Transcriber's Note

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of correctionsis found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling andhyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelledand hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. 

 THE

 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK;

 CONTAINING

 CLEAR AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS

 IN

 PLAIN AND FANCY NEEDLEWORK, EMBROIDERY, KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET. 

 WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE VARIOUS STITCHES IN THOSE USEFUL AND FASHIONABLE EMPLOYMENTS. 

 NEW-YORK: J. WINCHESTER, 30 ANN-STREET 1844. 

INTRODUCTION. 

If it be true that "home scenes are rendered happy or miserable inproportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them bywoman--as sister, wife, or mother"--it will be admitted as a fact of theutmost importance, that every thing should be done to improve the taste, cultivate the understanding, and elevate the character of those "highpriestesses" of our domestic sanctuaries. The page of history informsus, that the progress of any nation in morals, civilization, andrefinement, is in proportion to the elevated or degraded position inwhich woman is placed in society; and the same instructive volume willenable us to perceive, that the fanciful creations of the needle, haveexerted a marked influence over the pursuits and destinies of man. 

To blend the useful, with the ornamental and to exhibit the gushingforth of mind, vitalised by the warm and glowing affections of theheart, is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of woman. Without herinfluence, life would be arrayed in sables, and the proud lords ofcreation would be infinitely more miserable and helpless than the beaststhat perish. To render then those "terrestrial angels" all that ourfondest wishes could desire, or our most vivid imaginations picture, must be, under any circumstances, a pleasing and delightful employment;while for a father or a brother to behold her returning all the carebestowed upon her, by the thousand offices of love, to the performanceto which she alone is equal, is doubtless one of the most exaltedsources of human felicity. 

Providence has, in a remarkable manner, adapted woman's tastes andpropensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the scale ofbeing. Tender and affectionate, it is her highest bliss to minister tothe wants, the convenience, or the pleasure of those she loves; andhence, her inventive powers have been, in all ages, called into earlyand active exercise, in the fabrication of those articles calculated toaccomplish those desirable ends. Amongst these, Useful and OrnamentalNeedlework, Knitting, and Netting, occupy a distinguished place, andare capable of being made, not only sources of personal gratification, but of high moral benefit, and the means of developing in surpassingloveliness and grace, some of the highest and noblest feelings of thesoul. 

To become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition toevery fair one. Never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive, aswhen engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties, anddomestic cares. The subjects treated of in this little manual are ofvast importance, and to them we are indebted for a large amount of thecomforts we enjoy; as, without their aid, we should be reduced to astate of misery and destitution of which it is hardly possible to forman adequate conception. To learn, then, how to fabricate articles ofdress and utility for family use, or, in the case of ladies blessed withthe means of affluence, for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor, should form one of the most prominent branches of female education. Andyet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant withthe general state of society, that this is a branch of study to whichnothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of schoolinstruction. The effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent inafter life, when, from a variety of circumstances, such knowledge wouldbe of the highest advantage, and subservient to the noblest ends, eitherof domestic comfort, or of active and generous benevolence. 

The records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the art ofneedlework; and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the earliestdevelopments of female taste and ingenuity. As civilization increased, new wants called forth new exertions; the loom poured forth itsmultifarious materials, and the needle, with its accompanyingimplements, gave form and utility to the fabrics submitted to itsoperations. No one can look upon THE NEEDLE, without emotion; it is aconstant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life. We find it thefirst instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood, and itis found to retain its usefulness and charm, even when trembling in thegrasp of fast declining age. The little girl first employs it in thedressing of her doll: then she is taught its still higher use, in makingup some necessary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent. Approaching to womanhood, additional preparations of articles of use, asornaments of herself and others, call for its daily employment; and withwhat tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom, asbeneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover or adorn abride, becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill andfond regard. To the adornments of the bridal bed, the numerouspreparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger, and the variouscomforts and conveniences of life, the service of this little instrumentis indispensible. Often too is it found aiding in the preparation ofgifts of friendship, the effects of benevolence, and the works ofcharity. Many of those articles, which minister so essentially to thesolace of the afflicted, would be unknown without it; and its friendlyaid does not desert us, even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction. By its aid, we form the last covering which is to enwrap the body of adeparted loved one, and prepare those sable habiliments, which customhas adopted as the external signs of mourning. 

The needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to thefemale heart; and we would impress this truth seriously upon theirrecollection, that as there is

 "Sermons in stones, And good in every thing. "

so the needle they so often use, is, or may be, a silent but salutarymoral teacher. They all know that however good the eye of a needle maybe, if it were rusted and pointless, it would be of little use. Let themalso recollect, that though it may posses the finest point and polish inthe world, if destitute of the eye, it would be of no use at all. Thelesson we wish them to derive from hence, is this; that as it is the eyewhich holds the thread, and that it is by the thread alone that theneedle becomes useful, so it is the eye of intelligence directed to theattainment of useful ends, that gives all the real value to the pointand polish, which is so much admired in the educated female; and thatunless the intellectual powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits ofgoodness, all other endowments will be useless to their possessor. Letthem learn also, not to despise such of their companions as, thoughintelligent and useful, are neither possessed of wit or elegance equalto their own. Circumstances may have rendered them, like the needle, rusty and pointless; but the eye of intelligence is there, and they maystill be useful. 

The want of a work containing clear instructions, without unnecessarydiffuseness, by which the uninitiated may become their own instructors, has long been sensibly felt; and this want, the following pages areintended to supply. Our aim is, not to make young ladies servilecopyists, but to lead them to the formation of habits of thought andreflection, which may issue in higher attainments than the knitting of ashawl, or the netting of a purse. 

Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to thedevelopment of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at allworthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world toflutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen andadmired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to makeall our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to thehappiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To thisend, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wishthem to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve somenoble purpose, which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, thewell-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and theelegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of aleisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and suchthey will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, andplaced in due subordination to the right exercise of more importantduties, which we owe to Heaven, to our fellow beings, and to ourselves. 

We are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the attainmentof moral ends; and to lay that foundation of intellectual superiority, and affectionate regard, for the comfort and happiness of others, whichcan alone give light and animation, sweetness and blooming freshness, tothe interesting scenes of future life. All engagements, which arecalculated to elevate, soften, and harmonize the human character, havethis tendency; and it is in the assured conviction that the employmentshere treated of, are, when cultivated in due subordination to higherduties, well adapted to secure these objects, and to promote thesedomestic ends, that the Ladies' Work-Table Book has been prepared, andis now presented to the lovely daughters of our land. The public will bethe best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort. Small as thework is, it has not been produced without much labor, and considerableexercise of thought; and it is dedicated to our fair countrywomen, inthe fervent hope, that it will not be found altogether unworthy of theirfavorable notice and regard. 

In concluding these introductory remarks, we wish to say a word or twoto the parents and guardians of those, whose excellence of character isso essential to the welfare of our beloved country. We trust by you, ourlittle manual will be cordially approved, and placed, as a memento ofaffection, in the hands of those you most desire to see models ofsincerity, elegance, and accomplishments. This will be well; but wetrust the matter will not be allowed to rest there. It is not when goodinstructors and proper books are provided for the young, that the dutiesof the parental relationship are performed. No; care must be taken togive efficiency to the means thus called into requisition, by the mostassiduous care, devoted attention, and judiciously expressed approval onthe part of those who claim the highest regard from the risinggeneration. The path of education is not always strewed with flowers, nor can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless afoundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid, on which thesuperstructure may securely rest. 

It has been well remarked "that intellect may be cultivated at school, but that the affections of the heart can only be properly developed amidthe scenes of home. " Our aim in this work has been, while seeking topromote the purposes of genuine education, to raise high the moralsentiments, and cultivate to an eminent degree the best sensibilities ofthe soul. In this we ask for your cordial and careful co-operation. Weknow the influence of a judicious mother, and we confidently commend ourlabor to your favorable regard. 

CONTENTS. 

 CHAPTER I. MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING 17

 CHAPTER II. PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 28

 CHAPTER III. PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN 37

 CHAPTER IV. PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN 54

 CHAPTER V. PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS 59

 CHAPTER VI. FANCY NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 63

 CHAPTER VII. FANCY NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS 71

 CHAPTER VIII. FANCY NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY 79

 CHAPTER IX. FANCY NEEDLEWORK--PREPARATION OF FRAMES 82

 CHAPTER X. FANCY NEEDLEWORK--APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES 88

 CHAPTER XI. FANCY NEEDLEWORK--SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS 91

 CHAPTER XII. KNITTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 97

 CHAPTER XIII. KNITTING--EXAMPLES IN KNITTING 111

 CHAPTER XIV. NETTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 125

 CHAPTER XV. NETTING--EXAMPLES IN NETTING 135

 CHAPTER XVI. CROCHET--EXPLANATION OF THE PRINCIPAL STITCHES IN CROCHET WORK 142

 CHAPTER XVII. CROCHET--EXAMPLES IN CROCHET 148

 CHAPTER XVIII. TATTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 153

 CHAPTER XIX. CONCLUDING REMARKS 155

THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 

CHAPTER I. 

MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING. 

MATERIALS FOR PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 

The subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possible to paytoo much attention; since, on the judicious selection of materials, depends, to a vast extent, the success of that prudent andwell-regulated economy, which is so essential to the welfare andprosperity of every family. On this account, we have thought it right toplace before our readers the following observations, which should becarefully attended to, as of the utmost importance. In purchasing goods, be careful to examine the quality; and, if not experienced in suchmatters, take with you an experienced friend. Cheap goods generallyprove the dearest in the end. The following rules may assist you in thisrespect, if under the necessity of relying upon your own judgment. Becareful, in purchasing articles, such as linen, calico, &c. , for aspecific purpose, to have it the proper width. A great deal of waste maybe incurred, by inattention to this important direction. 

CALICO is often so dressed up, as to make it extremely difficult toascertain its real quality: hence, it is best to buy it undressed. Itshould be soft, and free from specks. It is of various widths, and ofalmost all prices. A good article, at a medium price, will be foundcheapest in the end. 

LINEN is of various qualities. That which is called Suffolk hemp isconsidered the best. Irish linen is also in great repute. But you mustbe careful to escape imposition; as there are plenty of imitations, which are good for nothing. 

MUSLIN CHECKS are much used for caps, &c. , and are of various qualities. You may form a good judgment of these, by observing the thin placesbetween the checks and the threads; if the former be good, and thelatter even, they may generally be relied on. 

BLUE CHECKS. --These may be procured either of cotton or linen; but thelinen ones, though highest in price, are cheapest in the end: they willwear double the length of time that the cotton ones will. 

PRINTS. --Give a good price, if you wish to secure a good article. Somecolors, as red, pink, lilac, bright brown, buff, and blue, wear well;green, violet, and some other colors are very liable to fade. The bestway is to procure a patch, and wash half of it. This will test thecolor, and may prevent much disappointment. 

FLANNELS. --The Welsh flannels are generally preferred, as those that arethe most durable. Lancashire flannels are cheapest, but are far inferiorin quality. You may know the one from the other by the color: theflannels of Lancashire are of a yellowish hue; those of Wales are a kindof bluish gray tint. 

WOOLLEN CLOTHS. --These vary exceedingly, as to quality. The low-pricedones are not worth half the purchase money. Good woollen cloth issmooth, and has a good nap. If the sample shown you, be destitute ofthese qualities, have nothing to do with it, unless you want to becheated. 

STUFFS. --The quality of these is sometimes very difficult to detect. Holding them up to the light is a good plan. You should also beparticular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indifferentlymanaged, and the stuff is dashed. Black dye is liable to injure thematerial. Low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything. 

CRAPE. --This is often damaged in the dying. You should spread it over awhite surface before you purchase it, as by that means, the blemishes inthe material, if any, will be more likely to appear. 

SILKS. --These are, if good, costly; and great care should be exercisedin selecting them. They should not be too stiff, as in that case theyare liable to crack; and on the other hand, they should not be too thin, as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper. A mediumthickness and stiffness is the best. If plain, you must be careful thatthere are no stains or specks in them; and if figured, it is advisableto have the pattern equally good on both sides. This will enhance theprice at first, but you will find it to be good economy afterward. Insilks that are to be sold cheap, a kind of camel's hair is frequentlyintroduced. This may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspectedsilk cross ways, and if camel's hair be mixed with it, it will springwith a kind of whirring sound. This should be attended to. 

SATIN. --It is of various qualities and prices. The best is soft andthick. When used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross way, as itthen looks better, and has a much richer appearance than when put onstraight. 

These general observations will be of great use, and should be wellimpressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into exercise whenneeded. 

In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sewing-silkshould be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored threads andcotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, should be kept folded up; as exposure to the air not only tarnishesthem, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways. 

MATERIALS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch withdouble wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c. 

Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch, overone thread, with single wool. If used for grounding, work in twothreads. This will accelerate the work, and look equally well. 

Silk Leaves. --If no grounding is required, work in tent stitch. Thepattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the material. The finer the canvas, the larger the pattern. 

Color. --An attention to shade is of the utmost consequence; as on this, in an eminent degree, depends the perfection of the work. The shadesmust be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony ofcoloring will be destroyed. The canvas must be more distinct in tentstitch than in cross stitch, or rather more strongly contrasted, especially in the dark shades of flowers: without attention to thispoint, a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained. 

Wool, (English and German) white, black, and various colors. --Two, three, four, five, or six shades of each color, as the nature of thework may require. The same observation applies to silk and cotton, incases where those materials are used. 

Split wool, for mosaic work. 

Silk. Split silk. Floss. Half twist. Deckers. China silk. Fine pursesilk. 

Cotton, of various kinds. 

Gold twist. Silver thread. Chenille. 

Beads. Thick and transparent gold. Bright and burnt steel. Silverplated, &c. 

Perforated cards. 

Canvas, called bolting, for bead work. 

SCALE OF CANVASES. 

 English Canvas. ------------------------------------------- Canvas No. Cross stitch. Tent stitch. ------------------------------------------- 16 4-1/2 9 18 5 10 20 5-1/2 11 22 6 12 24 6-1/2 13 26 7 14 28 7-1/2 15 30 8 16 32 9 18 34 9-1/2 19 36 10 20 38 10-1/4 21 40 11 22 42 11-1/2 23 45 12-1/2 25 48 13 26 50 14 28 55 15 30 60 17 34

 Silk Canvas. ------------------------------------------- Canvas No. Cross stitch. Tent stitch. ------------------------------------------- 14 28

 French Canvas. ------------------------------------------- Canvas No. Cross stitch. Tent stitch. ------------------------------------------- 10 6-1/2 13 12 7-1/2 15 14 8-1/2 17 16 9-1/2 19 18 10 20 19 11 22 20 12 24 22 13 26 24 14 28 26 30 15 30 40 16 32

MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERY. 

Silk, satin, velvet, and cloth. 

MATERIALS FOR KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET. 

SILK. --This material is extensively used in the various productions ofwhich we are about to treat. The kinds usually employed in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet, are purse silk, or twist; coarse and fine nettingsilk; second sized purse twist; plain silk; China silk; extra fine, andfinest netting silk; second sized netting silk; coarse and finechenille, and crochet silk. These are so well known that it would be awaste of time to describe them in detail. They are of a great variety ofcolors, and of different qualities; some sorts being much more durable, both in fabric and color, than others. No young lady should trust, atfirst, to her own judgment in making the selection: but a littleattention will soon render her a proficient in the art of choosing themost profitable materials. The China silks of the French surpass allothers, of that kind, with which we are acquainted, both as to thenature of tints, and the brilliancy of the various dyes and shades. 

WOOL. --This is of various colors and shades; German wool, single, anddouble; Hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, seven, andeight threads; embroidery fleecy Shetland wool; English wool, coarseyarn, for mitts. 

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF WOOLS. 

German wool is the produce of the merino breed, in its highest state ofcultivation, and is the best sheep's wool we possess. The merino fleeceis brought to the greatest perfection in Saxony, and the adjacentstates. It is chiefly manufactured for the purposes of needle-work, &c. , at Gotha; the dyeing of it is performed at Berlin, and in other parts ofGermany. The wools of Germany are, in fineness and softness, much, superior to those of Spain. The wool is prepared in various sizes, andfor some kinds of work, may be split with great advantage. A largequantity is imported into this country in a raw state, and is dyed andmanufactured here. Some of this is equal to the wools prepared inGermany, as to quality; but the brilliancy of the color will not bearcomparison. This remark does not extend to the black German wool, prepared in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared onthe continent. Much wool, of a very superior quality is annuallyprepared for the market; and so great is its resemblance to a superiorarticle, that it requires much attention, and an experienced eye, todetect the fraud. English wool, or what is often called embroidery wool, is much harsher than that of Germany; yet it is of a very superior kind, and much to be preferred for some kinds of work. The dye of severalcolors of English lamb's wool is equal to that of the best dyes ofGermany; especially scarlet and some of the shades of blue, green, andgold color, which for brilliancy and permanency, may justly claimequality with the most finished productions of the continental states. 

Worsted is another description of our native produce, and is extensivelyused for a great variety of useful purposes, which are familiar to everyone. A great portion of the needle-work of the last century was done ina fine kind of worsted, called CREWELS: and some specimens still remain, which do great credit to the venerable grandames of the presentgeneration. Yarn is a coarse kind of worsted, much employed in makinggarden nets, and for various other purposes. Fleecy (English) ismanufactured from the Leicestershire breed, and is much used in knittingand netting: it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from aneighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. They are made up of threads, varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. They are appliedto crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work named. Germanfleecy, thought but little used, is much superior to that of thiscountry. Hamburgh wool is an excellent article, but has not hithertobeen much in request. Great care is necessary, in selecting wool of goodquality: but let the young novice give to the subject her bestattention; and should she find herself sometimes deceived, stillpersevere, remembering that "practice makes perfect. "

COTTON, of various sizes, as numbered from one to six, or higher ifrequired. In the choice of this material, much care is needed, not onlyin the selection of colors and shades, but also to ascertain if thecolor has been stained with a permanent dye. 

DOWN. --This is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions, muffs, &c. , and is too well known to need any description here. 

GOLD AND SILVER THREAD AND CORD. --The precious metals are now verygenerally employed in the ornamental parts of all kinds of fancy work. Gold and silver threads consists of a thread of silk, round which isspun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal required. For gold, silver orcopper gilt wire is employed, as pure gold could not be so easilywrought. These threads can be employed in almost any way which the tasteof the fair artist may induce her to devise. Besides the thread, goldand silver cord is also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful, when employed with taste and judgment. This material is a twist, and iscomposed of different quantities of threads, according to the thicknessrequired. Much care is required in working with it, or the beauty of thematerial will be spoilt. It is much used in crochet, and without dueattention, the point of the needle is liable to catch the cord, and tobreak the wire, which would entirely destroy the beauty of theperformance. 

BEADS. --These beautiful fabrications of art, are composed of gold, silver, polished steel, and glass. There is also a beautiful sort calledgarnet beads, with gold points. All these can be procured at any of theestablishments for the sale of fancy articles, and are to be employed asthe judgment or fancy may direct. The gold beads are used in making allkinds of knitting, netting, and crochet, and look well either bythemselves, or when in connection with those of the other materialsnamed. Glass beads, may be procured of any variety of color, and when incombination with gold, silver, or steel, form a beautiful relief. 

NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

Frames. Cross stitch needles. Sewing needles. Meshes, of varioussizes--at least three. Chenille Needles. Pair of long sharp-pointedscissors. Cartridge Paper. Tissue Paper. A fine piercer. Seam piercer. Camel's hair brushes. 

Mixture of white lead and gum water, to draw patterns for darkmaterials. 

Mixture of stone blue and gum water, for light colors. 

Black lead pencils. 

NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR KNITTING. 

Needles of various sizes. The Nos. Referred to are those of the knittingneedle gauge. Needles pointed at either end, for Turkish knitting. Ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. A knitting sheath, &c. , to be fastened on the waist of the knitter, toward the right hand, forthe purpose of keeping the needle in a steady and proper position. 

NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR NETTING. 

A pin or mesh, on which to form the loops. A needle called a nettingneedle, formed into a kind of fork, with two prongs at each end. Theends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point, not fastened like theeye of a common needle, but left open, that the thread or twine may passbetween them, and be wound upon the needle. The prongs are brought to apoint, in order that the needle may pass through a small loop withoutinterruption. Twine to form foundations. A fine long darning needle forbead work. Meshes of various, sizes from No. 1 to 11. Flat meshes, andivory meshes; also of various sizes. The gauge is the same as that forknitting-needles. 

NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR CROCHET. 

[Illustration]

Ivory crochet needles of various sizes. Steel crochet needles. Rugneedles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors. These implementsshould be disposed in a regular and orderly manner, as should also thematerials for working. Order and regularity are matters but toofrequently neglected in the gay and buoyant season of youth; and thisfault, which is the parent of so much annoyance in after life, is buttoo generally overlooked by those whose duty it is to correct theseincipient seeds of future mischief. No pursuit should be entered into bythe young, without having some moral end in view, and this is especiallyneedful to be observed in cases, where at first sight, it might appear amatter of indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or ofmere relaxation. We earnestly entreat our young friends, never toforget, that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sacrificeto their heavenly Father, if they assiduously endeavor to make thehabits they form in their seasons of relaxation from graver studies, conduce to the development of the higher faculties of their nature, andsubordinate preparations for a more exalted state of being, than anywhich this transitory scene can of itself present to theircontemplation and pursuits. Dyer, speaking of Tapestry, has beautifullysaid--

 "This bright art Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan lands, While she assayed with rage of holy war To desolate their fields; but old the skill: Long were the Phrygian's pict'ring looms renown'd; Tyre also, wealthy seat of art, excell'd, And elder Sidon, in th' historic web. "

But we would have our fair friends to place before them a high and adefinite object. Let them seek, like the excellent Miss Linwood--

 "To raise at once our reverence and delight, To elevate the mind and charm the sight, To pour religion through the attentive eye, And waft the soul on wings of extacy; Bid mimic art with nature's self to vie, And raise the spirit to its native sky. "

CHAPTER II. 

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 

EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 

Before commencing those directions, which we deem it necessary toplace before our readers, in reference to this important portionof the work-table manual, we wish to say a word or two to our faircountrywomen, on the importance of a general and somewhat extensiveacquaintance with those arts, on which so much of the comfort ofindividual and domestic life depends. Economy of time, labor, andexpenses, is an essential requisite in every family; and will ever claima due share of attention, from her who is desirous of fulfilling withcredit to herself and advantage to others, the allotted duties of herappointed station. To those, who are at the head of the majority offamilies, an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plainneedlework is indispensable. The means placed at their disposal arelimited; in many instances, extremely so: and to make the most of thesemeans, generally provided by the continual care and unremittingattention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which cannotbe violated without the entailment of consequences which every wellregulated mind must be anxious to avoid. 

The following are the principal stitches used in plain needlework. 

SEWING AND FELLING. --If you have selvages, join them together and sewthem firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, andthe other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. Thisis for the fell. The two pieces are pinned face to face, and seamedtogether; the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deepenough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. Then flatten theseam with the thumb, turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming. The thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over. 

HEMMINGS. --Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and becareful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left;bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand. Fasten the thread without a knot, and when you finish, sew severalstitches close together, and cut off the thread. 

GERMAN HEMMING. --Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to doit, as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one belowthe other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch theother, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed orfelled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding itbefore you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you havebeen employed upon; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell itdown, and the work is done. 

MANTUAMAKER'S HEM. --You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a littlebelow the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, andfelled down as strong as possible. 

RUNNING. --Take three threads, leave three, and in order that the workmay be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. If you sewselvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if raw edges, onemust be turned down once, and the other laid upon it, but a few threadsfrom the top. It is, in this case, to be felled afterwards. 

STITCHING. --The work must be even as possible. Turn down a piece tostitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen threads fromthe edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring, the needle out, from under two before. Proceed in this manner, to theend of the row; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care topass the needle between the edges and bring it out where the last stitchwas finished. 

GATHERING. --You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividingit into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to make thedivisions. The piece, to which you are intending to gather it, must begathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on theneedle, and leaving four; and so preceding, alternately, until onequarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin;stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strongneedle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers aregathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of eachquarter, so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is tobe sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and thestitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered mustbe cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible tomake the gathering look well. 

DOUBLE GATHERING, OR PUFFING. --This is sometimes employed in setting onfrills; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. You first gatherthe top, in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, yougather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wishthe puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c. You design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with thewidth of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so asto form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, bygathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may bestraight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requiresmuch exactness, in the execution; but if properly done, it gives apleasing variety to the work. 

WHIPPING. --You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters, as for gathering. You then roll the muslin or other material verylightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. The needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on theinside. The whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible. Inorder that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken withgreat care. The roll of the whip should be about ten threads. 

[Illustration]

BUTTON-HOLE STITCH. --These should be cut by a thread, and their lengthshould be that of the diameter of the button. In working, thebutton-hole must lie lengthways upon the forefinger; and you begin atthe side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the pointof the finger on which it is laid. The needle must go in on the wrongside, and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make thestitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close. In turning the corners, be careful not to do it too near; and in orderthat a proper thickness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needleshould go in between every two threads. Making button-holes, requiresgreat care and attention. 

[Illustration]

FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH. --This resembles a very wide button-holestitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, where it has a verypretty appearance; likewise for the bands and the shoulder bits, andabove the broad hems and tucks of frocks. 

[Illustration]

CHAIN STITCH. --In making this stitch, you are to employ union cord, bobbin, or braid, whichever you think most suitable. Make a knot at theend, and draw it through to the right side. While you put in the needle, let the end hang loose, and bring it out below, so as to incline alittle towards the left hand. Pass your needle over the cord, as youdraw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, youmust be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroythe effect. You proceed in the same manner to form the next, and eachsucceeding loop; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, andrather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loopbegins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thusproduce the resemblance of a chain. 

[Illustration]

FANCY CHAIN STITCH. --The only difference between this and the commonchain stitch, is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needleat a time, and the stitches are far from each other. Its appearance willbe varied, according as you put in the needle, to slant little or much. If you should work it perfectly horizontal, it is the same asbutton-hole stitch. 

[Illustration]

HERRING-BONING. --This is generally employed in articles composed offlannel, or other thick material. The edge is to be cut even, and turneddown once. You work from left to right, thus: Put your needle into thematerial, and take a stitch of two or three threads, as close aspossible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that partwhich is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand;make another stitch, and bring down the needle; thus proceed until thework is finished. This stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish, and is sometimes used as an ornament for children's robes, and at thetop of hems. It looks both neat and elegant, when carefully executed. 

[Illustration]

FANCY HERRING-BONING. --This is the same as common herring-bone, only itis done in a perpendicular manner, instead of being worked horizontallyfrom left to right; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner. It has an exceedingneat and pleasing look, when it is well executed, and is considered ashighly ornamental, in appropriate situations. 

[Illustration]

ANGULAR STITCH. --This stitch resembles button-hole stitch, only it iscarried from right to left to form the pattern. It is a neat ornamentfor cuffs, skirts and capes, and children's pelisses. As much of itsbeauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make thepatterns very even and straight, and of an equal width; without dueattention to this, the work will be spoiled. 

[Illustration]

DOUBLE HERRING-BONING. --This pattern is a kind of double herring-bone, on each side; it is too intricate to describe minutely. The engravingwill give a better idea of this stitch than any description we couldgive. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it isadvisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it, to serve as aguide. 

[Illustration]

HORSE-SHOE STITCH. --This is done with thick, loosely-twisted cotton, orbobbin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanyingengraving. It has a very neat and pretty appearance, when worked nearthe edge of hems, robings, &c. 

[Illustration]

FANCY BOBBIN EDGING. --This is formed by a succession of loops made inthe following manner: Make a knot at the end, and put the needle throughto the right side, just below the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem, and, putting the needle in at the wrong side, bring it through to theright. Draw the loop to the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it, and commence the next stitch, proceeding as before. 

CHAIN STITCH, ON GATHERS. --This looks well, if worked in coloredworsted, or in cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, takingcare always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather onthe needle at the same time. 

[Illustration]

CORAL PATTERN. --This requires great accuracy in the working, and it isadvisable for the inexperienced to run lines, in long stitches, to fixthe middle and outsides of the pattern. It may be best understood by theengraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand, and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needletoward the centre. It is very suitable for the waist-bands of children'sfrocks, the tops of broad hems, &c. 

[Illustration]

SERPENTINE STITCH. --This is exceedingly pretty, and is much employed forchildren's dresses. It is worked with the hand, being sewn on to thematerial when made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at theend; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the front, to formanother loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin through theloop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cordso as to pass from the side of the work invariably towards the inner, orthat part next the work. 

[Illustration]

BIASSING. --In this operation, the first part of the stitch is the sameas gathering. You then stitch down; and upon the right side of thegather, you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used forgathering thread. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take holdalso of the gathering thread. The needle is always to be pointed towardyour chest. You may work two or three rows in this way, on the sleevesand shoulders of dresses, &c. , which has a handsome effect. You musttake great care to bring the needle out between each one of the gathers. 

[Illustration]

HONEY COMBING. --The material may be velvet, silk, &c. ; and the mode ofworking is as follows: The piece you intend honey-combing, must becreased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as possible. Then make the folds lie closely together, by tacking them with a strongthread, and in long stitches. You then take silk of the right color;stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds, andproceed, with each succeeding two, in the same manner, only taking thestitches in the intermediate spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternaterow will correspond together. Draw out the thread, when the work isfinished, and on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the rightside. This work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimesemployed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well, if carefullyexecuted. 

A perfect acquaintance with these various stitches, will enable thepractical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and pleasure. 

CHAPTER III. 

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 

INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN. 

In order to secure economy of time, labor, and expense, and also to doeverything neatly and in order, the lady who is intending to engage inthe domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal andfamily use, should be careful to have all her materials ready, anddisposed in the most systematic manner possible, before commencing work. The materials employed in the construction of articles, which come underthe denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere listof them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so wellknown, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shalltherefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any ladymay soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses, merely observing, that a neat work-box, well supplied with all theimplements required--including knife, scissors (of at least threesizes, ) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, indiarubber, &c. , should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key, to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children, servants, or unauthorized intruders. 

The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, implements, &c. , placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of which it is anadvantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of a screw, ) maycommence her work, and proceed with pleasure to herself, and withoutannoyance to any visitor, who may favor her with a call. We wouldrecommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made ofcedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into agarden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfumeof which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whosecircumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their timeto sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, atleast the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a fewcheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creatorintended all His children, in whatever station of life they might beplaced, to share in the common bounties of His providence; and when she, who not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, iscompelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from thecheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both herduty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of theseadvantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances ofthe case will admit. 

We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear thoughconcise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress andattire. 

APRONS. --These are made of a variety of materials, and are applied tovarious uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are made of white, blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, andprint, are also employed. The width is generally one breadth of thematerial, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. Dressaprons are, of course, made of finer materials--cambric, muslin, silk, satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c. , and are generally twobreadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam oneach side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of allkinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band orstock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottomwith a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sideslikewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; itslength is to be determined by the waist of the wearer. It should befastened at the back, with hooks and eyelet holes. To some aprons, pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at theback, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. The slit, oropening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be mostdesirable. In some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which areuseful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must bedetermined by the taste of the person who is to wear them. 

DRESS APRONS. --Take two breadths of any material you choose, dividingone of them in the middle. Hem all round, with a broad hem, three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a-half nailsdeep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted, on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. The band isscolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails, leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scollopedportion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible;leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds, byworking two rows of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of theband, leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of the bandis ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top. 

VANDYKE APRON. --This may be made either of silk or muslin. The edge ofthe apron is to be turned down, once all round, on the right side, tothe depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are formed byrunning from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of thematerial, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes arecompleted, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth aspossible. A braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right side, over thestitches, is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must beplaced opposite each other, so as to meet in the middle. You may linethe band with buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping ifyou please. 

APRON FOR A YOUNG PERSON. --Clear muslin is the best material. Hem roundwith a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem, a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. Of course, the lattermust be taken off before washing. 

A MORNING APRON. --This may be made like the last, but instead of theshawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimpedfrill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use, is jacconet orcambric muslin: the frill, of lawn or cambric, which you please. 

GIRL'S APRON. --Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is tobe made to fit the wearer, in front, between the shoulders, and slopingto the waist. The apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; andthe shoulder straps may be of the same material, or of ribbon. The bib, either plain or ornamented, with tucks or folds, as may be deemed mostsuitable. 

BATHING GOWN. --The materials employed are various, flannels, stuff, orcalamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water. The length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and thewidth at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. It should be foldedas you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nailsfor the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails andthree-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the lengthof the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of threeinches, in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom, and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tightwith strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm orwrist, in a similar manner. 

BUSTLES. --These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat uponthe person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nailsdeep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one fournails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admitof tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of eachflounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. When worn, the articleis turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, or calico. 

CAPS. --These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materialsare as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslinsof various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and calico, are all in request; andthe borders are extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being thosemost in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude usfrom giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her ownpattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns shouldbe cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, notto waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make thisdepartment familiar to the expert votaress of the needle. 

CHILD'S COLLAR. --This is made of double Irish linen, and is stitchedround and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached tothem, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children, ofeight or nine years of age. 

CRAVATS. --These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a halfhandkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut frommuslin, eighteen nails square. 

CLOAKS. --These useful and necessary articles of dress are generally madeup by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particulardirections concerning them. The materials are silks and stuffs, ofalmost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitationshawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used. Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in amuch plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks lookwell with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the samematerial. Merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, orvelvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectlyplain. The lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color, or else a well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the colorshould be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. Anattention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage tothe lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining eleganceof appearance with durability of wear, and economy of price. 

FRILLS. --These are used as ornaments, or a finish to various articles ofdress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c. , and the mannerin which they are made is various. Sometimes they are set on quiteplain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to thewidth required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and theedge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin; itis put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end. Crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. Theyare made of lawn or cambric, and sewed on to a band. The other edge ishemmed, and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band shouldbe half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly aspossible. 

GENTLEMEN'S BELTS. --These are worn by persons who have much and violentexercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean orother material, and sometimes of leather, and may either be madestraight, or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted, to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps ofwebbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. The straps areabout three inches in depth. 

GENTLEMEN'S COLLARS. --These are very generally worn, and are shaped in avariety of ways. They are made double, and ornamented with a single ordouble row of back stitch. They are made to button round the neck, orare set on to a band for that purpose. It is best to cut the pattern inpaper, and when a good fit is obtained, cut the cloth by the papermodel. 

GENTLEMEN'S FRONTS. --The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes thesides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A falsehem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; theneck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered intoa stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neckgussets are introduced. 

LADIES' DRAWERS. --Choose any proper material, and form the article bymaking two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. Set on aplain or worked frill at the bottom. When setting the legs on to theband, place them so as to overlap each other. The band is eleven nailslong, and three deep. 

LADIES' FLANNEL WAISTCOAT. --This is, in many cases, an indispensablearticle of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece offlannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, folding it exactly in themiddle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm holesmust be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. The front is to beslightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediatelyunder the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same inlength, and terminating in a point. Bosom-gores are also to beintroduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. They are to beput in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat, it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores andslits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of thefront, in which the button holes are made, and buttons set on; theshoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front. 

LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS. --The materials are various, including lawn, linen, and calico. The jackets are made of two breadths, and as it isdesirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two breadths should becut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. The neck is tobe slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and aslit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to passfreely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up, leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and the neck and bosom are to behemmed as neatly as possible. The sleeves are to be made the requiredlength, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled intothe arm holes mentioned above. A neat frill round the neck, bosom, andwrists, finishes the whole. 

NIGHT GOWNS. --These must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. Thefollowing are directions for three different sizes. The length of thegown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yardand six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for thethird; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteennails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a halfbreadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottomtwenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen, fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. The length of thesleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width half a breadth;they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square, and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemeddesirable. 

A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve, which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar aboutthree nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, inorder that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nailsquare, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made infront, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders isthree, two and a-half and two nails, respectively. The whole is finishedwith a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is anobject, cut three gowns together. This will prevent much waste ofmaterial; an object, by every head of a family, to be constantly kept inview. 

NECK AND POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS. --These are made of a great variety ofmaterials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neckhandkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. Itis a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it morestrong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes 'round the waist, andties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straightsides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to theirneck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance oflace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have aworked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than thoseof ladies. 

PETTICOATS (FLANNEL). --These are not only useful, but indispensablearticles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is most durable, andkeeps its color best in washing. The length of the petticoat isregulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended; and thewidth ranges from three breadths to one and a-half. The bottom is hemmedwith a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong bandof calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a buttonhole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to whichstrings of tape are attached; these are passed through the oppositeholes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle, which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of aboutfour nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound with astrong binding. 

PETTICOATS are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also tomake the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. They should havethree or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width, and thebottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks orworked muslin. The latter is extremely neat. They are to be set on to astrong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back aboutfour nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or onlyat the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all thefulness is thrown to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up thepetticoat, is a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist, or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case thebody should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. The bandis generally about one nail in breadth. The materials proper forpetticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca, stuff, &c. What are called middle, or under petticoats, are made in thesame manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursingtheir own infants, and who wear petticoats with bodies to them, havethem open in front. 

PINAFORE. --This is a useful article of dress, especially in largefamilies. Holland is the best material. For an open one, one breadth issufficient. Double the pinafore into four, and cut the arm holes to therequired depth in the two side folds, so that half will form the front. The neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle, and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band, which fastens by abutton behind. Sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes, beinggathered near the edge, and set on before the arm hole is hemmed, sothat when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear. The lappet isa second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast aspossible. Then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silkbraid that will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits isan advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round thewaist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is most to bepreferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Holland, or othermaterial, will be required. It is seamed up at the sides, leaving slitsfor the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to goround the middle of the wearer. Neck gussets may be introduced, but themuch neater way is, to double the pinafore into four, and let in a pieceat each shoulder, about a nail wide, and two nails in length, gatheringeach quarter from the arm holes, into the pieces so let in, and fellingsimilar pieces on the inside of the shoulder. The two middle quartersare to be gathered into half the collar, and the back in the samemanner. The sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gatheredinto the arm holes. A slit is made at the hands, and the bottom isgathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth. 

POCKETS. --These are made of any kind of material you please. You take apiece of double, and cut it to the shape required. Stitch the two piecesneatly round, a little distance from the edge. Then turn it, and let theseam be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of aninch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to beeither hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on thestrings, and the pocket is complete. Some ladies have pockets attachedto the petticoat. In that case, it is only a square of calico, about tennails long, and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, asplain as possible. 

A RIBBON SCARF. --This is made of broad satin ribbon, and must not beless than two nails and a half wide: its length is two yards and threequarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in aslanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. Theends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, asmay suit the fancy. The scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan'sdown. This is an elegant article of female attire. 

PLAIN SCARF. --This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and twoyards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as toadmit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a neat and finishedappearance. 

AN INDIAN SCARF. --This is an elegant article of dress and can be easilymade. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors are required:that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You must have the scarffour nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length:this must be black. Then you must have of the other two colors, piecesseven nails long, and the same width as the black, and you are, afterfinding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail anda half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of thescarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of theblack previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from themiddle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarletstripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of theother, as accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together areto be sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken tomake the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces fast together, and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You finish by layinga neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of aclear, bright color. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue, to correspond with the two half stripes. This is suitable for a walkingdress, or an evening party. 

A DRESS SHAWL. --Take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satinvelvet or plush, which you please, and line it with sarcenet eitherwhite, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silkor satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crossway. Or you may trim it with fur, lace, or fringe. 

CASHMERE SHAWL. --You will require for the centre a piece of coloredCashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed round with anarrow hem. You must then take four stripes all of Cashmere, or of ashawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, whichmust be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitchesmay appear as little as possible. The border should be three nailsbroad, and of course joined point to point at the corners; and it mustbe so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over eachother. The shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimesby a colored gimp laid on over the joinings. 

A LADY'S WALKING SHAWL. --This may be made of cloth, merino, or silk; andeither a whole, or half square, at pleasure. The dimensions are one yardand twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. In order that when theshawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time, care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides, to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. Thetrimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety. 

A TRAVELLING SHAWL. --This is easily made, and is very warm andconvenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover itwith muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please. 

MOURNING SHAWLS. --These may be made either of half a square of blacksilk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, oryou may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, andborder it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the twostraight sides of the shawl. 

SHIFTS. --These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. They aremade either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the neatest method. Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cutoff a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order towiden the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams;then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at thetop and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join thenarrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slitfor the arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back andbosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case, the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladieshollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cuteither straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Anothermethod of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separatefrom the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are thenlet in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frillgives a neat finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plainor full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve andgusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. In allcases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste thematerial. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several atone time. Shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age, are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedlythe neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmedwith a broad hem. 

SHIRTS. --These are generally made of linen; but calico is also made useof. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation andstation of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care, make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. In cutting, you must takea shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measurethe length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut offthe other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders, gussets, &c. , measuring by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars, &c. , must be fitted, and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suitsthe person for whom the articles are intended. 

In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the frontflap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off the spaces forthe length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. The bosom-slitis five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. Thespace for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makesthe sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, andthe wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadthsare so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders, or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and thesleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one;and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches, introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c. , are to be regulatedaccording to the taste of the maker, or the wearer. 

Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they arelarger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which iscalled shirting-width. Where a smaller size is required, a long stripwill cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders, wristbands, &c. 

VEILS. --These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked, as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace:mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet-black is to be preferred, as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. Colored veilslook well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, puton as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a light color ispreferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, ishemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest. All veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones arefrequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables thewearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the secondstring round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes fromthe sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cooland refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled all round thebonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. Itis advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leavethem the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to appearunsightly and slovenly. 

CHAPTER IV. 

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 

INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN. 

BED-ROOM LINEN. --This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow covers, towels, table covers, and pincushion covers. 

QUILTS. --These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance withthe purposes to which they are to be applied. They are generally made ofthe outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laidbetween, ) and stitched in diamonds or other devices. The stitches mustpass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured bya binding proper for the purpose. They are best done in a frame. 

BLANKETS. --These are bought ready prepared for use. It is sometimesadvisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done withscarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch. 

SHEETS. --These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and calico. Linensheets are in general to be preferred. The seam up the middle must besewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed:the latter is the preferable method. Sheets, and all bed-room linen, should be marked and numbered. To add the date of the year is also anadvantage. 

PILLOW COVERS. --These are made of fine or coarse linen, and sometimesof calico. The material should be of such a width as to correspond withthe length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamedup, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed witha broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons, as is deemed mostconvenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is toprocure a material of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit thepillow. The selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed andhemmed, as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the samemanner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape slot is runinto the other. 

TOWELS. --Towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a quality adaptedto the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long, and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and arefringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tapeloop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall. 

DRESSING TABLE COVERS. --These may be made of any material that is properfor the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslinare employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quiltingwhich is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers aremerely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or borderedwith a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. Alldepends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance inaccordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especiallyregarded. 

PINCUSHION COVERS. --A large pincushion, having two covers belonging toit, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag intowhich the cushion is slipped. They may be either worked or plain, andshould have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe allround. 

TABLE LINEN. --This department of plain needlework comprises tablecloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins. 

TABLE CLOTHS. --These may be purchased either singly or cut from thepiece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly aspossible. 

DINNER NAPKINS. --These are of various materials; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large andsmall tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty andlight employment for very young ladies; and in this way habits ofneatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found verybeneficial in after life. 

PANTRY LINEN. --In this department you will have to prepare pantrycloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass, and lampcloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong anddurable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and areuseful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; butsome ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. The platebasket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket toprevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made oflinen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shapeof the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made tohang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into aslit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to bemade of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaninglamps, &c. , must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles areto be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; orif there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothinglooks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are fordomestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed bythe more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitableremuneration be given them. They would thus become more sensible of thevalue of time, and would contract habits of industry, which would be ofessential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progressthrough life. A fair price paid for work done, either by a child or anadult, is far preferable to what is called charity. It at once promotesindustry, and encourages a spirit of honest independence, which is farremoved from unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneakingservility. Benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman; and we hope thatall our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence willseek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share ofthe comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts andtalents, with which Providence may have endowed them. 

HOUSEMAID AND KITCHEN LINEN. --The next subject to which the attention ofthe votress of plain needlework ought to be directed, is the preparationof housemaid and kitchen linen. On these subjects, a very few generalobservations will be all that is necessary. In the housemaid'sdepartment, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fineand soft, are to be provided. To these must be added, dusters, flannelsfor scouring, and chamber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kindand color different from any thing else. All these must be neatly hemmedand run, or seamed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed familyshould bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidyappearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, oftwo yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case onlyone seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag moresuitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to seamed upneatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at thetop. The best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. Inthe kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths;which should be made as neat as possible. Long towels, of good linen, and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers; they aregenerally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. Theyshould be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends should be securedstrongly and neatly together. If the selvage is bad, the best way is tohem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea cloths, and knife cloths, may bemade of any suitable material; but in all cases let the edges be turneddown, and neatly sewed or overcast. 

PUDDING CLOTH. --This should be made of coarse linen, neatly hemmedround, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked. 

JELLY BAG. --This is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form ahalf square. The top must be hemmed, and be furnished with three loops, by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use. 

Some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise beintroduced, are to be found in the concluding chapter. 

CHAPTER V. 

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 

MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS. 

BINDING. --Various kinds of work have binding set on to them inpreference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. Flannel is generally bound; sometimes with a thin tape, made for thatpurpose, and called "flannel binding. " It is also common to bind flannelwith sarcenet ribbon. The binding is so put on, as to show but littleover the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on theother side, it is run on with small stitches. 

BRAIDING. --Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety ofpurposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out ofthe braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be lessperceived. 

MARKING. --It is of essential importance that cloths should be marked andnumbered. This is often done with ink, but as some persons like to markwith silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be takeneach way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, inorder that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from theperson, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: andthe third is the reverse of the first, that is, aslant from you towardthe left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of thestitch, nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the lettersor figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler. 

PIPING. --This is much used in ornamenting children's and other dresses. It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a stripe ofsilk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly as possible. 

PLAITING. --The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them, one against another. In double plaiting they lie both ways, and meet inthe middle. 

TUCKS. --These require to be made even. You should have the breadth ofthe tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. They lookthe best run on with small and regular stitches. You must be careful totake a back-stitch constantly, as you proceed. 

MAKING BUTTONS. --Cover the wire with a piece of calico, or othermaterial of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work roundthe wire in button-hole stitch; work the centre like a star. 

Some may think that we have been too minute; but we were desirous toomit nothing that could be generally useful; and we have had regard alsoto those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plainneedlework in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articlesfor their humbler fellow creatures, or by the sale of which, theyprocure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have goodreason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, inthis way, to aid the cause of humanity--and to devote a portion of theirleisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence--butthey are destitute of the practical experience necessary to enable themto do so. To all such, we hope our little manual will be an acceptableoffering, and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means andtalents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying ofthe wise man, "There is that scattereth and yet increaseth. "

DIAGRAM. 

 ___________________________________________________ | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 |100 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| |101 |102 |103 |104 |105 |106 |107 |108 |109 |110 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| |111 |112 |113 |114 |115 |116 |117 |118 |119 |120 | ---------------------------------------------------

In order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work as easyof acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following diagram; any ladywill thus be able to form the various stitches, by simply taking a pieceof canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessaryto form a square like the diagram; she will perceive the linesrepresent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being theholes formed by the intersection of the threads; and following thedirections given in the accompanying chapter, she will soon be able towork any patterns here exhibited, and such new ones as her inventivegenius may lead her to design. 

CHAPTER VI. 

FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 

The Art of Fancy Needlework is closely allied to the sister ones ofPainting and Design; and appears to have been well understood amongstthe most polished nations of antiquity. We know that the art waspractised with considerable success, by the Babylonians, Egyptians, Persians, and Arabians, as well as by the Greeks and Romans. The Jewsbrought the art of needlework with them, out of Egypt, as we learn fromthe directions for building the Tabernacle, and preparing the holygarments; and Sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broideredcloths, in which part of her extensive traffic consisted. In more moderntimes, we find the fair hands of the ladies of Europe employed indepicting the events of history, in tapestry, of which the muchcelebrated Bayeux tapestry--supposed to have been wrought by Matilda, the beloved wife of William the Norman--detailing the variousoccurrences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to thefatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high rankemployed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to thereformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in thoseages, when it has been required for the adornment of the temples, andthe encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated withthe sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it hasflourished most. [64-*] Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I. ; Ann, queen ofFrance; Catherine, of Aragon; Lady Jane Grey; Mary Queen of Scots; andQueen Elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. At theReformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly todecline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the presentcentury. At that time, a new and elevated development of mind began toappear, which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in everydepartment of arts and sciences. This revival of the fine arts, like themental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, was oftenin extremely bad taste; but as the latter becomes more purified andexalted, the former advances in improvement--mind asserts itssuperiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and ornamental, aliving spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. The year1800 gave to the world, the celebrated Berlin patterns; but it was notuntil a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became generallyappreciated; but now, such is the perfection attained in the cultivationof the art of needlework, that some of its productions, for delicacy andexpression, may almost bear comparison with painting in oil. 

[Illustration]

TENT STITCH. --Work the cross way of the canvas, bringing your needle upthrough the diagram, No. 2 down 11, one stitch; up 3 down 12, up 4 down13, and so continue to the end. This stitch is proper for grounding, andfor groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the besteffect if the flowers are done in tent stitch, and the grounding intent cross stitch (which is the same as tent stitch, only crossed. )

[Illustration]

CROSS STITCH. --Is the same as marking stitch; bring your needle up 21down 3, up 23 down 1, one stitch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and socontinue till your work is finished. All the stitches must incline tothe right, or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly. 

[Illustration]

DOUBLE CROSS STITCH. --This is a stitch very easy of execution. Bringyour needle up No. 41, over four threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one stitch. Four, six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, accordingas taste may suggest. This is an admirable stitch for large pieces ofwork. Gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition toits attractive beauty. 

[Illustration]

STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH. --This is a new invention, and has a prettyappearance. Bring your needle up No. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, onestitch; up 31 down 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till thework is finished. 

[Illustration]

DOUBLE STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH. --Bring your needle up No. 3 down 43, up 21down 25, up 14 down 32, up 12 down 34, one stitch. Owing to the numberof times the wool is crossed, each stitch has a very bead-likeappearance. A piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable effect. 

[Illustration]

GOBELIN STITCH. --This truly beautiful stitch is especially calculatedfor working on canvas traced with flowers, leaves, &c. ; and also forworking designs, copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle up No. 2down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the end ofthe row. The stitches may be taken either in height or width, as maybest accord with the taste, or with the subject represented. 

[Illustration]

BASKET STITCH. --This is the same as Irish stitch, but the arrangement isdifferent. Work three stitches over two threads; these are called shortstitches; and then the long ones are formed by working three over sixthreads, the centre of which are the two on which the short stitcheswere worked. Thus you must continue the short and long stitchesalternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the longstitches must come under the short ones; and this diversity must be keptup until all the rows are completed. To finish the pattern, you haveonly to run a loose film of wool under the long stitches on each of theshort ones, and the task is done. 

[Illustration]

IRISH STITCH. --This is the production of an Irish lady of high rank. Bring your needle up No. 1 over four threads down 41, one stitch backtwo threads, up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line with 41)down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down41, continuing thus over the square. The spaces left between every otherstitch must be filled up with half stitches; for instance, up 81 down101, up 83 down 103. It is also sometimes worked covering six and eightthreads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, inthe same proportion as the directions given. This stitch is proper forgrounding, when the design is worked in tent or cross stitch; and theeffect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the samecolor. It can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds andvandykes for example, and many others which will suggest themselves tothe fair votaries of this delightful art. It looks pretty, and is easyof execution. 

[Illustration]

FEATHER STITCH. --This, as its name implies, has a light and featheryappearance, and will be found proper for any work in which lightnessshould predominate. You must proceed as in tent stitch, and work overtwelve threads or less, but not more; then bring your needle out onethread below, and cross on each side of your straight stitch: you mustso continue, taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping thebottom even with the long stitch with which you began. Thus proceeduntil you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: ofcourse you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary tocomplete the row. You can vary the pattern considerably by making theedges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant stitches, thefirst one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, inour opinion, improve the appearance of the work. You can introduce asmany shades as you please, only taking care that a proper contrast isduly preserved. You finish by stitching up the centre of each row on asingle thread. For this purpose, silk or gold thread may be introducedwith advantage. It should be remarked, that each row must be worked thecontrary way to the one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrowportions may meet and blend with each other. 

[Illustration]

POINT STITCH. --To work this stitch, take four threads straight way ofthe canvas, and bring the needle three steps up, and so proceed untilyour point is of a sufficient depth. This stitch looks pretty, worked indifferent and well contrasted shades, and may be applied to many usefuland ornamental purposes. 

[Illustration]

QUEEN STITCH. --Work over four threads in height and two in width, crossing from right to left, and back again. Finish each row by a stitchacross, between them, taking a thread of each, and, of course, workingupon two threads. This is a very neat stitch. 

[Illustration]

QUEEN'S VANDYKE. --This is supposed to be the invention of PrincessClementina, one of the daughters, we believe of a king of France. Taketwelve threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the length and breadthare in conformity. It can be introduced into a variety of work, andlooks well. 

[Illustration]

SINGLE PLAIT STITCH. --Pass the needle across the canvas through twothreads, from right to left; you then cross four threads downward, andpass the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant, and again pass over four threads, always working downward, and passingthe needle from right to left, across two threads, until the row iscompleted as far as you desire. 

[Illustration]

DOUBLE PLAIT STITCH. --This stitch is from left to right across fourthreads aslant downward, and crossed from right to left, the needlepassing out at the left, in the middle of the four threads just crossed, and so continue working downward, until you have finished the pattern. 

VELVET STITCH. --This is a combination of cross stitch and queen stitch, and is very ornamental when properly done. You work in plain crossstitch three rows, then leave three threads, and again work three rowsas before; thus proceed until your canvas is covered, leaving threethreads between every triple row of cross stitch. Then across the rowswork in queen stitch with double wool; but instead of taking twodistinct threads for each stitch, you may take one thread of thepreceding stitch; this will give an added thickness to your work. Itwill be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment, asdoing so will make it better to cut. If you work it in squares, theyshould not be larger than seventeen stitches; and to look well, theymust each be placed the contrary way to the other. 

ALGERINE WORK. --This work much resembles a Venetian carpet, but isfiner; it looks best done in very small patterns. It is worked overcotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners; the stitches areover three threads. Your work as in raised work, putting the colors inas you come to them, and counting three stitches in width, as one stitchwhen you are working Berlin pattern. The paper canvas is No. 45 and thecord No. 00. It is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work. 

TO FILL UP CORNERS. --Work in any stitch you prefer and shade inaccordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental borders, &c. , there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. In allthat, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothingis lost by taking time to think. However trivial and unimportant ouractions may be, they should always be preceded by mature deliberation. Ahabit of thought once established will remain through life, and protectits possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions, and theagonies of remorse and unavailable repentance. 

FOOTNOTES:

[64-*] The presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark ofapproval in the ages of chivalry. 

CHAPTER VII. 

FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS. 

[Illustration]

THE BEAUFORT STAR. --This is a beautiful pattern, and will look well, asa centre, for any moderately-sized piece of work. Begin on the width ofthe canvas, and take twelve threads, reducing at every stitch, onethread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and increasingalternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row. Thenext row is performed in the same manner, only you work on the long wayof the canvas. Introduce gold or silver thread between where thestitches join, and so finish. 

[Illustration]

CHESS PATTERN. --Work a square in cross stitch, with three stitches, making three of a dark shade and six of white, working as many squaresas you require, and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by crossstitch, which you must fill up with Irish stitch, working across thecanvas. You can employ any color that will harmonize well with the crossstitch; and to complete the pattern, you must work a single stitchacross each square, in Irish stitch. 

DICE PATTERN. --This is formed by working rows of eight stitches, in anycolor you please. You must here have four shades, and work two stitchesin each shade. Commence a stitch, over ten threads, and drop one eachtime, until you have taken eight stitches; the intermediate spaces arefor the ground, which must contrast with the pattern; and theintroduction of a little gold or silver thread, would be an improvement. 

[Illustration]

DOUBLE DIAMOND, IN LONG STITCH. --This pattern, when it is worked in twocolors strongly contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, isexceedingly beautiful. The shades of scarlet and blue, on a white orblack ground, produce the most agreeable effect. 

[Illustration]

GERMAN PATTERN. --There is a Gothic grandeur and sobriety about thispattern which gives to it a noble and grave aspect. It is worked inIrish stitch, six threads straight down the second row, falling aboutfour stitches below the first; the third, the same below the second; thefourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three thesame; and then six in the same proportion. You then increase, and sorender the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of aGothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as toproduce the best effect: those for the first and last row must be of thesame tint; and the same rule applies to all the rest. A lady can, ofcourse, choose her own colors; but care must be had to blend thealternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony. 

[Illustration]

IRISH DIAMOND. --This is beautiful, and is very easy of execution. Commence with two threads, and increase to fourteen, working across thecanvas, and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in thesame manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. Begin the nextrow two threads down the canvas, and place a gold or steel bead in thecentre of each diamond. Finish with a bordering of gold twist, or motherof pearl. 

[Illustration]

LACE. --This is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of execution. The recognized material is a black Chantilly silk. It is mostly workedfrom Berlin patterns, and may be done either in cross stitch, or instraight stitch pattern: the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool. You may imitate a pearl border, by taking two threads directly behindthe border. It is used for sofa pillows, &c. , to which it forms a verypretty termination indeed. 

HEART PATTERN. --This pattern looks well. Pass the wool over ten threadsin the centre, then make four additional stitches of ten threads, dropping one each time from the top, and taking one up at the bottom;then take the sixth stitch, dropping a thread at the top as before, butkeeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch; your seventh stitch mustbe in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and yourlast will be on two threads, worked in the same manner: then proceed toform the other half of the pattern. The hearts may be worked in variousshades of the same color, and the space between them is to filled upwith a diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl. 

[Illustration]

PRINCESS ROYAL. --Work this in rows of stitches over four and two threadsalternately, leaving one thread between each stitch: begin the next rowtwo threads down, with a stitch over two threads, and proceed as before. Work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in the vacancies withgold or pearl beads. 

ROMAN PATTERN. --The material to be used, in working the pattern, ispurse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent stitch. The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; thecentre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, then the next, andlastly the darkest to form a broad outline. This kind of work is donequickly, and presents a rich appearance. 

[Illustration]

RUSSIAN PATTERN. --This is worked in rows across the canvas, in stitchesof irregular lengths, and has a pleasing effect. Pass the first stitchover sixteen threads, the second over twelve, the third over sixteen, and so proceed to the seventh row, which is the centre. Pass the stitchover eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a spaceof four threads, and commence as at first. Form the second row in thesame manner, leaving four threads between the longest stitches in eachrow: the rows may be worked in any number of shades, taking care topreserve uniformity, and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond, worked in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color; or itmay be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the monotonousappearance of the pattern. It will be best to begin and finish each rowwith a half diamond. 

[Illustration]

VICTORIA PATTERN. --Pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch over sixthreads, the next over five, and so proceed to the corner, which will beon one thread; the other side must be done in a different shade, but thesame color, and the shades of each must be turned alternately theopposite way. The corner stitch should be of some brilliant coloredsilk, if not of gold thread: the top of one square will be the bottom ofanother, and you work the three stitches between the corners in black ordark wool. The squares must be filled in with long stitch, working fromcorner to corner, across the canvas. 

WAVE PATTERN. --These are extremely beautiful, when worked in four orfive shades. They are done in Irish stitch, and the rows must be workedclose together, the wool is passed over six threads, and the rowsdropped a few threads below each other, so as to form a wave. Thepattern may be varied almost infinitely; the following forms a beautifulspecimen: work six rows of any length you choose, dropping one stitch atthe top and adding one to the bottom of each row; then proceed upwards, for six rows, and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventhrow forming the centre; then work nine rows, of which the first, third, fifth seventh, and ninth, must be level with the second row of thepointed wave; and the second, fourth, sixth, and eight, must be on alevel with the first and last rows, while the first, third, fifth, seventh, and ninth, must drop two stitches, so as to produce anirregular edge; then work a pointed wave, as before, and the pattern iscomplete. 

[Illustration]

WINDSOR PATTERN. --In working this pattern, you must count eight threadsdown the canvas, and then increase one each way, until you have twelve, so as to form a diamond of six sides. The second row must be begun withtwelve threads, so as to join the longest stitch in the former row. Wheneach row is finished, the intersectional diamonds must be filled in;which may be done either in silk or gold thread, and has an extremelyneat appearance. 

SUGGESTIONS AS TO PATTERNS. 

For bottle-stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are verybeautiful. The materials proper for working them, are silk and wool, with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread or twist. Forfoundations, you may use either velvet or silk canvas. 

Small sprigs are pretty, for work that is not too large; chenille isproper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in silk; afew gold beads add to the effect. 

For large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, and producea good impression on the eye; the outline is to be traced in brilliantsilk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same color, workinghalf in each shade; the medallion should be placed upon a white field, and the whole grounded in a dark color, which harmonizes well with thedesign of the pattern. 

Bags may be worked in a variety of ways, to suit taste and convenience. The border is often made to resemble black lace, and when properlyexecuted, looks extremely well. The parts filled up, should be worked inblack floss or black wool. Leaves may be worked with gold twist, orbeads may be employed. The grounding should be in fine twisted silk: anycolor may be used. In other cases, white wool, white silk, silver andglass beads, and several other materials are in requisition; so thathere is ample scope for classification and arrangement. A mourning baglooks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, andornamented with black glass and silver beads, disposed in a tasteful andornamental style. Sometimes a bag is worked as a shield of four squares;in such a case, two squares should be worked in feather stitch, and theothers in any stitch that will form a pleasing contrast: the bordershould be a simple, but elegant lace pattern. 

For braces and bracelets, any small border pattern may be adopted. Theyshould be worked in two colors, highly contrasted, for bracelets: goldtwist round the edge is a great addition. 

These suggestions in reference to patterns, might have been greatlyextended; but we wish every young lady to draw upon the resources of herown mind, and to think for herself. To one, who is desirous to excel, wehave said enough; a little thought will enable her to apply the generalprinciples, here laid down, to any particular case; and, without theemployment of the thinking faculty, the most minute instructions, inthis or any other art, would fail in producing their intended effects. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY. 

EMBROIDERY WITH SILK. --The materials used as foundations, are various, embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed inworking is purse silk, deckers, half twist, and floss; but floss is mostin request. 

Embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot be done wellon the hand, except in very small pieces. The same careful attention toshades, before recommended, is necessary here; for small flowers two orthree shades are sufficient; but in roses and others, that are large, five shades are in general required; the darker shades should be workedinto the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work themin French knots, )[79-*] and thence proceed with the lighter, until youcome to the lightest, which forms the outline. The pattern must becorrectly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves you must beginwith the points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with ashade more dark: you may soften the blending, by working each shade up, between the stitches of the preceding shade. Three, or at most fourshades, are sufficient for the leaves: the introduction of more wouldinjure the effect. 

CHENILLE EMBROIDERY. --Is very beautiful for screens, &c. , but must notbe used for any work that is liable to pressure. Choose a needle aslarge as can be conveniently used, and be careful not to have thelengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working. For flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be too near. Thechenille must pass through the material freely, so as not to draw it. Itlooks well done in velvet, with occasional introductions of gold andsilver thread. 

RAISED EMBROIDERY. --Draw the pattern on the material as before. Work theflowers, &c. , to the height required, in soft cotton, taking care thatthe centre is much higher than the edges. A careful study of nature isindispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work. Pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, onlyworking them much closer. The most striking effect is produced when theflowers or animals are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. Much inthis, as in every department of this charming art, must depend upon thetaste and judgment--correct or otherwise--of the fair artist. A servilecopyist will never attain to excellence. 

EMBROIDERY IN WOOL. --This is proper for any large piece of work. Therules for shading embroidery with silk apply here; only the work mustnot be quite so thick on the material; care must also be taken to bringthe wool through on the right side, as near as possible to where itpasses through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, whichwould occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from theframe. When finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to dampthe back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron onthe wrong side. This kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting ofvarious articles of dress, on which, when judiciously placed, it has apleasing effect. 

PATTERNS. --This is a part of fancy needlework to which too muchattention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. We want to seenative genius developed, and we are convinced that many a fair one couldincrease our stock of patterns, with new and surprising conceptions, ifshe could but be induced to make the trial. To draw patterns forembroidery or braid work, get a piece of cartridge paper, and havingdrawn out the design, trace it off upon tissue paper, or which isbetter, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find iteasy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run onehole into another. Lay the paper so prepared upon the material which youintend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may gothrough the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if thematerial be dark, take a camel's hair pencil, and paint the marks with amixture of white lead and gum water; or if you prefer it, you can tracethe marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead pencil, but the othermethods are preferable. A little practice and perseverance will enableyou to became tolerably proficient in this department, and confer uponyou the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits ofuntiring diligence, which are so essential to the attainment of anyobject. Ever recollect, that anything worth doing at all, is worth doingwell. 

FOOTNOTES:

[79-*] This applies especially to the working of dahlias: begin with thecentre knot and work round it as many as are required. 

CHAPTER IX. 

FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

PREPARATION OF FRAMES. 

This is a subject which must be carefully attended to, or muchunnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence. 

TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CROSS STITCH. --The canvas must be hemmed neatlyround: then count your threads, and place the centre one exactly in themiddle of the frame. The canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws orpegs will permit; and if too long, should be wrapped round the poleswith tissue paper, to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms, asthat is essential to the beauty of the work. It must in all cases berolled _under_, or it will occasion much trouble in the working. Whenplaced quite even in the frame, secure by fine twine passed over thestretchers, and through the canvas very closely; both sides must betightened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will bespoiled. 

TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CLOTH WORK. --Stretch your cloth in the frame astight as possible, the right side uppermost. 

The canvas on which you intend to work, must be of a size to correspondwith the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth, to which it is to be secured as smooth as possible. When the work isfinished the canvas must be cut, and the threads drawn out, first oneand then the other. It is necessary to be especially careful in working, not to split the threads, as that would prevent them drawing, and wouldspoil the appearance of the work. In all cases, it is advisable to placethe cloth so as that the nap may go downward. In working bouquets offlowers, this rule is indispensable. 

The patterns for cloth work should be light and open. It looks well forsofas, arm chairs, &c. , but is by no means so durable as work done withwool, entirely on canvas. 

TO DRESS A FRAME FOR TENT STITCH. --Prepare the frame, and brace thecanvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining thecontrary way to that in which you slant your stitch. This is necessary, as tent stitch always twists a little. This method will cause the work, when taken out of the frame, to appear tolerably straight. Should itafter all be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a squareboard, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as tobecome perfectly straight. The back of the work should then be slightlybrushed over with isinglass water, taking care not to let the liquidcome through to the right side. A sheet of paper must be placed betweenthe work and the board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid uponit, and the whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or thebrilliancy of the colors will be destroyed. 

Some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly improper, and should never be resorted to. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING. 

ARMORIAL BEARINGS. --Work the arms and crest in silk, as brilliancy isthe thing here principally required. It will be proper that the scrollshould be worked in wool. The contrast will have a pleasing effect. 

APPLIQUE. --This is a very beautiful kind of work. The material may beeither silk, or cloth, or any other fabric which may be preferred. Uponthis foundation, pieces of satin, velvet, &c. , are to be carefullytacked down; the pattern, leaves, flowers, &c. , must then be drawn, bothon the foundation, and the materials of which they are to be formed;after which, they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest mannerpossible. They are then to be braided with their own colors round theedges; you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves; workthe centre of leaves in a long stitch, and the kind of silk called pursesilk, and after braiding the centre of flowers--if single--work overthem with French knots, made by twining the silk twice round the needle, and passing it through the material. This kind of work, as covers fortables chairs, &c. , is very elegant, and has a good effect. 

BEAD WORK. --Use the canvas called bolting; and work two threads each wayon the slant, with china silk, taking especial care that the beads areall turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. Work thepattern with thick beads and ground with transparent ones. You must, inthis kind of work, have as few shades as possible. 

BRAID WORK. --Trace the pattern in the material, and proceed with thevarious shades, from the outline or lightest, to the darkest, till thewhole is completed. In this work only two shades are for leaves, andthree for flowers; make the points as sharp as possible, and in turningthe points, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn thebraid, and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place. Veinthe leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishing astaste may direct; and in fastening draw the braid through the material. The best instrument for this purpose is a chenille needle. In braid workand applique, only one stitch must be taken at a time, or else the workwill appear puckered. 

BRACES. --Work in silk canvas three inches broad, in silk or wool, in anypattern you prefer. 

GEM, OR SET PATTERNS. --For this kind of work, ground in black or darkwool, and work the patterns in silks, as distinct and bright aspossible, and with the utmost variety of colors. The beauty of theseproductions of the needle, depends chiefly upon their brilliant andgem-like appearance. 

GOBELIN. --If you work in coarse canvas, adopt the same contrast ofshades as you employ in cross stitch; if the material be fine, you mustshade as in tent stitch. 

GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS. --To ornament the dress of a father, brother, orhusband, must at all times be a pleasing employment for domesticaffection. For dress waistcoats, embroider satin, either in the form ofa wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, or in small sprigs; formorning, you may work in any pattern you prefer. Patterns of theCaledonian Clans are now much admired. 

LANDSCAPES. --These may be rendered extremely beautiful, if properlymanaged. The trees in front should be much lighter than those seen inthe back ground, and great care should be taken to prevent the latterhaving too blue a cast, as this renders them unharmonious, whencontrasted with the sky. Represent water by shades of a blue grey: thesky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled withclouds composed of varying tints of a white and a yellow drab. Ifmountains are seen in the distance, they should be of a grey lavendertint, and some living animal should, in nearly all cases, beintroduced. The presence of a cow, sheep, &c. , gives life and animationto the view. 

MOSAIC WORK. --If you work with wool, cut it into short lengths, anduntwist it. No wool can be procured sufficiently fine for this kind ofwork. If you work with silk, the finest floss is preferable to anyother: split silk would be found extremely inconvenient, and the workwould not look so well. Care must be taken that the shades are verydistinct, or they will appear jumbled and unsightly. It will also benecessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one flowerto another, as in that case the fastenings would become visible on theright side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. In working alandscape, some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, toavoid the trouble of working one. As a compliance with such advice wouldtend to foster habits of idleness, and thus weaken the sense of moralpropriety which should in all we do be ever present with us, as well asdestroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which flies from everyspecies of deception, we hope the fair votaries of this delightful artwill reject the suggestion with the contempt it merits. 

PATTERNS ON CANVAS. --Employ for canvas four or five shades, beginningwith the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter tint, till youcome to the lightest, following the distinction of contrast exhibited bythe Berlin patterns. If you wish to introduce silk into any part, itwill be best to work it in last. Be careful to avoid taking odd threads, if you work the pattern in cross stitch. 

PERFORATED CARD. --The needle must not be too large, or the holes will beliable to get broken. The smaller ones must be worked in silk: thelarger patterns may be done in either silk or wool. Sometimes theflowers are worked in Chenille, and the leaves in silk; this gives tocard cases, &c. , a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance. 

RUG BORDERING. --Use a wooden mesh, grooved, an inch and a quarter inwidth; pass the material over the mesh, and work in cross stitch: thematerial to be used, is what is called slacks, (a kind of worsted, )which must be six or eight times doubled. You must leave three threadsbetween each row, and not more than eight rows are required to completethe border. 

WIRE WORK. --For this work choose shades of a light in preference to adark color, and work with silk. If you employ both silk and wool, silkmust be used for the lighter shades, or the beauty of the work will beimpaired. Sponge the whole before commencing work. 

CHAPTER X. 

FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES. 

LACE. --This imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags, sofa pillows, &c. ; and also for ladies' work bags, to which it is bothornamental and becoming. 

PRINCESS ROYAL. --This pattern is especially proper for bags or smallstands. 

POINT STITCH, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, as wellas for bags of a considerable size. 

BASKET STITCH. --This kind of work is very elegant for flower, fruit, orwork baskets; or any other of an ornamental character. 

GERMAN PATTERN, is well adapted for slippers, as, when worked, it isfound to be very durable, and its appearance peculiarly fits it for thisapplication. 

EMBROIDERY, is of almost universal application: that with chenille ismuch used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a mostpleasing effect. Embroidery in wool is also much in use for the samepurpose. 

RUG BORDERINGS. --These may be considered as articles of domesticeconomy; and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor, or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter, or a sister, this kind of work is at all times, when properly executed, superior, considered merely as work, far superior to any similarproductions emanating from the loom. 

GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS AND BRACES. --By being able to perform this kindof work, it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer anelegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increasethe hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. This reason is amplysufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate thisdepartment of fancy needlework. 

WIRE WORK. --This is a lovely material for baskets, and various kinds ofornamental fabrications. 

WORKING FIGURES. --This delightful application of the needle may berendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes. By itthe sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted: thescenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or theportrait of a departed friend may be placed before us, as when bloomingin all the living lustre of angelic loveliness. Let this portion of theart be especially and assiduously cultivated. 

ARMORIAL BEARINGS. --These are proper for screens, and may be made of ahigh moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardentdesire to become acquainted with the events of history, and with theactions and principles of former times. 

MOSAIC WORK, AND PERFORATED CARD. --These are used for note books, ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and a variety of otheruseful purposes. 

BRAID WORK. --The application of this kind of work is well known, and isso general, that no particular cases need be pointed out. 

APPLIQUE. --This is very elegant, as employed for table covers, sofas, chairs, &c. ; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever it isapplied it has a pleasing effect. 

STAR PATTERNS, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, or any pieceof work that is small. 

MEDALLION PATTERN. --Where the work is coarse, or large, these may beintroduced with good effect; but especial attention must be paid to aproper combination of colors and shades. 

CHAPTER XI. 

FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 

INSTRUCTIONS IN GROUNDING. --Care must be taken in grounding to make theeffect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you ground in dark colors, your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint; forthose in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensible. The canvas for white grounding should be white; and if for darkgrounding, a striped fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimesappear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rubover the surface with a little Indian ink water previous to commencingworking, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into theedges of the work, and it must be quite dry before you commencegrounding. A camel's hair brush is best for this purpose. In working incross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right toleft across the canvas, and then back again. This is preferable tocrossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance tothe work. 

If you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance will beuneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases begin to go round fromthe centre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off as you finishwith each needleful, which should not be too long, as the wool isliable to get rough and soiled. It is also necessary to have themirregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming together whichthey will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. Forworking in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have morethan fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have acanvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former, you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool;in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. Following thiscalculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required forany piece of work; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at thesame time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades. An attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient inthe grounding department of the art. 

WORKING FIGURES. --This is at once one of the most difficult, and at thesame time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancyneedlework will have to perform; they generally produce the best effectwhen worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold andsilver beads. The hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch; andthe face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch; working four of the latterfor one of the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c. , isno easy task; but it _must_ be carefully attended to, as almost thewhole beauty of the work depends upon it. The shades in these parts ofthe figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the featuresthe perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery alsodemands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the background should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper prominencemay be given to the figure: this object will be aided considerably byworking in the lighter shades in silk: any representation of water or ofpainted glass, should be worked in the same material. The intention ofthe fair worker should be to give to her performance as near anapproximation to oil painting as possible. 

RAISED WORK. --This should be done with German wool, as it more nearlyresembles velvet. For working flowers, you must have two meshes, one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked ingobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one mesh out, until you havecompleted the next row. You work across the flowers; and in order tosave an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, takingcare not to get the various shades mixed together. This is more needful, as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencinganother. When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, witha pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower intoits proper form. 

For working animals or birds, you must have three meshes; the first, onequarter; and the third, one seventh of an inch: the second must be amedium between these two. You will require the largest for the breast, and the upper parts of the wings. Cross stitch may be employed inworking the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You may workleaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancymay direct. You may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from Berlinpattern; but the latter is decidedly to be preferred. 

WORKING BERLIN PATTERNS. --For these patterns, it will be necessary towork in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as youmay desire the work to be a larger, or of the same size as the pattern:and, it must be borne in mind, that all the patterns are drawn for tentstitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it thesame size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas, for ten on the paper. The choice of colors, for these patterns, is amatter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade, ifsudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. Anatural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can, aloneproduce the desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades willbe required: in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almostindispensible; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre, then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from it, and the next four to the lightest tint; the whole, to be so managed, asto give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which its positionin the design demands. For small flowers, so many shades are rarelynecessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft;this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony oftints, which is so indispensible. You must recollect, that for work donein tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for thatdone in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. Aproper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kindsof green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose;Saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c. ; French green, foriris, marigold, narcissus, &c. ; and for poppies, tulips, &c. ; a willowgreen, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally; andfor leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is properto work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light:the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; thenext two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the third; and thefifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves bedistinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darkerthan those upon which the light falls; and if of a color having a bluishtint, a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. The stalks ofroses, &c. , should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green. Whiteflowers are often spoilt, by being worked of too dark a shade; if you donot work with silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, byusing Moravian cotton and white wool; these combined with three shadesof light stone color--the second two shades darker than the first, andthe third darker than the second, in the same proportions--will producea beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, by leaves of theproper tints, will have a most beautiful appearance. The lighter partsof all flowers, in Berlin patterns, may be worked in silk; and in manycases that is a decided improvement; but it should never be introducedin the leaves; here it would be out of place. We again repeat, beware ofservile copying: try to engage your own judgment in this work, and, remember, that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one ofthe most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain. 

We have now, we trust, placed before the young student of fancyneedlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to the art, as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowedupon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful employment. Withone or two additional remarks, we will conclude this portion of ourlabors. The young votary of the needle must recollect that, if sheallows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attentionfrom the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedlywrong and had far better never learn it at all. Another thing to beespecially guarded against, is, not to devote too much time to this, orany other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to aserious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it neverfor a moment be forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, ifyou wish to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. Again, take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of yourpursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship, benevolence, or duty. The young lady who can forget her moral anddomestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, gives butlittle promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages of life. 

Let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements. 

Cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in paper, writing the color on each, and numbering them according to their shades, 1, 2, 3, &c. , beginning with the darkest. 

Dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble orinconvenience, and use every possible care to prevent your work frombeing spoiled in the performance. 

We advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting anddesign; and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high andmoral development of the heart, and of the character. 

CHAPTER XII. 

KNITTING. 

EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 

Before entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter, we wish tomake a few remarks; which, we trust, will be acceptable to our fairreaders. 

The art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the Spanish;and would doubtless form, in connection with needlework, an agreeablerelaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movementswhich made up, for the most part, the lives of the ancient femalenobility of that peninsula. The Scotch also lay claim to the invention, but we think upon no sufficient authority. Knitted silk-hose were firstworn in England by Henry VIII. , and we are told that a present of a pairof long knitted silk stockings, of Spanish manufacture, was presented tothe young prince (Edward VI. ), by Sir Thomas Gresham, and was graciouslyreceived, as a gift of some importance. Clumsy and unsightly cloth-hosehad been previously worn: and, though we are told by Howel, that QueenElizabeth was presented with a pair of black _knitted_ silk stockings, by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were notallowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed onlysuited to regal magnificence. We believe the first pair of knittedstockings, ever made in England, were the production of one WilliamRider, an apprentice, residing on London Bridge; who, havingaccidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained onsome business, at the house of one of the Italian merchants, made a pairof a similar kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. Thestocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. Lee, M. A. , who had beenexpelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutesof the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to thenecessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art ofknitting, for their subsistence; and as necessity is the parent ofinvention, Mr. Lee, by carefully watching the motion of the needles, wasenabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking-frame; which has been thesource of much advantage to others, though there is reason to believethe contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor. Sinceits first introduction, knitting has been applied to a vast variety ofpurposes, and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief. Ithas furnished to the blind, the indigent, and almost destitute Irishcottage girl, the means, pleasure and profit at the same time. Manyladies, including some in the rank of royalty, have employed their hoursof leisure in the fabrication of articles, the produce of which havegone to the funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of atleast some of

 "The numerous ills that flesh is heir to;"

and amongst those, the labors of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, upon theestates of Lord de Vesci, in Ireland, ought not to be forgotten. 

TO CAST ON THE LOOPS OR STITCHES. --Take the material in the right hand, and twist it round the little finger, bring it under the next two, andpass it over the fore finger. Then take the end in the left hand, (holding the needle in the right, ) wrap it round the little finger, andthence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. By thisprocess the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she mustthen bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and abovethat which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle, which must be brought down through the loop, and the thread which is inthe left hand, being drawn tight, completes the operation. This processmust be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on. 

KNITTING STITCH. --The needle must be put through the cast-on stitch, andthe material turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the underloop, or stitch, is to be let off. This is called plain stitch, and isto be continued until one round is completed. 

PEARL STITCH. --Called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is formed byknitting with the material before the needle; and instead of bringingthe needle over the upper thread, it is brought under it. 

TO RIB, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. Three plain, and three pearled, is generally the rule. 

TO CAST OVER. --This means bringing the material round the needle, forward. 

NARROWING. --This is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting twotogether, so as to form only one loop. 

RAISING. --This is to increase the number of stitches, and is effected byknitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip out the lefthand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch, putting the needle under the stitch. Care must be taken to put thethread back when the additional stitch is finished. 

TO SEAM. --Knit a pearl stitch every alternate row. 

A ROW, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the other; anda ROUND, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. NOTE, in casting on a stocking, there must always be an odd stitch cast on forthe seam. 

TO BRING THE THREAD FORWARD, means to pass it between the needles towardthe person of the operator. 

A LOOP STITCH, is made by passing the thread before the needle. Inknitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper place. 

A SLIP STITCH, is made by passing it from one needle to another withoutknitting it. 

TO FASTEN ON. --This term refers to fastening the end of the material, when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. The bestway is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other, and knit a fewstitches with both. 

TO CAST OFF. --This is done by knitting two stitches, passing the firstover the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which is to bemade secure by passing thread through it. 

WELTS, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done at thetop of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting or curlingup. 

Sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, or in avariety of neat and fanciful patterns. Scarcely any kind of work issusceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so many ornamentalfabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair votary of this art must becareful neither to knit too tight or too loose. A medium, which willsoon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and shows thevarious kinds of work to the best advantage. The young lady should takecare to preserve her needles entirely free from rust, and to handle thematerials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible. 

Having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this usefulart, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful. 

FANCY STITCHES IN KNITTING. 

BEE'S STITCH. --In knitting a purse in this stitch, you must cast theloops on three needles, having twenty on each. The two first rows inplain knitting. The third is thus worked. Having brought the silk infront, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the oneyou slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one ispearled; proceed in this manner for one round. The next round you knitplain; the next is to be executed like the third. Proceed thus inalternate rounds, and you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted, knitting six or eight rounds of each. 

BERLIN WIRE STITCH. --The stitches cast on must be an even number. Knitthree, four, or five plain rows. Then begin the work by taking off thefirst stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and makea stitch; repeat this process to the end of the row; the next row is tobe knitted plain, and so on alternately. 

This work may be done either with large pins and lamb's wool, if it beintended for shawls, &c. , or with fine needles and thread, in which caseit forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars, and other articles of dress. If it is intended for insertion work, thenumber of stitches cast on are eight, and one pattern is formed by eachfour stitches. 

COMMON PLAIT. --This is employed for muffatees, coverlets, and variousother articles. You cast on the stitches in threes: the number isunlimited. Knit one row plain, then proceed as follows. Row first, threeplain stitches and three pearled. Second row the same, taking care tobegin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plainstitches, you begin with the pearled. Proceed in the same way with thethird row, and you will have a succession of squares, of inside andoutside knitting, alternately. The fourth row is to be begun with thesame kind of stitches as completed the first row; continue as before, and the work will be in squares, like those of a chess board. Thisstitch is extremely pretty. 

CHAIN STITCH. --The number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. Knit thefirst two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three plainstitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven stitches;the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the other threestitches plain. The next row is plain knitting, and then you proceed asin the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completedsixteen rows. You then knit three stitches plain, and take off the foursucceeding ones upon a spare pin. The next three stitches from behindthe pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the materialis to be drawn so tight, as that the pins may be connected together asclosely as possible. This done you knit the four stitches of the thirdpin, which completes the twist. The remaining three stitches are then tobe knitted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearlingseven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when anothertwist is to be made. 

CROW'S-FOOT STITCH. --This stitch may be worked in two ways. If it be fora shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the beginning and end of eachrow. 

In the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that can bedivided by three, and you must cast on one additional for thecommencement. You knit the first row plain and then proceed according tothe following directions: First, knit a stitch. Second, make a stitch. Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two stitches together. Fifth, put thestitch you slipped over the two last knitted; this is to be repeated, with the exception of the first knitted stitch, to the end of the row. The next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches. This stitch isneat and elegant. 

DOUBLE KNITTING. --Of this stitch there are three kinds, now in generaluse. In executing them proceed as follows. Having cast on any evennumber of stitches, knit a few rows in plain knitting; then, for thedouble stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the materialin front, between the knitting pins. Then a stitch is to be taken off, being careful to put the needle inside the loop, and to pass thematerial back again. You then knit another stitch, and so proceed to theend of the row. 

For the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even number ofstitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain; the materialbeing put twice over the pin. Then, as in the first kind, pass thematerial between the needles; a stitch is to be slipped, and thematerial passed again behind. This process is repeated in every stitchto the end of the row. In the next row, you reverse the work, knittingthe stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones. The third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others. It is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned insideout; hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. Thenumber of stitches must be even, as in the previous methods. No plainrow is needed; but you commence by putting the material in front of thepins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position. Turnthe first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till therow is finished. 

DUTCH COMMON KNITTING. --This is the common knitting stitch, performed ina more expeditious manner than that in general practised. The needlefilled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and the material also, which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. It passesto the needles over the fore finger. To form the loop on the needle heldin the right hand, it is only necessary to put it into the stitch frombehind, and knit off by putting the material round the needle. 

EMBOSSED DIAMOND. --You cast on any number of stitches which can bedivided by seven. The first row is plain: for the second, pearl onestitch, knit five, and pearl two; thus proceed, alternately, to completethe row: for the third, knit two, pearl three, and knit four, and soproceed. The fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six, alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. The next row you pearltwo, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. Next knit two, pearlfour and knit three, alternately. Next knit six, and pearl one, successively. Reverse the next, pearling six, and knitting one. Then inthe succeeding row, knit five and pearl three, and knit four insuccession. Next knit three, pearl two, and knit five, alternately. Thesucceeding row is plain. 

EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH. --You can work with any number of stitches youchoose, which can be divided by six. The first row is plain, the nextpearled throughout; the third row is plain. For the first knit fourstitches, and slip two at the end; then pearl a row, taking care to slipthe stitches that were slipped before. Next knit a row slipping the twostitches as before. The next row is pearled still slipping the twostitches. The succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like theothers, and the two stitches are still to be slipped. The next row ispearled, and you take up all the stitches; then a row is to be knittedplain, and a row pearled, which completes the pattern. In beginning thenext pattern, you pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, sothat they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously workedpattern; you then proceed as before. 

ELASTIC RIB. --This as its name implies, is the proper stitch forgarters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yetfirmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit onerow plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; then onepearled, and so on alternately to the end. 

FANTAIL STITCH. --The application of this stitch is in the preparation ofmitts, gloves, &c. , and sometimes it is used for purses, in which itlooks extremely pretty. The material generally employed is cotton, andyou begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. A loopis made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, andmake and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitted plain, andyou narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row, at the secondand third loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally caston. The usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen. 

FRENCH STITCH. --You set on the loops in fours, and must have two over. The first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, and knit twostitches together. Form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front, and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and thelast stitch pearled, which completes the pattern. The next row is begunin a similar manner, the thread is turned back, two stitches are knittedtogether at the end, the thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch. 

GERMAN KNITTING. --You cast on twenty-one stitches, and proceed asfollows. First row, the material is to be passed forward, one stitchslipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; three stitchesare then to be knitted, and two taken as one; again pass the materialforward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the same, except that when inthe first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knitthree. For the third row, you pass the material as before, and slip onestitch, then two are taken as one, and the slipped one is passed overagain; repeat this, except that in taking two stitches together, youknit one, and pass the slipped one over; finish by knitting twostitches. 

HONEYCOMB STITCH. --This is also often used for shawls. It is knitted asfollows. You knit the first stitch, and pass the other to make a loopover the needle. Two stitches are then knitted together, and you thuscontinue making the loops, and knitting two stitches together, until youhave completed the row. You knit every second row thus; the alternateones plain. 

HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH. --You cast on the stitches by fours, and thematerial used is silk. Knit two plain stitches, and then make a largeone, by turning the silk twice over the needle; after which, knit twostitches together, and repeat this, until you have completed the work. 

IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH. --You set on any number of stitches youplease, but you must have no odd ones. The first row is plain knitting. The next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin, andtwisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting itbehind again. You are then to knit two loops together, and the pin mustbe put first into the one nearest to you, and the wool is to be twistedround the pin as before. Then again, knit two together, and so on to theend. Each row is done in the same manner. 

KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH. --Any number of stitches you please may be caston, observing to have three for each pattern, and one over at each end. The first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off thefirst stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. Next make one, bypassing the material before, and knitting one, pearl two stitchestogether, and make and knit a stitch as before. Every row is the same. 

LACE WAVE STITCH. --The number of stitches must be even. The first stitchis to be slipped; then knit one, and make one, by casting the materialover the pin. Narrow, by knitting two stitches together, and again knita stitch; then make one, and again narrow; and so on till you completethe row. The next row is done plain. The third row is as follows: twostitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; thenknit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a rowplain. For the fifth row, knit three stitches plain, and thus proceed asin the third row. The sixth row is done plain; and the seventh onecommences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding asbefore. The eighth row is plain; and the ninth is begun by knitting fiveplain stitches, and proceed as above; then knit two rows plain, and thepattern is complete. This can be continued to any length required. 

MOSS STITCH. --This is easily done. Cast on any even number of loops, andfor the first row, the first loop is slipped, the material brought infront; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end. The next row isso worked, that the stitches knit in the proceeding row, must be pearledin this. 

OPEN HEM. --The number of stitches is unlimited, but they must be capableof being divided by four. At the beginning of each row you slip thefirst stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch by putting thecotton over the pin; knit two loops together; knit one stitch, make astitch, and so proceed. You must have very fine pins and sewing cotton. 

OPEN CROSS STITCH. --This is done in the following manner. Two colors areto be employed, and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch. Inworking the second row of each, the following is the order of procedure:first, knit a stitch: second, make a stitch; third, slip one; fourth, two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn overthe knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. The two nextare to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rowswith each color, successively. The fresh color is always to cross frombeneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the work. Inthe making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and it looks well, but, of course, requires to be bordered with some other pattern. 

ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH. --The stitches are to be set on in elevens. Commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit two together, andrepeat the same, drawing the first loop over the second; proceed thus tothe end. Commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass thematerial over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed tothe end. In the next row, knit two; pass the material round the pintwice, knit two, and so continue. Thus you proceed with alternate rowsof knitted and pearled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches madeby throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them. 

PINE APPLE STITCH. --For a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on threeneedles, and proceed thus: First row, knit one plain, raise one bythrowing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, then raise, knit twoplain, you knit the next two together, drawing the last loop over thefirst; you will then have six loops. In the second row, knit the firstraised loop, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plaintill you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together asin the first row. Third row, you knit plain to the raising, and thenproceed as in the first row. You knit the fourth as the second; and soproceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. Then in the stitchesyou had previously narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead uponeach plain loop, with a thread, and again raise. Where you hadpreviously raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk. In this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until you havetwelve rows as before. You then reverse, and again work as in the firstpart of the pattern. 

PLAIN OPEN STITCH. --The stitches set on must be an even number. The twofirst rows are plain. Then commence the third row, by knitting onestitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knittingtwo together. This is to be repeated, until you come to the last stitch, which must be knit. Then knit two plain rows and proceed as before. 

PORCUPINE STITCH. --This is proper for a purse, and when properlyexecuted, is extremely pretty. You cast on, upon each of three needles, thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. For the next, you knit fourstitches: and, having brought the silk forward, knit one loop: this willform the middle stitch of the pattern. Then, again bringing the silkforward, knit fourteen stitches; after which, slip one, and leaving theunder part, knit two together, and draw the stitches, last slipped, overit. Then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed forsix rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. You knittill within one of where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to beslipped, and you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop overit. You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is alsoplain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where youare to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. You next knita round plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside ofthe purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as this purse is donethe wrong side out. You are to knit, until you come within one loop ofthe bead, which must be slipped, and you knit the next two together. Youare then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased asin the proceeding pattern, which will make that the middle or beadstitch. The material should be done in middle sized purse silk, onneedles, No. 18. 

ROUGH-CAST STITCH. --Any odd number of stitches may be cast on. Each rowis begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearledalternately. This is very suitable for borders, as it is firm and looksneat. 

WAVE KNITTING. --This is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks extremelyneat. Commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. Then proceed asfollows. First row, knit four loops plain, pearl one, knit nine plain, and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops. Commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain, pearl seven, repeat as before. Third row, knit two plain, pearl five, knit five plain, repeat. Fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearlthree, repeat. Fifth row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, andrepeat to the end. This finishes the pattern. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

KNITTING. 

EXAMPLES IN KNITTING. 

A BIROCHE. --The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool forward, slipone, and knit two together. This elegant cushion is made up of sixteennarrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually towardthe centre. It may be made in double German wool, or other material, with No. 19 ivory or wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit twoturns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: thisforms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit twostitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must becontinued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, untilyou are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You will now findthe wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. You then againcommence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed. When the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrowstripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please. 

A BABY'S CAP. --Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds, and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding roundyou must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceding ones. Then take in eighty stitches, namely; one at every fourth, which willform a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain, the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; againknit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, againrepeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; younext proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting ontwenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows ofdouble knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rowsplain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off attop, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and openrows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; thenincrease a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, anddecrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed. 

BABY'S HOOD. --Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; cast on fiftystitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front. Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the restis to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast on fifty stitches to form thefoundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. Line with white silk, and trim with satin ribbon. 

BABY'S SHOE. --Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast on twenty-eightstitches, _in blue_, and knit one row plain; then knit a plain row inwhite, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn; then asimilar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this withoutincreasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have tenstripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeenstitches. You begin from the heel. The remaining thirteen stitches areknitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, until you have five rows of one color, and four of the other. Thethirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen tocorrespond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other, decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as toform a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitchesround the ankle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of thethree needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing thewool forward, then slip one; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitchover them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for oneround: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish, bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rowsplain, and cast off. You must use No. 14 needles, and double Germanwool. 

A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER. --This can be applied to a variety ofuseful purposes. It is executed as follows. The number of stitches mustbe even, and of any depth you deem desirable. Begin, by making a stitch, laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knitthem as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as manyrows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fastenoff, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravelfor the fringe. 

A COMFORTER. --On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and inknitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch. Thecomforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with afringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will require aquarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool; for the fringe alittle more will be required. 

ANOTHER COMFORTER. --You are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plainsixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards; then taketwenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will havetwenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by knitting as before, twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and itis done. 

ZEPHYR. --This is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made either of ahalf-handkerchief form, or a square. Cast on about 130 loops, and knitin French or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other prettypattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, &c. You may add a fringe andborder, which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance. 

AN OVER-SHOE. --These are useful to wear in the house, or to slip over asatin shoe, when occasion requires. The number of stitches to be cast onis thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewnup on one side, to the heel; then sew up three inches for the instep, and form the toe by puckering in the end. 

A KNITTED MUFF, IN IMITATION OF SABLE. --You cast on seventy or eightystitches. Knit the first three rows plain; then, for the fourth row, bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches at the back, knit them;repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is abouthalf a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct aspossible. You must here use No. 19 needles, and double German wool. Theshades required are four, and you begin with the lightest, proceeding tothe darkest, and then reversing them. The muff must be stuffed, andlined with silk. 

A STRONG KNITTED PURSE. --Any number of stitches, that can be divided bythree, will do. First and third row: The wool is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeatsecond and fourth row plain. Third and fifth row: knit two, beforecommencing the pattern; the holes will then fall in a diagonaldirection: It will require to be well stretched. 

BAREGE KNITTING, FOR SHAWLS. --In this kind of work, you commence withany number of stitches you require: and, after knitting one row plain, you begin the second, by knitting three stitches; then, bring the woolforward, and knit three together, taking them off at the back; again youbring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. The third row ispearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning byknitting three stitches together. Fifth row, the same as the third; andthus proceed with any number of rows you choose. You may introduce anypatterns in flowers, &c. , you may desire, by breaking off the groundcolor, and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by meansof a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. All flowers, &c. , must bedone in plain knitting. 

CHECKED PATTERNS. --Any number of stitches may be cast on, that can bedivided by six. Then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches, andthree plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and threepearl. This pattern may be worked for children's socks, bags, mats, (ifdone in coarse materials, ) &c. 

CLOSE STITCH, FOR A WAISTCOAT. --This is to be done in two colors, andcast on any odd number of stitches. First and fifth row, with one color;knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second and sixth row, with thesame color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass thewool back, knit one, repeat. The third is the first reversed, and thefourth is worked exactly as the second, omitting the first stitch. 

PINE APPLE PURSE. --The material is purse twist, and you will require twocolors; one skein of green, and one and a half of orange. Cast on 159stitches, and proceed as follows. Knit the first row, and turn it, thenknit two rows, and again turn. To have ten points you must narrow andwiden alternately every seven stitches. Proceed in this way with thegreen twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain rowand turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, thenreverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning ofevery row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eightrows of points. You make no loops in the second row, but having countedwhen you have finished the points, you seam in the first row of greenand reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops, proceed to knittwelve rows; after which, you must narrow until you have but four loopson each pin, then knit the stalks, and narrow off. 

STAR, WITH EIGHT POINTS. --This is proper for the bottom of a bag orpurse. In working it, proceed according to the following directions. Youwork with five needles, on each of four of which you cast on twostitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. Then, first row, raise, knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop. Second row, you knit a plain round. Third row, raise, knit two plain, raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of eachneedle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle, for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. To take off the points, proceed asfollows: first row, raise one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needleas in knitting, knit one, and draw the one not knitted over it; knitplain, and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle; thusproceed with each pin, and the star will be completed. 

KNEE CAPS. --You commence with casting on eleven loops, and knittingeight rounds; then begin to raise every alternate round until you haveforty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds plain, and thennarrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. Take off. 

KNITTING FOOTING. --The material is fine cotton, and you cast elevenstitches. Knit one row plain. Second row, knit one, make one, knit twotogether, knit three plain, make one, knit two together knit threeplain. Third row, is the second row reversed; the fourth is the same asthe second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for anylength you please. A bag knitted the same way, and put over blue orcrimson silk, looks extremely handsome. The material for a bag is fineworsted, and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be dividedby eleven, taking care to have one additional stitch for eachtwenty-two; that is, for four elevens, cast on forty-six. 

DOUBLE NIGHTCAP. --You will find five needles are required. You must caston two stitches on each of four needles, and in the first row increasetwo, and in the second one plain stitch in each. In the third row, thecentre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase oneach side of it every other row, until you have attained the widthrequired. You then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain, untilthe cap is of a sufficient length, say twenty-four to twenty-eightinches, then decrease the first row, and make the other end tocorrespond with the one first knitted. 

DOTTED KNITTING, FOR BABY'S SHOES, &C. --Cast on and knit as many rows asyou desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. Begin everyother row with a pearled stitch. An odd number of stitches are required, and No. 8 needles. 

KNITTED FRINGE. --This may be made of any material deemed most suitablefor the purposes to which it is to be applied. Cast on eight stitches. First knit two, then make one by bringing the cotton round the needle, and knitting it when it occurs in the next row; then knit two stitchestogether, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight, and so proceed to the end of the row. When you have knitted as many rowsas you require, cast off five stitches and leave three, to beunravelled, for the fringe. They may be knitted in two or more colors, taking care to knit them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal numberof stitches in each color. 

GENTLEMAN'S TRAVELLING CAP. --You first cast on an even number ofstitches, and thus proceed; the first row is plain; then slip off thefirst stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the material infront; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and soproceed to the end of the row: you commence the next by slipping astitch as before; then knit two stitches together to the last, which isto be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately. 

HERRING-BONE PURSE. --The number of stitches must be so as to be dividedby four. The silk is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit one, andbring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, again bring the silk forward, pearl one, and so repeat. This purse should be knitted with second sizednetting silk, No. 13. 

HALF HANDKERCHIEF. --This is extremely pretty, when properly executed. Begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit as many rows, increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon thepin. You must increase always at the same end: then commence thepattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together, putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. Repeat thisuntil you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make astitch, and knit the remainder plain. The next row is to be done inpearl stitch, and the succeeding one as the first pattern. Every row ofpearl stitch must be increased one, and the three last stitches are tobe knitted plain. This handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter longon the straight side. When completed, fasten off. 

HABIT SHIRT. --These are worn under a shawl, and are extremelycomfortable: they protect the chest from cold. The material most properfor them is floss wool, and they should be knitted with steel pins. Youknit the front first, and begin by casting on as many loops as will formthe length required. As it is necessary that one end should be a gooddeal more sloped than the other, you must be careful to increase at theend most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are onlyto increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one ofthe fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back. Commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase ateach end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from oneshoulder to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row forthe neck. You then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on oneside and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper hollow isobtained. You then knit the collar straight, and of any depth youplease. Make up, by sewing the various parts together, and set on aribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and another to secure it atthe throat. 

HARLEQUIN QUILT, WITH TUCKS. --This is done in double knitting stitch, with six threads fleecy. The pieces are six inches square. Each squareconsists of about 24 stitches, and they are to be sewn together with atuft of wool, black or white, at each corner. The square should beknitted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yardand a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should bewhite. Make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 timesround a grooved wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarsethread in the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care thatan end is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to thequilt. The loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of themesh; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible. 

PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF. --Cast on the number of stitches required uponNo. 18 needles, and any kind of material you choose; three-threadsfleecy is generally preferred. Knit one plain stitch, then two together, and so on alternately, to the end of the row: each succeeding one is buta repetition of the first: it may be done in stripes, with variouscolors. 

PLAIN KNITTED MUFFATEES. --For these you will require four needles. Onthree of these cast on an equal number of stitches, according to thesize required, and knit each round three pearl and three plain: finishwith one plain and two pearl rows. 

STOCKINGS. --Cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 99, fifth109, sixth 133. Then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings, 40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, according to the sizes givenabove. The narrowings in the leg are according to the size, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 21. After which you knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds tothe heel, which is to be formed in the following manner. The stitchesare to be divided in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for themiddle, and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain andpearled stitches. The length, of course, varies in proportion to thesize, being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 forthe fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. The heel is finishedby knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, andtaking up one of the others with the last loop of each row, till all istaken off. There will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished. Having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. You takeup sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking themup, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitchin the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in thecorners, that would otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round onthe heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same asthose in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle. You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be;and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 14, 18, 23, 26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the narrowings for the feet will be 6, 8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, according to the measurement given. You begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams, leaving only theseam stitch between, and narrowing twice with three, and twice with tworounds left between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but oneround between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only areleft. Finish by putting the two needles having stitches on themtogether. And when two stitches are done in this manner, cast them off, the first over the last, until the whole is taken off the needles. Itshould be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of thestocking, and are as follows: first size 29, second 33, third 33, fourth37, fifth 41, and sixth 45. 

Some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe is heredirected to be finished. 

OPEN-WORK STOCKINGS. --On each needle cast on 52 stitches with finecotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. When youarrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, and when you have 38stitches on each needle, cease, and knit until the article iscompleted; then take half the stitches to form the heel, knit 23 loops, and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows. In forming the heel, narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam, and then the loopsmust be taken up, the end one as close as possible. Take three stitchesfrom each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a roundplain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are the fifth andsixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrowat the ends of the needles every other row, until only ten remain oneach; narrow every row until you have only three, which you cast off inthe usual manner. The open pattern is produced by knitting every fifthround thus: take two stitches in one, and bring the cotton in front ofthe needle, that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding twointo one. The more open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitchesand the finer needles you will require. 

A NIGHT STOCKING. --This is easily done: cast on 54 stitches on largeneedles, and pearl every other stitch, narrowing gradually toward theend. 

SOCKS. --These are very useful articles, and are easy of execution. Inthe first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and in the third85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25, 29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The instep has 24, 25, or42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 12, or 14 turns. Thelength of the foot between the narrowings, is 10, 15, and 28 rounds. 

CORNER FOR A SHAWL. --This, if properly executed, according to thedirections, looks extremely handsome. Begin by casting on two loops, toform the point; knit them, and proceed as follows. First row, make aloop, knit the two original ones together, make a loop; you will thenhave three loops upon the pin; knit four additional rows in plain andpearled alternately, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end ofeach row, and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. Inthe next row commence the pattern thus. Sixth row begin with six plainstitches, pearl one, knit six plain. Seventh row plain knitting. Eighthrow, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit twotogether, pearl one, knit six plain. Ninth row plain. Tenth, knit sixplain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit two together, again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, makea stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row plain. Twelfth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit twotogether, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Thirteenth row plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearlthree, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit sixplain. Fifteenth row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit twotogether, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make astitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Seventeenth row plain. Eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit twotogether, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make astitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Nineteenth rowplain. Twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl three, knittwo together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit twotogether, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, pearlthree, knit two together, knit six plain. The twenty-first row is plain, and you then decrease as you increased, knitting the twenty-second rowas the twentieth, and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin. The square is then complete. 

BORDER FOR THE SHAWL. --Having finished the corner, pick up thetwenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain; the second row, knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again pearl three, thenthree plain, pearl three, knit four plain. The third row knit plain; thefourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three together, knit one, pearl one, knit twotogether, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. Fifth row plain. Sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain. Eighth row, same as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth. Eleventh plain. Twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, andre-commence the pattern. The shawl must be knitted on the same sizedpins as the border and corner, and must have as many loops as there arestitches in the length of the border. The border and corner may be donein two colors, which must harmonize well with each other, and form agood contrast to the shawl itself. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

NETTING. 

EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 

Netting is another employment, to which the attention of the fair hasbeen directed from the remotest times. Specimens of Egyptian network, performed three thousand years since, are still in existence; and, fromthat time, the art, in connection with that of spinning flax, was therecarried to its highest state of perfection. With these specimens, arepreserved some of the needles anciently used in netting. They are to befound in one of the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made offlax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, "theycould pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry asufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius Lupus, whilegovernor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each string of whichconsisted of one hundred and fifty threads. " But even this fineness wasfar exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, presented by Amasis, kingof Egypt, to the Rhodians, the threads of which, as we learn from thesame authority, were each composed of three hundred and sixty-fivefibres. Herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture. 

In connection with other elegant female accomplishments, netting hascontinued to claim the attention of the ladies of Europe, in everyadvanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivatedwith considerable success. Netting was a favorite employment of the lateQueen Charlotte, during the latter years of her life. 

[Illustration]

PLAIN NETTING. --Take the mesh in the left hand, (having previously madea long loop with twine, and fixed it to any convenient support, ) betweenthe two first fingers and the thumb. The netting needle must be threadedwith the material, and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spokenof, and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot_under_ the twine. The silk is to be held in the right hand between thefore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the lefthand, so that the material may be formed into a slack loop, passing overall the fingers, except the little one. In this position, the silk mustbe held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, andthe needle must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing thematerial to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. Theneedle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must passunder the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus throughthe loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of thematerial which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop. The needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is sobrought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needlebeing drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengageall the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its holdof the second loop, which was formed by passing the material round it. By means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is tobe drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to thefoundation. This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number ofstitches are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the netdesired. As the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered todrop off; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn out, and a rowof loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respectiveknots, and moving freely onwards. The work is then to be turned over, which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed; and in netting asecond row, it will be done as before from left to right. In commencingthe second, and all the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed asto come up close to the bottom of the preceding row or loops, and theformer process with the needle must be repeated. It will be needful, tohave a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, orotherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible itshould do. 

BEAD STITCH. --To execute this stitch properly, requires care, but it isvery ornamental. Beads of all kinds, may be introduced. In order to netwith beads, you must procure a long taper darning needle: the stitch isas follows; string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with: thisbead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until theknot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread, passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh. The needle and thread are then to be drawn through it, by which meansthe bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made. By working thebeads in this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, andso remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work. 

[Illustration]

DIAMOND NETTING. --This kind of netting is easy of execution, and looksextremely pretty. It is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch, in order to effect which, the silk must be put twice round the mesh, instead of once, as in plain netting. Treble diamond netting is similar, only the process is rather more difficult in execution. After nettingthree rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed ofone loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row isfinished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch, then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before. For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make a loop, then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and the plain stitchto the end of the row. For the fourth row you net three stitches inplain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat as in previous rows. An attention to this arrangement, will soon enable the young student innet-work, to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable. 

[Illustration]

DIAMOND NETTING, OF FIVE STITCHES. --Commence with a long loop, then netfive loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a longloop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meetthe short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh beforecommencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Thirdrow is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and workthree plain loops. Begin the fourth row with a plain stitch, work along loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plainstitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceedto the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form aloose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw themesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences withthree stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with twoplain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make along loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row beginswith three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitchplain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the rowwith a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth rowis begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper forthis kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized pursetwist, is the best adapted for this kind of work. 

[Illustration]

DOTTED NETTING. --This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops yourequire, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you nextincrease two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rowsare at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniformappearance, as in that consists its principal beauty. 

SHADED SILK NETTING. --This is beautiful, when the shades blend welltogether. Of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the nextneedful must be matched with the utmost care. It is not possible togive minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things, practice will insure success. 

[Illustration]

GRECIAN NETTING. --This is beautiful, and should be worked with finesilk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be nettedwith the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. Thesilk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needlemust pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence intothe second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and thefirst through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingersand pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kindsof stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work iscompleted. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as bestaccords with the design you are intending to accomplish. 

[Illustration]

FRENCH GROUND NET. --You must have an even number of loops on thefoundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops, alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Beginthe fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end;commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, andthe little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch. 

ANOTHER KIND OF HONEYCOMB NETTING. --Use a mesh No. 17, and set on aneven number of stitches. Net the first row plain, having the silk roundthe mesh twice. For the second row you put the silk once round the meshand net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net thefirst loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitchplain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, alternately. The third row is the same as the first, and the fourth asthe second. These kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, &c. , and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in fouror five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting. 

[Illustration]

HONEYCOMB NETTING. --You are to make an even number of loops, putting thesilk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silkonce round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at theback, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle ofthe first and netted: you do the same with each two of the otherstitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, thesilk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceedthus in alternate rows until the work is done. 

[Illustration]

HONEYCOMB NETTING, WITH TWO MESHES. --The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16. Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, withthe No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the secondstitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourthstitch, and then the third, and so on to the end. Work the third rowwith No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting thefirst loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to the end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The nextrow is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the firsttwisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at thecommencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. Thiskind of netting is proper for a veil. 

[Illustration]

LEAF NETTING. --This is pretty when executed properly. You should workwith cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern. Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then netthree plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operationto the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second rowas before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice fourloops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain;repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. Thethird row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next twoloops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row;finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, netone plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net threeplain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row isnetted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to bedone. 

NET WITH POINTS. --This is done by making a foundation of, say, ninetystitches. Net on this foundation with any color you please. Net fiftystitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing tenstitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. Two colorsare required. 

[Illustration]

MALTESE NETTING, IN SPOTS. --This is neat and elegant: it is done asfollows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third rowby netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but withoutnetting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one youare about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be nettedseparately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it isto be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. Ifyou desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silkpass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeatthe operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appearsin the pattern, or in almost any form you please. 

[Illustration]

PLAIN OPEN NETTING. --This is pretty, and easy of execution. Theoperation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loopstitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You maynet to any length you please. The direction here given is all that isnecessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attainproficiency. 

[Illustration]

ROUND NETTING. --You commence making the loops, as in common netting, bytwisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silkthrough the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to bekept on them as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and broughtdown through the first loop, (on the foundation, ) and taking a slantingdirection over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdrawyour finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. You every succeedingloop in the same way. 

CHAPTER XV. 

NETTING. 

EXAMPLES IN NETTING. 

A PURSE, WITH CHINA SILK. --Make as many stitches on the foundation asyou please. Net three rows with plain colors, then five with China silk. Repeat. 

A SEAM PURSE, WITH BEADS. --You will need four skeins of fine silk, and amesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row. Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. Netthe third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thustill the purse is completed. 

A NETTED BAG, WITH RING. --On a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bagto half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish thebag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at thebottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You mayuse union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it. 

DICE PATTERN PURSE. --This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. Youmust have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On afoundation of ninety-eight stitches, net seven with the darkest color. You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it tothe seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color, and net sevenrows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must becareful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this processuntil the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing thesquares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make aweaver's knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color. 

HONEYCOMB MITTENS. --You commence by casting on fifty stitches; the firstfour rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with thesilk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round themesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. Thefirst row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the secondis in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, andthe fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitcheswith the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make twoincreased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to netfive stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row;net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the foursucceeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the nextround, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net sevenstitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen inplain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, andnet five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each sideagain increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuingto net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased, and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of thethumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, untilthat object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a roundwith the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plainnetting; the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb, in orderto finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern roundssuccessively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish inthe same manner you did the thumb, using double silk. 

NETTED CUFFS. --The materials are German wool and French floss silk, andthe work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15. You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to formthe right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and threerows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have nettedtwenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row ofwool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with thesmall one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, withtwo narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having ineach loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, anddo the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turningthe plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind ofborder and finish to the whole. 

NETTED CUFF WITH SILK AND WOOL. --On a foundation of ninety-six stitches, and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row thesame. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row inGerman wool. The fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, withwool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, netfourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to bedone in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted indark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same coloras at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in propershades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning. 

NETTED FRINGE. --Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, droppingoff the stitches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with aflat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as theyare, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker maydictate. 

NETTED OPERA CAP. --Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches. You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well:commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; thesecond is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: thesixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net fivemore rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, youcommence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches oneach loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same coloras that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; inthat row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be takenup separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of thelighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Netanother piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, andtaking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row withthe narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be foldedin the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of thecap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, neta row with the narrow mesh, to keep it on an even fold. You draw up thecap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it. 

[Illustration]

NETTED SCOLLOP EDGING. --You work this with a flat mesh, and set on asmany stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should beNo. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and theother No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flatmesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on thefoundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plainstitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row inlong loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are toincrease two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end ofthe row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all theincreased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. Thefifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, whichfinishes the scollop. 

PLAIN NETTED GENTLEMAN'S PURSE. --Of coarse netting silk, you willrequire five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation ofeighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of teninches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is putupon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, thentake it off and trim it as you please. 

A LADY'S PURSE. --Net in the same manner seventy stitches on thefoundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No. 10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rowswith one, and four with the other. 

PLAIN NETTED MITTENS. --Begin on forty-eight stitches as a foundation, and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with amesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are tobe netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net oneplain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. Again netround, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must thennet sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in thesame place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join thethumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you areto net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking thetwo together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishesthe thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish asbefore. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12mesh, and five skeins of silk. 

[Illustration]

A PLAIN SCOLLOP. --You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this isthe first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increasetwenty stitches in each loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are nettedplain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern. 

[Illustration]

CAP BORDER SCOLLOP. --You commence with one stitch for each scollop, asin last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, andincrease in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with theround mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one. The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about thesize of what is called third-sized purse twist. 

NET CRAVAT. --This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9. Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, nettwenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, orwhite; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceedthus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sidestogether, and draw up the ends. You may add tassels, if you choose. 

A NET SCARF. --This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No. 2, and in that kind of silk called _dockers_. You are to commence, bycasting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which willcomplete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and havetassels attached. 

A LONG PURSE, IN POINTS. --Upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitchesin one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in thenext row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten, always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the tenunnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, andput on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops fromthe sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of thesixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw themesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through theconcluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color theten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; andyou must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern isthen complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

CROCHET. 

STITCHES IN CROCHET. 

Crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with thefair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is verydifficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to avariety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adoptedin working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderateshare of attention to details, will make an expert workman. 

STITCHES. --These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, thoughit is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerablycorrect. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at oneend, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and soon, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rathertight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms thefoundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article sheintends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of thefoundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw itthrough and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she mustproceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, andfrom left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is themost effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she willfind that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised anddepressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must notgenerally work backward and forward, but must finish each rowseparately. 

PLAIN CROCHET. --Make only one loop in each stitch. In making commonpurses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed. 

PLAIN DOUBLE CROCHET. --Keep two loops on the needle before finishing thestitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the othersdescribed. 

PLAIN STITCH OPEN CROCHET. --This stitch is done in the following manner. To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, whichmust be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to berepeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in thesame way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop inthe row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it can bevaried by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct. 

[Illustration]

OPEN CROCHET. --This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to thefollowing rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. Firstmake a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work onestitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must bepassed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring thematerial, and you will thus have three stitches on the needle. Throughthe two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two;through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth linkof the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitchbetween each two double ones, which will leave an open space. 

[Illustration]

DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET. --This is a similar stitch, only the single stitchis omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing theneedle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will havetwo long stitches and one open stitch in succession. 

[Illustration]

TREBLE OPEN CROCHET. --This is exactly like the last, only making threelong stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neatand elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charmingeffect. The following directions will enable the novice to work withbeads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, andpass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones. 

This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. Beadsof various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold orpolished steel one should form the centre of each diamond. 

DOUBLE STITCH CROCHET. --To work this you have only to take both meshesof the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet. 

PLAIN STITCH ELASTIC CROCHET. --Work backward and forwards, first takingone mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be takenfirst. 

BEAD STITCH. --If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all youintend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert abead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only topass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it onby working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrongside; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to thefront, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keepingthe bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the stitchyou are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, andmake the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that thebead is on the right side. 

EDGE STITCH. --To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through thefirst stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, thendraw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch isformed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of thisstitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a stitch. On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when thework has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch isindispensible. 

A RAISED STITCH. --Make this by passing the needle through, both meshesof the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same spaceor hole. 

TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH. --In the former case, make two stitchesin the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, ormiss one. 

TRUE STITCH. --This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch. This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, themore beautiful will the work appear. 

TO FASTEN ON OR OFF. --The former is done by laying the two ends of thematerial contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latterprocess is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, which must be fastened at the back. 

A DIVIDING LINE. --The most general form is that of working two stitchesup and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but itcan be varied according to taste. 

What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, meansmaking one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, whichnew stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row. 

TO CARRY ON A THREAD IN DOUBLE CROCHET. --It is a very common thing towork a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is thecase, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be somanaged, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplishthis, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, thatare not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; andthe crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into thestitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, andthe thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make thefinishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pullthrough the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make onestitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requiresit. 

JOINING THE THREADS. --In order that threads may be united neatly andproperly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the threadquite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger ofthe left hand, by the end of the thread you are about to commenceworking with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball willof course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the threadyou worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the threadyou have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, forabout six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on asusual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, ofmaking the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing therequired degree of fineness. 

TO INCREASE A STITCH IN CROCHET. --The process by which this is done, isas follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from thehinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which wouldotherwise occur. 

TO TAKE IN A STITCH. --To do this, two stitches are taken on the needleat the same time, and you work them off as one. 

We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches incrochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that thedirections are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehendtheir meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightfulemployment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously applyher own mind to the various directions. "No one can become an expertneedlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too. "

CHAPTER XVII. 

CROCHET. 

EXAMPLES IN CROCHET. 

[Illustration]

CROCHET EDGING, FOR COLLARS, &C. --Ascertain the length you will require, and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steelhook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece oftape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning andtermination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; thesecond is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop ofthe foundation; (this will be on the tape, ) through which, a loop is tobe brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop isworked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work twochain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, bycasting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on thefoundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread frombehind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops;and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you willstill have three loops on the hook. Again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; thenthrow on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loopsremaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle;and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass itinto the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over thetwo chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle beinginserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in frombehind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on thehook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through thefirst loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrownin, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you willnow have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previousrow, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in allrespects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in thefollowing manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work adouble tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; thenseven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chainstitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollopor vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way. 

[Illustration]

PETTICOAT CROCHET EDGING. --Work this in the following manner. First rowlike the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; andfinish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, isthe best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, havingan ivory screw handle. 

CROCHET EDGING, HANDKERCHIEFS. --This is done in three rows, worked asthe first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. The material is Persian thread, No. 12; and you work with a fine steelcrochet needle, with a screw handle. 

INSERTION, OR CROCHET BEADING. --You work this, if narrow, as first andsecond rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as thethird row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or No. 12 cotton, andlooks neat and handsome. 

The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. It isnecessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as itis liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, ofcourse, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken, to have them gauged. If a needle will go into the slit, opposite No. 4, but not into No. 5, then it is a No. 4 needle. 

SOFA PILLOW. --Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochetneedle; work as follows. For the first stripe, commence with two rows ofthe same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a colorthat will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row mustbe of a different color, or it may be white. The next five rows are tocorrespond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe iscomposed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the samecolor; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shadesas the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same, but, of course, the colors are different. A white row in the middle of eachstripe, is, in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetitionof the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of thesecond, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspond_exactly_ with the first. 

TURKISH PATTERN, FOR A TABLE COVER. --Use a steel needle, and six threadsfleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, sayclaret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, andscarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, twoscarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in twoblues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in twoscarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on thescarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. We have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and toassist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. She can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and themore she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original willher work appear. 

A PLAIN CROCHET BAG, IN SILK. --Begin at the top with a chain, of onehundred and fifty stitches. The material to work with, may be any kindof silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may bedeemed desirable. On this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, andthen a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. Thesecond color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work oneplain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with theplain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a differentcolor. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of thepattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of twocolors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is tocontrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars shouldalso be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of thesame color; all the small stars should be alike. The stripes are to berepeated successively, until the bag is completed. 

A GREEK CAP, IN COARSE CHENILLE. --With a chain of six or eight stitches, begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, inrows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches, in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches in opencrochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a fewplain lines, in black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant. 

A CROCHET NECK CHAIN. --Commence with fine plain stitches; then put theneedle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. Bytwisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitchappears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, andcrocheted. 

A PLAIN CROCHET PURSE. --This purse is made with middle-sized nettingsilk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be made of one hundredand forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are tocrochet three rows plain in the same color. Then, five rows, in a colormaking a good contrast. Repeat these stripes as many times as arerequisite, and crochet up the sides. Draw up the ends, and trim thepurse. 

We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as withoutengravings, they would not be understood. This kind of work is capableof being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but inalmost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy tobe described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, toafford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that forpurses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c. , it can be readily brought intorequisition. Much care and judgment are required in the arrangement ofcolors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

TATTING. 

EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 

[Illustration]

TATTING OPEN STITCH. --Take your tatting needle, and, having threaded itwith the appropriate material make a knot at the end. In order to makethe loops, put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand, and form also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers, extending them for that purpose. These loops are made by carrying thethread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, soas to pass over the knot. In this position they must be held tightlydown by the pressure of the thumb. You will observe that the thumb andfore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop, but youare to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight directionfrom the fore finger and thumb, between the second and third fingers:the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, upthrough the middle, between the thread which is on the needle, and thethread round the fingers. You must be careful to have the thread (on theneedle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through. From the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight aspossible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you makethe stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread whichis next the needle. You are to withdraw the second finger, and allow theloop round the fingers to form round the thread. The fingers are then tobe again inserted, and form the stitch with the second finger by drawingit up to its proper place, close to the thumb. This will finish thestitch. For the next, cast the thread over the back part of the hand, instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch, and let theneedle be inserted down through the finger loop, between the first andsecond fingers; then draw it up through between the two threads over theback part of the fingers, and form the stitch with the second one, as inthe previous stitch. You work the third stitch the same as the first, only longer, that it may form a long loop. Repeat the second stitch, then the long loop; and thus proceed until you have seven loops: afterthis, the thread is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop. 

[Illustration]

STAR TATTING. --The material for this kind of work is bobbin, such as isgenerally used for children's caps. You have only to work six scollopsand draw them up close, so as to form a star. When made with precisionand regularity, they present a neat appearance. Star tatting is welladapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament. 

[Illustration]

COMMON TATTING EDGING. --Make the loops, and work the first stitch as inthe first pattern; then work twenty stitches the same way to form thescollop. When it is finished, you must draw up the thread tight, andthen commence another. If it has been properly done, the scollop willdraw freely. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

CONCLUDING REMARKS. 

In bringing the Ladies' Work-Table Book to a close, we cannot persuadeourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or two to our fairfriends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all the useful orornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enablethem to acquire. We should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to beabsent from our thoughts: she who has no definite aim in what she does, can never have any good ground of hope, that, in her progress throughlife, she can attain to excellence. 

These remarks apply principally to that large class, who are dependentupon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort and respectability, in their respective stations. But, as those ladies, whose circumstancesrender a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matterof indifference, a knowledge of them is, by no means, unnecessary. Inmany ways indeed, a lady, blessed with affluence, may render anacquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful. 

It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, whoseeducation has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. Inthose cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and is actuated by atrue Christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place ofa mother to her humble dependents; and, under a deep sense of her highresponsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitableand kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the dutiesof that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days becalled upon to fill. In this case, how useful will the kind and carefulmistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper methodof making those articles of dress which are so essential to every familywho, however humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wiseand the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectableappearance. 

Those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time tothe superintendence of our female charity schools, will also find suchknowledge extremely beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow theexample of the holy Dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving anddestitute poor, an acquaintance with _plain needlework_ isindispensible; and indeed, it will, in every walk of life, be founduseful to her who is, by the animating love of the Lord Jesus, disposed

 "To seek the wretched out, And court the offices of soft humanity. "

Another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of the kindlysolicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed out. In caseswhere the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected, it willbe generally found that their religious and moral training has beenequally uncared for. Let the Christian lady evince a real desire toimprove the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and shewill soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to thereception of instructions of a higher and still more importantcharacter. Hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influenceof genuine kindness exercised in a friendly Christian spirit. We oncehad the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith ofChrist, while those in whose service she was, and two others, highlyrespectable persons, answered for her at the font. This beautifulmeeting together of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the mostsplendid parish churches in England, and left on our minds an impressionwhich will never be effaced. 

In the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votaryof the needle, such instructions as we hope will be found sufficientlyclear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of herassiduity, taste, and judgment. We have sought to be concise, withoutbeing obscure; and to give plain directions, without making our readersmere imitators, or copyists. One fault which is to be found in all thebooks on these subjects, which we have seen, we have carefully avoided;that is, the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in thefabrication of each example given. Nothing can be more absurd, andmischievous than this. The young work-woman can only exercise herjudgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. The variousstitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, inmost instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in thechoice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: herejudgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules andforms; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to relyupon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beautyor propriety. We see the effect of this, in the sameness, and monotonousappearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work: and we have endeavored todo our best, to introduce a more correct taste and principle into thisdepartment of the elegant arts, in which females are engaged. We knowthat much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen; and we wishto see it expand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps overour native hills. 

We have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which theneedle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so well calculatedto promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readilyadmitted by all, that he who has made the most improvements, andproduced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument, has conferred a real benefit upon his race. 

We have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition ofaccomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. We wish to direct theminds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct, tothe immortal beauties of moral excellence. These works may be madeconducive, in a high degree, to the development of family affection, andthe promotion, to a vast extent, of the purposes of genuine charity, benevolence, and friendship. But there is yet a higher kind of use, towhich we would apply them. We would have the young lady, who is becomingexpert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabricgrows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skillto plan and execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind; of thatMind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of theOmnipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency to whatwould, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. It isOmnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived and executed all thebeautiful wonders of creation; and that Wisdom and Power were calledinto activity by Omnipotent Love. We wish to impress this sublime truthupon the mind of our young readers, because we wish them to place theirHeavenly Father before them--as their pattern and example--in all thatthey take in hand; and to remember that, as He formed the universe byWisdom, from Love--so all their actions and elegant contrivances shouldbe the result of judgment, guided by affection--that they may thusbecome like their Father, who is in Heaven. 

Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to thedevelopment of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at allworthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world toflutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen andadmired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to makeall our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to thehappiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To thisend, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wishthem to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve somenoble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, thewell-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and theelegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of aleisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and suchthey will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, andplaced in due subordination to the right exercise of more importantduties. The young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or of music, should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those pursuits, willbe accounted lost or improved, by the impartial Judge of all--just inproportion as they have been made to serve the purposes of selfishgratification, or to minister to the development of an elevated moralcharacter--generous and warm affections--and the cultivation of thosevirtues, which, as essentials of the Christian character, shall outlivethe ravages of time, and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of acoming eternity. 

In all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, let herplace a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to render everytransaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher stateof being. Our various faculties and powers were not given us to bewasted, but to be used to the honor of our Creator--the comfort andwelfare of those around us--and, as a consequence of our faithfuldischarge of our several obligations, conducive, in an eminent degree, to our happiness. No mistake can be more fatal, than an idea that, forwhat we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. What we calltrifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, themost important acts of our lives. It is not by great events that ourcharacters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our dutiesin that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly Father hasseen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, soothe the sorrows, increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should bethe highest aim of a laudable ambition--and every endeavor should bemost assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends. It is, in fact, only when we thus employ our various talents andcapabilities, that they are really useful, in any other case, they areonly ministers to our personal pride, and selfish gratification, insteadof becoming links in that golden chain, by which the faithfulperformance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of "acrown of righteousness, that fadeth not away. "

Let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exercisesher judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or materials, or inthe invention of new developments of creative genius, ever remember toexercise those powers as a Christian--let her cultivate, in her inmostsoul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from onhigh--and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice, acceptable to her God, by doing all in the spirit, and under theinfluence of that sacred charity--that boundless benevolence--which everrejoices, in making its various capabilities subservient to the good ofothers, and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time, an endurance and a continuity, that shall endure for ever. 

INDEX. 

 Algerine Work, 69

 Angular Stitch, 33

 Applique, 84, 89

 Apron, Girl's, 40

 ----, Morning, 40

 ----, Vandyke, 40

 ---- for a young person, 40

 Aprons, 38

 ----, Dress, 39

 Armorial Bearings, 83, 89

 Baby's Cap, 111

 ---- Hood, 112

 ---- Shoe, 112

 Barege Knitting for Shawls, 115

 Basket Stitch, 66, 88

 Bathing Gown, 40

 Bead Stitch, 127, 145

 Bead Work, 84

 Beaufort Star, 71

 Beautiful Fringe and Border, 113

 Bed-room Linen, 54

 Bee's Stitch, 101

 Berlin Wire Stitch, 101

 Biassing, 35

 Binding, 59

 Biroche, A, 111

 Blankets, 54

 Border for a Shawl, 124

 Braces, 85

 Braiding, 59

 Braid Work, 84, 89

 Brief Description of Wools, 22

 Bustles, 41

 Button-hole Stitch, 31

 Cap Border Scollop, 140

 Caps, 41

 Cashmere Shawl, 49

 Cast off, To, 100

 Cast on, To, 98

 Cast over, To, 99

 Chain Stitch, 32, 102

 ---- ---- on Gathers, 34

 Checked Patterns, 115

 Chenille Embroidery, 80

 Chess Pattern, 71

 Child's Collar, 41

 Cloaks, 42

 Close Stitch for Waistcoats, 115

 Comforter, A, 113

 Comforter, Another, 113

 Common Plait, 101

 Common Tatting Edging, 155

 Coral Pattern, 35

 Corner for a Shawl, 122

 Corners, To fill up, 69

 Cravats, 42

 Crochet Edging, for Collars, 148

 ---- ---- for Hdkfs. , 150

 ---- Neck Chain, 152

 Cross Stitch, 65

 Crow's-foot Stitch, 102

 Diagram, 61

 Diamond Netting, 128

 ---- ---- 5 stitches, 128

 Dice Pattern, 72

 ---- ---- Purse, 135

 Dinner Napkins, 56

 Dividing Line, A, 146

 Dotted Knitting, Baby's shoe, 117

 ---- Netting, 129

 Double Cross Stitch, 65

 ---- Diamond, long stitch, 72

 ---- Herring-boning, 34

 ---- Knitting, 103

 ---- Nightcap, 117

 ---- Open Crochet, 144

 ---- Plait Stitch, 69

 ---- Stitch Crochet, 144

 ---- Straight Cross Stitch, 65

 Dressing Table Covers, 55

 Dress Shawl, 49

 Dutch Common Knitting, 104

 Edge Stitch, 145

 Elastic Rib, 105

 Embroidery, 88

 ---- in Wool, 80

 ---- with Silk, 79

 Embossed Diamond, 104

 ---- Hexagon Stitch, 104

 Fancy Bobbin Edging, 34

 ---- Button-hole Stitch, 31

 ---- Chain Stitch, 31

 ---- Herring-boning, 33

 Fantail Stitch, 105

 Fasten on, To, 100

 ---- off, To, 146

 Feather Stitch, 67

 French Ground Net, 130

 ---- Stitch, 105

 Frills, 42

 Frame, to Dress for Cloth Work, 82

 ----, to Dress for Cross Stitch, 82

 ----, to Dress for Tent Stitch, 83

 Gathering, Double, or Puffing, 30

 ----, 30

 Gem, or Set Patterns, 85

 Gentlemen's Belts, 43

 ---- Braces, 89

 ---- Collars, 43

 ---- Fronts, 43

 ---- Travelling Cap, 118

 ---- Waistcoats, 85, 89

 German Knitting, 105

 ---- Pattern, 72, 88

 Gobelin, 85

 ---- Stitch, 66

 Grecian Netting, 130

 Greek Cap, coarse Chenille, 152

 Habit Shirt, 119

 Half Handkerchief, 118

 Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts, 119

 Heart Pattern, 73

 Hemming, 29

 ----, German, 29

 Herring-bone Bag Stitch, 106

 ---- Purse, 118

 Herring-boning, 33

 Honeycombing, 36

 Honeycomb Mittens, 136

 ---- Netting, 131

 ---- ----, with two Meshes, 131

 ----, Another kind, 130

 ---- Stitch, 106

 Horse-shoe Stitch, 34

 Housemaid and Kitchen Linen, 57

 Imitation Net-work Stitch, 106

 Indian Scarf, 49

 Insertion, Crochet Beading, 150

 Instructions in Grounding, 91

 Irish Diamond, 73

 ---- Stitch, 66

 Jelly Bag, 58

 Joining the Threads, 146

 Knee Caps, 116

 Knit Herring-bone Stitch, 107

 Knitted Footing, 117

 ---- Fringe, 117

 ---- Muff, 114

 Knitting Stitch, 99

 Lace, 73, 88

 ---- Wave Stitch, 107

 Ladies' Drawers, 43

 ---- Flannel Waistcoats, 44

 ---- Night Jackets, 44

 ---- Purses, 139

 ---- Walking Shawls, 50

 Landscapes, 85

 Leaf Netting, 132

 Long Purse, in Points, 141

 Loop Stitch, 100

 Making Buttons, 60

 Maltese Netting in Spots, 133

 Mantuamaker's Hem, 29

 Materials for Plain Needlework, 17

 ---- for Embroidery, 21

 ---- for Fancy Needlework, 20

 ---- for Knitting, Netting and Crochet, 21

 Marking, 59

 Medallion Pattern, 90

 Mosaic Work, 86, 89

 Moss Stitch, 107

 Mourning Shawls, 50

 Narrowing, 99

 Necessary Implements in Crochet, 26

 Necessary Implements in Fancy Needlework, 25

 Necessary Implements in Knitting, 25

 Necessary Implements in Netting, 25

 Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs, 45

 Net Cravat, 141

 ---- Scarf, 141

 ---- with Points, 132

 Netted Bag, with Ring, 135

 ---- Cuffs, with Silk and Wool, 137

 ---- Cuffs, 137

 ---- Fringe, 138

 ---- Opera Cap, 138

 ---- Scollop Edging, 139

 Night Gowns, 45

 ---- Stockings, 122

 Open Cross Stitch, 108

 ---- Crochet, 143

 ---- Hem, 107

 ---- Work Stockings, 121

 Ornamental Ladder Stitch, 108

 Over Shoe, 114

 Pantry Linen, 56

 Pattern for a Light Scarf, 120

 Patterns on Canvas, 86

 Pearl Stitch, 99

 Perforated Card, 86, 89

 Petticoat Crochet Edging, 149

 Petticoats, 46

 ----, Flannel, 46

 Pillow Covers, 54

 Pinafore, 47

 Pincushion Covers, 55

 Pine Apple Purse, 115

 ---- ---- Stitch, 108

 Piping, 60

 Plain Crochet, 143

 ---- Crochet Bag, in Silk, 151

 ---- ---- Purse, 152

 ---- Double Crochet, 143

 ---- Knitted Muffatees, 120

 ---- ---- Gentleman's Purse, 139

 ---- Netted Mittens, 139

 ---- Netting, 126

 ---- Open Netting, 133

 ---- ---- Stitch, 109

 ---- ---- Elastic Crochet, 144

 ---- Stitch Open Crochet, 143

 ---- Scarf, 48

 ---- Scollop, 140

 Plaiting, 60

 Pockets, 48

 Point Stitch, 68, 88

 Porcupine Stitch, 109

 Princess Royal, 74, 88

 Pudding Cloth, 58

 Purse, with China Silk, 135

 Queen Stitch, 68

 Queen's Vandyke, 68

 Quilts, 54

 Raised Embroidery, 80

 ---- Stitch, A, 145

 ---- Work, 93

 Raising, 99

 Rib, To, 99

 Ribbon Scarf, 48

 Roman Pattern, 74

 Round Netting, 133

 Rough Cast Stitch, 110

 Row, A, 99

 Rug Bordering, 87, 88

 Running, 29

 Russian Pattern, 74

 Scale of Canvases, 21

 Seam, To, 99

 Seam Purse, with Beads, 135

 Serpentine Stitch, 35

 Sewing and Felling, 29

 Shaded Silk Netting, 129

 Sheets, 54

 Shifts, 50

 Shirts, 51

 Single Plait Stitch, 68

 Slip Stitch, 100

 Socks, 122

 Sofa Pillow, 150

 Star Pattern, 90

 ---- Tatting, 154

 ---- with Eight Points, 116

 Stitches in Crochet, 142

 Stitching, 30

 Stitch, To take in a, 147

 ----, To increase or decrease a, 145

 ----, To incr. In Crochet, 147

 Stitches, To cast on the Loops or, 98

 Stockings, 120

 Straight Cross Stitch, 65

 Strong Knitted Purse, 114

 Suggestions as to Patterns, 77

 Table Cloths, 56

 ---- Linen, 56

 Tatting, Open Stitch, 153

 Tent Stitch, 64

 Thread, To bring forward a, 100

 ----, To carry on a, in Double Crochet, 146

 Towels, 55

 Travelling Shawl, 50

 Treble Open Crochet, 144

 True Stitch, 145

 Tucks, 60

 Turkish Pattern for a Table Cover, 151

 Veils, 52

 Velvet Stitch, 69

 Victoria Pattern, 75

 Wave Pattern, 75

 ---- Knitting, 110

 Welts, 100

 Whipping, 31

 Windsor Pattern, 76

 Wire Work, 87, 89

 Working Berlin Pattern, 93

 ---- Figures, 89, 92

 Zephyr, A, 114

THE END. 

Transcriber's Note

The following typographical errors were corrected. 

 iv human felicity changed to human felicity. V fair one changed to fair one. V then, how, to fabricate changed to then, how to fabricate vi form and utilty changed to form and utility ix netting of a purse, changed to netting of a purse. 18 very difficult t changed to very difficult to 19 both sides, This changed to both sides. This 20 MATERIALS FOE changed to MATERIALS FOR 21 Knitting Netting, changed to Knitting, Netting, 22 than others changed to than others. 22 Wool. --This changed to WOOL. --This 22 yarn, for mitts, changed to yarn, for mitts. 24 her to devise changed to her to devise. 25 Tissue Paper changed to Tissue Paper. 27 extacy;" changed to extacy; 27 native sky. Changed to native sky. " 28 principal stiches changed to principal stitches 29 thread with out changed to thread without 30 GATHERING changed to GATHERING. 30 are gathered, Then changed to are gathered. Then 33 appropriate situations changed to appropriate situations. 34 intricate to describle changed to intricate to describe 36 must take grest changed to must take great 38 visiter changed to visitor 41 colico, ore changed to calico, are 44 ADIES' NIGHT JACKETS. Changed to LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS. 48 wrong, side changed to wrong side 48 PLAIN SCARF changed to PLAIN SCARF. 51 Another meth d changed to Another method 55 into the other, changed to into the other. 60 in the middle changed to in the middle. 60 like a star changed to like a star. 64 painting in oil, changed to painting in oil. 65 CROSS STITCH changed to CROSS STITCH. 65 This is a stich changed to This is a stitch 66 arrangment changed to arrangement 67 same color changed to same color. 70 unavailable repentance changed to unavailable repentance. 71 increas-increasing changed to increasing 72 inprovement changed to improvement 76 is complete changed to is complete. 76 ane xtremly changed to an extremely fn 79-* The footnote marker was missing on the footnote 80 CHENILLE EMBROIDERY changed to CHENILLE EMBROIDERY. 81 perseverence changed to perseverance 83 restored to changed to resorted to 84 braided with ther changed to braided with their 85 lavendar changed to lavender 88 CHAPTER X changed to CHAPTER X. 88 considerable size changed to considerable size. 89 assidously changed to assiduously 93 the, first changed to the first 96 forgotton changed to forgotten 96 incovenience changed to inconvenience 98 Lee. , M. A, changed to Lee, M. A. , 98 first intoduction changed to first introduction 98 the means changed to the means, 99 PEARL STITCH changed to PEARL STITCH. 100 NOTE, in cas tingon changed to NOTE, in casting on 102 other three stiches changed to other three stitches 102 that tbe pins changed to that the pins 103 previous methods changed to previous methods. 104 stitches, you choose changed to stitches you choose 104 taking careto changed to taking care to 106 loops, and kniting changed to loops, and knitting 107 knit three siitches changed to knit three stitches 111 preceeding changed to preceding 112 five rows o changed to five rows of 113 ancle changed to ankle 113 each stitch; The changed to each stitch. The 114 fringe and borber changed to fringe and border 115 knitting three stiches changed to knitting three stitches 118 when it ouccurs changed to when it occurs 120 PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF changed to PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF. 120 generaly changed to generally 122 every other stich changed to every other stitch 123 Eleventh row plain changed to Eleventh row plain. 123 make a siitch changed to make a stitch 123 knit two togteher changed to knit two together 124 twenty-seeond changed to twenty-second 127 bottom of the preceeding changed to bottom of the preceding 128 For the fouth changed to For the fourth 129 principal beauty changed to principal beauty. 131 the end Work changed to the end. Work 134 You every is missing a word, probably "work. " This change was not made in the text 134 succeding changed to succeeding 135 ninety-eight stiiches changed to ninety-eight stitches 136 net seven stiches changed to net seven stitches 137 double silk changed to double silk. 137 to the whole, changed to to the whole. 140 loop Net changed to loop. Net 143 can be be varied changed to can be varied 144 each square, changed to each square. 145 back or the changed to back of the 145 loose in each changed to lose in each 145 TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH. Changed to TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH. 145 conceal the the half changed to conceal the half 146 means meaking changed to means making 150 This is done it changed to This is done in 152 same color changed to same color. 153 Take you tatting changed to Take your tatting 157 of a highe changed to of a higher 160 puposes of selfish changed to purposes of selfish 161 sooth changed to soothe 163 Bedroom changed to Bed-room 163 ---- on Gathers changed to ---- ---- on Gathers 164 Tatting Edging changed to Tatting Edging, 164 Fan-tail changed to Fantail 165 Travelling Cap changed to Travelling Cap, 165 Imitation Network changed to Imitation Net-work

The Index has been standardized to have a, between the index entryand the page number. 

The following words had inconsistent spelling and hyphenation. 

 cross-way / crossway honey-comb / honeycomb indispensible / indispensable needle-woman / needlewoman needle-work / needlework net-work / network pin-cushion / pincushion vitalized / vitalised