THE KHAKI KOOK BOOK

 A COLLECTION OF A HUNDRED CHEAP AND PRACTICAL RECIPES MOSTLY FROM HINDUSTAN. 

 _By_ MARY KENNEDY CORE Bareilly, India. 

 PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY THE ABINGDON PRESS

 Copyright, 1917, by Mary Kennedy Core. 

Preface. 

WHY THIS LITTLE BOOK. 

About ten years ago the idea of writing a little cook book had itsbirth. We were in Almora that summer. Almora is a station far up in theHimalayas, a clean little bazaar nestles at the foot of enclosingmountains. Dotting the deodar-covered slopes of these mountains are thepicturesque bungalows of the European residents, while towering aboveand over all are the glistening peaks of the eternal snows. 

[Illustration]

We love to think of this particular summer, for Lilavate Singh was withus. The thought of her always brings help and inspiration. 

One day she prepared for the crowd of us a tiffin of deliciousHindustani food. That afternoon while we were sitting under the shadeand fragrance of the deodar trees, we praised the tiffin. Before we knewit we were planning a cook book. It was to be a joint affair ofHindustani and English dishes, and Miss Singh was to be responsible forthe Hindustani part of it. Our enthusiasm grew. For three or four dayswe talked of nothing else. We experimented, we planned; we dreamed, wewrote. But alas! other things soon thrust themselves upon us, and ourunfinished cook book was pigeon-holed for years and years. 

And it is not now what it would have been if finished then. 

Many of the recipes, however, are those that Miss Singh gave us then. Some of them she might not recognize, for they have become quiteAmericanized, but they are hers nevertheless, and I hope that you willnot only try them and enjoy them, but that they will help you to solvesome of the problems of living and giving which are confronting us allthese days. 

I have told this story before, but it fits in well here. A lady in Indiaonce had an ayah, who from morning until night sang the same sad song asshe would wheel the baby in its little go-cart up and down the mandal ordriveway; as she would energetically jump it up and down; as she wouldlazily pat it to sleep, always and ever she could be heard chantingplaintively, "Ky a ke waste, Ky a ke waste, pet ke waste, pet ke waste. "

The lady's curiosity was aroused. The words were simple enough, butthey had no sense: "For why? For why? For why? For stomach! For stomach!For stomach!" wailed the ayah. 

Desiring to know what was for why, and what was for stomach one day, thelady called the ayah to her and sought the interpretation thereof. 

"This is the meaning, Oh mem sahiba, " said the ayah: "Why do we live?What is the meaning of our existence? To fill our stomachs, to fill ourstomachs. "

You may smile at this and feel sorry for the poor benighted Hindu, whohas such a low ideal of the meaning of life, but after all we cannotignore the fact that we must eat, and that much as we dislike toacknowledge it, we are compelled to think a great deal about filling ourstomachs. This is especially true these days, when prices have soaredand soared and taken along with them, far out of the reach of many ofus, certain articles of food which we heretofore have always felt werequite necessary to us. 

The missionary on furlough is naturally regarded as a bureau ofinformation regarding the land where he has lived and worked. Many arethe questions asked. These questions are inclusive of life andexperience in general, but in particular they are regarding the food. "What do you eat there? Do you get meat there? What kind of vegetablesgrow there? What about the fruit of India? Why don't missionaries dotheir own cooking? Do the cooks there cook well? Aren't you always gladto get back to the food in America?" These and similar questions aresure to be asked the missionary and others who have lived in foreigncountries. 

Feeling sure that everybody wants to know these very things about India, it might be well just here to answer some of these questions. 

In regard to the meat in India: The Hindus are vegetarians, but theMohammedans are great meat eaters. So are the English. Meat can be hadalmost every place. The kind of meat differs much in locality. Chickenscan be obtained anywhere. The Indian cock is small of head and long ofleg, shrill of voice and bold in spirit. The Indian hen is shy and wild, but gives plenty of small, delicately-flavored eggs. On the whole, asidefrom a few idiosyncrasies, the Indian fowl is very satisfactory. 

In large cities like Bombay, Calcutta, Lucknow, Madras, etc. , wherethere is a large English population, any kind of meat may be obtained. In other places only goat meat can be obtained. This is especially truein many hill stations. Even in small places, if there happens to be alarge Mohammedan population, good beef and mutton can be obtained in thecold weather, and in many larger places where there are few Mohammedansno meat of any kind is to be found excepting chicken, and one usuallyhas to raise them himself. 

Meat is cheap in India. Indeed, in some places beef can be bought fortwo cents a pound. However, it is not so good as is the beef in America. In the hot weather, as it has to be eaten almost as soon as it iskilled, it is tough and tasteless. 

Vegetables differ, too, according to the locality. If Mrs. A, returnedmissionary from India, pathetically states that year in and year out shenever gets _any_ home vegetables, and thereby causes everybody to pityher, and if Mrs. B, returned missionary from India, boasts that she getsplenty of home vegetables, even better than she could get in America, and thereby causes everybody to envy her, don't think that either Mrs. Aor Mrs. B have fibbed. Mrs. B lives up north and Mrs. A lives south, andboth speak truthfully. 

The same is true in regard to fruits. Certain fruits, such as the citrusfruits, the unexcelled mango, bananas, etc. , are found all over India;but in certain sections there are not only these, but all the homefruits. This section is to the north and northwest. Pears, apples, peaches, plums--in fact, any fruit that can be grown any place in theworld can be grown successfully in this favored section of India. 

"Why don't missionary ladies do their own cooking?"

The idea seems to be abroad that the reason that missionaries in Indiado not do more manual labor is because they have a certain dignity thatthey must maintain; that they would lose caste and influence should theydo menial work of any kind. This is quite a mistaken idea. One of thethings that a missionary stands for is serving, serving by hands andfeet as well as by brain and spirit. The simple reason is thatmissionaries are employed by the missionary society to do other things. It isn't a question of giving eight hours a day to mission work, butit's a question of giving all the time. 

But suppose she hadn't her hands so full of mission work, even then shecould not do her own cooking. 

Perhaps she might do some of it if she had an up-to-date little kitchen, with linoleum on the floor, if there were a sink and a gas range, andall sorts of lovely pots and pans, but alas! in India there is not evena kitchen. It is a cook-house, and is quite detached from the rest ofthe house. If she cooked there, the missionary lady would have to keeprunning back and forth in the hot sun or in the pouring rain of themonsoon. There is no linoleum--only a damp, uneven stone floor, andthere is no sink--all the work requiring water is done on the floor bya drain-pipe, and sometimes if the screen gets broken over the mouth ofthe drain-pipe, toads come hopping in, and sometimes even cobras comesquirming through. The Indian cook-house is always dark and smoky. Thereis no little gas range; just a primitive cooking place made of bricksplastered together. This contains a number of holes in which areinserted grates. Charcoal fires are burning in these little grates. Charcoal has to be fanned and fanned with a black and grimy fan to getit into the glowing stage. Of course a clean fan would do as well, butone never sees a clean fan in an Indian cook-house. 

However, do not suppose for a minute that the missionary lady has noresponsibility regarding the cooking. She has. She cooks with her nervesand brains. She has to train up the cook in the way he should go, andafter he has gotten into the way, she has to walk along by his side, forshe must be brains for him for ever and ever. She has to see that hewalks in paths of truth and uprightness. She has to keep everythingunder lock and key, and is apt to lose her keys when she is in thebiggest hurry. She is also apt to lose her temper, and feels worse overthis than she does when she loses her keys. She has to argue overprices; to fuss over the quality of charcoal consumed. She has to keepher poise when, after ordering something especially nice for dinner, the cook proudly passes around something quite different and not at allnice. She dare not even visit her own cook-house without coughing andmaking a noise, for fear that she will have a case of discipline onhands that may leave her without a cook. Verily, she is not deceived bythe fact that when she enters the cook-house the cook and half a dozenother men who have been playing cards and smoking are respectivelystanding around like little tin soldiers. She _sees_ the hooka or bigwater pipe standing behind the door, and she _knows_ that the bearer hasa deck of cards up his sleeves. But even knowing this, all she can do isto meekly transact her business with the cook and go out without sayinga word. 

However, in spite of all this, the Indian cook is a great comfort. Hegrows on one. It is surprising how equal he is to emergencies and whatreally fine things he can make with very few conveniences and often avery stinted allowance of material. There are very few of them who donot take pride in their cooking, and they are never happier than whenthere are guests in the home and they are having a chance to show off. Nor are they uncleanly, as is often supposed, but they keep theirkitchen in such mild disorder that things really appear much worse thanthey really are. 

And now for the last question. Often and often we are asked, "Aren'tyou glad to get back to the food in America?" My answer is, "Rather, "and it is to be spoken with a rising inflection. 

We love the American people, and we enjoy the American food, but wethink that when it comes to making nice tasty somethings out of almostnothing, America is not in it at all. Nearly every nation in the worldcan do better. 

I hope these recipes will help. 

Contents. 

 Page

 CHAPTER I. CURRY 15

 1. Curry Powder. 2. Beef Curry. 3. Chicken Curry. 4. Curry with Curds. 5. Meat Curry with Pastry. 6. Meat Curry with Cabbage. 7. Meat and Split Pea Curry. 8. Massala Fry. 9. Hamburg Steak Curry. 10. Cold Meat Curry. 11. Buffath, or Curry with Vegetables. 12. Buffath of Cold Meat and Vegetables. 13. Fish Curry. 14. Curry from Tinned Salmon, Sardines, or Tuna. 15. Salt Fish Curry. 16. Massala Fry of Fish. 17. Egg Curry. 18. Poached Egg Curry. 19. Eggplant Curry. 20. Curried Stuffed Eggplant. 21. Stuffed Curried Mango Peppers. 22. Mixed Vegetable Curry. 23. Split Pea Curry. 24. Edible Leaves Curry. 

 CHAPTER II. SAVORY DISHES FROM OTHER COUNTRIES 30

 25. Mulligatawney Soup. 26. Tamales (Mexican). 27. Koorma (Arabian). 28. Spiced Beef. 29. Irish Stew (Old English). 30. Mesopotamia Stew. 31. French Stew. 32. Turkish Stew. 33. All Blaze. 34. Country Captain. 35. Toad in Hole. 36. Minced Meat Patties. 37. Hamburg Cutlets. 38. Potato Patties with Fish or Meat. 39. Beef Olives. 40. Bird Nests. 41. Eggplant Patties. 42. Spanish Steak. 43. Spanish Welsh Rarebit. 44. Kabobs. 45. Char-chiz. 46. Spanish Eggs. 

 CHAPTER III. SPLIT PEAS OR DAL 43

 47. Split Pea Soup. 48. Dal Soup with Milk. 49. Kidgeri. 50. Armenian Kidgeri. 51. Dal Bhat. 

 CHAPTER IV. RICE 46

 52. Plain Boiled Rice. 53. Pesh-Pash. 54. Pullao. 55. Beef or Mutton Pullao. 56. Spanish Rice. 57. Pea Pullao. 58. Cocoanut Rice. 59. Meat and Rice Hash. 60. Rice Cutlets. 61. Fried Rice (Parsi). 

 CHAPTER V. BUJEAS 54

 62. Potato Bujea. 63. Banana Bujea. 64. Summer Squash Bujea. 65. Cabbage Bujea. 66. Radish Bujea. 67. Tomato Bujea. 

 CHAPTER VI. BREADS 57

 68. Chupatties. 69. Chupatties (Americanized). 70. Prahatas. 71. Potato Puris. 72. White Flour Puris. 73. Sweet Potato Puris. 

 CHAPTER VII. PICKLES AND CHUTNEYS 61

 74. Kausaundi Pickle (Americanized). 

 CHAPTER VIII. CHUTNEY 63

 75. Lemon Chutney. 76. Apple Chutney. 77. Rhubarb Chutney. 78. Carrot Pickle. 79. Mixed Vegetable Pickle. 

 CHAPTER IX. MOST EVERYTHING 66

 80. Puff Paste. 81. Cheese Cakes. 82. Banana Stew with Cocoanut. 83. Roselle Jelly. 84. Roselle Sauce. 85. Tipparee Jam. 86. Orange Marmalade. 87. Orange Jelly. 88. Candied Grapefruit Peel. 89. Banana Cheese. 90. Carrot Cheese. 91. Fruit Cheese. 92. Fools. 93. Jellabies. 94. Gulab Jamans. 95. Malpuas. 96. Crow's Nest Fritters. 97. Hulwa. 98. Bombay Hulwa. 99. Turkish Delight. 100. Frosted Bananas. 101. Sujee Puffs. 102. Breadcrumb Balls. 103. Sujee Biscuits. 

The Khaki Kook Book. 

I. 

Curry. 

Many regard curry as one of the new things in cookery. This is amistake. Curry is an old, old method of preparing meats and vegetables. Nor is it an East Indian method exclusively. In all Oriental andtropical countries foods are highly seasoned, and although the spicesmay differ, and although the methods of preparation may not be the same, nevertheless, generally speaking, the people of all Oriental countriesfreely indulge in curried food. 

[Illustration: MAKING CHUPATTIES]

However, in India curry reaches its perfection. The people of Indiasince Vedic times have eaten curry and always will. They eat it very, very hot, and Europeans who live in India soon find themselves fallinginto the habit of eating very hot and spicy foods. Whether it is goodfor one to eat as much hot stuff as one is expected to eat in India is adisputed point. In moderation, however, curry is not harmful, and is avery satisfactory and appetizing way of preparing scrappy andinexpensive meats. If carefully prepared, everybody is sure to like it. Do not introduce it, however, to your family as a mustard-colored stewof curry powder, onions, and cold meat served in the center of a platterwith a wall of gummy rice enclosing it. Most of the family would hateit, and it would be difficult to get them to the point of even tastingit again. Curry, as usually made in India, is not made with curry powderat all. Every Indian cook-house is provided with a smooth black stoneabout a foot and a half long and a foot wide. There is also a smallstone roller. On this large stone, by means of the small stone, dailyare crushed or ground the spices used in making curry. The usualingredients are coriander seeds and leaves, dried hot chilies orpeppers, caraway seeds, turmeric, onions, garlic, green ginger, andblack pepper grains. All these are first crushed a little and thenground to a paste, with the addition from time to time of a littlewater. 

Now of course no American housewife would want to squat on the floor andgrind up curry stuff on a stone, as do the women of India. So I hastento say that very good curry may be made from curry powder. Curry powdermay be obtained from almost any grocer. The best in the market is Cross& Blackwell's. 

A good plan, however, would be to make your own curry powder. It isbetter, much cheaper, and is very little trouble to make. 

The following formula is excellent:

1. Curry Powder. 

 10 ounces of coriander seed; 1 teaspoon of caraway seed; 1 teaspoon of black pepper; 1 teaspoon of red pepper; 6 teaspoons of turmeric; 4 tablespoons of flour; 1 teaspoon of cloves; 4 teaspoons of cinnamon; Seeds of six cardamons. 

The coriander and turmeric may have to be purchased at a drug store. Buyas many of the spices ground as you can, and grind the others in a smallhand-mill or coffee-mill. Sift together three or four times and drythoroughly in an expiring oven. Put in air-tight bottles. A pound ofmeat will require about two teaspoons of this mixture. If not hot enoughadd more red pepper. 

_Coriander. _--You will note that coriander is the chief ingredient ofcurry powder. Coriander is used extensively in flavoring throughout theEast. It can be grown any place, however. The seed can be obtained fromany large florist. It grows rank like a weed. The leaves are deliciousas a flavoring for meats and vegetables. A patch of this in yourvegetable garden will repay you, as many a bit of left-over can be madevery tasty by using a little of the finely minced leaf. The seeds areuseful in many ways. 

_Fresh Cocoanut_ is another ingredient frequently used in makingcurries. This gives a delicious flavor and also adds greatly to thenutritive value. A cocoanut paste is prepared by a very elaborateprocess in the Indian cook-house, but in this country we are not onlyconfronted by the problem of living on our so many dollars a month, butalso by the equally great one of living on twenty-four hours a day. Sowe will pass the method of preparing cocoanut by with the suggestionthat you buy your prepared cocoanut. Baker puts up an excellentpreparation of fresh cocoanut with the milk. This comes in small tins atten cents a tin. 

Making curry is a very elastic method. Much depends upon the taste ofthe individual. Some think a teaspoonful of prepared mustard orWorcestershire sauce a great improvement. 

_Always get cheap cuts of meat for curry. _ The hock or heel of beefmakes perhaps as fine curry as any other cut. 

There are many different kinds of curries. Some are so hot that theconsumer thereof may feel that he is the possessor of an internal fieryfurnace. Some are mustard-colored, some are almost black, some are thinand watery, some are thick, some are greasy, and some would be quiteimpossible for America. 

Onions are always used in making curry, but do not let this discourageany one who does not like onions. One reason that onions are sounpopular is that so often they are improperly cooked. In making curryonions should be cooked until they are perfectly soft. Indeed theyshould be reduced to a pulp. This pulp helps thicken the curry gravy, and many people who claim that they cannot eat onions really enjoy themwithout realizing what they are eating. 

The recipes which follow are all practical, inexpensive, delicious, andthoroughly reliable. 

2. Beef Curry. 

Cut a pound of fresh beef into bits. Any cheap cut does well for this. Slice an onion very thinly, and fry together in a dessert-spoonful offat of any kind, the meat, onion, and two teaspoonfuls of curry powder. When they are nicely browned add several cups of water and simmer gentlyuntil the meat is very tender and the onion has become a pulp, therebythickening the curry gravy. This requires long, slow cooking. More watermay be added from time to time. If one has a fireless cooker, it shouldalways be used in curry making. Serve with rice prepared according totaste. In India, curry and rice are always served in separate dishes. The rice is served first and the curry taken out and put over it. Usually chutney (Chapter VIII) is eaten with curry and rice. 

3. Chicken Curry. 

Cut a chicken up any way you like and fry it with one thinly-slicedonion and the curry powder. The amount of curry powder will of coursedepend on the size of the chicken. Fry together until the chicken isnicely browned, then add water and simmer until chicken is tender. Remember always to reduce the gravy by slow cooking until it is somewhatthickened by the onion pulp. A couple of sliced tomatoes fried with thechicken, onion, and curry powder is much liked by some--not only inchicken curry, but in all curries. 

4. Curry With Curds. 

This curry is prepared a little differently. Place in a deep dish onepound of beef or mutton or any kind of meat. Cover with thick curds ofmilk. These curds should not be too sour. Also add a green mango pepperthinly sliced, and if desired a clove of garlic, finely minced. Letstand in the curds for a couple of hours. In the meantime fry an onionand two teaspoonfuls of curry powder together. When nicely browned addthe curd mixture. Cook over a slow fire until meat is tender. Coldsliced meat is very good prepared this way. In this case cook the onionsthoroughly before adding the curd mixture. The meat should be cut insmall pieces. 

5. Meat Curry with Pastry. 

Prepare the curry as in No. 1, adding the dumplings after the meat istender. For the dumplings, mix half a cup of flour into a stiff doughwith water. Add a little salt, and roll out very thin. Cut in two-inchsquares. Some like a little fresh cocoanut and cocoanut milk added tothis curry. 

6. Meat Curry with Cabbage. 

Half a pound of meat is plenty for this very hearty and inexpensivedish. 

Fry the onion, curry powder, and meat together in the usual way. Whennicely browned, add several cups of thinly-shredded or sliced cabbage. Cover with water and simmer slowly until all are tender. Just beforeserving acidulate. In India, tamarind juice is always used for thispurpose, but lemon or lime does very nicely. Carrots or turnips may beused the same way and are excellent. Eat with or without rice. Usuallythis curry is eaten with chupatties (No. 69). 

7. Meat and Split Pea Curry. 

Cut a half pound of beef or mutton into small bits and fry as usual withonions and curry powder. When nicely browned add a cup of split peaswhich have been soaking for several hours. Simmer all together in plentyof water until the meat and peas are tender. Serve with rice. 

8. Massala Fry. 

This is not really a curry, but is an excellent way of preparing toughround steak. 

Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry powder into a half cup of flour, and poundby means of a saucer into a pound of round steak. Fry the steak with asliced onion until quite brown. Then add a little water and simmer untilthe meat is tender. The gravy should be little and rich. Do not cut themeat. This is a fine casserole dish. 

9. Hamburg Steak Curry. 

Fry together a pound of hamburg steak, a cup of minced onions, and twoteaspoonfuls of curry powder. When these are quite brown simmer with alittle water until onions are soft. This can either be served rather dryor with plenty of gravy. In the latter case, serve with rice or kidgeri(No. 49). A teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce is a help to this curry. This curry is very nice and is quickly made. Made dry, a little jar ofit taken to a picnic or on a trip will be found very useful, as it keepsfor days. Indeed, all curried meats keep longer than meats prepared inother ways. Hamburg steak curry makes fine sandwiches. 

10. Cold Meat Curry. 

Any kind of cold meat may be made into curry. Fry onions and currypowder together until nicely browned. Then add enough flour to thicken, as in making gravy. Then add water or cocoanut milk. When gravy hasthickened, add cold meat. Simmer slowly for a while. This curry is notso tasty as those made from fresh meat, and it is well to add ateaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. 

11. Buffath, or Curry with Vegetables. 

Fry one-half pound of meat, finely diced, with onion and curry powder. Add a little water from time to time, so that the meat will be tenderand the onions soft. Then add two teacupfuls of water. As soon as waterboils add a cupful of sliced radishes, potatoes, carrots, or anyvegetables that will not mash. Cook slowly together until vegetables aresoft. In India this curry is always acidulated, but that is notnecessary. It is a good plan, however, to always serve sliced lemon withall curries, as some prefer them sour. 

12. Buffath of Cold Meat and Vegetables. 

Prepare a sauce or gravy, as in No. 10. Add cold meat and any left-overcold vegetable. Simmer gently together for a little while. Do not havetoo much sauce. 

13. Fish Curry. 

Fish curry is usually made with cocoanut milk instead of water, but thisis not necessary. It should always be acidulated. 

Prepare a sauce, as in No. 10, using, if preferred, cocoanut milkinstead of water. Also add a little finely-minced garlic and greenpeppers. Put the raw fish in this and simmer together until the fish iscooked. Serve with rice. Spanish rice is excellent with fish curry. (No. 56. )

14. Curry from Tinned Salmon, Sardines, or Tuna. 

Prepare a sauce as in No. 10, using cocoanut milk and a little gratedcocoanut. Also add a tiny bit of thinly-sliced green ginger, garlic, andchili pepper. Pour over the fish, and serve with rice and sliced lemon. 

15. Salt Fish Curry. 

Cut the salt fish into rather small pieces, and soak until no longervery salty. 

While it is soaking, fry in plenty of oil or crisco one bunch of greenonions, cut up tops and all, a teaspoonful of curry powder, and threehalf-ripe tomatoes. The tomatoes may be dipped in batter or crumbs. Whenthese are fried add the salt fish. Simmer together for a while. Servewith rice. Eggplant is excellent in this curry instead of tomatoes. 

16. Massala Fry of Fish. 

Make a paste of flour and water and two teaspoons of curry powder and alittle salt. Dip the fish in this curried paste, and then dip again inbread or cracker crumbs. Fry in the usual way. This is a delicious wayof preparing any kind of cutlets or chops. In fact, any kind of meat maybe fried in the same way. 

17. Egg Curry. 

Fry a sliced onion with a teaspoonful of curry powder; then add a littleflour for the gravy. When this is mixed quite smooth, add a teacup ofwater or milk or cocoanut milk. Cook until it thickens, then add sixhard-boiled eggs. Cut in halves lengthwise. Serve with rice. 

18. Poached Egg Curry. 

Prepare the curry as for No. 17. When gravy begins to simmer, poach theeggs in it. 

19. Eggplant Curry. 

Cut round slices of eggplant. Remove the outer rind, dip each slice inbatter and fry. 

Make the curry sauce in the usual way. When it thickens, carefully putin the eggplant; simmer gently together until the vegetables are wellcooked. This is excellent made with half-ripe tomatoes. In each case itis a fine meat substitute. Always serve with rice. 

20. Curried Stuffed Eggplant. 

Make a curry mince as for No. 9. See that when the meat is cooked thereis plenty of liquid. Thicken this mince and gravy with bread crumbs andlet stand. Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise, and steam or bake in avery slow oven. When about half cooked, scoop out the center of abouteach half. Be careful to save the vegetable that you scoop out and mixit with the curry and breadcrumb mixture. Stuff the eggplant shell withthis mixture, cover the top with crumbs, and bake. Excellent either hotor cold. A half pound of meat is enough to nicely stuff one eggplant. 

21. Stuffed Curried Mango Peppers. 

To prepare the mango peppers for stuffing, cut off the tops and removethe seeds. Let stand in salt water until required. Then prepare plentyof rice according to No. 52. Keep in a warm place until required. 

Fry Hamburg steak with onion and curry powder according to No. 9. Apound of steak will be plenty for a nice big dish of peppers. Use nowater in this mince, but when the meat and onions are partially friedadd a cupful of the boiled rice, and mix all together. Stuff the pepperswith this mixture of rice and meat. 

Put in a roaster and cover with tomato sauce. This sauce may be madefrom any tinned tomato soup, diluted and more highly seasoned, or it maybe made from stewed tomatoes from which the seeds and skins have beenremoved. Make sauce a little thick. Bake very slowly or steam. Servewith the remainder of the rice. 

This is such a hearty dish that one needs prepare nothing else to beserved with it. 

22. Mixed Vegetable Curry. 

All vegetables such as peas, beans, potatoes, carrots, etc. , makeexcellent curry. They may be either freshly prepared or left-overs. 

Fry them all together with plenty of onions in a little crisco; add asmuch curry powder as is desired. If tomatoes are not used, acidulate acombination of tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers. Makes a fine curry. These vegetable curries are usually eaten with chupatties (No. 69). 

23. Split Pea Curry. 

Soak the peas for two or three hours. Fry in the usual way the onion andcurry powder. A teaspoonful of curry powder is enough for a cupful ofsoaked peas. Mix the peas with the fried mixture. Add plenty of waterand cook until the peas are soft enough to mash up into a pulp. Servewith rice. An acid is desired with this curry. 

24. Edible Leaves Curry. 

This may not sound especially inviting, but in a pinch one might want totry it. The Hindus make curries from many things that we would throwaway. Turnip tops, beet tops, radish tops, the young and tender leavesof many jungle plants, also the leaves of many trees; all these are usedin making excellent curries. Dandelion greens, spinach, Swiss chard, mayall be used in the same way. Prepare the onion and curry powder in theusual way; then add the greens. It is a good plan to add a few potatoesto give body to the curry. Use very little water in cooking. Serve withpuris or chupatties. (Nos. 69, 71). 

[Illustration: TAJ MAHAL AGRA]

II. 

Savory Dishes from Other Countries. 

One of the economies in cooking is in the proper seasoning of foods. This is the secret of many an attractive dish made from left-overs, orcheap meats. Every garden should contain a little patch of mint, parsley, sage, coriander, while those who have no garden could easilygrow these in window boxes or pots. It is not an extravagance to have onhand plenty of pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, kitchen bouquet, andcondiments of various kinds. A little of these goes a long way inseasoning, and many a dish which would be very flat and unattractive, bytheir judicious use is made savory and satisfying. 

Garlic is also another seasoning which we use but little, but which isused most extensively throughout the Orient. If properly used it givesa delightful flavor to food. Very little is required. Indeed, often oneneeds to just rub the sides and bottom of the cooking vessel with thegarlic before putting it on the fire. The salad dish may be treated thesame way. However, very few would object to a little finely-mincedgarlic in almost any meat dish, and much in flavor is often gainedthereby. 

Most of the recipes which follow are quite new to Americans. 

25. Mulligatawney Soup. 

This is a very famous soup which has been associated with India sincethe beginning of the English regime. In India it is usually made withchicken, but beef or mutton do very nicely. Stew a pound of mutton. Scrappy mutton, such as neck or ribs, does very nicely. When meat istender remove from soup. 

Fry an onion with a teaspoonful of curry powder. When nicely brownedstir into it a tablespoonful of peanut butter; also about a half cup offresh cocoanut. Mix these up together to a smooth paste and add to themutton broth. Also pick the mutton from the bones and add to the soup. If the peanut butter does not thicken it sufficiently, thicken with alittle flour. Serve with rice. Sometimes the rice is boiled with themutton, but usually it is boiled separately (No. 52). Lemon juice isusually served with this soup. 

26. Tamales (Mexican). 

Take a pound of meat. Mutton, chicken, or beef may be used. It must becut in bits. If the meat has not sufficient fat, add crisco or butter, or whatever one uses. Stew until meat is very tender. Into this soup adda cup of tomato sauce or a cup of boiled and strained tomatoes highlyseasoned. Then stir in enough cornmeal to thicken it as for mush. Cookfor a few minutes and then turn all into a rice boiler or steamer, andcook until the cornmeal loses its raw taste. When a little cool, add afew raisins, ripe olives, almonds, or peanuts, the latter cut up fine. Make pretty hot with cayenne, and also add a little pimento. Mold intolittle rolls, and wrap each roll up in corn husks, tying each end, sothat the mixture will not escape. Just before eating, steam up again, and serve hot. If one is in a hurry, a dish can be lined with cornhusks, the mixture piled in, and corn husks placed over the top of thedish. This is called "tamale pie. " If corn husks are not available, itis very good without them. The mixture can either be steamed in a bowland turned out or it can be sliced cold and fried like mush. It is notnecessary to add the raisins, olives, and nuts unless one wants to berather luxurious. 

At the table open up the rolls, remove the husks, and eat with tomatosauce. A good sauce for tamales is made by stewing tomatoes with alittle onion and green pepper, straining and highly seasoning. Worcestershire sauce is always good in tamale sauce. 

This tamale mixture is fine for stuffing green mango peppers. Indeed, itmakes a fine forcemeat for most anything. 

27. Koorma (Arabian). 

Koorma is usually made from mutton or veal. Mince an onion, a littlegreen ginger, and a tiny bit of garlic and add to a cup of buttermilk. Cover a pound of mutton with this and allow to stand for a while. Themutton may either be fresh or left-over. While the mixture is standing, fry a minced onion; add to it a little turmeric. Turn the buttermilkmixture into this. If the meat is uncooked, also add a little water, sothat it may become tender; but this is unnecessary if cold mutton isused. Simmer slowly together until the meat gets tender and the curdsdry. At the last a little cocoanut may be added, but this is notnecessary. The gravy must be very little and very rich. 

28. Spiced Beef. 

This is a very nice way of keeping beef if the weather is hot and onehas no ice. Cut the meat up, salt a little, turn it into a bowl, andjust cover with vinegar. Sprinkle well with mixed spices. When ready touse, fry with tomatoes and onions. This may be kept for several dayswithout ice, even in the hottest weather. 

29. Irish Stew (Old English). 

Equal parts of meat and potatoes. Half a pound of meat and half a poundof potatoes makes quite a good-sized dish. Cook the meat with a slicedonion in plenty of water until it is almost tender. Then add thepotatoes; also a little mint or parsley, a tiny bit of green ginger, anda sprinkle of cinnamon, salt and plenty of pepper. Cook together untilall are sufficiently cooked. At the last, if mutton has been used, addhalf a cup of milk. Thicken a little if desired, only perhaps it is bestto cook it until potatoes begin to break, thickening it in that way. 

30. Mesopotamia Stew. 

Equal parts of meat and string beans. Fry together with or without anonion. When quite brown but not hard, season well in any way liked. InMesopotamia, of course it is made very hot. Cover with water and cookslowly until beans are soft and meat is tender. Less meat may be used. Beans and meat should both be cut up fine for this stew. 

31. French Stew. 

Take a pound of beef cut in small pieces and fry it until brown. Removeand fry in the same pan the following vegetables: Three small radishes, three small carrots, three small onions, half a dozen potatoes, a littlegreen ginger, a green chili or two, and three or four mint leaves. Theginger, chili, and mint leaves should be finely minced, but slice theother vegetables. When the vegetables are nicely browned, remove, make alittle gravy in the pan; pour this gravy over the meat, add thevegetables, and cook very slowly together until the meat is tender. Ifliked, it may be made with only potatoes and onions and meat. 

32. Turkish Stew. 

Fry a pound of meat cut in small pieces. Remove from the pan. In thesame pan fry eggplant, thinly sliced and rolled in batter and crumbs. Season as desired. Put a layer of the fried eggplant and a layer of thefried meat in a cooking vessel. Add a little water, and cook very slowlyuntil meat is tender. 

33. All Blaze. 

This is an old English dish, and is fine for the fireless cooker. Muttonis best for this dish. One pound of mutton, cut in bits, one-half poundof potatoes (quartered), peas, beans, onions, carrots, or any vegetablesone may have on hand. Put a layer of potatoes at bottom of the pan, thena layer of meat, then a layer of mixed vegetables. Repeat this, sprinkling salt and pepper over each layer and a little drippings. Putin a vessel with a very tight-fitting lid, so that no steam will escape, and steam or bake slowly for three or four hours. 

34. Country Captain. 

This is another English dish, and is a great favorite with the Indiancooks. Chicken is always used in India, but veal or mutton will donicely. Cut up the meat, slice four or five onions in rings, and setaside. Fry the chicken quickly over a hot fire, then fry the onions. With the onions fry some green chilies and a little green ginger; add acup or two of water and stew until chicken is tender. Do not thicken thegravy to this. Sprinkle fried onions over the platter when it is readyto serve. 

35. Toad in Hole. 

Make a batter just as you would for pancakes. Melt some butter or criscoin a baking dish and pour in half the batter. On this place a mixtureof meat, potatoes, and onions prepared as for No. 29. Pour over this theremainder of the batter and bake or steam. 

36. Minced Meat Patties. 

Prepare the mince according to No. 9. Make a piecrust, not too rich. Roll out paste, cut out in circles about three inches in diameter. Putin each of these circles a tablespoonful of the curried mince, and turnover, pressing the edges closely together. Fry or bake. 

37. Hamburg Cutlets. 

Take a pound of Hamburg steak, a minced onion, a minced mango pepper, aleaf or two of mint or coriander, a little salt and pepper, and very fewbread or cracker crumbs. Mix all together, mold in little oblong cakes, dip in a thin batter made of flour and water, and then in crumbs. Fry infat or oil. 

38. Potato Patties with Fish or Meat. 

Take equal parts of cold mashed potatoes and flour. Work together into apaste and roll out in circles about four inches in diameter. Place ineach of circles a spoonful of salmon or tuna; season rather highly, press edges together, and fry. Fine way to use cold mashed potatoes. Curried mincemeat may also be used for the filling. 

39. Beef Olives. 

Have the butcher cut a very thin round steak either of beef or veal. Cutthis in pieces about three inches square, and pound with a saucer abouta dessert-spoonful of flour into each of these pieces. Make ahighly-seasoned forcemeat of breadcrumbs and onions and a little mincedbacon. Place a spoonful of the stuffing on each square of meat, and rollin the form of a sausage. Wrap each roll with cord and tie. Fry therolls, then remove and make a gravy in the pan. When gravy is made, addthe rolls and stew gently until the rolls are tender. 

40. Bird Nests. 

Stew a pound of boiling meat with two sliced onions until the meat istender. Remove the meat and onions, and when cold pass through the meatgrinder. Season rather highly, add egg and breadcrumbs, and work alltogether as though for cutlets. If flour is worked well into it, no eggor crumbs will be required. 

Boil six eggs until quite hard. When cold, remove the shells. Encloseeach egg in the meat mixture. Roll in a thin batter, then in crumbs, andfry. When nicely browned, cut with a sharp knife through the center ofeach egg. Place on a platter, and pour over all a gravy made from thebroth in which the meat was boiled. This makes twelve birds' nests. 

A very attractive and delicious salad can be made by using veal orchicken instead of beef. The yolks of the eggs may be removed anddeviled or highly seasoned. Serve with mayonnaise dressing instead ofgravy. 

41. Eggplant Patties. 

Take two medium-sized eggplants, steam or bake until tender; then cutlengthwise into halves. Scoop out the pulp, cut the pulp in small bitsand set aside. Keep the skins for the patties. Mince an onion, brown itin oil or crisco. When nicely browned, add a quarter of a pound ofeither cold or raw minced meat, a little green mango pepper, and thepulp which was removed from the eggplant. A little Worcestershire sauceor piccalilli improves this considerably. Fill the empty shells withthis mixture. Cover with crumbs and bake. Large ripe cucumbers are goodprepared the same way. Only they should be peeled before steaming, andthe seeds should be carefully removed. If a gravy could be made of stockand poured over the patties it would be liked by many. 

42. Spanish Steak. 

Pound thoroughly by means of a saucer a half cup of flour with a poundof round steak. Then over a hot fire quickly fry the steak and remove. 

In the same pan fry two good-sized onions, thinly sliced, and half adozen good-sized tomatoes and one large mango pepper. If the pepper ismild, add cayenne pepper. When the onions begin to get soft and thetomatoes to dry, add the meat. Cook very slowly until meat is tender. 

One can use canned tomatoes very nicely for this. Cook onions andtomatoes and peppers together, with plenty of oil or crisco until theybegin to thicken. Then add the meat. This is also a very satisfactoryway of reserving cold steak or any kind of cold meat. After the tomatoand onion mixture is well cooked, add the cold meat and heat up alltogether. 

43. Spanish Welsh Rarebit. 

Fry in plenty of oil or butter or crisco a large sliced onion. Whenonion is partly done, add a tin of tomato soup or a cupful of stewedstrained tomatoes. Cook for a little while together, then add half apound of sharp cheese, three or four pimentos, and a small tin ofmushrooms; also add a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Cook alltogether slowly for a while, then pour over toast or crackers. This isalso called "rinktum ditty. "

44. Kabobs. 

This is a very popular dish among the Mohammedans. Kabobs are usuallycooked by the roadside and served piping hot to pedestrians. They arealso cooked on the platform of railway stations and handed out topassengers on the train. Season a pound of minced meat with pepper andsalt or any desired spices. Mix with a little flour to hold together. Make in the form of sausages by pressing around iron pins. Roast over ahot fire. These are delicious cooked at picnics. One can easily purchasethe iron pins or have them made. They are usually about a foot long anda quarter of an inch thick. If the meat is fat they easily slip from thepins; if it is lean, it is best to grease the pins first. 

45. Char-chiz. 

Fry together a cup of Hamburg steak, a cup of sliced tomatoes, a cup ofminced onions, and a cup of minced peppers. After they have fried untildry, add a cup of water and simmer all together for a while. Make quitehot and serve with boiled rice. 

46. Spanish Eggs. 

Fry the desired number of eggs very lightly in bacon fat. Just beforeremoving from the pan pour over them a sauce made by adding atablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce to any good catsup. Heat hastilytogether and serve. This is a fine meat substitute. 

[Illustration: STRAINING STARCH]

[Illustration: BULLOCK CART--DELHI]

III. 

Split Peas or Dal. 

Split peas, or "dal, " as they are called in India, belong to the lentilfamily. There are three kinds--the green, which very much resembles anordinary dried pea; the yellow, and the red. In this country we only seetwo kinds--the green and the yellow. The red are more frequently seen inIndia, and have a more delicate flavor. 

Lentils are an old, old food. We read of Esau selling his birthright fora mess of red pottage, or a mess of red dal. Then later we read of theHebrew children refusing to eat the king's meat, and growing rosy andfat on their daily portion of lentils. 

Lentils are rich in protein. About twenty-five per cent of their foodvalue is protein. They are richer in protein than beans, and are moredigestible. 

During Lent in the early days of the Roman Church, lentils were thechief article of food, because of meat being forbidden. Because of thisthe name lentil was given to them. 

Split peas are used universally throughout India. Several recipes havealready been given (Nos. 23 and 7), but a few others will be noted. 

47. Split Pea Soup. 

Soak a cup of peas over night and boil in three cups of water. Cookuntil peas are soft, then mash them quite smoothly. Then dilute withstock. This stock may be made from bones and cold meat or fresh meat. Fry an onion and add to the soup, and when ready to serve add mincedmint leaves and little squares of toast, fried very crisp. 

48. Dal Soup with Milk. 

Prepare the dal as above, except instead of diluting with stock dilutewith milk. 

49. Kidgeri. 

First soak a cup of split peas for about three hours. Then put them onto stew with two whole onions. When about half done add a cup of rice. The water must be about two inches above the split peas and rice. Cookuntil rice and peas are soft and the water is absorbed. Pour over allsome melted butter or crisco. Usually kidgeri is served with poachedeggs. Sometimes eggs are hard-boiled and sliced over the kidgeri afterit is dished. 

50. Armenian Kidgeri. 

Soak a cup of split peas for several hours, then fry with twothinly-sliced onions and a cup of rice. When slightly brown, cover withwater and boil. The water should be three inches above the peas andrice; also add a little bag of mixed spices. Fry some meat in a separatepan. It may be either beefsteak, Hamburg, or mutton. When rice and peasare soft, place a layer of meat in a dish and cover with a layer of therice and peas. Repeat until all are used, being careful to have the riceand peas on top. Steam together and serve with cocoanut and fried onionssprinkled over the top. 

51. Dal Bhat. 

Dal Bhat is the universal breakfast dish all over India. Prepare as forsplit pea curry (No. 23), but omit the curry powder, if desired. 

Often it is prepared by frying minced meat with the onions before thepeas are added. 

No food known gives as much real value for the cost as do lentils. Thegreen and yellow ones can be obtained very easily at any large grocery, and we urge all to give them a trial. 

IV. 

Rice. 

As a rule rice is badly cooked in the average American home. For thisreason last winter when there was a good deal of talk of rice as asubstitute for potatoes, very little enthusiasm was felt on the subject, and indeed when one thinks of the tasteless, gummy mess which is sooften put before the family, this lack of enthusiasm is not strange. However, rice properly prepared proves quite a formidable rival of thebeloved potato, and there are endless ways of preparing it if one onlyknows how. 

[Illustration: POUNDING RICE]

In the first place, very few know how to cook just plain boiled rice. Many know that there is a way of preparing it so that when done it willbe a fluffy mass of separate grains, but they have no idea how to goabout making it look like this. 

The process is very simple. Always use the unpolished rice. Rice with acreamy tinge is better than rice with a pearly white tinge, and the longgrain is better than the short. 

52. Plain Boiled Rice. 

For every cup of rice have about eight cups of water. Do not add therice until the water is boiling briskly. Then throw in the rice, andgive it an occasional stir until the water begins to boil again. Afterthat it need not be stirred. 

Cook until a grain feels soft when rubbed between the thumb and finger, then turn into a colander. Drain off the water and pour over the riceseveral cups of cold water. Drain that off, too, and place the ricewhere it can have moist heat for a while before serving. A good plan isjust to leave it in the colander and place it over a pan of boilingwater; or a steamer may be used for keeping it warm, or a double-boiler. By this method every grain is separate. Rice served with curry is alwaysprepared in this way. It may be served in place of potatoes with meat, and may also be used as a basis for many inexpensive and attractivedishes, just as macaroni and spaghetti are. 

There is one objection, however, to rice prepared in this way. A gooddeal of the nutritive value is lost down the sink-drain. In India thisis not the case, for every ounce of rice water is there carefully saved. It is used in various ways. Usually it is fed to the babies and weakerchildren. Often it is given to ducks and fowl to fatten them, andsometimes it is put into the curry pot. 

There is another method of preparing rice which is almost assatisfactory, and by which all the nutrition is retained. That is bycooking it in a regular rice boiler. Put just enough water over the riceto well cover it. After the water in the lower vessel has boiled awhile, if the rice seems a little dry, add more water. Cook until therice is soft, then turn the fire very low, so that the water in thelower vessel does not boil but retains its heat. Let stand for a whilebefore serving, and the rice will be almost as fluffy and white asthough blanched by the cold water process. 

53. Baby's Pesh-Pash. 

This is the first solid food that babies of English or American parentsin India are allowed. 

Take about a quarter of a pound of lean mutton and cook until it isperfectly soft. Shred it finely and return to the broth. Cook atablespoonful of rice in this broth and shredded mutton. Cook slowlyand let every grain swell to its utmost. "Babies cry for it, and thedoctors pronounce it harmless. " It is also very good for theconvalescent. 

54. Pullao. 

Pullao is the most festive dish in India. It stands for all that roastturkey does in this country. At weddings, feasts, and holidays it is thechief dish. Among the Hindustani Christians it is the Christmas dinner. Sometimes it is served with rivers of hot curry flowing over it, butoften it is eaten without the curry. In India it is usually made withchicken, but any kind of meat does nicely. 

For chicken pullao, take a good fat hen, not too old, cut up and stewuntil almost tender. Put a little bag of "mixed spices, " such as areused in making pickles, on to cook with the fowl. While the fowl iscooking take about a pound of rice and fry it with a few sliced onionsand a little butter or crisco. When the chicken is nearly done, add thefried rice and onions to the chicken and chicken broth. Put all in arice boiler if you have it and cook slowly until the rice is done. Retain the spices. If rice boiler is used there should be at least twoinches of broth above the mixture. If you have no rice boiler, but mustboil it on the stove, more broth will be required. In the latter casedo not cook until it becomes soggy. Cook until the broth is absorbed, then steam. 

While the rice is cooking fry a few more onions with a handful ofalmonds and raisins. When the pullao is ready to be served, pile on aplatter, then strew thickly over the pullao the fried onions, almonds, and raisins. Last of all, sprinkle generously with cocoanut. 

55. Beef or Mutton Pullao. 

Very delicious pullao may be made from the cheapest cuts of beef andmutton. Get about two pounds of beef or mutton, cut in bits. Cook untilit is very tender. Boil with this a little bag of mixed spices and twoonions. Unless the meat has a good deal of fat, use crisco, or oil. Twocups of rice will be the right amount to use with two pounds of meat. Use the same method that is used in making chicken pullao. Freshcocoanut is always delicious strewn over pullao, and if curry is usedwith it, have cocoanut in the curry. 

56. Spanish Rice. 

Fry 3 onions, 6 tomatoes, 2 peppers or pimentos together. They must allbe cut into small bits. In another pan fry a cup of rice in a verylittle oil or crisco. After the rice has browned a little, add the twotogether, turn into a rice boiler or steamer and cook until rice istender. A half cupful of grated or diced cheese is an improvement tothis dish. In case tomatoes are not in season, a can of tomatoes, or, better, a large-sized can of tomato soup will do nicely. In that casefry the onions and peppers and rice together. Then add the cheese andtomatoes. 

57. Pea Pullao. 

Take two cups of cold boiled rice, add to it two cups of freshly shelledpeas. Pour over the mixture a half cupful of milk or cream; add atablespoonful of butter or crisco, and cook in a rice boiler or steameruntil the peas are nicely done. A few bay leaves and black pepper grainsare an improvement to this dish. 

58. Cocoanut Rice. 

Take a cup of rice, mix it into half a grated cocoanut. A ten-cent tinof Baker's cocoanut does very nicely if one doesn't care to prepare thefresh cocoanut. Boil the rice and cocoanut together, being sure to addto the water the cocoanut milk. There should be about three inches ofliquid above the rice. Color the liquid yellow with a little turmeric;add salt, six cloves, two cardamon seeds, and twelve pepper berries. Cook in a rice boiler or steamer until done. 

59. Meat and Rice Hash. 

A very nice way of making hash is to use rice instead of potatoes. Takecold meat and gravy and stew together with onion. When the onion isnearly done, add to the broth the rice. A quarter as much uncooked riceas there is meat is a good proportion. Cook all together until rice isthoroughly done. Be sure and have plenty of liquid to start with. Thisis much better than meat and potato hash. 

60. Rice Cutlets. 

Left-over pullao or kidgeri or meat and rice hash make fine cutlets. Mold, roll in crumbs, and fry in the usual way. 

61. Fried Rice (Parsi). 

(A fine dish for a missionary tea. )

Fry a cup of uncooked rice and a cup of brown sugar in a tablespoonfulof butter or crisco. Cook until the sugar melts and begins to bubble;then quickly add two cups of boiling water. Simmer over a slow fire, or, better still, in a rice boiler until rice is thoroughly cooked. It canhardly be cooked too much. Remove from the fire, pour over all a halfounce of rose water and stir well. Press in plates and sprinkle wellwith minced almonds, or any kind of nuts will do. Also add a fewcardamon seeds. When cold, cut into squares and serve like fudge. Thisis a very satisfactory little sweetmeat when one wants a foreign dish. It is easily prepared and very inexpensive. 

[Illustration]

V. 

Bujeas. 

Bujeas are always made from vegetables. They are usually eaten with thenative bread instead of rice. Here again the everlasting onion is inevidence, for bujeas are always fried with onions. They are made fromany kind of vegetables or green tops of vegetables. Potato bujea is oneof the most popular. 

[Illustration: AN INDIAN PRINCE]

62. Potato Bujea. 

To a pound of potatoes take two medium sized onions and one green mangopepper. If the pepper cannot be had, use the tops of onions and a littlecayenne. Fry the onions, and when nicely browned add the potatoes andpeppers. If potatoes are medium-sized, cut each potato in four pieces. Add four tablespoonfuls of water and if hot food is liked, a goodsprinkle of cayenne. If more water is needed, add a couple oftablespoonfuls more. Cook very slowly. Use plenty of oil or crisco infrying the onions. This is good with old potatoes, but is best with newones. Tiny new potatoes are fine cooked in this way. They do not need tobe scraped. Just washed thoroughly and cooked whole. 

63. Banana Bujea. 

Take half a dozen not too ripe bananas, cut them in pieces, and allowthem to lie in weak salt water for a while. Slice two green mangopeppers and half an inch of green ginger; also cut in tiny bits a cloveof garlic. Brown a sliced onion in butter or crisco. Then add thebananas, peppers, etc. When the fruit softens stir in half a cup ofcocoanut; any unsweetened kind will do. Cook a few minutes longer. 

64. Summer Squash Bujea. 

First peel the summer squash. Then cut in very thin slices. Fry an onionand sliced green pepper together; then add the summer squash. Add verylittle water. Simmer until done. 

65. Cabbage Bujea. 

Cabbage bujea is made just as other bujeas are, excepting it is usuallyacidulated. Sometimes fresh cocoanut is cooked with the cabbage andsometimes a little shredded salt fish is added. 

66. Radish Bujea. 

In India radishes are cooked just as other vegetables, and radish bujeais very popular. Peppers are not used in making this, but the youngtender leaves of the radish plant are used instead. While the onion isfrying, parboil the leaves, drain them, and add them to the slicedradishes and onions. 

67. Tomato Bujea. 

This is a fine bujea. One never cares for meat when this is served. Frya large sliced onion and a mango pepper together until nicely browned. Remove from the pan and fry in the same pan six sliced not too ripetomatoes. These should be dipped in batter and then breadcrumbs beforefrying. When tomatoes are nicely browned add onions and peppers. Do notadd any water to this bujea. Heat very slowly until well blended. 

Eggplant, okra, pumpkin, string beans, cauliflower, in fact most anyvegetable may be cooked in this way. One general rule will suffice: Frythe onions first in plenty of crisco or oil. If desired, fry also top ofonions. Then add prepared vegetables and a little water. In most bujeas, peppers or pimentos are used. Cook slowly. Vegetables like eggplant hadbetter be soaked in weak salt water before cooking. 

[Illustration: GRINDING WHEAT]

VI. 

Breads. 

Bujeas are always eaten with native bread. For these breads the flour isalways ground in the home. The mill used is exceedingly primitive. Itconsists of two large circular stones, one fitting into the socket ofthe other. By revolving the upper stone over the lower the grain whichis poured between the stones is crushed. It is the women of India who dothe grinding, and "two women grinding at a mill" is a familiar sighteverywhere throughout the land. 

The bread made from this home-made flour differs very much from thebread we know. It is not made into loaves, but into little flat cakes, which are baked over coals on a griddle. No yeast is used. 

Although India is one of the greatest wheat countries in all the world, the great majority of people in India do not eat wheat bread. They aretoo poor for that. They eat bread made from the flour of coarser grains. Some of these grains, such as millet and rye, we are familiar with;others are quite unknown to us. Corn and oats are but little used inIndia. 

The bread made from these coarse grains is hard to digest. It is made bysimply mixing the flour with water. The dough is then patted into littlecakes. The bread made from wheat, however, is much finer, and Europeansliving in India soon grow to be very fond of it. Some of the varietieswould not be practical in this country. However, a few forms ofHindustani bread are quite easily managed here, and will well be worth atrial. 

68. Chupatties. 

Take a pound of whole wheat and mix it with water until a soft dough isformed. Knead this well. Put a damp cloth over it, and let it stand anhour or so. Then knead again. Make out into balls, each ball about asbig as a walnut. Then roll each ball into a flat cake about as bigaround as a saucer. Bake these cakes one at a time over a very thickiron griddle that has been well heated. Keep turning them over and overwhile they are baking. Fold them up in a napkin as they are baked andkeep in a warm place. The inside pan of a double boiler is a good placefor them. To be properly made these cakes should be patted into shapeinstead of rolled, and the Hindustani women always do it that way. Thesechupatties are eaten with bujeas and curries. 

69. Chupatties (Americanized). 

Make a dough from a pound of whole wheat flour, a half teaspoonful ofbaking powder, and a little salt. Knead well and let stand. When readyto bake them, divide into balls as big as a walnut. Roll each out, spread a little oil or crisco over it; fold up and roll again. Grease aniron griddle and bake, turning from side to side. These are not actuallyfried, but the crisco in them and the greased griddle prevents them fromgetting hard, as they are apt to do if made according to No. 68. 

70. Prahatas. 

This is a very rich and satisfying form of native bread. Take a pound ofwhole wheat and make a dough according to No. 68. Divide the dough intoeight equal parts and make each part into a ball. Flatten each ball alittle and spread with crisco. Double it up and repeat this three orfour times; then roll thin and fry. Use as little grease in frying as ispossible. 

Puris. 

Puris are similar in appearance to chupatties, except they are friedinstead of baked. 

71. Potato Puris. 

Equal parts of mashed potatoes and flour, mixed to a paste and rolledvery thin. Make each puri about as large as a saucer. Fry as you wouldfritters. These sound rather expensive, and they do take a good deal offat; but they are to be eaten without butter. Eat with curry. Nothingelse will be needed at a meal where these puris and curry are served, for they are very satisfying. 

72. White Flour Puris. 

Knead for ten minutes a dough made from a pound of fine white flour andwater. Let stand four or five hours. Divide into little balls and rolluntil they are as thin as paper. Fry as you would fritters. 

73. Sweet Potato Puris. 

Take equal parts of mashed sweet potatoes and whole wheat. Work togetherinto a soft dough. Roll out into cakes, but not too thin. Fry in aslittle grease as possible. 

VII. 

Pickles and Chutneys. 

74. Kausaundi Pickle (Americanized). 

This is a very sour pickle. In India it is always made with sliced greenmango, but in this country very sour green apples and lemons do verynicely. 

[Illustration: THE SNAKE CHARMER]

Slice thinly four lemons. Sprinkle well with salt. Cover with vinegar, and let stand for about a month. 

Slice thinly four very tart apples, two onions, six large sour cucumberpickles, and three large red peppers. After they are sliced mixintimately, then add two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard seed, a littlesalt, and, if the peppers are mild, a little cayenne pepper; also addtwo tablespoonfuls of thinly-sliced green ginger and one tablespoonfulof finely-minced garlic. 

Drain the salt and vinegar from the lemons and add them to the rest ofthe mixture. 

Roast two tablespoonfuls of turmeric until the raw taste is taken away, then mix with it two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard; add to this a cupof salad and a cup of vinegar. Mix well together and pour over thepickles. If there is not enough oil and vinegar to cover it, add equalparts of each until the pickle is well covered. 

This pickle is not to be cooked, but it is best to let it stand in thesun for a number of days. If there is no sun, the warming oven would do. It keeps indefinitely, and is very appetizing. It is fine forsandwiches. A little in Spanish steak or curry adds much to the flavor. 

[Illustration: CARRYING TIMBER IN RANGOON]

VIII. 

Chutney. 

Chutney is a sort of a combination pickle and preserve. It is usuallymade rather sweetly and very hot, and is eaten with curry and rice. Itis, however, a fine relish with all kinds of meats. In India it isusually made of the sliced green mango; but of course we haven't mangoeshere, so we have to use what we can get. Any tart fruit makes goodchutney. 

75. Lemon Chutney. 

Cut a pound of lemons in twelve bits each, and cook in vinegar and avery little salt until the rinds are perfectly tender. Drain. 

Dissolve a pound of sugar in a quart of vinegar; put in the lemons andcook until the mixture becomes thick like jam. Then add a teaspoonful ofcayenne pepper (or less), two tablespoonfuls of minced ginger, twotablespoonfuls of mustard seed, and a pound of raisins. Mix all togetherand boil ten minutes longer. 

76. Apple Chutney. 

Boil together three pounds of sliced apples, two pounds of sugar, and aquart of strong vinegar. When this begins to get like jam, add half apound of raisins, four teaspoonfuls of finely-minced garlic, twotablespoonfuls of thinly-sliced green ginger, one teaspoonful of redpepper, and one ounce of mustard seed. Let simmer a while, then bottleand expose to the sun. Apricot chutney is delicious made the same way, with the addition of several ounces of apricot pits, blanched andminced. 

77. Rhubarb Chutney. 

Make just like apple chutney, only use less vinegar. In addition to theraisins and other ingredients, add a teacupful of finely-minced andblanched almonds. This is worth trying. Less red pepper might be used. 

78. Carrot Pickle. 

Cut the carrots any way that is desired. If they are very small theyneed not be cut at all. Sprinkle them well with salt and dry them inthe sun for three days, being careful not to forget to bring them in atnight. For a pound of carrots take a tablespoonful of mustard seed, halfa dozen peppers (sliced), two tablespoonfuls of green ginger (sliced), and two garlics (finely-minced). Cover with vinegar. These areexcellent. 

79. Mixed Vegetable Pickle. 

Eggplant, radishes, onions, carrots, peppers, all are largely used inmaking pickles in India. They are chopped, sprinkled with salt, anddried for several days in the hot sunshine. Mustard seed, turmeric, andminced garlic are usually added. After several days of sunning they arebottled, covered with vinegar which has been boiled, but which has beencooled. 

IX. 

Most Everything. 

Many of the cooks in India make a very simple puff paste. 

[Illustration: A FAKIR OF BOMBAY]

80. Puff Paste. 

Make a dough out of a pound of flour and sufficient water. Knead forfifteen minutes. Roll in a damp cloth and set aside. 

After an hour or so knead again. Then add a spoonful of shortening at atime until the dough begins to crack and looks rough. 

Roll out in a sheet, cut in four pieces, place one upon the other, rollagain, cut in four pieces again. Repeat this four times, then roll itinto a sheet, spread it with shortening of some kind, cut in fourpieces, and place one over the other. Then roll for the last time. Theadvantage of this method is that it takes comparatively littleshortening and is always light and flaky. It makes a delicious pastryfor cheese cakes. 

81. Cheese Cakes. 

Place two cups of pure milk over the fire and when the milk begins toboil squeeze the juice of a lemon into it. The milk will at once curdle. Drain off the curds. To these curds add the yolks of two eggs, atablespoonful of butter, a small cup of sugar, and a small cup of groundalmonds. Walnuts, pecans, or any other nuts would do all right. 

Mix all together smoothly. Line little patty pans with the paste (No. 80), and fill with the curds. Dust powdered sugar over the top anddecorate with crossbars of pastry. Bake very slowly. 

These cheese cakes are always much in evidence at afternoon teas, gardenparties, and all social functions in India. 

82. Banana Stew with Cocoanut. 

Boil six bananas. To boil bananas do not remove the skins. Just pourenough boiling water over them to cover them. Add a little salt to thewater. As soon as the skins crack they are done. Remove and cool. Whencool, take off the skins, scrape the bananas a little and split them. 

Make a syrup of one cup of sugar and half a cup of fresh cocoanut andhalf a cup of water. Pour this over the boiled bananas and serve. Thisdish is much appreciated by the children. 

Roselles. 

Roselles are a fruit belonging to the sorrel family. The seed is sown inthe vegetable garden every year when other seeds are sown. The plantshave a vigorous growth. They grow as tall or a little taller thancurrant bushes. Long before the season is over the bushes are vivid withwine-red flowers. From the waxen petals of these flowers very delicioussauces, jams, chutneys, and jellies are made. 

Roselles can be grown any place as easily as tomatoes or cabbage or anyvegetable. It would certainly pay any one to make the experiment. Thefruit is very rich in pectin, and not only gives a beautiful color whencombined with any other fruit, but also adds much to the flavor. Combined with peaches or strawberries, cherries or guavas, or any otherfruit that is deficient in pectin, the roselle has very satisfactoryresults. 

When used by themselves a fine jelly is made which is far superior tocurrant jelly. I am sure any one will feel repaid who gives it a trial. The seeds can be purchased from any large dealer. 

83. Roselle Jelly. 

Remove the petals of the flower from the seed; then mince finely byrunning through the meat grinder. To every cup of minced petals addthree cups of water. Boil quickly as the color is much better if it doesnot stand around. After boiling about five minutes it will be ready tostrain. Strain and make as any other jelly. In flavor and appearancethis jelly can not be surpassed. 

84. Roselle Sauce. 

Remove petals from the seed, and for every cup of petals take two cupsof water. Stew gently for a few minutes, then add a cup of sugar forevery cup of fruit. These two things must be remembered if one wishes toget the best results from the fruit. It must be well diluted and it mustbe cooked quickly, as it is apt to lose its bright color if it standsaround. 

Tipparees. 

Tipparees, or cape gooseberries, are also another fruit which is muchneglected in this country. To many they are familiarly known as groundcherries. These are much prized in India, and they really are a finefruit, which can be grown any place and will more than repay the littletime spent in their cultivation. In India the seeds are sown annually. Ithink in this country it seeds itself for a few years at least, but Iam sure better results would be brought about if the seeds were plantedevery spring. 

This berry is unequaled for making jam. If any doubt it, buy ten cents'worth of seed next spring, plant it in your garden. Let the plants growand spread and in the early fall make jam according to the following:

85. Tipparee Jam. 

Husk the fruit and prick each berry. Do not add too much water, as thefruit is very juicy. Cook until fruit is tender, but not broken. Forevery cup of fruit allow a cup of sugar. Cook rapidly and not too muchat a time. It finishes up very quickly. A good plan is to cook onlypartially, turn onto platters, and expose to the sun as one does anyother sun preserve. 

Tipparees are fine for making pies and tarts. 

86. Orange Marmalade. 

This marmalade can be made from oranges or lemons or grapefruit, or bycombining the three, or by combining any two of them. 

Either slice the fruit very thinly or run it through a meat grinder. Forevery cup of fruit take three cups of water. Let it stand fortwenty-four hours. Then boil it in the same water until the rinds aresoft. Let stand another twenty-four hours in the same water. Thenmeasure again and for every cup of mixture take a cup of sugar. The bestresults are obtained if not over four cupfuls are boiled at a time. Boilrapidly. If citrus fruits are boiled slowly they are apt to grow darkand strong. If oranges are used alone for this marmalade they must besour. A good combination is four oranges, two lemons, and half agrapefruit. 

87. Orange Jelly. 

Mince the oranges, rind and all. For every cup of oranges take three ofwater. Let stand in water for twenty-four hours. Boil until fruit issoft and let stand again for another twenty-four hours. Up to this pointthe process is exactly like No. 86. 

Now drain the juice from the fruit. Acidulate with lemon juice. If sixoranges have been used, add the juice of two lemons. To each cup ofjuice take a cup of sugar. Boil about four cupfuls at a time and boilquickly. It will soon become jelly. A cup of roselle juice diluted isbetter to acidulate with than the lemon juice. A beautiful ruby jelly isthe result. 

88. Candied Grapefruit Peel. 

Cut the grapefruit peel in sections. About eight pieces to a grapefruitis a good size. Prick each piece and soak for three days. If theweather is very hot, better scald the fruit instead of soaking it. Change water every morning and evening. On the morning of the fourth dayboil the skins until they can be easily pierced. Remove them and squeezethem as dry as possible. Place them on a tray and sun them for severalhours, or else dry them in an expiring oven. Weigh the peels, and takeonce and a half their weight in sugar. Make this sugar with water into athick syrup; then add the peels and boil until they look clear. Takethem out and boil the syrup until it is quite thick. Return the peelsand stir around and around until the sugar candies over them. Put themto dry in the sun for a day. Orange and lemon peel, watermelon rind, green muskmelons, and almost any kind of fruit can be preserved in thesame way. 

89. Banana Cheese. 

Take a dozen ripe bananas, skin them, and mash them up with a cup ofcream of wheat and a cup of sugar; also add a tablespoonful of butterand a little cinnamon. Cook slowly for about three hours in a doubleboiler. When cold cut as you would cheese. Fine for missionaryfunctions. 

90. Carrot Cheese. 

Boil a pound of carrots until very tender. Then mash them perfectlysmooth. Mix with them a pound of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, andthe juice of a large lemon. Also add a few cardamon seeds. Cook over aslow fire until the mixture hardens into a paste. Add a little morebutter just before removing from the fire. Press into shallow pans andcut in neat squares or diamonds like fudge. 

91. Fruit Cheese. 

Any fruit may be made into a confection which, in India, is called"cheese. " The fruit part first wants to be reduced to a pulp. Then takeequal parts of fruit pulp and sugar, with as much butter as you feel youdare use. If you feel that you dare not use any, use crisco with salt. Cook down until it becomes a paste that can be cut with a knife. It mustcook very slowly. Sometimes when nearly finished nuts are added. Inapricot cheese the kernels are used. They must be blanched and minced. Guava cheese is perhaps the finest, as the flavor improves much withcooking. 

92. "Fools. "

A fool is a drink made of fruit pulp and milk. Mango fool is perhaps themost popular. Fools are always best made of tart unripe fruits. Pare, slice, and stew the fruit until it is quite soft. Strain through a finesieve or coarse muslin. Add to the pulp as much sugar as is desired andenough water to make it pour easily. Boil for a few minutes and turninto a jug. When ready to drink it, fill the glass about half full ofthe fruit mixture and then fill with rich milk. Add ice. These "fools"are very nutritious and refreshing. Often in the hot weather one caresfor little else. 

Hindustani Sweets. 

Hindustani sweets are very sweet, very sticky, very greasy, and verydear to the heart of India's children, both old and young. We do notadvise a steady diet of these, but it is well to know how some of themare made, as such knowledge always comes in handy when arranging formissionary programs, Oriental booths in bazaars, and at frequent othertimes. 

93. Jellabies (Best Beloved). 

Make a batter of one pound of flour and water. Make it just about asthick as you would for pancakes. Cover the vessel tightly and let standfor three days. Then stir in about a half a cup of thick sour milk. Poura little of this batter into a vessel with a hole in the bottom. InIndia a cup made from half a cocoanut shell is made for this purpose, one of the eyes in the monkey face at the end being perforated. Fillthis cup with batter and let the batter run through a little at a timeinto a pan of boiling fat. While the batter is running out through thehole keep the hand moving in a circle, so that the jellabies will takethe form of pretzels. Fry as you would doughnuts. 

In the meantime have a dish of syrup ready. Make this syrup from a poundof brown sugar and water. Cook it until it is about as thick as maplesyrup. Keep this syrup in a warm place and as the jellabies fry placeeach one for a few minutes in the syrup. Remove and pile them on oiledpaper until needed. These are sure to make a hit. Be sure and fry themuntil they are quite brown. If one doesn't want to bother with thebatter standing around for three days, they can be made up at once byadding a teaspoonful of baking powder to the mixture and beating itwell. The milk must not be too sour in that case. 

94. Gulab Jamans. 

Take a pound of rice flour. If one cannot obtain rice flour use commonflour. Put it in a bowl. Crack into it two eggs, add a little salt, andenough cocoanut and cocoanut milk to make a soft dough. Use a ten-centtin of Baker's fresh cocoanut for this. Knead well and cover for alittle while with a damp cloth. After a while mold this dough intolittle balls about the size and shape of pecans. You will have to keepyour fingers oiled while doing this. Fry them as you would doughnuts. Let stand until perfectly cold. 

Weigh them, and for every pound take a quarter of a pound of whitesugar. Make this sugar into a syrup. When thick put in the gulab jamansand stir them for a few minutes. When they are well frosted, remove. Spread out on oiled paper. These are really very nice. Any kind oflittle cakes and nuts can be frosted the same way. The syrup should beallowed to cool a little before the cakes are put in it. 

95. Malpuas. 

Make a batter of one pound of cream of wheat and water. This battershould be very thick. Let stand two days. Then add a cup of gratedcocoanut, a cup of small raisins, two eggs, a cup of sugar, half a cupof curds, and a little flour. Fry as you would pancakes. These are to beeaten cold. These are also very nice to serve at functions. If each oneof these little cakes is made the size of a dollar, a large number couldbe prepared. A heavy aluminum griddle is very nice for frying these, asthey would then require but little fat. 

96. Crow's Nest Fritters. 

Pare and cut in very small strips a pound of sweet potatoes. Steam untila little soft, but not entirely so. Make a batter of flour, two eggs, and water. Put a tablespoonful of batter on a well-greased griddle, thena tablespoonful of the potatoes. Cover these with another tablespoonfulof batter. When done on one side, turn. Eat with melted brown sugar andbutter or with syrup. 

97. Hulwa. 

Fry a cupful of cream of wheat in half a cup of butter or crisco. Whenit begins to have a nutty flavor and to be slightly brown, add threecups of water and one cup of sugar and a few of the small inside seedsof the cardamon. Boil slowly until it forms a thick rich paste. Pressinto square cake pans and sprinkle over the top minced nuts and alsoraisins, if desired. Cut in squares like fudge. Very good and wholesome. 

98. Bombay Hulwa. 

Bombay hulwa is noted all over India. Soak a pound of cream of wheat inenough water to cover it. Let it stand three or four hours. Then rub itthrough a coarse strong cloth until you get all the starch out. To dothis you must keep dipping the cloth in water again and again. Let thiswater stand until the starch has settled, then pour off the water. Maketwo pounds of white sugar into a syrup. Boil until it reaches thefondant stage, then add the cream of wheat starch, and keep boiling andstirring until it forms into a lump. Then add about half a pound ofbutter. Crisco will do as well if salt is used with it. Go on cookingthe hulwa until it begins to get so hard that you can hardly manage it. Then add a wineglass of rose water, some blanched and shredded almondsand the little inside seeds of half a dozen cardamons. Delicious andnourishing, but rather expensive. 

99. Turkish Delight. 

This popular confection is made by a similar method to No. 98, exceptinggum arabic is used instead of cream of wheat starch. The rightproportion is about an ounce of powdered gum arabic to two pounds ofsugar. The butter also is omitted at the last, but the almond, rosewater, and cardamon seed are usually added. Press into plates, cut insquares, and roll each square in powdered sugar. 

There is an easier way, however, to make it. Melt gum-drops. This iseasily done by adding a little water and boiling, or by keeping hot in adouble boiler or fireless cooker for a while. 

Add the almonds and cardamons and lemon or orange juice if desired. Dustpowdered sugar in a square pan. Press in the paste, dust powdered sugarover the top. Cut in squares. 

100. Frosted Bananas. 

Use rather green bananas for this. Peel, slice crosswise, sprinklelightly with salt and fry. Be careful to keep them whole and not toburn them. Allow them to get thoroughly cold, then frost as directed forgulab jamans (No. 94). 

101. Sujee Puffs. 

Make the paste according to No. 80. To make the mince heat a cupful ofcream of wheat in a little butter. Do not fry this brown, but heat allthrough. Stir into this half a cup of dessicated cocoanut, twotablespoonfuls of small seedless raisins, two tablespoonfuls of almonds(blanched and sliced), and the seed of six cardamons. Cook this mixturefor a few minutes, then add a cup of sugar and cook for a few minuteslonger. This will not be a paste, for no water has been added; so don'tthink it is not right if it is very crumbly; that is the way it ought tobe. Roll the paste out not too thin, cut in circles with apound-baking-powder tin. Put as much of the sweetmeat as you think youcan enclose, fold over, make as fancy as you like, and either fry orbake. 

This is a favorite sweet at native weddings. 

102. Breadcrumb Balls. 

Mix dry breadcrumbs and grated cocoanut together, and a few raisins, too, if liked. Take a cup of sugar and half a cup of water, and boil. When syrup has reached the stage that it forms a hard ball in water, pour over the breadcrumb mixture. Mold as if making popcorn balls. Ifone likes, these may be rolled in powdered sugar afterward. These arealso a very fine sweet for social and missionary functions of all kinds. 

103. Sujee Biscuits. 

One pound of cream of wheat and one pound of sugar mixed intimately;then add half a cup of lard or crisco and knead awhile. Form into littleballs and shape the balls as desired. Usually they are simply flattenedout into squares. Bake a light brown. Be careful that they are notcrowded in the pan. 

[Illustration: SALAAMS]

Transcriber's Note:

 Hyphenation has been standardised. Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note.