[Transcriber's note: Obvious printer's errors have been corrected, all other inconsistencies are as in the original. Author's spellinghas been maintained. Probable typo:Pages named by the author are under the format (p. Xx). Original pagination of the book have been kept under theformat {p. Xxx}. Missing page numbers correspond to blank pages. Page numbers corresponding to full page illustrations(which have been inserted in the caption of the illustration)may seem out of order; the illustration having been moved outof the paragraph. The illustrations of the page 31 and 89 share their captionswith the illustration above them. ] THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" BEING A LITTLE BOOK ABOUT THE GREAT PEAK WHICH THE INDIANS NAMED "TACOMA" BUT WHICH IS OFFICIALLY CALLED "RAINIER" By JOHN H. WILLIAMS _O, rarest miracle of mountain heights, Thou hast the sky for thy imperial dome, And dwell'st among the stars all days and nights, In the far heavens familiarly at home. _ --William Hillis Wynn: "Mt. Tacoma; an Apotheosis. " Second Edition revised and greatly enlarged, with 190 illustrations, including eight colored halftones. TACOMA: JOHN H. WILLIAMS NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS: LONDON 1911 [Illustration: Copyright, 1905, By Kiser Photo Co. Great Crevasses in the upper part of Cowlitz Glacier. ] Copyright, 1910, 1911, by John H. Williams. {p. 007}[Illustration: On the summit of Eagle Rock in winter. Boys looking over an 800-foot precipice. ] FOREWORD. Every summer there is demand for illustrated literature describing themountain variously called "Rainier" or "Tacoma. " Hitherto, we have hadonly small collections of pictures, without text, and confined to thefamiliar south and southwest sides. The little book which I now offer aims to show the grandest and mostaccessible of our extinct volcanoes from all points of view. Like theglacial rivers, its text will be found a narrow stream flowing swiftlyamidst great mountain scenery. Its abundant illustrations cover notonly the giants' fairyland south of the peak, but also the equallystupendous scenes that await the adventurer who penetrates the hardertrails and climbs the greater glaciers of the north and east slopes. * * * * The title adopted for the book has reference, of course, to the Indiannature worship, of which something is said in the opening chapter. Both the title and a small part of the matter are reprinted from anarticle which I contributed last year to the _New York Evening Post_. Attention is called to the tangle in the names of glaciers and theneed of a definitive nomenclature. As to the name of the Mountainitself, that famous bone of contention between two cities, I greatlyprefer "Tacoma, " one of the several authentic forms of the Indian nameused by different tribes; but I believe that "Tahoma, " proposed by theRotary Club of Seattle, would be a justifiable compromise, and satisfynearly everybody. Its adoption would free our national map from onemore of its meaningless names--the name, in this case, of anundistinguished foreign naval officer whose only connection with ourhistory is the fact that he fought against us during the AmericanRevolution. Incidentally, it would also free me from the need of anapology for using the hybrid "Rainier-Tacoma"! * * * Many of theillustrations show wide reaches of wonderful country, and theirdetails may well be studied with a reading glass. I am much indebted to the librarians and their courteous assistants atthe Seattle and Tacoma public libraries; also to Prof. Flett for hisinteresting account of the flora of the National Park; to Mr. EugeneRicksecker, of the United States Engineer Corps, for permission toreproduce his new map of the Park, now printed for the first time;and, most of all, to the photographers, both professional and amateur. In the table of illustrations, credit is given the maker of eachphotograph. The book is sent out in the hope of promoting a widerknowledge of our country's noblest landmark. May it lead many of itsreaders to delightful days of recreation and adventure. Tacoma, June 1, 1910. J. H. W. Second Edition. --The text has been carefully revised, much new matteradded, and the information for tourists brought to date. Theillustrations have been rearranged, and more {p. 008} than fifty newones included. Views of the west and south sides, mainly, occupy thefirst half of the book, while the later pages carry the reader eastand north from the Nisqually country. Nearly five thousand negatives and photographs have now been examinedin selecting copy for the engravers. In the table of illustrations Iam glad to place the names of several expert photographers inPortland, San Francisco, Pasadena and Boston. Their pictures, withother new ones obtained from photographers already represented, makethis edition much more complete. For the convenience of tourists, aswell as of persons unable to visit the Mountain but wishing to knowits features, I have numbered the landmarks on three of the largerviews, giving a key in the underlines. If this somewhat mars thebeauty of these pictures, it gives them added value as maps of theareas shown. In renewing my acknowledgments to the photographers, Imust mention especially Mr. Asahel Curtis of Seattle. The help andcounsel of this intrepid and public-spirited mountaineer have beeninvaluable. Mr. A. H. Barnes, our Tacoma artist with camera and brush, whose fine pictures fill many of the following pages, is about topublish a book of his mountain views, for which I bespeak liberalpatronage. My readers will join me in welcoming the beautiful verses written forthis edition by a gracious and brilliant woman whose poems havedelighted two generations of her countrymen. Thanks are also due to Senator Wesley L. Jones, Superintendent E. S. Hall of the Rainier National Park and the Secretary of the Interiorfor official information; to Director George Otis Smith of the U. S. Geological Survey for such elevations as have thus far beenestablished by the new survey of the Park; to A. C. McClurg & Co. OfChicago, for permission to quote from Miss Judson's "_Myths andLegends of the Pacific Northwest_"; to Mr. Wallace Rice, literaryexecutor of the late Francis Brooks, for leave to use Mr. Brooks'sfine poem on the Mountain; to the librarians at the Public Library, the John Crerar Library and the Newberry Library in Chicago, and tomany others who have aided me in obtaining photographs or data forthis edition. Lovers of the mountains, in all parts of our country, will learn withregret that Congress, remains apparently indifferent to theconservation of the Rainier National Park and its complete opening tothe public. At the last session, a small appropriation was asked formuch-needed trails through the forests and to the high interglacialplateaus, now inaccessible save to the toughest mountaineer; it beingthe plan of the government engineers to build such trails on gradesthat would permit their ultimate widening into permanent roads. Eventhis was denied. The Idaho catastrophe last year again proved thenecessity of trails to the protection of great forests. With theloggers pushing their operations closer to the Park, its danger callsfor prompt action. Further, American tourists, it is said, annuallyspend $200, 000, 000 abroad, largely to view scenery surpassed in theirown country. But Congress refuses the $50, 000 asked, even refuses$25, 000, toward making the grandest of our National Parks safe fromforest fires and accessible to students and lovers of nature! May 3, 1911. [Illustration: Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass, with Ruth Mountain(the Wedge) on right and Sour-Dough Mountains on left. ] [Illustration: White Glacier and Little Tahoma, with eastern end ofthe Tatoosh Range in distance. ] {p. 009} CONTENTS. Page. The Mountain Speaks. Poem Edna Dean Proctor 15 I. Mount "Big Snow" and Indian Tradition 17 II. The National Park, its Roads and its Needs 43 III. The Story of the Mountain 77 IV. The Climbers 113 V. The Flora of the Mountain Slopes Prof. J. B. Flett 129 Notes 139 ILLUSTRATIONS. The * indicates engravings made from copyrighted photographs. Seenotice under the illustration. THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. Title. Photographer. Page. Spanaway Lake, with reflection of the Mountain A. H. Barnes. Frontispiece View from Electron, showing west side of the Mountain Asahel Curtis 19 View northward from top of Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott 46 Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott 47 * Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier A. H. Barnes 73 * Spray Park, from Fay Peak W. P. Romans 92 Crevasse in Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis 109 North Mowich Glacier and the Mountain in a storm George V. Caesar 128 ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. * Great crevasses in upper part of Cowlitz Glacier Kiser Photo Co. 6 On the summit of Eagle Rock in winter George V. Caesar 7 Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass Asahel Curtis 8 White Glacier and Little Tahoma Asahel Curtis 9 White River Canyon, from moraine of White Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 12 Telephoto view from near Electron, showing plateau on the summit Asahel Curtis 13 View of the Mountain from Fox Island Charles Bedford 14 * The most kingly of American mountains Romans Photographic Co. 16 Party of climbers on Winthrop Glacier Asahel Curtis 17 Ice Terraces, South Tahoma Glacier Rodney L. Glisan 17 Mineral Lake and the Mountain A. H. Denman 18 Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake A. H. Barnes 18 Nisqually Canyon Kiser Photo Co. 21 * North Peak, and South Mowich Glacier A. H. Waite 22{p. 010} * Basaltic Columns, South Mowich Glacier A. H. Waite 23 Mountain Goat A. H. Barnes 23 West side of summit, seen from Tahoma Fork A. H. Barnes 24 Iron and Copper Mountains in Indian Henry's A. G. Bowles, Jr. 25 Cutting steps up Paradise Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 25 Great Crag on ridge separating North and South Tahoma Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 26 The Whistling Marmot Asahel Curtis 26 View from Beljica, showing west side of the Mountain A. H. Barnes 27 * Mountain Pine E. S. Curtis 28 * Mount Wow, or Goat Mountain E. S. Curtis 28 Rounded Cone of Mt. St Helen's A. H. Barnes 29 * View northward from Simlayshe, or Eagle Peak Pillsbury Picture Co. 30, 31 * Simlayshe, or Eagle Peak Linkletter Photographic Co. 30 Exploring Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 31 Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers A. H. Denman 32 Anemones Miss Jessie Kershaw 32 * North Tahoma Glacier A. H. Waite 33 * Snow Lake in Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes 34 A fair Mountaineer Asahel Curtis 35 Indian Henry's, seen from South Tahoma Glacier A. H. Denman 36 * Southwest side of the Mountain, seen from Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes 37 Climbing Pinnacle Peak (2) Asahel Curtis 38 A silhouette on Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott 39 * Rough Climbing E. S. Curtis 39 Ptarmigan Asahel Curtis 40 The Mountain, from Puyallup river B. L. Aldrich, Jr. 40 Falls of the Little Mashell river A. H. Barnes 41 Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs A. H. Barnes 42 On Pierce County road, passing Ohop Valley S. C. Lancaster 43 Cowlitz Chimneys S. C. Smith 43 * Old Road near Spanaway A. H. Barnes 44 Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon Asahel Curtis 49 Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage Dr. F. A. Scott 49 "Ghost Trees" Mrs. H. A. Towne 50 Government Road in the Forest Reserve S. C. Lancaster 51 "Hanging Glacier, " an ice fall above the Cowlitz Asahel Curtis 51 Leaving National Park Inn for Paradise Linkletter Photo Co. 52 * On the Summit, showing Columbia's Crest Asahel Curtis 52 Paradise Valley or "Park, " and Tatoosh Mountains A. H. Barnes 53 On Government Road, a mile above Longmires Linkletter Photo Co. 54 Road near "Gap Point" Linkletter Photo Co. 54 Snout of Nisqually Glacier, and Road Bridge Paul T. Shaw 55 Pony Trail Bridge across the Nisqually Dr. H. B. Hinman 55 Road a mile above the Bridge Asahel Curtis 56 On the Pony Trail to Paradise Kiser Photo Co. 56 Sierra Club lunching on Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis 57 A Mountain Celery Mrs. Alexander Thompson 57 Narada Falls, on Paradise River Herbert W. Gleason 58 Washington Torrents, on Paradise River A. H. Barnes 59 Portion of Paradise Park and Tatoosh Range A. H. Barnes 59 View of the Mountain from the Tatoosh, with key to landmarks Herbert W. Gleason 60 Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 61 Tug of War Asahel Curtis 61 * Hiking through Paradise Valley in Winter J. H. Weer 62 * Tatoosh Range, from Reese's Camp, in Winter J. H. Weer 62 * Waterfall above Paradise Valley Photo, W. E. Averett; Copyright, Asahel Curtis 63 Looking from Stevens Glacier to Mt. Adams Dr. F. A. Scott 64 Reese's Camp C. E. Cutter 64 Climbing the "Horn" on Unicorn Peak Asahel Curtis 65 Stevens Canyon in October A. H. Barnes 66 Sluiskin Falls A. H. Barnes 67 Eminent scientist practices the simple life J. B. Flett 67 * Nisqually Glacier, with its sources A. H. Barnes 68 Sierra Club on Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis 69 * Lost to the World Asahel Curtis 69 "Sunshine" and "Storm" (2) Mrs. H. A. Towne 70{p. 011} Nisqually Glacier, from top of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis 71 Measuring the ice flow in Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis 72 * Miss Fay Fuller Exploring a Crevasse E. S. Curtis 72 Fairy Falls, in Goat Lick Basin A. H. Barnes 75 * Gibraltar and its Neighbors E. S. Curtis 76 Crossing Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis 77 * Reflection Lake and the Mountain E. S. Curtis 77 Looking up from Cowlitz Chimneys to Gibraltar Asahel Curtis 78 Divide of Paradise and Stevens Glaciers A. H. Barnes 79 Old Moraine of Stevens Glacier Asahel Curtis 79 Preparing for a night at Camp Muir Asahel Curtis 80 The Bee Hive Asahel Curtis 80 Mazama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys Kiser Photo Co. 81 Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to Gibraltar Asahel Curtis 81 Mazamas rounding Gibraltar Rodney L. Glisan 82 Under the walls of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis 83 One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir A. H. Waite 83 Perilous position on edge of a great crevasse Charles Bedford 84 Climbing the "Chute, " west side of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis 85 Looking from top of Gibraltar to the summit A. H. Waite 86 View south from Cowlitz Glacier to Mt. Adams Charles Bedford 87 One of the modern craters Asahel Curtis 88, 89 Steam Caves in one of the craters Asahel Curtis 88 North Peak, or "Liberty Cap. " A. W. Archer 89 Goat Peaks, glacier summits in the Cascades Kiser Photo Co 90 Ice-bound lake in Cowlitz Park S. C. Smith 93 Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier S. C. Smith 93 Crossing a precipitous slope on White Glacier A. W. Archer 94 * Climbing Goat Peaks in the Cascades S. C. Smith 94 Looking up White Glacier to Little Tahoma Dr. F. A. Scott 95 The Mountain seen from top of Cascade Range S. C. Smith 96 Great Moraine built by Frying-Pan Glacier on "Goat Island" J. B. Flett 96 Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier, below Little Tahoma Dr. F. A. Scott 97 Sunrise above the clouds, Camp Curtis Asahel Curtis 97 Looking up from Snipe Lake, below Interglacier Dr. F. A. Scott 98 Passing a big Crevasse on Interglacier Asahel Curtis 98 View North from Mt. Ruth to Grand Park J. B. Flett 99 Camp on St. Elmo Pass, north side of the Wedge Asahel Curtis 100 East Face of Mountain, with route to summit Asahel Curtis 100 Admiral Peter Rainier 101 First picture of the Mountain, from Vancouver's "Voyage" 101 Climbers on St. Elmo Pass A. W. Archer 102 St. Elmo Pass, from north side A. W. Archer 102 Russell Peak, from Avalanche Camp Asahel Curtis 103 Avalanche Camp Asahel Curtis 103 Looking up Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp Asahel Curtis 104 Looking across Winthrop Glacier to Steamboat Prow Asahel Curtis 104 View south from Sluiskin Mountains across Moraine Park Asahel Curtis 105 Part of Spray Park George Caesar 106 Climbing the séracs on Winthrop Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 107 Ice Pinnacles on the Carbon A. W. Archer 107 Among the Ice Bridges of Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis 108 Building Tacoma's electric power plant on the Nisqually (3) George V. Caesar 111 Hydro-electric plant at Electron 112 Cutting canal to divert White River to Lake Tapps 112 Mystic Lake, in Moraine Park Asahel Curtis 113 Glacier Table on Winthrop Glacier Asahel Curtis 113 Carbon River and Mother Mountains Dr. F. A. Scott 114 * Oldest and Youngest of the Climbers C. E. Cutter 115 * P. B. Van Trump on his old Camp Ground E. S. Curtis 115 Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond Asahel Curtis 116 * John Muir, President of the Sierra Club J. Edward B. Greene 116 Coasting in Moraine Park Asahel Curtis 117 Sunset on Crater Lake George V. Caesar 117 * Amphitheatre of Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis 118 * Avalanche falling on Willis Wall Photo, Lea Bronson; Copyright, P. V. Caesar 119{p. 012} * Birth of Carbon River A. H. Waite 120 The Mountaineers building trail on Carbon Moraine Asahel Curtis 121 The Mountaineers lunching in a crevasse Asahel Curtis 121 Looking southeast from Mt. Rose George V. Caesar 122 Looking south from Mt. Rose, across Crater Lake George V. Caesar 123 * Looking up North Mowich Valley Asahel Curtis 124 * Spray Falls Asahel Curtis 125 * A Rescue from a Crevasse E. S. Curtis 126 Returning from the Summit Asahel Curtis 126 * View across Moraine Park and Carbon Glacier to Mother Mountains Asahel Curtis 129 Senecio Mrs. Alexander Thompson 129 A 14-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake A. H. Barnes 130 Indian Pipe J. B. Flett 131 Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park A. H. Barnes 131 Mosses and Ferns in the Forest Reserve Charles Bedford 132 A Bank of White Heather Asahel Curtis 133 Hellebore Mrs. Alexander Thompson 133 Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies Mrs. H. A. Towne 134 Mountain Asters A. H. Barnes 134 Studying the Phlox J. B. Flett 135 Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily Miss Jessie Kershaw 135 Avalanche Lilies Asahel Curtis 136 * Moraine Park, Sluiskin Mountains and Mystic Lake Asahel Curtis 136 Sunrise in Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes 137 Anemone Seed Pods Asahel Curtis 138 Wind-swept Trees on North Side George V. Caesar 139 Lupines Herbert W. Gleason 139 * The Mountain, seen from Green River Hot Springs C. E. Cutter 140 Glacial debris on lower Winthrop Asahel Curtis 142 An Alpine Climbers' Cabin From Whymper's "Chamonix and Mt. Blanc" 144 [Illustration: White River Canyon, from the terminal moraine of WhiteGlacier. A fine example of glacial sculpture. The river seen in thedistance is 2, 000 feet below the plateau through which the glacier hascarved this valley. ] [Illustration {p. 013}: Telephoto view from near Electron, 20 miles, showing vast summit plateau left when the Mountain blew its head off. 1. Crater Peak, built by the two small, modern craters. 2. South Peak, or Peak Success. 3. North Peak, or Liberty Cap. 4. North TahomaGlacier. 5. Puyallup Glacier. 6. South Mowich Glacier. 7. North Mowich Glacier. 8. Snow Cap above Carbon Glacier. The summitpeaks (1, 2 and 3) form a triangle, each side of which is two miles ormore in length. ] [Illustration {p. 014}: View of the Mountain from Fox Island, forty-two miles northwest, with part of Puget Sound in theforeground. ] {p. 015} THE MOUNTAIN SPEAKS. I am Tacoma, Monarch of the Coast! Uncounted ages heaped my shining snows; The sun by day, by night the starry host, Crown me with splendor; every breeze that blows Wafts incense to my altars; never wanes The glory my adoring children boast, For one with sun and sea Tacoma reigns. Tacoma--the Great Snow Peak--mighty name My dusky tribes revered when time was young! Their god was I in avalanche and flame-- In grove and mead and songs my rivers sung, As blithe they ran to make the valleys fair-- Their Shrine of Peace where no avenger came To vex Tacoma, lord of earth and air. Ah! when at morn above the mists I tower And see my cities gleam by slope and strand, What joy have I in this transcendent dower-- The strength and beauty of my sea-girt land That holds the future royally in fee! And lest some danger, undescried, should lower, From my far height I watch o'er wave and lea. And cloudless eves when calm in heaven I rest, All rose-bloom with a glow of paradise, And through my firs the balm-wind of the west, Blown over ocean islands, softly sighs, While placid lakes my radiant image frame-- And know my worshippers, in loving quest, Will mark my brow and fond lips breathe my name: Enraptured from my valleys to my snows, I charm my glow to crimson--soothe to gray; And when the encircling shadow deeper grows, Poise, a lone cloud, beside the starry way. Then, while my realm is hushed from steep to shore, I yield my grandeur to divine repose, And know Tacoma reigns forevermore! South Framingham, Mass. March, 1911. Edna Dean Proctor [Illustration {p. 016}: Copyright, 1906, By Romans Photographic Co. The most kingly of American mountains, seen from beautiful LakeWashington, Seattle, distance sixty miles. ] {p. 017}[Illustration: A party of climbers on Winthrop Glacier. ] THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD. " I. MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION. Long hours we toiled up through the solemn wood, Beneath moss-banners stretched from tree to tree; At last upon a barren hill we stood, And, lo, above loomed Majesty. --_Herbert Bashford: "Mount Rainier. "_ The great Mountain fascinates us by its diversity. It is aninspiration and yet a riddle to all who are drawn to the mysterious orwho love the sublime. Every view which the breaking clouds vouchsafeto us is a surprise. It never becomes commonplace, save to thecommonplace. [Illustration: Ice Terraces on South Tahoma Glacier. These vast stepsare often seen where a glacier moves down a steep and irregularslope. ] Old Virgil's gibe at mankind's better half--"varium et mutabile semperfemina"--might have been written of this fickle shape of rock and iceand vapor. One tries vainly, year after year, to define it in his ownmind. The daily, hourly change of distance, size and aspect, trickswhich the Indian's mountain {p. 018} god plays with the punycreatures swarming more and more about his foot; his days of frankneighborliness, his swift transformations from smiles to anger, hisfits of sullenness and withdrawal, all baffle study. Even though welive at its base, it is impossible to say we know the Mountain, sovarious are the spells the sun casts over this huge dome which it isslowly chiseling away with its tools of ice, and which, in comingcenturies, it will level with the plain. [Illustration: Mineral Lake and the Mountain. Distance, eighteenmiles. ] We are lovers of the water as well as the hills, out here in thisnorthwestern corner of the Republic. We spend many days--and shouldspend more--in cruising among the hidden bays and park-like islandswhich make Puget Sound the most interesting body of water in America. We grow a bit boastful about the lakes that cluster around our cities. Nowhere better than from sea level, or from the lakes raised butlittle above it, does one realize the bulk, the dominance, and yet thegrace, of this noble peak. Its impressiveness, indeed, arises in partfrom the fact that it is one of the few great volcanic mountains whoseentire height may be seen from tide level. Many of us can recall viewsof it from Lake Washington at Seattle, or from American or SpanawayLake at Tacoma, or from the Sound, which will always haunt the memory. [Illustration: Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake, viewed from nearMineral Lake Inn. ] Early one evening, last summer, I went with a friend to PointDefiance, Tacoma's fine park at the {p. 021} end of the promontoryon which the city is built. We drank in refreshment from the picturethere unrolled of broad channels and evergreen shores. As sunsetapproached, we watched the western clouds building range upon range ofgolden mountains above the black, Alp-like crags of the Olympics. Then, entering a small boat, we rowed far out northward into theSound. Overhead, and about us, the scenes of the great panorama wereswiftly shifted. The western sky became a conflagration. Twilightsettled upon the bay. The lights of the distant town came out, one byone, and those of the big smelter, near by, grew brilliant. No Turnerever dreamed so glorious a composition of sunlight and shade. But wewere held by one vision. [Illustration {p. 019}: View from Electron, showing west side of themountain, with a vast intervening country of forested ranges and deepcanyons. ] {p. 021}[Illustration: Nisqually Canyon. ... "Where the mountain wall Is piled to heaven, and through the narrow rift Of the vast rocks, against whose rugged feet Beats the mad torrent with perpetual roar: Where noonday is as twilight, and the wind Comes burdened with the everlasting moan Of forests and far-off waterfalls. "--Whittier. ] Yonder, in the southeast, towering above the lower shadows of harborand hills, rose a vast pyramid of soft flame. The setting sun hadthrown a mantle of rose pink over the ice of the glaciers and thegreat cleavers of rock which buttress the mighty dome. The roundedsummit was warm with beautiful orange light. Soon the colors upon itsslope changed to deeper reds, and then to amethyst, and {p. 023}violet, and pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell away todark neutral tints. But the fires upon the crest burned on, deepeningfrom gold to burnished copper, a colossal beacon flaming high againstthe sunset purple of the eastern skies. Finally, even this great lightpaled to a ghostly white, as the supporting foundation of mountainridges dropped into the darkness of the long northern twilight, untilthe snowy summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but a veil ofuncanny mist, caught up by the winds from the Pacific and floating farabove the black sky-line of the solid Cascades, that * * * heaven-sustaining bulwark, reared Between the East and West. [Illustration {p. 022}: Copyright, 1900, By A. H. Waite. North Peak, or Liberty Cap, and South Mowich Glacier in storm, seen from analtitude of 6, 000 feet, on ridge between South Mowich and PuyallupGlaciers. The glacier, 2, 000 feet below, is nearly half a mile wide. Note the tremendous wall of ice in which it ends. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1900, By A. H. Waite. Basaltic Columns, partof the "Colonnade" on south side of South Mowich Glacier. Thesecurious six-sided columns of volcanic rock are similar to thosebordering the Cowlitz Glacier. ] [Illustration: Mountain Goat, an accidental snap-shot of the fleet andwary Mazama; godfather of the famous Portland mountain club. ] And when even that apparition had faded, and the Mountain appearedonly as an uncertain bulk shadowed upon the night, then came themiracle. Gradually, the east, beyond the great hills, showed a faintsilver glow. Silhouetted against this dim background, the profile ofthe peak grew definite. With no other warning, suddenly from itssummit the full moon shot forth, huge, majestic and gracious, floodingthe lower world with brightness. Clouds and mountain ranges alikeshone with its glory. But the great peak loomed blacker and moresullen. Only, on its head, the wide crown of snow gleamed white underthe cold rays of the moon. [Illustration {p. 024}: West Side of the summit, seen from Tahoma Forkof the Nisqually, on road to Longmire Springs. Note the whiteness ofthe glacial water. This stream is fed by the united Tahoma glaciers. See pp. 32 and 37. ] {p. 025}[Illustration: Iron and Copper Mountains (right) in Indian Henry's. The top of Pyramid Peak shows in the saddle beyond with Peak Successtowering far above. ] No wonder that this mountain of changing moods, overtopping everyother eminence in the Northwest, answered the idea of God to thesimple, imaginative mind of the Indians who hunted in the forest onits slopes or fished in the waters of Whulge that ebbed and flowed atits base. Primitive peoples in every land have deified superlativemanifestations of nature--the sun, the wind, great rivers, andwaterfalls, the high mountains. By all the tribes within sight of itssummit, this pre-eminent peak, variously called by them Tacoma(Tach-ho´ma), Tahoma or Tacob, as who should say "The Great Snow, " wasdeemed a power to be feared and conciliated. Even when themissionaries taught them a better faith, they continued to hold theMountain in superstitious reverence--an awe that still has power tosilence their "civilized" and very unromantic descendants. [Illustration: Cutting steps up Paradise Glacier. ] The Puget Sound tribes, with the Yakimas, Klickitats and others livingjust beyond the Cascades, had substantially the same language andbeliefs, though differing much in physical and mental type. {p. 026}East of the range, they lived by the chase. They were great horsemenand famous runners, a breed of lithe, upstanding, competent men, askeen of wit as they were stately in appearance. These were "the nobleRed Men" of tradition. Fennimore Cooper might have found many a heroworthy of his pen among the savages inhabiting the fertile valley ofthe Columbia, which we now call the Inland Empire. But here on theCoast were the "Digger" tribes, who subsisted chiefly by spearingsalmon and digging clams. Their stooped figures, flat faces, downcasteyes and low mentality reflected the life they led. Contrasting theirheavy bodies with their feeble legs, which grew shorter with disuse, aTacoma humorist last summer gravely proved to a party of Englishvisitors that in a few generations more, had not the white man seizedtheir fishing grounds, the squatting Siwashes would have had no legsat all! [Illustration: Great Crag on the ridge separating the North and SouthTahoma Glaciers, with Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually visible severalmiles below. This rock is seen right of center on page 27. ] [Illustration: The Marmot, whose shrill whistle is often heard amongthe crags. ] Stolid and uninspired as he seemed to the whites, the Indian of theSound was not without his touch of poetry. He had that imaginativecuriosity which marked the native {p. 028} American everywhere. Hewas ever peering into the causes of things, and seeing thesupernatural in the world around him. [1] [Footnote 1: Among those who have studied the Puget Sound Indians most sympathetically is the Rev. Mr. Hylebos of Tacoma. He came to the Northwest in 1870, when the census gave Tacoma a white population of seventy-three. In those days, says Father Hylebos, the Tacoma tideflats, now filled in for mills and railway terminals, were covered each autumn with the canoes of Indians spearing salmon. It was no uncommon thing to see at one time on Commencement Bay 1, 800 fishermen. This veteran worker among the "Siwashes" (French "_sauvages_") first told me the myths that hallowed the Mountain for every native, and the true meaning of the beautiful Indian word "Tacoma. " He knew well all the leaders of the generation before the railways: Sluiskin, the Klickitat chief who guided Stevens and Van Trump up to the snow-line in 1870; Stanup, chief of the Puyallups; Kiskax, head of the Cowlitz tribe; Angeline, the famous daughter of Chief Seattle, godfather of the city of that name, and many others. ] [Illustration {p. 027}: View from Beljica, showing the deeply indentedwest side of the Mountain. Beginning at extreme right, the glaciersare, successively: Kautz, South Tahoma, North Tahoma and Puyallup. Inthe left foreground is the canyon of Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually, which is fed by the Tahoma glaciers. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Mountain Pine, one ofthe last outposts of the forest below the line of eternal snow. ] To the great Snow Mountain the Indians made frequent pilgrimages, forthey thought this king of the primeval wild a divinity to be reckonedwith. They dreaded its anger, seen in the storms about its head, thethunder of its avalanches, and the volcanic flashes of which theirtraditions told. They courted its favor, symbolized in the wildflowers that bloomed on its slope, and the tall grass that fed themowich, or deer. [Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Mount Wow, or GoatMountain, above Mesler's. ] As they ascended the vast ridges, the grandeur about them spoke of themountain god. There were groves of trees he must have planted, soorderly were they set out. The lakes of the lofty valleys seemedcalmer than those on the prairies below, the foliage brighter, theferns taller and more graceful. The song of the waterfalls here wassweeter than the music of the tamahnawas men, their Indian sorcerers. The many small meadows close to the snow-line, carpeted in deepestgreen and spread with flowers, were the gardens of the divinity, tended by his superhuman agents. Strange as it may seem, thenature-worship of the silent Red Man had many points in common withthat of the imaginative, volatile Greek, who {p. 030} peopled hismountains with immortals; and no wood in ancient Greece was everthronged with hamadryads more real than the little gods whom theIndian saw in the forests watered by streams from Tacoma's glaciers. [Illustration {p. 029}: Rounded Cone of Mt. St. Helens, seen fromIndian Henry's, forty-five miles away. ] [Illustration: View northward in early summer from Eagle Peak, atwestern end of the Tatoosh. Gibraltar Rock and Little Tahoma break theeastern sky-line. On the extreme right lies Paradise Valley, still deepin snow, with the canyon of Paradise River below it. Next is seen theNisqually Glacier, with Nisqually River issuing from its snout. Thencome Van Trump Glacier (an "interglacier"), and the big Kautz Glacier, dropping into its own deep canyon. Beyond the Kautz, Pyramid Peak andIron and Copper Mountains rise on the Indian Henry plateau. The TahomaGlaciers close the view westward. ] [Illustration {p. 031}: Copyright, 1907, By Pillsbury Picture Co. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Linkletter Photo. CO. Eagle Peak(Indian name, Simlayshe) at west end of the Tatoosh. Altitude about6, 000 feet. A pony trail three miles long leads up from the Inn. ] Countless snows had fallen since the mountain god created andbeautified this home of his, when one day he grew angry, and in hiswrath showed terrible tongues of fire. Thus he ignited an immense firforest on the south side of the peak. When his anger subsided, theflames passed, and the land they left bare became covered with bluegrass and wild flowers--a great sunny country where, before, the darkforest had been. Borrowing a word from the French _coureurs des bois_who came with the Hudson's Bay Company, the later Indians sometimescalled this region "the Big Brulé"; and to this day some Americanscall it the same. But for the Big Brulé the Indians had, from ancienttimes, another name, connected with their ideas of religion. It wastheir Saghalie Illahe, the "Land of Peace, " Heaven. Our name, "Paradise Valley, " {p. 031} given to the beautiful open vale on thesouth slope of the Mountain, is an English equivalent. Here was the same bar to violence which religion has erected in manylands. The Hebrews had their "Cities of Refuge. " The pagan ancientsmade every altar an asylum. Mediæval Christianity constituted all itschurches sanctuaries. Thus, in lawless ages, the hand of vengeance wasstayed, and the weak were protected. [Illustration: Exploring an Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier. ] So, too, the Indian tradition ordained this home of rest and refuge. Indian custom was an eye for an eye, but on gaining this mountainhaven the pursued was safe from his pursuer, the slayer might not betouched by his victim's kindred. When he crossed its border, thewarrior laid down his arms. Criminals and cowards, too, were oftensent here by the chiefs to do penance. [Illustration: Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers, viewedfrom Indian Henry's. The main ice stream thus formed, seen in theforeground, feeds Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually River. The Northernpart of North Tahoma Glacier, seen in the distance beyond the wedge ofrocks, feeds a tributary of the Puyallup. ] The mountain divinity, with his under-gods, figures in much of theSiwash {p. 032} folklore, and the "Land of Peace" is often heard of. It is through such typical Indian legends as that of Miser, the greedyhiaqua hunter, that we learn how large a place the great Mountainfilled in the thought of the aborigines. [Illustration: Anemones, a familiar mountain flower. ] This myth also explains why no Red Man could ever be persuaded to anascent beyond the snow line. As to the Greek, so to the Indian thegreat peaks were sacred. The flames of an eruption, the fall of anavalanche, told of the wrath of the mountain god. The clouds thatwrapped the summit of Tacoma spelled mystery and peril. Even so shrewdand intelligent a Siwash as Sluiskin, with all his keenness for"Boston chikamin, " the white man's money, refused to accompany Stevensand Van Trump in the first ascent, in 1870; indeed, he gave them up asdoomed, and bewailed their certain fate when they defied theMountain's wrath and started for the summit in spite of his warnings. [Illustration {p. 033}: Copyright 1910, A. H. WAITE. North TahomaGlacier, flowing out of the huge cleft in the west side, between Northand South Peaks. A great rock wedge splits the glacier, turning partof the ice stream northward into the Puyallup, while the other part, on the right pours down to join South Tahoma Glacier. Note how thepromontory of rock in the foreground has been rounded and polished bythe ice. Compare this view with pages 32 and 37. ] [Illustration {p. 034}: Snow Lake in Indian Henry's, surrounded byAlpine firs, which grow close to the snow line. Elevation about 6, 000feet. ] The hero of the Hiaqua Myth is the Indian {p. 035} Rip VanWinkle. [2] He dwelt at the foot of Tacoma, and, like Irving's worthy, he was a mighty hunter and fisherman. He knew the secret pools wherefish could always be found, and the dark places in the forest, wherethe elk hid when snows were deepest. But for these things Miser carednot. His lust was all for hiaqua, the Indian shell money. [Footnote 2: This legend is well told in "Myths and Legends of the Pacific Northwest, " a delightful book by Katharine B. Judson of the Seattle Public Library (Chicago, A. C. McClurg & Co. ). See also Prof. W. D. Lyman's papers in "Mazama" Vol. 2, and "The Mountaineer, " Vol. 2; and Winthrop's "Canoe and Saddle. "] [Illustration: A fair Mountaineer at the timber line. Note herequipment, including shoe calks. ] Now, Miser's totem was Moosmoos, the elk divinity. So Miser tried, even while hunting the elk, to talk with them, in order to learn wherehiaqua might be found. One night Moosmoos persuaded him that on top ofthe Mountain he would find great store of it. Making him two elk-hornpicks, and filling his ikta with dried salmon and kinnikinnick, heclimbed in two nights and a day to the summit. Here he found three bigrocks, one like a camas root, one like a salmon's head, the third likehis friendly Moosmoos. Miser saw that Moosmoos had told him truly. [Illustration {p. 036}: View of Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from apoint on South Tahoma Glacier, looking across to Copper and IronMountains, with Mt. St. Helens above the clouds far beyond. Thisfamous upland plateau or "park" gets its name from the fact that itwas, years ago, the favorite haunt of a celebrated Indian hunter. ] [Illustration {p. 037}: Southwest side of the Mountain as seen fromIndian Henry's, showing North and South Tahoma Glaciers meeting inforeground, and Kautz Glacier on extreme right. ] After long digging, Miser overturned the rock that was like the elk'shead. Beneath lay a vast quantity of hiaqua. This he strung on elk'ssinews--enough of it to make him the richest of men. Then he hurriedto depart. But he left no thank-offering to the tanahnawas powers. Thereupon the whole earth shook with a mighty convulsion, and themountain shot forth terrible fires, which melted the snows and pouredfloods down the slopes, where they were turned to ice again by thebreath of the storm-god. And above the roar of torrents and the crashof thunder, {p. 038} Miser heard the voices of all the tamahnawas, hissing: "Hiaqua! Hiaqua! Ha, ha, Hiaqua!" [Illustration: Climbing Pinnacle Peak, in the Tatoosh. Elevation 6, 500feet. The route leads up from Paradise Valley, over the steep snowfield shown in the lower view, and thence by a difficult trail to thesummit. ] Panic-stricken at the results of his greed, Miser threw down his loadof treasure to propitiate the angry tamahnawas. But the storm-godhurled him down the mountain side. Miser fell into a deep sleep. Many, many snows after, he awoke to find himself far from the summit, in apleasant country of beautiful meadows carpeted with flowers, aboundingin camas roots, and musical with the song of birds. He had grown veryold, with white hair falling to his shoulders. His ikta was empty, save for a few dried leaves. Recognizing the scene about him asSaghalie Illahe, he sought his old tent. It was where he had left it. There, too, was his klootchman, or wife, grown old, like himself. Thirty snows, she said, she had awaited his return. Back they went totheir {p. 039} home on the bank of the Cowlitz, where he became afamous tamahnawas man, and spent the rest of his days in honor, forhis tribesmen recognized that the aged Indian's heart had beenmarvelously softened and his mind enriched by his experience upon thepeak. He had lost his love for hiaqua. [Illustration: A silhouette on Pinnacle Peak, with Paradise Valley andthe Nisqually Glacier below. ] Among the familiar myths of the Mountain was one of a great flood, notunlike that of Noah. I quote Miss Judson's version: WHY THERE ARE NO SNAKES ON TAKHOMA. A long, long time ago, Tyhce Sahale became angry with his people. Sahale ordered a medicine man to take his bow and arrow and shoot into the cloud which hung low over Takhoma. The medicine man shot the arrow, and it stuck fast in the cloud. Then he shot another into the lower end of the first. Then he shot another into the lower end of the second. He shot arrows until he had made a chain which reached from the cloud to the earth. The medicine man told his klootchman and his children to climb up the arrow trail. Then he told the good animals to climb up the arrow trail. Then the medicine man climbed up himself. Just as he was climbing into the cloud, he looked back. A long line of bad animals and snakes were also climbing up the arrow trail. Therefore the medicine man broke the chain of arrows. Thus the snakes and bad animals fell down on the mountain side. Then at once it began to rain. It rained until all the land was flooded. Water reached even to the snow line of Takhoma. When all the bad animals and snakes were drowned, it stopped raining. After a while the waters sank again. Then the medicine man and his klootchman and the children climbed out of the cloud and came down the mountain side. The good animals also climbed out of the cloud. Thus there are now no snakes or bad animals on Takhoma. [Illustration: Copyright, 1897, by E. S. Curtis. Rough Climbing, anillustration of perils encountered in crossing the glaciers. ] Childish and fantastic as they seem to our wise age, such legends showthe Northwestern Indian struggling to interpret the world about him. Like savages everywhere, he peopled the unknown with spirits good andbad, and mingled his conception of a beneficent deity with his ideasof the evil one. Symbolism pervaded his crude but very positive mind. Ever by his side the old Siwash felt the Power that dwelt on Tacoma, protecting and aiding him, or leading him to destruction. Knowing{p. 040} nothing of true worship, his primitive intelligence couldimagine God only in things either the most beautiful or the mostterrifying; and the more we know the Mountain, the more easily weshall understand why he deemed the majestic peak a factor of hisdestiny--an infinite force that could, at will, bless or destroy. Forto us, too, though we have no illusions as to its supernatural powers, the majestic peak may bring a message. Before me is a letter from aninspiring New England writer, who has well earned the right toappraise life's values. "I saw the great Mountain three years ago, "she says; "would that it might ever be my lot to see it again! I loveto dream of its glory, and its vast whiteness is a moral force in mylife. " Perpetual And snowy tabernacle of the land, While purples at thy base this peaceful sea, And all thy hither slopes in evening bathe, I hear soft twilight voices calling down From all thy summits unto prayer and love. --_Francis Brooks: "Mt. Rainier. "_ [Illustration: Ptarmigan, the Grouse of the ice-fields. Unlike itsneighbor, the Mountain Goat, this bird is tame, and may sometimes becaught by hand. In winter its plumage turns from brown to white. ] [Illustration: The Mountain, seen from Puyallup River, near Tacoma. ] [Illustration {p. 041}: Falls of the Little Mashell River, nearEatonville and the road to the Mountain. ] [Illustration {p. 042}: Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs and theNational Park Inn, showing the tall, clear trunks of the giant firs. ] {p. 043}[Illustration: On Pierce County's splendid scenic road to theMountain. Passing Ohop Valley. ] II. THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS. There are plenty of higher mountains, but it is the decided isolation--the absolute standing alone in full majesty of its own mightiness--that forms the attraction of Rainier. * * * It is no squatting giant, perched on the shoulders of other mountains. From Puget Sound, it is a sight for the gods, and one feels in the presence of the gods. --_Paul Fountain: "The Seven Eaglets of the West"_ (London, 1905). The first explorers to climb the Mountain, forty years ago, werecompelled to make their way from Puget Sound through the dense growthsof one of the world's greatest forests, over lofty ridges and deepcanyons, and across perilous glacial torrents. The hardships of ajourney to the timber line were more formidable than the difficultiesencountered above it. [Illustration: Cowlitz Chimneys, seen from basin below Frying-PanGlacier. ] Even from the East the first railroad to the Coast had just reachedSan Francisco. Thence the traveler came north to the Sound by boat. The now busy cities of Seattle and Tacoma were, one, an ambitiousvillage of 1, 107 inhabitants; the other, a sawmill, with seventypersons living around it. They were frontier settlements, outposts of{p. 044} civilization; but civilization paid little attention to themand their great Mountain, until the railways, some years later, beganto connect them with the big world of people and markets beyond theRockies. [Illustration: On the way out from Tacoma, over the partly woodedprairie, the automobilist sees many scenes like this old road nearSpanaway Lake. ] How different the case to-day! Six transcontinental railroads nowdeliver their trains in the Puget Sound cities. These are: TheNorthern Pacific, which was the first trunk line to reach the Sound;the Great Northern; the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy; the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound; the Oregon-Washington (Union Pacific), andthe Canadian Pacific. A seventh, the North Coast, is planned. [Illustration {p. 046}: View Northward from top of Pinnacle Peak inthe Tatoosh range to Paradise Valley, Nisqually Glacier and GibraltarRock, eight miles away. ] [Illustration {p. 047}: Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak, across Paradise, Stevens, Cowlitz and Frying Pan Glaciers. These twoviews form virtually a panorama. ] Arriving in Seattle or Tacoma, the traveler has his choice of quickand enjoyable routes to the Mountain. He may go by automobile, leavingeither city in the morning. After traveling one of the best and mostinteresting roads in the country--the only one, in fact, to reach aglacier--he may take luncheon at noon six thousand feet higher, inParadise Park, overlooking great glaciers and close to the line ofeternal snow. Or he may go by the comfortable trains of the TacomaEastern (Milwaukee system) to Ashford, fifty-five miles from Tacoma, and then by automobile stages, over a picturesque portion of the finehighway just mentioned, to the National Park Inn at Longmire Springs(altitude 2, 762 feet). Lunching there, he may then go on, by coachover the new government road, or on horseback over one of the mostinviting mountain trails in America, or afoot, as many prefer. Thus he{p. 049} gains Paradise Park and its far-reaching observationpoint, Camp of the Clouds (elevation, 5, 800 feet). From the Inn, too, another romantic bridle path leads to Indian Henry's famous HuntingGround, equally convenient as a base of adventure. [Illustration: Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon, Pierce CountyRoad to the Mountain. ] [Illustration: Prof. O. D. Allen's cottage, in the Forest Reserve, where the former Yale professor has for years studied the flora of theMountain. ] Whether the visitor goes to the Mountain by train or by automobile, his choice will be a happy one. For either route leads through acountry of uncommon charm. Each of them, too, will carry the visitorup from the Sound to the great and beautiful region on the southernslopes which includes the Tahoma, Kautz, Nisqually, Paradise andStevens canyons, with their glaciers and the wonderful upland plateausor "parks" that lie between. [Illustration: "Ghost Trees" in Indian Henry's. These white stalkstell of fires set by careless visitors. ] Here let him stay a day or a month. Every moment of his time will becrowded with new experiences and packed with enjoyment. For here issport to last for many months. He may content himself with a day spentin coasting down a steep snow-field in midsummer, snowballing hiscompanions, and climbing Alta Vista to look down on the big Nisquallyglacier in the deep bed which it has {p. 050} carved for itself, andup its steep slopes to its névé field on the summit. Or he may explorethis whole region at his leisure. He may climb the hard mountaintrails that radiate from Longmires and Paradise. He may work up overthe lower glaciers, studying their crevasses, ice caves and flow. Hewill want to ascend some of the tempting crags of the ragged Tatoosh, for the panorama of ice-capped peaks and dark, forested ranges whichis there unfolded. After a week or two of such "trying-out, " todevelop wind and harden muscle, he may even scale the great Mountainitself under the safe lead of experienced guides. He may wander atwill over the vast platform left by a prehistoric explosion whichtruncated the cone, and perhaps spend a night of sensational novelty(and discomfort) in a big steam cave, under the snow, inside a deadcrater. The south side has the advantage of offering the wildest alpine sportin combination with a well-appointed hotel as a base of operations. Hence the majority of visitors know only that side. Everybody shouldknow it, too, for there is not a nobler playground anywhere; butshould also know that it is by no means the only side to see. One may, of course, work around from the Nisqually canyon andParadise, east or west, to the other glaciers and "parks. " It is quitepracticable, if not easy, to make the trip eastward from Camp of theClouds, crossing Paradise, Stevens and Cowlitz glaciers, and thus toreach the huge White glacier on the east side and Winthrop and Carbonglaciers on the north. Every summer sees more and more visitors makingthis wonderful journey. But the usual way to reach the great north side, especially forparties which carry camp equipment, is by a Northern Pacific trainover the Carbonado branch to Fairfax. This is on Carbon river, fivemiles from the northwest corner of the National Park. Thence thetraveler will go by horse or afoot, over a safe mountain trail, toSpray Park, the fascinating region between Carbon and North Mowich{p. 051} glaciers. Standing here, on such an eminence as Fay Peak orEagle Cliff, he may have views of the Mountain in its finest aspectsthat will a thousand times repay the labor of attainment. [Illustration: Government Road in the Forest Reserve. ] [Illustration: "Hanging Glacier, " or ice fall, above Cowlitz Glacier. ] A visit to this less known but no less interesting side involves thenecessity of packing an outfit. But arrangements for horses andpackers are easily made, and each year an increasing number of partiesmake Spray Park their headquarters, spending, if they are wise, atleast a week in this wide region of flowering alpine valleys andcommanding heights. From there they go south, over the west-sideglaciers, or east, across the Carbon and through the great White rivercountry. They camp on the south side of the Sluiskin mountains, inMoraine Park, and there have ready access to Carbon and Winthropglaciers, with splendid views of the vast precipices that form thenorth face of the Mountain. Thence they climb east and south over theWinthrop and White glaciers. They visit the beautiful Grand Park andSummerland, and either make the ascent to the summit from "SteamboatProw" on the "Wedge, " over the long ice slope of the White glacier, orcontinue around to the Paradise country and Longmire Springs. {p. 052}[Illustration: Leaving the National Park Inn at Longmire Springs forParadise Park. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. On the Summit, showing Columbia's Crest, the great mound of snow that has, mostcuriously, formed on this wide, wind-swept platform. This, the actualtop of the Mountain, is 14, 363 feet above sea level. ] The west side has been less visited than the others, but there is atrail from the North Mowich to the Nisqually, and from thisadventurous explorers reach North and South Mowich and Puyallupglaciers. No one has yet climbed the Mountain over those glaciers, orfrom the north side. A view from any of the trails will explain why. The great rock spines are more precipitous than elsewhere, theglaciers more broken; and the summit is fronted on either side by ahuge parapet of rock which hurls defiance at anything short of anairship. Doubtless, we shall some day travel to Crater Peak byaeroplanes, but until these vehicles are equipped with {p. 054}runners for landing and starting on the snow, we shall do best to planour ascents from the south or east side. [Illustration {p. 053}: Paradise Valley or "Park, " and TatooshMountains, from slope below Paradise Glacier. The highest of the peaksare about 7, 000 feet above sea level and 1, 700 feet above the floor ofthe valley. ] [Illustration: On the Government Road a mile above Longmires, boundfor the Nisqually Glacier. ] [Illustration: Near "Gap Point, " where the road turns from theNisqually canyon into that of Paradise River. ] I have thus briefly pointed out the favorite routes followed inexploring the National Park. The time is fast approaching when it willbe a truly national recreation ground, well known to Americans inevery State. The coming of new railways to Puget Sound and thedevelopment of new facilities for reaching the Mountain make thiscertain. [3] [Footnote 3: For details as to rates for transportation, accommodations and guides, with the rules governing the National Park, see the notes at end of the book. ] [Illustration: Snout of Nisqually Glacier, with the river which itfeeds. Though much shrunken since the epoch when it filled the wholecanyon, the glacier is still a vast river of ice; and its front, seenseveral hundred yards above the bridge, rises sheer 500 feet. The newroad to Narada Falls and Paradise Park crosses the Nisqually here. Automobiles are not permitted to go above this point. ] Every step taken for the conservation of the natural beauty of thePark and its opening to proper use and enjoyment is a public benefit. Outside the national reserves, our lumbermen are fast destroying theforests; but, if properly guarded against fire, the great Park forestwill still teach future generations how lavishly Nature plants, justas the delightful glacial valleys and towering landmarks teach howpowerful and artistic a sculptor she is. Experienced travelers andalpinists {p. 055} who have visited the Mountain unite in declaringits scenery, combining as it does great vistas of ice with vaststretches of noble forest, to be unequaled elsewhere in America, andunsurpassed anywhere. In the fascination of its glacial story, as wellas in the grandeur of its features, it has few rivals among the greatpeaks of the world. The geologist, the botanist, the weary businessman, the sportsman, all find it calling them to study, to rest, or tostrenuous and profitable recreation. Here is a resource more lastingthan our timber. When the loggers shall have left us only nakedranges, without the reserves, the Park may yield a crop more valuable. [Illustration: Pony bridge over the Nisqually, on trail to Paradise. Note the granite boulders which the stream has rounded in rolling themdown from the glacier. ] *[Illustration: The road a mile above the bridge, overlookingNisqually Canyon and Glacier. ] *[Illustration: On the Pony Trail to Paradise. This trail windsthrough the dense forest above Longmires, crosses the Nisqually, andthen follows Paradise River, with its miles of picturesque cascades. It is one of the most beautiful mountain paths in America. ] Until recent years this was known only to the hardy few who delight indoing difficult things for great rewards. But that day of isolationhas passed. The value of the Park to the whole American people is more{p. 056} and more appreciated by them, if not yet by their officialrepresentatives. While Congress has dealt less liberally with thisthan with the other great National Parks, what it has appropriated hasbeen well spent in building an invaluable road, which opens one of themost important upland regions to public knowledge and use. This roadis a continuation of the well-made highway maintained by Pierce Countyfrom Tacoma, which passes through an attractive country of partlywooded prairies and follows the picturesque Nisqually valley up theheavily forested slopes to the Forest Reserve and the southwesterncorner of the Park. The public has been quick to seize the opportunitywhich the roads offered. The number of persons entering the Park, asshown by the annual reports of the Superintendent, has grown {p. 057}from 1, 786 in 1906 to more than 8, 000 in 1910. In the same period, theYellowstone National Park, with its greater age, its wideradvertising, its many hotels, its abundance of government money, increased its total of visitors from 17, 182 to 19, 575. [Illustration: Sierra Club lunching on Nisqually Glacier. The huge icewall in the distance is the west branch of the Nisqually, and issometimes miscalled "Stevens Glacier. " As seen here, it forms a"hanging glacier, " which empties into the main glacier over thecliff. ] For one thing, these roads have put it within the power ofautomobilists from all parts of the Coast to reach the grandest ofAmerican mountains and the largest glaciers of the United States southof Alaska. They connect at Tacoma, with excellent roads from Seattleand other cities on the Sound, as well as from Portland and pointsfarther south. The travel from these cities has already justified theconstruction of the roads, and is increasing every year. Even fromCalifornia many automobile parties visit the Mountain. The railwaytravel is also fast increasing, and the opening this year of itstranscontinental service by the Milwaukee Railway, which owns theTacoma Eastern line to Ashford, is likely soon to double the number ofthose who journey to the Mountain by rail. [Illustration: A Mountain Celery. ] [Illustration: Narada Falls, 185 feet, on Paradise River (altitude, 4, 572 feet). Both trail and road pass it. "Narada" is an East Indianword meaning "peace. " The name was given many years ago by a party ofTheosophists who visited the falls. Happily, the effort to change thename to "Cushman Falls" has failed. ] The new government road to Paradise and the trails {p. 058}connecting with it have, however made only a fraction of the Parkaccessible. The most important work for the conservation of this greatalpine area and its opening to the public still remains to be done. Congress is now asked to provide funds for the survey and gradualextension of the road to the other plateaus on all sides of the peak. Pending the construction of the road, it is highly important that, assoon as the surveys can be made, bridle trails be built on the easygrades thus established. Not only are these roads and trails muchneeded for the convenience of visitors to the Mountain, but, with thecloser approach of logging operations, they are year by year becomingmore necessary to the proper policing of the Park and its protectionagainst forest fires. For want of them, great sections of forestwithin the Park are liable to be swept away at any time, before therangers could find their way over the scant and broken trails nowexisting. The request for better access to the other sides of theMountain has received the earnest indorsement of the Washingtonlegislature, the commercial organizations of the entire Coast, and theseveral mountain clubs in different parts of the country. OnlyCongress remains blind to its importance. Congressional action affecting this immediate area began in 1899. Atract eighteen miles square, 207, 360 acres, to be known as "RanierNational Park, "[4] was {p. 059} withdrawn from the 2, 146, 600 acres ofthe Pacific Forest Reserve, previously created. The area thus setapart as "a public park for the benefit and enjoyment of the people"(Act of March 2, 1899) was already known to a few enthusiasts andexplorers as one of the world's great wonderlands. In 1861 JamesLongmire, a prospector, had built a trail from Yelm over Mashellmountain and up the Nisqually river to Bear Prairie. This he extendedin 1884 to the spot now known as Longmire Springs, and thence up theNisqually and Paradise rivers to the region now called Paradise Park. Part of this trail was widened later into a wagon road, used for manyyears by persons seeking health at the remarkable mineral springs onthe tract which the Longmires acquired from the government before theestablishment of the Forest Reserve. [Footnote 4: For some years, Congress and the Interior Department spelled it "Ranier"! A well-known Congressman from Seattle corrected their spelling of the name of the forgotten admiral, and it has since been officially "Rainier National Park. "] [Illustration: Washington Torrents, on Paradise River; a series offalls a mile in length, seen from the new road to Paradise and stillbetter from the pony trail. ] [Illustration: Portion of Paradise Park and the Tatoosh Range. ] The Longmire road, rough as it was, long remained the best route; butin 1903 the Mountain found a tireless friend in the late Francis W. Cushman, representative from this State, who persuaded Congress toauthorize the survey and construction of a better highway. Work wasnot begun, however, until 1906. The {p. 061} yearly appropriationshave been small, and total only $240, 000 for surveys, construction andmaintenance, to the end of the last session. [Illustration {p. 060}: View from north side of the Tatoosh. 1. CraterPeak. 2. South Peak, or Peak Success. 3. Nisqually Glacier, withfeeders. 4. Gibraltar Rock. 5. Camp Muir, on Cowlitz Cleaver. 6. Cathedral Rocks. 7. Little Tahoma. 8. Paradise Glacier. 9. Alta Vista. 10. Camp of the Clouds. 11. Reese's Camp. 12. Sluiskin Falls. 13. Paradise River and Valley. 14. Mazama Ridge. 15. Reflection Lake. 16. Van Trump Glacier. 17. Von Trump Park. 18. Kautz Glacier. 19. Pyramid Peak. 20. Tahoma Glaciers. 21. Indian Henry's. Dotted lineshows South-side route to the summit. ] [Illustration: Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier. ] [Illustration: Mountain Sports. Tug of War between teams picked fromthe feminine contingent of the Mountaineers. ] The road, as now open to Paradise valley, is a monument to theengineering skill of Mr. Eugene Ricksecker, United States AssistantEngineer, in local charge of the work. Over its even floor you go fromthe west boundary of the Forest Reserve up the north bank of theNisqually river, as far as the foot of its glacier. Crossing on thebridge here, you climb up and up, around the face of a bluff known asGap Point, where a step over the retaining wall would mean a sheerdrop of a thousand feet into the river below. Thus you wind over tothe Paradise river and famous Narada Falls, switch back up the side ofthe deep Paradise canyon to the beautiful valley of the same nameabove, and, still climbing, reach Camp of the Clouds and itspicturesque tent hotel. The road has brought you a zigzag journey oftwenty-five miles to cover an air-line distance of twelve and a gainin elevation of 3, 600 feet. It is probably unique in its grades. Ithas no descents. Almost everywhere it is a gentle climb. {p. 062}Below Longmire Springs the maximum grade is 2. 5 per cent. , and theaverage, 1. 6 per cent. Beyond, the grade is steeper, but nowhere morethan 4 per cent. [Illustration: Copyright, 1911, By J. H. Weer. Tatoosh Mountains andParadise Park in Winter. ] The alignment and grades originally planned have been followed, butfor want of funds only one stretch, a mile and a quarter, has yet beenwidened to the standard width of eighteen feet. Lacking money for abroader road, the engineers built the rest of it twelve feet wide. They wisely believed that early opening of the route for vehicles toParadise, even though the road be less than standard width, wouldserve the public by making the Park better known, and thus arouseinterest in making it still more accessible. It will require about$60, 000 to complete the road to full width, and render it thoroughlysecure. [Illustration: Copyright, 1911, By J. H. Weer. Hiking through Paradise in Winter. ] Of still greater importance, however, to the safety of the Park andits opening to public use is the carrying out of Mr. Ricksecker's fineplan for a road around the Mountain. His new map of the Park, printedat the end of this volume, shows the route proposed. Leaving thepresent road near Christine Falls, below the Nisqually glacier, hewould double back over the hills to Indian Henry's, thence droppinginto the canyon of Tahoma {p. 064} Fork, climbing up to St. Andrew'sPark, and so working round to the Mowich glaciers, Spray Falls, andthe great "parks" on the north. The snout of each glacier would bereached in turn, and the high plateaus which the glaciers have leftwould be visited. [Illustration {p. 063}: Copyright, 1910, By Asahel Curtis. Waterfallfrom snowfields on ridge above Paradise Valley. ] [Illustration: Looking from Stevens Glacier down into Stevens Canyon, and across the Tatoosh and Cascade ranges to Mt. Adams. ] Crossing Spray Park, Moraine Park and Winthrop glacier's old bed, theroad would ascend to Grand Park and the Sour-Dough country--a regionunsurpassed anywhere on the Mountain for the breadth and grandeur ofits views. More descents, climbs and detours would bring it to thefoot of White glacier, and thence through Summerland and Cowlitz Park, and westward to a junction with the existing road in Paradise. Itselevation would range between four and seven thousand feet above thesea. The route, as indicated on the contour map, suggests very plainlythe engineering feats involved in hanging roads on these steep anddeeply-carved slopes. [Illustration: Reese's Camp, a tent hotel on a ridge in Paradise Park, below Camp of the Clouds (Elevation, 5, 557 feet). This is the usualstarting point of parties to the summit over the South-side route, viaGibraltar. See p. 60. ] Between eighty and a hundred miles of construction work would berequired, costing approximately $10, 000 a mile. Including thecompletion of the present {p. 067} road to standard width, Congresswill thus have to provide a round million if it wishes to givereasonable protection to the Park and fully achieve the purpose of"benefit and enjoyment" for which it was created. Such a road wouldjustify the Congress which authorizes it, immortalize the engineerswho build it, and honor the nation that owns it. [Illustration {p. 065}: Climbing the "horn" on the summit of UnicornPeak, the highest crag in the Tatoosh (Elevation, about 7, 000 feet). The man who first reached the top is dimly seen in the shadow on theleft. ] [Illustration {p. 066}: Stevens Canyon in October, with Mt. Adams overeastern end of Tatoosh range on right, and Cascade range on left. Thesnow summits on the Cascade sky-line are "Goat Peaks. " Goat Lick Basinis in lower left corner of the picture. ] [Illustration: Sluiskin Falls, 150 feet, just below Paradise Glacier, named after Sluiskin, the famous Indian who guided Van Trump andStevens to the snow line in 1870. ] Talking with President David Starr Jordan of Stanford University a fewweeks ago, I found that famous climber of mountains greatly interestedin the project for better roads and trails in the National Park. "Howmuch will the whole thing cost?" he asked. I told him. [Illustration: An eminent scientist practices the simple life in campnear the Timber Line. ] "Why, a million dollars would pay for the upkeep of one of ourbattleships for a whole year!" exclaimed the great advocate ofdisarmament. Whether Congress can be induced to value scenery ashighly as battleships remains to be seen. It has already done verywell by the Yellowstone National Park, where $2, 142, 720 of governmentmoney had been spent on road building and administration up to July 1, 1910. No one who knows the glories of that park will deem the amountexcessive. But with its still grander scenery, its important glaciers, its priceless forests, and the greater population within easy reach ofits opportunities for study and recreation, the claims of the RainierNational Park are at least equal to those of the Yellowstone, and theyshould be as liberally met. [Illustration {p. 068}: Nisqually Glacier, with its sources in thesnow field of the summit. On the right is Gibraltar Rock and on theextreme left Kautz Glacier flows down from Peak Success. Note themedial moraines, resulting from junction of ice streams above. Theseapparently small lines of dirt are often great ridges of rocks, cutfrom the cliffs. The picture also illustrates how the marginalcrevasses of a glacier point down stream from the center, though thecenter flows faster than the sides. ] {p. 069}[Illustration: The Sierra Club on Nisqually Glacier. This activeCalifornia organization sent a large party to the Mountain in 1905. ] It is not desired that the whole sum named be appropriated at once. Indeed, the recommendation of the engineers has been far more modest. As far back as 1907, Maj. H. M. Chittenden of the United StatesEngineer Corps, in charge, wrote as follows in his report to theSecretary of War: A bridle trail around the Mountain, just under the glacier line, is absolutely essential to the proper policing of the Park, and very necessary for the convenience of tourists, if they are really to have access to the attractions of the Park. The trail should be so located that in time it may be enlarged into a wagon road. [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, Asahel Curtis. Lost to the World, 7, 500 feet above sea level, with an ocean of cloud rising. ] This recommendation has been indorsed by Major Chittenden's successor, Maj. C. W. Kutz, and may be taken as expressing the conviction of thegovernment {p. 070} engineers as to the minimum of work needed in thePark at once. For the necessary surveys and the building of thetrails, Mr. Ricksecker informs me that $50, 000 will probably beenough. This is so insignificant in comparison with the good soughtand the value of the national property to be protected and madeaccessible that its immediate appropriation by Congress should bebeyond question. Nevertheless, half that amount has twice been askedfor in measures introduced by Senator S. H. Piles, but in neither casedid the appropriation pass both houses. It is to be hoped that thepresent Congress will give the full amount of $50, 000, which willenable the surveys to be completed over the entire route, and trailsto be built on most, if not all, of that route. Their widening intopermanent roads will follow in due time, when the wonders of glacier, canyon and forest which they make accessible are once known. [Illustration: "Sunshine. " View of the Mountain from above SluiskinFalls at 3 P. M. ] [Illustration: "Storm. " View near the same point an hour later. ] The road recently completed to Paradise Valley should be widened, byall means, and made safer by retaining walls at every danger point. But it is doubtful whether automobiles will ever be permitted abovethe bridge at the Nisqually glacier. Some automobile owners regard thePark as an automobile-club preserve, and insist that nothing more bedone toward the opening of its {p. 072} scenery or the conservationof its forest until it is made safe for them to run their touring carsinto Paradise. This is unfortunate, because it betrays ignorance ofthe purpose of Congress in creating the National Parks, namely, theeducation and enjoyment of all the people, not the pleasure of aclass. Moreover, no matter how wide or well-guarded the road may beabove the bridge, it can never be wide enough to prevent a recklesschauffeur from causing a terrible fatality. It is necessarily a verycrooked road, hung upon the high ledges of precipitous cliffs. Whilethe road is safe for coaches drawn by well-broken horses and driven bytrustworthy drivers, it would be criminal folly to open it to thecrowd of automobiles that would rush to Paradise Valley. Ifautomobiles are permitted to go beyond the Nisqually glacier, itshould be only when in charge of a park officer. [Illustration {p. 071}: Looking down on Nisqually Glacier from top ofGibraltar Rock, with storm clouds veiling the Mountain. ] [Illustration: Measuring the Ice Flow in Nisqually Glacier. In 1905Prof. J. N. Le Conte of Berkeley, Cal. , established the fact that thisglacier has an average flow, in summer, of 16. 2 inches a day. Themovement is greater at the center than on the sides, and greater onthe convex side of a curve than on the concave side. It thus is a trueriver, though a slow one. The measurements are taken by running a linefrom one lateral moraine to the other with a transit, setting stakesacross the glacier at short intervals, and ascertaining the advancethey make from day to day. ] Even from the older and wider roads of the Yellowstone automobileshave been excluded, although there are no large cities near by, asthere are here, to send hundreds of cars into that park on anypleasant day. The automobilists will be wise to accept their privilegeof access to the foot of the glacier, and use it with care, too. Several serious accidents have already occurred, and if greater careis not exercised, the Interior Department will apply the Yellowstonerule, at least to the extent of stopping all cars at Longmires. [Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Miss Fay Fullerexploring a crevasse. ] [Illustration {p. 073}: Copyright 1906, By A. H. Barnes. Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier. ] Questions like this, involving conflict between the interests of aclass and the vital needs of the Park as a public institution, {p. 075} give especial emphasis to the recommendation made bySecretary Ballinger on his last annual report. Owing to the greatnumber and extent of the National Parks, and the inefficiency of thepresent "perfunctory policy" in their administration, Mr. Ballingerasked Congress to put the management of these institutions under aBureau of National Parks, conducted by a competent commissioner, andorganized for efficient field administration and careful inspection ofall public work and of the conduct of concessionaries. Regarding theneed of such a systematic and scientific organization for thedevelopment of the parks, he says: A definite policy for their maintenance, supervision and improvement should be established, which would enable them to be gradually opened up for the convenience of tourists and campers and for the careful preservation of their natural features. Complete and comprehensive plans for roads, trails, telegraph and telephone lines, sewer and water systems, hotel accommodations, transportation, and other conveniences should be made before any large amount of money is expended. The treatment of our national parks, except as regards the Yellowstone, has not heretofore had the benefit of any well-considered or systematic plans. In all of them the road and trail problems for public travel and convenience to enable tourists to obtain the benefits of scenic beauties are primary, but sewage, water, and electric-power problems are after all of equal importance. [Illustration: Fairy Falls in Goat Lick Basin, below Stevens Glacier. ] In line with Secretary Ballinger's report, Senator Flint of Californiaintroduced a bill authorizing the creation of such a bureau in theInterior Department. The bill failed to get through at the lastsession, but I am informed by Senator Jones that it will bereintroduced. Its purpose is of great public importance, and theindorsement of the very intelligent directors of the Sierra Club inCalifornia argues well for its form. Every person interested in thedevelopment of our National Parks to fullest usefulness and the properconservation of their natural beauty should work for the passage ofthe bill. [Illustration {p. 076}: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Gibraltar andits Neighbors, showing a mile of the deeply crevassed ice-field insidethe angle of which the great crag is the apex. On the left are CowlitzCleaver and the Bee-Hive; on the right, Cathedral Rocks. ] {p. 077}[Illustration: Crossing Carbon Glacier. On the ice slopes, itis customary to divide a large party into companies of ten, with anexperienced alpinist at the head of each. Note the medial moraines onthe glacier. ] III. THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN. I asked myself, How was this colossal work performed? Who chiseled these mighty and picturesque masses out of a mere protuberance of earth? And the answer was at hand. Ever young, ever mighty, with the vigor of a thousand worlds still within him, the real sculptor was even then climbing up the eastern sky. It was he who planted the glaciers on the mountain slopes, thus giving gravity a plough to open out the valleys; and it is he who, acting through the ages, will finally lay low these mighty monuments, * * * so that the people of an older earth may see mould spread and corn wave over the hidden rocks which at this moment bear the weight of the Jungfrau. --_John Tyndall: "Hours of Exercise in the Alps. "_ The life of a glacier is one eternal grind. --_John Muir. _ Our stately Mountain, in its youth, was as comely and symmetrical acone as ever graced the galaxy of volcanic peaks. To-day, while stillyoung as compared with the obelisk crags of the Alps, it has alreadytaken on the venerable and deeply-scarred physiognomy of a veteran. Itis no longer merely an overgrown boy among the hills, but, cut andtorn by the ice of centuries, it is fast assuming the dignity andinterest of a patriarch of the mountains. [Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Reflection Lake, below Pinnacle Peak and the Mountain. ] To some, no doubt, the smooth, youthful contours of an active volcanoseem more beautiful than the rugged grandeur of the Weisshorn. Theperfect cone of Mt. St. Helens, until recently in eruption, pleasesthem more than the broad dome of Mt. Adams, rounded by an explosion inthe unknown past. But for those who love nature and the story writtenupon its {p. 079} face, mountains have character as truly as men, and they show it in their features as clearly. [Illustration {p. 078}: Looking up from Cowlitz Chimneys to Gibraltarand the summit. 1, Crater and Columbia's Crest. 2, Peak Success. 3, Upper snow fields of Nisqually Glacier. 4, Gibraltar Rock. 5, CowlitzCleaver. 6, Cathedral Rocks. 7, Little Tahoma. 8, Cowlitz Glacier. 9, Ingraham Glacier, emptying into the Cowlitz. ] [Illustration: Divide of Paradise and Stevens Glaciers. Once probablyseparated by a chine of rock, they are now one save for a slightelevation in their bed, which turns them respectively toward ParadiseValley and Stevens Canyon. ] [Illustration: Old Moraine of Stevens Glacier. Now comparatively smalland harmless, this glacier did heavy work in its prime. Witness, Stevens Canyon (p. 66) and this huge pile of debris, showing that sometime ago the glacier, finding a cliff in its way, cut it down anddumped it here. ] Nowhere is this better exemplified than in the monarch of theCascades. No longer the huge conical pimple which a volcano erected onthe earth's crust, it bears upon it the history of its own explosion, which scattered its top far over the landscape, and of its losingbattle with the sun, which, employing the heaviest of all {p. 080}tools, is steadily destroying it. It has already lost a tenth of itsheight and a third of its bulk. The ice is cutting deeper and deeperinto its sides. Upon three of them, it has excavated greatamphitheaters, which it is ceaselessly driving back toward the heartof the peak. As if to compensate for losses in size and shapeliness, the Mountain presents the most important phenomena of glacial actionto be seen in the United States. [Illustration: Climbers preparing for a night at Camp Muir (altitude10, 000 feet), in order to get an early start for the summit. This ison the Cowlitz Cleaver, below Gibraltar. John Muir, the famousmountain climber, selected this spot as a camp in 1888. A stout cabinshould be built here to shelter climbers. ] [Illustration: The Bee-Hive, a landmark on Cowlitz Cleaver, belowGibraltar. ] In its dimensions, however, it is still one of the world's greatpeaks. The Rainier National Park, eighteen miles square--as large asmany counties in the East--has an elevation along its western andlowest boundary averaging four thousand feet above sea level. Assuminga diameter for the peak of only twenty miles, the {p. 081} areaoccupied by this creature of a volcano exceeds three hundred squaremiles. Of its vast surface upwards of 32, 500 acres, or about fifty-onesquare miles, are covered by glaciers or the fields of perpetual snowwhich feed them. A straight line drawn through from the end of NorthTahoma glacier, on the west side, to the end of White glacier, on theeast, would be thirteen miles long. The circumference of the crest onthe 10, 000-foot contour is nearly seven miles. Its glacial system is, and doubtless has long been, the most extensive on the continent, south of Alaska; it is said by scientists to outrank that of anymountain in Europe. The twelve primary glaciers vary in length fromthree to eight miles, and from half a mile to three miles in width. There are nearly as many "interglaciers, " or smaller ice streams whichgather their snow supply, not from the névé fields of the summit, butwithin the wedges of rock which the greater glaciers have leftpointing upward on the higher slopes. [Illustration: Mazama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys, looking across theice-stream of the Cowlitz Glacier. ] [Illustration: Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to Gibraltar. This hacked andweather-worn spine left by the glaciers forms one wing of a greatinverted V, with Gibraltar as its apex. On the other side of it is adrop of several thousand feet to Nisqually Glacier. ] The geological story may be told in a few untechnical words. As thosefolds in the earth's crust which parallel the coast were slowly formedby the lateral pressure of sea upon land, fractures often occurred inthe general incline thus {p. 082} created. Through the fissures thatresulted the subterranean fires thrust molten rock. In many cases, theexpulsion was of sufficient amount and duration to form clearlydefined volcanic craters. The most active craters built up, bycontinued eruptions of lava and ashes, a great series of cones nowseen on both sides of the Cordillera, that huge mountain system whichborders the Pacific from Behring sea to the Straits of Magellan. Tacoma-Rainier is one of the more important units in this army ofvolcanic giants. [Illustration: Mazamas rounding Gibraltar--a reminiscence of theascent by the Portland club in 1905. The precipice rises more than1000 feet above the trail which offers a precarious footing at thehead of a steep slope of loose talus. ] Unlike some of its companions, however, it owes its bulk less to lavaflows than to the explosive eruptions which threw forth bombs andscoriae. It is a mass of agglomerates, with only occasional strata ofsolid volcanic rock. This becomes evident to one who inspects theexposed sides of any of the canyons, or of the great cliffs, GibraltarRock, Little Tahoma or Russell Peak. It is made clear in such picturesas are on this page and the next. This looseness of structure accounts for the rapidity with which theglaciers are cutting into the peak, and carrying it away. Most of themcarry an extraordinary amount of debris, to be deposited in lateral orterminal moraines, or dropped in streams which they feed. They arerivers of rock as well as of ice. [Illustration: Under the walls of Gibraltar. ] {p. 083} That the glaciers of this and every other mountain in thenorthern hemisphere are receding, and that they are now mere pygmiescompared with their former selves, is well known. What theirdestructive power must have been when their volume was many timesgreater than now may be judged from the moraines along their formerchannels. Some of these ridges are hundreds of feet in height. As yougo to the Mountain from Tacoma, either by the Tacoma Eastern railwayor the Nisqually canyon road, you find them everywhere above theprairies. They are largest on the north side of the Mountain, becausethere the largest glaciers have been busy. Many of them, on all sides, are covered with forests that must be centuries old. Even now, diminished as they are, the glaciers are fast transportingthe Mountain toward the sea. Wherever a glacier skirts a cliff, it iscutting into its side, as it cuts into its own bed below. From theoverhanging rocks, too, debris falls as a result of "weathering. " Thedaily ebb and flow of frost and heat help greatly to tear down thecliffs. Thus marginal moraines built of the debris begin to form, onthe ice, far up the side of the peak. As the glacier advances, drivenby its weight and the resistless mass of snow above, it is oftenjoined by another glacier, bringing its own marginal moraines. Wherethe two meet, a medial moraine results. (See illustrations, pp. 68 and77. ) Some medial moraines are many feet high. Trees are found growingon them. In Switzerland houses are built upon them. Often the debriswhich they transport, as the ice carries them forward, includes rocksas big as a ship. [Illustration: One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir. ] [Illustration {p. 084}: A perilous position on the edge of a greatcrevasse. Cowlitz Glacier, near end of Cathedral Rocks. ] A glacier's flow varies from a hundred to a thousand feet or more ayear, depending upon {p. 085} its volume, its width, and the slope ofits bed. As the decades pass, its level is greatly lowered by themelting of the ice. More and more, earth and rocks accumulate upon thesurface, as it travels onward, and are scattered over it by the rainsand melting snow. At last, in its old age, when far down its canyon, the glacier is completely hidden, save where crevasses reveal the ice. Only at its snout, where it breaks off, as a rule, in a high wall ofice, do we realize how huge a volume and weight it must have, farabove toward its sources, or why so many of the crevasses on the upperice fields seem almost bottomless. [Illustration: Climbing the "Chute, " west side of Gibraltar. Here theguides cut steps in the ice. ] These hints of the almost inconceivable mass of a glacier, with itsmillions of millions of tons, suggest how much of the Mountain hasalready been whittled and planed away. But here we may do better thanspeculate. The original surface of the peak is clearly indicated bythe tops of the great rocks which have survived the glacialsculpturing. These rise from one to two thousand feet above theglaciers, which are themselves several thousand feet in depth. Thebest known of them is the point formed by Gibraltar and the ridgesthat stretch downward from it, Cowlitz Cleaver and Cathedral Rocks, making a great inverted V. Eastward of this, another V with its apextoward the summit, is called Little Tahoma; and beyond, still another, Steamboat Prow, forming the tip of "The Wedge. " Spines of rock like these are found on all sides of the peak. Theyhelp us to estimate its greater circumference and bulk, before theglaciers had chiseled so deep. [Illustration: Looking from top of Gibraltar to the Summit. Elevationof camera, 12, 300 feet. In distance is seen the rim of the crater. Theroute to this is a steady climb, with 2, 000 feet of ascent in one mileof distance. Many detours have to be made to avoid crevasses. Note thebig crevasse stretching away on right--a "Bergschrund, " as the Swisscall a break where one side falls below the other. The stratificationon its side shows in each layer a year's snow, packed into ice. ] {p. 086} But they do even more. Wherever lava flows occurred in thebuilding of the Mountain, strata formed; and such stratification isclearly seen at intervals on the sides of the great rocks justmentioned. Its incline, of course, is that of the former surface. Thestrata point upward--not toward the summit which we see, but far aboveit. For this reason the geologists who have examined the arêtes mostclosely are agreed that the peak has lost nearly two thousand feet ofits height. It blew its own head off! Such explosive eruptions are among the worst vices of volcanoes. Everyvisitor to Naples remembers how plainly the landscape north ofVesuvius tells of a prehistoric decapitation, which left only a low, broad platform, on the south rim of which the little Vesuvius thatmany of us have climbed was formed by later eruptions, while a part ofthe north rim is well defined in "Monte Somma. " Similarly, here athome, Mt. Adams and Mt. Baker are truncated cones, while, on the otherhand, St. Helens and Hood are still symmetrical. Like Vesuvius, too, Rainier-Tacoma has built upon the plateau leftwhen it lost its head. Peak Success, overlooking Indian Henry's, andLiberty Cap, the northern elevation, seen from Seattle and Tacoma, arenearly three miles apart on the west side of the broad summit. Theseare parts of the rim of the old crater. East of the line uniting them, and about two miles from each, the volcano built up an elevation nowknown as Crater Peak, comprising two small adjacent craters. Theseburnt-out craters are now filled with snow, and where the rims touch, a big snow-hill rises--the strange creature of eddying winds thatsweep up through the great flume cut by volcanic explosion andglacial action in the west side of the peak. (See pp. 14, 27, and 52. ) [Illustration {p. 087}: View South from Cowlitz Glacier: elevation, 8, 000 feet. Seven miles away are the huge eastern peaks of theTatoosh. The Cascades beyond break in Cispus Pass, and rise, on theleft, to the glacier summits called Goat Peaks. The truncated cone ofMt. Adams, more than forty miles away, crowns the sky-line. ] {p. 088}[Illustration: These views show the larger of the two comparativelymodern and small craters on the broad platform left by the explosionwhich decapitated the Peak. Prof. Flett measured this crater, andfound it 1, 600 feet from north to south, and 1, 450 feet from east towest. The other, much smaller, adjoins it so closely that their rimstouch. Together they form an eminence of 1, 000 feet (Crater Peak), ata distance of about two miles from North Peak (Liberty Cap) and SouthPeak (Peak Success). At the junction of their rims is the great snowhill (on right of view) called "Columbia's Crest. " This is the actualsummit. The volcano having long been inactive, the craters are filledwith snow, but the residual heat causes steam and gases to escape inplaces along their rims. ] [Illustration {p. 089}] This mound of snow is the present actual top. Believing it the highestpoint in the United States south of Alaska, a party of climbers, in1894, named it "Columbia's Crest. " This was long thought to be theMountain's rightful distinction, for different computations by expertsgave various elevations ranging as high as 14, 529 feet, with noneprior to 1902 giving less than 14, 444 feet. Even upon a government mappublished as late as 1907 the height is stated as 14, 526 feet. In viewof this variety of expert opinion, the flattering name, notunnaturally, has stuck, in spite of the fact that the governmentgeographers have now adopted, for the Dictionary of Altitudes, theheight found by the United States Geological Survey in 1902, 14, 363feet. That decision leaves the honor of being the loftiest peakbetween Alaska and Mexico to Mt. Whitney in the California Sierra(14, 502 feet). [Illustration: Steam Caves in one of the craters. The residual heat ofthe extinct volcano causes steam and gases to escape from vents in therims of the two small craters. Alpinists often spend a night in thecaves thus formed in the snow. ] {p. 089}[Illustration: North Peak, named "Liberty Cap" because of itsresemblance to the Bonnet Rouge of the French Revolutionists. Elevation, about 14, 000 feet. View taken from the side of Crater Peak. Distance, nearly two miles. ] The definitive map of the National Park which was begun last summer bythe Geological Survey, with Mr. Francois E. Matthes in charge, willestablish the elevations of all important landmarks in the Park. Amongthese will be the Mountain itself. Whether this will add much, ifanything, to the current figure of the Dictionary is uncertain. In anycase, the result will not lessen the pride of the Northwest in itsgreat peak. A few feet of height signify nothing. No Californiamountain masked behind the Sierra can vie in majesty with this lonelypile that rises in stately grandeur from the shores of Puget Sound. [Illustration {p. 090}: Goat Peaks, glacier summits in the Cascades, southeast of the Mountain. Elevation, about 8, 000 feet, A branch ofthe Cowlitz is seen flowing down from the glaciers above. ] [Illustration {p. 091}: Copyright 1907, By W. P. Romans. Spray Park, from Fay Peak, showing the beautiful region between the Carbon andNorth Mowich Glaciers. ] {p. 093}[Illustration: Ice-bound Lake in Cowlitz Park, with top ofLittle Tahoma in distance. ] [Illustration: Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier, with waterfall droppingfrom Cowlitz Park, over basaltic cliffs. ] The wide area which the Mountain thrusts far up into the sky is ahighly efficient condenser of moisture. Near to the Pacific as it is, its broad summit and upper slopes collect several hundred feet of snoweach year from the warm Chinooks blowing in from the west. On allsides this vast mass presses down, hardened into solid granular névé, to feed the twelve primary glaciers. Starting eastward from ParadiseValley, these principal ice-streams are: Cowlitz and Ingrahamglaciers; White or White River glacier, largest of all; Winthropglacier, named in honor of Theodore Winthrop, in whose romance oftravel, "The Canoe and the Saddle, " the ancient Indian name "Tacoma"was first printed; Carbon, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, North andSouth Tahoma, Kautz and Nisqually glaciers. The most importantsecondary glaciers, or "interglaciers, " rising within the great rockwedges which I have described, are called Interglacier, Frying-Pan, {p. 094} Stevens, Paradise and Van Trump. All of these are of the trueAlpine type; that is, they are moving rivers of ice, as distinguishedfrom "continental glaciers, " the ice caps which cover vast regions inthe Arctic and Antarctic. [Illustration: Crossing a precipitous slope on White Glacier. LittleTahoma in distance. ] In thus naming the glaciers, I have followed the time-honored localusage, giving the names applied by the earliest explorers and sinceused with little variation in the Northwest. There has been someconfusion, however, chiefly owing to a recent government map. Forinstance, in that publication, White glacier, properly so calledbecause it is the main feeder of the White river, was named Emmonsglacier, after S. F. Emmons, a geologist who was one of the first tovisit it. It is interesting to note that in his reports Mr. Emmonshimself called this the White River glacier. On the other hand, themap mentioned, after displacing the name White from the larger glacierto which it logically belongs, gave it to the ice-stream feedinganother branch of the White river, namely, the glacier always locallycalled the Winthrop, and so called by Prof. Russell in his report tothe Geological Survey in 1897. [Illustration: Copyright, 1910, By S. C. Smith. Climbing Goat Peaks, in the Cascades, with the Mountain twenty miles away. ] [Illustration {p. 095}: Looking up White Glacier (right), from a pointon its lower end, showing vast amount of morainal debris carried downby this glacier. Little Tahoma in middle distance; Gibraltar andCathedral Rocks on extreme right; "Goat Island" on left. Elevation ofcamera, about 4, 500 feet. Note the "cloud banner" which the crag hasflung to the breeze. ] {p. 096}[Illustration: The Mountain seen from the top of Cascaderange, with party starting west over the forest trails for Paradise. ] [Illustration: Great moraine built by Frying-Pan Glacier on side of"Goat Island. "] Similarly, North and South Mowich, names of the streams to which theygive birth, were miscalled Willis and Edmunds glaciers, after BaileyWillis, geologist, and George F. Edmunds, late United States senator, who visited the Mountain many years ago. The Mowich rivers were sonamed by the Indians from the fact that, in the great rocks on thenorthwest side of the peak, just below the summit, they saw the figureof the mowich, or deer. The deer of rock is there still--he may beseen in several pictures in this volume, --and so long as he keeps tohis icy pasture it will be difficult to displace his name from theglaciers and rivers below. The southern branch of the great Tahomaglacier, locally called South Tahoma glacier, this map renamed Wilsonglacier, for A. D. Wilson, Emmons's companion in exploration. Finally, the name of General Hazard Stevens, who, {p. 097} with Mr. Van Trump, made the first ascent of the peak in 1870, was misplaced, being givento the west branch of the Nisqually, whereas the general usage hasfixed the name of that pioneer upon the well-defined interglacier eastof the Paradise, and above Stevens canyon, which in its prime itcarved on the side of the Mountain. General Stevens himself writes mefrom Boston that this is the correct usage. [Illustration: Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier, below Little Tahoma. ] Such errors in an official document are the more inexcusable becausetheir author ignored local names recognized in the earlierpublications of the government and its agents. In such matters, too, the safe principle is to follow local custom where that is logical andestablished. The new map prepared by Mr. Ricksecker, and printedherewith, returns to the older and better usage. Unless good reasoncan be shown for departing from it, his careful compilation should befollowed. Willis Wall, above Carbon Glacier, appropriately recalls thework of Bailey Willis. The explorations of Emmons and Wilson may wellbe commemorated by landmarks as yet unnamed, not by displacing fitnames long current. In connection with his survey of the Park, Mr. Matthes has beenauthorized to collect local testimony as to established names withinthat area, and to invite suggestions as to appropriate names forlandmarks not yet definitely named. His report will doubtless go tothe National Geographic Board for final decision on the namesrecommended. Thus, in time, we may hope to see this awkward andconfusing tangle in mountain nomenclature straightened out. [Illustration: Sunrise above the clouds, seen from Camp Curtis, on theWedge, (altitude 9, 500 feet); White Glacier below. This camp was namedby the Mountaineers in 1909, in honor of Asahel Curtis, the Seattleclimber. ] {p. 098}[Illustration: Looking up from "Snipe Lake, " a small pond belowInterglacier, to the head of Winthrop Glacier and Liberty Cap. ] The written history of the Mountain begins with its discovery byCaptain George Vancouver. Its first appearance upon a map occurs inVancouver's well-known report, published in 1798, after his death:"Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and around the World, 1790-1795. " It was in the summer of 1792, shortly after Vancouver had entered theSound, he tells us, that he first saw "a very remarkable high roundmountain, covered with snow, apparently at the southern extremity ofthe distant snowy range. " A few days later he again mentions "theround snowy mountain, " "which, after my friend Rear-Admiral Rainier, Idistinguished by the name of Mount Rainier. " Nearly all of CaptainVancouver's friends were thus distinguished, at the cost of the Indiannames, to which doubtless he gave no thought. Sonorous "Kulshan" andunique "Whulge" were lost, in order that we might celebrate "Mr. Baker" and "Mr. Puget, " junior officers of Vancouver's expedition. [Illustration: Passing a big crevasse on Interglacier. Sour-DoughMountains on the right, with Grand Park beyond: St. Elmo Pass incenter, Snipe Lake and Glacier Basin in depression. ] [Illustration {p. 099}: View north from Mt. Ruth (part of the Wedge), withInterglacier in foreground, the Snipe Lake country below, Sour-DoughMountains on right, Grand Park in middle distance, and Mt. Baker, withthe summits of the Selkirks, far away in Canada, on the horizon. ] {p. 100}[Illustration: Camp on St. Elmo Pass, north side of the Wedge, betweenWinthrop Glacier and Interglacier. Elevation, 9, 000 feet. WinthropGlacier and the fork of White River which it feeds are seen indistance below. The man is Maj. E. S. Ingraham, a veteran explorer ofthe Mountain, after whom Ingraham Glacier is named. ] [Illustration: East face of the Mountain, from south side of theWedge, showing route to the summit over White Glacier. ] Happily, the fine Indian name "Tacoma" was not offered up a sacrificeto such obscurity. Forgotten as he is now, Peter Rainier was, in histime, something of a figure. After some ransacking of libraries, Ihave found a page that gives us a glimpse of a certain hard-foughtthough unequal combat, in the year 1778, between an American privateerand two British ships. It is of interest in connection with "MountRainier, " the name recognized by the Geographic Board at Washington in1889 as official. On the 8th of July, the 14-gun ship Ostrich, Commander Peter Rainier, on the Jamaica station, in company with the 10-gun armed brig Lowestoffe's Prize, chased a large brig. After a long run, the Ostrich brought the brig, which was the American privateer Polly, to action, and, after an engagement of three hours' duration (by which time the Lowestoffe's Prize had arrived up and {p. 101} taken part in the contest), compelled her to surrender. * * * * Captain Rainier was wounded by a musket ball through the left breast; he could not, however, be prevailed upon to go below, but remained on deck till the close of the action. He was posted, and appointed to command the 64-gun ship Burford. (_Allen: "Battles of the British Navy, "_ Vol. I. , London, 1872). [Illustration: Admiral Peter Rainier, of the British Navy, in whosehonor Captain George Vancouver, in 1792, named the great peak "Mt. Rainier. "] Before quitting with Vancouver and eighteenth-century history of theMountain, I note that our peak enjoyed a further honor. CaptainVancouver records an interesting event that took place on theanniversary of King George's birth;--"on which auspicious day, " hesays, "I had long since designed to take formal possession of all thecountries we had lately been employed in exploring, in the name of, and for, His Britannic Majesty, his heirs and successors. " And he did! [Illustration: First picture of the Mountain, from Vancouver's "Voyageof Discovery, " London, 1798. ] After Vancouver's brief mention, and the caricature of our peakprinted in his work, literature is practically silent about theMountain for more than sixty years. Those years witnessed the failureof England's memorable struggle to make good Vancouver's "annexation. "Oregon was at last a state. Out of its original area WashingtonTerritory had just been carved. In that year of 1853 {p. 102} cameTheodore Winthrop, of the old New England family, who was destined toa lasting and pathetic fame as an author of delightful books and avictim of the first battle of the Civil War. Sailing into what is nowthe harbor of the city of Tacoma, he there beheld the peak. We feelhis enthusiasm as he tells of the appeal it made to him. [Illustration: Climbers on St. Elmo Pass, seen from the upper side. ] [Illustration: St. Elmo Pass from north side. The name was given byMaj. Ingraham in 1886 because of a remarkable exhibition of St. Elmo'sfire seen here during a great storm. A cabin is needed at thisimportant crossing. ] [Illustration: Avalanche Camp (11, 000 feet), on the high, ragged chinebetween Carbon and Winthrop. Carbon Glacier, seen below, has cutthrough a great range, leaving Mother Mountains on the left and theSluiskins, right. ] We had rounded a point, and opened Puyallop Bay, a breadth of sheltered calmness, when I was suddenly aware of a vast white shadow in the water. What cloud, piled massive on the horizon, could cast an image so sharp in outline, so full of vigorous detail of surface? No cloud, but a cloud compeller. It was a giant mountain dome of snow, swelling and seeming to fill the aerial spheres, as its image displaced the blue deeps of tranquil water. Only its splendid snows were visible, high in the unearthly regions of clear blue noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty, without any visible consort, though far to the north and the south its brethren and sisters dominated their realms. Of all the peaks from California to {p. 103} Frazer's River, this one before me was royalest. Mount Regnier[5] Christians have dubbed it, in stupid nomenclature perpetuating the name of somebody or nobody. More melodiously the Siwashes call it Tacoma, --a generic term also applied to all snow peaks. Tacoma, under its ermine, is a crushed volcanic dome, or an ancient volcano fallen in, and perhaps not yet wholly lifeless. The domes of snow are stateliest. There may be more of feminine beauty in the cones, and more of masculine force and hardihood in the rough pyramids, but the great domes are calmer and more divine. [Footnote 5: Winthrop's error was a common one at that time and has remained current till to-day. The admiral's grandfather, the Huguenot exile, was "Regnier, " but his descendants anglicized the patronymic into "Rainier. "] No foot of man had ever trampled those pure snows. It was a virginal mountain, distant from human inquisitiveness as a marble goddess is from human loves. Yet there was nothing unsympathetic in its isolation, or despotic in its distant majesty. Only the thought of eternal peace arose from this heaven-upbearing monument like incense, and, overflowing, filled the world with deep and holy calm. Our lives demand visual images that can be symbols to us of the grandeur or the sweetness of repose. The noble works of nature, and mountains most of all, "have power to make Our noisy years seem moments in the being Of the eternal silence. " And, studying the light and the majesty of Tacoma, there passed from it and entered into my being a thought and image of solemn beauty, which I could thenceforth evoke whenever in the world I must {p. 104} have peace or die. For such emotion years of pilgrimage were worthily spent. ("_The Canoe and the Saddle_, " published posthumously in 1862). [Illustration: Russell Peak, from Avalanche Camp, 2, 500 feet below. Named for Prof. Israel C. Russell, geologist. ] [Illustration: Looking up Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp. ] [Illustration: Looking across Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp toSteamboat Prow (the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass. Elevation of camera, 11, 000 feet. ] In the controversy over the Mountain's name, some persons have beenmisled into imaging Winthrop a fabricator of pseudo-Indiannomenclature. But his work bears scrutiny. He wrote before there wasany dispute as to the name, or any rivalry between towns to confoundpartisanship with scholarship. He was in the Territory while CaptainGeorge B. McClellan, was surveying the Cascades to find a pass for arailroad. He was in close touch with McClellan's party, and doubtlessknew well its able ethnologist, George Gibbs, the Harvard man whoseworks on the Indian languages of the Northwest are the foundation ofall later books in that field. Although he first learned it from theIndians, in all likelihood he discussed the name "Tacoma" with Gibbs, who was already collecting material for his writings, published in the{p. 107} report of the Survey and in the "Contributions" of theSmithsonian Institution. Among these are the vocabularies of a scoreof Indian dialects, which must be mentioned here because they areconclusive as to the form, meaning and application of the name. [Illustration {p. 105}: View south from the Sluiskin Mountains acrossMoraine Park to the head of Carbon Glacier. Elevation of camera, 6, 500feet. Moraine Park, below, was until recently the bed of aninterglacier. On the extreme left, Avalanche Camp and Russell Peak areseen between Carbon and Winthrop Glaciers. ] [Illustration {p. 106}: Portion of Spray Park, with north-side view ofthe Mountain, showing Observation Rock and timber line. Elevation ofcamera, 7, 000 feet. ] [Illustration: Climbing the séracs of Winthrop Glacier. ] In his vocabulary of the Winatsha (Wenatchee) language, Gibbs entered:"T'koma, snow peak. " In that of the Niswalli (Nisqually), he noted:"Takob, the name of Mt. Rainier. " "T'kope, " Chinook for white, isevidently closely allied. Gibbs himself tells us that the Northwesterndialects treated b and m as convertible. "Takob" is equivalent to"Takom" or "T'koma. " Far, then, from coining the word, Winthrop didnot even change its Indian form, as some have supposed, by modifyingthe mouth-filling "Tahoma" of the Yakimas into the simpler, strongerand more musical "Tacoma. " This is as pure Indian as the other, andWinthrop's popularization of the word was a public service, asperpetuating one of the most significant of our Indian place-names. I have said thus much, not to revive a musty and, to me, very amusingquarrel, but because correspondents in different parts of the countryhave asked regarding facts that are naturally part of the history ofthe Mountain. Some would even have me stir the embers of that ancientcontroversy. For instance, here is the _Bulletin of the GeographicalSociety of Philadelphia_ taking me to task: This book would also do a great service if it would help popularize the name "Tacoma" in spite of the Mountain's official designation "Rainier"--a name to which it has no right when its old Indian name is at once so beautiful and appropriate. It is to be regretted that a more vigorous protest has not been made against the modern name, and also against such propositions as that of changing "Narada Falls" to "Cushman Falls. " [Illustration: Ice pinnacles on the Carbon. ] The mistaken attempt to displace the name of Narada Falls wasstill-born from the start, and needed no help to kill it. There aremany unnamed landmarks {p. 108} in the National Park ready tocommemorate Mr. Cushman's ambition to make the Mountain a realpossession of all the people. As to the other matter--the name of thepeak itself, --that may safely be left to the American sense of humor. But what I have said is due in justice to Winthrop, one of the finestfigures in our literary history. His work in making the peak knowndemands that his name, given by local gratitude to one of itsimportant glaciers, shall not be removed. [Illustration: Among the ice bridges of the Carbon. ] A word about the industrial value of the Mountain may not be withoutinterest in this day of electricity. Within a radius of sixty miles ofthe head of Puget Sound, more water descends from high levels to thesea than in any other similar area in the United States. A great partof this is collected on the largest peak. Hydraulic engineers haveestimated, on investigation, an average annual precipitation, for thesummit and upper slopes, of at least 180 inches, or four times therainfall in Tacoma or Seattle. The melting snows feed the White, Puyallup and Nisqually rivers, large streams flowing into the Sound, and the Cowlitz, an important tributary of the Columbia. The minimumflow of these streams is computed at more than 1200 second feet, whiletheir average flow is nearly twice that total. The utilization of this large water supply on the steep mountainslopes began in 1904 with the erection of the Electron plant of thePuget Sound Power Company. For this the water is diverted from thePuyallup river ten miles from the end of its glacier, and 1750 feetabove sea level, and carried ten miles more in an open flume to areservoir, from which four steel penstocks, each four feet indiameter, drop it to the power house 900 feet below. The plantgenerates 28, 000 horse power, which is conveyed to Tacoma, twenty-fivemiles distant, at a pressure of 60, 000 volts, and there is distributedfor the operation of street railways, lights and factories in thatcity and Seattle. [Illustration {p. 109}: Mountain Climbers in Crevasse on CarbonGlacier. ] A more important development is in progress on the larger White rivernear Buckley, where the Pacific Coast Power Company is diverting thewater by a dam and eight-mile canal to Lake Tapps, elevation 540 feetabove tide. From this {p. 111} great reservoir it will be takenthrough a tunnel and pipe line to the generating plant at Dieringer, elevation 65 feet. The 100, 000 horse power ultimately to be producedhere will be carried fifteen miles to Tacoma, for sale tomanufacturers in the Puget Sound cities. [Illustration] [Illustration: Building Tacoma's Electric Power Plant on the NisquallyCanyon. Upper view shows site of retention dam, above tunnel; middleview, end of tunnel, where pipeline crosses the canyon on a bridge;lower view, site of the generating plant (see p. 21). ] [Illustration] Both these plants are enterprises of Stone & Webster, of Boston. Acompetitive plant is now nearing completion by the city of Tacoma, utilizing the third of the rivers emptying into the Sound. TheNisqually is dammed above its famous canyon, at an elevation of 970feet, where its minimum flow is 300 second feet. The water will becarried through a 10, 000-foot tunnel and over a bridge to a reservoirat La Grande, from which the penstocks will carry it down the side ofthe canyon {p. 112} to the 40, 000 horse-power generating plant builton a narrow shelf a few feet above the river. The city expects to beable to produce power for its own use, with a considerable margin forsale, at a cost at least as low as can be attained anywhere in theUnited States. [Illustration: Hydro-electric plant at Electron, on the PuyallupRiver, producing 28, 000 h. P. ] The rocks of which the Mountain is composed are mainly andesites ofdifferent classes and basalt. But the peak rests upon a platform ofgranite, into which the glaciers have cut in their progress. Fineexposures of the older and harder rock are seen on the Nisqually, justbelow the present end of its glacier, as well as on the Carbon and inMoraine Park. This accounts for the fact that the river beds are fullof granite bowlders, which are grinding the softer volcanic shingleinto soil. Thus the glaciers are not only fast deforming the peak. They are "sowing the seeds of continents to be. " [Illustration: Cutting canal to divert White River into Lake Tapps. ] {p. 113}[Illustration: Mystic Lake in Moraine Park. ] IV. THE CLIMBERS. Climb the mountains, and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. --_John Muir. _ Upwards--towards the peaks, towards the stars, and towards the great silence!--_Ibsen. _ Given good muscles and wind, the other requisites for an ascent of theMountain are a competent guide and grit. It offers few problems likethose confronting the climber of the older and more crag-like Alps. There are no perpendicular cliffs to scale, no abysses to swing acrosson a rope. If you can stand the punishment of a long up-hill pull, over loose volcanic talus and the rough ice, you may safely join aparty for Gibraltar Rock and the summit. But the ascent should not beattempted without first spending some time in "try-outs" on lowerelevations, both to prepare one's muscles for climbing and descendingsteep slopes, and to accustom one's lungs to the rarer atmosphere ofhigh altitudes. Such preparation will save much discomfort, including, perhaps, a visit of "mountain sickness. " [Illustration: Glacier Table on Winthrop Glacier. This phenomenon isdue to the melting of the glacier, save where sheltered by the rock. Under the sun's rays, these "tables" incline more and more to thesouth, until they slide off their pedestals. ] Another warning must be given to the general tourist. Do not try toclimb the Mountain without guides. The seasoned alpinist, of course, will trust to previous experience on other peaks, and may find hisclimb here comparatively safe and easy. But the fate of {p. 115} T. Y. Callaghan and Joseph W. Stevens, of Trenton, N. J. , who perished onthe glaciers in August, 1909, should serve as a warning againstover-confidence. Unless one has intimate acquaintance with the ways ofthe great ice peaks, he should never attack such a wilderness ofcrevasses and shifting snow-slopes save in company of those who knowits fickle trails. [Illustration {p. 114}: Carbon River below its Gorge, and MotherMountains. This range was so named because of a rude resemblance tothe up-turned face of a woman seen here in the sky-line, while theview of snowy Liberty Cap beyond and the milky whiteness of the streamgave rise to the pleasing fiction that the Indian name of the peakmeant "nourishing breast. " "Tacoma" meant simply the Snow Mountain. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1910, By C. E. Cutter. Oldest and youngestclimbers, Gen. Hazard Stevens and Jesse McRae. General Stevens, withP. B. Van Trump, in 1870, made the first ascent. In 1905, he came westfrom Boston and joined the Mazamas in their climb. The picture showshim before his tent in Paradise Park. He was then 63 years old. ] Under the experienced guides, many climbers reach Crater Peak eachsummer, and no accidents of a serious nature have occurred. Thesuccessful climbers numbered one hundred and fifty-nine in 1910. Manymore go only as far as Gibraltar, or even to McClure Rock (Elevation, 7, 385 feet), and are well rewarded by the magnificent views whichthese points command of the south-side glaciers and arêtes, with theranges lying below. The name "McClure Rock" is a memorial of thesaddest tragedy of the Mountain. Over the slope below this landmarkProf. Edgar McClure of the University of Oregon fell to his death onthe night of July 27, 1897. He had spent the day in severe scientificlabor on the summit, and was hurrying down in the moonlight, muchwearied, to Reese's Camp for the night. Going ahead of his companions, to find a safe path for them, he called back that the ice was toosteep. Then there was silence. Either he slipped in trying tore-ascend the slope, or he fainted from exhaustion. His body was foundon the rocks below by his comrades of the Mazama Club. [Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. P. B. Van Trump, onhis old campground, above Sluiskin Falls, where he and Gen. Stevenscamped in 1870. ] If one is going the popular route and is equal to so long and unbrokena climb, he may start with his guide from Reese's before dawn, and beon Columbia's Crest by 11 o'clock. But climbers frequently go upCowlitz Cleaver in the evening, and spend the night at Camp Muir (seepp. 60 and 80). This ledge below Gibraltar gets its name from JohnMuir, the famous mountaineer, who, on his ascent in 1888, suggested itas a camping place because the presence of pumice indicated the{p. 116} absence of severe winds. It offers none of the conveniencesof a camp save a wind-break, and even in that respect no one has eversuffered for want of fresh air. It is highly desirable that a cabin beerected here for the convenience of climbers. Such shelters as theAlpine clubs have built on the high shoulders of many peaks inSwitzerland are much needed, not only at Muir, but also on the Wedge, as well as inside one of the craters, where, doubtless a way might befound to utilize the residuary heat of the volcano for the comfort ofthe climbers. [Illustration: Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond. One ofthe most beautiful alpine vales in the great Spray Park region. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By J. Edward B. Greene. John Muir, President of the Sierra Club and foremost of Americanmountaineers "His daily teachers had been woods and rills, The silence that is in the starry sky, The sleep that is among the lonely hills. "] Going to the summit by this route, the important thing is to passGibraltar early, before the sun starts the daily shower of icicles androcks from the cliff over the narrow trail (see p. 83). This is themost dangerous point, but no lives have been lost here. Everywhere, ofcourse, caution is needed, and strict obedience to the {p. 117} guide. Once up the steep flume caused by the melting of the ice where itborders the rock (p. 85), the climber threads his way among thecrevasses and snow-mounds for nearly two miles, until the crater isreached (pp. 86, 88, 89). [Illustration: Coasting in Moraine Park in the August sunshine. ] The east-side route (p. 100) involves less danger, perhaps, but it isa longer climb, with no resting places or wind-breaks. It has beenused less, because it is farther from Paradise Valley. Starting from anight's encampment on the Wedge (p. 97), parties descend to Whiteglacier, and, over its steep incline of dazzling ice, gain the summitin eight or nine hours. [Illustration: Sunset on Crater Lake, north of Spray Park, with theMountain in distance. ] The first attempt to scale the Mountain was made in 1857 by Lieutenant(later General) A. V. Kautz. There is no foundation for the claimsometimes heard that Dr. W. F. Tolmie, Hudson's Bay Company agent atFort Nisqually, who made a botanizing trip to the lower slopes in1833, attempted the peak. Lieutenant Kautz, with two companions fromfort Steilacoom, climbed the arête between the glacier now named afterhim and the Nisqually glacier, but fearing a night on the summit, andknowing nothing of the steam caves in the crater, he turned back whenprobably at the crest of the south peak. Writing in the _OverlandMonthly_ for May, 1875, he says that, "although there were pointshigher yet, the {p. 120} Mountain spread out comparatively flat, "having the form of "a ridge perhaps two miles in length, with an angleabout half-way, and depressions between the angle and each end of theridge, which gave the summit the appearance of three small peaks. " [Illustration {p. 118}: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Amphitheatreof Carbon Glacier, the most noteworthy example of glacial sculptureupon the Mountain. It is nearly three miles wide. No other glacier hascut so deeply into the side of the peak. The Carbon was once twoglaciers, separated by a ridge, of which a remnant is still seen inthe huge spine of rock extending down from Liberty Cap. ] [Illustration {p. 119}: Photo By Lea Bronson. Copyright, 1909, By P. V. Caesar. Avalanche falling on Willis Wall, at head of Carbon Glacieramphitheatre. The cliff, up to the snow cap on the summit, is morethan 4, 000 feet high and nearly perpendicular. Avalanches fall everyday, but this picture of a big one in action is probably unique. Willis Wall was named for Bailey Willis, the geologist. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By A. H. Waite. Birth of CarbonRiver, with part of Willis Wall visible in distance. The great heightof this ice front appears on noting the man near the river. ] It was not until August 17, 1870, thirteen years after Kautz's partialvictory, that the Mountain was really conquered. This was by P. B. VanTrump of Yelm and Hazard Stevens, son of the first governor ofWashington, who had distinguished himself in the Civil War, and wasthen living at Olympia as a Federal revenue officer. Each of thesepioneers on the summit has published an interesting account of howthey got there, General Stevens in the _Atlantic Monthly_ forNovember, 1876, and Mr. Van Trump in the second volume of _Mazama_. InStevens's article, "The Ascent of Takhoma, " his acquaintance with theIndians of the early territorial period, gives weight to this note: Tak-ho-ma or Ta-ho-ma among the Yakimas, Klickitats, Puyallups, Nisquallys and allied tribes is the generic term for mountain, used precisely as we use the word "Mount, " as Takhoma Wynatchie, or Mount Wynatchie. But they all designate Rainier simply as Takhoma, or The Mountain, just as the mountain men used to call it "Old He. " Sluiskin, an Indian celebrity whom they employed as a guide, led theyoung men the longest and hardest way, taking them over the Tatooshmountains instead of directly up the Nisqually and Paradise canyons. From the summit of that range, they at last looked across the Paradisevalley, and beheld the great peak "directly in front, filling up thewhole view with an indescribable aspect of magnitude {p. 121} andgrandeur. " Below them lay "long green ridges projected from the snowbelt, with deep valleys between, each at its upper end forming the bedof a glacier. " [Illustration: The Mountaineers building trail on the lateral moraineof Carbon Glacier. Without such trails, the "tenderfoot" would farebadly. ] Descending from the Tatoosh, the explorers camped near a waterfallwhich they named Sluiskin Falls, in honor of their guide. Sluiskin nowendeavored, in a long oration, to dissuade them from their folly. Avalanches and winds, he said, would sweep them from the peak, andeven if they should reach the summit, the awful being dwelling therewould surely punish their sacrilege. Finding his oratory vain, hechanted a dismal dirge till late in the night, and next morning tooksolemn leave of them. [Illustration: The Mountaineers lunching in a crevasse on WhiteGlacier, 13, 000 feet above the sea, on their ascent in 1909. EvenLittle Tahoma, on the left, is far below. ] Stevens describes their ascent by the now familiar path, over CowlitzCleaver and past Gibraltar. From the top of that "vast, square rockembedded in the side of the Mountain, " they turned west over the uppersnow-fields, and thus first reached the southern peak, which theynamed "Peak Success, " to commemorate their victory. This is a long, exceedingly sharp, narrow ridge, springing out from the main dome for a mile into mid-air. On the right, the snow descended in a steep, unbroken sheet into the tremendous {p. 124} basin which lies between the southern and the northern peaks, and which is enclosed by them as by two mighty arms. [6] Sheltered behind a pinnacle of ice, we fastened our flags upon the Alpine staffs, and then, standing erect in the furious blast, waved them in triumph with three cheers. [Footnote 6: See illustration, page 14. ] [Illustration {p. 122}: Looking southeast from Mt. Rose, above EuniceLake, with Mother Mountains on left, and Spray Park in distance onright of center. Shows outposts of alpine firs and hemlocks on thetimber line. ] [Illustration {p. 123}: Looking south from Mt. Rose, across Crater Laketo North Mowich Glacier and Mowich Ridge. This was taken from near thesame place as the preceding view, and eight miles from the Mountain. Eagle Cliff, a celebrated view point, is on the right, overlookingMowich canyon. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Looking up MowichValley. One of the densely wooded regions in the National Park thatneed trails as a means of protection against fires. ] It was now five o'clock. They had spent eleven hours in the ascent, and knowing it would be impossible to descend before nightfall, theysaw nothing to do but burrow in the loose rock and spend the night asbest they could. The middle peak, however, was evidently higher, andthey determined first to visit it. Climbing the long ridge and overthe rim of the crater, they found jets of steam and smoke issuing fromvents on the north side. Never was a discovery more welcome! Hastening forward, we both exclaimed, as we warmed our benumbed extremities over one of Pluto's fires, that here we would pass the night, secure against freezing to death, at least.... A deep cavern extended under the ice. Forty feet within its mouth we built a wall of stones around a jet of steam. Inclosed within this shelter, we ate our lunch and warmed ourselves at our natural register. The heat at the orifice was too great to bear for more than an instant. The steam wet us, the smell of sulphur was nauseating, and the cold was so severe that our clothes froze stiff when turned away from the heated jet. We passed a miserable night, freezing on one side and in a hot steam-sulphur bath on the other. In October of the same year, S. F. Emmons and A. D. Wilson, of theGeological Survey, reached the snow-line by way of the Cowlitz valleyand glacier, and ascended the peak over the same route which Stevensand Van Trump had discovered and which has since been the popular pathto Crater Peak. The Kautz route, by the cleaver between Kautz andNisqually glaciers, has recently been found {p. 125} practicable, though extremely difficult. In 1891 and again the next summer, Mr. VanTrump made an ascent along the ridge dividing the Tahoma glaciers. In1905, Raglan Glascock and Ernest Dudley, members of the Sierra Clubparty visiting the Mountain, climbed the Kautz glacier, and findingtheir way barred by ice cascades, reached the summit by a thrillingrock climb over the cliff above the South Tahoma glacier. Thisprecipice (see p. 37) they found to be a series of rock terraces, often testing the strength and nerve of the climbers. In _SunsetMagazine_ for November, 1895, Mr. Glascock has told the story of theirstruggle and reward. [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Spray Falls, asplendid scenic feature of the north side, where it drops more thanfive hundred feet from the Spray Park table-land into the canyon ofNorth Mowich Glacier. ] Here the basalt terminated, and a red porous formation began, which crumbled in the hand. This part of the cliff lay a little out from the perpendicular, and there was apparently no way of surmounting it. I looked at my watch. It was 4:15. In a flash the whole situation came to me. It would be impossible to return and cross the crevasses before dark. We could not stay where we were. Already the icy wind cut to the bone. "We must make it. There is no going back, " I said to Dudley. I gave him the ice ax, and started to the ascent of the remaining cliff. I climbed six feet, and was helpless. I could not get back, nor go forward. One of my feet swung loose, and I felt my hands slipping. Then I noticed above me, about six or eight inches to my right a sharp, projecting rock. It was here or never. I gave a swing, and letting go my feet entirely, I reached the rock. It held, and I was swinging by my hands over a two-hundred-foot void. I literally glued myself to the face of the rock, searching frantically for knob or crevasse with my feet. By sheer luck, my toe found a small projection, and from here I gradually worked myself up until I came to a broken cleft in the cliff where it was possible to brace myself and lower the rope to Dudley. This last ascent had only been fifteen feet, and, in reality, had taken but three or four minutes, but to me it seemed hours. At 7:45, we reached the summit of the south peak. Here we stopped to look down on Camp Sierra. Long shadows spread their mantle across the glaciers, and in the east lay the phantom {p. 126} mountain--the shadow of Rainier. A flash of light attracted our attention. We saw that our companions had been watching our progress. [Illustration: A rescue from a crevasse. ] The White glacier route on the east side was first used in 1885 by aparty from Snohomish. The same glacier was traversed by theWillis-Russell party in 1896. The first woman to make the ascent wasMiss Fay Fuller, of Tacoma, in 1890, over the Gibraltar route. The north and northwest sides, as I have said, are as yet unconquered. Some members of the Mountaineers have a theory that the summit can bereached from Avalanche Camp by climbing along the face of RussellPeak, and so around to the upper snowfield of Winthrop glacier. Theyhave seen mountain goats making the trip, and propose to try itthemselves. Whether they succeed or not, this trail will never bepopular, owing to daily landslides in the loose rock of the cliff. [Illustration: Returning from the summit. The Mountaineers ending amemorable outing in 1909. Winthrop Glacier in foreground, SluiskinMountains in distance. ] In 1897 and 1905, the Mazama Club of Portland sent parties to theMountain, each making the ascent over the Gibraltar route. The SierraClub of California was also represented in the latter year by adelegation of climbers who took the same path to the summit. In 1909, the Mountaineers Club of Seattle spent several weeks on the Mountain, entering the National Park by the Carbon trail, camping in MorainePark on the north side, exploring Spray Park and the Carbon glacier, crossing Winthrop glacier to the Wedge, and thence climbing Whiteglacier to the summit. Many members of the Appalachian Club andAmerican Alpine Clubs and of European organizations of similar purposehave climbed to Crater Peak, either in company with the Western clubsnamed, or in smaller parties. Noteworthy accounts of these ascentshave been printed in the publications of the several clubs, as well asin magazines of wider circulation, and have done much to make theMountain known to the public. The principal articles are cited in abibliographical note at the end of this volume. [Illustration {p. 128}: Looking down from Ptarmigan Ridge into theCanyon of the North Mowich Glacier and up to the cloud-wreathed Peak. ] {p. 129}[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. View looking westacross Moraine Park and Carbon Glacier to Mother Mountains. ] V. THE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES. By PROF. J. B. FLETT. [7] [Footnote 7: Prof. Flett knows the Mountain well. He has spent many summers in its "parks, " has climbed to its summit four times, has visited all its glaciers, and has made a remarkable collection of its flowers. In addition to the chapter on the botany of the National Park, this book is indebted to him for several of its most valuable illustrations. ] Of all the fire-mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mount Rainier is the noblest in form. Its massive white dome rises out of its forests, like a world by itself. Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly two miles wide, so closely planted and luxuriant that it seems as if Nature, glad to make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were economizing the precious ground, and trying to see how many of her darlings she can get together in one mountain wreath--daisies, anemones, columbines, erythroniums, larkspurs, etc. , among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the bright corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest subalpine garden I ever found, a perfect floral elysium. --_John Muir: "Our National Parks. "_ No one can visit the Mountain without being impressed by its wildflowers. These are the more noticeable because of their high color--acommon characteristic of flowers in alpine regions. As we visit theupland meadows at a season when the spring flowers of the lowlandshave gone to seed, we find there another spring season with flowers instill greater number and more varied in color. [Illustration: Senecio. ] The base of the Mountain up to an altitude of about 4, 000 feet iscovered by a somber forest of evergreens composed of the white andblack pines; Douglas, Lovely and Noble firs; the white cedar; spruce, and hemlock. There are found also several deciduous trees--large-leafedmaple, {p. 130} white alder, cottonwood, quaking aspen, vine andsmooth-leafed maples, and several species of willows. Thus the silvaof the lower slopes is highly varied. The forest is often interruptedby the glacial canyons, and, at intervals, by fire-swept areas. [Illustration: A 14-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake. ] Among these foothills and valleys, lies the region of the virginforest. This area is characterized by huge firs and cedars, all tall, straight and graceful, without a limb for 75 to 100 feet. This isprobably the most valuable area of timber in the world, and it is oneof the grandest parts of the Park. A death-like silence generallypervades this cool, dark region, where few kinds of animal life find acongenial abode. Occasionally the stillness is disturbed by theDouglas squirrel, busily gnawing off the fir cones for his winter'ssupply, or by the gentle flutter of the coy wren, darting to and froamong the old, fallen logs. The higher forms of vegetable life arealso restricted to a few odd varieties. The most common of these aresuch saprophytes as _pterospora andromedea_, _allotropa virgata_, theso-called barber's pole, and the Indian pipe. This curious, waxy whiteplant is generally admired by all who see it, but it quicklydisappoints those admirers who gather it by turning black. The mosses, liverworts, and lichens take possession of the trees andcover them with a unique decoration. The licorice fern often gains afoothold on the trees thus decorated, and grows luxuriantly, embeddedin the deep growth of these plants. It is nearly impossible to get through this region without following aroad or trail. For the safety of its priceless forest, there are fartoo few trails. In case of a forest fire it would be impossible toreach some areas in time to combat it with any success. Many beautifulregions in the lower parts of the Park are {p. 131} whollyinaccessible. These should be opened with proper roads and trails, notonly for their own safety, but also for the benefit of visitors. [Illustration: Indian Pipe. ] The alpine meadows begin to appear at an altitude of about 5, 000 feet. The real alpine trees, with their trim, straight trunks and droopingbranches, are in strange contrast to their relatives of the loweraltitude. The principal trees of the meadow area are the alpine fir, the alpine hemlock, and the Alaska cedar. These constitute the greaterpart of the silva of Paradise Valley. There are a few trees of theLovely fir in the lower part of the valley, and a few white-barkedpines overlooking the glaciers at timber line. [Illustration: Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park, showing "MountainHeliotrope, " more properly Valerian, and other flowers growing nearthe snow line. ] [Illustration {p. 132}: Mosses and Ferns, in the forest reserve, on wayto Longmire Springs. ] {p. 133}[Illustration: A bank of White Heather. ] The trees of the park zone differ greatly on different slopes. On thenortheast and east, the white-barked pine and the alpine spruce formno small part of the tree groups. The white-barked pine branches outlike the scrub oak on the prairie. It is never seen at a low altitude. The alpine spruce bears numerous cones all over the tree, and hassharp leaves, though not so sharp as its relative, the tidelandspruce. [Illustration: Hellebore (Veratrum Viride). ] Not only is there a difference in the trees on the different slopes ofthe Mountain, but there is a marked difference in the herbaceousplants as well. _Hesperogenia Strictlandi_ is a small, yellow plant ofthe celery family. This is very abundant, both in Spray Park and alsoin the country east of the Carbon Glacier, but rare on the south side. _Gilia Nuttallii_, a large, phlox-like plant, is abundant only in theIndian Henry region. Two anemones, one buttercup, three willows andone senecio seem to be confined to the White River country. The mosscampion has been found only on Mowich. The most noticeable and abundant flower on all slopes is the avalanchelily (_erythronium montanum_). This plant comes up through severalinches of the old snow crust, and forms beautiful beds of pure whiteflowers, to the exclusion of nearly all other plants. There are oftenfrom seven to nine blossoms on a stem. This has other popular names, such as deer-tongue and adder-tongue. There is also a yellow species, growing with the other, but less abundant. It seldom has more than one{p. 134} or two flowers on a stem. The yellow alpine buttercupgenerally grows with the erythroniums. It also tries to rush theseason by coming up through the snow. The western anemone is a littlemore deliberate, but is found quite near the snow. It may be known byits lavender, or purple flowers; and later by its large plume-likeheads, which are no less admired than the flowers themselves. [Illustration: Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies. In the struggle forexistence at the timber line, flowers prosper, but trees fight forlife against storm and snow. ] The plants just mentioned are the harbingers of spring. Following themin rapid succession are many plants of various hues. The mountaindock, mountain dandelion, and potentilla seldom fail to appear later. The asters, often wrongly called daisies, are represented by severalspecies, some of which blossom early, and are at their best along withthe spring flowers. The great majority of the composite family bloomlater, and thus prolong the gorgeous array. The lupines add much tothe beauty of this meadow region, both at a low altitude, and also inthe region above timber line. Their bright purple flowers, in longracemes, with palmate leaves, are very conspicuous on the grassyslopes. Between timber line and 8, 500 feet, Lyall's lupine grows indense silk mats, with dark purple flowers--the most beautiful plant inthat zone. [Illustration: Mountain Asters. ] Four different kinds of heather are found on the Mountain. The redheather is the largest and the most abundant. It grows at a loweraltitude than the others, and is sometimes, erroneously, called Scotchheather. There are two kinds of white heather. One forms a prominentpart of the {p. 135} flora, often growing with the red. The other isless conspicuous and grows about timber line. The yellow heather alsogrows at the same altitude, and is larger and more common than theothers. It often forms beautiful areas where other vegetation is rare. The white rhododendron is a beautiful shrub of the lower meadows. Itscreamy white blossoms remind one of the cultivated azalea. There areseveral huckleberries, some with large bushes growing in the lowerforest area, others small and adapted to the grassy meadows. [Illustration: Studying the Phlox. ] [Illustration: Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily. (Xerophyllum tenax)] The figwort family has many and curious representatives. Therose-purple monkey-flower is very common and conspicuous in the lowermeadows, along the streams. It is nearly always accompanied by theyellow fireweed. Higher up, large meadow areas are arrayed in brightyellow by the alpine monkey-flower. Above timber line, twopentstemons, with matted leaves and short stems with brilliant purpleand red flowers, cover large rocky patches, mixed here and there withlavender beds of the alpine phlox; while the amber rays of the goldenaster, scattered through these variegated beds, lend their {p. 136}charm to the rocky ridges. The Indian paint-brush, the speedwell, theelephant's trunk, and the pigeon bills are all well-known members ofthe large figwort family which does much to embellish the Mountainmeadows. The valerian, often wrongly called "mountain heliotrope, " isvery common on the grassy slopes. Its odor can often be detectedbefore it is seen. The rosy spiraea, the mountain ash, and the wildcurrant, are three common shrubs in this area. There are also numeroussmall herbaceous plants of the saxifrage family, some forming densemats to the exclusion of other plants. The mertensias, polemoniums, and shooting stars add much to the purple and blue coloring. [Illustration: Avalanche Lilies (Erythronium montanum), sometimescalled deer tongues, forcing their way through the lingering snow. ] [Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Moraine Park, Sluiskin Mountains and Mystic Lake. ] Two liliaceous plants of low altitude are always objects of markedinterest. The Clintonia, popularly called alpine beauty, begins in theforest area, and continues up to the lower meadows. This may be knownby its pure white blossoms and blue berries. Its leaves are oblong intufts of from two to four. They spring up near the roots. The other isxerophyllum, mountain lily, sometimes called squaw grass, because itis used by the Indians in basket making. This has tall {p. 138} stemswith small fragrant flowers and coarse grass-like leaves. [Illustration {p. 137}: Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park, with view ofthe southwest slope and Peak Success, showing Purple Asters, withbunches of Hellebore in center of the flower field. ] [Illustration: Anemone Seed Pods. ] The orchid family has a few curious saprophytic representatives on thelower slopes. Mertin's coral-root is one of the most common. Thisgenerally grows in clusters in the mossy woods, along the trail orgovernment road above Longmire Springs. It is very common all aroundthe mountain at an altitude of 3, 000 to 4, 500 feet. With it, grow twotway-blades and the rattlesnake plantain. In bogs, two species ofpiperia, with long spikes of greenish flowers, are abundant. In driersituations, a small form of the ladies' tresses is easily recognizedby its spiral spike of small white flowers, which are more or lessfragrant. In some of the swamps at the base of the mountain grows_Limnorchis leucostachys_. This is one of our most fragrant flowers, as well as one of the most beautiful, with its long spike of purewhite blossoms. Of the ferns, the common brake is sometimes seen on the slopes nearthe terminal moraines of the glaciers. On the old moraines and cliffsis found the pea fern (_cryptogramma acrostichoides_), so calledbecause the pinnules of its fruiting fronds resemble those of a peapod. This dainty little fern with its two kinds of fronds is alwaysadmired by mountain visitors. It is strictly a mountain fern. The deerfern also has two kinds of fronds, but this grows all the way from sealevel to the glaciers, being at its best in the dense forest area. Thedelicate oak fern grows in great abundance from Eatonville to thetimber line, and probably does more to beautify the woods than anyother fern. The sword fern grows in dense, radiate clusters, allthrough the mossy woods. The fronds are often five or six feet inlength. The maidenhair fern is found along streams, waterfalls andmoist cliffs, reaching its highest development in the deep canyons cutthrough the dense forest. On the very top of Pinnacle Peak and similar elevations, grows thebeautiful mountain lace fern (_cheilanthes gracillima. _) Nearly everytourist presses a souvenir of it in his notebook. _Phegopterisalpesteris_ is abundant along the glacial valleys, where the tallgrasses and the beautiful array of alpine plants delight the eye. These ferns and grasses give a rich green color to the varigatedslopes where nature blends so many harmonious colors in matchlessgrandeur in this great fairyland of flowers. {p. 139}[Illustration: Wind Swept Trees on North Side, the last below the Snowline. ] The writer has a list of about three hundred and sixty species fromthe Mountain. It includes only flowering plants and ferns. There aremore than twenty type species named from the Mountain, not a few ofwhich are found nowhere else. Its geographical position makes it theboundary between the arctic plants from the North and the plants ofOregon and California from the South. Its great altitude has awonderful effect on plant life. This is seen in the trees at timberline, where snow rests upon them for months. Their prostrate trunksand gnarled branches give ample testimony to their extreme strugglefor existence. Where the ordinary plants cease to exist the snowyprotococcus holds undisputed sway on the extensive snow fields. Thisis a small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color inone stage of its existence. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks ofthe rim, will be found three or four mosses--I have noted one therewhich is not found anywhere else--several lichens, and at least oneliverwort. [Illustration: Lupines. ] {p. 140}[Illustration: Copyright, 1910, by E. F. Cutter. The Mountain, as seenfrom a high ridge in the Cascades near Green River Hot Springs, showing the north and east faces of the Peak, and Little Tahoma on theleft. ] NOTES. Rates, Trains, Hotel Accommodations. --The round-trip fare from Tacomavia the Tacoma Eastern is $6. 00. This includes railway transportationto Ashford and automobile-stage ride from Ashford to Longmire Springsand return. Tickets are good for the season. To parties of ten or moretraveling together a single ticket is issued at $5. 00 per capita. Aweek-end ticket, Saturday to Monday, is sold at $5. 00. The rates fromSeattle to the Springs are $1. 50 more, in each case, than the Tacomarates. The train schedule for 1911 follows: SOUTHBOUND Leave Seattle 7. 45 A. M. And 12. 30 P. M. Arrive Tacoma 8. 55 A. M. And 1. 40 P. M. Leave Tacoma 9. 05 A. M. And 1. 50 P. M. Arrive Ashford 11. 20 A. M. And 4. 05 P. M. Leave Ashford 11. 30 A. M. And 4. 15 P. M. Arrive at Inn 12. 45 P. M. And 5. 30 P. M. NORTHBOUND Leave Inn 7. 15 A. M. And 1. 30 P. M. Arrive Ashford 8. 30 A. M. And 2. 45 P. M. Leave Ashford 8. 40 A. M. And 2. 55 P. M. Arrive Tacoma 10. 55 A. M. And 5. 10 P. M. Leave Tacoma 11. 05 A. M. And 5. 15 P. M. Arrive Seattle 12. 15 P. M. And 6. 30 P. M. The National Park Inn, Longmire Springs, provides excellent rooms inthe Inn, with a large number of well-furnished and comfortable tentsnear by. The rates range from $2. 50 to $3. 75 a day, including meals. The dining-room is under the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sounddining-car management, which insures a satisfactory table. At the older Longmire Hotel, the rate is $2. 50 a day for room andboard. This hotel is open all the year, and in winter is muchfrequented by persons seeking Winter sports, or making use of themineral springs. The springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended for theirmedicinal virtues. Within an area of several acres, there are a scoreof these springs, varying from the normal temperature of a mountainstream almost to blood heat. Well-appointed bathhouses are maintained. Fee, including attendance, $1. 00. At Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, and at Mrs. Hall's similar tenthotel in Indian Henry's Park, the charge for meals, with a tent forsleeping, is $2. 50 per day. Stages, Horses, Guides. --The cost of getting from Longmire Springs toParadise or Indian Henry's is moderate. Many prefer to make the tripson foot over the mountain trails. Parties are made up several times aday, under experienced guides, for each of these great "parks, " andsure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1. 50for the round trip. Guides and horses for the new trail to Eagle Peakare at the same rate. Guides may be had at the {p. 141} National ParkInn or at either of the "camps" for many interesting trips over themountain trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies with thenumber in a party. Stages carry passengers from the Inn over the government road toNisqually glacier, Narada Falls and Reese's Camp in Paradise Park. Thecharge for the trip to Narada and return is $2. 00; to Paradise andreturn, $3. 00. For those who wish to make the ascent to the summit over the Gibraltartrail, trustworthy guides may be engaged at the Inn or at Reese's. Arrangements should be made several days in advance. The cost of sucha trip depends upon the number in a party. The guides make a charge of$25 for the first member of the party, and $5 each for the others. They furnish alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes of climbersat a reasonable charge. Each person should carry with him a blanket orextra coat and a small amount of food, for use in the event of beingon the summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required ifthe night is to be spent at Camp Muir. A sleeping-bag, which can beeasily made, or purchased at any outfitter's, will prove invaluable tocampers. Ascents from other points than Reese's are usually made inspecial parties. All persons are warned not to attempt an ascentunless accompanied by experienced guides. Lives have been lost throughneglect of this precaution. For persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate fromTacoma to Fairfax is $1. 25, and from Seattle to Fairfax, with changeof cars at Puyallup, $1. 75. Guides and horses may be engaged atFairfax for the Spray Park trail. Automobiles and Motorcycles. --These vehicles are permitted to use thegovernment road, as far as the Nisqually glacier, under the followingregulations of the Interior Department: No automobile or motorcycle will be permitted within the Park unlessits owner secures a written permit from the Superintendent, Edward S. Hall, Ashford, Washington, or his representative. Applications mustshow: Names of owner and driver, number of machine, and inclusivedates for which permit is desired, not exceeding one year, and beaccompanied by a fee of $5 for each automobile and $1 for eachmotorcycle. All permits will expire on December 31. Permits must bepresented to the Superintendent or his authorized representatives atthe park entrance on the government road. Automobiles and motorcycles will be permitted on the government roadwest of Longmire Springs between the hours of 7 A. M. And 8. 30 P. M. , but no automobile or motorcycle shall enter the Park or leave LongmireSprings in the direction of the western boundary, later than 8 P. M. , the use of automobiles and motorcycles to be permitted betweenLongmire Springs and Nisqually glacier between the hours of 9 A. M. And 9. 30 P. M. , but no automobile or motorcycle shall leave LongmireSprings in the direction of the glacier later than 7 P. M. When teams, saddle horses, or pack trains approach, automobiles andmotorcycles shall take position on the outer edge of the roadway, taking care that sufficient room is left on the inside for them topass, and remaining at rest until they have passed, or until thedrivers are satisfied regarding the safety of their horses. Horseshave the right of way, and automobiles and motorcycles will be backedor otherwise handled to enable horses to pass with safety. Speed shall be limited to 6 miles per hour, except on straightstretches where approaching teams, saddle horses, and pack trains willbe visible, when, if none are in sight, this speed may be increased tothe rate indicated on signboards along the road; in no event, however, shall it exceed 15 miles per hour. Signal with horn shall be given ator near every bend to announce to approaching drivers the proximity ofa machine. Violation of any of the foregoing rules, or the general regulations ofthe Park, will cause the revocation of permit, subject the owner ofthe automobile or motorcycle to any damages occasioned thereby and toejectment from the reservation, and be cause for refusal to issue anew permit without prior sanction in writing from the Secretary of theInterior. Literature of the Mountain. --Vancouver, Winthrop, Kautz, Stevens andVan Trump have been noted in the text. Other early accounts of, orreferences to, the Mountain may be found in _Wilkes: Narrative U. S. Exploring expedition_. Phil. 1845, v. 4, 413, 415, 424; _U. S. WarDep't: Explorations for railroad to Pacific, 1853-4_, v. 1, 192;_Gibbs: Journal Am. Geog. Soc. _, v. 4, 354-357. {p. 142} Gibbs'sIndian vocabularies, published at different dates, were reprinted fouryears after his death in _Contributions to Am. Ethnol. _, v. 1. Wash. 1877. For Emmons's account of his exploration in 1870, see _Bulletin Am. Geog. Soc. _ v. 9, 44-61. _Am. Jour. Of Science_, v. 101, 157-167, and_Nation_ v. 23, 313. Prof. Israel C. Russell's studies of the peak arein _U. S. Geol. Survey, 5th an. Rep. _ 335-339 and _18th an. Rep. , part2_, 349-415. See also his _Glaciers of N. Am. _, Bost. 1901, 62-67, and_Volcanoes of N. Am. _, Bost. 1895, 241-246. For other accessiblestudies consult _Wright: Ice age in N. Am. N. Y. _ 1889, and _Muir: Ournational parks_, Bost. 1901. The long controversy over the name of the peak is impartially reviewedin _Snowden: History of Washington_. N. Y. 1909, v. 4, 249-254. Snowden calls especial attention to an able paper by the late ThaddeusHanford of Olympia on the Indian names and recommending the nameTacoma for the Territory, which was printed in the _WashingtonStandard_ in January, 1866. This article should be reprinted by theState Historical Society, as it represents a movement of considerableforce at one time against the inept and confusing name adopted for theState. The Indian evidence for the native name of the Mountain wascollected in _Wickersham: Is it "Mt. Tacoma" or "Mt. Rainier?"_, pamphlet, Tacoma, 1893. The argument of an eminent traveler and authoragainst "Mt. Rainier" may be found in _Finck: Pacific coast scenictour_. N. Y. 1891, 209-213, 229-230; also in the same writer's morerecent article, _Scribner's Magazine_, v. 47, 234-5. See also _Lyman:The Columbia river_. N. Y. 1909, p. 32, 352-370, and _The Mountains ofWashington_, in _The Mountaineer_, v. 1, 7-10; and Charles F. Lummis'seditorial articles in _Out West_, v. 23, 367 and 494. On the otherhand, Prof. Davidson, in _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, 87-98, presentsreasons on which that club accepted "Mt. Rainier. " _Wheeler: Climbing Mt. Rainier_, St. Paul, 1895, and _Plummer:Illustrated guide book to Mt. Tacoma_, Tacoma, n. D. , are twopamphlets now out of print. The ascents by the Mazama, Sierra and Mountaineers clubs havefurnished material for a great variety of articles on the geology, botany and glacier action, as well as many accounts of climbingadventures. _Mazama_, v. 2, _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, and _TheMountaineer_, v. 1 and 2, are mainly devoted to this peak. Forarticles in periodicals of wider circulation, see _Review of Reviews_, v. 9, 163-171 (by Carl Snyder); _Out West_, v. 24, 365-395 (WilloughbyRodman); _National geog. Mag. _, v. 20, 530-538 (Milnor Roberts);_Scribner's_ v. 22, 169-171 (I. C. Russell); _Outing_, v. 5, 323-332(J. R. W. Hitchcock), and v. 38, 386-392 (Ada Woodruff Anderson);_Overland_, n. S. , v. 2, 300-312 (W. D. Lyman), v. 8, 266-278 (GeorgeBailey), v. 32, 114-123 (J. P. Montgomery), v. 46, 447-455 (Harry H. Brown), v. 55, 552-560 (A. W. McCully), and v. 56, 150-155 (A. W. McCully); _Pacific monthly_, v. 8, 196-202 (John Muir); _The worldtoday_, v. 9, 1047-53 (Anne Shannon Monroe); _Good words_, v. 42, 101-114 (Arthur Inkersley); _Appalachia_, v. 7, 185-205 (Ernest C. Smith), and v. 11, 114-125 (W. A. Brooks); _Country life in Am. _, v. 14, 170-171 (C. E. Cutter); _The Northwest_, v. 1, 2-10 (BaileyWillis); _Outdoor life_, v. 26, 15-24 (Edna Cadwallader). Specialstudies of the rocks of the peak may be found in _U. S. Geol. Sur. , 12th an. Rep. Pt. 1_, 612 (J. P. Iddings), and in _Neues Jahrbuch_, v. 1, 222-226, Stuttgart, 1885 (K. Oebeke). [Illustration: Glacial debris on lower part of Winthrop Glacier, withSluiskin Mountains beyond. ] {p. 143} INDEX. Figures in light face type refer to the text, those in the heaviertype to illustrations. Adams, Mount, 77, 86, 64, 66. Allen, Prof. O. D. , cottage, 49. Alta Vista, 49, 60. American Alpine Club, 126. Anemones, 32; seed pods, 138. Appalachian Club, 126. Ascents, Kautz, 117; Stevens and Van Trump, 120-4; Emmons and Wilson, 124; Glascock and Dudley, 125; the mountain clubs, 126. Automobiles, 57, 70-72, 141, 41, 49, 54. Avalanche on Willis Wall, 119. Avalanche Camp, 103, 104, 105. Avalanche Lilies, 136. Baker, Mount, 86, 98, 99. Ballinger, Richard, H. 75. Basaltic Columns, --South Mowich, 23; on Cowlitz, 93. Bashford, Herbert, --verse, 17. Bee Hive, 76, 80. Beljica, view from, 27. Brooks, Francis, --verse, 40. Cabins needed on the ridges, 116, 144. Camp of the Clouds, 49, 61, 60. Carbon river, 50, 103, 114. Cascade Mountains, 66, 87, 90, 96. Cathedral Rocks, 85, 76, 84, 78. Chittenden, Maj. H. M. , urges trail, 69. Columbia's Crest, 86, 88, 52, 78. Commencement Bay, 28. Congress, action affecting the Park, 58, 59, 67, 70. Cowlitz Chimneys, 43, 78, 81. Cowlitz Cleaver, 85, 76, 78, 81. Cowlitz Park, 64, 93. Crater, 50, 88, 89. Crater Lake, 117. Crater Peak, 13, 86, 60, 89. Curtis, Camp, on the Wedge, 97. Cushman, Francis W. , 59, 108. Dudley, Ernest, 125. Eagle Cliff, 51. Eagle Peak (Simlayshe), 30, 31; new trail to, 141. Eagle Rock in winter, 7. East-side route to summit, 117, 126, 100. Edmunds, George F. , 96. Electric-power development, 108-112. Electron, The Mountain from, 13, 19; Power plant at, 108, 112. Emmons, S. F. , Geologist, 94-97. Fairfax, trail from, 50. Fair Mountaineer, A, 35. Fairy Falls, 73. Fay Peak, 51, 92. Ferns, 132. Fires, danger of forest, 8, 58, 130. Flett, Prof. , J. B. , 129, n. Flint, Frank P. , U. S. Senator, 75. Flood, Indian legend of the, 39. Fox Island, the Mountain from, 14. Fountain, Paul, quoted, 43. Fuller, Miss Fay, 126, 72. Gap Point, 61, 54. "Ghost Trees, " 50. Gibbs, George, on name "Mt. Tacoma, " 104, 107, 142. Gibraltar Rock, 82, 85, 116, 121, 60, 68, 71, 76, 78, 81, 82, 83, 85, 86. Glaciers, their number and work, 79-83; moraines, 83, 68, 77, 79, 96; rate of flow, 83, 72; names, 93-97; rivers, 108; --Carbon, 50, 51, 77, 103, 105, 107, 108, 118, 119, 120, 121, 129; --Cowlitz, 50, 93, 6, 51, 78, 81, 84, 87; --Frying-Pan, 93, 41, 96, 97; --Ingraham, 93, 78; --Interglacier, 93, 98, 99; --Kautz, 93, 27, 30, 37, 60, 68; --North Mowich, 50-52, 96, 13, 123, 124, 128; --South Mowich, 52, 13, 22, 23; --Nisqually, 49, 31, 55, 57, 60, 68, 69, 71, 72, 78, 81; --Paradise, 50, 94, 97, 25, 31, 60, 79; --Puyallup, 52, 13, 27, 33; --Stevens, 50, 97, 61, 64, 79; --North Tahoma, 93, 13, 26, 27, 32, 33, 37; --South Tahoma, 93, 17, 27, 32, 36, 37, 60; --Van Trump, 94, 31, 60; --White, 50, 81, 93, 9, 12, 94, 95, 96, 100, 121; --Winthrop, 50, 51, 93, 94, 8, 17, 130, 103, 104, 107, 113, 126, 142. Glascock, Raglan, 125. "Goat Island, " moraine, 96. Goat Mountain (Mt. Wow), 28. Goat Peaks, 87, 90, 94. Grand Park, 51, 64, 98, 99. Green River, view of the Mountain from, 140. Guides, 113, 141. Hanging glaciers, 51, 57. Heather, 133. Hellebore, 133. Hiaqua Hunter, Myth, 32-39. Hood, Mt. , 86. Hylebos, P. F. (Rev. ), 28, n. Ice caves, 31, 73. Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, 49, 25, 29, 32, 34, 36, 37, 40, 50, 131, 137; --Mrs. Hall's Camp, 141. Indians, nature worship of the Mountain, 25-31, 39; Puget Sound tribes, 25, 26; fear of the snow-peaks, 32, 121. Ingraham, Maj. E. S. , 100. Interglaciers, 93. Iron and Copper mountains, 25, 30. Jones, Wesley L. , U. S. Senator, 75. Jordan, David Starr, 67. Judson, Miss Katharine B. 35, 39. Kautz, Gen. , A. V. , 117. Kulshan, Indian name for Mt. Baker, 98. Kutz, Maj. C. W. , 69. Liberty Cap (North Peak), 86, 22, 89, 114. Little Tahoma, 82, 85, 9, 31, 60, 78, 79, 94, 121. Longmire, James, trail and road, 59. Longmire Hotel, 141. Longmire Springs, 44, 51, 141, 52. Lost to the World, 69. Lupines, 139. McClure, Prof. Edgar, death, 115. Marmot, 26. Matthes, Francois E. , U. S. Geologist, 89, 97. Mazama (mountain goat), 23. Mazama Club, 126, 81, 82. Mazama Ridge, 60. Mineral Lake, 18. Moraine Park, 51, 126, 105, 113, 117, 129, 136. Mosses and ferns, 132. Mother Mountains, 103, 114, 116, 122, 129. Mountaineers, The, 126, 61, 121, 126. Mountain goat, 23. Mountain Lily, 136, 135. Mountain Pine, 28. Muir John, quoted, 77, 113, 129; Portrait, 116. Muir, Camp, 115, 60, 80, 83. Mystic Lake, 113. Narada Falls, 61, 107, 58. National Park, see Rainier Natl. Park. National Parks, proposed Bureau of, 75. National Park Inn, 44, 50, 52. Nisqually Canyon, 21. Nisqually Glacier (see Glaciers). Nisqually river, 108, 111, 21, 24, 55. North Peak (Liberty Cap), 13, 22, 89. Ohop Valley, 43. Pacific Forest Reserve, 59. Paradise River, 59. Paradise Valley, or Park, 30, 49-51, 61, 31, 39, 46, 53, 59, 60, 62. Peak Success (South Peak), 86, 123-125, 13, 24, 25, 27, 33, 37, 60, 68, 78. Phlox, 135. Pierce County road, 43, 49. Piles, S. H. , U. S. Senator, 70. Pinnacle Peak, 38, 39, 46, 47. Point Defiance Park, 18. Power-plants on the Mountain, 108-112, 111, 112. Proctor, Miss Edna Dean, poem, "The Mountain Speaks, " 15. Ptarmigan, 40. Puget Sound 18, 25, 14; named by Vancouver, 98. Puyallup river, 108, 40. Pyramid Peak, 25, 60. Railways to Puget Sound, 44; to the Mountain, 54, 57; rates and time table, 140. Rainier, Rear-Admiral Peter, 7, 98, 100, 103, n. , 101. Reese's Camp, 61, 115, 141, 64. Reflection Lake, 60, 77. Rainier National Park, 54; increasing use of, 56, 57; its creation, 58-9; see also Roads. Ricksecker, Eugene, engineer, 61, 62, 70, 97. Rivers fed by the Mountain, 108. Rocks of the Mountain, 82, 112. Roads and trails, Pierce County's to the Mountain, 44, 56, 42, 43, 44, 49; government road in National Park, 57-62, 51, 54, 55, 56; trails 44, 45, 50-2, 55, 56, 121; proposed road around the Mountain, 62-70; need 58, 130. Rough climbing, 39. Russell, Prof. Israel C. , 94. Russell Peak, 82, 103, 105. Saghalie Illahe, Indian land of peace, 30. St. Elmo Pass, 8, 98, 100, 102, 104. St. Helen's, Mt. , 77, 86, 29, 36. Seattle, 18, 43, 44, 108. Senecio, 129. Sierra Club, 75, 126, 57, 69. Simlayshe (Eagle Peak), 30. Siwashes, origin of term, 28, n. See also Indians. Sluiskin, guides Stevens and Van Trump, 28, 32, 120-1. Sluiskin Falls, 67. Sluiskin Mountains, 51, 103, 105, 126, 136, 142. Snipe Lake, 98. Snow Lake, 34. Sour-Dough Mountains, 8, 98, 99. Spanaway Lake, 4. South Peak, see Peak Success. Spray Falls, 125. Spray Park, 50, 51, 92, 106, 116, 122. Steamboat Prow, 51, 85, 104. Steam Caves in Crater, 88. Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 28, n. , 32, 96, 97, 120-4, 115. Stevens Canyon, 64, 66. Storm King Peak, 18. Summit, On the, 52; South-side route to, 60; East-side route, 100. "Sunshine" and "Storm, " 70. "Tacoma, " Indian name for the Mountain, 25, 100-7. Tacoma (City) 18, 43, 44, 111. Tatoosh Mountains, 50, 53, 59, 60, 62, 64, 87. Tolmie, Dr. W. F. , 117. Trees in the National Park, 129-131, 139, 42, 130, 132. Tyndall, Prof. John, quoted, 77. Unicorn Peak, 65. United States Geological Survey, 89. Vancouver, Capt. George, discovers and names the Mountain, 98-101. Van Trump, P. B. , 28, n. , 32, 120-5, 115. Washington Lake, the Mountain from, 16. Washington Torrents, 59. Waterfall above Paradise Valley, 63. Wedge, The, 51, 85, 8, 97, 99, 100. White river, 110, 12, 112. Whitney, Mt. , 90. Willis, Bailey, geologist, 96, 97. Wilson, A. D. , 96, 97. Whulge, see Puget Sound. Winthrop, Theodore, 93; describes the Mountain, 102-4; authority for his use of the Indian name, 104-7. Wind-swept trees, 28, 139. Wow, Mt. (Goat Mountain), 28. Yellowstone National Park, 57, 67, 72. [Illustration {p. 144}: A climbers' cabin on one of the shoulders of Mt. Blanc. ] [Illustration: The Lakeside Press Chicago R. R. Donnelley & Sons Co. ] [Illustration {p. 145}: Map Of Puget Sound Country And Roads To Mt. Rainier-tacoma] [Illustration {p. 146}: Map of RAINIER NATIONAL PARK Compiled by EUGENERICKSECKER U. S. Assistant Engineer FROM "THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS'GOD'"]