uncommonly deep and fine tone, is for ever

 Swinging slow with solemn roar!

that is to say:--it is tolling from five in the morning till ten at night;so incessantly, in one side-chapel or another, are these offices carried onwithin this maternal parish church. [116]

I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning tower of a church in the_Rue St. Jean_, [117] which is one of the principal streets in the town: andwhich is terminated by the _Place des Cazernes_, flanked by the river Orne. In this street I was asked, by a bookseller, two pounds two shillings, fora thumbed and cropt copy of the _Elzevir-Heinsius Horace_ of 1629; but withwhich demand I did not of course comply. In fact, they have the mostextravagant notions of the prices of Elzevirs, both here and at Rouen. 

You must now attend me to the most interesting public building, perhaps allthings considered, which is to be seen at Caen. I mean, the _Abbey of theHoly Trinity_, or L'ABBAYE AUX DAMES. [118] This abbey was founded by thewife of the Conqueror, about the same time that William erected that of St. Stephen. Ducarel's description of it, which I have just seen in a copy ofthe _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, in a bookseller's shop, is sufficientlymeagre. His plates are also sufficiently miserable: but things arestrangely altered since his time. The nave of the church is occupied by amanufactory for making cordage, or twine; and upwards of a hundred lads arenow busied in their _flaxen_ occupations, where formerly the nun kneltbefore the cross, or was occupied in auricular confession. The entrance atthe western extremity is entirely stopped up: but the exterior givesmanifest proof of an antiquity equal to that of the Abbey of St. Stephen. The upper part of the towers are palpably of the fifteenth, or rather ofthe early part of the sixteenth century. I had no opportunity of judging ofthe neat pavement of the floor of the nave, in white and black marble, asnoticed by Ducarel, on account of the occupation of this part of thebuilding by the manufacturing children; but I saw some very ancienttomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been removedfrom the nave or side aisles, and were placed against the sides of thenorth transept. The nave is entirely _walled up_ from the transepts, butthe choir is fortunately preserved; and a more perfect and interestingspecimen of its kind, of the same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seenin Normandy. All the monuments as well as the altars, described by Ducarel, are now taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into theupper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars--and walked alongthe wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say: but a more adventurousspirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me: for, on quittingdaylight, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in our way to the centraltower--to enjoy from hence a view of the town. I almost tremble as I relateit. There had been put up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leadingabsolutely to ... Nothing: or, rather, to a dark void space. I happened tobe foremost in ascending, yet groping in the dark--with the guide luckilyclose behind me. Having reached the topmost step, I was raising my foot toa supposed higher or succeeding step ... But there was _none_. A depth ofeighteen feet at least was below me. The guide caught my coat, as I wasabout to lose my balance--and roared out "Arrêtez--tenez!" The leastbalance or inclination, one way or the other, is sufficient, upon thesecritical occasions: when luckily, from his catching my coat, and pulling mein consequence slightly backwards, my fall ... And my LIFE ... Were equallysaved! I have reason from henceforth to remember the ABBAYE AUX DAMES atCaen. 

I gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal altitude withthose of the western extremity, and from thence surveyed the town, as wellas the drizzling rain would permit. I saw enough however to convince methat the site of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearlyupon the highest ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambitionto mount to the top of the tower; nor did he even possess that mostcommendable of all species of architectural curiosity, a wish to visit theCRYPT. Thus, in either extremity--I evinced a more laudable spirit ofenterprise than did my old-fashioned predecessor. Accordingly, from thesummit, you must accompany me to the lowest depth of the building. Idescended by the same (somewhat intricate) route, and I took especial careto avoid all "temporary wooden stair-cases. " The crypt, beneath the choir, is perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the choir itself. Withinan old, very old, stone coffin--at the further circular end--are thepulverized remains of one of the earliest Abbesses. [119] I gazed aroundwith mixed sensations of veneration and awe, and threw myself back intocenturies past, fancying that the shrouded figure of MATILDA herself glidedby, with a look as if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm! Havinggratified my curiosity by a careful survey of this subterraneous abode, Irevisited the regions of day-light, and made towards the large building, now a manufactory, which in Ducarel's time had been a nunnery. Therevolution has swept away every human being in the character of a nun; butthe director of the manufactory shewed me, with great civility, some relicsof old crosses, rings, veils, lachrymatories, &c. Which had been taken fromthe crypt I had recently visited. These relics savoured of considerableantiquity. Tom Hearne would have set about proving that they _must_ havebelonged to Matilda herself; but I will have neither the presumption northe merit of attempting this proof. They seemed indeed to have undergonehalf a dozen decompositions. Upon the whole, if our Antiquarian Society, after having exhausted the cathedrals of their own country, should everthink of perpetuating the principal ecclesiastical edifices of Normandy, bymeans of the _Art of Engraving_, let them begin their labours with theABBAYE AUX DAMES at Caen. 

The foregoing, my dear friend, are the principal ecclesiastical buildingsin this place. There are other public edifices, but comparatively of amodern date. And yet I should be guilty of a gross omission were I toneglect giving you an account, however superficial, of the remains of anapparently CASTELLATED BUILDING, a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames--orrather to the right, upon elevated ground, as you enter the town by the waywe came. As far as I can discover, this appears to have escapedDucarel. [120] It is doubtless a very curious relic. Running along the upperpart of the walls, there is a series of basso-relievo heads, medallion-wise, cut in stone, evidently intended for portraits. They areassuredly not older than the reign of Francis I. And may be even as late asthat of Henry II. Among these rude medallions, is a female head, with aferocious-looking man on each side of it, either saluting the woman, orwhispering in her ear. But the most striking objects are the stone figuresof two men, upon a circular tower, of which one is in the act of shootingan arrow, and the other as if holding a drawn sword. I got admittancewithin the building; and ascending the tower, found that these were onlythe _trunks_ of figures, --and removable at pleasure. I could only stroketheir beards and shake their bodies a little, which was of course done withimpunity. Whether the present be the _original_ place of their destinationmay be very doubtful. The Abbé de la Rue, with whom I discoursed upon thesubject yesterday morning, is of opinion that these figures are of the timeof Louis XI. : which makes them a little more ancient than the otherornaments of the building. As to the interior, I could gather nothing withcertainty of the original character of the place from the present remains. The earth is piled up, here and there, in artificial mounds covered withgrass: and an orchard, and rich pasture land (where I saw several womenmilking cows) form the whole of the interior scenery. However the_Caennois_ are rather proud of this building. 

Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting the date of its erection, and "putting the colophon" to this disquisition respecting the principalpublic buildings at Caen, it is high time to assure you how faithfully I amalways yours. 

[96] ["Besides her numerous public schools, Caen possesses two Schools of Art--one for design, the other for Architecture and Ornament--where the Students are _gratuitously_ instructed. " LICQUET. ]

[97] It is called _Vin Huet_--and is the last wine which a traveller will be disposed to ask for. When Henry IV. Passed through the town, he could not conceive why such excellent grapes should produce such execrable wine. I owe this intelligence to Mons. LICQUET. 

[98] Somewhere about 150 English acres. 

[99] [I had before said _twenty_--but Mons. Licquet observes, I might have said--thirty thousand pairs of hands. ]

[100] Caen was celebrated for its table linen three centuries ago. Consult BOURGUEVILLE: _Antiquitez de Caen_; 1588, 8vo. P. 26. 

[101] The fauxbourgs of Caen, in the present day, wear a melancholy contrast to what they appear to have done in the middle of the XVIth century. Consult the pleasantly penned description of these fauxbourgs by the first topographer of the place, BOURGUEVILLE: in his _Antiquitez de Caen_, pp. 5, 6, 26. 

 It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority, that long after the time even of the publication just referred to, the town of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone walls--upon the tops of which three men could walk a-breast: and from thence the inhabitants could discern, across those large and beautiful gardens, "the vessels sailing in the river Orne, and unloading their cargoes by the sides of walls. " It appears indeed to have been a sort of lounge, or fashionable promenade--by means of various ladders for the purposes of ascent and descent. 

 Among the old prints and bird's-eye views of Caen, which I saw in the collection of DE BOZE at the Royal Library at Paris, there is one accompanied by three pages of printed description, which begins with the lines of Guillaume Breton "Villa potens, opulenta, situ spatiosa decora. " See First Edition, vol. I. P. 274. Evelyn, in 1644, thus describes the town of Caen. "The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at the entrance, at an exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke, with well understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes, and other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &c. _Life and Writings of J. Evelyn_, 1818, 4to. Vol. I. P. 52. 

[102] See the OPPOSITE PLATE. 

[103] It was a similar dépôt in Ducarel's time. 

[104] The story was in fact told us the very first night of our arrival, by M. Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through it with a method, emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking from the obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance. But he frankly allowed that "Monsieur l'Anglois se conduisait bien. "

[105] [The affair is now scarcely remembered; and the successful champion died a natural death within about three years afterwards. Mons. Licquet slenderly doubts portions of this tragical tale: but I have good reason to believe that it is not an exaggerated one. As to what occurred _after_ the death of one of the combatants, I am unwilling to revive unpleasant sensations by its recapitulation. ]

[106] Bourgueville seems bitterly to lament the substitution of wells for fountains. He proposes a plan, quite feasible in his own estimation, whereby this desirable object might be effected: and then retorts upon his townsmen by reminding them of the commodious fountains at _Lisieux, Falaise and Vire_--of which the inhabitants "n'ont rien espargné pour auoir ceste decoration et commodité en leurs villes. "--spiritedly adding--"si j'estois encore en auctorité, j'y ferois mon pouuoir, et ie y offre de mes biens. " p. 17. 

[107] [I am most prompt to plead guilty to a species of _Hippopotamos_ error, in having here translated the word _Allemagne_ into GERMANY! Now, although this translation, per se, be correct, yet, as applicable to the text, it is most incorrect--as the _Allemagne_ in question happens to be a _Parish in the neighbourhood of Caen_! My translator, in turn, treats me somewhat tenderly when he designates this as "une méprise fort singulière. " vol. Ii. P. 25. ]

[108] The plate of Ducarel, here alluded to, forms the fourth plate in his work; affording, from the starch manner in which it is engraved, an idea of one of the most disproportioned, ugly buildings imaginable. Mr. Cotman has favoured us with a good bold etching of the West Front, and of the elevation of compartments of the Nave; The former is at once faithful and magnificent; but the lower part wants characteristic markings. 

[109] It should be noticed that, "besides the immense benefactions which William in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death, presented thereto the _crown_ which he used to wear at all high festivals, together with his _sceptre and rod_: a cup set with precious stones; his candlesticks of gold, and all his regalia: as also the ivory bugle-horn which usually hung at his back. " _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 51. Note. The story of the breaking open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and finding the Conqueror's remains, is told by Bourgueville--who was an _eye witness_ of these depredations, and who tried to "soften the obdurate hearts" of the pillagers, but in vain. This contemporaneous historian observes that, in his time "the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious stained-glass windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken and destroyed--and that the seats, chairs, &c. And all other wooden materials were consumed by fire, " p. 171. Huet observes that a "Dom Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie, " religious of St. Stephen's, took care of the monument of the Conqueror in the year 1642, and replaced it in the state in which it appeared in Huet's time. " _Origines de Caen_; p. 248. The revolution was still more terrible than the Calvinistic fury;--for no traces of the monument are now to be seen. 

[110] The west window is almost totally obscured by a most gigantic organ built close to it, and allowed to be the finest in all France. This organ is so big, as to require eleven large bellows, &c. _Ducarel_, p. 57. He then goes on to observe, that "amongst the plate preserved in the treasury of this church, is a curious SILVER SALVER, about ten inches in diameter, gilt, and inlaid with antique medals. Tradition assures us, that it was on this salver, that king William the conqueror placed the foundation charter of the abbey when he presented it, at the high altar, on the dedication of the church. The edges of this salver, which stands on a foot stalk of the same metal, are a little turned up, and carved. In the centre is inlaid a Greek medal; on the obverse whereof is this legend, [Greek: Ausander Aukonos] but it being fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other medals, forty in number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite through; so that the edges of the holes serve as frames for the medals. These medals are Roman, and in the highest preservation. "

[111] Yet Bourgueville's description of the group, as it appeared in his time, trips up the heels of his own conjecture. He says that there were, besides the two figures above mentioned, "vn autre homme et femme à genoux, comme s'ils demandoient raison de la mort de leur enfant, qui est vne antiquité de grand remarque dont je ne puis donner autre certitude de l'histoire. " _Antiquitez de Caen_; p. 39. Now, it is this additional portion of the group (at present no longer in existence) which should seem to confirm the conjecture of my friend Mr. Douce--that it is a representation of the received story, in the middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan being met by a widow who demanded justice against the murderer of her son. The Emperor, who had just mounted his horse to set out upon some hostile expedition, replied, that "he would listen to her on his return. " The woman said, "What, if you never return?" "My successor will satisfy you"--he replied--"But how will that benefit you, "--resumed the widow. The Emperor then descended from his horse, and enquiring into the woman's case, caused justice to be done to her. Some of the stories say that the murderer was the Emperor's own son. 

[112] [Since the publication of the first edition of this work, the figure in question has appeared from the pencil and burin of Mr. Cotman; of which the only fault, as it strikes me, is, that the surface is too rough--or the effect too sketchy. ]

[113] Bourgueville has minutely described it in his _Antiquities_; and his description is copied in the preceding edition of this work. 

[114] Bourgueville is extremely particular and even eloquent in his account of the tower, &c. He says that he had "seen towers at Paris, Rouen, Toulouse, Avignon, Narbonne, Montpelier, Lyons, Amiens, Chartres, Angiers, Bayeux, Constances, (qu. Coutances?) and those of St. Stephen at Caen, and others, in divers parts of France, which are built in a pyramidal form--but THIS TOWER OT ST. PETER exceeded all the others, as well in its height, as in its curious form of construction. " _Antiq. De Caen_; p. 36. He regrets, however, that the _name of the architect_ has not descended to us. [It is right to correct an error, in the preceding edition, which has been committed on the authority of Ducarel. That Antiquary supposed the tower and spire to have been built by the generosity of one NICHOLAS, an ENGLISHMAN. " Mons. Licquet has, I think, reclaimed the true author of such munificence, as his _own_ countryman. --NICOLAS LANGLOIS:--whose name thus occurs in his epitaph, preserved by Bourgueville. 

 _Le Vendredi, devant tout droict_ _La Saint Cler que le temps n'est froit, _ _Trespassa_ NICOLLE L'ANGLOIS, _L'an Mil Trois Cens et Dix Sept. _] &c. &c. 

 Reverting, to old BOURGUEVILLE, I cannot take leave of him without expressing my hearty thanks for the amusement and information which his unostentatious octavo volume--entitled _Les Recherches et Antiquitez de la Ville et Université de Caen, &c_. (à Caen, 1588, 8vo. ) has afforded me. 

 The author, who tells us he was born in 1504, lived through the most critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he wrote. His plan is perfectly artless, and his style as completely simple. Nor does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient volumes of topography are invaluable--as preserving the memory of things and of objects, which, but for such record, had perished without the hope or chance of recovery. 

[115] [Ten years have elapsed since this sentence was written, and the experience gained in those years only confirms the truth (according to the conception of the author) of the above assertion. Such a tower and spire, if found in England, must be looked for in Salisbury Cathedral; but though this latter be much loftier, it is stiff, cold, and formal, comparatively with that of which the text makes mention. ]

[116] [For six months in the year--that is to say, from Lady Day till Michaelmas Day--this great Bell tolls, at a quarter before ten, as a curfew. ]

[117] A plate of it may be found in the publication of Mr. Dawson Turner, and of Mr. Cotman. 

[118] Of this building Mr. Cotman has published the West front, east end, exterior and interior; great arches under the tower; crypt; east side of south transept; elevation of the North side of the choir: elevation of the window; South side exterior; view down the nave, N. W. Direction. 

[119] Bourgueville describes the havoc which took place within this abbey at the memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1562. From plundering the church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 172, ) they proceeded to commit similar ravages here:--"sans auoir respect ni reuerence à la Dame Abbesse, ni à la religion et douceur feminine des Dames Religieuses. "--"plusieurs des officiers de la maison s'y trouucrent, vsans de gracieuses persuasions, pour penser flechir le coeur de ces plus que brutaux;" p. 174. 

[120] Unless it be what he calls "the FORT OF THE HOLY TRINITY of Caen; in which was constantly kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose annual pay was 100 single crowns. This was demolished by Charles, king of Navarre, in the year 1360, during the war which he carried on against Charles the Dauphin, afterwards Charles V. , &c. " _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 67. This castle, or the building once flanked by the walls above described, was twice taken by the English; once in 1346, when they made an immense booty, and loaded their ships with the gold and silver vessels found therein; and the second time in 1417, when they established themselves as masters of the place for 33 years. _Annuaire du Calvados_; 1803-4; p. 63. 

LETTER XIII. 

LITERARY SOCIETY. ABBÉ DE LA RUE. MESSRS. PIERRE-AIMÉ LAIR AND LAMOUROUX. MEDAL OF MALHERBE. BOOKSELLERS. MEMOIR OF THE LATE M. MOYSANT, PUBLICLIBRARIAN. COURTS OF JUSTICE. 

From the dead let me conduct you to the living. In other words, prepare toreceive some account of _Society_, --and of things appertaining to theformation of the intellectual character. Caen can boast of a publicLiterary Society, and of the publication of its memoirs. [121] But these"memoirs" consist at present of only six volumes, and are in our owncountry extremely rare. 

[Illustration: ABBÉ DE LA RUE AEtat. LXXIV. ]

Among the men whose moral character and literary reputation throw a sort oflustre upon Caen, there is no one perhaps that stands upon _quite_ so loftyan eminence as the ABBÉ DE LA RUE; at this time occupied in publishing a_History of Caen_. [122] As an archaeologist, he has no superior among hiscountrymen; while his essays upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_ and the_Anglo-Norman Poets_, published in our _Archæologia_, prove that there arefew, even among ourselves, who could have treated those interestingsubjects with more dexterity or better success. The Abbé is, in short, thegreat archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was pleased to pay me a Visitat Lagouelle's. He is fast advancing towards his seventieth year. Hisfigure is rather stout, and above the mean height: his complexion ishealthful, his eye brilliant, and a plentiful quantity of waving white hairadds much to the expression of his countenance. [123] He enquired kindlyafter our mutual friend Mr. Douce; of whose talents and character he spokein a manner which did equal honour to both. But he was inexorable, asto--_not_ dining with me; observing that his Order was forbidden to dine intaverns. He gave me a list of places which I ought to visit in my furtherprogress through Normandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I couldhave wished. He rarely visits Caen, although a great portion of his libraryis kept there: his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence ofa nobleman to whose son he was tutor. It is delightful to see a man, of hisvenerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying, in the eveningof life, (after braving such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that ofthe Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his faculties, and therespect of the virtuous and the wise. 

The study of _Natural History_ obtains pretty generally at Caen; indeedthey have an Academy in which this branch of learning is expresslytaught--and of which MONSIEUR LAMOUROUX[124] is at once the chief ornamentand instructor. This gentleman (to whom our friend Mr. Dawson Turnerfurnished me with a letter of introduction) has the most unaffectedmanners, and a countenance particularly open and winning. He is "a verydragon" in his pursuit. On my second call, I found him busied in unpackingsome baskets of seaweed, yet reeking with the briny moisture; and which hehandled and separated and classed with equal eagerness and facility. Thelibrary of M. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like library: filled withsensible, solid, and instructive books--and if he had only accepted arepeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with me at Lagouelle's, tomeet his learned brother PIERRE-AIMÉ LAIR, nothing would have been wantingto the completion of his character!

You have just heard the name of Pierre-Aimé Lair. Prepare to receive asketch of the character to which that name appertains. This gentleman isnot only the life and soul of the society--but of the very town--in whichhe moves. I walked with him, arm in arm, more than once, through very manystreets, passages, and courts, which were distinguished for any relic ofarchitectural antiquity. He was recognised and saluted by nearly one personout of three, in our progress. "Je vous salue"--"vous voilà avec Monsieurl'Anglois"--"bon jour, "--"comment ca va-t-il:"--The activity of Pierre-AiméLair is only equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness ofdisposition. He is all kindness. Call when you will, and ask for what youplease, the object solicited is sure to be granted. He never seems to rise(and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or untowardpropensities. With him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to tuneher carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is carried by him into everyabode however gloomy, and every society however dull. 

But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable man. Not only isPierre-Aimé Lair a lover and collector of tangible antiquities--such asglazed tiles, broken busts, old pictures, and fractured capitals--all seenin "long array", up the windings of his staircase--but he is a critic, anda patron of the _literary_ antiquities of his country. Caen (as I told youin my last despatch) is the birth-place of MALHERBE; and, in the characternow under discussion, it has found a perpetuator of the name and merits ofthe father of French verse. In the year 1806 our worthy antiquary put fortha project for a general subscription "for a medal in honour of_Malherbe_, "[125] which project was in due time rewarded by the names of_fifteen hundred_ efficient subscribers, at five francs a piece. Theproposal was doubtless flattering to the literary pride of the French; andluckily the execution of it surpassed the expectations of the subscribers. The head is undoubtedly of the most perfect execution. Not only, however, did this head of Malherbe succeed--but a feeling was expressed that itmight be followed up by a _Series of Heads_ of the most illustrious, ofboth sexes, in literature and the fine arts. The very hint was enough forLair: though I am not sure whether he be not the father of the _latter_design also. Accordingly, there has appeared, periodically, a set of headsof this description, in bronze or other metal, as the purchaserpleases--which has reflected infinite credit not only on the name of theprojector of this scheme, but on the present state of the fine arts inFrance. 

Yet another word about Pierre-Aimé Lair. He is not so inexorable as M. Lamouroux: for he _has_ dined with me, and quaffed the burgundy andchampagne of Lagouelle, commander in chief of this house. Better winescannot be quaffed; and Malherbe and the Duke of Wellington formed thealternate subjects of discourse and praise. In return, I have dined withour guest. He had prepared an abundant dinner, and a very select society:but although there was no wand, as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charmaway the dishes, &c. Or to interdict the tasting of them, yet it wasscarcely possible to partake of one in four... So unmercifully were theysteeped and buried in _butter!_ The principal topic of discourse, were themerits of the poets of the respective countries of France and England, fromwhich I have reason to think that Pope, Thomson, and Young, are among thegreatest favourites with the French. The white brandy of Pierre-Aimé Lair, introduced after dinner, is hardly to be described for its strength andpungency. "Vous n'avez rien comme ca chez vous?" "Je le crois bien, (Ireplied) c'est la liquéfaction même du feu. " We broke up before eight; eachretiring to his respective avocations--but did not dine till five. Iborrowed, however, "an hour or twain" of the evening, after the departureof the company, to enjoy the more particular conversation of our host; andthe more I saw and conversed with him; the greater was my gratification. Atparting, he loaded me with a pile of pamphlets, of all sizes, of his ownpublication; and I ventured to predict to him that he would terminate hismultifarious labours by settling into consolidated BIBLIOMANIACISM. "Onpeut faire pire!"--was his reply--on shaking hands with me, and telling mehe should certainly meet me again at _Bayeux_, in my progress throughNormandy. [126] My acquaintance with this amiable man seemed to be mysecurity from insults in the streets. 

Education here commences early, and with incitements as alluring as atRouen. POISSON in the _Rue Froide_ is the principal, and indeed a veryexcellent, printer; but BONNESERRE, in the same street, has put forth avastly pretty manual of infantine devotion, in a brochure of eight pages, of which I send you the first, and which you may compare with the specimentransmitted in a former letter. [127]

[Illustration]

Chapolin, in the _Rue-Froide-Rue, _ has recently published a most curiouslittle manual, in the cursive secretary gothic, entitled "_La Civilitéhonnête pour les enfans qui commence par la maniere d'apprendre et bienlire, prononcer et écrire_. " I call it "curious, " because the very firstinitial letter of the text, representing C, introduces us to the_bizarrerie_ of the early part of the XVIth century in treatises of asimilar character. Take this first letter, with a specimen also of those towhich it appertains. 

[Illustration]

This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit the worse on thataccount) precepts of the same period; such as we see in the variousversions of the "De Moribus Juvenum, " of which the "_Contenance de laTable, "_ in the French language, is probably the most popular. It isexecuted throughout in the same small and smudged gothic character; and, asI conceive; can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen must not bedismissed without respectful mention of the typographical talents of LEROY; who ranks after Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Bulmerand Bensley of the place. 

But among these venders of infantine literature, or of cheap popularpieces, there is no man who "drives such a trade" as PICARD-GUERIN, _Imprimeur en taille-douce et Fabricant d'Images_, " who lives in the _Ruedes Teinturiers, _ no. 175. I paid him more than one visit; as, from, his"fabrication, " issue the thousands and tens of thousands of broadsides, chap-books, &c. &c. Which inundate Lower Normandy. You give from _one_ to_three_ sous, according as the subject be simple or compound, upon wood orupon copper:--Saints, martyrs, and scriptural subjects; or heroes, chieftains, and monarchs, including the Duke of Wellington and Louis XVIII. Le Désiré--are among the taille-douces specified in the imprints. Madamedid me the honour of shewing me some of her choicest treasures, as herhusband was from home. Up stairs was a parcel of mirthful boys and girls, with painting brushes in their hands, and saucers of various colours beforethem. Upon enquiry, I found that they received four sous per dozen, forcolouring; but I will not take upon me to say that they were over or underpaid--of so _equivocal_ a character were their performances. Only I hopedto be excused if I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a foreigncountry, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the most mean andminute. With this feeling, I examined carefully what was put before me, andmade a selection sufficient to shew that it was the produce of French soil. Among the serious subjects were _two_ to which I paid particular attention. The one was a metrical cantique of the _Prodigal Son, _ with six wood cutsabove the text, exhibiting the leading points of the Gospel-narrative. Iwill cut out and send you the _second_ of these six: in which you willclearly perceive the military turn which seems to prevail throughout Francein things the most minute. The Prodigal is about to mount his horse andleave his father's house, in the cloke and cock'd hat of a French officer. 

[Illustration]

The _fourth_ of these cuts is droll enough. It is entitled, "_L'EnfantProdigue est chassé par ses maîtresses. "_ The expulsion consists in thewomen driving him out of doors with besoms and hair-brooms. It is veryprobable, however, that all this character of absurdity attaches to some ofour own representations of the same subject; if, instead of examining (asin Pope's time)

 ... The walls of Bedlam and Soho, we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which dangle from strings uponthe wall at Hyde Park Corner. 

Another subject of a serious character, which I am about to describe toyou, can rarely, in all probability, be the production of a London artist. It is called "_Notre-Dame de la bonne Délivrande_, " and is necessarilyconfined to the religion of the country. You have here, first of all, areduced form of the original: probably about one-third--and it is the moreappropriate, as it will serve to give you a very correct notion of thedressing out of the figures of the VIRGIN and CHILD which are meant tograce the altars of the chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches inNormandy. Is it possible that one spark of devotion can be kindled by thecontemplation of an object so grotesque and so absurd in the House of God?

[Illustration: SAINTE MARIE, MÈRE DE DIEU, priez pour nous]

To describe all the trumpery which is immediately around it, in theoriginal, would be a waste of time; but below are two good figures to theright, and two wretched ones to the left. Beneath the whole, is thefollowing _accredited_ consoling piece of intelligence:

 L'AN 830, _des Barbares descendent dans les Gaules, massacrent les Fidèles, profanent et brûlent les Eglises. Raoul, Duc de Normandie, se joint à eux; l'image de la Ste. Vierge demeure ensevelie sous les ruines de l'ancienne chapelle jusqu'au règne de Henri I. L'an 1331. Beaudouin, Baron de Douvres, averti par son berger qu'un mouton de son troupeau fouillait toujours dans le même endroit, fit ouvrir la terre, et trouva ce trésor caché depuis tant d'années. Il fit porter processionnellement cette sainte image dans l'Eglise de Douvres: mais Dieu permit qu'elle fut transportée par un Ange dans l'endroit de la chapelle où elle est maintenant révérée. C'est dans cette chapelle que, par l'intercession de Marie, les pécheurs reçoivent leur conversion, les affligés leur consolation, les infirmes la santé, les captifs leur delivrance, que ceux qui sont en mer échappent aux tempêtes et au naufrage, et que des miracles s'opèrent journellement sur les pieux Fidèles_. 

A word now for BIBLIOPOLISTS--including _Bouquinistes_, or venders of "oldand second-hand books. " The very morning following my arrival in Caen, Iwalked to the abbey of St. Stephen, before breakfast, and in the waythither stopped at a book stall, to the right, --and purchased some blackletter folios: among which the French version of _Caesar's Commentaries, _printed by Verard, in 1488, was the most desirable acquisition. It isreserved for Lord Spencer's library;[128] at a price which, freight andduty included, cannot reach the sum of twelve shillings of our money. Ofvenders of second hand and old books, the elder and younger MANOURY take adecisive lead. The former lives in the _Rue Froide_; the latter in the _RueNotre Dame. _ The father boasts of having upwards of thirty thousandvolumes, but I much doubt whether his stock amount to one half of thatnumber. He unhesitatingly asked me two _louis d'or_ for a copy of the_Vaudevires_ of OLIVIER BASSELIN, which is a modern, but privately printed, volume; and of which I hope to give you some amusing particulars by and by. He also told me that he had formerly sold a paper copy of _Fust's Bible of1462, _ with many of the illuminated initials cut out, to the library of theArsenal, at Paris, for 100 louis d'or. I only know that, if I had beenlibrarian, he should not have had one half the money. 

Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are comparative terms: for be itknown that the son is "agé de soixante ans. " Over his door you read anancient inscription, thus:

 "_Battu, percé, lié, Je veux changer de main_. "

This implies either (like Aladdin's old lamps for new) that he wishes togive new books in exchange for old ones, or that he can smarten up old onesby binding, or otherwise, and give them a renovated appearance. But thesolution is immaterial: the inscription being as above. The interior of theyounger Manoury's book repository almost appalled me. His front shop, and acorridor communicating with the back part of the house, are rank withmoisture; and his books are consequently rotting apace. Upon my making aspitiable a statement as I was able of this melancholy state of things--andpleading with all my energies against the inevitable destruction whichthreatened the dear books--the obdurate bibliopolist displayed not onescintillation of sympathy. He was absolutely indifferent to the wholeconcern. In the back parlour, almost impervious to day-light, his daughter, and a stout and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually elevatedcauchoise, were regaling themselves with soup and herbs at dinner. Ihurried through, in my way to the upper regions, with apologies for theintrusion; but was told that none were necessary--that I might go where, and stay as long, as I pleased--and that any explanation would be given tomy interrogatories in the way of business. I expressed my obligations forsuch civility; and gaining an upper room, by the help of a chair, made asurvey of its contents. What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, asthe only rational or desirable volume--half rotted with moisture--_Belon'sMarine Fishes_, 1551, 4to; and placing six francs (the price demanded) uponthe table, hurried back, through this sable and dismal territory, with asort of precipitancy amounting to horrour. What struck me, as productive ofa very extraordinary effect--was the cheerfulness and _gaieté de coeur_ ofthese females, in the midst of this region of darkness and desolation. Manoury told me that the Revolution had deprived him of the opportunity ofhaving the finest bookselling stock in France! His own carelessness andutter apathy are likely to prove yet more destructive enemies. 

But let us touch a more "spirit-stirring" chord in the book theme. Let usleave the _Bouquiniste_ for the PUBLIC LIBRARY: and I invite you mostearnestly to accompany me thither, and to hear matters of especial import. This library occupies the upper part of a fine large stone building, devoted to the public offices of government. The plan of the library isexceedingly striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one hundred andthirty-four, by eighty, French feet; and is supposed, apparently withjustice, to contain 20, 000 volumes. It is proportionably wide and lofty. M. HÉBERT is the present chief librarian, having succeeded the late M. Moysant, his uncle. Among the more eminent benefactors and Bibliomaniacs, attached to this library, the name of FRANCOIS MARTIN is singularlyconspicuous. He was, from all accounts, and especially from the informationof M. Hébert, one of the most raving of book-madmen: but he displayed, withal, a spirit of kindness and liberality towards his favouriteestablishment at Caen, which could not be easily shaken or subdued. He wasalso a man of letters, and evinced that most commendable of all literarypropensities--a love of the LITERATURE OF HIS COUNTRY. He amassed a verylarge collection of books, which was cruelly pillaged during theRevolution; but the public library became possessed of a great number ofthem. In those volumes, formerly belonging to him, which are now seen, isthe following printed inscription: "_Franciscus Martin, Doctor TheologusParisiensis, comparavit. Oretur pro co_. " He was head of the convent ofCordeliers, and Prefect of the Province: but his mode of collecting was notalways that which a public magistrate would call _legitimate_. He soughtbooks every where; and when he could not _buy_ them, or obtain them by fairmeans, he would _steal_ them, and carry them home in the sleeves of hisgown! He flourished about a century ago; and, with very few exceptions, allthe best conditioned books in the library belonged to this magisterialbook-robber. Among them I noted down with singular satisfaction the Aldineedition of _Stephanus de Urbibus_, 1502, folio--in its old vellum binding:seemly to the eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy of the_Repertorium Statutorum Ordinis Cartusiensis_, printed by _Amerbach, atBasil_, in a glorious gothic character, 1510, folio, escape my especialnotice--also the same Bibliomaniac's beautiful copy of the _Mentz Herbal_, of 1484, in 4to. 

But the obliquities of Martin assume a less questionable aspect, when wecontemplate a noble work, which he not only projected, but left behindready for publication. It is thus entitled: _Athenæ Normannorum veteres acrecentes, seu syllabus Auctorum qui oriundi è Normannia, &c. _ It consistsof one volume, in MS. , having the authority of government, to publish it, prefixed. There is a short Latin preface, by Martin, followed by two pagesof Latin verses beginning thus:

 _In Auctorum Normannicorum Syllabum. Prolusio metrica. En Syllabus prodit palàm Contextus arte sedula Ex litteratæ Neustriæ Auctoribus celebribus. _ &c. &c. 

Among the men, the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen, [129] was thefamous SAMUEL BOCHART; at once a botanist, a scholar, and a critic ofdistinguished celebrity. He was a native of Rouen, and his books (many ofthem replete with valuable ms. Notes) are among the chief treasures of thepublic library, here. Indeed there is a distinct catalogue of them, and thefunds left by their illustrious owner form the principal support of thelibrary establishment. Bochart's portrait, with those of many otherbenefactors to the library, adorns the walls; suspended above the books:affording a very agreeable coup-d'oeil. Indeed the principal division ofthe library, the further end of which commands a pleasant prospect, isworthy of an establishment belonging to the capital of an empire. Thekindness of M. Hébert, and of his assistant, rendered my frequentsojournings therein yet more delectable. The portrait of his uncle, M. MOYSANT, is among the ornaments of the chief room. Though Moysant was largeof stature, his lungs were feeble, and his constitution was delicate. Atthe age of nineteen, he was appointed professor of grammar and rhetoric inthe college of Lisieux. He then went to Paris, and studied under Beau andBatteux; when, applying himself more particularly to the profession ofphysic, he returned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on the cap ofDoctor of medicine; but he wanted either nerves or stamina for thesuccessful exercise of his profession. He had cured a patient, afterpainful and laborious attention, of a very serious illness; but his patientchose to take liberties too soon with his convalescent state. He wasimprudent: had a relapse; and was hurried to his grave. Moysant took itseriously to heart, and gave up his business in precipitancy and disgust. In fact, he was of too sanguine and irritable a temperament for the displayof that cool, cautious, and patient conduct, which it behoveth all youngphysicians to adopt, ere they can possibly hope to attain the honours orthe wealth of the _Halfords_ and _Matons_ of the day! Our Moysant returnedto the study of his beloved belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, theSociety of the Jesuits was suppressed; and he was called by the King, in1763, to fill the chair of Rhetoric in one of the finest establishments ofthat body at Caen. He afterwards successively became perpetual Secretary ofthe Academy of Sciences, and Vice-President of the Society of Agriculture. He was next dubbed by the University, Dean of the faculty of arts, and wasselected to pronounce the public oration upon the marriage of theunfortunate Louis XVI. With Marie Antoinette. He was now a marked anddistinguished public character. The situation of PUBLIC LIBRARIAN was onlywanting to render his reputation complete, and _that_ he instantly obtainedupon the death of his predecessor. With these occupations, he united thatof instructing the English (who were always in the habit of visiting Caen, )in the French language; and he obtained, in return, from some of his adultpupils, a pretty good notion of the laws and liberties of Old England. 

The Revolution now came on: when, like many of his respectable brethren, hehailed it at first as the harbinger of national reformation and prosperity. But he had soon reason to find that he had been deceived. However, in thefervour of the moment, and upon the suppression of the monastic and otherpublic libraries, he received a very wide and unqualified commission tosearch all the libraries in the department of _Calvados_, and to bring hometo Caen all the treasures he might discover. He set forth upon this missionwith truly public spirited ideas: resolving (says his nephew) to do forNormandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had done for England--and a _MonasticumNeustriacum_ was the commendable object of his ambition. He promised much, and perhaps did more than he promised. His curious collection (exclusivelyof the cart-loads of books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to hiscountrymen; but the guillotine was now the order of the day--when Moysant"resolved to visit England, and submit to the English nobility the plan ofhis work, as that nation always attached importance to the preservation ofthe monuments, or literary materials, of the middle ages. "--He knew(continues the nephew) how proud the English were of their descent from theNorman nobles, and it was only to put them in possession of the means ofpreserving the unquestionable proofs of their origin. Moysant accordinglycame over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared emigrants;their return was interdicted; and our bibliomaniac learnt, withheart-rending regret, that they had resolved upon the sale of the nationalproperty in France. He was therefore to live by his wits; having spiritedlydeclined all offer of assistance from the English government. In thisdilemma he published a work entitled "_Bibliothèque des Ecrivains Français, ou choix des meilleurs morceaux en prose et en vers, extraits de leursouvrages_, "--a collection, which was formed with judgment, and which wasattended with complete success. The first edition was in four octavovolumes, in 1800; the second, in six volumes 1803; a third edition, Ithink, followed, with a pocket dictionary of the English and Frenchlanguages. It was during his stay amongst us that he was deservedlyadmitted a member of the Society of Antiquaries; but he returned to Francein 1802, before the appearance of the second edition of his _Bibliothèque_;when, hawk-like, soaring or sailing in suspense between thebook-atmospheres of Paris and Caen, he settled within the latter place--andagain perched himself (at the united call of his townsmen) upon the chairdestined for the PUBLIC LIBRARIAN! It was to give order, method, andfreedom of access, to the enormous mass of books, which the dissolution ofthe monastic libraries had caused to be accumulated at Caen, that Moysantand his colleagues now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as itwas unintermitting. But the health of our generalissimo, which had beenimpaired during his residence in England, began to give way beneath such apressure of fatigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence to prolong hislife till towards the close of the year 1813: when he had the satisfactionof viewing his folios, quartos, octavos, and duodecimos, arranged inregular succession, and fair array; when his work was honestly done; andwhen future visitors had only to stretch forth their hands and gather thefruit which he had placed within their reach. His death (we are told)[130]was gentle, and like unto sleep. Religion had consoled him in his lattermoments; and after having reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with perfectcomposure for the breathing of his last sigh! Let the name of MOYSANT bementioned with the bibliomaniacal honours which, are doubtless its due!... 

From Librarians, revert we to books: to the books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY ofCaen. The oldest printed volume contained in it, and which had been boundwith a MS, on the supposition of its being a manuscript also, isNumeister's impression of _Aretinus de Bella adversus Gothós_, 1470, folio;the first book from the press of the printer. I undeceived M. Hébert, whohad supposed it to be a MS. The lettering is covered with horn, and thebook is bound in boards; "all proper. " The oldest _Latin Bible_ theypossess, is of the date of 1485; but there is preserved one volume ofSweynheym and Pannartz's impression of _De Lyra's Commentary upon theBible_, of the date of 1471-2, which luckily contains the list of booksprinted by those printers in their memorable supplicatory letter to PopeSixtus IV. The earliest Latin Classic appears to be the _Juvenal_ of 1474, with the _Commentary of Calderinus_, printed at Rome; unless a datelessimpression of _Lucan_, in the earliest type of Gering, with the versesplaced at a considerable distance from each other, claim chronologicalprecedence. There is also a _Valerius Maximus_ of 1475, by Cæsaris andStol, but without their names. It is a large copy, soiled at the beginning. Of the same date is Gering's impression of the _Legenda Sanctorum_; andamong the Fifteeners I almost coveted a very elegant specimen of _Jehan duPré's_ printing (with a device used by him never before seen by me, ) of anedition of _La Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, in its original binding. Icollected, from the written catalogue, that they had only FORTY-FIVE worksprinted in the FIFTEENTH CENTURY; and of these, none were of first-ratequality. 

Among the MSS. , I was much struck with the beautiful penmanship of a work, in three folio volumes, of the middle of the sixteenth century, entitled;_Divertissemens touchant le faict de la guerre, extraits des livres dePolybe, Frontin, Vegece, Cornazzan, Machiavel, et autres bons autheurs. "_It has no illuminations, but the scription is beautiful. A _Breviary of theChurch Service of Lisieux_, of the fifteenth century, has some pretty butcommon illuminations. It is not however free from injury. Of more intrinsicworth is a MS. Entitled _Du Costentin_, (a district not far from Caen, )with the following prefix in the hand-writing of Moysant. "Ces mémoiressont de M. Toustaint de Billy, curé du Mesnil au-parc, qui avoit travaillétoute sa vie à l'histoire du Cotentin. Ils sont rares et m'ont été accordespar M. Jourdan, Notaire, auquel ils appartenoient. Le p. (Père) le Long etMons. Teriet de fontette ne les out pas connu. Moysantz. " It is a smallfolio, in a neat hand-writing. Another MS. , or rather a compound of ms. Andprinted leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio volumes, isentitled _Le Moreri des Normans, par Joseph Andrié Guiat de Rouen:_ on thereverse of the title, we read, "_Supplément au Dictionnaire de Moreri pource qui concerne la province de Normandie, et ses illustres_. " A shortpreface follows; then an ode "aux Grands Hommes de Normandie. " It isexecuted in the manner of a dictionary, running in alphabetical order. Thefirst volume extends to the letter I, and is illustrated with scraps fromnewspapers, and a few portraits. It is written pretty fully in doublecolumns. The portrait and biography of _Bouzard_ form an admirable specimenof biographical literary memoirs. The second volume goes to Z. The thirdvolume is entitled "_Les trois Siècles palinodiques, ou Histoire Généraledes Palinods de Rouen, Dieppe, &c. _--by the same hand, with an equalquantity of matter. It is right that such labours should be noticed, forthe sake of all future BLISS-like editors of provincial literature. Thereis another similar work, in 2 folio ms. Volumes, relating to _Coutance_. 

Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a later period, it may beright to inform you that the treasures of this Library suffered materiallyfrom the commotions of the Calvinists. Those hot-headed interpreters ofscripture destroyed every thing in the shape of ornament or eleganceattached to book-covers; and piles of volumes, however sacred, orunexceptionable on the score of good morals, were consigned to the fury ofthe flames. Of the remaining volumes which I saw, take the following veryrapid sketch. Of _Hours_, or _Church Services_, there is a prodigiouslyfine copy of an edition printed by _Vostre_, in 4to. , upon paper, withoutdate. It is in the original ornamented cover, or binding, with a forest ofrough edges to the leaves--and doubtless the finest copy of the kind I eversaw. Compared with this, how inferior, in every respect is a cropt copy of_Kerver's_ impression of a similar work, printed upon vellum! This latteris indeed a very indifferent book; but the rough usage it has met with isthe sole cause of such inferiority. I was well pleased with a fair, soundcopy of the _Speculum Stultorum_, in 4to. , bl. Letter, in hexameter andpentameter verses, without date. Nor did I examine without interest a rarelittle volume entitled "_Les Origines de quelques Coutumes anciennes, et deplusieurs façons de parler triviales. Avec un vieux Manuscrit en vers, touchant l'Origine des Chevaliers Bannerets_; printed at Caen in 1672, 12mo. : a curious little work. They have a fine (royal) copy of _Walton'sPolyglot_, with an excellent impression of the head; and a large paper copyof _Stephen's Greek Glossary_; in old vellum binding, with a great numberof ms. Notes by Bochart. Also a fine large paper _Photius_ of 1654, folio. But among their LARGE PAPERS, few volumes tower with greater magnificencethan do the three folios of _La Sainte Bible_, printed by the Elzevirs atAmsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine creatures; of the stateliestdimensions and most attractive forms. They also pretend that their largepaper copy of the first edition of _Huet's Praeparatio Evangelica_, infolio, is unique. Probably it is, as the author presented it to the Libraryhimself. The _Basil Eustathius_ of 1559, in 3 volumes folio, is as gloriousa copy as is Mr. Grenville's of the Roman edition of 1542. [131] It is inits pristine membranaceous attire--the vellum lapping over the fore-edges, in the manner of Mr. Heber's copy of the first Aldine Aristotle, --mostcomfortable to behold! There is a fine large paper copy of _Montaigne'sEssays_, 1635, folio, containing two titles and a portrait of the author. It is bound in red morocco, and considered by M. Hébert a most rare anddesirable book. Indeed I was told that one Collector in particular wasexceedingly anxious to obtain it. I saw a fine copy of the folio edition of_Ronsard_, printed in 1584, which is considered rare. There is also a copyof the well known _Liber Nanceidos_, from Bochart's library, with a few ms. Notes by Bochart himself. Here I saw, for the first time, a French metricalversion of the works of _Virgil, by Robert and Anthony Chevaliers d'Agneauxfreres, de Vire, en Normandie_; published at Paris in 1582, in elegantitalic type; considered rare. The same translators published a version ofHorace; but it is not here. You may remember that I made mention of acertain work (in one of my late letters) called _Les Vaudevires d'OlivierBasselin_. They preserve here a very choice copy of it, in 4to. , largepaper; and of which size only ten copies are said to be in existence. Theentire title is "_Les Vaudevires Poesies du XVme. Siècle, par OlivierBasselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie et des Notes pour l'explication dequelques anciens Mots: Vire, 1811_. " 8vo. There are copies upon pink paper, of which this is one--and which was in fact presented to the Library by theEditors. Prefixed to it, is an indifferent drawing, in india ink, representing the old castle of Vire, now nearly demolished, with Basselinseated at a table along with three of his boosing companions, chaunting hisverses "à pleine gorge. " This Basselin appears in short to have been theFrench DRUNKEN BARNABY of his day. 

"What! (say you:) "not _one_ single specimen from the library of yourfavourite DIANE DE POICTIERS? Can this be possible?"--No more ofinterrogatory, I beseech you: but listen attentively and gratefully to theintelligence which you are about to receive--and fancy not, if you have anyrespect for my taste, that I have forgotten my favourite Diane dePoictiers. On looking sharply about you, within this library, there will befound a magnificent copy of the _Commentaries of Chrysostom upon theEpistles of St. Paul_, printed by _Stephanus et Fratres a Sabio, atVerona_, in 1529, in three folio volumes. It is by much and by far thefinest Greek work which I ever saw from the _Sabii_ Press. [132] No wonderColbert jumped with avidity to obtain such a copy of it: for, bating thatit is "un peu rogné, " the condition and colour are quite enchanting. Andthen for the binding!--which either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, hadthe good sense and good taste to leave _untouched_. The first and secondvolumes are in reddish calf, with the royal arms in the centre, and thehalf moon (in tarnished silver) beneath: the arabesque ornaments, orsurrounding border is in gilt. The edges are gilt, stamped; flush with thefore edges of the binding. In the centre of the sides of the binding, is alarge H, with a fleur de lis at top: the top and bottom borders presentingthe usual D and H, united, of which you may take a peep in the_Bibliographical Decameron. _ The third volume is in dark blue leather, withthe same side ornaments; and the title of the work, as with the precedingvolumes, is lettered in Greek capitals. The H and crown, and monogram, asbefore; but the edges of the leaves are, in this volume, stamped at bottomand top with an H, surmounted by a crown. The sides of the binding are alsofuller and richer than in the preceding volumes. This magnificent copy wasgiven to the Library by P. Le Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way. 

Another specimen, if you please, from the library of our favourite Diana. It is rather of a singular character: consisting of a French version ofthat once extremely popular work (originally published in the Latinlanguage) called the _Cosmography of Sebastian Munster. _ The edition is ofthe date of 1556, in folio. This copy must have been as splendid as it isyet curious. It contains two portraits of Henry the Second ("HENRICVS II. GALLIARVM REX INVICTISS. PP. ") and four of Holofernes ("OLOFARNE. ") on eachside of the binding. In the centre of the sides we recognise the lunarornaments of Diane de Poictiers; but on the back, are five portraits ofher, in gilt, each within the bands--and, like all the other ornaments, much rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a different head of Henry. There are also on the sides two pretty medallions of a winged figureblowing a trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn by four horses: thereare also small fleur de lis scattered between the ornaments of the sides ofthe binding. The date of the medallion seems to be 1553. The copy iscruelly cropt, and the volume is sufficiently badly printed; which makes itthe more surprising that such pains should have been taken with itsbibliopegistic embellishments. Upon the whole, this copy, for the sake ofits ornaments, is vehemently desirable. 

And now, my dear friend, you must make your bow with me to M. Hébert, andbid farewell to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Caen. Indeed I am fully disposed tobid farewell to every thing else in the same town: not however withoutbeing conscious that very much, both of what I have, and of what I havenot, seen, merits a detail well calculated to please the intellectualappetites of travellers. What I have seen, has been indeed but summarily, and even superficially, described; but I have done my best; and was fearfulof exciting ennui by a more parish-register-like description. For theservice performed in places of public worship, I can add nothing to myRouen details--except that there is here an agreeable PROTESTANT CHURCH, ofwhich M. MARTIN ROLLIN, is the Pastor. He has just published a "_MémoireHistorique sur l'Etat Eclésiastique des Protestans François depuis FrançoisLer jusqu'à Louis XVIII_:" in a pamphlet of some fourscore pages. The taskwas equally delicate and difficult of execution; but having read it, I amfree to confess that M. Rollin has done his work very neatly and verycleverly. I went in company with Mrs. And Miss I---- to hear the authorpreach; for he is a young man (about thirty) who draws his congregation asmuch from his talents as a preacher, as from his moral worth as anindividual. It was on the occasion of several young ladies and gentlementaking the sacrament for the first time. The church is strictly, I believe, according to the Geneva persuasion; but there was something so comfortable, and to me so cheering, in the avowed doctrine of Protestantism, that Iaccompanied my friends with alacrity to the spot. Many English werepresent; for M. Rollin is deservedly a favourite with our countrymen. Thechurch, however, was scarcely half filled. The interior is the mostawkwardly adapted imaginable to the purposes either of reading or ofpreaching: for it consists of two aisles at right angles with each other. The desk and pulpit are fixed in the receding angle of their junction; sothat the voice flies forth to the right and left immediately as it escapesthe preacher. After a very long, and a very tediously sung psalm, M. Rollincommenced his discourse. He is an extemporaneous preacher. His voice issweet and clear, rather than sonorous and impressive; and he is perhaps, occasionally, too metaphorical in his composition. For the first time Iheard the words "_Oh Dieu!_" pronounced with great effect: but the sermonwas made up of better things than mere exclamations. M. Rollin wasfrequently ingenious; logical, and convincing; and his address to the youngcommunicants, towards the close of his discourse, was impressive andefficient. The young people were deeply touched by his powerful appeal, andI believe each countenance was suffused with tears. He guarded them againstthe dangers and temptations of that world upon which they were about toenter, by setting before them the consolations of the religion which theyhad professed, in a manner which indicated that he had really theirinterests and happiness at heart. 

A word only about COURTS OF JUSTICE. "A smack of the whip" will tingle inmy ears through life;[133] and I shall always attend "_Nisi Prius_"exhibitions with more than ordinary curiosity. I strolled one morning tothe _Place de Justice_--which is well situated, in an airy and respectableneighbourhood. I saw two or three barristers, en pleine costume, prettynearly in the English fashion; walking quickly to and fro with theirclients, in the open air before the hall; and could not help contrastingthe quick eye and unconcerned expression of countenance of the former, withthe simple look and yet earnest action of the latter. I entered the Hall, and, to my astonishment, heard only a low muttering sound. Scarcely fifteenpeople were present, I approached the bench; and what, think you, were theintellectual objects upon which my eye alighted? Three Judges ... All fastasleep! Five barristers, two of whom were nodding: one was literallyaddressing _the bench_ ... And the remaining two were talking to theirclients in the most unconcerned manner imaginable. The entire effect, on mymind, was ridiculous in the extreme. Far be it from me, however, todesignate the foregoing as a generally true picture of the administrationof Justice at Caen. I am induced to hope and believe that a place, so longcelebrated for the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to exhibitproofs of that logic and eloquence for which it has been renowned of old. Iam willing to conclude that all the judges are not alike somniferous; andthat if the acuteness of our GIFFORDS, and the rhetoric of our DENMANS, sometimes instruct and enliven the audience, there will be found Judges toargue like GIBBS and to decide like SCOTT. [134] Farewell. 

[121] _Mémoires de l'Academie des Belles Lettres de Caen. Chez Jacques Manoury, 1757, 4 vols. Crown 8vo. Rapport générale sur les travaux de l'Academie des Sciences, Arts, et Belles Lettres de la ville de Caen, jusqu'au premier Janvier, 1811. Par P. F. T. Delariviere, Secrétaire. A Caen, chez Chalopin_. An. 1811-15. 2 vols. On different paper, with different types, and provokingly of a larger form than its precursor. 

[122] [On consulting the Addenda of the preceding edition, it will be seen that this work appeared in the year 1820, under the title of _Essais Historiques sur la Ville de Caen et son Arondissement_, in 2 small octavo volumes. With the exception of two or three indifferent plates of relics of sculpture, and of titles with armorial bearings, this work is entirely divested of ornament. There are some useful historical details in it, taken from the examination of records and the public archives; but a HISTORY of CAEN is yet a desideratum. ]

[123] [By the favour of our common friend Mr. Douce, I have obtained permission to enrich these pages with the PORTRAIT of this distinguished Archaeologist, from an original Drawing in the possession of the same friend. See the OPPOSITE PLATE. ]

[124] He has recently (1816) published an octavo volume entitled "_Histoire des Polypiers, Coralligènes Flexibles, vulgairement nommés Zoophytes. Par J. V. F. Lamouroux_. From one of his Epistles, I subjoin a fac-simile of his autograph. 

 [Illustration: Lamouroux]

[125] The medallic project here alluded to is one which does both the projector, and the arts of France, infinite honour; and I sincerely wish that some second SIMON may rise up among ourselves to emulate, and if possible to surpass, the performances of GATTEAUX and AUDRIEU. The former is the artist to whom we are indebted for the medal of Malherbe, and the latter for the series of the Bonaparte medals. [Has my friend Mr. Hawkins, of the Museum, abandoned all thoughts of his magnificent project connected with such a NATIONAL WORK?]

[126] See post--under the running title Bayeux. 

[127] See page 172 ante. 

[128] It is described in the 2d vol. Of the ÆDES ALTHORPIANÆ; forming the Supplement to the BIBLIOTHECA SPENCERIANA: see page 94. 

[129] Goube, in his _Histoire du Duché de Normandie_, 1815, 8vo. Has devoted upwards of thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies; vol. Iii. P. 295. But in _Huet's Origines de la Ville de Caen;_ p. 491-652, there will be found much more copious and satisfactory details. 

[130] I am furnished with the above particulars from a _Notice Historique_ of Moysant. 

[131] [A copy of this Roman Edition of 1542, of equal purity and amplitude, is in the library of the Rev. Mr Hawtrey of Eton College: obtained of Messrs. Payne and Foss. ]

[132] When I was at Paris in the year 1819, I strove hard to obtain from Messrs. Debure the copy of this work, UPON VELLUM, which they had purchased at the sale of the Macarthy Library. But it was destined for the Royal Library, and is described in the _Cat. Des Livres Imp. Sur Vélin_, vol. I. P. 263. 

[133] [Twenty-eight years have passed away since I kept my terms at Lincoln's Inn with a view of being called to THE BAR; and at this moment I have a perfect recollection of the countenances and manner of Messrs. Bearcroft, Erskine, and Mingay, --the pitted champions of the King's Bench--whom I was in the repeated habit of attending within that bustling and ever agitated arena. Their wit, their repartee--the broad humour of Mingay, and the lightning-like quickness of Erskine, with the more caustic and authoritative dicta of Bearcroft--delighted and instructed me by turns. In the year 1797 I published, in one large chart, an _Analysis of the first volume of Blackstone's Commentaries_--called THE RIGHTS OF PERSONS. It was dedicated to Mr. (afterwards Lord) Erskine; and published, as will be easily conceived, with more zeal than discretion. I got out of the scrape by selling the copper plate for 50 shillings, after having given 40 guineas for the engraving of the Analysis. Some fifty copies of the work were sold, and 250 were struck off. Where the surplus have lain, and rotted, I cannot pretend to conjecture: but I know it to be a VERY RARE production!]

[134] [So in the preceding Edition. He who writes notes on his own performances after a lapse of ten years, will generally have something to add, and something to correct. Of the above names, the FIRST was afterwards attached to the _Master of the Rolls_, and to a _Peerage_: with the intervening honour of having been _Chief Justice of the Common Pleas_. My admiration of this rapid elevation in an honourable profession will not be called singular; for, after an acquaintance of twenty years with Lord Gifford, I can honestly say, that, while his reputation as a Lawyer, and his advancement in his profession, were only what his friends predicted, his character as a MAN continued the same:--kind hearted, unaffected, gentle, and generous. He died, 'ere he had attained his 48th year, in 1826. ]

LETTER XIV. 

BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF THECATHEDRAL. 

_Bayeux, May 16_, 1818. 

Two of the most gratifying days of my Tour have been spent at this place. The Cathedral (one of the most ancient religious places of worship inNormandy)[135] has been paced with a reverential step, and surveyed with acareful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood of Ducarel has made myheart beat with an increased action; and although this town be even dreary, as well as thinly peopled, there is that about it which, from associationsof ideas, can never fail to afford a lively interest to a Britishantiquary. 

The Diligence brought me here from Caen in about two hours and a half. Thecountry, during the whole route, is open, well cultivated, occasionallygently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. Many pretty littlechurches, with delicate spires, peeped out to the right and left during thejourney; but the first view of the CATHEDRAL of BAYEUX put all the othersout of my recollection. I was conveyed to the _Hôtel de Luxembourg_, thebest inn in the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. Minehostess is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman; perfectly mistress of the artand craft of innkeeping, and seems to have never known sorrow ordisappointment. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. Had, the preceding year, been occupied in making a fac-simile of the "famous tapestry" for ourSociety of Antiquaries, I enquired if mine hostess had been acquainted withthat gentleman: "Monsieur, " "je le connois bien; c'est un brave homme: ildemeura tout près: aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre diables!" I will notdisguise that this eulogy of our amiable countryman[136] pleased me "rightwell"--though I was pretty sure that such language was the current (and tome somewhat _coarse_) coin of compliment upon all occasions: and instead of"vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather in a gay and triumphant manner, "unebouteille du vin de Beaune"--"Ah! ça, " (replied the lively landlady, ) "vousle trouverez excellent, Monsieur, il n'y a pas du vin comme le vin deBeaune. " Bespeaking my dinner, I strolled towards the cathedral. 

There is, in fact, no proper approach to this interesting edifice. Thewestern end is suffocated with houses. Here stands the post-office; andwith the most unsuspecting frankness, on the part of the owner, I hadpermission to examine, with my own hands, within doors, every letter--underthe expectation that there were some for myself. Nor was I disappointed. But you must come with me to the cathedral: and of course we must entertogether at the western front. There are five porticos: the central onebeing rather large, and the two, on either side, comparatively small. Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures and ornaments; but theCalvinists in the sixteenth, and the Revolutionists in the eighteenthcentury, have contrived to render their present aspect mutilated andrepulsive in the extreme. On entering, I was struck with the two largetransverse Norman arches which bestride the area, or square, for the basesof the two towers. It is the boldest and finest piece of masonry in thewhole building. The interior disappointed me. It is plain, solid, anddivested of ornament. A very large wooden crucifix is placed over thescreen of the choir, which has an effect--of its kind: but the monuments, and mural ornaments, scarcely deserve mention. The richly ornamentedarches, on each side of the nave, springing from massive single pillars, have rather an imposing effect: above them are Gothic ornaments of a laterperiod, but too thickly and injudiciously applied. Let me now suppose thatthe dinner is over, and the "vin de Beaune" approved of--and that on asecond visit, immediately afterwards, there is both time and inclinationfor a leisurely survey. On looking up, upon entering, within the side aisleto the left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy greentint indicative of premature decay--arising from the lead (of that part ofthe roof, ) having been stript for the purpose of making bullets during theRevolution. The extreme length of the interior is about 320 English feet, by 76 high, and the same number of feet in width. The transepts are about125 feet long, by 36 wide. The western towers, to the very top of thespires, are about 250 English feet in height. 

One of the most curious objects in the Cathedral, is the CRYPT; of which, singularly enough, all knowledge had been long lost till the year 1412. Thecircumstance of its discovery is told in the following inscription, cut inthe Gothic letter, upon a brass plate, and placed just above the southernentrance:

 _En lan mil quatre cens et douze Tiers iour d'Auril que pluye arrouse Les biens de la terre, la journee Que la Pasques fut celebree Noble homme et Reverend Pere Jehan de Boissey, de'la Mere Eglise de Bayeux Pasteur Rendi l'ame a son Createur Et lors enfoissant la place Devant la grand Autel de grace Trova l'on la basse Chapelle Dont il n'avoit ete nouvelle Ou il est mis en sepulture Dieu ueuille avoir son ame en cure. Amen_. 

It was my good fortune to visit this crypt at a very particular juncture. The day after my arrival at Bayeux, there was a grand _Ordination_. BeforeI had quitted my bed, I heard the mellow and measured notes of humanvoices; and starting up, I saw an almost interminable procession ofpriests, deacons, &c. , walking singly behind each other, in two lines, leaving a considerable space between them. They walked bareheaded, chanting, with a book in their hands; and bent their course towards thecathedral. I dressed quickly; and, dispatching my breakfast with equalpromptitude, pursued the same route. On entering the western doors, thrownwide open, I shall never forget the effect produced by the crimson and bluedraperies of the Norman women:--a great number of whom were clustered, ingroups, upon the top of the screen, about the huge woodencrucifix;--witnessing the office of ordination going on below, in thechoir. They seemed to be suspended in the air; and considering the piece ofsculpture around which they appeared to gather themselves--with theelevation of the screen itself--it was a combination of objects upon whichthe pencil might have been exercised with the happiest possible result. Anordination in a foreign country, and especially one upon such an apparentlyextensive scale, was, to a professional man, not to be slighted; andaccordingly I determined upon making the most of the spectacle before me. Looking accidentally down my favourite crypt, I observed that somereligious ceremony was going on there. The northern grate, or entrance, being open, I descended a flight of steps, and quickly became an inmate ofthis subterraneous abode. The first object that struck me was, the warmglow of day light which darted upon the broad pink cross of the surplice ofan officiating priest: a candle was burning upon the altar, on each side ofhim: another priest, in a black vesture, officiated as an assistant; andeach, in turn, knelt, and bowed, and prayed ... To the admiration of somefew half dozen casual yet attentive visitors--while the full sonorouschant, from the voices of upwards of one hundred and fifty priests anddeacons, from the choir above, gave a peculiar sort of solemnity to themysterious gloom below. 

I now ascended; and by the help of a chair, took a peep at the ceremonythrough the intercolumniations of the choir: my diffidence, or ratherapprehension of refusal, having withheld me from striving to gainadmittance within the body. But my situation was a singularly good one:opposite the altar. I looked, and beheld this vast clerical congregation attimes kneeling, or standing, or sitting: partially, or wholly: while theswell of their voices, accompanied by the full intonations of the organ, and the yet more penetrating notes of the _serpent_, seemed to breathe morethan earthly solemnity around. The ceremony had now continued full twohours; when, in the midst of the most impressive part of it, and while theyoung candidates for ordination were prostrate before the high altar (thediapason stop of the organ, as at Dieppe, [137] sending forth the softestnotes) the venerable Bishop placed the glittering mitre (apparently coveredwith gold gauze) upon his head, and with a large gilt crosier in his righthand, descended, with a measured and majestic step, from the floor of thealtar, and proceeded to the execution of the more mysterious part of hisoffice. The candidates, with closed eyes, and outstretched hands, weretouched with the holy oil--and thus became consecrated. On rising, eachreceived a small piece of bread between the thumb and forefinger, and themiddle and third fingers; their hands being pressed together--and, stillwith closed eyes, they retired behind the high altar, where an officiatingpriest made use of the bread to rub off the holy oil. The Bishop is anelderly man, about three score and ten; he has the usual sallow tint of hiscountrymen, but his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath black andoverhanging eyebrows, is sharp and expressive. His whole mien has theindication of a well-bred and well-educated gentleman. When he descendedwith his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high altar, me-thought Isaw some of the venerable forms of our WYKEHAMS and WAYNEFLETES ofold--commanding the respect, and receiving the homage, of a gratefulcongregation! At the very moment my mind was deeply occupied by the effectsproduced from this magnificent spectacle, I strolled into _Our Lady'sChapel_, behind the choir, and beheld a sight which converted seriousnessinto surprise--bordering upon mirth. Above the altar of this remotelysituated chapel, stands the IMAGE OF THE VIRGIN with the infant Jesus inher arms. This is the usual chief ornament of Our Lady's Chapel. But whatdrapery for the mother of the sacred child!--stiff, starch, rectangularly-folded, white muslin, stuck about with diverse artificialflowers--like unto a shew figure in Brook Green Fair! This ridiculous andmost disgusting costume began more particularly at Caudebec. Why is itpersevered in? Why is it endured? The French have a quick sensibility, anda lively apprehension of what is beautiful and brilliant in the arts ofsculpture and painting ... But the terms "joli, " "gentil, " and "propre, "are made use of, like charity, to "cover a multitude of sins" ... Oraberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped a minute in this chapel, but proceeded to a side one, to the right, which yet affords proof of itspristine splendour. It is covered with gold and colours. Two or threesupplicants were kneeling before the crucifix, and appeared to be soabsorbed in their devotions as to be insensible of every surroundingobject. To them, the particular saint (I have forgotten the name) to whomthe little chapel was dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interestingthan the general voice of "praise and thanksgiving" with which the choir ofthe cathedral resounded. Before we quit the place you must know thatfourscore candidates were ordained: that there are sixty clergy attached tothe cathedral;[138] and that upwards of four hundred thousand souls areunder the spiritual cognizance of the BISHOP OF BAYEUX. The treasures ofthe Cathedral were once excessive, [139] and the episcopal stipendproportionably large: but, of late years, things are sadly changed. TheCalvinists, in the sixteenth century, began the work of havoc anddestruction; and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth, as usual, put thefinish to these devastations. At present, from a very respectable source ofinformation, I learn that the revenues of the Bishop scarcely exceed700_l_. Per annum of our own money. I cannot take leave of the cathedralwithout commending, in strong terms of admiration, the lofty flyingbuttresses of the exterior of the nave. The perpendicular portions arecrowned with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the semi-archtakes its spring; and are in much more elegant taste than any other part ofthe building. 

Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent EPISCOPAL PALACE. Uponthis palace the old writers dearly loved to expatiate. There is now howevernothing but a good large comfortable family mansion; sufficient for thepurposes of such hospitality and entertainment as the episcopal revenueswill afford. I have not only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence. In other words, my friend Pierre-Aimé Lair having promised to take his lastadieu of me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I met himagreeably to appointment at the palace; but his host, with a strong corpsof visitors, having just sate down to dinner--it was only one o'clock--Ibade him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop on the morrow--to whomhe had indeed mentioned my name. Our farewell was undoubtedly warm andsincere. He had volunteered a thousand acts of kindness towards me withoutany possible motive of self interest; and as he lifted up his right hand, exclaiming "adieu, pour toujours!" I will not dissemble that I was sensiblyaffected by the touching manner in which it was uttered ... And PIERRE AIMÉLAIR shall always claim from me the warmest wishes for his prosperity andhappiness. [140] I hurried back through the court-yard--at the risk oflosing a limb from the ferocious spring of a tremendous (chained)mastiff--and without returning the salute of the porter, shut the gateviolently, and departed. For five minutes, pacing the south side of thecathedral, I was lost in a variety of painful sensations. How was I to seethe LIBRARY?--where could I obtain a glimpse of the TAPESTRY?--and now, that Pierre Aimé Lair was to be no more seen, (for he told me he shouldquit the place on that same evening) who was to stand my friend, and smoothmy access to the more curious and coveted objects of antiquity?

Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflections, a tall figure, cladin a loose long great coat, in a very gracious manner approached andaddressed me. "Your name, Sir, is D----?" "At your service, Sir, that is myname. " "You were yesterday evening at Monsieur Pluquet's, purchasingbooks?" "I was, Sir. " "It seems you are very fond of old books, andespecially of those in the French and Latin languages?" "I am fond of oldbooks generally; but I now seek more particularly those in yourlanguage--and have been delighted with an illuminated, and apparentlycoeval, MS. Of the poetry of your famous OLIVIER BASSELIN, which... " "Yousaw it, Sir, at Monsieur Pluquet's. It belonged to a common friend of usboth. He thinks it worth... " "He asks _ten louis d'or_ for it, and he shallhave them with all my heart. " "Sir, I know he will never part with it evenfor that large sum. " I smiled, as he pronounced the word "large. " "Do methe honour, Sir, of visiting my obscure dwelling, in the country--a shortleague from hence. My abode is humble: in the midst of an orchard, which myfather planted: but I possess a few books, some of them curious, and shouldlike to _read_ double the number I _possess_. " I thanked the stranger forhis polite attention and gracious offer, which I accepted readily.... "Thisevening, Sir, if you please. " "With all my heart, this very evening. Buttell me, Sir, how can I obtain a sight of the CHAPTER LIBRARY, and of thefamous TAPESTRY?" "Speak softly, (resumed the unknown) for I am watched inthis place. You shall see both--but must not say that Monsieur ---- wasyour adviser or friend. For the present, farewell. I shall expect you inthe evening. " We took leave; and I returned hastily to the inn, to tell myadventures to my companion. 

There is something so charmingly mysterious in this little anecdote, that Iwould not for the world add a syllable of explanation. Leaving you, therefore, in full possession of it, to turn and twist it as you please, consider me as usual, Yours. 

[135] [Mons. Licquet supposes the crypt and the arcades of the nave to be of the latter end of the eleventh century, --built by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, and Brother of William the Conqueror; and that the other portions were of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries. I have very great doubts indeed of any portion being of a date even so early as 1170. ]

[136] [Another demonstration of the fickleness and changeableness of all mundane affairs. Mr. Stothard, after a successful execution of his great task, has ceased to be among us. His widow published his life, with an account of his labours, in a quarto volume in 1823. Mr. Stothard's _Monumental Effigies_, now on the eve of completion, is a work which will carry his name down to the latest posterity, as one of the most interesting, tasteful, and accurate of antiquarian productions. See a subsequent note. ]

[137] See page 12, ante. 

[138] ["That was true, when M. Dibdin wrote his account; now, the number must be reduced one half. " LICQUET, vol. Ii. P. 121. ]

[139] Cette église ... étoit sans contredit une des plus riches de Franceen vases d'or, d'argent, et de pierreries; en reliques et en ornemens. Le procès-verbal qui avoit été dressé de toutes ses richesses, en 1476, contient un détail qui va presque à l'infini. " Bezières, _Hist. Sommaire_, p. 51. 

[140] [But ONE letter has passed between us since this separation. That letter, however, only served to cement the friendliness of our feelings towards each other. M. Pierre Aimé Lair had heard of the manner in which his name had been introduced into these pages, and wished a copy of the work to be deposited in the public library at Caen. Whether it be so deposited, I have never learnt. In 1827, this amiable man visited England; and I saw him only during the time of an ordinary morning visit. His stay was necessarily short, and his residence was remote. I returned his visit--but he was away. There are few things in life more gratifying than the conviction of living in the grateful remembrance of the wise and the good; and THAT gratification it is doubtless my happiness to enjoy--as far as relates to Mons. PIERRE AIMÉ LAIR!]

LETTER XV. 

VISIT NEAR ST. LOUP. M. PLUQUET, APOTHECARY AND BOOK-VENDER. VISIT TO THEBISHOP. THE CHAPTER LIBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY. TRADE ANDMANUFACTURE. 

Well, my good friend! the stranger has been visited: his library inspected:his services accepted: and his character partly unfolded. To this I mustadd, in the joy of my heart, (as indeed I mentioned slightly in my last)that both the Chapter LIBRARY and the famous TAPESTRY have been exploredand examined in a manner, I trust, worthy of British curiosity. I hardlyknow what sort of order to adopt in this my second and last epistle fromBayeux; which will be semi-bibliomaniacal and semi-archaeological: and sitdown, almost at random, to impart such intelligence as my journal and mymemory supply. 

The last was almost a purely _ecclesiastical_ dispatch: as I generallyfirst take off my cap to the towers and turrets of a cathedral. Now thenfor THE STRANGER! ... For it would be cruel to prolong the agony ofexpectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied himself, almost exclusively, withhis pencil during the whole morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to_St. Loup_. After dinner we set out upon our expedition. It had rained inthe interim, and every tree was charged with moisture as we passed them ... Their blossoms exhaling sweets of the most pungent fragrance. The road ranin a straight line from the west front of the cathedral, which, on turninground, as we saw it irradiated by partial glimpses of sunshine, betweenmasses of dark clouds, assumed a very imposing and venerable aspect. Ishould tell you, however, that the obliging Monsieur ---- came himself tothe Hôtel de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his humble abode: for "humble" itis in every sense of the word. About two-thirds of the way thither, wepassed the little church of _St. Loup_: a perfect Gothic toy of the XIIthcentury--with the prettiest, best-proportioned tower that can beimagined. [141] It has a few slight clustered columns at the four angles, but its height and breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a whitish grey. We did not enter; and with difficulty could trace our way to examine theexterior through the high grass of the church yard, yet _laid_ with theheavy rain. What a gem would the pencil of BLORE make of this tiny, ancient, interesting edifice! At length we struck off, down a lane slipperywith moisture--when, opening a large swinging gate--"here (exclaimed ourguide)--lived and died my father, and here his son hopes to live and diealso. Gentlemen, yonder is my hermitage. " It was a retirement of the mostsecluded kind: absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-stacks, andcorn-stacks--for Monsieur ---- hath a fancy for farming as well as forreading. The stair-case, though constructed of good hard Norman stone, wasmuch worn in the middle from the frequent tread of half a century. It wasalso fatiguingly steep, but luckily it was short. We followed our guide tothe left, where, passing through one boudoir-like apartment, strewn withbooks and papers, and hung with a parcel of mean ornaments called_pictures_, we entered a second--of which portions of the wainscoat weretaken away, to shew the books which were deposited behind. Row after row, and pile upon pile, struck my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was opened--andthere again they were stowed, "thick and threefold. " A few small busts, andfractured vases, were meant to grace a table in the centre of the room. Ofthe books, it is but justice to say that _rarity_ had been sacrificed to_utility_. There were some excellent, choice, critical works; a good dealof Latin; some Greek, and a sprinkle of Hebrew--for Monsieur ---- is both ageneral and a sound scholar. On pointing to _Houbigant's Hebrew Bible_, infour folio volumes, 1753, "do you think this copy dear at fourteen francs?"said he!--"How, Sir, " (replied I, in an exstacy of astonishment)--you meanto say fourteen _louis_?" "Not at all, Sir. I purchased it at the pricejust mentioned, nor do I think it too dear at that sum"--resumed he, in themost unsuspecting manner. I then told him, as a sort of balsamicconsolation, that a late friend (I alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced ongiving £12. For a copy by no means superior. "Ah, le bon Dieu!.... " was hisonly observation thereupon. 

When about to return to the boudoir, through which we had entered, Iobserved with mingled surprise and pleasure, the four prettily executedEnglish prints, after the drawings of the present Lady Spencer, called"_New Shoes"--"Nice Supper_" &c. Monsieur ---- was pleased at my stoppingto survey them. "Ce sont là, Monsieur (observed he), les dames qui me fonttoujours compagnie:"--nor can you conceive the very soft and gentlemanlymanner, accompanied by a voice subdued even to sadness of tone, with whichhe made this, and almost every observation. I found, indeed, from the wholetenor of his discourse, that he had a mind in no ordinary a state ofcultivation: and on observing that a great portion of his library wasTHEOLOGICAL, I asked him respecting the general subjects upon which hethought and wrote. He caught hold of my left arm, and stooping (for he ismuch taller than myself, ... Which he easily may be, methinks I hear youadd... ) "Sir, said he, I am by profession a clergyman ... Although now I amdesignated as an _ex-Curé_. I have lived through the Revolution... And mayhave partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I should hope than ofits atrocities. In the general hue-and-cry for reform, I thought that ourchurch was capable of very great improvement, and I think so still. Thepart I took was influenced by conscientious motives, rather than by a blindand vehement love of reform;... But it has never been forgiven orforgotten. The established clergy of the place do not associate with me;but I care not a farthing for that--since I have here (pointing to hisbooks) the very best society in the world. It was from the persuasion ofthe clergy having a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I waswatched ... When walking near the precincts of the cathedral. I had beenseeking you during the whole of the office of ordination. " In reply to myquestion about his _archaeological_ researches, he said he was thenoccupied in writing a disquisition upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_, in which heshould prove that the Abbé de la Rue was wrong in considering it as aperformance of the XIIth century. "He is your great antiquarianoracle"--observed I. "He has an over-rated reputation"--replied he--"andbesides, he is too hypothetical. " Monsieur ---- promised to send me a copyof his dissertation, when printed; and then let our friend N---- be judge"in the matter of the Bayeux Tapestry. " From the open windows of thishermitage, into which the branches absolutely thrust themselves, I essayed, but in vain, to survey the surrounding country; and concluded a visit ofnearly two hours, in a manner the most gratifying imaginable to honestfeelings. A melancholy, mysterious air, seemed yet, however, to mark thisamiable stranger, which had not been quite cleared up by the account he hadgiven of himself. "Be assured (said he, at parting) that I will see youagain, and that every facility shall be afforded you in the examination ofthe Bayeux Tapestry. I have an uncle who is an efficient member of thecorporation. "

On my way homeward from this ramble, I called again upon M. Pluquet, anapothecary by profession, but a book lover and a book vender[142] in hisheart. The scene was rather singular. Below, was his _Pharmacopeia_; abovewere his bed-room and books; with a broken antique or two, in thecourt-yard, and in the passage leading to it. My first visit had beenhasty, and only as a whetter to the second. Yet I contrived to see from avisitor, who was present, the desirable MS. Of the vulgar poetry of OLIVIERBASSELIN, of which I made mention to M. ----. The same stranger was againpresent. We all quietly left the drugs below for drugs of a differentdescription above--books being called by the ancients, you know, the"MEDICINE OF THE SOUL. " We mounted into the bed-room. M. Pluquet now openedhis bibliomaniacal battery upon us. "Gentlemen you see, in this room, allthe treasures in the world I possess: my wife--my child--my books--myantiquities. "Yes, gentlemen, these are my treasures. I am enthusiastic, even to madness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter branchout; but my means are slender--and my aversion to my _business_ is justabout in proportion to my fondness for _books_. Examine, gentlemen, and tryyour fortunes. "

I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement: but alas! the treasures ofM. Pluquet were not of a nature quite to make one's fortune. I contrived, with great difficulty, to pick out something of a _recherché_ kind; andexpended a napoleon upon some scarce little grammatical tracts, chieflyGreek, printed by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil: among thelatter was the _Bellum grammaticale_ of E. Hessus. M. Pluquet wondered atmy rejecting the folios, and sticking so closely to the duodecimos; but hadhe shewn me a good _Verard Romance_ or a _Eustace Froissart_, he would havefound me as alert in running away with the one as the other. I think he isreally the most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen: certainly as aBibliopolist. We concluded a very animated conversation on all sides: andupon the whole, this was one of the most variously and satisfactorily spentdays of my "voyage bibliographique. "

On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M. ---- was with me betimes. Hesaid he had brought a _basket of books_, from his hermitage, which he hadleft at a friend's house, and he entreated me to come and examine them. Inthe mean while, I had had not only a peep at the Tapestry, but anintroduction to the mayor, who is chief magistrate for life: a very Cæsarin miniature. He received me stiffly, and appeared at first rather apriggish sort of a gentleman; observing that "my countryman, Mr. STOTHARD, [143] had been already there for six months, upon the same errand, and what could I want further?" A short reply served to convince him "thatit would be no abuse of an extended indulgence if he would allow anotherEnglish artist to make a fac-simile of a different description, from a verysmall portion only. "[144]

I now called upon the Abbé Fétit, with a view to gain admission to the_Chapter Library_, but he was from home--dining with the Bishop. Inconsequence, I went to the palace, and wrote a note in pencil to the Bishopat the porter's lodge, mentioning the name of M. Lair, and the object of myvisit. The porter observed that they had just sat down to dinner--but wouldI call at three? It seemed an age to that hour; but at length three o'clockcame, and I was punctual to the minute. I was immediately admitted into thepremises, and even the large mastiff seemed to know that I was not anunexpected visitor--for he neither growled, nor betrayed any symptoms ofuneasiness. In my way to the audience chamber I saw the crosier and robeswhich the Bishop had worn the preceding day, at the ceremony of ordination, lying picturesquely upon the table. The audience chamber was ratherelegant, adorned with Gobeleins tapestry, quite fresh, and tolerablyexpressive: and while my eyes were fastened upon two figures enacting theparts of an Arcadian shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came in andannounced the approach of MONSEIGNEUR l'EVEQUE. I rose in a trice to meethim, between doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop enteredwith a sort of body-guard; being surrounded by six or seven canons who hadbeen dining with him, and who peeped at me over his shoulder in a verysignificant manner. The flush of good cheer was visible in theircountenances--but for their Diocesan, I must say that he is even moreinteresting on a familiar view. He wore a close purple dress, buttoned downthe middle from top to bottom. A cross hung upon his breast. Hiscountenance had lost nothing of its expression by the absence of the mitre, and he was gracious even to loquacity. I am willing to hope that I wasequally prudent and brief in the specification of the object I had in view. My request was as promptly as it was courteously granted. "You will excusemy attending you in person; (said the Bishop) but I will instantly send forthe Abbé Fétit, who is our librarian; and who will have nothing to do butto wait upon you, and facilitate your researches. " He then dispatched amessenger for the Abbé Fétit, who quickly arrived with two more trottingafter him--and enlivened by the jingling music of the library keys, whichwere dangling from the Abbé's fingers, I quickened my steps towards theChapter Library. 

We were no sooner fairly within the library, than I requested my chiefconductor to give me a brief outline of its history. "Willingly" hereplied. "This library, the remains of a magnificent collection, of from30, to 40, 000 volumes, was originally placed in the Chapter-house, hard by. Look through the window to your left, and you will observe the ruins ofthat building. We have here about 5000 volumes: but the original collectionconsisted of the united libraries of defunct, and even of living, clergymen--for, during the revolution, the clergy, residing both in townand country, conveyed their libraries to the Chapter-house, as a protectionagainst private pillage. Well! in that same Chapter-house, the books, thuscollected, were piled one upon another, in layers, flat upon thefloor--reaching absolutely, to the cieling ... And for ten long years not acreature ventured to introduce a key into the library door. The windowsalso were rigidly kept shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead formusket balls, and they unroofed the chapter-house with their usualdexterity. Down came the rain upon the poor books, in consequence; and whenM. Moysant received the orders of government to examine this library, andto take away as many books as he wanted for the public library at Caen... He was absolutely horror-struck by the obstacles which presentedthemselves. From the close confinement of every door and window, for tenyears, the rank and fetid odour which issued, was intolerable. For a fullfortnight every door and window was left open for ventilation, ere M. Moysant could begin his work of selection. He selected about 5000 volumesonly; but the infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonlyplundered and destroyed a prodigious number of the remainder ... "et enfin(concluded he) vous voyez, Monsieur, ce qu'ils nous out laissé. " You willgive me credit for having listened to every word of such a tale. 

The present library, which is on the first floor, is apparently abouttwenty-five feet square. The Abbé made me observe the XIIIth. Volume of the_Gallia Christiana_, [145] in boards, remarking that "it was of excessiverarity;" but I doubt this. On shewing me the famous volume of _Sanctius_ or_Sanches de Matrimonio Sacramentario_, 1607, folio, the Abbéobserved--"that the author wrote it, standing with his bare feet uponmarble. " I was well pleased with a pretty _illuminated ms. Missal_, in alarge thick quarto volume, with borders and pictures in good condition; butdid not fail to commend right heartily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit ofM. Fétit in having kept concealed the second volume of _Gering's LatinBible_--being the first impression of the sacred text in France--when M. Moysant came armed with full powers to carry off what treasures he pleased. No one knows what has become of the first volume, but this second iscruelly imperfect--it is otherwise a fair copy. Upon the whole, although itis almost a matter of _conscience_, as well as of character, with me, toexamine every thing in the shape of a library, and especially of a publicone, yet it must be admitted that the collection under consideration ishardly worthy of a second visit: and accordingly I took both a first and afinal view of it. 

From the Chapter I went to the COLLEGE LIBRARY. In other words, there is afine public school, or Lycée, or college, where a great number of lads andyoung men are educated "according to art. " The building is extensive andwell-situated: the play-ground is large and commodious; and there is awell-cultivated garden "tempting with forbidden fruit. " Into this garden Istrolled in search of the President of the College, who was not withindoors. I found him in company with some of the masters, and with severalyoung men either playing, or about to play, at skittles. On communicatingthe object of my visit, he granted me an immediate passport to thelibrary--"mais, Monsieur, (added he) ce n'est rien: il y avoit autrefois_quelque chose_: maintenant, ce n'est qu'un amas de livres trèscommuns. " I thanked him, and accompanied the librarian to the Library;who absolutely apologized all the way for the little entertainment Ishould receive. There was indeed little enough. The room may be abouteighteen feet square. Of the books, a great portion was in vellumbindings, in wretched condition. Here was _Jay's Polyglot_, and thematrimonial _Sanctius_ again! There was a very respectable sprinkling of_Spanish and French Dictionaries_; some few not wholly undesirable_Alduses_; and the rare Louvain edition of _Sir Thomas More's Works_, printed in 1566, folio. [146] I saw too, with horror-mingled regret, afrightfully imperfect copy of the _Service of Bayeux Cathedral_, printedin the Gothic letter, UPON VELLUM. But the great curiosity is a smallbrass or bronze crucifix, about nine inches high, standing upon themantlepiece; very ancient, from the character of the crown, whichsavours of the latter period of Roman art--and which is the only crown, bereft of thorns, that I ever saw upon the head of our Saviour sorepresented. The eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass. Uponthe whole, as this is not a book, nor a fragment of an old illumination, I will say nothing more about its age. I was scarcely three quarters ofan hour in the library; but was fully sensible of the politeness of myattendant, and of the truth of his prediction, that I should receivelittle entertainment from an examination of the books. 

It is high time that you should be introduced in proper form to the famousBAYEUX TAPESTRY. Know then, in as few words as possible, that thiscelebrated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the INVASION OF ENGLAND byWILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, and the subsequent death of Harold at the battle ofHastings. It measures about 214 English feet in length, by about nineteeninches in width; and is supposed to have been worked under the particularsuperintendance and direction of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror. It wasformerly exclusively kept and exhibited in the Cathedral; but it is nowjustly retained in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most precious relicamong the archives of the city. There is indeed every reason to consider itas one of the most valuable historical monuments which France possesses. Ithas also given rise to a great deal of archaeological discussion. Montfaucon, Ducarel, and De La Rue, have come forward successively--butmore especially the first and last: and Montfaucon in particular hasfavoured the world with copper-plate representations of the whole. Montfaucon's plates are generally much too small: and the more enlargedones are too ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you should have anidea how this piece of tapestry is preserved, or rolled up. You see ithere, therefore, precisely as it appears after the person who shews it, takes off the cloth with which it is usually covered. 

[Illustration]

The first portion of the needle-work, representing the embassy of Harold, from Edward the Confessor to William Duke of Normandy, is comparativelymuch defaced--that is to say, the stitches are worn away, and little morethan the ground, or fine close linen cloth, remains. It is not far from thebeginning--and where the colour is fresh, and the stitches are, comparatively, preserved--that you observe the PORTRAIT OF HAROLD. [147]

You are to understand that the stitches, if they may be so called, arethreads laid side by side--and bound down at intervals by cross stitches, or fastenings--upon rather a fine linen cloth; and that the parts intendedto represent _flesh_ are left untouched by the needle. I obtained a fewstraggling shreds of the _worsted_ with which it is Worked. The colours aregenerally a faded or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last fivefeet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more decayed and imperfectstate than the first portion. But the designer of the subject, whoever hewas, had an eye throughout to Roman art--as it appeared in its laterstages. The folds of the draperies, and the proportions of the figures, areexecuted with this feeling. 

I must observe that, both at top and at bottom of the principal subject, there is a running allegorical ornament;[148] of which I will not incur thepresumption to suppose myself a successful interpreter. The constellations, and the symbols of agriculture and of rural occupation, form the chiefsubjects of this running ornament. All the inscriptions are executed incapital letters of about an inch in length; and upon the whole, whetherthis extraordinary and invaluable relic be of the latter end of the XIth, or of the beginning or middle of the XIIth century[149] seems to me amatter of rather a secondary consideration. That it is at once _unique_ andimportant, must be considered as a position to be neither doubted nordenied, I have learnt, even here, of what importance this tapestry-roll wasconsidered in the time of Bonaparte's threatened invasion of our country:and that, after displaying it at Paris for two or three months, to awakenthe curiosity and excite the love of conquest among the citizens, it wasconveyed to one or two _sea-port_ towns, and exhibited upon the stage as amost important _materiel_ in dramatic effect. [150]

I think you have now had a pretty good share of Bayeux intelligence; onlythat I ought not to close my despatches without a word or two relating tohabits, manners, trade, and population. This will scarcely occupy a page. The men and women here are thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plumpcountenances, wooden shoes, and the cauchoise--even to exceedingly _tallcopies_ of the latter! The population may run hard upon ten thousand. Thechief articles of commerce are _butter_ and _lace_. Of the former, thereare two sorts: one, delicate and well flavoured, is made during winter andspring; put up into small pots, and carried from hence in huge paniers, notonly to all the immediately adjacent parts of the country, but even toParis--and is shipped in large quantities for the colonies. They have madeas much as 120, 000 lb. Weight each season; but _Isigny_, a neighbouringvillage, is rather the chief place for its production. The other sort ofbutter, which is eaten by the common people, and which in fact is madethroughout the whole of Lower Normandy, (the very butter, in short, inwhich the huge _alose_ was floating in the pot of the lively cuisiniere atDuclair[151]) is also chiefly made at Isigny; but instead of a delicatetint, and a fine flavour, it is very much the contrary: and the mode ofmaking and transporting it accords with its qualities. It is salted, andpacked in large pots, and even barrels, for the sake of exportation; andnot less than 50, 000 lb. Weight is made each week. The whole profit arisingfrom butter has been estimated at not less than two millions of francs: addto which, the circulation of specie kept up by the payment of the workmen, and the purchase of salt. As to _lace_, there are scarcely fewer than threethousand females constantly employed in the manufacture of that article. 

The mechanics here, at least some of them, are equally civil and ingenious. In a shop, in the high or principal street, I saw an active carpenter, whohad lost the fore finger of his right hand, hard at work--alternatelywhistling and singing--over a pretty piece of ornamental furniture in wood. It was the full face of a female, with closely curled hair over theforehead, surmounted by a wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace, and platted hair. The whole was carved in beech, and the form andexpression of the countenance were equally correct and pleasing. This merryfellow had a man or two under him, but he worked double tides, comparedwith his dependants. I interrupted him singing a French air, perfectlycharacteristic of the taste of his country. The title and song were thus:

 TOU JOURS. 

 TOUJOURS, toujours, je te serai fidèle; Disait Adolphe à chaque instant du jour; Toujours, toujours je t'aimerai, ma belle, Je veux le dire aux échos d'alentour; Je graverai sur l'écorce d'un hètre, Ce doux serment que le dieu des amours, Vient me dieter, en me faisant connaître; Que mon bonheur est de t'aimer toujours. _Bis_. 

 Toujours, toujours, lui répondit Adèle, Tu régneras dans le fond de mon coeur; Toujours, toujours, comme une tourterelle, Je promets bien t'aimer avec ardeur; Je pense à toi quand le soleil se lève, J'y pense encore à la tin de son cours; Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je reve, C'est au bonheur de te chérir toujours. 

He was a carver on wainscoat wood: and if I would give myself "la peined'entrer, " he would shew me all sorts of curiosities. I secured afavourable reception, by purchasing the little ornament upon which he wasat work--for a napoleon. I followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant asoldier in Bonaparte's campaigns, from whence he dated the loss of hisfinger) through a variety of intricate passages below and up stairs; andsaw, above, several excellently well finished pieces of furniture, fordrawers or clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood:--the outsides of which werecarved sometimes with clustered roses, surrounding a pair of fond doves; orwith representations of Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and the various_emblemata_ of the tender passion. They would have reminded you of the oldpieces of furniture which you found in your grandfather's mansion, upontaking possession of your estate: and indeed are of themselves nodespicable ornaments in their way. I was asked from eight to twelvenapoleons for one of these pieces of massive and elaborately carvedfurniture, some six or seven feet in height. 

In all other respects, this is a town deserving of greater antiquarianresearch than appears to have been bestowed upon it; and I cannot helpthinking that its ancient ecclesiastical history is more interesting thanis generally imagined. In former days the discipline and influence of itsSee seem to have been felt and acknowledged throughout nearly the whole ofNormandy. Adieu. In imagination, the spires of COUTANCES CATHEDRAL begin topeep in the horizon. 

[141] [Mr. Cotman has an excellent engraving of it. ]

[142] He has since established himself at Paris, near the Luxembourg palace, as a _bookseller_; and it is scarcely three months since I received a letter from him, in which he told me that he could no longer resist the more powerful impulses of his heart--and that the phials of physic were at length abandoned for the volumes of Verard and of Gourmont. My friend, Mr. Dawson Turner, who knew him at Bayeux, has purchased books of him at Paris. [The preceding in 1820. ]

[143] Mr. Stothard, Jun. See page 221 ante. Mr. S's own account of the tapestry may be seen in the XIXth volume of the Archæologia. It is brief, perspicuous, and satisfactory. His fac-simile is one half the size of the original; executed with great neatness and fidelity; but probably the touches are a _little_ too artist-like or masterly. 

[144] [The facsimile of that portion of the tapestry which is supposed to be a portrait of Harold, and which Mr. Lewis, who travelled with me, executed, is perhaps of its kind, one of the most perfect things extant. In saying this, I only deliver the opinions of very many competent judges. It must however be noticed, that the Society of Antiquaries published the whole series of this exceedingly curious and ancient Representation of the Conquest of our Country by William I. Of this publication, the figures measure about four inches in height: but there is also a complete, and exceedingly successful fac-simile of the first two figures of this series--of the size of the originals (William I. And the Messenger coming to announce to him the landing of Harold in England) also published from the same quarter. The whole of these Drawings were from the pencil of the late ingenious and justly lamented THOS. STOTHARD, Esq. Draftsman to the Society of Antiquaries. ]

[145] A complete copy is of rarity in our own country, but not so abroad. It is yet, however, an imperfect work. 

[146] There have been bibliographers, and there are yet knowing book-collectors, who covet this edition in preference to the Leipsic impression of Sir T. More's Works of 1698; in folio. But this must proceed from sheer obstinacy; or rather, perhaps, from ignorance that the latter edition contains the _Utopia_--whereas in the former it is unaccountably omitted to be reprinted--which it might have been, from various previous editions. 

[147] This figure is introduced with pursuivants and dogs: but great liberties, as a nice eye will readily discern, have been taken by Montfaucon, when compared with the original--of which the fac-simile, in the previous edition of this work, may be pronounced to be PERFECT. 

[148] Something similar may be seen round the border of the baptismal vase of St. Louis, in Millin's _Antiquités Nationales_. A part of the border in the Tapestry is a representation of subjects from Aesop's Fables. 

[149] Of a monument, which has been pronounced by one of our ablest antiquaries to be "THE NOBLEST IN THE WORLD RELATING TO OUR OLD ENGLISH HISTORY, " (See _Stukely's Palæog. Britan. _ Number XI. 1746, 4to. P. 2-3) it may be expected that some archæological discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess that, after the essays of Messrs. Gurney, Stothard, and Amyot, (and more especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter--as to the period of its execution--may be considered as well nigh, if not wholly, at rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XIXth volumes of the Archæologia. The Abbé de la Rue contended that this Tapestry was worked in the time of the second Matilda, or the Empress Maud, which would bring it to the earlier part of the XIIth century. The antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater probability, that it is a performance of the period which it professes to commemorate; namely, of the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings, and consequently of the acquiring of the Crown of England, by conquest, on the part of William. This latter therefore brings it to the period of about 1066, to 1088--so that, after all, the difference of opinion is only whether this Tapestry be fifty years older or younger, than the respective advocates contend. 

 But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the most satisfactory, disquisition upon the date of this singular historical monument, is entitled, "_A Defence of the early Antiquity of the Bayeux Tapestry_, " by Thomas Amyot, Esq. Immediately following Mr. Stothard's communication, in the work just referred to. It is at direct issue with all the hypotheses of the Abbé de la Rue, and in my opinion the results are triumphantly established. Whether the _Normans_ or the _English_ worked it, is perfectly a secondary consideration. The chief objections, taken by the Abbé, against its being a production of the XIth century, consist in, first, its not being mentioned among the treasures possessed by the Conqueror at his decease:--secondly, that, if the Tapestry were deposited in the church, it must have suffered, if not have been annihilated, at the storming of Bayeux and the destruction of the Cathedral by fire in the reign of Henry I. , A. D. 1106:--thirdly, the silence of _Wace_ upon the subject, --who wrote his metrical histories nearly a century after the Tapestry is supposed to have been executed. " The latter is chiefly insisted upon by the learned Abbé; who, which ever champion come off victorious in this archæological warfare, must at any rate receive the best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical and erudite manner in which he has conducted his attacks. 

 At the first blush it cannot fail to strike us that the Abbé de la Rue's positions are all of a _negative_ character; and that, according to the strict rules of logic, it must not be admitted, that because such and such writers have _not_ noticed a circumstance, therefore that circumstance or event cannot have taken place. The first two grounds of objection have, I think, been fairly set aside by Mr. Amyot. As to the third objection, Mr. A. Remarks--"But it seems that Wace has not only _not_ quoted the tapestry, but has varied from it in a manner which proves that he had never seen it. The instances given of this variation are, however, a little unfortunate. The first of them is very unimportant, for the difference merely consists in placing a figure at the _stern_ instead of the _prow_ of a ship, and in giving him a bow instead of a trumpet. From an authority quoted by the Abbé himself, it appears that, with regard to this latter fact, the Tapestry was right, and Wace was wrong; and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in favour of the superior antiquity of the Tapestry. The second instance of variation, namely, that relating to Taillefer's sword, may be easily dismissed; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr. Stothard's examination, that neither Taillefer nor his sword is to be found in the Tapestry, " &c. But it is chiefly from the names of ÆLFGYVA and WADARD, inscribed over some of the figures, that I apprehend the conclusion in favour of the Tapestry's being nearly a contemporaneous production, may be safely drawn. 

 It is quite clear that these names belong to persons living when the work was in progress, or within the recollection of the workers, and that they were attached to persons of some particular note or celebrity, or rather perhaps of _local_ importance. An eyewitness, or a contemporary only would have introduced them. They would not have lived in the memory of a person, whether mechanic or historian, who lived a _century_ after the event. No antiquary has yet fairly appropriated these names, and more especially the second. It follows therefore that they would not have been introduced had they not been in existence at the time; and in confirmation of that of WADARD, it seems that Mr. Henry Ellis (Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries) "confirmed Mr. Amyot's conjecture on that subject, by the references with which he furnished him to _Domesday Book_, where his name occurs in no less than six counties, as holding lands of large extent under _Odo_, Bishop of Bayeux, the tenant in capite of those properties from the crown. That he was not a _guard_ or _centinel, _ as the Abbé de la Rue supposes, but that he held an _office of rank_ in the household of either William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a doubt. " Mr. Amyot thus spiritedly concludes:--alluding to the successful completion of Mr. Stothard's copy of the entire original roll. --"Yet if the BAYEUX TAPESTRY be not history of the first class, it is perhaps something better. It exhibits general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of the costume and manners of that age, which, of all others, if we except the period of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting to us;--that age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with them new landholders, new laws, and almost a new language. "

 Mr. Amyot has subjoined a specimen of his own poetical powers in describing "the Minstrel TAILLEFER'S achievements, " in the battle of Hastings, from the old Norman lays of GAIMAR and WACE. I can only find room for the first few verses. The poem is entitled, THE ONSET OF TAILLEFER. 

 Foremost in the bands of France, Arm'd with hauberk and with lance, And helmet glittering in the air, As if a warrior knight he were, Rush'd forth the MINSTREL TAILLEFER Borne on his courser swift and strong, He gaily bounded o'er the plain, And raised the heart-inspiring song (Loud echoed by the warlike throng) Of _Roland_ and of _Charlemagne_, Of _Oliver_, brave peer of old, Untaught to fly, unknown to yield, And many a Knight and Vassal bold, Whose hallowed blood, in crimson flood, Dyed _Roncevalle's_ field. 

[150] M. Denon told me, in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by the commands of Bonaparte, he was charged with the custody of this Tapestry for three months; that it was displayed in due form and ceremony in the Museum; and that after having taken a hasty sketch of it, (which he admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he returned it to Bayeux--as it was considered to be the peculiar property of that place. 

[151] See p. 109 ante. 

LETTER XVI. 

BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. ST. LO. THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES. ENVIRONS. AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE CLERGY. 

I send you this despatch close to the very Cathedral, whose spires, whileyet at Bayeux, were already glimmering in the horizon of my imagination. The journey hither has been in every respect the most beautiful andinteresting that I have experienced on _this_ side the Seine. I have seensomething like undulating pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering streams, and well-peopled villages; and an air of gaiety and cheerfulness, as wellas the charm of picturesque beauty, has accompanied me from one cathedralto the other. 

I left the _Hôtel de Luxembourg_, at Bayeux, in a hired cabriolet with apair of horses, about five in the afternoon, pushing on, at a smart trot, for ST. LO: which latter place I entered by moon-light. The road, as usual, was broad and bold, and at times undulating; flanked by beech, elm, andfir. As I just observed to you, I entered St. Lo by moon-light: the doubletowers of the great cathedral-like looking church having a grand and evenromantic effect on approaching the town. An old castle, or rather a mereround-tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering it. Passingthe porch, or west end of the church, sometimes descending, at othersascending--midst close streets and overhanging roofs of houses, which casta deep and solemn shadow, so as to shut out the moon beams for severalhundred yards--and pursuing a winding route, I at length stopped at thedoor of the principal hôtel--_au Grand Coq!_ I laughed heartily when Iheard its name; for with the strictest adherence to truth the adjectiveought to have been _petit!_

However, the beds seemed to be in good order, and the coffee, with which Iwas quickly served, proved to be excellent. I strolled out, on a_reconnoissance_, about half-past nine; but owing to the deep shadows fromthe moon, arising from the narrowness of the streets, I could make outnothing satisfactory of the locale. The church, however, promised a richtreat on the morrow. As soon as the morrow came, I betook myself to thechurch. It was Sunday morning. The square, before the west front of thechurch, was the rendezvous both of townsmen and countryfolks: but what wasmy astonishment on observing in one corner of it, a quack doctor vendingpowder for the effectual _polishing of metals_. He had just beaten hisdrum, in order to collect his audience; and having got a good assemblage, was full of the virtues of his wares--which were pronounced to be also"equally efficacious for _complaints in the stomach!_"

This man had been preceded, in the situation which he occupied, by a rivalcharlatan, on horseback, with _powders to kill rats_. The latter stood uponthe same eminence, wearing a hat, jacket, and trowsers, all white--uponwhich were painted _black rats_ of every size and description; and in hisharangue to the populace he took care to tell them that the rats, paintedupon his dress, were _exact portraits_ of those which had been destroyed bymeans of his powders! This, too, on a Sunday morning. But rememberDieppe. [152]

Having despatched my breakfast, I proceeded to survey the church, fromwhich the town takes its name. First, for the exterior. The _attached_towers demand attention and admiration. They are so slightly attached as tobe almost separated from the body or nave; forming something of thatparticular character which obtains more decidedly at the cathedral ofCoutances. I am not sure whether this portion of the church at St. Lo benot preferable, on the score of regularity and delicacy, to the similarportion at this latter place. The west front is indeed its chief beauty ofexterior attraction; and it was once rendered doubly interesting by aprofusion of alto-rilievo statues, which _disappeared_ during thecommotions of the revolution. You ascend rather a lofty flight of steps tothis entrance; and into which the whole town seemed to be pouring the fulltide of its population. I suffered myself to be carried away along, withthe rest, and almost startled as I entered the nave. [153] To the left, is ahorribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the child in her arms. Thecountenance is even as ugly, old, and repulsive, as the colouring is mostdespicable. I never saw such a daub: and what emotions, connected withtenderness of feeling, or ardour of devotion, can the contemplation of suchan object excite? Surely the parish must have lost its wits, as well as itstaste, to endure such a monstrous exhibition of art. 

As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the verysingular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the pillars andarches which sustain the roof. These pillars have _no capitals_, and thearch springs from them in the most abrupt manner. The arch itself is alsovery short and sharp pointed; like the tops of lancet windows. This modeobtains pretty generally here; but it should be noted that, in the rightside aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also inthe row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way betweenthe walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church. Nor am I surethat, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicularlines have either meaning or effect. Whether St. Lo were the _first_ churchupon which the architect, who built both _that_ and the cathedral at_Coutances_, tried his talents--or whether, indeed, both churches be theeffort of the same hand--I cannot pretend to determine; but, both outwardlyand inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other. Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo isclosely blocked up by surrounding houses. 

I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavymachine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to this place. Thereare some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments likethose of the XVIth century, in our own country. But on quitting the town, in the road to Coutances, --after you come to what are called the old castlewalls, on passing the outer gate--your eye is struck by rather anextraordinary combination of objects. The town itself seems to be builtupon a rock. Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron;while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful andfruitful river _Aure_. [154] The country immediately around abounds inverdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon the whole, our sortiefrom St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremelycheerful and gratifying. 

A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of theuncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and of ratherrespectable appearance, wanted springs: but the increasing beauty of thecountry, kept my attention perfectly occupied, till the beautifulcathedral, of COUTANCES caught my notice, on an elevated ground, to theleft. The situation is truly striking, gaze from what quarter you will. From that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered veryinteresting from the broad _route royale_, lined with birch, hazel, andbeech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers ofthe cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while the wholelandscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, andanimated by the increasing numbers and activity of the _paysannes_ and_bourgeoises_ mingling in their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark _blues_and _crimsons_ were put on upon the occasion; and nought but peace, tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides. It was ascene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds--worthy of beingcopied-by the pencil of Claude. 

We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postilion, flourishing his whip, and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon anascent, drove to the chief inn, the _Hôtel d'Angleterre_, within about onehundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall notreadily forget the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, fromthe north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass. There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics--thusreturning from vespers to their respective homes; or rather to the College, or great clerical establishment, in the neighbourhood. This College, whichhas suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution andBonaparte's dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a verydistinguished and commanding manner. It was a singular sight--to see such acrowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands withwhite edging! The women were all out in the streets; sitting before theirdoors, or quietly lounging or walking. The afternoon was indeed unusuallyserene. 

I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral. It was impossibleto visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation had departed; anda fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direction. As I lookedaround, I could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of thecolumns round the choir: or rather of the double aisle between the choirand the walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked. For awonder, an _unpainted_ Virgin and child in Our Lady's chapel, behind thechoir! There is nothing, I think, in the interior of this church thatmerits particular notice and commendation, except it be somebeautifully-stained glass windows; with the arms, however, of certain noblefamilies, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated. There is a deepwell in the north transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire. The pulpit is large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux. The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the thirteenth century is aperiod sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior ofthis church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbé de laRue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tancred King of Sicily atthe end of the eleventh, or at the beginning of the twelfth century. 

The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction. [155]Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, asfar as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. My great object was tomount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containingfine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificentpanorama. Another story, one half the height of the present erection fromthe roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower ofNOTRE DAME at COUTANCES. As I ascended this central tower, I digressedoccasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, wassomewhat terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten, green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?--which arose here, as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution)to make _bullets_--and from the rain's penetrating the interior inconsequence. As I continued to ascend, I looked through the apertures tonotice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windowsof the western towers: and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful andmagical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length I reached thesummit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed around. 

The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four miles of thesea, so that to the west and south there appeared an immense expanse ofocean. On the opposite points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded, undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. _Jersey_ appearedto the north-west, quite encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south, stood out the bold insulated little rock of _Granville_, defying theeternal washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to beseen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with whichI am acquainted. The sun was now declining apace, which gave a wanner glowto the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape. It is impossible toparticularize. All was exquisitely refreshing and joyous. The heart beatswith a fuller pulsation as the eye darts over such an expansive andexhilarating scene! Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured vesture:and a prospect of a fine summer and an abundant harvest infused additionaldelight into the beholder. Immediately below, stood the insulated andrespectable mansion or Palace of _the Bishop_; in the midst of a formalgarden--begirt with yet more formally clipt hedges. As the Prelate bore agood character, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which containedan inhabitant capable of administering so much good to the community. Inshort, I shall always remember the view from the top of the central towerof the cathedral of Coutances!

I quitted such a spot with reluctance; but time was flying away, and thepatience of the cuisinier at the Hôtel d'Angleterre had already been putsomewhat to the test. In twenty minutes I sat down to my dinner, in abed-room, of which the furniture was chiefly of green silk. The females, even in the humblest walks, have generally fine names; and _Victorina_ wasthat of the fille de chambre at the Hôtel d'Angleterre. After dinner Iwalked upon what may be called the heights of Coutances; and a moredelightful evening's walk I never enjoyed. The women of everydescription--ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids--were all abroad;either sitting upon benches, or standing in gossiping groups, or strayingin friendly pairs. The comeliness of the women was remarkable; a certainfreshness of tint, and prevalence of the embonpoint, reminded me of thoseof our own country; and among the latter, I startled--as I gazed upon acountenance which afforded but too vivid a resemblance to that of adeceased relation! Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely andinteresting than they are at Coutances. 

The immediate environs of this place are beautiful and interesting: visitthem in what direction you please. But there is nothing which soimmediately strikes you as the remains of an _ancient Aqueduct_; gothicisedat the hither end, but with three or four circular arches at the furtherextremity, where it springs from the opposite banks. Fine as was yesterday, this day has not been inferior to it. I was of course glad of anopportunity of visiting the market, and of mingling with the countrypeople. The boulevards afforded an opportunity of accomplishing both theseobjects. Corn is a great article of trade; and they have noble granariesfor depositing it. Apparently there is a great conflux of people, and muchbusiness stirring. I quickly perceived, in the midst of this ever-movingthrong, my old friend the vender of rat-destroying powders--busied in theexercise of his calling, and covered with his usual vestment of white, spotted or painted with black rats. He found plenty of hearers and plentyof purchasers. All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a man cameforward to the edge of a bank--below which a great concourse was assembled. He beat a drum, to announce that a packet boat, would sail to Jersey in thecourse of the afternoon; but the people seemed too intent upon theiroccupations and gambols to attend to him. I sat upon a bench and read oneof the little chap books--_Richard sans peur_--which I had purchased thesame morning. 

While absorbed in reflections upon the heterogeneous scene before me--andwishing, for some of my dearest friends in England to be also spectators ofit--the notes of an hand-organ more and more distinctly stole upon my ear. They were soft; and even pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed thatthe musician preceded a person, who carried aloft a Virgin, with the infantJesus, in wax; and who, under such a sign, exhorted the multitude toapproach and buy his book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred a_Roxburgher_ to remain quiet on the bench: and accordingly starting up, andextending two sous, I became the fortunate purchaser of a little _chap_article--of which my friend BERNARDO will for ever, I fear, envy me thepossession! The vender of the tome sang through his nose, as the organwarbled the following

 _Cantique Spirituelle_. 

 EN L'HONNEUR DU TRÈS-SAINT SACREMENT, _Qui est exposé dans la grande Eglise cathédrale de St. Pierre et St. Paul de Rome, pour implorer la miséricorde de Dieu_. 

 Air: du Théodore Français. 

 APPROCHEZ-VOUS, Chrétiens fidèles, Afin d'entendre réciter: Ecoutez tous avec un grand zèle, Avec ferveur et piété, Le voeu que nous avons fait, D'aller au grand Saint Jacques; Grace à Dieu nous l'avons accompli, Pour l'amour de Jésus Christ. 

 Dieu créa le ciel et la terre, Les astres et le firmament; Il fit la brillante lumière, Ainsi que tous les autres élémens, Il a tiré tout du néant, Ce qui respire sur la terre: Rendons hommage à la grandeur De notre divin Créateur. 

 [156]Tous les jours la malice augmente, Il y a très-peu de religion; La jeunesse est trop petulante, Les enfans jurent le saint Nom. Et comment s'étonneroit-on Si tant de fléaux nous tourmentent? Et si l'on voit tant de malheurs, C'est Dieu qui punit les pécheurs. 

 Souvent on assiste à l'Office, C'est comme une manière d'acquit, Sans penser au saint Sacrifice; Ou s'est immolé Jesus Christ. On parle avec ses amis, De ses affaires temporelles, Sans faire aucune attention Aux mystères de la religion. 

 Réfléchissez bien, pères et mères, Sur ces morales et vérités: C'est la loi de Dieu notre Père; C'est lui qui nous les a dictées: Il faut les suivre et les pratiquer, Tant que nous serons sur la terre. N'oublions point qu'après la mort, Nos ames existeront encore. 

The day was beginning to wear away fast, and I had not yet accomplished thefavourite and indispensable object of visiting the PUBLIC LIBRARY. I madetwo unsuccessful attempts; but the third was fortunate. I had no letter ofintroduction, and every body was busied in receiving the visits of theircountry friends. I was much indebted to the polite attention of a stranger:who accompanied me to the house of the public librarian, his friend, who, not being at home, undertook the office of shewing me the books. The roomin which they are contained--wholly detached--and indeed at a considerabledistance from the cathedral--is about sixty English feet long, low, andrather narrow. It is absolutely crammed with books, in the most shamefulstate of confusion. I saw, for the first time in Normandy, and withabsolute gladness of heart, a copy of the _Complutensian Polyglot Bible_;of which the four latter volumes, in vellum binding, were tall and good:the earlier ones, in calf, not so desirable. For the first time too, sincetreading Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of _Italian_ books. But the collection stands in dreadful need of weeding. Indeed, thisobservation may apply to the greater number of public collectionsthroughout Normandy. I thanked my attendant for his patient and trulyfriendly attention, and took my leave. 

In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert's, the principal bookseller, and "beat about the bush" for bibliographical game. But my pursuit was notcrowned with success. M. J. Told me, in reply to black-letter enquiries, that a Monsieur A----, a stout burly man, whom he called "un grospapa"--was in the habit of paying yearly visits from Jersey, for theacquisition of the same black-letter treasures; and that he swept awayevery thing in the shape of an ancient and _equivocal_ volume, in hisannual rounds. I learnt pretty nearly the same thing from Manoury at Caen. M. Joubert is a very sensible and respectable man; and is not only "_SeulImprimeur de Monseigneur l'Evêque"_ (PIERRE DUPONT-POURSAT), but is in factalmost the only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I bought of him acopy of the _Livre d'Eglise ou Nouveau Paroissien à l'usage du Diocèse deCoutances_, or the common prayer book of the diocese. It is a very thickduodecimo, of 700 double columned pages, printed in a clear, new, andextremely legible character, upon paper of sufficiently good texture. Itwas bound in sheepskin, and I gave only _thirty sous_ for it new. How itcan be published at such a price, is beyond my conception. M. Joubert toldme that the compositor or workman received 20 francs for setting up 36pages, and that the paper was 12 francs per ream. In our own country, suchprices would be at least doubled. 

It is impossible not to be struck here with the great number of YOUNGECCLESIASTICS. In short, the establishment now erecting for them, willcontain, when completed, (according to report) not fewer than four hundred. It is also impossible not to be struck with the extreme simplicity of theirmanners and deportment. They converse with apparent familiarity with thevery humblest of their flock: and seem, from the highest to the lowest, tobe cordially received. They are indifferent as to personal appearance. Oneyoung man carries a bundle of linen to his laundress, along the streets:another carries a round hat in his hand, having a cocked one upon his head:a kitchen utensil is seen in the hand of a third, and a chair, or smalltable, in that of a fourth. As these Clergymen pass, they are repeatedlysaluted. Till the principal building be finished, many of them arescattered about the town, living quite in the upper stories. In short, itis the _profession_, rather than the particular candidate, which seems toclaim the respectful attention of the townsmen. 

[152] See page 13 ante. 

[153] Mr. Cotman has a view of this church, in his work on Normandy. 

[154] I suspect that the "peaceful" waters of this stream were frequently died with the blood of Hugonots and Roman Catholics during the fierce contests between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON, towards the latter half of the sixteenth century. At that period St. Lo was one of the strongest towns in the Bocage; and the very pass above described, was the avenue by which the soldiers of the captains, just mentioned, alternately advanced and retreated in their respective attacks upon St. Lo: which at length surrendered to the victorious army of the _latter_; the leader of the Catholics. SEGUIN: _Histoire Militaire des Bocains_; _p. 340-384_; 1816, _12 mo_. 

[155] The reader will be doubtless gratified by the artist-like view of this cathedral, by Mr. Cotman, in his _Architectural Antiquities of Normandy_. 

[156] It cannot fail to be noticed that the following sentences are in fact _rhyming verse_, though printed prose-wise. 

LETTER XVII. 

JOURNEY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLE DIEU. ST. SEVER. TOWN AND CASTLE OFVIRE. 

_Vire_. 

Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the charms of nature and ofart, as during any one period of my tour. Prepare, therefore, formiscellaneous intelligence; but such as, I will make bold to predict, cannot fail to afford you considerable gratification. Normandy is doubtlessa glorious country. It is fruitful in its soil, picturesque in thedisposition of its land and water, and rich in the architectural relics of"the olden time. " It is also more than ordinarily interesting to anEnglishman. Here, in the very town whence I transmit this despatch--withintwo hundred and fifty yards of the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, which justnow encloses me within its granite walls--here, I say, lived and revelledthe illustrious family of the DE VERES. [157] Hence William the Conquerortook the famous AUBREY DE VERE to be a spectator of his prowess, and asharer of his spoils, in his decisive subjugation of our own country. It isfrom this place that the De Veres derive their name. Their once-proudcastle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below, which turns a hundredmills in its course: but the warder's horn has long ceased to be heard, andthe ramparts are levelled with the solid rock with which they were once, asit were, identified. 

I left Coutances with something approaching to reluctance; so completely_anglicised_ seemed to be the scenery and inhabitants. The evening wasbeautiful in the extreme: and upon gaining the height of one of theopposite hills, within about half a league of the town, on the highGranville route, I alighted--walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately, uponthe lovely landscape around--the cathedral, in the mean time, becoming ofone entire golden tint from the radiance of the setting sun. It was hardlypossible to view a more perfect picture of its kind; and it served as ajust counterpart to the more expansive scene which I had contemplated, butthe preceding evening, from the heights of that same cathedral. Theconducteur of the Diligence rousing me from my rapturous abstraction, Iremounted, and descended into a valley; and ere the succeeding height wasgained, a fainter light floated over the distant landscape ... And everyobject reminded me of the accuracy of those exquisite lines ofCollins--descriptive of the approach of evening's

 ... Gradual, dusky veil. 

For the first time, I had to do with a drunken conducteur. Luckily the roadwas broad, and in the finest possible condition, and perfectly well knownto the horses. Every turning was successfully made; and the fear ofupsetting began to give way to the annoyance experienced from the roaringand shouting of the conducteur. It was almost dark when I reachedGRANVILLE--about twelve miles from Coutances; when I learnt that the horseshad run six miles before they started with us. On entering the town, theroad was absolutely solid rock: and considering what a _house_ we carriedbehind us (for so the body of the _diligence_ seemed) and the uncertainfooting of the horses, in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, Iapprehended the most sinister result. Luckily it was moon-light; when, approaching one of the sorriest looking inns imaginable, whither ourconducteur (in spite of the better instructions of the landlord of theHôtel d'Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us to go, the passengersalighted with thankful hearts, and bespoke supper and beds. 

Granville is fortified on the land side by a deep ravine, which renders anapproach from thence almost impracticable. On every other side it isdefended by the ocean, into which the town seems to have droptperpendicularly from the clouds. At high water, Granville cannot beapproached, even by transports, nearer than within two-thirds of a league;and of course at low water it is surrounded by an extent of sharply pointedrock and chalk: impenetrable--terrific--and presenting both certain failureand destruction to the assailants. It is a GIBRALTAR IN MINIATURE. TheEnglish sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but it was only apolitical diversion. No landing was attempted. In the time of the civilwars, and more particularly in those of the League, Granville, however, hadits share of misery. It is now a quiet, dull, dreary, place; to be visitedonly for the sake of the view from thence, looking towards _St. Malo_, and_Mont St. Michel_; the latter of which I give up--as an hopeless object ofattainment. Granville is in fact built upon rock;[158] and the houses andthe only two churches are entirely constructed of granite. The principalchurch (I think it was the principal) is rather pretty within, as to itsconstruction; but the decidedly gloomy effect given to it by the tint ofthe _granite_--the pillars being composed of that substance--renders itdisagreeable to the eye. I saw several confessionals; and in one of them, the office of confession was being performed by a priest, who attended totwo penitents at the same time; but whose physiognomy was so repulsivelyfrightful, that I could not help concluding he was listening to a talewhich he was by no means prepared to receive. 

An hour's examination of the town thoroughly satisfied me. There was nopublic conveyance to _Vire_, whither I intended immediately departing, andso I hired a voiture to be drawn by one sturdy Norman horse. To a questionabout springs, the conducteur replied that I should find every thing "trèspropre. " Having paid the reckoning, I set my face towards VIRE. The day, for the season of the year, turned out to be gloomy and cold beyondmeasure: and the wind (to the east) was directly in my face. Neverthelessthe road was one of the finest that I had seen in France, for breadth andgeneral soundness of condition. It had all the characteristics, in breadthand straitness, of a Roman route; and as it was greatly undulating, I hadfrequently some gratifying glimpses of its bold direction. The surroundingcountry was of a quietly picturesque but fruitful aspect; and had my seatbeen comfortable, or after the fashion of those in my own country, mysensations had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of _springs_, orany thing approximating to "très propre, " I had to encounter a _hardplank_, suspended at the extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides;and as the road was but too well bottomed, and the conveyance was open infront to the bitter blast of the east, I can hardly describe (as I shallnever forget) the misery of this conveyance. 

Fortunately the first stage was _Ville Dieu_. Here I ordered a voiture andpost horses: but the master of the Poste Royale, or rather of the inn, shook his head--"Pour les chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs: mais, pourla voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Monsieur; venez voir. " I followed, withmiserable forebodings--and entering a shed, where stood an oldtumble-down-looking phaeton--"la voilà, c'est la seule que je possède en cemoment"--exclaimed the landlord. It had never stirred from its positionsince the fall of last years' leaf. It had been--within and without--theroosting place for fowls and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard;and although literally covered with the _evidences_ of such long andundisturbed possession, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as Idiscovered the wished for "_ressorts_" (or _springs_) I compromised for therepulsiveness of the exterior, and declared my intention of taking itonward. Water, brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put inrequisition; and two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to flyaway with this slender machine, being fastened on, I absolutely dartedforward at a round rattling gallop for _St. Sever_. Blessings ever waitupon the memory of that artisan who invented ... _springs_!

The postilion had the perfect command of his horses, and he galloped, ortrotted, or ambled, as his fancy--or rather our wishes--directed. Theapproach to our halting place was rather imposing. What seemed to be amonastery, or church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of Moorisharchitecture; and indeed as I had occasional glimpses of it through thetrees, the effect was exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is intruth very delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, Imade our way for the monastery; which I found to be in a state rather ofdilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I entered thechapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the left--a very clean, large paper, and uncut copy of the folio _Rouen Missal_ of 1759. Everything about this deserted and decaying spot had a melancholy appearance:but the surrounding country was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In formerdays of prosperity--such as St. Sever had seen before the Revolution--therehad been gaiety, abundance, and happiness. It was now a perfect contrast tosuch a state. 

On returning to the "_Poste Royale_" I found two fresh lusty horses to ourvoiture--but the postilion had sent a boy into the field to catch a_third_. Wherefore was this? The tarif exacted it. A third horse"réciproquement pour l'année"--parce qu'il faut traverser une grandemontagne avant d'arriver à Vire"--was the explanatory reply. It seemedperfectly ridiculous, as the vehicle was of such slender dimensions andweight. However, I was forced to yield. To scold the postboy was equallyabsurd and unavailing: "parce que la tarif l'exigea. " But the "montagne"was doubtless a reason for this additional horse: and I began to imaginethat something magnificently picturesque might be in store. The threehorses were put a-breast, and off we started with a phaeton-like velocity!Certainly nothing could have a more ridiculous appearance than my pigmyvoiture thus conveyed by three animals--strong enough to have drawn thediligence. I was not long in reaching this "huge mountain, " which provokedmy unqualified laughter--from its insignificant size--and upon the top ofwhich stands the town of VIRE. It had been a _fair_-day; and groups of menand women, returning from the town, in their blue and crimson dresses, cheered somewhat the general gloom of the day, and lighted up the featuresof the landscape. The nearer I approached, the more numerous and incessantwere these groups. 

Vire is a sort of _Rouen_ in miniature--if bustle and population be onlyconsidered. In architectural comparison, it is miserably feeble andinferior. The houses are generally built of granite, and look extremelysombre in consequence. The old castle is yet interesting and commanding. But of this presently. I drove to the "_Cheval Blanc_, " and bespoke, asusual, a late dinner and beds. The first visit was to the _castle, _ but itis right that you should know, before hand, that the town of Vire, whichcontains a population of about ten thousand souls, stands upon a commandingeminence, in the midst of a very beautiful and picturesque country calledthe BOCAGE. This country was, in former times, as fruitful in civil wars, horrors, and devastations, as the more celebrated Bocage of the morewestern part of France during the late Revolution. In short, the Bocage ofNormandy was the scene of bloodshed during the Calvinistic or Hugonotpersecution. It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts throughwhich I have travelled--from Caen hitherwards--that the hills and the dalesrang with the feats of arms displayed in the alternate discomfiture andsuccess of COLIGNY, CONDÉ, MONTMOGERY, and MATIGNON. [159]

But for the Castle. It is situated at the extremity of an open space, terminated by a portion of the boulevards; having, in the foreground, thepublic library to the left, and a sort of municipal hall to the right:neither of them objects of much architectural consequence. Still nearer inthe foreground, is a fountain; whither men, women, and children--butchiefly the second class, in the character of _blanchisseuses_--regularlyresort for water; as its bason is usually overflowing. It was in a luckymoment that Mr. Lewis paid a visit to this spot; which his ready penciltransmitted to his sketch-book in a manner too beautiful and faithful notto be followed up by a finished design. I send you a portion of thisprettily grouped picture; premising, that the woman to the right, in theforeground, begged leave purposely to sit--or rather stand--for herportrait. The artist, in a short time, was completely surrounded byspectators of his graphic skill. 

[Illustration]

The "_Cheval Blanc_"--the name of the hotel at which I reside--should berather called the "_Cheval Noir_;" for a more dark, dingy, and even dirtyresidence, for a traveller of any _nasal_ or _ocular_ sensibility, can berarely visited. My bed room is hung with tapestry; which, for aught I knowto the contrary, may represent the daring exploits of MONTGOMERY andMATIGNON: but which is so begrimed with filth that there is no decypheringthe subjects worked upon it. 

On leaving the inn--and making your way to the top of the street--you turnto the left; but on looking down, again to the left, you observe, belowyou, the great high road leading to _Caen_, which has a noble appearance. Indeed, the manner in which this part of Normandy is intersected with the"_routes royales_" cannot fail to strike a stranger; especially as theseroads run over hill and dale, amidst meadows, and orchards, equallyabundant in their respective harvests. The immediate vicinity of the townis as remarkable for its picturesque objects of scenery as for its highstate of cultivation; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever partvisited, will not fail to repay you for the certain disappointment to beexperienced within the streets of the town. Portions of the scenery, fromthese heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire, about Matlock. There isplenty of rock, of shrubs, and of fern; while another _Derwent_, lessturbid and muddy, meanders below. Thus much for a general, but hasty sketchof the town of Vire. My next shall give you some detail of the _interior_of a few of the houses, of which I may be said to have hitherto onlycontemplated the _roofs_. 

And yet I must not close my despatch without performing my promise aboutthe CASTLE; of which indeed (as you will see by the subjoined miniatureview) only a sort of ruinous shell remains. Its age may be a little towardsthe end of the thirteenth century. The stone is of a deep reddish tint: andalthough what remains is only a portion of the _keep_, yet I can neversuppose it, even in its state of original integrity, to have been of verycapacious dimensions. Its site is most commanding. 

[Illustration]

[157] The reader will find the fullest particulars relating to this once-distinguished family, in _Halstead's Genealogical Memoirs of Noble Families, &c_. : a book it is true, of extreme scarcity. In lieu of it let him consult _Collin's Noble Families_. 

[158] [Mons. Licquet tells us, that in 1439, a Seigneur of Gratot, ceded the rock of Granville to an English Nobleman, on the day of St. John the Baptist, on receiving the homage of a hat of red roses. The Nobleman intended to build a town there; but Henry VI. Dispossessed him of it, and built fortifications in 1440. Charles VII. In turn, dispossessed Henry; but the additional fortifications which he built were demolished by order of Louis XIV. &c. ]

[159] An epitomised account of these civil commotions will be found in the _Histoire Militaire des Bocains, par_ M. RICHARD SEGUIN; _a Vire_, 1816; 12mo. Of which work, and of its author, some notice will be taken in the following pages. 

LETTER XVIII. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LARENAUDIERE. OLIVIER BASSELIN. M. SÉGUIN. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 

It is a sad rainy day; and having no temptation to stir abroad, I have shutmyself up by the side of a huge wood fire--(surrounded by the dingytapestry, of which my last letter did not make very honourable mention) ina thoroughly communicative mood--to make you acquainted with all that haspassed since my previous despatch. Books and the Bibliomania be the chief"burden of my present song!" You may remember, in my account of the publiclibrary at Caen, that some mention was made of a certain OLIVIERBASSELIN--whom I designated as the DRUNKEN BARNABY _of Normandy_. Well, myfriend--I have been at length made happy, and comforted in the extreme, bythe possession of a copy of the _Vaudevires_ of that said OlivierBasselin--and from the hands, too, of one of his principal editors ... Monsieur Lanon de Larenaudiere, Avocat, et Maire, de Tallevende-le-Petit. This copy I intend (as indeed I told the donor) for the beloved library atAlthorp. But let me tell my tale my own way. 

Hard by the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, (the best, bad as it is--andindeed the only one in the town) lives a printer of the name of ADAM. He isthe principal, and the most respectable of his brethren in the same craft. After discoursing upon sundry desultory topics--and particularly examiningthe _books of Education_, among which I was both surprised and pleased tofind the _Distichs of Muretus_[160]--I expressed my regret at havingtravelled through so many towns of Normandy without meeting with one singlecopy of the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_ for sale. "It is not verysurprising, Sir, since it is a privately printed book, and was neverintended for sale. The impression too is very limited. You know, Sir, thatthe book was published here--and--" "Then I begin to be confident aboutobtaining it"--replied I. "Gently, Sir;--" resumed Monsieur Adam--"it isnot to be bought, even here. But do you know no one... ?" "Not a creature. ""Well, Sir, take courage. You are an Englishman. One of its principaleditors--a very gallant _Bibliomaniac_--who is a great collector and loverof the literature of your country--(here I picked up courage and gaiety ofheart) lives in this town. He is President of the Tribunal. Go to him. "Seeing me hesitate, in consequence of not having a letter ofintroduction--"Ce n'est rien (said he) allez tout-droit. Il aime voscompatriotes; et soyez persuadé de l'accueil le plus favorable. " MethoughtMonsieur Adam spake more eloquently than I had yet heard a Normanspeak. [161]

In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to return with an account ofmy reception) and five minutes brought me into the presence of MonsieurLanon de Larenaudiere, Président du Tribunal, &c. It is not possible for meto convey to you a notion of the warmth, cordiality, and joyousness ofheart, that marked the reception which this gentleman instantly gave me:and I will frankly own that I was as much "abashed" as ever our ancientfriend Caxton had been--in the presence of his patroness the Duchess ofBurgundy. I followed my new bibliomaniacal acquaintance rapidly up stairs;and witnessed, with extreme pleasure, a few bundles of books (some of themEnglish) lying upon the window seats of the first landing-place; much afterthe fashion followed in a certain long, rambling, and antique residence, not quite three quarters of a mile from the towers of Westminster Abbey. 

On gaining the first floor, mine host turned the keys of the doors of twocontiguous rooms, and exclaimed, "VOILA MA BIBLIOTHEQUE!" The air ofconscious triumph with which these words were uttered, delighted meinfinitely; but my delight was much increased on a leisurely survey of oneof the prettiest, most useful, and commendable collections of books, chiefly in the department of the Belles-Lettres, which I had everwitnessed. Monsieur de Larenaudiere has a library of about 9000 volumes, ofwhich _eight hundred are English_. But the owner is especially fond ofpoetical archaeology; in other words, of collecting every work whichdisplays the progress of French and English poetry in the middle andimmediately following ages; and talks of _Trouveurs_ and _Troubadours_ withan enthusiasm approaching to extacy. Meanwhile he points his finger to ourWarton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey; tells you how dearly he loves them; butyet leads you to conclude that he _rather_ prefers _Le Grand, Ginguené, Sismondi_, and _Raynouard_. Of the venerable living oracle in thesematters, the Abbé de la Rue, he said he considered him as "un peu tropsystématique. " In short, M. De Larenaudiere has almost a complete criticalcollection, in our tongue, upon the subject of old poetry; and was mostanxious and inquisitive about the present state of cultivation of thatbranch of literature in England: adding, that he himself meditated a workupon the French poetry of the XIIth and XIIIth centuries. He said hethought his library might be worth about 25, 000 francs: nor did I considersuch a valuation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and incessantly;but he talks well: and spoke of the renown of a certain library in _St. James's Place_, in a manner which could not fail to quicken the pulse andwarm the blood of its Librarian. I concluded an interview of nearly twohours, by his compliance with my wish to dine with me on the following day:although he was quite urgent in bargaining for the previous measure of mytasting his _pôtage_ and _vol au vent_. But the shortness and constantoccupation of my time would not allow me to accede to it. M. DeLarenaudiere then went to a cabinet-like cupboard, drew forth an uncutcopy, stitched in blue spotted paper, of his beloved _Vaudevires_ ofOLIVIER BASSELIN:[162] and presenting it to me, added "Conservez le, pourl'amour de moi. " You may be assured that I received such a present in themost gracious manner I was capable of--but instantly and honestlyadded--"permettez qu'il soit déposé dans la bibliothèque de Milord S... ?"C'est la même chose"--rejoined he; and giving me the address of the publiclibrarian, we separated in the most cordial manner till the morrow. 

I posted back to Monsieur Adam, the printer and bookseller, and held aloftmy blue-covered copy of the _Vaudevires_ as an unquestionable proof of thesuccessful result of my visit to Monsieur La Renaudiere. Leaving theprecious cargo with him, and telling him that I purposed immediatelyvisiting the public library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness aboutbooks--and asked me if I had ever _published_ any thing _bibliographical_?"Car enfin, Monsieur, la pluspart des _Virois_ ne savent rien de lalitérature angloise"--concluded he ... But I had just witnessed a splendidexception to this sweeping clause of censure. I then sought the residenceof the Abbé Du MORTUEUX, the public librarian. That gentleman was fromhome, at a dinner party. I obtained information of the place where he mightbe found; and considering _two_ o'clock to be rather too early an hour(even in France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise of so importanta function, I strolled in the neighbourhood of the street, where he wasregaling, for a full hour and half: when, at the expiration of that time, Iventured to knock at the door of a very respectable mansion, and to enquirefor the bibliographical Abbé. "He is here, Sir, and has just done dinner. May I give him your name?" "I am a stranger: an Englishman; who, on therecommendation of Monsieur Larenaudiere, wishes to see the public library. But I will call again in about an hour. " "By no means: by no means: theAbbé will see you immediately. " And forthwith appeared a very comely, tall, and respectable-looking gentleman, with his hair en plein costume, both asto form and powder. Indeed I had rarely before witnessed so prepossessing afigure. His salutation and address were most gracious and winning; and hetold me that I had nothing to do but to accompany him to the place which Iwished to visit. Without even returning to his friends, he took hishat--and in one minute, to my surprise, I found myself in the street withthe Abbé de Mortueux, in the high way to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. In our waythither our discourse was constant and unrestrained. "You appear here;Monsieur l'Abbé, to be partial to literature;... But allow me first tocongratulate you on the beautiful environs of your town. " "For literaturein general, we are pretty well disposed. In regard to the beauties of theimmediate neighbourhood of Vire, we should be unworthy inhabitants indeed, if we were not sensible of them. " In five minutes we reached the Library. 

The shutters of the room were fastened, but the worthy Abbé opened them ina trice; when I saw, for the first time in Normandy, what appeared to be agenuine, old, unmutilated, unpillaged library. The room could be scarcelymore than twenty-two feet square. I went instantly to work, with eyes andhands, in the ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding somethingin the shape of a good old Greek or Roman Classic, or French Chronicle, orRomance. But, alas, I looked, and handled the tomes in vain! The history ofthe library is this:--The founder was a Monsieur PICHON; who, on beingtaken prisoner by the English, at the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resideda long time in England under the name of TYRREL, and lived in circumstancesof respectability and even of opulence. There--whether on the dispersion ofthe libraries of our Meads, Foulkes', and Rawlinsons, I know not--he madehis collection; took his books over with him to Jersey, where he died in1780: and bequeathed them, about 3000 in number, to his native town ofVire. M. Du Mortueux, who gave me these particulars, has drawn up a littlememorial about Pichon. His portrait, executed by an English artist, (whilsthe lived among us) adorns the library; with which I hope it will go down toa distant and grateful posterity. The colouring of this portrait is faded:but it is evident that Monsieur Pichon had an expressive and sensiblephysiognomy. 

Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was untouched during theRevolution; while the neighbouring library of the _Cordeliers_ wasransacked without mercy. But I regret to say that the books in thecupboards are getting sadly damp. Do not expect any thing very marvellousin the details of this collection; The old-fashioned library doors, ofwood, are quite in character with what they protect. Among the earlierprinted books, I saw a very bad copy of _Sweynheym and Pannartz's_ editionof the _De Civitate Dei_ of St. Austin, of the date of 1470; and a largefolio of _Gering's_ impression of the _Sermons of Leonard de Utino_ printedabout the year 1478. This latter was rather a fine book. A littleblack-letter Latin Bible by Froben, of the date of 1495, somewhat temptedme; but I could not resist asking, in a manner half serious and halfjocose, whether a napoleon would not secure me the possession of a piquantlittle volume of black-letter tracts, printed by my old friend GuidoMercator?[163] The Abbé smiled: observing--"mon ami, on fait voir leslivres ici; on les lit même: mais on ne les vend pas. " I felt the force ofthis pointed reply: and was resolved never again to ask an Ecclesiastic topart with a black-letter volume, even though it should be printed by "myold friend Guido Mercator. "

Seeing there was very little more deserving of investigation, I enquired ofmy amiable guide about the "LIBRARY OF THE CORDELIERS, " of which he hadjust made mention. He told me that it consisted chiefly of canon and civillaw, and had been literally almost destroyed: that he had contrived howeverto secure a great number of "rubbishing theological books, " (so he calledthem!) which he sold for _three sous_ a piece--and with the produce ofwhich he bought many excellent works for the library. I should like to havehad the sifting of this "theological rubbish!" It remained only to thankthe Abbé most heartily for his patient endurance of my questions andsearches, and particularly to apologise for bringing him from hissurrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a "soyez tranquille, " thatthe matter was not worth either a thought or a syllable; and ere we quittedthe library, he bade me observe the written entries of the numbers ofstudents who came daily thither to read. There were generally (he told me)from fifteen to twenty "hard at it"--and I saw the names of not fewer than_ninety-two_ who aspired to the honour and privilege of having access tothe BIBLIOTHECA PICHONIANA. 

For the third time, in the same day, I visited Monsieur Adam; to carryaway, like a bibliomaniacal Jason, the fleece I had secured. I saw there agrave, stout gentleman--who saluted me on my entrance, and who wasintroduced to me by Monsieur A. By the name of SÉGUIN. He had been waiting(he said) full three quarters of an hour to see me, and concluded byobserving, that, although a man in business, he had aspired to the honourof authorship. He had written, in fact, two rather interesting--butwretchedly, and incorrectly printed--duodecimo volumes, relating to theBOCAGE, [164] in the immediate vicinity of Vire; and was himself the solevender and distributer of his publications. On my expressing a wish topossess these books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would wait hisreturn with a copy or two of them. While he was gone, M. Adam took theopportunity of telling me that he was a rich, respectable tradesman; butthat, having said some severe things of the manufactures of Vire in his_first_ publication, [165] relating to the _civil_ history of the Bocains, his townsmen sharply resented what they considered as reflections thrownout against them; and M. Séguin was told that perhaps his personal safetywas endangered ... He wanted not a second hint--but fled from home withprecipitancy: and in his absence the populace suspended his effigy, andburnt it before the door of his house. This, however, did not _cool_ theardour of authorship in M. Séguin. He set about publishing his _military_history of the Bocains; and in the introductory part took occasion toretort upon the violence of his persecutors. To return to M. Séguin. Inabout ten minutes he appeared, with two copies in his hand--which Ipurchased, I thought dearly, at five francs each volume; or a napoleon forthe four books. After the adventures of this day, I need hardly tell youthat I relished a substantial dinner at a late hour, and that I was wellsatisfied with Vire. 

Yesterday M. De Larenaudiere made good his engagement, and dined with me atfive, in the salle à manger. This is a large inn; and if good fare dependedupon the number and even elegance of female cooks, the traveller ought toexpect the very best at the _Cheval Blanc_. The afternoon was soinviting--and my guest having volunteered his services to conduct me to themost beautiful points of view in the immediate neighbourhood--that we eachseemed to vie with the other in quickly dispatching what was placed beforeus; and within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting down, wewere in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I forget that afternoon'sramble. The sun seemed to become more of a golden hue, and the atmosphereto increase in clearness and serenity. A thousand little songsters werewarbling in the full-leaved branches of the trees; while the mingled notesof the _blanchisseuses_ and the milk-maids, near the banks of the ripplingstream below, reached us in a sort of wild and joyous harmony--as we gazeddown from the overhanging heights. The meadows were spotted with sheep, andthe orchards teemed with the coming fruit. You may form some notion of thevalue of this rich and picturesque scenery, when I tell you that M. DeLarenaudiere possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire, which letsper acre at the rate of _6l. _ _6s. _ English. My guide was all gaiety ofheart, and activity of step. I followed him through winding paths anddevious tracks, amidst coppice-wood and fern--not however till I hadviewed, from one particular spot upon the heights, a most commanding andinteresting panorama of the town of Vire. 

In our perambulation, we discoursed of English poetry; and I found thatTHOMSON was as great a favourite with my guide as with the rest of hiscountrymen. Indeed he frankly told me that he had translated him intoFrench verse, and intended to publish his translation. I urged him to quotespecimens; which he did with a readiness and force, and felicity ofversion, that quite delighted me. He thoroughly understands the original;and in the description of a cataract, or mountain torrent, from the Summer, he appeared to me almost to surpass it. My guide then proceeded to quoteYoung and Pope, and delivered his opinion of our two great Whig and ToryReviews. He said he preferred the politics and vivacity of the _Edinburgh_, but thought the _Quarterly_ more instructive and more carefully written. "Enfin (he concluded) j'aime infiniment votre gouvernement, et vosécrivains; mais j'aime moins le peuple Anglois. " I replied that he had atleast very recently shewn an exception to this opinion, in his treatment of_one_ among this _very_ people. "C'est une autre chose"--replied hebriskly, and laughingly--"vous allez voir deux de vos compatriotes, quisont mes intimes, et vous en serez bien content!" So saying, we continuedour route through a delightful avenue of beech-trees, upon the mostelevated part within the vicinity of the town; and my companion bade meview from thence the surrounding country. It was rich and beautiful in theextreme; and with perfect truth, I must say, resembled much more stronglythe generality of our own scenery than what I had hitherto witnessed inNormandy. But the sun was beginning to cast his shadows broader andbroader, and where was the residence of Monsieur and Madame S----?

It was almost close at hand. We reached it in a quarter of an hour--but theinmates were unluckily from home. The house is low and long, butrespectable in appearance both within and without. The approach to it isthrough a pretty copse, terminated by a garden; and the surrounding groundsare rather tastefully laid out. A portion of it indeed had been trainedinto something in the shape of a labyrinth; in the centre of which was arocky seat, embedded as it were in moss--and from which some fine glimpseswere caught of the surrounding country. The fragrance from the orchardtrees, which had not yet quite shed their blossoms, was perfectlydelicious; while the stillness of evening added to the peculiar harmony ofthe whole. We had scarcely sauntered ten minutes before Madame arrived. Shehad been twelve years in France, and spoke her own language so imperfectly, or rather so unintelligibly, that I begged of her to resume the French. Herreception of us was most hospitable: but we declined cakes and wine, onaccount of the lateness of the hour. She told us that her husband was inpossession of from fourscore to a hundred acres of the most productiveland; and regretted that he was from home, on a visit to a neighbouringgentleman; assuring us, if we could stay, that he would be heartily glad tosee us--"especially any of his _countrymen_, when introduced by Monsieur deLarenaudiere. " It was difficult to say who smiled and bowed with thegreater complacency, at this double-shotted compliment. I now pressed ourretreat homewards. We bade this agreeable lady farewell, and returned downthe heights, and through the devious paths by which we had ascended, While talk of various kind deceived the road. 

A more active and profitable day has not yet been devoted to Normanobjects, whether of art or of nature. Tomorrow I breakfast with my friendand guide, and immediately afterwards push on for FALAISE. A cabriolet ishired, but doubts are entertained respecting the practicability of theroute. My next epistle will be therefore from Falaise--where the renownedWilliam the Conqueror was born, whose body we left entombed at Caen. Theday is clearing up; and I yet hope for a stroll upon the site of thecastle. 

[160] "_Les Distiques de Muret, traduits en vers Français, par Aug. A_. Se vend à Vire, chez Adam imprimeur-lib. An. 1809. The reader may not be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering these distichs into French verse:

 1. Dum tener es, MURETE, avidis hæc auribus hauri: Nec memori modò conde animo, sed et exprime factis. 

 2. Imprimis venerare Deum; venerare parentes: Et quos ipsa loco tibi dat natura parentum. &c. 

 1. _Jeune encore, ô mon fils! pour être homme de bien, Ecoute, et dans ton coeur grave cet entretien_. 

 2. _Sers, honors le Dieu qui créa tous les êtres; Sois fils respectueux, sois docile à tes maîtres. &c_. 

[161] [Smartly and felicitously rendered by my translator Mons. Licquet; "Jamais bouche Normande ne m'avait paru plus éloquente que celle de M. Adam. " vol. Ii. P. 220. ]

[162] The present seems to be the proper place to give the reader some account of this once famous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that France rests her pretensions to poetical celebrity upon such claims. Love, romantic adventures, gaiety of heart and of disposition, form the chief materials of her minor poems; but we have here before us, in the person and productions of OLIVIER BASSELIN, a rival to ANACREON of old; to our own RICHARD BRAITHWAIT, VINCENT BOURNE, and THOMAS MOORE. As this volume may not be of general notoriety, the reader may be prepared to receive an account of its contents with the greater readiness and satisfaction. First, then, of the life and occupations of Olivier Basselin; which, as Goujet has entirely passed over all notice of him, we can gather only from the editors of the present edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been a _Virois_; in other words, an inhabitant of the town of Vire. But he had a strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred the immediate vicinity of Vire--its quiet little valleys, running streams, and rocky recesses--to a more open and more distant residence. In such places, therefore, he carried with him his flasks of cider and his flagons of wine. Thither he resorted with his "boon and merry companions, " and there he poured forth his ardent and unpremeditated strains. These "strains" all savoured of the jovial propensities of their author; it being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment, whether connected with friendship or love, is admitted into his compositions. He was the thorough-bred Anacreon of France at the close of the fifteenth century. 

 The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation, is the chief town of that department of Normandy called the BOCAGE; and in this department few places have been, of old, more celebrated than the _Vaux de Vire_; on account of the number of manufactories which have existed there from time immemorial. It derives its name from two principal valleys, in the form of a T, of which the base (if it may be so called--"jambage") rests upon the _Place du Chateau de Vire_. It is sufficiently contiguous to the town to be considered among the fauxbourgs. The rivers _Vire_ and _Viréne_, which unite at the bridge of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the XVth century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition. Indeed, BASSELIN himself was a sort of cloth manufacturer. In this valley he passed his life in fulling his cloths, and "in composing those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the volume under consideration. " _Discours Préliminaire_, p. 17, &c. Olivier Basselin is the parent of the title _Vaudevire--_which has since been corrupted into _Vaudeville_. From the observation of his critics, Basselin appears to have been the FATHER of BACCHANALIAN POETRY in France. He frequented public festivals, and was a welcome guest at the tables of the rich; where the Vaudevire was in such request, that it is supposed to have superseded the "Conte, or Fabliau, or the Chanson d'Amour. "[B] p. Xviij:

 Sur ce point-là, soyez tranquille: Nos neveux, j'én suis bien certain, Se souviendront de BASSELIN, _Pere joyeux du Vaudeville:_ p. Xxiij. 

 I proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this ancient ANACREON of France; and must necessarily begin with a few of those that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality. 

 _VAUDEVIRE II_. 

 AYANT le doz au feu et le ventre à la table, Estant parmi les pots pleins de vin délectable, Ainsi comme ung poulet Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie, Quant en debvroye avoir la face cramoisie Et le nez violet;

 QUANT mon nez devendra de couleur rouge ou perse, Porteray les couleurs que chérit ma maitresse. Le vin rent le teint beau. Vault-il pas mieulx avoir la couleur rouge et vive, Riche de beaulx rubis, que si pasle et chétive Ainsi qu'ung beuveur d'eau. 

 _VAUDEVIRE XI_. 

 CERTES _hoc vinum est bonus_: Du maulvais latin ne nous chaille, Se bien congru n'estoit ce jus, Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille. Escolier j'appris que bon vin Aide bien au maulvais latin. 

 CESTE sentence praticquant, De latin je n'en appris guère; Y pensant estre assez sçavant, Puisque bon vin aimoye à boire. Lorsque maulvais vin on a beu, Latin n'est bon, fust-il congru. Fy du latin, parlons françois, Je m'y recongnois davantaige. Je vueil boire une bonne fois, Car voicy ung maistre breuvaige; Certes se j'en beuvoye soubvent, Je deviendroye fort éloquent. 

 _VAUDEVIRE XXII_. 

 HE! qu'avons-nous affaire Du Turc ny du Sophy, Don don. Pourveu que j'aye à boire, Des grandeurs je dis fy. Don don. Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon: _Hoc acuit ingenium. _

 QUI songe en vin ou vigne, Est ung présaige heureux, Don don. Le vin à qui réchigne Rent le coeur tout joyeux, Don don. Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon: _Hoc acuit ingenium_. &c. 

 The poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted to the celebration of the physical effects of wine upon the body and animal spirits; and the gentler emotions of the TENDER PASSION are rarely described in his numbers. In consequence, he has not invoked the Goddess of Beauty to associate with the God of Wine: to

 "Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his bowl;"

 or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female, it is done after the following fashion--which discovers however an extreme facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems wonderfully accordant with a Bacchanalian note. 

 _VAUDEVIRE XIX_. 

 En ung jardin d'ombraige tout couvert, Au chaud du jour, ay treuvé Madalaine, Qui près le pié d'ung sicomorre vert Dormoit au bort d'une claire fontaine; Son lit estoit de thin et marjolaine. Son tetin frais n'estoit pas bien caché: D'amour touché, Pour contempler sa beauté souveraine Incontinent je m'en suys approché. Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille, Voicy vin excellent Qui faict lever l'oreille; Il faict mol qui n'en prent. 

 Je n'eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant, De m'abstenir de baizotter sa bouche; Si bien qu'enfin la belle s'esveillant, Me regardant avec ung oeil farouche, Me dit ces mots: Biberon, ne me touche. Belle fillette à son aize ne couche Avecq celuy qui ne faict qu'yvrongner, &c. &c. 

 The preceding extracts will suffice. This is a volume in every respect interesting--both to the literary antiquary and to the Book-Collector. A NEW EDITION of this work has appeared under the editorial care of M. Louis Dubois, published at Caen in 1821, 8vo. Obtainable at a very moderate price. 

 [B] The host, at these public and private festivals, usually called upon some one to recite or sing a song, chiefly of an amatory or chivalrous character; and this custom prevailed more particularly in Normandy than in other parts of France:

 Usaige est en Normandie, Que qui hebergiez est qu'il die Fable ou Chanson à son oste. 

 See the authorities cited at page XV, of this Discours préliminaire. 

[163] Some account of this printer, together with a fac-simile of his device, may be seen in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. Ii. P. 33-6. 

[164] The first publication is entitled "_Essai sur l'Histoire de l'Industrie du Bocage en Général et de la Ville de Vire sa capitale en particulier, &c. _" Par M. RICHARD SEGUIN. _A Vire, chez Adam, Imprimeur, an_ 1810, 12mo. It is not improbable that I may have been the only importer of this useful and crowdedly-paged duodecimo volume; which presents us with so varied and animated a picture of the manners, customs, trades, and occupations of the Bocains and the Virois. 

[165] I subjoin an extract which relates to the

 DRESS AND CHARACTER OF THE WOMEN. 

 "Quant au COSTUME DES FEMMES d'aujourd'hui, comme il faudrait un volume entier pour le décrire, je n'ai pas le courage de m'engager dans ce labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolités. Ce que j'en dirai seulement en général, c'est qu'autant les femmes du temps passé, etaient décentes et chastes, et se faisaient gloire d'être graves et modestes, autant celles de notre siècle mettent tout en oeuvre pour paraître cyniques et voluptueuses. Nous ne sommes plus au temps où les plus grandes dames se faisaient honneur de porter la cordélière. [C] Leurs habillemens étaient aussi larges et fermés, que celui des femmes de nos jours sont ouverts et légers, et d'une finesse que les formes du corps, au moindre mouvement, se dessinent, de manière à ne laisser rien ignorer. A peine se couvrent-elles le sein d'un voile transparent très-léger ou de je ne sais quelle palatine qu'elles nomment point-à-jour, qui, en couvrant tout, ne cache rien; en sorte que si elles n'étalent pas tous leurs charmes à découvert, c'est que les hommes les moins scrupuleux, qui se contentent de les persifler, en seraient révoltés tout-à-fait. D'ailleurs, c'est que ce n'est pas encore la mode; plusieurs poussent même l'impudence jusqu'à venir dans nos temples sans coiffure, les cheveux hérissés comme des furies; d'autres, par une bizarrerie qu'on ne peut expliquer se dépouillent, autant qu'il est en leur pouvoir, des marques de leur propre sexe, sembleut rougir d'être femmes, et deviennent ridicules en voulant paraitre demi-hommes. 

 "Après avoir deshonoré l'habit des femmes, elles ont encore voulu prostituer CELUI DES HOMMES. On les a vues adopter successivement les chapeaux, les redingotes, les vestes, les gilets, les bottes et jusqu'aux boutons. Enfin si, au lieu de jupons, elles avaient pu s'accommoder de l'usage de la culotte, la métamorphose était complette; mais elles ont préféré les robes traînantes; c'est dommage que la nature ne leur ait donné une troisième main, qui leur serait nécessaire pour tenir cette longue queue, qui souvent patrouille la boue ou balaye la poussière. Plût à Dieu que les anciennes lois fussent encore en vigueur, ou ceux et celles qui portaient des habits indécent étaient obligés d'aller à Rome pour en obtenir l'absolution, qui ne pouvait leur être accordée que par le souverain pontife, &c. 

 "Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les Viroises, joignent à un esprit vif et enjoué les qualités du corps les plus estimables. Blondes et brunes pour le plus grand nombre, elles sont de la moyenne taille, mais bien formées: elles ont le teint frais et fleuri, l'oeil vif, le visage vermeil, la démarche leste, un air étoffé et très élégantes dans tout leur maintien. Si on dit avec raison que les Bayeusines sont belles, les filles du Bocage, qui sont leurs voisines, ne leur cèdent en aucune manière, car en général le sang est très-beau en ce pays. Quant aux talens spirituels, elles les possèdent à un dégré éminent. Elles parlent avec aisance, ont le repartie prompte, et outre les soins du ménage, ou elles excellent de telle sorte qu'il n'y a point de contrées ou il y ait plus de linge, elles entendent à merveille, et font avec succès tout le détail du commerce. " p. 238. 

 These passages, notwithstanding the amende honorable of the concluding paragraph, raised a storm of indignation against the unsuspecting author! Nor can we be surprised at it. 

 This publication is really filled with a great variety of curious historical detail--throughout which is interspersed much that relates to "romaunt lore" and romantic adventures. The civil wars between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON form alone a very important and interesting portion of the volume; and it is evident that the author has exerted himself with equal energy and anxiety to do justice to both parties--except that occasionally he betrays his antipathies against the Hugonots. [D] I will quote the concluding passage of this work. There may be at least half a score readers who may think it something more than merely historically curious:

 "Je finirai donc ici mon Histoire. Je n'ai point parlé d'un grand nombre des faits d'armes et d'actions glorieuses, qui se sont passés dans la guerre de l'indépendance des Etats-Unis d'Amérique où beaucoup de Bocains ont eu part; mais mon principal dessein a été de traiter des guerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage; ainsi je crois avoir atteint mon but, qui était d'écrire l'Histoire Militaire des Bocains par des faits et non par des phrases, je ne peux cependant omettre une circonstance glorieuse pour le Bocage; c'est la visite que le bon et infortuné Louis XVI. Fit aux Bocains en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues étaient aussi sages que profondes, avait résolu de faire construire le beau Port de Cherbourg, ouvrage vraiment Royal, qui est une des plus nobles entreprises qui aient été faites depuis l'origine de la Monarchie. Les Bocains sentirent l'avantage d'un si grand bienfait. Le Roi venant visiter les travaux, fut accueilli avec un enthousiasme presqu'impossible à décrire, ainsi que les Princes qui l'accompagnaient. Sa marche rassemblait à un triomphe. Les peuples accouraient en foule du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la route, faisant retentir les airs de chants d'alégresse et des cris millions de fois répétés de Vive le Roi! Musique, Processions, Arcs de triomphe, Chemins jonchés de fleurs; tout fut prodigué. Les villes de Caen, de Bayeux, de Saint-Lo, de Carentan, de Valognes, se surpassérent dans cette occasion, pour prouver à S. M. Leur amour et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut plus brillant que l'entrée de ce grand Roi à Cherbourg. Un peuple immense, le clergé, toute la noblesse du pays, le son des cloches, le bruit du canon, les acclamations universelles prouvérent au Monarque mieux encore que la pompe toute Royale et les fêtes magnifiques que la ville ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de tous les Bocains étaient à lui. " p. 428. 

 [C] "Ceinture alors regardée comme le symbole de la continence. La reine de France en décorait les femmes titrées dont la conduite était irréprochable. " _Hist. De la réun. De Bretagne a la France par l'abbé Irail_. 

 [D] "Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, toutes sortes de cruautés, d'infamies et de sacrilèges, jusqu'à mêler les Saintes Hosties avec l'avoine qu'ils donnaient à leurs chevaux: mais Dieu permit qu'ils n'en voulurent pas manger. " p. 369. 

LETTER XIX. 

DEPARTURE FROM VIRE. CONDÉ. PONT OUILLY. ARRIVAL AT FALAISE. HOTEL OF THEGRAND TURC. THE CASTLE OF FALAISE. BIBLIOMANIACAL INTERVIEW. 

_Falaise_. 

Here I am--or rather, here I have been--my most excellent friend, for thelast four days--and from hence you will receive probably the last despatchfrom NORMANDY--- from the "land (as I told you in my first epistle) of"castles, churches, and ancient chivalry. " An old, well-situated, respectably-inhabited, and even flourishing, town--the birth-place too ofour renowned FIRST WILLIAM:--weather, the most serene and inviting--andhospitality, thoroughly hearty, and after the English fashion:--these haveall conspired to put me in tolerably good spirits. My health, too, thankGod, has been of late a little improved. You wish me to continue the threadof my narrative unbroken; and I take it up therefore from the preparationfor my departure from Vire. 

I breakfasted, as I told you I was about to do, with my friend and guideMons. De Larenaudiere; who had prepared quite a sumptuous repast for ourparticipation. Coffee, eggs, sweetmeats, cakes, and all the comfortableparaphernalia of an inviting breakfast-table, convinced us that we were inwell-furnished and respectable quarters. Madame did the honours of the mealin perfectly good taste; and one of the loveliest children I ever saw--alad, of about five or six years of age--with a profusion of hair of themost delicate quality and colour, gave a sort of joyous character to ourlast meal at Vire. The worthy host told me to forget him, when I reachedmy own country;[166] and that, if ever business or pleasure brought meagain into Normandy, to remember that the Maire de Tallevende-le-Petitwould-be always happy to renew his assurances of hospitality. At the sametime, he entreated me to pay attention to a list of English books which heput into my hands; and of which he stood considerably in need. We badefarewell in the true English fashion, by a hearty shake of the hands; and, mounting our voiture, gave the signal for departure. "Au plaisir de vousrevoir!"--'till a turning of the carriage deprived us of the sight of eachother. It is not easy--and I trust it is not natural--for me to forget thelast forty-eight hours spent in the interesting town of VIRE!

Our route to this place was equally grand and experimental; grand, as tothe width of the road, and beauty of the surrounding country--butexperimental, inasmuch as a part of the _route royale_ had been broken up, and rendered wholly impassable for carriages of any weight. Our own, of itskind, was sufficiently light; with a covering of close wicker-work, paintedafter the fashion of some of our bettermost tilted carts. One Norman horse, in full condition of flesh, with an equal portion of bone and muscle, wasto convey us to this place, which cannot be less than twenty-two good longEnglish miles from Vire. The carriage had no springs; and our seat wasmerely suspended by pieces of leather fastened at each end. At _Condé_, about one-third of the distance, we baited, to let both man and horsebreathe over their dinners; while, strolling about that prettily situatedlittle town, we mingled with the inhabitants, and contemplated the variousfaces (it being market-day) with no ordinary degree of gratification. Amidst the bustle and variety of the scene, our ears were greeted by theair of an itinerant ballad-singer: nor will you be displeased if I send youa copy of it:--since it is gratifying to find any thing like a return tothe good old times of the sixteenth century. 

 VIVE LE ROI, VIVE L'AMOUR. 

 François Premier, nous dit l'histoire, Etoit la fleur des Chevaliers, Près d'Etampes aux champs de gloire Il recueillit myrtes et lauriers; Sa maîtresse toujours fidèle, Le payant d'un tendre retour, Lui chantant cette ritournelle; _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_. 

 Henri, des princes le modèle, Ton souvenir est dans nos coeurs, Par la charmante Gabrielle Ton front fut couronné de fleurs; De la Ligue domptant la rage, Tu sus triompher tour-à-tour, Par la clémence et ton courage: _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_. 

 Amant chéri de la Vallière, Des ennemis noble vainqueur, LOUIS savoit combattre et plaire, Guidé par l'Amour et l'honneur; A son retour de la Victoire, Entouré d'une aimable cour, Il entendoit ce cri de gloire: _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_. 

 &c. 

There was a freshness of tint, and a comeliness of appearance, among thebourgeoises and common people, which were not to be eclipsed even by thebelles of Coutances. Our garçon de poste and his able-bodied quadrupedhaving each properly recruited themselves, we set forward--bypreference--to walk up the very long and somewhat steep hill which rises onthe other side of Conde towards _Pont Ouilly_--in the route hither. Perhapsthis was the most considerable ascent we had mounted on foot, since we hadleft Rouen. The view from the summit richly repaid the toil of using ourlegs. It was extensive, fruitful, and variegated; but neither rock normountain scenery; nor castles, nor country seats; nor cattle, nor thepassing traveller--served to mark or to animate it. It was still, purenature, upon a vast and rich scale: and as the day was fine, and my spiritsgood, I was resolved to view and to admire. 

_Pont Ouilly_ lies in a hollow; with a pretty winding river, which seems torun through its centre. The surrounding hills are gently undulating; and aswe descended to the Inn, we observed, over the opposite side of the town, upon the summit of one of the hills, a long procession of men andwomen--headed by an ecclesiastic, elevating a cross--who were about tocelebrate, at some little distance, one of their annual festivals. Theeffect--as the procession came in contact with a bright blue sky, softenedby distance--was uncommonly picturesque ... But the day was getting onfast, and there was yet a considerable distance to perform, --while, inaddition, we had to encounter the most impassable part of the road. Besides, I had not yet eaten a morsel since I had left Vire. Upon holding aconsultation, therefore, it was resolved to make for the inn, and to dinethere. A more sheltered, rural, spot cannot be conceived. It resembled verymany of the snug scenes in South Wales. Indeed the whole country was of acharacter similar to many parts of Monmouthshire; although with a miserabledraw-back in respect to the important feature of _wood_. Through the wholeof Normandy, you miss those grand and overshadowing masses of oak, whichgive to Monmouthshire, and its neighbouring county of Glocester, that richand majestic appearance which so decidedly marks the character of thosecounties. However, we are now at the inn at Pont Ouilly. A dish of riverfish, gudgeons, dace, and perch, was speedily put in requisition. Goodwine, "than which France could boast no better!" and a roast fowl, whichthe daughter of the hostess "knew how to dress to admiration" ... Was allthat this humble abode could afford us. " "But we were welcome:"--that is, upon condition that we paid our reckoning.... 

The dinner would be ready in a "short half hour. " Mr. Lewis, went to thebridge, to look around, for the purpose of exercising his pencil: while Isauntered more immediately about the house. Within five minutes awell-looking, and even handsome, young woman--of an extremely faircomplexion--her hair cut close behind--her face almost smothered in a whitecap which seemed of crape--and habited in a deep black--passed quickly byme, and ascended a flight of steps, leading to the door of a very humblemansion. She smiled graciously at the _aubergiste_ as she passed her, andquickly disappeared. On enquiry, I was told that she was a nun, who, sincethe suppression of the convent to which she had belonged, earned herlivelihood by teaching some of the more respectable children in thevillage. She had just completed her twentieth year. I was now addressed bya tall, bluff, shabby-looking man--who soon led me to understand that hewas master of the inn where my "suite" was putting up;--that I had beenegregiously deceived about the nature of the road--for that it was totallyimpossible for _one_ horse:--even the very best in Normandy--(and wherewill you find better? added he, parenthetically--as I here give it to you)to perform the journey with such a voiture and such a weight of luggagebehind. " I was struck equally with amazement and woe at this intelligence. The unpitying landlord saw my consternation. "Hark you, sir... (rejoinedhe) if you _must_ reach Falaise this evening, there is only one method ofdoing it. You must have _another horse_. " "Willingly, " I replied. "Yes, sir--but you can have it only upon _one_ condition. " "What is that?" "Ihave some little business at Falaise myself. Allow me to strap about onehundred weight of loaf-sugar at the back of your conveyance, and I myselfwill be your garçon de poste thither. " I own I thought him about the mostimpudent fellow I had yet seen in Normandy: but there was no time forresistance. Necessity compelled acquiescence. Accordingly, the dinner beingdispatched--which, though good, was charged at six francs a-head--weprepared for our departure. 

But judge of my surprise and increased consternation, when the fellowordered forth a little runt of a quadruped--in the shape of a horse--whichwas hardly higher than the lower part of the chest of the animal whichbrought us from Vire! I remonstrated. The landlord expostulated. Iresisted--but the fellow said it was a bargain; and proceeded quietly todeposit at least _two_ hundred weight of his refined sugar at the back ofthe carriage. This Lilliputian horse was made the leader. The landlordmounted on the front seat, with our Vire post-boy by the side of him; andsounding his whip, with a most ear-piercing whoop and hollow, we sprungforward for Falaise--which we were told we should reach before sunset. Youcan hardly conceive the miseries of this cross-road journey. The routeroyale was, in fact, completely impassable; because they were repairing it. Alarmed at the ruggedness of the cross-road, where one wheel was in a rutof upwards of a foot deep, and the other elevated in proportion--we gotout, and resolved to push on a-foot. We walked for nearly two leagues, before our conveyance overtook us--so harassing and so apparentlyinsurmountable seemed to be the road. But the cunning aubergiste had nowgot rid of his leader. He said that it was only necessary to use it for thefirst two or three leagues--which was the most difficult part of theroute--and that, for the remainder, about five English miles, our "fineNorman horse" was perfectly sufficient. This fine Norman horse wastreated most unmercifully by him. He flogged, he hallooed, he swore ... The animal tript, stumbled, and fell upon his knees--more thanonce--from sheer fatigue. The charioteer hallooed and flogged again: andI thought we must have taken up our night quarters in thehigh-way;--when suddenly, to the left, I saw the fine warm glow of thesun, which had set about twenty minutes, lighting up one of the mostperfect round towers, of an old castle, that I had yet seen in Normandy. Voilà FALAISE!--exclaimed the ruthless charioteer; ... And in a quarterof an hour we trotted hard down a hill (after the horse had been twiceagain upon his knees) which terminated in this most interesting place. 

It will be difficult for me to forget--after such a long, wearisome, and inpart desperate journey--our approach to Falaise:--and more especially theappearance of the castle just mentioned. The stone seemed as fresh, and asperfectly cemented, as if it had been the work of the preceding year. Moreover, the contiguous parts were so fine and so thoroughlypicturesque--and the superadded tradition of its being, according to some, the birth place--and according to others, the usual residence--of WILLIAMTHE CONQUEROR ... Altogether threw a charm about the first glimpse of thisvenerable pile, which cannot be easily described. I had receivedinstructions to put up at the "_Grand Turc_"--as the only hotel worthy anEnglishman's notice. At the door of the Grand Turk, therefore, we weresafely deposited: after having got rid of our incumbrances of twopostilions, and two hundred weight of refined sugar. Our reception wasgracious in the extreme. The inn appeared "tout-à-fait à la modeAnglaise"--and no marvel ... For Madame the hostess was an Englishwoman. Her husband's name was _David_. 

Bespeaking a late cup of tea, I strolled through the principalstreets, --delighted with the remarkably clear current of the water, whichran on each side from the numerous overcharged fountains. Day-light hadwholly declined; when, sitting down to my souchong, I saw, withastonishment--a _pair of sugar-tongs_ and a _salt-spoon_--the first of thekind I had beheld since I left England! Madame David enjoyed my surprise;adding, in a very droll phraseology, that she had "not forgotten goodEnglish customs. " Our beds and bed rooms were perfectly comfortable, andeven elegant. 

The moat which encircles, not only the castle, but the town--and which musthave been once formidable from its depth and breadth, when filled withwater--is now most pleasingly metamorphosed. Pasture lands, kitchengardens, and orchards, occupy it entirely. Here the cattle quietly stray, and luxuriously feed. But the metamorphosis of the _castle_ has been, in anequal degree, unfortunate. The cannon balls, during the wars of theLeague--and the fury of the populace, with the cupidity or caprice ofsome individuals, during the late revolution--helped to produce thischange. After breakfast, I felt a strong desire to survey carefully thescite and structure of the castle. It was a lovely day; and in fiveminutes I obtained admission at a temporary outer gate. The first nearview within the ramparts perfectly enchanted me. The situation is atonce bold, commanding, and picturesque. But as the opposite, andimmediately contiguous ground, is perhaps yet a little higher, it shouldfollow that a force, placed upon such eminence--as indeed was that ofHenry the Fourth, during the wars of the League--would in the end subduethe garrison, or demolish the castle. I walked here and there amidstbriars and brushwood, diversified with lilacs and laburnums; and by theaid of the guide soon got within an old room--of which the outer wallsonly remained--and which is distinguished by being called the_birth-place_ of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. 

Between ourselves, the castle appears to be at least a century later thanthe time of William the Conqueror; and certainly the fine round tower, ofwhich such frequent mention has been made, is rather of the fourteenth, ifnot of the beginning of the fifteenth century;[167] but it is a noble pieceof masonry. The stone is of a close grain and beautiful colour, and thecomponent parts are put together with a hard cement, and with the smallestpossible interstices. At the top of it, on the left side, facing the highroad from Vire, --and constructed within the very walls themselves, is a_well_--which goes from the top apparently to the very bottom of thefoundation, quite to the bed of the moat. It is about three feet indiameter, measuring with the eye; perhaps four: but it is doubtless a verycurious piece of workmanship. We viewed with an inquisitive eye whatremained of the _Donjon_: sighed, as we surveyed the ruins of the_chapel_--a very interesting little piece of ecclesiastical antiquity:and shuddered as we contemplated the enormous and ponderousportcullis--which had a _drop of_ full twenty feet ... To keep out theinvading foe. I was in truth delighted with this first reconnoissance ofFALAISE--beneath one of the brightest and bluest skies of Normandy!and--within walls, which were justly considered to be among the mostperfect as well as the most ancient of those in Normandy. 

Leaving my companion to take a view of the upper part of this venerablebuilding, I retreated towards the town--resolved to leave no church and nostreet unexplored. On descending, and quitting the gate by which I hadentered, a fine, robust, and respectable figure, habited as anEcclesiastic, met and accosted me. I was most prompt to return thesalutation. "We are proud, Sir, of our castle, and I observe you have beenvisiting it. The English ought to take an interest in it, since it was thebirth-place of William the Conqueror. " I readily admitted it was well wortha minute examination: but as readily turned the conversation to the subjectof LIBRARIES. The amiable stranger (for he was gaining upon me fast, by hisunaffected manners and sensible remarks) answered, that "their _own_ publiclibrary existed no longer--having been made subservient to theinquisitorial visit of M. Moysant of Caen[168]: that he had himselfprocured for the Bishop of Bayeux the _Mentz Bible_ of 1462--and that theChapter-Library of Bayeux, before the Revolution, could not have containedfewer than 40, 000 volumes. "But you are doubtless acquainted, Sir, with theCOMTE DE LA FRESNAYE, who resides in yonder large mansion?"--pointing to ahouse upon an elevated spot on the other side of the town. I replied that Ihad not that honour; and was indeed an utter stranger to every inhabitantof Falaise. I then stated, in as few and precise words as possible, theparticular object of my visit to the Continent. "Cela suffit"--resumed theunknown--"nous irons faire visite à Monsieur le Comte après le diné; à cemoment il s'occupe avec le pôtage--car c'est un jour maigre. Il sera charméde vous recevoir. Il aime infiniment les Anglois, et il a resté long-tempschez vous. C'est un brave homme--et même un grand antiquaire. "

My pulse and colour increased sensibly as the stranger uttered these latterwords: and he concluded by telling me that he was himself the Curé of _Ste. Trinité_ one of the two principal churches of the town--and that his namewas MOUTON. Be assured that I shall not lose sight of the Comte de laFresnaye, and Monsieur Mouton. 

[166] [Only ONE letter has passed between us since my departure; and that enables me to subjoin a fac-simile of its author's autograph. 

 [Autograph: de Larenaudiere]

[167] [It was in fact built by the famous Lord Talbot, about the year 1420. A similar castle, but less strong and lofty, may be seen at Castor, near Yarmouth in Norfolk--once the seat of the famous Sir JOHN FASTOLF, (a contemporary with Talbot) of whom Anstis treats so fully in his _Order of the Garter_, vol. I. P. 142. ]

[168] See p. 205 ante. 

LETTER XX. 

MONS. MOUTON. CHURCH OF STE. TRINITÉ. COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE. GUIBRAY CHURCH. SUPPOSED HEAD OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. M. LANGEVIN, HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. PRINTING OFFICES. 

I lose no time in the fulfilment of my promise. The church of SAINTETRINITÉ, of which Monsieur Mouton is the Curé, is the second place ofworship in rank in the town. During the Revolution, Mons. Mouton wascompelled, with too many of his professional brethren, to fly from thegeneral persecution of his order. One solitary and most amiable creatureonly remained; of the name of LANGEVIN--of whom, by and by, Monsieur Moutondid me the honour of shewing me the interior of his church. His stipend (ashe told me) did not exceed 1500 francs per annum; and it is reallysurprising to observe to what apparent acts of generosity towards hisflock, this income is made subservient. You shall hear. The altar consistsof two angels of the size of life, kneeling very gracefully, in whiteglazed plaister: in the centre, somewhat raised above, is a figure of theVirgin, of the same materials; above which again, is a representation ofthe TRINITY--in a blaze of gilt. The massive circular columns surroundingthe choir--probably of the fourteenth century--were just fresh painted, atthe expense of the worthy Curé, in alternate colours of blue andyellow--imitative of marble;--that is to say, each column, alternately, wasblue and yellow. It was impossible to behold any thing more glaring andmore tasteless. I paid my little tribute of admiration at the simplicityand grace of the kneeling figure of the Virgin--but was stubbornly silentabout every thing else. Monsieur Mouton replied that "he intended to gracethe brows of the angels by putting a _garland_ round each. " I felt a sortof twinge upon receiving this intelligence; but there is no persuading theFrench to reject, or to qualify, their excessive fondness for flowerornaments. 

Projecting from the wall, behind the circular part of the choir, I observeda figure of _St. Sebastian_--precisely of that character which we remark inthe printed missals of the fifteenth century, --and from which the engraversof that period copied them: namely, with the head large, the body meagre, and the limbs loose and muscular. It was plentifully covered, as was thewhole surface of the wall, with recent white wash. On observing this, myguide added: "oui, et je veux le faire couvrir d'une teinte encore plusblanche!" Here I felt a second twinge yet more powerful than the first. Inoticed, towards the south-side door, a very fine crucifix, cut in wood, about three feet high; and apparently of the time of Goujon. It was by muchthe finest piece of sculpture, of its kind, which I had seen in Normandy;but it was rather in a decaying state. I wished to know whether such anobject of art--apparently of no earthly importance, where it wassituated--might be obtained for some honourable and adequate compensation. Monsieur Mouton replied that he desired to part with it--but that it mustbe replaced by another "full six feet high!" There was no meeting thisproposition, and I ceased to say another word upon the subject. 

Upon the whole, the church of the Holy Trinity is rather a fine andcapacious, than a venerable edifice; and although I cannot conscientiouslyapprove of the beautifying and repairing which are going on therein, yet Iwill do the _planner_ the justice to say, that a more gentlemanly, liberally-minded, and truly amiable clergyman is perhaps no where to befound, --within or without the diocese to which he belongs. Attached to thenorth transept or side door, parallel with the street, is a long pole. "What might this mean?" "Sir, this pole was crowned at the top by agarland, and by the white flag of _St. Louis_, [169]--which were hoisted toreceive me on my return from my long expatriation"--and the eyes of thenarrator were suffused with tears, as he made the answer! It is of noconsequence how small the income of an unmarried minister, may be, when hethus lives so entirely in the HEARTS OF HIS FLOCK. This church bearsabundant evidence, within and without, of what is called the restoration ofthe Gothic order during the reign of Francis I. : although the mostessential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part of thefourteenth century. [170] Having expressed my admiration of the manufactureof wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had frequently observed inthe town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me into the sacristy (similar to ourvestry-room) begged I would do him the honour to accept of any which mightbe lying upon the table. These candles are made of the purest white wax: ofa spiral, or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable lengthand width. They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel ofvarious colours. Upon that which I chose, there were little rosettes madeof wax. The moderate sum for which they are obtained, startles anEnglishman who thinks of the high price of this article of trade in his owncountry. You see frequently, against the walls and pillars of the choir, fragments of these larger wax candles, guttering down and begrimed from theuses made of them in time of worship. In this sacristy there were twolittle boys swinging _wooden_ censers, by way of practice for the moreperfect use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar. Tomanage these adroitly--as the traveller is in the constant habit ofobserving during divine worship--is a matter of no very quick or easyattainment. 

From the Curé we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose pleasantlysituated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may remember, by theformer. Passing over one of the bridges, leading towards _Guibray_, andascending a gentle eminence to the left, I approached the outer lodge ofthis large and respectable-looking mansion. The Count and family were atdinner: but at _three_ they would rise from table. "Meanwhile, " said theporter, it might give me pleasure to walk in the garden. " It was one of theloveliest days imaginable. Such a sky--blue, bright, and cloudless--I hadscarcely before seen. The garden was almost suffocated with lilacs andlaburnums, glittering in their respective liveries of white, purple, andyellow. I stepped into a berceau--and sitting upon a bench, bethought me ofthe strange visit I was about to make--as well as of all the pleasingpastoral poetry and painting which I had read in the pages of De Lille, orviewed upon the canvas of Watteau. The clock of the church of _St. Gervais_struck three; when, starting from my reverie, I knocked at the hall-door, and was announced to the family, (who had just risen from dinner) abovestairs. A circle of five gentlemen would have alarmed a very nervousvisitor; but the Count, addressing me in a semi-British and semi-Gallicphraseology, immediately dissipated my fears. In five minutes he was madeacquainted with the cause of this apparent intrusion. 

Nothing could exceed his amiable frankness. The very choicest wine wascirculated at his table; of which I partook in a more decided manner on thefollowing day--when he was so good as to invite me to dine. When I touchedupon his favourite theme of Norman Antiquities, he almost shouted aloud thename of INGULPH, --that "cher ami de Guillaume le Conquérant!" I wasunwilling to trespass long; but I soon found the advantage of making use ofthe name of "Monsieur Mouton--l'estimable Curé de la Sainte Trinité. "

[Illustration]

In a stroll to Guibray, towards sunset the next day, I passed through aconsiderable portion of the Count's property, about 300 acres, chiefly ofpasture land. The evening was really enchanting; and through the branchesof the coppice wood the sun seemed to be setting in a bed of molten gold. Our conversation was animated and incessant. In the old and curious churchof Guibray, the Count shewed us his family pew with the care andparticularity of an old country squire. Meanwhile Mr. Lewis was making ahasty copy of one of the very singular ornaments--representing _Christbearing his cross_--which was suspended against the walls of the altar of aside chapel. You have it here. It is frightfully barbarous, andcharacteristic of the capricious style of art which frequently prevailedabout the year 1520: but the wonder is, how such a wretched performancecould obtain admission into the sanctuary where it was deposited. It washowever the pious gift of the vestry woman--who shewed us the interior--andwho had religiously rescued it, during the Revolution, from the demolitionof a neighbouring abbey. The eastern end of this church is perhaps as oldas any ecclesiastical edifice in Normandy;[171] and its exterior (to whichwe could only approach by wading through rank grass as high as our knees)is one of the most interesting of its kind. During our admiration of allthat was curious in this venerable edifice, we were struck by our oldfriends, the _penitents_, --busy in making confession. In more than oneconfessional there were two penitents; and towards one of these, thusdoubly attended, I saw a very large, athletic, hard-visaged priesthastening, just having slipt on his surplice in the vestry. Indeed I hadbeen cursorily introduced to him by the Count. It was Saturday evening, andthe ensuing Sunday was to be marked by some grand procession. 

The village-like town of Guibray presents a most singular sight to the eyeof a stranger. There are numerous little narrow streets, with every windowclosed by wooden shutters, and every door fastened. It appears as if theplague had recently raged there, and that the inhabitants had quitted itfor ever. Not a creature is visible: not a sound is heard: not a mouseseems to be stirring. And yet Guibray boasts of the LARGEST FAIR in France, save one![172] This, my friend, precisely accounts for the aspect ofdesolation just described. During the intervals of these _triennial_ fairs, the greater part of the village is uninhabited: venders and purchasersflocking and crowding by hundreds when they take place. In a short, narrowstreet--where nothing animated was to be seen--the Count assured me thatsometimes, in the course of one morning, several millions of francs werespent in the purchase of different wares. We left this very strange placewith our minds occupied by a variety of reflections: but at any rate highlypleased and gratified by the agreeable family which had performed the partof guides on the occasion. In the evening, a professor of music treated uswith some pleasing tunes upon the guitar--which utterly astonished theCount--and it was quite night-fall when we returned homewards, towards ourquarters at the hotel of the _Grand Turc_. 

A memorable incident occurred in our way homewards; which, when made known, will probably agitate the minds and shake the faith of two-thirds of themembers of our Society of Antiquaries. You may remember that I told you, when at Caen, that the Abbe De la Rue had notified to me what were theobjects more particularly deserving of attention in my further progressthrough Normandy. Among these, he particularly mentioned a figure or headof William the Conqueror at Falaise. In the _Place St. Gervais_, thiswonderful head was said to exist--and to exist there only. It was at thehouse of an Innkeeper--certainly not moving in the highest circle of hiscalling. I lost little time in visiting it; and found it situated at thetop of a dark narrow staircase, projecting from the wall, to the right, just before you reach the first floor. Some sensation had been excited bythe enquiries, which I had previously set on foot; and on a second visit, several people were collected to receive us. Lights, warm water, towels, soap and brushes, were quickly put in requisition. I commenced operationswith a kitchen knife, by carefully scraping away all the layers of hardenedwhite and ochre washes, with which each generation had embedded and almostobliterated every feature. By degrees, the hair became manifest: thenfollowed the operation of soap and water--which brought out the features ofthe face; and when the eyes fully and distinctly appeared, the exclamationof "_Mon Dieu_!" by the spectators, was loud and unremitting. The nose hadreceived a serious injury by having its end broken off. Anon, stood forththe mouth; and when the "whiskered majesty" of the beard became evident, itwas quite impossible to repress the simultaneous ejaculation of joy andastonishment ... "_Voilà le vrai portrait de Guillaume le Conquérant_!

The whiskers apparently denote it to be rather _Saxon_ than _Norman_. Thehead is nearly eleven inches in length, by seven and a half in width: iscut upon a very coarse, yet hard-grained stone--and rests upon a square, unconnected stone:--embedded within the wall. If it ever had shoulders andbody, those shoulders and body were no part of the present appendages ofthe head. What then, is the Abbé de la Rue in error? The more liberalinference will be, that the Abbé de la Rue had never seen it. As to itsantiquity, I am prepared to admit it to be very considerable; and, if youplease, even before the period of the loves of the father and mother of thecharacter whom it is supposed to represent. In the morning, Madame Rolleseemed disposed to take ten louis (which I freely offered her) for herprecious fragment: but the distinct, collected view of whiskers, mouth, nose, eyes, and hair, instantaneously raised the quicksilver of herexpectations to "_quinze_ louis pour le moins!" That was infinitely "tropfort"--and we parted without coming to any terms. Perhaps you will laugh atme for the previous offer. 

The church of St. Gervais is called the mother church of the town: and itis right that you should have some notion of it. It stands upon a finelyelevated situation. Its interior is rather capacious: but it has no verygrand effect-arising from simplicity or breadth of architecture. Thepillars to the right of the nave, on entering from the western extremity, are doubtless old; perhaps of the beginning of the thirteenth century. Thearches are a flattened semicircle; while those on the opposite side arecomparatively sharp, and of a considerably later period. The ornaments ofthe capitals of these older pillars are, some of them, sufficientlycapricious and elaborate; while others are of a more exceptionablecharacter on the score of indelicacy. But this does not surprise a man whohas been accustomed to examine ART, of the middle centuries, whether insculpture or in painting. The side aisles are comparatively modern. Thepillars of the choir have scarcely any capitals beyond a simple rim orfillet; and are surmounted by sharp low arches, like what are to be seen atSt. Lo and Coutances. The roof of the left side aisle is perfectly greenfrom damp: the result, as at Coutances, of thereof having been stripped forthe sake of the lead to make bullets, &c. During the Revolution. I saw thislarge church completely filled on Sunday, at morning service--about eleven:and, in the congregation, I observed several faces and figures, of bothsexes, which indicated great intelligence and respectability. Indeed therewas much of the air of a London congregation about the whole. 

From the Church, we may fairly make any thing but a digression--indiscoursing of one of its brightest ornaments, in the person of MonsieurLANGEVIN:--a simple priest--as he styles himself in an octavo volume, whichentitles him to the character of the best living HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. Heis a mere officiating minister in the church of Mons. Mouton; and hissalary, as he led me to infer, could be scarcely twenty louis per annum. Surely this man is among the most amiable and excellent of God's creatures!But it is right that you should know the origin and progress of ouracquaintance. It was after dinner, on one of the most industriously spentof my days here--and the very second of my arrival, --that the waiterannounced the arrival of the Abbé Langevin, in the passage, with a copy ofhis History beneath his arm. The door opened, and in walked thestranger--habited in his clerical garb--with a physiognomy so benign andexpressive, and with manners so gentle and well-bred, --that I roseinstinctively from my seat to give him the most cordial reception. Hereturned my civility in a way which shewed at once that he was a man of themost interesting simplicity of character. "He was aware (he said) that hehad intruded; but as he understood "Monsieur was in pursuit of theantiquities of the place, he had presumed to offer for his acceptance acopy of a work upon that subject--of which he was the humble author. " Thiswork was a good sized thick crown octavo, filling five hundred closely andwell-printed pages; and of which the price was _fifty sous_! The worthypriest, seeing my surprise on his mentioning the price, supposed that I hadconsidered it as rather extravagant. But this error was rectified in aninstant. I ordered _three copies_ of his historical labours, and told himmy conscience would not allow me to pay him less than _three francs_ percopy. He seemed to be electrified: rose from his seat:--and lifting up oneof the most expressive of countenances, with eyes apparently suffused withtears--raised both his hands, and exclaimed.... "Que le bon Dieu vousbénisse--les Anglois sont vraiement généreux!"

For several seconds I sat riveted to my seat. Such an unfeigned and warmacknowledgment of what I had considered as a mere matter-of-courseproposition, perfectly astounded me: the more so, as it was accompanied bya gesture and articulation which could not fail to move any bosom--notabsolutely composed of marble. We each rallied, and resumed theconversation. In few but simple words he told me his history. He hadcontrived to weather out the Revolution, at Falaise. His former prefermenthad been wholly taken from him; and he was now a simple assistant in thechurch of Mons. Mouton. He had yielded without resistance; as even_remonstrance_ would have been probably followed up by the guillotine. Tosolace himself in his afflictions, he had recourse to his old favouritestudies of _medicine_ and _music_;--and had in fact practised the former. "But come, Sir, (says he) come and do me the honour of a call--when itshall suit you. " I settled it for the ensuing day. On breaking up andtaking leave, the amiable stranger modestly spoke of his History. It hadcost him three years' toil; and he seemed to mention, with an air oftriumph, the frequent references in it to the _Gallia Christiana_, and to_Chartularies_ and _Family Records_ never before examined. On the next dayI carried my projected visit into execution--towards seven in the evening. The lodgings of M. Langevin are on the second floor of a house belonging toa carpenter. The worthy priest received me on the landing-place, in themost cheerful and chatty manner. He has three small rooms on the samefloor. In the first, his library is deposited. On my asking him to let mesee what _old books_ he possessed, he turned gaily round, andreplied--"Comment donc, Monsieur, vous aimez les vieux livres? A ça, voyons!" Whereupon he pulled away certain strips or pieces of wainscot, andshewed me his book-treasures within the recesses. On my recognising a_Colinæus_ and _Henry Stephen_, ere he had read the title of the volumes, he seemed to marvel exceedingly, and to gaze at me as a conjuror. Hebetrayed more than ordinary satisfaction on shewing his _Latin Galen_ and_Hippocrates_; and the former, to the best of my recollection, containedLatin notes in the margin, written by himself. These tomes were followed upby a few upon _alchymy_ and _astrology_; from which, and the consequentconversation, I was led to infer that the amiable possessor entertained duerespect for those studies which had ravished our DEES and ASHMOLES of old. 

In the second room stood an upright piano forte--the _manufacture_, as wellas the property, of Monsieur Langevin. It bore the date of 1806; and wasconsidered as the first of the kind introduced into Normandy. It wasimpossible not to be struck with the various rational sources of amusement, by means of which this estimable character had contrived to beguile thehours of his misfortunes. There was a calm, collected, serenity of mannerabout him--a most unfeigned and unqualified resignation to the divinewill--which marked him as an object at once of admiration and esteem. There was no boast--no cant--no formal sermonising. You _saw_ whatreligion had done for him. Her effects _spake_ in his discourse and inhis life.... Over his piano hung a portrait of himself; veryindifferently executed--and not strongly resembling the original. "Wecan do something more faithful than this, sir, if you will allowit"--said I, pointing to Mr. Lewis: and it was agreed that he shouldgive the latter a sitting on the morrow. The next day M. Langevin camepunctually to his appointment, for the purpose of having his portraittaken. 

On telling this original that the pencil drawing of Mr. Lewis (which by thebye was executed in about an hour and a half) should be_engraved_--inasmuch as he was the modern _Historian of Falaise_--he seemedabsolutely astonished. He moved a few paces gently forwards, and turninground, with hands and eyes elevated, exclaimed, in a tremulous andheart-stricken tone of voice, "Ah, mon Dieu!" I will not dissemble that Itook leave of him with tears, which were with difficulty concealed. "Adieu, pour toujours!"--were words which he uttered with all the sincerity, andwith yet more pathos, than was even shewn by Pierre Aimé Lair at Caen. Thelandlord and landlady of this hotel are warm in their commendations of him:assuring me that his name is hardly ever pronounced without the mention ofhis virtues. He has just entered his sixty-second year. [173]

It remains only to give an account of the progress of Printing and ofLiterature in this place: although the latter ought to precede the former. As a literary man, our worthy acquaintance the Comte de la Fresnaye takesthe lead: yet he is rather an amateur than a professed critic. He haswritten upon the antiquities of the town; but his work is justly consideredinferior to that of Monsieur Langevin. He quotes _Wace_ frequently, andwith apparent satisfaction; and he promises a French version of his beloved_Ingulph_. Falaise is a quiet, dull place of resort, for those who formtheir notions of retirement as connected with the occasional bustle andanimation of Caen and Rouen. But the situation is pleasing. The skies areserene: the temperature is mild, and the fruits of the earth are abundantand nutritious. Many of the more respectable inhabitants expressed theirsurprise to me that there were so few English resident in itsneighbourhood--so much preferable, on many accounts to that of Caen. Butour countrymen, you know, are sometimes a little capricious in the objectsof their choice. Just now, it is the _fashion_ for the English to reside atCaen; yet when you consider that the major part of our countrymen residethere for the purpose of educating their children--and that Caen, from itsnumerous seminaries of education, contains masters of every description, whose lessons are sometimes as low as a frank for each--it is notsurprising that Falaise is deserted for the former place. For myself--andfor all those who love a select society, a sweet country, and rather aplentiful sprinkle of antiquarian art, --for such, in short, who would readthe fabliaux of the old Norman bards in peace, comfort, and silence--therecan be no question about the preference to be given to the spot from whichI send this my last Norman despatch. 

I have before made mention of the fountains in this place. They are equallynumerous and clear. The inn in which we reside has not fewer than threefountains--or rather of _jets d'eau_--constantly playing. Those in the_Place St. Trinité Grand Rue_, and _Place St. Gervais_, are the largest;but every gutter trickles with water as if dissolved from the purestcrystal. It has been hot weather during the greater part of our stay; andthe very sight of these translucent streams seems to refresh one's languidframe. But I proceed chiefly to the productions of the PRESS. They do agood deal of business here in the way of ephemeral publications. Letellier, situated in the Grande Rue, is the chief printer of _chap books_: and if wejudge from the general character of these, the _Falaisois_ seem to bemarvellously addicted to the effusions of the muse. Indeed, their ballads, of all kinds, are innumerable. Read a few--which are to be found in thevery commonest publications. There is something rather original, and of avery pleasingly tender cast, in the first two:

 LE BAISER D'ADIEUX. 

 Pres de toi l'heuré du mystère Ne m'appellera plus demain, Vers ta demeure solitaire Mes pas me guideront en vain; J'ai respiré ta douce haleine, Et des pleurs ont mouillé mes yeux, J'ai tout senti, plaisir et peine, ) J'ai reçu ton baiser d'adieux. ) _bis. _

 Tu pars, et malgré ta promesse Rien ne m'assure de ta foi, Nul souvenir de ta tendresse Ne vient me dire: Pense à moi. Ton amour qu'envain je réclame Ne me laisse, en quittant ces lieux, Que Phumide et brulante flamme De ton dernier baiser d'adieux. 

 Puisse au moins ton indifférence Te garder d'un nouvel amour. Et le veuvage de l'absence Hâter ton fortuné retour! Puisse alors l'amant qui t'adore, Te revoyant aux mêmes lieux, Sur tes lèvres vierges encore Retrouver son baiser d'adieux!

 * * * * *

 L'IMAGE DE LA VIE. 

 Nous naissons et dans notre coeur, A peine aux portes de la vie, Tout au plaisir, tout au bonheur, Et nous invite et nous convie; D'abord, simples amusements Savent contenter notre enfance; Mais bientòt aux jeux innocens, L'amour nous prend ... Sans qu'on y pense. 

 Fillette à l'âge de quinze ans, Offre l'image de la rose, Qui dès l'approche du printemps, Entr'ouvre sa feuille mi-close; Bientôt l'aiguillon du désir Vient ouvrir fleur d'innocence, Et sous la bouche du plaisir, Elle s'éclôt ... Sans qu'elle y pense. 

 Vous, qui pendant vos jeunes ans, Ne courtisez pas la folie, Songez donc que cet heureux temps Ne dure pas toute la vie, Assez vite il nous faut quitter Tendres ardeurs, vives jouissances; Et dans uu coeur qui sait aimer, La raison vient ... Sans qu'on y pense. 

 Mais enfin, sur l'âile du temps, On arrive au but du voyage, Et l'on voit la glace des ans, Couronner nos fronts à cet âge; S'il fut sensible à la pitié, S'il cultiva la bienfaisance, Entre les bras de l'amitié L'homme finit ... Sans qu'il y pense

You must know that they are here great lovers of royalty, and of coursegreat supporters of the Bourbon Family. The King's printer is a Mons. BRÉEl'Ainé. He is a very pleasant, well-bred man, and lives in the _PlaceTrinité_. I have paid him more than one visit, and always felt additionalpleasure at every repetition of it. My first visit was marked with asomewhat ludicrous circumstance. On entering the compositors' room, Iobserved, pasted upon the walls, in large capital letters, the followingwell known words:

 GOD SAVE THE KING. 

Both Monsieur Brée l'Ainé--and his workmen were equally gratified by mynotice and commendation of this sentiment. "It is the favourite sentiment, Sir, of your country, "--remarked the master. To this I readily assented. "It is also, Sir, the favourite one of our own, " replied M. Bréel'Ainé--and his men readily attested their concurrence in the same reply. "Ah, Sir, if you would only favour us by _singing the air_, to which thesewords belong, you would infinitely oblige us all" ... Said a shrewd andintelligent-looking compositor. "With all my heart"--rejoined I--"but Imust frankly tell you, that I shall sing it rather with heart than withvoice--being neither a vocal nor an instrumental performer. " "No matter:give us only a notion of it. " They all stood round in a circle, and I gotthrough two stanzas as gravely and as efficiently as I was able. The usual"charmant!" followed my exertions. It was now my turn to ask a favour. "Sing to me your favourite national air of ROBERT and ARLETTE. " "Mostwillingly, Sir, " replied the forementioned "shrewd and intelligent-lookingcompositor. " "Tenez: un petit moment: je vais chercher mon violon. Ca iramieux. "

He left the house in search of his violin. The tune of the National airwhich he sung was both agreeable and lively: and upon the whole it wasdifficult to say which seemed to be the better pleased with the respectivenational airs. M. Brée shewed me his premises in detail. They had beenformerly a portion of an old church; and are situated on the edge of thegreat fosse which encircles the town. A garden, full of sweet bloomingflowers, is behind them; and the view backwards is cheerful andpicturesque. There are generally five presses at work; which, for aprovincial printing office, shews business to be far from slack. Mons. B. Sells a great number of almanacks, and prints all the leading publicationsconnected with the town. In fact, his title, as _Imprimeur du Roi_, supposes him to take the principal lead as a printer. This agreeable manhas a brother who is professor of rhetoric in the Collège Royale at Paris. 

Of _Bouquinistes_, or dealers in old books, there are scarcely any. I spentthree or four fruitless hours in a search after old chronicles and oldpoetry: and was compelled, almost from pure civility, to purchase ofDUFOURS a _Petit's Virgil_ of 1529, folio--which will be hardly worth thecarriage. I tried hard for a fine copy of _Fauchet's Origines de la PoésieFrançoise_, 1581, 4to. With the head of the author, but in vain; yetendeavoured to console myself by an old blue morocco copy of _Les regretset tristes lamentations du Comte de Montgomery_, by _Demorenne_, Rouen, 1574, 8vo. As well as a clean, fresh, and almost crackling copy of_Amoureuses occupations de la Taysonniere_, Lyon, 1555, 8vo. --for twofrancs each--and both destined for the rich and choice library of ourfriend.... 

Thus much for FALAISE: for a spot, which, from the uniform serenity of theweather since I have been here--from the comfort of the inn--from theextreme civility and attention of the townspeople--and from the yet moreinteresting society of the Comte de la Fresnaye, the _Curés_ Mouton andLangevin--together with the amenity of the surrounding country, and theinteresting and in part magnificent remains of antiquity--can never beerased from my recollection. It is here that the tourist and antiquary mayfind objects for admiration and materials for recording. I have done both:admired and recorded--happy, if the result of such occupations shall havecontributed to the substantial gratification of yourself and of our commonfriends. And now, farewell; not only to Falaise, but to NORMANDY. I shallleave it, from this delightful spot, in the most thorough good humour, andwith more than ordinary regret that my stay has necessarily been short. Ihave taken my place in the Diligence, direct for PARIS. "Il n'y a qu'unParis"--said the Comte de la Fresnaye to me the other day, when I told himI had never been there--to which I replied, "Are there then TWO Londons?"Thirty-six hours will settle all this. In the mean time, adieu. 

[169] On the return of Louis the XVIII. The town of Falaise manifested its loyalty in the most unequivocal manner. 

 COUPLETS

 _Chantés par les Elèves du Collége de Falaise, en arborant le Drapeau Blanc_. 

 Air: _Un Soldat par un coup funeste_. 

 Loin de nous la sombre tristesse, Mars a déposé sa fureur; Enfin la foudre vengeresse Vient de terrasser _l'opresseur, _ L'aigle sanguinaire Succombe à l'aspect de ces LYS. Peuple français, tu vas revoir ton Père! Vive le Roi! Vive LOUIS!

 Drapeau, que d'horribles tempêtes Avoient éloigné de ces lieux, Tu reviens embellir nos Fêtes, Plus brillant et plus radieux! Ta douce présence Ramène les jeux et les ris; Sois à jamais l'Etendard de la France, Vive le Roi! vive LOUIS!

 O Dieu! vengeur de l'innocence, Protège ces LYS glorieux! Conserve long-temps à la France LE ROI que tu rends à nos voeux! Si la perfidie De nouveau troubloit ton bonheur Viens nous guider, ô Bannière chérie! Nous volerons au champ d'honneur. 

[170] The worthy historian of Falaise, quoted in a preceding page, is exceedingly anxious to make us believe that there are portions of this church--namely, four stones--in the eastern and western gable ends--which were used in the consecration of it, by MATHILDA, the wife of our first William. Also, that, at the gable end of the south transept, outside, an ancient grotto, --in which the Gallic priests of old purified themselves for the mysteries of their religion--is now converted into the sacristy, or vestry, or robing room. But these are surely mere antiquarian dreams. The same author more sagaciously informs us that the exact period of the commencement of the building of the nave, namely in 1438, is yet attested by an existing inscription, in gothic letters, towards the chief door of entrance. The inscription also testifies that in the same year, "there reigned DEATH, WAR, and FAMINE. " The _chancel of the choir_, with the principal doors of entrance, &c. Were constructed between the years 1520, and 1540. It may be worth remarking that the stalls of the choir were brought from the Abbey of St. John--on the destruction of that monastic establishment in 1729; and that, according to the _Gallia Christiana_, vol. Xi. P. 756, these stalls were carved at the desire of Thomas II. De Mallebiche, abbot of that establishment in 1506-1516. In a double niche of the south buttress are the statues of HERPIN and his WIFE; rich citizens of Falaise, who, by their wealth, greatly contributed to the building of the choir. (Their grandson, HERPIN LACHENAYE, together with his mistress were killed, side by side, in fighting at one of the gates of Falaise to repel the successful troops of Henry IV. ) The _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir, was completed about the year 1631. LANGEVIN, p. 81-128-131. 

[171] We have of course nothing to do with the first erection of a place of worship at Guibray in the VIIIth century. The story connected with the earliest erection is this. The faubourg of Guibray, distant about 900 paces from Falaise, was formerly covered with chestnut and oak trees. A sheep, scratching the earth, as if by natural instinct (I quote the words of M. Langevin the historian of Falaise) indicated, by its bleatings, that something was beneath. The shepherd approached, and hollowing out the earth with his crook, discovered a statue of the Virgin, with a child in its arms. The first church, dedicated to the Virgin, under the reign of Charles Martel, called the Victorious, was in consequence erected--on this very spot--in the centre of this widely spreading wood of chestnut and oak. I hasten to the construction of a second church, on the same site, under the auspices of Mathilda, the wife of the Conqueror: with the statue of a woman with a diadem upon her head--near one of the pillars: upon which statue Langevin discourses learnedly in a note. But neither this church nor the statue in question are now in existence. On the contrary, the oldest portions of the church of Guibray, now existing--according to the authors of the _Gallia Christiana_, vol. Xi. P. 878, and an ancient MS. Consulted by M. Langevin--are of about the date of 1222; when the church was consecrated by the Bishop of Coutances. The open space towards the south, now called _La Place aux Chevaux_, was the old burying ground of the church. There was also a chapel, dedicated to St. Gervais, which was pillaged and destroyed by the Hugonots in 1562. I should add, that the South-East exterior (behind the chancel) of this very curious old church at Guibray, resembles, upon a small scale, what M. Cotman has published of the same portion of St. Georges de Bocherville. _Recherches sur Falaise_, p. 49-53. Monsieur le Comte de la Fresnaye, in his _Notice Historique sur Falaise_, 1816, 8vo. Will have it, that "the porch of this church, the only unmutilated portion remaining of its ancient structure, demonstrates the epoch of the origin of Christianity among the Gauls. " "At least, such is the decision of M. Deveze, draftsman for Laborde; the latter of whom now Secretary to the Count d'Artois, instituted a close examination of the whole fabric. " p. 5-6. I hope there are not many such conclusions to be found in the magnificent and meritorious productions of LABORDE. 

[172] This fair lasts full fifteen days. The first eight days are devoted to business of a more important nature--which they call the GREAT WEEK: that is to say, the greatest number of merchants attend during the earlier part of it; and contracts of greater extent necessarily take place. The remaining seven days are called the LITTLE WEEK--in which they make arrangements to carry their previous bargains into effect, and to return home. Men and merchandise, from all quarters, and of all descriptions, are to be seen at this fair. Even Holland and Germany are not wanting in sending their commercial representatives. Jewellery and grocery seem to be the chief articles of commerce; but there is a prodigious display of silk, linen, and cotton, &c. : as well as of hides, raw and tanned; porcelaine and earthen ware. The live cattle market must not be forgotten. Langevin says that, of horses alone, they sometimes sell full four thousand. Thus much for the buyer and seller. But this fair is regularly enlivened by an immense confluence of nobility and gentry from the adjacent country--to partake of the amusements, which, (as with the English, ) form the invariable appendages of the scene. Langevin mentions the minor fairs of _Ste. Croix, St. Michel_, and _St. Gervais_, which help to bring wealth into the pockets of the inhabitants. _Recherches Historiques sur Falaise_; p. 199, &c. 

[173] [Since the publication of this Tour, the amiable Mons. Langevin has published "additions" to his historical account of Falaise; and in those additions, he has been pleased to notice the account which is HERE given of his labours and character. It would be bad--at least hardly justifiable--taste, to quote that notice: yet I cannot dissemble the satisfaction to find that there is _more_ than ONE sympathising heart in Normandy, which appreciates this record of its excellence. I subjoin, therefore, with the greatest satisfaction, a fac-simile of the autograph of this amiable and learned man, as it appears written (at my request) in the title-page of a copy of his "Researches. "

 [Illustration: Langevin ptre. ]

LETTER XXI. 

JOURNEY TO PARIS. DREUX. HOUDAN. VERSAILLES. ENTRANCE INTO PARIS. 

_Paris, Rue Faubourg Poissonière, May_ 30, 1819. 

"Time and the hour runs through the roughest day. " They must be protactedmiseries indeed which do not, at some period or other, have something likea termination. I am here, then my good friend--safe and sound at last;comfortably situated in a boarding house, of which the mistress is anagreeable Englishwoman and the master an intelligent Swiss. I havesauntered, gazed, and wondered--and exchanged a thousand graciouscivilities! I have delivered my epistolary credentials: have shaken handswith Monsieur Van Praet; have paced the suite of rooms in which therenowned BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI is deposited: have traversed the _Thuileries_and the _Louvre_; repeatedly reconnoitred the _Boulevards_; viewed the giltdome of the _Hôtel des Invalides_, and the white flag upon thebronze-pillar in the _Place Vendome_; seen crowds of our countrymen at_Meurice's_ and in the hotels about the _Rue de la Paix;_ partaken of therival ices of _Tortoni_ and the _Caffé des Mille Colonnes_; bought oldFrench poetry at a Bouquiniste's: and drank Chambertin and Champagne at therichly garnished table of our ----. These are what may be called good_foreground objects_ in the composition of a Parisian picture. Now for thefilling up of the canvas with appropriate and harmonizing detail. 

A second reflection corrects however the precipitancy of such a proposal;for it cannot be, in this my _first_ despatch, that you are to receive anything like an adequate notion of the topics thus hastily thrown together onthe first impulse of Parisian inspiration. Wait patiently, therefore: andat least admire the methodical precision of my narrative. My last letterleft me on the eve of departure from Falaise; and it is precisely from thatplace that I take up the thread of my journal. We were to leave it, as Itold you, in the Diligence--on the evening of the Sunday, immediatelyfollowing the date of the despatch transmitted. I shall have reason toremember that journey for many a day to come; but, "post varios casus, &c. "I am thankful to find myself safely settled in my present comfortableabode. The Sabbath, on the evening of which the Diligence usually startsfor Paris, happened to be a festival. Before dawn of day I heard incessantjuvenile voices beneath the window of my bedroom at the Grand Turc; Whatmight this mean? Between three and four, as the day began to break, I rose, and approaching the window, saw, from thence, a number of little boys andgirls busied in making artificial flower-beds and sand-borders, &c. Theirtongues and their bodily movements were equally unintermitting. It wasimpossible for a stranger to guess at the meaning of such a proceeding;but, opening the window, I thought there could be no harm in asking a verysimple question--which I will confess to you was put in rather an irritablemanner on my part ... For I had been annoyed by their labours for more thanthe last hour. "What are you about, there?" I exclaimed--"Ha, is it youSir?" replied a little arch boy--mistaking me for some one else. "Yes, (resumed I) tell me what you are about there?" "in truth, we are making_Réposoirs_ for the FETE-DIEU: the Host will pass this way by and bye. Isit not a pretty thing, Sir?" exclaimed a sweetly modulated female voice. All my irritability was softened in a moment; and I was instantly convincedthat Solomon never delivered a wiser sentiment than when he said--"A softanswer turneth away wrath!" I admitted the prettiness of the thing withoutcomprehending a particle of it: and telling them to speak in a lower key, shut the window, and sought my bed. But sleep had ceased to seek me: andthe little urchins, instead of lowering their voices, seemed to break forthin a more general and incessant vociferation. In consequence, I was almostfeverish from restlessness--when the fille de chambre announced that "itwas eight o'clock, and the morning most beautiful. "

These _réposoirs_ are of more importance than you are aware of. Theyconsist of little spots, or spaces in the streets, garnished with flowers, and intersected by walks, marked with fine gravel, in the centre of whichthe Host rests, on its passing to and fro from the several parishes. When Irose to dress, I observed the work of art--which had been in progressduring the night--perfectly complete. Passengers were forbidden to trespassby pieces of string fastened to different parts by way of a fence--or, whoever chose to walk within, considered themselves bound to deposit a sousas the condition of gratifying their curiosity. Upon the whole, thisréposoir might be about sixteen feet square. Towards eleven o'clock thedifferent religious ceremonies began. On one side the noise of the drum, and the march of the national guard, indicated that military mass was aboutto be performed; on the other, the procession of priests, robed andofficiating--the elevation of banners--and the sonorous responses of bothlaity and clergy--put the whole town into agitation, and made every inmateof every mansion thrust his head out of window, to gaze at the passingspectacle. We were among the latter denomination of lookers on, andrecognised, with no small gratification, our clerical friends MessieursMouton, Langevin, and the huge father confessor at Guibra, followed by agreat number of respectable citizens, among whom the Comte de la Fresnayeand his amiable and intelligent son (recently married) made mostrespectable figures; They approached the réposoir in question. The priests, with the Host, took their station within it; silence followed; oneofficiating clergyman then knelt down; shut, what seemed to be, the woodencovers of a book, --with, considerable violence--rose--turned round, and theprocession being again put in motion--the whole marched away to the churchof the Holy Trinity;--whither I followed it; and where I witnessed what Iwas unable to comprehend, and what I should not feel much disposed toimitate. But let every country be allowed to reverence and respect its ownparticular religious ceremonies. We may endure what we cannot commend ... And insult and disrespect are among the last actions which a well regulatedmind will shew in its treatment of such matters. I should add, that theseréposoirs, a few hours after the performance of the ceremony justdescribed, are indiscriminately broken up: the flowers and the little sandbanks falling equally a prey to the winds and the feet of the passenger. 

Opposite to the inn was an hospital for the female sick. It had beenformerly an establishment of very considerable extent and celebrity; butwhether it was originally connected with the hospital of the _Léproserie deSaint Lasare_, (about which the Abbé Langevin's History of Falaise israther curious) the _Hôtel-Dieu_, or the _Hôpital Général_, I cannot takeupon me to pronounce. Certain it is, however, that this establishment doesgreat credit to those who have the conduct of it. As foreigners, andparticularly as Englishmen, we were permitted to see the whole, withoutreserve. On my return from witnessing the ceremony at the church of theTrinity, I visited this hospital: my companion having resumed his graphicoperations before the Castle. I shall not easily forget the face and figureof the matron. To a countenance of masculine feature, and masculinecomplexion--including no ordinary growth of beard, of a raven tint--sheadded a sturdy, squat, muscular figure--which, when put into action, movedin a most decided manner. A large bunch of massive keys was suspended froma girdle at her side; and her dress, which was black, was rendered morecharacteristic and striking, by the appearance of, what are yet called, _bustles_ above her hips. As she moved, the keys and the floor seemedequally to shake beneath her steps. The elder Smirke would have paintedthis severe Duenna-like looking matron with inimitable force and truth. But ... She no sooner opened her mouth, than all traits of severityvanished. Her voice was even musical, and her "façon de parler" mostgracious. She shewed me the whole establishment with equal good humourand alertness; and I don't know when I ever made such a number of bows(to the several female patients in the wards) within such limited timeand space. The whole building has the air of a convent; and there wereseveral architectural relics, perhaps of the end of the fifteenthcentury, which I only regretted were not of portable dimensions; as, upon making enquiry, little objection seemed to be made to thegratuitous disposal of them. 

The hour for departure, after sun-set, having arrived, we were summoned tothe Diligence when, bidding adieu to the very worthy host and hostess ofthe _Grand Turc_, (whom I strongly recommend all Englishmen to visit) Imade up my mind for a thirty-six hour's journey--as I was to reach Paris onTuesday morning. The day had been excessively hot for the season of theyear; and the night air was refreshing. But after a few snatches ofsleep--greatly needed--there appeared manifest symptoms of decay anddownfall in the gloomy and comfortless machine in which we took ourdeparture. In other words, towards daylight, and just as we approached_L'Aigle_, the left braces (which proved to be thoroughly rotted leather)broke in two: and down slid, rather than tumbled, the Falaise Diligence!There were two French gentlemen, and an elderly lady, besides ourselves inthe coach. While we halted, in order to repair the machine, the Frenchmenfound consolation in their misfortune by running to a caffé, (it wasbetween four and five in the morning), rousing the master and mistress, andas I thought, peremptorily and impertinently asking for coffee: while theyamused themselves with billiards during its preparation. I was in no humourfor eating, drinking, or playing: for here was a second sleepless night!Having repaired this crazy vehicle, we rumbled on for _Verneuil_; where itwas exchanged for a diligence of more capacious dimensions. Here, abouteleven o'clock, we had breakfast; and from henceforth let it not be saidthat the art of eating and drinking belongs exclusively to ourcountry:--for such manifestations of appetite, and of attack uponsubstantials as well as fluids, I had scarcely ever before witnessed. I waswell contented with coffee, tea, eggs, and bread--as who might not wellbe?... But my companions, after taking these in flank, cut through thecentre of a roast fowl and a dish of stewed veal: making diversions, in themean while, upon sundry bottles of red and white wine; the fingers, duringthe meal, being as instrumental as the white metal forks. 

We set off at a good round trot for _Dreux_: and, in the route thither, weascended a long and steep hill, having _Nonancourt_ to the left. Here wesaw some very pretty country houses, and the whole landscape had an air ofEnglish comfort and picturesque beauty about it. Here, too, for the firsttime, I saw a VINEYARD. At this early season of the year it has a moststiff and unseemly look; presenting to the eye scarcely any thing but thebrown sticks, obliquely put into the ground, against which the vine istrained. But the sloping banks, on each side of the ascending road, werecovered with plantations of this precious tree; and I was told that, if the_autumn_ should prove as auspicious as appeared the _spring_, there wouldbe a season of equal gaiety and abundance. I wished it with all my heart. Indeed I felt particularly interested in the whole aspect of the countryabout _Nonancourt_. The sun was fast descending as we entered the town of_Dreux_--where I had resolved upon taking leave both of the diligence andof my companions; and of reaching Paris by post. At seven we dined, orrather perhaps made an early supper; when my fellow travellers _sustained_their reputation for their powers of attack upon fish, flesh, and fowl. Indeed the dinner was equally plentiful and well cooked; and the chargemoderate in proportion. But there is nothing, either on the score ofprovision of reasonableness of cost, like the _table d'hôte_ throughoutFrance; and he who cannot accommodate himself to the hour of dining(usually about one) must make up his mind to worse fare and treble charges. 

After dinner we strolled in the town, and upon the heights near the castle. We visited the principal church, _St. Jean_, which is very spacious, andupon the whole is a fine piece of architecture. I speak more particularlyof the interior--where I witnessed, however, some of the most horribledevastations, arising from the Revolution, which I had yet seen. In one ofthe side chapels, there _had been_ a magnificent monument; perhaps fromsixteen to twenty feet in height--crowded with figures as large as life, from the base to the summit. It appeared as if some trenchant instrument ofan irresistible force, had shaved away many of the figures; but moreespecially the heads and the arms. This was only one, but the moststriking, specimen of revolutionary Vandalism. There were plenty of similarproofs, on a reduced scale. In the midst of these traces of recent havoc, there was a pleasure mingled with melancholy, in looking up and viewingsome exceedingly pretty specimens of old stained glass:--which had escapedthe destruction committed in the lower regions, and had preserved all theiroriginal freshness. Here and there, in the side chapels, the priests wererobing themselves to attend confession; while the suppliants, in kneelingattitudes, were expecting them by the side of the confessionals. From thechurch I bent my steps to the principal bookseller of the place, whom Ifound to be an intelligent, civil, and extremely good-natured tradesman. But his stock was too modern. "Donnez vous la peine de monter"--exclaimedhe precipitately; begging me to follow him. His up-stairs collection wasscarcely of a more ancient character than that below. There were morecopies of _Voltaire_ and _Rousseau_ than I should have supposed he couldsell in six years--but "on the contrary" (said he) "in six months' time, not a single copy will remain unsold!" I marvelled and grieved at suchintelligence; because the poison was not extracted from the nourishmentcontained in these works. To an enquiry about my old typographical friends, _Verard, Pigouchet_, and _Eustace_, the worthy bibliopole replied "qu'iln'avoit jamais entendu parler de ces gens-la!" Again I marvelled; andhaving no temptation to purchase, civilly wished him good evening. 

Meanwhile Mr. L. Had attained the castle heights, and was lost in a sort ofextacy at the surrounding scene. On entering the outer walls, and directingyour steps towards the summit, you are enchanted with a beautifularchitectural specimen--in the character of a zigzag early Normanarch--which had originally belonged to a small church, recently taken down:The arch alone stands insulated ... Beyond which, a new, and apparently avery handsome, church is erecting, chiefly under the care and at theexpence of the present Duke of Orleans;--as a mausoleum for his family--andin which, not many days before our arrival, the remains of one of hischildren had been deposited. I wished greatly for a perfect drawing of thisarch ... But there was no time ... And my companion was exercising hispencil, on the summit, by a minute, bird's eye of the sweep of country tobe seen from this elevated situation--through the greater part of which, indeed, the diligence from _Verneuil_ had recently conducted us. I shouldadd, that not a relic of that CASTLE, which had once kept the town and theadjacent country in awe, is now to be seen: but its outer walls enclose aspace hardly less than twenty acres:--the most considerable area which Ihad yet witnessed. To give a more interesting character to the scenery, thesun, broad and red, was just hiding the lower limb of his disk behind theedge of a purple hill. A quiet, mellow effect reigned throughout thelandscape. I gazed on all sides; and (wherefore, I cannot now say) as Isunk upon the grass, overwhelmed with fatigue and the lassitude of twosleepless nights, wished, in my heart, I could have seen the effect of thatglorious sun-set from, the heights of Dover. Now and then, as when atschool, one feels a little home-sick; but the melancholy mood which thenpossessed me was purely a physical effect from a physical cause. Theshadows of evening began to succeed to the glow of sun-set--when, startingfrom my recumbent position, (in which sleep was beginning to surprise me) Ihastened down the heights, and by a nearer direction sought the town andour hotel. We retired betimes to rest--but not until, from an oppositecoach maker, we had secured a phaeton-like carriage to convey us with posthorses, the next day, to Paris. 

Excellent beds and undisturbed slumber put me in spirits for the grandentrée into the metropolis of France. Breakfasting a little afternine--before ten, a pair of powerful black horses, one of which wassurmounted by a sprucely-attired postilion--with the phaeton in therear--were at the door of the hotel. Seeing all our baggage properlysecured, we sprung into the conveyance and darted forward at a smartgallop. The animals seemed as if they could fly away with us--and the whipof the postilion made innumerable circular flourishes above their heads. The sky was beautifully clear: and a briskly-stirring, but not unpleasantlypenetrating, south-east wind, played in our faces as we seemed scarcely tobe sensible of the road. What a contrast to the heat, vexation, and generaluncomfortableness of the two preceding days of our journey! We felt itsensibly, and enjoyed it in proportion. Our first place of halting, tochange horses, was at HOUDAN; which may be about four leagues from Dreux;and I verily believe we reached it in an hour. The route thither is througha flat and uninteresting country; except that every feature of landscape(and more especially in our previous journeys through Normandy) seems to bethrown to a greater distance, than in England. This may account for theflatness of views, and the diminutiveness of objects. Houdan is avillage-like town, containing a population of about 2000 inhabitants; butmuch business is done on market days; and of _corn_, in particular, I wastold that they often sold several thousand sacks in a day. Its contiguityto Paris may account for the quantity of business done. In the outskirts ofthe town, --and flanked, rather than surrounded, by two or three rows oftrees, of scarcely three years growth--stands the "stiff and stower"remains of the _Castle of Houdan_. It is a very interesting relic, and toour eyes appeared of an unusual construction. The corner towers are smalland circular; and the intermediate portion of the outer wall is constructedwith a swell, or a small curvature outwards. I paced the outside, but haveforgotten the measurement. Certainly, it is not more than forty feetsquare. I tried to gain admittance into the interior, but without success, as the person possessing the key was not to be found. I saw enough, however, to convince me that the walls could not be less than twelve feetin thickness. 

The horses had been some time in readiness, and the fresh postilion seemedto be lost in amazement at the cause of our loitering so long at soinsignificant a place. The day warmed as we pushed on for the far-famed"proud Versailles. " The approach, from Houdan, is perhaps not the mostfavourable; although we got peeps of the palace, which gave us ratherelevated notions of its enormous extent. We drove to the _Hôtel deBourbon_, an excellent, clean mansion, close to the very façade of thepalace, after passing the Hôtel de Ville; and from whence you have anundisturbed view of the broad, wide, direct road to Paris. I bespokedinner, and prepared to lounge. The palace--of which I purposely declinedvisiting the interior--reserving Versailles for a future and entire day'sgratification--is doubtless an immense fabric--of which the façade justmentioned is composed of brick, and assumes any thing but a grand andimposing air: merely because it wants simplicity and uniformity of design. I observed some charming white stone houses, scattered on each side of thiswidely extended chaussée--or route royale--and, upon the whole, Versaillesappeared to us to be a magnificent and rather interesting spot. Two orthree rows of trees, some forty or fifty generations more ancient thanthose constituting the boulevards at Houdan, formed avenues on each side ofthis noble road; and all appeared life and animation--savouring of theproximity of the metropolis. Carriages without number--chiefly upon hire, were going and returning; and the gaits and dresses of individuals were ofa more studied and of a gayer aspect. At length, we became a littleimpatient for our dinner, and for the moment of our departure. We hired oneof these carriages; which for nine francs, would convey us to the place ofour destination. This appeared to me very reasonable; and after beingextravagant enough to drink Champagne at dinner, to commemorate our nearapproach to the metropolis, we set forward between five and six o'clock, resolving to strain our eyes to the utmost, and to be astonished at everything we saw!--especially as _this_ is considered the most favourableapproach to the capital. 

The _Ecole Militaire_, to the left, of which Marshal Ney had once the chiefcommand, struck me as a noble establishment. But it was on approaching_Sèvre_ that all the bustle and population, attendant upon the immediatevicinity of a great metropolis, became evident. Single-horsed vehicles--inmany of which not fewer than nine persons were pretty closely stowed--threeupon a bench, and three benches under the roof--fiacres, barouches, andcarriages of every description, among which we discovered a great numberfrom our own country--did not fail to occupy our unremitting attention. _Sèvre_ is a long, rambling, and chiefly single-street town; butpicturesquely situated, on a slope, and ornamented to the left by thewindings of the Seine. We were downright glad to renew our acquaintancewith our old, and long-lost friend, the river Seine; although it appearedto be sadly shorn of its majestic breadth since we had parted with itbefore the walls of Montmorenci castle, in our route to Havre. The newnine-arch bridge at Sèvre is a sort of Waterloo bridge in miniature. Uponthe heights, above it, I learnt that there was a beautiful view of theriver in the foreground with Paris in the distance. We passed over the oldbridge, and saw _St. Cloud_ to the left: which of course interested us asthe late residence of Bonaparte, but which, in truth, has nothing beyondthe air of a large respectable country-gentleman's mansion in England. Wepushed on, and began to have distinct perceptions of the great city. Of allthe desirable places of retreat, whether for its elevated situation, orrespectable appearance, or commodious neighbourhood, nothing struck me moreforcibly than the village of PASSY, upon a commanding terrace, to the left;some three or four English miles from Paris--and having a noble view bothof the river and of the city. It is also considered to be remarkablyhealthy; and carriages of every description, are constantly passing thitherto and from Paris. 

The dome of the _Pantheon_, and the gilded one of the _Hôtel desInvalides_, together with the stunted towers of _Notre Dame_, were amongthe chief objects to the right: while the accompaniment of the Seine, afforded a pleasing foreground to this architectural picture in thedistance. But, my friend, I will frankly own to you, that I wasdisappointed ... Upon this first glimpse of the GREAT city. In the firstplace, the surrounding country is flat; with the exception of _MountCalvary, _ to the left, which has nothing to do with the metropolitan viewfrom this situation. In the second place, what are the _Pantheon_ and_Notre Dame_ compared with _St. Paul's_ and _Westminster Abbey_?--to saynothing of the vicinity of London, as is connected with the beautifullyundulating ground about Camberwell, Sydenham, Norwood, and. Shooter'sHill--and, on the other side of the water, Hampstead, Highgate andHarrow: again, Wimbledon and Richmond!... What lovely vicinities arethese compared with that of _Mont Martre_? And if you take river sceneryinto the account, what is the _Seine_, in the neighbourhood of Paris, compared with the _Thames_ in that of London? If the almost impenetrablesmoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away--shew me, I beseechyou, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of approach, whichshall presume to bear the semblance of comparison with that of London, from the descent from _Shooter's Hill_! The most bewitchedFrenchified-Englishman, in the perfect possession of his eye sight, willnot have the temerity to institute such a comparison. But as you nearthe barriers, your admiration increases. Having got rid of allbackground of country--as you approach the capital--the foregoingobjections vanish. Here the officers of police affected to search ourluggage. They were heartily welcome, and so I told them. This disarmedall suspicion. Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest andone of the most celebrated of its Boulevards--the _Champs Elysées_. Aswe gained the _Place Louis Quinze_, with the _Thuileries_ in front, withthe _Hôtel des Invalides_ (the gilded dome of which latter reflected thestrong rays of a setting sun) to the right--we were much struck withthis combination of architectural splendour: indisputably much superiorto any similar display on the entrance into our own capital. [174]Turning to the left, the _Place Vendome_ and the _Rue de la Paix_, withthe extreme height of the houses, and the stone materials of theirconstruction, completed our admiration. But the _BoulevardsItaliens_--after passing the pillars of the proposed church of _Ste. Madelaine_, and turning to the right--helped to prolong our extremegratification, till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you. Doubtless, at first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city. A particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next despatch. I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted with thetreasures of PAST TIMES--in the shape of Manuscripts and printed Books. THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the CURATORS of it havecharmed me by their extreme kindness and civility. [175]

[174] [The above was written in 1818-19. Now, what would be said by a foreigner, of his first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent Street to the stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland Place?]

[175] At this point, the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease; and I will let him take leave of his task of translation in his own words. "Ici se termine la tache qui m'a été confiée. Après avoir réfuté franchement tout ce qui m'a semblé digne de lêtre, je crois devoir déclarer, en finissant, que mes observations n'ont jamais eu _la personne_ pour objet. Je reste persuadé, d'ailleurs, que le coeur de M. D. Est tout-à-fait innocent des écarts de son esprit. Si l'on peut le condamner pour le fait, il faudra toujours l'absoudre pour l'intention.... " The _concluding_-sentence need not be copied: it is bad taste to re-echo the notices of one's own good qualities. 

 My Norman translator at least takes leave of me with the grace of a gentleman: although his thrusts have been occasionally direct and severely intended. The foil which he has used has not always had the button covered. The candid reader will, however, judge how these thrusts have been parried; and if the "hits" on the part of my adversary, have been sometimes "palpable, " those of the original author will not (it is presumed) be deemed feeble or unimpressive. After all, the sum total of "Errata" scarcely includes THREE of _substantial moment_: and wishing Mons Licquet "a very good day, " I desire nothing better than to renew our critical coqueting on the floor of that Library of which he is the "Bibliothècaire en Chef. "

END OF VOL. I. 

London: Printed by W. Nicol, Cleveland-row, St. James's. 

SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. I. 

OLD POEM ON THE SIEGE OF ROUEN. 

The city of Rouen makes too considerable a figure in the foregoing pages, and its history, as connected with our own country in the earlier part ofthe fifteenth century, is too interesting, to require any thing in theshape of apology for the matter which the Reader is about to peruse. This"matter" is necessarily incidental to the _present_ edition of the "Tour;"as it is only recently made public. An "_Old English Poem_" on our Henrythe Fifth's "_Siege of Rouen_" is a theme likely to excite the attention ofthe literary Antiquary on _either_ side of the Channel. 

The late erudite, and ever to be lamented Rev. J. J. Conybeare, successivelyProfessor of the Saxon language, and of English Poetry in the University ofOxford, discovered, in the exhaustless treasures of the Bodleian Library, aportion of the Old English Poem in question: but it was a portion only. Inthe 21st. Vol. Of the Archæologia, Mr. Conybeare gave an account of thisfortunate discovery, and subjoined the poetical fragment. Mr. FrederickMadden, one of the Librarians attached to the MS. Department in the BritishMuseum, was perhaps yet more fortunate in the discovery of the portionwhich was lost: and in the 22d. Vol. Of the _Archæologia_, just published, (pp. 350-398), he has annexed an abstract of the remaining fragment, withcopious and learned notes. This fragment had found its way, in a proseattire, into the well-known English MS. Chronicle, called theBRUTE:--usually (but most absurdly) attributed to Caxton. It is not howeverto be found in _all_ the copies of this Chronicle. On the contrary, Mr. Madden, after an examination of several copies of this MS. Has found thepoem only in four of them: namely, in two among the Harleian MSS. (Nos. 753; 2256--from which _his_ transcript and collation have been made) in onebelonging to Mr. Coke of Holkham, and in a fourth belonging to the _Cotton_Collection:--Galba E. Viii. This latter MS. Has a very close correspondencewith the _second_ Harl. MS. But is often faulty from errors of the Scribe, See _Gentleman's Magazine, May_, 1829. 

So much for the history of the discovery of this precious old EnglishPoem--which is allowed to be a contemporaneous production of the time ofthe Siege--namely, A. D. 1418. A word as to its intrinsic worth--from thetestimony of the Critic most competent to appreciate it. "It will beadmitted, I believe, (says Mr. Madden) by all who will take the troubleto compare the various contemporary narratives of the Siege of Rouen, that in point of simplicity, clearness, and minuteness of detail, thereis NO existing document which can COMPARE with the Poem before us. Itsauthenticity is sufficiently established, from the fact of the Author'shaving been an EYEWITNESS of the whole. If we review the names of thoseHistorians who lived at the same period, we shall have abundant reasonto rejoice at so valuable an accession to our present stock ofinformation on the subject. " _Archæologia_, vol. Xxii. P. 353. Thereader shall be no longer detained from a specimen or two of the poemitself, which should seem fully to justify the eulogy of the Critic. 

"On the day after the return of the twelve delegates sent by the City ofRouen to treat with Henry, the Poet proceeds to inform us, that the Kingcaused two tents to be pitched, one for the English Commissioners, and theother for the French. On the English side were appointed the Earl ofWarwick, the Earl of Salisbury, the Lord Fitzhugh, and Sir WalterHungerford, and on the French side, twelve discreet persons were chosen tomeet them. Then says the writer, 'It was a sight of solempnity, For to behold both party; To see the rich in their array, And on the walls the people that lay, And on our people that were without, How thick that they walked about; And the heraudis seemly to seene, How that they went ay between; The king's heraudis and pursuivants, In coats of arms _amyantis_. The English a beast, the French a flower, Of Portyngale both castle and tower, And other coats of diversity, As lords bearen in their degree. '

"As a striking contrast to this display of pomp and splendour is describedthe deplorable condition of those unfortunate inhabitants who lay starvingin the ditches without the walls of the City, deprived both of food andclothing. The affecting and simple relation of our Poet, who was aneye-witness, is written with that display of feeling such a scene mustnaturally have excited, and affords perhaps one of the most favourablepassages in the Poem to compare with the studied narratives of Elmham orLivius. In the first instance we behold misery literally in rags, andhiding herself in silence and obscurity, whilst in the other she isostentatiously paraded before our eyes:

 'There men might see a great pity, A child of two year or three Go about, and bid his bread, For Father and mother both lay dead, And under them the water stood, And yet they lay crying after food. Some _storven_ to the death, And some stopped both eyen and breath, And some crooked in the knees, And as lean as any trees, And women holding in their arm A dead child, and nothing warm, And children sucking on the pap Within a dead woman's lap. '

On Friday the 20th of January, King Henry V. Made his public entry intoRouen. His personal appearance is thus described:

 'He rode upon a brown steed, Of black damask was his weed, A _Peytrelle_ of gold full bright About his neck hung down right, And a pendant behind him did honge Unto the earth, it was so long. And they that never before him did see, They knew by the cheer which was he. '

"With the accustomed, but mistaken, piety for which Henry was everdistinguished, he first proceeded to the monastery, where he alighted fromhis charger, and was met by the chaplains of his household, who walkedbefore him, chanting _Quis est magnus Dominus?_ After the celebration ofmass, the king repaired to the Castle, where he took up his abode. By thistermination of a siege, which, for its duration and the horrors itproduced, is perhaps without a parallel in ancient or modern times, thecity was again plentifully supplied with provisions, and recovered theshock so tedious and afflicting a contest had occasioned:

 'And thus our gracious liege Made an end of his siege; And all that have heard this reading, To his bliss Christ you bring, That for us died upon a tree, Amen say we all, _pur charite!_'

The Duke of Exeter is appointed Governor of the City, and ordered by Henryto take possession of it the same night. The Duke mounts his horse, andrides strait to the Port de Bevesyne or Beauvais, attended by a retinue, tocarry the commands of his sovereign into execution. His Entré, and thetruly miserable condition of the besieged, together with the imposingappearance of Henry, shall now be described in the language of the poet. 

 Thanne the duke of Excestre withoute bode Toke his hors and forth he rode, To bevesyne[E] that porte so stronge, That he hadde ley bifore so longe, To that gate sone he kam, [F] And with hym many a worthy[G] manne. There was neying of many a stede, And schynyng of many a gay wede, There was many a getoun[H] gay, With mychille[I] and grete aray. And whanne the gate was openyd there, And thay weren[J] redy into fare, Trumpis[K] blewgh her bemys[L] of bras, Pipis and clarionys forsothe ther was, And as thay entrid thay gaf a schowte With her[M] voyce that was fulle stowte, 'Seint George! seint George!' thay criden[N] on height, And seide, 'welcome oure kynges righte. ' The Frensshe pepulle of that Cite Were gederid by thousandes, hem to see. Thay criden[N] alle welcome in fere, 'In siche tyme mote ye entre here, Plesyng to God that it may be, And to vs pees and vnyte. ' And of that pepulle, to telle the trewthe, It was a sighte of fulle grete ruthe. Mykelle of that folke therynne Thay weren[O] but verrey bonys and skynne. With eyen holowgh and[P] nose scharpe, Vnnethe thay myght brethe or carpe, For her colowris was[Q] wan as lede, Not like to lyue but sone ben dede. Disfigurid pateronys[R] and quaynte, And as[S] a dede kyng thay weren paynte. There men myght see an[T] exampleyre, How fode makith the pepulle faire. [U] In euery strete summe lay dede, And hundriddis krying aftir brede. And aftir long many a day, Thay deyde as[V] faste as[W] they myght be lad away. Into[X] that way God hem wisse, That thay may come to his blisse! amen. Now[Y] wille y more spelle, And of the duke of exestre to[Z] telle. To that Castelle firste he rode, And sythen[AA] the Cite alle abrode; Lengthe and brede he it mette, And rich baneris he[AB] vp sette. Vpon the porte seint Hillare A Baner of the Trynyte. And at[AC] the port Kaux he sette evene A baner of the quene of heven. And at[AD] port martvile he vppyght Of seint George a baner bryght. He sette vpon the Castelle to[AE] stonde The armys of Fr[a]unce and Englond. And on the Friday in the mornynge Into that Cite come oure kynge. And alle the Bisshoppis in her aray, And vij. Abbottis with Crucchis[AF] gay; xlij. [AG] crossis ther were of Religioune[AH], And seculere, and alle thay went a precessioun, Agens that prince withoute the toune, And euery Cros as thay stode He blessid hem with milde mode, And holy water with her hande Thay gaf the prince of oure lande. And at[AI] the porte Kaux so wide He in passid withoute[AJ] pride; Withoute pipe or bemys blaste, Our kyng worthyly he in paste. And as a conquerour in his righte Thankyng[AK] euer god almyghte; And alle the pepulle in that Citie 'Wilcome our[AL] lorde, ' thay seide, 'so fre! Wilcome into[AM] thyne owne righte, As it is the[AN] wille of[AO] god almyght. ' With that thay kryde alle _'nowelle!_' Os[AP] heighe as thay myght yelle. He rode vpon a browne stede, Of blak damaske was his wede. A peytrelle[AQ] of golde fulle bryght Aboute his necke hynge[AR] doun right, And a pendaunte behynd him dide[AS] honge Vnto the erthe, it was so longe, And thay that neuer before hym dide[AT] see, Thay knew by chere[u] wiche was he. To the mynster dide he fare, And of his horse he lighte there. His chapelle[AU] mette hym at[AV] the dore there, And wente bifore[AW] hym alle in fere, And songe a response[AX] fulle glorivs, _Quis est magnus dominus_. Messe he hirde and offrid thoo, And thanne to the Castelle dide he goo. That is a place of rialte, And a paleis of grete beaute. There he hym[AY] loggid in the Toune, With rialle and grete renoune. And the[AZ] cite dide faste encrece Of brede and wyne, fisshe, and fflesshe. [BA] And thus oure gracious liege Made an ende of his seege. And alle that[BB] haue hirde this redynge[BC] To his[BD] blisse criste you brynge, That for vs deide vpon[BE] a tre, Amen sey[BF] we alle, pur cherite!

_There was many a getoun gay_. ] The following particulars relative to the_getoun_ appear in MS. Harl. 838. "Euery baronet euery estat aboue hym shalhave hys baner displeyd in y'e field yf he be chyef capteyn, euery knyghthis penoun, euery squier or gentleman hys _getoun_ or standard. " "Item, y'emeyst lawfully fle fro y'e standard and _getoun_, but not fro y'e baner nepenon. ". "Nota, a stremer shal stand in a top of a schyp or in y'efore-castel: a stremer shal be slyt and so shal a standard as welle as a_getoun_: a _getoun_ shal berr y'e length of ij yardes, a standard of iiior 4 yardes, and a stremer of xii. Xx. Xl. Or lx. Yardes longe. "

This account is confirmed by MS. Harl. 2258, and Lansd. 225. F. 431. Asquoted by Mr. Nicholas, in the Retrosp. Rev. Vol. I. N. S. The former ofthese MSS. States: Euery standard and _Guydhome_ [whence the etymology ofthe word is obvious] to have in the chief the crosse of St. George, to beslitte at the ende, and to conteyne the creste or supporter, with theposey, worde, and devise of the owner. " It adds, that "a guydhome must betwo yardes and a halfe, or three yardes longe. " This rule may sometimeshave been neglected, at least by artists, for in a bill of expences for theEarl of Warwick, dated July 1437, and printed by Dugdale, (Warw. P. 327. )we find the following entry; "Item, a _gyton_ for the shippe of viij. Yerdis long, poudrid full of raggid staves, for the lymnyng andworkmanship, ijs. " The Grant of a _guydon_ made in 1491 to Hugh Vaughan, ispreserved in the College of Arms. It contains his crest placedlongitudinally. _Retrospective Review, New Series_, vol. I. P. 511. 

[E] _bewesyns_. 

[F] _came_. 

[G] _worthy_ deest. 

[H] A species of banner or streamer. See Note. 

[I] _noble_. 

[J] _were_. 

[K] Trumpeters. 

[L] Trumpets. 

[M] _that_. 

[N] cryed. 

[O] _were_. 

[P] _with nose_. 

[Q] _were_. 

[R] _patrons_. --Workmens' models or figures. _Patrone_, forme to werke by. _Prompt. Parvul_. MS. Harl. 221. There is probably here an allusion to the waxen or wooden effigies placed on the hearse of distinguished personages. 

[S] _as dede thyng they were peynte_. 

[T] _in_. 

[U] _to fare_. 

[V] as _deest_. 

[W] _as cartes led awey_. 

[X] _Vnto_. 

[Y] In MS. Harl. 753, a break is here made, and a large capital letter introduced. 

[Z] _to_ deest. 

[AA] _sithe_. 

[AB] _vp he_. 

[AC] _atte porte kauxoz_. 

[AD] _atte_ porte. 

[AE] _that stounde_. 

[AF] Crosses. 

[AG] xliiij. 

[AH] _religiouns_. 

[AI] _atte porte hauxoz_. 

[AJ] The remainder, of this, and the two following lines are omitted. 

[AK] _Thanked_. 

[AL] _they seyde our lord so free_. 

[AM] _vnto_. 

[AN] _the_ deest. 

[AO] _to_. 

[AP] _As_. 

[AQ] Poitrell, breast plate. 

[AR] _hangyng_. 

[AS] _dide_ deest. 

[AT] _the_ chere. 

[AU] The chaplains of his household. Lat. _capella_. 

[AV] _atte_ dore, _there_ deest. 

[AW] _afore_. 

[AX] _respon. _

[AY] _logged hym. _

[AZ] _his cite fast encrest_. 

[BA] _beste_. 

[BB] _that_ deest. 

[BC] _tydyng_. 

[BD] _his_ deest. 

[BE] on. 

[BF] _seyde all for charitee_. 

BRONZE GILT ANTIQUE STATUE AT LILLEBONNE, p. 127-8. 

This Statue, as the above reference will testify, is now in the possessionof Mr. Samuel Woodburn, of St. Martin's Lane. When the note relating to itwas written, I could, not place my hand upon a Brochure (in my possession)published at Rouen in 1823, [176] containing an archaeological descriptionof this Statue by M. Revet, and a scientific account of its componentparts, by M. Houton La Billardière, Professor of Chemistry at Rouen. Theformer embodied his remarks in two letters addressed to the Prefect of theLower Seine. A print of the figure in its then extremely mutilated state, is prefixed; but its omission would have been no great drawback to thepublication--which, in its details, appears to be ingenious, learned, andsatisfactory. The highest praise is given to the Statue, as a work of artof the second century. [177] Its _identity_ seems to be yet a subject ofdisputation:--but M. Revet considers it as "the representation of someidolatrous divinity. " The opinion of its being a representation of Bacchus, or of Apollo, or of a Constellation, he thinks might be regulated by adiscovery of some emblem, or attribute, found in the vicinity of theStatue. Two other plates--lithographised--relating to explanations of thepieces of the Statue, close this interesting performance. 

[176] "_Description de la, Statue Fruste, en Bronze Doré, trouvée a Lillebonne &c. Suivie de l'Analyse du Métal, avec le dessein de la Statue, et les Tracés de quelques particularités relatives à la Confection de cette Antique. " Rouen, _ 1823. Pp. 56. 

[177] Other details induce me to fix the period of its completion towards the end of the second century: and after the unheard of difficulties which the artist had to overcome, one would scarcely be believed if one said that every thing is executed in a high state of perfection. " p. 34. 

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX. 

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, AND OF PRINTED BOOKS, DESCRIBED, QUOTED, OR REFERRED TO. 

 Vol Page_Æneas Sylvius de Duobus Amantibus_, no date, 4to. --inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 315

_Æsopus, Gr_. 4to. Edit. Prin. --in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 308

---- _Lat_. 1481, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 141

---- _Ital_. 1485, _Tuppi_, in the same libraryat Paris, ii 142

---- _Ital_. 1491 and 1492, 4to. --in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 308

---- _Hispan_. 1496, folio--in the Royal Library atParis, ii 142

---- _Germ. Without Date, &c_. , in the same library ii 142

---- ---- in the same library, ii 142

_Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard_, 1492, folio--UPON VELLUM--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 134

_Albert Durer_; original drawings of, in a Book ofPrayers, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 132

_Alcuinus de Trinitate, Monast. Utimpurrha_, 1500, folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 101

_Aldine Classics_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 145

---- ----, in the Library of St. Geneviève, ii 177

---- ----, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 41

---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 146

_Alexandrus Gallus_, vulgo _de Villa Dei Doctrinale Vde Spira_, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 315

_Almanac historique--le Messager Boiteux_--a chap book, extracts from, iii 73

_Anti-Christ--block book_--in the Public Library atLandshut, iii 181

_Ambrosii Hexameron_, 1472, folio--in the PublicLibrary at Augsbourg, iii 99

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 430

_Amours, chasse et départ, Verard_, 1509, folio--UPONVELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 132

_Anthologia Græca_, 1498, 4to. --UPON VELLUM, in theLibrary of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 176

---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 145

_Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica_, 1477, _Koberger_, folio--in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 407

_Apocalypse, block book_, in the Royal Library atStuttgart, iii 26

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 331

_Apostles Creed_, in German, _block book_, withfac simile--in the Public Library at Munich, iii 137

_Appianus, Lat. Ratdolt_, 1478, folio--in the libraryof the Monastery of St. Florian, iii 236

_Apuleius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 128

---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg, iii 397

---- ----, imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 142

---- ----, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 308

---- ----, 1472, _Jenson_, folio--in the last mentionedlibrary, iii 308

_Aquinas, T. , Sec. Secundæ, Schoeffher_, 1467, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 316

----, _Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher_. 1469, folio--UPONVELLUM, in the same Library, iii 316

----, _In Evang. Matt, et Marc_. 1470, _S. AndPannartz_, folio--in the same library, iii 316

---- _de virtut. Et vitiis. Mentelin_--in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 141

_Arbre des Batailles, Verard_, 1493, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 132

_Aretinus de Bella Gothico_, 1470, folio--in the PublicLibrary at Caen, i 208

_Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus_, 1495, 6 vols. Two copiesUPON VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 136

---- _Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. (Aldus)--_ remarkablysplendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 138

_Ars Memorandi_, &c. --_block book_: five copies of, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 135

---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

---- -----in the Library of Göttwic Monastery, iii 428

_Ars Moriendi, Germanicé--4to_. -- in the Royal Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 26

---- _Lat. Block book_--two editions, in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 136

_Art de bien Mourir, Verard_, no date, folio--UPONVELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 133

_Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton_, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 124

ARTUS LE ROY; MS. Xiith century, --in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 94

Another MS. Of the same Romance, in the same Library, ii 94

_Artaxani Summa_, (1469) folio--in the Public Libraryat Augsbourg, iii 232

_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio--in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 113

---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris, ii 173

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 301

---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 397

---- ---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, 1470, folio, in thePublic Library at Vire, i 297

_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio, UPON VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, iii 221

---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

---- ---- _Schoeffher_, 1473; folio--in the Library of theMonastery of Chremsminster, iii 221

---- ---- _Jenson_, 1475, folio--UPON VELLUM, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 301

---- _Confessionum Libri XIII_. 1475. 4to. --in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 301

---- ---- _de singularitate Clericorum_, 1467, 4to. In theKing's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 40

AUGUSTINI STI. IN PSALMOS, MS. Xvth century--formerly in thelibrary of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in theRoyal Library at Stuttgart, iii 36

---- ---- _Yppon. De Cons. Evang_. 1473, folio--in thePublic Library at Augsbourg, iii 101

_Aulus Gellius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 127

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 308

Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ, 1468, Printed by Gunther Zeiner. _Pub. Lib. Augsbourg_, iii 100

_Ausonius_, 1472, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 128

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 309

---- ---- _Aldus_, 1517, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on largepaper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

_Aymon, les quatre filz_, 1583, 4to. --in the Libraryof the Arsenal, at Paris, ii 163

B. 

BALLADS; _Bon Jour, Bon Soir_: i 132 --_Toujours_, 389 various, from the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_, 292 -293 -294 _Vive Le Roi, Vive L'Amour_, i 310 _en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise_, i 324 _le Baiser d'Adieu_, i 343 _L'Image de la Vie_, i 344

_Bartholi Lectura de Spira_, 1471. Folio. In the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 316

_Bartsch, I. Adam de--Catalogue des Estampes, par, &c_. 1818. 8vo. Iii 393

_Bella (La) Mano_, 1474, 4to. --in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 321

_Bellovacensis Vinc. Spec. Hist_. 1473, folio--inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 317

_Berlinghieri, Geografia_, folio--in the ImperialLibrary (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, iii 321

_Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons_, no date, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 165

_Bessarionis Epistolæ_, (1469) folio--in theRoyal Library at Stuttgart, iii 24

BIBLIA LATINA, MS. Ixth century, of Charles the Bald--inthe Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plateengraving of that Monarch's portrait, ii 65

------ ------ XIIth century, in the same library, ii 67

------ ------ XVth century, of the _Emperor Wenceslaus_--inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 290

BIBLIA HIST. PARAPHRASTICA, MS. XVth century, ii 69

_Biblia Polyglotta Complut_. 1516, &c. In thePublic Library at Coutances, i 270

------ ------ copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 149

------ ------ 1521, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

------ ------ copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwardsthat of Eckius, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

------ ------ _Walton_; royal copy, in the PublicLibrary at Caen, i 211

------ ------ with the originaldedication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

------ ------ in the Libraryof the Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria, iii 237

_Biblia Polyglotta, Le Jay_: in the Library of the Lycéeat Bayeux i 245

------ _Hebraica, edit. Soncini_, 1488, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 303

_Biblia Hebraica edit. Houbigant_, 1753, in aPrivate Collection near Bayeux, i 235

---- ---- _Hahn_, 1806, in the Library of theMonastery of Closterneuburg, iii 396

---- _Græca, Aldus_, 1518, folio--Francis Ist's copy, upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

---- ---- _Aldus_, upon thick paper, in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 157

---- ---- the usual copy, in the King's Private Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 39

_Biblia Latina_, (_edit. Maz. 1455_) folio, 2 vols. , two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 106

---- ---- a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris, ii 190

---- ---- a copy in the Public Library at Munich, iii 139

---- ---- a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 302

---- ---- _Pfister_, (1461) folio, 3 vols. In the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 108

---- two copies, 1592, 1603, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 39

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 302

---- _Fust und Schoeffher_, 1462: folio--three copies, (two UPON VELLUM, and a third on paper) in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 154

---- ---- VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, ii 173

---- VELLUM COPY, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, ii 190

---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

---- ---- (imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 302

_Biblia Latina Mentelin_--in the Public Libraryat Strasbourg, ii 404

_Biblia Latino Mentelin_, in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 302

---- _Eggesteyn_, (ms. Date, 1468) in the PublicLibrary at Strasbourg, ii 404

---- ---- (ms. Date, 1466) in the Public Library at Munich, iii 141

---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 302

---- supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public Libraryat Strasbourg, iii 55

---- 1475, folio, _Frisner_, &c. --in the PublicLibrary at Augsbourg, iii 96

---- (1475 _edit. Gering_) imperfect copy in theChapter Library at Bayeux, i 244

---- _Hailbrun_, 1476, folio: two copies, of whichone is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 303

---- ---- _Jenson_, 1479, folio, in the Public Library atStrasbourg, ii 405

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--and asecond copy upon paper, iii 303

---- ---- 1485, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, i 208

---- ---- _Froben_, 1495, 8vo. In the Public Libraryat Vire, i 298

BIBLIA GERMANICA, MS. Of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 290

_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio--in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 108

---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 403

---- ---- two copies, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 21

---- ---- two copies in the Public Library at Munich, iii 140

---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 180

_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio, in the Library atClosterneuburg Monastery, iii 397

---- ---- in the Public Library at Ratisbon, _Supplement_, iii 418

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 431

---- ---- _supposed first edition_, in the Public Libraryat Landshut, iii 180

---- ---- _supposed first edition_, folio, in the Libraryof Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 397

_Biblia Germanica, Sorg. Augsbourg_, 1477, folio, inthe Library of the Monastery of St. Florian, iii 236

---- ---- _Peypus_, 1524, folio--UPON VELLUM, in thePublic Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

_Biblia Italica; Kalend. Augusti_, 1471--folio--inthe Mazarine Library, at Paris, ii 191

---- ---- imperfect copy, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

---- ---- _Kalend. Octobris_, 1471, folio--in the Libraryof Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 173

---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 303

_Bibl. Hist, Venet_. 1492, folio--copy purchased ofM. Fischeim at Munich, iii 154

_Biblia Bohemica_, 1488, folio--in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 109

---- _Polonica_, 1563, folio--in the same Library, ii 109

---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

---- ---- copy purchased by the Author at Augsbourg, iii 96

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 304

---- ---- 1599; folio--in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, ii 174

_Biblia Hungarica_, 1565, folio--incomplete, in theKing's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 39

---- _Sclavonica_, 1581, folio, in the Royal Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 22

---- ---- 1587, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 109

_Bible, La Sainte_, 1669, folio; large paper copy inthe Public Library of Caen, i 211

BIBLIA-HISTORICA, _MS. Versibus germanicis_, Sec. XIV. --in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 29

---- _Aurea. Lat. I. Zeiner_, 1474, folio--in theLibrary of Chremsminster Monastery, iii 222

---- _Pauperum, block book_: in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 108

---- ---- _block book_, German, --in the Public Library atStuttgart iii 26

---- ---- _Latine_, first edition, in the same Library, iii 27

---- ---- _block book_--one German, and two Latineditions, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 136

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 331

BIOGRAPHY, ROYAL, OF FRANCE;--XVIth century--magnificentMS. In the Royal Library at Paris. Ii 87

BLAZONRY OF ARMS, BOOK OF--XIVth century, with fac-simileportrait of _Leopold de Sempach_ in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 299

_Block books_; at Paris, ii 208, at Stuttgart, iii 26, at Munich, iii 134; at Landshut, iii 181; at Vienna, iii 331. 

BOCACE, DES CAS DES NOBLES HOMMES ET FEMMES, MS. XVth century, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 84

---- ---- two more MSS. Of the same work, in the same Library, ii 85

_Boccace Ruines des-Nobles Hommes_, &c. 1476, _Colard Mansion_, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 126

_Boccaccio Il Decamerone_, 1471, _Valdarfer_, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 125

---- ---- 1472, _A. De Michaelibus_, folio, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 126

_Boccaccio II Decamerone_, in the Public Library atNuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 431

---- ---- 1476, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 321

---- ---- _Deo Gracias, Sine Anno: forsan edit. Prin_. Inthe Public Library at Munich, iii 143

---- _Nimphale_, 1477, 4to. , in the Royal Library atStuttgart, iii 26

_Boetius, F. Johannes_, 1474, 4to. In the Library ofSte. Genevieve. At Paris, ii 176

_Bonifacii Papæ Libr. Decret_, 1465, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of Mölk Monastery, iii 252

---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 430

_Bonnie vie, ou Madenie, Chambery_, 1485, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 326

Book of the Gospels of the Emperor Lotharius, RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 67

BREVIAIRE DE BELLEVILLE, MS. Xivth century, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 72

BREVIARY OF JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD, MS. Xvth century--inthe Royal Library at Paris--with copper plate fac-simileof a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same, ii 73

BREVIARE DE M. DE MONMORENCY, MS. Xvith century--in theEmperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna, iii 386

BREVIARIUM ECCL. Liss. MS. ; in the Public Library atCaen i 209

BRUT D'ANGLETERE, MS. Xivth century--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 300

_Budæi Comment, in Ling. Gr_. 1529, folio--Francis 1st. Copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 140

_Burtrio, Anthon. De, Adam Rot_, 1472, folio, inthe Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 399

C. 

_Cæsar_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 128

_Cæsar_, 1460, folio, in the Mazarine Library, ii 192

---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich, iii 142

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library, iii 309

---- 1471. _Jenson_, in the library of Göttwic Monastery, iii 430

---- 1472. _S. And Pannartz_, folio, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 309

_Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot_. --1472. Folio, inthe library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 399

CALENDARIUM, MS. , xvith century in the Public Libraryat Munich iii 128

---- ---- _Regiomontani, block book_ in the PublicLibrary at Munich iii 138

_Cantica Canticorum, Edit. Prin_. Three copies in thePublic Library at Augsbourg, iii 138

_Castille et Artus d'Algarbe_, 1587. 4to. , in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris ii 160

_Catéchisme à l'usage des grandes filles pour êtres mariés_ i 89

_Caterina da Bologna_, no Date. 4to. In theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

---- _da Sienna_, 1477, 4to. , in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 322

---- _de Senis_, 1500, folio, in the Royal Library atParis, ii 149

_Catholicon_, 1460, folio, UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library Paris, ii 114

---- ---- 1460, folio, in the Imp. Lib. At Vienna, iii 317

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 143

---- _G, Zeiner_, 1469, UPON VELLUM, in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 143

---- ---- in the Monastic Library of Chremsminster, iii 221

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 317

_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, 1472, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 128

_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, in theMazarine Library, ii 193

---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 409

_Caxton, books printed by_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 102

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 331

_Celestina Commedia de, Anvers_, 18mo. , in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 162

_Chaucer's Book of Fame, Caxton_, folio, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

CHESS, GAME OF, _metrical German version of_, MS. , sec. Xv. , in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 154

_Chevalier Delibre_, 1488, 4to. , in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 326

CHEVALIER AU LION, MS. , 1470, in the Public Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 33

_Chivalry_; see _Tournaments_. 

_Chrétien de Mechel_, Cat. Des Tableaux de la Galerieimp. Et roy. De Vienne, 1781, 8vo. , iii 371

---- _Foresii, Lat_. 1474, folio, _printed by Gotz_, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 405

---- _Hungariæ_, 1485, 4to. , in the Public Libraryat Augsbourg, iii 99

_Chronicon Gottwicense_, 1732, folio, 2 vols. , someaccount of this rare and valuable work, iii 436

---- ---- referred to, iii 271

_Chrysostomi Comment. , Gr_. 1529, folio, copy ofDiane de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen, i 213

_Cicero, de Officiis_ 1465, 4to. , two copiesUPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 309

---- ---- 1466, 4to. , upon paper, in the MazarineLibrary at Paris, iii 192

---- ---- 1466, 4to. , UPON VELLUM, in the RoyalLibrary at Stuttgart, iii 24

---- ---- 1466, 4to. , UPON VELLUM, in the Imp. Lib. At Vienna, iii 309

---- ---- (_Aldus_), 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 146

_Cicero, Epistolæ ad Familiares_, 1467, CardinalBessarion's copy in the Imperial Library, at Vienna, iii 310

---- ---- 1469, _S. And Pannartz_, folio, in the same Library, iii 310

---- ---- 1469, _S: and Pannartz_, folio, in the PublicLibrary at Augsbourg, iii 98

---- ---- 1469, _I. De Spira_, in the RoyalLibrary at Stuttgart, iii 24

---- ---- 1502, Aldus, 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, in the possessionof M. Renouard, bookseller, ii 222

_Cicero, de Oratore, Monast. Soubiac_. , folio, in theLibrary of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 173

---- ---- _V. De Spira_, folio, in the Public Libraryat Strasbourg, ii 408

---- _Opera Philosophica, Ulric Han_, folio, in thePublic Library at Munich, iii 142

---- _De Natura Deorum, V. De Spira_. 1471, folio, inthe Mazarine Library, at Paris, ii 192

---- _Rhetorica Vetus, Jenson_, 1470, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris, ii 175

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 310

---- _Orationes, S. And Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 310

---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio, UPON VELLUM, (wanting one leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 141

---- ---- 1519, _Aldus_, 8vo, UPON VELLUM, first volumeonly, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 146

---- ---- perfect copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of St. Geneviève, ii 177

---- _Opera Omnia_, 1498, folio, 4 vols. , in theLibrary of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 176

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 310

---- ---- 1534, _Giunta_, folio, singular copy in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 152

_Cid el Cavalero_, 1627, 4to. , in the Library of theArsenal, at Paris: bound with _Seys Romances del Cid RuyDiaz de Bevar_, 1627, 4to. Ii 161

CITÉ DE DIEU, MS. , in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 82

_Cité des Dames, (Verard)_ folio, UPON VELLUM, inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 327

_Codex Ebnerianus_, referred to iii 447

_Compendium Morale_, folio, UPON VELLUM, unique copy, late in the possession of the Baron Derschau, at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 443

COSTENTIN DU, MS. , in the Public Library at Caen, i 209

COUTANCES, MS. , biographical details connected with, in thePublic Library at Caen, i 210

_Coutumes Anciennes_, 1672, 12mo. At Caen, i 211

_Cronica del Cid. Seville_. 4to. , in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 327

Cronique de France, 1493, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM, inthe Royal Library at Paris, ii 130

---- _de Florimont_, 1529, 4to. --in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 164

---- _de Cleriadus_, 1529, 4to. , --in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 166

D. 

_Daigremont et Vivian_, 1538, 4to. , in the Library ofthe Arsenal, at Paris, ii 166

_Dante Numeister_, 1472, folio, in the Mazarine Libraryat Paris, ii 193

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 322

---- _Petrus Adam_, 1472, folio, in the Library ofSte. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 176

---- ---- _Neapoli, Tuppi, _ folio, in the PublicLibrary at Stuttgart, iii 25

---- ---- _Milan_, 1478, with, the comments of G. Tuzago, folio, in the same collection, iii 25

---- 1481, folio, perfect copy, with twenty copper plates, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 144

---- 1481, folio, with xx copper-plates, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 323

_Decor Puellarum, Jenson_, 1461, 4to. , in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 323

_Defensio Immac. Concept. B. V. M_. 1470, _block book_, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 139

_Delphin Classics_, fine set of, in the library ofChremsminster Monastery, iii 222

_Der Veis Ritter_, 1514, folio, unique copy, in thePublic Library at Landshut, iii 183

_Dion Cassius_, 1548, Gr. Folio, edit. Prin. , Dianede Poictiers' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 152

_Dio Chrysostom. De Regno, Valdarfer_, 4to. UPONVELLUM, in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna, iii 388

DIOSCORIDES, GRÆCE, MS. , VIth century, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 296

DIVERTISSMENTS TOUCHANT LA GUERRE, MS. , in thePublic Library at Caen, i 209

_Doolin de Mayence, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to. In the Libraryof the Arsenal, ii 167

_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Royal Library atParis, ii 108

---- ---- in the Imperial Library, Vienna, iii 317

_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the PublicLibrary at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 430

---- ---- 1474, _I. Zeiner_, folio, in the Libraryof Chremsminster Monastery, iii 222

E. 

ECHECS AMOREUX. MS. Folio--with copper-plate fac-similein the Royal Library at Paris, ii 83

_Echec Jeu de, (Verard)_ no date--UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 132

_Ein nuizlich büchlin, Augs_. , 1498, 4to. --in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 327

_Erasmus expurgatus iuxta cens. Acad. Lovan_. 1579, folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg. See _Testament. Novum, _ 1516. Iii 102

EVANGELIA QUATUOR, Lat. MS. VIth century, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 64

---- ---- VIIIth century, in the Library atChremsminster Monastery, iii 224

---- ---- IXth century--in the Public Library at Munich, iii 123

---- ---- XIth century, in the same Library, iii 124

---- ---- Xth century, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 179

---- ---- XIth century--in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 27

---- ---- XIVth century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna iii 291

EVANGELIUM STI. IOHANNIS, MS. Lat. XIth century, inthe Royal Library at Paris, ii 71

_Evangelia cum Epistolis: Ital_. Folio--in theLibrary of Göttwic Monastery, iii 428

Evangelistarium, of Charlemagne, MS. Folio, in the PrivateLibrary of the King, at Paris, ii 199

_Euclides_, 1482, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 139

---- ---- four varying copies of, in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 143

---- Ratdolt. 1485, in the Library of the Monasteryof St. Florian, iii 236

_Euripides, Gr_. , 1503, _Aldus_--UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 145

_Eustathius in Homerum_, 1542--folio, UPON VELLUM, inthe Royal Library at Paris, ii 138

---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection, ii 151

---- ---- 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper, in thePublic Library at Caen, i 211

_Eutropius_, 1471, _Laver_, folio--in theKing's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 39

_Exhortation against the Turks_ (1472) in thePublic Library at Munich, iii 135

F. 

_Fait de la Guerre C. Mansion_, folio--in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 127

_Fazio Dita Mundi_, 1474, folio--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 323

_Ficheti Rhetorica--Gering_--4to. --UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 317

_Fiorio e Biancifiore, Bologna_, 1480, folio--in theLibrary of the Arsenal, at Paris, ii 161

_Fierbras_, 1486, folio--Prince Eugene's copy, inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 327

_Fortalitium Fidei_--folio--no date--in the PublicLibrary, at Munich: curious printed advertisement in this copy, iii 145

_Frezzi Il Quadriregio_, 1481, folio--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 323

_Fulgosii Anteros_--1496--folio--in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 323

FUNERAILES DES REINES DE FRANCE, MS. Folio--in theEmperor's Private Collection at Vienna, iii 387

G. 

_Galenus, Gr_. 1525, folio. _Aldus_--large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

_Galien et Jaqueline_, 1525, folio--in the Library ofthe Arsenal, at Paris, ii 163

_Gallia Christiana_, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Libraryat Bayeux, ii 244

_Games of Chess, Caxton_, folio, 2d. Edit. --in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

GENESIS--MS. Of the _ivth century--fragments of Chaptersof_, account of--with fac-simile Illuminations, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 289

_Gerard Comte de Nevers_, 1526, 4to. --in the Libraryof the Arsenal at Paris, ii 164

_Geyler, Navic. Fat_. 1511, 4to. --in the Public Libraryat Augsbourg, iii 102

_Gloria Mulierum Jenson_, 4to. --in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 324

_Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxton_, folio--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 333

_Gospels_, folio--MS. Xiiith century--in the Emperor'sPrivate Library at Vienna, iii 386

_Grammatica Rythmica_, 1466, folio--in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 114

_Gratian Opus. Decret. Schoeffher_, 1472, folio, UPONVELLUM, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 398

_Guillaume de Palerne_, 1552, 4to, in the Library of theArsenal: another edition, 1634, 4to. , ii 166

_Guy de Warwick_, no date, 4to. , in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 159

_Gyron Le Courtoys_, no date, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 130

H. 

_Hartlieb's Chiromancy, block book_, in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 115

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

_Helayne La Belle_, 1528, 4to. , in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 166

_Hecuba et Iphigenia in Aulide_, Gr. Et Lat. 1507, UPON VELLUM, 8vo. Ii 145

_Hector de Troye, Arnoullet_, 4to. , in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 167

_Heures, printed by Vostre_, fine copy of, in the PublicLibrary at Caen, i 210

_Herodotus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldus_, folio, large papercopy in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 150

HISTORIA B. M. VIRGINIS, MS. , folio, xvth century, in the Public Library at Paris, ii 76

---- ---- _block book_, folio, in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 116

---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 26

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 331

_Historiæ Augusta Scriptores_, 1475, folio, _P. DeLavagna_, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 408

---- ---- _Aldus_, 1521, 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 147

_History of Bohemia_, _by Pope Pius II_, 1475, in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 99

HISTOIRE ROMAINE, MS, xvth century; folio, 3 vols. In the Royal Library at Paris, ii 87

_Homeri Opera, Gr_. , 1488, folio, UNCUT, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 129

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 311

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 432

---- ---- _No date_, _Aldus_, 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, inthe Royal Library at Paris, ii 145

---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, ii 177

---- ---- 1808, _Bodoni_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 129

---- ---- _Batrachomyomachia_, _Gr. _ 4to. , edit. Prin. In the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 311

HORÆ B. M. VIRGINIS, MS. , 8vo. , in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 74

---- ---- folio, belonging to ANN OF BRITANNY, with copperplate engraving of her portrait therefrom, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 78

---- ---- belonging to Pope Paul III. In the same Library, ii 80

---- ---- MS. , XVth century, in the Royal Private Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 37

---- ---- 8vo. , in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna, iii 386

---- STI. LUDOVICI, MS. , XIIIth century, in the Libraryof the Arsenal at Paris, ii 157

---- ---- _Gr. _ 1497, 12mo. _printed by Aldus_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 103 -147

---- ---- purchase of a copy from Mr. Stöger, at Munich, iii 151

HORATIUS, M. S. , XIIth century in the Mölk Monastery, iii 258

---- Edit. Prin. 4to. , in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 96

---- _Venet_. 1494, 4to. , purchased of Mr. Fischeim, at Munich, iii 154

---- 1501, _Aldus_, 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 146

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 143

_Horloge de Sapience, Verard_, 1493, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 131

HORTUS DELICIARUM, MS. , XIIth century, in the PublicLibrary at Strasbourg, ii 401

HORTULUS ANIMÆ, MS. , XVth century, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 294

---- ---- 1498, 12mo. , in the King's Private Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 38

---- _Rosarum, &c_. , 1499, 8vo. , in the Public Libraryat Augsbourg, iii 101

_Huet, Demonstrat. Evang_. 1690, (1679?) folio, uniquecopy in the Public Library at Caen, i 211

_Huon de Bourdeaux_, four editions of, in the Libraryof the Arsenal at Paris, ii 163

I. 

_Isocrates, Gr. , Aldus_, 1534, folio, large paper copyin the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

---- ---- Printed at Milan, 1493, folio, ii 149

_Jason, Roman de, printed by Caxton_, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 103

---- ---- _same edition_, in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 155

_Jason, printed by Caxton_, in the Imp. Lib. At Vienna, iii 332

_Iehan de Saintré, Bonfons_, no date, 4to. , in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 165

---- _Paris, Bonfons_, no date, 4to. , in the same collection, ii 165

JEROME, ST. , VIE, MORT, ET MIRACLES DE, MS. , XVthcentury, in the Public Library of Stuttgart, iii 31

_Ieronimi Epistolæ_, 1468, UPON VELLUM, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 304

---- ---- 1470, _S. And Pannartz_, folio, in the Libraryof Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 398

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 431

---- ---- 1470, _Schoeffher_, in the Public Libraryat Strasbourg, ii 406

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 431

---- ---- _Parmæ_, 1480, folio, in the PublicLibrary at Augsbourg, iii 98

_Josephus, Lat_. 1480, folio, in the Library of theMonastery of St. Florian, iii 236

---- _Gallicè_, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 328

_Jourdain de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date_, 4to. , in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 166

_Jouvencel le_, 1497, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 328

_Juvenalis_, folio, _V. De Spira_, edit. Prin. Inthe Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 409

---- _Ulric. Han. Typ. Grand_, folio, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 311

---- 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, i 208

--- _I. De Fivizano_, folio, in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 311

L. 

_Lactantii Institutiones_, 1465, folio, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 112

---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, ii 172

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 305

---- ---- 1470, _S. And Pannartz_, folio, in theMazarine Library at Paris, ii 192

---- ---- _Rostoch_, 1476, UPON VELLUM, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 305

LANCELOT DU LAC, MS. , XIVth century, in the Royal Library atParis, ii 88

---- ---- another MS. Of about the same period, in the sameLibrary, ii 89

---- ---- another manuscript in the same library, ii 89

---- ---- 1488, _Verard_, folio, in the ImperialLibrary (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, iii 328

---- ---- 1494, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, iii 130

---- ---- 1496, _Verard, _ folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 328

_Lascaris Gram. Græc_. 1476, 4to. , in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 127

LEGES BAVARICÆ, MS. , XIIIth century, in the PublicLibrary at Landshut, iii 179

_Legenda Aurea, (seu Sanctorum) Ital. Jenson_, 1476, folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, ii 191

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 324

---- ---- 1475, _Gering_, folio, in the Public Libraryat Caen, i 208

_Les Deux Amans, Verard_, 1493, 4to. , in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 328

LIBER GENERATIONIS IES. XTI. MS. VIIth century:in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 70

_Liber Modorum significandi_, 1480, _St. Albans_, --in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 125

_Liber Moralisat. Bibl_. 1474, Ulm, folio--copy purchasedof M. Fischeim, at Munich, iii 154

LIBER PRECUM, _cum not. Et cant_. MS. _pervet_. In the Royal Library at Paris, ii 71

---- ---- MS. Xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 131

_Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis--block books_--in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 331

_Life of Christ, block book_--in the Public Library atMunich, iii 134

_Littleton's Tenures, Lettou_, &c. Folio--in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 333

LIVIUS, MS. XVth century--in the Imperial Library atVienna, iii 298

---- 1469, folio, --in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 122

---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich, iii 142

---- 1470, _V. De Spira_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 122

---- ---- upon paper, in the same Library, ii 122

---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 397

---- 1472, _S. And Pann_. , folio, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 123

_Lombardi Petri Sentent. (Eggesteyn)_, folio, inthe Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 399

_Lucanus_, 1469, folio--in the Public Library at Munich, iii 142

---- 1475, folio, cum comment. Omniboni--in thePublic Library at Stuttgart, iii 24

_Luciani Opera_, Gr. 1496, folio--fine copy, inthe possession of M. Renouard, at Paris, ii 230

---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, folio--large paper copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 151

---- ---- _Opusc. Quæd. Lat_. 1494--4to. --UPONVELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 311

_Lucretius_, 1486, folio--in the King's PrivateCollection at Stuttgart, iii 39

---- _Aldus_, 1515, 8vo. --UPON VELLUM, (supposedto be unique) in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 146

_Luctus Christianorum, Jenson_, 4to. --in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 324

_Ludolphus Vita Christi (Eggesteyn)_, 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Nancy, ii 363

---- ---- _De Terra Sancta_, &c. 4to. --in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 317

M. 

_Mabrian_, 1625, 4to. --in the Library of the Arsenalat Paris, ii 163

_Maguelone, La Belle_, 1492, _Trepperel_, 4to. --inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 328

_Maius, de propriet. Prisc. Verb_. 1477. Folio--_B. DeColonia_--in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 407

_Mammotrectus, Schoeffher_, 1470--folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 317

---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg, iii 398

---- ---- _H. De Helie_, 1470, folio--in the PublicLibrary at Landshut, iii 181

MANDEVILLE, MS. _German_--in the Public Library atStuttgart, iii 32

_Manilius_, 1474, folio, --in the King's PrivateLibrary at Stuttgart, iii 39

_Marco Polo, Germ_. 1477, folio--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 329

_Marsilius Ficinus: In Dionysium Areopagitam_, noDate, folio, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris, ii 176

_Martialis_, 1475, folio--in the Library of a CapuchinMonastery, near Vienna, iii 403

---- ---- _Aldus_, 1502, 8vo. Two copies UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 146

MAYNI IASONIS EPITALAMION, MS. 4to. --in the Emperor'sPrivate Library at Vienna, iii 387

_Mayster of Sentence, Caxton_, folio--in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

_Meinart, St. Life of, block book_: in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 137

_Melusina, Historie von der, Germ_. No date, folio, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 41

_Melusine, P. Le Noir_, 4to. --in the Library of the Arsenal ii 167

_Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society of Belles Lettres&c. At Rouen_, vol. I. Page 49, of a _similar_ Societyat Caen, i 185

_Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de li Amante di_, 1533, 4to. In the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 159

_Meurin Fils d'Oger, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to. --in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 167

_Milles et Amys, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 131

---- ---- _Rouen_, 4to. --in the Library of the Arsenalat ditto, ii 162

_Mirabilia Urbis Romæ, block book_, --in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 137

MISSALE, MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library atStuttgart, iii 30

---- ---- XVth century, two in the Public Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 31

---- ---- of Charles the Bold, XVth century--inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, with fac-simile, iii 292

---- ---- XVth century, --in the Public Library at Munich, iii 129

---- ---- 8vo. --belonging to Sigismund, King of Poland, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 180

---- _Herbipolense_ (1479), folio, UPON VELLUM, inthe imperial Library at Vienna, iii 306

---- ---- _Venet_. 1488, folio, --UPON VELLUM, in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna, iii 388

---- _Pro. Patav. Eccl. Ritu_, 1494, folio, in theLibrary of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, iii 403

---- _Mozarabicum_, 1500, folio--with the Breviary1502, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 156

---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, ii 178

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 305

---- _Parisiense_, 1522, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 156

_Missal of Henry IV_. XVIth century, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 81

_Missa Defunctorum, Viennæ_, 1499, folio, in the Libraryof a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, iii 403

_Montaigne's Essays_, 1635, folio, large paper, in theLibrary at Caen, i 212

_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio, --in the RoyalLibrary, at Paris, ii 134

_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 324

_Moreri des Normans; par I. A. Guiat_, MS. In thePublic Library at Caen, i 209

_Morgant le Géant_, 1650, 4to. --in the Libraryof the Arsenal at Paris, ii 164

_Mori Thomæ Opera, edit. Lovan_. 1566, folio, in theLibrary of the Lycée at Bayeux, i 245

_Munsteri Cosmographia_, 1556, folio, copy of, belongingto D. De Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen, ii 214

_Mureti Disticha_, Lat. And Fr. _chap book_, at Vire, i 286

N. 

_Nanceidos Liber_, 1518, folio; copy of, with ms. Notes ofBochart, in the Public Library at Caen, i 212

---- ---- two copies of, one upon large paper, in thePublic Library at Nancy, ii 362

---- ---- one, UPON VELLUM, in the possession of Messrs. Payneand Foss, ii 362

_Nef des Folz du Monde_, Verard, no date, folio--UPONVELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 133

---- ---- Printed by the same, UPON VELLUM, in thesame library, ii 133

_Nef des Dames, Arnollet, à Lyon_, 4to. --in the Libraryof the Arsenal at Paris, ii 160

_Niger P. , contra perfidos Judæos_, 1475, folio--in theKing's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 41

_Nonius Marcellus_, 1471, folio, --in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 318

_Nova Statuta, Machlinia_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 125

_Novelas, por de Maria Zayas_, 1637, 4to. --in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 160

---- _Amorosas_, 1624, 4to. In the same Library, ii 160

O. 

OFFICIUM B. M. VIRGINIS, MS. , XVth century, in theEmperor's private collection at Vienna, iii 386

---- ---- MS. , XVIth century, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 129

OFFICIUM B. M. VIRGINIS, MS. , in the same library, iii 130

_Ogier le Danois_, 1525, folio, in the Library ofthe Arsenal at Paris, ii 162

_Ovidii Opera Omnia, Azoguidi_, 1471, wanting twoleaves, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 141

---- _Fasti, Azoguidi_, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 312

---- _Opera Omnia, S. And Pannartz_, 1471, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 312

---- _Epistolæ et Fasti_, folio, in the same collection, iii 312

P. 

_Paris et Vienne, Paris_, no date, 4to. , in the Library ofthe Arsenal at Paris, ii 164

_Pentateuch, Hebr. _ 1491, folio, in the Royal Library atParis, ii 111

_Petrarcha Sonetti_, 1470, Prince Eugene's copy in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 325

---- ---- 1473, _Zarotus_, folio, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 325

---- ---- _Jenson_, 1473, folio, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 325

---- ---- _Comment. Borstii, Bologn_. , 1475, folio, twocopies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which onebelonged to Prince Eugene, iii 325

---- ---- _Bolog. _, 1476, folio, (_Azoguidi_[178])with the comment of Philelphus, in the Public Library atStuttgart, iii 25

---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 147

---- ---- 1514, 8vo. , UPON VELLUM, in the possession ofM. Renouard, bookseller, ii 229

---- ---- 1521, 12mo. , in the King's Private Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 41

---- _Sonetti cum Comment. Velutelli_, 1546, 8vo. , iii 41

---- _Hist. Griseldis, Lat_. , 1473, folio, --Prince Eugene'scopy in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 318

_Phalaris Epist_. , 1471, 4to. , in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 318

---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio, in the same collection, iii 319

PHILOSTRATUS, _Lat_. , MS. , XVth century in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 297

_Pierre de Provence et la belle Maguelonne_, 1490, 4to. In the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 165

_Pindarus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldi_, 12mo. , in the Libraryof the Monastery of St. Florian, iii 237

_Plautus_, 1472, folio, edit. Prin. In the MazarineLibrary at Paris, ii 192

---- 1522, _Aldus_, 4to. , Grolier's copy, apparently_large paper_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

_Plinius Senior_, 1469, folio, one copy, UPON VELLUM, and another upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 120

---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, ii 174

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 312

---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 120

---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 313

---- ---- upon paper, in the Library of ClosterneuburgMonastery, iii 398

---- ---- _Ital_. 1476, _Jenson_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 121

---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection, ii 121

---- ---- upon paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 313

_Plutarchi Vitæ; Parallellæ, Ital_. , folio, Litt. R. , in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 409

---- ---- the same edition in the Monastic Library atClosterneuburg, iii 398

_Plutarchi Opuscula Moralia, Gr_, 1509, _Aldus_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 137

_Poetæ Græci Principes, Gr_. , 1556, folio, large paper, De Thou's copy in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 152

_Pogii Facetiæ, Monast. Euseb_. , folio, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 319

---- _Hist. Fiorent. _, 1476, folio, UPON VELLUM and paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 325

POLYBIUS, _Gr_. MS. , sec. XVI. , Diane de Poictiers's copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 99

_Polybius, Lat. , S. And Pannartz_, 1473, folio, in theLibrary of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 398

PRAYER BOOK OF CHARLES THE BALD, Ill. MS. 4to, inthe Royal Library at Paris, ii 67

_Priscianus_, 1470, _V. De Spira_, folio, UPONVELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 139

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 319

---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Imperial Library atVienna, iii 319

----, _Aldus_, 1527, 8vo. , Grolier's copy, upon largepaper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

----, _Printed by V. De Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in theLibrary of Ste. Geneviève, ii 175

PSALTERIUM, MS. , IXth century, of Charles the Bald; inthe Public Library at Paris; ii 66

---- ----, Sti. Ludovici, XIIIth century, in thesame library, ii 68

---- ----, XIth century, in the Public Library at Stuttgart iii 27

---- ----, XIIth century, in the same Collection, iii 28

---- ----, XIIth century, in the Royal Private Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 36

---- ----, XIIth century, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 125

---- ----, with most splendid illuminations, of the XVIthcentury, in the same library, iii 133

---- ----, St. Austin, XVth century, in the Public Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 33

---- ---- _Latine_, 1457, _Fust and Schoeffher_, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 104

---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 306

_Psalterium Latine_, 1459, folio--in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 105

---- ----, 1490, folio, _Schoeffher_, UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 105

---- ----, 1502, folio, _Schoeffher_, in the same library, -- 106

---- ----, UPON VELLUM, _Printed by Schoeffher's Son_, 1516, folio, ii 106

---- ----, without date--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 307

---- ----, _Lips_. 1486, 4to. --in the Public Library atLandshut, iii 181

PTOLEMÆUS, _Lat_. MS. Folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 85

---- ---- MS. Folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 59

---- ----, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 142

---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 319

---- ----, _Printed by Buckinck_, 1478, folio, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 320

Q. 

_Quintilianus, I. De Lignam_, 1470, folio, in theLibrary of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 175

---- ----, 1471, _Jenson_, folio, in the Public Libraryat Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 431

R. 

_Ratdolt_, specimens of the types from his press, in thePublic Library at Munich, iii 144

_Recueil des Histoires de Troye, printed by Caxton_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 102

---- ---- _printed by Verard_, UPON VELLUM, in the same Library, ii 102

_Regnars, les, &c. Verard_, 4to. Prince Eugene's copyin the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 329

_Regulæ, Confitend. Peccata sua. Ital_. , 1473, 4to. , inthe Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 326

_Repertorium Statut. Ord. Carth_. 1510, folio, in thePublic Library at Caen, i 202

_Richard sans Peur, Janot, no date_, 4to. , in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 158

---- _Bonfons, no date_, 4to. , in the same library, ii 158

_Robert le Diable, Janot, no date_, 4to. , in the Library ofthe Arsenal at Paris, ii 158

_Romances, MS_. , in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 88

---- ----, _printed_, in the same Library, ii 131

---- ----, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 407

---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 126

_Ronsard_, 1584, folio, in the Public Library atCaen, i 212

ROSE, ROMAN DE LA, MS. XIVth century, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 95

---- ---- MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library atStuttgart, iii 31

---- ---- _Verard_, no date, UPON VELLUM, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 131

_Rossei opus elegans, &c. , Pynson_, 1523, 4to. , the author's copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 183

S. 

SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA _Pap. Greg_. , MS. , VIthcentury, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 290

_Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram_. , copy in the chapterLibrary at Bayeux, i. 244, in the Library of the Lycéeat Bayeux, i 245

_Sannazarii Arcadia_, 1514, _Aldus_, 8vo. , Grolier'scopy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

_Sannazarius de partu Virginis, Aldi_, 1527, 12mo. In theKing's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 41

SCHAKZABEL, DER, MS. 1400 or 1450, in the Public Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 32

_Séguin, Histore Militaire des Bocains_, quoted, i 300, 301, 302, _sur l'histoire de l'industrie duBocage, en général, et de la ville de Vire sa capitaleen particulière_, 1810, 8vo. , i 303

_Servius in Virgilium_, see _Virgilius_. 

_Sforziada La_, 1480, folio, UPON VELLUM, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 134

_Shyppe of Fools_, 1509, 8vo. _printed by W. Worde_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 103

_SIBILÆ, &c_. , MS. , xvth century, in the PublicLibrary at Munich, iii 127

_Silius Italicus, Laver_, 1471, folio, in theMazarine Library at Paris, ii 193

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 313

---- ---- _S. And Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 313

---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 26

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

_Spec. Hum, Salv_, 1476, folio, _printed by Richel_, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 407

_Spec. Morale P. Bellovacensis_, 1476, folio, ii 405

---- _Judiciale Durandus_, Printed by Hussner andRekenhub, 1473, folio, ii 405

_Speculum Stultorum_, _no date_, 4to. , in thePublic Library at Caen, i 211

_Statius in usum Delphini_, 4to. , two copies, in theLibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 156

---- ---- beautiful copy in the Library of Chremsminstermonastery, iii 222

_Statutes of Richard III. Machlinia_, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 124

---- ---- in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 41

_Stephani, H. Gloss. Græc_. 1573, &c. , folio--_cum notismss: Bocharti_, copy of, in the Public Library at Caen, i 211

_Successos y Prodigos de Amor_, 1626, 4to. , in the Libraryof the Arsenal at Paris, ii 161

_Suetonius I. De Lignamine_, 1470, folio--in the Libraryof Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 175

_Suetonius S. And Pannartz_, 1470, folio--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 313

---- _Jenson_, 1471, 4to. , --in the same collection, iii 313

---- _Reisinger_, 4to. , --_without date_, in theprivate royal collection at Stuttgart, iii 39

_Suidas, Gr_. , 1499, folio--Lambecius's copy, in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 314

---- 1503, folio, _Aldus_--large paper copy, in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 151

_Sypperts de Vinevaulx, Paris, no date_, 4to. --inthe Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 159

T. 

_Tacitus, I. De Spira_, folio, edit. Prin. In thePublic Library at Stuttgart, iii 24

----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 314

_Tasso, Gerusalemme Conquistata_, the author'sautograph--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 300

_Terentius, Mentelin_, folio--in the Imperial Library atVienna, iii 314

----, _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 136

----, _Reisinger_, folio--in the Public Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 23

_Testamentum Novum, Hollandicè et Russ_. , 1717, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 110

---- ----, _Bohemice, Sec_. Xv--in the Imperial Library atVienna, iii 307

---- ----, _Græcè Erasmi_, in the King's Private Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 39

---- ----, _R. Stephani_, 1550, folio--Diane de Poictiers'scopy--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 150

_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Libraryof Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 179

---- ----, two copies of, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 147

_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio, UPON VELLUM, two copiesof, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 329

---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian, iii 238

_Theophrastus_, 1497, Gr. _Aldus_, --Diane dePoictiers's copy, in the possession of M. Renouard at Paris, ii 231

_Thucydide, Gourmont_, folio, _Verard_--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--Prince Eugene's copy, iii 330

TITE LIVE, MS. Folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 86

_Tityrell and Pfartzival_, 1477, folio--in the PublicLibrary at Landshut, iii 181

---- ---- in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian, iii 236

TOURNAMENTS, BOOK OF, MS. Xvth century--in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 95

---- ---- duplicate and more recent copy of ii 99

_Tracts_, Printed by Pfister, at Bamberg, folio, ii 111

_Trebisond, Paris_, 4to. --in the Library of theArsenal at Paris, ii 167

TRISTAN, MS. Xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 91

---- ----, another MS. In the same library, ii 91

---- ----, a third MS. In the same library, ii 92

---- _Gall_. Sec. XIII. , in the Imperial Libraryat Vienna, iii 299

---- ----, another MS. In the same Collection, iii 300

_Tristran, Verard_, folio--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 330

_Trithemii Annales Hirsaugienses_, 1690, folio--inthe Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster, iii 227

---- ----, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, iii 403

_Troys filz de Roys_, Paris, no date, 4to. --in theLibrary of the Arsenal, ii 164

_Tully of Old Age, Caxton_--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 124

_Turrecremata I. De Meditationes, Ulric Han_, 1467, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 320

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 430

---- ----, 1473, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 307

V. 

VALERIUS MAXIMUS, MS. Xvth century--in the ImperialLibrary at Vienna, iii 298

---- ---- _Mentelin_, folio--two copies in thePublic Library at Strasbourg, ii 408

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 314

---- ---- in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 24

---- ---- 1475, _Coes & Stol_, folio--inthe Public Library at Caen, i 208

---- ---- _Aldus_, 1534, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on largepaper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

_Valturius De Re Militari_, 1472, folio--in theImperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, iii 321

_Vaudevires, Basselin_, 1811, i 212 -289

_Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, at Caen, i 208

_Virgilius, S. & Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in theRoyal Library at Paris, ii 116

---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg--incomplete, ii 408

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 314

---- 1470, _V. De Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, ii 117

---- ---- upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 117

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 314

---- 1471, _S. And Pannartz_, folio--in the RoyalLibrary at Paris, iii 118

_Virgilius_, 1471, _S. And Pannartz_, latein the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 23

---- ---- 1471, _V. De Spira_, folio--in theImperial Library at Vienna, iii 315

---- ---- 1471, _Adam_, folio--late in the PublicLibrary at Stuttgart, iii 23

---- _Servius in Virgilium_. _Ulric Han_, folio--Diane de Poictiers's copy, in the MazarineLibrary at Paris, ii 191

---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio--inthe Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 408

---- ---- 1478, _Gering_, 4to. , in the Royal Libraryat Paris, ii 119

---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo. --UPON VELLUM, in thePublic Library at Munich, iii 146

---- ---- 1505, 8vo. --in the possession of M. Renouard, bookseller, ii 230

---- _S. And Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the Libraryof Ste. Geneviève, ii 174

---- _Gallicè_, 1582, folio--in the Public Library atCaen, i 212

VITÆ SANCTORUM, MS. Sec. XII. --in the Public Libraryat Stuttgart, iii 29

_Vitruvius Giuntæ_, 1513, 8vo. --UPON VELLUM, inthe Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris, ii 178

Vocabularius, Bechtermuntze, 1467, 4to. Ii 115

U. 

_Utino, T. De, Sermones_, _printed by Gering_--inthe Public Library at Vire, i 297

W. 

WILLIBROODI STI. VITA. AUCT. ALCUINO. MS. Xithcentury, in the Private Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 38

[178] In the page referred to, I have conjectured it to be printed byUlric Han-or Reisinger. To these names I add the above. 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THEShakspeare Press.