Transcriber’s Note

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of correctionsis found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling andhyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelledand hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. 

Text surrounded with = was originally printed in a black-letter typeface. 

 _Harper’s Stereotype Edition. _

 THE COOK’S ORACLE; AND HOUSEKEEPER’S MANUAL. 

 CONTAINING

 =Receipts for Cookery, =

 AND

 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 

 ALSO, THE ART OF COMPOSING THE MOST SIMPLE AND MOST HIGHLY FINISHED BROTHS, GRAVIES, SOUPS, SAUCES, STORE SAUCES, AND FLAVOURING ESSENCES; PASTRY, PRESERVES, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. 

 WITH

 A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF COOKERY FOR CATHOLIC FAMILIES. 

 THE QUANTITY OF EACH ARTICLE IS ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND MEASURE; BEING THE RESULT OF ACTUAL EXPERIMENTS INSTITUTED IN THE KITCHEN OF

 WILLIAM KITCHINER, M. D. 

 ADAPTED TO THE AMERICAN PUBLIC BY A MEDICAL GENTLEMAN. 

 FROM THE LAST LONDON EDITION. 

 =New-York:=

 _PRINTED BY J. & J. HARPER, 82 CLIFF-ST. _

 SOLD BY COLLINS AND HANNAY, COLLINS AND CO. , G. AND C. AND H. CARVILL, WILLIAM B. GILLEY, E. BLISS, O. A. ROORBACH, WHITE, GALLAHER, AND WHITE, C. S. FRANCIS, WILLIAM BURGESS, JR. , AND N. B. HOLMES;--PHILADELPHIA, E. L. CAREY AND A. HART, AND JOHN GRIGG;--ALBANY, O. STEELE, AND W. C. LITTLE. 

 1830. 

SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, _ss. _

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the 20th day of November, A. D. 1829, in thefifty-fourth year of the independence of the United States of America, J. & J. HARPER, of the said district, have deposited in this office thetitle of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in thewords following, to wit:

“The Cook’s Oracle, and Housekeeper’s Manual, Containing Receipts forCookery, and Directions for Carving; also the Art of Composing the mostsimple and most highly finished Broths, Gravies, Soups, Sauces, StoreSauces, and Flavouring Essences; Pastry, Preserves, Puddings, Pickles, &c. With a Complete System of Cookery for Catholic Families. TheQuantity of each Article is accurately stated by Weight and Measure;being the Result of Actual Experiments instituted in the Kitchen ofWilliam Kitchiner, M. D. Adapted to the American Public by a MedicalGentleman. ”

In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, entitled “AnAct for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, duringthe time therein mentioned. ” And also to an Act, entitled “An Act, supplementary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encouragement ofLearning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to theauthors and proprietors of such copies, during the times thereinmentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints. ”

 FREDERICK I. BETTS, _Clerk of the Southern District of New-York. _

ADVERTISEMENT. 

The publishers have now the pleasure of presenting to the Americanpublic, Dr. Kitchiner’s justly celebrated work, entitled “The Cook’sOracle, and Housekeeper’s Manual, ” with numerous and valuableimprovements, by a medical gentleman of this city. 

The work contains a store of valuable information, which, it isconfidently believed, will not only prove highly advantageous to youngand inexperienced housekeepers, but also to more experienced matrons--toall, indeed, who are desirous of enjoying, in the highest degree, thegood things which Nature has so abundantly bestowed upon us. 

The “Cook’s Oracle” has been adjudged, by connoisseurs in this countryand in Great Britain, to contain the best possible instructions on thesubject of serving up, beautifully and economically, the productions ofthe water, land, and air, in such a manner as to render them mostpleasant to the eye, and agreeable to the palate. 

Numerous notices, in commendation of the work, might be selected fromrespectable European journals; but the mere fact, that within twelveyears, seventy thousand copies of it have been purchased by the Englishpublic, is sufficient evidence of its reception and merits. 

NEW-YORK, _December, 1829_. 

PREFACE

TO

THE SEVENTH EDITION. 

The whole of this Work has, a _seventh time_, been carefully revised;but this last time I have found little to add, and little to alter. 

I have bestowed as much attention on each of the 500 receipts as if thewhole merit of the book was to be estimated entirely by the accuracy ofmy detail of one particular process. 

The increasing demand for “_The Cook’s Oracle_, ” amounting in 1824 tothe extraordinary number of upwards of 45, 000, has been stimulus enoughto excite any man to submit to the most unremitting study; and theEditor has felt it as an imperative duty to exert himself to the utmostto render “_The Cook’s Oracle_” a faithful narrative of all that isknown of the various subjects it professes to treat. 

PREFACE. 

Among the multitudes of causes which concur to impair health and producedisease, the most general is the improper quality of our food: this mostfrequently arises from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared:yet strange, “passing strange, ” this is the only one for which a remedyhas not been sought; few persons bestow half so much attention on thepreservation of their own health, as they daily devote to that of theirdogs and horses. 

The observations of the Guardians of Health respecting regimen, &c. Haveformed no more than a catalogue of those articles of food, which theyhave considered most proper for particular constitutions. 

Some medical writers have, “in good set terms, ” warned us against thepernicious effects of improper diet; but not one has been so kind as totake the trouble to direct us how to prepare food properly; exceptingonly the contributions of Count Rumford, who says, in pages 16 and 70 ofhis tenth Essay, “however low and vulgar this subject has hithertogenerally been thought to be--_in what Art or Science could improvementsbe made that would more powerfully contribute to increase the comfortsand enjoyments of mankind? Would to God! that I could fix the publicattention to this subject!_”

The Editor has endeavoured to write the following receipts so plainly, that they may be as easily understood in the kitchen as he trusts theywill be relished in the dining-room; and has been more ambitious topresent to the Public a Work which will contribute to the daily comfortof all, than to seem elaborately scientific. 

The practical part of the philosophy of the kitchen is certainly not themost agreeable; gastrology has to contend with its full share of thosegreat impediments to all great improvements in scientific pursuits; theprejudices of the ignorant, and the misrepresentations of the envious. 

The sagacity to comprehend and estimate the importance of anyuncontemplated improvement, is confined to the very few on whom naturehas bestowed a sufficient degree of perfection of the sense which is tomeasure it;--the candour to make a fair report of it, is still moreuncommon; and the kindness to encourage it cannot often be expected fromthose whose most vital interest it is to prevent the developement ofthat by which their own importance, perhaps their only means ofexistence, may be for ever eclipsed: so, as Pope says, how many are

 “Condemn’d in business or in arts to drudge, Without a rival, or without a judge: All fear, none aid you, and few understand. ”

Improvements in _Agriculture_ and the _Breed of Cattle_ have beenencouraged by premiums. Those who have obtained them, have been hailedas benefactors to society! but _the Art of_ making use of these means of_ameliorating Life and supporting a healthful Existence_--COOKERY--hasbeen neglected!!

While the cultivators of the raw materials are distinguished andrewarded, the attempt to improve the processes, without which neithervegetable nor animal substances are fit for the food of man (astonishingto say), has been ridiculed, as unworthy the attention of a rationalbeing!!

The most useful[vii-*] art--which the Editor has chosen to endeavour toillustrate, because nobody else has, and because he knew not how hecould employ some leisure hours more beneficially for mankind, than toteach them to combine the “_utile_” with the “_dulce_, ” and to increasetheir pleasures, without impairing their health, or impoverishing theirfortune, has been for many years his favourite employment; and “THE ARTOF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE BY FOOD, &C. &C. ” and this Work, have insensibly become repositories for whatever observations he hasmade which he thought would make us “LIVE HAPPY, AND LIVE LONG!!!”

The Editor has considered the ART OF COOKERY, not merely as a mechanicaloperation, fit only for working cooks, but as the _Analeptic part of theArt of Physic_. 

 “How best the fickle fabric to support Of mortal man; in healthful body how A healthful mind the longest to maintain, ”

 (ARMSTRONG, )

is an occupation neither unbecoming nor unworthy philosophers of thehighest class: such only can comprehend its importance; which amounts tono less, than not only the enjoyment of the present moment, but the moreprecious advantage of improving and preserving _health_, and prolonging_life_, which depend on duly replenishing the daily waste of the humanframe with materials pregnant with nutriment and easy of digestion. 

If _medicine_ be ranked among those arts which dignify their professors, _cookery_ may lay claim to an equal, if not a superior, distinction; to_prevent_ diseases is surely a more advantageous art to mankind than to_cure_ them. “Physicians should be good cooks, at least in theory. ”--Dr. MANDEVILLE _on Hypochondriasis_, p. 316. 

The learned Dr. ARBUTHNOT observes, in page 3 of the preface to his_Essay on Aliment_, that “the choice and measure of the materials ofwhich our body is composed, what we take daily by _pounds_, is at leastof as much importance as what we take seldom, and only by _grains_ andspoonfuls. ”

Those in whom the organ of taste is obtuse, or who have been brought upin the happy habit of being content with humble fare, whose health is sofirm, that it needs no artificial adjustment; who, with the appetite ofa cormorant, have the digestion of an ostrich, and eagerly devourwhatever is set before them without asking any questions about what itis, or how it has been prepared--may perhaps imagine that the Editor hassometimes been rather over-much refining the business of the kitchen. 

 “Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise. ”

But as few are so fortunate as to be trained up to understand how wellit is worth their while to cultivate such habits of Spartan forbearance, we cannot perform our duty in registering wholesome precepts, in ahigher degree, than by disarming luxury of its sting, and making therefinements of Modern Cookery minister not merely to sensualgratification, but at the same time support the substantial excitementof “mens sana in corpore sano. ”

_Delicate and nervous invalids_, who have unfortunately a sensitivepalate, and have been accustomed to a luxurious variety of savourysauces, and highly seasoned viands; those who, from the infirmity ofage, are become incapable of correcting habits created by absurdindulgence in youth, are entitled to some consideration; and, for theirsake, the _Elements of Opsology_ are explained in the most intelligentmanner; and I have assisted the memory of young cooks, by annexing toeach dish the various sauces which usually accompany it, referring totheir numbers in the work. 

Some idle idiots have remarked to the Author, that “there were really somany _references_ from one receipt to another, that it is exceedinglytroublesome indeed; they are directed sometimes to turn to half a dozennumbers:” this is quite true. If the Author had not adopted this plan of_reference_, his book, to be equally explicit, must have been ten timesas big; his object has been to give as much information as possible inas few pages, and for as few pence, as possible. 

By reducing culinary operations to something like a certainty, _invalids_ will no longer be entirely indebted to chance, whether theyshall recover and live long, and comfortably, or speedily die ofstarvation in the midst of plenty. 

These rules and orders for the regulation of the business of the kitchenhave been extremely beneficial to the Editor’s own health and comfort. He hopes they will be equally so to others: they will help those whoenjoy health to preserve it; teach those who have delicate and irritablestomachs how to keep them in good temper; and, with a littlediscretion, enable them to indulge occasionally, not only with impunity, but with advantage, in all those alimentary pleasures which a rationalepicure can desire. 

There is no question more frequently asked, or which a medical man findsmore difficulty in answering, to the satisfaction of himself and hispatient, than--_What do you wish me to eat?_

The most judicious choice of aliment will avail nothing, unless theculinary preparation of it be equally judicious. How often is the skillof a pains-taking physician counteracted by want of correspondingattention to the preparation of food; and the poor patient, instead ofderiving nourishment, is distressed by indigestion!

PARMENTIER, in his _Code Pharmaceutique_, has given a chapter on thepreparation of food: some of the following receipts are offered as anhumble attempt to form a sort of _Appendix to the Pharmacopœia_, andlike pharmaceutic prescriptions, they are precisely adjusted by _weight_and _measure_. The author of a cookery book, first published in 1824, has claimed this act of industry of mine as his own original invention;the only notice I shall take of his pretensions is to say, that thefirst edition of “_The Cook’s Oracle_” appeared in 1817. 

By ordering such receipts of the _Cook’s Oracle_ as appear adapted tothe case, the recovery of the patient and the credit of the physician, as far as relates to the administration of aliment, need no longerdepend on the discretion of the cook. For instance: _Mutton Broth_, No. 490, or No. 564; _Toast and Water_, No. 463; _Water Gruel_, No. 572;_Beef Tea_, No. 563; and _Portable Soup_, No. 252. This concentrated_Essence of Meat_ will be found a great acquisition to the comfort ofthe army, the navy, the traveller, and the invalid. By dissolving halfan ounce of it in half a pint of hot water, you have in a few minutes_half a pint of good Broth for three halfpence_. The utility of suchaccurate and precise directions for preparing food, is to _travellers_incalculable; for, by translating the receipt, any person may preparewhat is desired as perfectly as a good English cook. 

He has also circumstantially detailed the easiest, least expensive, andmost salubrious methods of preparing those highly finished soups, sauces, ragoûts, and _piquante_ relishes, which the most ingenious“officers of the mouth” have invented for the amusement of thorough-bred“_grands gourmands_. ”

It has been his aim to render food acceptable to the palate, withoutbeing expensive to the purse, or offensive to the stomach; nourishingwithout being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting;constantly endeavouring to hold the balance equal, between the agreeableand the wholesome, the epicure and the economist. 

_He has not presumed to recommend one receipt that has not beenpreviously and repeatedly proved in his own kitchen_, which has not beenapproved by the most accomplished cooks; and has, moreover, been eatenwith unanimous applause by _a Committee of Taste_, composed of some ofthe most illustrious gastropholists of this luxurious metropolis. 

The Editor has been materially assisted by Mr. Henry Osborne, theexcellent cook to the late Sir Joseph Banks; that worthy President ofthe Royal Society was so sensible of the importance of the subject theEditor was investigating, that he sent his cook to assist him in hisarduous task; and many of the receipts in this edition are much improvedby his suggestions and corrections. See No. 560. 

_This is the only English Cookery Book_ which has been written from thereal experiments of a _housekeeper_ for the benefit of _housekeepers_;which the reader will soon perceive by the minute attention that hasbeen employed to elucidate and improve the _Art of Plain Cookery_;detailing many particulars and precautions, which may at first appearfrivolous, but which experience will prove to be essential: to teach acommon cook how to provide, and to prepare, common food so frugally, andso perfectly, that _the plain every-day family fare of the mosteconomical housekeeper_, may, with scarcely additional expense, or anyadditional trouble, be _a satisfactory entertainment for an epicure oran invalid_. 

By an attentive consideration of “_the Rudiments of Cookery_, ” and therespective receipts, the most _ignorant novice_ in the business of thekitchen, may work with the utmost facility and certainty of success, andsoon become _a good cook_. 

Will all the other books of cookery that ever were printed do this? Togive his readers an idea of the immense labour attendant upon this Work, it may be only necessary for the Author to state, that he has patientlypioneered through more than _two hundred cookery books_ before he setabout recording these results of his own experiments! The table of _themost economical family_ may, by the help of this book, be entertainedwith as much elegance as that of _a sovereign prince_. 

LONDON, 1829. 

FOOTNOTES:

[vii-*] “The only test of the utility of knowledge, is its promoting thehappiness of mankind. ”--_Dr. Stark on Diet_, p. 90. 

CONTENTS. 

 Page

 PREFACE v ---- to Seventh Edition iv INTRODUCTION 15 Culinary Curiosities 32 Invitations to Dinner 36 Carving 43 Friendly Advice to Cooks 45 Table of Weights, &c. 65

 RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 

 CHAPTER 1. Boiling 66 ---- Baking 72 ---- 2. Roasting 74 ---- 3. Frying 80 ---- 4. Broiling 82 ---- 5. Vegetables 83 ---- 6. Fish 86 Fish Sauces 88 ---- 7. Broths and Soups 89 ---- 8. Gravies and Sauces 100 ---- 9. Made Dishes 106 Receipts 108 Marketing Tables 355

 APPENDIX. 

 Pastry, Confectionery, Preserves, &c. 360 Bread, &c. 390 Observations on Puddings and Pies 392 Pickles 398 Various useful Family Receipts 405 Observations on Carving 409 Index 421

INTRODUCTION. 

The following receipts are not a mere marrowless collection of shredsand patches, and cuttings and pastings, but a bonâ fide register ofpractical facts, --accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued orevaporated by the igniferous terrors of a roasting fire in thedog-days, --in defiance of the odoriferous and calefacient repellents ofroasting, boiling, frying, and broiling;--moreover, the author hassubmitted to a labour no preceding cookery-book-maker, perhaps, everattempted to encounter, --having _eaten_ each receipt before he set itdown in his book. 

They have all been heartily welcomed by a sufficiently well-educatedpalate, and a rather fastidious stomach:--perhaps this certificate ofthe reception of the respective preparations, will partly apologize forthe book containing a smaller number of them than preceding writers onthis gratifying subject have transcribed--for the amusement of “everyman’s master, ” the STOMACH. [15-*]

Numerous as are the receipts in former books, they vary little from eachother, except in the name given to them; the processes of cookery arevery few: I have endeavoured to describe each, in so plain andcircumstantial a manner, as I hope will be easily understood, even bythe amateur, who is unacquainted with the practical part of culinaryconcerns. 

OLD HOUSEKEEPERS may think I have been tediously minute on many pointswhich may appear trifling: my predecessors seem to have considered theRUDIMENTS of COOKERY quite unworthy of attention. These little delicatedistinctions constitute all the difference between a common and anelegant table, and are not trifles to the YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS who mustlearn them either from the communication of others or blunder on tilltheir own slowly accumulating and dear-bought experience teaches them. 

A wish to save time, trouble and money to inexperienced housekeepers andcooks, and to bring the enjoyments and indulgences of the opulent withinreach of the middle ranks of society, were my motives for publishingthis book. I could accomplish it only by supposing the reader (when hefirst opens it) to be as ignorant of cookery as I was, when I firstthought of writing on the subject. 

I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my fellow-creatures:by a careful attention to the directions herein given, the most ignorantmay easily learn to prepare food, not only in an agreeable andwholesome, but in an elegant and economical manner. 

This task seems to have been left for me; and I have endeavoured tocollect and communicate, in the clearest and most intelligible manner, the whole of the heretofore abstruse mysteries of the culinary art, which are herein, I hope, so plainly developed, that the mostinexperienced student in the occult art of cookery, may work from myreceipts with the utmost facility. 

I was perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty of teaching those whoare entirely unacquainted with the subject, and of explaining my ideaseffectually, by mere receipts, to those who never shook hands with astewpan. 

In my anxiety to be readily understood, I have been under the necessityof occasionally repeating the same directions in different parts of thebook; but I would rather be censured for repetition than for obscurity, and hope not to be accused of affectation, while my intention isperspicuity. 

Our neighbours of France are so justly famous for their skill in theaffairs of the kitchen, that the adage says, “As many Frenchmen as manycooks:” surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most deliciouswines, and seducing _liqueurs_ offering every temptation to renderdrunkenness delightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a “_rara avis_. ”

They know how so easily to keep life in sufficient repair by goodeating, that they require little or no screwing up with liquid stimuli. This accounts for that “_toujours gai_, ” and happy equilibrium of theanimal spirits which they enjoy with more regularity than any people:their elastic stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous liquors, digestvigorously the food they sagaciously prepare and render easilyassimilable, by cooking it sufficiently, --wisely contriving to get halfthe work of the stomach done by fire and water, till

 “The tender morsels on the palate melt, And all the force of cookery is felt. ”

See Nos. 5 and 238, &c. 

The cardinal virtues of cookery, “CLEANLINESS, FRUGALITY, NOURISHMENT, AND PALATABLENESS, ” preside over each preparation; for I have notpresumed to insert a single composition, without previously obtainingthe “_imprimatur_” of an enlightened and indefatigable “COMMITTEE OFTASTE, ” (composed of thorough-bred GRANDS GOURMANDS of the firstmagnitude, ) whose cordial co-operation I cannot too highly praise; andhere do I most gratefully record the unremitting zeal they manifestedduring their arduous progress of proving the respective recipes: theywere so truly philosophically and disinterestedly regardless of the wearand tear of teeth and stomach, that their labour appeared a pleasure tothem. Their laudable perseverance has enabled me to give theinexperienced amateur an unerring guide how to excite as much pleasureas possible on the palate, and occasion as little trouble as possible tothe principal viscera, and has hardly been exceeded by those determinedspirits who lately in the Polar expedition braved the other extreme oftemperature, &c. In spite of whales, bears, icebergs, and starvation. 

Every attention has been paid in directing the proportions of thefollowing compositions; not merely to make them inviting to theappetite, but agreeable and useful to the stomach--nourishing withoutbeing inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting. 

I have written for those who make nourishment the chief end ofeating, [17-*] and do not desire to provoke appetite beyond the powersand necessities of nature; proceeding, however, on the purest epicureanprinciples of indulging the palate as far as it can be done withoutinjury or offence to the stomach, and forbidding[18-*] nothing but whatis absolutely unfriendly to health. 

 ----“That which is not good, is not delicious To a well-govern’d and wise appetite. ”--MILTON. 

This is by no means so difficult a task as some gloomy philosophers(uninitiated in culinary science) have tried to make the world believe;who seem to have delighted in persuading you, that every thing that isnice must be noxious, and that every thing that is nasty is wholesome. 

 “How charming is divine philosophy? Not harsh, and crabbed, as dull fools suppose, But musical as is Apollo’s lute, And a perpetual feast of nectar’d sweets, Where no crude surfeit reigns. ”--MILTON. 

Worthy William Shakspeare declared he never found a philosopher whocould endure the toothache patiently:--the Editor protests that he hasnot yet overtaken one who did not love a feast. 

Those _cynical_ slaves who are so silly as to suppose it unbecoming awise man to indulge in the common comforts of life, should be answeredin the words of the French philosopher. “Hey--what, do you philosopherseat dainties?” said a gay Marquess. “Do you think, ” replied DESCARTES, “that God made good things only for fools?”

Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and void ofunderstanding, is an _epicure_ in his own way. The epicures in boilingof potatoes are innumerable. The perfection of all enjoyment depends onthe perfection of the faculties of the mind and body; therefore, thetemperate man is the greatest epicure, and the only true voluptuary. 

THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE have been highly appreciated and carefullycultivated in all countries and in all ages;[19-*] and in spite of allthe stoics, every one will allow they are the first and the last weenjoy, and those we taste the oftenest, --above a thousand times in ayear, every year of our lives!

THE STOMACH is the mainspring of our system. If it be not sufficientlywound up to warm the heart and support the circulation, the wholebusiness of life will, in proportion, be ineffectively performed: we canneither _think_ with precision, _walk_ with vigour, _sit down_ withcomfort, nor _sleep_ with tranquillity. 

There would be no difficulty in proving that it influences (much morethan people in general imagine) all our actions: the destiny of nationshas often depended upon the more or less laborious digestion of a primeminister. [19-+] See a very curious anecdote in the memoirs of COUNTZINZENDORFF in Dodsley’s Annual Register for 1762. 3d edition, p. 32. 

The philosopher Pythagoras seems to have been extremely nice in eating;among his absolute injunctions to his disciples, he commands them to“abstain from beans. ”

This ancient sage has been imitated by the learned who have discoursedon this subject since, who are liberal of their negative, and niggardlyof their positive precepts--in the ratio, that it is easier to tell younot to do this, than to teach you how to do that. 

Our great English moralist Dr. S. JOHNSON, his biographer Boswell tellsus, “was a man of very nice discernment in the science of cookery, ” andtalked of good eating with uncommon satisfaction. “Some people, ” saidhe, “have a foolish way of not minding, or pretending not to mind, whatthey eat; for my part, I mind my belly very studiously and verycarefully, and I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly, willhardly mind any thing else. ”

The Dr. Might have said, _cannot_ mind any thing else. The energy of ourBRAINS is sadly dependent on the behaviour of our BOWELS. [20-*] Thosewho say, ’Tis no matter what we eat or what we drink, may as well say, ’Tis no matter whether we eat, or whether we drink. 

The following anecdotes I copy from Boswell’s life of Johnson. 

_Johnson. _--“I could write a better book of cookery than has ever yetbeen written; it should be a book on philosophical principles. I wouldtell what is the best butcher’s meat, the proper seasons of differentvegetables, and then, how to roast, and boil, and to compound. ”

_Dilly. _--“_Mrs. Glasse’s cookery_, which is the best, was written byDr. Hill. ”

_Johnson. _--“Well, Sir--this shows how much better the subject ofcookery[20-+] may be treated by a philosopher;[20-++] but you shall seewhat a book of cookery I shall make, and shall agree with Mr. Dilly forthe copyright. ”

_Miss Seward. _--“That would be Hercules with the distaff indeed!”

_Johnson. _--“No, madam; women can spin very well, but they cannot make agood book of cookery. ” See vol. Iii. P. 311. 

Mr. B. Adds, “I never knew a man who relished good eating more than hedid: when at table, he was totally absorbed in the business of themoment: nor would he, unless in very high company, say one word, or evenpay the least attention to what was said by others, until he hadsatisfied his appetite. ”

The peculiarities of his constitution were as great as those of hischaracter: luxury and intemperance are relative terms, depending onother circumstances than mere quantity and quality. Nature gave him anexcellent palate, and a craving appetite, and his intense applicationrendered large supplies of nourishment absolutely necessary to recruithis exhausted spirits. 

The fact is, this great man had found out that animal and intellectualvigour, [21-*] are much more entirely dependent upon each other than iscommonly understood; especially in those constitutions whose digestiveand chylopoietic organs are capricious and easily put out of tune, orabsorb the “_pabulum vitæ_” indolently and imperfectly: with such, it isonly now and then that the “_sensorium commune_” vibrates with the fulltone of accurately considerative, or creative energy. “His favouritedainties were, a leg of pork boiled till it dropped from the bone, aveal-pie, with plums and sugar, or the outside cut of a salt buttock ofbeef. With regard to _drink_, his liking was for the strongest, as itwas not the _flavour_, but the _effect_ that he desired. ” Mr. Smale’sAccount of Dr. Johnson’s Journey into Wales, 1816, p. 174. 

Thus does the HEALTH always, and very often the LIFE of invalids, andthose who have weak and infirm STOMACHS, depend upon the care and skillof the COOK. Our forefathers were so sensible of this, that in days ofyore no man of consequence thought of making a day’s journey withouttaking his “MAGISTER COQUORUM” with him. 

The rarity of this talent in a high degree is so well understood, thatbesides very considerable pecuniary compensation, his majesty’s firstand second cooks[22-*] are now esquires by their office. We have everyreason to suppose they were persons of equal dignity heretofore. 

In Dr. Pegge’s “Forme of Cury, ” 8vo. London, 1780, we read, that whenCardinal Otto, the Pope’s legate, was at Oxford, A. D. 1248, his brotherofficiated as “MAGISTER COQUINÆ. ”

This important post has always been held as a situation of high trustand confidence; and the “MAGNUS COQUUS, ” Anglicè, the _MasterKitchener_, has, time immemorial, been an officer of considerabledignity in the palaces of princes. 

The cook in PLAUTUS (_pseudol_) is called “_Hominum servatorem_, ” thepreserver of mankind; and by MERCIER “_un médecin qui guéritradicalement deux maladies mortelles, la faim et la soif_. ”

The Norman conqueror WILLIAM bestowed several portions of land on thesehighly-favoured domestics, the “COQUORUM PRÆPOSITUS, ” and “COQUUSREGIUS;” a manor was bestowed on Robert Argyllon the “GRAND QUEUX, ” tobe held by the following service. See that venerable record, thedoomsday book. 

“Robert Argyllon holdeth one carucate of land in Addington in the countyof Surrey, by the service of making one mess in an earthen pot in thekitchen of our Lord the KING, on the day of his coronation, called _Dela Groute_, ” i. E. A kind of plum-porridge, or water-gruel with plums init. This dish is still served up at the royal table at coronations, bythe Lord of the said manor of Addington. 

At the coronation of King George IV. , Court of Claims, July 12, 1820:

“The petition of the Archbishop of CANTERBURY, which was presented bySir G. Nayler, claiming to perform the service of presenting a dish of_De la Groute_ to the King at the banquet, was considered by the Court, and decided to be allowed. ”

A good dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life; andas the practice of cookery is attended with so many discouragingdifficulties, [22-+] so many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, and even dangers, we ought to have some regard for those who encounterthem to procure us pleasure, and to reward their attention by renderingtheir situation every way as comfortable and agreeable as we can. He whopreaches _integrity_ to those in the kitchen, (see “_Advice to Cooks_, ”)may be permitted to recommend _liberality_ to those in the parlour; theyare indeed the sources of each other. Depend upon it, “True self-loveand social are the same;” “Do as you would be done by:” give those youare obliged to trust every inducement to be honest, and no temptation toplay tricks. 

When you consider that a good servant eats[23-*] no more than a bad one, how much waste is occasioned by provisions being dressed in a slovenlyand unskilful manner, and how much a good cook (to whom the conduct ofthe kitchen is confided) can save you by careful management, nohousekeeper will hardly deem it an unwise speculation (it is certainlyan amiable experiment), to invite the _honesty_ and _industry_ ofdomestics, by setting them an example of _liberality_--at least, showthem, that “According to their pains will be their gains. ”

Avoid all approaches towards _familiarity_; which, to a proverb, isaccompanied by _contempt_, and soon breaks the neck of obedience. 

A lady gave us the following account of the progress of a favourite. 

“The first year, she was an excellent servant; the second, a kindmistress; the third, an intolerable tyrant; at whose dismissal, everycreature about my house rejoiced heartily. ”

However, servants are more likely to be praised into good conduct, thanscolded out of bad. Always commend them when they do right. To cherishthe desire of pleasing in them, you must show them that you arepleased:--

 “Be to their faults a little blind, And to their virtues very kind. ”

By such conduct, ordinary servants may be converted into good ones: feware so hardened, as not to feel gratified when they are kindly andliberally treated. 

It is a good maxim to select servants not younger than THIRTY:--_before_that age, however comfortable you may endeavour to make them, their wantof experience, and the _hope_ of something still _better_, preventstheir being satisfied with their present state; _after_, they have hadthe benefit of experience: if they are tolerably comfortable, they willendeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind master, for_fear_ they may change for the _worse_. 

Life may indeed be very fairly divided into the seasons of HOPE andFEAR. In YOUTH, _we hope every thing may be right_: in AGE, _we fearevery thing will be wrong_. 

Do not discharge a good servant for a slight offence:--

 “Bear and forbear, thus preached the stoic sages, And in two words, include the sense of pages. ”--POPE. 

HUMAN NATURE IS THE SAME IN ALL STATIONS: if you can convince yourservants that you have a generous and considerate regard for theirhealth and comfort, why should you imagine that they will be insensibleto the good they receive?

Impose no commands but what are reasonable, nor reprove but with justiceand temper: the best way to ensure which is, never to lecture them tillat least one day after they have offended you. 

If they have any particular hardship to endure in your service, let themsee that you are concerned for the necessity of imposing it. 

_If they are sick_, remember you are their patron as well as theirmaster: remit their labour, and give them all the assistance of food, physic, and every comfort in your power. Tender assiduity about aninvalid is half a cure; it is a balsam to the mind, which has a mostpowerful effect on the body, soothes the sharpest pains, and strengthensbeyond the richest cordial. 

Ye who think that to protect and encourage virtue is the best preventivefrom vice, reward your female servants liberally. 

CHARITY SHOULD BEGIN AT HOME. Prevention is preferable to cure--but Ihave no objection to see your names ornamenting the lists of subscribersto foundling hospitals and female penitentiaries. [25-*] Gentle reader, for a definition of the word “_charity_, ” let me refer you to the 13thChapter of St. Paul’s First Epistle to the Corinthians. 

“To say nothing of the deleterious vapours and pestilential exhalationsof the charcoal, which soon undermine the health of the heartiest, theglare of a scorching fire, and the smoke so baneful to the eyes and thecomplexion, are continual and inevitable dangers: and a cook must livein the midst of them, as a soldier on the field of battle surrounded bybullets, and bombs, and CONGREVE’S rockets; with this only difference, that for the first, every day is a fighting day, that her warfare isalmost always without glory, and most praiseworthy achievements pass notonly without reward, but frequently without thanks: for the mostconsummate cook is, alas! seldom noticed by the master, or heard of bythe guests; who, while they are eagerly devouring his turtle, anddrinking his wine, care very little who dressed the one, or sent theother. ”--_Almanach des Gourmands. _

This observation applies especially to the SECOND COOK, or first kitchenmaid, in large families, who have by far the hardest place in the house, and are worse paid, and truly verify the old adage, “the more work, theless wages. ” If there is any thing right, the cook has the praise--whenthere is any thing wrong, as surely the _kitchen maid_ has the blame. Beit known, then, to honest JOHN BULL, that this humble domestic isexpected by the cook to take the entire management of all ROASTS, BOILS, FISH, and VEGETABLES; i. E. The principal part of an Englishman’sdinner. 

The master, who wishes to enjoy the rare luxury of a table regularlywell served in the best style, must treat his cook as his friend--watchover her health[26-*] with the tenderest care, and especially be sureher taste does not suffer from her stomach being deranged by biliousattacks. 

Besides understanding the management of the spit, the stewpan, and therolling-pin, a COMPLETE COOK must know how to go to market, writelegibly, and keep accounts accurately. 

In well-regulated private families the most convenient custom seems tobe, that the cook keep a house-book, containing an account of themiscellaneous articles she purchases; and the butcher’s, baker’s, butterman’s, green-grocer’s, fishmonger’s, milkman’s, and washing billsare brought in every Monday; these it is the duty of the cook toexamine, before she presents them to her employer every Tuesday morningto be discharged. 

The advantage of paying such bills weekly is incalculable: among othersthe constant check it affords against any excess beyond the sum allottedfor defraying them, and the opportunity it gives of correcting increaseof expense in one week by a prudent retrenchment in the next. “If youwould live _even_ with the world, calculate your expenses at _half_ yourincome--if you would grow _rich_, at _one-third_. ”

It is an excellent plan to have a table of rules for regulating theordinary expenses of the family, in order to check any innovation orexcess which otherwise might be introduced unawares, and derange theproposed distribution of the annual revenue. 

To understand the economy of household affairs is not only essential toa woman’s proper and pleasant performance of the duties of a wife and amother, but is indispensable to the comfort, respectability, and generalwelfare of all families, whatever be their circumstances. 

The editor has employed some leisure hours in collecting practical hintsfor instructing inexperienced housekeepers in the useful

 _Art of providing comfortably for a family;_

which is displayed so plainly and so particularly, that a young ladymay learn the delectable arcana of domestic affairs, in as little timeas is usually devoted to directing the position of her hands on a_piano-forte_, or of her feet in a _quadrille_--this will enable her tomake the cage of matrimony as comfortable as the net of courtship wascharming. For this purpose he has contrived a Housekeeper’s Leger, aplain and easy plan of keeping accurate accounts of the expenses ofhousekeeping, which, with only one hour’s attention in a week, willenable you to balance all such accounts with the utmost exactness; anacceptable acquisition to all who admit that order and economy are thebasis of comfort and independence. 

It is almost impossible for a cook in a large family, to attend to thebusiness of the kitchen with any certainty of perfection, if employed inother household concerns. It is a service of such importance, and sodifficult to perform even tolerably well, that it is sufficient toengross the entire attention of one person. 

“If we take a review of the qualifications which are indispensable inthat highly estimable domestic, a GOOD COOK, we shall find that very fewdeserve that name. ”[27-*]

“The majority of those who set up for professors of this art are of meanability, selfish, and pilfering every thing they can; others areindolent and insolent. Those who really understand their business (whichare by far the smallest number), are too often either ridiculouslysaucy, or insatiably thirsty; in a word, a good subject of this class isa _rara avis_ indeed!”

“God sends meat, ”--who sends cooks?[28-*] the proverb has long saved usthe trouble of guessing. Vide _Almanach des Gourmands_, p. 83. 

Of what value then is not this book, which will render every person ofcommon sense a good cook in as little time as it can be read throughattentively!

If the masters and mistresses of families will sometimes condescend tomake an amusement of this art, they will escape numberlessdisappointments, &c. Which those who will not, must occasionallyinevitably suffer, to the detriment of both their health and theirfortune. 

I did not presume to offer any observations of my own, till I had readall that I could find written on the subject, and submitted (with nosmall pains) to a patient and attentive consideration of every precedingwork, relating to culinary concerns, that I could meet with. 

These books vary very little from each other; except in the preface, they are

 “Like in all else as one egg to another. ”

“_Ab uno, disce omnes_, ” cutting and pasting have been much ofteneremployed than the pen and ink: any one who has occasion to refer to twoor three of them, will find the receipts almost always “_verbatim etliteratim_;” equally unintelligible to those who are ignorant, anduseless to those who are acquainted with the business of the kitchen. 

I have perused not fewer than 250 of these volumes. 

During the Herculean labour of my tedious progress through these books, few of which afford the germ of a single idea, I have often wished thatthe authors of them had been satisfied with giving us the results oftheir own practice and experience, instead of idly perpetuating theerrors, prejudices, and plagiarisms of their predecessors; the strange, and unaccountable, and uselessly extravagant farragoes and heterogeneouscompositions which fill their pages, are combinations no rational beingwould ever think of either dressing or eating; and without ascertainingthe practicability of preparing the receipts, and their fitness for foodwhen done, they should never have ventured to recommend them to others:the reader of them will often put the same _quære_, as _Jeremy_, inCongreve’s comedy of “_Love for Love_, ” when _Valentine_ observes, “There’s a page doubled down in Epictetus that is a feast for anemperor. --_Jer. _ Was Epictetus a real cook, or did he only writereceipts?”

Half of the modern cookery books are made up with pages cut out ofobsolete works, such as the “Choice Manual of Secrets, ” the “TrueGentlewoman’s Delight, ” &c. Of as much use, in this age of refinement, as the following curious passage from “The Accomplished Lady’s RichCloset of Rarities, or Ingenious Gentlewoman’s Delightful Companion, ”12mo. London, 1653, chapter 7, page 42; which I have inserted in anote, [29-*] to give the reader a notion of the barbarous manners of the16th century, with the addition of the arts of the confectioner, thebrewer, the baker, the distiller, the gardener, the clear-starcher, andthe perfumer, and how to make pickles, puff paste, butter, blacking, &c. Together with my _Lady Bountiful’s_ sovereign remedy for an inwardbruise, and other ever-failing nostrums, --_Dr. Killemquick’s_wonder-working essence, and fallible elixir, which cures all manner ofincurable maladies directly minute, _Mrs. Notable’s_ instructions how tomake soft pomatum, that will soon make more hair grow upon thy head, “than Dobbin, thy thill-horse, hath upon his tail, ” and many othersequally invaluable!!!--the proper appellation for which would be “adangerous budget of vulgar errors, ” concluding with a bundle of extractsfrom “the Gardener’s Calendar, ” and “the Publican’s Daily Companion. ”

Thomas Carter, in the preface to his “City and Country Cook, ” London, 1738, says, “What I have published is almost the only book, one or twoexcepted, which of late years has come into the world, that has been theresult of the author’s own practice and experience; for though very feweminent practical cooks have ever cared to publish what they knew of theart, yet they have been prevailed on, for a small premium from abookseller, to lend their names to performances in this art unworthytheir owning. ”

Robert May, in the introduction to his “Accomplished Cook, ” 1665, says, “To all honest and well-intending persons of my profession, and others, this book cannot but be acceptable, as it plainly and profitablydiscovers the mystery of the whole art; for which, though I may beenvied by some, that only value their private interests above posterityand the public good; yet (he adds), God and my own conscience would notpermit me to bury these, my experiences, with my silver hairs in thegrave. ”

Those high and mighty masters and mistresses of the alimentary art, whocall themselves “_profess_” cooks, are said to be very jealous andmysterious beings; and that if, in a long life of laborious stove-work, they have found out a few useful secrets, they seldom impart to thepublic the fruits of their experience; but sooner than divulge theirdiscoveries for the benefit and comfort of their fellow-creatures, thesesilly, selfish beings will rather run the risk of a reprimand from theiremployers, and will sooner spoil a good dinner, than suffer theirfellow-servants to see how they dress it!!!

The silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals, is never more extremelyabsurd than in their unprofitable parsimony of what is of no use tothem, but would be of actual value to others, who, in return, wouldwillingly repay them tenfold. However, I hope I may be permitted toquote, in defence of these culinary professors, a couple of lines of afavourite old song:

 “If you search the world round, each profession, you’ll find, Hath some snug little secrets, which the Mystery[30-*] they call. ”

MY RECEIPTS are the results of experiments carefully made, andaccurately and circumstantially related;

The TIME requisite for dressing being stated;

The QUANTITIES of the various articles contained in each compositionbeing carefully set down in NUMBER, WEIGHT, and MEASURE. 

The WEIGHTS are _avoirdupois_; the MEASURE, _Lyne’s_ graduated glass, i. E. A wine-pint divided into sixteen ounces, and the ounce into eightdrachms. By a _wine-glass_ is to be understood two ounces liquidmeasure; by a large or _table-spoonful_, half an ounce; by a small or_tea-spoonful_, a drachm, or half a quarter of an ounce, i. E. Nearlyequal to two drachms avoirdupois. 

At some glass warehouses, you may get measures divided into tea andtable-spoons. No cook should be without one, who wishes to be regular inher business. 

This precision has never before been attempted in cookery books, but Ifound it indispensable from the impossibility of _guessing_ thequantities intended by such obscure expressions as have been usuallyemployed for this purpose in former works:--

For instance: a bit of this--a handful of that--a pinch of t’other--do’em over with an egg--and a sprinkle of salt--a dust of flour--a shakeof pepper--a squeeze of lemon, --or a dash of vinegar, &c. Are theconstant phrases. Season it to your palate, (meaning the cook’s, ) isanother form of speech: now, if she has any, (it is very unlikely thatit is in unison with that of her employers, ) by continually sipping_piquante_ relishes, it becomes blunted and insensible, and loses thefaculty of appreciating delicate flavours, so that every thing is doneat random. 

These culinary technicals are so very differently understood by thelearned who write them, and the unlearned who read them, and their“_rule of thumb_” is so extremely indefinite, that if the same dish bedressed by different persons, it will generally be so different, thatnobody would imagine they had worked from the same directions, whichwill assist a person who has not served a regular apprenticeship in thekitchen, no more than reading “Robinson Crusoe” would enable a sailor tosteer safely from England to India. [32-*]

It is astonishing how cheap _cookery books_ are held by practical cooks:when I applied to an experienced artist to recommend me some books thatwould give me a notion of the rudiments of cookery, he replied, with asmile, “You may read _Don Quixote_, or _Peregrine Pickle_, they are bothvery good books. ”

Careless expressions in cookery are the more surprising, as theconfectioner is regularly attentive, in the description of hispreparations, to give the exact quantities, though his business, compared to cookery, is as unimportant as the ornamental is inferior tothe useful. 

The maker of blanc-mange, custards, &c. And the endless and uselesscollection of puerile playthings for the palate (of first and secondchildhood, for the vigour of manhood seeketh not to be sucking sugar, orsipping turtle), is scrupulously exact, even to a grain, in hisingredients; while cooks are unintelligibly indefinite, although theyare intrusted with the administration of our FOOD, upon the properquality and preparation of which, all our powers of body and minddepend; their energy being invariably in the ratio of the performance ofthe restorative process, i. E. The quantity, quality, and perfectdigestion of what we eat and drink. 

Unless _the stomach_ be in good humour, every part of the machinery of_life_ must vibrate with languor: can we then be too attentive to itsadjustment?!!

CULINARY CURIOSITIES. 

 The following specimen of the unaccountably whimsical harlequinade of foreign kitchens is from “La Chapelle” Nouveau Cuisinier, Paris, 1748. 

 “A turkey, ” in the shape of “_football_, ” or “_a hedge-hog_. ” A “shoulder of mutton, ” in the shape of a “_bee-hive_. ”--“Entrée of pigeons, ” in the form of a “_spider_, ” or _sun_-fashion, or “in the form of a _frog_, ” or, in “the form of the _moon_. ”--Or, “to make a pig taste like a wild boar;” take _a living pig_, and _let him_ swallow the following drink, viz. Boil together in vinegar and water, some rosemary, thyme, sweet basil, bay leaves, and sage; when you have _let him_ swallow this, _immediately whip him to death_, and roast him forthwith. How “to still a cocke for a weak bodie that is consumed, --take a red cocke that is not too olde, and beat him to death. ”--See THE BOOKE OF COOKRYE, very necessary for all such as delight therein. Gathered by A. W. , 1591, p. 12. How to ROAST _a pound of_ BUTTER, curiously and well; and to _farce_ (the culinary technical for _to stuff_) a boiled leg of lamb with red herrings and garlic; with many other receipts of as high a relish, and of as easy digestion as the _devil’s venison_, i. E. A roasted tiger stuffed with tenpenny nails, or the “_Bonne Bouche_, ” the rareskin Rowskimowmowsky offered to Baron Munchausen, “a fricassee of pistols, with gunpowder and alcohol sauce. ”--See the _Adventures of Baron Munchausen_, 12mo. 1792, p. 200; and _the horrible but authentic account of_ ARDESOIF, in MOUBRAY’S _Treatise on Poultry_, 8vo. 1816, p. 18. 

 But the most extraordinary of all the culinary receipts that have been under my eye, is the following diabolically cruel directions of Mizald, “_how to roast and eat a goose alive_. ” “Take a GOOSE or a DUCK, or some such _lively creature_, (but a goose is best of all for this purpose, ) pull off all her feathers, only the head and neck must be spared: then make a fire round about her, not too close to her, that the smoke do not choke her, and that the fire may not burn her too soon; nor too far off, that she may not escape free: within the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and pots full of water, wherein salt and honey are mingled: and let there be set also chargers full of sodden apples, cut into small pieces in the dish. The goose must be all larded, and basted over with butter, to make her the more fit to be eaten, and may roast the better: put then fire about her, but do not make too much haste, when as you see her begin to roast; for by walking about, and flying here and there, being cooped in by the fire that stops her way out, the unwearied goose is kept in; she will fall to drink the water to quench her thirst and cool her heart, and all her body, and the apple-sauce will make her dung, and cleanse and empty her. And when she roasteth, and consumes inwardly, always wet her head and heart with a wet sponge; and when you see her giddy with running, and begin to stumble, her heart wants moisture, and she is roasted enough. Take her up, set her before your guests, and she will cry as you cut off any part from her, and will be almost eaten up before she be dead; it is mighty pleasant to behold!!”--See WECKER’S _Secrets of Nature_, in folio, London, 1660, p. 148. 309. [33-*]

 “We suppose Mr. Mizald stole this receipt from the kitchen of his infernal majesty; probably it might have been one of the dishes the devil ordered when he invited Nero and Caligula to a feast. ”--_A. C. , Jun. _

 This is also related in BAPTISTA PORTA’S _Natural Magicke_, fol. 1658, p. 321. This very curious (but not scarce) book contains, among other strange tricks and fancies of “the Olden Time, ” directions, “_how to_ ROAST _and_ BOIL _a fowl at the same time, so that one-half shall be_ ROASTED _and the other_ BOILED;” and “_if you have a lacke of cooks, how to persuade a goose to roast himselfe_!!”--See a second act of the above tragedy in page 80 of the Gentleman’s Magazine for January, 1809. 

 Many articles were in vogue in the 14th century, which are now obsolete. We add the following specimens of the CULINARY AFFAIRS OF DAYS OF YORE. 

 _Sauce for a goose, A. D. 1381. _

 “Take a faire panne, and set hit under the goose whill she rostes; and kepe clene the grese that droppes thereof, and put thereto a godele (good deal) of Wyn, and a litel vinegur, and verjus, and onyons mynced, or garlek; then take the gottes (gut) of the goose and slitte hom, and scrape hom clene in water and salt, and so wash hom, and hack hom small, then do all this togedur in a piffenet (pipkin), and do thereto raisinges of corance, and pouder of pepur and of ginger, and of canell and hole clowes and maces, and let hit boyle and serve hit forthe. ”

 “That unwieldy marine animal the PORPUS was dressed in a variety of modes, salted, roasted, stewed, &c. Our ancestors were not singular in their partiality to it; I find, from an ingenious friend of mine, that it is even now, A. D. 1790, sold in the markets of most towns in Portugal; the flesh of it is intolerably hard and rancid. ”--WARNER’S _Antiq. Cul. _ 4to. P. 15. 

 “The SWAN[33-+] was also a dish of state, and in high fashion when the elegance of the feast was estimated by the magnitude of the articles of which it was composed; the number consumed at the Earl of Northumberland’s table, A. D. 1512, amounted to twenty. ”--_Northumberland Household-book_, p. 108. 

 “The CRANE was a darling dainty in _William the Conqueror’s_ time, and so partial was that monarch to it, that when his prime favourite, William Fitz-Osborne, the steward of the household, served him with a crane scarcely half roasted, the king was so highly exasperated, that he lifted up his fist, and would have strucken him, had not _Eudo_ (appointed _Dapifer_ immediately after) warded off the blow. ”--WARNER’S _Antiq. Cul. _ p. 12. 

 SEALS, CURLEWS, HERONS, BITTERNS, and the PEACOCK, that noble bird, “the food of lovers and the meat of lords, ” were also at this time in high fashion, when the baronial entertainments were characterized by a grandeur and pompous ceremonial, approaching nearly to the magnificence of royalty; there was scarcely any royal or noble feast without PECOKKES, which were stuffed with spices and sweet herbs, roasted and served up whole, and covered after dressing with the skin and feathers; the beak and comb gilt, and the tail spread, and some, instead of the feathers, covered it with leaf gold; it was a common dish on grand occasions, and continued to adorn the English table till the beginning of the seventeenth century. 

 In Massinger’s play of “The City Madam, ” Holdfast, exclaiming against city luxury, says, “three fat wethers bruised, to make sauce for a single peacock. ”

 This bird is one of those luxuries which were often sought, because they were seldom found: its scarcity and external appearance are its only recommendation; the meat of it is tough and tasteless. 

 Another favourite dish at the tables of our forefathers, was a PIE of stupendous magnitude, out of which, on its being opened, a flock of living birds flew forth, to the no small surprise and amusement of the guests. 

 “Four-and-twenty blackbirds baked in a pie; When the pie was open’d, the birds began to sing-- Oh! what a dainty dish--’t is fit for any king. ”

 This was a common joke at an old English feast. These _animated_ pies were often introduced “to set on, ” as Hamlet says, “a quantity of barren spectators to laugh;” there is an instance of a dwarf undergoing such an _incrustation_. About the year 1630, king Charles and his queen were entertained by the duke and dutchess of Buckingham, at Burleigh on the Hill, on which occasion JEFFERY HUDSON, _the dwarf_, was served up in a cold pie. --See WALPOLE’S _Anecdotes of Painting_, vol. Ii. P. 14. 

 The BARON OF BEEF was another favourite and substantial support of old English hospitality. 

 Among the most polished nations of the 15th and 16th centuries, the _powdered_ (salted) _horse_, seems to have been a dish in some esteem: _Grimalkin_ herself could not escape the undistinguishing fury of the cook. Don Anthony of Guevera, the chronicler to Charles V. , gives the following account of a feast at which he was present. “I will tell you no lye, I sawe such kindes of meates eaten, as are wont to be sene, but not eaten--_as a_ HORSE _roasted_--a CAT _in gely_--LYZARDS in hot brothe, FROGGES fried, ” &c. 

 While we are thus considering the curious dishes of olden times, we will cursorily mention the _singular diet_ of two or three nations of antiquity, noticed by _Herodotus_, lib. Iv. “The _Androphagi_ (the cannibals of the ancient world) greedily devoured the carcasses of their fellow-creatures; while the inoffensive _Cabri_ (a Scythian tribe) found both food and drink in the agreeable nut of the Pontic tree. The _Lotophagi_ lived entirely on the fruit of the _Lotus tree_. The savage _Troglodyte_ esteemed a _living serpent_ the most delicate of all morsels; while the capricious palate of the _Zyguntini_ preferred the _ape_ to every thing. ”--Vide WARNER’S _Antiq. Cul. _ p. 135. 

 “The Romans, in the luxurious period of their empire, took five meals a day; a breakfast (_jentaculum_;) a dinner, which was a light meal without any formal preparation (_prandium_); a kind of _tea_, as we should call it, between dinner and supper (_merenda_); a supper (_cæna_), which was their great meal, and commonly consisted of two courses; the first of meats, the second, what we call a dessert; and a posset, or something delicious after supper (_commissatio_). ”--ADAM’S _Rom. Antiq. _ 2d edition, 8vo. 1792, p. 434 and 447. 

 “The Romans usually began their entertainments with eggs, and ended with fruits; hence, AB OVO USQUE AD MALA, from the beginning to the end of supper, _Horat. Sat. _ i. 3. 6; _Cic. Fam. _ ix. 20. 

 “The dishes (_edulia_) held in the highest estimation by the Romans, are enumerated, _Gell. _ vii. 16, _Macrob. Sat. _ ii. 9, _Martial. _ v. 79, ix. 48, xi. 53, &c. , a peacock (PAVO), _Horat. Sat. _ ii. 2. 23, _Juvenal. _ i. 143, first used by Hortensius, the orator, at a supper, which he gave when admitted into the college of priests, (_aditiali cænd sacerdotii_, ) Plin. X. 20, s. 23; a pheasant, (PHASIANA, _ex_ Phasi. _Colchidis fluvio_, ) Martial. Iii. 58, xiii. 72, Senec. Ad Helv. 9, Petron. 79, Manil. V. 372; a bird called _Attagen_ vel-_ena_, from Ionia or Phrygia, _Horat. Epod. _ ii. 54, _Martial. _ xiii. Iii. 61, a guinea-hen, (_avis Afra_, Horat. Ib. _Gallina Numidica_ vel _Africana_, Juvenal, xi. 142, Martial, xiii. 73); a Melian crane; an Ambracian kid; nightingales, _lusciniæ_; thrushes, _turdi_; ducks, geese, &c. TOMACULUM, (ἁ τεμνω, ) _vel_ ISICIUM, (ab _inseco_;) sausages or puddings, _Juvenal. _ x. 355. _Martial. _ 42. 9, _Petron. _ 31. ”--Vide _ibid. _ p. 447. 

 That the English reader may be enabled to form some idea of the heterogeneous messes with which the Roman palate was delighted, I introduce the following receipt from _Apicius_. 

 “THICK SAUCE FOR A BOILED CHICKEN. --Put the following ingredients into a mortar: aniseed, dried mint, and lazar-root (similar to assafœtida), cover them with vinegar; add dates; pour in liquamen, oil, and a small quantity of mustard seeds; reduce all to a proper thickness with port wine warmed; and then pour this same over your chicken, which should previously be boiled in anise-seed water. ”

 _Liquamen_ and _Garum_ were synonymous terms for the same thing; the former adopted in the room of the latter, about the age of _Aurelian_. It was a liquid, and thus prepared: the _guts_ of large fish, and a variety of small fish, were put into a vessel and well salted, and exposed to the sun till they became putrid. A liquor was produced in a short time, which being strained off, was the _liquamen_. --Vide LISTER _in Apicium_, p. 16, notes. 

 _Essence of anchovy_, as it is usually made for sale, when it has been opened about ten days, is not much unlike the Roman _liquamen_. See No. 433. Some suppose it was the same thing as the Russian _Caviar_, which is prepared from the roe of the sturgeon. 

 The BLACK BROTH of _Lacedæmon_ will long continue to excite the wonder of the philosopher, and the disgust of the epicure. What the ingredients of this sable composition were, we cannot exactly ascertain. _Jul. Pollux_ says, the Lacedæmonian black broth was _blood_, thickened in a certain way: Dr. LISTER (_in Apicium_) supposes it to have been _hog’s blood_; if so, this celebrated Spartan dish bore no very distant resemblance to the _black-puddings_ of our days. It could not be a very _alluring_ mess, since a citizen of _Sybaris_ having tasted it, declared it was no longer a matter of astonishment with him, why the _Spartans_ were so fearless of death, since any one in his senses would much rather die, than exist on such execrable food. --Vide _Athenæum_, lib. Iv. C. 3. When Dionysius the tyrant had tasted the _black broth_, he exclaimed against it as miserable stuff; the cook replied--“It was no wonder, for the sauce was wanting. ” “What sauce?” says Dionysius. The answer was, --“_Labour and exercise, hunger and thirst, these are the sauces we Lacedæmonians use_, ” and they make the coarsest fare agreeable. --CICERO, 3 Tuscul. 

FOOTNOTES:

[15-*] “The STOMACH is the grand organ of the human system, uponthe state of which all the powers and feelings of the individualdepend. ”--_See_ HUNTER’S _Culina_, p. 13. 

“The faculty the stomach has of communicating the impressions made bythe various substances that are put into it, is such, that it seems morelike a nervous expansion of the brain, than a mere receptacle forfood. ”--Dr. WATERHOUSE’S _Lecture on Health_, p. 4. 

[17-*] I wish most heartily that the restorative process was performedby us poor mortals in as easy and simple a manner as it is in “_thecooking animals in the moon_, ” who “lose no time at their meals; butopen their left side, and place the whole quantity at once in theirstomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next month, for theynever indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in ayear. ”--_See_ BARON MUNCHAUSEN’S _Travels_, p. 188. 

Pleasing the palate is the main end in most books of cookery, but _it ismy aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome_; but, after all, however the hale gourmand may at first differ from me in opinion, thelatter is the chief concern; since if he be even so entirely devoted tothe pleasure of eating as to think of no other, still the care of hishealth becomes part of that; if he is sick he cannot relish his food. 

“The term _gourmand_, or EPICURE, has been strangely perverted; it hasbeen conceived synonymous with a glutton, ‘_né pour la digestion_, ’ whowill eat as long as he can sit, and drink longer than he can stand, norleave his cup while he can lift it; or like the great eater of Kent whomFULLER places among his worthies, and tells us that he did eat with ease_thirty dozens of pigeons_ at one meal; at another, _fourscore rabbits_and _eighteen yards of black pudding_, London measure!--or a fastidiousappetite, only to be excited by fantastic dainties, as the brains of_peacocks_ or _parrots_, the tongues of _thrushes_ or _nightingales_, orthe teats of a lactiferous _sow_. 

“In the acceptation which I give to the term EPICURE, it means only theperson who has good sense and good taste enough to wish to have his foodcooked according to scientific principles; that is to say, so preparedthat the palate be not offended--that it be rendered easy of solution inthe stomach, and ultimately contribute to health; exciting him as ananimal to the vigorous enjoyment of those recreations and duties, physical and intellectual, which constitute the happiness and dignity ofhis nature. ” For this illustration I am indebted to my scientific friend_Apicius Cælius, Jun. _, with whose erudite observations several pages ofthis work are enriched, to which I have affixed the signature _A. C. , Jun. _

[18-*] “Although AIR is more immediately necessary to life than FOOD, the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance; it admitscertainly of great variety, and a choice is more frequently in ourpower. A very spare and simple diet has commonly been recommended asmost conducive to health; but it would be more beneficial to mankind ifwe could show them that a pleasant and varied diet was equallyconsistent with health, as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or themiller of Essex. These, and other abstemious people, who, havingexperienced the greatest extremities of bad health, were driven totemperance as their last resource, may run out in praises of a simplediet; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of formersufferings could have given them the resolution to persevere in sostrict a course of abstinence, which persons who are in health and haveno such apprehension could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would not long continue. 

“In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of humannature: the desires and appetites of mankind must, to a certain degree, be gratified, and the man who wishes to be most useful will imitate theindulgent parent, who, while he endeavours to promote the true interestsof his children, allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocentpleasures which they take delight in. If it could be pointed out tomankind that some articles used as food were hurtful, while others werein their nature innocent, and that the latter were numerous, various, and pleasant, they might, perhaps, be induced to forego those which werehurtful, and confine themselves to those which were innocent. ”--_See_Dr. STARK’S _Experiments on Diet_, pp. 89 and 90. 

[19-*] See a curious account in COURS GASTRONOMIQUE, p. 145, and inAnacharsis’ Travels, Robinson, 1796, vol. Ii. P. 58, and _Obs. _ and noteunder No. 493. 

[19-+] See the 2d, 3d, and 4th pages of Sir WM. TEMPLE’S _Essay on theCure of the Gout by Moxa_. 

[20-*] “He that would have a _clear head_, must have a _cleanstomach_. ”--Dr. CHEYNE _on Health_, 8vo. 1724, p. 34. 

“It is sufficiently manifest how much uncomfortable feelings of thebowels affect the nervous system, and how immediately and completely thegeneral disorder is relieved by an alvine evacuation. ”--p. 53. 

“We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the nervous system, whilethere is disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive nopermanent source of strength but from the digestion of our food, itbecomes important on this account that we should attend to its quantity, quality, and the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its properdigestion. ”--ABERNETHY’S _Sur. Obs. _ 8vo. 1817, p. 65. 

[20-+] “If science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind, itmust be in this department; the real comfort of the majority of men inthis country is sought for at their own fireside; how desirable does itthen become to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all themeans of philosophy to increase domestic happiness!”--SYLVESTER’S_Philosophy of Domestic Economy_, 4to. 1819, p. 17. 

[20-++] The best books of cookery have been written by physicians. --SirKENELME DIGBY--Sir THEODORE MAYERNE. --See the last quarter of page 304of vol. X. Of the _Phil. Trans. _ for 1675. --Professor BRADLEY--Dr. HILL--Dr. LE COINTE--Dr. HUNTER, &c. 

“To understand the THEORY OF COOKERY, we must attend to the action ofheat upon the various constituents of alimentary substances as applieddirectly and indirectly through the medium of some fluid, in the formerway as exemplified. ” In the processes of ROASTING and BOILING, the chiefconstituents of animal substances undergo the following changes--the_fibrine_ is corrugated, the _albumen_ coagulated, the _gelatine_ and_osmazome_ rendered more soluble in water, the _fat_ liquefied, and the_water_ evaporated. 

“If the heat exceed a certain degree, the surface becomes first brown, and then scorched. In consequence of these changes, the muscular fibrebecomes opaque, shorter, firmer, and drier; the tendons less opaque, softer, and gluey; the fat is either melted out, or renderedsemi-transparent. Animal fluids become more transparent: the albumen iscoagulated and separated, and they dissolve gelatine and osmazome. 

“Lastly, and what is the most important change, and the immediate objectof all cookery, the meat loses the vapid nauseous smell and tastepeculiar to its raw state, and it becomes savoury and grateful. 

“Heat applied through the intervention of boiling oil, or melted fat, asin FRYING, produces nearly the same changes; as the heat is sufficientto evaporate the water, and to induce a degree of scorching. 

“But when water is the medium through which heat is applied--as inBOILING, STEWING, and BAKING, the effects are somewhat different, as theheat never exceeds 212°, which is not sufficient to commence the processof browning or decomposition, and the soluble constituents are removedby being dissolved in the water, forming soup or broth; or, if thedirect contact of the water be prevented, they are dissolved in thejuices of the meat, and separate in the form of gravy. ”

Vide Supplement to _Encyclop. Brit. Edin. _ vol. Iv. P. 344, the article“FOOD, ” to which we refer our reader as the most scientific paper on thesubject we have seen. 

[21-*] “Health, beauty, strength, and spirits, and I might add all thefaculties of the mind, depend upon the organs of the body; when theseare in good order, the thinking part is most alert and active, thecontrary when they are disturbed or diseased. ”--Dr. CADOGAN _on NursingChildren_, 8vo. 1757, p. 5. 

[22-*] “We have some good families in England of the name of _Cook_ or_Coke_. I know not what they may think; but they may depend upon it, they all originally sprang from real and professional cooks; and theyneed not be ashamed of their extraction, any more than the _Parkers, Butlers, &c. _”--Dr. PEGGE’S _Forme of Cury_, p. 162. 

[22-+] It is said, there are SEVEN _chances against even the most simpledish being presented to the mouth in absolute perfection_; for instance, A LEG OF MUTTON. 

1st. --The mutton must be _good_. 2d. --Must have been kept a _good_ time. 3d. --Must be roasted at a _good_ fire. 4th. --By a _good_ cook. 5th. --Whomust be in _good_ temper. 6th. --With all this felicitous combination youmust have _good_ luck; and, 7th. --_Good_ appetite. --The meat, and themouths which are to eat it, must be ready for action at the same moment. 

[23-*] To guard against “_la gourmandise_” of the second table, “provideeach of your servants with a large pair of spectacles of the highestmagnifying power, and never permit them to sit down to any meal withoutwearing them; they are as necessary, and as useful in a kitchen as potsand kettles: they will make a _lark_ look as large as a FOWL, a _goose_as big as a SWAN, a leg of mutton as large as a hind quarter of beef; atwopenny loaf as large as a quartern;” and as philosophers assure youthat pain even is only imaginary, we may justly believe the same ofhunger; and if a servant who eats no more than one pound of food, imagines, by the aid of these glasses, that he has eaten three pounds, his hunger will be as fully satisfied--and the addition to youroptician’s account, will soon be overpaid by the subtraction from yourbutcher’s and baker’s. 

[25-*] Much real reformation might be effected, and most gratefulservices obtained, if families which consist wholly of females, wouldtake servants recommended from the MAGDALEN--PENITENTIARY--orGUARDIAN--who seek to be restored to virtuous society. 

“_Female servants_ who pursue an honest course, have to travel, in theirpeculiar orbit, through a more powerfully resisting medium than perhapsany other class of people in civilized life; they should be treated withsomething like Christian kindness: for want of this, a fault which mightat the time have been easily amended has become the source ofinterminable sorrow. ”

“By the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known tothe writer, two servants have become happy wives, who, had they been insome situations, would have been literally outcasts. ”

A most laudable SOCIETY for the ENCOURAGEMENT of FEMALE SERVANTS, by agratuitous registry, and by rewards, was instituted in 1813; plans ofwhich may be had _gratis_ at the Society’s House, No. 10, Hatton Garden. The above is an extract from the REV. H. G. WATKINS’S _Hints to Heads ofFamilies_, a work well deserving the attentive consideration ofinexperienced housekeepers. 

[26-*] The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion, that hiscook’s health be preserved: one hundredth part of the attention usuallybestowed on his dog, or his horse, will suffice to regulate her animalsystem. 

“Cleanliness, and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam, should be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen; thegrand scene of action, the fire-place, should be placed where it mayreceive plenty of light; hitherto the contrary has prevailed, and thepoor cook is continually basted with her own perspiration. ”--_A. C. , Jun. _

“The most experienced artists in cookery cannot be certain of their workwithout tasting: they must be incessantly tasting. The spoon of a goodcook is continually passing from the stewpan to his tongue; nothing butfrequent tasting his sauces, ragoûts, &c. Can discover to him whatprogress they have made, or enable him to season a soup with anycertainty of success; his palate, therefore, must be in the higheststate of excitability, that the least fault may be perceived in aninstant. 

“But, alas! the constant empyreumatic fumes of the stoves, the necessityof frequent drinking, and often of bad beer, to moisten a parchedthroat; in short, every thing around him conspires quickly to vitiatethe organs of taste; the palate becomes blunted; its quickness offeeling and delicacy, on which the sensibility of the organs of tastedepends, grows daily more obtuse; and in a short time the gustatorynerve becomes quite unexcitable. 

“IF YOU FIND YOUR COOK NEGLECT HIS BUSINESS--that his _ragoûts_ are toohighly spiced or salted, and his cookery has too much of the ‘_hautgoût_, ’ you may be sure that _his index of taste_ wants regulating; hispalate has lost its sensibility, and it is high time to call in theassistance of the apothecary. 

“‘_Purger souvent_’ is the grand maxim in all kitchens where _le Maîtred’Hôtel_ has any regard for the reputation of his table. _Les BonsHommes de Bouche_ submit to the operation without a murmur; to bindothers, it should be made the first condition in hiring them. Those whorefuse, prove they were not born to become masters of their art; andtheir indifference to fame will rank them, as they deserve, among thoseslaves who pass their lives in as much obscurity as their own stewpans. ”

To the preceding observations from the “_Almanach des Gourmands_, ” wemay add, that the _Mouthician_ will have a still better chance ofsuccess, if he can prevail on his master to observe the same _régime_which he orders for his cook; or, instead of endeavouring to awaken anidle appetite by reading the index to a cookery book, or an additionaluse of the pepper-box and salt-cellar, rather seek it from abstinence orexercise;--the philosophical _gourmand_ will consider that the edge ofour appetite is generally keen, in proportion to the activity of ourother habits; let him attentively peruse our “PEPTIC PRECEPTS, ” &c. Which briefly explain the art of refreshing the gustatory nerves, and ofinvigorating the whole system. See in the following chapter onINVITATIONS TO DINNER--A recipe to make FORTY PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS. 

[27-*] “She must be quick and strong of sight; her hearing most acute, that she may be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble, although they be closely covered, and that she may be alarmed before thepot boils over; her auditory nerve ought to discriminate (when severalsaucepans are in operation at the same time) the simmering of one, theebullition of another, and the full-toned wabbling of a third. 

“It is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highlysusceptible of the various effluvia, that her nose may distinguish theperfection of aromatic ingredients, and that in animal substances itshall evince a suspicious accuracy between tenderness and putrefaction;above all, her olfactories should be tremblingly alive to mustiness andempyreuma. 

“It is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate, that we admire andjudge of the cook; from the alliance between the olfactory and sapidorgans, it will be seen that their perfection is indispensable. ”--_A. C. , Jun. _

[28-*] A facetious _gourmand_ suggests that the old story of “lighting acandle to the devil, ” probably arose from this adage--and was anoffering presented to his infernal majesty by some epicure who was inwant of a cook. 

[29-*] “A gentlewoman being at table, abroad or at home, must observe tokeep her body straight, and lean not by any means with her elbows, norby ravenous gesture discover a voracious appetite: talk not when youhave _meat_ in your _mouth_; and do not smack like _a pig_, nor ventureto eat _spoonmeat_ so hot that the tears stand in your eyes, which is asunseemly as the _gentlewoman_ who pretended to have as little a_stomach_ as she had a _mouth_, and therefore would not swallow her_pease_ by spoonfuls; but took them one by one, and cut them in twobefore she would eat them. It is very uncomely to drink so large a_draught_ that your _breath_ is almost gone--and are forced to blowstrongly to recover yourself--throwing down your _liquor_ as into a_funnel_ is an action fitter for a juggler than a _gentlewoman_: thusmuch for your observations in general; if I am defective as toparticulars, your own _prudence, discretion, and curious observations_will supply. ”

“In CARVING at your own _table_, distribute the best pieces first, andit will appear very comely and decent to use a _fork_; so touch no pieceof _meat_ without it. ”

“_Mem. _ The English are indebted to TOM CORYAT for introducing THE FORK, for which they called him _Furcifer_. ”--See his _Crudities_, vol. I. P. 106. --Edit. 1776, 8vo. 

[30-*] “Almost all arts and sciences are more or less encumbered withvulgar errors and prejudices, which avarice and ignorance haveunfortunately sufficient influence to preserve, by help (or hindrance)of mysterious, undefinable, and not seldom unintelligible, technicalterms--Anglicè, nicknames--which, instead of enlightening the subject itis professedly pretended they were invented to illuminate, serve but toshroud it in almost impenetrable obscurity; and, in general, soextravagantly fond are the professors of an art of keeping up all thepomp, circumstance, and mystery of it, and of preserving the accumulatedprejudices of ages past undiminished, that one might fairly supposethose who have had the courage and perseverance to overcome theseobstacles, and penetrate the veil of science, were delighted withplacing difficulties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them, on purpose to deter them from the pursuit, and that they cannot bearothers should climb the hill of knowledge by a readier road than theythemselves did: and such is _l’esprit de corps_, that as theirpredecessors supported themselves by serving it out _gradatim etstillatim_, and retailing with a sparing hand the information they sohardly obtained, they find it convenient to follow their example: and, willing to do as they have been done by, leave and bequeath theinheritance undiminished to those who may succeed them. ”--See p. 10 ofDr. KITCHINER _on Telescopes_, 12mo. 1825, printed for Whittaker, AveMaria Lane. 

[32-*] “In the present language of cookery, there has been a wofuldeparture from the simplicity of our ancestors, --such a farrago ofunappropriate and unmeaning terms, many corrupted from the French, others disguised from the Italian, some misapplied from the German, while many are a disgrace to the English. What can any person suppose tobe the meaning of _a shoulder of lamb in epigram_, unless it were a poordish, for a pennyless poet? _Aspect of fish_, would appear calculatedfor an astrologer; and _shoulder of mutton surprised_, designed for asheep-stealer. ”--_A. C. , Jun. _

[33-*] See note to No. 59 how to plump the liver of a goose. 

[33-+] “It is a curious illustration of the _de gustibus non eatdisputandum_, that the ancients considered the _swan_ as a highdelicacy, and abstained from the flesh of the _goose_ as impure andindigestible. ”--MOUBRAY _on Poultry_, p. 36. 

INVITATIONS TO DINNER

In “the affairs of the mouth” the strictest punctuality isindispensable; the GASTRONOMER ought to be as accurate an observer oftime, as the ASTRONOMER. The least delay produces fatal and irreparablemisfortunes. 

Almost all other ceremonies and civil duties may be put off for severalhours without much inconvenience, and all may be postponed withoutabsolute danger. A little delay may try the patience of those who arewaiting; but the act itself will be equally perfect and equally valid. Procrastination sometimes is rather advantageous than prejudicial. Itgives time for reflection, and may prevent our taking a step which wouldhave made us miserable for life; the delay of a courier has preventedthe conclusion of a convention, the signing of which might haveoccasioned the ruin of a nation. 

If, from affairs the most important, we descend to our pleasures andamusements, we shall find new arguments in support of our assertions. The putting off of a rendezvous, or a ball, &c. Will make them the moredelightful. To _hope_ is to _enjoy_. 

 “Man never is, but always to be blest. ”

The anticipation of pleasure warms our imagination, and keeps thosefeelings alive, which possession too often extinguishes. 

 “’Tis _expectation_ only makes us blest; _Enjoyment_ disappoints us at the best. ”

Dr. Johnson has most sagaciously said; “Such is the state of life, thatnone are happy, but by the anticipation of change: the change itself isnothing: when we have made it, the next wish is, immediately to changeagain. ”

However singular our assertions may have at first appeared to those whohave not considered the subject, we hope by this time we have madeconverts of our readers, and convinced the “_Amateurs de Bonne Chère_”of the truth and importance of our remarks; and that they will remember, that DINNER is the only act of the day which cannot be put off withimpunity, for even FIVE MINUTES. 

In a well-regulated family, all the clocks and watches should agree; onthis depends the fate of the dinner; what would be agreeable to thestomach, and restorative to the system, if served at FIVE o’clock, willbe uneatable and innutritive and indigestible at A QUARTER PAST. 

The dining-room should be furnished with a good-going clock; the spaceover the kitchen fire-place with another, vibrating in unison with theformer, so placed, that the cook may keep one eye on the clock, and theother on the spit, &c. She will calculate to a minute the time requiredto roast a large capon or a little lark, and is equally attentive to thedegree of heat of her stove, and the time her sauce remains on it, whento withdraw the bakings from the oven, the roast from the spit, and thestew from the pan. 

With all our love of punctuality, the first consideration must still be, that the dinner “be well done, when ’t is done. ”

It is a common fault with cooks who are anxious about time, to overdressevery thing--the guests had better wait than the dinner--a little delaywill improve their appetite; but if the dinner waits for the guests, itwill be deteriorated every minute: the host who wishes to entertain hisfriends with food perfectly well dressed, while he most earnestlyendeavours to impress on their minds the importance of being punctual tothe appointed hour, will still allow his cook a quarter of an hour’sgrace. 

The old adage that “the eye is often bigger than the belly, ” is oftenverified by the ridiculous vanity of those who wish to make anappearance above their fortune. Nothing can be more ruinous to realcomfort than the too common custom of setting out a table, with a paradeand a profusion, unsuited not only to the circumstances of the hosts, but to the number of the guests; or more fatal to true hospitality, thanthe multiplicity of dishes which luxury has made fashionable at thetables of the great, the wealthy, and the ostentatious, who are, often, neither great nor wealthy. 

Such pompous preparation, instead of being a compliment to our guests, is nothing better than an indirect offence; it is a tacit insinuation, that it is absolutely necessary to provide such delicacies to bribe thedepravity of their palates, when we desire the pleasure of theircompany; and that society now, must be purchased, at the same priceSWIFT told POPE he was obliged to pay for it in Ireland. “I shouldhardly prevail to find one visiter, if I were not able to hire him witha bottle of wine. ” Vide Swift’s letters to Pope, July 10th, 1732. 

When twice as much cooking is undertaken as there are servants, orconveniences in the kitchen to do it properly, dishes must be dressedlong before the dinner hour, and stand by spoiling--the poor cook losesher credit, and the poor guests get indigestions. Why prepare for eightor ten friends, more than sufficient for twenty or thirty visiters?“Enough is as good as a feast, ” and a prudent provider, who sensiblytakes measure of the stomachic, instead of the SILLY ocular, appetite ofhis guests, may entertain his friends, three times as often, and tentimes as well. 

It is your SENSELESS SECOND COURSES--ridiculous variety of WINES, LIQUEURS, ICES, [38-*] DESSERTS, &c. --which are served up merely to feedthe eye, or pamper palled appetite, that _overcome the stomach andparalyze digestion_, and seduce “children of a larger growth” tosacrifice the health and comfort of several days, for the baby-pleasureof tickling their tongue for a few minutes, with trifles and custards!!!&c. &c. 

“INDIGESTION will sometimes overtake the most experienced epicure; whenthe gustatory nerves are in good humour, hunger and savoury viands willsometimes seduce the tongue of a ‘_grand gourmand_’ to betray theinterests of his stomach in spite of his brains. 

“On such an unfortunate occasion, when the stomach sends fortheructant[38-+] signals of distress, the _peristaltic persuaders_ are asagreeable and effectual assistance as can be offered; and for delicateconstitutions, and those that are impaired by age or intemperance, are avaluable panacea. 

“They derive, and deserve this name, from the peculiar mildness of theiroperation. One or two very gently increase the action of the principalviscera, help them to do their work a little faster, and enable thestomach to serve with an ejectment whatever offends it, and move it intothe bowels. 

“Thus _indigestion_ is easily and speedily removed, _appetite_ restored, the mouths of the absorbing vessels being cleansed, _nutrition_ isfacilitated, and _strength_ of body, and _energy_ of mind, are the happyresults. ” See “PEPTIC PRECEPTS, ” from which we extract the followingprescription--

To make FORTY PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS, Take

 Turkey rhubarb, finely pulverized, two drachms, Syrup (by weight), one drachm, Oil of carraway, ten drops (minims), Made into pills, each of which will contain _three grains of rhubarb_. 

“The DOSE OF THE PERSUADERS must be adapted to the constitutionalpeculiarity of the patient. When you wish to accelerate or augment thealvine exoneration, take two, three, or more, according to the effectyou desire to produce. _Two pills_ will do as much for one person, as_five or six_ will for another: they will generally very regularlyperform what you wish to-day, without interfering with what you hopewill happen to-morrow; and are therefore as convenient an argumentagainst constipation as any we are acquainted with. 

“The most convenient opportunity to introduce them to the stomach, isearly in the morning, when it is unoccupied, and has no particularbusiness of digestion, &c. To attend to--i. E. At least half an hourbefore breakfast. Physic must never interrupt the stomach, when it isbusy in digesting food. 

“From two to four persuaders will generally produce one additionalmotion, within twelve hours. They may be taken at any time by the mostdelicate females, whose constitutions are so often distressed byconstipation, and destroyed by the drastic purgatives they take torelieve it. ”

The cloth[39-*] should be laid in the parlour, and all the paraphernaliaof the dinner-table completely arranged, at least half an hour beforedinner-time. 

The cook’s labour will be lost, if the parlour-table be not ready foraction, and the eaters ready for the eatables, which the least delaywill irreparably injure: therefore, the GOURMAND will be punctual forthe sake of gratifying his ruling passion; the INVALID, to avoid thedanger of encountering an _indigestion_ from eating ill-dressed food;and the RATIONAL EPICURE, who happily attends the banquet with “_menssana in corpore sano_, ” will keep the time not only for these strongreasons, but that he may not lose the advantage of being introduced tothe other guests. He considers not only what is on the table, but whoare around it: his principal inducement to leave his own fireside, isthe charm of agreeable and instructive society, and the opportunity ofmaking connexions, which may augment the interest and enjoyment ofexistence. 

It is the most pleasing part of the duty of the master of the feast(especially when the guests are not very numerous), to take advantage ofthese moments to introduce them to one another, naming them individuallyin an audible voice, and adroitly laying hold of those ties ofacquaintanceship or profession which may exist between them. 

This will much augment the pleasures of the festive board, to which itis indeed as indispensable a prelude, as an overture is to an opera: andthe host will thus acquire an additional claim to the gratitude of hisguests. We urge this point more strongly, because, from want ofattention to it, we have seen more than once persons whom many kindredties would have drawn closely together, pass an entire day withoutopening their lips to each other, because they were mutually ignorant ofeach other’s names, professions, and pursuits. 

To put an end at once to all ceremony as to the order in which theguests are to sit, it will save much time and trouble, if the mistressof the mansion adopts the simple and elegant method of placing the nameof each guest in the plate which is intended for him. This proceedingwill be of course the result of consideration, and the host will placethose together whom he thinks will harmonize best. 

_Le Journal des Dames_ informs us, that in several fashionable houses inParis, a new arrangement has been introduced in placing the company at adinner-table. 

“The ladies first take their places, leaving intervals for thegentlemen; after being seated, each is desired to call on a gentleman tosit beside her; and thus the lady of the house is relieved from allembarrassment of _étiquette_ as to rank and pretensions, ” &c. 

But, without doubt, says the Journalist, this method has itsinconveniences. 

“It may happen that a bashful beauty dare not name the object of hersecret wishes; and an acute observer may determine, from a singleglance, that the _elected_ is not always the _chosen_. ”

If the party is large, the founders of the feast may sit in the middleof the table, instead of at each end, thus they will enjoy the pleasureof attending equally to all their friends; and being in some degreerelieved from the occupation of carving, will have an opportunity ofadministering all those little attentions which contribute so much tothe comfort of their guests. 

If the GUESTS have any respect for their HOST, or prefer a well-dresseddinner to one that is spoiled, instead of coming half an hour after, they will take care to make their appearance a quarter of an hour beforethe time appointed. 

The operations of the cook are governed by the clock; the moment theroasts, &c. Are ready, they must go to the table, if they are to beeaten in perfection. 

An invitation to come at FIVE o’clock seems to be generally understoodto mean _six_; FIVE PRECISELY, _half past five_; and NOT LATER THAN FIVE(so that dinner may be on the table within five minutes after, allowingthis for the variation of watches), FIVE O’CLOCK EXACTLY. 

Be it known to all loyal subjects of the empire of good-living, that theCOMMITTEE OF TASTE have unanimously resolved, that “an invitation toETA. BETA. PI. Must be in writing, and sent at least ten days before thebanquet; and must be answered in writing (as soon as possible after itis received), within twenty-four hours at least, ” especially if it benot accepted: then, in addition to the usual complimentary expressionsof thanks, &c. The best possible reasons must be assigned for thenon-acceptance, as a particular pre-engagement, or severe indisposition, &c. Before the bearer of it delivers it, he should ascertain if theperson it is directed to is at home; if he is not, when he will be; andif he is not in town, to bring the summons back. 

Nothing can be more disobliging than a refusal which is not grounded onsome very strong and unavoidable cause, --except not coming at theappointed hour;--“according to the laws of conviviality, a certificatefrom a sheriff’s officer, a doctor, or an undertaker, are the only pleaswhich are admissible. The duties which invitation imposes do not fallonly on the persons invited, but, like all other social duties, arereciprocal. 

“As he who has accepted an invitation cannot disengage himself from it;the master of the feast cannot put off the entertainment on any pretencewhatever. Urgent business, sickness, not even death itself, can dispensewith the obligation which he is under of giving the entertainment forwhich he has sent out invitations, which have been accepted; for in theextreme cases of compulsory absence, or death, his place may be filledby his friend or executor. ”--_Vide le Manuel des Amphitryons_, 8vo. _Paris_, 1808; and _Cours Gastronomique_, 1809; to which the reader isreferred for farther instructions. 

It is the least punishment that a blundering, ill-bred booby canreceive, who comes half an hour after the time he was bidden, to findthe soup removed, and the fish cold: moreover, for such an offence, lethim also be _mulcted_ in a pecuniary penalty, to be applied to the FUNDFOR THE BENEFIT OF DECAYED COOKS. This is the least punishment that canbe inflicted on one whose silence, or violation of an engagement, tendsto paralyze an entertainment, and to draw his friend into uselessexpense. 

BOILEAU, the French satirist, has a shrewd observation on this subject. “I have always been punctual at the hour of dinner, ” says the bard; “forI knew, that all those whom I kept waiting at that provoking interval, would employ those unpleasant moments to sum up all my faults. --BOILEAUis indeed a man of genius, a very honest man; but that dilatory andprocrastinating way he has got into, would mar the virtues of an angel. ”

There are some who seldom keep an appointment: we can assure them theyas seldom “’scape without whipping, ” and exciting those murmurs whichinevitably proceed from the best-regulated stomachs, when they areempty, and impatient to be filled. 

The most amiable animals when hungry become ill-tempered: our bestfriends employ the time they are kept waiting, in recollecting andrepeating any real faults we have, and attributing to us a thousandimaginary ones. 

Ill-bred beings, who indulge their own caprice, regardless how theywound the feelings of others, if they possess brilliant and usefultalents, may occasionally be endured as convenient tools; but deceivethemselves sadly, even though they possess all the wisdom, and all thewit in the world, if they fancy they can ever be esteemed as friends. 

Wait for no one: as soon as the clock strikes, say grace, and begin thebusiness of the day, “And good digestion wait on appetite, And health on both. ”

MANNERS MAKE THE MAN. 

Good manners have often made the fortune of many, who have had nothingelse to recommend them:

Ill manners have as often marred the hope of those who have had everything else to advance them. 

These regulations may appear a little rigorous to those phlegmaticphilosophers, “Who, past all pleasures, damn the joys of sense, With rev’rend dulness and grave impotence, ”

and are incapable of comprehending the importance (especially when manyare invited) of a truly hospitable entertainment: but genuine_connoisseurs_ in the science of good cheer will vote us thanks for ourendeavours to initiate well-disposed _amateurs_. 

CARVING. 

Ceremony does not, in any thing, more commonly and completely triumphover comfort, than in the administration of “the honours of the table. ”

Those who serve out the loaves and fishes seldom seem to understand thathe is the best carver who fills the plates of the greatest number ofguests, in the least portion of time. 

To effect this, fill the plates and send them round, instead of askingeach individual if they choose soup, fish, &c. Or what particular partthey prefer; for, as they cannot all be choosers, you will thus escapemaking any invidious distinctions. 

A dexterous CARVER[43-*] (especially if he be possessed with thatdetermined enemy to ceremony and sauce, a keen appetite, ) will help halfa dozen people in half the time one of your would-be-thought politefolks wastes in making civil faces, &c. To a single guest. 

It would save a great deal of time, &c. If POULTRY, especially largeturkeys and geese, were sent to table ready cut up. (No. 530. *)

FISH that is fried should be previously divided into such portions asare fit to help at table. (See No. 145. )

A prudent carver will cut fair, [43-+] observe an equitable distributionof the dainties he is serving out, and regulate his helps, by theproportion which his dish bears to the number he has to divide it among, taking into this reckoning the _quantum_ of appetite the several guestsare presumed to possess. 

 “Study their genius, caprices, _goût_-- They, in return, may haply study you: Some wish a pinion, some prefer a leg, Some for a merry-thought, or sidesbone beg, The wings of fowls, then slices of the round The trail of woodcock, of codfish the sound. Let strict impartiality preside, Nor freak, nor favour, nor affection guide. ”

 _From the_ BANQUET. 

The guest who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitationto the board of hospitality, may calculate that the “easier he ispleased, the oftener he will be invited. ” Instead of unblushinglydemanding of the fair hostess that the prime “_tit-bit_” of every dishbe put on your plate, receive (if not with pleasure, or even content)with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness whatever is presented toyou, and forget not to praise the cook, and the same shall be reckonedunto you even as the praise of the mistress. 

The invalid or the epicure, when he dines out, to save trouble to hisfriends, may carry with him a portable MAGAZINE OF TASTE. (See No. 462. )

“If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with thereflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortificationagain: mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion will forbidhis then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. ”

“If he likes it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulatehimself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from hismaking a moderate dinner, and consolation from contemplating the doublerelish he is creating for the following meal, and anticipating the (tohim) rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and anunrestrained indulgence of his gormandizing fancies at the chop-house hefrequents. ”

“Never intrust a _cook-teaser_ with the important office of CARVER, orplace him within reach of _a sauce-boat_. These chop-house cormorants, who

 ‘Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat, ’

are, generally, tremendously officious in serving out the loaves andfishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitelyamiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on thewatch to distribute themselves the dainties which it is the peculiarpart of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them the mostpleasant part of the business of the banquet: the pleasure of helpingtheir friends is the gratification, which is their reward for thetrouble they have had in preparing the feast. Such gentry are the terrorof all good housewives: to obtain their favourite cut they will sounmercifully mangle your joints, that a dainty dog would hardly get ameal from them after; which, managed by the considerative hands of anold housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a largefamily. ”--Vide “_Almanach des Gourmands_. ”

I once heard a gentle hint on this subject, given to a _blue-mouldfancier_, who by looking too long at a Stilton cheese, was at lastcompletely overcome, by his eye exciting his appetite, till it becamequite ungovernable; and unconscious of every thing but the _mity_ objectof his contemplation, he began to pick out, in no small portions, theprimest parts his eye could select from the centre of the cheese. 

The good-natured founder of the feast, highly amused at the ecstasieseach morsel created in its passage over the palate of the enraptured_gourmand_, thus encouraged the perseverance of his guest--“Cut away, mydear sir, cut away, use no ceremony, I pray: I hope you will pick outall the best of my cheese. _Don’t you think_ that THE RIND _and the_ROTTEN _will do very well for my wife and family!!_” There is anotherset of terribly _free and easy_ folks, who are “fond of takingpossession of the throne of domestic comfort, ” and then, with all theimpudence imaginable, simper out to the ousted master of the family, “Dear me, I am afraid I have taken your place!”

_Half the trouble of_ WAITING AT TABLE _may be saved_ by giving eachguest two plates, two knives and forks, two pieces of bread, a spoon, awine-glass, and a tumbler, and placing the wines and sauces, and theMAGAZINE OF TASTE, (No. 462, ) &c. As a _dormant_, in the centre of thetable; one neighbour may then help another. 

Dinner-tables are seldom sufficiently lighted, or attended. An activewaiter will have enough to do to attend upon half a dozen active eaters. There should be about half as many candles as there are guests, andtheir flame be about eighteen inches above the table. Our foolishmodern pompous candelabras seem intended to illuminate the ceiling, rather than to give light on the plates, &c. 

Wax lights at dinner are much more elegant, and not so troublesome andso uncertain as lamps, nor so expensive; for to purchase a handsome lampwill cost you more than will furnish you with wax candles for severalyears. 

FOOTNOTES:

[38-*] Swilling cold _soda water_ immediately after eating a heartydinner, is another very unwholesome custom--take good ginger beer if youare thirsty, and don’t like Sir John Barleycorn’s cordial. 

[38-+] _Strong peppermint or ginger lozenges_ are an excellent help forthat flatulence with which some aged and dyspeptic people ate afflictedthree or four hours after dinner. 

[39-*] _Le Grand Sommelier_, or CHIEF BUTLER, in former times wasexpected to be especially accomplished in the art of folding tablelinen, so as to lay his napkins in different forms every day: thesetransformations are particularly described in ROSE’S Instructions forthe Officers of the Mouth, 1682, p. 111, &c. “To pleat a napkin in theform of a cockle-shell double”--“in the form of hen andchickens”--“shape of two capons in a pye”--or “like a dog with a collarabout his neck”--and many others equally whimsical. 

[43-*] In days of yore “_Le Grand Ecuyer Tranchant_, ” or the MASTERCARVER, was the next officer of the mouth in rank to the “_Maîtred’Hôtel_, ” and the technical terms of his art were as singular as any ofthose which ornament “Grose’s Classical Slang Dictionary, ” or “TheGipsies’ Gibberish:” the only one of these old phrases now in common useis, “cut up the TURKEY:”--we are no longer desired to “disfigure aPEACOCK”--“unbrace a DUCK”--“unlace a CONEY”--“tame a CRAB”--“tire anEGG”--and “spoil the HEN, ” &c. --See _Instructions for the Officers ofthe Mouth_, by ROSE, 1682. 

[43-+] Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting agood example to their friends at the second table. If they cut _bread_, _meat_, _cheese_, &c. FAIRLY, it will go twice as far as if they hackand mangle it, as if they had not half so much consideration for thosein the kitchen as a good sportsman has for his dogs. 

FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS, [46-*] AND OTHER SERVANTS

On your first coming into a family, lose no time in immediately gettinginto the good graces of your fellow-servants, that you may learn fromthem the customs of the kitchen, and the various rules and orders of thehouse. 

Take care to be on good terms with the servant who waits at table; makeuse of him as your sentinel, to inform you how your work has pleased inthe parlour: by his report you may be enabled in some measure to rectifyany mistake; but request the favour of an early interview with yourmaster or mistress: depend as little as possible on second-handopinions. Judge of your employers from YOUR OWN observations, and THEIRbehaviour to you, not from any idle reports from the other servants, who, if your master or mistress inadvertently drop a word in yourpraise, will immediately take alarm, and fearing your being more infavour than themselves, will seldom stick at trifles to prevent it, bypretending to take a prodigious liking to you, and poisoning your mindin such a manner as to destroy all your confidence, &c. In youremployers; and if they do not immediately succeed in worrying you away, will take care you have no comfort while you stay: be most cautious ofthose who profess most: not only beware of believing such honey-tonguedfolks, but beware as much of betraying your suspicions of them, for thatwill set fire to the train at once, and of a doubtful friend make adetermined enemy. 

If you are a good cook, and strictly do your duty, you will soon becomea favourite domestic; but never boast of the approbation of youremployers; for, in proportion as they think you rise in theirestimation, you will excite all the tricks, that envy, hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness can suggest to your fellow-servants; every oneof whom, if less sober, honest, or industrious, or less favoured thanyourself, will be your enemy. 

While we warn you against making others your enemies, take care that youdo not yourself become your own and greatest enemy. “Favourites arenever in greater danger of falling, than when in the greatest favour, ”which often begets a careless inattention to the commands of theiremployers, and insolent overbearance to their equals, a gradual neglectof duty, and a corresponding forfeiture of that regard which can only bepreserved by the means which created it. 

 “Those arts by which at first you gain it, You still must practise to maintain it. ”

If your employers are so pleased with your conduct as to treat you as afriend rather than a servant, do not let their kindness excite yourself-conceit, so as to make you for a moment forget you are one. Condescension, even to a proverb, produces contempt in inconsiderateminds; and to such, the very means which benevolence takes to cherishattention to duty, becomes the cause of the evil it is intended toprevent. 

To be an agreeable companion in the kitchen, without compromising yourduty to your patrons in the parlour, requires no small portion of goodsense and good nature: in a word, you must “do as you would be done by. ”

ACT FOR, AND SPEAK OF, EVERY BODY AS IF THEY WERE PRESENT. 

We hope the culinary student who peruses these pages will be aboveadopting the common, mean, and ever unsuccessful way of “holding withthe hare, and running with the hounds, ” of currying favour withfellow-servants by flattering them, and ridiculing the mistress when inthe kitchen, and then, prancing into the parlour and purring about her, and making opportunities to display all the little faults you can find(_or invent_) that will tell well against those in the kitchen; assuringthem, on your return, that they were _vraised_, for whatever you heardthem _blamed_, and so excite them to run more extremely into any littleerror which you think will be most displeasing to their employers;watching an opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into theirunsuspecting ears, when there is no third person to bear witness of youriniquity; making your victims believe, it is all out of your _sincereregard_ for them; assuring them (as Betty says in the man of the world, )“That indeed you are no busybody that loves fending nor proving, buthate all tittling and tattling, and gossiping and backbiting, ” &c. &c. 

Depend upon it, if you hear your fellow-servants speak disrespectfullyof a master or a mistress with whom they have lived some time, it is asure sign that they have some sinister scheme against yourself; if theyhave not been well treated, why have they stayed?

“There is nothing more detestable than defamation. I have no scruple torank a slanderer with a murderer or an assassin. Those who assault thereputation of their benefactors, and ‘rob you of that which noughtenriches them, ’ would destroy your life, if they could do it with equalimpunity. ”

“If you hope to gain the respect and esteem of others, and theapprobation of your own heart, be respectful and faithful to yoursuperiors, obliging and good-natured to your fellow-servants, andcharitable to all. ” You cannot be too careful to cultivate a meek andgentle disposition; you will find the benefit of it every day of yourlife: to promote peace and harmony around you, will not only render youa general favourite with your fellow-servants, but will make you happyin yourself. 

“Let your _character_ be remarkable for industry and moderation; your_manners_ and deportment, for modesty and humility; your _dress_distinguished for simplicity, frugality, and neatness. A dressy servantis a disgrace to a house, and renders her employers as ridiculous as shedoes herself. If you outshine your companions in finery, you willinevitably excite their envy, and make them your enemies. ”

 “Do every thing at the proper time. ” “Keep every thing in its proper place. ” “Use every thing for its proper purpose. ”

The importance of these three rules must be evident, to all who willconsider how much easier it is to return any thing when done with to itsproper place, than it is to find it when mislaid; and it is as easy toput things in one place as in another. 

Keep your kitchen and furniture as clean and neat as possible, whichwill then be an ornament to it, a comfort to your fellow-servants, anda credit to yourself. Moreover, good housewifery is the bestrecommendation to a good husband, and engages men to honourableattachment to you; she who is a tidy servant gives promise of being acareful wife. 

_Giving away Victuals. _

Giving away any thing without consent or privity of your master ormistress, is a liberty you must not take; charity and compassion for thewants of our fellow-creatures are very amiable virtues, but they are notto be indulged at the expense of your own honesty, and other people’sproperty. 

When you find that there is any thing to spare, and that it is in dangerof being spoiled by being kept too long, it is very commendable in youto ask leave to dispose of it while it is fit for Christians to eat: ifsuch permission is refused, the sin does not lie at your door. But youmust on no account bestow the least morsel in contradiction to the willof those to whom it belongs. 

“Never think any part of your business too trifling to be well done. ”

“Eagerly embrace every opportunity of learning any thing which may beuseful to yourself, or of doing any thing which may benefit others. ”

Do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight affront. “Comewhen you are called, and do what you are bid. ” Place yourself in yourmistress’s situation, and consider what you would expect from her, ifshe were in yours; and serve, reverence, and obey her accordingly. 

Although there may be “more places than parish-churches, ” it is not veryeasy to find many more good ones. 

 “A rolling stone never gathers moss. ” “Honesty is the best policy. ” “A still tongue makes a wise head. ”

_Saucy answers_ are highly aggravating, and answer no good purpose. 

Let your master or mistress scold ever so much, or be ever sounreasonable; as “a soft answer turneth away wrath, ” “so will SILENCE be_the best a servant can make_”. 

_One rude answer_, extorted perhaps by harsh words, or unmeritedcensure, has cost many a servant the loss of a good place, or the totalforfeiture of a regard which had been growing for years. 

“If your employers are hasty, and have scolded without reason, bear itpatiently; they will soon see their error, and not be happy till theymake you amends. Muttering on leaving the room, or slamming the doorafter you, is as bad as an impertinent reply; it is, in fact, showingthat you would be impertinent if you dared. ”

“A faithful servant will not only never speak disrespectfully _to_ heremployers, but will not hear disrespectful words said _of_ them. ”

Apply direct to your employers, and beg of them to explain to you, asfully as possible, how they like their victuals dressed, whether much orlittle done. [50-*]

Of what complexion they wish the ROASTS, of a gold colour, or wellbrowned, and if they like them frothed?

Do they like SOUPS and SAUCES thick or thin, or white or brown, clean orfull in the mouth? What accompaniments they are partial to?

What flavours they fancy? especially of SPICE and HERBS:

 “Namque coquus domini debet habere gulam. ”--MARTIAL. 

It is impossible that the most accomplished cook can please theirpalates, till she has learned their particular taste: this, it willhardly be expected, she can hit exactly the first time; however, thehints we have here given, and in the 7th and 8th chapters of theRudiments of Cookery, will very much facilitate the ascertainment ofthis main chance of getting into their favour. 

Be extremely cautious of seasoning high: leave it to the eaters to addthe piquante condiments, according to their own palate and fancy: forthis purpose, “THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE, ” or “_Sauce-box_, ” (No. 462, ) willbe found an invaluable acquisition; its contents will instantaneouslyproduce any flavour that may be desired. 

 “De gustibus non est disputandum. ”

Tastes are as different as faces; and without a most attentiveobservation of the directions given by her employers, the mostexperienced cook will never be esteemed a profound palatician. 

It will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous _gourmand_, wholikes his chops broiled brown, (and done enough, so that they can appearat table decently, and not blush when they are cut, ) to be told thatsome of the customers at Dolly’s chop-house choose to have them onlyhalf-done, and that this is the best way of eating them. 

We all think that is the best way which we relish best, and which agreesbest with our stomach: in this, reason and fashion, all-powerful as theyare on most occasions, yield to the imperative caprice of the palate. 

_Chacun à son goût. _

 “THE IRISHMAN loves _Usquebaugh_, the SCOT loves ale call’d _Blue-cap_, The WELCHMAN he loves _toasted cheese_, and makes his mouth like a mouse-trap. ”

Our ITALIAN neighbours regale themselves with _macaroni_ and _parmesan_, and eat some things which we call _carrion_. --Vide RAY’S _Travels_, p. 362 and 406. 

While the ENGLISHMAN boasts of his _roast beef, plum pudding, andporter_, The FRENCHMAN feeds on his favourite _frog and soupe-maigre_, The TARTAR feasts on _horse-flesh_, The CHINAMAN on _dogs_, The GREENLANDER preys on _garbage_ and _train oil_; and each “blesseshis stars, and thinks it luxury. ” What at one time or place isconsidered as beautiful, fragrant, and savoury, at another is regardedas deformed and disgustful. [51-*]

“Ask _a toad_ what is beauty, the supremely beautiful, the ΤΟ ΚΑΛΟΝ!He will tell you it is _my wife_, --with two large eyes projecting out ofher little head, a broad and flat neck, yellow belly, and dark brownback. With _a Guinea negro_, it is a greasy black skin, hollow eyes, anda flat nose. Put the question to the _devil_, and he will tell you thatBEAUTY is a pair of horns, four claws, and a tail. ”--VOLTAIRE’S _Philos. Dict. _ 8vo. P. 32. 

“_Asafœtida_ was called by the ancients ‘FOOD FOR THE GODS. ’ ThePersians, Indians, and other Eastern people, now eat it in sauces, andcall it by that name: the Germans call it _devil’s dung_. ”--_Vide_ POMET_on Drugs_. 

Garlic and clove, or allspice, combined in certain proportions, producea flavour very similar to asafœtida. 

The organ of taste is more rarely found in perfection, and is soonerspoiled by the operations of time, excessive use, &c. Than either of ourother senses. 

There are as various degrees of sensibility of palate as there are ofgradations of perfection in the eyes and ears of painters and musicians. After all the pains which the editor has taken to explain the harmony ofsubtle relishes, unless nature has given the organ of taste in a duedegree, this book will, alas! no more make an OSBORNE, [52-*] than itcan a REYNOLDS, or an ARNE, or a SHIELD. 

Where nature has been most bountiful of this faculty, its sensibility isso easily blunted by a variety of unavoidable circumstances, that thetongue is very seldom in the highest condition for appreciating delicateflavours, or accurately estimating the relative force of the variousmaterials the cook employs in the composition of an harmonious relish. Cooks express this refinement of combination by saying, a well-finished_ragoût_ “tastes of every thing, and tastes of nothing:” (this is“_kitchen gibberish_” for a sauce in which the component parts are wellproportioned. )

However delicately sensitive nature may have formed the organs of taste, it is only during those few happy moments that they are perfectly awake, and in perfect good humour, (alas! how very seldom they are, ) that themost accomplished and experienced cook has a chance of working with anydegree of certainty without the auxiliary tests of the balance and themeasure: by the help of these, when you are once right, it is your ownfault if you are ever otherwise. 

The sense of taste depends much on the health of the individual, and ishardly ever for a single hour in the same state: such is the extremelyintimate sympathy between the stomach and the tongue, that in proportionas the former is empty, the latter is acute and sensitive. This is thecause that “good appetite is the best sauce, ” and that the dish we findsavoury at _luncheon_, is insipid at _dinner_, and at _supper_ quitetasteless. 

To taste any thing in perfection, the tongue must be moistened, or thesubstance applied to it contain moisture; the nervous papillæ whichconstitute this sense are roused to still more lively sensibility bysalt, sugar, aromatics, &c. 

If the palate becomes dull by repeated tasting, one of the best ways ofrefreshing it, is to masticate an apple, or to wash your mouth well withmilk. 

The incessant exercise of tasting, which a cook is obliged to submit toduring the education of her tongue, frequently impairs the very facultyshe is trying to improve. “’Tis true ’tis pity and pity ’tis, ” (says a_grand gourmand_) “’tis true, her too anxious perseverance to penetratethe mysteries of palatics may diminish the _tact_, exhaust the power, and destroy the _index_, without which all her labour is in vain. ”

Therefore, a sagacious cook, instead of idly and wantonly wasting theexcitability of her palate, on the sensibility of which her reputationand fortune depends, when she has ascertained the relative strength ofthe flavour of the various ingredients she employs, will call in thebalance and the measure to do the ordinary business, and endeavour topreserve her organ of taste with the utmost care, that it may be afaithful oracle to refer to on grand occasions, and newcompositions. [53-*] Of these an ingenious cook may form as endless avariety, as a musician with his seven notes, or a painter with hiscolours: read chapters 7 and 8 of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

Receive as the highest testimonies of your employers’ regard whateverobservations they may make on your work: such admonitions are the most_unequivocal proofs_ of their desire to make you thoroughly understandtheir taste, and their wish to retain you in their service, or theywould not take the trouble to teach you. 

Enter into all their plans of economy, [53-+] and endeavour to make themost of every thing, as well for your own honour as your master’sprofit, and you will find that whatever care you take for his profitwill be for your own: take care that the meat which is to make itsappearance again in the parlour is handsomely cut with a sharp knife, and put on a clean dish: take care of the _gravy_ (see No. 326) which isleft, it will save many pounds of meat in making sauce for _hashes_, _poultry_, and many little dishes. 

MANY THINGS MAY BE REDRESSED in a different form from that in which theywere first served, and improve the appearance of the table withoutincreasing the expense of it. 

COLD FISH, soles, cod, whitings, smelts, &c. May be cut into bits, andput into escallop shells, with cold oyster, lobster, or shrimp sauce, and bread crumbled, and put into a Dutch oven, and browned likescalloped oysters. (No. 182. )

The best way TO WARM COLD MEAT is to sprinkle the joint over with alittle salt, and put it in a DUTCH OVEN, at some distance before agentle fire, that it may warm gradually; watch it carefully, and keepturning it till it is quite hot and brown: it will take from twentyminutes to three quarters of an hour, according to its thickness; serveit up with gravy: this is much better than hashing it, and by doing itnicely a cook will get great credit. POULTRY (No. 530*), FRIED FISH (seeNo. 145), &c. May be redressed in this way. 

Take care of the _liquor_ you have boiled poultry or meat in; in fiveminutes you may make it into EXCELLENT SOUP. See _obs. _ to Nos. 555 and229, No. 5, and the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

No good housewife has any pretensions to _rational economy_ who boilsanimal food without converting the broth into some sort of soup. 

However highly the uninitiated in the mystery of soup-making may elevatethe external appendage of his olfactory organ at the mention of “POTLIQUOR, ” if he tastes No. 5, or 218, 555, &c. He will be as delightedwith it as a Frenchman is with “_potage à la Camarani_, ” of which it issaid “a single spoonful will lap the palate in Elysium; and while onedrop of it remains on the tongue, each other sense is eclipsed by thevoluptuous thrilling of the lingual nerves!!”

BROTH OF FRAGMENTS. --When you dress a large dinner, you may make goodbroth, or portable soup (No. 252), at very small cost, by taking care ofall the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry, you aregoing to use: wash them well, and put them into a stewpan, with as muchcold water as will cover them; set your stewpan on a hot fire; when itboils, take off all the scum, and set it on again to simmer gently; putin two carrots, two turnips, a large onion, three blades of poundedmace, and a head of celery; some mushroom parings will be a greataddition. Let it continue to simmer gently four or five hours; strain itthrough a sieve into a clean basin. This will save a great deal ofexpense in buying gravy-meat. 

Have the DUST, &c. Removed regularly once in a fortnight, and have yourKITCHEN CHIMNEY swept once a month; many good dinners have been spoiled, and many houses burned down, by the soot falling: the best securityagainst this, is for the cook to have a long birch-broom, and everymorning brush down all the soot within reach of it. Give notice to youremployers when the contents of your COAL-CELLAR are diminished to achaldron. 

It will be to little purpose to procure good provisions, unless you haveproper utensils[55-*] to prepare them in: the most expert artist cannotperform his work in a perfect manner without proper instruments; youcannot have neat work without nice tools, nor can you dress victualswell without an apparatus appropriate to the work required. See 1st pageof chapter 7 of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

In those houses where the cook enjoys the confidence of her employer somuch as to be intrusted with the care of the store-room, which is notvery common, she will keep an exact account of every thing as it comesin, and insist upon the weight and price being fixed to every articleshe purchases, and occasionally will (and it may not be amiss tojocosely drop a hint to those who supply them that she does) _reweigh_them, for her own satisfaction, as well as that of her employer, andwill not trust the key of this room to any one; she will also keep anaccount of every thing she takes from it, and manage with as muchconsideration and frugality as if it was her own property she was using, endeavouring to disprove the adage, that “PLENTY makes _waste_, ” andremembering that “wilful waste makes woful want. ”

The honesty of a cook must be above all suspicion: she must obtain, and(in spite of the numberless temptations, &c. That daily offer to bendher from it) preserve a character of spotless integrity and usefulindustry, [55-+] remembering that it is the fair price of INDEPENDENCE, which all wish for, but none without it can hope for; only a fool or amadman will be so silly or so crazy as to expect to reap where he hasbeen too idle to sow. 

Very few modern-built town-houses have a proper place to preserveprovisions in. The best substitute is a HANGING SAFE, which you maycontrive to suspend in an airy situation; and when you order meat, poultry, or fish, tell the tradesman when you intend to dress it: hewill then have it in his power to serve you with provision that will dohim credit, which the finest meat, &c. In the world will never do, unless it has been kept a proper time to be ripe and tender. 

If you have a well-ventilated larder in a shady, dry situation, you maymake still surer, by ordering in your meat and poultry such a timebefore you want it as will render it tender, which the finest meatcannot be, unless hung a proper time (see 2d chapter of the Rudiments ofCookery), according to the season, and nature of the meat, &c. ; butalways, as “_les bons hommes de bouche de France_” say, till _it is_“_assez mortifiée_. ”

Permitting this process to proceed to a certain degree renders meat muchmore easy of solution in the stomach, and for those whose digestivefaculties are delicate, it is of the utmost importance that it beattended to with the greatest nicety, for the most consummate skill inthe culinary preparation of it will not compensate for the want ofattention to this. (Read _obs. _ to No. 68. ) Meat that is _thoroughlyroasted_, or _boiled_, eats much shorter and tenderer, and is inproportion more digestible, than that which is _under_-done. 

You will be enabled to manage much better if your employers will makeout a BILL OF FARE FOR THE WEEK on the Saturday before: for example, fora family of half a dozen--

 _Sunday_ Roast beef (No. 19), and my pudding (No. 554). 

 _Monday_ Fowl (Nos. 16. 58), what was left of my pudding fried, and warmed in the Dutch oven. 

 _Tuesday_ Calf’s head (No. 10), apple-pie. 

 _Wednesday_ Leg of mutton (No. 1), or (No. 23). 

 _Thursday_ Do. Broiled or hashed (No. 487), or (No. 484, ) pancakes. 

 _Friday_ Fish (No. 145), pudding (No. 554). 

 _Saturday_ Fish, or eggs and bacon (No. 545). 

It is an excellent plan to have certain things on certain days. Whenyour butcher or poulterer knows what you will want, he has a betterchance of doing his best for you; and never think of ordering BEEF FORROASTING except for Sunday. 

When the weather or season[56-*] is very unfavourable for keeping meat, &c. Give him the choice of sending that which is in the best order fordressing; _i. E. _ either ribs or sirloin of beef, or leg, loin, or neckof mutton, &c. 

Meat in which you can detect the slightest trace of putrescency, hasreached its highest degree of tenderness, and should be dressed withoutdelay; but before this period, which in some kinds of meat is offensive, the due degree of inteneration may be ascertained, by its yieldingreadily to the pressure of the finger, and by its opposing littleresistance to an attempt to bind the joint. 

Although we strongly recommend that animal food should be hung up in theopen air, till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness; yet, let us be clearly understood also to warn you, that if kept till itloses its natural sweetness, it is as detrimental to health, as it isdisagreeable to the smell and taste. 

IN VERY COLD WEATHER, bring your meat, poultry, &c. Into the kitchen, early in the morning, if you roast, boil, or stew it ever so gently andever so long; if it be _frozen_, it will continue tough and unchewable. 

Without very watchful attention to this, the most skilful cook in theworld will get no credit, be she ever so careful in the management ofher spit or her stewpan. 

The time meat should hang to be tender, depends on the heat and humidityof the air. If it is not kept long enough, it is hard and tough; if toolong, it loses its flavour. It should be hung where it will have athorough air, and be dried with a cloth, night and morning, to keep itfrom damp and mustiness. 

Before you dress it, wash it well; if it is roasting beef, _pare off theoutside_. 

If you fear meat, [57-*] &c. Will not keep till the time it is wanted, _par_-roast or _par_-boil it; it will then keep a couple of days longer, when it may be dressed in the usual way, only it will be done in ratherless time. 

“In Germany, the method of keeping flesh in summer is to steep it inRhenish wine with a little sea-salt; by which means it may be preserveda whole season. ”--BOERHAAVE’S Academical Lectures, translated by J. Nathan, 8vo. 1763, p. 241. 

The cook and the butcher as often lose their credit by meat beingdressed too fresh, as the fishmonger does by fish that has been kept toolong. 

Dr. Franklin in his philosophical experiments tells us, that if game orpoultry be killed by ELECTRICITY it will become tender in the twinklingof an eye, and if it be dressed immediately, will be delicately tender. 

During the _sultry_ SUMMER MONTHS, it is almost impossible to procuremeat that is not either tough, or tainted. The former is as improper asthe latter for the unbraced stomachs of relaxed valetudinarians, forwhom, at this season, poultry, stews, &c. , and vegetable soups, are themost suitable food, when the digestive organs are debilitated by theextreme heat, and profuse perspiration requires an increase of liquid torestore equilibrium in the constitution. 

I have taken much more pains than any of my predecessors, to teach theyoung cook how to perform, in the best manner, the common business ofher profession. Being well grounded in the RUDIMENTS of COOKERY, shewill be able to execute the orders that are given her, with ease toherself, and satisfaction to her employers, and send up a deliciousdinner, with half the usual expense and trouble. 

I have endeavoured to lessen the labour of those who wish to bethoroughly acquainted with their profession; and an attentive perusal ofthe following pages will save them much of the irksome drudgeryattending an apprenticeship at the stove: an ordeal so severe, that fewpass it without irreparable injury to their health;[58-*] and many losetheir lives before they learn their business. 

To encourage the best performance of the machinery of mastication, thecook must take care that her dinner is not only well cooked, but thateach dish be sent to table with its proper accompaniments, in theneatest and most elegant manner. 

Remember, to excite the good opinion of the _eye_ is the first steptowards awakening the _appetite_. 

Decoration is much more rationally employed in rendering a wholesome, nutritious dish inviting, than in the elaborate embellishments which arecrowded about trifles and custards. 

Endeavour to avoid _over_-dressing roasts and boils, &c. And_over_-seasoning soups and sauces with salt, pepper, &c. ; it is a faultwhich cannot be mended. 

If your roasts, &c. Are a little _under_-done, with the assistance ofthe stewpan, the gridiron, or the Dutch oven, you may soon rectify themistake made with the spit or the pot. 

If _over_-done, the best juices of the meat are evaporated; it willserve merely to distend the stomach, and if the sensation of hunger beremoved, it is at the price of an indigestion. 

The chief business of cookery is to render food easy of digestion, andto facilitate nutrition. This is most completely accomplished by plaincookery in perfection; i. E. Neither _over_ nor _under_-done. 

With all your care, you will not get much credit by cooking toperfection, if more than _one dish goes to table at a time_. 

To be eaten in perfection, the interval between meat being taken out ofthe stewpan and its being put into the mouth, must be as short aspossible; but ceremony, that most formidable enemy to good cheer, toooften decrees it otherwise, and the guests seldom get a bit of an“_entremets_” till it is half cold. (See No. 485. )

So much time is often lost in placing every thing in apple-pie order, that long before dinner is announced, all becomes lukewarm; and tocomplete the mortification of the _grand gourmand_, his meat is put on asheet of ice in the shape of a plate, which instantly converts the gravyinto jelly, and the fat into a something which puzzles his teeth and theroof of his mouth as much as if he had birdlime to masticate. A complete_meat-screen_ will answer the purpose of a _hot closet_, _plate-warmer_, &c. --See Index. 

It will save you infinite trouble and anxiety, if you can prevail onyour employers to use the “SAUCE-BOX, ” No. 462, hereinafter described inthe chapter of Sauces. With the help of this “MAGAZINE OF TASTE, ” everyone in company may flavour their soup and sauce, and adjust thevibrations of their palate, exactly to their own fancy; but if the cookgive a decidedly predominant and _piquante goût_ to a dish, to ticklethe tongues of two or three visiters, whose taste she knows, she maythereby make the dinner disgusting to all the other guests. 

Never undertake more work than you are quite certain you can do well. Ifyou are ordered to prepare a larger dinner than you think you can sendup with ease and neatness, or to dress any dish that you are notacquainted with, rather than run any risk in spoiling any thing (by onefault you may perhaps lose all your credit), request your employers tolet you have some help. They may acquit you for pleading guilty ofinability; but if you make an attempt, and fail, will vote it a capitaloffence. 

If your mistress professes to understand cookery, your best way will beto follow her directions. If you wish to please her, let her have thepraise of all that is right, and cheerfully bear the blame of any thingthat is wrong; only advise that all NEW DISHES may be first tried whenthe family dine alone. When there is company, never attempt to dress anything which you have not ascertained that you can do perfectly well. 

Do not trust any part of your work to others without carefullyoverlooking them: whatever faults they commit, you will be censured for. If you have forgotten any article which is indispensable for the day’sdinner, request your employers to send one of the other servants for it. The cook must never quit her post till her work is entirely finished. 

It requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have all things done asthey should be, and all done together, at that critical moment when thedinner-bell sounds “to the banquet. ”

 “A feast must be without a fault; And if ’t is not all right, ’t is naught. ”

But

 “Good nature will some failings overlook, Forgive mischance, not errors of the cook; As, if no salt is thrown about the dish, Or nice crisp’d parsley scatter’d on the fish, Shall we in passion from our dinner fly, And hopes of pardon to the cook deny, For things which Mrs. GLASSE herself might oversee, And all mankind commit as well as she?”

 Vide KING’S _Art of Cookery_. 

Such is the endless variety of culinary preparations, that it would beas vain and fruitless a search as that for the philosopher’s stone, toexpect to find a cook who is quite perfect in all the operations of thespit, the stewpan, and the rolling-pin: you will as soon find awatchmaker who can make, put together, and regulate every part of awatch. 

“The universe cannot produce a cook who knows how to do every branch ofcookery well, be his genius as great as possible. ”--Vide the _Cook’sCookery_, 8vo. Page 40. 

THE BEST RULE FOR MARKETING is to _pay_ READY MONEY for every thing, andto deal with the most respectable tradesmen in your neighbourhood. 

If you leave it to their integrity to supply you with a good article, atthe fair market price, you will be supplied with better provisions, andat as reasonable a rate as those bargain-hunters, who trot “around, around, around about” a market, till they are trapped to buy some_unchewable_ old poultry, _tough_ tup-mutton, _stringy_ cow beef, or_stale_ fish, at a very little less than the price of prime and properfood. With _savings_ like these they toddle home in triumph, cacklingall the way, like a goose that has got ankle-deep into good luck. 

All the skill of the most accomplished cook will avail nothing, unlessshe is furnished with PRIME PROVISIONS. The best way to procure these isto deal with shops of established character: you may appear to pay, perhaps, ten _per cent. _ more than you would, were you to deal withthose who pretend to sell cheap, but you would be much more than in thatproportion better served. 

Every trade has its tricks and deceptions: those who follow them candeceive you if they please; and they are too apt to do so, if youprovoke the exercise of their over-reaching talent. [61-*]

Challenge them to a game at “_Catch who can_, ” by entirely relying onyour own judgment; and you will soon find that nothing but very longexperience can make you equal to the combat of marketing to the utmostadvantage. 

Before you go to market, look over your larder, and consider well whatthings are wanting, especially on a Saturday. No well-regulated familycan suffer a disorderly caterer to be jumping in and out to thechandler’s shop on a Sunday morning. 

Give your directions to your assistants, and begin your business earlyin the morning, or it will be impossible to have the dinner ready at thetime it is ordered. 

To be half an hour after the time is such a frequent fault, that thereis the more merit in being ready at the appointed hour. This is adifficult task, and in the best-regulated family you can only be sure ofyour time by proper arrangements. 

With all our love of punctuality, we must not forget that the firstconsideration must still be, that the dinner “be well done when ’t isdone. ”

If any accident occurs to any part of the dinner, or if you are likelyto be prevented sending the soup, &c. To the table at the moment it isexpected, send up a message to your employers, stating the circumstance, and bespeak their patience for as many minutes as you think it will taketo be ready. This is better than either keeping the company waitingwithout an apology, or dishing your dinner before it is done enough, orsending any thing to table which is disgusting to the stomachs of theguests at the first appearance of it. 

Those who desire regularity in the service of their table, should have aDIAL, of about twelve inches diameter, placed over the kitchenfireplace, carefully regulated to keep time exactly with the clock inthe hall or dining-parlour; with a frame on one side, containing A TASTETABLE of the peculiarities of the master’s palate, and the particularrules and orders of his kitchen; and, on the other side, of the REWARDSgiven to those who attend to them, and for long and faithful service. 

In small families, where a dinner is seldom given, a great deal ofpreparation is required, and the preceding day must be devoted to thebusiness of the kitchen. 

On these occasions a _char-woman_ is often employed to do the dirtywork. Ignorant persons often hinder you more than they help you. Weadvise a cook to be hired to assist to dress the dinner: this would bevery little more expense, and the work got through with much morecomfort in the kitchen and credit to the parlour. 

When you have a very large entertainment to prepare, get your soups andsauces, forcemeats, &c. Ready the day before, and read the 7th chapterof our _Rudiments of Cookery_. Many made dishes may also be prepared theday before they are to go to table; but do not dress them _quite enough_the first day, that they may not be _over_-done by warming up again. 

Prepare every thing you can the day before the dinner, and order everything else to be sent in early in the morning; if the tradesmen forgetit, it will allow you time to send for it. 

The pastry, jellies, &c. You may prepare while the broths are doing:then truss your game and poultry, and shape your collops, cutlets, &c. , and trim them neatly; cut away all flaps and gristles, &c. Nothingshould appear on table but what has indisputable pretensions to beeaten!

Put your made dishes in plates, and arrange them upon the dresser inregular order. Next, see that your roasts and boils are all nicelytrimmed, trussed, &c. And quite ready for the spit or the pot. 

Have your vegetables neatly cut, pared, picked, and clean washed in thecolander: provide a tin dish, with partitions, to hold your fine herbs:onions and shallots, parsley, thyme, tarragon, chervil, and burnet, minced _very fine_; and lemon-peel grated, or cut thin, and chopped verysmall: pepper and salt ready mixed, and your spice-box and salt-cellaralways ready for action: that every thing you may want may be at handfor your stove-work, and not be scampering about the kitchen in awhirlpool of confusion, hunting after these trifles while the dinner iswaiting. 

In one drawer under your SPICE-BOX keep ready ground, in well-stoppedbottles, the several spices separate; and also that mixture of themwhich is called “_ragoût powder_” (No. 457 or No. 460): in another, keepyour dried and powdered sweet, savoury, and soup herbs, &c. And a set ofweights and scales: you may have a third drawer, containing flavouringessences, &c. An invaluable auxiliary in finishing soups and sauces. (See the account of the “MAGAZINE OF TASTE, ” or “SAUCE-BOX, ” No. 462. )

Have also ready some THICKENING, made of the best white flour sifted, mixed with soft water with a wooden spoon till it is the consistence ofthick batter, a bottle of plain BROWNING (No. 322), some strainedlemon-juice, and some good glaze, or PORTABLE soup (No. 252). 

“Nothing can be done in perfection which must be done in a hurry:”[63-*]therefore, if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your masterand mistress, and do credit to yourself, be punctual; take care that assoon as the _clock strikes_, the _dinner-bell rings_: this shows theestablishment to be orderly, is extremely gratifying to the master andhis guests, and is most praiseworthy in the attendants. 

But remember, you cannot obtain this desirable reputation without goodmanagement in every respect. If you wish to ensure ease and independencein the latter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to pay theprice for which only they can be obtained, and earn them by a diligentand faithful[64-*] performance of the duties of your station in youryoung days, which, if you steadily persevere in, you may depend uponultimately receiving the reward your services deserve. 

All duties are reciprocal: and if you hope to receive favour, endeavourto deserve it by showing yourself fond of obliging, and grateful whenobliged; such behaviour will win regard, and maintain it: enforce whatis right, and excuse what is wrong. 

Quiet, steady perseverance is the only spring which you can safelydepend upon for infallibly promoting your progress on the road toindependence. 

If your employers do not immediately appear to be sensible of yourendeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interest, benot easily discouraged. _Persevere_, and do all in your power to MAKEYOURSELF USEFUL. 

Endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in the family; letit be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than is requiredof you, than less than your duty: they merit little who perform merelywhat would be exacted. If you are desired to help in any business whichmay not strictly belong to your department, undertake it cheerfully, patiently, and conscientiously. 

The foregoing advice has been written with an honest desire to augmentthe comfort of those in the kitchen, who will soon find that theever-cheering reflection of having done their duty to the utmost oftheir ability, is in itself, with a Christian spirit, a never-failingsource of comfort in all circumstances and situations, and that

 “VIRTUE IS ITS OWN REWARD. ”

FOOTNOTES:

[46-*] A chapter of advice to cooks will, we hope, be found as useful asit is original: all we have on this subject in the works of ourpredecessors, is the following; “I shall strongly recommend to all cooksof either sex, to keep their stomachs free from strong liquors till_after_ dinner, and their noses from snuff. ”--_Vide_ CLERMONT’S_Professed Cook_, p. 30, 8vo. London, 1776. 

[50-*] Meat that is not to be cut till it is _cold_, must be thoroughlydone, especially in summer. 

[51-*] See chapter XV. “_Chaque Pays_, chaque _Coutume_. ”--_CoursGastronomique_, 8vo. 1809, p. 162. 

[52-*] Cook to Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart. , late president of the RoyalSociety. 

[53-*] “The diversities of taste are so many and so considerable, thatit seemeth strange to see the matter treated of both by philosophers andphysicians with so much scantiness and defect: for the subject is notbarren, but yieldeth much and pleasant variety, and doth also appear tobe of great importance. ”--From Dr. GREW’S _Anat. Of Plants_, fol. 1682, p. 286. The Dr. Enumerates sixteen simple tastes: however, it isdifficult to define more than six. --1st. _Bitter_ as wormwood. 2d. _Sweet_ as sugar. 3d. _Sour_ as vinegar. 4th. _Salt_ as brine. 5th. _Cold_ as ice. 6th. _Hot_ as brandy. “_Compound tastes_, innumerable, may be formed by the combination of these simple tastes--as words are ofletters. ”--See also _Phil. Trans. _ vol. Xv. P. 1025. 

[53-+] “I am persuaded that no servant ever saved her master sixpence, but she found it in the end in her pocket. ”--TRUSLER’S _DomesticManagement_, p. 11. 

[55-*] “A surgeon may as well attempt to make an incision with a pair ofshears, or open a vein with an oyster-knife, as a cook pretend to dressa dinner without proper tools. ”--VERRALL’S _Cookery_, 8vo. 1759, p. 6. 

[55-+] Many COOKS miss excellent opportunities of making themselvesindependent, by their idleness, in refusing any place, howeverprofitable, &c. If there is not a _kitchen maid_ kept to wait upon them. 

There are many invalids who require a good cook, and as (after readingthis book they will understand how much) their comfort and effectiveexistence depends on their food being properly prepared, will willinglypay handsome wages, (who would not rather pay the cook than the doctor?)but have so little work in the kitchen that one person may do it allwith the utmost ease, without injury to her health; which is not thecase in a large family, where the poor cook is roasting and stewing allday, and is often deprived of her rest at night. No artists have greaterneed to “_make hay while the sun shines_, ” and timely provide for theinfirmities of age. Who will hire a superannuated servant? If she hassaved nothing to support herself, she must crawl to the workhouse. 

It is melancholy to find, that, according to the authority of a certaingreat French author, “cooks, half stewed and half roasted, when unableto work any longer, generally retire to some unknown corner, and die inforlornness and want. ”--BLACKWOOD’S _Edin. Mag. _ vol. Vii. P. 668. 

[56-*] “The season of the year has considerable influence on the qualityof butcher-meat; depending upon the more or less plentiful supply offood, upon the periodical change which takes place in the body of theanimal, and upon temperature. The flesh of most full-grown quadrupeds isin highest season during the first months of winter, after havingenjoyed the advantage of the abundance of fresh summer food. Its flavourthen begins to be injured by the turnips, &c. Given as winter food; andin spring, it gets lean from deficiency of food. Although beef andmutton are never absolutely out of season, or not fit for the table, they are best in November, December, and January. Pork is absolutelybad, except during the winter. ”--_Supplement to the Edin. Ency. Brit. _p. 328. 

[57-*] “LARDERS, PANTRIES, and SAFES must be sheltered from the sun, andotherwise removed from the heat; be dry, and, if possible, have acurrent of dry, cool air continually passing through them. 

“The freezing temperature, i. E. _32 degrees of Fahrenheit_, is aperfect preservative from putrefaction: warm, moist, muggy weather isthe worst for keeping meat. The south wind is especially unfavourable, and lightning is quickly destructive; but the greatest enemy you have toencounter is the flesh-fly, which becomes troublesome about the month ofMay, and continues so till towards Michaelmas. ”--For further _Obs. _ onthis subject see “_The Experienced Butcher_, ” page 160. 

[58-*] “Buy it with health, strength, and resolution, And pay for it, a robust constitution. ”

 _Preface to the Cook’s Cookery_, 1758. 

See the preface to “_The Cook’s Cookery_, ” p. 9. This work, which isvery scarce, was, we believe, written to develope the mistakes in whathe calls “The Thousand Errors, ” i. E. “_The Lady’s Cookery_, ” i. E. Mrs. Glasse’s, i. E. Sir John Hill’s. 

[61-*] “He who will not be cheated _a little_, must be content to beabused _a great deal_: the first lesson in the art of _comfortableeconomy_, is to learn to submit cheerfully to be imposed upon in dueproportion to your situation and circumstances: if you do not, you willcontinually be in hot water. 

“If you think a tradesman has imposed upon you, never use a second word, if the first will not do, nor drop the least hint of an imposition. Theonly method to induce him to make an abatement is the hope of futurefavours. Pay the demand, and deal with the gentleman no more: but do notlet him see that you are displeased, or, as soon as you are out ofsight, your reputation will suffer as much as your pockethas. ”--TRUSLER’S _Way to be Rich_, 8vo. 1776, p. 85. 

[63-*] Says TOM THRIFTY, “_except catching of fleas_. ” See T. T. ’s_Essay on Early Rising_. 

[64-*] N. B. “If you will take half the pains to deserve the regard ofyour master and mistress by being _a good and faithful servant_, youtake to be considered _a good fellow-servant_, so many of you would not, in the decline of life, be left destitute of those comforts which agerequires, nor have occasion to quote the saying that ‘Service is noinheritance, ’ unless your own misconduct makes it so. 

“The idea of being called a tell-tale has occasioned many good servantsto shut their eyes against the frauds of fellow-servants. 

“In the eye of the law, persons standing by and seeing a felonycommitted, which they could have prevented, are held equally guilty withthose committing it. ”--Dr. TRUSLER’S _Domestic Management_, p. 12, and_Instructions to Servants_. 

TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

To reduce our culinary operations to as exact a certainty as the natureof the processes would admit of, we have, wherever it was needful, giventhe quantities of each article. 

The weights are _avoirdupois_. 

The measure, the graduated glass of the apothecaries. This appeared themost accurate and convenient; _the pint_ being divided into sixteenounces, _the ounce_ into eight drachms. A middling-sized _tea-spoon_will contain about a drachm; four such tea-spoons are equal to amiddling-sized _table-spoon_, or half an ounce; four table-spoons to acommon-sized _wine-glass_. 

The specific gravities of the various substances being so extremelydifferent, we cannot offer any auxiliary standards[65-*] for theweights, which we earnestly recommend the cook to employ, if she wishesto gain credit for accuracy and uniformity in her business: these shewill find it necessary to have as small as the quarter of a drachmavoirdupois, which is equal to nearly seven grains troy. 

Glass measures (divided into tea and table-spoons), containing from halfan ounce to half a pint, may be procured; also, the double-headed pepperand spice boxes, with caps over the gratings. The superiority of these, by preserving the contents from the action of the air, must besufficiently obvious to every one: the fine aromatic flavour of pepperis soon lost, from the bottles it is usually kept in not being wellstopped. Peppers are seldom ground or pounded sufficiently fine. (SeeN. B. To 369. )

N. B. The trough nutmeg-graters are by far the best we have seen, especially for those who wish to grate fine, and fast. 

FOOTNOTES:

[65-*] A large table-spoonful of flour weighs about half an ounce. 

RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 

CHAPTER I. 

BOILING. [66-*]

This most simple of culinary processes is not often performed inperfection. It does not require quite so much nicety and attendance asroasting; to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling (the slowerthe better) all the while, to know how long is required for doing thejoint, &c. , and to take it up at the critical moment when it is doneenough, comprehends almost the whole art and mystery. This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, of which few persons arecapable. 

The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all thewhile she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time; and make up asufficient fire (a frugal cook will manage with much less fire forboiling than she uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time, without much mending or stirring. 

When the pot is coming to a boil there will always, from the cleanestmeat and clearest water, rise a _scum_ to the top of it, proceedingpartly from the water; this must be carefully taken off as soon as itrises. 

On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. 

When you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw upthe rest of the scum. 

The oftener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat. 

If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat, [67-*] which, instead of looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse andfilthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the butcher andpoulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook in not skimming herpot. 

Many put in _milk_, to make what they boil look white; but this doesmore harm than good: others wrap it up in a cloth; but these areneedless precautions: if the scum be attentively removed, meat will havea much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when muffledup. This may give rather more trouble, but those who wish to excel intheir art must only consider how the processes of it can be mostperfectly performed: a cook, who has a proper pride and pleasure in herbusiness, will make this her maxim on all occasions. 

It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness, orbefore thicker parts are done enough the thinner will be done too much. 

Put your meat into _cold_[67-+] water, in the proportion of about aquart of water to a pound of meat: it should be covered with waterduring the whole of the process of boiling, but not drowned in it; theless water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more savoury willbe the meat, and the better will be the broth. 

The water should be heated gradually, according to the thickness, &c. Ofthe article boiled. For instance, a leg of mutton of 10 pounds weight(No. 1, ) should be placed over a moderate fire, which will graduallymake the water hot, without causing it to boil for about forty minutes;if the water boils much sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink upas if it was scorched: by keeping the water a certain time heatingwithout boiling, the fibres of the meat are dilated, and it yields aquantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as it rises. 

“104. If a vessel containing water be placed over a steady fire, thewater will grow continually hotter till it reaches the limit of boiling, after which the regular accessions of heat are wholly spent inconverting it into steam. 

“Water remains at the same pitch of temperature, however fiercely itboils. The only difference is, that with a strong fire it sooner comesto boil, and more quickly boils away, and is converted intosteam. ”--BUCHANAN _on the Economy of Fuel_, 1810. 

The editor placed a thermometer in water in that state which cooks callgentle simmering; the heat was 212°, i. E. The same degree as thestrongest boiling. 

Two mutton chops were covered with cold water, and one boiled a gallop, and the other simmered very gently for three quarters of an hour: thechop which was slowly simmered was decidedly superior to that which wasboiled; it was much tenderer, more juicy, and much higher flavoured. Theliquor which boiled fast was in like proportion more savoury, and whencold had much more fat on its surface. This explains why quick boilingrenders meat hard, &c. , because its juices are extracted in a greaterdegree. 

Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil. 

The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we think rather toolittle: the slower it boils, the tenderer, the plumper, and whiter itwill be. 

For those who choose their food thoroughly cooked (which all will whohave any regard for their stomachs), twenty minutes to a pound forfresh, and rather more for salted meat, will not be found too much forgentle simmering by the side of the fire, allowing more or less time, according to the thickness of the joint, and the coldness of theweather: to know the state of which, let a thermometer be placed in thepantry; and when it falls below 40°, tell your cook to give rather moretime in both roasting and boiling, always remembering, the slower itboils the better. 

Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art; and cooks seemto suppose they must be right, if they put meat into a pot, and set itover the fire for a certain time, making no allowance whether it simmerswithout a bubble or boils a gallop. 

Fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than that which hasbeen kept till it is what the butchers call _ripe_, and longer in _cold_than in _warm_ weather: if it be _frozen_, it must be thawed beforeboiling as before roasting; if it be fresh-killed, it will be tough andhard, if you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently. In cold weather, the night before the day you dress it, bring it into a place of whichthe temperature is not less than 45 degrees of Fahrenheit’s thermometer. 

The size of the boiling-pots should be adapted to what they are tocontain: the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon the fire, and a larger quantity of water requires a proportionate increase of fireto boil it. 

 A little pot Is soon hot. 

In small families we recommend block tin saucepans, &c. As lightest andsafest. If proper care is taken of them, and they are well dried afterthey are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest; the purchase of a newtin saucepan being little more than the expense of tinning a copper one. 

Let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to preventunnecessary evaporation of the water, but to prevent the escape of thenutritive matter, which must then remain either in the meat or in thebroth; and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself under the edgeof the lid, and so giving the meat a bad taste. See observations onSaucepans, in chapter 7. 

If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is done enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavour. 

Beef and mutton a little _under_-done (especially very large joints, which will make the better hash or broil, ) is not a great fault; by somepeople it is preferred: but lamb, pork, and veal are uneatable if notthoroughly boiled; but do not _over_-do them. 

A trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling-pot, raisingthe contents about an inch and a half from the bottom, will prevent thatside of the meat which comes next the bottom from being done too much, and the lower part of the meat will be as delicately done as the otherpart; and this will enable you to take out the contents of the pot, without sticking a fork, &c. Into it. If you have not a trivet, use fourskewers, or a soup-plate laid the wrong side upwards. 

Take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat in; in fiveminutes you may make it into excellent soup. (See obs. To No. 555 andNo. 229. )

The good housewife never boils a joint without converting the broth intosome sort of soup (read No. 5, and chapter 7). If the liquor be toosalt, only use half the quantity, and the rest water. Wash salted meatwell with cold water before you put it into the boiler. 

_An estimation of the_ LOSS OF WEIGHT _which takes place in cooking animal food. _--_From_ Mr. TILLOCH’S _Philosophical Magazine. _

“It is well known, that in whatever way the flesh of animals is preparedfor food, a considerable diminution takes place in its weight. We do notrecollect, however, to have any where seen a statement of the loss whichmeat sustains in the various culinary processes, although it is prettyobvious that a series of experiments on the subject would not be withouttheir use in domestic economy. 

“We shall here give the result of a series of experiments which wereactually made on this subject in a public establishment; premising that, as they were not undertaken from mere curiosity, but, on the contrary, to serve a purpose of practical utility, absolute accuracy was notattended to. Considering, however, the large quantities of provisionswhich were actually examined, it is presumed that the results may besafely depended upon for any practical purpose. It would, no doubt, havebeen desirable to have known not only the whole diminution of weight, but also the parts which were separated from the meat in the form ofaqueous vapour, jelly, fat, &c. ; but the determination of these did notfall within the scope of the inquiry. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 28 pieces of beef, weighing 280 0 Lost in boiling 73 14

“Hence, the weight lost by beef in boiling was in this case about26-1/2lbs. In 100lbs. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 19 pieces of beef, weighing 190 0 Lost in roasting 61 2

“The weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be 32 per cent. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 9 pieces of beef, weighing 90 0 Lost in baking 27 0

“Weight lost by beef in baking 30 per cent. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 27 legs of mutton, weighing 260 0 Lost in boiling, and by having the shank-bone taken off 62 4

“The shank-bones were estimated at 4 ounces each; therefore the loss byboiling was 55lbs. 8oz. 

“The loss of weight in legs of mutton in boiling is 21-1/3 per cent. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 35 shoulders of mutton, weighing 350 0 Lost in roasting 109 10

“The loss of weight in shoulders of mutton by roasting, is about 31-1/3per cent. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 16 loins of mutton, weighing 141 0 Lost in roasting 49 14

“Hence, loins of mutton lose by roasting about 35-1/2 per cent. 

 _lbs. _ _oz. _ 10 necks of mutton, weighing 100 0 Lost in roasting 32 6

“The loss in necks of mutton by roasting is about 32-1/3 per cent. 

“We shall only draw two practical inferences from the foregoingstatement. --1st, In respect of economy, it is more profitable to boilmeat than to roast it. 2dly, Whether we roast or boil meat, it loses bybeing cooked from one-fifth to one-third of its whole weight. ”

The loss of roasting arises from the melting out of the fat, andevaporating the water; but the nutritious matters remain condensed inthe cooked solid. 

In boiling, the loss arises partly from the fat melted out, but chieflyfrom _gelatine_ and _osmazome_ being extracted and dissolved by thewater in which the meat is boiled; there is, therefore, a real loss ofnourishment, unless the broth be used; when this mode of cooking becomesthe most economical. [71-*]

_The sauces usually sent to table with boiled meat, &c. _

These are to be sent up in boats, and never poured over the meat, &c. 

 Gravy for boiled meat (No. 327. ) Parsley and butter (No. 261. ) Chervil (No. 264. ) Caper (No. 274. ) Oyster (No. 278. ) Liver and parsley (No. 287. ) Celery (No. 289. ) Onion (No. 296, &c. ) Shallot (No. 295. ) Wow wow (No. 328. ) Curry (No. 348. )

BAKING. 

The following observations were written expressly for this work by Mr. Turner, English and French bread and biscuit baker. 

“Baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient ways of dressing adinner in small families; and, I may say, that the oven is often theonly kitchen a poor man has, if he wishes to enjoy a joint of meat athome with his family. 

“I don’t mean to deny the superior excellence of roasting to baking; butsome joints, when baked, so nearly approach to the same when roasted, that I have known them to be carried to the table, and eaten as suchwith great satisfaction. 

“Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, and many otherjoints, will bake to great advantage, if the meat be good; I meanwell-fed, rather inclined to be fat: if the meat be poor, no baker cangive satisfaction. 

“When baking a poor joint of meat, before it has been half baked I haveseen it start from the bone, and shrivel up scarcely to be believed. 

“Besides those joints above mentioned, I shall enumerate a few bakeddishes which I can particularly recommend. 

“A pig, when sent to the baker prepared for baking, should have its earsand tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on, and a bit ofbutter tied up in a piece of linen to baste the back with, otherwise itwill be apt to blister: with a proper share of attention from the baker, I consider this way equal to a roasted one. 

“A goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking care to have it on astand, and when half done to turn the other side upwards. A duck thesame. 

“A buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine. After it hasbeen in salt about a week, to be well washed, and put into a brownearthen pan with a pint of water; cover the pan tight with two or threethicknesses of cap or foolscap paper: never cover any thing that is tobe baked with brown paper, the pitch and tar that is in brown paper willgive the meat a smoky, bad taste: give it four or five hours in amoderately heated oven. 

“A ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out and wiped, acrust made sufficient to cover it all over, and baked in a moderatelyheated oven, cuts fuller of gravy, and of a finer flavour, than a boiledone. I have been in the habit of baking small cod-fish, haddock, andmackerel, with a dust of flour, and some bits of butter put on them;eels, when large and stuffed; herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, withvinegar and a little spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, preparedthe same as for roasting, with a few pieces of butter, and a little dropof milk put into the dish, and basted several times, will be foundnearly equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it intoa jar or pan, and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for aboutthree hours. In the same manner, I have been in the habit of baking legsand shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. Prepared with a seasoning of onions, turnips, &c. : they will take about four hours: let them stand till cold, to skim off the fat; then warm it up all together, or part, as you maywant it. 

“All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families. 

“The time each of the above articles should take depends much upon thestate of the oven, and I do consider the baker a sufficient judge; ifthey are sent to him in time, he must be very neglectful if they are notready at the time they are ordered. ”

For receipts for making bread, French rolls, muffins, crumpets, SallyLunn, &c. , see the Appendix. 

FOOTNOTES:

[66-*] “The process by which food is most commonly prepared for thetable, BOILING, is so familiar to every one, and its effects are souniform, and apparently so simple, that few, I believe, have taken thetrouble to inquire _how_ or _in what manner_ those effects are produced;and whether any, and what improvements in that branch of cookery arepossible. So little has this matter been an object of inquiry, that few, very few indeed, I believe, among the _millions of persons_ who for somany ages have been _daily_ employed in this process, have ever giventhemselves the trouble to bestow one serious thought on the subject. 

“_Boiling_ cannot be carried on without a very great expense of fuel;but any boiling-hot liquid (by using proper means for confining theheat) may be kept _boiling-hot_ for any length of time almost withoutany expense of fuel at all. 

“_The waste of fuel_ in culinary processes, which arises from makingliquids boil _unnecessarily_, or when nothing more would be necessarythan to keep them _boiling-hot_, is enormous; I have not a doubt butthat much more than half the fuel used in all the kitchens, public andprivate, in the whole world, is wasted precisely in this manner. 

“But the evil does not stop here. This unscientific and slovenly mannerof cooking renders the process much more laborious and troublesome thanotherwise it would be; and, (what by many will be considered of moreimportance than either the waste of fuel or the increase of labour tothe cook) the food is rendered less savoury, and very probably lessnourishing and less wholesome. 

“It is natural to suppose that many of the finer and more volatileparts of food (those which are best calculated to act on the organsof taste), must be carried off with the steam when the boiling isviolent. ”--_Count_ RUMFORD’S 10th Essay, pp. 3, 6. 

[67-*] If, unfortunately, this should happen, the cook must carefullytake it off when she dishes up, either with a clean sponge or apaste-brush. 

[67-+] Cooks, however, as well as doctors, disagree; for some say, that“all sorts of fresh meat should be put in when the water boils. ” Iprefer the above method for the reason given; gentle stewing rendersmeat, &c. Tender, and still leaves it sapid and nutritive. 

[71-*] The diminution of weight by boiling and roasting is not all lost, the FAT SKIMMINGS and the DRIPPINGS, nicely clarified, will well supplythe place of lard and for frying. See No. 83, and the receipt for CHEAPSOUP (No. 229). 

CHAPTER II. 

ROASTING. 

In all studies, it is the best practice to begin with the plainest andeasiest parts; and so on, by degrees, to such as are more difficult: we, therefore, treated of plain boiling, and we now proceed to roasting: weshall then gradually unravel to our culinary students the art (and_mystery_, until developed in this work) of making, with the leasttrouble and expense, the most highly finished soups, sauces, andmade-dishes. 

Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief cardinalvirtue of the kitchen; the first preparation for roasting is to takecare that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and water; nothingelse. When it has been well scoured with this, dry it with a cleancloth. If spits are wiped clean as soon as the meat is drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very little cleaning will be required. Theless the spit is passed through the meat the better;[74-*] and, beforeyou spit it, joint it properly, especially necks and loins, that thecarver may separate them easily and neatly, and take especial care it beevenly balanced on the spit, that its motion may be regular, and thefire operate equally on each part of it; therefore, be provided withbalancing-skewers and cookholds, and see it is properly jointed. 

Roasting should be done by the radiant heat of a clear, glowing fire, otherwise it is in fact _baked_: the machines the economicalgrate-makers call ROASTERS, are, in plain English, ovens. 

Count Rumford was certainly an exact economist of fuel, when hecontrived these things; and those philosophers who try all questions“according to Cocker” may vote for baked victuals; but the rationalepicure, who has been accustomed to enjoy beef well roasted, will soonbe convinced that the poet who wrote our national ballad at the end ofthis chapter, was not inspired by Sir Benjamin Thompson’s cookery. 

All your attention in roasting will be thrown away, if you do not takecare that your meat, especially beef, has been kept long enough to betender. See “ADVICE TO COOKS, ” and obs. To No. 68. 

Make up the fire in time; let it be proportioned to the dinner to bedressed, and about three or four inches longer at each end than thething to be roasted, or the ends of the meat cannot be done nice andbrown. 

A cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the business shehas to do, as a chemist: the degree of heat most desirable for dressingthe different sorts of food ought to be attended to with the utmostprecision. 

The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin (No. 19), will parch up a lighter joint. 

From half an hour to an hour before you begin to roast, prepare the fireby putting a few coals on, which will be sufficiently lighted by thetime you wish to make use of your fire; between the bars, and on thetop, put small or large coals, according to the bulk of the joint, andthe time the fire is required to be strong; after which, throw thecinders (wetted) at the back. 

Never put meat down to a burned-up fire, if you can possibly avoid it;but should the fire become fierce, place the spit at a considerabledistance, and allow a little more time. 

Preserve the fat, [75-*] by covering it with paper, for this purposecalled “kitchen-paper, ” and tie it on with fine twine; pins and skewerscan by no means be allowed; they are so many taps to let out the gravy:besides, the paper often starts from them and catches fire, to the greatinjury of the meat. 

If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should be littleand brisk: when you have a large joint to roast, make up a sound, strongfire, equally good in every part of the grate, or your meat cannot beequally roasted, nor have that uniform colour which constitutes thebeauty of good roasting. 

Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down; examine itfrom time to time while the spit is going round; keep it clear at thebottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in the front, which willspoil the look and taste of the meat, and hinder it from roastingevenly. 

When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the other, placethe spit slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire. 

Do not put meat too near the fire at first; the larger the joint, thefarther it must be kept from the fire: if once it gets scorched, theoutside will become hard, and acquire a disagreeable, empyreumatictaste; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into it, the meatwill appear done before it is little more than half-done, besides losingthe pale brown colour, which it is the beauty of roasted meat to have. 

From 14 to 10 inches is the usual distance at which meat is put from thegrate, when first put down. It is extremely difficult to offer any thinglike an accurate general rule for this, it depends so much upon the sizeof the fire, and of that of the thing to be roasted. 

Till some culinary philosopher shall invent a thermometer to ascertainthe heat of the fire, and a graduated spit-rack to regulate the distancefrom it, the process of roasting is attended by so many ever-varyingcircumstances, that it must remain among those which can only beperformed well, by frequent practice and attentive observation. 

If you wish your jack to go well, keep it as clean as possible, oil it, and then wipe it: if the oil is not wiped off again it will gather dust;to prevent this, as soon as you have done roasting, cover it up. Neverleave the winders on while the jack is going round, unless you do it, asSwift says, “that it may fly off, and knock those troublesome servantson the head who will be crowding round your kitchen fire. ”

Be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance from thefire as just to catch the drippings: if it is too near, the ashes willfall into it, and spoil the drippings[76-*] (which we shall hereaftershow will occasionally be found an excellent substitute for butter orlard). To clarify drippings, see (No. 83, ) and pease and dripping soup(No. 229), savoury and salubrious, for only a penny per quart. If it istoo far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose yourdrippings, but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by the fœtidsmoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live cinders. 

A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes. It should notbe less than 28 inches long and 20 inches wide, and have a covered wellon the side from the fire, to collect the drippings; this will preservethem in the most delicate state: in a pan of the above size you may setfried fish, and various dishes, to keep hot. 

This is one of Painter’s and Hawke’s contrivances, near Norfolk-street, Strand. 

The time meat will take roasting will vary according to the time it hasbeen kept, and the temperature of the weather; the same weight[77-*]will be twenty minutes or half an hour longer in cold weather, [77-+]than it will be in warm; and if fresh killed, than if it has been kepttill it is tender. 

A good meat-screen is a great saver of fuel. It should be on wheels, have a flat top, and not be less than about three feet and a half wide, and with shelves in it, about one foot deep; it will then answer all thepurposes of a large Dutch oven, plate-warmer, hot hearth, &c. Some aremade with a door behind: this is convenient, but the great heat they areexposed to soon shrinks the materials, and the currents of air throughthe cracks cannot be prevented, so they are better without the door. Wehave seen one, which had on the top of it a very convenient _hotcloset_, which is a great acquisition in kitchens, where the dinnerwaits after it is dressed. 

Every body knows the advantage of _slow boiling_. _Slow roasting_ isequally important. 

It is difficult to give any specific rule for time; but if your fire ismade as before directed, your meat-screen sufficiently large to guardwhat you are dressing from currents of air, and the meat is not frosted, you cannot do better than follow the old general rule of allowing rathermore than a quarter of an hour to the pound; a little more or less, according to the temperature of the weather, in proportion as the pieceis thick or thin, the strength of the fire, the nearness of the meat toit, and the frequency with which you baste it; the more it is basted theless time it will take, as it keeps the meat soft and mellow on theoutside, and the fire acts with more force upon it. 

Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, but to themoment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing there are a dozen people tosip soup and eat fish first, you may allow them ten or fifteen minutesfor the former, and about as long for the latter, more or less, according to the temptations the “BON GOUT” of these preceding courseshas to attract their attention. 

When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan back, andstir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and bright for thebrowning; when the steam from the meat draws towards the fire, [78-*] itis a sign of its being done enough; but you will be the best judge ofthat, from the time it has been down, the strength of the fire you haveused, and the distance your spit has been from it. 

Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy (_see Receipt_, No. 326); and just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire tobrown it. If you wish to froth it, baste it, and dredge it with flourcarefully: you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light. The common fault seems to be using too much flour. The meat should havea fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of being covered witha paste. Those who are particular about the froth use butter instead ofdrippings; (see receipt to roast a turkey, No. 57)--

 “And send up what you roast with relish-giving froth, ”

says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appearance to the eye, thatthe palate may be prepossessed in its favour at first sight; therefore, have the whole course dished, before roasts are taken from the fire. 

A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and colour ofher roasts, as a court beauty is to her complexion at a birthday ball. If your meat does not brown so much, or so evenly as you wish, take twoounces of Glaze, _i. E. _ portable soup, put four table-spoonfuls ofwater, and let it warm and dissolve gradually by the side of the fire. This will be done in about a quarter of an hour; put it on the meatequally all over with a paste-brush the last thing before it goes totable. 

Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally consideredone of the most easy and simple processes of cookery, it requires moreunremitting attention to perform it perfectly well than it does to makemost made-dishes. 

That made-dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves to bereckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roasting and boilingit is not easy to repair a mistake once made; and all the discretion andattention of a steady, careful cook, must be unremittingly upon thealert. [78-+]

A diligent attention to time, the distance of the meat from, andjudicious management of, the fire, and frequent bastings, [79-*] are allthe general rules we can prescribe. We shall deliver particular rulesfor particular things, as the several articles occur, and do our utmostendeavours to instruct our reader as completely as words can describethe process, and teach

 “The management of common things so well, That what was thought the meanest shall excel: That cook’s to British palates most complete, Whose sav’ry skill gives zest to common meat: For what are soups, your ragoûts, and your sauce, Compared to the fare of OLD ENGLAND, And OLD ENGLISH ROAST BEEF!”

 * TAKE NOTICE, _that the_ TIME _given in the following receipts is calculated for those who like meat thoroughly roasted. _ (_See N. B. Preceding No. 19. _)

Some good housewives order very large joints to be rather under-done, asthey then make a better hash or broil. 

To make _gravy_ for roast, see No. 326. 

N. B. _Roasts_ must not be put on, till the _soup_ and _fish_ are takenoff the table. 

DREDGINGS. 

 1. Flour mixed with grated bread. 

 2. Sweet herbs dried and powdered, and mixed with grated bread. 

 3. Lemon-peel dried and pounded, or orange-peel, mixed with flour. 

 4. Sugar finely powdered, and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and flour or grated bread. 

 5. Fennel-seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and sugar, finely beaten, and mixed with grated bread or flour. 

 6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour, mixed with beaten nutmeg, ginger, pepper, sugar, and yelks of eggs. 

 7. Sugar, bread, and salt, mixed. 

BASTINGS. 

 1. Fresh butter. 

 2. Clarified suet. 

 3. Minced sweet herbs, butter, and claret, especially for mutton and lamb. 

 4. Water and salt. 

 5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed pig. 

 6. Yelks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges. 

FOOTNOTES:

[74-*] Small families have not always the convenience of roasting with aspit; a remark upon ROASTING BY A STRING is necessary. Let the cook, _before_ she puts her meat down to the fire, pass a strong skewerthrough _each end_ of the joint: by this means, when it is abouthalf-done, she can with ease turn the bottom upwards; the gravy willthen flow to the part which has been uppermost, and the whole joint bedeliciously gravyful. 

A BOTTLE JACK, as it is termed by the furnishing ironmongers, is avaluable instrument for roasting. 

A DUTCH OVEN is another very convenient utensil for roasting lightjoints, or warming them up. 

[75-*] If there is more FAT than you think will be eaten with the lean, trim it off; it will make an excellent PUDDING (No. 551, or 554): orclarify it (No. 83). 

[76-*] This the good housewife will take up occasionally, and passthrough a sieve into a stone pan; by leaving it all in the dripping-panuntil the meat is taken up, it not only becomes very strong, but whenthe meat is rich, and yields much of it, it is apt to be spilt inbasting. To CLARIFY DRIPPINGS, see No. 83. 

[77-*] _Insist upon the butcher fixing a_ TICKET _of the weight to eachjoint. _

[77-+] IF THE MEAT IS FROZEN, the usual practice is to put it into coldwater till it is thawed, then dry and roast it as usual; but werecommend you to bring it into the kitchen the night before, or early inthe morning of the day you want to roast it, and the warm air will thawit much better. 

[78-*] When the steam begins to arise, it is a proof that the wholejoint is thoroughly saturated with heat; any unnecessary evaporation isa waste of the best nourishment of the meat. 

[78-+] A celebrated French writer has given us the followingobservations on roasting:--

“The art of roasting victuals to the precise degree, is one of the mostdifficult in this world; and _you may find half a thousand good cookssooner than one perfect roaster_. (See ‘_Almanach des Gourmands_, ’ vol. I. P. 37. ) In the mansions of the opulent, they have, besides the masterkitchener, a roaster, (perfectly independent of the former, ) who isexclusively devoted to the spit. 

“All erudite _gourmands_ know that these two important functions cannotbe performed by one artist; it is quite impossible at the same time tosuperintend the operations of the spit and stewpan. ”--Further on, thesame author observes: “No certain rules can be given for roasting, theperfection of it depending on many circumstances which are continuallychanging; the age and size (especially the thickness) of the pieces, thequality of the coals, the temperature of the atmosphere, the currents ofair in the kitchen, the more or less attention of the roaster; and, lastly, the time of serving. Supposing the dinner ordered to be on tableat a certain time, if the fish and soup are much liked, and detainedlonger than the roaster has calculated; or, on the contrary, if they aredespatched sooner than is expected, the roasts will in one case be burntup, in the other not done enough--two misfortunes equally to bedeplored. The first, however, is without a remedy; _five minutes on thespit, more or less, decides the goodness of this mode of cookery_. It isalmost impossible to seize the precise instant when it ought to beeaten; which epicures in roasts express by saying, ‘It is _done to aturn_. ’ So that there is no exaggeration in saying, the perfect roasteris even more rare than the professed cook. 

“In small families, where the cook is also the roaster, it is almostimpossible the roasts should be well done: the spit claims exclusiveattention, and is an imperious mistress who demands the entire devotionof her slave. But how can this be, when the cook is obliged, at the sametime, to attend her fish and soup-kettles, and watch her stewpans andall their accompaniments?--it is morally and physically impossible: ifshe gives that delicate and constant attention to the roasts which isindispensably requisite, the rest of the dinner must often be spoiled;and most cooks would rather lose their character as a roaster, thanneglect the made-dishes and ‘_entremets_, ’ &c. , where they think theycan display their _culinary science_, --than sacrifice these to theroasts, the perfection of which will only prove their steady vigilanceand patience. ”

[79-*] Our ancestors were very particular in their BASTINGS andDREDGINGS, as will be seen by the following quotation from MAY’S“_Accomplished Cook_, ” London, 1665, p. 136. “The rarest ways ofdressing of all manner of roast meats, either flesh or fowl, by sea orland, and divers ways of braiding or dredging meats to prevent the gravyfrom too much evaporating. ”

CHAPTER III. 

FRYING. 

Frying is often a convenient mode of cookery; it may be performed by afire which will not do for roasting or boiling; and by the introductionof the pan between the meat and the fire, things get more equallydressed. 

The Dutch oven or bonnet is another very convenient utensil for smallthings, and a very useful substitute for the jack, the gridiron, orfrying-pan. 

A frying-pan should be about four inches deep, with a perfectly flat andthick bottom, 12 inches long and 9 broad, with perpendicular sides, andmust be half filled with fat: good frying is, in fact, boiling in fat. To make sure that the pan is quite clean, rub a little fat over it, andthen make it warm, and wipe it out with a clean cloth. 

Be very particular in frying, never to use any oil, butter, lard, ordrippings, but what is quite clean, fresh, and free from salt. Any thingdirty spoils the look; any thing bad-tasted or stale, spoils theflavour; and salt prevents its browning. 

Fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying; but the best oil isexpensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed with it. 

For general purposes, and especially for fish, clean fresh lard is notnear so expensive as oil or clarified butter, and does almost as well. Butter often burns before you are aware of it; and what you fry will geta dark and dirty appearance. 

Cooks in large kitchens, where there is a great deal of frying, commonlyuse mutton or beef suet clarified (see No. 84): if from the kidney, allthe better. 

Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as any thing; ifnot clean, it may be easily clarified (see No. 83). Whatever fat youuse, after you have done frying, let it remain in the pan for a fewminutes, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin; it will dothree or four times as well as it did at first, _i. E. _ if it has notburned: but, _Mem. _ the fat you have fried fish in must not be used forany other purpose. 

To know when the fat is of a proper heat, according to what you are tofry, is the great secret in frying. 

To fry fish, parsley, potatoes, or any thing that is watery, your firemust be very clear, and the fat quite hot; which you may be pretty sureof, when it has done hissing, and is still. We cannot insist toostrongly on this point: if the fat is not very hot, you cannot fry fisheither to a good colour, or firm and crisp. 

To be quite certain, throw a little bit of bread into the pan; if itfries crisp, the fat is ready; if it burns the bread, it is too hot. 

The fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, otherwise the fat is solong before it becomes ready, and demands such attendance to prevent theaccident of its catching fire, [81-*] that the patience of cooks isexhausted, and they frequently, from ignorance or impatience, throw inwhat they are going to fry before the fat is half hot enough. Whateveris so fried will be pale and sodden, and offend the palate and stomachnot less than the eye. 

Have a good light to fry by, that you may see when you have got theright colour: a lamp fixed on a stem, with a loaded foot, which has anarm that lengthens out, and slides up and down like a readingcandlestick, is a most useful appendage to kitchen fireplaces, which arevery seldom light enough for the nicer operations of cookery. 

After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what you havefried, especially from those things that are full dressed in breadcrumbs, [82-*] or biscuit powder, &c. , your cooking will do you nocredit. 

The dryness of fish depends much upon its having been fried in fat of adue degree of heat; it is then crisp and dry in a few minutes after itis taken out of the pan: when it is not, lay it on a soft cloth beforethe fire, turning it occasionally, till it is. This will sometimes take15 minutes: therefore, always fry fish as long as this before you wantthem, for fear you may find this necessary. 

To fry fish, see receipt to fry soles, (No. 145) which is the onlycircumstantial account of the process that has yet been printed. If thecook will study it with a little attention, she must soon become anaccomplished frier. 

Frying, though one of the most common of culinary operations, is onethat is least commonly performed perfectly well. 

FOOTNOTES:

[81-*] If this unfortunately happens, be not alarmed, but immediatelywet a basket of ashes and throw them down the chimney, and wet a blanketand hold it close all round the fireplace; as soon as the current of airis stopped, the fire will be extinguished; with a CHARCOAL STOVE thereis no danger, as the diameter of the pan exceeds that of the fire. 

CHAPTER IV. 

BROILING. 

 “And as now there is nought on the fire that is spoiling, We’ll give you just two or three hints upon broiling; How oft you must turn a beefsteak, and how seldom A good mutton chop, for to have ’em both well done; And for skill in such cookery your credit ’t will fetch up, If your broils are well-seasoned with good mushroom catchup. ”

Cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of cookery. 

Keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars, and bright on the top:when it is hot, wipe it well with a linen cloth: just before you use it, rub the bars with clean mutton-suet, to prevent the meat from beingmarked by the gridiron. 

Take care to prepare your fire in time, so that it may burn quite clear:a brisk and clear fire is indispensable, or you cannot give your meatthat browning which constitutes the perfection of this mode of cookery, and gives a relish to food it cannot receive any other way. 

The chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters of an inch inthickness; if thicker, they will be done too much on the outside beforethe inside is done enough. 

Be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing is done:never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you make smoke and spoilit. 

Let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through, but yet not burning hotupon the surface: this is the perfect and fine condition of thegridiron. 

As the bars keep away as much heat as their breadth covers, it isabsolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the thing tobe cooked be laid on them. 

The bars of gridirons should be made concave, and terminate in a troughto catch the gravy and keep the fat from dropping into the fire andmaking a smoke, which will spoil the broil. 

Upright gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any fire withoutfear of smoke; and the gravy is preserved in the trough under them. 

N. B. Broils must be brought to table as hot as possible; set a dish toheat when you put your chops on the gridiron, from whence to the mouththeir progress must be as quick as possible. 

When the fire is not clear, the business of the gridiron may be done bythe Dutch oven or bonnet. 

FOOTNOTES:

[82-*] When you want a great many BREAD CRUMBS, divide your loaf (whichshould be two days old) into three equal parts; take the middle or crumbpiece, the top and bottom will do for table: _in the usual way ofcutting, the crust is wasted_. 

OATMEAL is a very satisfactory, and an extremely economical substitutefor _bread crumbs_. See No. 145. 

CHAPTER V. 

VEGETABLES. 

There is nothing in which the difference between an elegant and anordinary table is more seen than in the dressing of vegetables, moreespecially greens. They may be equally as fine at first, at one place asat another; but their look and taste are afterward very different, entirely from the careless way in which they have been cooked. 

They are in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty, _i. E. _ when infull season. 

By season, I do not mean those early days, that luxury in the buyers, and avarice in the sellers, force the various vegetables; but that timeof the year in which by nature and common culture, and the mereoperation of the sun and climate, they are in most plenty andperfection. 

Potatoes and pease are seldom worth eating before midsummer; unripevegetables are as insipid and unwholesome as unripe fruits. 

As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to thelargest or the smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full offlavour, just before they are quite full-grown. Freshness is their chiefvalue and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animalalive, as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead. 

The eye easily discovers if they have been kept too long; they soon losetheir beauty in all respects. 

Roots, greens, salads, &c. And the various productions of the garden, when first gathered, are plump and firm, and have a fragrant freshnessno art can give them again, when they have lost it by long keeping;though it will refresh them a little to put them into cold spring waterfor some time before they are dressed. 

To boil them in soft water will preserve the colour best of such as aregreen; if you have only hard water, put to it a tea-spoonful of_carbonate of potash_. [84-*]

Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, andinsects: this requires great attention. Pick off all the outside leaves, trim them nicely, and, if not quite fresh gathered and have becomeflaccid, it is absolutely necessary to restore their crispness beforecooking them, or they will be tough and unpleasant: lay them in a pan ofclean water, with a handful of salt in it, for an hour before you dressthem. 

“Most vegetables being more or less succulent, their full proportion offluids is necessary for their retaining that state of crispness andplumpness which they have when growing. On being cut or gathered, theexhalation from their surface continues, while, from the open vessels ofthe cut surface, there is often great exudation or evaporation; and thustheir natural moisture is diminished, the tender leaves become flaccid, and the thicker masses or roots lose their plumpness. This is not onlyless pleasant to the eye, but is a real injury to the nutritious powersof the vegetable; for in this flaccid and shrivelled state its fibresare less easily divided in chewing, and the water which exists invegetable substances, in the form of their respective natural juices, isdirectly nutritious. The first care in the preservation of succulentvegetables, therefore, is to prevent them from losing their naturalmoisture. ”--_Suppl. To Edin. Encyclop. _ vol. Iv. P. 335. 

They should always be boiled in a sauce-pan by themselves, and haveplenty of water; if meat is boiled with them in the same pot, they willspoil the look and taste of each other. 

If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, makeit boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before youput in the greens, &c. ; which should not be put in till the water boilsbriskly: the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When thevegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has beenkept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will losetheir colour and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly beforeyou send them to table. 

This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention. 

If vegetables are a minute or two too long over the fire, they lose alltheir beauty and flavour. 

If not thoroughly boiled tender, they are tremendously indigestible, andmuch more troublesome during their residence in the stomach, thanunder-done meats. [85-*]

To preserve or give colour in cookery, many good dishes are spoiled; butthe rational epicure who makes nourishment the main end of eating, willbe content to sacrifice the shadow to enjoy the substance. Vide _Obs. _to No. 322. 

Once for all, take care your vegetables are fresh: for as the fishmongeroften suffers for the sins of the cook, so the cook often getsundeservedly blamed instead of the green-grocer. 

Vegetables, in this metropolis, are often kept so long, that no art canmake them either look or eat well. 

Strong-scented vegetables should be kept apart; leeks, or celery, laidamong cauliflowers, &c. Will quickly spoil them. 

“Succulent vegetables are best preserved in a cool, shady, and dampplace. 

“Potatoes, turnips, carrots, and similar roots, intended to be storedup, should never be cleaned from the earth adhering to them, till theyare to be dressed. 

“They must be protected from the action of the air and frost, by layingthem in heaps, burying them in sand or earth, &c. , or covering them withstraw or mats. 

“The action of frost destroys the life of the vegetable, and it speedilyrots. ”--_Suppl. To Edin. Encyclop. _ vol. Iv. P. 335. 

MEM. --When vegetables are quite fresh gathered, they will not require somuch boiling, by at least a third of the time, as when they have beengathered the usual time those are that are brought to public markets. 

FOOTNOTES:

[84-*] Peàrlash is a sub-carbonate, and will answer the purpose. It is acommon article in the kitchen of the American housekeeper. A. 

[85-*] “CAULIFLOWERS and other vegetables are often boiled only crisp topreserve their beauty. For the look alone they had better not be boiledat all, and almost as well for the use, as in this crude state they arescarcely digestible by the strongest stomach. On the other hand, whenover-boiled, they become vapid, and in a state similar to decay, inwhich they afford no sweet purifying juices to the body, but load itwith a mass of mere feculent matter. ”--_Domestic Management_, 12mo. 1813, p. 69. 

CHAPTER VI. 

FISH. 

This department of the business of the kitchen requires considerableexperience, and depends more upon practice than any other. A very fewmoments, more or less, will thoroughly spoil fish;[86-*] which, to beeaten in perfection, must never be put on the table till the soup istaken off. 

So many circumstances operate on this occasion, that it is almostimpossible to write general rules. 

There are decidedly different opinions, whether fish should be put intocold, tepid, or boiling water. 

We believe, for some of the fame the Dutch cooks have acquired, they area little indebted to their situation affording them a plentiful supplyof fresh fish for little more than the trouble of catching it; and thatthe superior excellence of the fish in Holland, is because none areused, unless they are brought alive into the kitchen (mackerel excepted, which die the moment they are taken out of the water). The Dutch are asnice about this as Seneca says the Romans[86-+] were; who, complainingof the luxury of the times, says, “They are come to that daintiness, that they will not eat a fish, unless upon the same day that it istaken, that it may taste of the sea, as they express it. ”

On the Dutch flat coast, the fish are taken with nets: on our rockycoast, they are mostly caught by bait and hook, which instantly killsthem. Fish are brought alive by land to the Dutch markets, in watercasks with air-holes in the top. Salmon, and other fish, are thuspreserved in rivers, in a well-hole in the fishing-boat. 

All kinds of fish are best some time before they begin to spawn; and areunfit for food for some time after they have spawned. 

Fish, like animals, are fittest for the table when they are just fullgrown; and what has been said in Chapter V. Respecting vegetables, applies equally well to fish. 

The most convenient utensil to boil fish in, is a turbot-kettle. Thisshould be 24 inches long, 22 wide, and 9 deep. It is an excellent vesselto boil a ham in, &c. &c. 

The good folks of this metropolis are so often disappointed by havingfish which has been kept too long, that they are apt to run into theother extreme, and suppose that fish will not dress well unless it isabsolutely alive. This is true of lobsters, &c. (No. 176), and may be offresh-water fish, but certainly not of some sea-fish. 

Several respectable fishmongers and experienced cooks have assured theeditor, that they are often in danger of losing their credit by fish toofresh, and especially turbot and cod, which, like meat, require acertain time before they are in the best condition to be dressed. Theyrecommend them to be put into cold water, salted in proportion of abouta quarter of a pound of salt to a gallon of water. Sea-water is best toboil sea-fish in. It not only saves the expense of salt, but the flavouris better. Let them boil slowly till done; the sign of which is, thatthe skin of the fish rises up, and the eyes turn white. 

It is the business of the fishmonger to clean them, &c. But the carefulcook will always wash them again. 

Garnish with slices of lemon, finely scraped horseradish, fried oysters(No. 183), smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), or strips of soles, asdirected in No. 145. 

The liver, roe, and chitterlings should be placed so that the carver mayobserve them, and invite the guests to partake of them. 

N. B. FISH, like meat, requires more cooking in cold than in warmweather. If it becomes FROZEN, [88-*] it must be thawed by the means wehave directed for meat, in the 2d chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

[Fish are plenty and good, and in great variety, in all the towns andcities on the extensive coast of the United States. Some of the interiortowns are also supplied with fish peculiar to the lakes and rivers ofthis country. A. ]

FISH SAUCES. 

The melted butter (No. 256) for fish, should be thick enough to adhereto the fish, and, therefore, must be of the thickness of light batter, as it is to be diluted with essence of anchovy (No. 433), soy (No. 436), mushroom catchup (No. 439). Cayenne (No. 404), or Chili vinegar (No. 405), lemons or lemon-juice, or artificial lemon-juice, (see No. 407*), &c. Which are expected at all well-served tables. 

Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of their taste, andhousekeepers who value their health, will prepare these articles athome: there are quite as many reasons why they should, as there are forthe preference usually given to home-baked bread and home-brewed beer, &c. 

N. B. The liver of the fish pounded and mixed with butter, with a littlelemon-juice, &c. Is an elegant and inoffensive relish to fish (see No. 288). Mushroom sauce extempore (No. 307), or the soup of mock turtle(No. 247), will make an excellent fish sauce. 

On the comparatively nutritive qualities of fish, see N. B. To No. 181. 

FOOTNOTES:

[86-*] When the cook has large dinners to prepare, and the time ofserving uncertain, she will get more credit by FRIED (see No. 145), orstewed (see No. 164), than by BOILED fish. It is also cheaper, and muchsooner carved (see No. 145). 

Mr. Ude, page 238 of his cookery, advises, “If you are obliged to waitafter the fish is done, do not let it remain in the water, but keep thewater boiling, and put the fish over it, and cover it with a damp cloth;when the dinner is called for, dip the fish again in the water, andserve it up. ”

The only circumstantial instructions yet printed for FRYING FISH, thereader will find in No. 145; if this be carefully and nicely attendedto, you will have delicious food. 

[86-+] They had salt-water preserves for feeding different kinds ofsea-fish; those in the ponds of Lucullus, at his death, sold for25, 000_l. _ sterling. The prolific power of fish is wonderful: thefollowing calculations are from Petit, Block, and Leuwenhoeck:--

 _Eggs. _ A salmon of 20 pounds weight contained 27, 850 A middling-sized pike 148, 000 A mackerel 546, 681 A cod 9, 344, 000

See _Cours Gastronomiques_, 18mo. 1806, p. 241. 

[88-*] Fish are very frequently sent home frozen by the fishmonger, towhom an ice-house is now as necessary an appendage (to preserve fish, )as it is to a confectioner. 

CHAPTER VII. 

BROTHS AND SOUPS. 

The cook must pay continual attention to the condition of herstew-pans[89-*] and soup-kettles, &c. Which should be examined everytime they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine thecondition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers also mustbe kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stew-pans not only onthe inside, but about a couple of inches on the outside: many mischiefsarise from their getting out of repair; and if not kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be in vain; the broths and soups will look greenand dirty, taste bitter and poisonous, and will be spoiled both for theeye and palate, and your credit will be lost. 

The health, and even life of the family, depends upon this, and the cookmay be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman’s bill than thedoctor’s; therefore, attention to this cannot fail to engage the regardof the mistress, between whom and the cook it will be my utmostendeavour to promote perfect harmony. 

If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of herpan, [89-+] which will happen sometimes to the most careful cook, Iadvise her, by all means, immediately to acquaint her employers, whowill thank her for candidly mentioning an accident; and censure herdeservedly if she conceal it. 

Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy cloths, spoonsand ladles. Make it a rule without an exception, never to use them tillthey are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any stewpans, &c. Without first washing them out with boiling water, and rubbing them wellwith a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, &c. , or any bad smell they may have got since they were last used: neverneglect this. 

Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut as towilfully neglect her broth-pots, &c. , yet we may recommend her to washthem immediately, and take care they are thoroughly dried at the fire, before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry place, for damp willrust and destroy them very soon: attend to this the first moment you canspare after the dinner is sent up. 

Never put by any soup, gravy, &c. In metal utensils; in which never keepany thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the purposes ofcookery; the acid, vegetables, fat, &c. Employed in making soups, &c. Are capable of dissolving such utensils; therefore stone or earthenvessels should be used for this purpose. 

Stew-pans, soup-pots, and preserving pans, with thick and round bottoms(such as sauce-pans are made with), will wear twice as long, and arecleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides are soldered to thebottom, of which sand and grease get into the joined part, and cookeyssay that it is next to an impossibility to dislodge it, even if theirnails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar’s. The Editor claims the credit bfhaving first suggested the importance of this construction of theseutensils. 

Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the broth, soup, and sauces, &c. May not waste by evaporation. They are good for nothing, unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in and the smoke out. 

Stew-pans and sauce-pans should be always bright on the upper rim, wherethe fire does not burn them; but to scour them all over is not onlygiving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the vessels. Seeobservations on sauce-pans in Chapter I. 

Cultivate habits of regularity and cleanliness, &c. In all yourbusiness, which you will then get through easily and comfortably. I donot mean the restless spirit of _Molidusta_, “the _Tidy One_, ” who isanon, anon, Sir, frisking about in a whirlpool of bustle and confusion, and is always dirty, under pretence of being always cleaning. 

Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis of broth; procurethose pieces which afford the richest succulence, and as fresh killed aspossible. [90-*]

Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat iswasted. This only applies to those broths which are required to beperfectly clear: we shall show hereafter (in No. 229), that fat andclarified drippings may be so combined with vegetable mucilage, as toafford, at the small cost of one penny per quart, a nourishing andpalatable soup, fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength:this will open a new source to those benevolent housekeepers, who aredisposed to relieve the poor, will show the industrious classes how muchthey have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them frombeing objects of charity dependent on the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abundant, salubrious, andagreeable aliment for themselves and families. 

This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room. Those who have nottasted it, cannot imagine what a salubrious, savoury, and satisfyingmeal is produced by the judicious combination of cheap homelyingredients. 

Scotch barley broth (No. 204) will furnish a good dinner of soup andmeat for fivepence per head, pease soup (No. 221) will cost onlysixpence per quart, ox-tail soup (No. 240) or the same portable soup(No. 252), for fivepence per quart, and (No. 224) an excellent gravysoup for fourpence halfpenny per quart, duck-giblet soup (No. 244) forthreepence per quart, and fowls’ head soup in the same manner for stillless (No. 239), will give you a good and plentiful dinner for six peoplefor two shillings and twopence. See also shin of beef stewed (No. 493), and à-la-mode beef (No. 502). 

BROTH HERBS, SOUP ROOTS, AND SEASONINGS. 

 Scotch barley (No. 204). Pearl barley. Flour. OATMEAL (No. 572). Bread. Raspings. Pease (No. 218). Beans. Rice (No. 321*). Vermicelli. Macaroni (No. 513). Isinglass. Potato mucilage (No. 448). Mushrooms[91-*] (No. 439). Champignons. Parsnips (No. 213). Carrots (No. 212). Beet-roots. Turnips (No. 208). Garlic. Shallots, (No. 402. ) Onions. [91-+] Leeks. Cucumber. [92-*] Celery (No. 214). CELERY SEED. [92-+] Cress-seed, [92-+] (No. 397). Parsley, [92-++] (N. B. To No. 261. ) Common thyme. [92-++] Lemon thyme. [92-++] Orange thyme. [92-++] Knotted marjorum[92-++] (No. 417). Sage. [92-++] Mint (No. 398). Winter savoury. [92-++] Sweet basil[92-++] (No. 397). Bay leaves. Tomata. Tarragon (No. 396). Chervil. Burnet (No. 399). ALLSPICE[92-§] (No. 412). Cinnamon[92-§] (No. 416*). Ginger[92-§] (No. 411). Nutmeg. [92-§] Clove (No. 414). Mace. Black pepper. Lemon-peel (No. 407 & 408. ) White pepper. Lemon-juice. [92-||] Seville orange-juice. [92-¶] Essence of anchovy (No. 433). 

The above materials, wine, and mushroom catchup (No. 439), combined invarious proportions, will make an endless variety[93-*] of excellentbroths and soups, quite as pleasant to the palate, and as useful andagreeable to the stomach, as consuming pheasants and partridges, and thelong list of inflammatory, _piquante_, and rare and costly articles, recommended by former cookery-book makers, whose elaborately compoundedsoups are like their made dishes; in which, though variety is aimed at, every thing has the same taste, and nothing its own. 

The general fault of our soups seems to be the employment of an excessof spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs. [93-+]

Besides the ingredients I have enumerated, many culinary scribesindiscriminately cram into almost every dish (in such inordinatequantities, one would suppose they were working for the _asbestos_palate of an Indian fire-eater) anchovies, garlic, [93-++] bay-leaves, and that hot, fiery spice, _Cayenne_[93-§] pepper; this, which theFrench call (not undeservedly) _piment enragé_ (No. 404), has, somehowor other, unaccountably acquired a character for being very wholesome;while the milder peppers and spices are cried down, as destroying thesensibility of the palate and stomach, &c. , and being the source of athousand mischiefs. We should just as soon recommend alcohol as beingless intoxicating than wine. 

The best thing that has been said in praise of peppers is, “that withall kinds of vegetables, as also with soups (especially vegetable soups)and fish, either black or Cayenne pepper may be taken freely: they arethe most useful stimulants to old stomachs, and often supersede thecravings for strong drinks; or diminish the quantity otherwiserequired. ” See Sir A. CARLISLE _on Old Age_, London, 1817. A certainportion of condiment is occasionally serviceable to excite and keep upthe languid action of feeble and advanced life: we must increase thestimulus of our aliment as the inirritability of our system increases. We leave those who love these things to use them as they like; theirflavours can be very extemporaneously produced by chilly-juice, oressence of Cayenne (No. 405), eschalot wine (No. 402), and essence ofanchovy (No. 433). 

There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as anindispensable _overture_; it is commonly followed by “_le coupd’Après_, ” a glass of pure wine, which they consider so wholesome aftersoup, that their proverb says, the physician thereby loses a fee. Whether the glass of wine be so much more advantageous for the patientthan it is for his doctor, we know not, but believe it an excellent planto begin the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by moderating theappetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom. Between the _roasts_ and the _entremets_ they introduce “_le coup duMilieu_” or a small glass of _Jamaica rum_, or _essence of punch_ (seeNo. 471), or CURACAO (No. 474). 

The introduction of liqueurs is by no means a modern custom: ourancestors were very fond of a highly spiced stimulus of this sort, commonly called _Ipocrasse_, which generally made a part of the lastcourse, or was taken immediately after dinner. 

_The crafte to make ypocras. _

“Take a quarte of red wyne, an ounce of synamon, and halfe an ounce ofgynger; a quarter of an ounce of greynes (probably of paradise) and longpepper, and halfe a pounde of sugar; and brose (_bruise_) all this (_nottoo small_), and then put them in a bage (_bag_) of wullen clothe, made, therefore, with the wynee; and lete it hange over a vessel, till thewynee be run thorowe. ”--_An extract from Arnold’s Chronicle. _

It is a custom which almost universally prevails in the northern partsof Europe, to present _a dram_ or glass of _liqueur_, before sittingdown to dinner: this answers the double purpose of a whet to theappetite, and an announcement that dinner is on the point of beingserved up. Along with the dram, are presented on a waiter, little squarepieces of cheese, slices of cold tongue, dried tongue, and dried toast, accompanied with fresh _caviar_. 

We again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning, especially withpredominant flavours, which, however agreeable they may be to some, areextremely disagreeable to others. See page 50. 

Zest (No. 255), soy (No. 436), cavice, coratch, anchovy (No. 433), currypowder (No. 455), savoury ragoût powder (No. 457), soup herb powder (No. 459 and 460), browning (No. 322), catchups (No. 432), pickle liquor, beer, wine, and sweet herbs, and savoury spice (No. 460), are veryconvenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &c. 

The proportion of wine (formerly sack, then claret, now Madeira or port)should not exceed a large wine-glassful to a quart of soup. This is asmuch as can be admitted, without the vinous flavour becoming remarkablypredominant; though not only much larger quantities of wine (of whichclaret is incomparably the best, because it contains less spirit andmore flavour, and English palates are less acquainted with it), but even_véritable eau de vie_ is ordered in many books, and used by many(especially tavern cooks). So much are their soups overloaded withrelish, that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly make youdrunk, if they don’t make you sick: all this frequently arises from anold cook measuring the excitability of the eater’s palates by his own, which may be so blunted by incessant tasting, that to awaken it, requires wine instead of water, and Cayenne and garlic for black pepperand onion. 

Old cooks are as fond of _spice_, as children are of _sugar_, and seasonsoup, which is intended to constitute a principal part of a meal, ashighly as sauce, of which only a spoonful may be relish enough for aplate of insipid viands. (See _obs. _ to No. 355. ) However, we fancythese large quantities of wine, &c. Are oftener ordered in cookery booksthan used in the kitchen: practical cooks have the health of theiremployers too much at heart, and love “_sauce à la langue_” too well tooverwine their soup, &c. 

Truffles and morels[95-*] are also set down as a part of most receipts. These, in their green state, have a very rich high flavour, and aredelicious additions to some dishes, or sent up as a stew by themselveswhen they are fresh and fine; but in this state they are not served uphalf a dozen times in a year at the first tables in the kingdom: whendried they become mere “_chips in pottage_, ” and serve only to soak upgood gravy, from which they take more taste than they give. 

The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the severalingredients one to another, that no particular taste be stronger thanthe rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that the whole isdelightful. This requires that judicious combination of the materialswhich constitutes the “_chef d’œuvre_” of culinary science. 

In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be perfectly wellcleaned; proportion the water to the quantity of meat and otheringredients, generally a pound of meat to a quart of water for soups, and double that quantity for gravies. If they stew gently, little morewater need be put in at first than is expected at the end; for when thepot is covered quite close, and the fire gentle, very little is wasted. 

Gentle stewing is incomparably the best; the meat is more tender, andthe soup better flavoured. 

It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle should fitvery close, or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it. Themost essential parts are soon evaporated by quick boiling, without anybenefit, except to fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them. Anevident proof that these exhalations[96-*] possess the most restorativequalities is, that THE COOK, who is in general the least eater, is, asgenerally, the _fattest_ person in the family, from continually beingsurrounded by the quintessence of all the food she dresses; whereof shesends to HER MASTER only the fibres and calcinations, who isconsequently _thin_, _gouty_, and the victim of diseases arising frominsufficient nourishment. 

It is not only the _fibres_ of the meat which nourish us, but the_juices_ they contain, and these are not only extracted but exhaled, ifit be boiled fast in an open vessel. A succulent soup can never be madebut in a well-closed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts bypreventing their dissipation. This is a fact of which every intelligentperson will soon perceive the importance. 

Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the water hotwithout causing it to boil for at least half an hour; if the water boilsimmediately, it will not penetrate the meat, and cleanse it from theclotted blood, and other matters which ought to go off in scum; the meatwill be hardened all over by violent heat; will shrink up as if it wasscorched, and give hardly any gravy: on the contrary, by keeping thewater a certain time heating without boiling, the meat swells, becomestender, its fibres are dilated, and it yields a quantity of _scum_, which must be taken off as soon as it appears. 

It is not till after a good half hour’s hot infusion that we may mendthe fire, and make the pot boil: still continue to remove _the scum_;and when no more appears, put in the vegetables, &c. And a little salt. These will cause more _scum_ to rise, which must be taken offimmediately; then cover the pot very closely, and place it at a properdistance from the fire, where it will boil very gently, and equally, andby no means fast. 

By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of theingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, and the coarserparts are rendered soluble; so you lose the good, and get the bad. 

Soups will generally take from _three_ to _six_ hours. 

Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want them. Thiswill give you more time to attend to the rest of your dinner the nextday; and when the soup is cold, the _fat_ may be much more easily andcompletely removed from the surface of it. When you decant it, take carenot to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are sofine that they will escape through a sieve, or even through a TAMIS, which is the best strainer, the soups appear smoother and finer, and itis much easier cleaned than any sieve. If you strain it while it is hot, pass it through a clean tamis or napkin, previously soaked in coldwater; the coldness of this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer thepure broth to pass through. 

The full flavour of the ingredients can only be extracted by very longand slow simmering; during which take care to prevent evaporation, bycovering the pot as close as possible: the best stew-pot is a digester. 

Clear soups must be perfectly transparent; thickened soups, about theconsistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened soups requirenearly double the quantity of seasoning. The _piquance_ of spice, &c. Isas much blunted by the flour and butter, as the spirit of rum is by theaddition of sugar and acid: so they are less salubrious, without beingmore savoury, from the additional quantity of spice, &c. That issmuggled into the stomach. 

To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the following materialsare used: they must be gradually mixed with the soup till thoroughlyincorporated with it; and it should have at least half an hour’s gentlesimmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a tamis or afine sieve. Bread raspings, bread, isinglass, potato mucilage (No. 448), flour, or fat skimmings and flour (see No. 248), or flour and butter, barley (see No. 204), rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together, (see No. 257, in which this subject is fully explained. )

To give that _glutinous_ quality so much admired in _mock turtle_, seeNo. 198, and note under No. 247, No. 252, and N. B. To No. 481. 

To their very rich gravies, &c. The French add the white meat ofpartridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, and rubbed through asieve. A piece of beef, which has been boiled to make broth, pounded inthe like manner with a bit of butter and flour, see _obs. _ to No. 485*and No. 503, and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will befound a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles. 

Meat from which broth has been made (No. 185, and No. 252), and all itsjuice has been extracted, is then excellently well prepared for POTTING, (see No. 503), and is quite as good, or better, than that which has beenbaked till it is dry;[98-*] indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned inthe usual manner, it will be an elegant and savoury luncheon, or supper, and costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little, and a relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. (No. 504) of whatheretofore has been by the poorest housekeeper considered _theperquisite of the_ CAT. 

Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling, and gettoo thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, various sauces, &c. ; formany of which it is a much better basis than melted butter. 

The soup of mock turtle, and the other thickened soups, (No. 247), willsupply you with a thick gravy sauce for _poultry_, _fish_, _ragoûts_, &c. ; and by a little management of this sort, you may generally contriveto have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very little troubleor expense. See also _Portable Soup_ (No. 252). 

If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your soup-pot, and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated, orelse add some of the thickening materials we have before mentioned; andhave at hand some plain browning: see No. 322, and the _obs. _ thereon. This simple preparation is much better than any of the compounds bearingthat name; as it colours sauce or soup without much interfering with itsflavour, and is a much better way of colouring them than burning thesurface of the meat. 

When soups and gravies are kept from day to day, _in hot weather_, theyshould be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded tureens orpans, and placed in a cool cellar; in temperate weather every other daymay be enough. 

We hope we have now put the common cook into possession of the whole_arcana_ of soup-making, without much trouble to herself, or expense toher employers. It need not be said in future that an Englishman onlyknows how to make soup in his stomach, by swilling down a large quantityof ale or porter, to quench the thirst occasioned by the meat he eats. JOHN BULL may now make his soup “_secundùm artem_, ” and save hisprincipal viscera a great deal of trouble. 

⁂ In the following receipts we have directed the spices[99-*] andflavouring to be added at the usual time; but it would greatly diminishthe expense, and improve the soups, if the agents employed to give thema zest were not put in above fifteen minutes before the finish, and halfthe quantity of spice, &c. Would do. A strong heat soon dissipates thespirit of the wine, and evaporates the aroma and flavour of the spicesand herbs, which are volatile in the heat of boiling water. 

In ordering the proportions of meat, butter, wine, &c. The properquantity is set down, and less will not do: we have carried economyquite as far as possible without “spoiling the broth for a halfpennyworth of salt. ”

I conclude these remarks with observing, that some persons imagine thatsoup tends to relax the stomach. So far from being prejudicial, weconsider the moderate use of such liquid nourishment to be highlysalutary. Does not our food and drink, even though cold, become in a fewminutes a kind of warm soup in the stomach? and therefore soup, if noteaten too hot, or in too great a quantity, and of proper quality, isattended with great advantages, especially to those who drink butlittle. 

Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much sooner andbetter than those that are cold and raw: on this account, RESTORATIVESOUP is the best food for those who are enfeebled by disease ordissipation, and for old people, whose teeth and digestive organs areimpaired. 

 “Half subtilized to chyle, the liquid food Readiest obeys th’ assimilating powers. ”

After catching cold, in nervous headaches, cholics, indigestions, anddifferent kinds of cramp and spasms in the stomach, warm broth is ofexcellent service. 

After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holyday for a day ortwo by a diet on mutton broth (No. 564, or No. 572), or vegetable soup(No. 218), &c. Is the best way to restore its tone. “The stretching anypower to its utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be every dayobliged to do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. Awise traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he canin one day upon a long journey. ”--Father FEYJOO’S _Rules_, p. 85. 

To WARM SOUPS, &c. (No. 485. )

N. B. With the PORTABLE SOUP (No. 252), a pint of broth may be made infive minutes for threepence. 

FOOTNOTES:

[89-*] We prefer the form of a stew-pan to the soup-pot; the former ismore convenient to skim: the most useful size is 12 inches diameter by 6inches deep: this we would have of silver, or iron, or copper, lined(not plated) with silver. 

[89-+] This may be always avoided by browning your meat in thefrying-pan; it is the browning of the meat that destroys the stew-pan. 

[90-*] In general, it has been considered the best economy to use thecheapest and most inferior meats for soup, &c. , and to boil it down tillit is entirely destroyed, and hardly worth putting into the hog-tub. This is a false frugality: buy good pieces of meat, and only stew themtill they are done enough to be eaten. 

[91-*] MUSHROOM CATCHUP, made as No. 439, or No. 440, will answer allthe purposes of mushrooms in soup or sauce, and no store-room should bewithout a stock of it. 

[91-+] All cooks agree in this opinion, _No savoury dish without an_ ONION. 

_Sliced onions fried_, (see No. 299, and note under No. 517), with somebutter and flour, till they are browned (and rubbed through a sieve), are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups andsauces, and form the basis of most of the relishes furnished by the“_Restaurateurs_”--as we guess from the odour which ascends from theirkitchens, and salutes our olfactory nerves “_en passant_. ”

The older and drier the onion, the stronger its flavour; and the cookwill regulate the quantity she uses accordingly. 

[92-*] Burnet has exactly the same flavour as cucumber. See Burnetvinegar (No. 399). 

[92-+] The concentration of flavour in CELERY and CRESS SEED is such, that half a drachm of it (_finely pounded_), or double the quantity ifnot ground or pounded, _costing only one-third of a farthing_, willimpregnate half a gallon of soup with almost as much relish as two orthree heads of the fresh vegetable, weighing seven ounces, and costing_twopence_. This valuable acquisition to the soup-pot deserves to beuniversally known. See also No. 409, essence of CELERY. This is the mostfrugal relish we have to introduce to the economist: but that ourjudgment in palates may not be called in question by our fellow-mortals, who, as the _Craniologists_ say, happen to have the _organ of taste_stronger than the _organ of accumulativeness_, we must confess, that, with the flavour it does not impart the delicate sweetness, &c. Of thefresh vegetable; and when used, a bit of sugar should accompany it. 

[92-++] See No. 419, No. 420, and No. 459. Fresh green BASIL is seldomto be procured. When dried, much of its fine flavour is lost, which isfully extracted by pouring wine on the fresh leaves (see No. 397). 

To procure and preserve the flavour of SWEET AND SAVOURY HERBS, celery, &c. These must be dried, &c. At home (see No. 417* and No. 461). 

[92-§] See No. 421 and No. 457. Sir Hans Sloane, in the Phil. Trans. Abr. Vol. Xi. P. 667, says, “_Pimento_, the spice of Jamaica, orALLSPICE, so called, from having a flavour composed as it were ofcloves, cinnamon, nutmegs, and pepper, may deservedly be counted thebest and most temperate, mild, and innocent of common spices, almost allof which it far surpasses, by promoting the digestion of meat, andmoderately heating and strengthening the stomach, and doing thosefriendly offices to the bowels, we generally expect from spices. ” Wehave always been of the same opinion as Sir Hans, and believe the onlyreason why it is the least esteemed spice is, because it is thecheapest. “What folks get easy they never enjoy. ”

[92-||] If you have not fresh orange or lemon-juice, or Coxwell’scrystallized lemon acid, _the artificial lemon juice_ (No. 407) is agood substitute for it. 

[92-¶] The _juice_ of the SEVILLE ORANGE is to be preferred to that ofthe LEMON, the flavour is finer, and the acid milder. 

[93-*] The erudite editor of the “_Almanach des Gourmands_, ” vol. Ii. P. 30, tells us, that ten folio volumes would not contain the receipts ofall the soups that have been invented in that grand school of goodeating, --the Parisian kitchen. 

[93-+] “_Point de Légumes_, _point de Cuisinière_, ” is a favouriteculinary adage of the French kitchen, and deserves to be so: a bettersoup may be made with a couple of pounds of meat and plenty ofvegetables, than our common cooks will make you with four times thatquantity of meat; all for want of knowing the uses of soup roots, andsweet and savoury herbs. 

[93-++] Many a good dish is spoiled, by the cook not knowing the properuse of this, which is to give a flavour, and not to be predominant overthe other ingredients: a morsel mashed with the point of a knife, andstirred in, is enough. See No. 402. 

[93-§] Foreigners have strange notions of English taste, on which one oftheir culinary professors has made the following comment: “the organ oftaste in these ISLANDERS is very different from _our delicate palates_;and sauce that would excoriate the palate of a Frenchman, would behardly _piquante_ enough to make any impression on that of anEnglishman; thus they prefer port to claret, ” &c. As far as concerns ourdrinking, we wish there was not quite so much truth in _Monsieur’s_remarks, but the characteristic of the French and English kitchen is_sauce without substance_, and _substance without sauce_. 

To make CAYENNE of English chillies, of infinitely finer flavour thanthe Indian, see No. 404. 

[95-*] We tried to make catchup of these by treating them like mushrooms(No. 439), but did not succeed. 

[96-*] “A poor man, being very hungry, staid so long in a cook’s shop, who was dishing up meat, that his stomach was satisfied with only thesmell thereof. The choleric cook demanded of him to pay for hisbreakfast; the poor man denied having had any, and the controversy wasreferred to the deciding of the next man that should pass by, whochanced to be the most notorious idiot in the whole city: he, on therelation of the matter, determined that the poor man’s money should beput between two empty dishes, and the cook should be recompensed withthe jingling of the poor man’s money, as he was satisfied with the smellof the cook’s meat. ” This is affirmed by credible writers as no fable, but an undoubted truth. --FULLER’S _Holy State_, lib. Iii. C. 12, p. 20. 

[98-*] If the gravy be not completely drained from it, the articlepotted will very soon turn sour. 

[99-*] Economists recommend these to be pounded; they certainly gofarther, as they call it; but we think they go too far, for they gothrough the sieve, and make the soup grouty. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

 “The spirit of each dish, and ZEST of all, Is what ingenious cooks the relish call; For though the market sends in loads of food, They are all tasteless, till that makes them good. ”

 KING’S _Art of Cookery_. 

 “_Ex parvis componere magna. _”

It is of as much importance that the cook should know how to make a boatof good gravy for her poultry, &c. As that it should be sent up ofproper complexion, and nicely frothed. 

In this chapter, we shall endeavour to introduce to her all thematerials[101-*] which give flavour in _sauce_, which is the _essence ofsoup_, and intended to contain more relish in a _tea-spoonful_ than theformer does in a _table-spoonful_. 

We hope to deserve as much praise from the _economist_ as we do from the_bon vivant_; as we have taken great pains to introduce to him themethods of making substitutes for those ingredients, which are alwaysexpensive, and often not to be had at all. Many of these cheap articlesare as savoury and as salutary as the dearer ones, and those who havelarge families and limited incomes, will, no doubt, be glad to availthemselves of them. 

The reader may rest assured, that whether he consults this book todiminish the expense or increase the pleasures of hospitality, he willfind all the information that was to be obtained up to 1826, communicated in the most unreserved and intelligible manner. 

A great deal of the elegance of cookery depends upon the accompanimentsto each dish being appropriate and well adapted to it. 

We can assure our readers, no attention has been wanting on our part torender this department of the work worthy of their perusal; each receiptis the faithful narrative of actual and repeated experiments, and hasreceived the most deliberate consideration before it was here presentedto them. It is given in the most circumstantial manner, and not in thetechnical and mysterious language former writers on these subjects seemto have preferred; by which their directions are useless andunintelligible to all who have not regularly served an apprenticeship atthe stove. 

Thus, instead of accurately enumerating the quantities, and explainingthe process of each composition, they order a ladleful of _stock_, apint of _consommé_, and a spoonful of _cullis_; as if a private-familycook had always at hand a soup-kettle full of _stock_, a store of_consommé_, and the larder of _Albion house_, and the _spoons_ and_pennyworths_ were the same in all ages. 

It will be to very little purpose that I have taken so much pains toteach how to manage roasts and boils, if a cook cannot or will not makethe several sauces that are usually sent up with them. 

The most homely fare may be made relishing, and the most excellent andindependent improved by a well-made sauce;[102-*] as the most perfectpicture may, by being well varnished. 

We have, therefore, endeavoured to give the plainest directions how toproduce, with the least trouble and expense[102-+] possible, all thevarious compositions the English kitchen affords; and hope to presentsuch a wholesome and palatable variety as will suit all tastes and allpockets, so that a cook may give satisfaction in all families. The morecombinations of this sort she is acquainted with, the better she willcomprehend the management of every one of them. 

We have rejected some _outlandish farragoes_, from a conviction thatthey were by no means adapted to an English palate. If they have beenreceived into some English books, for the sake of swelling the volume, we believe they will never be received by an Englishman’s stomach, unless for the reason they were admitted into the cookery book, _i. E. _because he has nothing else to put into it. 

However “_les pompeuses bagatelles de la Cuisine Masquée_” may ticklethe fancy of _demi-connoisseurs_, who, leaving the substance to pursuethe shadow, prefer wonderful and whimsical metamorphoses, and thingsextravagantly expensive to those which are intrinsically excellent; inwhose mouth mutton can hardly hope for a welcome, unless accompanied byvenison sauce; or a rabbit, any chance for a race down the red lane, without assuming the form of a frog or a spider; or pork, without beingeither “_goosified_” or “_lambified_” (see No. 51); and game andpoultry in the shape of crawfish or hedgehogs; these travesties rathershow the patience than the science of the cook, and the bad taste ofthose who prefer such baby-tricks to nourishing and substantial plaincookery. 

I could have made this the biggest book with half the trouble it hastaken me to make it the best: concentration and perspicuity have been myaim. 

As much pains have been taken in describing, in the most intelligiblemanner, how to make, in the easiest, most agreeable, and economical way, those common sauces that daily contribute to the comfort of the middleranks of society; as in directing the preparation of those extravagantand elaborate double relishes, the most ingenious and accomplished“_officers of the mouth_” have invented for the amusement of profoundpalaticians, and thorough-bred _grands gourmands_ of the firstmagnitude: these we have so reduced the trouble and expense of making, as to bring them within the reach of moderate fortunes; still preservingall that is valuable of their taste and qualities; so ordering them, that they may delight the palate, without disordering the stomach, byleaving out those inflammatory ingredients which are only fit for an“iron throat and adamantine bowels, ” and those costly materials which norational being would destroy, for the wanton purpose of merely giving afine name to the compositions they enter into, to whose excellence theycontribute nothing else. For instance, consuming _two_ partridges tomake sauce for _one_: half a pint of game gravy (No. 329, ) will beinfinitely more acceptable to the unsophisticated appetite ofEnglishmen, for whose proper and rational recreation we sat down tocompose these receipts; whose approbation we have done our utmost todeserve, by devoting much time to the business of the kitchen; and byrepeating the various processes that we thought admitted of the smallestimprovement. 

We shall be fully gratified, if our book is not bought up with quite somuch avidity by those high-bred epicures, who are unhappily so much morenice than wise, that they cannot eat any thing dressed by an Englishcook; and vote it barbarously unrefined and intolerably ungenteel, toendure the sight of the best bill of fare that can be contrived, ifwritten in the vulgar tongue of old England. [103-*]

Let your sauces each display a decided character; send up your plainsauces (oyster, lobster, &c. ) as pure as possible: they should onlytaste of the materials from which they take their name. 

The imagination of most cooks is so incessantly on the hunt for arelish, that they seem to think they cannot make sauce sufficientlysavoury without putting into it every thing that ever was eaten; andsupposing every addition must be an improvement, they frequentlyoverpower the natural flavour of their PLAIN SAUCES, by overloading themwith salt and spices, &c. : but, remember, these will be deteriorated byany addition, save only just salt enough to awaken the palate. The loverof “_piquance_” and compound flavours, may have recourse to “_theMagazine of Taste_, ” No. 462. 

On the contrary, of COMPOUND SAUCES; the ingredients should be so nicelyproportioned, that no one be predominant; so that from the equal unionof the combined flavours such a fine mellow mixture is produced, whosevery novelty cannot fail of being acceptable to the persevering_gourmand_, if it has not pretensions to a permanent place at his table. 

An ingenious _cook_ will form as endless a variety of these compositionsas a _musician_ with his seven[104-*] notes, or a _painter_ with hiscolours; no part of her business offers so fair and frequent anopportunity to display her abilities: SPICES, HERBS, &c. Are often veryabsurdly and injudiciously jumbled together. 

Why have clove and allspice, or mace and nutmeg, in the same sauce; ormarjoram, thyme, and savoury; or onions, leeks, eschalots, and garlic?one will very well supply the place of the other, and the frugal cookmay save something considerable by attending to this, to the advantageof her employers, and her own time and trouble. You might as well, tomake soup, order one quart of water from the _Thames_, another from the_New River_, a third from _Hampstead_, and a fourth from _Chelsea_, witha certain portion of _spring_ and _rain_ water. 

In many of our receipts we have fallen in with the fashion of ordering amixture of spices, &c. , which the above hint will enable the culinarystudent to correct. 

“PHARMACY is now much more simple; COOKERY may be made so too. Aprescription which is now compounded with five ingredients, had formerlyfifty in it: people begin to understand that the materia medica islittle more than a collection of evacuants and stimuli. ”--_Boswell’sLife of Johnson. _

The _ragoûts of the last century_ had infinitely more ingredients thanwe use now; the praise given to _Will. Rabisha_ for his Cookery, 12mo. 1673, is

 “To fry and fricassee, his way’s most neat, For he compounds a thousand sorts of meat. ”

To become a perfect mistress of the art of cleverly extracting andcombining flavours, [105-*] besides the gift of a good taste, requiresall the experience and skill of the most accomplished professor, and, especially, an intimate acquaintance with the palate she is working for. 

Send your sauces to table as hot as possible. 

Nothing can be more unsightly than the surface of a sauce in a frozenstate, or garnished with grease on the top. The best way to get rid ofthis, is to pass it through a tamis or napkin previously soaked in coldwater; the coldness of the napkin will coagulate the fat, and onlysuffer the pure gravy to pass through: if any particles of fat remain, take them off by applying filtering paper, as blotting paper is appliedto writing. 

Let your sauces boil up after you put in wine, anchovy, or thickening, that their flavours may be well blended with the other ingredients;[105-+]and keep in mind that the “_chef-d’œuvre_” of COOKERY is, to entertainthe mouth without offending the stomach. 

N. B. Although I have endeavoured to give the particular quantity of eachingredient used in the following sauces, as they are generally made;still the cook’s judgment must direct her to lessen or increase eitherof the ingredients, according to the taste of those she works for, andwill always be on the alert to ascertain what are the favourite_accompaniments_ desired with each dish. See _Advice to Cooks_, page 50. 

When you open a bottle of _catchup_ (No. 439), _essence of anchovy_ (No. 433), &c. , throw away the old cork, and stop it closely with a new corkthat will fit it very tight. Use only the best superfine velvettaper-corks. 

Economy in corks is extremely unwise: in order to save a mere trifle inthe price of the cork, you run the risk of losing the valuable articleit is intended to preserve. 

It is a _vulgar error_ that a bottle must be well stopped, when the corkis forced down even with the mouth of it; it is rather a sign that thecork is too small, and it should be redrawn and a larger one put in. 

_To make bottle-cement. _

Half a pound of black resin, same quantity of red sealing-wax, quarteroz. Bees’ wax, melted in an earthen or iron pot; when it froths up, before all is melted and likely to boil over, stir it with a tallowcandle, which will settle the froth till all is melted and fit for use. Red wax, 10_d. _ per lb. May be bought at Mr. Dew’s Blackmore-street, Clare-market. 

N. B. This cement is of very great use in preserving things that you wishto keep a long time, which without its help would soon spoil, from theclumsy and ineffectual manner in which the bottles are corked. 

FOOTNOTES:

[101-*] See, in pages 91, 92, A CATALOGUE OF THE INGREDIENTS now used insoups, sauces, &c. 

[102-*] “It is the duty of a good sauce, ” says the editor of the_Almanach des Gourmands_ (vol. V. Page 6), “to insinuate itself allround and about the maxillary gland, and imperceptibly awaken intoactivity each ramification of the organs of taste: if not sufficientlysavoury, it cannot produce this effect, and if too _piquante_, it willparalyze, instead of exciting, those delicious titillations of tongueand vibrations of palate, that only the most accomplished philosophersof the mouth can produce on the highly-educated palates of thrice happy_grands gourmands_. ”

[102-+] To save time and trouble is the most valuable frugality: and ifthe mistress of a family will condescend to devote a little time to theprofitable and pleasant employment of preparing some of the STORESAUCES, especially Nos. 322. 402. 404. 413. 429. 433. 439. 454; these, both epicures and economists will avail themselves of the advantage nowgiven them, of preparing at home. 

By the help of these, many dishes may be dressed in half the usual time, and with half the trouble and expense, and flavoured and finished withmuch more certainty than by the common methods. 

A small portion of the time which young ladies sacrifice to torturingthe strings of their _piano-forte_, employed in obtaining domesticaccomplishments, might not make them worse wives, or less agreeablecompanions to their husbands. This was the opinion 200 years ago. 

“To speak, then, of the knowledge which belongs unto our Britishhousewife, I hold the most principal to be a perfect skill in COOKERY:she that is utterly ignorant therein, may not, by the lawes of strictjustice, challenge the freedom of marriage, because indeede she canperform but half her vow: she may love and obey, but she cannot cherishand keepe her husband. ”--G. MARKHAM’S _English Housewife_, 4to. 1637, p. 62. 

We hope our fair readers will forgive us, for telling them that economyin a wife, is the most certain charm to ensure the affection andindustry of a husband. 

[103-*] Though some of these people seem at last to have found out, thatan Englishman’s head may be as full of gravy as a Frenchman’s, andwilling to give the preference to native talent, retain an Englishman orwoman as prime minister of their kitchen; still they seem ashamed toconfess it, and commonly insist as a “_sine quâ non_, ” that theirEnglish domestics should understand the “_parlez vous_;” andnotwithstanding they are perfectly initiated in all the minutiæ of thephilosophy of the mouth, consider them uneligible, if they cannotscribble _a bill of fare in pretty good bad French_. 

[104-*] The principal agents now employed to flavour soups and saucesare, MUSHROOMS (No. 439), ONIONS (No. 420), ANCHOVY (No. 433), LEMON-JUICE and PEEL, or VINEGAR, WINE, (especially good CLARET), SWEETHERBS, and SAVOURY SPICES. --Nos. 420-422, and 457. 459, 460. 

[105-*] If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the best wayto refresh it is to wash your mouth well with milk. 

[105-+] Before you put eggs or cream into a sauce, have all your otheringredients well boiled, and the sauce or soup of proper thickness;because neither eggs nor cream will contribute to thicken it. --After youhave put them in, do not set the stew-pan on the stove again, but holdit over the fire, and shake it round one way till the sauce is ready. 

CHAPTER IX. 

MADE DISHES. 

Under this general head we range our receipts for HASHES, STEWS, andRAGOUTS, [106-*] &c. Of these there are a great multitude, affording theingenious cook an inexhaustible store of variety: in the French kitchenthey count upwards of 600, and are daily inventing new ones. 

We have very few general observations to make, after what we havealready said in the two preceding chapters on _sauces_, _soups_, &c. , which apply to the present chapter, as they form the principal part ofthe accompaniment of most of these dishes. In fact, MADE DISHES arenothing more than meat, poultry (No. 530), or fish (Nos. 146, 158, or164), stewed very gently till they are tender, with a thickened saucepoured over them. 

Be careful to trim off all the skin, gristle, &c. That will not beeaten; and shape handsomely, and of even thickness, the various articleswhich compose your made dishes: this is sadly neglected by common cooks. Only stew them till they are just tender, and do not stew them to rags;therefore, what you prepare the day before it is to be eaten, do notdress quite enough the first day. 

We have given receipts for the most easy and simple way to make HASHES, &c. Those who are well skilled in culinary arts can dress up things inthis way, so as to be as agreeable as they were the first time they werecooked. But hashing is a very bad mode of cookery: if meat has been doneenough the first time it is dressed, a second dressing will divest it ofall its nutritive juices; and if it can be smuggled into the stomach bybribing the palate with _piquante_ sauce, it is at the hazard of anindigestion, &c. 

I promise those who do me the honour to put my receipts into practice, that they will find that the most nutritious and truly elegant dishesare neither the most difficult to dress, the most expensive, nor themost indigestible. In these compositions experience will go far todiminish expense: meat that is too old or too tough for roasting, &c. , may by gentle stewing be rendered savoury and tender. If some of ourreceipts do differ a little from those in former cookery books, let itbe remembered we have advanced nothing in this work that has not beentried, and experience has proved correct. 

N. B. See No. 483, an ingenious and economical system of FRENCH COOKERY, written at the request of the editor by an accomplished ENGLISH LADY, which will teach you how to supply your table with elegant little madedishes, &c. At as little expense as plain cookery. 

FOOTNOTES:

[106-*] Sauce for ragoûts, &c. , should be thickened till it is of theconsistence of good rich cream, that it may adhere to whatever it ispoured over. When you have a large dinner to dress, keep ready-mixedsome fine-sifted flour and water well rubbed together till quite smooth, and about as thick as butter. See No. 257. 

THE

COOK’S ORACLE. 

BOILING. 

[Read the first chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. ]

_Leg of Mutton. _--(No. 1. )

Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm waterfor ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let itsimmer _very gently_, and skim it carefully. A leg of nine pounds willtake two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done, especially in very cold weather. 

For the accompaniments, see the following receipt. 

N. B. The _tit-bits_ with an epicure are the “knuckle, ” the kernel, called the “_pope’s eye_, ” and the “_gentleman’s_” or “_cramp bone_, ”or, as it is called in Kent, the “CAW CAW, ” four of these and a bounderfurnish the little masters and mistresses of Kent with their mostfavourite set of playthings. 

A leg of mutton stewed _very slowly_, as we have directed the beef to be(No. 493), will be as agreeable to an English appetite as the famous“_gigot[108-*] de sept heures_” of the French kitchen is to a Parisianpalate. 

When mutton is very large, you may divide it, and _roast the fillet_, i. E. The large end, and _boil the knuckle end_; you may also cut some finecutlets off the thick end of the leg, _and so have two or three good hotdinners_. See Mrs. MAKEITDO’S receipt how to make a leg of mutton last aweek, in “_the housekeeper’s leger_, ” printed for Whittaker, Ave-MariaLane. 

_The liquor the mutton is boiled in_, you may convert into good soup infive minutes, (see N. B. To No. 218, ) and Scotch barley broth (No. 204). Thus managed, a leg of mutton is a most economical joint. 

_Neck of Mutton. _--(No. 2. )

Put four or five pounds of the best end of a neck (that has been kept afew days) into as much cold soft water as will cover it, and about twoinches over; let it simmer very slowly for two hours: it will look mostdelicate if you do not take off the skin till it has been boiled. 

For sauce, that elegant and innocent relish, parsley and butter (No. 261), or eschalot (No. 294 or 5), or caper sauce (No. 274), mock capersauce (No. 275), and onion sauce (No. 298), turnips (No. 130), orspinage (No. 121), are the usual accompaniments to boiled mutton. 

_Lamb. _--(No. 3. )

A leg of five pounds should simmer very gently for about two hours, fromthe time it is put on, in cold water. After the general rules forboiling, in the first chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery, we havenothing to add, only to send up with it spinage (No. 122), broccoli (No. 126), cauliflower (No. 125), &c. , and for sauce, No. 261. 

_Veal. _--(No. 4. )

This is expected to come to table looking delicately clean; and it is soeasily discoloured, that you must be careful to have clean water, aclean vessel, and constantly catch the scum as soon and as long as itrises, and attend to the directions before given in the first chapter ofthe Rudiments of Cookery. Send up bacon (No. 13), fried sausages (No. 87), or pickled pork, greens, (No. 118 and following Nos. ) and parsleyand butter (No. 261), onion sauce (No. 298). 

N. B. For receipts to cook veal, see from No. 512 to No. 521. 

_Beef bouilli_, --(No. 5. )

In plain English, is understood to mean boiled beef; but its culinaryacceptation, in the French kitchen, is fresh beef dressed withoutboiling, and only very gently simmered by a slow fire. 

Cooks have seldom any notion, that good soup can be made withoutdestroying a great deal of meat; however, by a judicious regulation ofthe fire, and a vigilant attendance on the soup-kettle, this may beaccomplished. You shall have a tureen of such soup as will satisfy themost fastidious palate, and the meat make its appearance at table, atthe same time, in possession of a full portion of nutritioussucculence. 

This requires nothing more than to stew the meat very slowly (instead ofkeeping the pot boiling a gallop, as common cooks too commonly do), andto take it up as soon as it is done enough. See “Soup and bouilli” (No. 238), “Shin of beef stewed” (No. 493), “Scotch barley broth” (No. 204). 

Meat cooked in this manner affords much more nourishment than it doesdressed in the common way, is easy of digestion in proportion as it istender, and an invigorating, substantial diet, especially valuable tothe poor, whose laborious employments require support. 

If they could get good eating put within their reach, they would oftengo to the butcher’s shop, when they now run to the public-house. 

Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for bettering thecondition of the poor, a more useful or extensive charity cannot bedevised, than that of instructing them in economical and comfortablecookery, except providing them with spectacles. 

“The poor in Scotland, and on the Continent, manage much better. Oatmealporridge (Nos. 205 and 572) and milk, constitute the breakfast andsupper of those patterns of industry, frugality, and temperance, theScottish peasantry. 

“When they can afford meat, they form with it a large quantity of barleybroth (No. 204), with a variety of vegetables, by boiling the whole along time, enough to serve the family for several days. 

“When they cannot afford meat, they make broth of barley and othervegetables, with a lump of butter (see No. 229), all of which they boilfor many hours, and this with oat cakes forms their dinner. ” COCHRANE’S_Seaman’s Guide_, p. 34. 

The cheapest method of making a nourishing soup is least known to thosewho have most need of it. (See No. 229. )

Our neighbours the French are so justly famous for their skill in theaffairs of the kitchen, that the adage says, “as many Frenchmen as manycooks:” surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most deliciouswines and most seducing _liqueurs_, offering every temptation andfacility to render drunkenness delightful: yet a tippling Frenchman is a“_rara avis_;” they know how so easily and completely to keep life inrepair by good eating, that they require little or no adjustment fromdrinking. 

This accounts for that “_toujours gai_, ” and happy equilibrium ofspirits, which they enjoy with more regularity than any people. Theirstomach, being unimpaired by spirituous liquors, embrace and digestvigorously the food they sagaciously prepare for it, and render easilyassimilable by cooking it sufficiently, wisely contriving to get thedifficult part of the work of the stomach done by fire and water. 

_To salt Meat. _--(No. 6. )

In the _summer_ season, especially, meat is frequently spoiled by thecook forgetting to take out the kernels; one in the udder of a round ofbeef, in the fat in the middle of the round, those about the thick endof the flank, &c. : if these are not taken out, all the salt in the worldwill not keep the meat. 

The art of salting meat is to rub in the salt thoroughly and evenly intoevery part, and to fill all the holes full of salt where the kernelswere taken out, and where the butcher’s skewers were. 

A round of beef of 25 pounds will take a pound and a half of salt to berubbed in all at first, and requires to be turned and rubbed every daywith the brine; it will be ready for dressing in four or fivedays, [111-*] if you do not wish it very salt. 

In _summer_, the sooner meat is salted after it is killed the better;and care must be taken to defend it from the flies. 

In _winter_, it will eat the shorter and tenderer, if kept a few days(according to the temperature of the weather) until its fibre has becomeshort and tender, as these changes do not take place after it has beenacted upon by the salt. 

In frosty weather, take care the meat is not frozen, and warm the saltin a frying-pan. The extremes of heat[111-+] and cold are equallyunfavourable for the process of salting. In the former, the meat changesbefore the salt can affect it: in the latter, it is so hardened, and itsjuices are so congealed, that the salt cannot penetrate it. 

If you wish it red, rub it first with saltpetre, in the proportion ofhalf an ounce, and the like quantity of moist sugar, to a pound ofcommon salt. (See Savoury salt beef, No. 496. )

You may impregnate meat with a very agreeable vegetable flavour, bypounding some sweet herbs (No. 459, ) and an onion with the salt. You maymake it still more relishing by adding a little ZEST (No. 255), or_savoury spice_ (No. 457). 

_To pickle Meat. _

“Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces of saltpetre, boiled with four gallons of water, skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms avery strong pickle, which will preserve any meat completely immersed init. To effect this, which is essential, either a heavy board or a flatstone must be laid upon the meat. The same pickle may be usedrepeatedly, provided it be boiled up occasionally with additional saltto restore its strength, diminished by the combination of part of thesalt with the meat, and by the dilution of the pickle by the juices ofthe meat extracted. By boiling, the albumen, which would cause thepickle to spoil, is coagulated, and rises in the form of scum, whichmust be carefully removed. ”--See _Supplement to Encyclop. Britan. _ vol. Iv. P. 340. 

Meat kept immersed in pickle gains weight. In one experiment by Messrs. Donkin and Gamble, there was a gain of three per cent. , and in anotherof two and a half; but in the common way of salting, when the meat isnot immersed in pickle, there is a loss of about one pound, or one and ahalf, in sixteen. See Dr. Wilkinson’s account of the preserving power ofPYRO-LIGNEOUS ACID, &c. In the Philosophical Magazine for 1821, No. 273, p. 12. 

An H-bone of 10 or 12 pounds weight will require about three-quarters ofa pound of salt, and an ounce of moist sugar, to be well rubbed into it. It will be ready in four or five days, if turned and rubbed every day. 

The time meat requires salting depends upon the weight of it, and howmuch salt is used: and if it be rubbed in with a heavy hand, it will beready much sooner than if only lightly rubbed. 

N. B. Dry the salt, and rub it with the sugar in a mortar. 

PORK requires a longer time to cure (in proportion to its weight) thanbeef. A leg of pork should be in salt eight or ten days; turn it and rubit every day. 

Salt meat should be well washed before it is boiled, especially if ithas been in salt long, that the liquor in which the meat is boiled, maynot be too salt to make soup of. (No. 218, &c. And No. 555. )

If it has been in salt a long time, and you fear that it will be toosalt, wash it well in cold water, and soak it in lukewarm water for acouple of hours. If it is _very salt_, lay it in water the night beforeyou intend to dress it. 

_A Round of salted Beef. _--(No. 7. )

As this is too large for a moderate family, we shall write directionsfor the dressing half a round. Get the tongue side. 

Skewer it up tight and round, and tie a fillet of broad tape round it, to keep the skewers in their places. 

Put it into plenty of cold water, and carefully catch the scum as soonas it rises: let it boil till all the scum is removed, and then put theboiler on one side of the fire, to keep _simmering_ slowly till it isdone. 

Half a round of 15lbs. Will take about three hours: if it weighs more, give it more time. 

When you take it up, if any stray scum, &c. Sticks to it that hasescaped the vigilance of your skimmer, wash it off with a paste-brush:garnish the dishes with carrots and turnips. Send up carrots (No. 129), turnips (No. 130), and parsnips, or greens (No. 118), &c. On separatedishes. Pease pudding (No. 555), and MY PUDDING (No. 551), are all veryproper accompaniments. 

N. B. The outside slices, which are generally too much salted and toomuch boiled, will make a very good relish as potted beef (No. 503). Forusing up the remains of a joint of boiled beef, see also Bubble andSqueak (No. 505). 

_H-Bone of Beef_, --(No. 8. )

Is to be managed in exactly the same manner as the round, but will besooner boiled, as it is not so solid. An H-bone of 20lbs. Will be doneenough in about four hours; of 10lbs. In three hours, more or less, asthe weather is hotter or colder. Be sure the boiler is big enough toallow it plenty of water-room: let it be well covered with water: setthe pot on one side of the fire to boil gently: if it boils quick atfirst, no art can make it tender after. The slower it boils, the betterit will look, and the tenderer it will be. The same accompanyingvegetables as in the preceding receipt. Dress plenty of carrots, as coldcarrots are a general favourite with cold beef. 

_Mem. _--Epicures say, that the _soft_, fat-like marrow, which lies onthe back, is delicious when hot, and the _hard_ fat about the uppercorner is best when cold. 

To make PERFECTLY GOOD PEASE SOUP in _ten minutes_, of the liquor inwhich the beef has been boiled, see N. B. To No. 218. 

_Obs. _--In “Mrs. Mason’s Ladies’ Assistant, ” this joint is calledhaunch-bone; in “Henderson’s Cookery, ” edge-bone; in “DomesticManagement, ” aitch-bone; in “Reynold’s Cookery, ” ische-bone; in “Mrs. Lydia Fisher’s Prudent Housewife, ” ach-bone; in “Mrs. M’Iver’s Cookery, ”hook-bone. We have also seen it spelled each-bone and ridge-bone; and wehave also heard it called natch-bone. 

N. B. Read the note under No. 7; and to make perfectly good pease soup ofthe pot-liquor, in ten minutes, see _Obs. _ to No. 218, No. 229, and No. 555. 

_Ribs of Beef salted and rolled. _--(No. 9. )

Briskets, and the various other pieces, are dressed in the same way. “Wow-wow” sauce (No. 328, ) is an agreeable companion. 

_Half a Calf’s Head. _--(No. 10. )

Cut it in two, and take out the brains: wash the head well in severalwaters, and soak it in warm water for a quarter of an hour before youdress it. Put the head into a saucepan, with plenty of cold water: whenit is coming to a boil, and the scum rises, carefully remove it. 

Half a calf’s head (without the skin) will take from an hour and a halfto two hours and a quarter, according to its size; with the skin on, about an hour longer. It must be _stewed very gently_ till it is tender:it is then extremely nutritive, and easy of digestion. 

Put eight or ten sage leaves (some cooks use parsley instead, or equalparts of each) into a small sauce-pan: boil them tender (about half anhour); then chop them very fine, and set them ready on a plate. 

Wash the brains well in two waters; put them into a large basin of coldwater, with a little salt in it, and let them soak for an hour; thenpour away the cold, and cover them with hot water; and when you havecleaned and skinned them, put them into a stew-pan with plenty of coldwater: when it boils, take the scum off very carefully, and boil gentlyfor 10 or 15 minutes: now chop them (not very fine); put them into asauce-pan with the sage leaves and a couple of table-spoonfuls of thinmelted butter, and a little salt (to this some cooks add a littlelemon-juice), and stir them well together; and as soon as they are wellwarmed (take care they don’t burn), skin the tongue, [115-*] trim offthe roots, and put it in the middle of a dish, and the brains round it:or, chop the brains with an eschalot, a little parsley, and fourhard-boiled eggs, and put them into a quarter of a pint of bechamel, orwhite sauce (No. 2 of 364). A calf’s cheek is usually attended by apig’s cheek, a knuckle of ham or bacon (No. 13, or No. 526), or pickledpork (No. 11), and greens, broccoli, cauliflowers, or pease; and alwaysby parsley and butter (see No. 261, No. 311, or No. 343). 

If you like it full dressed, score it superficially, beat up the yelk ofan egg, and rub it over the head with a feather; powder it with aseasoning of finely minced (or dried and powdered) winter savoury orlemon-thyme (or sage), parsley, pepper, and salt, and bread crumbs, andgive it a brown with a salamander, or in a tin Dutch oven: when itbegins to dry, sprinkle a little melted butter over it with apaste-brush. 

You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon (No. 526 or 527). 

_Obs. _--Calf’s head is one of the most delicate and favourite dishes inthe list of boiled meats; but nothing is more insipid when cold, andnothing makes so nice a hash; therefore don’t forget to save a quart ofthe liquor it was boiled in to make sauce, &c. For the hash (see alsoNo. 520). Cut the head and tongue into slices, trim them neatly, andleave out the gristles and fat; and slice some of the bacon that wasdressed to eat with the head, and warm them in the hash. 

Take the bones and the trimmings of the head, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a roll of lemon-peel, and a blade of bruised mace: put theseinto a sauce-pan with the quart of liquor you have saved, and let itboil gently for an hour; pour it through a sieve into a basin, wash outyour stew-pan, add a table-spoonful of flour to the brains and parsleyand butter you have left, and pour it into the gravy you have made withthe bones and trimmings; let it boil up for ten minutes, and then strainit through a hair-sieve; season it with a table-spoonful of white wine, or of catchup (No. 439), or sauce superlative (No. 429): give it a boilup, skim it, and then put in the brains and the slices of head andbacon; as soon as they are thoroughly warm (it must not boil) the hashis ready. Some cooks egg, bread-crumb, and fry the finest pieces of thehead, and lay them round the hash. 

N. B. You may garnish the edges of the dish with slices of bacon toastedin a Dutch oven (see Nos. 526 and 527), slices of lemon and fried bread. 

To make gravy for hashes, &c. See No. 360. 

_Pickled Pork_, --(No. 11. )

Takes more time than any other meat. If you buy your pork ready salted, ask how many days it has been in salt; if many, it will require to besoaked in water for six hours before you dress it. When you cook it, wash and scrape it as clean as possible; when delicately dressed, it isa favourite dish with almost every body. Take care it does not boilfast; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces, before the thickpart of the meat is warm through; a leg of seven pounds takes threehours and a half very slow simmering. Skim your pot very carefully, andwhen you take the meat out of the boiler, scrape it clean. 

Some sagacious cooks (who remember to how many more nature has giveneyes than she has given tongues and brains), when pork is boiled, scoreit in diamonds, and take out every other square; and thus present aretainer to the eye to plead for them to the palate; but this ispleasing the eye at the expense of the palate. A leg of nice pork, nicely salted, and nicely boiled, is as nice a cold relish as cold ham;especially if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and soletting out its juices, you cut it at the knuckle: slices broiled, asNo. 487, are a good luncheon, or supper. To make pease pudding, andpease soup extempore, see N. B. To Nos. 218 and 555. 

MEM. --Some persons who sell pork ready salted have a silly trick ofcutting the knuckle in two; we suppose that this is done to save theirsalt; but it lets all the gravy out of the leg; and unless you boil yourpork merely for the sake of the pot-liquor, which in this case receivesall the goodness and strength of the meat, friendly reader, your oraclecautions you to buy no leg of pork which is slit at the knuckle. 

If pork is not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable; if too much, it not only loses its colour and flavour, but its substance becomes softlike a jelly. 

It must never appear at table without a good pease pudding (see No. 555), and, if you please, parsnips (No. 128); they are an excellentvegetable, and deserve to be much more popular; or carrots (No. 129), turnips, and greens, or mashed potatoes, &c. (No. 106. )

_Obs. _--Remember not to forget the mustard-pot (No. 369, No. 370, andNo. 427). 

_Pettitoes, or Sucking-Pig’s Feet. _--(No. 12. )

Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan with some broth, ablade of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a bit of thyme; boil the feettill they are quite tender; this will take full twenty minutes; but theheart, liver, and lights will be done enough in ten, when they are to betaken out, and minced fine. 

Put them all together into a stew-pan with some gravy; thicken it with alittle butter rolled in flour; season it with a little pepper and salt, and set it over a gentle fire to simmer for five minutes, frequentlyshaking them about. 

While this is doing, have a thin slice of bread toasted very lightly;divide it into sippets, and lay them round the dish: pour the mince andsauce into the middle of it, and split the feet, and lay them round it. 

N. B. Pettitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in batter, and fried alight brown. 

_Obs. _--If you have no gravy, put into the water you stew the pettitoesin an onion, a sprig of lemon thyme, or sweet marjoram, with a blade ofbruised mace, a few black peppers, and a large tea-spoonful of mushroomcatchup (No. 439), and you will have a very tolerable substitute forgravy. A bit of No. 252 will be a very great improvement to it. 

_Bacon. _--(No. 13. )

Cover a pound of nice streaked bacon (as the Hampshire housewives say, that “has been starved one day, and fed another”) with cold water, letit boil gently for three-quarters of an hour; take it up, scrape theunder-side well, and cut off the rind: grate a crust of bread not onlyon the top, but all over it, as directed for the ham in the followingreceipt, and put it before the fire for a few minutes: it must not bethere too long, or it will dry it and spoil it. 

Two pounds will require about an hour and a half, according to itsthickness; the hock or gammon being very thick, will take more. 

_Obs. _--See Nos. 526 and 527: when only a little bacon is wanted, theseare the best ways of dressing it. 

The boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to comment, upon; but ourmain object is to teach common cooks the art of dressing common food inthe best manner. 

Bacon is sometimes as salt as salt can make it, therefore before it isboiled it must be soaked in warm water for an hour or two, changing thewater once; then pare off the rusty and smoked part, trim it nicely onthe under side, and scrape the rind as clean as possible. 

MEM. --Bacon is an extravagant article in housekeeping; there is oftentwice as much dressed as need be: when it is sent to table as anaccompaniment to boiled poultry or veal, a pound and a half is plentyfor a dozen people. A good German sausage is a very economicalsubstitute for bacon; or fried pork sausages (No. 87). 

_Ham_, --(No. 14. )

Though of the bacon kind, has been so altered and hardened in thecuring, that it requires still more care. 

Ham is generally not half-soaked; as salt as brine, and hard as flint;and it would puzzle the stomach of an ostrich to digest it. 

MEM. --The salt, seasoning, and smoke, which preserve it before it iseaten, prevent its solution after; and unless it be very long and verygently stewed, the strongest stomach will have a tough job to extractany nourishment from it. If it is a very dry Westphalia ham, it must besoaked, according to its age and thickness, from 12 to 24 hours; for agreen Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham, from four to eight hours will besufficient. Lukewarm water will soften it much sooner than cold, whensufficiently soaked, trim it nicely on the underside, and pare off allthe rusty and smoked parts till it looks delicately clean. 

 lb. Oz. A ham weighed before it was soaked 13 After 12 4 Boiled 13 4 Trimmed for table 10 12

Give it plenty of water-room, and put it in while the water is cold; letit heat very gradually, and let it be on the fire an hour and a halfbefore it comes to a boil; let it be well skimmed, and keep it simmeringvery gently: a middling-sized ham of fifteen pounds will be done enoughin about four or five hours, according to its thickness. 

If not to be cut till cold, it will cut the shorter and tenderer forbeing boiled about half an hour longer. In a very small family, where aham will last a week or ten days, it is best economy not to cut it tillit is cold, it will be infinitely more juicy. 

Pull off the skin carefully, and preserve it as whole as possible; itwill form an excellent covering to keep the ham moist; when you haveremoved the skin, rub some bread raspings through a hair-sieve, or gratea crust of bread; put it into the perforated cover of the dredging-box, and shake it over it, or glaze it; trim the knuckle with a fringe of cutwriting-paper. You may garnish with spinage or turnips, &c. 

_Obs. _ To pot ham (No. 509), is a much more useful and economical way ofdisposing of the remains of the joint, than making essence of it (No. 352). To make soup of the liquor it is boiled in, see N. B. To No. 555. 

_Tongue. _--(No. 15. )

A tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying or pickling, that itrequires much more cooking than a ham; nothing of its weight takes solong to dress it properly. 

A tongue that has been salted and dried should be put to soak (if it isold and very hard, 24 hours before it is wanted) in plenty of water; agreen one fresh from the pickle requires soaking only a few hours: putyour tongue into plenty of cold water; let it be an hour graduallywarming; and give it from three and a half to four hours’ very slowsimmering, according to the size, &c. 

_Obs. _ When you choose a tongue, endeavour to learn how long it has beendried or pickled, pick out the plumpest, and that which has thesmoothest skin, which denotes its being young and tender. 

The roots, &c. Make an excellent relish potted, like No. 509, or peasesoup (No. 218). 

N. B. Our correspondent, who wished us, in this edition, to give areceipt to roast a tongue, will find an answer in No. 82. 

_Turkeys, Capons, Fowls, Chickens, &c. _--(No. 16. )

Are all boiled exactly in the same manner, only allowing time, accordingto their size. For the stuffing, &c. (Nos. 374, 375, and 377), some ofit made into balls, and boiled or fried, make a nice garnish, and arehandy to help; and you can then reserve some of the inside stuffing toeat with the cold fowl, or enrich the hash (Nos. 530 and 533). 

 A chicken will take about 20 minutes. A fowl 40 A fine five-toed fowl or a capon, about an hour. A small turkey, an hour and a half. A large one, two hours or more. 

Chickens or fowls should be killed at least one or two days before theyare to be dressed. 

Turkeys (especially large ones) should not be dressed till they havebeen killed three or four days at least, in cold weather six or eight, or they will neither look white nor eat tender. [120-*]

Turkeys, and large fowls, should have the strings or sinews of thethighs drawn out. 

Truss them with the legs outward, they are much easier carved. 

Fowls for boiling should be chosen as white as possible; if theircomplexion is not so fair as you wish, veil them in No. 2 of No. 364;those which have black legs should be roasted. The best use of the liveris to make sauce (No. 287). 

Poultry must be well washed in warm water; if very dirty from thesingeing, &c. Rub them with a little white soap; but thoroughly rinse itoff, before you put them into the pot. 

Make a good and clear fire; set on a clean pot, with pure and cleanwater, enough to well cover the turkey, &c. ; the slower it boils, thewhiter and plumper it will be. When there rises any scum, remove it; thecommon method of some (who are more nice than wise) is to wrap them upin a cloth, to prevent the scum attaching to them; which, if it does, byyour neglecting to skim the pot, there is no getting it off afterward, and the poulterer is blamed for the fault of the cook. 

If there be water enough, and it is attentively skimmed, the fowl willboth look and eat much better this way than when it has been covered upin the cleanest cloth, and the colour and flavour of your poultry willbe preserved in the most delicate perfection. 

_Obs. _ Turkey deserves to be accompanied by tongue (No. 15), or ham (No. 14); if these are not come-at-able, don’t forget pickled pork (No. 11), or bacon and greens (Nos. 83, 526, and 527), or pork sausages (No. 87), parsley and butter (No. 261); don’t pour it over, but send it up in aboat; liver (No. 287), egg (No. 267), or oyster sauce (No. 278). To warmcold turkey, &c. See No. 533, and following. 

To grill the gizzard and rump, No. 538. Save a quart of the liquor theturkey was boiled in; this, with the bones and trimmings, &c. Will makegood gravy for a hash, &c. 

_Rabbits. _--(No. 17. )

Truss your rabbits short, lay them in a basin of warm water for tenminutes, then put them into plenty of water, and boil them about half anhour; if large ones, three quarters; if very old, an hour: smother themwith plenty of white onion sauce (No. 298), mince the liver, and lay itround the dish, or make liver sauce (No. 287), and send it up in a boat. 

_Obs. _ Ask those you are going to make liver sauce for, if they likeplain liver sauce, or liver and parsley, or liver and lemon sauce (Nos. 287 and 288). 

N. B. It will save much trouble to the carver, if the rabbits be cut upin the kitchen into pieces fit to help at table, and the head divided, one-half laid at each end, and slices of lemon and the liver, choppedvery finely, laid on the sides of the dish. 

At all events, cut off the head before you send it to table, we hardlyremember that the thing ever lived if we don’t see the head, while itmay excite ugly ideas to see it cut up in an attitude imitative of life;besides, for the preservation of the head, the poor animal sometimessuffers a slower death. 

_Tripe. _--(No. 18. )

Take care to have fresh tripe; cleanse it well from the fat, and cut itinto pieces about two inches broad and four long; put it into astew-pan, and cover it with milk and water, and let it boil gently tillit is tender. 

If the tripe has been prepared as it usually is at the tripe shops, itwill be enough in about an hour, (this depends upon how long it has beenpreviously boiled at the tripe shop); if entirely undressed, it willrequire two or three hours, according to the age and quality of it. 

Make some onion sauce in the same manner as you do for rabbits (No. 298), or boil (slowly by themselves) some Spanish or the whitest commononions you can get; peel them before you boil them; when they aretender, which a middling-sized onion will be in about three-quarters ofan hour, drain them in a hair-sieve, take off the top skins till theylook nice and white, and put them with the tripe into a tureen orsoup-dish, and take off the fat if any floats on the surface. 

_Obs. _ Rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), or fried sausages (No. 87), are a very good accompaniment to boiled tripe, cow-heels (No. 198), orcalf’s feet, see Mr. Mich. Kelly’s sauce (No. 311*), or parsley andbutter (No. 261), or caper sauce (No. 274), with a little vinegar andmustard added to them, or salad mixture (No. 372 or 453). 

Tripe holds the same rank among solids, that water-gruel does amongsoups, and the former is desirable at dinner, when the latter is welcomeat supper. Read No. 572. 

_Cow-Heel_, --(No. 18. *)

In the hands of a skilful cook, will furnish several good meals; whenboiled tender (No. 198), cut it into handsome pieces, egg andbread-crumb them, and fry them a light brown; lay them round a dish, andput in the middle of it sliced onions fried, or the accompanimentsordered for tripe. The liquor they were boiled in will make soups (No. 229, 240*, or No. 555). 

N. B. We give no receipts to boil venison, geese, ducks, pheasants, woodcocks, and peacocks, &c. As our aim has been to make a useful book, not a big one (see No. 82). 

FOOTNOTES:

[108-*] The _gigot_ is the leg with part of the loin. 

[111-*] _If not to be cut till cold_, two days longer salting will notonly improve its flavour, but the meat will keep better. 

[111-+] In the West Indies they can scarcely cure beef with pickle, buteasily preserve it by cutting it into thin slices and dipping them insea-water, and then drying them quickly in the sun; to which they givethe name of _jerked beef_. --BROWNRIGG _on Salt_, 8vo. P. 762. 

[115-*] This, _salted_, makes a very pretty supper-dish. 

[120-*] BAKER, in his Chronicle, tells us the turkey did not reachEngland till A. D. 1524, about the 15th of Henry the 8th; he says, “_Turkies_, carps, hoppes, piccarell, and beere, Came into England all in one year. ”

ROASTING. 

 N. B. --_If the time we have allowed for roasting appears rather longer than what is stated in former works, we can only say, we have written from actual experiments, and that the difference may be accounted for, by common cooks generally being fond of too fierce a fire, and of putting things too near to it. _

 _Our calculations are made for a temperature of about fifty degrees of Fahrenheit. _

 SLOW ROASTING _is as advantageous to the tenderness and favour of meat as slow boiling, of which every body understands the importance. See the account of Count Rumford’s shoulder of mutton. _

 _The warmer the weather, and the staler killed the meat is, the less time it will require to roast it. _

 _Meat that is very fat_, requires more time than we have stated. 

 BEEF _is in proper season throughout the whole year. _

_Sirloin of Beef. _--(No. 19. )

The noble sirloin[122-*] of about fifteen pounds (if much thicker, theoutside will be done too much before the inside is enough), will requireto be before the fire about three and a half or four hours; take care tospit it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one side than the other;put a little clean dripping into the dripping-pan, (tie a sheet of paperover it to preserve the fat, [123-*]) baste it well as soon as it is putdown, and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till thelast half hour; then take off the paper, and make some gravy for it (No. 326); stir the fire and make it clear: to brown and froth it, sprinkle alittle salt over it, baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; letit go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises, take it up, put it onthe dish, &c. 

Garnish it with hillocks of horseradish, scraped as fine as possiblewith a very sharp knife, (Nos. 458 and 399*). A Yorkshire pudding is anexcellent accompaniment (No. 595, or No. 554). 

_Obs. _ The inside of the sirloin must never be cut[123-+] hot, butreserved entire for the hash, or a mock hare (No. 66*). (For variousways of dressing the inside of the sirloin, No. 483; for the receipt tohash or broil beef, No. 484, and Nos. 486 and 487; and for other ways ofemploying the remains of a joint of cold beef, Nos. 503, 4, 5, 6). 

_Ribs of Beef. _--(No. 20). 

The first three ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take threehours, or three and a half: the fourth and fifth ribs will lake as long, managed in the same way as the sirloin. Paper the fat, and the thinpart, or it will be done too much, before the thick part is done enough. 

N. B. A pig-iron placed before it on the bars of the grate answers everypurpose of keeping the thin part from being too much done. 

_Obs. _ Many persons prefer the ribs to the sirloin. 

_Ribs of Beef boned and rolled. _--(No. 21. )

When you have kept two or three ribs of beef till quite tender, take outthe bones, and skewer it as round as possible (like a fillet of veal):before they roll it, some cooks egg it, and sprinkle it with vealstuffing (No. 374). As the meat is more in a solid mass, it will requiremore time at the fire than in the preceding receipt; a piece of ten ortwelve pounds weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in lessthan four and a half or five hours. 

For the first half hour, it should not be less than twelve inches fromthe fire, that it may get gradually warm to the centre: the last halfhour before it will be finished, sprinkle a little salt over it; and ifyou wish to froth it, flour it, &c. 

_MUTTON. _[124-*]--(No. 23. )

As beef requires a large, sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and sharpone. If you wish to have mutton tender, it should be hung almost as longas it will keep;[124-+] and then good eight-tooth, _i. E. _ four yearsold mutton, is as good eating as venison, if it is accompanied by Nos. 329 and 346. 

The leg, haunch, and saddle will be the better for being hung up in acool airy place for four or five days at least; in temperate weather, aweek; in cold weather, ten days. 

If you think your mutton will not be tender enough to do honour to thespit, dress it as a “_gigot de sept heures_. ” See N. B. To No. 1 and No. 493. 

_A Leg_, --(No. 24. )

Of eight pounds, will take about two hours: let it be well basted, andfrothed in the same manner as directed in No. 19. To hash mutton, No. 484. To broil it, No. 487, &c. 

_A Chine or Saddle_, --(No. 26. )

(_i. E. _ the two loins) of ten or eleven pounds, two hours and a half:it is the business of the butcher to take off the skin and skewer it onagain, to defend the meat from extreme heat, and preserve itssucculence; if this is neglected, tie a sheet of paper over it (bastethe strings you tie it on with directly, or they will burn): about aquarter of an hour before you think it will be done, take off the skinor paper, that it may get a pale brown colour, then baste it and flourit lightly to froth it. We like No. 346 for sauce. 

N. B. Desire the butcher to cut off the flaps and the tail and chump end, and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to beeaten. This will reduce a saddle of eleven pounds weight to about six orseven pounds. 

_A Shoulder_, --(No. 27. )

Of seven pounds, an hour and a half. Put the spit in close to theshank-bone, and run it along the blade-bone. 

N. B. The blade-bone is a favourite luncheon or supper relish, scored, peppered and salted, and broiled, or done in a Dutch oven. 

_A Loin_, [125-*]--(No. 28. )

Of mutton, from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters. Themost elegant way of carving this, is to cut it lengthwise, as you do asaddle: read No. 26. 

N. B. Spit it on a skewer or lark spit, and tie that on the common spit, and do not spoil the meat by running the spit through the prime part ofit. 

_A Neck_, --(No. 29. )

About the same time as a loin. It must be carefully jointed, or it isvery difficult to carve. The neck and breast are, in small families, commonly roasted together; the cook will then crack the bones across themiddle before they are put down to roast: if this is not done carefully, they are very troublesome to carve. Tell the cook, when she takes itfrom the spit, to separate them before she sends them to table. 

_Obs. _--If there is more fat than you think will be eaten with the lean, cut it off, and it will make an excellent suet pudding (No. 551, or No. 554). 

N. B. The best way to spit this is to run iron skewers across it, and putthe spit between them. 

_A Breast_, --(No. 30. )

An hour and a quarter. 

To grill a breast of mutton, see _Obs. _ to No. 38. 

_A Haunch_, --(No. 31. )

(_i. E. _ the leg and part of the loin) of mutton: send up twosauce-boats with it; one of rich mutton gravy, made without spice orherbs (No. 347), and the other of sweet sauce (No. 346). It generallyweighs about 15 pounds, and requires about three hours and a half toroast it. 

_Mutton, venison fashion. _--(No. 32. )

Take a neck of good four or five years old Southdown wether mutton, cutlong in the bones; let it hang (in temperate weather) at least a week:two days before you dress it, take allspice and black pepper, ground andpounded fine, a quarter of an ounce each; rub them together, and thenrub your mutton well with this mixture twice a day. When you dress it, wash off the spice with warm water, and roast in paste, as we haveordered the haunch of venison. (No. 63). 

_Obs. _--Persevering and ingenious epicures have invented many methods togive mutton the flavour of venison. Some say that mutton, prepared asabove, may be mistaken for venison; others, that it is full as good. Therefined palate of a grand gourmand (in spite of the spice and wine themeat has been fuddled and rubbed with) will perhaps still protestagainst “Welch venison;” and indeed we do not understand by whatconjuration allspice and claret can communicate the flavour of venisonto mutton. We confess our fears that the flavour of venison (especiallyof its fat) is inimitable; but believe you may procure primeeight-toothed wether mutton, keep it the proper time, and send it totable with the accompaniments (Nos. 346 and 347, &c. ) usually given tovenison, and a rational epicure will eat it with as much satisfaction ashe would “feed on the king’s fallow deer. ”

_VEAL. _--(No. 33. )

VEAL requires particular care to roast it a nice brown. Let the fire bethe same as for beef; a sound large fire for a large joint, and abrisker for a smaller; put it at some distance from the fire to soakthoroughly, and then draw it near to finish it brown. 

When first laid down, it is to be basted; baste it again occasionally. When the veal is on the dish, pour over it half a pint of melted butter(No. 256): if you have a little brown gravy by you, add that to thebutter (No. 326). With those joints which are not stuffed, send upforcemeat (No. 374, or No. 375) in balls, or rolled into sausages, asgarnish to the dish, or fried pork sausages (No. 87); bacon (No. 13, orNo. 526, or No. 527), and greens, are also always expected with veal. 

_Fillet of Veal_, --(No. 34. )

Of from twelve to sixteen pounds, will require from four to five hoursat a good fire; make some stuffing or forcemeat (No. 374 or 5), and putit in under the flap, that there may be some left to eat cold, or toseason a hash;[127-*] brown it, and pour good melted butter (No. 266)over it, as directed in No. 33. 

Garnish with thin slices of lemon and cakes or balls of stuffing, or No. 374, or No. 375, or duck stuffing (No. 61), or fried pork sausages (No. 87), curry sauce (No. 348), bacon (No. 13), and greens, &c. 

N. B. Potted veal (No. 533). 

_Obs. _--A bit of the brown outside is a favourite with the epicure inroasts. The kidney, cut out, sliced, and broiled (No. 358), is a highrelish, which some _bons vivants_ are fond of. 

_A Loin_, --(No. 35. )

Is the best part of the calf, and will take about three hours roasting. Paper the kidney fat, and the back: some cooks send it up on a toast, which is eaten with the kidney and the fat of this part, which is asdelicate as any marrow. If there is more of it than you think will beeaten with the veal, before you roast it cut it out; it will make anexcellent suet pudding: take care to have your fire long enough to brownthe ends; same accompaniments as No. 34. 

_A Shoulder_, --(No. 36. )

From three hours to three hours and a half; stuff it with the forcemeatordered for the fillet of veal, in the under side, or balls made of No. 374. 

_Neck, best end_, --(No. 37. )

Will take two hours; same accompaniments as No. 34. The scrag part isbest made into a pie, or broth. 

_Breast_, --(No. 38. )

From an hour and a half to two hours. Let the caul remain till it isalmost done, then take it off to brown it; baste, flour, and froth it. 

_Obs. _--This makes a savoury relish for a luncheon or supper: or, instead of roasting, boil it enough; put it in a cloth between twopewter dishes, with a weight on the upper one, and let it remain so tillcold; then pare and trim, egg, and crumb it, and broil, or warm it in aDutch oven; serve with it capers (No. 274), or wow wow sauce (No. 328). Breast of mutton may be dressed the same way. 

_Veal Sweetbread. _--(No. 39. )

Trim a fine sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh); parboil it for fiveminutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. Roast it plain, or

Beat up the yelk of an egg, and prepare some fine bread-crumbs: when thesweetbread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth; run a lark-spit or askewer through it, and tie it on the ordinary spit; egg it with apaste-brush; powder it well with bread-crumbs, and roast it. 

For sauce, fried bread-crumbs round it, and melted butter, with a littlemushroom catchup (No. 439), and lemon-juice (Nos. 307, 354, or 356), orserve them on buttered toast, garnished with egg sauce (No. 267), orwith gravy (No. 329). 

_Obs. _--Instead of spitting them, you may put them into a tin Dutchoven, or fry them (Nos. 88, 89, or 513). 

_LAMB_, --(No. 40. )

Is a delicate, and commonly considered tender meat; but those who talkof tender lamb, while they are thinking of the age of the animal, forgetthat even a chicken must be kept a proper time after it has been killed, or it will be tough picking. 

Woful experience has warned us to beware of accepting an invitation todinner on Easter Sunday, unless commanded by a thorough-bred _gourmand_;our _incisores_, _molares_, and _principal viscera_ have protestedagainst the imprudence of encountering young, tough, stringy mutton, under the _misnomen_ of grass lamb. The proper name for “Easter grasslamb” is “hay mutton. ”

To the usual accompaniments of roasted meat, green mint sauce (No. 303), a salad (Nos. 372 and 138*), is commonly added; and some cooks, aboutfive minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a little fresh gatheredand finely minced parsley, or No. 318: lamb, and all young meats, oughtto be thoroughly done; therefore do not take either lamb or veal off thespit till you see it drop white gravy. 

Grass lamb is in season from Easter to Michaelmas. 

House lamb from Christmas to Lady-day. 

Sham lamb, see _Obs. _ to following receipt. 

N. B. When green mint cannot be got, mint vinegar (No. 398) is anacceptable substitute for it; and crisp parsley (No. 318), on a sideplate, is an admirable accompaniment. 

_Hind-Quarter_, --(No. 41). 

Of eight pounds, will take from an hour and three-quarters to two hours:baste and froth it in the same way as directed in No. 19. 

_Obs. _--A quarter of a porkling is sometimes skinned, cut, and dressedlamb-fashion, and sent up as a substitute for it. The leg and the loinof lamb, when little, should be roasted together; the former being lean, the latter fat, and the gravy is better preserved. 

_Fore-Quarter_, --(No. 42. )

Of ten pounds, about two hours. 

N. B. It is a pretty general custom, when you take off the shoulder fromthe ribs, to squeeze a Seville orange over them, and sprinkle them witha little pepper and salt. 

_Obs. _--This may as well be done by the cook before it comes to table;some people are not remarkably expert at dividing these joints nicely. 

_Leg_, --(No. 43. )

Of five pounds, from an hour to an hour and a half. 

_Shoulder_, --(No. 44. )

With a quick fire, an hour. 

See _Obs. _ to No. 27. 

_Ribs_, --(No. 45. )

About an hour to an hour and a quarter: joint it nicely, crack the ribsacross, and divide them from the brisket after it is roasted. 

_Loin_, --(No. 46. )

An hour and a quarter. 

_Neck_, --(No. 47. )

An hour. 

_Breast_, --(No. 48. )

Three-quarters of an hour. 

_PORK. _--(No. 49. )

The prime season for pork is from Michaelmas to March. 

Take particular care it be done enough: other meats under-done areunpleasant, but pork is absolutely uneatable; the sight of it is enoughto appal the sharpest appetite, if its gravy has the least tint ofredness. 

Be careful of the crackling; if this be not crisp, or if it be burned, you will be scolded. 

For sauces, No. 300, No. 304, and No. 342. 

_Obs. _--Pease pudding (No. 555) is as good an accompaniment to roasted, as it is to boiled pork; and most palates are pleased with the savourypowder set down in No. 51, or bread-crumbs, mixed with sage and onion, minced very fine, or zest (No. 255) sprinkled over it. 

N. B. “The western pigs, from Berks, Oxford, and Bucks, possess a decidedsuperiority over the eastern, of Essex, Sussex, and Norfolk; not toforget another qualification of the former, at which some readers maysmile, a thickness of the skin; whence the crackling of the roasted porkis a fine gelatinous substance, which may be easily masticated; whilethe crackling of the thin-skinned breeds is roasted into good block tin, the reduction of which would almost require teeth of iron. ”--MOUBRAY _onPoultry_, 1816, page 242. 

_A Leg_, --(No. 50. )

Of eight pounds, will require about three hours: score the skin acrossin narrow stripes (some score it in diamonds), about a quarter of aninch apart; stuff the knuckle with sage and onion, minced fine, and alittle grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and the yelk of an egg. See Duck Stuffing, (No. 61. )

Do not put it too near the fire: rub a little sweet oil on the skin witha paste-brush, or a goose-feather: this makes the crackling crisper andbrowner than basting it with dripping; and it will be a better colourthan all the art of cookery can make it in any other way; and this isthe best way of preventing the skin from blistering, which isprincipally occasioned by its being put too near the fire. 

_Leg of Pork roasted without the Skin, commonly called_ MOCKGOOSE. [131-*]--(No. 51. )

Parboil it; take off the skin, and then put it down to roast; baste itwith butter, and make a savoury powder of finely minced, or dried andpowdered sage, ground black pepper, salt, and some bread-crumbs, rubbedtogether through a colander; you may add to this a little very finelyminced onion: sprinkle it with this when it is almost roasted. Put halfa pint of made gravy into the dish, and goose stuffing (No. 378) underthe knuckle skin; or garnish the dish with balls of it fried or boiled. 

_The Griskin_, --(No. 52. )

Of seven or eight pounds, may be dressed in the same manner. It willtake an hour and a half roasting. 

_A Bacon Spare-Rib_, --(No. 53. )

Usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will take from two tothree hours to roast it thoroughly; not exactly according to its weight, but the thickness of the meat upon it, which varies very much. Lay thethick end nearest to the fire. 

A proper bald spare-rib of eight pounds weight (so called because almostall the meat is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done in an hourand a quarter. There is so little meat on a bald spare-rib, that if youhave a large, fierce fire, it will be burned before it is warm through. Joint it nicely, and crack the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. 

When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and baste it with alittle butter; dry a dozen sage leaves, and rub them through ahair-sieve, and put them into the top of a pepper-box; and about aquarter of an hour before the meat is done, baste it with butter; dustthe pulverized sage, or the savoury powder in No. 51; or sprinkle withduck stuffing (No. 61). 

_Obs. _--Make it a general rule never to pour gravy over any thing thatis roasted; by so doing, the dredging, &c. Is washed off, and it eatsinsipid. 

Some people carve a spare-rib by cutting out in slices the thick part atthe bottom of the bones. When this meat is cut away, the bones may beeasily separated, and are esteemed very sweet picking. 

Apple sauce (No. 304), mashed potatoes (No. 106), and good mustard (No. 370, ) are indispensable. 

_Loin_, --(No. 54. )

Of five pounds, must be kept at a good distance from the fire on accountof the crackling, and will take about two hours; if very fat, half anhour longer. 

Stuff it with duck stuffing (No. 378). Score the skin in stripes, abouta quarter of an inch apart, and rub it with salad oil, as directed inNo. 50. You may sprinkle over it some of the savoury powder recommendedfor the mock goose (No. 51). 

_A Chine. _--(No. 55. )

If parted down the back-bone so as to have but one side, a good firewill roast it in two hours; if not parted, three hours. 

N. B. Chines are generally salted and boiled. 

_A Sucking-Pig_, [133-*]--(No. 56. )

Is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old. 

It loses part of its goodness every hour after it is killed; if notquite fresh, no art can make the crackling crisp. 

To be in perfection, it should be killed in the morning to be eaten atdinner: it requires very careful roasting. A sucking-pig, like a youngchild, must not be left for an instant. 

The ends must have much more fire than the middle: for this purpose iscontrived an iron to hang before the middle part, called a pig-iron. Ifyou have not this, use a common flat iron, or keep the fire fiercest atthe two ends. 

For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a stale loaf about five ounces;rub it through a colander; mince fine a handful of sage (_i. E. _ abouttwo ounces), and a large onion (about an ounce and a half[133-+]). Mixthese together with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter asbig as an egg. Fill the belly of the pig with this, and sew it up: layit to the fire, and baste it with salad oil till it is quite done. Donot leave it a moment: it requires the most vigilant attendance. 

Roast it at a clear, brisk fire at some distance. To gain the praise ofepicurean pig-eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped anddelicately lightly browned, without being either blistered or burnt. 

A small, three weeks old pig will be done enough[133-++] in about anhour and a half. 

Before you take it from the fire, cut off the head, and part that andthe body down the middle: chop the brains very fine, with some boiledsage leaves, and mix them with good veal gravy, made as directed in No. 192, or beef gravy (No. 329), or what runs from the pig when you cut itshead off. Send up a tureenful of gravy (No. 329) besides. Currant sauceis still a favourite with some of the old school. 

Lay your pig back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on eachside, and the ears one at each end, which you must take care to makenice and crisp; or you will get scolded, and deservedly, as the sillyfellow was who bought his wife a pig with only one ear. 

When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the skin long round the ends ofthe legs. When you first lay the pig before the fire, rub it all overwith fresh butter or salad oil: ten minutes after, and the skin looksdry; dredge it well with flour all over, let it remain on an hour, thenrub it off with a soft cloth. 

N. B. A pig is a very troublesome subject to roast; most persons havethem baked. Send a quarter of a pound of butter, and beg the baker tobaste it well. 

_Turkey, Turkey Poults, and other Poultry. _--(No. 57. )

A fowl and a turkey require the same management at the fire, only thelatter will take longer time. 

Many a Christmas dinner has been spoiled by the turkey having been hungup in a cold larder, and becoming thoroughly frozen; _Jack Frost_ hasruined the reputation of many a turkey-roaster: therefore, in very coldweather, remember the note in the 5th page of the 3d chapter of theRudiments of Cookery. 

Let them be carefully picked, &c. And break the breast-bone (to makethem look plump), twist up a sheet of clean writing-paper, light it, andthoroughly singe the turkey all over, turning it about over the flame. 

Turkeys, fowls, and capons have a much better appearance, if, instead oftrussing them with the legs close together, and the feet cut off, thelegs are extended on each side of the bird, and the toes only cut offwith a skewer through each foot, to keep them at a proper distance. 

Be careful, when you draw it, to preserve the liver, and not to breakthe gall-bag, as no washing will take off the bitter taste it gives, where it once touches. 

Prepare a nice, clear, brisk fire for it. 

Make stuffing according to No. 374, or 376; stuff it under the breast, where the craw was taken out, and make some into balls, and boil or frythem, and lay them round the dish; they are handy to help, and you canthen reserve some of the inside stuffing to eat with the cold turkey, orto enrich a hash (No. 533). 

Score the gizzard, dip it into the yelk of an egg or melted butter, andsprinkle it with salt and a few grains of Cayenne; put it under onepinion and the liver under the other; cover the liver with butteredpaper, to prevent it from getting hardened or burnt. 

When you first put a turkey down to roast, dredge it with flour; thenput about an ounce of butter into a basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste the bird therewith. 

Keep it at a distance from the fire for the first half hour, that it maywarm gradually; then put it nearer, and when it is plumped up, and thesteam draws in towards the fire, it is nearly enough; then dredge itlightly with flour, and put a bit of butter into your basting-ladle, andas it melts, baste the turkey with it; this will raise a finer froththan can be produced by using the fat out of the pan. 

A very large turkey will require about three hours to roast itthoroughly; a middling-sized one, of eight or ten pounds (which is farnicer eating than the very large one), about two hours; a small one maybe done in an hour and a half. 

Turkey poults are of various sizes, and will take about an hour and ahalf; they should be trussed, with their legs twisted under like a duck, and the head under the wing like a pheasant. 

Fried pork sausages (No. 87) are a very savoury and favouriteaccompaniment to either roasted or boiled poultry. A turkey thusgarnished is called “an alderman in chains. ”

Sausage-meat is sometimes used as stuffing, instead of the ordinaryforcemeat. (No. 376, &c. )

MEM. If you wish a turkey, especially a very large one, to be tender, never dress it till at least four or five days (in cold weather, eightor ten) after it has been killed. “No man who understands good livingwill say, on such a day I will eat that turkey; but will hang it up byfour of the large tail-feathers, and when, on paying his morning visitto the larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive itwhen it falls, that day let it be cooked. ”

Hen turkeys are preferable to cocks for whiteness and tenderness, andthe small fleshy ones with black legs are most esteemed. 

Send up with them oyster (No. 278), egg (No. 267), bread (No. 221), andplenty of gravy sauce (No. 329). To hash turkey, No. 533. 

MEM. Some epicures are very fond of the gizzard and rump, peppered andsalted, and broiled. (See No. 538, “how to dress a devil with _véritablesauce d’enfer_!!”)

_Capons or Fowls_, --(No. 58. )

Must be killed a couple of days in moderate, and more in cold weather, before they are dressed, or they will eat tough: a good criterion of theripeness of poultry for the spit, is the ease with which you can thenpull out the feathers; when a fowl is plucked, leave a few to help youto ascertain this. 

They are managed exactly in the same manner, and sent up with the samesauces as a turkey, only they require proportionably less time at thefire. 

A full-grown five-toed fowl, about an hour and a quarter. 

A moderate-sized one, an hour. 

A chicken, from thirty to forty minutes. 

Here, also, pork sausages fried (No. 87) are in general a favouriteaccompaniment, or turkey stuffing; see forcemeats (Nos. 374, 5, 6, and7); put in plenty of it, so as to plump out the fowl, which must be tiedclosely (both at the neck and rump), to keep in the stuffing. 

Some cooks put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat, and othersmince it and pound it, and rub it up with flour and melted butter (No. 287). 

When the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the gizzard nicely, dip itinto melted butter, let it drain, and then season it with Cayenne andsalt; put it under one pinion, and the liver under the other; to preventtheir getting hardened or scorched, cover them with double paperbuttered. 

Take care that your roasted poultry be well browned; it is asindispensable that roasted poultry should have a rich brown complexion, as boiled poultry should have a delicate white one. 

_Obs. _ “The art of fattening poultry for the market is a considerablebranch of rural economy in some convenient situations, and consists insupplying them with plenty of healthy food, and confining them; andducks and geese must be prevented from going into water, which preventsthem from becoming fat, and they also thereby acquire a rancid, fishytaste. They are put into a dark place, and crammed with a paste made ofbarley meal, mutton-suet, and some treacle or coarse sugar mixed withmilk, and are found to be completely ripe in a fortnight. If keptlonger, the fever that is induced by this continued state of repletionrenders them red and unsaleable, and frequently kills them. ” Butexercise is as indispensable to the health of poultry as othercreatures; without it, the fat will be all accumulated in the cellularmembrane, instead of being dispersed through its system. See MOUBRAY_on breeding and fattening domestic Poultry_, 12mo. 1819. 

Fowls which are fattened artificially are by some epicures preferred tothose called barn-door fowls; whom we have heard say, that they shouldas soon think of ordering a barn-door for dinner as a barn-door fowl. 

The age of poultry makes all the difference: nothing is tenderer than ayoung chicken; few things are tougher than an old cock or hen, which isonly fit to make broth. The meridian of perfection of poultry is justbefore they have come to their full growth, before they have begun toharden. 

For sauces, see No. 305, or liver and parsley, No. 287, and thoseordered in the last receipt. To hash it, No. 533. 

_Goose. _--(No. 59. )

When a goose is well picked, singed, and cleaned, make the stuffing withabout two ounces of onion, [137-*] and half as much green sage, chop themvery fine, adding four ounces, _i. E. _ about a large breakfast-cupful ofstale bread-crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a walnut, and a verylittle pepper and salt (to this some cooks add half the liver, [137-+]parboiling it first), the yelk of an egg or two, and incorporating thewhole well together, stuff the goose; do not quite fill it, but leave alittle room for the stuffing to swell; spit it, tie it on the spit atboth ends, to prevent its swinging round, and to keep the stuffing fromcoming out. From an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters, willroast a fine full-grown goose. Send up gravy and apple sauce with it(see Nos. 300, 304, 329, and 341). To hash it, see No. 530. 

For another stuffing for geese, see No. 378. 

_Obs. _ “Goose-feeding in the vicinity of the metropolis is so large aconcern, that one person annually feeds for market upwards of 5000. ” “Agoose on a farm in Scotland, two years since, of the clearly ascertainedage of 89 years, healthy and vigorous, was killed by a sow while sittingover her eggs; it was supposed she might have lived many years, and herfecundity appeared to be permanent. Other geese have been proved toreach the age of 70 years. ” MOUBRAY _on Poultry_, p. 40. 

It appears in Dr. STARK’S _Experiments on Diet_, p. 110, that “when hefed upon roasted goose, he was more vigorous both in body and mind thanwith any other diet. ”

The goose at Michaelmas is as famous in the mouths of the million, asthe minced-pie at Christmas; but for those who eat with delicacy, it isby that time too full-grown. 

The true period when the goose is in its highest perfection, is when ithas just acquired its full growth, and not begun to harden. If the Marchgoose is insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank; the fine time is betweenboth, from the second week in June to the first in September: the leg isnot the most tender part of a goose. See Mock Goose (No. 51). 

_Green Goose. _--(No. 60. )

Geese are called green till they are about four months old. 

The only difference between roasting these and a full-grown goose, consists in seasoning it with pepper and salt instead of sage and onion, and roasting it for forty or fifty minutes only. 

_Obs. _ This is one of the least desirable of those insipid prematureproductions, which are esteemed dainties. 

_Duck. _--(No. 61. )

Mind your duck is well cleaned, and wiped out with a clean cloth: forthe stuffing, take an ounce of onion and half an ounce of green sage;chop them very fine, and mix them with two ounces, _i. E. _ about abreakfast-cupful, of bread-crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as awalnut, a very little black pepper and salt, (some obtuse palates mayrequire warming with a little Cayenne, No. 404, ) and the yelk of an eggto bind it; mix these thoroughly together, and put into the duck. Foranother stuffing, see No. 378. From half to three-quarters of an hourwill be enough to roast it, according to the size: contrive to have thefeet delicately crisp, as some people are very fond of them; to do thisnicely you must have a sharp fire. For sauce, green pease (No. 134), bonne bouche (No. 341), gravy sauce (No. 329), and sage and onion sauce(No. 300). 

To hash or stew ducks, see No. 530. 

N. B. If you think the raw onion will make too strong an impression uponthe palate, parboil it. Read _Obs. _ to No. 59. 

To ensure ducks being tender, in moderate weather kill them a few daysbefore you dress them. 

_Haunch of Venison. _--(No. 63. )

To preserve the fat, make a paste of flour and water, as much as willcover the haunch; wipe it with a dry cloth in every part; rub a largesheet of paper all over with butter, and cover the venison with it; thenroll out the paste about three-quarters of an inch thick; lay this allover the fat side, and cover it well with three or four sheets of strongwhite paper, and tie it securely on with packthread: have a strong, close fire, and baste your venison as soon as you lay it down to roast(to prevent the paper and string from burning); it must be well bastedall the time. 

A buck haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25 pounds; will take aboutfour hours and a half roasting in warm, and longer in cold weather: ahaunch of from 19 to 18 pounds will be done in about three or three anda half. 

A quarter of an hour before it is done, the string must be cut, and thepaste carefully taken off; now baste it with butter, dredge it lightlywith flour, and when the froth rises, and it has got a very light browncolour, garnish the knuckle-bone with a ruffle of cut writing-paper, andsend it up, with good, strong (but unseasoned) gravy (No. 347) in oneboat, and currant-jelly sauce in the other, or currant-jelly in a sideplate (not melted): see for sauces, Nos. 344, 5, 6, and 7. MEM. “_thealderman’s walk_” is the favourite part. 

_Obs. _ Buck venison is in greatest perfection from midsummer toMichaelmas, and doe from November to January. 

_Neck and Shoulder of Venison_, --(No. 64. )

Are to be managed in the same way as the haunch; only they do notrequire the coat or paste, and will not take so much time. 

The best way to spit a neck is to put three skewers through it, and putthe spit between the skewers and the bones. 

_A Fawn_, --(No. 65. )

Like a sucking-pig, should be dressed almost as soon as killed. Whenvery young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spitted the same way as a hare:but they are better eating when of the size of a house lamb, and arethen roasted in quarters; the hind-quarter is most esteemed. 

They must be put down to a very quick fire, and either basted all thetime they are roasting, or be covered with sheets of fat bacon; whendone, baste it with butter, and dredge it with a little salt and flour, till you make a nice froth on it. 

N. B. We advise our friends to half roast a fawn as soon as they receiveit, and then make a hash of it like No. 528. 

Send up venison sauce with it. See the preceding receipt, or No. 344, &c. 

_A Kid. _--(No. 65*. )

A young sucking-kid is very good eating; to have it in prime condition, the dam should be kept up, and well fed, &c. 

Roast it like a fawn or hare. 

_Hare. _--(No. 66. )

 “_Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus. _”--MARTIAL. 

The first points of consideration are, how old is the hare? and how longhas it been killed? When young, it is easy of digestion, and verynourishing; when old, the contrary in every respect. 

To ascertain the age, examine the first joint of the forefoot; you willfind a small knob, if it is a leveret, which disappears as it growsolder; then examine the ears, if they tear easily, it will eat tender;if they are tough, so will be the hare, which we advise you to make intosoup (No. 241), or stew or jug it (No. 523). 

When newly killed, the body is stiff; as it grows stale, it becomeslimp. 

As soon as you receive a hare, take out the liver, parboil it, and keepit for the stuffing; some are very fond of it. Do not use it if it benot quite fresh and good. Some mince it, and send it up as a garnish inlittle hillocks round the dish. Wipe the hare quite dry, rub the insidewith pepper, and hang it up in a dry, cool place. 

Paunch and skin[141-*] your hare, wash it, and lay it in a large pan ofcold water four or five hours, changing the water two or three times;lay it in a clean cloth, and dry it well, then truss it. 

To make the stuffing, see No. 379. Do not make it too thin; it should beof cohesive consistence: if it is not sufficiently stiff, it is good fornothing. Put this into the belly, and sew it up tight. 

Cut the neck-skin to let the blood out, or it will never appear to bedone enough; spit it, and baste it with drippings, [141-+] (or the juicesof the back will be dried up before the upper joints of the legs arehalf done, ) till you think it is nearly done, which a middling-sizedhare will be in about an hour and a quarter. When it is almost roastedenough, put a little bit of butter into your basting-ladle, and baste itwith this, and flour it, and froth it nicely. 

Serve it with good gravy (No. 329, or No. 347), and currant-jelly. Foranother stuffing, see receipt No. 379. Some cooks cut off the head anddivide it, and lay one half on each side the hare. 

Cold roast hare will make excellent soup (No. 241), chopped to pieces, and stewed in three quarts of water for a couple of hours; the stuffingwill be a very agreeable substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning. Seereceipt for hare soup (No. 241), hashed hare (No. 529), and mock hare, next receipt. 

_Mock Hare. _--(No. 66. *)

Cut out the fillet (_i. E. _ the inside lean) of a sirloin of beef, leaving the fat to roast with the joint. Prepare some nice stuffing, asdirected for a hare in No. 66, or 379; put this on the beef, and roll itup with tape, put a skewer through it, and tie that on a spit. 

_Obs. _ If the beef is of prime quality, has been kept till thoroughlytender, and you serve with it the accompaniments that usually attendroast hare (Nos. 329, 344, &c. ), or stew it, and serve it with a richthickened sauce garnished with forcemeat balls (No. 379), the mostfastidious palate will have no reason to regret that the game season isover. 

To make this into hare soup, see No. 241. 

_Rabbit. _--(No. 67. )

If your fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a young, andforty a full-grown rabbit. 

When you lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge it lightly andcarefully with flour, that you may have it frothy, and of a fine lightbrown. While the rabbit is roasting, boil its liver[142-*] with someparsley; when tender, chop them together, and put half the mixture intosome melted butter, reserving the other half for garnish, divided intolittle hillocks. Cut off the head, and lay half on each side of thedish. 

_Obs. _ A fine, well-grown (but young) warren rabbit, kept some timeafter it has been killed, and roasted with a stuffing in its belly, eatsvery like a hare, to the nature of which it approaches. It is nice, nourishing food when young, but hard and unwholesome when old. Forsauces, Nos. 287, 298, and 329. 

_Pheasant. _--(No. 68. )

Requires a smart fire, but not a fierce one. Thirty minutes will roast ayoung bird, and forty or fifty a full-grown pheasant. Pick and draw it, cut a slit in the back of the neck, and take out the craw, but don’t cutthe head off; wipe the inside of the bird with a clean cloth, twist thelegs close to the body, leave the feet on, but cut the toes off; don’tturn the head under the wing, but truss it like a fowl, it is mucheasier to carve; baste it, butter and froth it, and prepare sauce for it(Nos. 321 and 329). See the instructions in receipts to roast fowls andturkeys, Nos. 57 and 58. 

_Obs. _ We believe the rarity of this bird is its best recommendation;and the character given it by an ingenious French author is just as goodas it deserves. “Its flesh is naturally tough, and owes all itstenderness and succulence to the long time it is kept before it iscooked;” until it is “_bien mortifiée_, ” it is uneatable[142-+]. Therefore, instead of “_sus per col_, ” suspend it by one of the longtail-feathers, and the pheasant’s falling from it is the criterion ofits ripeness and readiness for the spit. 

Our president of the committee of taste (who is indefatigable in hisendeavours to improve the health, as well as promote the enjoyment, ofhis fellow-students in the school of good living, and to whom theepicure, the economist, and the valetudinarian are equally indebted forhis careful revision of this work, and especially for introducing thatsalutary maxim into the kitchen, that “the salubrious is ever a superiorconsideration to the savoury, ” and indeed, the rational epicure onlyrelishes the latter when entirely subordinate to the former), hassuggested to us, that the detachment of the feather cannot take placeuntil the body of the bird has advanced more than one degree beyond thestate of wholesome _haut-goût_, and become “_trop mortifiée_;” and thatto enjoy this game in perfection, you must have a brace of birds killedthe same day; these are to be put in suspense as above directed, andwhen one of them _drops_, the hour is come that the spit should beintroduced to his companion:--

 “_Ultra citraque nequit consistere rectum. _”

_Mock Pheasant. _--(No. 69. )

If you have only one pheasant, and wish for a companion for it, get afine young fowl, of as near as may be the same size as the bird to bematched, and make game of it by trussing it like a pheasant, anddressing it according to the above directions. Few persons will discoverthe pheasant from the fowl, especially if the latter has been kept fouror five days. 

The peculiar flavour of the pheasant (like that of other game) isprincipally acquired by long keeping. 

_Guinea and Pea Fowls_, --(No. 69*. )

Are dressed in the same way as pheasants. 

_Partridges_, --(No. 70. )

Are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a pheasant (but theridiculous custom of tucking the legs into each other makes them verytroublesome to carve); the breast is so plump, it will require almost asmuch roasting; send up with them rich sauce (No. 321*), or bread sauce(No. 321), and good gravy (No. 329). 

⁂ If you wish to preserve them longer than you think they will keepgood undressed, half roast them, they will then keep two or three dayslonger; or make a pie of them. 

_Black Cock_ (No. 71), _Moor Game_ (No. 72), _and Grouse_, (No. 73. )

Are all to be dressed like partridges; the black cock will take as muchas a pheasant, and moor game and grouse as the partridge. Send up withthem currant-jelly and fried bread-crumbs (No. 320). 

_Wild Ducks. _--(No. 74. )

For roasting a wild duck, you must have a clear, brisk fire, and a hotspit; it must be browned upon the outside, without being sodden within. To have it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. Prepare thefire by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid down, andfifteen or twenty minutes will do it in the fashionable way; but if youlike it a little more done, allow it a few minutes longer; if it is toomuch, it will lose its flavour. 

For the sauce, see No. 338 and No. 62. 

_Widgeons and Teal_, --(No. 75. )

Are dressed exactly as the wild duck; only that less time is requisitefor a widgeon, and still less for a teal. 

_Woodcock. _--(No. 76. )

Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of “_hautgoût_” considered a “_bonne bouche_;” truss their legs close to thebody, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, close to the body, andtie them on a small bird spit; put them to roast at a clear fire; cut asmany slices of bread as you have birds, toast or fry them a delicatebrown, and lay them in the dripping-pan under the birds to catch thetrail;[144-*] baste them with butter, and froth them with flour; laythe toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the toast; pour some good beefgravy into the dish, and send some up in a boat, see _Obs. _ to No. 329:twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish with slices of lemon. 

_Obs. _--Some epicures like this bird very much under-done, and directthat a woodcock should be just introduced to the cook, for her to showit the fire, and then send it up to table. 

_Snipes_, --(No. 77. )

Differ little from woodcocks, unless in size; they are to be dressed inthe same way, but require about five minutes less time to roast them. 

For sauce, see No. 338. 

_Pigeons. _--(No. 78. )

When the pigeons are ready for roasting, if you are desired to stuffthem, chop some green parsley very fine, the liver, and a bit of buttertogether, with a little pepper and salt, or with the stuffing orderedfor a fillet of veal (No. 374 or No. 375), and fill the belly of eachbird with it. They will be done enough in about twenty or thirtyminutes; send up parsley and butter (No. 261, ) in the dish under them, and some in a boat, and garnish with crisp parsley (No. 318), or friedbread crumbs (No. 320), or bread sauce (No. 321), or gravy (No. 329). 

_Obs. _--When pigeons are fresh they have their full relish; but it goesentirely off with a very little keeping; nor is it in any way so wellpreserved as by roasting them: when they are put into a pie they aregenerally baked to rags, and taste more of pepper and salt than of anything else. 

A little melted butter may be put into the dish with them, and the gravythat runs from them will mix with it into fine sauce. Pigeons are in thegreatest perfection from midsummer to Michaelmas; there is then the mostplentiful and best food for them; and their finest growth is just whenthey are full feathered. When they are in the pen-feathers, they areflabby; when they are full grown, and have flown some time, they aretough. Game and poultry are best when they have just done growing, _i. E. _ as soon as nature has perfected her work. 

This was the secret of Solomon, the famous pigeon-feeder of TurnhamGreen, who is celebrated by the poet Gay, when he says, “That Turnham Green, which dainty pigeons fed, But feeds no more, for _Solomon_ is dead. ”

_Larks and other small Birds. _--(No. 80. )

These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When theyare picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them; brush them with the yelk ofan egg, and then roll them in bread-crumbs: spit them on a lark-spit, and tie that on to a larger spit; ten or fifteen minutes at a quick firewill do them enough; baste them with fresh butter while they areroasting, and sprinkle them with bread-crumbs till they are well coveredwith them. 

For the sauce, fry some grated bread in clarified butter, see No. 259, and set it to drain before the fire, that it may harden: serve thecrumbs under the larks when you dish them, and garnish them with slicesof lemon. 

_Wheatears_, --(No. 81. )

Are dressed in the same way as larks. 

_Lobster. _--(No. 82. )

See receipt for boiling (No. 176). 

We give no receipt for roasting lobster, tongue, &c. Being of opinionwith Dr. King, who says, “By roasting that which our forefathers boiled, And boiling what they roasted, much is spoiled. ”

FOOTNOTES:

[122-*] This joint is said to owe its _name_ to king Charles the Second, who, dining upon a loin of beef, and being particularly pleased with it, asked the name of the joint; said for its merit it should be _knighted_, and henceforth called _Sir-Loin_. 

[123-*] “In the present _fashion_ of FATTENING CATTLE, it is moredesirable to roast away the fat than to preserve it. If the honourablesocieties of agriculturists, at the time they consulted a learnedprofessor about the composition of manures, had consulted some competentauthority on the nature of animal substances, the public might haveescaped the overgrown corpulency of the animal flesh, which every wherefills the markets. ”--_Domestic Management_, 12mo. 1813, p. 182. 

“Game, and other wild animals proper for food, are of very superiorqualities to the tame, from the total contrast of the circumstancesattending them. They have a free range of exercise in the open air, andchoose their own food, the good effects of which are very evident in ashort, delicate texture of flesh, found only in them. Their juices andflavour are more pure, and their _fat_, when it is in any degree, as invenison, and some other instances, differs as much from that of our_fatted_ animals, as silver and gold from the grosser metals. Thesuperiority of WELCH MUTTON and SCOTCH BEEF is owing to a similarcause. ”--_Ibid. _, p. 150. 

If there is more FAT than you think will be eaten with the meat; cut itoff; it will make an excellent PUDDING (No. 554); or clarify it, (No. 84) and use it for frying: for those who like their meat donethoroughly, and use a moderate fire for roasting, the fat need not becovered with paper. 

_If your beef is large_, and your family small, cut off the thin end andsalt it, and cut out and dress the fillet (_i. E. _ commonly called theinside) next day as MOCK HARE (No. 66*): thus you get _three good hotdinners_. See also No. 483, on made dishes. For SAUCE _for cold beef_, see No. 359, cucumber vinegar, No. 399, and horseradish vinegar, Nos. 399* and 458. 

[123-+] “This joint is often spoiled for the next day’s use, by aninjudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside, take thebrown off, and help the next: by the cutting it only on one side, youpreserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly appearance also; bycutting it, on the contrary, down the middle of this joint, all thegravy runs out, it becomes dry, and exhibits a most unseemly aspect whenbrought to table a second time. ”--From UDE’S _Cookery_, 8vo. 1818, p. 109. 

[124-*] DEAN SWIFT’S _receipt to roast mutton_. 

To GEMINIANI’S beautiful air--“_Gently touch the warbling lyre_. ”

 “Gently stir and blow the fire, Lay the mutton down to roast, Dress it quickly, I desire, In the dripping put a toast, That I hunger may remove;-- Mutton is the meat I love. 

 “On the dresser see it lie; Oh! the charming white and red! Finer meat ne’er met the eye, On the sweetest grass it fed; Let the jack go swiftly round, Let me have it nicely brown’d. 

 “On the table spread the cloth, Let the knives be sharp and clean, Pickles get and salad both, Let them each be fresh and green. With small beer, good ale, and wine, O, ye gods! how I shall dine!”

[124-+] See the chapter of ADVICE TO COOKS. 

[125-*] _Common cooks very seldom brown the ends of necks and loins_; tohave this done nicely, let the fire be a few inches longer at each endthan the joint that is roasting, and occasionally place the spitslanting, so that each end may get sufficient fire; otherwise, after themeat is done, you must take it up, and put the ends before the fire. 

[127-*] To MINCE or HASH VEAL see No. 511, or 511*, and to make a RAGOUTof cold veal, No. 512. 

[131-*] _Priscilla Haslehurst_, in her _Housekeeper’s Instructor_, 8vo. Sheffield, 1819, p. 19, gives us a receipt “to goosify a shoulder oflamb. ” “Un grand Cuisinier, ” informed me that “_to lambify_” the leg ofa porkling is a favourite metamorphosis in the French kitchen, whenhouse lamb is very dear. 

[133-*] MONS. GRIMOD designates this “_Animal modeste, ennemi du faste, et le roi des animaux immondes_. ” Maitland, in p. 758, of vol. Ii. Ofhis _History of London_, reckons that the number of _sucking-pigs_consumed in the city of London in the year 1725, amounted to 52, 000. 

[133-+] Some _delicately sensitive_ palates desire the cook to _parboil_the sage and onions (before they are cut), to soften and take off therawness of their flavour; the older and drier the onion, the strongerwill be its flavour; and the learned EVELYN orders these to be_edulcorated_ by gentle maceration. 

[133-++] An ancient culinary sage says, “When you see a pig’s eyes dropout, you may be satisfied he has had enough of the fire!” This is nocriterion that the body of the pig is done enough, but arises merelyfrom the briskness of the fire before the head of it. 

[137-*] If you think the flavour of raw onions too strong, cut them inslices, and lay them in cold water for a couple of hours, or add as muchapple or potato as you have of onion. 

[137-+] Although the whole is rather too luscious for the lingual nervesof the good folks of Great Britain, the livers of poultry are considereda very high relish by our continental neighbours; and the followingdirections how to procure them in perfection, we copy from the recipe of“_un Vieil Amateur de Bonne Chère_. ”

“The liver of a duck, or a goose, which has submitted to the rules andorders that men of taste have invented for the amusement of hissebaceous glands, is a superlative exquisite to the palate of a Parisianepicure; but, alas! the poor goose, to produce this darling dainty, mustendure sad torments. He must be crammed with meat, deprived of drink, and kept constantly before a hot fire: a miserable martyrdom indeed! andwould be truly intolerable if his reflections on the consequences of hissufferings did not afford him some consolation; but the gloriousprospect of the delightful growth of his liver gives him courage andsupport; and when he thinks how speedily it will become almost as big ashis body, how high it will rank on the list of double relishes, and withwhat ecstasies it will be eaten by the fanciers “_des Foies gras_, ” hesubmits to his destiny without a sigh. The famous _Strasburg pies_ aremade with livers thus prepared, and sell for an enormous price. ”

However incredible this _ordonnance_ for the obesitation of a goose’sliver may appear at first sight, will it not seem equally so toafter-ages, that in this enlightened country, in 1821, we encouraged afolly as much greater, as its operation was more universal? Will it bebelieved, that it was then considered the _acme_ of perfection in beefand mutton, that it should be so _over_-fattened, that a poor man, toobtain one pound of meat that he could eat, must purchase another whichhe could not, unless converted into a suet pudding: moreover, that thehighest premiums were annually awarded to those who produced sheep andoxen in the most extreme stale of _morbid obesity_?!!

 ----“expensive plans For deluging of dripping-pans. ”

[141-*] This, in culinary technicals, is called _casing_ it upon thesame principle that “eating, drinking, and sleeping, ” are termed_non-naturals_. 

[141-+] Mrs. Charlotte Mason, in her “_Complete System of Cookery_, ”page 283, says, she has “tried all the different things recommended tobaste a hare with, and never found any thing so good as _small beer_;”others order _milk_; drippings we believe is better than any thing. Toroast a hare nicely, so as to preserve the meat on the back, &c. Juicyand nutritive, requires as much attention as a sucking-pig. 

Instead of washing, a “_grand Cuisinier_” says, it is much better towipe a hare with a thin, dry cloth, as so much washing, or indeedwashing at all, takes away the flavour. 

[142-*] Liver sauce, Nos. 287 and 288. 

[142-+] “They are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from thebill, which is commonly about 6 or 7 days after they have been killed, otherwise it will have no more savour than a common fowl. ”--_Ude’sCookery_, 8vo. 1819, page 216. 

“Gastronomers, who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste ingame, properly kept, had better abstain from this bird, since it isworse than a common fowl, if not waited for till it acquires the _fumet_it ought to have. Whole republics of maggots have often been foundrioting under the wings of pheasants; but being _radically_ dispersed, and the birds properly washed with vinegar, every thing went right, andevery guest, unconscious of the culinary ablutions, enjoyed theexcellent flavour of the Phasian birds. ”--_Tabella Cibaria_, p. 55. 

[144-*] “This bird has so insinuated itself into the favour of _refinedgourmands_, that they pay it the same honours as the grand Lama, makinga ragoût of its excrements, and devouring them with ecstasy. ”--Vide_Almanach des Gourmands_, vol. I. P. 56. 

That exercise produces strength and firmness of fibre is excellentlywell exemplified in the _woodcock_ and the _partridge_. The former fliesmost--the latter walks; the wing of the woodcock is always verytough, --of the partridge very tender hence the old doggerel distich, --

 “If the _partridge_ had but the _woodcock’s_ thigh, He’d be the best bird that e’er doth fly. ”

The _breast_ of all birds is the most juicy and nutritious part. 

FRYING. 

_To clarify Drippings. _--(No. 83. )

PUT your dripping into a clean sauce-pan over a stove or slow fire; whenit is just going to boil, skim it well, let it boil, and then let itstand till it is a little cooled; then pour it through a sieve into apan. 

_Obs. _--Well-cleansed drippings, [147-*] and the fat skimmings[147-+] ofthe broth-pot, when fresh and sweet, will baste every thing as well asbutter, except game and poultry, and should supply the place of butterfor common fries, &c. ; for which they are equal to lard, especially ifyou repeat the clarifying twice over. 

N. B. If you keep it in a cool place, you may preserve it a fortnight insummer, and longer in winter. When you have done frying, let thedripping stand a few minutes to settle, and then pour it through a sieveinto a clean basin or stone pan, and it will do a second and a thirdtime as well as it did the first; only the fat you have fried fish inmust not be used for any other purpose. 

_To clarify Suet to fry with. _--(No. 84. )

Cut beef or mutton suet into thin slices, pick out all the veins andskins, &c. , put it into a thick and well-tinned sauce-pan, and set itover a very slow stove, or in an oven, till it is melted; you must nothurry it; if not done very slowly it will acquire a burnt taste, whichyou cannot get rid of; then strain it through a hair-sieve into a cleanbrown pan: when quite cold, tie a paper over it, and keep it for use. Hog’s lard is prepared in the same way. 

_Obs. _--The waste occasioned by the present absurd fashion ofover-feeding cattle till the fat is nearly equal to the lean, may, bygood management, be in some measure prevented, by cutting off thesuperfluous part, and preparing it as above, or by making it intopuddings; see Nos. 551 and 554, or soup, No. 229. 

_Steaks. _--(No. 85. )

Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling. Put some butter, or No. 83, into an iron frying-pan, and when it is hot, lay in the steaks, andkeep turning them till they are done enough. For sauce, see No. 356, andfor the accompaniments, No. 94. 

_Obs. _ Unless the fire be prepared on purpose, we like this way ofcooking them; the gravy is preserved, and the meat is more equallydressed, and more evenly browned; which makes it more relishing, andinvites the eye to encourage the appetite. 

_Beef-steaks and Onions. _--(No. 86. See also No. 501. )

Fry the steaks according to the directions given in the precedingreceipt; and have ready for them some onions prepared as directed in No. 299. 

For stewed rump-steaks, see Nos. 500 and 501. 

_Sausages_, --(No. 87. )

Are best when quite fresh made. Put a bit of butter, or dripping (No. 83), into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted (before it getshot) put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keepturning them (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing); frythem over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides;when they are done, lay them on a hair-sieve, placed before the fire fora couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of fryingsausages is, to let them get hot very gradually; they then will notburst, if they are not stale. 

The common practice to prevent their bursting, is to prick them with afork; but this lets the gravy out. 

You may froth them by rubbing them with cold fresh butter, and lightlydredge them with flour, and put them in a cheese-toaster or Dutch ovenfor a minute. 

Some over-economical cooks insist that no butter or lard, &c. Isrequired, their own fat being sufficient to fry them: we have tried it;the sausages were partially scorched, and had that piebald appearancethat all fried things have when sufficient fat is not allowed. 

_Obs. _ Poached eggs (No. 548), pease-pudding (No. 555), and mashedpotatoes (No. 106) are agreeable accompaniments to sausages; andsausages are as welcome with boiled or roasted poultry or veal, orboiled tripe (No. 18); so are ready-dressed German sausages (see _Mem. _to No. 13); and a convenient, easily digestible, and invigorating foodfor the aged, and those whose teeth are defective; as is also No. 503. For sauce No. 356; to make mustard, Nos. 369 and 370. 

N. B. Sausages, when finely chopped, are a delicate “_bonne bouche_;” andrequire very little assistance from the teeth to render them quite readyfor the stomach. 

_Sweetbreads full-dressed. _--(No. 88. )

Parboil them, and let them get cold; then cut them in pieces, aboutthree-quarters of an inch thick; dip them in the yelk of an egg, then infine bread-crumbs (some add spice, lemon-peel, and sweet herbs); putsome clean dripping (No. 83) into a frying-pan: when it boils, put inthe sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For garnish, crisp parsley;and for sauce, mushroom catchup and melted butter, or anchovy sauce, orNos. 356, 343, or 343*, or bacon or ham, as Nos. 526 and 527. 

_Sweetbreads plain. _--(No. 89. )

Parboil and slice them as before, dry them on a clean cloth, flour them, and fry them a delicate brown; take care to drain the fat well fromthem, and garnish them with slices of lemon, and sprigs of chervil orparsley, or crisp parsley (No. 318). For sauce, No. 356, or No. 307, andslices of ham or bacon, as No. 526, or No. 527, or forcemeat balls madeas Nos. 375 and 378. 

⁂ Take care to have a fresh sweetbread; it spoils sooner than almostany thing, therefore should be parboiled as soon as it comes in. This iscalled blanching, or setting it; mutton kidneys (No. 95) are sometimesbroiled and sent up with sweetbreads. 

_Veal Cutlets. _--(No. 90 and No. 521. )

Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick; trim them, and flattenthem with a cleaver; you may fry them in fresh butter, or good drippings(No. 83); when brown on one side, turn them and do the other; if thefire is very fierce, they must change sides oftener. The time they willtake depends on the thickness of the cutlet and the heat of the fire;half an inch thick will take about fifteen minutes. Make some gravy, byputting the trimmings into a stew-pan with a little soft water, anonion, a roll of lemon-peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme andparsley, and a bay leaf; stew over a slow fire an hour, then strain it;put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it is melted, mixwith it as much flour as will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a fewminutes, then add the gravy by degrees till it is all mixed, boil it forfive minutes, and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put it to thecutlets; you may add some browning (No. 322), mushroom (No. 439), orwalnut catchup, or lemon pickle, &c. : see also sauces, Nos. 343 and 348. _Or_, Cut the veal into pieces about as big as a crown-piece, beat them with acleaver, dip them in eggs beat up with a little salt, and then in finebread-crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling lard; serve under themsome good gravy or mushroom sauce (No. 307), which may be made in fiveminutes. Garnish with slices of ham or rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and527), or pork sausages (No. 87). 

_Obs. _ Veal forcemeat or stuffing (Nos. 374, 375, and 378), porksausages (No. 87), rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), are veryrelishing accompaniments, fried and sent up in the form of balls orcakes, and laid round as a garnish. 

_Lamb, or Mutton Chops_, --(No. 92. )

Are dressed in the same way, and garnished with crisp parsley (No. 318)and slices of lemon. 

If they are bread-crumbed and covered with buttered writing-paper, andthen broiled, they are called “maintenon cutlets. ”

_Pork Chops. _--(No. 93. )

Cut the chops about half an inch thick; trim them neatly (few cooks haveany idea how much credit they get by this); put a frying-pan on thefire, with a bit of butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning them often till brown all over, they will be done enough inabout fifteen minutes; take one upon a plate and try it; if done, season it with a little finely-minced onion, powdered sage, and pepperand salt. For gravy and sauce, see Nos. 300, 304, 341, and 356. 

_Obs. _ A little powdered sage, &c. Strewed over them, will give them anice relish, or the savoury powder in No. 51, or forcemeat sausages likeNo. 378. 

Do not have them cut too thick, about three chops to an inch and aquarter; trim them neatly, beat them flat, have ready some sweet herbs, or sage and onion chopped fine, put them in a stew-pan with a bit ofbutter about as big as a walnut, let them have one fry, beat two eggs ona plate with a little salt, add to them the herbs, mix it all welltogether, dip the chops in one at a time all over, and then withbread-crumbs fry them in hot lard or drippings till they are a lightbrown. 

_Obs. _ Veal, lamb, or mutton chops, are very good dressed in likemanner. 

To fry fish, see No. 145. 

N. B. To fry eggs and omelets, and other things, see No. 545, and theIndex. 

FOOTNOTES:

[147-*] MRS. MELROE, in her _Economical Cookery_, page 7, tells us, shehas ascertained from actual experiments, that “the _drippings_ of roastmeat, combined with wheat flour, oatmeal, barley, pease, orpotato-starch, will make delicious soup, agreeable and savoury to thepalate, and nutritive and serviceable to the stomach; and that while ajoint is roasting, good soup may be made from the drippings of the FAT, which is the _essence of meat_, as seeds are of vegetables, andimpregnates SOUP _with the identical taste of meat_. ”

“Writers on cookery give strict directions to carefully _skim off thefat_, and in the next sentence order butter (a much more expensivearticle) to be added: instead of this, when any fat appears at the topof your soup or stew, _do not skim it_ off, but unite it with the brothby means of the vegetable mucilages, flour, oatmeal, ground barley, orpotato-starch; when suspended the soup is equally agreeable to thepalate nutritive to the stomach, ” &c. 

“Cooks bestow a great deal of pains to make gravies; they stew and boillean meat for hours, and, after all, their cookery tastes more of pepperand salt than any thing else. If they would add the bulk of a chesnut ofsolid fat to a common-sized sauce-boatful of gravy, it will give it moresapidity than twenty hours’ stewing lean meat would, unless a largerquantity was used than is warranted by the rules of frugality. ” See Nos. 205 and 229. 

“The experiments of _Dr. Stark_ on the nourishing powers of differentsubstances, go very far to prove that three ounces of the fat of boiledbeef are equal to a pound of the lean. _Dr. Pages_, the traveller, confirms this opinion: ‘Being obliged, ’ says he, ‘during the journeyfrom North to South America by land, to live solely on animal food, Iexperienced the truth of what is observed by hunters, who live solely onanimal food, viz. That besides their receiving little nourishment fromthe leaner parts of it, it soon becomes offensive to the taste; whereasthe fat is both more nutritive, and continues to be agreeable to thepalate. To many stomachs fat is unpleasant and indigestible, especiallywhen converted into oil by heat; this may be easily prevented, by thesimple process of combining the fat completely with water, by theintervention of vegetable mucilage, as in melting butter, by means offlour, the butter and water are united into a homogeneous fluid. ’”--From_Practical Economy, by a Physician_. Callow, 1801. 

[147-+] See note at the foot of No. 201. 

BROILING. 

_Chops or Steaks. _[151-*]--(No. 94. )

To stew them, see No. 500, ditto with onions, No. 501. 

Those who are nice about steaks, never attempt to have them, except inweather which permits the meat to be hung till it is tender, and givethe butcher some days’ notice of their wish for them. 

If, friendly reader, you wish to entertain your mouth with a superlativebeef-steak, you must have the inside of the sirloin cut into steaks. Thenext best steaks are those cut from the middle of a rump, that has beenkilled at least four days in moderate weather, and much longer in coldweather, when they can be cut about six inches long, four inches wide, and half an inch thick: do not beat them, which vulgar trick breaks thecells in which the gravy of the meat is contained, and it becomes dryand tasteless. 

N. B. If your butcher sends steaks which are not tender, we do not insistthat you should object to let him be beaten. 

Desire the butcher to cut them of even thickness; if he does not, dividethe thicker from the thinner pieces, and give them time accordingly. 

Take care to have a very clear, brisk fire; throw a little salt on it;make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fat fromdropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It requires more practiceand care than is generally supposed to do steaks to a nicety; and forwant of these little attentions, this very common dish, which every bodyis supposed capable of dressing, seldom comes to table in perfection. 

Ask those you cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly done; andwhat accompaniments they like best; it is usual to put a table-spoonfulof catchup (No. 439), or a little minced eschalot, or No. 402, into adish before the fire; while you are broiling, turn the steak, &c. With apair of steak-tongs, it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes;rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with pickles andfinely-scraped horse-radish. Nos. 135, 278, 299, 255, 402, 423, 439, and356, are the sauces usually composed for chops and steaks. 

N. B. Macbeth’s receipt for beef-steaks is the best--

 ----“_when ’t is done, ’t were well If ’t were done quickly. _”

_Obs. _ “_Le véritable_ BIFTECK, _comme il se fait en Angleterre_, ” asMons. Beauvilliers calls (in his _l’Art du Cuisinier_, tom. I. 8vo. Paris, 1814, p. 122) what he says we call “_romesteck_, ” is as highlyesteemed by our French neighbours, as their “_ragoûts_” are by ourcountrymen, who

 ----“post to Paris go, Merely to taste their soups, and mushrooms know. ”

 KING’S _Art of Cookery_, p. 79. 

These lines were written before the establishment of Albion house, Aldersgate Street, where every luxury that nature and art produce isserved of the primest quality, and in the most scientific manner, in astyle of princely magnificence and perfect comfort: the wines, liqueurs, &c. Are superlative, and every department of the business of thebanquet is conducted in the most liberal manner. 

The French author whom we have before so often quoted, assures _lesamateurs de bonne chère_ on the other side of the water, it is wellworth their while to cross the channel to taste this favourite Englishdish, which, when “_mortifiée à son point_” and well dressed, he says, is superior to most of the subtle double relishes of the Parisiankitchen. _Almanach des Gourmands_, vol. I. P. 27. 

Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal food, and isentitled to the same rank among solid, that brandy is among liquidstimuli. 

The celebrated TRAINER, Sir Thomas Parkyns, of Bunny Park, Bart. , in hisbook on _Wrestling_, 4to. 3d edit. 1727, p. 10, &c. , greatly prefersbeef-eaters to sheep-biters, as he called those who ate mutton. 

When Humphries the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, the keeper ofIpswich jail, he was at first fed on beef, but got so much flesh, it waschanged for mutton, roasted or broiled: when broiled, great part of thenutritive juices of the meat is extracted. 

The principles upon which training[153-*] is conducted, resolvethemselves into temperance without abstemiousness, and exercise withoutfatigue. 

_Kidneys. _--(No. 95. )

Cut them through the long way, score them, sprinkle a little pepper andsalt on them, and run a wire skewer through them to keep them fromcurling on the gridiron, so that they may be evenly broiled. 

Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often till they aredone; they will take about ten or twelve minutes, if the fire is brisk:or fry them in butter, and make gravy for them in the pan (after youhave taken out the kidneys), by putting in a tea-spoonful of flour; assoon as it looks brown, put in as much water as will make gravy; theywill take five minutes more to fry than to broil. For sauce, Nos. 318, 355, and 356. 

_Obs. _ Some cooks chop a few parsley-leaves very fine, and mix them witha bit of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and put a little ofthis mixture on each kidney. 

_A Fowl or Rabbit, &c. _--(No. 97. )

We can only recommend this method of dressing when the fire is not goodenough for roasting. 

Pick and truss it the same as for boiling, cut it open down the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth, season it with a little pepper andsalt, have a clear fire, and set the gridiron at a good distance overit, lay the chicken on with the inside towards the fire (you may egg itand strew some grated bread over it), and broil it till it is a finebrown: take care the fleshy side is not burned. Lay it on a hot dish;pickled mushrooms, or mushroom sauce (No. 305), thrown over it, orparsley and butter (No. 261), or melted butter flavoured with mushroomcatchup (No. 307). 

Garnish it with slices of lemon; and the liver and gizzard slit andnotched, seasoned with pepper and salt, and broiled nicely brown, withsome slices of lemon. For grill sauce, see No. 355. 

N. B. “It was a great mode, and taken up by the court party in OliverCromwell’s time, to roast half capons, pretending they had a moreexquisite taste and nutriment than when dressed whole. ” See JOANCROMWELL’S _Kitchen_, London, 1664, page 39. 

_Pigeons_, --(No. 98. )

To be worth the trouble of picking, must be well grown, and well fed. 

Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil them over a clear, slowfire; turn them often, and put a little butter on them: when they aredone, pour over them, either stewed (No. 305) or pickled mushrooms, orcatchup and melted butter (No. 307, or No. 348 or 355). 

Garnish with fried bread-crumbs or sippets (No. 319): or, when thepigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a cleaver, takingcare not to break the skin of the backs or breasts. Season them withpepper and salt, a little bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of water, and tie them close at both ends; so that when they are brought to table, they bring their sauce with them. Egg and dredge them well with gratedbread (mixed with spice and sweet herbs, if you please); then lay themon the gridiron, and turn them frequently: if your fire is not veryclear, lay them on a sheet of paper well buttered, to keep them fromgetting smoked. They are much better broiled whole. 

The same sauce as in the preceding receipt, or No. 343 or 348. 

VEAL CUTLETS (No. 521 and No. 90). PORK CHOPS (No. 93). 

FOOTNOTES:

[151-*] The season for these is from the 29th of _September_ to the 25thof _March_; to ensure their being tender when out of season, STEW THEMas in receipt No. 500. 

TO WARM UP COLD RUMP-STEAKS. 

Lay them in a stew-pan, with one large onion cut in quarters, sixberries of allspice, the same of black pepper, cover the steaks withboiling water, let them stew gently one hour, thicken the liquor withflour and butter rubbed together on a plate; if a pint of gravy, aboutone ounce of flour, and the like weight of butter, will do; put it intothe stew-pan, shake it well over the fire for five minutes, and it isready; lay the steaks and onions on a dish and pour the gravy through asieve over them. 

[153-*] See “THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE, ” by the editorof “THE COOK’S ORACLE. ” Published by G. B. Whittaker, No. 13, Ave-MariaLane. 

VEGETABLES. 

_Sixteen Ways of dressing Potatoes. _[155-*]--(No. 102. )

The vegetable kingdom affords no food more wholesome, more easilyprocured, easily prepared, or less expensive, than the potato: yet, although this most useful vegetable is dressed almost every day, inalmost every family, for one plate of potatoes that comes to table as itshould, ten are spoiled. 

Be careful in your choice of potatoes: no vegetable varies so much incolour, size, shape, consistence, and flavour. 

The reddish-coloured are better than the white, but theyellowish-looking ones are the best. Choose those of a moderate size, free from blemishes, and fresh, and buy them in the mould. They must notbe wetted till they are cleaned to be cooked. Protect them from the airand frost, by laying them in heaps in a cellar, covering them with mats, or burying them in sand or in earth. The action of frost is mostdestructive: if it be considerable, the life of the vegetable isdestroyed, and the potato speedily rots. 

Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Filla sauce-pan half full of potatoes of equal size[155-+] (or make them soby dividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as willcover them about an inch: they are sooner boiled, and more savoury, thanwhen drowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having toolittle water, but potatoes are often spoiled by too much: they mustmerely be covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so thatthey may be just covered at the finish. 

Set them on a moderate fire till they boil; then take them off, and putthem by the side of the fire to simmer slowly till they are soft enoughto admit a fork (place no dependence on the usual test of their skins’cracking, which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to some potatoeswhen they are not half done, and the insides quite hard). Then pour thewater off (if you let the potatoes remain in the water a moment afterthey are done enough, they will become waxy and watery), uncover thesauce-pan, and set it at such a distance from the fire as will secure itfrom burning; their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and thepotatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy. 

You may afterward place a napkin, folded up to the size of thesauce-pan’s diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy tillwanted. 

_Obs. _--This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal tosteaming them; and they are dressed in half the time. 

There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, thatit is impossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way isto try them with a fork. Moderate-sized potatoes will generally be doneenough in fifteen or twenty minutes. See _Obs. _ to No. 106. 

_Cold Potatoes fried. _--(No. 102*. )

Put a bit of clean dripping into a frying-pan: when it is melted, slicein your potatoes with a little pepper and salt; put them on the fire;keep stirring them: when they are quite hot, they are ready. 

_Obs. _--This is a very good way of re-dressing potatoes, or see No. 106. 

_Potatoes boiled and broiled. _--(No. 103. )

Dress your potatoes as before directed, and put them on a gridiron overa very clear and brisk fire: turn them till they are brown all over, andsend them up dry, with melted butter in a cup. 

_Potatoes fried in Slices or Shavings. _--(No. 104. )

Peel large potatoes; slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, or cutthem in shavings round and round, as you would peel a lemon; dry themwell in a clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care thatyour fat and frying-pan are quite clean; put it on a quick fire, watchit, and as soon as the lard boils, and is still, put in the slices ofpotato, and keep moving them till they are crisp. Take them up, and laythem to drain on a sieve: send them up with a very little salt sprinkledover them. 

_Potatoes fried whole. _--(No. 105. )

When nearly boiled enough, as directed in No. 102, put them into astew-pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef-drippings; shakethem about often (for fear of burning them), till they are brown andcrisp; drain them from the fat. 

_Obs. _--It will be an elegant improvement to the last three receipts, previous to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour them and dip themin the yelk of an egg, and then roll them in fine-sifted bread-crumbs;they will then deserve to be called POTATOES FULL DRESSED. 

_Potatoes mashed. _--(No. 106. See also No. 112. )

When your potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain them quite dry, pick outevery speck, &c. , and while hot, rub them through a colander into aclean stew-pan. To a pound of potatoes put about half an ounce ofbutter, and a table-spoonful of milk: do not make them too moist; mixthem well together. 

_Obs. _--After Lady-day, when the potatoes are getting old and specky, and in frosty weather, this is the best way of dressing them. You mayput them into shapes or small tea-cups; egg them with yelk of egg, andbrown them very slightly before a slow fire. See No. 108. 

_Potatoes mashed with Onions. _--(No. 107. )

Prepare some boiled onions by putting them through a sieve, and mix themwith potatoes. In proportioning the onions to the potatoes, you will beguided by your wish to have more or less of their flavour. 

_Obs. _--See note under No. 555. 

_Potatoes escalloped. _--(No. 108. )

Mash potatoes as directed in No. 106; then butter some nice cleanscollop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups or saucers; put in yourpotatoes; make them smooth at the top; cross a knife over them; strew afew fine bread-crumbs on them; sprinkle them with a paste-brush with afew drops of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven; when theyare browned on the top, take them carefully out of the shells and brownthe other side. 

_Colcannon. _--(No. 108*. )

Boil potatoes and greens, or spinage, separately; mash the potatoes;squeeze the greens dry; chop them quite fine, and mix them with thepotatoes, with a little butter, pepper, and salt; put it into a mould, buttering it well first; let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. 

_Potatoes roasted. _--(No. 109. )

Wash and dry your potatoes (all of a size), and put them in a tin Dutchoven, or cheese-toaster: take care not to put them too near the fire, orthey will get burned on the outside before they are warmed through. 

Large potatoes will require two hours to roast them. 

N. B. To save time and trouble, some cooks half boil them first. 

This is one of the best opportunities the BAKER has to rival the cook. 

_Potatoes roasted under Meat. _--(No. 110. )

Half boil large potatoes, drain the water from them, and put them intoan earthen dish, or small tin pan, under meat that is roasting, andbaste them with some of the dripping: when they are browned on one side, turn them and brown the other; send them up round the meat, or in asmall dish. 

_Potato Balls. _--(No. 111. )

Mix mashed potatoes with the yelk of an egg; roll them into balls; flourthem, or egg and bread-crumb them; and fry them in clean drippings, orbrown them in a Dutch oven. 

_Potato Balls Ragoût_, --(No. 112. )

Are made by adding to a pound of potatoes a quarter of a pound of gratedham, or some sweet herbs, or chopped parsley, an onion or eschalot, salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, or other spice, with the yelkof a couple of eggs: they are then to be dressed as No. 111. 

_Obs. _--An agreeable vegetable relish, and a good supper-dish. 

_Potato Snow. _--(No. 114. )

The potatoes must be free from spots, and the whitest you can pick out;put them on in cold water; when they begin to crack strain the waterfrom them, and put them into a clean stew-pan by the side of the firetill they are quite dry, and fall to pieces; rub them through a wiresieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb themafterward. 

_Potato Pie. _--(No. 115. )

Peel and slice your potatoes very thin into a pie-dish; between eachlayer of potatoes put a little chopped onion (three-quarters of an ounceof onion is sufficient for a pound of potatoes); between each layersprinkle a little pepper and salt; put in a little water, and cut abouttwo ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and lay them on the top:cover it close with puff paste. It will take about an hour and a half tobake it. 

N. B. The yelks of four eggs (boiled hard) may be added; and when baked, a table-spoonful of good mushroom catchup poured in through a funnel. 

_Obs. _--Cauliflowers divided into mouthfuls, and button onions, seasonedwith curry powder, &c. Make a favourite vegetable pie. 

_New Potatoes. _--(No. 116. )

The best way to clean new potatoes is to rub them with a coarse cloth orflannel, a or scrubbing-brush, and proceed as in No. 102. 

N. B. New potatoes are poor, watery, and insipid, till they are full twoinches in diameter: they are not worth the trouble of boiling beforemidsummer day. 

_Obs. _--Some cooks prepare sauces to pour over potatoes, made withbutter, salt, and pepper, or gravy, or melted butter and catchup; orstew the potatoes in ale, or water seasoned with pepper and salt; orbake them with herrings or sprats, mixed with layers of potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, sweet herbs, vinegar, and water; or cutmutton or beef into slices, and lay them in a stew-pan, and on thempotatoes and spices, then another layer of the meat alternately, pouringin a little water, covering it up very close, and slewing slowly. 

Potato mucilage (a good substitute for arrow-root), No. 448. [159-*]

_Jerusalem Artichokes_, --(No. 117. )

Are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have just before directedfor potatoes. 

N. B. They should be covered with thick melted butter, or a nice white orbrown sauce. 

_Cabbage. _--(No. 118. )

Pick cabbages very clean, and wash them thoroughly; then look them overcarefully again; quarter them if they are very large. Put them into asauce-pan with plenty of boiling water; if any scum rises, take it off;put a large spoonful of salt into the sauce-pan, and boil them till thestalks feel tender. A young cabbage will take about twenty minutes orhalf an hour; when full grown, near an hour: see that they are wellcovered with water all the time, and that no smoke or dirt arises fromstirring the fire. With careful management, they will look as beautifulwhen dressed as they did when growing. 

_Obs. _--Some cooks say, that it will much ameliorate the flavour ofstrong old cabbages to boil them in two waters; _i. E. _ when they arehalf done, to take them out, and put them directly into anothersauce-pan of boiling water, instead of continuing them in the water intowhich they were first put. 

_Boiled Cabbage fried. _--(No. 119. )

See receipt for Bubble and Squeak. 

_Savoys_, --(No. 120. )

Are boiled in the same manner; quarter them when you send them to table. 

_Sprouts and young Greens. _--(No. 121. )

The receipt we have written for cabbages will answer as well forsprouts, only they will be boiled enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. 

_Spinage. _--(No. 122. )

Spinage should be picked a leaf at a time, and washed in three or fourwaters; when perfectly clean, lay it on a sieve or colander, to drainthe water from it. 

Put a sauce-pan on the fire three parts filled with water, and largeenough for the spinage to float in it; put a small handful of salt init; let it boil; skim it, and then put in the spinage; make it boil asquick as possible till quite tender, pressing the spinage downfrequently that it may be done equally; it will be done enough in aboutten minutes, if boiled in plenty of water: if the spinage is a littleold, give it a few minutes longer. When done, strain it on the back of asieve; squeeze it dry with a plate, or between two trenchers; chop itfine, and put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter and a little salt:a little cream is a great improvement, or instead of either some richgravy. Spread it in a dish, and score it into squares of proper size tohelp at table. 

_Obs. _--Grated nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon-juice, is a favouriteaddition with some cooks, and is added when you stir it up in thestew-pan with the butter garnished. Spinage is frequently served withpoached eggs and fried bread. 

_Asparagus. _--(No. 123. )

Set a stew-pan with plenty of water in it on the fire; sprinkle ahandful of salt in it; let it boil, and skim it; then put in yourasparagus, prepared thus: scrape all the stalks till they are perfectlyclean; throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them; when theyare all done, tie them up in little bundles, of about a quarter of ahundred each, with bass, if you can get it, or tape (string cuts them topieces); cut off the stalks at the bottom that they may be all of alength, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the greenpart; when they are tender at the stalk, which will be in from twenty tothirty minutes, they are done enough. Great care must be taken to watchthe exact time of their becoming tender; take them up just at thatinstant, and they will have their true flavour and colour: a minute ortwo more boiling destroys both. 

While the asparagus is boiling, toast a round of a quartern loaf, abouthalf an inch thick; brown it delicately on both sides; dip it lightly inthe liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of adish: melt some butter (No. 256); then lay in the asparagus upon thetoast, which must project beyond the asparagus, that the company may seethere is a toast. 

Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a boat, or white sauce(No. 2 of No. 364). 

_Sea Kale_, --(No. 124. )

Is tied up in bundles, and dressed in the same way as asparagus. 

_Cauliflower. _--(No. 125. )

Choose those that are close and white, and of the middle size; trim offthe outside leaves; cut the stalk off flat at the bottom; let them liein salt and water an hour before you boil them. 

Put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in it; skim it well, and let it boil slowly till done, which a small one will be in fifteen, a large one in about twenty minutes; take it up the moment it is enough, a minute or two longer boiling will spoil it. 

N. B. Cold cauliflowers and French beans, carrots and turnips, boiled soas to eat rather crisp, are sometimes dressed as a salad (No. 372 or453). 

_Broccoli. _--(No. 126. )

Set a pan of clean cold water on the table, and a saucepan on the firewith plenty of water, and a handful of salt in it. 

Broccoli is prepared by stripping off all the side shoots, leaving thetop; peel off the skin of the stalk with a knife; cut it close off atthe bottom, and put it into the pan of cold water. 

When the water in the stew-pan boils, and the broccoli is ready, put itin; let it boil briskly till the stalks feel tender, from ten to twentyminutes; take it up with a slice, that you may not break it; let itdrain, and serve up. 

If some of the heads of broccoli are much bigger than the others, putthem on to boil first, so that they may get all done together. 

_Obs. _--It makes a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, like asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable, and you must take it up the moment itis done, and send it to table hot. 

_Red Beet-roots_, --(No. 127. )

Are not so much used as they deserve; they are dressed in the same wayas parsnips, only neither scraped nor cut till after they are boiled;they will take from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling, according to their size: to be sent to table with salt fish, boiledbeef, &c. When young, large, and juicy, it is a very good variety, anexcellent garnish, and easily converted into a very cheap and pleasantpickle. 

_Parsnips_, --(No. 128. )

Are to be cooked just in the same manner as carrots. They require moreor less time according to their size; therefore match them in size: andyou must try them by thrusting a fork into them as they are in thewater; when that goes easily through, they are done enough. Boil themfrom an hour to two hours, according to their size and freshness. 

_Obs. _ Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed in the same way as turnips, and some cooks quarter them before they boil them. [163-*]

_Carrots. _--(No. 129. )

Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. An hour is enough foryoung spring carrots; grown carrots must be cut in half, and will takefrom an hour and a half to two hours and a half. When done, rub off thepeels with a clean coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size. The best way to try if they are done enough, isto pierce them with a fork. 

_Obs. _ Many people are fond of cold carrot with cold beef; ask if youshall cook enough for some to be left to send up with the cold meat. 

_Turnips. _--(No. 130. )

Peel off half an inch of the stringy outside. Full-grown turnips willtake about an hour and a half gentle boiling; if you slice them, whichmost people do, they will be done sooner; try them with a fork; whentender, take them up, and lay them on a sieve till the water isthoroughly drained from them. Send them up whole; do not slice them. 

N. B. To very young turnips leave about two inches of the green top. SeeNo. 132. 

_To mash Turnips. _--(No. 131. )

When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze them as dry as possiblebetween two trenchers; put them into a saucepan; mash them with a woodenspoon, and rub them through a colander; add a little bit of butter;keep stirring them till the butter is melted and well mixed with them, and they are ready for table. 

_Turnip-tops_, --(No. 132. )

Are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of the old turnip-roots. Put them into cold water an hour before they are to be dressed; the morewater they are boiled in, the better they will look; if boiled in asmall quantity of water they will taste bitter: when the water boils, put in a small handful of salt, and then your vegetables; if fresh andyoung, they will be done in about twenty minutes; drain them on the backof a sieve. 

_French Beans. _--(No. 133. )

Cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to the point and strip offthe strings. If not quite fresh, have a bowl of spring-water, with alittle salt dissolved in it, standing before you, and as the beans arecleaned and stringed, throw them in. When all are done, put them on thefire in boiling water, with some salt in it; after they have boiledfifteen or twenty minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon as theyare tender take them up; throw them into a colander or sieve to drain. 

To send up the beans whole is much the best method when they are thusyoung, and their delicate flavour and colour are much better preserved. When a little more grown, they must be cut across in two afterstringing; and for common tables they are split, and divided across; cutthem all the same length; but those who are nice never have them at sucha growth as to require splitting. 

When they are very large they look pretty cut into lozenges. 

_Obs. _ See N. B. To No. 125. 

_Green Pease. _[164-*]--(No. 134. )

Young green pease, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicaciesof the vegetable kingdom. They must be young; it is equallyindispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as theyare shelled for they soon lose both their colour and sweetness. 

If you wish to feast upon pease in perfection, you must have themgathered the same day they are dressed, and put on to boil within halfan hour after they are shelled. 

Pass them through a riddle, _i. E. _ a coarse sieve, which is made forthe purpose of separating them. This precaution is necessary, for largeand small pease cannot be boiled together, as the former will take moretime than the latter. 

For a peck of pease, set on a sauce-pan with a gallon of water in it;when it boils, put in your pease, with a table-spoonful of salt; skim itwell, keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes, accordingto their age and size. The best way to judge of their being done enough, and indeed the only way to make sure of cooking them to, and not beyond, the point of perfection, or, as pea-eaters say, of “boiling them to abubble, ” is to take them out with a spoon and taste them. 

When they are done enough, drain them on a hair-sieve. If you like thembuttered, put them into a pie-dish, divide some butter into small bits, and lay them on the pease; put another dish over them, and turn themover and over; this will melt the butter through them; but as all peopledo not like buttered pease, you had better send them to table plain, asthey come out of the sauce-pan, with melted butter (No. 256) in asauce-tureen. It is usual to boil some mint with the pease; but if youwish to garnish the pease with mint, boil a few sprigs in a sauce-pan bythemselves. See Sage and Onion Sauce (No. 300), and Pea Powder (No. 458); to boil Bacon (No. 13), Slices of Ham and Bacon (No. 526), andRelishing Rashers of Bacon (No. 527). 

N. B. A peck of young pease will not yield more than enough for a coupleof hearty pea-eaters; when the pods are full, it may serve for three. 

MEM. Never think of purchasing pease ready-shelled, for the cogentreasons assigned in the first part of this receipt. 

_Cucumbers stewed. _--(No. 135. )

Peel and cut cucumbers in quarters, take out the seeds, and lay them ona cloth to drain off the water: when they are dry, flour and fry them infresh butter; let the butter be quite hot before you put in thecucumbers; fry them till they are brown, then take them out with anegg-slice, and lay them on a sieve to drain the fat from them (somecooks fry sliced onions, or some small button onions, with them, tillthey are a delicate light-brown colour, drain them from the fat, andthen put them into a stew-pan with as much gravy as will cover them):stew slowly till they are tender; take out the cucumbers with a slice, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, give it a boil up, season itwith pepper and salt, and put in the cucumbers; as soon as they arewarm, they are ready. 

The above, rubbed through a tamis, or fine sieve, will be entitled to becalled “cucumber sauce. ” See No. 399, Cucumber Vinegar. This is a veryfavourite sauce with lamb or mutton-cutlets, stewed rump-steaks, &c. &c. : when made for the latter, a third part of sliced onion is sometimesfried with the cucumber. [166-*]

_Artichokes. _--(No. 136. )

Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty ofboiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently tillthey are tender, which will take an hour and a half, or two hours: thesurest way to know when they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf;trim them and drain them on a sieve; and send up melted butter withthem, which some put into small cups, so that each guest may have one. 

_Stewed Onions. _--(No. 137. )

The large Portugal onions are the best: take off the top-coats of half adozen of these (taking care not to cut off the tops or tails too near, or the onions will go to pieces), and put them into a stew-pan broadenough to hold them without laying them atop of one another, and justcover them with good broth. 

Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about two hours; when youdish them, turn them upside down, and pour the sauce over. 

Young onions stewed, see No. 296. 

_Salads. _--(No. 138*, _also_ No. 372). 

Those who desire to see this subject elaborately illustrated, we referto “EVELYN’S _Acetaria_, ” a discourse of Sallets, a 12mo. Of 240 pages. London, 1699. 

Mr. E. Gives us “an account of seventy-two herbs proper and fit to makesallet with;” and a table of thirty-five, telling their seasons andproportions. “In the composure of a sallet, every plant should come into bear its part, like the notes in music: thus the comical Master Cookintroduced by Damoxenus, when asked, ‘what harmony there was in meats?’‘the very same, ’ says he, ‘as the 3d, 5th, and 8th have to one anotherin music: the main skill lies in this, not to mingle’ (‘_sapores minimèconsentientes_’). ‘Tastes not well joined, inelegant, ’ as our Paradisianbard directs Eve, when dressing a sallet for her angelical guest, inMILTON’S _Paradise Lost_. ”

He gives the following receipt for the oxoleon:--

“Take of clear and perfectly good oyl-olive three parts; of sharpestvinegar (sweetest of all condiments, for it incites appetite, and causeshunger, which is the best sauce), limon, or juice of orange, one part;and therein let steep some slices of horseradish, with a little salt. Some, in a separate vinegar, gently bruise a pod of Ginny pepper, andstrain it to the other; then add as much mustard as will lie upon ahalf-crown piece. Beat and mingle these well together with the yelk oftwo new-laid eggs boiled hard, and pour it over your sallet, stirring itwell together. The super-curious insist that the knife with which salletherb is cut must be of silver. Some who are husbands of their oyl, pourat first the oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse itsslipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the acids, whichthey pour on last of all; and it is incredible how small a quantity ofoyl thus applied is sufficient to imbue a very plentiful assembly ofsallet herbs. ”

_Obs. _ Our own directions to prepare and dress salads will be foundunder No. 372. 

FOOTNOTES:

[155-*] “Next to bread, there is no vegetable article, the preparationof which, as food, deserves to be more attended to, than thepotato. ”--Sir JOHN SINCLAIR’S _Code of Health_, vol. I. P. 354. 

“By the _analysis of potato_, it appears that 16 ounces contained 11-1/2ounces of water, and the 4-1/2 ounces of solid parts remaining, affordedscarce a drachm of earth. ”--PARMENTIER’S _Obs. On Nutritive Vegetables_, 8vo. 1783, p. 112. 

[155-+] Or the small ones will be done to pieces before the large onesare boiled enough. 

[159-*] Sweet potatoes, otherwise called Carolina potatoes, are theroots of the _Convolvulus batatas_, a plant peculiar to and principallycultivated in America. It delights in a warm climate, but is raised inConnecticut, New-York, and all the states of the Union south ofNew-York. It is an excellent vegetable for the dinner-table, and isbrought on boiled. It has an advantage over common potatoes, as it maybe eaten cold; and it is sometimes cut into thin slices and brought tothe tea-table, as a delicate relish, owing to its agreeable nutritioussweetness. A. 

[163-*] After parsnips are boiled, they should be put into thefrying-pan and browned a little. Some people do not admire thisvegetable, on account of its sickish sweetness. It is, however, awholesome, cheap, and nourishing vegetable, best calculated for thetable in winter and spring. Its sweetness may be modified by mashingwith a few potatoes. A. 

[164-*] These, and all other fruits and vegetables, &c. , by Mr. APPERT’Splan, it is said, may be preserved for twelve months. See APPERT’S_Book_, 12mo. 1812. We have eaten of several specimens of preservedpease, which looked pretty enough, --but _flavour_ they had none at all. 

[166-*] Cucumbers may be cut into quarters and boiled like asparagus, and served up with toasted bread and melted butter. This is a mostdelicate way of preparing cucumbers for the dinner-table, and they are amost luscious article, and so rich and savoury that a small quantitywill suffice. 

The ordinary method of cutting cucumbers into slices with raw onions, served up in vinegar, and seasoned with salt and pepper, is most vulgarand most unwholesome. In their season they are cheap and plenty; and asthey are crude and unripe they require the stomach of an ostrich todigest them. They cause much sickness in their season, creatingcholeras, cramps, and dysenteries. If stewed or boiled as abovedirected, they would be more nutritious and wholesome. A. 

_FISH. _

See _Obs. _ on Codfish after No. 149. 

_Turbot to boil. _--(No. 140). 

This excellent fish is in season the greatest part of the summer; whengood, it is at once firm and tender, and abounds with rich gelatinousnutriment. 

Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be quite fresh, by rubbing itlightly with salt, and keeping it in a cold place, you may in moderateweather preserve it for a couple of days. [168-*]

An hour or two before you dress it, soak it in spring-water with somesalt in it, then score the skin across the thickest part of the back, toprevent its breaking on the breast, which will happen from the fishswelling, and cracking the skin, if this precaution be not used. Put alarge handful of salt into a fish-kettle with cold water, lay your fishon a fish-strainer, put it in, and when it is coming to a boil, skim itwell; then set the kettle on the side of the fire, to boil as gently aspossible for about fifteen or twenty minutes (if it boils fast, the fishwill break to pieces); supposing it a middling-sized turbot, and toweigh eight or nine pounds. 

Rub a little of the inside red coral spawn of the lobster through a hairsieve, without butter; and when the turbot is dished, sprinkle the spawnover it. Garnish the dish with sprigs of curled parsley, sliced lemon, and finely-scraped horseradish. 

If you like to send it to table in full dress, surround it withnicely-fried smelts (No. 173), gudgeons are often used for this purpose, and may be bought very cheap when smelts are very dear; lay the largestopposite the broadest part of the turbot, so that they may form awell-proportioned fringe for it; or oysters (No. 183*); or cut a sole instrips, crossways, about the size of a smelt; fry them as directed inNo. 145, and lay them round. Send up lobster sauce (No. 284); two boatsof it, if it is for a large party. 

N. B. Cold turbot, with No. 372 for sauce; or take off the fillets thatare left as soon as the turbot returns from table, and they will make aside dish for your next dinner, warmed in No. 364--2. 

_Obs. _ The thickest part is the favourite; and the carver of this fishmust remember to ask his friends if they are fin-fanciers. It will savea troublesome job to the carver, if the cook, when the fish is boiled, cuts the spine-bone across the middle. 

_A Brill_, --(No. 143. )

Is dressed the same way as a turbot. 

_Soles to boil. _--(No. 144. )

A fine, fresh, thick sole is almost as good eating as a turbot. 

Wash and clean it nicely; put it into a fish-kettle with a handful ofsalt, and as much cold water as will cover it; set it on the side of thefire, take off the scum as it rises, and let it boil gently; about fiveminutes (according to its size) will be long enough, unless it be verylarge. Send it up on a fish-drainer, garnished with slices of lemon andsprigs of curled parsley, or nicely-fried smelts (No. 173), or oysters(No. 183). 

_Obs. _ Slices of lemon are a universally acceptable garnish with eitherfried or broiled fish: a few sprigs of crisp parsley may be added, ifyou wish to make it look very smart; and parsley, or fennel and butter, are excellent sauces (see Nos. 261 and 265), or chervil sauce (No. 264), anchovy (No. 270). 

N. B. Boiled soles are very good warmed up like eels, Wiggy’s way (No. 164), or covered with white sauce (No. 364--2; and see No. 158). 

_Soles, or other Fish, to fry. _--(No. 145. )

Soles are generally to be procured good from some part of the coast, assome are going out of season, and some coming in, both at the same time;a great many are brought in well-boats alive, that are caught off Doverand Folkstone, and some are brought from the same places byland-carriage. The finest soles are caught off Plymouth, near theEddystone, and all the way up the channel, and to Torbay; and frequentlyweigh eight or ten pounds per pair: they are generally brought by waterto Portsmouth, and thence by land; but the greatest quantity are caughtoff Yarmouth and the Knole, and off the Forelands. 

Be sure they are quite fresh, or the cleverest cook cannot make themeither look or eat well. 

An hour before you intend to dress them, wash them thoroughly, and wrapthem in a clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or the bread-crumbswill not stick to them. 

Prepare some bread-crumbs, [170-*] by rubbing some stale bread through acolander; or, if you wish the fish to appear very delicate andhighly-finished, through a hair-sieve; or use biscuit powder. 

Beat the yelk and white of an egg well together, on a plate, with afork; flour your fish, to absorb any moisture that may remain, and wipeit off with a clean cloth; dip them in the egg on both sides all over, or, what is better, egg them with a paste-brush; put the egg on in aneven degree over the whole fish, or the bread-crumbs will not stick toit even, and the uneven part will burn to the pan. Strew thebread-crumbs all over the fish, so that they cover every part, take upthe fish by the head, and shake off the loose crumbs. The fish is nowready for the frying-pan. 

Put a quart or more of fresh sweet olive-oil, or clarified butter (No. 259), dripping (No. 83), lard, [170-+] or clarified drippings (No. 83);be sure they are quite sweet and perfectly clean (the fat ought to coverthe fish): what we here order is for soles about ten inches long; iflarger, cut them into pieces the proper size to help at table; this willsave much time and trouble to the carver: when you send them to table, lay them in the same form they were before they were cut, and you maystrew a little curled parsley over them: they are much easier managed inthe frying-pan, and require less fat: fry the thick part a few minutesbefore you put in the thin, you can by this means only fry the thickpart enough, without frying the thin too much. Very large soles shouldbe boiled (No. 144), or fried in fillets (No. 147). Soles cut in pieces, crossways, about the size of a smelt, make a very pretty garnish forstewed fish and boiled fish. 

Set the frying-pan over a sharp and clear fire; watch it, skim it withan egg-slice, and when it boils, [170-++] _i. E. _ when it has donebubbling, and the smoke just begins to rise from the surface, put in thefish: if the fat is not extremely hot, it is impossible to fry fish of agood colour, or to keep them firm and crisp. (Read the 3d chapter ofthe Rudiments of Cookery. )

The best way to ascertain the heat of the fat, is to try it with a bitof bread as big as a nut; if it is quite hot enough, the bread willbrown immediately. Put in the fish, and it will be crisp and brown onthe side next the fire, in about four or five minutes; to turn it, sticka two-pronged fork near the head, and support the tail with afish-slice, and fry the other side nearly the same length of time. 

Fry one sole at a time, except the pan is very large, and you haveplenty of fat. 

When the fish are fried, lay them on a soft cloth (old tablecloths arebest), near enough the fire to keep them warm; turn them every two orthree minutes, till they are quite dry on both sides; this common cookscommonly neglect. It will take ten or fifteen minutes, [171-*] if the fatyou fried them in was not hot enough; when it is, they want very littledrying. When soles are fried, they will keep very good in a dry placefor three or four days; warm them by hanging them on the hooks in aDutch oven, letting them heat very gradually, by putting it somedistance from the fire for about twenty minutes, or in good gravy, aseels, Wiggy’s way (Nos. 164, 299, 337, or 356). 

_Obs. _ There are several general rules in this receipt which apply toall fried fish: we have been very particular and minute in ourdirections; for, although a fried sole is so frequent and favourite adish, it is very seldom brought to table in perfection. [171-+]

_Soles to stew. _--(No. 146. )

These are half fried, and then done the same as eels, Wiggy’s way. SeeNo. 164. 

_Fillets of Soles, brown or white. _--(No. 147. )

Take off the fillets very nicely, trim them neatly, and press them drybetween a soft cloth; egg, crumb, and fry them, &c. As directed in No. 145, or boil them, and serve them with No. 364--2. 

N. B. This is one of the best ways of dressing very large soles. See alsoNo. 164. 

_Skate_, [172-*]--(No. 148. )

Is very good when in good season, but no fish so bad when it isotherwise: those persons that like it firm and dry, should have itcrimped; but those that like it tender, should have it plain, and eat itnot earlier than the second day, and if cold weather, three or four daysold it is better: it cannot be kept too long, if perfectly sweet. Youngskate eats very fine crimped and fried. See No. 154. 

_Cod boiled. _--(No. 149. )

Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little salt in the inside of it (ifthe weather is very cold, a large cod is the better for being kept aday): put plenty of water in your fish-kettle, so that the fish may bewell covered; put in a large handful of salt; and when it is dissolved, put in your fish; a very small fish will require from fifteen to twentyminutes after the water boils, a large one about half an hour; drain iton the fish-plate; dish it with a garnish of the roe, liver, chitterlings, &c. Or large native oysters, fried a light brown (see No. 183*), or smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), the tail[172-+] of thecod cut in slices, or bits the size and shape of oysters, or split it, and fry it. Scolloped oysters (No. 182), oyster sauce (No. 278), slicesof cod cut about half an inch thick, and fried as soles (No. 145), arevery nice. 

MEM. --The SOUNDS (the jelly parts about the jowl), the palate, and thetongue are esteemed exquisites by piscivorous epicures, whose longingeyes will keep a sharp look-out for a share of their favourite “_bonnebouche_:” the carver’s reputation depends much on his equitabledistribution of them. [173-*]

_Salt Fish boiled. _--(No. 150. )

Salt fish requires soaking, according to the time it has been in salt;trust not to those you buy it of, but taste a bit of one of the flakes;that which is hard and dry requires two nights’ soaking, changing thewater two or three times; the intermediate day, lay it on a stone floor:for barrelled cod less time will do; and for the best Dogger-bank splitfish, which has not been more than a fortnight or three weeks in salt, still less will be needful. 

Put it into plenty of cold water, and let it simmer very gently till itis enough; if the water boils, the fish will be tough andthready. [173-+] For egg sauce, see No. 267; and to boil red beet-root, No. 127; parsnips, No. 128; Carrots, No. 129. Garnish salt fish with theyelks of eggs cut into quarters. 

_Obs. _--Our favourite vegetable accompaniment is a dish of equal partsof red beet-root and parsnips. 

N. B. Salted fish differs in quality quite as much as it does in price. 

_Slices of Cod boiled. _--(No. 151. )

Half an hour before you dress them, put them into cold spring-water withsome salt in it. 

Lay them at the bottom of a fish-kettle, with as much cold spring-wateras will cover them, and some salt; set it on a quick fire, and when itboils, skim it, and set it on one side of the fire to boil very gently, for about ten minutes, according to its size and thickness. Garnish withscraped horseradish, slices of lemon, and a slice of the liver on oneside, and chitterling on the other. Oyster sauce (No. 278), and plainbutter. 

_Obs. _--Slices of cod (especially the tail, split) are very good, friedlike soles (No. 145), or stewed in gravy like eels (No. 164, or No. 364--2). [174-*]

_Fresh Sturgeon. _--(No. 152. )

The best mode of dressing this, is to have it cut in thin slices likeveal cutlets, and broiled, and rubbed over with a bit of butter and alittle pepper, and served very hot, and eaten with a squeeze oflemon-juice. Great care, however, must be taken to cut off the skinbefore it is broiled, as the oil in the skin, if burned, imparts adisgusting flavour to the fish. The flesh is very fine, and comes nearerto veal, perhaps, than even turtle. 

Sturgeon is frequently plentiful and reasonable in the London shops. Weprefer this mode of dressing it to the more savoury one of stewing it inrich gravy, like carp, &c. Which overpowers the peculiar flavour of thefish. [174-+]

_Whitings fried. _--(No. 153. )

Skin[174-++] them, preserve the liver (see No. 228), and fasten theirtails to their mouths; dip them in egg, then in bread-crumbs, and frythem in hot lard (read No. 145), or split them, and fry them likefillets of soles (No. 147). 

A three-quart stew-pan, half full of fat, is the best utensil to frywhitings. They will be done enough in about five minutes; but it willsometimes require a quarter of an hour to drain the fat from them anddry them (if the fat you put them into was not hot enough), turning themnow and then with a fish-slice. 

_Obs. _--When whitings are scarce, the fishmongers can skin and trussyoung codlings, so that you can hardly tell the difference, except thata codling wears a beard, and a whiting does not: this distinguishingmark is sometimes cut off; however, if you turn up his jowl, you may seethe mark where the beard was, and thus discover whether he be a realwhiting, or a shaved codling. 

_Skate fried. _--(No. 154. )

After you have cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets; dry them on aclean cloth; beat the yelk and white of an egg thoroughly together, dipthe fish in this, and then in fine bread-crumbs; fry it in hot lard ordrippings till it is of a delicate brown colour; lay it on a hair-sieveto drain; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 318), and some like capersauce, with an anchovy in it. 

_Plaice or Flounders, fried or boiled. _--(No. 155. )

Flounders are perhaps the most difficult fish to fry very nicely. Cleanthem well, flour them, and wipe them with a dry cloth to absorb all thewater from them; flour or egg and bread-crumb them, &c. As directed inNo. 145. 

_To boil Flounders. _

Wash and clean them well, cut the black side of them the same as you doturbot, then put them into a fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water anda handful of salt; when they come to a boil, skim them clean, and letthem stand by the side of the fire for five minutes, and they are ready. 

_Obs. _--Eaten with plain melted butter and a little salt, you have thesweet delicate flavour of the flounder, which is overpowered by anysauce. 

_Water Souchy_, [175-*]--(No. 156. )

Is made with flounders, whitings, gudgeons, or eels. These must bequite fresh, and very nicely cleaned; for what they are boiled in, isthe sauce for them. 

Wash, gut, and trim your fish, cut them into handsome pieces, and putthem into a stew-pan with just as much water as will cover them, withsome parsley, or parsley-roots sliced, an onion minced fine, and alittle pepper and salt (to this some cooks add some scraped horseradishand a bay leaf); skim it carefully when it boils; when your fish is doneenough (which it will be in a few minutes), send it up in a deep dish, lined with bread sippets, and some slices of bread and butter on aplate. 

_Obs. _--Some cooks thicken the liquor the fish has been stewing in withflour and butter, and flavour it with white wine, lemon-juice, essenceof anchovy, and catchup; and boil down two or three flounders, &c. Tomake a fish broth to boil the other fish in, observing, that the brothcannot be good unless the fish are boiled too much. 

_Haddock boiled. _--(No. 157. )

Wash it well, and put it on to boil, as directed in No. 149; a haddockof three pounds will take about ten minutes after the kettle boils. 

Haddocks, salted a day or two, are eaten with egg sauce, or cut infillets, and fried. Or, if small, very well broiled, or baked, with apudding in their belly, and some good gravy. 

_Obs. _ A piscivorous epicure protests that “Haddock is the poorest fishthat swims, and has neither the delicacy of the whiting, nor thejuicyness of the cod. ”[176-*]

_Findhorn Haddocks. _--(No. 157*. )

Let the fish be well cleaned, and laid in salt for two hours; let thewater drain from them, and then wet them with the pyroligneous acid;they may be split or not: they are then to be hung in a dry situationfor a day or two, or a week or two, if you please; when broiled, theyhave all the flavour of the Findhorn haddock, and will keep sweet for along time. 

The pyroligneous acid, applied in the same way to beef or mutton, givesthe fine smoke flavour, and may be kept for a considerable length oftime. 

_Scotch way of dressing haddocks. _--A haddock is quite like a differentfish in London and in Edinburgh, which arises chiefly from the mannerin which they are treated: a haddock should never appear at table withits head and skin on. For boiling, they are all the better for lying anight in salt; of course they do not take so long to boil without theskin, and require to be well skimmed to preserve the colour. After lyingin salt for a night, if you hang them up for a day or two, they are verygood broiled and served with cold butter. For frying, they should besplit and boned very carefully, and divided into convenient pieces, iftoo large to halve merely; egg and crumb them, and fry in a good deal oflard; they resemble soles when dressed in this manner. There is anothervery delicate mode of dressing them; you split the fish, rub it wellwith butter, and do it before the fire in a Dutch oven. 

_To stew Cod’s Skull, Sole, Carp, Trout, Perch, Eel, or Flounder. _--No. 158. (See also No. 164. )

When the fish has been properly washed, lay it in a stew-pan, with halfa pint of claret or port wine, and a quart of good gravy (No. 329); alarge onion, a dozen berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, anda few cloves, or a bit of mace: cover the fish-kettle close, and let itstew gently for ten or twenty minutes, according to the thickness of thefish: take the fish up, lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, and thickenthe liquor it was stewed in with a little flour, and season it withpepper, salt, essence of anchovy, mushroom catchup, and a little Chilivinegar; when it has boiled ten minutes, strain it through a tamis, andpour it over the fish: if there is more sauce than the dish will hold, send the rest up in a boat. 

The river trout comes into season in April, and continues till July; itis a delicious fish; those caught near Uxbridge come to town quitealive. 

The eels and perch from the same water are very fine. 

_Obs. _--These fish are very nice plain boiled, with No. 261, or No. 264, for sauce; some cooks dredge them with flour, and fry them a light brownbefore they put them on to stew, and stuff them with No. 374, or some ofthe stuffings following. 

_To dress them maigre. _

Put the fish into a stew-pan, with a large onion, four cloves, fifteenberries of allspice, and the same of black pepper; just cover them withboiling water, set it where they will simmer gently for ten or twentyminutes, according to the size of the fish; strain off the liquor inanother stew-pan, leaving the fish to keep warm till the sauce is ready. 

Rub together on a plate as much flour and butter as will make the sauceas thick as a double cream. Each pint of sauce season with a glass ofwine, half as much mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful of essence ofanchovy, and a few grains of Cayenne; let it boil a few minutes, put thefish on a deep dish, strain the gravy over it; garnish it with sippetsof bread toasted or fried (No. 319). 

N. B. The editor has paid particular attention to the above receipt, andalso to No. 224, which Catholics, and those whose religious tenets donot allow them to eat meat on maigre days, will find a very satisfactorysubstitute for the meat gravy soup (No. 200). 

For sauce for maigre dishes, see Nos. 225, 305, and 364--2. 

_Obs. _ Mushroom catchup (No. 439) and onions (No. 402) supply the placeof meat better than any thing; if you have not these, wine, spice (No. 457), curry powder (No. 455), aromatic roots and herbs, anchovy and soy, or oyster catchup (No. 441), variously combined, and thickened withflour and butter, are convenient substitutes. 

_Maigre Fish Pies. _

Salt-fish pie. The thickest part must be chosen, and put in cold waterto soak the night before wanted; then boil it well, take it up, takeaway the bones and skin, and if it is good fish it will be in finelayers; set it on a fish-drainer to get cold: in the mean time, boilfour eggs hard, peel and slice them very thin, the same quantity ofonion sliced thin; line the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat(No. 383), or a layer of potatoes sliced thin, then a layer of onions, then of fish, and of eggs, and so on till the dish is full; season eachlayer with a little pepper, then mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard, thesame of essence of anchovy, a little mushroom catchup, in a gill ofwater, put it in the dish, then put on the top an ounce of fresh butterbroke in bits; cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour. 

Fresh cod may be done in the same way, by adding a little salt. 

All fish for making pies, whether soles, flounders, herrings, salmon, lobster, eels, trout, tench, &c. Should be dressed first; this is themost economical way for Catholic families, as what is boiled one daywill make excellent pies or patties the next. 

If you intend it for pies, take the skin off, and the bones out; layyour salmon, soles, turbot, or codfish, in layers, and season each layerwith equal quantities of pepper, allspice, mace, and salt, till the dishis full. Save a little of the liquor that the fish was boiled in; set iton the fire with the bones and skin of the fish, boil it a quarter of anhour, then strain it through a sieve, let it settle, and pour it in thedish; cover it with puff-paste; bake it about an hour and a quarter. Shrimps, prawns, or oysters added, will improve the above; if forpatties, they must be cut in small pieces, and dressed in a bechamelsauce (No. 364). 

Cod-sounds for a pie should be soaked at least twenty-four hours, thenwell washed, and put on a cloth to dry. Put in a stew-pan two ounces offresh butter, with four ounces of sliced onions; fry them of a nicebrown, then put in a small table-spoonful of flour, and add half a pintof boiling water; when smooth, put in about ten cod-sounds, and seasonthem with a little pepper, a glass of white wine, a tea-spoonful ofessence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon; stir it well together, put it in a pie-dish, cover it with paste, and bake it one hour. 

_Perch, Roach, Dace, Gudgeons, &c. Fried. _--(No. 159. )

Wash the fish well, wipe them on a dry cloth, flour them lightly allover, and fry them ten minutes (No. 145) in hot lard or drippings; laythem on a hair-sieve to drain; send them up on a hot dish, garnishedwith sprigs of green parsley. Anchovy sauce, Nos. 270 and 433. 

_Perch boiled. _[179-*]--(No. 160. )

Clean them carefully, and put them in a fish-kettle, with as much coldspring-water as will cover them, with a handful of salt; set them on aquick fire till they boil; when they boil, set them on one side to boilgently for about ten minutes, according to their size. 

_Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, Mackerel, &c. Pickled. _--(No. 161. )

Cut the fish into proper pieces; do not take off the scales; make abrine strong enough to bear an egg, in which boil the fish; it must beboiled in only just liquor enough to cover it; do not overboil it. Whenthe fish is boiled, lay it slantingly to drain off all the liquor; whencold, pack it close in the kits, and fill them up with equal parts ofthe liquor the salmon was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), andbest vinegar (No. 24); let them rest for a day; fill up again, strikingthe sides of the kit with a cooper’s adze, until the kit will receive nomore; then head them down as close as possible. 

_Obs. _ This is in the finest condition when fresh. Salmon is mostplentiful about midsummer; the season for it is from February toSeptember. Some sprigs of fresh-gathered young fennel are theaccompaniments. 

N. B. The three indispensable marks of the goodness of pickled salmonare, 1st, The brightness of the scales, and their sticking fast to theskin; 2dly, The firmness of the flesh; and, 3dly, Its fine, pale-redrose colour. Without these it is not fit to eat, and was either stalebefore it was pickled, or has been kept too long after. 

The above was given us as the actual practice of those who pickle it forthe London market. 

N. B. Pickled salmon warmed by steam, or in its pickle liquor, is afavourite dish at Newcastle. 

_Salmon[180-*] boiled. _--(No. 162. )

Put on a fish-kettle, with spring-water enough to well cover the salmonyou are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well:(boil the liver in a separate saucepan. ) When the water boils, put in ahandful of salt: take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fishwell washed; put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently. Salmon requires almost as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of anhour to a pound of fish: but practice only can perfect the cook indressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon will take almost as long boilingas half a one: you must consider the thickness, not the weight: tenpounds of fine full-grown salmon will be done in an hour and a quarter. Lobster Sauce, No. 284. 

_Obs. _ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest; and if you have a“grand gourmand” at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin. 

The Thames salmon is preferred in the London market; and some epicurespretend to be able to distinguish by the taste, in which reach of theriver it was caught!!!

N. B. If you have any left, put it into a pie-dish, and cover it with anequal portion of vinegar and pump-water, and a little salt: it will beready in three days. 

_Fresh Salmon broiled. _--(No. 163. )

Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices about an inch and a halfthick; dry it thoroughly in a clean cloth; rub it over with sweet oil, or thick melted butter, and sprinkle a little salt over it: put yourgridiron over a clear fire, at some distance; when it is hot wipe itclean; rub it with sweet oil or lard; lay the salmon on, and when it isdone on one side, turn it gently and broil the other. Anchovy sauce, &c. 

_Obs. _ An oven does them best. 

_Soles or Eels, [181-*] &c. &c. Stewed_ Wiggy’s _way. _--(No. 164. )

Take two pounds of fine silver[181-+] eels: the best are those that arerather more than a half-crown piece in circumference, quite fresh, fullof life, and “as brisk as an eel:” such as have been kept out of watertill they can scarce stir, are good for nothing: gut them, rub them withsalt till the slime is cleaned from them, wash them in several differentwaters, and divide them into pieces about four inches long. 

Some cooks, after skinning them, dredge them with a little flour, wipethem dry, and then egg and crumb them, and fry them in drippings tillthey are brown, and lay them to dry on a hair sieve. 

Have ready a quart of good beef gravy (No. 329); it must be cold whenyou put the eels into it: set them on a slow fire to simmer very gentlyfor about a quarter of an hour, according to the size of the eels; watchthem, that they are not done too much; take them carefully out of thestew-pan with a fish-slice, so as not to tear their coats, and lay themon a dish about two inches deep. 

Or, if for maigre days, when you have skinned your eels, throw the skinsinto salt and water; wash them well; then put them into a stew-pan witha quart of water, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, and oneblade of mace; let it boil twenty minutes, and strain it through a sieveinto a basin. 

Make the sauce about as thick as cream, by mixing a little flour withit; put in also two table-spoonfuls of port wine, and one of mushroomcatchup, or cavice: stir it into the sauce by degrees, give it a boil, and strain it to the fish through a sieve. 

N. B. If mushroom sauce (Nos. 225, 305, or 333), or white sauce (No. 364--2), be used instead of beef gravy, this will be one of the mostrelishing maigre dishes we know. 

_Obs. _ To kill eels instantly, without the horrid torture of cutting andskinning them alive, pierce the spinal marrow, close to the back part ofthe skull, with a sharp-pointed skewer: if this be done in the rightplace, all motion will instantly cease. The humane executioner doescertain criminals the favour to hang them before he breaks them on thewheel. 

_To fry Eels. _--(No. 165. )

Skin and gut them, and wash them well in cold water, cut them in piecesfour inches long, season them with pepper and salt; beat an egg well ona plate, dip them in the egg, and then in fine bread-crumbs; fry them infresh, clean lard; drain them well from the fat; garnish with crispparsley. For sauce, plain and melted butter, sharpened with lemon-juice, or parsley and butter. 

_Spitchocked Eels. _--(No. 166. )

This the French cooks call the English way of dressing eels. 

Take two middling-sized silver eels, leave the skin on, scour them withsalt, and wash them, cut off the heads, slit them on the belly side, and take out the bones and guts, and wash and wipe them nicely; then cutthem into pieces about three inches long, and wipe them quite dry; puttwo ounces of butter into a stew-pan with a little minced parsley, thyme, sage, pepper, and salt, and a very little chopped eschalot; setthe stew-pan over the fire; when the butter is melted, stir theingredients together, and take it off the fire, mix the yelks of twoeggs with them, and dip the eel in, a piece at a time, and then rollthem in bread-crumbs, making as much stick to them as you can; then rubthe gridiron with a bit of suet, set it high over a very clear fire, andbroil your eels of a fine crisp brown. Dish them with crisp parsley, andsend up with plain butter in a boat, and anchovy and butter. 

_Obs. _ We like them better with the skin off; it is very apt to offenddelicate stomachs. 

_Mackerel boiled. _[183-*]--(No. 167. )

This fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and the fresherit is the better. 

Wash and clean them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom do thissufficiently), put them into cold water with a handful of salt in it;let them rather simmer than boil; a small mackerel will be done enoughin about a quarter of an hour; when the eye starts and the tail splits, they are done; do not let them stand in the water a moment after; theyare so delicate that the heat of the water will break them. 

This fish, in London, is rarely fresh enough to appear at table inperfection; and either the mackerel is boiled too much, or theroe[183-+] too little. The best way is to open a slit opposite themiddle of the roe, you can then clean it properly; this will allow thewater access, and the roe will then be done as soon as the fish, whichit seldom is otherwise; some sagacious gourmands insist upon it theymust be taken out and boiled separately. For sauce, see Nos. 263, 265, and 266; and you may garnish them with pats of minced fennel. 

N. B. The common notion is, that mackerel are in best condition whenfullest of roe; however, the fish at that time is only valuable for itsroe, the meat of it has scarcely any flavour. 

Mackerel generally make their appearance off the Land’s End about thebeginning of April; and as the weather gets warm they gradually comeround the coast, and generally arrive off Brighton about May, andcontinue for some months, until they begin to shoot their spawn. 

After they have let go their roes, they are called shotten mackerel, andare not worth catching; the roe, which was all that was good of them, being gone. 

It is in the early season, when they have least roe, that the flesh ofthis fish is in highest perfection. There is also an after-season, whena few fine large mackerel are taken, (_i. E. _ during the herring season, about October, ) which some piscivorous epicures are very partial to;these fish having had time to fatten and recover their health, are fullof high flavour, and their flesh is firm and juicy: they are commonlycalled silver mackerel, from their beautiful appearance, their colourbeing almost as bright when boiled as it was the moment they werecaught. 

_Mackerel broiled. _--(No. 169. )

Clean a fine large mackerel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and cut a long slitdown the back; lay it on a clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire;when it is done on one side, turn it; be careful that it does not burn;send it up with fennel sauce (No. 265); mix well together a littlefinely minced fennel and parsley, seasoned with a little pepper andsalt, a bit of fresh butter, and when the mackerel are ready for thetable, put some of this into each fish. 

_Mackerel baked. _[184-*]--(No. 170. )

Cut off their heads, open them, and take out the roes and clean themthoroughly; rub them on the inside with a little pepper and salt, putthe roes in again, season them (with a mixture of powdered allspice, black pepper, and salt, well rubbed together), and lay them close in abaking-pan, cover them with equal quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie them down with strong white paper doubled, and bake them for anhour in a slow oven. They will keep for a fortnight. 

_Pickled Mackerel, Herrings, or Sprats. _--(No. 171. )

Procure them as fresh as possible, split them, take off the heads, andtrim off the thin part of the belly, put them into salt and water forone hour, drain and wipe your fish, and put them into jars or casks, with the following preparation, which is enough for three dozenmackerel. Take salt and bay-salt, one pound each, saltpetre andlump-sugar, two ounces each; grind and pound the salt, &c. Welltogether, put the fish into jars or casks, with a layer of thepreparation at the bottom, then a layer of mackerel with the skin-sidedownwards, so continue alternately till the cask or jar is full; pressit down and cover it close. In about three months they will be fit foruse. 

_Sprats broiled. _--(No. 170*--_Fried_, see No. 173. )

If you have not a sprat gridiron, get a piece of pointed iron wire asthick as packthread, and as long as your gridiron is broad; run thisthrough the heads of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour and salt overthem, put your gridiron over a clear, quick fire, turn them in about acouple of minutes; when the other side is brown, draw out the wire, andsend up the fish with melted butter in a cup. 

_Obs. _ That sprats are young herrings, is evident by their anatomy, inwhich there is no perceptible difference. They appear very soon afterthe herrings are gone, and seem to be the spawn just vivified. 

_Sprats stewed. _--(No. 170**. )

Wash and dry your sprats, and lay them as level as you can in astew-pan, and between every layer of sprats put three peppercorns, andas many allspice, with a few grains of salt; barely cover them withvinegar, and stew them one hour over a slow fire; they must not boil: abay-leaf is sometimes added. Herrings or mackerel may be stewed the sameway. 

To fry sprats, see No. 173. 

_Herrings broiled. _--(No. 171*. )

Wash them well, then dry them with a cloth, dust them with flour, andbroil them over a slow fire till they are well done. Send up meltedbutter in a boat. 

_Obs. _ For a particular account of herrings, see SOLAS DODD’S _NaturalHist. Of Herrings_, in 178 pages, 8vo. 1752. 

_Red Herrings, and other dried Fish_, --(No. 172. )

“Should be cooked in the same manner as now practised by the poor inScotland. They soak them in water until they become pretty fresh; theyare then hung up in the sun and wind, on a stick through their eyes, todry; and then boiled or broiled. In this way they eat almost as well asif they were new caught. ” See the Hon. JOHN COCHRANE’S _Seaman’s Guide_, 8vo. 1797, p. 34. 

“Scotch haddocks should be soaked all night. You may boil or broil them;if you broil, split them in two. 

“All the different sorts of dried fish, except stock fish, are salted, dried in the sun in prepared kilns, or by the smoke of wood fires, andrequire to be softened and freshened, in proportion to their bulk, nature, or dryness; the very dry sort, as cod, whiting, &c. Should besteeped in lukewarm water, kept as near as possible to an equal degreeof heat. The larger fish should be steeped twelve hours, the smallerabout two; after which they should be taken out and hung up by the tailsuntil they are dressed. The reason for hanging them up is, that theysoften equally as in the steeping, without extracting too much of therelish, which would render them insipid. When thus prepared, the smallfish, as whiting, tusks, &c. Should be floured and laid on the gridiron;and when a little hardened on one side, must be turned and basted withsweet oil upon a feather; and when basted on both sides, and well heatedthrough, taken up. A clear charcoal fire is the best for cooking them, and the fish should be kept at a good distance, to broil gradually. Whenthey are done enough they will swell a little in the basting, and youmust not let them fall again. If boiled, as the larger fish generallyare, they should be kept just simmering over an equal fire, in which wayhalf an hour will do the largest fish, and five minutes the smallest. 

“Dried salmon, though a large fish, does not require more steeping thana whiting; and when laid on the gridiron should be moderately peppered. To herring and to all kinds of broiled salt fish, sweet oil is the bestbasting. ”

The above is from MACDONALD’S _London Family Cook_, 8vo. 1808, p. 139. 

_Obs. _ Dr. Harte, in his Essay on Diet, 1633, fol. P. 91, protests, “ared herring doth nourish little, and is hard of concoction, but verygood to make a cup of good drink relish well, and may be well called‘the drunkard’s delight. ’”

_Smelts, Gudgeons, Sprats, or other small Fish, fried. _--(No. 173. )

Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain, or beat an eggon a plate, dip them in it, and then in very fine bread-crumbs that havebeen rubbed through a sieve; the smaller the fish, the finer should bethe bread-crumbs--biscuit powder is still better; fry them in plenty ofclean lard or drippings; as soon as the lard boils and is still, put inthe fish; when they are delicately browned, they are done; this willhardly take two minutes. Drain them on a hair-sieve, placed before thefire, turning them till quite dry. _Obs. _ Read No. 145. 

“Smelts are allowed to be caught in the Thames, on the first ofNovember, and continue till May. The Thames smelts are the best andsweetest, for two reasons; they are fresher and richer than any otheryou can get: they catch them much more plentiful and larger inLancashire and Norfolk, but not so good: a great many are brought totown from Norfolk, but barely come good, as they are a fish which shouldalways be eaten fresh; indeed, all river fish should be eaten fresh, except salmon, which, unless crimped, eats better the second or thirdday: but all Thames fish, particularly, should be eaten very fresh; nofish eats so bad kept. ”

_Potted Prawns, Shrimps, or Cray-fish. _--(No. 175. )

Boil them in water with plenty of salt in it. When you have picked them, powder them with a little beaten mace, or grated nutmeg, or allspice, and pepper and salt; add a little cold butter, and pound all welltogether in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put itinto pots covered with clarified butter, and cover them over with wettedbladder. 

_Lobster. _[187-*]--(No. 176. )

Buy these alive; the lobster merchants sometimes keep them till they arestarved, before they boil them; they are then watery, have not halftheir flavour, and like other persons that die of a consumption, havelost the calf of their legs. 

Choose those that (as an old cook says, are “heavy and lively, ” and) arefull of motion, which is the index of their freshness. 

Those of the middle size are the best. Never take them when the shell isincrusted, which is a sign they are old. The male lobster is preferredto eat, and the female (on account of the eggs) to make sauce of. Thehen lobster is distinguished by having a broader tail than the male, andless claws. 

Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of a table-spoonful ofsalt to a quart of water; when the water boils, put it in, and keep itboiling briskly from half an hour to an hour, according to its size;wipe all the scum off it, and rub the shell with a very little butter orsweet oil; break off the great claws, crack them carefully in eachjoint, so that they may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily;cut the tail down the middle, and send up the body whole. For sauce, No. 285. To pot lobster, No. 178. 

⁂ These fish come in about April, and continue plentiful till theoyster season returns; after that time they begin to spawn, and seldomopen solid. 

_Crab. _--(No. 177. )

The above observations apply to crabs, which should neither be too smallnor too large. The best size are those which measure about eight inchesacross the shoulders. 

⁂ Crabs appear and disappear about the same time as lobsters. The cromercrabs are most esteemed; but numbers are brought from the Isle of Wight. 

_Potted Lobster or Crab. _[188-*]--(No. 178). 

This must be made with fine hen lobsters, when full of spawn: boil themthoroughly (No. 176); when cold, pick out all the solid meat, and poundit in a mortar: it is usual to add, by degrees, (a very little)finely-pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while pounding, a little butter. When the whole is well mixed, and beat to theconsistence of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, pourclarified butter over it, and cover it with wetted bladder. 

_Obs. _--Some put lobster without pounding it, and only cut it or pull itinto such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce, and mince it with thespawn and soft parts and seasoning, and press it together as close aspossible; in packing it, place the coral and spawn, &c. In layers, sothat it may look regular and handsome when cut out. If you intend it asstore (see N. B. To No. 284, to make sauce with), this is the best way todo it; but if for sandwiches, &c. The first is the best, and will keepmuch longer. 

Dressed or buttered lobsters and crabs, are favourite ornamental disheswith those who deck their table merely to please the eye. Our apologyfor not giving such receipts will be found in _Obs. _ to No. 322. 

_OYSTERS. _[189-*]--(No. 181. )

The common[189-+] Colchester and Feversham oysters are brought to marketon the 5th of August; the Milton, or, as they are commonly called, themelting natives, [189-++] do not come in till the beginning of October, continue in season till the 12th of May, and approach the meridian oftheir perfection about Christmas. 

Some piscivorous gourmands think that oysters are not best when quitefresh from their beds, and that their flavour is too brackish and harsh, and is much ameliorated by giving them a feed. 

To FEED[189-§] oysters. --Cover them with clean water, with a pint ofsalt to about two gallons (nothing else, no oatmeal, flour, nor anyother trumpery); this will cleanse them from the mud and sand, &c. Ofthe bed; after they have lain in it twelve hours, change it for freshsalt and water, and in twelve hours more they will be in prime order forthe mouth, and remain so two or three days: at the time of high wateryou may see them open their shells, in expectation of receiving theirusual food. This process of feeding oysters is only employed when agreat many come up together. 

The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled oysters, that are packed atthe beds, are better without being put in water: they are carefully andtightly packed, and must not be disturbed till wanted for table. These, in moderate weather, will keep good for a week or ten days. 

If an oyster opens his mouth in the barrel, he dies immediately. 

To preserve the lives of barrelled oysters, put a heavy weight on thewooden top of the barrel, which is to be placed on the surface of theoysters. This is to be effected by removing the first hoop; the staveswill then spread and stand erect, making a wide opening for the head ofthe barrel to fall down closely on the remaining fish, keeping themclose together. 

MEM. --The oysters which are commonly sold as barrelled oysters, aremerely the smallest natives, selected from the stock, and put into thetub when ordered; and, instead of being of superior quality, are oftenvery inferior. To immature animals there is the same objection as tounripe vegetables. 

_Obs. _--Common people are indifferent about the manner of openingoysters, and the time of eating them after they are opened; nothing, however, is more important in the enlightened eyes of the experiencedoyster-eater. 

Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmostperfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy inthe under shell; if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavour andspirit are lost. 

The true lover of an oyster will have some regard for the feelings ofhis little favourite, and will never abandon it to the mercy of abungling operator, but will open it himself, and contrive to detach thefish from the shell so dexterously, that the oyster is hardly conscioushe has been ejected from his lodging, till he feels the teeth of thepiscivorous gourmand tickling him to death. 

N. B. Fish is less nutritious than flesh: as a proof, when the trainer ofNewmarket wishes to waste a jockey, he is not allowed meat, nor evenpudding, if fish can be had. The white kinds of fish, turbots, soles, whiting, cod, haddock, flounders, smelts, &c. Are less nutritious thanthe oily, fat fish, such as eels, salmon, herrings, sprats, &c. : thelatter, however, are more difficult to digest, and often disturb weakstomachs, so that they are obliged to call in the assistance of Cayenne, Cognac, &c. 

Shell-fish have long held a high rank in the catalogue of easilydigestible and speedily restorative foods; of these the oyster certainlydeserves the best character, but we think it has acquired not a littlemore reputation for these qualities than it deserves; a well-dressedchop[191-*] or steak, see No. 94, will invigorate the heart in a muchhigher ratio; to recruit the animal spirits, and support strength, thereis nothing equal to animal food; when kept till properly tender, nonewill give so little trouble to the digestive organs, and so muchsubstantial excitement to the constitution. See note under No. 185. 

See Dr. WALLIS and Mr. TYSON’S Papers on men’s feeding on flesh, in_Phil. Trans. _ vol. Xxii. P. 769 to 774; and PORPHYRY on Abstinence fromAnimal Food, translated by Thomas Taylor, 8vo. 1823. 

We could easily say as much in praise of mutton as Mr. Ritson hasagainst it, in his “_Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food, as a MoralDuty_, ” 8vo. London, 1802, p. 102. He says, “The Pagan priests were thefirst eaters of animal food; it corrupted their taste, and so excitedthem to gluttony, that when they had eaten the same thing repeatedly, their luxurious appetites called for variety. He who had devoured thesheep, longed to masticate the shepherd!!!

“Nature seems to have provided other animals for the food of man, fromthe astonishing increase of those which instinct points out to him aspeculiarly desirable for that purpose. For instance; so quick is theproduce of pigeons, that, in the space of four years, 14, 760 may comefrom a single pair; and in the like period, 1, 274, 840 from a couple ofrabbits, this is nothing to the millions of eggs in the milt of acodfish. ”

_Scolloped Oysters. _--(No. 182. ) A good way to warm up any cold fish. 

Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes, take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bitof butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, add as much finebread-crumbs as will dry it up, then put to it the oyster liquor, andgive it a boil up, put the oysters into scollop-shells that you havebuttered, and strewed with bread-crumbs, then a layer of oysters, thenof bread-crumbs, and then some more oysters; moisten it with the oysterliquor, cover them with bread-crumbs, put about half a dozen littlebits of butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven. 

_Obs. _ Essence of anchovy, catchup, Cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and other spices, &c. Are added by those who prefer piquance to thegenuine flavour of the oyster. 

Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way. 

N. B. Small scollop-shells, or saucers that hold about half a dozenoysters, are the most convenient. 

_Stewed Oysters. _--(No. 182*. )

Large oysters will do for stewing, and by some are preferred; but welove the plump, juicy natives. Stew a couple of dozen of these in theirown liquor; when they are coming to a boil, skim well, take them up andbeard them; strain the liquor through a tamis-sieve, and lay the oysterson a dish. Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put to it as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the oysters, and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, and a little white pepperand salt; to this some cooks add a little catchup, or finely-choppedparsley, grated lemon-peel, and juice; let it boil up for a couple ofminutes, till it is smooth, then take it off the fire, put in theoysters, and let them get warm (they must not themselves be boiled, orthey will become hard); line the bottom and sides of a hash-dish withbread-sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce into it. See _Obs. _ toreceipt No. 278. 

_Oysters fried. _[192-*]--(No. 183. )

The largest and finest oysters are to be chosen for this purpose; simmerthem in their own liquor for a couple of minutes, take them out and laythem on a cloth to drain, beard them and then flour them, egg andbread-crumb them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicatebrown. 

_Obs. _ An elegant garnish for made dishes, stewed rump-steaks, boiled orfried fish, &c. ; but they are too hard and dry to be eaten. 

FOOTNOTES:

[168-*] “I have ascertained, by many years’ observation, that a turbotkept two or three days is much better eating than a very freshone. ”--UDE’S _Cookery_, p. 238. 

“TURBOTS. The finest brought to the London market are caught off theDutch coast, or German Ocean, and are brought in well-boats alive. Thecommencement of the season is generally about March and April, andcontinues all the summer. Turbots, like other fish, do not spawn all atthe same time; therefore, there is always good and bad nearly all theyear round. For this year or two past, there has been an immensequantity brought to London, from all parts, and of all qualities: agreat many from a new fishery off Hartlepool, which are veryhandsome-looking turbot, but by no means equal to what are caught offthe Dutch coast. Many excellent turbots are caught off Dover andDungeness; and a large quantity brought from Scotland, packed in ice, which are of a very inferior quality, and are generally to be bought forabout one-fourth the price of good turbots. 

“_Brills_ are generally caught at the same place as turbots, and aregenerally of the same quality as the turbot, from the different parts. ”

[170-*] A large pair of soles will take the fourth part of a quarternloaf, which now costs twopence halfpenny. OATMEAL is a good substitutefor bread-crumbs, and costs comparatively nothing!!

[170-+] The FAT _will do two or three times_, if strained through ahair-sieve, and put by; if you do not find it enough, put a little freshto it. Read No. 83, and the 3d chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

[170-++] This requires a heat of upwards of 600 degrees of Fahrenheit’sthermometer:--FRYING is, in fact, _boiling in fat_. 

[171-*] If you are in haste, lay the sole on a clean, soft cloth, coverit with it, and gently press it upon the fish, to suck up the fat fromits surface. 

[171-+] The very indifferent manner in which the operation of fryingfish is usually performed, we suppose, produced the following _jeud’esprit_, which appeared in _The Morning Chronicle_:--

 “The King’s bench reports have cook’d up an odd dish, An action for damages, _fry_ versus _fish_. But, sure, if for damages action could lie, It certainly must have been _fish_ against _fry_. ”

The author of _The Cook’s Cookery_, 8vo. Page 116, does not seem tothink this fish can be too fresh; for he commences his directions with, “_If you can_, get a cod _hot_ out of the sea, ” &c. 

[172-*] The skate comes to the New-York market in the spring, but is notesteemed, as we have many better fish. The part about the flap orside-fin is best. A. 

[172-+] The TAIL is so much thinner than the thick part of the body, that, if boiled together, the former will be boiled too much, before thelatter is done enough; therefore it should be dressed separate; and thebest way of cooking it is to fry it in slices or fillets. See No. 151. 

“_Cod_ generally comes into good season in October, when, if the weatheris cold, it eats as fine as at any time in the year; towards the latterend of January and February, and part of March, they are mostly poor;but the latter end of March, April, and May, they are generallyparticularly fine; having shot their spawn, they come in fine order. _The Dogger-bank cod_ are the most esteemed, as they generally cut inlarge, fine flakes; the north-country cod, which are caught off theOrkney Isles, are generally very stringy, or what is commonly called_woolly_, and sell at a very inferior price, but are caught in muchgreater abundance than the Dogger cod. The cod are all caught with hook, and brought alive in well-boats to the London markets. The cod cured onthe Dogger-bank is remarkably fine, and seldom cured above two or threeweeks before brought to market; the _barrel cod_ is commonly cured onthe coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a great deal of inferiorcured salt-fish brought from Newfoundland and Iceland. 

“The SKULL of a Dogger-bank cod is one of those concatenations of_tit-bits_ which some epicures are fond of, either baked or boiled: itis composed of lots of pretty playthings or such finery, but will not dofor those who want a good meal: it may be bought for about 2_s. _: eitherboil it whole, or cut it into pieces, flour and dry them, and then eggand crumb, and fry them, or stew it (No. 158). 

“The TAIL of a cod cut in fillets or slices, and fried, makes a gooddish, and is generally to be bought at a very reasonable rate; ifboiled, it is soft and watery. _The skull and tail_ of a cod is afavourite and excellent Scotch dish, stewed, and served up with anchovyor oyster sauce, with the liquor it is boiled in, in a tureen. 

“_Ling_ is brought to the London market in the same manner as cod, butis very inferior to it, either fresh or salt. ”

[173-*] There are several species of codfish sold alive in the New-Yorkmarkets: of these, the common cod is the best, and is in season fromNovember till spring. The price varies from three to six cents thepound, as the market is well or scantily supplied. The head andshoulders of a large cod, boiled, is the best part to grace thedinner-table. It is full of rich gelatinous matter, which is savoury andeasy of digestion. Cod’s sounds and tongues are found on the stalls ofthe fishmongers in the winter season. They are rich and nourishing, andmay be prepared to garnish the dish, or served up separately boiled. A. 

[173-+] “In the sea-port towns of the New-England states in NorthAmerica, it has been a custom, time immemorial, among people of fashion, to dine one day in the week (Saturday) on salt fish; and a long habit ofpreparing the same dish has, as might have been expected, led to veryconsiderable improvements in the art of cooking it. I have often heardforeigners declare, that they never tasted salt fish dressed in suchperfection: the secret of cooking it, is to keep it for several hours inwater that is _just scalding hot_, but which is never made actually toboil. ”--COUNT RUMFORD’S _10th Essay_, p. 18. 

[174-*] That part of a cod which is near the tail, is considered, inAmerica, as the poorest part of the fish. A. 

[174-+] Sturgeons, though sea-fish, ascend the fresh water rivers, andin the Hudson are taken 80 miles above the salt water. They wereformerly called Albany beef, having been in plenty and cheap in themarket of that city. They are not, however, esteemed even there; andsince the running of the steamboats, and the quickness of theirpassages, all the valuable fish of the sea-coast are found in thatinland city. A. 

[174-++] The French do not flay them, but split them, dip them in flour, and fry them in hot dripping. 

[175-*] One of my culinary counsellors says, the heading of this receiptshould be, “_How to dress a good dish of fish while the cloth islaying_. ” If the articles are ready, twelve minutes will do it, withvery little trouble or expense. For richer stewed fish, see No. 164. 

[176-*] Our experience goes to substantiate the same point. A. 

[179-*] The perch of New-York are a small fresh-water fish, and seldomboiled, being better calculated for frying or broiling, as a relish atbreakfast. A. 

[180-*] SALMON. The earliest that comes in season to the London marketis brought from the Severn, and begins to come into season the beginningof November, but very few so early, perhaps not above one in fifty, asmany of them will not shoot their spawn till January, or after, and thencontinue in season till October, when they begin to get very thin andpoor. The principal supply of salmon is from different parts ofScotland, packed in ice, and brought by water: if the vessels have afair wind, they will be in London in three days; but it frequentlyhappens that they are at sea perhaps a fortnight, when the greater partof the fish is perished, and has, for a year or two past, sold as low astwopence per pound, and up to as much as eighteen pence per pound at thesame time, owing to its different degrees of goodness. This accounts forthe very low prices at which the itinerant fishmongers cry their“_delicate_ salmon, ” “_dainty fresh_ salmon, ” and “_live_ cod, ” “_new_mackerel, ” &c. &c. 

“Salmon gwilts, or salmon peel, are the small salmon which run fromabout five or six pounds to ten pounds, are very good fish, and makehandsome dishes of fish, sent to table crooked in the form of an S. 

“Berwick trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts, and are caught inthe river Tweed, and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt. 

“Calvered salmon is the salmon caught in the Thames, and cut into slicesalive; and some few salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive, andcut. A few slices make a handsome, genteel dish, but it is generallyvery expensive; sometimes 15_s. _ per pound. ”

[Fresh salmon comes to the New-York market from the eastern states, andmostly from Maine. It is also occasionally brought from the lakes andrivers of the northern part of New-York in winter. A. ]

[181-*] Small fish and fillets of whiting, turbots, brills, &c. Andslices of cod, or the head or tail of it, are excellent dressed the sameway. 

[181-+] The yellow eels taste muddy; the whiteness of the belly of thefish is not the only mark to know the best; the right colour of the backis a very bright coppery hue: the olive-coloured are inferior; and thosetending to a green are worse. 

[183-*] There are several species of mackerel in their season in theNew-York market. That which arrives in the spring is most esteemed, andin greatest plenty. Spring mackerel is a migrating fish, and succeedsthe shad, or commences its run along the coast of New-Jersey and LongIsland, just before the shad disappears. It does not ascend the rivers, but continues its course north-eastward in immense shoals, and is takenby the fishermen with the hook and line, while sailing in smacks alongthe coast, from the mouth of the Delaware to Nova Scotia. These fish arekept in cars, and sold alive in the markets. They are mostly broiled, and brought to the breakfast-table. The larger ones sometimes grace thedining-table. They may be boiled, but are best when stuffed and baked inan oven. A. 

[183-+] The roe of the male fish is soft, like the brains of a calf;that of the female is full of small eggs, and called hard roe. 

[184-*] Mackerel of large size may be stuffed like a fowl, leaving thehead on, and baked in an oven. A. 

[187-*] Lobsters are in great plenty and perfection in the New-Yorkmarkets. They are taken in Long Island Sound, and along the rocky shoresof Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts. A. 

[188-*] Crabs are not esteemed as a delicacy by epicures unless they aresoft, when they are fried whole. In July and August they shed theircoats, and in this state may be cooked and eaten without beingincommoded with their shells. A. 

[189-*] Oyster sauce, No. 278; preserved oysters, No. 280. 

[189-+] Those are called common oysters, which are picked up on theFrench coast, and laid in the Colchester beds. 

These are never so fine and fat as the natives, and seldom recover theshock their feelings receive from being transported from their nativeplace: delicate little creatures, they are as exquisite in their owntaste as they are to the taste of others!

[189-++] Oysters are thus called, that are born, as well as bred andfed, in this country, and are mostly spit in the Burnham and Merseyrivers: they do not come to their finest condition till they are nearfour years old. 

[189-§] WILL RABISHA, in his receipt to “broil oysters, ” (see hisCookery, page 144, ) directs, that while they are undergoing thisoperation, they should be _fed_ with white wine and grated bread. 

In BOYLE’S Works, 4to. 1772, vol. Ii. P. 450, there is a very curiouschapter on the eating of oysters. 

[191-*] “Animal food being composed of the most nutritious parts of thefood on which the animal lived, and having already been digested by theproper organs of an animal, requires only solution and mixture; whereasvegetable food must be converted into a substance of an animal nature, by the proper action of our own viscera, and consequently requires morelabour of the stomach, and other digestive organs. ”--BURTON _on theNon-naturals_, page 213. 

[192-*] New-York and other places on the sea-coast of the United States, afford oysters in great plenty and perfection, and the various methodsof preparing them are well known. A. 

BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

_Beef Broth. _[193-*]--(No. 185. )

Wash a leg or shin of beef very clean, crack the bone in two or threeplaces (this you should desire the butcher to do for you), add theretoany trimmings you have of meat, game, or poultry (_i. E. _ heads, necks, gizzards, feet, &c. ), and cover them with cold water; watch and stir itup well from the bottom, and the moment it begins to simmer, skim itcarefully; your broth must be perfectly clear and limpid, on thisdepends the goodness of the soups, sauces, and gravies, of which it isthe basis: then add some cold water to make the remaining scum rise, andskim it again; when the scum is done rising, and the surface of thebroth is quite clear, put in one moderate-sized carrot, a head ofcelery, two turnips, and two onions, it should not have any taste ofsweet herbs, spice, or garlic, &c. ; either of these flavours can easilybe added immediately after, if desired, by Nos. 420, 421, 422, &c. Coverit close, set it by the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently(so as not to waste the broth) for four or five hours, or more, according to the weight of the meat; strain it through a sieve into aclean and dry stone pan, and set it in the coldest place you have. 

_Obs. _ This is the foundation for all sorts of soups and sauce, brown orwhite. 

Stew no longer than the meat is thoroughly done to eat, and you willobtain excellent broth, without depriving the meat of its nutritioussucculence: to boil it to rags, as is the common practice, will notenrich your broths, but make them thick and grouty. 

The meat, [193-+] when gently stewed for only four or five hours till itis just tender, remains abundantly sapid and nourishing, and will afforda relishing and wholesome meal for half a dozen people; or make pottedbeef (No. 503): or when you have strained off the broth, cover the meatagain with water, and let it go on boiling for four hours longer, andmake what some cooks call “second stock;” it will produce some very goodglaze, or portable soup; see No. 252, and the _Obs. _ thereon. 

_Beef Gravy. _[194-*]--(No. 186. )

Cover the bottom of a stew-pan that is well tinned and quite clean, witha slice of good ham, or lean bacon, four or five pounds of gravy beefcut into half-pound pieces, a carrot, an onion with two cloves stuck init, and a head of celery; put a pint of broth or water to it, cover itclose, and set it over a moderate fire till the water is reduced to aslittle as will just save the ingredients from burning; then turn it allabout, and let it brown slightly and equally all over; then put in threequarts of boiling water;[194-+] when it boils up, skim it carefully, andwipe off with a clean cloth what sticks round the edge and inside of thestew-pan, that your gravy may be delicately clean and clear. Set it bythe side of a fire, where it will stew gently (to keep it clear, andthat it may not be reduced too much) for about four hours: if it has notboiled too fast, there should be two quarts of good gravy; strainthrough a silk, or tamis-sieve; take very particular care to skim itwell, and set it in a cold place. 

_Strong savoury Gravy_ (No. 188), _alias “Brown Sauce, ” alias_ “GRANDESPAGNOL. ”

Take a stew-pan that will hold four quarts, lay a slice or two of ham orbacon (about a quarter of an inch thick) at the bottom (undressed is thebest), and two pounds of beef or veal, a carrot, a large onion with fourcloves stuck in it, one head of celery, a bundle of parsley, lemon-thyme, and savoury, about as big round as your little finger, whentied close, a few leaves of sweet basil (one bay-leaf, and an eschalot, if you like it), a piece of lemon-peel, and a dozen corns ofallspice;[195-*] pour on this half a pint of water, cover it close, andlet it simmer gently on a slow fire for half an hour, in which time itwill be almost dry; watch it very carefully, and let it catch a nicebrown colour; turn the meat, &c. Let it brown on all sides; add threepints of boiling water, [195-+] and boil for a couple of hours. It is nowrich gravy. To convert it into

_Cullis, or thickened Gravy. _--(No. 189. )

To a quart of gravy, put a table-spoonful of thickening (No. 257), orfrom one to two table-spoonfuls of flour, according to the thickness youwish the gravy to be, into a basin, with a ladleful of the gravy; stirit quick; add the rest by degrees, till it is all well mixed; then pourit back into a stew-pan, and leave it by the side of the fire to simmerfor half an hour longer, that the thickening may thoroughly incorporatewith the gravy, the stew-pan being only half covered, stirring it everynow and then; a sort of scum will gather on the top, which it is bestnot to take off till you are ready to strain it through a tamis. [195-++]

Take care it is neither of too pale nor too dark a colour; if it is notthick enough, let it stew longer, till it is reduced to the desiredthickness; or add a bit of glaze, or portable soup to it, see No. 252:if it is too thick, you can easily thin it with a spoonful or two ofwarm broth, or water. When your sauce is done, stir it in the basin youput it into once or twice, while it is cooling. 

_Veal Broth. _--(No. 191. )

A knuckle of veal is best; manage it as directed in the receipt for beefbroth (No. 185), only take care not to let it catch any colour, as thisand the following and richer preparation of veal, are chiefly used forwhite soups, sauces, &c. 

To make white sauce, see No. 364*. 

_Veal Gravy. _--(No. 192. )

About three pounds of the nut of the leg of veal, cut into half-poundslices, with a quarter of a pound of ham in small dice; proceed asdirected for the beef gravy (No. 186), but watch the time of putting inthe water; if this is poured in too soon, the gravy will not have itstrue flavour, if it be let alone till the meat sticks too much to thepan, it will catch too brown a colour. 

_Knuckle of Veal, or Shin or Leg of Beef, Soup. _--(No. 193. )

A knuckle of veal of six pounds weight will make a large tureen ofexcellent soup, and is thus easily prepared: cut half a pound of baconinto slices about half an inch thick, lay it at the bottom of asoup-kettle, or deep stew-pan, and on this place the knuckle of veal, having first chopped the bone in two or three places; furnish it withtwo carrots, two turnips, a head of celery, two large onions, with twoor three cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen corns of black, and thesame of Jamaica pepper, and a good bundle of lemon-thyme, wintersavoury, and parsley. Just cover the meat with cold water, and set itover a quick fire till it boils; having skimmed it well, remove yoursoup-kettle to the side of the fire; let it stew very gently till it isquite tender, _i. E. _ about four hours; then take out the bacon andveal, strain the soup, and set it by in a cool place till you want it, when you must take off the fat from the surface of your liquor, anddecant it (keeping back the settlings at the bottom) into a clean pan. 

If you like a thickened soup, put three table-spoonfuls of the fat youhave taken off the soup into a small stew-pan, and mix it with fourtable-spoonfuls of flour, pour a ladleful of soup to it, and mix it withthe rest by degrees, and boil it up till it is smooth. 

Cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle and the bacon into mouthfuls, and put them into the soup, and let them get warm. 

_Obs. _ You may make this more savoury by adding catchup (No. 439), &c. Shin of beef may be dressed in the same way; see Knuckle of Veal stewedwith Rice (No. 523). 

_Mutton Broth. _--(No. 194. )

Take two pounds of scrag of mutton; to take the blood out, put it into astew-pan, and cover it with cold water; when the water becomesmilk-warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five pints of water, witha tea-spoonful of salt, a table-spoonful of best grits, and an onion;set it on a slow fire, and when you have taken all the scum off, put intwo or three turnips; let it simmer very slowly for two hours, andstrain it through a clean sieve. 

This usual method of making mutton broth with the scrag, is by no meansthe most economical method of obtaining it; for which see Nos. 490 and564. 

_Obs. _ You may thicken broth by boiling with it a little oatmeal, rice, Scotch or pearl barley; when you make it for a sick person, read the_Obs. _ on Broths, &c. In the last page of the 7th chapter of theRudiments of Cookery, and No. 564. 

_Mock Mutton Broth, without Meat, in five minutes. _--(No. 195. )

Boil a few leaves of parsley with two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup, in three-quarters of a pint of very thin gruel[197-*] (No. 572). Seasonwith a little salt. 

_Obs. _ This is improved by a few drops of eschalot wine (No. 402), andthe same of essence of sweet herbs (No. 419). See also Portable Soup(No. 252). 

_The Queen’s Morning “Bouillon de Santé_, ”--(No. 196. )

Sir Kenelm Digby, in his “_Closet of Cookery_, ” p. 149, London, 1669, informs us, was made with “a brawny hen, or young cock, a handful ofparsley, one sprig of thyme, three of spearmint, a little balm, half agreat onion, a little pepper and salt, and a clove, with as much wateras will cover them; and this boiled to less than a pint for one goodporringerful. ”

_Ox-heel Jelly. _--(No. 198. )

Slit them in two, and take away the fat between the claws. Theproportion of water to each heel is about a quart: let it simmer gentlyfor eight hours (keeping it clean skimmed); it will make a pint and ahalf of strong jelly, which is frequently used to make calves’ feetjelly (No. 481), or to add to mock turtle and other soups. See No. 240*. This jelly evaporated, as directed in No. 252, will give about threeounces and a half of strong glaze. An unboiled heel costs one shillingand threepence: so this glaze, which is very inferior in flavour to No. 252, is quite as expensive as that is. 

N. B. To dress the heels, see No. 18. 

_Obs. _ Get a heel that has only been scalded, not one of those usuallysold at the tripe-shops, which have been boiled till almost all thegelatine is extracted. 

_Clear Gravy Soups. _--(No. 200. )

Cut half a pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom of alarge stew-pan or stock-pot, with two or three pounds of lean beef, andas much veal; break the bones, and lay them on the meat; take off theouter skin of two large onions and two turnips; wash, clean, and cutinto pieces a couple of large carrots, and two heads of celery; and putin three cloves and a large blade of mace. Cover the stew-pan close, andset it over a smart fire. When the meat begins to stick to the bottom ofthe stew-pan, turn it; and when there is a nice brown glaze at thebottom of the stew-pan, cover the meat with hot water: watch it, andwhen it is coming to boil put in half a pint of cold water; take off thescum; then put in half a pint more cold water, and skim it again, andcontinue to do so till no more scum rises. Now set it on one side of thefire to boil gently for about four hours; strain it through a cleantamis or napkin (do not squeeze it, or the soup will be thick) into aclean stone pan; let it remain till it is cold, and then remove all thefat. When you decant it, be careful not to disturb the settlings at thebottom of the pan. 

The broth should be of a fine amber colour, and as clear as rock water. If it is not quite so bright as you wish it, put it into a stew-pan;break two whites and shells of eggs into a basin; beat them welltogether; put them into the soup: set it on a quick fire, and stir itwith a whisk till it boils; then set it on one side of the fire tosettle for ten minutes; run it through a fine napkin into a basin, andit is ready. 

However, if your broth is carefully skimmed, &c. According to thedirections above given, it will be clear enough without clarifying;which process impairs the flavour of it in a higher proportion than itimproves its appearance. 

_Obs. _--This is the basis of almost all gravy soups, which are called bythe name of the vegetables that are put into them. 

Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few leaves of chervil, make whatis called spring soup, or soup santé; to this a pint of green pease, orasparagus pease, or French beans cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, are an improvement. 

With rice or Scotch barley, with macaroni or vermicelli, or celery, cutinto lengths, it will be the soup usually called by those names. 

Or turnips scooped round, or young onions, will give you a clear turnipor onion soup; and all these vegetables mixed together, soup GRESSI. 

The gravy for all these soups may be produced _extempore_ with No. 252. 

The roots and vegetables you use must be boiled first, or they willimpregnate the soup with too strong a flavour. 

The seasoning for all these soups is the same, viz. Salt and a verylittle Cayenne pepper. 

N. B. To make excellent vegetable gravy soup for 4-1/2_d. _ a quart, seeNo. 224. 

_Scotch Barley Broth_;--a good and substantial dinner for fivepence perhead. --(No. 204. )

Wash three-quarters of a pound of Scotch barley in a little cold water;put it in a soup-pot with a shin or leg of beef, of about ten poundsweight, sawed into four pieces (tell the butcher to do this for you);cover it well with cold water; set it on the fire: when it boils skim itvery clean, and put in two onions of about three ounces weight each; setit by the side of the fire to simmer very gently about two hours; thenskim all the fat clean off, and put in two heads of celery, and a largeturnip cut into small squares; season it with salt, and let it boil anhour and a half longer, and it is ready: take out the meat (carefullywith a slice, and cover it up, and set it by the fire to keep warm), andskim the broth well before you put it in the tureen. 

 _s. _ _d. _ Shin of beef of 10lbs 2 0 3/4 pound of barley 0 4-1/2 2 onions, of about 3 oz. Weight each 0 0-1/2 Celery 0 1 Large turnip 0 1 ---------- 2 7

Thus you get four quarts of good soup at 8_d. _ per quart, besidesanother quart to make sauce for the meat, in the following manner:

Put a quart of the soup into a basin; put about an ounce of flour into astew-pan, and pour the broth to it by degrees, stirring it welltogether; set it on the fire, and stir it till it boils; then (some putin a glass of port wine, or mushroom catchup, No. 439) let it boil up, and it is ready. 

Put the meat in a ragoût dish, and strain the sauce through a sieveover the meat; you may put to it some capers, or minced gherkins orwalnuts, &c. 

If the beef has been stewed with proper care in a very gentle manner, and be taken up at “the critical moment when it is just tender, ” youwill obtain an excellent and savoury meal for eight people forfivepence; _i. E. _ for only the cost of the glass of port wine. 

If you use veal, cover the meat with No. 364--2. 

_Obs. _--This is a most frugal, agreeable, and nutritive meal; it willneither lighten the purse, nor lie heavy on the stomach, and willfurnish a plentiful and pleasant soup and meat for eight persons. So youmay give a good dinner for 5_d. _ per head!!! See also Nos. 229 and 239. 

N. B. If you will draw your purse-strings a little wider, and allow 1_d. _per mouth more, prepare a pint of young onions as directed in No. 296, and garnish the dish with them, or some carrots or turnips cut intosquares; and for 6_d. _ per head you will have as good a RAGOUT as “_leCuisinier Impérial de France_” can give you for as many shillings. Read_Obs. _ to No. 493. 

You may vary the flavour by adding a little curry powder (No. 455), ragoût (No. 457, &c. ), or any of the store sauces and flavouringessences between Nos. 396 and 463; you may garnish the dish with splitpickled mangoes, walnuts, gherkins, onions, &c. See Wow wow Sauce, No. 328. 

If it is made the evening before the soup is wanted, and suffered tostand till it is cold, much fat[200-*] may be removed from the surfaceof the soup, which is, when clarified (No. 83), useful for all thepurposes that drippings are applied to. 

_Scotch Soups. _--(No. 205. )

The three following receipts are the contribution of a friend atEdinburgh. 

_Winter Hotch-potch. _

Take the best end of a neck or loin of mutton; cut it into neat chops;cut four carrots, and as many turnips into slices; put on four quarts ofwater, with half the carrots and turnips, and a whole one of each, witha pound of dried green pease, which must be put to soak the nightbefore; let it boil two hours, then take out the whole carrot andturnip; bruise and return them; put in the meat, and the rest of thecarrot and turnip, some pepper and salt, and boil slowly three-quartersof an hour; a short time before serving, add an onion cut small and ahead of celery. 

_Cocky-leeky Soup. _

Take a scrag of mutton, or shank of veal, three quarts of water (orliquor in which meat has been boiled), and a good-sized fowl, with twoor three leeks cut in pieces about an inch long, pepper and salt; boilslowly about an hour: then put in as many more leeks, and give itthree-quarters of an hour longer: this is very good, made of goodbeef-stock, and leeks put in it twice. 

_Lamb Stove, or Lamb Stew. _

Take a lamb’s head and lights; open the jaws of the head, and wash themthoroughly; put them in a pot with some beef-stock, made with threequarts of water, and two pounds of shin of beef, strained; boil veryslowly for an hour; wash and string two or three good handfuls ofspinach (or spinage); put it in twenty minutes before serving; add alittle parsley, and one or two onions, a short time before it comes offthe fire; season with pepper and salt, and serve all together in atureen. 

_Scotch Brose. _--(No. 205*. )

“This favourite Scotch dish is generally made with the liquor meat hasbeen boiled in. 

“Put half a pint of oatmeal into a porringer with a little salt, ifthere be not enough in the broth, of which add as much as will mix it tothe consistence of hasty-pudding, or a little thicker; lastly, take alittle of the fat that swims on the broth, and put it on the crowdie, and eat it in the same way as hasty-pudding. ”

_Obs. _--This Scotsman’s dish is easily prepared at very little expense, and is pleasant-tasted and nutritious. To dress a haggies, see No. 488*, and Minced Collops, following it. 

N. B. For various methods of making and flavouring oatmeal gruel, see No. 572. 

_Carrot Soup. _--(No. 212. )

Scrape and wash half a dozen large carrots; peel off the red outside(which is the only part used for this soup); put it into a gallonstew-pan, with one head of celery, and an onion, cut into thin pieces;take two quarts of beef, veal, or mutton broth, or if you have any coldroast-beef bones (or liquor, in which mutton or beef has been boiled), you may make very good broth for this soup: when you have put the brothto the roots, cover the stew-pan close, and set it on a slow stove fortwo hours and a half, when the carrots will be soft enough (some cooksput in a tea-cupful of bread-crumbs); boil for two or three minutes; rubit through a tamis, or hair-sieve, with a wooden spoon, and add as muchbroth as will make it a proper thickness, _i. E. _ almost as thick aspease soup: put it into a clean stew-pan; make it hot; season it with alittle salt, and send it up with some toasted bread, cut into pieceshalf an inch square. Some put it into the soup; but the best way is tosend it up on a plate, as a side-dish. 

_Obs. _ This is neither expensive nor troublesome to prepare. In thekitchens of some opulent epicures, to make this soup make a littlestronger impression on the gustatory organs of “grands gourmands, ” thecelery and onions are sliced, and fried in butter of a light brown, thesoup is poured into the stew-pan to them, and all is boiled up together. But this must be done very carefully with butter, or very nicelyclarified fat; and the “grand cuisinier” adds spices, &c. “_adlibitum_. ”

_Turnip and Parsnip Soups_, --(No. 213. )

Are made in the same manner as the carrot soup (No. 212. )

_Celery Soup. _--(No. 214. )

Split half a dozen heads of celery into slips about two inches long;wash them well; lay them on a hair-sieve to drain, and put them intothree quarts of No. 200 in a gallon soup-pot; set it by the side of thefire to stew very gently till the celery is tender (this will take aboutan hour). If any scum rises, take it off; season with a little salt. 

_Obs. _ When celery cannot be procured, half a drachm of the seed, pounded fine, which may be considered as the essence of celery (costsonly one-third of a farthing, and can be had at any season), put in aquarter of an hour before the soup is done, and a little sugar, willgive as much flavour to half a gallon of soup as two heads of celeryweighing seven ounces, and costing 2_d. _; or add a little essence ofcelery, No. 409. 

_Green Pease Soup. _--(No. 216. )

A peck of pease will make you a good tureen of soup. In shelling them, put the old ones in one basin, and the young ones in another, and keepout a pint of them, and boil them separately to put into your soup whenit is finished: put a large saucepan on the fire half full of water;when it boils, put the pease in, with a handful of salt; let them boiltill they are done enough, _i. E. _ from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age and size; then drain them in a colander, and putthem into a clean gallon stew-pan, and three quarts of plain veal ormutton broth (drawn from meat without any spices or herbs, &c. Whichwould overpower the flavour of the soup); cover the stew-pan close, andset it over a slow fire to stew gently for an hour; add a tea-cupful ofbread-crumbs, and then rub it through a tamis into another stew-pan;stir it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick, add a little morebroth: have ready boiled as for eating, a pint of young pease, and putthem into the soup; season with a little salt and sugar. 

N. B. Some cooks, while this soup is going on, slice a couple ofcucumbers (as you would for eating); take out the seeds; lay them on acloth to drain, and then flour them, and fry them a light brown in alittle butter; put them into the soup the last thing before it goes totable. 

_Obs. _ If the soup is not green enough, pound a handful of pea-hulls orspinage, and squeeze the juice through a cloth into the soup: someleaves of mint may be added, if approved. 

_Plain green Pease Soup without Meat. _--(No. 217. )

Take a quart of green pease (keep out half a pint of the youngest; boilthem separately, and put them in the soup when it is finished); put themon in boiling water; boil them tender, and then pour off the water, andset it by to make the soup with: put the pease into a mortar, and poundthem to a mash; then put them into two quarts of the water you boiledthe pease in; stir all well together; let it boil up for about fiveminutes, and then rub it through a hair-sieve or tamis. If the pease aregood, it will be as thick and fine a vegetable soup as need be sent totable. 

_Pease Soup. _--(No. 218. )

The common way of making pease soup[203-*] is--to a quart of splitpease put three quarts of cold soft water, not more, (or it will be what“Jack Ros-bif” calls “soup maigre, ”) notwithstanding Mother Glasseorders a gallon (and her ladyship’s directions have been copied byalmost every cookery-book maker who has strung receipts together since), with half a pound of bacon (not very fat), or roast-beef bones, or fouranchovies: or, instead of the water, three quarts of the liquor in whichbeef, mutton, pork, or poultry has been boiled, tasting it first, tomake sure it is not too salt. [204-*]

Wash two heads of celery;[204-+] cut it, and put it in, with two onionspeeled, and a sprig of savoury, or sweet marjoram, or lemon-thyme; setit on the trivet, and let it simmer very gently over a slow fire, stirring it every quarter of an hour (to keep the pease from stickingto, and burning at, the bottom of the soup-pot) till the pease aretender, which will be in about three hours. Some cooks now slice a headof celery, and half an ounce of onions, and fry them in a little butter, and put them into the soup till they are lightly browned; then work thewhole through a coarse hair-sieve, and then through a fine sieve, or(what is better) through a tamis, with the back of a wooden spoon: putit into a clean stew-pan, with half a tea-spoonful of ground blackpepper;[204-++] let it boil again for ten minutes, and if any fatarises, skim it off. 

Send up on a plate, toasted bread cut into little pieces a quarter of aninch square, or cut a slice of bread (that has been baked two days) intodice, not more than half an inch square; put half a pound of perfectlyclean drippings or lard into an iron frying-pan; when it is hot, fry thebread; take care and turn it about with a slice, or by shaking of thepan as it is frying, that it may be on each side of a delicate lightbrown, (No. 319;) take it up with a fish-slice, and lay it on a sheet ofpaper to drain the fat: be careful that this is done nicely: send theseup in one side-dish, and dried and powdered mint or savoury, or sweetmarjoram, &c. In another. 

Those who are for a double relish, and are true lovers of “_haut goût_, ”may have some bacon cut into small squares like the bread, and friedtill it is crisp, or some little lumps of boiled pickled pork; or putcucumber fried into this soup, as you have directions in No. 216. 

_Obs. _ The most economical method of making pease soup, is to save thebones of a joint of roast beef, and put them into the liquor in whichmutton, or beef, or pork, or poultry, has been boiled, and proceed as inthe above receipt. A hock, or shank-bone of ham, a ham-bone, the root ofa tongue, or a red or pickled herring, are favourite additions with somecooks; others send up rice or vermicelli with pease soup. [205-*]

N. B. To make pease soup extempore, see No. 555. 

If you wish to make soup the same day you boil meat or poultry, preparethe pease the same as for pease pudding (No. 555), to which you may addan onion and a head of celery, when you rub the pease through the sieve;instead of putting eggs and butter, add some of the liquor from the potto make it a proper thickness; put it on to boil for five minutes, andit is ready. 

_Obs. _ This latter is by far the easiest and the best way of makingpease soup. 

Pease soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the palate, without anymeat, by incorporating two ounces of fresh and nicely-clarified beef, mutton, or pork drippings (see No. 83), with two ounces of oatmeal, andmixing this well into the gallon of soup, made as above directed: seealso No. 229. 

_Pease Soup and pickled Pork. _--(No. 220. )

A couple of pounds of the belly part of pickled pork will make very goodbroth for pease soup, if the pork be not too salt; if it has been insalt more than two days, it must be laid in water the night before it isused. 

Put on the ingredients mentioned in No. 218, in three quarts of water;boil gently for two hours, then put in the pork, and boil very gentlytill it is done enough to eat; this will take about an hour and a half, or two hours longer, according to its thickness; when done, wash thepork clean in hot water, send it up in a dish, or cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the soup in the tureen, with the accompaniments orderedin No. 218. 

_Obs. _ The meat being boiled no longer than to be done enough to beeaten, you get excellent soup, without any expense of meat destroyed. 

“In Canada, the inhabitants live three-fourths of the year on peasesoup, prepared with salt pork, which is boiled till the fat is entirelydissolved among the soup, giving it a rich flavour. ”--The Hon. J. COCHRANE’S _Seaman’s Guide_, 8vo. 1797, p. 31. 

_Plain Pease Soup. _--(No. 221. )

To a quart of split pease, and two heads of celery, (and most cookswould put a large onion, ) put three quarts of broth or soft water; letthem simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire for three hours, stirring up every quarter of an hour to prevent the pease burning at thebottom of the soup-kettle (if the water boils away, and the soup getstoo thick, add some boiling water to it); when they are well softened, work them through a coarse sieve, and then through a fine sieve or atamis; wash out your stew-pan, and then return the soup into it, andgive it a boil up; take off any scum that comes up, and it is ready. Prepare fried bread, and dried mint, as directed in No. 218, and sendthem up with it on two side dishes. 

_Obs. _ This is an excellent family soup, produced with very littletrouble or expense. 

Most of the receipts for pease soup are crowded with ingredients whichentirely overpower the flavour of the pease. See No. 555. 

_Asparagus Soup. _--(No. 222. )

This is made with the points of asparagus, in the same manner as thegreen pease soup (No. 216 or 17) is with pease: let half the asparagusbe rubbed through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces about an inchlong, and boiled till done enough, and sent up in the soup: to make twoquarts, there must be a pint of heads to thicken it, and half a pint cutin; take care to preserve these green and a little crisp. This soup issometimes made by adding the asparagus heads to common pease soup. 

_Obs. _ Some cooks fry half an ounce of onion in a little butter, and rubit through a sieve, and add it with the other ingredients; the _hautgoût_ of the onion will entirely overcome the delicate flavour of theasparagus, and we protest against all such combinations. 

_Maigre, or Vegetable Gravy Soup. _[207-*]--(No. 224. )

Put into a gallon stew-pan three ounces of butter; set it over a slowfire; while it is melting, slice four ounces of onion; cut in smallpieces one turnip, one carrot, and a head of celery; put them in thestewpan, cover it close, let it fry till they are lightly browned; thiswill take about twenty-five minutes: have ready, in a sauce-pan, a pintof pease, with four quarts of water; when the roots in the stew-pan arequite brown, and the pease come to a boil, put the pease and water tothem; put it on the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, and put in acrust of bread about as big as the top of a twopenny loaf, twenty-fourberries of allspice, the same of black pepper, and two blades of mace;cover it close, let it simmer gently for one hour and a half; then setit from the fire for ten minutes; then pour it off very gently (so asnot to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan) into a largebasin; let it stand (about two hours) till it is quite clear: while thisis doing, shred one large turnip, the red part of a large carrot, threeounces of onion minced, and one large head of celery cut into smallbits; put the turnips and carrots on the fire in cold water, let themboil five minutes, then drain them on a sieve, then pour off the soupclear into a stew-pan, put in the roots, put the soup on the fire, letit simmer gently till the herbs are tender (from thirty to fortyminutes), season it with salt and a little Cayenne, and it is ready. 

You may add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (No. 439). 

_Obs. _ You will have three quarts of soup, as well coloured, and almostas well flavoured, as if made with gravy meat. 

N. B. To make this it requires nearly five hours. To fry the herbsrequires twenty-five minutes; to boil all together, one hour and a half;to settle, at the least, two hours; when clear, and put on the fireagain, half an hour more. 

_FISH SOUPS. _--(No. 225. )

_Eel Soup. _

To make a tureenful, take a couple of middling-sized onions, cut them inhalf, and cross your knife over them two or three times; put two ouncesof butter into a stew-pan when it is melted, put in the onions, stirthem about till they are lightly browned; cut into pieces three poundsof unskinned eels, put them into your stew-pan, and shake them over thefire for five minutes; then add three quarts of boiling water, and whenthey come to a boil, take the scum off very clean; then put in a quarterof an ounce of the green leaves (not dried) of winter savoury, the sameof lemon thyme, and twice the quantity of parsley, two drachms ofallspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it boilgently for two hours; then strain it off, and skim it very clean. Tothicken it, put three ounces of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it ismelted, stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste, then addthe liquor by degrees; let it simmer for ten minutes, and pass itthrough a sieve; then put your soup on in a clean stew-pan, and haveready some little square pieces of fish fried of a nice light brown, either eels, soles, plaice, or skate will do; the fried fish should beadded about ten minutes before the soup is served up. Forcemeat balls(Nos. 375, 378, &c. ) are sometimes added. 

_Obs. _ Excellent fish soups may be made with a cod’s skull, or skate, orflounders, &c. Boiled in no more water than will just cover them, andthe liquor thickened with oatmeal, &c. 

_Cheap Soups. _--(No. 229. )

Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for “bettering thecondition of the poor, ” a more useful or extensive charity cannot bedevised, than that of instructing them in economical cookery: it is oneof the most-important objects to which the attention of any realwell-wisher to the public interest can possibly be directed. 

The best and cheapest method of making a nourishing soup, is least knownto those who have most need of it; it will enable those who have smallincomes and large families to make the most of the little they possess, without pinching their children of that wholesome nourishment which isnecessary for the purpose of rearing them up to maturity in health andstrength. 

The labouring classes seldom purchase what are called the coarser piecesof meat, because they do not know how to dress them, but lay out theirmoney in pieces for roasting, &c. , of which the bones, &c. Enhance theprice of the actual meat to nearly a shilling per pound, and thediminution of weight by roasting amounts to 32 per cent. This, for thesake of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally sent to an oven tobe baked; the nourishing parts are evaporated and dried up, its weightis diminished nearly one-third, and all that a poor man can afford topurchase with his week’s earnings, perhaps does not half satisfy theappetites of himself and family for a couple of days. 

If a hard-working man cannot get a comfortable meal at home, he soonfinds his way to the public-house, the poor wife contents herself withtea and bread and butter, and the children are half starved. 

DR. KITCHINER’S receipt to make a cheap, nutritive, and palatable soup, fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength, will open a newsource to those benevolent housekeepers who are disposed to relieve thepoor; will show the industrious classes how much they have it in theirpower to assist themselves; and rescue them from being dependent on theprecarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may obtain anabundant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and families, for one penny per quart. See page 210. 

For various economical soups, see Nos. 204, 239, 240, 224, 221, and_Obs. _ to Nos. 244 and 252, and Nos. 493 and 502. 

_Obs. _ Dripping intended for soup should be taken out of the pan almostas soon as it has dropped from the meat; if it is not quite clean, clarify it. See receipt, No. 83. 

Dripping thus prepared is a very different thing from that which hasremained in the dripping-pan all the time the meat has been roasting, and perhaps live coals have dropped into it. [209-*]

Distributing soup does not answer half so well as teaching people how tomake it, and improve their comfort at home: the time lost in waiting atthe soup-house is seldom less than three hours; in which time, by anyindustrious occupation, however poorly paid, they could earn more moneythan the quart of soup is worth. 

DR. KITCHINER’S _Receipt to make a Gallon of Barley Broth for a Groat_. See also No. 204. 

Put four ounces of Scotch barley (previously washed in cold water), andfour ounces of sliced onions, into five quarts of water; boil gently forone hour, and pour it into a pan; then put into the saucepan from one totwo ounces of clean beef or mutton drippings, or melted suet, (toclarify these, see No. 83) or two or three ounces of fat bacon minced;when melted, stir into it four ounces of oatmeal; rub these togethertill you make a paste (if this be properly managed, the whole of the fatwill combine with the barley broth, and not a particle appear on thesurface to offend the most delicate stomach); now add the barley broth, at first a spoonful at a time, then the rest by degrees, stirring itwell together till it boils. To season it, put a drachm offinely-pounded celery, or cress-seed, or half a drachm of each, and aquarter of a drachm of finely-pounded Cayenne (No. 404), or a drachm anda half of ground black pepper, or allspice, into a tea-cup, and mix itup with a little of the soup, and then pour it into the rest; stir itthoroughly together; let it simmer gently a quarter of an hour longer, season it with salt, and it is ready. 

The flavour may be varied by doubling the portion of onions, or adding aclove of garlic or eschalot, and leaving out the celery-seed (No. 572), or put in shredded roots as in No. 224; or, instead of oatmeal, thickenit with ground rice, or pease, &c. , and make it savoury with friedonions. 

This preparation, excellent as it is, would, without variety, soonbecome less agreeable. 

Nothing so completely disarms poverty of its sting, as the means ofrendering a scanty pittance capable of yielding a comfortable variety. 

Change of flavour is absolutely necessary, not merely as a matter ofpleasure and comfort, but of health; _toujours perdrix_ is a trueproverb. 

This soup will be much improved, if, instead of water, it be made withthe liquor meat has been boiled in; at tripe, cow-heel, and cook-shops, this may be had for little or nothing. 

This soup has the advantage of being very soon and easily made, with nomore fuel than is necessary to warm a room; those who have not tastedit, cannot imagine what a savoury and satisfying meal is produced by thecombination of these cheap and homely ingredients. 

If the generally-received opinion be true, that animal and vegetablefoods afford nourishment in proportion to the quantity of oil, jelly, and mucilage, that can be extracted from them, this soup has strongclaims to the attention of rational economists. 

_Craw-fish Soup. _--(No. 235. )

This soup is sometimes made with beef, or veal broth, or with fish, inthe following manner:

Take flounders, eels, gudgeons, &c. , and set them on to boil in coldwater; when it is pretty nigh boiling, skim it well; and to three quartsput in a couple of onions, and as many carrots cut to pieces, someparsley, a dozen berries of black and Jamaica pepper, and about half ahundred craw-fish; take off the small claws and shells of the tails;pound them fine, and boil them with the broth about an hour; strain off, and break in some crusts of bread to thicken it, and, if you can get it, the spawn of a lobster; pound it, and put it to the soup; let it simmervery gently for a couple of minutes; put in your craw-fish to get hot, and the soup is ready. 

_Obs. _--One of my predecessors recommends craw-fish pounded alive, tosweeten the sharpness of the blood. Vide CLERMONT’S _Cookery_, p. 5, London, 1776. 

“_Un des grands hommes de bouche de France_” says, “_Un bon coulisd’ecrevisses est le paradis sur la terre, et digne de la table desdieux_; and of all the tribe of shell-fish, which our industry and oursensuality bring from the bottom of the sea, the river, or the pond, thecraw-fish is incomparably the most useful and the most delicious. ”

_Lobster Soup. _--(No. 237. )

You must have three fine lively[211-*] young hen lobsters, and boilthem, see No. 176; when cold, split the tails; take out the fish, crackthe claws, and cut the meat into mouthfuls: take out the coral, and softpart of the body; bruise part of the coral in a mortar; pick out thefish from the chines; beat part of it with the coral, and with this makeforcemeat balls, finely-flavoured with mace or nutmeg, a little gratedlemon-peel, anchovy, and Cayenne; pound these with the yelk of an egg. 

Have three quarts of veal broth; bruise the small legs and the chine, and put them into it, to boil for twenty minutes, then strain it; andthen to thicken it, take the live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with alittle butter and flour; rub it through a sieve, and add it to the soupwith the meat of the lobsters, and the remaining coral; let it simmervery gently for ten minutes; do not let it boil, or its fine red colourwill immediately fade; turn it into a tureen; add the juice of a goodlemon, and a little essence of anchovy. 

_Soup and Bouilli. _--(No. 238. See also No. 5. )

The best parts for this purpose are the leg or shin, or a piece of themiddle of a brisket of beef, of about seven or eight pounds weight; layit on a fish-drainer, or when you take it up put a slice under it, whichwill enable you to place it on the dish entire; put it into a soup-potor deep stew-pan, with cold water enough to cover it, and a quart over;set it on a quick fire to get the scum up, which remove as it rises;then put in two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two large onions, two heads of celery, two or three cloves, and a fagot of parsley andsweet herbs; set the pot by the side of the fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is just tender enough to eat: this will require about fouror five hours. 

Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, and a head or two ofcelery, into the soup whole; take them out as soon as they are doneenough; lay them on a dish till they are cold; then cut them into smallsquares: when the beef is done, take it out carefully: to dish it up, see No. 204, or No. 493: strain the soup through a hair-sieve into aclean stew-pan; take off the fat, and put the vegetables that are cutinto the soup, the flavour of which you may heighten by adding atable-spoonful of mushroom catchup. 

If a thickened soup is preferred, take four large table-spoonfuls of theclear fat from the top of the pot, and four spoonfuls of flour; mix itsmooth together; then by degrees stir it well into the soup, whichsimmer for ten minutes longer at least; skim it well, and pass itthrough a tamis, or fine sieve, and add the vegetables and seasoning thesame as directed in the clear soup. 

Keep the beef hot, and send it up (as a remove to the soup) withfinely-chopped parsley sprinkled on the top, and a sauce-boat of No. 328. 

_Ox-head Soup_, --(No. 239. )

Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, as you cannot cutthe meat off the head into neat mouthfuls unless it is cold: therefore, the day before you want this soup, put half an ox-cheek into a tub ofcold water to soak for a couple of hours; then break the bones that havenot been broken at the butcher’s, and wash it very well in warm water;put it into a pot, and cover it with cold water; when it boils, skim itvery clean, and then put in one head of celery, a couple of carrots, aturnip, two large onions, two dozen berries of black pepper, same ofallspice, and a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram, lemon-thyme, savoury, and a handful of parsley; cover the soup-pot close, and set iton a slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise when it is coming toa boil, and set it by the fireside to stew very gently for about threehours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a finesieve into a stone-ware pan, and set it and the head by in a cool placetill the next day: then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim andstrain off the broth, put two quarts of it and the meat into a cleanstew-pan, let it simmer very gently for half an hour longer, and it isready. If you wish it thickened (which we do not recommend, for thereasons given in the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery), put twoounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, throw in as muchflour as will dry it up; when they are all well mixed together, andbrowned by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir it well together;let it simmer for half an hour longer; strain it through a hair-sieveinto a clean stew-pan, and put to it the meat of the head; let it stewhalf an hour longer, and season it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and aglass of good wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy. See Ox-cheek stewed, No. 507. 

_Obs. _--Those who wish this soup still more savoury, &c. For the meansof making it so, we refer to No. 247. 

N. B. This is an excellent and economical soup. See also Nos. 204 and229. 

If you serve it as soup for a dozen people, thicken one tureen, and sendup the meat in that; and send up the other as a clear gravy soup, withsome of the carrots and turnips shredded, or cut into shapes. 

_Ox-tail Soup. _--(No. 240. )

Three tails, costing about 7_d. _ each, will make a tureen of soup(desire the butcher to divide them at the joints); lay them to soak inwarm water, while you get ready the vegetables. 

Put into a gallon stew-pan eight cloves, two or three onions, half adrachm of allspice, and the same of black pepper, and the tails;[214-*]cover them with cold water; skim it carefully, when and as long as yousee any scum rise; then cover the pot as close as possible, and set iton the side of the fire to keep gently simmering till the meat becomestender and will leave the bones easily, because it is to be eaten with aspoon, without the assistance of a knife or fork; see N. B. To No. 244;this will require about two hours: mind it is not done too much: whenperfectly tender, take out the meat and cut it off the bones, in neatmouthfuls; skim the broth, and strain it through a sieve; if you prefera thickened soup, put flour and butter, as directed in the precedingreceipt; or put two table-spoonfuls of the fat you have taken off thebroth into a clean stew-pan, with as much flour as will make it into apaste; set this over the fire, and stir them well together; then pour inthe broth by degrees, stirring it, and mixing it with the thickening;let it simmer for another half hour, and when you have well skimmed it, and it is quite smooth, then strain it through a tamis into a cleanstew-pan, put in the meat, with a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup(No. 439), a glass of wine, and season it with salt. 

For increasing the _piquance_ of this soup, read No. 247. 

_Obs. _--See N. B. To No. 244; if the meat is cut off the bones, you musthave three tails for a tureen, see N. B. To No. 244: some put an ox-cheekor tails in an earthen pan, with all the ingredients as above, and sendthem to a slow oven for five or six hours. 

To stew ox-tails, see No. 531. 

_Ox-heel Soup_, --(No. 240*. )

Must be made the day before it is to be eaten. Procure an ox-heelundressed, or only scalded (not one that has been already boiled, asthey are at the tripe-shops, till almost all the gelatinous parts areextracted), and two that have been boiled as they usually are at thetripe-shops. 

Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls, and set it by ona plate; put the trimmings and bones into a stew-pan, with three quartsof water, and the unboiled heel cut into quarters; furnish a stew-panwith two onions, and two turnips pared and sliced; pare off the red partof a couple of large carrots, add a couple of eschalots cut in half, abunch of savoury or lemon-thyme, and double the quantity of parsley; setthis over, or by the side of a slow, steady fire, and keep it closelycovered and simmering very gently (or the soup liquor will evaporate)for at least seven hours: during which, take care to remove the fat andscum that will rise to the surface of the soup, which must be kept asclean as possible. 

Now strain the liquor through a sieve, and put two ounces of butter intoa clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir into it as much flour as willmake it a stiff paste; add to it by degrees the soup liquor; give it aboil up; strain it through a sieve, and put in the peel of a lemon paredas thin as possible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the meat of theboiled heels; let it go on simmering for half an hour longer, _i. E. _till the meat is tender. Put in the juice of a lemon, a glass of wine, and a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and the soup is ready for thetureen. 

_Obs. _ Those who are disposed to make this a more substantial dish, mayintroduce a couple of sets of goose or duck giblets, or ox-tails, or apound of veal cutlets, cut into mouthfuls. 

_Hare, Rabbit, or Partridge Soup. _--(No. 241. )

An old hare, or birds, when so tough as to defy the teeth in any otherform, will make very good soup. 

Cut off the legs and shoulders; divide the body crossways, and stew themvery gently in three quarts of water, with one carrot, about one ounceof onion, with four cloves, two blades of pounded mace, twenty-fourblack peppers, and a bundle of sweet herbs, till the hare is tender(most cooks add to the above a couple of slices of ham or bacon, and abay leaf, &c. , but my palate and purse both plead against suchextravagance; the hare makes sufficiently savoury soup without them):the time this will take depends very much upon its age, and how long ithas been kept before it is dressed: as a general rule, about threehours: in the mean time, make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat balls(as big as nutmegs) of No. 379; when the hare is quite tender, take themeat off the back, and the upper joint of the legs; cut it into neatmouthfuls, and lay it aside; cut the rest of the meat off the legs, shoulders, &c. , mince it and pound it in a mortar, with an ounce ofbutter, and two or three table-spoonfuls of flour moistened with alittle soup; rub this through a hair-sieve, and put it into the soup tothicken it; let it simmer slowly half an hour longer, skimming it well;put it through the tamis into the pan again; and put in the meat with aglass of claret or port wine, and a table-spoonful of currant jelly toeach quart of soup; season it with salt, put in the forcemeat balls, andwhen all is well warmed, the soup is ready. 

_Obs. _ Cold roast hare will make excellent soup. Chop it in pieces, andstew it in water (according to the quantity of hare) for about an hour, and manage it as in the above receipt: the stuffing of the hare will bea substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning. 

N. B. This soup may be made with mock hare, see No. 66. 

_Game Soup. _--(No. 242. )

In the game season, it is easy for a cook to give her master a very goodsoup at a very little expense, by taking all the meat off the breasts ofany cold birds which have been left the preceding day, and pounding itin a mortar, and beating to pieces the legs and bones, and boiling themin some broth for an hour. Boil six turnips; mash them, and strain themthrough a tamis-cloth with the meat that has been pounded in a mortar;strain your broth, and put a little of it at a time into the tamis tohelp you to strain all of it through. Put your soup-kettle near thefire, but do not let it boil: when ready to dish your dinner, have sixyelks of eggs mixed with half a pint of cream; strain through a sieve;put your soup on the fire, and as it is coming to boil, put in the eggs, and stir well with a wooden spoon: do not let it boil, or it willcurdle. 

_Goose or Duck Giblet Soup. _[216-*]--(No. 244. )

Scald and pick very clean a couple sets of goose, or four of duckgiblets (the fresher the better); wash them well in warm water, in twoor three waters; cut off the noses and split the heads; divide thegizzards and necks into mouthfuls. If the gizzards are not cut intopieces before they are done enough, the rest of the meat, &c. Will bedone too much; and knives and forks have no business in a soup-plate. Crack the bones of the legs, and put them into a stew-pan; cover themwith cold water: when they boil, take off the scum as it rises; thenput in a bundle of herbs, such as lemon-thyme, winter savoury, ormarjoram, about three sprigs of each, and double the quantity ofparsley, an onion, twenty berries of allspice, the same of black pepper;tie them all up in a muslin bag, and set them to stew very gently tillthe gizzards are tender: this will take from an hour and a half to twohours, according to the size and age of the giblets: take them up with askimmer, or a spoon full of holes, put them into the tureen, and coverdown close to keep warm till the soup is ready. 

To thicken the soup. Melt an ounce and a half of butter in a cleanstew-pan; stir in as much flour as will make it into a paste; then pourto it by degrees a ladleful of the giblet liquor; add the remainder bydegrees; let it boil about half an hour, stirring it all the while forfear it should burn; skim it, and strain it through a fine sieve into abasin; wash out the stew-pan; then return the soup into it, and seasonit with a glass of wine, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and alittle salt; let it have one boil up; and then put the giblets in to gethot, and the soup is ready. 

_Obs. _ Thus managed, one set of goose, or two of duck giblets (whichlatter may sometimes be had for 3_d. _), will make a quart of healthful, nourishing soup: if you think the giblets alone will not make the gravysavoury enough, add a pound of beef or mutton, or bone of a knuckle ofveal, and heighten its “_piquance_” by adding a few leaves of sweetbasil, the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon, and half a glass ofwine, and a little of No. 343* to each quart of soup. 

Those who are fond of forcemeat may slip the skin off the neck, and fillit with No. 378; tie up the other end tight; put it into the soup abouthalf an hour before you take it up, or make some nice savoury balls ofthe duck stuffing, No. 61. 

_Obs. _ Bespeak the giblets a couple of days before you desire to havethem: this is a favourite soup when the giblets are done till nicelytender, but yet not overboiled. Giblets may be had from July to January;the fresher they are the better. 

N. B. This is rather a family-dish than a company one; the bones cannotbe well picked without the help of alive pincers. 

Since Tom Coryat introduced forks, A. D. 1642, it has not been thefashion to put “pickers and stealers” into soup. 

_Mock Mock Turtle_, --(No. 245. )

_As made by_ Elizabeth Lister (_late cook to Dr. Kitchiner_), _bread and biscuit baker, No. 6 Salcombe Place, York Terrace, Regent’s Park. _ _Goes out to dress dinners on reasonable terms. _

Line the bottom of a stew-pan that will hold five pints, with an ounceof nice lean bacon or ham, a pound and a half of lean gravy beef, acow-heel, the inner rind of a carrot, a sprig of lemons-thyme, wintersavoury, three times the quantity of parsley, a few green leaves ofsweet basil, [218-*] and two eschalots; put in a large onion, with fourcloves stuck in it, eighteen corns of allspice, the same of blackpepper; pour on these a quarter of a pint of cold water, cover thestew-pan, and set it on a slow fire, to boil gently for a quarter of anhour; then, for fear the meat should catch, take off the cover, andwatch it; and when it has got a good brown colour, fill up the stew-panwith boiling water, and let it simmer very gently for two hours: if youwish to have the full benefit of the meat, only stew it till it is justtender, cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To thicken it, pour two or three table-spoonfuls of flour, a ladleful of the gravy, andstir it quick till it is well mixed; pour it back into the stew-panwhere the gravy is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour longer;skim it, and then strain it through a tamis into the stew-pan: cut thecow-heel into pieces about an inch square, squeeze through a sieve thejuice of a lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonfulof salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper, as much gratednutmeg as will lie on a sixpence, and a glass of Madeira or sherry wine;let it all simmer together for five minutes longer. 

Forcemeat or egg balls may be added if you please; you will find areceipt for these, No. 380, &c. 

⁂ A pound of veal cutlets, or the belly part of pickled pork, or nicedouble tripe cut into pieces about an inch square, and half an inchthick, and rounded and trimmed neatly from all skin, gristle, &c. Andstewed till they are tender, will be a great addition. 

_Mock Turtle_, --(No. 247. )

Is the “_bonne bouche_” which “the officers of the mouth” of oldEngland[219-*] prepare, when they choose to rival “_les grandscuisiniers de France_” in a “_ragoût sans pareil_. ”

The following receipt is an attempt (and the committee of tastepronounced it a successful one), to imitate the excellent and generallyapproved mock turtle made by Messrs. Birch, Cornhill. 

Endeavour to have the head and the broth ready for the soup, [219-+] theday before it is to be eaten. 

It will take eight hours to prepare it properly. 

 _hours. _ Cleaning and soaking the head 1 To parboil it to cut up 1 Cooling, nearly 1 Making the broth and finishing the soup 5 --- 8

Get a calf’s head with the skin on (the fresher the better); take outthe brains, wash the head several times in cold water, let it soak forabout an hour in spring-water, then lay it in a stew-pan, and cover itwith cold water, and half a gallon over; as it becomes warm, a greatdeal of scum will rise, which must be immediately removed; let it boilgently for one hour, take it up, and when almost cold, cut the head intopieces about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, and the tongueinto mouthfuls, or rather make a side-dish of the tongue and brains, asin No. 10. 

When the head is taken out, put in the stock meat, [219-++] about fivepounds of knuckle of veal, and as much beef; add to the stock all thetrimmings and bones of the head, skim it well, and then cover it close, and let it boil five hours (reserve a couple of quarts of this to makegravy sauces, &c. See No. 307); then strain it off, and let it standtill the next morning; then take off the fat, set a large stew-pan onthe fire with half a pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of onionssliced, and four ounces of green sage; chop it a little; let these fryone hour; then rub in half a pound of flour, and by degrees add yourbroth till it is the thickness of cream; season it with a quarter of anounce of ground allspice and half an ounce of black pepper ground veryfine, salt to your taste, and the rind of one lemon peeled very thin;let it simmer very gently for one hour and a half, then strain itthrough a hair-sieve; do not rub your soup to get it through the sieve, or it will make it grouty; if it does not run through easily, knock yourwooden-spoon against the side of your sieve; put it in a clean stew-panwith the head, and season it by adding to each gallon of soup half apint of wine; this should be Madeira, or, if you wish to darken thecolour of your soup, claret, and two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, seeNo. 407*; let it simmer gently till the meat is tender; this may takefrom half an hour to an hour: take care it is not over-done; stir itfrequently to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the stew-pan, and when the meat is quite tender the soup is ready. 

A head weighing twenty pounds, and ten pounds of stock meat, will maketen quarts of excellent soup, besides the two quarts of stock you haveput by for made dishes, &c. 

_Obs. _ If there is more meat on the head than you wish to put in thesoup, prepare it for a pie, and, with the addition of a calf’s footboiled tender, it will make an excellent ragoût pie; season it withzest, and a little minced onion, put in half a tea-cupful of stock, cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour: when the soup comes fromtable, if there is a deal of meat and no soup, put it into a pie-dish, season it a little, and add some little stock to it; then cover it withpaste, bake it one hour, and you have a good mock turtle pie. 

This soup was eaten by the committee of taste with unanimous applause, and they pronounced it a very satisfactory substitute[220-*] for “thefar-fetch’d and dear-bought” turtle; which is entirely indebted for itstitle of “sovereign of savouriness, ” to the rich soup with which it issurrounded. 

Without its paraphernalia of subtle double relishes, a “starved turtle, ”has not more intrinsic sapidity than a “fatted calf. ” Friendly reader, it is really neither half so wholesome, nor half so toothsome. SeeEssence of Turtle, No. 343*, and _Obs. _ to No. 493. To warm this soup, see No. 485. 

To season it, to each gallon of soup put two table-spoonfuls oflemon-juice, see No. 407*, same of mushroom catchup (No. 439), and oneof essence of anchovy (No. 433), half a pint of wine (this should beMadeira, or, if you wish to darken the colour of your soup, claret), atea-spoonful of curry powder (No. 455), or a quarter of a drachm ofCayenne, and the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible; let itsimmer five minutes more, take out the lemon-peel, and the soup is readyfor the tureen. 

While the soup is doing, prepare for each tureen a dozen and a half ofmock turtle forcemeat balls (to make these, see No. 375 or No. 376, No. 390 to No. 396); we prefer the stuffing ordered in No. 61, and a dozenegg balls; and put them into the tureen. Brain balls, or cakes, are avery elegant addition, and are made by boiling the brains for tenminutes, then putting them in cold water, and cutting them into piecesabout as big as a large nutmeg; take savoury, or lemon-thyme dried andfinely-powdered, nutmeg grated, and pepper and salt, and pound them alltogether; beat up an egg, dip the brains in it, and then roll them inthis mixture, and make as much of it as possible stick to them; dip themin the egg again, and then in finely-grated and sifted bread-crumbs; frythem in hot fat, and send them up as a side-dish. 

A veal sweetbread, prepared as in No. 89, not too much done or it willbreak, cut into pieces the same size as you cut the calf’s head, and putin the soup, just to get warm before it goes to table, is a superb“_bonne bouche_;” and pickled tongue, stewed till very tender, and cutinto mouthfuls, is a favourite addition. We order the meat to be cutinto mouthfuls, that it may be eaten with a spoon: the knife and forkhave no business in a soup-plate. 

⁂ Some of our culinary contemporaries order the haut goût of this (asabove directed, sufficiently relishing) soup to be combustibled andbedevilled with a copious addition of anchovies, mushrooms, truffles, morelles, curry-powder, artichoke bottoms, salmon’s head and liver, orthe soft part of oysters or lobsters, soles cut in mouthfuls, a bottleof Madeira, a pint of brandy, &c. ; and to complete their surfeiting andburn-gullet olio, they put in such a tremendous quantity of Cayennepepper, that only a fire-proof palate, lined with asbestos, or induratedby Indian diet, can endure it. See note under No. 493. 

N. B. In helping this soup, the distributer of it should serve out themeat, forcemeat, and gravy, in equal parts; however trifling or needlessthis remark may appear, the writer has often suffered from the want ofsuch a hint being given to the soup-server, who has sometimes sent aplate of mere gravy without meat, at others, of meat without gravy, andsometimes scarcely any thing but forcemeat balls. 

_Obs. _ This is a delicious soup, within the reach of those who “eat tolive;” but if it had been composed expressly for those who only “live toeat, ” I do not know how it could have been made more agreeable: as itis, the lover of good eating will “wish his throat a mile long, andevery inch of it palate. ”

N. B. Cucumber in a side-plate is a laudable vegetable accompaniment. 

_English Turtle. _--(No. 248. )

See No. 502. “A-la-mode beef. ”

_Curry, or Mullaga-tawny[222-*] Soup. _--(No. 249. )

Cut four pounds of a breast of veal into pieces, about two inches byone; put the trimmings into a stew-pan with two quarts of water, withtwelve corns of black pepper, and the same of allspice; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a half, then strain it off;while it is boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the bits of veal andfour onions; when they are done, put the broth to them; put it on thefire; when it boils, skim it clean; let it simmer half an hour; thenmix two spoonfuls of curry, and the same of flour, with a little coldwater and a tea-spoonful of salt; add these to the soup, and simmer itgently till the veal is quite tender, and it is ready; or bone a coupleof fowls or rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed above for theveal, and you may put in a bruised eschalot, and some mace and ginger, instead of black pepper and allspice. 

_Obs. _ Read No. 497. 

_Turtle[223-*] Soup. _--(No. 250. )

As it is our wish that this work should be given to the public at thelowest possible price, the receipt for dressing a turtle is taken out, as a professed cook is always hired for the purpose of dressing it. Thespace this long receipt occupied is now filled with directions formaking useful pickles. See No. 462. 

_Portable[223-+] Soup, or Glaze. _--(No. 252. )

Desire the butcher to break the bones of a leg or a shin of beef, of tenpounds weight (the fresher killed the better); put it into a soup-pot (adigester[223-++] is the best utensil for this purpose) that will wellhold it; just cover it with cold water, and set it on the fire to heatgradually till it nearly boils (this should be at least an hour); skimit attentively while any scum rises; pour in a little cold water, tothrow up the scum that may remain; let it come to a boil again, andagain skim it carefully: when no more scum rises, and the broth appearsclear (put in neither roots, nor herbs, nor salt), let it boil for eightor ten hours, and then strain it through a hair-sieve into a brown stonepan; set the broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into asieve, let it drain, make potted beef (No. 503), or it will be veryacceptable to many poor families. Next day remove every particle of fatfrom the top of it, and pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, asquietly as possible, into a stew-pan, taking care not to let any of thesettlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the stew-pan, whichshould be of thick copper, perfectly well tinned; add a quarter of anounce of whole black pepper to it; let it boil briskly, with thestew-pan uncovered, on a quick fire; if any scum rises, take it off witha skimmer: when it begins to thicken, and is reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stew-pan; set it over a gentler fire, till it isreduced to the thickness of a very thick syrup; take care that it doesnot burn, a moment’s inattention now will lose you all your labour, andthe soup will be spoiled: take a little of it out in a spoon and let itcool; if it sets into a strong jelly, it is done enough; if it does not, boil it a little longer till it does; have ready some little pots, suchas are used for potted meats, about an inch and a half deep, taking carethat they are quite dry; we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if itis for home consumption (the less it is reduced, the better is theflavour of the soup), if it be sufficiently concentrated to keep for sixmonths; if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into such bladders asare used for German sausages, or if you prefer it in the form of cakes, pour it into a dish about a quarter of an inch deep; when it is cold, turn it out and weigh the cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter intopieces of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a warm room, and turn them frequently till they are thoroughly dried; this will takea week or ten days; turn them twice a day; when well hardened, and keptin a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any climate. 

This extract of meat makes excellent “_tablettes de Bouillon_, ” forthose who are obliged to endure long fasting. 

If the surface becomes mouldy, wipe it with a little warm water; themouldy taste does not penetrate the mass. 

If, after several days’ drying, it does not become so hard as you wish, put it into a bainmarie stew-pan, or milk-boiler, till it is evaporatedto the consistence you wish; or, set the pots in a cool oven, or in acheese-toaster, at a considerable distance from the fire: this is theonly safe way of reducing it very much, without the risk of its burning, and acquiring an extremely disagreeable, acrid flavour, &c. 

_Obs. _ The uses of this concentrated essence of meat are numerous. It isequally economical and convenient for making extempore broths enumeratedin the _Obs. _ to No. 200, sauces and gravies for hashed or stewed meat, game, or poultry, &c. 

You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in No. 329; to make gravy, sauces, &c. Take double the quantity ordered for broth. 

If you have time and opportunity, as there is no seasoning in the soup, either of roots, herbs, or spice, boil an onion with or without a bit ofparsley and sweet herbs, and a few corns of allspice, or other spice, inthe water you melt the soup in, which may be flavoured with mushroomcatchup (No. 439), or eschalot wine (No. 402), essence of sweet herbs(No. 417), savoury spice (No. 421, or No. 457), essence of celery (No. 409), &c. Or zest (No. 255); these may be combined in the proportionsmost agreeable to the palate of the eater, and are as portable asportable soup, for a very small portion will flavour a pint. 

The editor adds nothing to the solution of this soup, but a very littleground black pepper and some salt. 

N. B. If you are a careful manager, you need not always purchase meat onpurpose to make this; when you dress a large dinner, you can make glazeat very small cost, by taking care of the trimmings and parings of themeat, game, and poultry, you use: wash them well, put them into astew-pan, cover them with the liquor you have boiled meat in, andproceed as in the above receipt; and see _Obs. _ on No. 185. 

MEM. This portable soup is a most convenient article in cookery;especially in small families, where it will save a great deal of timeand trouble. It is also economical, for no more will be melted than iswanted; so there is no waste. 

Nine pounds of neck of beef, costing 2_s. _ 7-1/2_d. _ produced nineounces of very nice soup; the bones, when boiled, weighed ten ounces. 

Half an ox-cheek, costing 1_s. _ 9_d. _ and weighing 14-3/4 pounds, produced thirteen ounces; but not so firm or clear, and far inferior inflavour to that obtained from a shin of beef. 

A sheep’s head, costing 9_d. _, produced three ounces and a half. 

Two pounds of lean meat, from the blade-bone of beef, produced hardly anounce. 

The addition of an ounce of gum arabic, and two ounces of isinglass, tofour ounces of the extract from a leg of beef, considerably diminishedthe consistence of the mass, without adding to its bulk. 

It has been thought that the portable soup which is manufactured forsale, is partly made with ox-heels; but the experiment (No. 198) provesthis cannot be, as an ounce of the jelly from ox-heel costs 5_d. _ Forthe cheapest method of procuring a hard jelly, see N. B. To No. 481;nineteen bones, costing 4-1/2_d. _ produced three ounces: almost as cheapas Salisbury glue. 

A knuckle of veal, weighing 4-3/4 pounds, and costing 2_s. _ 4_d. _produced five ounces. 

A shin of beef, weighing nine pounds, and costing 1_s. _ 10-1/2_d. _produced nine ounces of concentrated soup, sufficiently reduced to keepfor several months. After the boiling, the bones in this joint weighedtwo pounds and a quarter, and the meat two pounds and a quarter. 

The result of these experiments is, that the product from legs and shinsof beef was almost as large in quantity, and of much superior qualityand flavour, as that obtained from any of the other materials; theflavour of the product from mutton, veal, &c. Is comparatively insipid. 

As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality, and wecould not find any proper and circumstantial directions for making it, which, on trial, answered the purpose, and it is really a greatacquisition to the army and navy, to travellers, invalids, &c. Theeditor has bestowed some time, &c. In endeavouring to learn, and toteach, how it may be prepared in the easiest, most economical, andperfect manner. 

The ordinary selling price is from 10_s. _ to 12_s. _, but you may make itaccording to the above receipt for 3_s. _ 6_d. _ per pound, _i. E. _ for2-1/2_d. _ per ounce, which will make you a pint of broth. 

Those who do not regard the expense, and like the flavour, may add thelean of ham, in the proportion of a pound to eight pounds of leg ofbeef. 

It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the time you put the brothinto the smaller stew-pan, mushroom catchup, eschalot wine, essences ofspice or herbs, &c. ; we prefer it quite plain; it is then ready to beconverted, in an instant, into a basin of beef tea, for an invalid, andany flavour may be immediately communicated to it by the magazine oftaste (No. 462). 

_To clarify Broth or Gravy. _--(No. 252*. )

Put on the broth in a clean stew-pan; break the white and shell of anegg, beat them together, put them into the broth, stir it with a whisk;when it has boiled a few minutes, strain it through a tamis or a napkin. 

_Obs. _ A careful cook will seldom have occasion to clarify her broths, &c. If prepared according to the directions given in No. 200. 

FOOTNOTES:

[193-*] In culinary technicals, is called FIRST STOCK, or long broth; inthe French kitchen, “_le grand bouillon_. ”

[193-+] A dog was fed on the richest broth, yet could not be kept alive;while another, which had only the meat boiled to a chip (and water), throve very well. This shows the folly of attempting to nourish men byconcentrated soups, jellies, &c. --SINCLAIR, _Code of Health_, p. 356. 

If this experiment be accurate, what becomes of the theoretic visions ofthose who have written about nourishing broths, &c. ? The best test ofthe restorative quality of food, is a small quantity of it satisfyinghunger, the strength of the pulse after it, and the length of time whichelapses before appetite returns again. According to this rule, we giveour verdict in favour of No. 19 or 24. See N. B. To No. 181. 

This subject is fully discussed in _The Art of Invigorating andProlonging Life, by Diet_, &c. Published by G. B. Whittaker, 13Ave-Maria lane. 

[194-*] Called, in some cookery books, “SECOND STOCK;” in the Frenchkitchen, “_jus de bœuf_. ”

[194-+] A great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of puttingin the water: if it is poured in too soon, the gravy will not have itstrue flavour and colour: and if it be let alone till the meat sticks tothe pan, it will get a burnt taste. 

[195-*] Truffles, morells, and mushrooms, catchups and wines, &c. Areadded by those who are for the extreme of _haut goût_. 

[195-+] The general rule is to put in about a pint of water to a poundof meat, if it only simmers very gently. 

[195-++] A tamis is a worsted cloth, sold at the oil shops, made onpurpose for straining sauces: the best way for using it is for twopeople to twist it contrary ways. This is a better way of strainingsauce than through a sieve, and refines it much more completely. 

[197-*] By this method, it is said, an ingenious cook long deceived alarge family, who were all fond of weak mutton broth. Mushroom gravy, orcatchup (No. 439), approaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy, morethan any vegetable juice, and is the best substitute for it in maigresoups and extempore sauces, that culinary chemistry has yet produced. 

[200-*] See “_L’Art de Cuisinier_, ” par A. Beauvillier, Paris, 1814, p. 68. “I have learned by experience, that of all the fats that are usedfor frying, the _pot top_ which is taken from the surface of the brothand stock-pot is by far the best. ”

[203-*] To make pease pottage, double the quantity. Those who often makepease soup should have a mill, and grind the pease just before theydress them; a less quantity will suffice, and the soup will be muchsooner made. 

[204-*] If the liquor is very salt, the pease will never boil tender. Therefore, when you make pease soup with the liquor in which salted porkor beef has been boiled, tie up the pease in a cloth, and boil themfirst for an hour in soft water. 

[204-+] Half a drachm of celery-seed, pounded fine, and put into thesoup a quarter of an hour before it is finished, will flavour threequarts. 

[204-++] Some put in dried mint rubbed to fine powder; but as every bodydoes not like mint, it is best to send it up on a plate. See peasepowder, No. 458, essence of celery, No. 409, and Nos. 457 and 459. 

[205-*] My witty predecessor, Dr. HUNTER (see _Culina_, page 97), says, “If a proper quantity of curry-powder (No. 455) be added to pease soup, a good soup might be made, under the title of _curry pease soup_. Heliogabalus offered rewards for the discovery of a new dish, and theBritish Parliament have given notoriety to inventions of much lessimportance than ‘curry pease soup. ’”

N. B. Celery, or carrots, or turnips, shredded, or cut in squares (orScotch barley, --in the latter case the soup must be rather thinner), orcut into bits about an inch long, and boiled separately, and thrown intothe tureen when the soup is going to table, will give another agreeablevariety, and may be called _celery and pease soup_. Read _Obs. _ to No. 214

[207-*] The French call this “_soup maigre_;” the English acceptation ofwhich is “_poor and watery_, ” and does not at all accord with theFrench, which is, soups, &c. Made without meat: thus, turtle, therichest dish that comes to an English table (if dressed without meatgravy), is a maigre dish. 

[209-*] We copied the following receipt from _The Morning Post_, Jan. 1820. 

WINTER SOUP. --(No. 227. )

 210 lbs of beef, fore-quarters, 90 lbs. Of legs of beef, 3 bushels of best split pease, 1 bushel of flour, 12 bundles of leeks, 6 bundles of celery, 12 lbs. Of salt, 11 lbs. Of black pepper. 

These good ingredients will make 1000 quarts of nourishing and agreeablesoup, at an expense (establishment avoided) of little less than2-1/2_d. _ per quart. 

Of this, 2600 quarts a day have been delivered during the late inclementweather, and the cessation of ordinary employment, at two stations inthe parish of Bermondsey, at one penny per quart, by which 600 familieshave been daily assisted, and it thankfully received. Such a nourishmentand comfort could not have been provided by themselves separately forfourpence a quart, if at all, and reckoning little for their fire, nothing for their time. 

[211-*] Read No. 176. 

[214-*] Some lovers of _haut goût_ fry the tails before they put theminto the soup-pot. 

[216-*] Fowls’ or turkeys’ heads make good and cheap soup in the samemanner. 

[218-*] To this fine aromatic herb, turtle soup is much indebted for itsspicy flavour, and the high esteem it is held in by the good citizens ofLondon, who, I believe, are pretty generally of the same opinion as Dr. Salmon. See his “_Household Dictionary and Essay on Cookery_, ” 8vo. London, 1710, page 34, article ‘Basil. ’ “This comforts the heart, expelsmelancholy, and cleanses the lungs. ” See No. 307. “This plant gave thepeculiar flavour to the _original Fetter-lane sausages_. ”--GRAY’S_Supplement to the Pharmacopœia_, 8vo. 1821 p. 52. 

[219-*] “Tout le monde sait que tous les ragoûts qui portent le nom deTORTUE, sont d’origine Anglaise. ”--_Manuel des Amphitryons_, 8vo. 1808, p. 229. 

[219-+] Those who do not like the trouble, &c. Of making mock turtle, may be supplied with it ready made, in high perfection, at BIRCH’S, inCornhill. It is not poisoned with Cayenne pepper, which the turtle andmock turtle soup of most pastry cooks and tavern cooks is, and to thatdegree, that it acts like a blister on the coats of the stomach. Thisprevents our mentioning any other maker of this soup, which is oftenmade with cow-heel, or the mere scalp of the calf’s head, instead of thehead itself. 

The following are Mr. Birch’s directions for warming this soup:--Emptythe turtle into a broad earthen vessel, to keep cool: when wanted fortable, to two quarts of soup add one gill of boiling water or vealbroth, put it over a good, clear fire, keeping it gently stirred (thatit may not burn); when it has boiled about three minutes, skim it, andput it in the tureen. 

N. B. The broth or water, and the wine, to be put into the stew-panbefore you put in the turtle. 

[219-++] The reader may have remarked, that mock turtle and potted beefalways come in season together. 

See _Obs. _ to No. 503*. This gravy meat will make an excellent savourypotted relish, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the herbsand spice that are boiled with it. 

[220-*] “Many _gourmets_ and gastrologers prefer the copy to theoriginal: we confess that when done as it ought to be, the mock turtleis exceedingly interesting. ”--_Tabella Cibaria_, 1820, p. 30. 

“Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country, in which case the soup would be incomparably improved by leaving outthe turtle, and substituting a good calf’s head. ”--_Supplement toEncyc. Brit. Edinburgh_, vol. Iv. P. 331. 

[Very fine fat turtles are brought to New-York from the West Indies;and, during the warm weather, kept in crawls till wanted: of these theymake soup, which surpasses any mock turtle ever made. A. ]

[222-*] _Mullaga-tawny_ signifies pepper water. The progress ofinexperienced peripatetic palaticians has lately been arrested by theseoutlandish words being pasted on the windows of our coffee-houses. Ithas, we believe, answered the “_restaurateur’s_” purpose, and oftenexcited JOHN BULL to walk in and taste: the more familiar name of currysoup would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty toseduce him from his much-loved mock turtle. 

It is a fashionable soup, and a great favourite with our East Indianfriends, and we give the best receipt we could procure for it. 

[223-*] “The usual allowance at a turtle feast is six pounds live weightper head: at the Spanish dinner, at the City of London Tavern, inAugust, 1808, 400 guests attended, and 2500 pounds of turtle wereconsumed. ”--See BELL’S _Weekly Messenger_ for August 7th, 1808. 

_Epicure_ QUIN used to say, it was “not safe to sit down to a turtlefeast at one of the City Halls, without a basket-hilted knife and fork. ”

We recommend our friends, before encountering such a temptation, to readour peptic precepts. Nothing is more difficult of digestion, or oftenerrequires the aid of peristaltic persuaders, than the glutinous callipashwhich is considered the “_bonne bouche_” of this soup. Turtle isgenerally spoiled by being over-dressed. 

[In Philadelphia, an excellent turtle soup is made of a small nativetortoise, called a _terrapin_, and the article _terrapin soup_. A. ]

[223-+] “A pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter;it thence follows, that 1500 pounds of the same meat, which is the wholeweight of a bullock, would give only 94 pounds, which might be easilycontained in an earthen jar. ”--Dr. HUTTON’S _Rational Recreations_, vol. Iv. P. 194. 

In what degree portable or other soup be nutritious, we know not, butrefer the reader to our note under No. 185. 

[223-++] This machine was invented by Dr. Denys Papin, F. R. S. , about theyear 1631, as appears by his essay on “_The New Digester, or Engine forSoftening Bones_;” “by the help of which (he says) the oldest andhardest cow-beef may be made as tender and as savoury as young andchoice meat. ”

Although we have not yet found that they do what Dr. Papin says, “makeold and tough meat young and tender, ” they are, however, excellentthings to make broths and soups in. Among a multitude of other admirableexcellencies obtainable by his digester, Dr. Papin, in his 9th chapter, page 54, on the profit that a good engine may come to, says, “I havefound that an _old hat_, very bad and loosely made, having imbibed thejelly of bones became very firm and stiff. ”

GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

_Melted Butter, _

Is so simple and easy to prepare, that it is a matter of generalsurprise, that what is done so often in every English kitchen, is soseldom done right: foreigners may well say, that although we have onlyone sauce for vegetables, fish, flesh, fowl, &c. We hardly ever makethat good. 

It is spoiled nine times out of ten, more from idleness than fromignorance, and rather because the cook won’t than because she can’t doit; which can only be the case when housekeepers will not allow butterto do it with. 

Good melted butter cannot be made with mere flour and water; there mustbe a full and proper proportion of butter. As it must be always on thetable, and is the foundation of almost all our English sauces, we have, Melted butter and oysters, ---- ---- ---- parsley, ---- ---- ---- anchovies, ---- ---- ---- eggs, ---- ---- ---- shrimps, ---- ---- ---- lobsters, ---- ---- ---- capers, &c. &c. &c. 

I have tried every way of making it; and I trust, at last, that I havewritten a receipt, which, if the cook will carefully observe, she willconstantly succeed in giving satisfaction. 

In the quantities of the various sauces I have ordered, I have had inview the providing for a family of half-a-dozen moderate people. 

Never pour sauce over meat, or even put it into the dish, however wellmade, some of the company may have an antipathy to it; tastes are asdifferent as faces: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a boat, itwill keep hot longer, and what is left may be put by for another time, or used for another purpose. 

_Lastly. _ Observe, that in ordering the proportions of meat, butter, wine, spice, &c. In the following receipts, the proper quantity is setdown, and that a less quantity will not do; and in some instances thosepalates which have been used to the extreme of _piquance_, will requireadditional excitement. [228-*] If we have erred, it has been on the rightside, from an anxious wish to combine economy with elegance, and thewholesome with the toothsome. 

_Melted Butter. _

Keep a pint stew-pan[228-+] for this purpose only. 

Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it may melt more easily, and mix more readily; put it into the stew-pan with a large tea-spoonful(_i. E. _ about three drachms) of flour, (some prefer arrow-root, orpotato starch, No. 448), and two table-spoonfuls of milk. 

When thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls of water; hold it overthe fire, and shake it round every minute (all the while the same way), till it just begins to simmer; then let it stand quietly and boil up. Itshould be of the thickness of good cream. 

N. B. Two table-spoonfuls of No. 439, instead of the milk, will make asgood mushroom sauce as need be, and is a superlative accompaniment toeither fish, flesh, or fowl. 

_Obs. _ This is the best way of preparing melted butter; milk mixes withthe butter much more easily and more intimately than water alone can bemade to do. This is of proper thickness to be mixed at table withflavouring essences, anchovy, mushroom, or cavice, &c. If made merelyto pour over vegetables, add a little more milk to it. 

N. B. If the butter oils, put a spoonful of cold water to it, and stir itwith a spoon; if it is very much oiled, it must be poured backwards andforwards from the stew-pan to the sauce-boat till it is right again. 

MEM. Melted butter made to be mixed with flavouring essences, catchups, &c. Should be of the thickness of light batter, that it may adhere tothe fish, &c. 

_Thickening. _--(No. 257. )

Clarified butter is best for this purpose; but if you have none ready, put some fresh butter into a stew-pan over a slow, clear fire; when itis melted, add fine flour sufficient to make it the thickness of paste;stir it well together with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, till it is quite smooth, and the colour of a guinea: this must be donevery gradually and patiently; if you put it over too fierce a fire tohurry it, it will become bitter and empyreumatic: pour it into anearthen pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a fortnight insummer, and longer in winter. 

A large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken a quart of gravy. 

_Obs. _ This, in the French kitchen, is called _roux_. Be particularlyattentive in making it; if it gets any burnt smell or taste, it willspoil every thing it is put into, see _Obs. _ to No. 322. When cold, itshould be thick enough to cut out with a knife, like a solid paste. 

It is a very essential article in the kitchen, and is the basis ofconsistency in most made-dishes, soups, sauces, and ragoûts; if thegravies, &c. Are too thin, add this thickening, more or less, accordingto the consistence you would wish them to have. 

MEM. In making thickening, the less butter, and the more flour you use, the better; they must be thoroughly worked together, and the broth, orsoup, &c. You put them to, added by degrees: take especial care toincorporate them well together, or your sauces, &c. Will taste floury, and have a disgusting, greasy appearance: therefore, after you havethickened your sauce, add to it some broth, or warm water, in theproportion of two table-spoonfuls to a pint, and set it by the side ofthe fire, to raise any fat, &c. That is not thoroughly incorporated withthe gravy, which you must carefully remove as it comes to the top. Thisis called cleansing, or finishing the sauce. 

⁂ Half an ounce of butter, and a table-spoonful of flour, are about theproportion for a pint of sauce to make it as thick as cream. 

N. B. The fat skimmings off the top of the broth pot are sometimessubstituted for butter (see No. 240); some cooks merely thicken theirsoups and sauces with flour, as we have directed in No. 245, or potatofarina, No. 448. 

_Clarified Butter. _--(No. 259. )

Put the butter in a nice, clean stew-pan, over a very clear, slow fire;watch it, and when it is melted, carefully skim off the buttermilk, &c. Which will swim on the top; let it stand a minute or two for theimpurities to sink to the bottom; then pour the clear butter through asieve into a clean basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom of thestew-pan. 

_Obs. _ Butter thus purified will be as sweet as marrow, a very usefulcovering for potted meats, &c. , and for frying fish equal to the finestFlorence oil; for which purpose it is commonly used by Catholics, andthose whose religious tenets will not allow them to eat viands fried inanimal oil. 

_Burnt Butter. _--(No. 260. )

Put two ounces of fresh butter into a small frying-pan; when it becomesa dark brown colour, add to it a table-spoonful and a half of goodvinegar, and a little pepper and salt. 

_Obs. _ This is used as sauce for boiled fish, or poached eggs. 

_Oiled Butter. _--(No. 260*. )

Put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan; set it at a distancefrom the fire, so that it may melt gradually, till it comes to an oil;and pour it off quietly from the dregs. 

_Obs. _ This will supply the place of olive oil; and by some is preferredto it either for salads or frying. 

_Parsley and Butter. _--(No. 261. )

Wash some parsley very clean, and pick it carefully leaf by leaf; put atea-spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling water: boil the parsleyabout ten minutes; drain it on a sieve; mince it quite fine, and thenbruise it to a pulp. 

The delicacy and excellence of this elegant and innocent relish dependsupon the parsley being minced very fine: put it into a sauce-boat, andmix with it, by degrees, about half a pint of good melted butter (No. 256); only do not put so much flour to it, as the parsley will add toits thickness: never pour parsley and butter over boiled things, butsend it up in a boat. 

_Obs. _ In French cookery-books this is called “melted butter, Englishfashion;” and, with the addition of a slice of lemon cut into dice, alittle allspice and vinegar, “Dutch sauce. ”

N. B. To preserve parsley through the winter: in May, June, or July, takefine fresh-gathered sprigs; pick, and wash them clean; set on a stew-panhalf full of water; put a little salt in it; boil, and skim it clean, and then put in the parsley, and let it boil for a couple of minutes;take it out, and lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may be driedas quick as possible; put it by in a tin box, and keep it in a dryplace: when you want it, lay it in a basin, and cover it with warm watera few minutes before you use it. 

_Gooseberry Sauce. _--(No. 263. )

Top and tail them close with a pair of scissors, and scald half a pintof green gooseberries; drain them on a hair-sieve, and put them intohalf a pint of melted butter, No. 256. 

Some add grated ginger and lemon-peel, and the French, minced fennel;others send up the gooseberries whole or mashed, without any butter, &c. 

_Chervil, Basil, Tarragon, Burnet, Cress, and Butter. _--(No. 264. )

This is the first time that chervil, which has so long been a favouritewith the sagacious French cook, has been introduced into an Englishbook. Its flavour is a strong concentration of the combined taste ofparsley and fennel, but more aromatic and agreeable than either; and isan excellent sauce with boiled poultry or fish. Prepare it, &c. As wehave directed for parsley and butter, No. 261. 

_Fennel and Butter for Mackerel, &c. _--(No. 265. )

Is prepared in the same manner as we have just described in No. 261. 

_Obs. _ For mackerel sauce, or boiled soles, &c. , some people take equalparts of fennel and parsley; others add a sprig of mint, or a couple ofyoung onions minced very fine. 

_Mackerel-roe Sauce. _--(No. 266. )

Boil the roes of mackerel (soft roes are best); bruise them with a spoonwith the yelk of an egg, beat up with a very little pepper and salt, andsome fennel and parsley boiled and chopped very fine, mixed with almosthalf a pint of thin melted butter. See No. 256. 

Mushroom catchup, walnut pickle, or soy may be added. 

_Egg Sauce. _--(No. 267. )

This agreeable accompaniment to roasted poultry, or salted fish, is madeby putting three eggs into boiling water, and boiling them for abouttwelve minutes, when they will be hard; put them into cold water tillyou want them. This will make the yelks firmer, and prevent theirsurface turning black, and you can cut them much neater: use only two ofthe whites; cut the whites into small dice, the yelks into bits about aquarter of an inch square; put them into a sauce-boat; pour to them halfa pint of melted butter, and stir them together. 

_Obs. _ The melted butter for egg sauce need not be made quite so thickas No. 256. If you are for superlative egg sauce, pound the yelks of acouple of eggs, and rub them with the melted butter to thicken it. 

N. B. Some cooks garnish salt fish with hard-boiled eggs cut in half. 

_Plum-pudding Sauce. _--(No. 269. )

A glass of sherry, half a glass of brandy (or “cherry-bounce”), orCuraçoa (No. 474), or essence of punch (Nos. 471 and 479), and twotea-spoonfuls of pounded lump sugar (a very little grated lemon-peel issometimes added), in a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter: gratenutmeg on the top. 

See Pudding Catchup, No. 446. 

_Anchovy Sauce. _--(No. 270. )

Pound three anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of butter; rub itthrough a double hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir itinto almost half a pint of melted butter (No. 256); or stir in atable-spoonful of essence of anchovy, No. 433. To the above, many cooksadd lemon-juice and Cayenne. 

_Obs. _ Foreigners make this sauce with good brown sauce (No. 329), orwhite sauce (No. 364); instead of melted butter, add to it catchup, soy, and some of their flavoured vinegars, (as elder or tarragon), pepper andfine spice, sweet herbs, capers, eschalots, &c. They serve it with mostroasted meats. 

N. B. Keep your anchovies well covered; first tie down your jar withbladder moistened with vinegar, and then wiped dry; tie leather overthat: when you open a jar, moisten the bladder, and it will come offeasily; as soon as you have taken out the fish, replace the coverings;the air soon rusts and spoils anchovies. See No. 433, &c. 

_Garlic Sauce. _--(No. 272. )

Pound two cloves of garlic with a piece of fresh butter, about as big asa nutmeg; rub it through a double hair-sieve, and stir it into half apint of melted butter, or beef gravy or make it with garlic vinegar, Nos. 400, 401, and 402. 

_Lemon Sauce. _--(No. 273. )

Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-crownpiece; divide these into dice, and put them into a quarter of a pint ofmelted butter, No. 256. 

_Obs. _--Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon-peel (pared very thin) veryfine, and add it to the above. 

_Caper Sauce. _--(No. 274. See also No. 295. )

To make a quarter of a pint, take a table-spoonful of capers, and twotea-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

The present fashion of cutting capers is to mince one-third of them veryfine, and divide the others in half; put them into a quarter of a pintof melted butter, or good thickened gravy (No. 329); stir them the sameway as you did the melted butter, or it will oil. 

_Obs. _--Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of parsley, or chervil, or tarragon, and add these to the sauce; others the juice of half aSeville orange, or lemon. 

_Mem. _--Keep the caper bottle very closely corked, and do not use any ofthe caper liquor: if the capers are not well covered with it, they willimmediately spoil; and it is an excellent ingredient in hashes, &c. TheDutch use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with melted butter. 

_Mock Caper Sauce. _--(No. 275, or No. 295. )

Cut some pickled green pease, French beans, gherkins, or nasturtiums, into bits the size of capers; put them into half a pint of meltedbutter, with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, or nice vinegar. 

_Oyster Sauce. _--(No. 278. )

Choose plump and juicy natives for this purpose: don’t take them out oftheir shell till you put them into the stew-pan, see _Obs. _ to No. 181. 

To make good oyster sauce for half a dozen hearty fish-eaters, youcannot have less than three or four dozen oysters. Save their liquor;strain it, and put it and them into a stew-pan: as soon as they boil, and the fish plump, take them off the fire, and pour the contents of thestew-pan into a sieve over a clean basin; wash the stew-pan out with hotwater, and put into it the strained liquor, with about an equal quantityof milk, and about two ounces and a half of butter, with which you havewell rubbed a large table-spoonful of flour; give it a boil up, and pourit through a sieve into a basin (that the sauce may be quite smooth), and then back again into the saucepan; now shave the oysters, and (ifyou have the honour of making sauce for “a committee of taste, ” takeaway the gristly part also) put in only the soft part of them: if theyare very large, cut them in half, and set them by the fire to keep hot:“if they boil after, they will become hard. ”

If you have not liquor enough, add a little melted butter, or cream (seeNo. 388), or milk beat up with the yelk of an egg (this must not be putin till the sauce is done). Some barbarous cooks add pepper, or mace, the juice or peel of a lemon, horseradish, essence of anchovy, Cayenne, &c. : plain sauces are only to taste of the ingredient from which theyderive their name. 

_Obs. _--It will very much heighten the flavour of this sauce to poundthe soft part of half a dozen (unboiled) oysters; rub it through ahair-sieve, and then stir it into the sauce: this essence of oyster (andfor some palates a few grains of Cayenne) is the only addition werecommend. See No. 441. 

_Preserved Oysters. _[234-*]--(No. 280. )

Open the oysters carefully, so as not to cut them except in dividing thegristle which attaches the shells; put them into a mortar, and when youhave got as many as you can conveniently pound at once, add about twodrachms of salt to a dozen oysters; pound them, and rub them throughthe back of a hair-sieve, and put them into a mortar again, with asmuch flour (which has been previously thoroughly dried) as will makethem into a paste; roll it out several times, and, lastly, flour it, androll it out the thickness of a half-crown, and divide it into piecesabout an inch square; lay them in a Dutch oven, where they will dry sogently as not to get burnt: turn them every half hour, and when theybegin to dry, crumble them; they will take about four hours to dry; thenpound them fine, sift them, and put them into bottles, and seal themover. 

N. B. Three dozen of natives required 7-1/2 ounces of dried flour to makethem into a paste, which then weighed 11 ounces; when dried andpowdered, 6-1/4 ounces. 

To make half a pint of sauce, put one ounce of butter into a stew-panwith three drachms of oyster powder, and six table-spoonfuls of milk;set it on a slow fire; stir it till it boils, and season it with salt. 

This powder, if made with plump, juicy natives, will abound with theflavour of the fish; and if closely corked, and kept in a dry place, will remain good for some time. 

_Obs. _--This extract is a welcome succedaneum while oysters are out ofseason, and in such inland parts as seldom have any, is a valuableaddition to the list of fish sauces: it is equally good with boiledfowl, or rump steak, and sprinkled on bread and butter makes a very goodsandwich, and is especially worthy the notice of country housekeepers, and as a store sauce for the army and navy. See Anchovy Powder, No. 435. 

_Shrimp Sauce. _--(No. 283. )

Shell a pint of shrimps; pick them clean, wash them, and put them intohalf a pint of good melted butter. A pint of unshelled shrimps is aboutenough for four persons. 

_Obs. _--Some stew the heads and shells of the shrimps, (with or withouta blade of bruised mace, ) for a quarter of an hour, and strain off theliquor to melt the butter with, and add a little lemon-juice, Cayenne, and essence of anchovy, or soy, cavice, &c. ; but the flavour of theshrimp is so delicate, that it will be overcome by any such additions. 

MEM. --If your shrimps are not quite fresh, they will eat tough andthready, as other stale fish do. See _Obs. _ to No. 140. 

_Lobster Sauce. _--(No. 284. )

Choose a fine spawny hen lobster;[236-*] be sure it is fresh, so get alive one if you can, (one of my culinary predecessors says, “let it beheavy and lively, ”) and boil it as No. 176; pick out the spawn and thered coral into a mortar, add to it half an ounce of butter, pound itquite smooth, and rub it through a hair-sieve with the back of a woodenspoon; cut the meat of the lobster into small squares, or pull it topieces with a fork; put the pounded spawn into as much melted butter(No. 256) as you think will do, and stir it together till it isthoroughly mixed; now put to it the meat of the lobster, and warm it onthe fire; take care it does not boil, which will spoil its complexion, and its brilliant red colour will immediately fade. 

The above is a very easy and excellent manner of making this sauce. 

Some use strong beef or veal gravy instead of melted butter, addinganchovy, Cayenne, catchup, cavice, lemon-juice, or pickle, or wine, &c. 

_Obs. _--Save a little of the inside red coral spawn, and rub it througha sieve (without butter): it is a very ornamental garnish to sprinkleover fish; and if the skin is broken, (which will sometimes happen tothe most careful cook, when there is a large dinner to dress, and manyother things to attend to, ) you will find it a convenient and elegantveil, to conceal your misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous_gourmands_. 

N. B. Various methods have been tried to preserve lobsters, see No. 178, and lobster spawn, for a store sauce. The live spawn may be kept sometime in strong salt and water, or in an ice-house. 

The following process might, perhaps, preserve it longer. Put it into asaucepan of boiling water, with a large spoonful of salt in it, and letit boil quick for five minutes; then drain it on a hair-sieve; spread itout thin on a plate, and set it in a Dutch oven till it is thoroughlydried; grind it in a clean mill, and pack it closely in well-stoppedbottles. See also Potted Lobsters, No. 178. 

_Sauce for Lobster, &c. _--(No. 285. See also No. 372. )

Bruise the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back of a woodenspoon, or rather pound them in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water, and the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster; rub them quite smooth, with a tea-spoonful of made mustard, two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and five of vinegar; season it with a very little Cayenne pepper, andsome salt. 

_Obs. _--To this, elder or tarragon vinegar (No. 396), or anchovy essence(No. 433), is occasionally added. 

_Liver and Parsley Sauce_, --(No. 287. ) _or Liver and Lemon Sauce. _

Wash the liver (it must be perfectly fresh) of a fowl or rabbit, andboil it five minutes in five table-spoonfuls of water; chop it fine, orpound or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it through a sieve: wash about one-third the bulk of parsleyleaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling water, with atea-spoonful of salt in it; lay it on a hair-sieve to drain, and minceit very fine; mix it with the liver, and put it into a quarter pint ofmelted butter, and warm it up; do not let it boil. _Or_, _To make Lemon and Liver Sauce. _

Pare off the rind of a lemon, or of a Seville orange, as thin aspossible, so as not to cut off any of the white with it; now cut off allthe white, and cut the lemon into slices, about as thick as a couple ofhalf-crowns; pick out the pips, and divide the slices into smallsquares: add these, and a little of the peel minced very fine to theliver, prepared as directed above, and put them into the melted butter, and warm them together; but do not let them boil. 

N. B. The poulterers can always let you have fresh livers, if that of thefowl or rabbit is not good, or not large enough to make as much sauce asyou wish. 

_Obs. _--Some cooks, instead of pounding, mince the liver very fine (withhalf as much bacon), and leave out the parsley; others add the juice ofhalf a lemon, and some of the peel grated, or a tea-spoonful of tarragonor Chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of white wine, or a little beatenmace, or nutmeg, or allspice: if you wish it a little more lively on thepalate, pound an eschalot, or a few leaves of tarragon or basil, withanchovy, or catchup, or Cayenne. 

_Liver Sauce for Fish. _--(No. 288. )

Boil the liver of the fish, and pound it in a mortar with a littleflour; stir it into some broth, or some of the liquor the fish wasboiled in, or melted butter, parsley, and a few grains of Cayenne, alittle essence of anchovy (No. 433), or soy, or catchup (No. 439); giveit a boil up, and rub it through a sieve: you may add a littlelemon-juice, or lemon cut in dice. 

_Celery Sauce, white. _--(No. 289. )

Pick and wash two heads of nice white celery; cut it into pieces aboutan inch long; stew it in a pint of water, and a tea-spoonful of salt, till the celery is tender;[238-*] roll an ounce of butter with atable-spoonful of flour; add this to half a pint of cream, and give it aboil up. 

N. B. See No. 409. 

_Celery Sauce Purée, for boiled Turkey, Veal, Fowls, &c. _ (No. 290. )

Cut small half a dozen heads of nice white celery that is quite clean, and two onions sliced; put in a two-quart stew-pan, with a small lump ofbutter; sweat them over a slow fire till quite tender, then put in twospoonfuls of flour, half a pint of water (or beef or veal broth), saltand pepper, and a little cream or milk; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass through a fine hair-sieve with the back of a spoon. 

If you wish for celery sauce when celery is not in season, a quarter ofa drachm of celery-seed, or a little essence of celery (No. 409), willimpregnate half a pint of sauce with a sufficient portion of the flavourof the vegetable. 

See _Obs. _ to No. 214. 

_Green or Sorrel Sauce. _--(No. 291. )

Wash and clean a large ponnet of sorrel; put it into a stew-pan thatwill just hold it, with a bit of butter the size of an egg; cover itclose, set it over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, pass the sorrelwith the back of a wooden spoon through a hair-sieve, season withpepper, salt, and a small pinch of powdered sugar, make it hot, andserve up under lamb, veal, sweetbreads, &c. &c. Cayenne, nutmeg, andlemon-juice are sometimes added. 

_Tomata, or Love-apple Sauce. _--(No. 292. See also No. 443. )

Have twelve or fifteen tomatas, ripe and red; take off the stalk; cutthem in half; squeeze them just enough to get all the water and seedsout; put them in a stew-pan with a capsicum, and two or threetable-spoonfuls of beef gravy; set them on a slow stove for an hour, ortill properly melted; then rub them through a tamis into a cleanstew-pan, with a little white pepper and salt, and let them simmertogether a few minutes. 

[_Love-apple Sauce according to Ude. _

Melt in a stew-pan a dozen or two of love-apples (which, before puttingin the stew-pan, cut in two, and squeeze the juice and the seeds out);then put two eschalots, one onion, with a few bits of ham, a clove, alittle thyme, a bay-leaf, a few leaves of mace, and when melted, rubthem through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole or Spanishsauce, and a little salt and pepper, with this purée. Boil it for twentyminutes, and serve up. A. ]

_Mock Tomata Sauce. _--(No. 293. )

The only difference between this and genuine love-apple sauce, is thesubstituting the pulp of apple for that of tomata, colouring it withturmeric, and communicating an acid flavour to it by vinegar. 

_Eschalot Sauce. _--(No. 294. )

Take four eschalots, and make it in the same manner as garlic sauce (No. 272). _Or_, You may make this sauce more extemporaneously by putting twotable-spoonfuls of eschalot wine (No. 403), and a sprinkling of pepperand salt, into (almost) half a pint of thick melted butter. 

_Obs. _--This is an excellent sauce for chops or steaks; many are veryfond of it with roasted or boiled meat, poultry, &c. 

_Eschalot Sauce for boiled Mutton. _--(No. 295. )

This is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute for “caper sauce. ”

Mince four eschalots very fine, and put them into a small saucepan, withalmost half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled in: let them boilup for five minutes; then put in a table-spoonful of vinegar, a quartertea-spoonful of pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter (as big as awalnut) rolled in flour; shake together till it boils. See (No. 402)Eschalot Wine. 

_Obs. _--We like a little lemon-peel with eschalot; the _haut goût_ ofthe latter is much ameliorated by the delicate _aroma_ of the former. 

Some cooks add a little finely-chopped parsley. 

_Young Onion Sauce. _--(No. 296. )

Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to putthem on to boil; put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of cold water;let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size andage) from half an hour to an hour. You may put them into half a pint ofNo. 307. See also No. 137. 

_Onion Sauce. _--(No. 297. )

Those who like the full flavour of onions only cut off the strings andtops (without peeling off any of the skins), put them into salt andwater, and let them lie an hour; then wash them, put them into a kettlewith plenty of water, and boil them till they are tender: now skin them, pass them through a colander, and mix a little melted butter with them. 

N. B. Some mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, with the onions, othersadd mustard to them. 

_White Onion Sauce. _--(No. 298. )

The following is a more mild and delicate[240-*] preparation: Take halfa dozen of the largest and whitest onions (the Spanish are the mildest, but these can only be had from August to December); peel them and cutthem in half, and lay them in a pan of spring-water for a quarter of anhour, and then boil for a quarter of an hour; and then, if you wish themto taste very mild, pour off that water, and cover them with freshboiling water, and let them boil till they are tender, which willsometimes take three-quarters of an hour longer; drain them well on ahair-sieve; lay them on the chopping-board, and chop and bruise them;put them into a clean saucepan, with some butter and flour, half atea-spoonful of salt, and some cream, or good milk; stir it till itboils; then rub the whole through a tamis, or sieve, adding cream ormilk, to make it the consistence you wish. 

_Obs. _--This is the usual sauce for boiled rabbits, mutton, or tripe. There must be plenty of it; the usual expression signifies as much, forwe say, smother them with it. 

_Brown Onion Sauces, or Onion Gravy. _--(No. 299. )

Peel and slice the onions (some put in an equal quantity of cucumber orcelery) into a quart stew-pan, with an ounce of butter; set it on a slowfire, and turn the onion about till it is very lightly browned; nowgradually stir in half an ounce of flour; add a little broth, and alittle pepper and salt; boil up for a few minutes; add a table-spoonfulof claret, or port wine, and same of mushroom catchup, (you may sharpenit with a little lemon-juice or vinegar, ) and rub it through a tamis orfine sieve. 

Curry powder (No. 348) will convert this into excellent curry sauce. 

N. B. If this sauce is for steaks, shred an ounce of onions, fry them anice brown, and put them to the sauce you have rubbed through a tamis;or some very small, round, young silver button onions (see No. 296), peeled and boiled tender, and put in whole when your sauce is done, willbe an acceptable addition. 

_Obs. _--If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, and see No. 252; just before you give it the last boil up, add to it anothertable-spoonful of mushroom catchup, or the same quantity of port wine orgood ale. 

The flavour of this sauce may be varied by adding tarragon or burnetvinegar (Nos. 396 and 399). 

_Sage and Onion, or Goose-stuffing Sauce. _--(No. 300. )

Chop very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce of green sage leaves;put them into a stew-pan with four spoonfuls of water; simmer gently forten minutes; then put in a tea-spoonful of pepper and salt, and oneounce of fine bread-crumbs; mix well together; then pour to it a quarterof a pint of (broth, or gravy, or) melted butter, stir well together, and simmer it a few minutes longer. 

_Obs. _ This is a very relishing sauce for roast pork, poultry, geese, orducks; or green pease on maigre days. 

See also Bonne Bouche for the above, No. 341. 

_Green Mint Sauce. _--(No. 303. )

Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to thissome add one-third the quantity of parsley); pick the leaves from thestalks, mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with atea-spoonful of moist sugar, and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

_Obs. _--This is the usual accompaniment to hot lamb; and an equallyagreeable relish with cold lamb. 

If green mint cannot be procured, this sauce may be made with mintvinegar (No. 398). 

_Apple Sauce. _--(No. 304. )

Pare and core three good-sized baking apples; put them into awell-tinned pint saucepan, with two table-spoonfuls of cold water; coverthe saucepan close, and set it on a trivet over a slow fire a couple ofhours before dinner (some apples will take a long time stewing, otherswill be ready in a quarter of an hour): when the apples are done enough, pour off the water, let them stand a few minutes to get dry; then beatthem up with a fork, with a bit of butter about as big as a nutmeg, anda tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. 

N. B. Some add lemon-peel, grated, or minced fine, or boil a bit with theapples. Some are fond of apple sauce with cold pork: ask those you serveif they desire it. 

_Mushroom Sauce. _--(No. 305. )

Pick and peel half a pint of mushrooms (the smaller the better); washthem very clean, and put them into a saucepan, with half a pint of vealgravy or milk, a little pepper and salt, and an ounce of butter rubbedwith a table-spoonful of flour; stir them together, and set them over agentle fire, to stew slowly till tender; skim and strain it. 

_Obs. _--It will be a great improvement to this, and the two followingsauces, to add to them the juice of half a dozen mushrooms, prepared theday before, by sprinkling them with salt, the same as when you makecatchup; or add a large spoonful of good double mushroom catchup (No. 439). 

See Quintessence of Mushrooms, No. 440. 

N. B. Much as we love the flavour of mushrooms, we must enter our protestagainst their being eaten in substance, when the morbid effects theyproduce too often prove them worthy of the appellations Seneca gavethem, “voluptuous poison, ” “lethal luxury, ” &c. ; and we caution thosewho cannot refrain from indulging their palate with the seducing relishof this deceitful fungus, to masticate it diligently. 

We do not believe that mushrooms are nutritive; every one knows they areoften dangerously indigestible; therefore the rational epicure will becontent with extracting the flavour from them, which is obtained in theutmost perfection by the process directed in No. 439. 

_Mushroom Sauce, brown. _--(No. 306. )

Put the mushrooms into half a pint of beef gravy (No. 186, or No. 329);thicken with flour and butter, and proceed as above. 

_Mushroom Sauce, extempore. _--(No. 307. )

Proceed as directed in No. 256 to melt butter, only, instead of twotable-spoonfuls of milk, put in two of mushroom catchup (No. 439 or No. 440); or add it to thickened broth, gravy, or mock turtle soup, &c. Orput in No. 296. 

_Obs. _ This is a welcome relish with fish, poultry, or chops and steaks, &c. A couple of quarts of good catchup (No. 439, ) will make more goodsauce than ten times its cost of meat, &c. 

Walnut catchup will give you another variety; and Ball’s cavice, whichis excellent. 

_Poor Man’s Sauce. _--(No. 310. )

Pick a handful of parsley leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, strew over a little salt; shred fine half a dozen young green onions, add these to the parsley, and put them into a sauce-boat, with threetable-spoonfuls of oil, and five of vinegar; add some ground blackpepper and salt; stir together and send it up. 

Pickled French beans or gherkins, cut fine, may be added, or a littlegrated horseradish. 

_Obs. _--This sauce is in much esteem in France, where people of taste, weary of rich dishes, to obtain the charm of variety, occasionally orderthe fare of the peasant. 

_The Spaniard’s Garlic Gravy. _--(No. 311. See also No. 272. )

Slice a pound and a half of veal or beef, pepper and salt it, lay it ina stew-pan with a couple of carrots split, and four cloves of garlicsliced, a quarter pound of sliced ham, and a large spoonful of water;set the stew-pan over a gentle fire, and watch when the meat begins tostick to the pan; when it does, turn it, and let it be very well browned(but take care it is not at all burned); then dredge it with flour, andpour in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of clovesbruised, and slice in a lemon; set it on again, and let it simmer gentlyfor an hour and a half longer; then take off the fat, and strain thegravy from the ingredients, by pouring it through a napkin, straining, and pressing it very hard. 

_Obs. _--This, it is said, was the secret of the old Spaniard, who keptthe house called by that name on Hampstead Heath. 

Those who love garlic, will find it an extremely rich relish. 

_Mr. Michael Kelly’s[244-*] Sauce for boiled Tripe, Calf-head, orCow-heel. _--(No. 311*. )

Garlic vinegar, a table-spoonful; of mustard, brown sugar, and blackpepper, a tea-spoonful each; stirred into half a pint of oiled meltedbutter. 

_Mr. Kelly’s Sauce piquante. _

Pound a table-spoonful of capers, and one of minced parsley, as fine aspossible; then add the yelks of three hard eggs, rub them well togetherwith a table-spoonful of mustard; bone six anchovies, and pound them, rub them through a hair-sieve, and mix with two table-spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one of eschalot ditto, and a few grains of Cayennepepper; rub all these well together in a mortar, till thoroughlyincorporated; then stir them into half a pint of good gravy, or meltedbutter, and put the whole through a sieve. 

_Fried Parsley. _--(No. 317. )

Let it be nicely picked and washed, then put into a cloth, and swungbackwards and forwards till it is perfectly dry; put it into a pan ofhot fat, fry it quick, and have a slice ready to take it out the momentit is crisp (in another moment it will be spoiled); put it on a sieve, or coarse cloth, before the fire to drain. 

_Crisp Parsley. _--(No. 318. )

Pick and wash young parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to drain the waterfrom it; spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a Dutch oven before thefire, and turn it frequently until it is quite crisp. This is a muchmore easy way of preparing it than frying it, which is not seldom illdone. 

_Obs. _ A very pretty garnish for lamb chops, fish, &c. 

_Fried Bread Sippets. _--(No. 319. )

Cut a slice of bread about a quarter of an inch thick; divide it with asharp knife into pieces two inches square; shape these into triangles orcrosses; put some very clean fat into an iron frying-pan: when it ishot, put in the sippets, and fry them a delicate light brown; take themup with a fish slice, and drain them well from fat, turning themoccasionally; this will take a quarter of an hour. Keep the pan at sucha distance from the fire that the fat may be hot enough to brown withoutburning the bread; this is a requisite precaution in frying delicatethin things. 

_Obs. _ These are a pretty garnish, and very welcome accompaniment andimprovement to the finest made dishes: they may also be sent up withpease and other soups; but when intended for soups, the bread must becut into bits, about half an inch square. 

N. B. If these are not done very delicately clean and dry, they areuneatable. 

_Fried Bread-crumbs. _--(No. 320. )

Rub bread (which has been baked two days) through a wire sieve, orcolander; or you may rub them in a cloth till they are as fine as ifthey had been grated and sifted; put them into a stew-pan, with a coupleof ounces of butter; place it over a moderate fire, and stir them aboutwith a wooden spoon till they are the colour of a guinea; spread them ona sieve, and let them stand ten minutes to drain, turning themfrequently. 

_Obs. _ Fried crumbs are sent up with roasted sweetbreads, or larks, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, and grouse, or moor game; especiallyif they have been kept long enough, _Bread Sauce. _--(No. 321. )

Put a small tea-cupful of bread-crumbs into a stew-pan, pour on it asmuch milk as it will soak up, and a little more; or, instead of themilk, take the giblets, head, neck, and legs, &c. Of the poultry, &c. And stew them, and moisten the bread with this liquor; put it on thefire with a middling-sized onion, and a dozen berries of pepper orallspice, or a little mace; let it boil, then stir it well, and let itsimmer till it is quite stiff, and then put to it about twotable-spoonfuls of cream or melted butter, or a little good broth; takeout the onion and pepper, and it is ready. 

_Obs. _ This is an excellent accompaniment to game and poultry, &c. , anda good vehicle for receiving various flavours from the Magazine of Taste(No. 462). 

_Rice Sauce. _--(No. 321*. )

Steep a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, pepper, &c. As in the last receipt; when the rice is quite tender (takeout the spice), rub it through a sieve into a clean stew-pan: if toothick, put a little milk or cream to it. 

_Obs. _ This is a very delicate white sauce; and at elegant tables isfrequently served instead of bread sauce. 

_Browning_, --(No. 322. )

Is a convenient article to colour those soups or sauces of which it issupposed their deep brown complexion denotes the strength andsavouriness of the composition. 

Burned sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the brewers, who use itunder the name of “essentia bina” to colour their beer: it is alsoemployed by the brandy-makers, in considerable quantity, to colourbrandy; to which, besides enriching its complexion, it gives thatsweetish taste, and fulness in the mouth, which custom has taught brandydrinkers to admire, and prefer to the finest Cognac in its genuinestate. 

When employed for culinary purposes, this is sometimes made with stronggravy, or walnut catchup. Those who like a _goût_ of acid may add alittle walnut pickle. 

It will hardly be told from what is commonly called “genuine Japanesesoy”[246-*] (for which it is a very good substitute). Burned treacle orsugar, the peels of walnut, Cayenne pepper, or capsicums, or Chilies, vinegar, garlic, and pickled herrings (especially the Dutch), Sardinias, or sprats, appear to be the bases of almost all the sauces which now (touse the maker’s phrase) stand unrivalled. 

Although indefatigable research and experiment have put us in possessionof these compositions, it would not be quite fair to enrich the cook atthe expense of the oilman, &c. ; we hope we have said enough on thesesubjects to satisfy “the rational epicure. ”

Put half a pound of pounded lump-sugar, and a table-spoonful of water, into a clean iron saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirringit with a wooden spoon till it becomes a bright brown colour, and beginsto smoke; then add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it by degrees withwater, till it is the thickness of soy; let it boil, take off the scum, and strain the liquor into bottles, which must be well stopped: if youhave not any of this by you, and you wish to darken the colour of yoursauces, pound a tea-spoonful of lump-sugar, and put it into an ironspoon, with as much water as will dissolve it; hold it over a quick firetill it becomes of a very dark brown colour; mix it with the soup, &c. While it is hot. 

_Obs. _ Most of the preparations under this title are a medley of burnedbutter, spices, catchup, wine, &c. We recommend the rational epicure tobe content with the natural colour of soups and sauces, which, to awell-educated palate, are much more agreeable, without any of theseempyreumatic additions; however they may please the eye, they plague thestomach most grievously; so “open your mouth and shut your eyes. ”

For the sake of producing a pretty colour, “cheese, ” “Cayenne” (No. 404), “essence of anchovy” (No. 433), &c. Are frequently adulteratedwith a colouring matter containing red lead!! See ACCUM _on theAdulteration of Food_, 2d edit. 12mo. 1820. 

A scientific “_homme de bouche de France_” observes: “The generality ofcooks calcine bones, till they are as black as a coal, and throw themhissing hot into the stew-pan, to give a brown colour to their broths. These ingredients, under the appearance of a nourishing gravy, envelopeour food with stimulating acid and corrosive poison. 

“Roux, or thickening (No. 257), if not made very carefully, producesexactly the same effect; and the juices of beef or veal, burned over ahot fire, to give a rich colour to soup or sauces, grievously offend thestomach, and create the most distressing indigestions. 

“The judicious cook will refuse the help of these incendiary articles, which ignorance or quackery only employ; not only at the expense of thecredit of the cook, but the health of her employers. ”

N. B. The best browning is good home-made glaze (No. 252), mushroomcatchup (No. 439), or claret, or port wine. See also No. 257; or cutmeat into slices, and broil them brown, and then stew them. 

_Gravy for roast Meat. _--(No. 326. )

Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings, &c. To make half a pint ofplain gravy, which you may colour with a few drops of No. 322: for thosethat do not, about half an hour before you think the meat will be done, mix a salt-spoonful of salt, with a full quarter pint of boiling water;drop this by degrees on the brown parts of the joint; set a dish underto catch it (the meat will soon brown again); set it by; as it cools, the fat will float on the surface; when the meat is ready, carefullyremove the fat, and warm up the gravy, and pour it into the dish. 

The common method is, when the meat is in the dish you intend to send itup in, to mix half a tea-spoonful of salt in a quarter pint of boilingwater, and to drop some of this over the corners and underside of themeat, and to pour the rest through the hole the spit came out of: somepierce the inferior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer. 

The following receipt was given us by a very good cook: You may makegood browning for roast meat and poultry, by saving the brown bits ofroast meat or broiled; cut them small, put them into a basin, cover themwith boiling water, and put them away till next day; then put it into asaucepan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain it through a sieveinto a basin, and put it away for use. When you want gravy for roastmeat, put two table-spoonfuls into half a pint of boiling water with alittle salt: if for roasted veal, put three table-spoonfuls into half apint of thin melted butter. 

N. B. The gravy which comes down in the dish, the cook (if she is a goodhousewife) will preserve to enrich hashes or little made dishes, &c. 

_Obs. _ Some culinary professors, who think nothing can be excellent thatis not extravagant, call this “Scots’ gravy;” not, I believe, intendingit, as it certainly is, a compliment to the laudable and rationalfrugality of that intelligent and sober-minded people. 

N. B. This gravy should be brought to table in a sauce-boat; preservethe intrinsic gravy which flows from the meat in the Argyll. 

_Gravy for boiled Meat_, --(No. 327. )

May be made with parings and trimmings; or pour from a quarter to half apint of the liquor in which the meat was boiled, into the dish with it, and pierce the inferior part of the joint with a sharp skewer. 

_Wow wow Sauce for stewed or bouilli Beef. _--(No. 328. )

Chop some parsley-leaves very fine; quarter two or three pickledcucumbers, or walnuts, and divide them into small squares, and set themby ready: put into a saucepan a bit of butter as big as an egg; when itis melted, stir to it a table-spoonful of fine flour, and about half apint of the broth in which the beef was boiled; add a table-spoonful ofvinegar, the like quantity of mushroom catchup, or port wine, or both, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard; let it simmer together till it is asthick as you wish it; put in the parsley and pickles to get warm, andpour it over the beef; or rather send it up in a sauce-tureen. 

_Obs. _ If you think the above not sufficiently _piquante_, add to itsome capers, or a minced eschalot, or one or two tea-spoonfuls ofeschalot wine (No. 402), or essence of anchovy, or basil (No. 397), elder, or tarragon (No. 396), or horseradish (No. 399*), or burnetvinegar; or strew over the meat carrots and turnips cut into dice, minced capers, walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, or French beans, &c. 

_Beef-gravy Sauce_--(No. 329), _or Brown Sauce for Ragoût, Game, Poultry, Fish, &c. _

If you want gravy immediately, see No. 307, or No. 252. If you have timeenough, furnish a thick and well-tinned stew-pan with a thin slice offat ham or bacon, or an ounce of butter, and a middling-sized onion; onthis lay a pound of nice, juicy gravy beef, (as the object in makinggravy is to extract the nutritious succulence of the meat, it must bebeaten to comminute the containing vessels, and scored to augment thesurface to the action of the water); cover the stew-pan, and set it on aslow fire; when the meat begins to brown, turn it about, and let it getslightly browned (but take care it is not at all burned): then pour in apint and a half of boiling water; set the pan on the fire; when itboils, carefully catch the scum, and then put in a crust of breadtoasted brown (don’t burn it), a sprig of winter savoury, orlemon-thyme and parsley, a roll of thin-cut lemon-peel, a dozen berriesof allspice, and a dozen of black pepper; cover the stew-pan close, letit stew very gently for about two hours, then strain it through a sieveinto a basin. 

If you wish to thicken it, set a clean stew-pan over a slow fire, withabout an ounce of butter in it; when it is melted, dredge to it (bydegrees) as much flour as will dry it up, stirring them well together;when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little of the gravy; stir it welltogether, and add the remainder by degrees; set it over the fire, let itsimmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, and skim off thefat, &c. As it rises; when it is about as thick as cream, squeeze itthrough a tamis, or fine sieve, and you will have a fine, rich brownsauce, at a very moderate expense, and without much trouble. 

_Obs. _ If you wish to make it still more relishing, if it is forpoultry, you may pound the liver with a bit of butter, rub it through asieve, and stir it into the sauce when you put in the thickening. 

For a ragoût or game, add at the same time a table-spoonful of mushroomcatchup, or No. 343, [250-*] or No. 429, or a few drops of 422, the juiceof half a lemon, and a roll of the rind pared thin, a table-spoonful ofport, or other wine (claret is best), and a few grains of Cayennepepper; or use double the quantity of meat; or add a bit of glaze, orportable soup (No. 252), to it. 

You may vary the flavour, by sometimes adding a little basil, or burnetwine (No. 397), tarragon vinegar (No. 396), or a wine-glass ofquintessence of mushrooms (No. 450). 

See the Magazine of Taste (No. 462). 

N. B. This is an excellent gravy; and at a large dinner, a pint of itshould be placed at each end of the table; you may make it equal to themost costly _consommé_ of the Parisian kitchen. 

Those families who are frequently in want of gravy, sauces, &c. (withoutplenty of which no cook can support the credit of her kitchen), shouldkeep a stock of portable soup or glaze (No. 252): this will make gravyimmediately. 

_Game Gravy. _--(No. 337. )

See _Obs. _ to No. 329. 

_Orange-gravy Sauce, for wild Ducks, Woodcocks, Snipes, Widgeon, andTeal, &c. _--(No. 338. )

Set on a saucepan with half a pint of veal gravy (No. 192), add to ithalf a dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a roll of orange orlemon-peel, and let it boil up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Putto the clear gravy the juice of a Seville orange, or lemon, half atea-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, and a glass of red wine; sendit up hot. Eschalot and Cayenne may be added. 

_Obs. _--This is an excellent sauce for all kinds of wild water-fowl. 

The common way of gashing the breast and squeezing in an orange, coolsand hardens the flesh, and compels every one to eat duck that way: somepeople like wild fowl very little done, and without any sauce. 

Gravies should always be sent up in a covered boat: they keep hotlonger; and it leaves it to the choice of the company to partake of themor not, _Bonne Bouche for Goose, Duck, or roast Pork. _--(No. 341. )

Mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a fewgrains of Cayenne, in a large wine-glassful of claret or portwine;[251-*] pour it into the goose by a slit in the apron just beforeserving up;[251-+] or, as all the company may not like it, stir it intoa quarter of a pint of thick melted butter, or thickened gravy, and sendit up in a boat. See also Sage and Onion Sauce, No. 300. _Or_, A favourite relish for roast pork or geese, &c. Is, two ounces of leavesof green sage, an ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared thin, same of salt, minced eschalot, and half a drachm of Cayenne pepper, ditto of citricacid, steeped for a fortnight in a pint of claret; shake it up wellevery day; let it stand a day to settle, and decant the clear liquor;bottle it, and cork it close; a table-spoonful or more in a quarter pintof gravy, or melted butter. 

_Robert Sauce for roast Pork, or Geese, &c. _--(No. 342. )

Put an ounce of butter into a pint stew-pan: when it is melted, add toit half an ounce of onion minced very fine; turn it with a wooden spoontill it takes a light brown colour; then stir in a table-spoonful offlour, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (with or without the likequantity of port wine), half a pint of broth or water, and a quarter ofa tea-spoonful of pepper, the same of salt; give them a boil; then add atea-spoonful of mustard, and the juice of half a lemon, or one or twotea-spoonfuls of vinegar or basil (No. 397), or tarragon (No. 396), orburnet vinegar (No. 399). 

_Obs. _--The French call this “SAUCE ROBERT” (from the name of the cookwho invented it), and are very fond of it with many things, which MARYSMITH, in the “_Complete Housekeeper_, ” 8vo. 1772, p. 105, translatesROE-BOAT-SAUCE. See _Obs. _ to No. 529. 

_Turtle Sauce. _--(No. 343. )

Put into your stew-pan a pint of beef gravy thickened (No. 329); add tothis some of the following--essence of turtle, (No. 343*), or awine-glassful of Madeira, the juice and peel of half a lemon, a fewleaves of basil, [252-*] an eschalot quartered, a few grains of Cayennepepper, or curry powder, and a little essence of anchovy; let themsimmer together for five minutes, and strain through a tamis: you mayintroduce a dozen turtle forcemeat balls. See receipt, No. 380, &c. 

_Obs. _--This is the sauce for boiled or hashed calf’s head, stewed veal, or any dish you dress turtle fashion. 

The far-fetched and dear-bought turtle owes its high rank on the list ofsavoury _bonne bouches_ to the relishing and _piquante_ sauce that ismade for it; without, it would be as insipid as any other fish iswithout sauce. See _Obs. _ to No. 493. 

_Essence of Turtle. _--(No. 343*. )

 Essence of anchovy (No. 433), one wine-glassful. Eschalot wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto. Basil wine (No. 397), four ditto. Mushroom catchup (No. 439), two ditto. Concrete lemon acid, one drachm, or some artificial lemon-juice (No. 407*). Lemon-peel, very thinly pared, three-quarters of an ounce. Curry powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce. 

Steep for a week, to get the flavour of the lemon-peel, &c. 

_Obs. _--This is very convenient to extemporaneously _turtlefy_ soup, sauce, or potted meats, ragoûts, savoury patties, pies, &c. &c. 

_Wine Sauce for Venison or Hare. _--(No. 344. )

A quarter of a pint of claret or port wine, the same quantity of plain, unflavoured mutton gravy (No. 347), and a table-spoonful of currantjelly: let it just boil up, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. 

_Sharp Sauce for Venison. _--(No. 345. )

Put into a silver, or very clean and well-tinned saucepan, half a pintof the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugarpounded: set it over the fire, and let it simmer gently; skim itcarefully; pour it through a tamis or fine sieve, and send it up in abasin. 

_Obs. _--Some people like this better than the sweet wine sauces. 

_Sweet Sauce for Venison or Hare. _--(No. 346. )

Put some currant-jelly into a stew-pan; when it is melted, pour it intoa sauce-boat. 

N. B. Many send it to table without melting. To make currant-jelly, seeNo. 479*. 

This is a more salubrious relish than either spice or salt, when thepalate protests against animal food unless its flavour be masked. Currant-jelly is a good accompaniment to roasted or hashed meats. 

_Mutton Gravy for Venison or Hare. _--(No. 347. )

The best gravy for venison is that made with the trimmings of the joint:if this is all used, and you have no undressed venison, cut a scrag ofmutton in pieces; broil it a little brown; then put it into a cleanstew-pan, with a quart of boiling water; cover it close, and let itsimmer gently for an hour: now uncover the stew-pan, and let it reduceto three-quarters of a pint; pour it through a hair-sieve; take the fatoff, and send it up in a boat. It is only to be seasoned with a littlesalt, that it may not overpower the natural flavour of the meat. You maycolour it with a very little of No. 322. 

N. B. Some prefer the unseasoned beef gravy, No. 186, which you may makein five minutes with No. 252. 

THE QUEEN’S GRAVY OF MUTTON, as made by her Majesty’s “_Escuyer deCuisine_, ” Monsieur La Montagne. “Roast a juicy leg of muttonthree-quarters; then gash it in several places, and press out the juiceby a screw-press. ”--From SIR KENELM DIGBY’S _Cookery_, 18mo. London, 1669. 

_Curry Sauce_, --(No. 348. )

Is made by stirring a sufficient quantity of curry stuff, (No. 455) intogravy or melted butter, or onion sauce (Nos. 297, 298), or onion gravy(No. 299, or No. 339). 

The compositions of curry powder, and the palates of those who eat it, vary so much, that we cannot recommend any specific quantity. The cookmust add it by degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care not toput in too much. 

_Obs. _--The curry powder (No. 455) approximates more nearly to the bestIndian curry stuff, and is an agreeable and well-blended mixture of thisclass of aromatics. 

N. B. To dress curries, see No. 497. 

_Essence of Ham. _--(No. 351. )

Essence of ham and of beef may be purchased at the eating-houses whichcut up those joints; the former for half a crown or three shillings aquart: it is therefore a most economical relish for made-dishes, and togive _piquance_ to sauces, &c. 

_Grill Sauce. _--(No. 355. )

To half a pint of gravy (No. 329), add an ounce of fresh butter, and atable-spoonful of flour, previously well rubbed together, the same ofmushroom or walnut catchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, one ofmade mustard, one of minced capers, half a one of black pepper, aquarter of a rind of a lemon grated very thin, a tea-spoonful of essenceof anchovies, and a little eschalot wine (No. 402), or a very smallpiece of minced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar (No. 405), or a fewgrains of Cayenne; simmer together for a few minutes; pour a little ofit over the grill, and send up the rest in a sauce-tureen. For anchovytoasts, No. 573, or No. 538. _Or_, _Sauce à la Tartare. _

Pound in a mortar three hard yelks of eggs; put them into a basin, andadd half a table-spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt;pour to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the while, about twowine-glassfuls of salad oil; stir it together till it comes to a goodthickness. 

N. B. A little tarragon or chervil minced very fine, and a littlevinegar, may be added; or some of the ingredients enumerated in No. 372. 

_Obs. _--This from the French artist who wrote the receipt for dressing aturtle. 

_Mem. _--These are _piquante_ relishes for anchovy toasts (No. 573, orNo. 538); for BROILED DEVILS, &c. “_Véritable sauce d’enfer_, ” see No. 538; and a refreshing excitement for those idle palates, who are asincessantly mumbling out “piquante, piquante, ” as parrots do “prettyPoll, pretty Poll. ”

 “For palates grown callous almost to disease, Who peppers the highest is surest to please. ”

 GOLDSMITH. 

_Sauce for Steaks, or Chops, Cutlets, &c. _--(No. 356. See also No. 331. )

Take your chops out of the frying-pan; for a pound of meat keep atable-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in about an ounce ofbutter; put to it as much flour as will make it a paste; rub it welltogether over the fire till they are a little brown; then add as muchboiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of good cream, and atable-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup, or pickle, or browning(No. 322, or No. 449); let it boil together a few minutes, and pour itthrough a sieve to the steaks, &c. 

_Obs. _--To the above is sometimes added a sliced onion, or a mincedeschalot, with a table-spoonful of port wine, or a little eschalot wine(Nos. 402, 423, or 135). Garnish with finely-scraped horseradish, orpickled walnuts, gherkins, &c. Some beef-eaters like chopped eschalotsin one saucer, and horseradish grated in vinegar, in another. Broiledmushrooms are favourite relishes to beef-steaks. 

_Sauce Piquante for cold Meat, Game, Poultry, Fish, &c. OrSalads. _--(No. 359. See also No. 372, and Cucumber Vinegar, Nos. 399 and453. )

Pound in a mortar the yelks of two eggs that have been boiled hard (No. 547), with a mustard-spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper andsalt; add two table-spoonfuls of salad oil; mix well, and then add threetable-spoonfuls of vinegar; rub it up well till it is quite smooth, andpass it through a tamis or sieve. 

_Obs. _--To the above, some add an anchovy, or a table-spoonful ofmushroom catchup, or walnut pickle, some finely-chopped parsley, gratedhorseradish, or young onions minced, or burnet (No. 399), horseradish(No. 399*, or No. 402), or tarragon, or elder vinegar (No. 396), &c. , and Cayenne or minced pickles, capers, &c. This is a _piquante_ relishfor lobsters, crabs, cold fish, &c. 

_Sauce for Hashes of Mutton or Beef. _--(No. 360. See also Nos. 451, 485, and to make Plain Hash, No. 486. )

Unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand the palate of thoseyou are working for, show those who are to eat the hash this receipt, and beg of them to direct you how they wish it seasoned. 

Half the number of the ingredients enumerated will be more than enough:but as it is a receipt so often wanted we have given variety. See alsoNo. 486. 

To prepare the meat, see No. 484. 

Chop the bones and fragments of the joint, &c. , and put them into astew-pan; cover them with boiling water, six berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, a small bundle of parsley, half a head of celerycut in pieces, and a small sprig of savoury, or lemon-thyme, or sweetmarjoram; cover up, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. 

Slice half an ounce of onion, and put it into a stew-pan with an ounceof butter; fry it over a sharp fire for about a couple of minutes, tillit takes a little colour; then stir in as much flour as will make it astiff paste, and by degrees mix with it the gravy you have made from thebones, &c. ; let it boil very gently for about a quarter of an hour, tillit is the consistence of cream; strain it through a tamis or sieve intoa basin; put it back into the stew-pan: to season it, see No. 451, orcut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts, or a couple of gherkins, and atable-spoonful of mushroom catchup, or walnut or other pickle liquor; orsome capers, and caper liquor; or a table-spoonful of ale; or a littleeschalot, or tarragon vinegar; cover the bottom of the dish with sippetsof bread (that they may become savoury reservoirs of gravy), which sometoast and cut into triangles. You may garnish it with fried breadsippets (No. 319). 

N. B. To hash meat in perfection, it should be laid in this gravy onlyjust long enough to get properly warm through. 

_Obs. _ If any of the gravy that was sent up with, or ran from the jointwhen it was roasted, be left, it will be a great improvement to thehash. 

If you wish to make mock venison, instead of the onion, put in two orthree cloves, a table-spoonful of currant jelly, and the same quantityof claret or port wine, instead of the catchup. 

You may make a curry hash by adding some of No. 455. 

N. B. A pint of No. 329 is an excellent gravy to warm up either meat orpoultry. 

_Sauce for hashed or minced Veal. _--(No. 361. See No. 511. )

Take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal, dredge them well withflour, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and a half of broth orwater, a small onion, a little grated or finely-minced lemon-peel, orthe peel of a quarter of a small lemon, pared as thin as possible, halfa tea-spoonful of salt, and a blade of pounded mace; to thicken it, ruba table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce of butter; stir it into thebroth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil very gently for abouthalf an hour; strain through a tamis or sieve, and it is ready to put tothe veal to warm up; which is to be done by placing the stew-pan by theside of the fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bottom of thedish with toasted bread sippets cut into triangles, and garnish the dishwith slices of ham or bacon. See Nos. 526 and 527. 

_Bechamel, by English Cooks commonly called White Sauce. _ (No. 364. )

Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two pounds of lean veal, halfa pound of lean ham; melt in a stew-pan two ounces of butter; whenmelted, let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at the bottom(it requires great attention, as, if it happen to catch at the bottom ofthe stew-pan, it will spoil the look of your sauce); then add to itthree table-spoonfuls of flour; when well mixed, add to it three pintsof broth or water (pour a little at a time, that the thickening besmooth); stir it until it boil; put the stew-pan on the corner of thestove to boil gently for two hours; season it with four cloves, oneonion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade of mace, a few mushrooms and a fagotmade of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let the sauce reduceto a quart, skim the fat off, and strain it through a tamis cloth. 

To make a bechamel sauce, add to a quart of the above a pint of goodcream; stir it until it is reduced to a good thickness; a few mushroomsgive a good flavour to that sauce; strain it through a tamis cloth. 

_Obs. _ The above was given us by a French artist. 

_A more economical Method of making a Pint of White Sauce. _--(No. 364--2. )

Put equal parts of broth and milk into a stew-pan with an onion and ablade of mace; set it on the fire to boil ten minutes; have ready andrub together on a plate an ounce of flour and butter; put it into thestew-pan; stir it well till it boils up; then stand it near the fire orstove, stirring it every now and then till it becomes quite smooth; thenstrain it through a sieve into a basin; put it back into the stew-pan;season it with salt and the juice of a small lemon; beat up the yelks oftwo eggs well with about three table-spoonfuls of milk, strain itthrough a sieve into your sauce, stir it well and keep it near the fire, but be sure and do not let it boil, for it will curdle. 

_Obs. _ A convenient veil for boiled fowls, &c. Whose complexions are notinviting. 

_Mem. _ With the assistance of the Magazine of Taste (No. 462) you maygive this sauce a variety of flavours. 

_Obs. _ Bechamel implies a thick white sauce, approaching to a batter, and takes its name from a wealthy French Marquis, _maître d’hôtel deLouis XIV. _, and famous for his patronage of “_les Officiers deBouche_, ” who have immortalized him, by calling by his name thisdelicate composition. 

Most of the French sauces take their name from the person whose palatethey first pleased, as “_à la Maintenon_;” or from some famous cook whoinvented them, as “Sauce Robert, ” “_à la Montizeur_, ” &c. 

We have in the English kitchen, our “Argyll” for gravy, and the little“Sandwich, ” “_monumentum ære perennius_. ”

 ----“And thus MONTEITH Has, by one vessel, saved his name from death. ”

 KING’S _Art of Cookery_. 

_Poivrade Sauce. _--(No. 365. )

This, as its title tells us, is a sauce of French extraction. Thefollowing receipt is from “_La Cuisinière Bourgeoise_, ” page 408. 

“Put a bit of butter as big as an egg into a stew-pan with two or threebits of onion, carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, two eschalots, twocloves, a bay-leaf, thyme, and basil; keep turning them in the pan tillthey get a little colour; shake in some flour, and add a glass of redwine, a glass of water, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper andsalt; boil half an hour; skim and strain it. ”

_Mustard in a minute. _--(No. 369. )

Mix very gradually, and rub together in a mortar, an ounce of flour ofmustard, with three table-spoonfuls of milk (cream is better), half atea-spoonful of salt, and the same of sugar; rub them well together tillquite smooth. 

_Obs. _ Mustard made in this manner is not at all bitter, and istherefore instantly ready for the table. 

N. B. It has been said that flour of mustard is sometimes adulteratedwith common flour, &c. &c. 

_Mustard. _--(No. 370. )

Mix (by degrees, by rubbing together in a mortar) the best Durham flourof mustard, with vinegar, white wine, or cold water, in which scrapedhorseradish has been boiled; rub it well together for at least tenminutes, till it is perfectly smooth; it will keep in a stone jarclosely stopped, for a fortnight: only put as much into the mustard-potas will be used in a day or two. 

The ready-made mustard prepared at the oil shops is mixed with aboutone-fourth part salt: this is done to preserve it, if it is to be keptlong; otherwise, by all means, omit it. The best way of eating salt isin substance. 

⁂ See also recipe No. 427. 

_Obs. _ Mustard is the best of all the stimulants that are employed togive energy to the digestive organs. It was in high favour with ourforefathers; in the _Northumberland Household Book_ for 1512, p. 18, isan order for an annual supply of 160 gallons of mustard. 

Some opulent epicures mix it with sherry or Madeira wine, or distilledor flavoured vinegar, instead of horseradish water. 

The French flavour their mustard with Champaigne and other wines, orwith vinegar flavoured with capers, anchovies, tarragon, elder, basil, burnet, garlic, eschalot, or celery, see No. 395 to No. 402: warming itwith Cayenne, or the various spices; sweet, savoury, fine herbs, truffles, catchup, &c. &c. , and seem to consider mustard merely as avehicle of flavours. 

N. B. In Mons. Maille et Aclocque’s catalogue of Parisian “_Bono Bons_, ”there is a list of twenty-eight differently flavoured mustards. 

_Salt_, --(No. 371. )

Is (“_aliorum condimentorum condimentum_, ” as Plutarch calls it, ) saucefor sauce. 

Common salt is more relishing than basket salt; it should be preparedfor the table by drying it in a Dutch oven before the fire; then put iton a clean paper, and roll it with a rolling pin; if you pound it in amortar till it is quite fine, it will look as well as basket salt. Malden salt is still more _piquante_. 

⁂ Select for table-use the lumps of salt. 

_Obs. _ Your salt-box must have a close cover, and be kept in a dryplace. 

_Salad mixture. _--(No. 372. See also Nos. 138* and 453. )

Endeavour to have your salad herbs as fresh as possible; if you suspectthey are not “morning gathered, ” they will be much refreshed by lying anhour or two in spring-water; then carefully wash and pick them, and trimoff all the worm-eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves; and, after washing, let them remain a while in the colander to drain: lastly, swing themgently in a clean napkin: when properly picked and cut, arrange them inthe salad dish, mix the sauce in a soup plate, and put it into aningredient bottle, [260-*] or pour it down the side of the salad dish, and don’t stir it up till the mouths are ready for it. 

If the herbs be young, fresh gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dry, and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the following directions, hecannot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplishedsalad-dresser. 

Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, and put them in a basin ofcold water for a few minutes; the yelks must be quite cold and hard, orthey will not incorporate with the ingredients. Rub them through asieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a table-spoonful of water, or fine double cream; then add two table-spoonfuls of oil or meltedbutter; when these are well mixed, add, by degrees, a tea-spoonful ofsalt, or powdered lump sugar, and the same of made mustard: when theseare smoothly united, add very gradually three table-spoonfuls ofvinegar; rub it with the other ingredients till thoroughly incorporatedwith them; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the saladwith it. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl, and do not stirup the salad till it is to be eaten: we recommend the eaters to bemindful of the duty of mastication, without the due performance ofwhich, all undressed vegetables are troublesome company for theprincipal viscera, and some are even dangerously indigestible. 

_Boiled Salad. _

This is best compounded of boiled or baked onions (if Portugal thebetter), some baked beet-root, cauliflower, or broccoli, and boiledcelery and French beans, or any of these articles, with the common saladdressing; added to this, to give it an enticing appearance, and to givesome of the crispness and freshness so pleasant in salad, a smallquantity of raw endive, or lettuce and chervil, or burnet, strewed onthe top: this is by far more wholesome than the raw salad, and is mucheaten when put on the table. 

N. B. The above sauce is equally good with cold meat, cold fish, or forcucumbers, celery, radishes, &c. And all the other vegetables that aresent to table undressed: to the above, a little minced onion isgenerally an acceptable addition. 

_Obs. _ Salad is a very compound dish with our neighbours the French, whoalways add to the mixture above, black pepper, and sometimes savouryspice. 

The Italians mince the white meat of chickens into this sauce. 

The Dutch, cold boiled turbot or lobster; or add to it a spoonful ofgrated parmesan or old Cheshire cheese, or mince very fine a littletarragon, or chervil, burnet, or young onion, celery, or pickledgherkins, &c. 

Joan Cromwell’s grand salad was composed of equal parts of almonds, raisins, capers, pickled cucumbers, shrimps, and boiled turnips. 

This mixture is sometimes made with cream, oiled butter (see No. 260*), or some good jelly of meat (which many prefer to the finest Florenceoil), and flavoured with salad mixture (No. 453), basil (No. 397), orcress or celery vinegar (No. 397*), horseradish vinegar (No. 399*), cucumber vinegar (No. 399), and _Obs. _ to No. 116 of the Appendix;tarragon, or elder vinegar, essence of celery (No. 409), walnut or lemonpickle, or a slice of lemon cut into dice, and essence of anchovy (No. 433). 

_Forcemeat Stuffings. _--(No. 373. )

Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable accompaniment to most madedishes, and when composed with good taste, gives additional spirit andrelish to even that “sovereign of savouriness, ” turtle soup. 

It is also sent up in patties, and for stuffing of veal, game, poultry, &c. 

The ingredients should be so proportioned, that no one flavourpredominates. 

To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, &c. Argues a poverty ofinvention; with a little contrivance, you may make as great a variety asyou have dishes. 

I have given receipts for some of the most favourite compositions, and atable of materials, a glance at which will enable the ingenious cook tomake an infinite variety of combinations: the first column containingthe spirit, the second the substance of them. 

The poignancy of forcemeat should be proportioned to the savouriness ofthe viands, to which it is intended to give an additional zest. Somedishes require a very delicately flavoured forcemeat, for others, itmust be full and high seasoned. What would be _piquante_ in a turkey, would be insipid with turtle. 

Tastes are so different, and the praise the cook receives will depend somuch on her pleasing the palate of those she works for, that all hersagacity must be on the alert, to produce the flavours to which heremployers are partial. See pages 45 and 46. 

Most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in stuffings, &c. , andwhat exactly pleases one, seldom is precisely what another considers themost agreeable: and after all the contrivance of a pains-takingpalatician, to combine her “_hauts goûts_” in the most harmoniousproportions, “The very dish one likes the best, Is acid, or insipid, to the rest. ”

Custom is all in all in matters of taste: it is not that one person isnaturally fond of this or that, and another naturally averse to it; butthat one is used to it, and another is not. 

The consistency of forcemeats is rather a difficult thing to manage;they are almost always either too light or too heavy. 

Take care to pound it till perfectly smooth, and that all theingredients are thoroughly incorporated. 

Forcemeat-balls must not be larger than a small nutmeg. If they are forbrown sauce, flour and fry them; if for white, put them into boilingwater, and boil them for three minutes: the latter are by far the mostdelicate. 

N. B. If not of sufficient stiffness, it falls to pieces, and makes soup, &c. Grouty and very unsightly. 

Sweetbreads and tongues are the favourite materials for forcemeat. 

MATERIALS USED FOR FORCEMEAT, STUFFINGS, &C. 

 SPIRIT. 

 Common thyme. } Lemon-thyme. } Orange-thyme. } Sweet marjoram. } Summer and } Winter savoury. } Fresh and green, Sage. } or in dried Tarragon (No. 396). } powder (No. 461). Chervil. } Burnet (No. 399). } Basil (No. 397). } Bay-leaf. } Truffles and } Morells. } Mushroom powder (No. 439). Leeks. Onions. Eschalot (No. 402). Garlic. Lemon-peel (see Nos. 407 and 408). Shrimps (No. 175) Prawns. Crabs. Lobsters (Nos. 176 and 178). Oysters. Anchovy (No. 433). Dressed TONGUE (see N. B. To No. 373). Ham. Bacon. Black or white pepper. Allspice. Mace. Cinnamon Ginger. Nutmegs. Cloves. Capers and pickles (minced or pounded) Savoury powder (No. 465). Soup herb powder (No. 467). Curry powder (No. 455). Cayenne (No. 404). Zest (No. 255). 

 SUBSTANCES. 

 Flour. Crumbs of bread. Parsley (see N. B. To No. 261). Spinage. Boiled onion. Mashed potatoes (No. 106). Yelks of hard eggs (No. 574). Mutton. Beef. Veal suet, [263-*] or marrow. Calf’s udder, or brains. Parboiled sweetbread. Veal, minced and pounded, and Potted meats, &c. (No. 503. )

For liquids, you have meat gravy, lemon-juice, syrup of lemons (Nos. 391and 477), essence of anchovy (No. 433), the various vegetable essences(No. 407), mushroom catchup (No. 439), and the whites and yelks of eggs, wines, and the essence of spices. 

_Stuffing for Veal, roast Turkey, Fowl, &c. _--(No. 374. )

Mince a quarter of a pound of beef suet (beef marrow is better), thesame weight of bread-crumbs, two drachms of parsley-leaves, a drachm anda half of sweet marjoram or lemon-thyme, and the same of gratedlemon-peel and onion chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper andsalt; pound thoroughly together with the yelk and white of two eggs, andsecure it in the veal with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread. 

Make some of it into balls or sausages; flour them, and boil, or frythem, and send them up as a garnish, or in a side dish, with roastpoultry, veal, or cutlets, &c. 

N. B. This is about the quantity for a turkey poult: a very large turkeywill take nearly twice as much. To the above may be added an ounce ofdressed ham; or use equal parts of the above stuffing and pork sausagemeat (No. 87. ) pounded well together. 

_Obs. _ Good stuffing has always been considered a _chef-d’œuvre_ incookery: it has given immortality to

 “Poor _Roger Fowler_, who’d a generous mind, Nor would submit to have his hand confin’d, But aimed at all, --yet never could excel In any thing but _stuffing_ of his veal. ”

 KING’S _Art of Cookery_, p. 113. 

_Veal Forcemeat. _--(No. 375. )

Of undressed lean veal (after you have scraped it quite fine, and freefrom skin and sinews), two ounces, the same quantity of beef or vealsuet, and the same of bread-crumbs; chop fine two drachms of parsley, one of lemon-peel, one of sweet herbs, one of onion, and half a drachmof mace, or allspice, beaten to fine powder; pound all together in amortar; break into it the yelk and white of an egg; rub it all up welltogether, and season it with a little pepper and salt. 

_Obs. _--This may be made more savoury by the addition of cold boiledpickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, Cayenne or curry powder, &c. 

_Stuffing for Turkeys or Fowls, &c. _--(No. 377. )

Take the foregoing composition for the roast turkey, or add the softpart of a dozen oysters to it: an anchovy, or a little grated ham, ortongue, if you like it, is still more relishing. Fill the craw of thefowl, &c. ; but do not cram it so as to disfigure its shape. 

Pork sausage meat is sometimes used to stuff turkeys and fowls; orfried, and sent up as a garnish. 

_Goose or Duck Stuffing. _--(No. 378. )

Chop very fine about two ounces of onion, of green sage-leaves about anounce (both unboiled), four ounces of bread-crumbs, a bit of butterabout as big as a walnut, &c. , the yelk and white of an egg, and alittle pepper and salt: some add to this a minced apple. 

For another, see roasted goose and duck (Nos. 59 and 61), which latterwe like as forcemeat-balls for mock turtle; then add a littlelemon-peel, and warm it with Cayenne. 

_Stuffing for Hare. _--(No. 379. )

Two ounces of beef suet chopped fine; three ounces of fine bread-crumbs;parsley, a drachm; eschalot, half a drachm; a drachm of marjoram, lemon-thyme, or winter savoury; a drachm of grated lemon-peel, and thesame of pepper and salt: mix these with the white and yelk of an egg; donot make it thin--it must be of cohesive consistence: if your stuffingis not stiff enough, it will be good for nothing: put it in the hare, and sew it up. 

⁂ If the liver is quite sound, you may parboil it, and mince it veryfine, and add it to the above. 

_Forcemeat-Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, or Made Dishes. _ (No. 380. Seealso No. 375. )

Pound some veal in a marble mortar; rub it through a sieve with as muchof the udder as you have veal, or about a third of the quantity ofbutter: put some bread-crumbs into a stew-pan, moisten them with milk, add a little chopped parsley and eschalot, rub them well together in amortar till they form a smooth paste; put it through a sieve, and, whencold, pound, and mix all together, with the yelks of three eggs boiledhard; season it with salt, pepper, and curry powder, or Cayenne; add toit the yelks of two raw eggs; rub it well together, and make smallballs: ten minutes before your soup is ready, put them in. 

_Egg Balls. _--(No. 381. )

Boil four eggs for ten minutes, and put them into cold water; when theyare quite cold, put the yelks into a mortar with the yelk of a raw egg, a tea-spoonful of flour, same of chopped parsley, as much salt as willlie on a shilling, and a little black pepper, or Cayenne; rub them welltogether, roll them into small balls (as they swell in boiling); boilthem a couple of minutes. 

_Brain Balls. _

See No. 247, or beat up the brains of a calf in the way we have abovedirected the egg. 

_Curry Balls for Mock Turtle, Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, &c. _ (No. 382. )

Are made with bread-crumbs, the yelk of an egg boiled hard, and a bit offresh butter about half as big, beaten together in a mortar, andseasoned with curry powder (No. 455): make and prepare small balls, asdirected in No. 381. 

_Fish Forcemeat. _--(No. 383. )

Take two ounces of either turbot, sole, lobster, shrimps, or oysters;free from skin, put it in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter, oneounce of bread-crumbs, the yelk of two eggs boiled-hard, and a littleeschalot, grated lemon-peel, and parsley, minced very fine; then poundit well till it is thoroughly mixed and quite smooth; season it withsalt and Cayenne to your taste; break in the yelk and white of one egg, rub it well together, and it is ready for use. Oysters parboiled andminced fine, and an anchovy, may be added. 

_Zest Balls. _--(No. 386. See No. 255. )

Prepared in the same way as No. 381. 

_Orange or Lemon-peel, to mix with Stuffing. _--(No. 387. )

Peel a Seville orange, or lemon, very thin, taking off only the fineyellow rind (without any of the white); pound it in a mortar with a bitof lump sugar; rub it well with the peel; by degrees add a little of theforcemeat it is to be mixed with: when it is well ground and blendedwith this, mix it with the whole: there is no other way of incorporatingit so well. 

Forcemeats, &c. Are frequently spoiled by the insufficient mixing of theingredients. 

_Clouted or Clotted Cream. _--(No. 388. )

The milk which is put into the pans one morning stands till the next;then set the pan on a hot hearth, or in a copper tray[267-*] half fullof water; put this over a stove; in from ten to twenty minutes, according to the quantity of the milk and the size of the pan, it willbe done enough; the sign of which is, that bladders rise on its surface;this denotes that it is near boiling, which it must by no means do; andit must be instantly removed from the fire, and placed in the dairy tillthe next morning, when the fine cream is thrown up, and is ready for thetable, or for butter, into which it is soon converted by stirring itwith the hand. 

N. B. This receipt we have not proved. 

_Raspberry Vinegar. _--(No. 390. )

The best way to make this, is to pour three pints of the best white winevinegar on a pint and a half of fresh-gathered red raspberries in astone jar, or China bowl (neither glazed earthenware, nor any metallicvessel, must be used); the next day strain the liquor over a likequantity of fresh raspberries; and the day following do the same. Thendrain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a jelly bag(previously wetted with plain vinegar) into a stone jar, with a pound ofpounded lump sugar to each pint. When the sugar is dissolved, stir itup, cover down the jar, and set it in a saucepan of water, and keep itboiling for an hour, taking off the scum; add to each pint a glass ofbrandy, and bottle it: mixed in about eight parts of water, it is a veryrefreshing and delightful summer drink. An excellent cooling beverage toassuage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, and inflammatory complaints, &c. And is agreeable to most palates. 

See No. 479*. 

N. B. We have not proved this receipt. 

_Syrup of Lemons. _--(No. 391. )

The best season for lemons is from November to March. Put a pint offresh lemon-juice to a pound and three-quarters of lump sugar; dissolveit by a gentle heat; skim it till the surface is quite clear; add anounce of thin-cut lemon-peel; let them simmer (very gently) together fora few minutes, and run it through a flannel. When cold, bottle and corkit closely, and keep it in a cool place. _Or_, Dissolve a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, _i. E. _crystallized lemon acid, in a pint of clarified syrup (No. 475); flavourit with the peel, with No. 408, or dissolve the acid in equal parts ofsimple syrup (No. 475), and syrup of lemon-peel, as made No. 393. 

_The Justice’s Orange Syrup for Punch or Puddings. _--(No. 392. )

Squeeze the oranges, and strain the juice from the pulp into a largepot; boil it up with a pound and a half of fine sugar to each point ofjuice; skim it well; let it stand till cold; then bottle it, and cork itwell. 

_Obs. _--This makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavoured punch; and, added tomelted butter, is a good relish to puddings. 

_Syrup of Orange or Lemon-peel. _--(No. 393. )

Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange or lemon-peel, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight; boiling water a pint and a half; infuse them for anight in a close vessel; then strain the liquor: let it stand to settle;and having poured it off clear from the sediment, dissolve in it twopounds of double-refined loaf sugar, and make it into a syrup with agentle heat. 

_Obs. _--In making this syrup, if the sugar be dissolved in the infusionwith as gentle a heat as possible, to prevent the exhalation of thevolatile parts of the peel, this syrup will possess a great share of thefine flavour of the orange, or lemon-peel. 

_Vinegar for Salads. _--(No. 395. )

“Take of tarragon, savoury, chives, eschalots, three ounces each; ahandful of the tops of mint and balm, all dry and pounded; put into awide-mouthed bottle, with a gallon of best vinegar; cork it close, setit in the sun, and in a fortnight strain off, and squeeze the herbs; letit stand a day to settle, and then strain it through a filtering bag. ”From PARMENTIER’S _Art de faire les Vinaigres_, 8vo. 1805, p. 205. 

_Tarragon Vinegar. _--(No. 396. )

This is a very agreeable addition to soups, salad sauce (No. 455), andto mix mustard (No. 370). Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gatheredtarragon-leaves, _i. E. _ between midsummer and Michaelmas (which shouldbe gathered on a dry day, just before it flowers), and pick the leavesoff the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire; cover them withthe best vinegar; let them steep fourteen days; then strain through aflannel jelly bag till it is fine; then pour it into half-pint bottles;cork them carefully, and keep them in a dry place. 

_Obs. _ You may prepare elder-flowers and herbs in the same manner; elderand tarragon are those in most general use in this country. 

Our neighbours, the French, prepare vinegars flavoured with celery, cucumbers, capsicums, garlic, eschalot, onion, capers, chervil, cress-seed, burnet, truffles, Seville orange-peel, ginger, &c. ; inshort, they impregnate them with almost every herb, fruit, flower, andspice, separately, and in innumerable combinations. 

Messrs. Maille et Aclocque, _Vinaigriers à Paris_, sell sixty-five sortsof variously flavoured vinegar, and twenty-eight different sorts ofmustard. 

_Basil Vinegar or Wine. _--(No. 397. )

Sweet basil is in full perfection about the middle of August. Fill awide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of basil (these givemuch finer and more flavour than the dried), and cover them withvinegar, or wine, and let them steep for ten days: if you wish a verystrong essence, strain the liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, and letthem steep fourteen days more. 

_Obs. _ This is a very agreeable addition to sauces, soups, and to themixture usually made for salads. See Nos. 372 and 453. 

It is a secret the makers of mock turtle may thank us for telling; atable-spoonful put in when the soup is finished will impregnate a tureenof soup with the basil and acid flavours, at very small cost, when freshbasil and lemons are extravagantly dear. 

The flavour of the other sweet and savoury herbs, celery, &c. May beprocured, and preserved in the same manner (No. 409, or No. 417), byinfusing them in wine or vinegar. 

_Cress Vinegar. _--(No. 397*. )

Dry and pound half an ounce of cress-seed (such as is sown in the gardenwith mustard), pour upon it a quart of the best vinegar, let it steepten days, shaking it up every day. 

_Obs. _ This is very strongly flavoured with cress; and for salads andcold meats, &c. It is a great favourite with many: the quart of saucecosts only a half-penny more than the vinegar. 

Celery vinegar is made in the same manner. 

The crystal vinegar (No. 407*), which is, we believe, the pyroligneousacid, is the best for receiving flavours, having scarcely any of itsown. 

_Green Mint Vinegar_, --(No. 398. )

Is made precisely in the same manner, and with the same proportions asin No. 397. 

_Obs. _--In the early season of housed lamb, green mint is sometimes notto be got; the above is then a welcome substitute. 

_Burnet or Cucumber Vinegar. _--(No. 399. )

This is made in precisely the same manner as directed in No. 397. Theflavour of burnet resembles cucumber so exactly, that when infused invinegar, the nicest palate would pronounce it to be cucumber. 

_Obs. _--This is a very favourite relish with cold meat, salads, &c. 

Burnet is in best season from midsummer to Michaelmas. 

_Horseradish Vinegar. _--(No. 399*. )

Horseradish is in highest perfection about November. 

Pour a quart of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped horseradish, anounce of minced eschalot, and one drachm of Cayenne; let it stand aweek, and you will have an excellent relish for cold beef, salads, &c. Costing scarcely any thing. 

N. B. A portion of black pepper and mustard, celery or cress-seed, may beadded to the above. 

_Obs. _--Horseradish powder (No. 458*). 

_Garlic Vinegar. _--(No. 400. )

Garlic is ready for this purpose from midsummer to Michaelmas. 

Peel and chop two ounces of garlic, pour on them a quart of white winevinegar, stop the jar close, and let it steep ten days, shaking it wellevery day; then pour off the clear liquor into small bottles. 

_Obs. _--The cook must be careful not to use too much of this; a fewdrops of it will give a pint of gravy a sufficient smack of the garlic, the flavour of which, when slight and well blended, is one of the finestwe have; when used in excess, it is the most offensive. 

The best way to use garlic, is to send up some of this vinegar in acruet, and let the company flavour their own sauce as they like. 

N. B. The most elegant preparation of the onion tribe is the eschalotwine, No. 402. 

_Eschalot Vinegar_, --(No. 401. )

Is made in the same manner, and the cook should never be without one ofthese useful auxiliaries; they cost scarcely any thing but the littletrouble of making, and will save a great deal of trouble in flavouringsoups and sauces with a taste of onion. 

N. B. Eschalots are in high perfection during July, August, andSeptember. 

_Eschalot Wine. _--(No. 402. )

Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, three ounces of eschalots, andinfuse them in a pint of sherry for ten days; then pour off the clearliquor on three ounces more eschalots, and let the wine stand on themten days longer. 

_Obs. _--This is rather the most expensive, but infinitely the mostelegant preparation of eschalot, and imparts the onion flavour to soupsand sauces, for chops, steaks, or boiled meats, hashes, &c. Moreagreeably than any: it does not leave any unpleasant taste in the mouth, or to the breath; nor repeat, as almost all other preparations ofgarlic, onion, &c. Do. 

N. B. An ounce of scraped horseradish may be added to the above, and alittle thin-cut lemon-peel, or a few drops of No. 408. 

_Camp Vinegar. _--(No. 403. )

 Cayenne pepper, one drachm, avoirdupois weight. Soy, two table-spoonfuls. Walnut catchup, four ditto. Six anchovies chopped. A small clove of garlic, minced fine. 

Steep all for a month in a pint of the best vinegar, frequently shakingthe bottle: strain through a tamis, and keep it in small bottles, corkedas tightly as possible. 

_Cayenne Pepper. _--(No. 404. )

Mr. Accum has informed the public (see his book on Adulterations) thatfrom some specimens that came direct to him from India, and othersobtained from respectable oil shops in London, he has extracted lead!

“Foreign Cayenne pepper is an indiscriminate mixture of the powder ofthe dried pods of many species of capsicums, especially of the birdpepper, which is the hottest of all. As it comes to us from the WestIndies, it changes the infusion of turnsole to a beautiful green, probably owing to the salt, which is always added to it, and the redoxide of lead, with which it is said to be adulterated. ” DUNCAN’S _NewEdinburgh Dispensary_, 1819, Article _Capsicum_, p. 81. 

The Indian Cayenne is prepared in a very careless manner, and oftenlooks as if the pods had lain till they were decayed, before they weredried: this accounts for the dirty brown appearance it commonly has. Ifproperly dried as soon as gathered, it will be of a clear red colour: togive it the complexion of that made with good fresh-gathered capsicumsor Chilies, some annatto, or other vegetable red colouring matter, ispounded with it: this, Mr. A. Assures us, is frequently adulterated withIndian red, _i. E. _ “red lead!”

When Cayenne is pounded, it is mixed with a considerable portion ofsalt, to prevent its flying up and hurting the eyes: this might beavoided by grinding it in a mill, which may easily be made close enough, especially if it be passed through a second time, and then siftedthrough a fine drum-headed sieve, to produce as fine a powder as can beobtained by pounding; however, our English chilies may be pounded in adeep mortar without any danger. 

The flavour of the Chilies is very superior to that of the capsicums, and will be good in proportion as they are dried as soon as possible, taking care they are not burned. 

Take away the stalks, and put the pods into a colander; set it beforethe fire; they will take full twelve hours to dry, then put them into amortar, with one-fourth their weight of salt, and pound them, and rubthem till they are fine as possible, and put them into a well-stoppedbottle. 

N. B. We advise those who are fond of Cayenne not to think it too muchtrouble to make it of English Chilies; there is no other way of beingsure it is genuine, and they will obtain a pepper of much finer flavour, without half the heat of the foreign. 

A hundred large Chilies, costing only two shillings, will produce youabout two ounces of Cayenne, so it is as cheap as the commonest Cayenne. 

Four hundred Chilies, when the stems were taken off, weighed half apound; and when dried, produced a quarter of a pound of Cayenne pepper. 

_Essence of Cayenne. _--(No. 405. )

Put half an ounce of Cayenne pepper (No. 404) into half a pint of brandyor wine; let it steep for a fortnight, and then pour off the clearliquor. 

This is nearly equal to fresh Chili juice. 

_Obs. _--This or the Chili vinegar (No. 405*, ) is extremely convenientfor the extempore seasoning and finishing of soups, sauces, &c. , itsflavour being instantly and equally diffused. Cayenne pepper varies somuch in strength, that it is impossible to season soup any other way tothe precise point of _piquance_. 

_Chili Vinegar. _--(No. 405*. )

This is commonly made with the foreign bird pepper; but you will obtaina much finer flavour from infusing fifty fresh red English Chilies (cutin half, or pounded) in a pint of the best vinegar for a fortnight, or aquarter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, No. 404. 

_Obs. _--Many people cannot eat fish without the addition of an acid, andCayenne pepper: to such palates this will be an agreeable relish. 

_Chili, or Cayenne Wine. _--(No. 406. )

Pound and steep fifty fresh red Chilies, or a quarter of an ounce ofCayenne pepper, in half a pint of brandy, white wine, or claret, forfourteen days. 

_Obs. _--This is a “_bonne bouche_” for the lovers of Cayenne, of whichit takes up a larger proportion of its flavour than of its fire; whichbeing instantly diffused, it is a very useful auxiliary to warm andfinish soups and sauces, &c. 

_Essence of Lemon-peel. _--(No. 407. )

Wash and brush clean the lemons; let them get perfectly dry: take a lumpof loaf sugar, and rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up by thesugar: scrape off the surface of the sugar into a preserving pot, andpress it hard down; cover it very close, and it will keep for sometime. 

In the same way you may get the essence of Seville orange-peel. 

_Obs. _ This method of procuring and preserving the flavour oflemon-peel, by making an _oleo-saccharum_, is far superior to the commonpractice of paring off the rind, or grating it, and pounding, or mixingthat with sugar: by this process you obtain the whole of the fine, fragrant, essential oil, in which is contained the flavour. 

_Artificial Lemon-juice. _--(No. 407*. )

If you add a drachm of lump sugar, pounded, and six drops of No. 408, tothree ounces of crystal vinegar, which is the name given to thepyroligneous vinegar, you will have an excellent substitute forlemon-juice--for fish sauces and soups, and many other culinarypurposes. The flavour of the lemon may also be communicated to thevinegar by infusing some lemon-peel in it. 

N. B. The pyroligneous vinegar is perfectly free from all flavour, savethat of the pure acid; therefore, it is a very valuable menstruum forreceiving impregnations from various flavouring materials. 

The pyroligneous acid seems likely to produce quite a revolution in theprocess of curing hams, herrings, &c. &c. See TILLOCH’S _PhilosophicalMagazine_, 1821, No. 173, p. 12. 

_Quintessence of Lemon-peel. _--(No. 408. )

Best oil of lemon, one drachm, strongest rectified spirit, two ounces, introduced by degrees till the spirit kills, and completely mixes withthe oil. This elegant preparation possesses all the delightful fragranceand flavour of the freshest lemon-peel. 

_Obs. _ A few drops on the sugar you make punch with will instantlyimpregnate it with as much flavour as the troublesome and tedious methodof grating the rind, or rubbing the sugar on it. 

It will be found a superlative substitute for fresh lemon-peel for everypurpose that it is used for: blanc mange, jellies, custards, ice, negus, lemonade, and pies and puddings, stuffings, soups, sauces, ragoûts, &c. 

See also No. 393. 

_Tincture of Lemon-peel. _--(No. 408*. )

A very easy and economical way of obtaining, and preserving the flavourof lemon-peel, is to fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full ofbrandy, or proof spirit; and when you use a lemon, pare the rind offvery thin, and put it into the brandy, &c. : in a fortnight it willimpregnate the spirit with the flavour very strongly. 

_Essence of Celery. _--(No. 409. )

 Brandy, or proof spirit, a quarter of a pint. Celery-seed bruised, half an ounce, avoirdupois weight. 

Let it steep for a fortnight. 

_Obs. _--A few drops will immediately flavour a pint of broth, and are anexcellent addition to pease, and other soups, and the salad mixture ofoil, vinegar, &c. (No. 392. )

N. B. To make celery sauce, see No. 289. 

_Aromatic Essence of Ginger. _--(No. 411. )

Three ounces of fresh-grated[275-*] ginger, and two ounces of thin-cutlemon-peel, into a quart of brandy, or proof spirit (apothecaries’measure); let it stand for ten days, shaking it up each day. 

_Obs. _--The proper title for this would be “tincture of ginger:”however, as it has obtained the name of “essence, ” so let it be called. 

N. B. If ginger is taken to produce an immediate effect, to warm thestomach, or dispel flatulence, this is the best preparation. 

_Essence of Allspice for mulling of Wine. _--(No. 412. )

Oil of pimento, a drachm, apothecaries’ measure, strong spirit of wine, two ounces, mixed by degrees: a few drops will give the flavour ofallspice to a pint of gravy, or mulled wine, or to make a bishop. Mulledwine made with Burgundy is called bishop; with old Rhenish wine, cardinal; and with Tokay, Pope. RITTER’S _Weinlehres_, p. 200. 

_Tincture[275-+] of Allspice. _--(No. 413. )

 Of allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. Brandy, a quart. 

Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then pour off theclear liquor: it is a most grateful addition in all cases where allspiceis used, for making a bishop, or to mulled wine extempore, or ingravies, &c. , or to flavour and preserve potted meats (No. 503). See SIRHANS SLOANE’S _Obs. On Allspice_, p. 96. 

_Tincture of Nutmeg. _--(No. 413*. )

Is made with the same proportions of nutmeg and brandy, as ordered forallspice. See _Obs. _ to No. 415. 

_Essence of Clove and Mace. _--(No. 414. )

 Strongest spirit of wine, two ounces, apothecaries’ measure. Oil of nutmeg, or clove, or mace, a drachm, apothecaries’ measure. 

_Tincture of Clove. _--(No. 415. )

 Cloves bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. Brandy, one quart. 

Let it steep ten days: strain it through a flannel sieve. 

_Obs. _--Excellent to flavour “bishop, ” or “mulled wine. ”

_Essence of Cinnamon. _--(No. 416. )

 Strongest rectified spirit of wine, two ounces. Oil of Cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. 

_Tincture of Cinnamon. _--(No. 416*. )

This exhilarating cordial is made by pouring a bottle of genuine cognac(No. 471, ) on three ounces of bruised cinnamon (cassia will not do). 

This restorative was more in vogue formerly than it is now: atea-spoonful of it, and a lump of sugar, in a glass of good sherry orMadeira, with the yelk of an egg beat up in it, was called “_balsamumvitæ_. ”

 “_Cur moriatur homo, qui sumit de cinnamomo?_”--“Cinnamon is verie comfortable to the stomacke, and the principall partes of the bodie. ”

 “_Ventriculum, jecur, lienem, cerebrum, nervosque juvat et roborat. _”--“I reckon it a great treasure for a student to have by him in his closet, to take now and then a spoonful. ”--COGAN’S _Haven of Health_, 4to. 1584, p. 111. 

_Obs. _--Two tea-spoonfuls in a wine-glass of water, are a present andpleasant remedy in nervous languors, and in relaxations of the bowels:in the latter case, five drops of laudanum may be added to each dose. 

_Essence of Marjoram. _--(No. 417. )

 Strongest rectified spirit, two ounces. Oil of origanum, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. 

_Vegetable Essences. _--(No. 417*. )

The flavour of the various sweet and savoury herbs may be obtained bycombining their essential oils with rectified spirit of wine, in theproportion of one drachm of the former to two ounces of the latter, orby picking the leaves, and laying them for a couple of hours in a warmplace to dry, and then filling a large-mouthed bottle with them, andpouring on them wine, brandy, proof spirit, or vinegar, and letting themsteep for fourteen days. 

_Soup-herb[277-*] Spirit. _--(No. 420. )

 Of lemon-thyme, Winter savoury, Sweet marjoram, Sweet basil, --half an ounce of each. Lemon-peel grated, two drachms. Eschalots, the same. Celery-seed, a drachm, avoirdupois weight. 

Prepare them as directed in No. 461; and infuse them in a pint ofbrandy, or proof spirit, for ten days: they may also be infused in wineor vinegar, but neither extract the flavour of the ingredients half sowell as the spirit. 

_Spirit of Savoury Spice. _--(No. 421. )

 Black pepper, an ounce; allspice, half an ounce, pounded fine. Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce, avoirdupois weight. 

Infuse in a pint of brandy, or proof spirit, for ten days; or, infusethe ingredients enumerated in No. 457, in a quart of brandy, or proofspirit, for the like time. 

_Soup-herb and Savoury Spice Spirit. _--(No. 422. )

Mix half a pint of soup-herb spirit with a quarter of a pint of spiritof savoury spice. 

_Obs. _--These preparations are valuable auxiliaries to immediatelyheighten the flavour, and finish soups, sauces, ragoûts, &c. , will savemuch time and trouble to the cook, and keep for twenty years. 

_Relish for Chops, &c. _--(No. 423. )

Pound fine an ounce of black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice, withan ounce of salt, and half an ounce of scraped horseradish, and the sameof eschalots, peeled and quartered; put these ingredients into a pint ofmushroom catchup, or walnut pickle, and let them steep for a fortnight, and then strain it. 

_Obs. _--A tea-spoonful or two of this is generally an acceptableaddition, mixed with the gravy usually sent up for chops and steaks (seeNo. 356); or added to thick melted butter. 

_Fish Sauce. _--(No. 425. )

Two wine-glasses of port, and two of walnut pickle, four of mushroomcatchup, half a dozen anchovies, pounded, the like number of eschalotssliced and pounded, a table-spoonful of soy, and half a drachm ofCayenne pepper; let them simmer gently for ten minutes; strain it, andwhen cold, put it into bottles; well corked, and sealed over, it willkeep for a considerable time. 

_Obs. _--This is commonly called Quin’s sauce, and was given to me by avery sagacious sauce-maker. 

_Keeping Mustard. _--(No. 427. )

Dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boiling water, or rathervinegar, and pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped horseradish; closelycover down the jar, and let it stand twenty-four hours: strain, and mixit by degrees with the best Durham flour of mustard, beat well togethertill quite smooth, and of the proper thickness; put into a wide-mouthedbottle, and stop it closely. For the various ways to flavour mustard, see No. 370. 

_Sauce Superlative. _[278-*]--(No. 429. )

 Claret, or port wine, and mushroom catchup (see No. 439), a pint of each. Half a pint of walnut or other pickle liquor. Pounded anchovies, four ounces. Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce. Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same. Scraped horseradish, ditto. Allspice, and Black pepper powdered, half an ounce each. Cayenne, one drachm, or curry-powder, three drachms. Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. All avoirdupois weight. 

Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it up everyday for a fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by theaddition of a quarter of a pint of soy, or thick browning, see No. 322), and you will have a “delicious double relish. ”

⁂ This composition is one of the “chefs d’œuvre” of many experimentsI have made, for the purpose of enabling the good housewives of GreatBritain to prepare their own sauces: it is equally agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragoûts, &c. , and as a fair lady may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, by the certainty that all theingredients are good and wholesome. 

_Obs. _--Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of thesubstances necessary to make sauce: the above composition of the severalarticles from which the various gravies derive their flavour, will befound a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a largetable-spoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, broth, or No. 252, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishingsauce, nearly equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingualnerves into good humour as any thing I know. 

To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c. Put a piece of butter about asbig as an egg into a stew-pan, set it on the fire; when it is melted, put to it a table-spoonful of flour; stir it thoroughly together, andadd to it two table-spoonfuls of sauce, and by degrees about half a pintof broth, or boiling water, let it simmer gently over a slow fire for afew minutes, skim it and strain it through a sieve, and it is ready. 

_Quintessence of Anchovy. _--(No. 433. )

The goodness of this preparation depends almost entirely on having finemellow fish, that have been in pickle long enough (_i. E. _ about twelvemonths) to dissolve easily, yet are not at all rusty. 

Choose those that are in the state they come over in, not such as havebeen put into fresh pickle, mixed with red paint, [280-*] which some addto improve the complexion of the fish; it has been said, that othershave a trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled sprats;[280-+] youwill easily discover this by washing one of them, and tasting the fleshof it, which in the fine anchovy is mellow, red, and high-flavoured, andthe bone moist and oily. Make only as much as will soon be used, thefresher it is the better. 

Put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar, and pound them to a pulp; putthis into a very clean iron, or silver, or very well tinned saucepan;then put a large table-spoonful of cold spring-water (we prefer goodvinegar) into the mortar; shake it round, and pour it to the poundedanchovies, set them by the side of a slow fire, very frequently stirringthem together till they are melted, which they will be in the course offive minutes. Now stir in a quarter of a drachm of good Cayenne pepper(No. 404). And let it remain by the side of the fire for a few minuteslonger; then, while it is warm, rub it through a hair-sieve, [280-++]with the back of a wooden spoon. 

The essence of anchovy, which is prepared for the committee of taste, ismade with double the above quantity of water, as they are of opinionthat it ought to be so thin as not to hang about the sides of thebottle; when it does, the large surface of it is soon acted upon by theair, and becomes rancid and spoils all the rest of it. 

A roll of thin-cut lemon-peel infused with the anchovy, imparts a fine, fresh, delicate, aromatic flavour, which is very grateful; this is onlyrecommended when you make sauce for immediate use; it will keep muchbetter without: if you wish to acidulate it, instead of water make itwith artificial lemon-juice (No. 407*), or add a little of Coxwell’sconcrete acid to it. 

_Obs. _--The above is the proper way to perfectly dissolveanchovy, [281-*] and to incorporate it with the water; which, ifcompletely saturated, will continue suspended. 

To prevent the separation of essence of anchovy, and give it theappearance of being fully saturated with fish, various other expedientshave been tried, such as dissolving the fish in thin water gruel, orbarley-water, or thickening it with mucilage, flour, &c. : when any ofthese things are added, it does not keep half so well as it does withoutthem; and to preserve it, they overload it with Cayenne pepper. 

MEM. --You cannot make essence of anchovy half so cheap as you can buyit. Thirty prime fish, weighing a pound and a quarter, and costing 4_s. _6_d. _, and two table-spoonfuls of water, made me only half a pint ofessence; you may commonly buy that quantity ready-made for 2_s. _, and wehave seen an advertisement offering it for sale as low as 2_s. _ 6_d. _per quart. 

It must be kept very closely stopped; when you tap a bottle of sauce, throw away the old perforated cork, and put in a new taper velvet cork;if the air gets to it, the fish takes the rust, [281-+] and it is spoileddirectly. 

Essence of anchovy is sometimes coloured[281-++] with bole armeniac, Venice red, &c. ; but all these additions deteriorate the flavour of thesauce, and the palate and stomach suffer for the gratification of theeye, which, in culinary concerns, will never be indulged by thesagacious gourmand at the expense of these two _primum mobiles_ of hispursuits. 

⁂ Essence of anchovy is sometimes made with sherry or Madeira wine, orgood mushroom catchup (No. 439), instead of water. If you like the acidflavour, add a little citric acid, or dissolve them in good vinegar. 

N. B. This is infinitely the most convenient way of using anchovy, aseach guest may mix sauce for himself, and make it strong or weak, according to his own taste. 

It is also much more economical, as plain melted butter (No. 256) servesfor other purposes at table. 

_Anchovy Paste, or le Beurre d’Anchois. _--(No. 434. )

Pound them in a mortar; then rub it through a fine sieve; pot it, coverit with clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place. 

N. B. If you have essence of anchovy, you may make anchovy pasteextempore, by rubbing the essence with as much flour as will make apaste. _Mem. _--This is merely mentioned as the means of making itimmediately; it will not keep. 

_Obs. _--This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by the addition of alittle flour of mustard, a pickled walnut, spice (No. 460), curry powder(No. 455), or Cayenne; and it then becomes a rival to “_la véritablesauce d’enfer_” (No. 528), or _pâté à la diable_ for deviling biscuits(No. 574), grills (No. 538), &c. It is an excellent garnish for fish, put in pats round the edge of the dish, or will make anchovy toast (No. 573), or devil a biscuit (No. 574), &c. In high style. 

_Anchovy Powder. _--(No. 435. )

Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and make them intoa paste with dried flour, roll it into thin cakes, and dry them in aDutch oven before a slow fire; pounded to a fine powder, and put into awell-stopped bottle, it will keep for years; it is a very savouryrelish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a sandwich, &c. See OysterPowder (No. 280). 

_Obs. _--To this may be added a small portion of Cayenne pepper, gratedlemon-peel, and citric acid. 

_Walnut Catchup. _--(No. 438. )

Take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into a tub, mixthem up well with common salt, (from two to three pounds, ) let themstand for six days, frequently beating and mashing them; by this timethe shells become soft and pulpy; then by banking it up on one side ofthe tub, and at the same time by raising the tub on that side, theliquor will drain clear off to the other; then take that liquor out: themashing and banking-up may be repeated as often as liquor is found. Thequantity will be about six quarts. When done, let it be simmered in aniron boiler as long as any scum arises; then bruise a quarter of a poundof ginger, a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients; let it slowly boil forhalf an hour; when bottled, let an equal quantity of the spice go intoeach bottle; when corked, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork themtight, seal them over, and put them into a cool and dry place for oneyear before they are used. 

N. B. For the above we are indebted to a respectable oilman, who has manyyears proved the receipt. 

_Mushroom Catchup. _--(No. 439. )

If you love good catchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, [283-*] afterthe following directions, and you will have a delicious relish formade-dishes, ragoûts, soups, sauces, or hashes. 

Mushroom gravy approaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy, morethan any vegetable juice, and is the superlative substitute for it: inmeagre soups and extempore gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yetcontrived to agreeably awaken the palate, and encourage the appetite. 

A couple of quarts of double catchup, made according to the followingreceipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal oftime and trouble; as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce ascan be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. See No. 307. 

I believe the following is the best way of extracting and preparing theessence of mushrooms, so as to procure and preserve their flavour for aconsiderable length of time. 

Look out for mushrooms from the beginning of September. 

Take care they are the right sort, and fresh gathered. Full-grown flapsare to be preferred: put a layer of these at the bottom of a deepearthen pan, and sprinkle them with salt; then another layer ofmushrooms, and some more salt on them; and so on alternately, salt andmushrooms: let them remain two or three hours, by which time the saltwill have penetrated the mushrooms, and rendered them easy to break;then pound them in a mortar, or mash them well with your hands, and letthem remain for a couple of days, not longer, stirring them up andmashing them well each day; then pour them into a stone jar, and to eachquart add an ounce and a half of whole black pepper, and half an ounceof allspice; stop the jar very close, and set it in a stew-pan ofboiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least. Take out thejar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings through a hair-sieve(without squeezing[284-*] the mushrooms) into a clean stew-pan; let itboil very gently for half an hour: those who are for superlativecatchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom-juice is reduced tohalf the quantity; it may then be called double cat-sup or dog-sup. 

There are several advantages attending this concentration; it will keepmuch better, and only half the quantity be required; so you can flavoursauce, &c. Without thinning it: neither is this an extravagant way ofmaking it, for merely the aqueous part is evaporated; skim it well, andpour it into a clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let it standin a cool place till next day; then pour it off as gently as possible(so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug, ) through atamis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly clear; add atable-spoonful of good brandy to each pint of catchup, and let it standas before; a fresh sediment will be deposited, from which the catchup isto be quietly poured off, and bottled in pints or half pints (which havebeen washed with brandy or spirit): it is best to keep it in suchquantities as are soon used. 

Take especial care that it is closely corked, and sealed down, or dippedin bottle cement. 

If kept in a cool, dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; butif it be badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil. 

Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neckof the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up againwith a few peppercorns. 

We have ordered no more spice, &c. Than is absolutely necessary to feedthe catchup, and keep it from fermenting, &c. 

The compound, commonly called catchup, is generally an injudiciouscombination of so many different tastes, that the flavour of themushroom is overpowered by a farrago of garlic, eschalot, anchovy, mustard, horseradish, lemon-peel, beer, wine, spice, &c. 

_Obs. _--A table-spoonful of double catchup will impregnate half a pintof sauce with the full flavour of mushroom, in much greater perfectionthan either pickled or powder of mushrooms. 

_Quintessence of Mushrooms. _--(No. 440. )

This delicate relish is made by sprinkling a little salt over eitherflap or button mushrooms; three hours after, mash them; next day, strainoff the liquor that will flow from them; put it into a stew-pan, andboil it till it is reduced to half. 

It will not keep long, but is preferable to any of the catchups, which, in order to preserve them, must have spice, &c. , which overpowers theflavour of the mushrooms. 

An artificial mushroom bed will supply this all the year round. 

To make sauce with this, see No. 307. 

_Oyster Catchup. _--(No. 441. )

Take fine fresh Milton oysters; wash them in their own liquor; skim it;pound them in a marble mortar; to a pint of oysters add a pint ofsherry; boil them up, and add an ounce of salt, two drachms of poundedmace, and one of Cayenne; let it just boil up again; skim it, and rub itthrough a sieve, and when cold, bottle it, cork it well, and seal itdown. 

_Obs. _--See also No. 280, and Obs. To No. 278. 

N. B. It is the best way to pound the salt and spices, &c. With theoysters. 

_Obs. _--This composition very agreeably heightens the flavour of whitesauces, and white made-dishes; and if you add a glass of brandy to it, it will keep good for a considerable time longer than oysters are out ofseason in England. 

_Cockle and Muscle Catchup_, --(No. 442. )

May be made by treating them in the same way as the oysters in thepreceding receipt. 

_Pudding Catchup. _--(No. 446. )

Half a pint of brandy, “essence of punch” (No. 479), or “Curaçoa” (No. 474), or “Noyeau, ” a pint of sherry, an ounce of thin-pared lemon-peel, half an ounce of mace, and steep them for fourteen days, then strain it, and add a quarter of a pint of capillaire, or No. 476. This will keepfor years, and, mixed with melted butter, is a delicious relish topuddings and sweet dishes. See Pudding Sauce, No. 269, and the Justice’sOrange Syrup, No. 392. 

_Potato[286-*] Starch. _--(No. 448. )

Peel and wash a pound of full-grown potatoes, grate them on abread-grater into a deep dish, containing a quart of clear water; stirit well up, and then pour it through a hair-sieve, and leave it tenminutes to settle, till the water is quite clear: then pour off thewater, and put a quart of fresh water to it; stir it up, let it settle, and repeat this till the water is quite clear; you will at last find afine white powder at the bottom of the vessel. (The criterion of thisprocess being completed, is the purity of the water that comes from itafter stirring it up. ) Lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair-sieve todry, either in the sun or before the fire, and it is ready for use, andin a well-stopped bottle will keep good for many months. 

If this be well made, half an ounce (_i. E. _ a table-spoonful) of itmixed with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, and stirred into a soup orsauce, just before you take it up, will thicken a pint of it to theconsistence of cream. 

_Obs. _--This preparation much resembles the “Indian arrow root, ” and isa good substitute for it; it gives a fulness on the palate to graviesand sauces at hardly any expense, and by some is used to thicken meltedbutter instead of flour. 

As it is perfectly tasteless, it will not alter the flavour of the mostdelicate broth, &c. 

_Of the Flour of Potatoes. _

“A patent has been recently obtained at Paris, a gold medal bestowed, and other honorary distinctions granted, for the discovery and practice, on a large scale, of preparing from potatoes a fine flour; a sago, aflour equal to ground rice; and a semolina or paste, of which 1_lb. _ isequal to 1-1/2_lbs. _ of rice, 1-3/4_lbs. _ of vermicelli, or, it isasserted, 8_lbs. _ of raw potatoes. 

“These preparations are found valuable to mix with wheaten flour forbread, to make biscuits, pastry, pie-crusts, and for all soups, gruels, and panada. 

“Large engagements have been made for these preparations with the Frenchmarine, and military and other hospitals, with the approbation of thefaculty. 

“An excellent bread, it is said, can be made of this flour, at half thecost of wheaten bread. 

“Heat having been applied in these preparations, the articles will keepunchanged for years, and on board ship, to China and back; rats, mice, worms, and insects do not infect or destroy this flour. 

“Simply mixed with cold water, they are in ten minutes fit for food, when fire and all other resource may be wanted; and twelve ounces aresufficient for a day’s sustenance, in case of necessity. 

“The physicians and surgeons in the hospitals, in cases of greatdebility of the stomach, have employed these preparations withadvantage. 

“The point of this discovery is, the cheapness of preparation, and theconversion of a surplus growth of potatoes into a keeping stock, in anelegant, portable, and salubrious form. ”

_Salad or piquante Sauce for cold Meat, Fish, &c. _--(No. 453. ) See alsoNo. 372. 

Pound together

 An ounce of scraped horseradish, Half an ounce of salt, A table-spoonful of made mustard, No. 370, Four drachms of minced eschalots, No. 409, Half a drachm of celery-seed, No. 409, And half ditto of Cayenne, No. 404, Adding gradually a pint of burnet (No. 399), or tarragon vinegar (No. 396), and let it stand in a jar a week, and then pass it through asieve. 

_Curry Powder. _--(No. 455. )

Put the following ingredients in a cool oven all night, and the nextmorning pound them in a marble mortar, and rub them through a finesieve. 

 _d. _ Coriander-seed, three ounces 3 Turmeric, three ounces 6 Black pepper, mustard, and ginger, one ounce of each 8 Allspice and less cardamoms, half an ounce of each 5 Cumin-seed, a quarter of an ounce 1

Thoroughly pound and mix together, and keep them in a well-stoppedbottle. 

Those who are fond of curry sauces, may steep three ounces of the powderin a quart of vinegar or white wine for ten days, and will get a liquorimpregnated with all the flavour of the powder. 

_Obs. _--This receipt was an attempt to imitate some of the best Indiancurry powder, selected for me by a friend at the India house: theflavour approximates to the Indian powder so exactly, the most profoundpalaticians have pronounced it a perfect copy of the original currystuff. 

The following remark was sent to the editor by an East Indian friend. 

“The ingredients which you have selected to form the curry powder, arethe same as are used in India, with this difference only, that some ofthem are in a raw green state, and are mashed together, and afterwarddried, powdered, and sifted. ” For Curry Sauce, see No. 348. 

N. B. Chickens, rabbits, sweetbreads, breasts of veal, veal cutlets, mutton, lamb, or pork chops, lobster, turbot, soles, eels, oysters, &c. Are dressed curry fashion, see No. 497; or stew them in No. 329 or No. 348, and flavour with No. 455. 

_Obs. _--The common fault of curry powder is the too great proportion ofCayenne (to the milder aromatics from which its agreeable flavour isderived), preventing a sufficient quantity of the curry powder beingused. 

_Savoury ragoût Powder. _--(No. 457. )

 Salt, an ounce, Mustard, half an ounce, Allspice, [288-*] a quarter of an ounce, Black pepper ground, and lemon-peel grated, or of No. 407, pounded and sifted fine, half an ounce each, Ginger, and Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce each, Cayenne pepper, two drachms. 

Pound them patiently, and pass them through a fine hair-sieve; bottlethem for use. The above articles will pound easier and finer, if theyare dried first in a Dutch oven[288-+] before a very gentle fire, at agood distance from it; if you give them much heat, the fine flavour ofthem will be presently evaporated, and they will soon get a strong, rank, empyreumatic taste. 

N. B. Infused in a quart of vinegar or wine, they make a savoury relishfor soups, sauces, &c. 

_Obs. _ The spices in a ragoût are indispensable to give it a flavour, but not a predominant one; their presence should be rather supposed thanperceived; they are the invisible spirit of good cookery: indeed, a cookwithout spice would be as much at a loss as a confectioner withoutsugar: a happy mixture of them, and proportion to each other and theother ingredients, is the “chef-d’œuvre” of a first-rate cook. 

The art of combining spices, &c. , which may be termed the “harmony offlavours, ” no one hitherto has attempted to teach: and “the rule ofthumb” is the only guide that experienced cooks have heretofore givenfor the assistance of the novice in the (till now, in these pagesexplained, and rendered, we hope, perfectly intelligible to the humblestcapacity) occult art of cookery. This is the first time receipts incookery have been given accurately by weight or measure!!!

(See _Obs. _ on “the education of a cook’s tongue, ” pages 52 and 53. )

_Pease Powder. _--(No. 458. )

Pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each of dried mint andsage, a drachm of celery-seed, and a quarter of a drachm of Cayennepepper; rub them through a fine sieve. This gives a very savoury relishto pease soup, and to water gruel, which, by its help, if the eater ofit has not the most lively imagination, he may fancy he is sipping goodpease soup. 

_Obs. _--A drachm of allspice, or black pepper, may be pounded with theabove as an addition, or instead of, the Cayenne. 

_Horseradish Powder. _--(No. 458*. )

The time to make this is during November and December; slice it thethickness of a shilling, and lay it to dry very gradually in a Dutchoven (a strong heat soon evaporates its flavour); when dry enough, poundit and bottle it. 

_Obs. _ See Horseradish Vinegar (No. 399*). 

_Soup-herb Powder, or Vegetable Relish. _--(No. 459. )

 Dried parsley, Winter savoury, Sweet marjoram, Lemon-thyme, of each two ounces; Lemon-peel, cut very thin, and dried, and Sweet basil, an ounce of each. 

⁂ Some add to the above bay-leaves and celery-seed, a drachm each. 

Dry them in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven: when quite dried, poundthem in a mortar, and pass them through a double hair-sieve; put them ina bottle closely stopped, they will retain their fragrance and flavourfor several months. 

N. B. These herbs are in full perfection in July and August (see No. 461*). An infusion of the above in vinegar or wine makes a goodrelishing sauce, but the flavour is best when made with fresh-gatheredherbs, as directed in No. 397. 

_Obs. _ This composition of the fine aromatic herbs is an invaluableacquisition to the cook in those seasons or situations when fresh herbscannot be had; and we prefer it to the ragoût powder, No. 457: itimpregnates sauce, soup, &c. With as much relish, and renders itagreeable to the palate, and refreshes the gustatory nerves, without somuch risk of offending the stomach, &c. 

_Soup-herb and Savoury Powder, or Quintessence of Ragoût. _--(No. 460. )

Take three parts of soup-herb powder (No. 459) to one part of savourypowder, No. 457. 

_Obs. _ This agreeable combination of the aromatic spices and herbsshould be kept ready prepared: it will save a great deal of time incooking ragoûts, stuffings, forcemeat-balls, soups, sauces, &c. ; keptdry, and tightly corked down, its fragrance and strength may bepreserved undiminished for some time. 

N. B. Three ounces of the above will impregnate a quart of vinegar orwine with a very agreeable relish. 

_To Dry sweet and savoury Herbs. _--(No. 461. )

For the following accurate and valuable information, the reader isindebted to Mr. BUTLER, herbalist and seedsman (opposite HenriettaStreet), Covent Garden market. 

“It is very important to those who are not in the constant habit ofattending the markets to know when the various seasons commence forpurchasing sweet herbs. 

“All vegetables are in the highest state of perfection, and fullest ofjuice and flavour, just before they begin to flower: the first and lastcrop have neither the fine flavour, nor the perfume of those which aregathered in the height of the season; that is, when the greater part ofthe crop of each species is ripe. 

“Take care they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will havea better colour when dried. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt anddust;[291-*] cut off the roots; separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a commonfire, in such quantities at a time, that the process may be speedilyfinished; _i. E. _ ‘Kill ’em quick, ’ says a great botanist; by this meanstheir flavour will be best preserved: there can be no doubt of thepropriety of drying herbs, &c. Hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of the sun. In the application of artificialheat, the only caution requisite is to avoid burning; and of this asufficient test is afforded by the preservation of the colour. ” Thecommon custom is, when they are perfectly dried to put them in bags, andlay them in a dry place; but the best way to preserve the flavour ofaromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried, andto pound them, and put them through a hair-sieve, and keep them inwell-stopped bottles. [291-+] See No. 459. 

 Basil is in the best state for drying from the middle of August, and three weeks after, see No. 397. 

 Knotted marjoram, from the beginning of July, and during the same. 

 Winter savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout August, see _Obs. _ to No. 397. 

 Summer savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout August. 

 Thyme, lemon-thyme, orange-thyme, [291-++] during June and July. 

 Mint, latter end of June, and during July, see No. 398. 

 Sage, August and September. 

 Tarragon, June, July, and August, see No. 396. 

 Chervil, May, June, and July, see No. 264. 

 Burnet, June, July, and August, see No. 399. 

 Parsley, May, June, and July, see N. B. To No. 261. 

 Fennel, May, June, and July. 

 Elder flowers, May, June, and July. 

 Orange flowers, May, June, and July. 

N. B. Herbs nicely dried are a very acceptable substitute when fresh onescannot be got; but, however carefully dried, the flavour and fragranceof the fresh herbs are incomparably finer. 

THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE. --(No. 462. )

This is a convenient auxiliary to the cook: it may be arranged as apyramidical _epergne_ for a dormant in the centre of the table, or as atravelling store-chest. 

The following sketch will enable any one to fit up an assortment offlavouring materials according to their own fancy and palate; and, wepresume, will furnish sufficient variety for the amusement of thegustatory nerves of a thorough-bred _grand gourmand_ of the firstmagnitude (if Cayenne and garlic have not completely consumed thesensibility of his palate), and consists of a “SAUCE-BOX, ” containingfour eight-ounce bottles, [292-*] sixteen four ounce, and eight two-ouncebottles:--

 1. Pickles. 2. Brandy. 3. Curaçoa (No. 474). 4. Syrup (No. 475). 5. Salad sauce (Nos. 372 and 453). 6. Pudding catchup (No. 446). 7. Sauce superlative, or double relish (No. 429). 8. Walnut pickle. 9. Mushroom catchup (No. 439). 10. Vinegar. 11. Oil. 12. Mustard (see Nos. 370 and 427). 13. Salt (see No. 371). 14. Curry powder (No. 455). 15. Soy (No. 436). 16. Lemon-juice. 17. Essence of anchovy (No. 433). 18. Pepper. 19. Cayenne (No. 405, or No. 406). 20. Soup-herb powder (No. 459). 21. Ragoût powder (No. 457). 22. Pease powder (No. 458). 23. Zest (No. 255). 24. Essence of celery (No. 409). 25. Sweet herbs (No. 419). 26. Lemon-peel (No. 408). 27. Eschalot wine (No. 402). 28. Powdered mint. 

_In a drawer under. _

 Half a dozen one ounce bottles. Weights and scales. A graduated glass measure, divided into tea- and table-spoons. Corkscrew. Nutmeg-grater. Table and tea-spoon. Knife and fork. A steel, and a Small mortar. 

 +-----+---+----+----+ | | 5 | 13 | 21 | | 1 +---+----+----+ | | 6 | 14 | 22 | +-----+---+----+----+ | | 7 | 15 | 23 | | 2 +---+----+----+ | | 8 | 16 | 24 | +-----+---+----+----+ | | 9 | 17 | 25 | | 3 +---+----+----+ | |10 | 18 | 26 | +-----+---+----+----+ | |11 | 19 | 27 | | 4 +---+----+----+ | |12 | 20 | 28 | +-----+---+----+----+

N. B. The portable magazine of taste, alluded to in page 44, may befurnished with a four-ounce bottle for Cognac (No. 471), a ditto forCuraçoa (No. 474), an ounce bottle for essence of anchovy (No. 433), andone of like size for mushroom catchup. 

_Toast and Water. _--(No. 463. )

Cut a crust of bread off a stale loaf, about twice the thickness toastis usually cut: toast it carefully until it be completely browned allover, but not at all blackened or burnt; pour as much boiling water asyou wish to make into drink, into the jug; put the toast into it, andlet it stand till it is quite cold: the fresher it is the better. 

_Obs. _--A roll of thin fresh-cut lemon, or dried orange-peel, or somecurrant-jelly (No. 475*), apples sliced or roasted, &c. Infused with thebread, are grateful additions. N. B. If the boiling water be poured onthe bread it will break it, and make the drink grouty. 

N. B. This is a refreshing summer drink; and when the proportion of thefluids is destroyed by profuse perspiration, may be drunk plentifully. Let a large jug be made early in the day, it will then become warmed bythe heat of the air, and may be drunk without danger; which water, coldas it comes from the well, cannot in hot weather. _Or_, To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, and just coverit with boiling water; let it stand till cold, then fill it up withcold spring-water, and pour it through a fine sieve. 

_Obs. _--The above is a pleasant and excellent beverage, grateful to thestomach, and deserves a constant place by the bed-side. 

_Cool Tankard, or Beer Cup. _--(No. 464. )

A quart of mild ale, a glass of white wine, one of brandy, one ofcapillaire, the juice of a lemon, a roll of the peel pared thin, nutmeggrated at the top (a sprig of borrage[294-*] or balm), and a bit oftoasted bread. 

_Cider Cup_, --(No. 465. )

Is the same, only substituting cider for beer. 

_Flip. _--(No. 466. )

Keep grated ginger and nutmeg with a little fine dried lemon-peel, rubbed together in a mortar. 

To make a quart of flip:--Put the ale on the fire to warm, and beat upthree or four eggs, with four ounces of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful ofgrated nutmeg or ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or brandy. Whenthe ale is near to boil, put it into one pitcher, and the rum and eggs, &c. Into another; turn it from one pitcher to another till it is assmooth as cream. 

N. B. This quantity I styled _one yard of flannel_. 

_Obs. _--The above is set down in the words of the publican who gave usthe receipt. 

_Tewahdiddle. _--(No. 467. )

A pint of table beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supplement to your“night cap”), a table-spoonful of brandy, and a tea-spoonful of brownsugar, or clarified syrup (No. 475); a little grated nutmeg or gingermay be added, and a roll of very thin-cut lemon-peel. 

_Obs. _--Before our readers make any remarks on this composition, we begof them to taste it: if the materials are good, and their palatevibrates in unison with our own, they will find it one of thepleasantest beverages they ever put to their lips; and, as Lord Ruthvensays, “this is a right gossip’s cup that far exceeds all the ale thatever Mother Bunch made in her life-time. ” See his Lordship’s_Experiments in Cookery_, &c. 18mo. London, 1654, p. 215. 

_Sir Fleetwood Shepherd’s Sack Posset. _--(No. 467*. )

 “From famed Barbadoes, on the western main, Fetch sugar, ounces four--fetch sack from Spain, A pint, --and from the eastern Indian coast Nutmeg, the glory of our northern toast; O’er flaming coals let them together heat, Till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet; O’er such another fire put eggs just ten, New-born from tread of cock and rump of hen: Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking To see the untimely end of ten fine chicken: From shining shelf take down the brazen skillet, -- A quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it. When boiled and cold, put milk and sack to eggs, Unite them firmly like the triple league, And on the fire let them together dwell Till Miss sing twice--you must not kiss and tell-- Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon, And fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon. ”

_To bottle Beer. _--(No. 468. )

When the briskness and liveliness of malt liquors in the cask fail, andthey become dead and vapid, which they generally do soon after they aretilted; let them be bottled. 

Be careful to use clean and dried bottles; leave them unstopped fortwelve hours, and then cork them as closely as possible with good andsound new corks; put a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into eachbottle: the beer will be ripe, _i. E. _ fine and sparkling, in about fouror five weeks: if the weather is cold, to put it up the day before it isdrunk, place it in a room where there is a fire. 

Remember there is a sediment, &c. At the bottom of the bottles, whichyou must carefully avoid disturbing; so pour it off at once, leaving awine-glassful at the bottom. 

⁂ If beer becomes hard or stale, a few grains of carbonate of potashadded to it at the time it is drunk will correct it, and make draughtbeer as brisk as bottled ale. 

_Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy. _--(No. 469. )

Bruise the finest ripe raspberries with the back of a spoon; strain themthrough a flannel bag into a stone jar, allowing a pound of finepowdered loaf sugar to each quart of juice; stir it well together, andcover it down; let it stand for three days, stirring it up each day;pour off the clear, and put two quarts of sherry, or one of Cognacbrandy, to each quart of juice; bottle it off: it will be fit for theglass in a fortnight. 

N. B. Or make it with the jelly, No. 479. 

_Liqueurs. _--(No. 471. )

We have very little to tell from our own experience, and refer ourreader to “_Nouvelle Chimie du Goût et de l’Odorat, ou l’Art duDistillateur, du Confiseur, et du Parfumeur, mis à la portée de tout leMonde_. ” Paris, 2 tom. 8vo. 1819. 

Next to teaching how to make good things at home, is the informationwhere those things may be procured ready made of the best quality. 

It is in vain to attempt to imitate the best foreign liqueurs, unless wecan obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they are made. 

Johnson and Co. , foreign liqueur and brandy merchants to his majesty andthe royal family, No. 2, Colonnade, Pall Mall, are justly famous forimporting of the best quality, and selling in a genuine state, seventy-one varieties of foreign liqueurs, &c. 

_Curaçoa. _--(No. 474. )

Put five ounces of thin-cut Seville orange-peel, that has been dried andpounded, or, which is still better, of the fresh peel of a freshshaddock, which may be bought at the orange and lemon shops in thebeginning of March, into a quart of the finest and cleanest rectifiedspirit; after it has been infused a fortnight, strain it, and add aquart of syrup (No. 475), and filter. See the following receipt:

_To make a Quart of Curaçoa. _

To a pint of the cleanest and strongest rectified spirit, add twodrachms and a half of the sweet oil of orange-peel; shake it up:dissolve a pound of good lump sugar in a pint of cold water; make thisinto a clarified syrup (No. 475): which add to the spirit: shake it up, and let it stand till the following day: then line a funnel with a pieceof muslin, and that with filtering-paper, and filter it two or threetimes till it is quite bright. This liqueur is an admirable cordial; anda tea-spoonful in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing summer drink, and a great improvement to punch. 

_Clarified Syrup. _--(No. 475. )

Break into bits two pounds (avoirdupois) of double refined lump sugar, and put it into a clean stew-pan (that is well tinned), with a pint ofcold spring-water; when the sugar is dissolved, set it over a moderatefire: beat about half the white of an egg, put it to the sugar before itgets warm, and stir it well together. Watch it; and when it boils takeoff the scum; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and it is perfectlyclear; then run it through a clean napkin: put it into a close stoppedbottle; it will keep for months, and is an elegant article on thesideboard for sweetening. 

_Obs. _--The proportion of sugar ordered in the above syrup is a quarterpound more than that directed in the Pharmacopœia of the London Collegeof Physicians. The quantity of sugar must be as much as the liquor iscapable of keeping dissolved when cold, or it will ferment, and quicklyspoil: if kept in a temperate degree of heat, the above proportion ofsugar may be considered the basis of all syrups. 

_Capillaire. _--(No. 476. )

To a pint of clarified syrup add a wine-glass of Curaçoa (No. 474); ordissolve a drachm of oil of Neroli in two ounces of rectified spirit, and add a few drops of it to clarified syrup. 

_Lemonade in a Minute. _--(No. 477. )

Pound a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, _i. E. _crystallized lemon acid, [297-*] with a few drops of quintessence oflemon-peel (No. 408), and mix it by degrees with a pint of clarifiedsyrup (No. 475), or capillaire. 

For superlative syrup of lemons, see No. 391. 

_Obs. _--The proportion of acid to the syrup, was that selected (fromseveral specimens) by the committee of taste. We advise those who aredisposed to verify our receipt, to mix only three quarters of a pint ofsyrup first, and add the other quarter if they find it too acid. 

If you have none of No. 408, flavour your syrup with thin-cutlemon-peel, or use syrup of lemon-peel (No. 393). 

A table-spoonful of this in a pint of water will immediately produce avery agreeable sherbet; the addition of rum or brandy will convert thisinto

_Punch directly. _--(No. 478. )

_Shrub, or Essence of Punch. _--(No. 479. )

Brandy or rum, flavoured with No. 477, will give you very good extempore“essence of punch. ”

_Obs. _--The addition of a quart of Sherry or Madeira makes “punchroyal;” if, instead of wine, the above quantity of water be added, itwill make “punch for chambermaids, ” according to SALMON’S _Cookery_, 8vo. London, 1710. See page 405; and No. 268 in NOTT’S _Cook’sDictionary_, 8vo. 1724. 

_White, Red, or Black Currant, Grape, Raspberry, &c. Jelly. _[298-*]--(No. 479*. )

Are all made precisely in the same manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day: as soon as it is nicely picked, put it into ajar, and cover it down very close. 

Set the jar in a saucepan about three parts filled with cold water; putit on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take thepan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag:pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. 

To each pint of juice add a pound and a half of very good lump sugarpounded; when it is dissolved, put it into a preserving-pan; set it onthe fire, and boil gently; stirring and skimming it the whole time(about thirty or forty minutes), _i. E. _ till no more scum rises, and itis perfectly clear and fine: pour it while warm into pots; and whencold, cover them with paper wetted in brandy. 

Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar, will give you excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar. To makesweet sauce, see No. 346. 

_Obs. _--Jellies from other fruits are made in the same way, and cannotbe preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. 

Those who wish jelly to turn out very stiff, dissolve isinglass in alittle water, strain through a sieve, and add it in the proportion ofhalf an ounce to a pint of juice, and put it in with the sugar. 

The best way is the cheapest. Jellies made with too small a proportionof sugar, require boiling so long; there is much more waste of juice andflavour by evaporation than the due quantity of sugar costs; and theyneither look nor taste half so delicate, as when made with a properproportion of sugar, and moderate boiling. 

_Mock Arrack. _--(No. 480. )

Dissolve two scruples of flowers of benjamin in a quart of good rum, andit will immediately impart to it the inviting fragrance of “Vauxhallnectar. ”

_Calves’-Feet Jelly. _--(No. 481. )

Take four calves’ feet (not those which are sold at tripe-shops, whichhave been boiled till almost all the gelatine is extracted; but buy themat the butcher’s), slit them in two, take away the fat from between theclaws, wash them well in lukewarm water; then put them in a largestew-pan, and cover them with water: when the liquor boils, skim itwell, and let it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be reducedto about two quarts; then strain it through a sieve, and skim off allthe oily substance which is on the surface of the liquor. 

If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the calves’ feet the daybefore you make the jelly; as when the liquor is cold, the oily partbeing at the top, and the other being firm, with pieces of kitchen paperapplied to it, you may remove every particle of the oily substance, without wasting any of the liquor. 

Put the liquor in a stew-pan to melt, with a pound of lump sugar, thepeel of two lemons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of eggs beattogether, and a bottle of sherry or Madeira; whisk the whole togetheruntil it is on the boil; then put it by the side of the stove, and letit simmer a quarter of an hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what isstrained first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as brightand as clear as rock-water; then put the jelly in moulds, to be cold andfirm: if the weather is too warm, it requires some ice. 

_Obs. _--When it is wished to be very stiff, half an ounce of isinglassmay be added when the wine is put in. 

It may be flavoured by the juice of various fruits, and spices, &c. Andcoloured with saffron, cochineal, red beet juice, spinage juice, claret, &c. ; and it is sometimes made with cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, orCuraçoa (No. 474), or essence of punch (No. 479), instead of wine. 

N. B. Ten shank bones of mutton, which may be bought for 2-1/2_d. _, willgive as much jelly as a calf’s foot, which costs a shilling. See pages225, 226 of this work. 

FOOTNOTES:

[228-*] This may be easily accomplished by the aid of that whip andspur, which students of long standing in the school of good living aregenerally so fond of enlivening their palates with, _i. E. _ Cayenne andgarlic. 

Parsley (No. 261), chervil (No. 264), celery (No. 289), cress (No. 397*), tarragon (No. 396), burnet (No. 399), basil (No. 397), eschalot(Nos. 295 and 403), caper (Nos. 274 and 295), fennel (No. 265), liver(Nos. 287 and 288), curry (Nos. 348 and 455), egg, (No. 267, ) mushroom(No. 403), anchovy (Nos. 270 and 433), ragoût (Nos. 421 and 457), shrimp(No. 283), bonne bouche (No. 341, ) superlative (No. 429), and variousflavouring essences. See from No. 396 to 463. 

Any of the above vegetables, &c. May be minced very finely, and sent totable on a little plate, and those who like their flavour may mix themwith melted butter, &c. This is a hint for economists, which will savethem many pounds of butter, &c. See MEM. To No. 256. 

[228-+] A silver saucepan is infinitely the best: you may have one bigenough to melt butter for a moderate family, for four or five pounds. 

[234-*] Oysters which come to the New-York market, are too large andfine to be mangled according to this receipt. They are generally cookedby being fried or stewed. When they are intended to be kept a length oftime, they are pickled in vinegar, with spices. A. 

[236-*] You must have a hen lobster, on account of the live spawn. Somefishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the fish beforethey are boiled. Lift up the tail of the lobster, and see that it hasnot been robbed of its eggs: the goodness of your sauce depends upon itshaving a full share of the spawn in it, to which it owes not merely itsbrilliant red colour, but the finest part of its flavour. 

[238-*] So much depends upon the age of the celery, that we cannot giveany precise time for this, young, fresh-gathered celery will be doneenough in three-quarters of an hour; old will sometimes take twice aslong. 

[240-*] If you wish to have them _very_ mild, cut them in quarters, boilthem for five minutes in plenty of water, and then drain them, and cookthem in fresh water. 

[244-*] Composer and Director of the Music of the Theatre Royal DruryLane, and the Italian Opera. 

[246-*] “By the best accounts I can find, soy is a preparation from theseeds of a species of the _Dolichos_, prepared by a fermentation of thefarina of this seed in a strong lixivium of common salt. ”--CULLEN’S_Mat. Med. _ vol. I. P. 430. 

[250-*] One of “_les bonnes hommes de bouche de France_” orders thefollowing addition for game gravy:--“For a pint, par-roast a partridgeor a pigeon; cut off the meat of it, pound it in a mortar, and put itinto the stew-pan when you _thicken_ the sauce. ” We do not recommendeither soup or sauce to be _thickened_, because it requires (to give itthe same quickness on the palate it had before it was thickened) doublethe quantity of _piquante_ materials; which are thus smuggled down thered lane, without affording any amusement to the mouth, and at the riskof highly offending the stomach. 

[251-*] To this some add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (No. 439), and instead of the salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of essence ofanchovy (No. 433). If the above articles are rubbed together in amortar, and put into a close-stopped bottle, they will keep for sometime. 

[251-+] Thus far the above is from Dr. HUNTER’S “_Culina_, ” who says itis a secret worth knowing: we agree with him, and so tell it here, witha little addition, which we think renders it a still more gratifyingcommunication. 

[252-*] See Basil Wine (No. 397). 

[260-*] These are sold at the glass-shops under the name ofINCORPORATORS: we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these, and thecompany can then take it or leave it, as they like. 

[263-*] If you have no suet, the best substitute for it is aboutone-third part the quantity of butter. 

[267-*] A _baine-marie_. See note to No. 485. 

[275-*] The fragrant _aroma_ of ginger is so extremely volatile, that itevaporates almost as soon as it is powdered; and the fine lemon-peel_goût_ flies off presently. 

[275-+] Tinctures are much finer flavoured than essences. 

[277-*] For the season, &c. When these herbs, &c. Come in perfection, and how to dry them, see No. 461. 

[278-*] We hope this title will not offend those who may quote againstit the old adage, “that good appetite is the best sauce. ”--Allowing thisto be generally true (which is a more candid confession than could beexpected from a cook), we dare say, the majority of our readers willvote with us, that there are many good things (fish especially) thatwould be rather insipid without a little sauce of another kind. 

 “Wherefore did Nature pour her bounties forth, With such a full and unwithdrawing hand, Covering the earth with odours, fruits, and flocks, Thronging the sea with spawn innumerable; But all to please and sate the curious taste?”

 MILTON. 

[280-*] “Several samples which we examined of this fish sauce, have beenfound contaminated with lead. ”--See ACCUM _on Adulteration_, page 328. 

[280-+] They may do very well for common palates; but to imitate thefine flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a well-educated_gourmand_, still remains in the catalogue of the sauce-maker’sdesiderata. 

[280-++] The economist may take the thick remains that wont pass throughthe sieve, and pound it with some flour, and make anchovy paste, orpowder. See Nos. 434 and 435. 

[281-*] Epicure QUIN used to say, “Of all the banns of marriage I everheard, none gave me half such pleasure as the union of delicateANN-CHOVY with good JOHN-DORY. ”

[281-+] “Rust in anchovies, if I’m not mistaken, Is as bad as rust in steel, or rust in bacon. ”

 YOUNG’S _Epicure_, page 14. 

[281-++] If you are not contented with the natural colour, break somelobsters’ eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the complexion ofyour sauce, but improve its flavour. This is the only _rouge_ we canrecommend. See note to No. 284. 

[283-*] “The mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made catchup, aregenerally those which are in a putrefactive state. In a few days afterthose _fungi_ have been gathered, they become the habitations of myriadsof insects. ”--ACCUM _on Culinary Poisons_, 12mo. 1820, p. 350. 

[284-*] The squeezings are the perquisite of the cook, to make sauce forthe second table: do not deprive her of it; it is the most profitable_save-all_ you can give her, and will enable her to make up a goodfamily dinner, with what would otherwise be wasted. After the mushroomshave been squeezed, dry them in the Dutch oven, and make mushroompowder. 

[286-*] “Potatoes, in whatever condition, whether spoiled by frost, germination, &c. , provided they are raw, constantly afford starch, differing only in quality, the round gray ones the most; a poundproducing about two ounces. ”--PARMENTIER _on Nutritive Vegetables_, 8vo. P. 31. 

“100lb. Of potatoes yield 10lb. Of starch. ”--S. GRAY’S _Supplement tothe Pharmacopœia_, 8vo. 1821, p. 198. 

[288-*] If you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, insteadof allspice, put in mace and cloves. The above is very similar to the_powder-fort_ used in King Richard the Second’s kitchen, A. D. 1390. See“_Pegge Forme of Cury_” p. Xxx. 

[288-+] The back part of these ovens is so much hotter than that whichis next the fire, that to dry things equally, their situation must befrequently changed, or those at the back of the oven will be done toomuch, before those in the front are done enough. 

[291-*] This is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale. If youbuy them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them from dirt anddust by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between yourhands over a hair-sieve; put them into the sieve, and shake them well, and the dust will go through. 

[291-+] The common custom is to put them into paper bags, and lay themon a shelf in the kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c. : thus they soon lose their flavour. 

[291-++] A delicious herb, that deserves to be better known. 

[292-*] If the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces, asLYNE’S graduated measures are, it will save trouble in compounding. 

[294-*] “BORRAGE is one of the four _cordial_ flowers;” it comforts theheart, cheers melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits, says SALMON, in the 45th page of his “_Household Companion_” London, 1710. AndEVELYN, in page 13 of his _Acetaria_, says, “The sprigs in _wine_ are ofknown virtue to revive the hypochondriac, and cheer the hardstudent. ”--Combined with the ingredients in the above receipt, we havefrequently observed it produce all the cardiac and exhilarating effectsascribed to it. 

[297-*] Tartaric is only half the price of citric acid; but it is veryinferior in flavour, &c. ; and those who prepare this syrup for homeconsumption, will always use the citric. 

[298-*] The native blackberry of this country makes a very fine jelly, and is medicinal in bowel complaints of children. A. 

MADE DISHES, &C. 

_Receipts for economical_ Made Dishes, _ written for the_ Cook’s Oracle, _by an accomplished_ English Lady. --(No. 483. )

These experiments have arisen from my aversion to cold meat, and mypreference for what are termed French dishes; with which, by a certainmanagement, I think I can furnish my table at far less expense than isgenerally incurred in getting up a plain dinner. 

Gravy or soup meats I never buy; and yet am seldom without a goodprovision of what is technically denominated stock. 

When, as it frequently happens, we have ham dressed; if the joint beabove the weight of seven pounds, I have it cut in half, and prepared inthe following manner: first, ensure that it has been properly soaked, scraped, and cleaned to a nicety; then put it into an earthen vessel, asnear its own size as possible, with just as much water as will cover it;to which add four onions, a clove of garlic, half a dozen eschalots, abay-leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, a few peppercornsand allspice: this should be well closed, and kept simmering about threehours. It is then served with raspings or with glazing, the rind havingfirst been taken off neatly. The liquor is strained, and kept tillpoultry of any sort, or meat, is boiled; when the liquor in which theyhave been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down fast tillreduced to about three pints; when cold, it will be a highly flavoured, well-coloured jelly, [300-*] and ready for sauce for all kinds of ragoûtsand hashes, &c. &c. 

A fillet of veal I divide into three parts; the meat before it isskewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is natural, andwill pull asunder as you would quarter an orange; the largest pieceshould be stuffed with No. 374 or No. 375, and rolled up, compactlyskewered, &c. , and makes a very pretty small fillet: the square flatpiece will either cut into cutlets (No. 90, or No. 521), or slice for apie; and the thick piece must be well larded and dressed as africandeau; which I do in the following-manner: put the larded veal intoa stew-pan just big enough to contain it, with as much water as willcover it; when it has simmered till delicately white, and so tender asto be cut with a spoon, it must be taken out of the water and set apart;and it will be ready to serve up either with sorrel, tomata, mushrooms(No. 305, or No. 439), or some of the above-mentioned stock, thefricandeau being previously coloured with glazing; if with mushrooms, they should be first parboiled in salt and vinegar, and water, whichgives them flavour, and keeps them of a good colour. 

The sirloin of beef I likewise divide into three parts; I first have itnicely boned. 

The under part, or fillet, as the French call it, will dress (when cutinto slices) excellently, either as plain steaks (No. 94), curry (No. 197), or it may be larded whole, and gently stewed in two quarts ofwater (a bay-leaf, two onions, their skins roasted brown, four cloves, allspice, &c. &c. ) till tender, when it should be taken out, drainedquite dry, and put away; it is then ready to be used at any time in thefollowing manner: season and dredge it well, then put it into a stewpanin which a piece of butter has been previously fried to a fine froth;when the meat is sufficiently brown, take it out, and throw into the panhalf a dozen middle-sized onions, to do a fine gold colour; thataccomplished, (during which the dredger should be in constant use, ) addhalf a pint of stock, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar (No. 396), and let the onions stew gently till nearly tender: the beef should thenbe returned to the stew-pan, and the whole suffered to simmer till themeat is warm through: care must be taken that the onions do not break, and they should be served round the beef with as much sauce as will lookgraceful in the dish. The fillet is likewise very good without the friedonions; in that case you should chop and mix up together an eschalot, some parsley, a few capers, and the yelk of a hard egg, and strew themlightly over the surface of the beef. 

The fat end of the sirloin and bones should be put to simmer in theliquor in which the fillet was first stewed, and done till the beeflooks loose; it should then be put away into a deep vessel, and the soupstrained over it, which cooling with the fat upon the top (therebyexcluding the air), will keep as long as may be required: when the soupis to be used, the fat must be cleared from it; a carrot, parsnip, ahead of celery, a leek, and three turnips, cleaned and scalded, shouldbe added to it, and the whole suffered to simmer gently till thevegetables are quite done, when they must be strained from the liquor, and the soup served up with large square thick pieces of toasted bread. 

Those who like a plain bouilli warm the beef in the soup, and serve itup with the turnips and carrots which had been strained before from thesoup. A white cabbage quartered is no bad addition to the garnish of thebouilli, or to the flavour of the soup. If it is a dressed bouilli, sliced carrots and button onions should be stewed in thickened stock, and poured over the meat. 

A neck of mutton boned, sprinkled with dried sage, powdered fine, or(No. 378) seasoned, rolled, and roasted, is very good. The bones andscrag make excellent gravy stewed down, and if done very gently, themeat is not bad eating. The same herbs should be put to it as to otherstocks, with the addition of a carrot; this will make very good muttonbroth. In short, wherever there are bones or trimmings to be got out ofany meat that is dressed in my kitchen, they are made to contributetowards soup or gravy, or No. 252. 

Instead of roasting a hare, (which at best is but dry food), stew it, ifyoung, plain; if an old one, lard it. The shoulders and legs should betaken off, and the back cut into three pieces; these, with a bay-leaf, half a dozen eschalots, one onion pierced with four cloves, should belaid with as much good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-fourhours, in a deep dish. In the mean time, the head, neck, ribs, liver, heart, &c. &c. Should be browned in frothed butter well seasoned; addhalf a pound of lean bacon, cut into small pieces, a large bunch ofherbs, a carrot, and a few allspice; simmer these in a quart of watertill it be reduced to about half the quantity, when it should bestrained, and those parts of the hare which have been infused in thevinegar, should (with the whole contents of the dish) be added to it, and stewed till quite done. Those who like onions may brown half adozen, stew them in a part of the gravy, and dish them round the hare. 

When it comes from the table, supposing some to be left, the meat shouldbe taken from the bones, and with a few forcemeat balls, the remains ofthe gravy, about a quarter of a pint of red wine, and a proportionablequantity of water, it will make a very pretty soup; to those who have noobjection to catchup (No. 439, ) a spoonful in the original gravy is animprovement, as indeed it is in every made dish, where the mushroomitself is not at command. 

Every ragoût, in my opinion, should be dressed the day before it iswanted, that any fat which has escaped the skimming spoon, may with easebe taken off when cold. 

CALF’S HEAD. --Take the half of one, with the skin on; put it into alarge stew-pan, with, as much water as will cover it, a knuckle of ham, and the usual accompaniments of onions, herbs, &c. &c. , and let itsimmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone with a spoon; doso, and while still hot, cut it into as large a sized square as thepiece will admit of; the trimmings and half the liquor put by in atureen; to the remaining half add a gill of white wine, and reduce thewhole of that by quick boiling till it is again half consumed, when itshould be poured over the large square piece in an earthen vessel, surrounded with mushrooms, white button onions, small pieces of pickledpork, half an inch in breadth, and one and a half in length, and thetongue in slices, and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up; somebrowned forcemeat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from thetable, the remains should be cut into small pieces, and mixed up withthe trimmings and liquor, which (with a little more wine), properlythickened, will make a very good mock turtle soup for a future occasion. 

_To hash Mutton, &c. _--(No. 484. )

Cut the meat into slices, about the thickness of two shillings, trim offall the sinews, skin, gristle, &c. ; put in nothing but what is to beeaten, lay them on a plate, ready; prepare your sauce to warm it in, asreceipt (No. 360, or No. 451, or No. 486), put in the meat, and let itsimmer gently till it is thoroughly warm: do not let it boil, as thatwill make the meat tough and hard, [303-*] and it will be, as JoanCromwell[303-+] has it, a harsh. 

_Obs. _--Select for your hash those parts of the joint that are leastdone. 

MEM. --Hashing is a mode of cookery by no means suited to delicatestomachs: unless the meat, &c. Be considerably under-done the firsttime, a second dressing must spoil it, for what is done enough the firsttime, must be done too much the second. 

_To warm Hashes, [304-*] Made Dishes, Stews, Ragoûts, Soups, &c. _--(No. 485. )

Put what you have left into a deep hash-dish or tureen; when you wantit, set this in a stew-pan of boiling water: let it stand till thecontents are quite warm. 

_To hash Beef, &c. _--(No. 486. )

Put a pint and a half of broth, or water, with an ounce of No. 252, or alarge table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, into a stew-pan with the gravyyou have saved that was left from the beef, and put in a quarter ounceof onion sliced very fine, and boil it about ten minutes; put a largetable-spoonful of flour into a basin, just wet it with a little water, mix it well together, and then stir it into the broth, and give it aboil for five or ten minutes; rub it through a sieve, and it is ready toreceive the beef, &c. ; let it stand by the side of the fire till themeat is warm. 

N. B. A tea-spoonful of parsley chopped as fine as possible and put infive minutes before it is served up, is a great addition; others likehalf a wine-glass of port wine, and a dessert-spoonful of currant jelly. 

See also No. 360, which will show you every variety of manner of makingand flavouring the most highly finished hash sauce, and Nos. 484, 485, and 506. 

_Cold Meat broiled, with Poached Eggs. _--(No. 487. )

The inside of a sirloin of beef is best for this dish, or a leg ofmutton. Cut the slices of even and equal thickness, and broil and brownthem carefully and slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a Dutch oven;give those slices most fire that are least done; lay them in a dishbefore the fire to keep hot, while you poach the eggs, as directed inNo. 546, and mashed potatoes (No. 106). 

_Obs. _--This makes a savoury luncheon or supper, but is more relishingthan nourishing, unless the meat was under-done the first time it wasdressed. 

No. 307 for sauce, to which some add a few drops of eschalot wine orvinegar. See No. 402, or No. 439, or No. 359, warmed; or Grill Sauce(No. 355. )

MRS. PHILLIPS’S _Irish Stew. _--(No. 488. )

Take five thick mutton chops, or two pounds off the neck or loin; twopounds of potatoes; peel them, and cut them in halves; six onions, orhalf a pound of onions; peel and slice them also: first put a layer ofpotatoes at the bottom of your stew-pan, then a couple of chops and someof the onions; then again potatoes, and so on, till the pan is quitefull; a small spoonful of white pepper, and about one and a half ofsalt, and three gills of broth or gravy, and two tea-spoonfuls ofmushroom catchup; cover all very close in, so as to prevent the steamfrom getting out, and let them stew for an hour and a half on a veryslow fire. A small slice of ham is a great addition to this dish. Thecook will be the best judge when it is done, as a great deal depends onthe fire you have. 

N. B. Great care must be taken not to let it burn, and that it does notdo too fast. 

_To make an Irish Stew, or Hunter’s Pie. _

Take part of a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, season it well, put itinto a stew-pan, let it brase for half an hour, take two dozen ofpotatoes, boil them, mash them, and season them, butter your mould, andline it with the potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole in the top, and add some good gravy toit. 

N. B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison, of the Leinsterhotel, Dublin. 

_A good Scotch Haggis. _--(No. 488*. )

Make the haggis-bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught; boil the liververy well, so as it will grate; dry the meal before the fire; mince thedraught and a pretty large piece of beef very small; grate about half ofthe liver; mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all thesematerials very well together, with a handful or two of the dried meal;spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixedspices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, andsome of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin (_i. E. _ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into thebag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; but be sure to put outall the wind before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag isthin, you may put it in a cloth. If it is a large haggis, it will takeat least two hours boiling. 

N. B. The above we copied _verbatim_ from Mrs. MACIVER. A celebratedCaledonian professor of the culinary art, who taught, and published abook of cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787. 

_Minced Collops. _

“This is a favourite Scotch dish; few families are without it: it keepswell, and is always ready to make an extra dish. 

“Take beef, and chop and mince it very small; to which add some salt andpepper. Put this, in its raw state, into small jars, and pour on the topsome clarified butter. When intended for use, put the clarified butterinto a frying-pan, and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Adda little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, andin a few minutes it will be fit to serve up. ”--The Hon. JOHN COCHRANE’S_Seaman’s Guide_, 8vo. 1797, page 42. 

_Haricot[306-*] Mutton. _--(No. 489. )

Cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, that has been kept tilltender, into chops of equal thickness, one rib to each (“_les bonshommes de bouche de Paris_” cut two chops to one bone, but it is moreconvenient to help when there is only one; two at a time is too large adose for John Bull), trim off some of the fat, and the lower end of thechine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay them in a stew-pan, with anounce of butter; set it over a smart fire; if your fire is not sharp, the chops will be done before they are coloured: the intention of fryingthem is merely to give them a very light browning. 

While the chops are browning, peel and boil a couple of dozen of youngbutton onions in about three pints of water for about fifteen or twentyminutes, set them by, and pour off the liquor they were boiled in intothe stew-pan with the chops: if that is not sufficient to cover them, add as much boiling water as will; remove the scum as it rises, and becareful they are not stewed too fast or too much; so take out one ofthem with a fish-slice, and try it: when they are tender, which will bein about an hour and a half, then pass the gravy through a sieve into abasin, set it in the open air that it may get cold, you may then easilyand completely skim off the fat; in the mean time set the meat andvegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some boiling water over thebutton onions to warm them. Have about six ounces of carrots, and eightounces of turnips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped into ballsabout as big as a nutmeg; boil the carrots about half an hour, theturnips about a quarter of an hour, and put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them round the dish, the last thing. 

Thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; when itis melted, stir in as much flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy toit by degrees, stir together till it boils; strain it through a finesieve or tamis into a stew-pan, put in the carrots and turnips to getwarm, and let it simmer gently while you dish up the meat; lay the chopsround a dish; put the vegetables in the middle, and pour the thickenedgravy over. Some put in capers, &c. Minced gherkins, &c. 

_Obs. _--Rump-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, make excellent dishesdressed in the like manner. 

_Mutton-Chops delicately stewed, and good Mutton Broth_, --(No. 490. )

Put the chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to cover them, andan onion: when it is coming to a boil, skim it, cover the pan close, andset it over a very slow fire till the chops are tender: if they havebeen kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of anhour’s very gentle simmering. Send up turnips with them (No. 130); theymay be boiled with the chops; skim well, and then send all up in a deepdish, with the broth they were stewed in. 

N. B. The broth will make an economist one, and the meat another, wholesome and comfortable meal. 

_Shoulder of Lamb grilled. _--(No. 491. )

Boil it; score it in checkers about an inch square, rub it over with theyelk of an egg, pepper and salt it, strew it with bread-crumbs and driedparsley, or sweet herbs, or No. 457, or No. 459, and _Carbonado_, _i. E. _ grill, _i. E. _ broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutchoven till it is a nice light brown; send up some gravy with it, or makea sauce for it of flour and water well mixed together with an ounce offresh butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup, and thejuice of half a lemon. See also grill sauce (No. 355). 

N. B. Breasts of lamb are often done in the same way, and with mushroomor mutton sauce (No. 307). 

_Lamb’s Fry. _--(No. 492. )

Fry it plain, or dip it in an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew somefine stale bread-crumbs over it; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 389). For sauce, No. 355, or No. 356. 

_Shin of Beef[308-*] stewed. _--(No. 493. )

Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces, put itinto a stew-pan, and just cover it with cold water; when it simmers, skim it clean; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion, ahead of celery, a dozen berries of black pepper, and the same ofallspice: stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat is tender;this will take from about three hours and a half, to four and a half. 

Take three carrots, peel and cut them into small squares; peel and cutready in small squares a couple of turnips, with a couple of dozen ofsmall young round silver button onions; boil them, till tender; theturnips and onions will be enough in about fifteen minutes; the carrotswill require about twice as long: drain them dry. 

When the beef is quite tender, take it out carefully with a slice, andput it on a dish while you thicken a pint and a half of the gravy: to dothis, mix three table-spoonfuls of flour with a tea-cupful of the beefliquor; to make soup of the rest of it, see No. 238; stir thisthoroughly together till it boils, skim off the fat, strain it through asieve, and put your vegetables in to warm; season with pepper, salt, anda wine-glass of mushroom catchup (No. 439), or port wine, or both, andpour it over the beef. 

Send up Wow-wow sauce (No. 328) in a boat. 

N. B. Or, instead of sending up the beef whole, cut the meat intohandsome pieces fit to help at table, and lay it in the middle of thedish, with the vegetables and sauce (which, if you flavour with No. 455, you may call “beef curry”) round it. A leg of mutton is excellentdressed in the same way; equal to “_le gigot de sept heures_, ” so famousin the French kitchen. 

_Obs. _--This stew has every claim to the attention of the rationalepicure, being one of those in which “frugality, ” “nourishment, ” and“palatableness, ” are most happily combined; and you get half a gallon ofexcellent broth into the bargain. 

We advise the mistress of the table to call it “ragoût beef:” this willensure its being eaten with unanimous applause; the homely appellationof “shin of beef stewed, ” is enough to give your genteel eater thelocked jaw. 

 “Remember, when the judgment’s weak, the prejudice is strong. ”

Our modern epicures resemble the ancient, [309-*] who thought the dearestdish must be the most delicious:

 ----“And think all wisdom lies In being impertinently nice. ”

Thus, they reckon turtle and punch to be “sheventy-foive per shent” moreinviting than mock turtle and good malt liquor: however bad the formermay be, and however good the latter, we wish these folks could be madeto understand, that the soup for each, and all the accompaniments, areprecisely the same: there is this only difference, the former iscommonly made with a “starved turtle” (see Notes at the foot of page220), the latter with a “fatted calf. ” See Nos. 247, 343, and 343*. 

The scarcity of tolerably good cooks ceases to be surprising, when wereflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those whoassume the character of scientific gourmands, [309-+] so extremelyignorant of “the affairs of the mouth, ” they seem hardly to “know asheep’s head from a carrot;” and their real pretensions to be profoundpalaticians, are as moderate as the wine-merchant’s customer, whosesagacity in the selection of liquors was only so exquisite, that he knewthat Port wine was black, and that if he drank enough of it, it wouldmake him drunk. 

_Brisket of Beef stewed. _--(No. 494. )

This is prepared in exactly the same way as “soup and bouilli. ” See Nos. 5, 238, or 493. 

_Haricot of Beef. _--(No. 495. )

A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same sauce ofroots, &c. , as we have directed for haricot of mutton (No. 489), is amost excellent dish, of very moderate expense. 

_Savoury Salt Beef baked. _--(No. 496. )

The tongue side of a round of beef is the best bit for this purpose: ifit weighs fifteen pounds, let it hang two or three days; then take threeounces of saltpetre, one ounce of coarse sugar, a quarter of an ounceof black pepper, and the same of allspice (some add a quarter of anounce of ginger, or No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury herbs(No. 459), and three quarters of a pound of common salt; incorporatethese ingredients by pounding them together in a mortar; then take thebone out, and rub the meat well with the above mixture, turning it andrubbing it every day for a fortnight. 

When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; cover themeat with about three pounds of mutton suet[310-*] shredded ratherthick, and an onion or two minced small; cover the whole with a flourcrust to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in amoderate-heated oven for about six hours: (or, just cover it with water, and let it stew very gently for about five hours, and when you send itto table, cover the top of it with finely chopped parsley. ) If the beefweighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients. 

The gravy you will find a strong _consommé_, excellent for sauce orsoup; or making soy, or browning, see No. 322, and being impregnatedwith salt, will keep several days. 

This joint should not be cut till it is cold: and then, with a sharpknife, to prevent waste, and keep it even and comely to the eye. 

_Obs. _--This is a most excellent way of preparing and dressing beef (No. 503), and a savoury dish for sandwiches, &c. In moderate weather it willkeep good for a fortnight after it is dressed: it is one of the mosteconomical and elegant articles of ready-dressed keeping provisions;deserving the particular attention of those families who frequently haveaccidental customers dropping in at luncheon or supper. 

_Curries. _--(No. 497; see also No. 249. )

Cut fowls or rabbits into joints, and wash them clean: put two ounces ofbutter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put in the meat, and twomiddling-sized onions sliced, let them be over a smart fire till theyare of a light brown, then put in half a pint of broth; let it simmertwenty minutes. 

Put in a basin one or two table-spoonfuls of curry powder (No. 455), atea-spoonful of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it smooth with alittle cold water, put it into the stew-pan, and shake it well abouttill it boils: let it simmer twenty minutes longer; then take out themeat, and rub the sauce through a tamis or sieve: add to it two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk; give it a boil up; then pour it into a dish, lay the meat over it: send up the rice in a separate dish. 

_Obs. _--Curry is made also with sweetbreads, breast of veal, vealcutlets, lamb, mutton or pork chops, lobster, turbot, soles, eels, oysters, &c. : prepared as above, or enveloped in No. 348. 

_Obs. _--This is a very savoury and economical dish, and a valuablevariety at a moderate table. See Wow-wow sauce (No. 328). 

_Stewed Rump-Steaks. _--(No. 500. )

The steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling: let them be allthe same thickness, or some will be done too little, and others toomuch. 

Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, with two onions; when the butteris melted, lay in the rump-steaks, let them stand over a slow fire forfive minutes, then turn them and let the other side of them fry for fiveminutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of button onions; they willtake from half an hour to an hour; put the liquor they were boiled in tothe steaks; if there is not enough of it to cover them, add broth orboiling water, to make up enough for that purpose, with a dozen corns ofblack pepper, and a little salt, and let them simmer very gently forabout an hour and a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor(about a pint and a half) as you think will make the sauce. 

Put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in asmuch flour as will make it into a stiff paste; some add thereto atable-spoonful of claret, or Port wine, the same of mushroom catchup(No. 439), half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonfulof ground black pepper: add the liquor by degrees; let it boil up forfifteen minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the steaks with theonions round the dish, and pour the gravy over. 

Veal-cutlets or mutton-chops may be done the same way, or as veal-olives(No. 518). 

This is generally a second-course dish, and is usually made too rich, and only fit to re-excite an appetite already satiated. Our endeavour isto combine agreeable savouriness with substantial nourishment; those whowish to enrich our receipt, may easily add mushrooms, wine, anchovy, Cayenne, bay-leaves, &c. 

_Obs. _ Rump-steaks are in best condition from Michaelmas to lady-day. Toensure their being tender, give the butcher three or four days’ noticeof your wish for them. 

_Broiled Rump-Steak with Onion Gravy. _--(No. 501. ) See also No. 299. 

Peel and slice two large onions, put them into a quart stew-pan, withtwo table-spoonfuls of water; cover the stew-pan close, and set it on aslow fire till the water has boiled away, and the onions have got alittle browned; then add half a pint of good broth, [312-*] and boil theonions till they are tender; strain the broth from them, and chop themvery fine, and season it with mushroom catchup, pepper, and salt: putthe onion into it, and let it boil gently for five minutes; pour it intothe dish, and lay over it a broiled rump-steak. If instead of broth youuse good beef gravy, it will be superlative. 

⁂ Stewed cucumber (No. 135) is another agreeable accompaniment torump-steaks. 

_Alamode Beef, or Veal. _--(No. 502. )

In the 180 volumes on Cookery, we patiently pioneered through, beforewe encountered the tremendous labour and expense of proving the receiptsof our predecessors, and set about recording these results of our ownexperiments, we could not find one receipt that approximated to anything like an accurate description of the way in which this excellentdish is actually dressed in the best alamode beef shops; from whence, ofcourse, it was impossible to obtain any information: however, after all, the whole of the secret seems to be the thickening of the gravy of beefthat has been very slowly[313-*] stewed, and flavouring it withbay-leaves and allspice. 

Take about eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod of beef, or ablade-bone, or the sticking-piece, or the like weight of the breast ofveal; cut it into pieces of three or four ounces each; put three or fourounces of beef drippings, and mince a couple of large onions, and putthem into a large deep stew-pan; as soon as it is quite hot, flour themeat, put it into the stew-pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon;when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge it with flour, and keepdoing so till you have stirred in as much as you think will thicken it;then cover it with boiling water (it will take about a gallon), addingit by degrees, and stirring it together; skim it when it boils, and thenput in one drachm of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and twobay-leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a distance overit, and let it stew very slowly for about three hours; when you find themeat sufficiently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is ready fortable. 

It is customary to send up with it a nice salad; see No. 372. 

⁂ To the above many cooks add champignons; but as these are almostalways decayed, and often of deleterious quality, they are better leftout, and indeed the bay-leaves deserve the same prohibition. 

_Obs. _ Here is a savoury and substantial meal, almost as cheap as theegg-broth of the miser, who fed his valet with the water in which hisegg was boiled, or as the “_Potage à la Pierre, à la Soldat_, ”[313-+]mentioned by Giles Rose, in the 4th page of his dedication of the“perfect school of instruction for the officers of the mouth, ” 18mo. London, 1682. “Two soldiers were minded to have a soup; the first ofthem coming into a house, and asking for all things necessary for themaking of one, was as soon told that he could have none of those thingsthere, whereupon he went away; the other, coming in with a stone in hisknapsack, asked only for a pot to boil his stone in, that he might makea dish of broth of it for his supper, which was quickly granted him;when the stone had boiled a little while, he asked for a small piece ofmeat or bacon, and a few herbs and roots, &c. Just merely to give it abit of a flavour; till, by little and little, he got all thingsrequisite, and so made an excellent pottage of his stone. ” See _Obs. _ toNo. 493. 

 _s. _ _d. _ Onions, pepper, allspice, and bay-leaves 0 3 11 pounds of beef 3 8 ------- Made eight quarts 3 11

_i. E. _ sixpence per quart. 

_To pot Beef, Veal, Game, or Poultry, &c. _--(No. 503. )

Take three pounds of lean gravy beef, rub it well with an ounce ofsaltpetre, and then a handful of common salt; let it lie in salt for acouple of days, rubbing it well each day; then put it into an earthenpan or stone jar that will just hold it; cover it with the skin and fatthat you cut off, and pour in half a pint of water; cover it close withpaste, and set it in a very slow oven for about four hours; or prepareit as directed in No. 496. 

When it comes from the oven, drain the gravy from it into a basin; pickout the gristles and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it with a littleof the gravy you poured from the meat, which is a very strong consommé(but rather salt), and it will make excellent pease soup, or browning(see No. 322); pound the meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar withsome fresh butter, [314-*] till it is a fine paste (to make potted meatsmooth there is nothing equal to plenty of elbow-grease); seasoning it(by degrees, as you are beating it, ) with a little black pepper andallspice, or cloves pounded, or mace, or grated nutmeg. 

Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, and cover it aquarter of an inch thick with clarified butter; to prepare which, seereceipt No. 259, and if you wish to preserve it a long time, over thattie a bladder. Keep it in a dry place. 

_Obs. _ You may mince a little ham or bacon, or an anchovy, sweet orsavoury herbs, or an eschalot, and a little tarragon, chervil, orburnet, &c. , and pound them with the meat, with a glass of wine, or somemustard, or forcemeat (No. 376, or Nos. 378 and 399*, &c. ); if you wishto have it devilish savoury, add ragoût powder (No. 457), curry powder(No. 455), or zest (No. 255), and moisten it with mushroom catchup (No. 439), or essence of anchovy (No. 433), or tincture of allspice (No. 413), or essence of turtle (No. 343*), or, (No. 503*). 

It is a very agreeable and economical way of using the remains of gameor poultry, or a large joint of either roasted or boiled beef, veal, ham, or tongue, &c. To mince it with some of the fat, (or moisten itwith a little butter, or No. 439, &c. ) and beat it in a mortar with theseasoning, &c. , as in the former receipt. 

When either the teeth or stomach are extremely feeble, especial caremust be taken to keep meat till it is tender before it is cooked; orcall in the aid of those excellent helps to bad teeth, the pestle andmortar. And see Nos. 10, 18, 87, 89, 175, 178; from 185 to 250, 502, 542, and especially 503. Or dress in the usual way whatever is bestliked, mince it, put it into a mortar, and pound it with a little brothor melted butter, vegetable, herb, spice, zest (No. 255), &c. Accordingto the taste, &c. Of the eater. The business of the stomach is thus verymaterially facilitated. 

“Flesh in small quantities, bruised to a pulp, may be veryadvantageously used in fevers attended with debility. ”--DARWIN’S_Zoonomia_, vol. Ii. P. 400. 

“Mincing or pounding meat saveth the grinding of the teeth; andtherefore (no doubt) is more nourishing, especially in age, or to themthat have weak teeth; but butter is not proper for weak bodies, andtherefore moisten it in pounding with a little claret wine, and a verylittle cinnamon or nutmeg. ”--Lord BACON; _Natural History_, Century 1. 54. 

_Obs. _--Meat that has been boiled down for gravies, &c. See Nos. 185and 252, (which has heretofore been considered the perquisite of thecat) and is completely drained of all its succulence, beat in a mortarwith salt and a little ground black pepper and allspice, as directed inthe foregoing receipt, and it will make as good potted beef as meat thathas been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, which it mustbe, or it will not keep two days. 

MEM. --Meat that has not been previously salted, will not keep so long asthat which has. 

_Sandwiches_, --(No. 504. )

Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient luncheon or supper, buthave got out of fashion, from the bad manner in which they are commonlymade: to cut the bread neatly with a sharp knife seems to be consideredthe only essential, and the lining is composed of any offal odds andends, that cannot be sent to table in any other form. 

Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from every bit of skin, gristle, &c. And nothing introduced but what you are absolutely certainwill be acceptable to the mouth. 

MATERIALS FOR MAKING SANDWICHES. 

 Cold meat, or poultry. Potted ditto (No. 503). Savoury ditto (No. 496). Potted lobster (No. 178), or shrimp (No. 175). Potted cheese (No. 542). Ditto, or grated tongue. Potted, or grated ham (No. 509). Anchovy (Nos. 434 and 435). German sausage Cold pork ditto (No. 87). Hard eggs, pounded with a little butter and cheese. Grated ham, or beef. Various forcemeats, &c. (No. 373), &c. Curry-powder, zest, mustard, pepper, and salt are added occasionally. 

_Meat Cakes. _--(No. 504*. )

If you have any cold meat, game, or poultry (if under-done, all thebetter), mince it fine, with a little fat bacon or ham, or an anchovy;season it with a little pepper and salt; mix well, and make it intosmall cakes three inches long, half as wide, and half an inch thick: frythese a light brown, and serve them with good gravy, or put it into amould and boil or bake it. 

N. B. Bread-crumbs, hard yelks of eggs, onions, sweet herbs, savouryspices, zest, or curry-powder, or any of the forcemeats. See Nos. 373 to382. 

Fish cakes for maigre days, may be made in like manner. 

_Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef or Mutton and Cabbage. _--(No. 505. )

 “When ’midst the frying pan, in accents savage, The beef, so surly, quarrels with the cabbage. ”

For this, as for a hash, select those parts of the joint that have beenleast done; it is generally made with slices of cold boiled salted-beef, sprinkled with a little pepper, and just lightly browned with a bit ofbutter in a frying-pan: if it is fried too much it will be hard. 

Boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small; take the beefout of the frying-pan, and lay the cabbage in it; sprinkle a littlepepper and salt over it; keep the pan moving over the fire for a fewminutes; lay the cabbage in the middle of a dish, and the meat round it. 

For sauce, see No. 356, or No. 328. 

_Hashed Beef, and roast Beef bones boiled. _--(No. 506. )

To hash beef, see receipt, Nos. 484, 5, 6, and Nos. 360, 484, and 486. 

The best part to hash is the fillet or inside of the sirloin, and thegood housewife will always endeavour to preserve it entire for thispurpose. See _Obs. _ to No. 19, and mock hare, No. 66*. 

Roast beef bones furnish a very relishing luncheon or supper, preparedin the following manner, with poached eggs (No. 546), or fried eggs (No. 545), or mashed potatoes (No. 106), as accompaniments. 

Divide the bones, leaving good pickings of meat on each; score them insquares, pour a little melted butter on them, and sprinkle them withpepper and salt: put them in a dish; set them in a Dutch oven for halfor three quarters of an hour, according to the thickness of the meat;keep turning them till they are quite hot and brown; or broil them onthe gridiron. Brown them, but don’t burn them black. For sauce, Nos. 355, or 356. 

_Ox-Cheek stewed. _--(No. 507. )

Prepare this the day before it is to be eaten; clean it, and put it intosoft water just warm; let it lie three or four hours, then put it intocold water, and let it soak all night; next day wipe it clean, put itinto a stew-pan, and just cover it with water; skim it well when it iscoming to a boil, then put two whole onions, stick two or three clovesinto each, three turnips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced, twobay-leaves, and twenty-four corns of allspice, a head of celery, and abundle of sweet herbs, pepper, and salt; to these, those who are for a“haut goût” may add Cayenne and garlic, in such proportions as thepalate that requires them may desire. 

Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, _i. E. _ about three hours;then take out the cheek, divide it into handsome pieces, fit to help attable; skim, and strain the gravy; melt an ounce and a half of butter ina stew-pan; stir into it as much flour as it will take up; mix with itby degrees a pint and a half of the gravy; add to it a table-spoonful ofbasil, tarragon, or elder vinegar, or the like quantity of mushroom orwalnut catchup, or cavice, or port wine, and give it a boil. 

Serve up in a soup or ragoût-dish; or make it into barley broth, No. 204. 

_Obs. _--This is a very economical, nourishing, and savoury meal. Seeox-cheek soup, No. 239, and calf’s head hashed, No. 520. 

_Ox-Tails stewed. _--(No. 508. )

Divide them into joints; wash them; parboil them; set them on to stew injust water enough to cover them, --and dress them in the same manner aswe have directed in No. 531, Stewed Giblets, for which they are anexcellent substitute. 

N. B. --See Ox-Tail Soup, No. 240. 

_Potted Ham, or Tongue. _--(No. 509. )

Cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled Ham or Tongue, and pound it in amortar with a quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh butter (inthe proportion of about two ounces to a pound), till it is a fine paste(some season it by degrees with a little pounded mace or allspice): putit close down in pots for that purpose, and cover it with ClarifiedButter, No. 259, a quarter of an inch thick; let it stand one night in acool place. Send it up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. See _Obs. _on No. 503. 

_Hashed Veal. _--(No. 511. )

Prepare it as directed in No. 484; and to make sauce to warm Veal, seeNo. 361. 

_Hashed or minced Veal. _--(No. 511*. )

To make a hash[318-*] cut the meat into slices;--to prepare minced veal, mince it as fine as possible (do not chop it); put it into a stew-panwith a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton broth, or make some with thebones and trimmings, as ordered for veal cutlets (see No. 80, or No. 361), a little lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or cream;thicken with butter and flour, and season it with salt, a table-spoonfulof lemon pickle, or Basil wine, No. 397, &c. , or a pinch of currypowder. 

⁂ If you have no cream, beat up the yelks of a couple of eggs with alittle milk: line the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread. 

_Obs. _--Minced veal makes a very pretty dish put into scollop shells, and bread crumbed over, and sprinkled with a little butter, and brownedin a Dutch oven, or a cheese-toaster. 

_To make an excellent Ragoût of Cold Veal. _--(No. 512. )

Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish this excellentragoût with a very little expense or trouble. 

Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter or cleandripping into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour and fry the vealof a light brown: take it out, and if you have no gravy ready, make someas directed in the note to No. 517; or put a pint of boiling water intothe frying-pan, give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it into abasin while you make some thickening in the following manner: put aboutan ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it melts, mix with it asmuch flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frying-pan; let themsimmer together for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorporated); seasonit with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroomcatchup or wine; strain it through a tamis to the meat, and stew verygently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready-boiledbacon, cut it in slices, and put it in to warm with the meat, or No. 526or 527. 

Veal cutlets, see No. 90, &c. 

_Breast of Veal stewed. _--(No. 515. )

A breast of veal stewed till quite tender, and smothered with onionsauce, is an excellent dish; or in the gravy ordered in the note to No. 517. 

_Breast of Veal Ragoût. _--(No. 517. )

Take off the under bone, and cut the breast in half lengthways; divideit into pieces, about four inches long, by two inches wide, _i. E. _ inhandsome pieces, not too large to help at once: put about two ounces ofbutter into a frying-pan, and fry the veal till it is a lightbrown, [320-*] then put it into a stew-pan with veal broth, or as muchboiling water as will cover it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common orlemon-thyme, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of blades ofpounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, a roll of lemon-peel, a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a tea-spoonful of salt; cover itclose, and let it all simmer very gently till the veal is tender, _i. E. _ for about an hour and a half, if it is very thick, two hours; thenstrain off as much (about a quart) of the gravy, as you think you willwant, into a basin; set the stew-pan, with the meat, &c. In it by thefire to keep hot. To thicken the gravy you have taken out, put an ounceand a half of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir inas much flour as it will take; add the gravy by degrees; season it withsalt; let it boil ten minutes; skim it well, and season it with twotable-spoonfuls of white wine, one of mushroom catchup, and same oflemon-juice; give it a boil up, and it is ready: now put the veal into aragoût dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it. _Or_, By keeping the meat whole, you will better preserve the succulence ofit. 

Put the veal into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter and two wholeonions (such as weigh about two ounces each); put it on the fire, andfry it about five minutes; then cover it with boiling water; when itboils, skim it; then put in two small blades of mace, a dozen blades ofallspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it simmergently for an hour and a half; then strain as much of the gravy as youthink you will want into a basin; put the stew-pan by the fire to keephot. To thicken it, put an ounce and a half of butter into a cleanstew-pan: when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take; addthe gravy by degrees; season it with salt, and when it boils it isready. Put the veal on a dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieveover it. 

_Obs. _--Forcemeat balls, see No. 375, &c. ; truffles, morells, mushrooms, and curry powder, &c. Are sometimes added; and rashers of bacon or ham, Nos. 526 and 527, or fried pork sausages, No. 83. 

N. B. These are nice dishes in the pease season. 

_Scotch Collops. _--(No. 517*. )

The veal must be cut the same as for cutlets, in pieces about as big asa crown-piece; flour them well, and fry them of a light brown in freshbutter; lay them in a stew-pan; dredge them over with flour, and thenput in as much boiling water as will well cover the veal; pour this inby degrees, shaking the stew-pan, and set it on the fire; when it comesto a boil, take off the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace, and letit simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour; lay them on a dish, and pour the gravy through a sieve over them. 

N. B. Lemon-juice and peel, wine, catchup, &c. , are sometimes added; addcurry powder, No. 455, and you have curry collops. 

_Veal Olives. _--(No. 518. )

Cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal, half an inch thick, and aslong and square as you can; flat them with a chopper, and rub them overwith an egg that has been beat on a plate; cut some fat bacon as thin aspossible, the same size as the veal; lay it on the veal, and rub it witha little of the egg; make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt, No. 375, and spread it very thin over the bacon; roll up the olives tight, rubthem with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs; put them ona lark-spit, and roast them at a brisk fire: they will take threequarters of an hour. 

Rump-steaks are sometimes dressed this way. 

Mushroom sauce, brown (Nos. 305 or 306), or beef gravy (No. 329). Videchapter on sauces, &c. 

_Cold Calf’s Head hashed. _--(No. 519. )

See _Obs. _ to boiled calf’s head, No. 10. 

_Calf’s Head hashed, or Ragoût. _--(No. 520. ) See No. 247. 

Wash a calf’s head, which, to make this dish in the best style, shouldhave the skin on, and boil it, see No. 10; boil one half all but enough, so that it may be soon quite done when put into the hash to warm, theother quite tender: from this half take out the bones: score itsuperficially; beat up an egg; put it over the head with a paste-brush, and strew over it a little grated bread and lemon-peel, and thyme andparsley, chopped very fine, or in powder, then bread-crumbs, and put itin the Dutch oven to brown. 

Cut the other half-head into handsome slices, and put it into a stew-panwith a quart of gravy (No. 329), or turtle sauce (No. 343), withforcemeat balls (Nos. 376, 380), egg-balls, a wine-glass of white wine, and some catchup, &c. ; put in the meat; let it warm together, and skimoff the fat. 

Peel the tongue, and send it up with the brains round it as a side dish, as directed in No. 10; or beat them up in a basin with a spoonful offlour, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and a fewleaves of very finely-minced sage; rub them well together in a mortar, with pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg; fry them (in little cakes) avery light brown; dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in themiddle; and garnish with crisp, or curled rashers of bacon, fried breadsippets (Nos. 319, 526, and 527), and the brain cakes. 

N. B. It is by far the best way to make a side dish of the tongue andbrains, if you do send up a piece of bacon as a companion for it, orgarnish the tongue and brains with the rashers of bacon and theforcemeat balls, both of which are much better kept dry than whenimmersed in the gravy of the ragoût. 

_Obs. _--In order to make what common cooks, who merely cook for the eye, call a fine, large, handsome dishful, they put in not only the eatableparts, but all the knots of gristle, and lumps of fat, offal, &c. ; andwhen the grand gourmand fancies he is helped as plentifully as he couldwish, he often finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot oflumps of gristle, fat, &c. 

We have seen a very elegant dish of the scalp only, sent to table rolledup; it looks like a sucking pig. 

_Veal Cutlets broiled plain, or full-dressed. _--(No. 521. )

Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, one rib to each;broil them plain, or make some fine bread-crumbs; mince a littleparsley, and a very little eschalot, as small as possible; put it into aclean stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, and fry it for a minute; thenput on a plate the yelks of a couple of eggs; mix the herbs, &c. Withit, and season it with pepper and salt: dip the cutlets into thismixture, and then into the bread; lay them on a gridiron over a clearslow fire, till they are nicely browned on both sides; they will takeabout an hour: send up with them a few slices of ham or bacon fried, ordone in the Dutch oven. See Nos. 526 and 527, and half a pint of No. 343, or No. 356. 

_Knuckle of Veal, to ragoût. _--(No. 522. )

Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them a light brown; put the trimmings into astew-pan, with the bone broke in several places; an onion sliced, a headof celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades of bruised mace: pourin warm water enough to cover them about an inch; cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours; strain it, and thenthicken it with flour and butter; put in a spoonful of catchup, a glassof wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a boil up, and strain into aclean stew-pan; put in the meat, make it hot, and serve up. 

_Obs. _--If celery is not to be had, use a carrot instead or flavour itwith celery-seed, or No. 409. 

_Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice. _--(No. 523. )

As boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very favourite relish with thegenerality, cut off some steaks from it, which you may dress as in theforegoing receipt, or No. 521, and leave the knuckle no larger than willbe eaten the day it is dressed. Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, andput it in a large stew-pan with two quarts of water, an onion, twoblades of mace, and a tea-spoonful of salt: set it on a quick fire; whenit boils, take off all the scum. 

Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice; put it into the stew-panwith the meat, and let it stew very gently for about two hours: put themeat, &c. In a deep dish, and the rice round it. 

Send up bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely minced parsleyand butter, No. 261. 

MR. GAY’S _Receipt to stew a Knuckle of Veal. _--(No. 524. )

 Take a knuckle of veal; You may buy it or steal; In a few pieces cut it, In a stewing-pan put it; Salt, pepper, and mace, Must season this knuckle, Then, what’s joined to a place[323-*] With other herbs muckle; That which kill’d King Will, [324-*] And what never stands still[324-+] Some sprigs of that bed, [324-++] Where children are bred. Which much you will mend, if Both spinach and endive, And lettuce and beet, With marigold meet. Put no water at all, For it maketh things small, Which lest it should happen, A close cover clap on; Put this pot of Wood’s metal[324-§] In a boiling hot kettle; And there let it be, (Mark the doctrine I teach, ) About, let me see, Thrice as long as you preach. [324-||] So skimming the fat off, Say grace with your hat off, O! then with what rapture Will it fill Dean and Chapter!

_Slices of Ham or Bacon. _--(No. 526. )

Ham, or bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron over a clear fire, or toasted with a fork: take care to slice it of the same thickness inevery part. 

If you wish it curled, cut it in slices about two inches long (iflonger, the outside will be done too much before the inside is doneenough); roll it up, and put a little wooden skewer through it: put itin a cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes, turning itas it gets crisp. 

This is considered the handsomest way of dressing bacon; but we like itbest uncurled, because it is crisper, and more equally done. 

_Obs. _--Slices of ham or bacon should not be more than half a quarter ofan inch thick, and will eat much more mellow if soaked in hot water fora quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before they are broiled, &c. 

_Relishing Rashers of Bacon. _--(No. 527. )

If you have any cold bacon, you may make a very nice dish of it bycutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; grate somecrust of bread, as directed for ham (see No. 14), and powder them wellwith it on both sides; lay the rashers in a cheese-toaster, they will bebrowned on one side in about three minutes, turn them and do the other. 

_Obs. _--These are a delicious accompaniment to poached or fried Eggs:the bacon having been boiled[325-*] first, is tender and mellow. Theyare an excellent garnish round veal cutlets, or sweet-breads, orcalf’s-head hash, or green pease, or beans, &c. 

_Hashed Venison. _--(No. 528. )

If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable to any towarm it up in: if not, take some of the mutton gravy (No. 347), or thebones and trimmings of the joint (after you have cut off all thehandsome slices you can to make the hash); put these into some water, and stew them gently for an hour; then put some butter into a stew-pan;when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter, and stirit well together; add to it by degrees the gravy you have been making ofthe trimmings, and some red currant jelly; give it a boil up; skim it;strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the venison: putit in, and let it just get warm: if you let it boil, it will make themeat hard. 

_Hashed Hare. _--(No. 529. )

Cut up the hare into pieces fit to help at table, and divide the jointsof the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready. 

Put the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a pint of water(there should be a pint of liquor), and a table-spoonful of currantjelly, into a clean stew-pan, and let it boil gently for a quarter of anhour: then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and pour it back intothe stew-pan; now flour the hare, put it into the gravy, and let itsimmer very gently till the hare is warm (about twenty minutes); cut thestuffing into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about fiveminutes before you serve it; divide the head, and lay one half on eachside the dish. 

For hare soup, see No. 241, mock hare, No. 66. *

_Jugged Hare. _--(No. 529*. )

Wash it very nicely; cut it up into pieces proper to help at table, andput them into a jugging-pot, or into a stone jar, [325-+] justsufficiently large to hold it well; put in some sweet herbs, a roll ortwo of rind of a lemon, or a Seville orange, and a fine large onion withfive cloves stuck in it, --and if you wish to preserve the flavour of thehare, a quarter of a pint of water; if you are for a _ragoût_, a quarterof a pint of claret, or port wine, and the juice of a Seville orange, orlemon: tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no steam canescape; put a little hay in the bottom of the saucepan, in which placethe jar, and pour in water till it reaches within four inches of the topof the jar; let the water boil for about three hours, according to theage and size of the hare (take care it is not over-done, which is thegeneral fault in all made dishes, especially this), keeping it boilingall the time, and fill up the pot as it boils away. When quite tender, strain off the gravy clear from fat; thicken it with flour, and give ita boil up: lay the hare in a soup-dish, and pour the gravy to it. 

_Obs. _--You may make a pudding the same as for roast hare (see No. 397), and boil it in a cloth; and when you dish up your hare, cut it inslices, or make forcemeat balls of it, for garnish. 

For sauce, No. 346. _Or_, A much easier and quicker, and more certain way of proceeding, is thefollowing:

Prepare the hare the same as for jugging; put it into a stew-pan with afew sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the same of allspice and blackpepper, two large onions, and a roll of lemon-peel: cover it with water;when it boils, skim it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender(about two hours); then take it up with a slice, and set it by the fireto keep hot while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of butter, and some flour; rub together; put in the gravy; stir it well, and let itboil about ten minutes; strain it through a sieve over the hare, and itis ready. 

_Dressed Ducks, or Geese hashed. _--(No. 530. )

Cut an onion into small dice; put it into a stew-pan with a bit ofbutter; fry it, but do not let it get any colour; put as much boilingwater into the stew-pan as will make sauce for the hash; thicken it witha little flour; cut up the duck, and put it into the sauce to warm; donot let it boil; season it with pepper and salt, and catchup. 

N. B. The legs of geese, &c. Broiled, and laid on a bed of apple sauce, are sent up for luncheon or supper. _Or_, Divide the duck into joints; lay it by ready; put the trimmings andstuffing into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water; letit boil half an hour, and then rub it through a sieve; put half an ounceof butter into a stew-pan; as it melts, mix a table-spoonful of flourwith it; stir it over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with itby degrees; as soon as it boils, take off the scum, and strain through asieve into a stew-pan; put in the duck, and let it stew very gently forten or fifteen minutes, if the duck is rather under-roasted: if there isany fat, skim it off: line the dish you serve it up in with sippets ofbread either fried or toasted. 

_Ragoûts of Poultry, Game, Pigeons, Rabbits, &c. _--(No. 530*. )

Half roast it, then stew it whole, or divide it into joints and piecesproper to help at table, and put it into a stew-pan, with a pint and ahalf of broth, or as much water, with any trimmings or parings of meatyou have, one large onion with cloves stuck in it, twelve berries ofallspice, the same of black pepper, and a roll of lemon-peel; when itboils, skim it very clean; let it simmer very gently for about an hourand a quarter, if a duck or fowl--longer if a larger bird; then strainoff the liquor, and leave the ducks by the fire to keep hot; skim thefat off; put into a clean stew-pan two ounces of butter; when it is hotstir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste; add the liquorby degrees; let it boil up; put in a glass of port wine, and a littlelemon-juice, and simmer it ten minutes; put the ducks, &c. Into thedish, and strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them. 

Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried bread, No. 319. 

_Obs. _--If the poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only till justnicely tender, this will be an acceptable _bonne bouche_ to those whoare fond of made dishes. The flavour may be varied by adding catchup, curry powder, or any of the flavoured vinegars. 

This is an easily prepared side dish, especially when you have a largedinner to dress; and coming to table ready carved saves a deal of timeand trouble; it is therefore an excellent way of serving poultry, &c. For a large party. _Or_, Roast or boil the poultry in the usual way; then cut it up, and pourover it a sufficient quantity of No. 305, or No. 329, or No. 364, or No. 2. 

_Stewed Giblets. _--(No. 531. )

Clean two sets of giblets (see receipt for giblet soup, No. 244); putthem into a saucepan, just cover them with cold water, and set them onthe fire; when they boil, take off the scum, and put in an onion, threecloves, or two blades of mace, a few berries of black pepper, the sameof allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of salt; cover the stew-pan close, and let it simmer very gently till the giblets are quite tender: thiswill take from one hour and a half to two and a half, according to theage of the giblets; the pinions will be done first, and must then betaken out, and put in again to warm when the gizzards are done: watchthem that they do not get too much done: take them out and thicken thesauce with flour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or till there isjust enough to eat with the giblets, and then strain it through a tamisinto a clean stew-pan; cut the giblets into mouthfuls; put them into thesauce with the juice of half a lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroomcatchup; pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of bread at thebottom. 

_Obs. _--Ox-tails prepared in the same way are excellent eating. 

_Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit. _--(No. 533. )

Cut them into joints, put the trimmings into a stew-pan with a quart ofthe broth they were boiled in, and a large onion cut in four; let itboil half an hour; strain it through a sieve: then put twotable-spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it well by degrees with thehot broth; set it on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a finesieve: wash out the stew-pan, lay the poultry in it, and pour the gravyon it (through a sieve); set it by the side of the fire to simmer verygently (it must not boil) for fifteen minutes; five minutes before youserve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and put it in to warm, thentake it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish, and put the poultryin the middle; carefully skim the fat off the gravy, then shake it roundwell in the stew-pan, and pour it to the hash. 

N. B. You may garnish the dish with bread sippets lightly toasted. 

_Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken. _--(No. 534. )

Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets from thebreasts, and put them into a stew-pan with the rest of the white meatand wings, side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint of broth, a largeblade of mace pounded, an eschalot minced fine, the juice of half alemon, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne;thicken it with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or threeminutes, till the meat is warm. In the mean time score the legs andrump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and laythem on, or round your pulled chicken. 

_Obs. _--Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yelks of as manyeggs, will be a great improvement to it. 

_To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or Rabbit. _--(No. 535. )

Cut them in quarters, beat up an egg or two (according to the quantityyou dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt, someparsley minced fine, and a few crumbs of bread; mix these well together, and cover the fowl, &c. With this batter; broil them, or put them in aDutch oven, or have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fry thema light brown colour; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put alarge spoonful of catchup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and pour thesauce round it. You may garnish with slices of lemon and toasted bread. See No. 355. 

_Devil. _--(No. 538. )

The gizzard and rump, or legs, &c. Of a dressed turkey, capon, or goose, or mutton or veal kidney, scored, peppered, salted, and broiled, sent upfor a relish, being made very hot, has obtained the name of a “devil. ”

_Obs. _--This is sometimes surrounded with No. 356, or a sauce of thickmelted butter or gravy, flavoured with catchup (No. 439), essence ofanchovy, or No. 434, eschalot wine (No. 402), curry stuff. (No. 455, &c. ) See turtle sauce (No. 343), or grill sauce (No. 355), which, as thepalates of the present day are adjusted, will perhaps please _grandsgourmands_ as well as “_véritable sauce d’Enfer_. ”--Vide _School for theOfficers of the Mouth_, p. 368, 18mo. London, 1682. 

 “Every man must have experienced, that when he has got deep into his third bottle, his palate acquires a degree of torpidity, and his stomach is seized with a certain craving, which seem to demand a stimulant to the powers of both. The provocatives used on such occasions, an ungrateful world has combined to term devils. 

 “The _diables au feu d’enfer_, or dry devils, are usually composed of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry, fish-bones, or biscuits; and, if pungency alone can justify their appellation, never was title better deserved, for they are usually prepared without any other intention than to make them ‘hot as their native element, ’ and any one who can swallow them without tears in his eyes, need be under no apprehension of the pains of futurity. It is true, they answer the purpose of exciting thirst; but they excoriate the palate, vitiate its nicer powers of discrimination, and pall the relish for the high flavour of good wine: in short, no man should venture upon them whose throat is not paved with mosaic, unless they be seasoned by a cook who can poise the pepper-box with as even a hand as a judge should the scales of justice. 

 “It would be an insult to the understanding of our readers, to suppose them ignorant of the usual mode of treating common devils; but we shall make no apology for giving the most minute instructions for the preparation of a gentler stimulant, which, besides, possesses this advantage--that it may be all done at the table, either by yourself, or at least under your own immediate inspection. 

 “Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper, and curry powder, with double the quantity of powder of truffles: dissect, _secundum artem_, a brace of woodcocks rather under-roasted, split the heads, subdivide the wings, &c. &c. And powder the whole gently over with the mixture; crush the trail and brains along with the yelk of a hard-boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel of half a lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients be brought to the consistence of a fine paste: then add a table-spoonful of catchup, a full wine-glass of Madeira, and the juice of two Seville oranges: throw this sauce, along with the birds, into a silver stew-dish, to be heated with spirits of wine: cover close up, light the lamp, and keep gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until the flesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid. When you have reason to suppose it is completely saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad oil, stir all once more well together, ‘put out the light, and then!’--serve it round instantly; for it is scarcely necessary to say, that a devil should not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot. 

 “There is, however, one precaution to be used in eating it, to which we most earnestly recommend the most particular attention; and for want of which, more than one accident has occurred. It is not, as some people might suppose, to avoid eating too much of it (for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent); but it is this: in order to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some portion of it with your fingers; and, as they thereby become impregnated with its flavour, if you afterward chance to let them touch your tongue, you will infallibly lick them to the bone, if you do not swallow them entire. ”--See page 124, &c. Of the entertaining “_Essays on Good Living_. ”

_Crusts of Bread for Cheese, &c. _--(No. 538. )

It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at taverns a loafentirely spoiled, by furious epicures paring off the crust to eat withcheese: to supply this, and to eat with soups, &c. Pull lightly intosmall pieces the crumb of a new loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in abaking dish; set it in a tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, andnicely browned, or do them in a Dutch oven. 

_Toast and Cheese. _--(No. 539. )

 “Happy the man that has each fortune tried, To whom she much has giv’n, and much denied; With abstinence all delicates he sees, And can regale himself on toast and cheese. ”

 KING’S _Art of Cookery_. 

Cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick; pare off the crust, andtoast it very slightly on one side so as just to brown it, withoutmaking it hard or burning it. 

Cut a slice of cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or doubleGloster, is better than poor, thin, single Gloster) a quarter of aninch thick, not so big as the bread by half an inch on each side: pareoff the rind, cut out all the specks and rotten parts, [331-*] and lay iton the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; carefully watch it that itdoes not burn, and stir it with a spoon to prevent a pellicle forming onthe surface. Have ready good mustard, pepper and salt. 

If you observe the directions here given, the cheese will eat mellow, and will be uniformly done, and the bread crisp and soft, and will welldeserve its ancient appellation of a “rare bit. ”

_Obs. _--One would think nothing could be easier than to prepare a Welshrabbit; yet, not only in private families, but at taverns, it is veryseldom sent to table in perfection. We have attempted to account forthis in the last paragraph of _Obs. _ to No. 493. 

_Toasted Cheese_, No. 2. --(No. 540. )

We have nothing to add to the directions given for toasting the cheesein the last receipt, except that in sending it up, it will save muchtime in portioning it out at table, if you have half a dozen smallsilver or tin pans to fit into the cheese-toaster, and do the cheese inthese: each person may then be helped to a separate pan, and it willkeep the cheese much hotter than the usual way of eating it on a coldplate. 

MEM. Send up with it as many cobblers[331-+] as you have pans of cheese. 

_Obs. _--Ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over comfort than inthe serving out of this dish; which, to be presented to the palate inperfection, it is imperatively indispensable that it be introduced tothe mouth as soon as it appears on the table. 

_Buttered Toast and Cheese. _--(No. 541. )

Prepare a round of toast; butter it; grate over it good Cheshire cheeseabout half the thickness of the toast, and give it a brown. 

_Pounded Cheese. _--(No. 542. )

Cut a pound of good mellow Chedder, Cheshire, or North Wiltshire cheeseinto thin bits; add to it two, and if the cheese is dry, three ouncesof fresh butter; pound, and rub them well together in a mortar till itis quite smooth. 

_Obs. _--When cheese is dry, and for those whose digestion is feeble, this is the best way of eating it; and spread on bread, it makes anexcellent luncheon or supper. 

N. B. The _piquance_ of this is sometimes increased by pounding with itcurry powder (No. 455), ground spice, black pepper, cayenne, and alittle made mustard; and some moisten it with a glass of sherry. Ifpressed down hard in a jar, and covered with clarified butter, it willkeep for several days in cool weather. 

_Macaroni. _--(No. 543. ) _See Macaroni Pudding for the Boiling of it. _

The usual mode of dressing it in this country is by adding a whitesauce, and parmesan or Cheshire cheese, and burning it; but this makes adish which is proverbially unwholesome: its bad qualities arise from theoiled and burnt cheese, and the half-dressed flour and butter put intothe white sauce. 

Macaroni plain boiled, and some rich stock or portable soup added to itquite hot, will be found a delicious dish and very wholesome. Or, boilmacaroni as directed in the receipt for the pudding, and serve it quitehot in a deep tureen, and let each guest add grated parmesan and coldbutter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is excellent; this is themost common Italian mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream, sugar, andcinnamon, or a little varicelli added to the cream, makes a very nicesweet dish. 

_English way of dressing Macaroni. _

Put a quarter of a pound of riband macaroni into a stew-pan, with a pintof boiling milk, or broth, or water; let it boil gently till it istender, this will take about a quarter of an hour; then put in an ounceof grated cheese, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it well together, andput it on a dish, and stew over it two ounces of grated Parmesan orCheshire cheese, and give it a light brown in a Dutch oven. Or put allthe cheese into the macaroni, and put bread-crumbs over the top. 

Macaroni is very good put into a thick sauce with some shreds of dressedham, or in a curry sauce. Riband macaroni is best for these dishes, andshould not be done so much. 

_Macaroni Pudding. _

One of the most excellent preparations of macaroni is the Timbale deMacaroni. Simmer half a pound of macaroni in plenty of water, and atable-spoonful of salt, till it is tender; but take care not to have ittoo soft; though tender, it should be firm, and the form entirelypreserved, and no part beginning to melt (this caution will serve forthe preparation of all macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat up fiveyelks and the white of two eggs; take half a pint of the best cream, andthe breast of a fowl, and some thin slices of ham. Mince the breast ofthe fowl with the ham; add them with from two to three table-spoonfulsof finely-grated parmesan cheese, and season with pepper and salt. Mixall these with the macaroni, and put into a pudding-mould well buttered, and then let it steam in a stew-pan of boiling water for about an hour, and serve quite hot, with rich gravy (as in Omelette). See No. 543*. 

_Obs. _--This, we have been informed, is considered by a grand gourmandas the most important recipe which was added to the collection of hiscook during a gastronomic tour through Europe; it is not an uncommonmode of preparing macaroni on the continent. 

_Omelettes and various ways of dressing Eggs. _--(No. 543*. )

There is no dish which in this country may be considered as coming underthe denomination of a made dish of the second order, which is sogenerally eaten, if good, as an omelette; and no one is so often badlydressed: it is a very faithful assistant in the construction of adinner. 

When you are taken by surprise, and wish to make an appearance beyondwhat is provided for the every-day dinner, a little portable soup melteddown, and some zest (No. 255), and a few vegetables, will make a goodbroth; a pot of the stewed veal of Morrison’s, warmed up; an omelette;and some apple or lemon fritters, can all be got ready at ten minutes’notice, and with the original foundation of a leg of mutton, or a pieceof beef, will make up a very good dinner when company unexpectedlyarrives, in the country. 

The great merit of an omelette is, that it should not be greasy, burnt, nor too much done: if too much of the white of the eggs is left in, noart can prevent its being hard, if it is done: to dress the omelette, the fire should not be too hot, as it is an object to have the wholesubstance heated, without much browning the outside. 

One of the great errors in cooking an omelette is, that it is too thin;consequently, instead of feeling full and moist in the mouth, thesubstance presented is little better than a piece of fried leather: toget the omelette thick is one of the great objects. With respect to theflavours to be introduced, these are infinite; that which is mostcommon, however, is the best, viz. Finely chopped parsley, and chives oronions, or eschalots: however, one made of a mixture of tarragon, chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate variety, omitting or adding theonion or chives. Of the meat flavours, the veal kidney is the mostdelicate, and is the most admired by our neighbours the French: thisshould be cut in dice, and should be dressed (boiled) before it isadded; in the same manner, ham and anchovies, shred small, or tongue, will make a very delicately flavoured dish. 

The objection to an omelette is, that it is too rich, which makes itadvisable to eat but a small quantity. An addition of some finely mashedpotatoes, about two table-spoonfuls, to an omelette of six eggs, willmuch lighten it. 

Omelettes are often served with rich gravy; but, as a general principle, no substance which has been fried should be served in gravy, butaccompanied by it, or what ought to eat dry and crisp, becomes soddenedand flat. 

In the compounding the gravy, great care should be taken that theflavour does not overcome that of the omelette, a thing too littleattended to: a fine gravy, with a flavouring of sweet herbs and onions, we think the best; some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar; but this isto be done only with great care: gravies to Omelettes are in generalthickened: this should never be done with flour; potato starch, or arrowroot, is the best. 

Omelettes should be fried in a small frying-pan made for that purpose, with a small quantity of butter. The omelette’s great merit is to bethick, so as not to taste of the outside; therefore use only half thenumber of whites that you do yelks of eggs: every care must be taken infrying, even at the risk of not having it quite set in the middle: anomelette, which has so much vogue abroad, is here, in general, a thindoubled-up piece of leather, and harder than soft leather sometimes. Thefact is, that as much care must be bestowed on the frying, as should betaken in poaching an egg. A salamander is necessary to those who willhave the top brown; but the kitchen shovel may be substituted for it. 

The following receipt is the basis of all omelettes, of which you maymake an endless variety, by taking, instead of the parsley and eschalot, a portion of sweet herbs, or any of the articles enumerated in thetable of materials used for making forcemeats, see No. 373; or any ofthe forcemeats between Nos. 373 and 386. 

Omelettes are called by the name of what is added to flavour them: a hamor tongue omelette; an anchovy, or veal kidney omelette, &c. : these areprepared exactly in the same way as in the first receipt, leaving outthe parsley and eschalot, and mincing the ham or kidney very fine, &c. , and adding that in the place of them, and then pour over them all sortsof thickened gravies, sauces, &c. 

_Receipt for the common Omelette. _

Five or six eggs will make a good-sized omelette; break them into abasin, and beat them well with a fork; and add a salt-spoonful of salt;have ready chopped two drachms of onion, or three drachms of parsley, agood clove of eschalot minced very fine; beat it well up with the eggs;then take four ounces of fresh butter, and break half of it into littlebits, and put it into the omelette, and the other half into a very cleanfrying-pan; when it is melted, pour in the omelette, and stir it with aspoon till it begins to set, then turn it up all round the edges, andwhen it is of a nice brown it is done: the safest way to take it out isto put a plate on the omelette, and turn the pan upside-down: serve iton a hot dish; it should never be done till just wanted. If maigre, grated cheese, shrimps, or oysters. If oysters, boil them four minutes, and take away the beard and gristly part; they may either be put inwhole, or cut in bits. _Or_, Take eggs ready boiled hard, and either fry them whole, or cut them inhalf; when they are boiled (they will take five minutes), let them liein cold water till you want to use them; then roll them lightly withyour hand on a table, and they will peel without breaking; put them on acloth to dry, and dredge them lightly with flour; beat two eggs in abasin, dip the eggs in, one at a time, and then roll them in finebread-crumbs, or in duck (No. 378) or veal stuffing (No. 374); set themaway ready for frying; fry them in hot oil or clarified butter, servethem up with mushroom sauce, or any other thickened sauce you please;crisp parsley is a pretty garnish. _Or_, Do not boil the eggs till wanted; boil them ten minutes, peel them asabove, cut them in half, put them on a dish, and have ready a sauce madeof two ounces of butter and flour well rubbed together on a plate, andput it in a stew-pan with three quarters of a pint of good milk; set iton the fire, and stir it till it boils; if it is not quite smooth, strain it through a sieve, chop some parsley and a clove of eschalot asfine as possible, and put in your sauce: season it with salt to yourtaste: a little mace and lemon-peel boiled with the sauce, will improveit: if you like it still richer, you may add a little cream, or theyelks of two eggs, beat up with two table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir itin the last thing: do not let it boil after; place the half eggs on adish with the yelks upward, and pour the sauce over them. 

N. B. Any cold fish cut in pieces may be warmed in the above sauce for asent dinner. _Or_, Slice very thin two onions weighing about two ounces each; put them intoa stew-pan with three ounces of butter; keep them covered till they arejust done; stir them every now and then, and when they are of a nicebrown, stir in as much flour as will make them of a stiff paste; then bydegrees add as much water or milk as will make it the thickness of goodcream; season it with, pepper and salt to your taste; have ready boiledhard four or five eggs--you may either shred them, or cut them in halvesor quarters; then put them in the sauce: when they are hot they areready: garnish them with sippets of bread. 

Or, have ready a plain omelette, cut into bits, and put them into thesauce. 

Or, cut off a little bit of one end of the eggs, so that they may standup; and take out the yelks whole of some of them, and cut the whites inhalf, or in quarters. 

_Obs. _--This is called in the Parisian kitchen, “eggs à la trip, with aroux. ”

_Marrow-Bones. _--(No. 544. )

Saw the bones even, so that they will stand steady; put a piece of pasteinto the ends: set them upright in a saucepan, and boil till they aredone enough: a beef marrow-bone will require from an hour and a half totwo hours; serve fresh-toasted bread with them. 

_Eggs fried with Bacon. _--(No. 545. )

Lay some slices of fine streaked bacon (not more than a quarter of aninch thick) in a clean dish, and toast them before the fire in acheese-toaster, turning them when the upper side is browned; first askthose who are to eat the bacon, if they wish it much or little done, _i. E. _ curled and crisped, see No. 526, or mellow and soft (No. 527): ifthe latter, parboil it first. 

Well-cleansed (see No. 83) dripping, or lard, or fresh butter, are thebest fats for frying eggs. 

Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat is hot, break two orthree eggs into it; do not turn them, but, while they are frying, keeppouring some of the fat over them with a spoon; when the yelk justbegins to look white, which it will in about a couple of minutes, theyare done enough; the white must not lose its transparency, but the yelkbe seen blushing through it: if they are done nicely, they will look aswhite and delicate as if they had been poached; take them up with a tinslice, drain the fat from them, trim them neatly, and send them up withthe bacon round them. 

_Ragoût of Eggs and Bacon. _--(No. 545*. )

Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes; throw them into cold water; peelthem and cut them into halves; pound the yelks in a marble mortar, withabout an equal quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, alittle chopped parsley, an anchovy, an eschalot, a quarter of an ounceof butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cayenne, somebread-crumbs, and a very little beaten mace, or allspice; incorporatethem well together, and fill the halves of the whites with this mixture;do them over with the yelk of an egg, and brown them in a Dutch oven, and serve them on relishing rashers of bacon or ham, see No. 527. 

For sauce, melted butter, flavoured to the fancy of the eaters, withmushroom catchup, anchovy, curry-powder (No. 455), or zest (No. 255). 

_To poach Eggs. _--(No. 546. )

The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavour toprocure eggs that have been laid a couple of days--those that are quitenew-laid are so milky that, take all the care you can, your cooking ofthem will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher; youmust have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. 

The beauty of a poached egg is for the yelk to be seen blushing throughthe white, which should only be just sufficiently hardened, to form atransparent veil for the egg. 

Have some boiling water[337-*] in a tea-kettle; pass as much of itthrough a clean cloth as will half fill a stew-pan; break the egg into acup, and when the water boils, remove the stew-pan from the stove, andgently slip the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; thenput it over a very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, theegg is ready; take it up with a slice, and neatly round off the raggededges of the white; send them up on bread toasted on one sideonly, [338-*] with or without butter; or without a toast, garnished withstreaked bacon (Nos. 526 or 527), nicely fried, or as done in No. 545, or slices of broiled beef or mutton (No. 487), anchovies (Nos. 434 and435), pork sausages (No. 87), or spinage (No. 122). 

_Obs. _--The bread should be a little larger than the egg, and about aquarter of an inch thick; only just give it a yellow colour: if youtoast it brown, it will get a bitter flavour; or moisten it by pouring alittle hot water upon it: some sprinkle it with a few drops of vinegar, or of essence of anchovy (No. 433). 

_To boil Eggs to eat in the Shell, or for Salads. _--(No. 547. )

The fresher laid the better: put them into boiling water; if you likethe white just set, [338-+] about two minutes boiling is enough; anew-laid egg will take a little more; if you wish the yelk to be set, itwill take three, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. See No. 372. 

_Obs. _--A new-laid egg will require boiling longer than a stale one, byhalf a minute. 

Tin machines for boiling eggs on the breakfast table are sold by theironmongers, which perform the process very regularly: in four minutesthe white is just set. 

N. B. “Eggs may be preserved for twelve months, in a sweet and palatablestate for eating in the shell, or using for salads, by boiling them forone minute; and when wanted for use let them be boiled in the usualmanner: the white may be a little tougher than a new-laid egg, but theyelk will show no difference. ”--See HUNTER’S _Culina_, page 257. 

_Eggs poached with Sauce of minced Ham. _--(No. 548. )

Poach the eggs as before directed, and take two or three slices ofboiled ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a morsel of onion, a littleparsley, and pepper and salt; stew all together a quarter of an hour;serve up your sauce about half boiling; put the eggs in a dish, squeezeover the juice of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pour the sauceover them. 

_Fried Eggs and minced Ham or Bacon. _--(No. 549. )

Choose some very fine bacon streaked with a good deal of lean; cut thisinto very thin slices, and afterward into small square pieces; throwthem into a stew-pan, and set it over a gentle fire, that they may losesome of their fat. When as much as will freely come is thus melted fromthem, lay them on a warm dish. Put into a stew-pan a ladle-full ofmelted bacon or lard; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen of thesmall pieces of bacon, then stoop the stew-pan and break in an egg. Manage this carefully, and the egg will presently be done: it will bevery round, and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, sothat it will make a very pretty appearance. Take care the yelks do notharden; when the egg is thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, anddo the others. 

⁂ They reckon 685 ways of dressing eggs in the French kitchen: we hopeour half dozen receipts give sufficient variety for the English kitchen. 

_Tea. _[339-*]--(No. 550. )

“The Jesuit that came from China, A. D. 1664, told Mr. Waller, that to adrachm of tea they put a pint of water, and frequently take the yelksof two new-laid eggs, and beat them up with as much fine sugar as issufficient for the tea, and stir all well together. He also informedhim, that we let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the tea, which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the herb; thewater must remain upon it no longer than while you can say the‘_Miserere_’ psalm very leisurely; you have then only the spiritual partof the tea, the proportion of which to the water must be about a drachmto a pint. ”--Sir KENELM DIGBY’S _Cookery_, London, 1669, page 176. 

_Obs. _--The addition of an egg makes the “_Chinese Soup_, ” a morenutritious and substantial meal for a traveller. 

_Coffee. _[340-*]

Coffee, as used on the Continent, serves the double purpose of anagreeable tonic, and an exhilarating beverage, without the unpleasanteffects of wine. 

Coffee, as drunk in England, debilitates the stomach, and produces aslight nausea. In France and in Italy it is made strong from the bestcoffee, and is poured out hot and transparent. 

In England it is usually made from bad coffee, served out tepid andmuddy, and drowned in a deluge of water, and sometimes deserves thetitle given it in “the Petition against Coffee, ” 4to. 1674, page 4, “abase, black, thick, nasty, bitter, stinking puddle water. ”

To make Coffee fit for use, you must employ the German filter, --pay atleast 4_s. _ the pound for it, --and take at least an ounce for twobreakfast-cups. 

No coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in London. 

London people should either take their coffee pure, or put a couple oftea-spoonfuls of cream to each cup. 

N. B. The above is a contribution from an intelligent traveller, who haspassed some years on the Continent. 

_Suet Pudding, Wiggy’s way. _--(No. 551. )

Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table-spoonfuls; eggs, two;and a little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine aspossible, roll it with the rolling-pin so as to mix it well with theflour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix alltogether; wet your cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a quarter. 

Mrs. Glasse has it, “when you have made your water boil, then put yourpudding into your pot. ”

_Yorkshire Pudding under roast Meat, the Gipsies’ way. _--(No. 552. )

This pudding is an especially excellent accompaniment to a sir-loin ofbeef, --loin of veal, --or any fat and juicy joint. 

Six table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt, and apint of milk, so as to make a middling stiff batter, a little stifferthan you would for pancakes; beat it up well, and take care it is notlumpy; put a dish under the meat, and let the drippings drop into ittill it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter;--whenthe upper surface is brown and set, turn it, that both sides may bebrown alike: if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding an inch thick, it will take two hours at a good fire. 

N. B. The true Yorkshire pudding is about half an inch thick when done;but it is the fashion in London to make them full twice that thickness. 

_Plum Pudding. _--(No. 553. )

Suet, chopped fine, six ounces; Malaga raisins, stoned, six ounces;currants, nicely washed and picked, eight ounces; bread-crumbs, threeounces; flour, three ounces; eggs, three; sixth of a nutmeg; small bladeof mace; same quantity of cinnamon, pounded as fine as possible; half atea-spoonful of salt; half a pint of milk, or rather less; sugar, fourounces: to which may be added, candied lemon, one ounce; citron, half anounce. Beat the eggs and spice well together; mix the milk with them bydegrees, then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine close linen clothinto boiling water, and put it in a hair-sieve; flour it a little, andtie it up close; put it into a saucepan containing six quarts of boilingwater: keep a kettle of boiling water along side of it, and fill up yourpot as it wastes; be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least. 

_My Pudding. _--(No. 554. )

Beat up the yelks and whites of three eggs; strain them through a sieve(to keep out the treddles), and gradually add to them about a quarter ofa pint of milk, --stir these well together; rub together in a mortar twoounces of moist sugar, and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on asixpence, --stir these into the eggs and milk; then put in four ounces offlour, and beat it into a smooth batter; by degrees stir into it sevenounces of suet (minced as fine as possible), and three ounces ofbread-crumbs; mix all thoroughly together at least half an hour beforeyou put the pudding into the pot; put it into an earthenwarepudding-mould that you have well buttered; tie a pudding-cloth over itvery tight; put it into boiling water, and boil it three hours. 

Put one good plum into it, and Moost-Aye says, you may then tell theeconomist that you have made a good plum pudding--without plums: thiswould be what schoolboys call “mile-stone pudding, ” _i. E. _ “a milebetween one plum and another. ”

N. B. Half a pound of Muscatel raisins cut in half, and added to theabove, will make a most admirable plum pudding: a little gratedlemon-peel may be added. 

_Obs. _--If the water ceases to boil, the pudding will become heavy, andbe spoiled; if properly managed, this and the following will be as finepuddings of the kind as art can produce. 

Puddings are best when mixed an hour or two before they are boiled; theingredients by that means amalgamate, and the whole becomes richer andfuller of flavour, especially if the various articles be thoroughly wellstirred together. 

A table-spoonful of treacle will give it a rich brown colour. Seepudding sauce, No. 269, and pudding catchup, No. 446. 

N. B. This pudding may be baked in an oven, or under meat, the same asYorkshire pudding (No. 552); make it the same, only add half a pint ofmilk more: should it be above an inch and a quarter in thickness, itwill take full two hours: it requires careful watching, for if the topgets burned, an empyreumatic flavour will pervade the whole of thepudding. Or, butter some tin mince-pie patty-pans, or saucers, and fillthem with pudding, and set them in a Dutch oven; they will take about anhour. 

_Maigre Plum Pudding. _

Simmer half a pint of milk with two blades of mace, and a roll oflemon-peel, for ten minutes; then strain it into a basin; set it away toget cold: in the mean time beat three eggs in a basin with three ouncesof loaf-sugar, and the third of a nutmeg: then add three ounces offlour; beat it well together, and add the milk by degrees: then put inthree ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces, and three ouncesof bread-crumbs; three ounces of currants washed and picked clean, threeounces of raisins stoned and chopped: stir it all well together. Buttera mould; put it in, and tie a cloth tight over it. Boil it two hours anda half. Serve it up with melted butter, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a little loaf-sugar. 

_A Fat Pudding. _

Break five eggs in a basin; beat them up with a tea-spoonful of sugarand a table-spoonful of flour; beat it quite smooth; then put to it apound of raisins, and a pound of suet; it must not be chopped very fine;butter a mould well; put in the pudding; tie a cloth over it tight, andboil it five hours. 

N. B. This is very rich, and is commonly called a marrow pudding. 

_Pease Pudding. _--(No. 555. )

Put a quart of split pease into a clean cloth; do not tie them up tooclose, but leave a little room for them to swell; put them on in coldwater, to boil slowly till they are tender: if they are good pease theywill be boiled enough in about two hours and a half; rub them through asieve into a deep dish, adding[343-*] to them an egg or two, an ounce ofbutter, and some pepper and salt; beat them well together for about tenminutes, when these ingredients are well incorporated together; thenflour the cloth well, put the pudding in, and tie it up as tight aspossible, and boil it an hour longer. It is as good with boiled beef asit is with boiled pork; and why not with roasted pork?

_Obs. _--This is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beef. 

N. B. Stir this pudding into two quarts of the liquor meat or poultry hasbeen boiled in; give it a boil up, and in five minutes it will makeexcellent extempore pease soup, especially if the pudding has beenboiled in the same pot as the meat (see No. 218, &c. ) Season it withpease powder, No. 458. 

_Plain Bread Pudding. _--(No. 556. )

Make five ounces of bread-crumbs; put them in a basin; pour threequarters of a pint of boiling milk over them; put a plate over the topto keep in the steam; let it stand twenty minutes, then beat it up quitesmooth with two ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. Breakfour eggs on a plate, leaving out one white; beat them well, and addthem to the pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it in a mouldthat has been well buttered and floured; tie a cloth over it, and boilit one hour. 

_Bread and butter Pudding. _--(No. 557. )

You must have a dish that will hold a quart: wash and pick two ounces ofcurrants; strew a few at the bottom of the dish; cut about four layersof very thin bread and butter, and between each layer of bread andbutter strew some currants; then break four eggs in a basin, leaving outone white; beat them well, and add four ounces of sugar and a drachm ofnutmeg; stir it well together with a pint of new milk; pour it overabout ten minutes before you put it in the oven; it will take threequarters of an hour to bake. 

_Pancakes and Fritters. _--(No. 558. )

Break three eggs in a basin; beat them up with a little nutmeg and salt;then put to them four ounces and a half of flour, and a little milk;beat it of a smooth batter; then add by degrees as much milk as willmake it of the thickness of good cream: the frying-pan must be about thesize of a pudding plate, and very clean, or they will stick; make ithot, and to each pancake put in a bit of butter about as big as awalnut: when it is melted, pour in the batter to cover the bottom of thepan; make them the thickness of half a crown; fry them of a light brownon both sides. 

The above will do for apple fritters, by adding one spoonful more offlour; peel your apples, and cut them in thick slices; take out thecore, dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot lard; put them on asieve to drain; dish them neatly, and grate some loaf-sugar over them. 

_Tansy Pancakes. _

The batter for the preceding may be made into tansy pancakes by cuttingfine a handful of young green tansy, and beating it into the batter. Itgives the cakes a pleasant aromatic flavour, and an agreeable, mildbitter taste. A. 

No. 560

The following receipts are from Mr. Henry Osborne, cook to Sir JosephBanks, the late president of the Royal Society:

 _Soho Square, April 20, 1820. _

 Sir, --I send you herewith the last part of the Cook’s Oracle. I have attentively looked over each receipt, and hope they are now correct, and easy to be understood. If you think any need further explanation, Sir Joseph has desired me to wait on you again. I also send the receipts for my ten puddings, and my method of using spring fruit and gourds. 

 I am, Sir, Your humble servant, HENRY OSBORNE. 

_Boston Apple Pudding. _

Peel one dozen and a half of good apples; take out the cores, cut themsmall, put into a stew-pan that will just hold them, with a littlewater, a little cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel of a lemon; stew overa slow fire till quite soft, then sweeten with moist sugar, and pass itthrough a hair sieve; add to it the yelks of four eggs and one white, aquarter of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, the peel of a lemongrated, and the juice of one lemon: beat all well together; line theinside of a pie-dish with good puff paste; put in the pudding, and bakehalf an hour. 

_Spring Fruit Pudding. _

Peel, and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb: put into a stew-panwith the pudding a lemon, a little cinnamon, and as much moist sugar aswill make it quite sweet; set it over a fire, and reduce it to amarmalade; pass through a hair-sieve, and proceed as directed for theBoston pudding, leaving out the lemon-juice, as the rhubarb will befound sufficiently acid of itself. 

_Nottingham Pudding. _

Peel six good apples; take out the core with the point of a small knife, or an apple corer, if you have one; but be sure to leave the appleswhole; fill up where you took the core from with sugar; place them in apie-dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, prepared as for batterpudding, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. 

_Butter Pudding. _

Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat upwell with a little milk, added by degrees till the batter is quitesmooth; make it the thickness of cream; put into a buttered pie-dish, and bake three quarters of an hour; or into a buttered and flouredbasin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one and a half hour, or twohours. 

_Newmarket Pudding. _

Put on to boil a pint of good milk, with half a lemon-peel, a littlecinnamon, and a bay-leaf; boil gently for five or ten minutes; sweetenwith loaf sugar; break the yelks of five, and the whites of three eggs, into a basin; beat them well, and add the milk: beat all well together, and strain through a fine hair-sieve, or tamis: have some bread andbutter cut very thin; lay a layer of it in a pie-dish, and then a layerof currants, and so on till the dish is nearly full; then pour thecustard over it, and bake half an hour. 

_Newcastle, or Cabinet Pudding. _

Butter a half melon mould, or quart basin, and stick all round withdried cherries, or fine raisins, and fill up with bread and butter, &c. As in the above; and steam it an hour and a half. 

_Vermicelli Pudding. _

Boil a pint of milk, with lemon-peel and cinnamon; sweeten withloaf-sugar; strain through a sieve, and add a quarter of a pound ofvermicelli; boil ten minutes; then put in the yelks of five, and thewhites of three eggs; mix well together, and steam it one hour and aquarter: the same may be baked half an hour. 

_Bread Pudding. _

Make a pint of bread-crumbs; put them in a stew-pan with as much milk aswill cover them, the peel of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, and asmall piece of cinnamon; boil about ten minutes; sweeten with powderedloaf-sugar; take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs; beat all welltogether, and bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an hour. 

_Custard Pudding. _

Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of good cream; thicken withflour and water made perfectly smooth, till it is stiff enough to bearan egg on it; break in the yelks of five eggs; sweeten with powderedloaf-sugar; grate in a little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon: add half aglass of good brandy; then whip the whites of the five eggs till quitestiff, and mix gently all together: line a pie-dish with good puffpaste, and bake half an hour. 

N. B. Ground rice, potato flour, panada, and all puddings made frompowders, are, or may be, prepared in the same way. 

_Boiled Custards. _

Put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon cutvery thin, a little grated nutmeg, a bay or laurel-leaf, and a smallstick of cinnamon; set it over a quick fire, but be careful it does notboil over: when it boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer tenminutes; break the yelks of eight, and the whites of four eggs into abasin; beat them well; then pour in the milk a little at a time, stirring it as quick as possible to prevent the eggs curdling; set it onthe fire again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon; let it have justone boil; pass it through a tamis, or fine sieve: when cold, add alittle brandy, or white wine, as may be most agreeable to the eater’spalate. Serve up in glasses, or cups. 

Custards for baking are prepared as above, passed through a fine sieve;put them into cups; grate a little nutmeg over each: bake them about 15or 20 minutes. 

TO DRESS SPRING FRUIT. 

_Spring Fruit Soup. _

Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb; blanch it in waterthree or four minutes; drain it on a sieve, and put it into a stew-pan, with two onions sliced, a carrot, an ounce of lean ham, and a good bitof butter; let it stew gently over a slow fire till tender; then put intwo quarts of good _consommé_, to which add two or three ounces ofbread-crumbs; boil about fifteen minutes; skim off all the fat; seasonwith salt and Cayenne pepper; pass it through a tamis, and serve up withfried bread. 

_Spring Fruit Pudding. _

Clean as above three or four dozen sticks of rhubarb; put it in astew-pan, with the peel of a lemon, a bit of cinnamon, two cloves, andas much moist sugar as will sweeten it; set it over a fire, and reduceit to a marmalade; pass it through a hair-sieve; then add the peel of alemon, and half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of good butter, and the yelks of four eggs and one white, and mix all well together;line a pie-dish, that will just contain it, with good puff paste; putthe mixture in, and bake it half an hour. 

_Spring Fruit--A Mock Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel, &c. _

Make a marmalade of three dozen sticks of rhubarb, sweetened with moistsugar; pass it through a hair-sieve, and serve up in a sauce-boat. 

_Spring Fruit Tart. _

Prepare rhubarb as above: cut it into small pieces into a tart-dish;sweeten with loaf-sugar pounded; cover it with a good short crust paste;sift a little sugar over the top, and bake half an hour in a rather hotoven: serve up cold. 

_Spring Cream, or mock Gooseberry Fool. _

Prepare a marmalade as directed for the pudding: to which add a pint ofgood thick cream; serve up in glasses, or in a deep dish. If wanted in ashape, dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a little water; strain itthrough a tamis, and when nearly cold put it to the cream; pour it intoa jelly mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, and serve up plain. 

_Spring Fruit Sherbet. _

Boil six or eight sticks of rhubarb (quite clean) ten minutes in a quartof water; strain the liquor through a tamis into a jug, with the peel ofa lemon cut very thin, and two table-spoonfuls of clarified sugar; letit stand five or six hours, and it is fit to drink. 

_Gourds_ (now called _vegetable Marrow_) _stewed. _

Take off all the skin of six or eight gourds, put them into a stew-pan, with water, salt, lemon-juice, and a bit of butter, or fat bacon, andlet them stew gently till quite tender, and serve up with a rich Dutchsauce, or any other sauce you please that is _piquante_. 

_Gourd Soup_, Should be made of full-grown gourds, but not those that have hard skins;slice three or four, and put them in a stew-pan, with two or threeonions, and a good bit of butter; set them over a slow fire till quitetender (be careful not to let them burn); then add two ounces of crustof bread, and two quarts of good _consommé_; season with salt andCayenne pepper: boil ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; skim off allthe fat, and pass it through a tamis; then make it quite hot, and serveup with fried bread. 

_Fried Gourds. _

Cut five or six gourds in quarters; take off the skin and pulp; stewthem in the same manner as for table: when done, drain them quite dry;beat up an egg, and dip the gourds in it, and cover them well over withbread-crumbs; make some hog’s-lard hot, and fry them a nice lightcolour; throw a little salt and pepper over them, and serve up quitedry. 

_Another Way. _

Take six or eight small gourds, as near of a size as possible; slicethem with a cucumber-slice; dry them in a cloth, and then fry them invery hot lard; throw over a little pepper and salt, and serve up on anapkin. Great attention is requisite to do these well; if the fat isquite hot they are done in a minute, and will soon spoil; if not hotenough, they will eat greasy and tough. 

_To make Beef, Mutton, or Veal Tea. _--(No. 563. )

Cut a pound of lean gravy meat into thin slices; put it into a quart andhalf a pint of cold water; set it over a very gentle fire, where it willbecome gradually warm; when the scum rises, let it continue simmeringgently for about an hour; then strain it through a fine sieve or anapkin; let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the cleartea. 

N. B. An onion, and a few grains of black pepper, are sometimes added. 

If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, you may mince it andpound it as directed in No. 503, and make potted beef. 

To make half a pint of beef tea in five minutes for three halfpence, seeNo. 252. 

_Mutton Broth for the Sick. _--(No. 564. )

Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin of mutton; take off the skinand the fat, and put it into a saucepan; cover it with cold water, (itwill take about a quart to a pound of meat, ) let it simmer very gently, and skim it well; cover it up, and set it over a moderate fire, where itmay stand gently stewing for about an hour; then strain it off. Itshould be allowed to become cold, when all the greasy particles willfloat on the surface, and becoming hard, can be easily taken off, andthe settlings will remain at the bottom. 

See also Nos. 490 and 252. 

N. B. We direct the meat to be done no more than just sufficiently to beeaten; so a sick man may have plenty of good broth for nothing; as bythis manner of producing it, the meat furnishes also a good family meal. 

_Obs. _--This is an inoffensive nourishment for sick persons, and theonly mutton broth that should be given to convalescents, whoseconstitutions require replenishing with restorative aliment of easydigestion. The common way of making it with roots, onions, sweet herbs, &c. &c. Is too strong for weak stomachs. Plain broth will agree with adelicate stomach, when the least addition of other ingredients wouldimmediately offend it. 

For the various ways of flavouring broth, see No. 527. 

Few know how much good may be done by such broth, taken in sufficientquantity at the beginning and decline of bowel complaints and fevers;half a pint taken at a time. See the last two pages of the 7th chapterof the Rudiments of Cookery. 

_Barley Water. _[350-*]--(No. 565. )

Take a couple of ounces of pearl barley, wash it clean with cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling water, and let it boil for fiveminutes; pour off this water, and add to it two quarts of boiling water:boil it to two pints, and strain it. 

The above is simple barley water. To a quart of this is frequently added

 Two ounces of figs, sliced; The same of raisins, stoned; Half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised; And a pint of water. 

Boil it till it is reduced to a quart, and strain. 

_Obs. _--These drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent feversand inflammatory disorders, for which plenty of mild diluting liquor isone of the principal remedies: and if not suggested by the medicalattendant, is frequently demanded by honest instinct, in terms too plainto be misunderstood: the stomach sympathizes with every fibre of thehuman frame, and no part of it can be distressed without in some degreeoffending the stomach: therefore it is of the utmost importance to sooththis grand organ, by rendering every thing we offer to it as elegant andagreeable as the nature of the case will admit of: the barley drinkprepared according to the second receipt, will be received with pleasureby the most delicate palate. 

_Whey. _--(No. 566. )

Make a pint of milk boil; put to it a glass or two of white wine; put iton the fire till it just boils again; then set it on one side till thecurd has settled; pour off the clear whey, and sweeten it as you like. 

Cider is often substituted for wine, or half the quantity of vinegarthat we have ordered wine. 

_Obs. _--When there is no fire in the sick room, this may be put hot intoa bottle, and laid between the bed and mattress; it will keep warmseveral hours. 

_Toothache and anti-rheumatic Embrocation. _--(No. 567. )

In no branch of the practice of physic is there more dangerous quackery, than in the dental department. 

To all people the toothache is an intolerable torment; not even aphilosopher can endure it patiently; what an overcoming agony then mustit be to a grand gourmand! besides the mortification of being deprivedof the means of enjoying that consolation which he looks to as the grandsolace for all sublunary cares. 

When this affliction befalls him, we recommend the following specificfor it;--

 ℞ Sal volatile, three parts. Laudanum, one part. 

Mix, and rub the part affected frequently, or if the tooth which achesbe hollow, drop some of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into thetooth. For a general faceache, or sore throat, moisten a bit of flannelwith it, and put it at night to the part affected. 

_Stomachic Tincture_--(No. 569. )--is

 Peruvian bark, bruised, one ounce and a half. Orange-peel, do. One ounce. Brandy, or proof spirit, one pint. 

Let these ingredients steep for ten days, shaking the bottle every day;let it remain quiet two days, and then decant the clear liquor. 

Dose--a tea-spoonful in a wineglass of water, twice a day, when you feellanguid, _i. E. _ when the stomach is empty, about an hour before dinner, and in the evening. 

This agreeable aromatic tonic is an effective help to concoction; and weare under personal obligations to it, for frequently restoring ourstomach to good temper, and procuring us good appetite and gooddigestion. 

In low nervous affections arising from a languid circulation, and whenthe stomach is in a state of debility from age, intemperance, or othercauses, this is a most acceptable restorative. 

N. B. Tea made with dried and bruised Seville orange-peel, in the sameway as common tea, and drank with milk and sugar, has been taken bynervous and dyspeptic persons with great benefit. 

Sucking a bit of dried orange-peel about an hour before dinner, when thestomach is empty, is very grateful and strengthening to it. 

_Paregoric Elixir. _--(No. 570. )

A drachm of purified opium, same of flowers of benjamin, same of oil ofaniseed, camphor, two scruples; steep all in a pint of brandy or proofspirit; let it stand ten days, occasionally shaking it up: strain. 

A tea-spoonful in half a pint of White wine whey (No. 562), tewahdiddle(No. 467), or gruel (No. 572), taken the last thing at night, is anagreeable and effectual medicine for coughs and colds. It is alsoexcellent for children who have the hooping-cough, in doses of from fiveto twenty drops in a little water, or on a little bit of sugar. 

_Dr. Kitchiner’s Receipt to make Gruel. _--(No. 572. )

Ask those who are to eat it, if they like it thick or thin; if thelatter, mix well together by degrees, in a pint basin, onetable-spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold water; if the former, usetwo spoonfuls. 

Have ready in a stew-pan, a pint of boiling water or milk; pour this bydegrees to the oatmeal you have mixed; return it into the stew-pan; setit on the fire, and let it boil for five minutes; stirring it all thetime to prevent the oatmeal from burning at the bottom of the stew-pan;skim and strain it through a hair-sieve. 

2d. To convert this into caudle, add a little ale, wine, or brandy, withsugar; and if the bowels are disordered, a little nutmeg or ginger, grated. 

_Obs. _ Gruel may be made with broth (No. 490, or No. 252, or No. 564), instead of water; (to make _crowdie_, see No. 205*); and may beflavoured with sweet herbs, soup roots, and savoury spices, by boilingthem for a few minutes in the water you are going to make the gruelwith; or zest (No. 255), pease powder (No. 458), or dried mint, mushroomcatchup (No. 409); or a few grains of curry powder (No. 455); or savouryragoût powder (No. 457); or Cayenne (No. 404); or celery-seed bruised, or soup herb powder (No. 459); or an onion minced very fine and bruisedin with the oatmeal; or a little eschalot wine (No. 402); or essence ofcelery (Nos. 409, 413, 417, or No. 420), &c. 

Plain gruel, such as is directed in the first part of this receipt, isone of the best breakfasts and suppers that we can recommend to therational epicure; is the most comforting soother of an irritable stomachthat we know; and particularly acceptable to it after a hard day’s workof intemperate feasting: when the addition of half an ounce of butter, and a tea-spoonful of Epsom salt, will give it an aperient quality, which will assist the principal viscera to get rid of their burden. 

“Water gruel, ” says Tryon in his _Obs. On Health_, 16mo. 1688, p. 42, is“the king of spoon meats, ” and “the queen of soups, ” and gratifiesnature beyond all others. 

In the “Art of Thriving, ” 1697, p. 8, are directions for preparingfourscore noble and wholesome dishes, upon most of which a man may liveexcellently well for two-pence a day; the author’s Obs. On water gruelis, that “essence of oatmeal makes a noble and exhilarating meal!”

Dr. Franklin’s favourite breakfast was a good basin of warm gruel, inwhich there was a small slice of butter, with toasted bread and nutmeg;the expense of this he reckoned at three halfpence. 

_Scotch Burgoo. _--(No. 572*. )

“This humble dish of our northern brethren forms no contemptible articleof food. It possesses the grand qualities of salubrity, pleasantness, and cheapness. It is, in fact, a sort of oatmeal hasty pudding withoutmilk; much used by those patterns of combined industry, frugality, andtemperance, the Scottish peasantry; and this, among other examples ofthe economical Scotch, is well worthy of being occasionally adopted byall who have large families and small incomes. ”

It is made in the following easy and expeditious manner:--

“To a quart of oatmeal add gradually two quarts of water, so that thewhole may smoothly mix: then stirring it continually over the fire, boilit together for a quarter of an hour; after which, take it up, and stirin a little salt and butter, with or without pepper. This quantity willserve a family of five or six persons for a moderate meal. ”--Oddy’sFamily Receipt Book, p. 204. 

_Anchovy Toast. _--(No. 573. )

Bone and wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with a little freshbutter; rub them through a sieve, and spread them on a toast, see Nos. 434 and 435, and No. 355. 

_Obs. _ You may add, while pounding the anchovies, a little made mustardand curry powder (No. 455) or a few grains of Cayenne, or a little maceor other spice. It may be made still more savoury, by frying the toastin clarified butter. 

_Deviled Biscuit_, --(No. 574. )

Is the above composition spread on a biscuit warmed before the fire in aDutch oven, with a sufficient quantity of salt and savoury spice (No. 457), zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455), or Cayenne peppersprinkled over it. 

_Obs. _ This _ne plus ultra_ of high spiced relishes, and No. 538, frequently make their appearance at tavern dinners, when the votaries ofBacchus are determined to vie with each other in sacrificing to thejolly god. 

FOOTNOTES:

[300-*] This may be still longer preserved by the process directed inNo. 252. 

[303-*] Hashes and meats dressed a second time, should only simmergently till just warm through; it is supposed they have been done verynearly, if not quite enough, already; select those parts of the jointthat have been least done. 

In making a hash from a leg of mutton, do not destroy the marrow-bone tohelp the gravy of your hash, to which it will make no perceptibleaddition; but saw it in two, twist writing-paper round the ends, andsend it up on a plate as a side dish, garnished with sprigs of parsley:if it is a roast leg, preserve the end bone, and send it up between themarrow-bones. This is a very pretty luncheon, or supper dish. 

[303-+] See “_The Court and Kitchen of_ ELIZABETH, commonly called _JoanCromwell_, ” 16mo. London, 1664, page 106. 

[304-*] The “_bain-marie_, ” or water-bath (see note to No. 529*), is thebest utensil to warm up made dishes, and things that have been alreadysufficiently dressed, as it neither consumes the sauce, nor hardens themeat. If you have not a water-bath a Dutch oven will sometimes supplythe place of it. 

“_Bain-marie_ is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put allyour stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, butit must not boil: the effect of this _bain-marie_ is to keep every thingwarm without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularlythe quality. When I had the honour of serving a nobleman, who kept avery extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner wasconsequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using _bain-marie_, as acertain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes. If you keepyour sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fireside, the soup reduces, andbecomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. This isthe best way of warming turtle, or mock turtle soup, as the thick partis always at the bottom, and this method prevents it from burning, andkeeps it always good. ”--UDE’S _Cookery_, page 18. 

[306-*] Probably a contraction of “_haut ragoût_. ”

[308-*] The proverb says, “_Of all the fowls of the air_, commend me tothe shin of beef; for there’s marrow for the master, meat for themistress, gristles for the servants, and bones for the dogs. ”

[309-*] The remotest parts of the world were visited, and earth, air, and ocean ransacked, to furnish the complicated delicacies of a Romansupper. 

“_Suidas_ tells us, that _Pityllus_, who had a _hot_ tongue and a _cold_stomach, in order to gratify the latter without offending the former, made a sheath for his tongue, so that he could swallow his pottagescalding hot; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire gentleman of thelike quality!!”--See Dr. MOFFAT _on Food_, 4to. 1655. 

“In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where theculinary arts are pushed to excess, luxury becomes false to itself, andthings are valued, not as they are nutritious, or agreeable to theappetite, but in proportion as they are rare, out of season, orcostly. ”--CADOGAN _on Gout_, 8vo. 1771, p. 48. 

[309-+] “Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which requires, in addition to a most studious and diligentapplication, no small share of intellect, and the strictest sobriety andpunctuality. ”--Preface to UDE’S _Cookery_, p. 6. 

[310-*] This suet is not to be wasted: when it comes from the oven, takeout the beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve; let itstand till it is cold; then clarify the fat as directed in No. 83, andit will do for frying, &c. 

[312-*] If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, thicken it asin the above receipt, and just before you give it the last boil up, addto it a large spoonful of mushroom catchup, and, if you like, the samequantity of port wine. 

[313-*] “It must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inaccessible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat ofcharcoal in the furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its ownexudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliaries, it may appear attable with a powerful claim to approbation. ”--_Tabella Cibaria_, p. 47. 

[313-+] “‘_C’est la soupe_, ’ says one of the best of proverbs, ‘_quifait le soldat_. ’ ‘It is the soup that makes the soldier. ’ Excellent asour troops are in the field, there cannot be a more unquestionable fact, than their immense inferiority to the French in the business of cookery. The English soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on the coals, by which means the one and the better half is lost, and the other burnedto a cinder. Whereas, six French troopers fling their messes into thesame pot, and extract a delicious soup, ten times more nutritious thanthe simple _rôti_ could ever be. ”--BLACKWOOD’S _Edinburgh Magazine_, vol. Vii. P. 668. 

[314-*] The less gravy or butter, and the more beating, the better willbe your potted beef, if you wish it to keep: if for immediate eating, you may put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter, as the meat willpound easier and look and taste more mellow. 

[318-*] See receipt to hash mutton, Nos. 360 and 361, and No. 484. 

[320-*] Some cooks make the gravy, &c. In the following manner:--Slice alarge onion; fry it brown; drain all fat from it, and put it into astew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of dozen berries ofallspice, same of black pepper, three blades of mace, and a pint and ahalf of water; cover down close, and boil gently, for half an hour; thenstrain it through a sieve over the veal, and let it simmer gently forabout three hours: about half an hour before it is done, mix twotable-spoonfuls of flour in a tea-cupful of cold water; mix some of thegravy with it, and then put it into the stew-pan. 

N. B. Three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added when theveal is put in. 

[323-*] Vulgo, _salary_. 

[324-*] Supposed sorrel. 

[324-+] This is by Dr. BENTLEY thought to be time, or thyme. 

[324-++] Parsley. Vide CHAMBERLAYNE. 

[324-§] Of this composition, see the works of the copper-farthing dean. 

[324-||] Which we suppose to be near four hours. 

[325-*] To boil bacon, see No. 13. 

[325-+] Meat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without beingimmediately exposed to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be moregenerally employed: it becomes delicately tender, without beingover-done, and the whole of the nourishment and gravy is preserved. This, in chemical technicals, is called _balneum maris_, a water-bath;in culinary, _bain-marie_; which A. CHAPELLE, in his “_Modern Cook_, ”8vo. Page 25, London, 1744, translates “Mary’s bath. ” See note to No. 485. 

MARY SMITH, in her “_Complete Housekeeper_, ” 1772, 8vo. Pages 105 and247, translates “_Sauce Robert_, ” ROE-BOAT-SAUCE; an “_omelette_, ” aHAMLET; and gives you a receipt how to make “_Soupe à la_ RAIN!”

[331-*] Rotten cheese toasted is the _ne plus ultra_ of _haut goût_, andonly eatable by the thorough-bred _gourmand_ in the most inverted stateof his jaded appetite. 

[331-+] The nursery name for bread toasted on one side only. 

[337-*] Straining the water is an indispensable precaution, unless youuse spring-water. 

[338-*] “A couple of poached eggs, with a few fine, dry, fried collopsof pure bacon, are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal, ” says SirKENELM DIGBY, M. D. In his _Closet of Cookery_, London, 1669, page 167. 

[338-+] “The lightest mode of preparing eggs for the table, is to boilthem only as long as is necessary to coagulate slightly the greater partof the white, without depriving the yelk of its fluidity. ”--Dr. PEARSON’S _Mat. Alim. _ 8vo. 1808, p. 36. 

[339-*] VARIOUS WAYS OF MAKING TEA. 

1. 

“The _Japanese_ reduce their tea to a fine powder by pounding it; theyput certain portions of this into a tea-cup, pour boiling water upon it, stir it up, and drink it as soon as it is cool enough. ”

2. 

“DUBUISSON’S MANNER OF MAKING TEA. 

“Put the tea into a kettle with cold water; cover it close, set it onthe fire, and make it all but boil; when you see a sort of white scum onthe surface, take it from the fire; when the leaves sink it is ready. ”

3. 

“The night before you wish to have tea ready for drinking, pour on it asmuch cold water as you wish to make tea; next morning pour off the clearliquor, and when you wish to drink it, make it warm. ”

The above are from “_L’Art du Limonadier_” _de_ DUBUISSON, Paris, p. 267, 268. Or, 4. 

“A great saving may be made by making a tincture of tea, thus: pourboiling water upon it, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting intoeach cup no more than is necessary to fill it about one-third full: filleach cup up with hot water from an urn or kettle; thus the tea will bealways hot and equally strong to the end, and one tea-spoonful will befound enough for three cups for each person: according to the presentmode of making it, three times the quantity is often used. ”--See Dr. TRUSLER’S _Way to be Rich and Respectable_, 8vo. 1796, page 27. 

[Tea should only be made as an infusion, --that is, pouring boiling hotwater upon it, and letting it stand a few minutes to draw. A. ]

[340-*] See Dr. Houghton on Coffee, in vol. Xxi. Of the _Phil. Trans. _page 311. 

[The best of coffee is imported into this country, and can be had cheapand good. A. ]

[343-*] To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, the economical housekeeper, who has a large family to feed, may now addtwo pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To manythis mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. See also No. 107. 

[350-*] Ground barley, or barley-meal, is sold in this city; with whichbarley-water gruel or a panada may be readily made, for the sick, or forsoups. A. 

MARKETING TABLES, _Showing the seasons when_ MEAT, POULTRY, _and_ VEGETABLES, _are_ BEST_and_ CHEAPEST. 

MEAT. 

 +-----------+-----------+------------------------------------------------+ |_Weight |_Weight | | | of Meat | of Bone | | | before | after | BEEF. | | it was | being | | | dressed. _ | dressed. _ | THE HIND QUARTER. | |-----------+-----------+ | |_lb. _ _oz. _|_lb. _ _oz. _| _per lb. _ | | | 13 0 | 1 8 | 1. Sirloin 0 9 | Roasted (No. 19). | | 20 0 | 4 0 | 2. Rump 0 9 |{Steak to Broil (No. | | | | |{ 94), to Stew (Nos. | | | | |{ 500 and 501). | | 11 0 | 1 4 | 3. Edge-Bone 0 6 | Boiled (No. 8). | | 13 12 | 1 8 | 4. Buttock, or 0 7 |{Ditto (No. 7), or | | | | Round |{ Savoury Salted | | | | |{ Beef (No. 496). | | | | 5. Mouse ditto 0 6 |{For Alamode Beef | | | | |{ (No. 502). | | | | 6. Veiny Piece 0 7 |{Generally Baked or | | | | |{ Salted. | | 11 0 | 1 8 | 7. Thick Flank 0 6 | Salted. | | | | 8. Thin ditto 0 6-1/2| Ditto. | | | | 9. Leg 0 2-1/2|{Soup of (No. 193), | | | | |{ Stewed (No. 493) | | | | | | | | THE FORE QUARTER. | | | | | | | | _per lb. _ | | | 14 4 | 1 12 |10. Fore Ribs, 0 9 |{Roasted (No. 20), | | | | 6 Ribs |{ Boned and Rolled | | | | |{ (No. 21). | | | |11. Middle do. , 0 7 | Ditto. | | | | 3 do. | | | | |12. Chuck do. , 0 5 | For making Gravy. | | | | 3 do. | | | | |13. Shoulder, or}0 6 | For Steaks or Soup. | | | | Leg of } | | | | | Mutton Piece} | | | | | |{For Stewing (No. | | | |14. Brisket 0 6 |{ 494), or Haricot | | | | |{ (No. 495), --or | | | | |{ Salted. | | | |15. Clod 0 4-1/2|{Principally used for| | | | |{ Beef Sausages. | | 8 4 | 0 10 |16. Neck, or } 0 3-1/2|{Ditto, or making | | | | Sticking } |{ Soup. | | | | Piece } | | | | | |{Excellent Scotch | | 9 0 | 2 4 |17. Shin 0 2-1/2|{ Barley Broth (No. | | | | |{ 204), and Stewed | | | | |{ (No. 493). | | | |18. The Head |{Soup of (No. 239), | | | | |{ Stewed, (No. 507);| | | | |{ and | | | | The Tail |{Do. (No. 240), do. | | | | |{ (No. 508. ) | | | | The Heels |{Boiled (No. 18*), | | | | |{ Jelly of (No. | | | | |{ 198), Soup (No. | | | | |{ 240*). | | | | | | | | | | | | MUTTON. | | | | | |_lb. _ _oz. _|_lb. _ _oz. _| _per lb. _ | | | 8 0 | 0 13 | 1. Leg } |{ Boiled (No. 1), or | | | | 2. Loin, best} |{ Roasted (No. 24). | | | | end } 0 8 |{ Do. (No. 1, ) | | | | 3. Do. , chump} |{ Roasted (No. 28), | | | | end } |{ Chops. | | | | |{ Do. (No. 2. ) | | 6 0 | 0 8 | 4. Neck, best} 0 7 |{ Roasted (No. 29), | | | | end } |{ Irish Stew (No. | | | | |{ 488), Haricot (No. | | | | |{ 489), Stewed (No. | | | | |{ 490). | | | | 5. Do. , scrag} |{To make Broth (No. | | | | end } 0 5 |{ 194). | | 8 4 | 1 0 | 6. Shoulder 0 7 | Roasted (No. 27). | | | | 7. Breast 0 5 |{Grilled (_Obs. _ to | | | | |{No. 38). | | | | Head | Broth. | | | | The Chine, or} | | | | | the Saddle, } | | | | | two Loins, } |{Roasted (No. 31), | | | | The Haunch }0 8 |{ Venisonified (No. | | | | is a Leg, } |{ 32). | | | | and part of } | | | | | the Loin } | | | | | | | | | | | | | VEAL. | | | | | | | | _per lb. _ | | | | | 1. Loin, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 35). | | | | end } | | | | | 2. Do. , chump} 0 11 | Do. Do. | | | | end } | | | | | |{Roasted (No. 34), to| | | | 3. Fillet 1 1 |{ make Veal Olives | | | | |{ (No. 518), Scotch | | | | |{ Collops (No. | | | | |{ 517*). | | | | 4. Knuckle, } 0 7 |{To Ragoût (No. | | | | Hind } |{ 522), to Stew (No. | | | | The whole} 0 10-1/2|{ 523), Soup of | | | | Leg } |{ (No. 193). | | 9 0 | 1 0 | 5. Neck, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 37). | | | | end } | | | 5 0 | 0 10 | 6. Do. , scrag} 0 8 | Do. Do. | | | | end } | | | | | The whole} 0 9-1/2| | | | | Neck } | | | | | 7. Blade Bone 0 10 | Roasted. | | | | |{Stewed (No. 515); to| | | | 8. Breast, best}0 11 |{ Ragoût (No. 517), | | | | end } |{ to Curry (No. | | | | |{ 497). | | | | 9. Do. , brisket}0 10 |{Stewed (No. 515); to| | | | end } |{ Ragoût (No. 517). | | | |10. Knuckle, } 0 7 | Same as Hind | | | | Fore } | Knuckle. | | | | The head, |{Boiled, plain (No. | | | | with the skin |{ 10), to Hash (Nos. | | | | on |{ 10 and 520). | | | | Do. , skinned | | | | | Cutlets |{Fried (No. 90), | | | | |{ Broiled (No. 521). | ------------+-----------+--------------------------+---------------------+

The Nos. Refer to the receipts for dressing. 

In the foregoing table, we have given the proportions of _bone_ to_meat_, --the former not being weighed till cooked, by which, of course, its weight was considerably diminished. 

These proportions differ in almost every animal, --and from the differentmanner in which they are cut. 

Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the _dearest_ price. Infact, the best meat is the _cheapest_; and those who treat a tradesmanliberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than thosewho are for ever bargaining for the market penny. In dividing thejoints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the bones, fat, flaps, &c. , so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny perpound in most pieces; and a butcher will be happy to give the turn ofhis knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair priceof the article he purchases:--have those who are unwilling to do so anyreason to complain?--have they not invited such conduct?

The _quality_ of butcher’s meat, varies quite as much as the _price_ ofit, according to its age, how it has been fed, and especially how it hasbeen treated the week before it has been killed. 

The following statements were sent to us by a very respectabletradesman:--

Beef is _best_ and _cheapest_ from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The price, per pound, now varies from 4_d. _ to 1_s. _

Veal is _best_ from March to July. The price varies according to theseason and the supply; and the quality differs so much, that the samejoints now sell from 5_d_. To 11_d. _ per pound. 

Mutton is _best_ from Christmas to Midsummer; the difference in pricebetween the worst and the best, is now from 5_d. _ to 9_d. _ per pound. 

Grass lamb is _best_ from Easter to June; house lamb from Christmas toJune. 

POULTRY. 

 +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ | _Poultry. _ |_Come into | _Continue. _ | _Cheapest. _ | | | Season. _ | | | +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ | |{Spring chickens |To be had all the}| | |Chickens |{ April | year }| November. | |Poulards, with |March |Till June | December. | | eggs | | | | | |{Dearest in April, |To be had all the}| | |Fowls |{ May, and June | year }| November. | |Capons |{Largest at |Ditto |{October and | | | Christmas | |{November. | |Green Geese |March |Till September | do. | |Geese |September |---- February | do. | |Turkey poults |April |---- June | do. | |Turkeys |September |---- March | do. | |Ducklings |March |---- May | do. | |Ducks |June |---- February | do. | | | | |{December; | |Wild ducks |September |Till ditto |{but the flights| | | | |{are uncertain. | |Widgeons | | | | |Teal | | | | |Plovers | | | | |Larks |November |Till March | Ditto. | |Wheatears |July |And during August | | |Wild pigeons |March |Till September | August. | |Tame do. | | | | |Tame rabbits | |All the year | | |Wild do. |June |Till February | November. | |Sucking pigs | |All the year | | |Leverets |March |Till September | | |Hares |September | | | |Partridges |Do. | | | |Pheasants |October | | | |Grouse |August | | | |Moor game | |Till March | | |Woodcock snipes |November | | | +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+

Cocks’ combs, fat livers, eggs, &c. Are _dearest_ in April and May, and_cheapest_ in August. 

Fowls’ heads may be had three for a penny; a dozen will make a very goodpie or _soup_, like No. 244. 

Turkey heads, about a penny each. 

Duck giblets, about three half-pence a set; four sets will make a_tureen of good soup for sixpence_. See No. 244. 

_Obs. _--Poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty. 

The _price of it_ varies as much as the size and quality of it, and thesupply at market, and the demand for it. 

It is generally _dearest_ from March to July, when the town is fullest;and _cheapest_ about September, when the game season commences, and theweather being colder, allows of its being brought from more distantparts, and the town becoming thin, there is less demand for it. 

The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to economicalfamilies, who, from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons, we havenoted, it is sometimes as cheap as butcher’s meat. 

VEGETABLES. 

The public are frequently, from want of regular information when theproper seasons arrive for vegetables, put to much inconvenience inattending the markets, taking unnecessary inquiries, &c. 

The following list, it is presumed, will afford much useful informationto the reader:--

 +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ |_Names of Vegetables. _ | _Earliest | _Earliest | _When | | | time for | natural | cheapest. _ | | | forced. _ | growth. _ | | +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ |Artichokes (No. 136) | |July on to October |September. | |Ditto Jerusalem | |From Sept. To June {|Nov. Dec. & | | (No. 117) | | {|foll. Months. | |Angelica stalks, } | {|Middle of May, and }|June. | | for preserving } | {| whole of June }| | |Asparagus (No. 123) |{Begin. Of |Mid. Of April, May, }|June and | | |{ Jan. | June, and July }| July. | |Beans, French, or} |{Early in | End of June, or }|August. | | Kidneys } |{ Feb. | beginning of July}| | |Scarlet ditto | |July |September. | |Windsor beans, long }| |June |July & Aug. | | pods and early kinds }| | | | |Beet, red (No. 127) | |All the year |Dec. & Jan. | |Ditto, white, the leaves| |July | | |Borcole, or Scotch } | |November |Dec. & Jan. | | Cale, or Kale. } | | | | |Broccoli (No. 126) | |October |Feb. & Mar. | |Cabbage (No. 118) | |May and June |July. | |Ditto, red | |July and August |August. | |Ditto, white | |October |October. | |Cardoons | {|Nov. And three |December. | | | {| following months | | |Carrots (No. 129) | |May |August. | |Cauliflowers (No. 125) | |Beginning of June |July & Aug. | |Celery (No. 289) | |Ditto September |November. | |Chervil | |April |June. | |Corn salad | |May |---- | |Chervil (No. 264) | {|March, and through |May. | | | {| the year | | |Cucumbers (No. 135) |March |Beginning of July |Aug. & Sep. | |Endive | {|June, and through |Sep. & Oct. | | | {| the year | | |Eschalots, for keeping} | {|August, and through |Sep. & two | |(No. 402) } | {| the year |fol. Months. | |Leeks | {|September, and six |Novem. And | | | {| months after | December. | |Lettuce, Coss | |April |June, July, | |Ditto, cabbage | |---- |and Aug. | |Onions, for keeping | {|Aug. Sep. And |October and | | | {| following months | November. | |Parsley (No. 261) | {|Feb. And through |February & | | | {| the year | March. | |Parsnips (No. 128) | {|October, and |July. | | | {| continue until May| | |Pease (No. 134) |Beg. Or }|June, July, and |August, and | | | mid. Of }| following months | fol. Month. | | | May }| | | |Potatoes (No. 102, &c. ) |March }|May, and through |June, | | | }| the year |May & June. | |Radishes |Begin. Of }|End of March, and |June. | | |March }| following months | | |Ditto, turnip, red and} | |Ditto |June. | |white } | | | | |Ditto, black, Spanish | {|August, and |September. | | | {| following months | | |Small salad (No. 372) | |All the year |May & June. | |Salsify | |July, August |August. | |Scorzonera | |---- |---- | |Sea Kale (No. 124) |Dec. & Jan. |April and May |May. | |Savoury cabbage | {|September, and |November. | | | {| following months | | |Sorrel | |All the year |June & July. | |Spinage, spring | {|March, April, and |June & July. | | | {| following months | | |Ditto, winter | {|Oct. Nov. And |November. | | | {| following months | | |Turnips | {|May, June, and |June & July. | | | {| following months | | |Ditto, tops (No. 132) | {|March, April, and |April and | | | {| May | May. | |Ditto, for salad | |April and May |June and | |Ditto, Welch | |February | July. | +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+

APPENDIX;

COMPRISING

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING

PASTRY, PRESERVES, BREAD, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. &c. 

_Puff Paste. _--(No. 1. )

To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with the handhalf a pound of fresh butter; mix up with half a pint of spring water;knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of an hour; then roll it outthin, lay on it, in small pieces, three quarters of a pound more ofbutter, throw on it a little flour, double it up in folds, and roll itout thin three times, and set it by for an hour in a cold place. 

_Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies. _--(No. 2. )

Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter, break it into small pieces, and wash it well in cold water; rub gentlytogether the butter and flour, and mix it up with the yelk of threeeggs, beat together with a spoon; and nearly a pint of spring-water;roll it out, and double it in folds three times, and it is ready. 

_Tart Paste for Family Pies. _--(No. 3. )

Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound and a quarterof flour, mix it with half a pint of water, and knead it well. 

_Sweet, or short and crisped Tart Paste. _--(No. 4. )

To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter, the yelks of two eggs beat, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mixup together with half a pint of new milk, and knead it well. See No. 30. 

N. B. This crust is frequently iced. 

_Raised Pies. _--(No. 5. )

Put two pounds and a half of flour on the pasteboard; and put on thefire, in a saucepan, three quarters of a pint of water, and half a poundof good lard; when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of theflour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mixing the flourwith it with a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then knead it with yourhands till it becomes stiff: dredge a little flour to prevent itssticking to the board, or you cannot make it look smooth: do not roll itwith the rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the thicknessof a quart pot; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers;put one hand in the middle, and keep the other close on the outside tillyou have worked it either in an oval or a round shape: have your meatready cut, and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork, cut in smallslices; the griskin is the best for pasties: if you use mutton, cut itin very neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you make them; rollout the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet itround the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together with your thumband finger, and then cut it all round with a pair of scissors quiteeven, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them an hour and a half. 

_Paste for boiled Puddings. _--(No. 6. )

Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it one poundand a quarter of flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a pint ofmilk or water, and beat it well with the rolling-pin, to incorporate thesuet with the flour. 

_Paste for stringing Tartlets, &c. _--(No. 7. )

Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour, an ounce of freshbutter, and a little cold water; rub it well between the board and yourhand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings, lay them across your tartlets in anydevice you please, and bake them immediately. 

_Paste for Croquants or Cut Pastry. _--(No. 8. )

To half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loafsugar; mix it well together with yelks of eggs till of a goodstiffness. 

_Venison Pasty. _--(No. 9. )

Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not hung too long;bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inchessquare, and put them into a stew-pan, with three gills of Port wine, twoonions, or a few eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three blades ofmace, about a dozen allspice, and enough veal broth to cover it; put itover a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done; put thetrimmings into another saucepan, cover it with water, and set it on afire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and put them into adeep dish with a little of their liquor, and set it by to cool; then addthe remainder of the liquor to the bones and trimmings, and boil it tillthe pasty is ready; then cover the pasty with paste made like No. 5;ornament the top, and bake it for two hours in a slow oven; and beforeit is sent to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison wasstewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat; some pepper, salt, half agill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little flour and butterto thicken it. 

_Mutton or Veal Pie. _--(No. 10. )

Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest part of thefat of a loin, or best end of a neck of mutton (the former the best), season them, and lay them in a pie dish, with a little water and half agill of mushroom catchup (chopped onion and potatoes, if approved);cover it with paste (No. 2), bake it two hours; when done, lift up thecrust from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil, and pour it into the pie. 

Veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast; but must beparboiled first. 

_Hare Pie. _--(No. 11. )

Take the hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and parboil it fortwo minutes to cleanse it; wash it well, and put it in a stew-pot withsix eschalots chopped, a gill of Port wine, a small quantity of thyme, savoury, sweet marjoram, and parsley, tied in a bunch, four cloves, andhalf a dozen allspice; cover it with veal broth, and stew it till halfdone; pick out the prime pieces, such as the back, legs, &c. (leavingthe remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted); take theparts preserved, and fill them into a dish with some water, and cover itwith paste as No. 2; bake it an hour; strain the gravy from thetrimmings, thicken it a little, and throw in half a gill of Port, thejuice of half a lemon, and pour it into the pie boiling hot; line thebottom of the dish with Hare stuffing (No. 379), or make it intoforcemeat balls. 

Pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner; and as the followingreceipt for Pigeon pie. 

_Savoury Pies, Pasties, and Patties. _--(No. 12. )

The _piquance_ of pies may be regulated _ad libitum_, by sprinkling thearticles with zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455, and see Nos. 457and 459), or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of theforcemeats enumerated in Nos. 373 to 385, and making it into balls; layone ring of these, and another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, roundthe top of the pie; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy. After the pies are baked, pour in through a funnel any of the variousgravies, sauces, &c. : truffles, mushrooms, wine, spices, pickles, &c. Are also added. See also Nos. 396 to 402. 

MEM. These are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite than tosatisfy it. Putting meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the veryworst way of cooking it; it is often baked to rags; and very rarelyindeed does a savoury pie come to table that deserves to be introducedto the stomach. 

_Pigeon or Lark Pie. _--(No. 13. )

Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing, season them withpepper and salt; lay at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of about apound weight, cut into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat outwith a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the yelks of three eggs boiledhard, and a gill of broth or water, and over these a layer of steaks;wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over with puff paste (No. 1), orthe paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2); wash it over with yelkof egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of thepigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven: before itis sent to table make an aperture in the top, and pour in some goodgravy quite hot. 

_Giblet Pie. _--(No. 14. )

Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of goose giblets: cut thelegs in two, the wing and neck into three, and the gizzard into fourpieces; preserve the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold, otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the piewith: then season the whole with black pepper and salt, and put theminto a deep dish; cover it with paste as directed in No. 2, rub it overwith yelk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderateoven: in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skimit free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew-pan, thicken it alittle with flour and butter, or flour and water, season it with pepperand salt, and the juice of half a lemon; add a few drops of browning, strain it through a fine sieve, and when you take the pie from the oven, pour some of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom ofthe dish a moderately thick rump-steak: if you have any cold game orpoultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the above. 

_Rump-Steak Pie. _--(No. 15. )

Cut three pounds of rump-steak (that has been kept till tender) intopieces half as big as your hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, andevery part which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and beatthem with a chopper: chop very fine half a dozen eschalots, and add themto half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed; strew some of the mixture atthe bottom of the dish, then a layer of steak, then some more of themixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroomcatchup, and the same quantity of gravy, or red wine; cover it as in thepreceding receipt, and bake it two hours. 

N. B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately with thesteaks, their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catchup andwine, will be a variety. 

_Chicken Pie. _--(No. 16. )

Parboil, and then cut up neatly two young chickens; dry them; set themover a slow fire for a few minutes; have ready some veal stuffing orforcemeat (No. 374 or No. 375), lay it at the bottom of the dish, andplace in the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed ham;cover it with paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to twohours; when sent to table, add some good gravy, well seasoned, and nottoo thick. 

Duck pie is made in like manner, only substituting the duck stuffing(No. 378), instead of the veal. 

N. B. The above may be put into a raised French crust (see No. 18) andbaked; when done, take off the top, and put a ragoût of sweetbread tothe chickens. 

_Rabbit Pie. _--(No. 17. )

Made in the same way; but make a forcemeat to cover the bottom of thedish, by pounding a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon with the liversof the rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace, some choppedparsley, and an eschalot, thoroughly beaten together; and you may laysome thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of yourrabbits. “This pie will ask two hours baking, ” says Mrs. MaryTillinghast, in page 29 of her 12mo. Vol. Of rare receipts, 1678. 

_Raised French Pie. _--(No. 18. )

Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as directed (No. 5); kneadit well, and into the shape of a ball; press your thumb into the centre, and work it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the mostgeneral), till about five inches high; put it on a sheet of paper, andfill it with coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for it about thesame thickness as the sides; cement its sides with the yelk of egg; cutthe edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger and thumb, yelkof egg it over with a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way fancy maydirect, with the same kind of paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, ina slow oven; and when done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken, rabbit, or any other _entrée_ most convenient. Send it to table with anapkin under. 

_Raised Ham Pie. _--(No. 19. )

Soak a small ham four or five hours; wash and scrape it well; cut offthe knuckle, and boil it for half an hour; then take it up and trim itvery neatly; take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan, with apint of Madeira or sherry, and enough veal stock to cover it. Let itstew for two hours, or till three parts done; take it out and set it ina cold place; then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt, largeenough to receive it; put in the ham, and round it the veal forcemeat;cover and ornament; it will take about an hour and a half to bake in aslow oven: when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, and pour roundthe following sauce, viz. Take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim itfree from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together; afew drops of browning, and some Cayenne pepper. 

P. S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small ham, and hasa good effect cold for a supper. 

_Veal and Ham Pie. _--(No. 20. )

Take two pounds of veal cutlet, cut them in middling-sized pieces, season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw ordressed ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put someforced or sausage meat (No. 374, or No. 375) at the top, with somestewed button mushrooms, and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and agill of water; then proceed as with rump-steak pie. 

N. B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops, and the chine bone taken away. 

_Raised Pork Pie. _--(No. 21. )

Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste (as directed in No. 5), about four inches high; take the rind and chine bone from a loin ofpork, cut it into chops, beat them with a chopper, season them withpepper and salt, and fill your pie; put on the top and close it, andpinch it round the edge; rub it over with yelk of egg, and bake it twohours with a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. Whendone, pour in some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed mustard (ifapproved). 

N. B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an excellent repast fora journey, and will keep for several days. 

_Eel Pie. _--(No. 22. )

Take eels about half a pound each; skin, wash, and trim off the fin witha pair of scissors, cut them into pieces three inches long, season themwith pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving out the heads andtails. Add a gill of water or veal broth, cover it with paste (No. 2), rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in yelk of egg, ornament it withsome of the same paste, bake it an hour; and when done, make a hole inthe centre, and pour in the following sauce through a funnel: thetrimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pepper andsalt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and thickened with flour andwater, strained through a fine sieve: add it boiling hot. 

_Raised Lamb Pies. _--(No. 23. )

Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very nicely, and laythem in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, with an ounce of butter, atea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and some pepper and salt: put them over afire, and turn them and put them to cool; then raise four or five smallpies with paste (as No. 6), about the size of a tea-cup; put some vealforcemeat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out the top aneighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, bake them half anhour, and when done take off the top, and pour in some good brown sauce. 

_Beef-Steak Pudding. _--(No. 24. )

Get rump-steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them intopieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, &c. ; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, likewise somepotatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; rub theinside of a basin or an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it withpaste as directed for boiled puddings (No. 7); season the steaks withpepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, thenanother of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throwing inpart of the chopped onion; add to it half a gill of mushroom catchup, atable-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth;roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water getting in; rinsea clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie upthe pudding; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, andboil it two hours and a half; take it up, remove the cloth, turn itdownwards in a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mould. 

_Vol au Vent. _--(No. 25. )

Roll off tart paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an inch thick:then, with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about the size of thebottom of the dish you intend sending to table), cut out the shape, andlay it on a baking-plate, with paper; rub it over with yelk of egg; rollout good puff paste (No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the samecutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizessmaller, and press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rubthe top with yelk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twentyminutes, of a light brown colour: when done, take out the paste insidethe centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted, fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, rabbit, ragoût of sweetbread, or any other _entrée_ you wish. 

_Oyster Patties. _--(No. 26. )

Roll out puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into squares witha knife, sheet eight or ten patty pans, put upon each a bit of bread thesize of half a walnut; roll out another layer of paste of the samethickness, cut it as above, wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put onthe top, pare them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen timeswith the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yelk of egg, bake themin a hot oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, take a thin sliceoff the top, then, with a small knife or spoon, take out the bread andthe inside paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then parboil twodozen of large oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, andcut them into four, put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butterrolled in flour, half a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon-peel, the oyster liquor, free from sediment, reduced by boiling to one half, some Cayenne pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice; stir itover a fire five minutes, and fill the patties. 

_Lobster Patties. _--(No. 27. )

Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen lobster alreadyboiled; pick the meat from the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put itinto a stew-pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortartill quite smooth, an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, andhalf a gill of veal consommé, Cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonfulof essence of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful offlour and water: stew it five minutes. 

_Veal and Ham Patties. _--(No. 28. )

Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, and three ounces ofham very small; put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolledinto flour, half a gill of cream; half a gill of veal stock; a littlegrated nutmeg and lemon-peel, some Cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonfulof essence of ham and lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time, taking care it does not burn. 

_Chicken and Ham Patties. _--(No. 29. )

Use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls, and proceed asin the last receipt. 

_Ripe Fruit Tarts. _--(No. 30. )

Gooseberries, damsons, morrello cherries, currants mixed withraspberries, plums, green gages, white plums, &c. Should be quite freshpicked, and washed: lay them in the dish with the centre highest, andabout a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart offruit (but if quite ripe they will not require so much); add a littlewater; rub the edges of the dish with yelk of egg; cover it with tartpaste (No. 4), about half an inch thick; press your thumb round the rim, and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make a hole in the sidesbelow the rim; bake it in a moderate-heated oven; and ten minutes beforeit is done, take it out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry. 

_Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry. _--(No. 31. )

Beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a solid froth; laysome on the middle of the pie with a paste-brush; sift over plenty ofpounded sugar, and press it down with the hand; wash out the brush, andsplash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved, and put it inthe oven for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. 

_Apple Pie. _--(No. 32. )

Take eight russetings, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, and cut notsmaller than quarters; place them as close as possible together into apie-dish, with four cloves; rub together in a mortar some lemon-peel, with four ounces of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add some quincejam; cover it with puff paste; bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generallyeaten warm. )

_Apple Tart creamed. _--(No. 33. )

Use green codlings, in preference to any other apple, and proceed as inthe last receipt. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the centre, leaving the edges; when cold, pour on the apple some rich boiledcustard, and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a lightcolour. 

_Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks. _--(No. 34. )

Roll out puff paste (No. 1, ) of a quarter of an inch thick, cut it intopieces, and sheet pans about the size of a crown piece, pare them roundwith a knife, and put a small quantity of apricot, damson, raspberry, strawberry, apple, marmalade, or any other kind of jam (No. 92), in thecentre; take paste (No. 7), and string them crossways; bake them fromsix to ten minutes in a quick oven: they should be of a very light browncolour. 

_French Tart of preserved Fruit. _--(No. 35. )

Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste (No. 4), about aneighth of an inch thick; roll out puff paste (No. 1), half an inchthick, and cut it out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart paste, andlay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim; fill the centre with jam ormarmalade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, bakeit half an hour, and send it to table cold. 

N. B. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on, neatlystrung with paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over after. 

_Obs. _--The most general way of sending tourtes to table, is with acroquante of paste (No. 86), or a caramel of spun sugar (No. 85), putover after it is baked. 

_Small Puffs of preserved Fruit. _--(No. 36. )

Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff paste (No. 1), and cutit into pieces four inches square; lay a small quantity of any kind ofjam on each, double them over, and cut them into square, triangle, or, with a tin cutter, half moons; lay them with paper on a baking-plate;ice them (as at No. 31), bake them about twenty minutes, taking care notto colour the icing. 

_Cranberry Tart. _--(No. 37. )

Take Swedish, American, or Russian cranberries, pick and wash them inseveral waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of half a lemon, aquarter of a pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart ofcranberries. Cover it with puff (No. 1) or tart paste (No. 4), and bakeit three quarters of an hour; if tart paste is used, draw it from theoven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, return it tothe oven, and send it to table cold. 

_Mince Pies. _--(No. 38. )

Sheet with tart paste (No. 4), half a dozen of tin pans of any size youplease; fill them with mince meat (No. 39), and cover with puff paste, aquarter of an inch thick; trim round the edges with a knife, make anaperture at the top with a fork, bake them in a moderate-heated oven, and send them to table hot, first removing the tin. 

N. B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over. 

_Mince Meat. _--(No. 39. )

Two pounds of beef suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds of apple, pared, cored, and minced; three pounds of currants, washed and picked;one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine; one pound of good moistsugar; half a pound of citron, cut into thin slices; one pound ofcandied lemon and orange-peel, cut as ditto; two pounds of ready-dressedroast beef, free from skin and gristle, and chopped fine; two nutmegs, grated; one ounce of salt, one of ground ginger, half an ounce ofcoriander seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of cloves, allground fine; the juice of six lemons, and their rinds grated; half apint of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix the suet, apples, currants, meat-plums, and sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, andstrew in the spice by degrees; mix the sugar, lemon-juice, wine, andbrandy, and pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it well together;set it by in close-covered pans in a cold place: when wanted, stir it upfrom the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity yourequire. 

N. B. The same weight of tripe is frequently substituted for the meat, and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard. 

_Obs. _--The lean side of a buttock, thoroughly roasted, is generallychosen for mince meat. 

_Cheesecakes. _--(No. 40. )

Put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan, set it near the fire, andstir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet: let it stand till it is set (thiswill take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let itremain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curdinto a colander to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and poundit quite smooth; then add four ounces of sugar, pounded and sifted, andthree ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a littlepotting-pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together:beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin, with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ouncesof currants, washed and picked; stir it all well together; have yourtins ready lined with puff paste (No. 1), about a quarter of an inchthick, notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd. Bakethem twenty minutes. 

When you have company, and want a variety, you can make a mould of curdand cream, by putting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead of thecolander: let it stand for six hours, then turn it out very carefully ona dish, and pour over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loafsugar, and a little nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place, will make excellent cheesecakes the next day. 

_Lemon Cheesecakes. _--(No. 41. )

Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two lemons, and mix themwith three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh butter, four ounces ofsifted sugar, a little grated nutmeg and pounded cinnamon, half a gillof cream, and three eggs well beaten; work them with the hand, and fillthe pans, which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste, and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel, cut thin, upon thetop. 

_Orange Cheesecakes. _--(No. 42. )

To be made in the same way, omitting the lemons, and using orangesinstead. 

_Almond Cheesecakes. _--(No. 43. )

Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; letthem lie half an hour in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound themvery fine in a mortar, with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flowerwater, to prevent them from oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound offresh butter; set it in a warm place, and cream it very smooth with thehand, and add it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted loaf sugar, alittle grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and four eggs; rub all welltogether with the pestle; cover a patty-pan with puff paste; fill in themixture; ornament it with slices of candied lemon-peel and almondssplit, and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven. 

_Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste. _--(No. 44. )

Roll out puff paste (No. 1, ) half an inch thick; cut out with a cuttermade for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, octagon, square, diamond, or any other form, (and to be got of most tinmen, ) observing to let thefirst piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending itto table on: the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion, till the last is about the size of a shilling; lay them with paper on abaking-plate, yelk of egg the top, and bake them of a light browncolour: take them from the paper, and when cold put the largest size inthe dish, then a layer of apricot jam; then the next size, a layer ofraspberry jam, and so on, varying the jam between each layer of paste tothe top, on which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a caramel (No. 85) of sugar over it. 

_Brunswick Tourte. _--(No. 45. )

Make a crust as for vol au vent (No. 25); pare and core with a scoopeight or ten golden pippins; put them into a stew-pan, with a gill ofsweet wine, and four ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, asmall stick of cinnamon, and a blade of mace; stew them over a slow firetill the apples are tender; set them by: when cold, place them in thepaste, and pour round them some good custard (No. 53). 

_Blancmange. _--(No. 46. )

Boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with an ounce ofpicked isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and a quarter), the rind ofhalf a lemon, peeled very thin, a little cinnamon, and a blade of mace, and two and a half ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound eight or tenbitter, and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonful ofrose water, and mix them with the milk; strain it through a lawn sieveor napkin into a basin, with half a pint of good cream. Let it standhalf an hour; pour it into another basin, leaving the sediment at thebottom, and when nearly cold fill it into moulds: when wanted, put yourfinger round the mould; pull out the blancmange; set it in the centre ofa dish, and garnish with slices of orange. 

N. B. About half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for the almonds. 

_Orange Jelly. _--(No. 47. )

Boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked isinglass, therind of an orange cut thin, a stick of cinnamon, a few corianders, andthree ounces of loaf-sugar, till the isinglass is dissolved; thensqueeze two Seville oranges or lemons, and enough China oranges to makea pint of juice: mix all together, and strain it through a tamis or lawnsieve into a basin; set it in a cold place for half an hour; pour itinto another basin free from sediment; and when it begins to congeal, fill your mould: when wanted, dip the mould into lukewarm water; turn itout on a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices, andplaced round. 

N. B. A few grains of saffron put in the water will add much to itsappearance. 

_Italian Cream. _--(No. 48. )

Rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon, and scrape it off with aknife into a deep dish or china bowl, and add half a gill of brandy, twoounces and a half of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint ofdouble cream, and beat it up well with a clean whisk; in the meantime, boil an ounce of isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved;strain it to the other ingredients; beat it some time, and fill yourmould; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing receipt. 

N. B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur, raspberry, strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with prepared cochineal, and namedto correspond with the flavour given. 

_Trifle. _--(No. 49. )

Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, the juice of alemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a gill of brandy, and ditto ofLisbon or sweet wine, and a pint and a half of good cream; whisk thewhole well, and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and putit on a sieve; continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip;set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours; then lay in a deepdish six or eight sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of ratafia, twoounces of Jordan almonds blanched and split, some grated nutmeg andlemon-peel, currant jelly and raspberry jam, half a pint of sweet wine, and a little brandy; when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour overabout a pint of custard, made rather thicker than for apple pie; and, when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throw over a fewnonpareil comfits. 

_Whip Syllabub. _--(No. 50. )

Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of cream, half apint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, gratednutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: nearly fill the custard-glasseswith the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip. 

_Chantilly Basket. _--(No. 51. )

Dip into sugar boiled to a caramel (See No. 85) small ratafias, stickthem on a dish in what form you please, then take ratafias one sizelarger, and having dipped them into the sugar, build them together tillabout four or five inches high; make a rim of York drops or drageas ofgum paste, likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia, and set it over thebasket; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time before it iswanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle, and upon thatplenty of good whip. 

_Baked Custard. _--(No. 52. )

Boil in a pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little cinnamon andlemon-peel; sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it apint of cold milk; beat well eight eggs for ten minutes, and add theother ingredients; pour it from one pan into another six or eight times, strain it through a sieve, and let it stand some time; skim off thefroth from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake them immediatelyin a hot oven, give them a good colour; about ten minutes will do them. 

_Boiled Custard. _--(No. 53. )

Boil in a pint of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, andcinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a dozen of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix it with a pintof cream, the yelks of ten eggs, and the whites of six, well beaten;pass it through a hair-sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire tillit begins to thicken, remove it from the fire, and continue to stir ittill nearly cold; add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, fill the cups orglasses, and grate nutmeg over. 

_Almond Custards. _--(No. 54. )

Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six ounces ofsweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; boil a pint of milk as No. 52; sweeten it with two ounces and a half of sugar; rub the almondsthrough a fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the milk to the yelksof eight eggs, and the whites of three well-beaten; stir it over a firetill it is of a good thickness; take it off the fire, and stir it tillnearly cold, to prevent its curdling. 

N. B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of puffpaste put round. 

_Twelfth Cake. _--(No. 55. )

Two pounds of sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, two poundsof butter, eighteen eggs, four pounds of currants, one half pound ofalmonds blanched and chopped, one half pound of citron, one pound ofcandied orange and lemon-peel cut into thin slices, a large nutmeggrated, half an ounce of ground allspice; ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, and corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of brandy. 

Put the butter into a stew-pan, in a warm place, and work it into asmooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the sugar and spice in a pan(or on your paste board) for some time; then break in the eggs bydegrees, and beat it at least twenty minutes; stir in the brandy, andthen the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit, sweetmeats, andalmonds, and mix all together lightly; have ready a hoop cased withpaper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture, smooth it on the top withyour hand, dipped in milk; put the plate on another, with sawdustbetween, to prevent the bottom from colouring too much: bake it in aslow oven[376-*] four hours or more, and when nearly cold, ice it withNo. 84. 

This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen inchesover. 

_Obs. _--If made in cold weather, the eggs should be broken into a pan, and set into another filled with hot water; likewise the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, laid in a warm place, otherwise it may chillthe butter, and cause the cake to be heavy. 

_Bride, or Wedding Cake. _--(No. 56. )

The only difference usually made in these cakes is, the addition of onepound of raisins, stoned and mixed with the other fruit. 

_Plain Pound Cake. _--(No. 57. )

Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of butter, and work it well together withone pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth; beat up nine eggs, and putthem by degrees to the butter, and beat them for twenty minutes; mix inlightly one pound of flour; put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper, on a baking-plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven. 

An ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above, will make what is termed arich seed cake. 

_Plum Pound Cake. _--(No. 58. )

Make a cake as No. 57, and when you have beaten it, mix in lightly halfa pound of currants, two ounces of orange, and two ounces of candiedlemon-peel cut small, and half a nutmeg grated. 

_Common Seed Cake. _--(No. 59. )

Sift two and a half pounds of flour, with half a pound of good Lisbon orloaf sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl; make a cavity in the centre, andpour in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table-spoonful of thickyest; mix the milk and yest with enough flour to make it as thick ascream (this is called setting a sponge); set it by in a warm place forone hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh butter, and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce of caraway-seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness; line a hoop withpaper, well rubbed over with butter; put in the mixture; set it sometime to prove in a stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plateabout an hour, in rather a hot oven; when done, rub the top over with apaste-brush dipped in milk. 

_Rich Yest Cake. _--(No. 60. )

Set a sponge as in the foregoing receipt, with the same proportions offlour, sugar, milk, and yest: when it has lain some time, mix it withthree quarters of a pound of butter oiled, one pound and a quarter ofcurrants, half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine, gratednutmeg, ground allspice and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of each:case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it in a good-heated oven one hour anda half. 

N. B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a twelfth cake. 

_Queen, or Heart Cakes. _--(No. 61. )

One pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one poundand a quarter of flour, two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeggrated. 

Cream the butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the sugar and spice, then put in half the eggs and beat it ten minutes, add the remainder ofthe eggs, and work it ten minutes longer, stir in the flour lightly, andthe currants afterward, then take small tin pans of any shape (heartsthe most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and bake thema few minutes in a hot oven, on a sheet of matted wire, or on abaking-plate; when done, remove them as early as possible from the pans. 

_Queen’s Drops. _--(No. 62. )

Leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt, and add two ouncesmore of currants, and two ounces of candied peel cut small; work it thesame as in the last receipt, and when ready put the measure into abiscuit-funnel, [378-*] and lay them out in drops about the size of halfa crown, on white paper; bake them in a hot oven, and, when nearly cold, take them from the paper. 

_Shrewsbury Cakes. _--(No. 63. )

Rub well together one pound of pounded sugar, one pound of fresh butter, and one pound and a half of sifted flour, mix it into a paste, withhalf a gill of milk or cream, and one egg, let it lie half an hour, rollit out thin, cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, about threeinches over, and bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven. 

_Banbury Cakes. _--(No. 64. )

Set a sponge with two table-spoonfuls of thick yest, a gill of warmmilk, and a pound of flour; when it has worked a little, mix with ithalf a pound of currants, washed and picked, half a pound of candiedorange and lemon peel cut small, one ounce of spice, such as groundcinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nutmeg: mix the whole togetherwith half a pound of honey; roll out puff paste (No. 1, ) a quarter of aninch thick, cut it into rounds with a cutter, about four inches over, lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture; close it roundwith the fingers in the form of an oval; place the join underneath;press it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and bake them on aplate a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour. 

_Bath Buns. _--(No. 65. )

Rub together with the hand one pound of fine flour, and half a pound ofbutter; beat six eggs, and add them to the flour, &c. With atable-spoonful of good yest; mix them all together, with about half atea-cupful of milk; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in sixounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds; mould them into bunswith a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate; throw six or eight carawaycomfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. Thisquantity should make about eighteen. 

_Sponge Biscuits. _--(No. 66. )

Break into a round-bottomed preserving-pan[379-*] nine good-sized eggs, with one pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some grated lemon-peel; set thepan over a very slow fire, and whisk it till quite warm (but not too hotto set the eggs); remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold, which may be a quarter of an hour; then stir in the flour lightly with aspattle; previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as follows:--Wipethem well out with a clean cloth, rub the insides with a brush dipped inbutter, which has been clarified, and sift loaf sugar over; fill theframes with the mixture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them fiveminutes in a brisk oven: when done, take them from the frames, and laythem on a sieve. 

_Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould. _--(No. 67. )

Take nine eggs, their weight of sugar, and six of flour, some gratedlemon, or a few drops of essence of lemon, and half a gill oforange-flower water, work them as in the last receipt; put in theorange-flower water when you take it from the fire; be very careful themould is quite dry; rub it all over the inside with butter; put somepounded sugar round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to getit out of the crevices: tie a slip of paper round the mould; fill itthree parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in a slack oven;when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and take it from the mould, which may be done by shaking it a little. 

_Biscuit Drops. _--(No. 68. )

Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with eight eggsfor twenty minutes; then add a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, andone pound and a quarter of flour: lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate, putthe mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and drop it out on the paper aboutthe size of half a crown; sift sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven. 

_Savoy Biscuits. _--(No. 69. )

To be made as drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and quarter of apound of flour: put it into the biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about thelength and size of your finger, on common shop paper; strew sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven; when cold, wet the backs of the paper witha paste-brush and water: when they have lain some time, take themcarefully off, and place them back to back. 

_Italian Macaroons. _--(No. 70. )

Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanched, pound them quitefine with the whites of four eggs; add two pounds and a half of siftedloaf sugar, and rub them well together with the pestle; put in bydegrees about ten or eleven more whites, working them well as you putthem in; but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness isto bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two morewhites; put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out onwafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small walnut, having readyabout two ounces of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, put threeor four pieces on each, and bake them on wires, or a baking-plate, in aslow oven. 

_Obs. _--Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three daysbefore they are used, by which means they will work much better, andwhere large quantities are used, it is advised to grind them in a millprovided for that purpose. 

_Ratafia Cakes. _--(No. 71. )

To half a pound of blanched bitter, and half a pound of sweet, almonds, put the whites of four eggs; beat them quite fine in a mortar, and stirin two pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted; rub themwell together with the whites (by degrees) of nine eggs (try theirlightness as in the last receipt); lay them out from the biscuit-funnelon cartridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and bake themin a middling-heated oven, of a light brown colour, and take them fromthe papers as soon as cold. 

N. B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles. 

_Almond Sponge Cake. _--(No. 72. )

Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite fine, with thewhites of three eggs; then put in one pound of sifted loaf sugar, somegrated lemon-peel, and the yelks of fifteen eggs--work them welltogether: beat up to a solid froth the whites of twelve eggs, and stirthem into the other ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dryflour: prepare a mould as at No. 67; put in the mixture, and bake it anhour in a slow oven: take it carefully from the mould, and set it on asieve. 

_Ratafia Cake. _--(No. 73. )

To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet, andsubstituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds. 

_Diet Bread Cake. _--(No. 74. )

Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump sugar; haveready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, in a pan; pour in the sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of an hour; then stirin two pounds of sifted flour; case the inside of square tins with whitepaper; fill them three parts full; sift a little sugar over, and bake itin a warm oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds. 

_Orange Gingerbread. _--(No. 75. )

Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it a pound andthree quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of allspice: melt to an oil three quarters of a pound ofbutter; mix the whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours;roll it out with as little flour as possible, about half an inch thick;cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide; mark them in the formof checkers with the back of a knife; put them on a baking-plate about aquarter of an inch apart; rub them over with a brush dipped into theyelk of an egg beat up with a tea-cupful of milk; bake it in a cool ovenabout a quarter of an hour: when done, wash them slightly over again, divide the pieces with a knife (as in baking they will run together). 

_Gingerbread Nuts. _--(No. 76. )

To two pounds of sifted flour, put two pounds of treacle, three quartersof a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of candied orange-peel cutsmall, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, one ounce of groundcaraways, and three quarters of a pound of butter oiled: mix all welltogether, and set it by some time; then roll it out in pieces about thesize of a small walnut; lay them in rows on a baking-plate; dress themflat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes. 

_Plain Buns. _--(No. 77. )

To four pounds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist sugar; make acavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good yest, a pint oflukewarm milk, with enough of the flour to make it the thickness ofcream; cover it over, and let it lie two hours; then melt to an oil (butnot hot) one pound of butter, stir it into the other ingredients, withenough warm milk to make it a soft paste; throw a little flour over, andlet them lie an hour; have ready a baking-platter rubbed over withbutter; mould with the hand the dough into buns, about the size of alarge egg; lay them in rows full three inches apart; set them in a warmplace for half an hour, or till they have risen to double their size;bake them in a hot oven of a good colour, and wash them over with abrush dipped into milk when drawn from the oven. 

_Cross Buns. _--(No. 78. )

To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground allspice, cinnamon, and mace, mixed; and when half proved, press the form of across with a tin mould (made for the purpose) in the centre, and proceedas above. 

_Seed Buns. _--(No. 79. )

Take two pounds of plain bun dough (No. 77), and mix in one ounce ofcaraway seeds; butter the insides of small tart-pans; mould the doughinto buns, and put one in each pan; set them to rise in a warm place;and when sufficiently proved, ice them with the white of an egg beat toa froth, and laid on with a paste-brush; some pounded sugar upon that, and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush: bake them in a warmoven about ten minutes. 

_Plum Buns. _--(No. 80. )

To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of currants, a quarterof a pound of candied orange-peel cut into small pieces, half a nutmeggrated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such as allspice, cinnamon, &c. :mould them into buns; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceedas with plain buns, No. 77. 

_Orgeat. _--(No. 81. )

Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter, almonds, in a marble mortar, with half a gill of orange-flower water to keep themfrom oiling; then mix with them one pint of rose and one pint ofspring-water; rub it through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till thealmonds are quite dry, which will reduce the quantity to about a quart:have ready three pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it to acrack (which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, andthen into cold water; and if you find the sugar to crack in moving yourfinger, it has boiled enough); put in the almonds; boil it one minute, and when cold put it into small bottles close corked; a table-spoonfulof which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the bottlebefore using. 

_Obs. _--If the orgeat is for present use, the almonds may be pounded asabove, and mixed with one quart of water, one quart of milk, a pint ofcapillaire or clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve, andput into decanters for use. 

_Baked Pears. _--(No. 82. )

Take twelve large baking pears; pare and cut them into halves, leavingthe stem about half an inch long; take out the core with the point of aknife, and place them close together in a block-tin saucepan, the insideof which is quite bright, with the cover to fit quite close; put to themthe rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick ofcinnamon, and twenty grains of allspice; cover them with spring-water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water: coverthem up close, and bake them for six hours in a very slow oven: theywill be quite tender, and of a bright colour. 

_Obs. _--Prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring the pears;but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be found to answerbest. 

_To dry Apples. _--(No. 83. )

Take biffins, or orange or lemon-pippins; the former are the best;choose the clearest rinds, and without any blemishes; lay them on cleanstraw on a baking-wire; cover them well with more straw; set them into aslow oven; let them remain for four or five hours; draw them out and rubthem in your hands, and press them very gently, otherwise you will burstthe skins; return them into the oven for about an hour; press themagain; when cold, if they look dry, rub them over with a littleclarified sugar. 

_Obs. _--By being put into the oven four or five times, pressing thembetween each time, they may be brought as flat, and eat as well, as thedried biffins from Norfolk. 

_Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake. _--(No. 84. )

Take one pound of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted through alawn sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease; break in the whitesof six eggs, and as much powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat itwell with a spattle for ten minutes; then squeeze in the juice of alemon, and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cakeyou intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes; then spreadover the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible. If for awedding-cake only, plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament it withgum paste, or fancy articles of any description. 

_Obs. _--A good twelfth cake, not baked too much, and kept in a cool dryplace, will retain its moisture and eat well, if twelve months old. 

_To boil Sugar to Caramel. _--(No. 85. )

Break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined sugar; putin a gill of spring-water; set it on a fire; when it boils skim it quiteclean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree called crack;which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, andletting it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; and if it remainshard, it has attained that degree: squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and let it remain one minute longer on the fire; then set the pan intoanother of cold water: have ready moulds of any shape; rub them overwith sweet oil; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and throw it overthe mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered: make a small handleof caramel, or stick on two or three small gum paste rings, by way ofornament, and place it over small pastry of any description. 

_A Croquante of Paste. _--(No. 86. )

Roll out paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of an inch thick; rub over aplain mould with a little fresh butter; lay on the paste very even, andequally thin on both sides; pare it round the rim; then with a smallpenknife cut out small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, &c. ; or use a small tin cutter of any shape: letit lie to dry some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of alight colour: remove it from the mould, and place it over a tart, or anyother dish of small pastry. 

_Derby or Short Cakes. _--(No. 87. )

Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of siftedflour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and oneegg; mix all together with half a pint of milk: roll it out thin, andcut them into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a cleanbaking-plate, and put them into a middling-heated oven for about fiveminutes. 

_Egg and Ham Patties. _--(No. 88. )

Cut a slice of bread two inches thick, from the most solid part of astale quartern loaf: have ready a tin round cutter, two inches diameter;cut out four or five pieces, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, pressit nearly through the larger pieces, then remove with a small knife thebread from the inner circle: have ready a large stew-pan full of boilinglard; fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry with a cleancloth, and set them by till wanted; then take half a pound of lean ham, mince it small; add to it a gill of good brown sauce; stir it over thefire a few minutes, and put a small quantity of Cayenne pepper andlemon-juice: fill the shapes with the mixture, and lay a poached egg(No. 546) upon each. 

_Damson, or other Plum Cheese. _--(No. 89. )

Take damsons that have been preserved without sugar; pass them through asieve, to take out the skins and stones. To every pound of pulp of fruitput half a pound of loaf sugar, broke small; boil them together till itbecomes quite stiff; pour it into four common-sized dinner plates, rubbed with a little sweet oil; put it into a warm place to dry, andwhen quite firm, take it from the plate, and cut it into any shape youchoose. 

N. B. Damson cheese is generally used in desserts. 

_Barley Sugar. _--(No. 90. )

Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined sugar; boil it to thedegree of _cracked_ (which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon intothe sugar, and then instantly into cold water, and if it appearsbrittle, it is boiled enough); squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of thejuice, and four drops of essence of lemon, and let it boil up once ortwice, and set it by a few minutes: have ready a marble slab, or smoothstone, rubbed over with sweet oil; pour over the sugar; cut it into longstripes with a large pair of scissors; twist it a little, and when cold, keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters. 

_N. B. _ A few drops of essence of ginger, instead of lemon, will makewhat is called ginger barley sugar. 

_Barley Sugar Drops. _--(No. 91. )

To be made as the last receipt. Have ready, by the time the sugar isboiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a smooth layer ofsifted loaf sugar on it; put the boiled sugar into a ladle that has afine lip; pour it out, in drops not larger than a shilling, on to thesifted sugar; when cold, fold them up separately in white paper. 

N. B. Some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted sugar. 

_Raspberry Jam. _--(No. 92. )

Rub fresh-gathered raspberries, taken on a dry day, through a wickersieve; to one pint of the pulp put one pound of loaf sugar, broke small;put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire; when it begins to boil, skim it well, and stir it twenty minutes; put into small pots; cut whitepaper to the size of the top of the pot; dip them in brandy, and putthem over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot. 

Strawberry jam is made the same way, and the scarlets are most properfor that purpose. 

_Apricot, or any Plum Jam. _--(No. 93. )

After taking away the stones from the apricots, and cutting out anyblemishes they may have; put them over a slow fire, in a clean stew-pan, with half a pint of water; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve:to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar; put it into apreserving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, andthrow in the kernels of the apricots, and half an ounce of bitteralmonds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, and stirring itall the time; remove it from the fire, and fill it into pots, and coverthem as at No. 92. 

N. B. Green gages or plums may be done in the same way, omitting thekernels or almonds. 

_Lemon Chips. _--(No. 94. )

Take large smooth-rinded Malaga lemons; race or cut off their peel intochips with a small knife (this will require some practice to do itproperly); throw them into salt and water till next day; have ready apan of boiling water, throw them in and boil them tender. Drain themwell: after having lain some time in water to cool, put them in anearthen pan, pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them, andthen let them lie two days; then strain the syrup, put more sugar, andreduce it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick; put in the chips, and simmer them a few minutes, and set them by for two days: repeat itonce more; let them be two days longer, and they will be fit to candy, which must be done as follows: take four pints of clarified sugar, which will be sufficient for six pounds of chips, boil it to the degreeof _blown_ (which may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, and blowing strongly through the holes of it; if little bladders appear, it has attained that degree); and when the chips are thoroughly drainedand wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the syrup, stirring them aboutwith the skimmer till you see the sugar become white; then take them outwith two forks; shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them intoa stove, or in a warm place to dry. 

N. B. Orange chips are done in the same way. 

_Dried Cherries. _--(No. 95. )

Take large Kentish cherries, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and takeout the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for a pen: to three pounds ofwhich take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar--(see No. 475, ) boilit to the degree of blown (for which see last receipt); put in thecherries, give them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till thenext day; then strain the syrup, add more sugar, and boil it of a goodconsistence; put the cherries in, and boil them five minutes, and setthem by another day: repeat the boiling two more days, and when wanted, drain them some time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, ornearly cold oven. 

_Green Gages preserved in Syrup. _--(No. 96. )

Take the gages when nearly ripe; cut the stalks about half an inch fromthe fruit; put them into cold water, with a lump of alum about the sizeof a walnut; and set them on a slow fire till they come to a simmer:take them from the fire, and put them into cold water; drain, and packthem close into a preserving-pan; pour over them enough clarified sugarto cover them; simmer them two or three minutes; set them by in anearthen pan till next day, when drain the gages, and boil the syrup withmore sugar, till quite thick; put in the gages, and simmer them threeminutes more, and repeat it for two days; then boil clarified sugar to ablow, as at No. 94, place the gages into glasses, and pour the syrupover, and, when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather; andshould you want any for drying, drain and dry them on a wire sieve in astove or slow oven. 

Apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way. 

_To preserve Ginger. _--(No. 97. )

Take green ginger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife; throw it into apan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it white; when you havesufficient, boil it till tender, changing the water three times; eachtime put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of theginger; when tender, throw it into cold water: for seven pounds ofginger, clarify eight pounds of refined sugar, see No. 475; when cold, drain the ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of thesugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days; then pour the syrupfrom the ginger to the remainder of the sugar; boil it some time, andwhen cold, pour it on the ginger again, and set it by three days atleast. Then take the syrup from the ginger; boil it, and put it hot overthe ginger; proceed in this way till you find the sugar has entered theginger, boiling the syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises eachtime, until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger. 

_Obs. _--If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the gingerwill shrink, and not take the sugar. 

N. B. When green ginger is not to be procured, take large races ofJamaica ginger boiled several times in water till tender, pare neatly, and proceed as above. 

_To preserve Cucumbers. _--(No. 98. )

Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them down and take outall the seeds; lay them in salt and water that will bear an egg, threedays; set them on a fire with cold water, and a small lump of alum, andboil them a few minutes, or till tender; drain them, and pour on them athin syrup; let them lie two days; boil the syrup again, and put it overthe cucumbers; repeat it twice more; then have ready some freshclarified sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94); put in the cucumbers, and simmer it five minutes; set it by till next day; boil the syrup andcucumbers again, and set them in glasses for use. 

_Preserved Fruit, without Sugar. _--(No. 99. )

Take damsons when not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and put them intowide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not to put in any but what arewhole, and without blemish; shake them well down (otherwise the bottleswill not be half full when done); stop the bottles with new soft corks, not too tight; set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or fivehours; the slower they are done the better; when they begin to shrinkin the bottles, it is a sure sign that the fruit is thoroughly warm:take them out, and before they are cold, drive in the corks quite tight;set them in a bottle-rack or basket, with the mouth downwards, and theywill keep good several years. 

Green gooseberries, morello cherries, currants, green gages, or bullace, may be done the same way. 

_Obs. _--If the corks are good, and fit well, there will be no occasionfor cementing them; but should bungs be used, it will be necessary. 

_Bread. _--(No. 100. )

Put a quartern of flour into a large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls ofsalt; make a hole in the middle; then put in a basin fourtable-spoonfuls, of good yest; stir in a pint of milk, lukewarm; put itin the hole of the flour; stir it just to make it of a thin batter; thenstrew a little flour over the top; then set it on one side of the fire, and cover it over: let it stand till the next morning; then make it intodough; add half a pint more of warm milk; knead it for ten minutes, andthen set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half; thenknead it again, and it is ready either for loaves or bricks: bake themfrom one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size. 

_French Bread and Rolls. _--(No. 100*. )

Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint ofsmall-beer yest; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter; putit into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen ashigh as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half anounce of salt, --mix them well together;--rub into a little flour twoounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for yourbread; let it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be readyto make into rolls, &c. : let them stand till they have risen, and bakethem in a quick oven. 

SALLY LUNN. --_Tea Cakes. _--(No. 101. )

Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thicksmall-beer yest; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it asthick as batter, --cover it over, and let it stand till it has risen ashigh as it will, _i. E. _ about two hours: add two ounces of lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk, [391-*] a quarter of apound of butter rubbed into your flour very fine; then make your doughthe same as for French rolls, &c. ; and let it stand half an hour; thenmake up your cakes, and put them on tins: when they have stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven. 

Care should be taken never to put your yest to water or milk too hot, ortoo cold, as either extreme will destroy the fermentation. In summer itshould be lukewarm, in winter a little warmer, and in very cold weather, warmer still. 

When it has first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not hurt tostand an hour. 

_Muffins. _--(No. 102. )

Take one pint of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thicksmall-beer yest; strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour tomake it like a batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm placeuntil it has risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and oneounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together:then add sufficient flour to make it into dough, cover it over, and letit stand half an hour; then work it up again, and break it into smallpieces: roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter ofan hour; then bake them. 

_Crumpets. _--(No. 103. )

The same: instead of making the mixture into dough, add only sufficientflour to make a thick batter, and when it has stood a quarter of an hourit will be ready to bake. 

Muffins and crumpets bake best on a stove with an iron plate fixed onthe top; but they will also bake in a frying-pan, taking care the fireis not too fierce, and turning them when lightly browned. 

_Yorkshire Cakes. _--(No. 104. )

Take a pint and a half of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint ofthick small-beer yest; mix them well together in a pan with sufficientflour to make a thick batter; let it stand in a warm place covered overuntil it has risen as high as it will; rub six ounces of butter intosome flour till it is quite fine; then break three eggs into your panwith the flour and butter; mix them well together; then add sufficientflour to make it into a dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour;then work it up-again, and break it into pieces about the size of anegg, or larger, as you may fancy; roll them round and smooth with yourhand, and put them on tins, and let them stand covered over with a lightpiece of flannel. 

FOOTNOTES:

[376-*] The goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being wellbaked; great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heatof the oven: be sure to have it of a good sound heat at first, when, after its being well cleaned out, may be baked such articles as requirea hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in awell-heated or moderate oven; and, lastly, those in a slow soaking orcool one. With a little care the above degrees may soon be known. 

In making butter cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too much attentioncannot be paid to have the butter well creamed; for should it be madetoo warm, it would, cause the mixture to be the same, and when put tobake, the fruit, sweetmeats, &c. Would, in that event, fall to thebottom. 

Yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they willprove but little afterward. 

In making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used, the differentutensils should be kept free from all kinds of grease, or it is next toimpossible to have good ones. 

In buttering the insides of cake-moulds, the butter should be nicelyclarified, and when nearly cold, laid on quite smooth, with a smallbrush kept for that purpose. 

Sugar and flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recommended forthe sugar. The old way of beating the yelks and whites of eggs separate(except in very few cases), is not only useless, but a waste of time. They should be well incorporated with the other ingredients, and, insome instances, they cannot be beaten too much. 

[378-*] Take fine brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone, about five inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bottom, andtie in a small pipe of a tapering form, about two inches long; and thebore must be large or small, according to the size of the biscuits orcakes to be made. When the various mixtures are put in, lay the pipeclose to the paper, and press it out in rows. 

Some use a bullock’s bladder for the purpose. 

[379-*] A wide-mouthed earthen pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on afire, will be a good substitute. 

[391-*] If you do not mind the expense, the cake will be much lighterif, instead of the milk, you put four eggs. 

OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES. 

The quality of the various articles employed in the composition ofpuddings and pies varies so much, that two puddings, made exactlyaccording to the same receipt, will be so different[392-*] one wouldhardly suppose they were made by the same person, and certainly not withprecisely the same quantities of the (apparently) same ingredients. Flour fresh ground, pure new milk, fresh laid eggs, fresh butter, freshsuet, &c. Will make a very different composition, than when kept tilleach article is half spoiled. 

Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool place in the cloth theyare boiled in, will keep good some months; when wanted, take them out ofthe cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmedthrough, they are ready. 

MEM. --In composing these receipts, the quantities of eggs, butter, &c. Are considerably less than are ordered in other cookery books; but quitesufficient for the purpose of making the puddings light andwholesome;--we have diminished the expense, without impoverishing thepreparations; and the rational epicure will be as well pleased with themas the rational economist. 

Milk, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quantity of creamit will throw up, depending on the material with which the cow is fed. The cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most cream, which varies fifteen or twenty per cent. 

Eggs vary considerably in size; in the following receipts we mean thefull-sized hen’s egg; if you have only pullet’s eggs, use two for one. Break eggs one by one into a basin, and not all into the bowl together;because then, if you meet with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest:strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles. 

N. B. To preserve eggs for twelve months, see N. B. To No. 547. Snow, andsmall beer, have been recommended by some economists as admirablesubstitutes for eggs; they will no more answer this purpose than assubstitutes for sugar or brandy. 

Flour, according to that champion against adulteration, Mr. Accum, varies in quality as much as any thing. 

Butter also varies much in quality. Salt butter may be washed from thesalt, and then it will make very good pastry. 

Lard varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When you purchaseit, have the bladder cut, and ascertain that it be sweet and good. 

Suet. Beef is the best, then mutton and veal; when this is used in veryhot weather, while you chop it, dredge it lightly with a little flour. 

Beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for which suet isemployed. 

Drippings, especially from beef, when very clean and nice, arefrequently used for kitchen crusts and pies, and for such purposes are asatisfactory substitute for butter, lard, &c. To clean and preservedrippings, see No. 83. 

Currants, previous to putting them into the pudding, should be plumped:this is done by pouring some boiling water upon them: wash them well, and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire, pick them cleanfrom the stones;--this not only makes them look better, but cleansesthem from all dirt. 

Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon-peel, citron, and preserves of all kinds, fresh fruits, gooseberries, currants, plums, damsons, &c. Are added to batter and suet puddings, or enclosed in thecrust ordered for apple dumplings, and make all the various puddingscalled by those names. 

Batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps; to ensurethis, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the remainder bydegrees, and then the other ingredients. 

If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve; this will takeout all lumps effectually. 

Batter puddings should be tied up tight: if boiled in a mould, butter itfirst; if baked, also butter the pan. 

Be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding; set your stew-panon a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all thetime;--if set upon the fire, the pudding often burns. 

Be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly sweet andclean; wash it without any soap, unless very greasy; then rinse itthoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip itin boiling water; squeeze it dry, and dredge it with flour. 

If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every now andthen to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan; if in amould, this care is not so much required, but keep plenty of water inthe saucepan. 

When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dipped in a basinof cold water, before you untie the pudding-cloth, as that will preventit from sticking; but when boiled in a mould, if it is well buttered, they will turn out without. Custard or bread puddings require to standfive minutes before they are turned out. They should always be boiled ina mould or cups. 

Keep your paste-board, rolling-pin, cutters, and tins very clean: theleast dust on the tins and cutters, or the least hard paste on therolling-pin, will spoil the whole of your labour. 

Things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any otherpurpose; be very careful that your flour is dried at the fire before youuse it, for puff paste or cakes; if damp it will make them heavy. 

In using butter for puff paste, you should take the greatest care topreviously work it well on the paste-board or slab, to get out all thewater and buttermilk, which very often remains in; when you have workedit well with a clean knife, dab it over with a soft cloth, and it isthen ready to lay on your paste; do not make your paste over stiffbefore you put in your butter. 

For those who do not understand making puff paste, it is by far the bestway to work the butter in at two separate times, divide it in half, andbreak the half in little bits, and cover your paste all over: dredge itlightly with flour, then fold it over each side and ends, roll it outquite thin, and then put in the rest of the butter, fold it, and roll itagain. Remember always to roll puff paste from you. The best made paste, if not properly baked, will not do the cook any credit. 

Those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking puff paste, fruit pies, &c. Puff paste is often spoiled by baking it after fruitpies, in an iron oven. This may be easily avoided, by putting two orthree bricks that are quite even into the oven before it is first set toget hot. This will not only prevent the syrup from boiling put of thepies, but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen andhouse, and almost answers the same purpose as a brick oven. 

_College Puddings. _--(No. 105. )

Beat four eggs, yelks and whites together, in a quart basin, with twoounces of flour, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, and three ounces ofsugar; pounded loaf sugar is best. Beat it into a smooth batter; thenadd six ounces of suet, chopped fine, six of currants, well washed andpicked; mix it all well together; a glass of brandy or white wine willimprove it. These puddings are generally fried in butter or lard; butthey are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans; twenty minutes willbake them: if fried, fry them till they are of a nice light brown, andwhen fried, roll them in a little flour. You may add one ounce of orangeor citron, minced very fine; when you bake them, add one more egg, ortwo spoonfuls of milk. Serve them up with white wine sauce. 

_Rice Puddings baked, or boiled. _--(No. 106. )

Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice, put it in aquart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water, set it on the fire, and let it boil five minutes; pour away the water, and put in one quartof milk, a roll of lemon peel, and a bit of cinnamon; let it boil gentlytill the rice is quite tender; it will take at least one hour and aquarter; be careful to stir it every five minutes; take it off the fire, and stir in an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat up three eggson a plate, a salt-spoonful of nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it intothe pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth; line a pie-dish bigenough to hold it with puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in yourpudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour: this will be a nice firmpudding. 

If you like it to eat more like custard, add one more egg, and half apint more milk; it will be better a little thinner when boiled; one hourwill boil it. If you like it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups, and either bake or boil them, half an hour will do either: you may varythe pudding by putting in candied lemon or orange-peel, minced veryfine, or dried cherries, or three ounces of currants, or raisins, orapples minced fine. 

If the puddings are baked or boiled, serve them with white-wine sauce, or butter and sugar. 

_Ground Rice Pudding. _--(No. 107. )

Put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan, and by degrees stir in apint and a half of milk; set it on the fire, with a roll of lemon and abit of cinnamon; keep stirring it till it boils; beat it to a smoothbatter; then set it on the trivet, where it will simmer gently for aquarter of an hour; then beat three eggs on a plate, stir them into thepudding with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg, take out thelemon-peel and cinnamon, stir it all well together, line a pie-dish withthin puff paste (No. 1 of receipts for pastry), big enough to hold it, or butter the dish well, and bake it half an hour; if boiled, it willtake one hour in a mould well buttered; three ounces of currants may beadded. 

_Rice Snow Balls. _--(No. 108. )

Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it on in a saucepanwith plenty of water; when it boils let it boil ten minutes, drain it ona sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six apples, weighing twoounces and a half each. Divide the rice into six parcels, in separatecloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour; serveit with sugar and butter, or wine sauce. 

_Rice Blancmange. _--(No. 109. )

Put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possible, till italmost bursts; then add half a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boilit till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole time it is on thefire, that it may not burn; dip a shape in cold water, and do not dryit; put in the rice, and let it stand until quite cold, when it willcome easily out of the shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eatenwith cream or custard, and preserved fruits; raspberries are best. Itshould be made the day before it is wanted, that it may get firm. 

This blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with spices, lemon-peel, &c. , and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, add it with the milk, andtake out the lemon-peel before you put in the mould. 

_Save-all Pudding. _--(No. 110. )

Put any scraps of bread into a clean saucepan; to about a pound, put apint of milk; set it on the trivet till it boils; beat it up quitesmooth; then break in three eggs, three ounces of sugar, with a littlenutmeg, ginger, or allspice, and stir it all well together. Butter adish big enough to hold it, put in the pudding, and have ready twoounces of suet chopped very fine, strew it over the top of the pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour; four ounces of currants willmake it much better. 

_Batter Pudding, baked or boiled. _--(No. 111. )

Break three eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie on a sixpence;beat them well together, and then add four ounces of flour; beat it intoa smooth batter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk: have yoursaucepan ready boiling, and butter an earthen mould well, put thepudding in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it onehour and a quarter. Or, put it in a dish that you have well buttered, and bake it three quarters of an hour. 

Currants washed and picked clean, or raisins stoned, are good in thispudding, and it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf sugar, and alittle nutmeg and ginger without the fruit, --it is very good that way;serve it with wine sauce. 

_Apple Pudding boiled. _--(No. 112. )

Chop four ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping; but the suet makes the best and lightest crust; put it onthe paste-board, with eight ounces of flour, and a salt-spoonful ofsalt, mix it well together with your hands, and then put it all of aheap, and make a hole in the middle; break one egg in it, stir it welltogether with your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as willmake it of a stiff paste: roll it out two or three times, with therolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces ofapples. It will look neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, thanwhen boiled in a pudding-cloth, well floured; boil it an hour and threequarters: but the surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan, with a wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Somepeople like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel, and sweeten it withtwo ounces of sugar. 

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cherries, damsons, and variousplums and fruits, are made into puddings with the same crust directedfor apple puddings. 

_Apple Dumplings. _--(No. 113. )

Make paste the same as for apple pudding, divide it into as many piecesas you want dumplings, peel the apples and core them, then roll out yourpaste large enough, and put in the apples; close it all round, and tiethem in pudding-cloths very tight; one hour will boil them: and when youtake them up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup thesize of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn outwithout breaking. 

_Suet Pudding or Dumplings. _--(No. 114. )

Chop six ounces of suet very fine: put it in a basin with six ounces offlour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt; stir itall well together: beat two eggs on a plate, add to them sixtable-spoonfuls of milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and stir itall well together; divide it into six dumplings, and tie them separate, previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour. 

This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The above willmake a good pudding, boiled in an earthenware mould, with the additionof one more egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of suet. Boil it twohours. 

N. B. The most economical way of making suet dumplings, is to boil themwithout a cloth in a pot with beef or mutton; no eggs are then wanted, and the dumplings are quite as light without: roll them in flour beforeyou put them into the pot; add six ounces of currants, washed andpicked, and you have currant pudding: or divided into six parts, currantdumplings; a little sugar will improve them. 

_Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake. _--(No. 115. )

Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of potatoes: beat them up intoa smooth batter, with about three quarters of a pint of milk, two ouncesof moist sugar, and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it about threequarters of an hour. Three ounces of currants or raisins may be added. Leave out the milk, and add three ounces of butter, --it will make a verynice cake. 

FOOTNOTES:

[392-*] An old gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on puddings, toldus, it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good, till she made the following rule:--“If the pudding was good, she let thecook have the remainder of it; if it was not, she gave it to herlapdog;” but as soon as this resolution was known, poor little Bow-wowseldom got the sweet treat after. 

OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. 

We are not fond of pickles: these sponges of vinegar are often veryindigestible, especially in the crisp state in which they are mostadmired. The Indian fashion of pounding pickles is an excellent one: werecommend those who have any regard for their stomach, yet still wish toindulge their tongue, instead of eating pickles, which are reallymerely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, &c. To use the flavoured vinegars; such as burnet (No. 399), horseradish(No. 399*), tarragon (No. 396), mint (No. 397), cress (Nos. 397*, 401, 403, 405*, 453, 457), &c. ; by combinations of these, a relish may easilybe composed, exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater. 

The pickle made to preserve cucumbers, &c. Is generally so stronglyimpregnated with garlic, mustard, and spice, &c. That the originalflavour of the vegetables is quite overpowered; and if the eater shutshis eyes, his lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he ismunching an onion or a cucumber, &c. , and nothing can be more absurd, than to pickle plums, peaches, apricots, currants, grapes, &c. 

The strongest vinegar must be used for pickling: it must not be boiledor the strength of the vinegar and spices will be evaporated. Byparboiling the pickles in brine, they will be ready in much less timethan they are when done in the usual manner, of soaking them in coldsalt and water for six or eight days. When taken out of the hot brine, let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle. 

To assist the preservation of pickles, a portion of salt is added; andfor the same purpose, and to give flavour, long pepper, black pepper, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, garlic, eschalots, mustard, horseradish, and capsicum. 

The following is the best method of preparing the pickle, as cheap asany, and requires less care than any other way. 

Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices; put them into astone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar, stop the jar closelywith a bung, cover that with a bladder soaked with pickle, set it on atrivet by the side of the fire for three days, well shaking it up atleast three times in the day; the pickle should be at least three inchesabove the pickles. The jar being well closed, and the infusion beingmade with a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation. 

To enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to imbibe theflavour of the pickle they are immersed in, previously to pouring it onthem, run a larding-pin through them in several places. 

The spices, &c. Commonly used, are those mentioned in the receipt forpickling walnuts; which is also an excellent savoury sauce for coldmeats. 

The flavour may be varied _ad infinitum_ by adding celery, cress-seed, or curry powder (No. 455), or by taking for the liquor any of theflavoured vinegars, &c. We have enumerated above, and see the receiptsbetween Nos. 395 and 421. 

Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed earthenware, orglass jars, which are preferable, as you can, without opening them, observe whether they want filling up: they must be very carefullystopped with well-fitted bungs, and tied over as closely as possiblewith a bladder wetted with the pickle; and if to be preserved a longtime, after that is dry, it must be dipped in bottle-cement; see page127. 

When the pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a little freshspice. 

To walnut liquor may be added a few anchovies and eschalots: let itstand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus you may furnish yourtable with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for hashes, made dishes, fish, &c. At very small cost; see No. 439. 

Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articlespickled, which should be covered with pickle at least two inches abovetheir surface; the liquor wastes, and all of the articles pickled, thatare not covered, are soon spoiled. 

When they have been done about a week, open the jars, and fill them upwith pickle. 

Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take them out with. 

If you wish to have gherkins, &c. Very green, this may be easilyaccomplished by keeping them in vinegar, sufficiently hot, till theybecome so. 

If you wish cauliflowers, onions, &c. To be white, use distilled vinegarfor them. 

To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the acidupon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare pickles, thewhole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed stone jars. 

N. B. The maxim of “open your mouth, and shut your eyes, ” cannot bebetter applied than to pickles; and the only direction we have to recordfor the improvement of their complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith, “If their colour does not please you, send ’em to Hammersmith, that’sthe way to Turnham Green. ”

Commencing the list with walnuts, I must take this opportunity ofimpressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching thedue season; for of all the variety of articles in this department tofurnish the well-regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, forfrequently after the first week that walnuts come in season, they becomehard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one;therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensablynecessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear atmarket; should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to thedisappointment of finding, six months hence, when you go to yourpickle-jar, expecting a fine relish for your chops, &c. To find the nutsincased in a shell, which defies both teeth and steel. 

Nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of July. 

Garlic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas. 

Eschalots, ditto. 

Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had, by the middle ofJuly, and for a month after. 

Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. 

Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. 

Melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of July, and for a monthafter. 

Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July, and following month. 

Chilies, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 404 and 405*, and No. 406. 

Love apples, or tomatas, end of July, and throughout August. See No. 443. 

Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August. 

Artichokes, for pickling, July and August. 

Jerusalem artichokes, for pickling, July and August, and for threemonths after. 

Radish pods, for pickling, July. 

French beans, for pickling, July. 

Mushrooms, for pickling and catchup, September. See No. 439. 

Red cabbage, August. 

White cabbage, September and October. 

Samphire, August. 

Horseradish, November and December. 

_Walnuts. _--(No. 116. )

Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of apound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak fora week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready foreating, run a larding-pin through them in half a dozen places--this willallow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and ofbetter flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put theminto a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put themon a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them standin the air till they turn black--this may take a couple of days; putthem into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three partswith the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle. 

To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper, one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce ofallspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. Put these into a stone jar;cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather, and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to thewalnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle, leather, &c. 

_Gherkins. _--(No. 117. )

Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crudehalf-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. Putthem into (unglazed) stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt andwater, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; coverthem down; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three daystill they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover themwith hot vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot tillthey become green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off thevinegar, having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c. , thesame as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out theeschalots); cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read theobservations on pickles, p. 487. 

_Obs. _--The vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellentsalad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, superlative cucumbervinegar. 

_French Beans--Nasturtiums, &c. _--(No. 118. )

When young, and most other small green vegetables, may be pickled thesame way as gherkins. 

_Beet Roots. _--(No. 119. )

Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from anhour and a half to two and a half); then take them out, and when alittle cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inchthick. Have ready a pickle for it, made by adding to each a quart ofvinegar an ounce of ground black pepper, half an ounce of gingerpounded, same of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices; and youmay warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne;put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them steepthree days on a trivet by the side of the fire; then, when cold, pourthe clear liquor on the beet-root, which have previously arranged in ajar. 

_Red Cabbage. _--(No. 120. )

Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter it, takeout the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, sprinkle them withsalt, let them remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put them into ajar, and cover them with the pickle for beet roots. 

_Onions. _--(No. 121. )

The small round silver button onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make avery nice pickle. Take off their top coats, have ready a stew-pan, threeparts filled with boiling water, into which put as many onions as willcover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately take them up witha spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, andcover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: whenthey are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same ofblack pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, keeping it well closed; when cold, bung them down tight, and cover themwith bladder wetted with the pickle and leather. 

_Cauliflowers or Broccoli. _--(No. 122. )

Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leavesand stalks. 

Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion of a quarterof a pound of salt to a quart of water; throw in the cauliflower, andlet it heat gradually; when it boils take it up with a spoon full ofholes, and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire, fortwenty-four hours at least; when quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with the pickle we havedirected for beet roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces ofthe curry powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by theside of the fire. 

Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above. 

_Indian or mixed Pickles--Mango or Piccalilli. _--(No. 123. )

The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of currypowder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic. 

The following will be found something like the real mango pickle, especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of thestrongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same offlour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of saladoil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (whenskinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces ofgarlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and twodrachms of Cayenne pepper. 

Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wettedwith the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire duringthree days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready toreceive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middlesufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds;then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, andfill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind themelon round with packthread. 

Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner. 

Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango. 

The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting thecapsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg;taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun, on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put intothe pickle. 

Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts. 

It will keep several years. 

_Obs. _--To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity ofmustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient inour salad sauces. 

HOUSEKEEPERS’ MANUAL. 

VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS. 

_To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn. _

Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve the spiritfor twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree. 

_To clean Plate. _

_First. _--Take care that your plate is quite free from grease. 

_Second. _--Take some whitening mixed with water, and a sponge, rub itwell on the plate, which will take the tarnish off; if it is very bad, repeat the whitening and water several times, making use of a brush, nottoo hard, to clean the intricate parts. 

_Third. _--Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to about thethickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather (which should bekept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, which, with the addition ofa little “Elbow Grease, ” will, in a short time, produce a most beautifulpolish. 

N. B. --The rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers. 

_Obs. _--The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean theirplate, and was given to me by a respectable tradesman. 

_The common Method of cleaning Plate. _

First wash it well with soap and warm water; when perfectly dry, mixtogether a little whitening and sweet oil, so as to make a soft paste;then take a piece of flannel, rub it on the plate; then with a leather, and plenty of dry whitening, rub it clean off again; then, with a cleanleather and a brush, finish it. 

_Varnish for Oil Paintings. _

According to the number of your pictures, take the whites of the samenumber of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy, the sizeof a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy;beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take theclear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, andvarnish over your pictures with it. 

This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed offwhen your pictures want cleaning again. 

_Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings. _

Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old; it mustneither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after havingblown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned, by the means of agood pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust inthe hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yardat each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completelycleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping strokedownwards, always commencing each successive course a little higher thanthe upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. Thisoperation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paperlook almost equal to new. 

Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, norto attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal way. The dirty part ofthe bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed assoon as it may become necessary. 

_To make_ WOODEN _Stairs have the appearance of_ STONE. 

Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with strongdrying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand. 

It ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose sand is to beswept off. The painting and sanding is to be repeated, and when dry, thesurface is to be done over with pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which maybe boiled in an old saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not toothick, otherwise it will be apt to scale off. 

A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is the commonproportion to half a lump of whiting. 

The pipe-clay and whiting is generally; applied once a week, but thatmight be done only as occasion requires. 

_French Polish. _

Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce ofgum mastic; pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully, and poundthem in a mortar quite fine; put them into a bottle, and add to them aquartern (old measure) of strong spirit of wine; cork it down and put itin a warm place; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved, which will be in about twenty-four hours. 

Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no _grease_ is on thefurniture, as _grease_ would prevent its receiving the polish. If thefurniture has been previously cleaned with bees’-wax or oil, it must begot off by scraping, which is the best way, but difficult to those whodo not perfectly understand it, because if you are not very careful, youmay scratch the surface, and create more expense than a workman wouldcharge to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring wellwith sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glasspaper, being careful to do it with the grain of the wood. To apply thepolish, you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted, and tied roundquite tight, and left even at one end, which should be covered with apiece of fine linen cloth; then pour a little of the polish on thefurniture, and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain ofthe wood, and begins to look quite smooth; then take a soft fine cloth, or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing lightlyuntil the polish is complete, which will take two or three hours. Itwill greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire. 

If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little sweet oilrubbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will greatly heighten it. If any part of the furniture has carving about it, where it will beimpossible to polish, it must be done with mastic varnish, and a camel’shair brush, after the rest is finished. 

When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered with a littlespirit of wine. 

_Polish for Dining Tables_, Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus:--put a little in themiddle of a table, and then with a piece of linen (never use woollen)cloth rub it well all over the table; then take another piece of linen, and rub it for ten minutes, then rub it till quite dry with anothercloth. This must be done every day for several months, when you willfind your mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, unattainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French polish;and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, the hottest disheswill make no impression upon it: and when once this polish is produced, it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about tenminutes twice in a week, to preserve it in the highest perfection; whichnever fails to please your employers; and remember, that to pleaseothers is always the surest way to profit yourself. 

If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take some FURNITUREPASTE. 

_To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, &c. _

The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and the variousungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens, drains, &c. , are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the secondtable, but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putridfevers, &c. &c. 

It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple apparatus hasbeen contrived for carrying off the waste water, &c. From sinks, whichat the same time effectually prevents any air returning back fromthence, or from any drain connected therewith. This is known by the nameof Stink Trap, and costs about five shillings. 

No kitchen sink should be without it. 

_To prevent Moths. _

In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a small cane orelastic stick, then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur toohard, and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps; then putyour furs in this state in boxes well closed. 

When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and exposethem for twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell ofthe camphor. 

If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor an equalquantity of black pepper in powder. 

_Paste. _

To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of coldwater, stir it well together, and add two more table-spoonfuls of water;set it over the fire and give it a boil, stirring it all the time, or itwill burn at the bottom of the saucepan. 

OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING. 

 “‘Have you learned to carve?’ for it is ridiculous not to carve well. 

 “A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell you that he cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as easy. ”--Lord CHESTERFIELD’S _211th Letter_. 

Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with hospitalityand attention, and this attention is what young people have to learn. Experience will teach them in time, but till they acquire it, they willappear ungraceful and awkward. 

Although the _art of carving_ is one of the most necessaryaccomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to those who havelong been accustomed to it; a more useful or acceptable present cannotbe offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated toteach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in thismaterial part of the duties of the table. 

Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet, beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices; and cut up thingsnot only carelessly, but wastefully, until they learn the pleasure ofpaying butchers’ and poulterers’ bills on their own account. 

Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with the help of thefollowing instructions, soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance;taking care also to observe, as occasion may offer, the manner in whicha skilful operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placedbefore him. 

It has been said, that you may judge of a person’s character by hishandwriting; you may judge of his conscience by his carving. 

Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fairwriting: let me see how a gentleman carves at another person’s table, especially how he helps himself, and I will presently tell you how farhe is of Pope’s opinion, that

 “True self-love and social are the same. ”

The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked andmore disgusting manner than in the use they excite a man to make of hisknife and fork in carving for himself, especially when not at his owncost. 

Some keen observer of human nature has said, “Would you know a man’sreal disposition, ask him to dinner, and give him plenty to drink. ”

“The Oracle” says, “invite the gentleman to dinner, certainly, and sethim to carving. ” The gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality, may calculate withCockerial correctness, that “the easier he appears to be pleased, theoftener he will be invited. ” Instead of unblushingly demanding of thefair hostess, that the prime “tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate, he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content, ) with theliveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; andlet him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleasedwith her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto himeven as praise to the mistress. ”

“If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with thereflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortificationagain. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbidhis then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever solittle, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantagehis digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; andconsolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for thefollowing meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (thatbest sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of hisgourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents. ”

The following extract from that rare book, GILES ROSE’S _School for theOfficers of the Mouth_, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was amuch more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present. 

LE GRAND ESCUVER TRANCHANT, _or the Great Master Carver_. “The exerciseof a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than everyone will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all thatis done in the world, this life is not to be sustained withoutmaintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking. ”

Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or placehim within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget thefollowing exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish thatMaster Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side ofeach fish: next came a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings ofwhich the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangledevery other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the followingday, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats, rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the masterof the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a

 “Nice bit of chicken For his own private picking, ”

no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his fowl, than hesuddenly started up, rang for the cook, and after having vociferated ather carelessness, and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctoryand disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till hisappetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for herapology: the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonishment, informed him, that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearancewhich had so shocked him, was erroneous: such unsightly havoc was notoccasioned by the epicurism of a _four_-legged brute, and that the fowlswere exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that youngMaster Johnny had cut them up himself. 

Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a goodexample to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread, meat, cheese, &c. Fairly, it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled bysome sensualists, who appear to have less consideration for theirdomestics than a good sportsman for his dogs. 

A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equaldivision, and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to thenumber it is to be divided among, and considering the quantum ofappetite the several guests are presumed to possess. 

If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot beapportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be handed roundby a servant; modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a smallportion, and such as perhaps could not be offered to them withoutdisrespect. 

Those chop-house cormorants who

 “Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat, ”

are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves andfishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitelyamiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on thewatch to distribute themselves the dainties[412-*] which it is thepeculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to themthe most pleasant part of the business of the banquet; the pleasure ofhelping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for thetrouble they have had in preparing the feast: such gentry are the terrorof all good housewives; to obtain their favourite cut they will sounmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady’s dainty lapdog wouldhardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by theconsiderative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinnerfor a large family. 

The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out ofthe dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) alwaysthe most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others;which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will bepleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forcedto approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they areobliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him. 

After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in theesteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else byit, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which heknows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent forhis former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the lossit sustained in his complaisance to others. 

If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people ofceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choosefirst, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, achild would know to be the worst. 

This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be ofsuperior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love betterthan himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceitfamiliar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it. 

“If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts, and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till theywere three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assistat this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion;and yet it is certain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable toone another, than we could be otherwise. ”

The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating aslong as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves ina way that will enable them to give this specimen of good mannerswithout being particularly observed. 

“It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desiretheir guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but themaster and mistress, and those whom they think fit to desire, who are todeliver what they cut to the master or mistress, to be by themdistributed at their pleasure. ”

A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give hima command of the table, as the act of rising to perform this duty isconsidered ungraceful. 

The carving-knife should be light and sharp; and it should be firmlygrasped; although in using it, strength is not as essential as skill, particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of suchjoints as the neck, loin, and breast of veal or of mutton. 

The dish should not be far from the carver; for when it is too distant, by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, it gives an awkwardappearance to the person, and renders the task more difficult. 

In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, and thisis best avoided by the use of a fish trowel, which not being sharp, divides it better than a steel knife. Examine this little drawing, andyou will see how a cod’s head and shoulders should be carved. The headand shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of thisexcellent fish. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 1. _]

The first piece may be taken off in the direction of _a b_, by puttingin the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, and the rest insuccessive order. A small part of the sound should be given with eachslice, and will be found close to the back-bone, by raising the thinflap _d_. It is known by being darker coloured and more transparent thanthe other parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod’s head isconsidered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, _ee_, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head, areconsidered as delicate eating by many persons. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 2. _]

A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward (see _fig. 2_), and fastened tothe sides by a skewer, which is removed before the fowl is sent totable. A roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off, asin the boiled fowl; but after they have been properly scraped andwashed, they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast. Aboiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner. The wingsare taken off in the direction of _a_ to _b_ (_fig. 2_). Your knife mustdivide the joint, but afterward you have only to take firm hold of thepinion with your fork, draw the wings towards the legs, and you willfind that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with yourknife. Slip your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to thebone, then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not avery old one, the joints will give way. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 3. _]

After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at the breast, in the direction _c d_ (_fig. 3_), and you will separate themerrythought from the breast-bone; and by placing your knife under it, lift it up, pressing it backward on the dish, and you will easily removethat bone. The collar-bones, _e e_, lie on each side the merrythought, and are to be lifted up at the broad end, by the knife, and forcedtowards the breast-bone, till the part which is fastened to it breaksoff. The breast is next to be separated from the carcass, by cuttingthrough the ribs on each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. The back is then laid upward, and the knife passed firmly across it, near the middle, while the fork lifts up the other end. The side boneare lastly to be separated; to do which turn the back from you, and oneach side the back-bone, in the direction of _g g_ (_fig. 4_), you willfind a joint, which you must separate, and the cutting up of the fowlwill be complete. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 4. _]

Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; in the latter, however, the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast, unlessthe birds are very large. 

Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone, andby beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone, many moreslices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to thewings, although I do not think the slices are quite as handsome as ifcut in the latter method. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 6. _]

Pigeons (see _fig. 6_) are either cut from the neck to _a_, which is thefairest way, or from _b_ to _c_, which is now the most fashionable mode;and the lower part is esteemed the best. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 7. _]

There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, the knife may beentered near the shoulder at a (see _fig. 7_), and cut down to _b_, oneach side of the backbone; and thus the hare will be divided into threeparts. The back is to be again divided into four parts, where the dottedlines are in the cut: these and the legs are considered the best parts, though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be taken off inthe direction of _c d e_. The pieces should be laid neatly on theplates, as they are separated, and each plate served with stuffing andgravy. When the hare is old, it is better not to attempt the divisiondown the back, which would require much strength; but the legs should beseparated from the body at _f_, and then the meat cut off from eachside, and divided into moderate sized pieces. If the brains and ears arerequired, cut off the head, and put your knife between the upper andlower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper jawflat on the dish: then force the point of your knife into the centre, and having cut the head into two parts, distribute the brains with theears to those who like them. 

Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except that the back isdivided only into two pieces, which, with the legs, are considered themost delicate parts. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 8. _]

A ham is generally cut in the direction of _a_ to _b_, (_fig. 8_) downto the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. Another way is tocut a small hole at _c_, and to enlarge it by cutting circular piecesout of it; this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly, and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 9. _]

A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, butnevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which should beobserved. The first slice should be taken out at _a_ (_fig. 9_), betweenthe knuckle _b_ and the thick end; and the second and subsequent slicesshould be cut in this direction, until you are stopped by the cramp-boneat _c_; then turn it up, and take the remaining slices from the back, ina longitudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some fatfrom the broad end with each slice. The best and most juicy slices aretoward the broad end: but some persons prefer the knuckle: and whereeconomy is an object, the knuckle should always be eaten when the jointis hot, as it becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be broughtagain to table, it has a much neater and more respectable appearance ifit be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, when it is hot. Thisdirection may appear trifling; but a good economist knows the importanceof carving, when the circumstances of a family require that a joint bebrought a second time to table. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 10. _]

A haunch of venison (_fig. 10_) should be cut down to the bone in thedirection of the line _a b c_, by which means the gravy is allowed toflow out: then the carver, turning the broad end of the haunch towardhim, should cut in deep from _b_ to _d_. He then cuts thin slices in thesame direction, taking care to give to each person whom he helps a dueproportion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized: thereis generally more of this delicacy on the left side of _b d_ than on theother side. 

A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison. 

[Illustration: _Fig. 11. _]

A saddle of mutton (_fig. 11_) is cut from the tail to the end on eachside the back-bone, in the direction of the lines _a b_, continuingdownward to the edge _c_, until it become too fat. The slices should becut thin, and if the joint be a large one, they may be divided into twoparts. The fat will be found on the sides. 

A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The ribs may bedivided into two parts as well as the joints. The ribs are consideredthe finest part, and the neck end under the shoulder. Part of thekidneys should be added to each helping. 

A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to yield manychoice pieces, but this depends very much upon the carver. The first cutshould be in the direction _c b_ (_fig. 12_); and, after taking a fewslices on each side of the gap which follows the first cut, some goodslices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, in the direction _c d_. When the party is numerous, slices may be takenfrom the under side; and it is on this side, under the edge _e_, thatthe fat is found. [419-*]

[Illustration: _Fig. 12. _]

_Buttock of Beef_

Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it should becarved. A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock, that yourfriends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. The outsidethus cut off, thin slices may then be cut from the top; but as it is adish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day, it shouldalways be cut handsome and even. When a slice all round would beconsidered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a thinslice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by somecalled the white muscle. In some places, a buttock is generally divided, and this white part sold separate, as a delicacy; but it is by no meansso, the meat being coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, moretender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured; and men of distinguishingpalates ever prefer them. 

FOOTNOTES:

[412-*] He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibitsindubitable evidence that he came for that purpose. 

[419-*] Another way of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which manypersons prefer, is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of theshoulder beginning on the outside. See the lines _f_ and _g_. 

INDEX. 

 The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the Receipts; those in the column, under the word Page, to where the Receipts are to be found; and those preceded by Ap. , to the Receipts in the Appendix. 

 Page

 ACID of lemon, artificial, 407* 274

 Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 280

 An alderman in chains, 57 135

 A-la-mode beef, or veal, or English turtle, 502 312

 Allspice, essence of, 412 275 ---- tincture of, 413 ib. ---- Sir H. Sloane on, note 92

 Almond custards (Ap. 54. ) 375

 Anchovy sauce, 270 232 ---- essence, 433 279 ---- toast, 573 354 ---- butter, } 434 282 ---- paste, } ---- powder, 435 ib. ---- to keep them well, Obs. To 270 233

 Apicius, his sauce for boiled chicken 35

 Appetite, good, why the best sauce 52 ---- to refresh 38

 Appert, his art of preserving vegetables, note 164

 Apple pie (Ap. 32. ) 369 ---- pudding, boiled (Ap. 112. ) 397 ---- dumplings, ditto (Ap. 113. ) ib. ---- tart, creamed (Ap. 33. ) 369 ---- sauce, 304 242

 Apples, to dry (Ap. 83. ) 384

 Apricot jam (Ap. 93. ) 387

 Artichokes, 136 166 ---- Jerusalem, 117 160

 Asparagus, 123 161 ---- soup, 222 206

 Arrack, to imitate, 480 299

 Arbuthnot, Dr. , quoted, Preface viii. 

 Abernethy, Mr. , quoted, note 20

 Bacon, 13 117 ---- slices of, 526 324 ---- relishing rashers of, 527 ib. ---- sparerib, to roast 132

 Bain-Marie, note to 485 and 529* 304. 326

 Baking 72

 Baked custard (Ap. 52. ) 375 ---- pears (Ap. 82. ) 384

 Barley water, 565 350 ---- broth, 204 199 ---- ----, to make a gallon for a groat 210 ---- sugar (Ap. 90. ) 386 ---- drops (Ap. 91. ) ib. 

 Basil, when to dry 291 ---- vinegar, or wine, 397 269 ---- sauce, 264 231

 Batter pudding (Ap. 111. ) 397

 Beans, French, 133 164

 Beauty 51

 Bechamel, 364 257

 Beef bouilli, 5. 238. 493 109. 212. 308 ---- how nutritive and economical, 5 109 ---- to salt, 6 111 ---- savoury, 496 310 ---- a round of, salted, to boil, 7 113 ---- what the outside slices are good for, N. B. To 7 ib. ---- H-Bone, 8 ib. ---- ribs, and rolled, 9 114 ---- baron of 34 ---- sirloin, roasted, 19 122 ---- proper way to carve, in note to 19 123 ---- as mock hare, 66* 141 ---- ribs, roasted, 20 123 ---- ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124 ---- steaks, to fry, 85 148 ---- steak pudding (Ap. 24. ) 367 ---- season for, see note to 94 151 ---- with onions, 86 148 ---- to broil, 94 151 ---- the superlative steak ib. ---- Macbeth’s receipt, and le véritable _bif-teck_ de Beauvilliers, N. B. To 94 152 ---- to stew, 500 311 ---- with onion gravy, 501 312 ---- broth, 185 193 ---- broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, 252 223 ---- gravy, 186 194 ---- strong gravy, 188 ib. ---- cullis, 189 195 ---- for poultry, &c. 329 249 ---- shin of, soup, 193 196 ---- tea, 563 349 ---- to hash, 486 304 ---- shin, stewed, 493 308 ---- brisket, stewed, 494 310 ---- haricot, 495 ib. ---- Hunter’s savoury, baked or stewed, 496 ib. ---- à-la-mode, or English turtle, 502 312 ---- to pot, 503 314 ---- _bubble and squeak_, 505 316 ---- hashed, and bones broiled, 506 317 ---- cold, broiled, &c. 487 304

 Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295 ---- to bottle, 468 ib. ---- cup, 464 294

 Beet roots, 127 162 ---- ---- to pickle (Ap. 119. ) 402

 Biscuit drops (Ap. 68. ) 380

 Bishop, essence of, 412 275

 Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 219

 Black cock, 71 144

 Blancmange (Ap. 46. ) 373

 BOILING 66

 Boiled custard (Ap. 53. ) 375

 Bouillon de santé, 196 197

 Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 251

 Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cognac 296

 BREAD, to make (Ap. 100. ) 390 ---- sauce, 321 246 ---- sippets, fried, 319 ib. ---- crumbs, do. 320 ib. ---- pudding, 556 344

 Broccoli, 126 162 ---- pickled, (Ap. 122. ) 403

 Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56. ) 376

 Brill, 143 169

 Brains are sadly dependent on the bowels 20 ---- Dr. Cadogan’s obs. Thereon, note 21

 Brain balls 266

 BROILING, see the 4th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 82

 Brose, Scotch, 205* 201

 Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45. ) 373

 BROTH, see the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 89 ---- black 35 ---- of fragments 54 ---- beef, 185 193 ---- to clarify, 252* 227 ---- mutton, 194 196 ---- mock ditto, 195 197 ---- with cutlets, 490 307 ---- Scotch barley, 204 199 ---- for sick, 564 350

 Browning, to colour soup and sauce, &c. 322 246

 Bill of fare for a week 56

 Buns, plain (Ap. 77. ) 382 ---- cross (Ap. 78. ) 383 ---- seed (Ap. 79. ) ib. ---- plum (Ap. 80. ) ib. ---- Bath (Ap. 65. ) 379

 Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 270 ---- ---- sauce, 264 231

 Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353

 Butler’s directions for drying herbs, 461 290 ---- ---- to market for vegetables 359

 Butler, Obs. On the business of a note 39

 BUTTER, _best manner of melting_ 228 ---- to recover when oiled 229 ---- clarified, 259 230 ---- burnt, 260 ib. ---- oiled, 260* ib. 

 CATHOLIC FAMILIES, cookery for, 158. 224 178. 207

 Cabbage, 118 160 ---- boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316

 Cakes, common seed (Ap. 59. ) 377 ---- rich, yest (Ap. 60. ) 378 ---- queen, or heart (Ap. 61. ) ib. ---- Shrewsbury (Ap. 63. ) ib. ---- Banbury (Ap. 64. ) 379 ---- Savoy, or sponge (Ap. 67. ) 380 ---- Ratafia (Ap. 71. ) 381 ---- almond sponge (Ap. 72. ) ib. ---- diet bread (Ap. 74. ) ib. ---- Derby, or short (Ap. 87. ) 385 ---- Yorkshire (Ap. 104. ) 391

 Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247 221 ----’s head to boil, 10 114 ---- ---- to hash, 10 115 ---- ---- ragoût, 520 321 ---- ---- mock turtle, 247 219 ---- feet jelly, 481 299

 Camp vinegar, 403 271

 Carp, stewed, 158 177

 Carrots, 129 163 ---- soup, 212 201

 Carving, best rule for 43 ---- ancient terms of, note ib. 

 Catsup of mushrooms, 439 283 ---- double ditto, or dog-sup 284 ---- of walnuts, 438 282 ---- of oysters, 441 285 ---- of cockles, 442 ib. ---- of cucumbers, 399 270 ---- pudding, 446 285

 Caper sauce, 274 233 ---- ---- mock, 275 ib. 

 Capon, to roast, 58 136

 Capillaire, 476 297

 Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap. 85. ) 385

 Cauliflower, 125 162 ---- pickled (App. 122. ) 403

 Caudle, 572 353

 Cautions to carvers 44

 Cayenne, how to make, 404 272 ---- essence of, 405 273

 Celery soup, 214 202 ---- sauce, 289, 290 238 ---- seed, substitute for celery, note 92 ---- essence, 409 275

 Chantilly basket (Ap. 51. ) 375

 Cheap soup, 229 208

 Cheese and toast, 538*, 539 330 ---- toasted, 540 331 ---- buttered ditto, 541 ib. ---- pounded or potted, 542 ib. 

 Cheesecakes (Ap. 40. ) 371 ---- lemon, ditto (Ap. 41. ) 372 ---- orange, ditto (Ap. 42. ) ib. ---- almond, ditto (Ap. 43. ) ib. 

 Cherries, dried (Ap. 95. ) 387

 Chervil sauce, 264 231

 Chili vinegar, 405* 273 ---- wine, 406 ib. 

 Chicken. See Fowl. ---- pie (Ap. 16. ) 364 ---- and ham patties (Ap. 29. ) 368

 Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 94 151 ---- to fry, 85 148 ---- to stew, 490 307 ---- relish for, 423 278 ---- sauce for, 356 255

 Cinnamon, essence of, 416 276 ---- tincture of, 416* ib. 

 Claret, best wine for sauces, &c. 95

 Clarified syrup, 475 297

 Clarify broth, to, 252* 227

 Clove and mace, essence of, 414 276 ---- ---- ---- tincture of, 415 ib. 

 Cockle catchup, 442 285

 Cod, boiled, 149 172 ---- the tail filleted, note under 149 ib. ---- slices boiled, 151 174 ---- skull stewed, 158 177 ---- shaved, and sold for whitings, Obs. To 153 175

 Cold meat, to broil with poached eggs, 487 304 ---- ditto, to warm, the best way 54 ---- fish 53 ---- ---- sauce for, 453, 359, and 307 287, 255, 243 ---- veal, an excellent dish of, 512 319 ---- fowl, ditto, 533 328

 Colouring for soup and sauce, 322 246 ---- a frequent cause of adulteration, 322 247

 Committee of taste 17

 Consommé, 252 223

 Coffee, to make 340

 Cooks, friendly advice to 46 ---- hints to 53 ---- ditto, when they have a very large dinner 62

 Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good ones 310 ---- deserve good wages 23 ---- a manor given to one by William the Conqueror 22 ---- Obs. Concerning their health, note 26

 Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44

 Cooking animals, dine only once a month, note 17

 Cookery, Descartes’s observations on 19 ---- Dr. Johnson’s ditto 20 ---- theory of, note ib. ---- importance of 21 ---- Dr. Stark vii. ---- the analeptic part of physic 19 ---- Dr. Mandeville viii. ---- Arbuthnot ib. ---- Parmentier x. ---- Sylvester’s Obs. On, note 20 ---- best books on, note ib. ---- theory of the processes of, from the Encyclopædia Brit. Note ib. ---- opinion of a cook on books of 32

 Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener 22

 Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195

 _Coup d’aprés_ 94

 Crab, to boil, 177 188

 Crawfish soup, 235 211 ---- ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont, 235 ib. 

 Cream, clouted, 388 267

 Cranberry tart (Ap. 37. ) 370

 Croquante of paste (Ap. 86. ) 385

 Cottage potato pudding (Ap. 115. ) 398

 Crisp parsley, 318 245

 Currant jelly, 479* 298

 Curry powder, 455 287 ---- soup, 249 222 ---- sauce, 348 254 ---- balls, 382 266 ---- to dress, 497 311

 Curaçoa, how to make, 474 296

 Custard pudding 347

 Cider cup, 465 294

 Culinary curiosities 32

 Crane 34

 Curlews ib. 

 Cat in gely ib. 

 Corks 106

 Cement for sealing bottles ib. 

 Caw-caw bones, N. B. 1 108

 Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122

 Cress sauce, 264 231 ---- vinegar, 397* 269

 Cucumber, stewed, 135 165 ---- vinegar, 399 270 ---- to preserve (Ap. 98. ) 389

 Carp, to stew, 158 177

 Charity, the greatest 24

 Crumpets (Ap. 103. ) 391

 Devil, 538 329 ---- his venison 33 ---- sauce for 255 ---- biscuit, 574 354

 Damson cheese (Ap. 89. ) 386

 Digestion, how important 19

 Dripping pan 76

 Dripping, to clarify, 83 146 ---- Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Stark’s Obs. On, 83 147 ---- soup 210

 Duck, to roast, 61 139 ---- bonne bouche for, 341 251 ---- to hash, 530 326 ---- cold, to warm, 535 329 ---- wild, to roast, 74 144

 Dutch salad, Obs. To 372 260

 Dinner, seven chances against its being properly dressed, note 22 ---- hints for preparing a large, p. 62, 63; a good one for 5_d. _, 204 199 ---- invitation to 36 ---- importance of punctuality, the only act which cannot be postponed 37 ---- arrangements of guests at 40 ---- rules for behaviour at, from the Accomplished Lady’s Delight, note 29 ---- hints for providing 38 ---- Obs. On second courses, &c. Ib. ---- punishment for not being punctual at 42 ---- Boileau’s Obs. On ib. ---- Hints to those who dine out 44

 Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8 113 ---- ---- ways of spelling 114

 Education of a cook’s tongue 52

 Eels, stewed, Wiggy’s way, 164 181 ---- pickled, 161 180 ---- fried, 165 182 ---- pie (Ap. 22. ) 366 ---- spitchocked, 166 182 ---- soup, 225 207

 Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, see N. B. To 547 338 ---- sauce, 267 232 ---- fried with bacon, 545 336 ---- ragoût, 545* 337 ---- with minced bacon, 549 339 ---- poached, 546 337 ---- ditto, with minced ham, 548 338 ---- boiled in the shell, 547 ib. ---- ditto, for a salad, 372 260 ---- various ways of dressing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88. ) 386

 Epictetus, a relish for, 27 125

 Eschalot sauce, 294 239 ---- vinegar, 401 271 ---- wine, 402 ib. 

 Essence of turtle, 343 252

 Essence of ham, 351 254 ---- where to buy it, 351 ib. ---- of mushrooms, 440 285 ---- of oysters, 441 ib. ---- of anchovy, 433 280 ---- of Cayenne, 405 273 ---- lemon peel, 407 ib. ---- ditto, 408 274 ---- of celery, 409 275 ---- ginger, 411 ib. ---- allspice, 412 ib. ---- clove, 414 276 ---- mace, 414 ib. ---- cinnamon, 416 ib. ---- marjoram, 417 277 ---- sweet herbs, 417* ib. ---- soup herbs, 420 ib. ---- eschalot, 402 271 ---- soup herbs and savoury spice, 422 277

 Epicure, the editor’s definition of note 17 ---- the temperate man the greatest 19

 Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 61

 Fawn, 65 140

 Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231

 Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 86 ---- cold, to redress 53 ---- fecundity of, note 86 ---- how to market for 358 ---- to stew, 158 177 ---- soups, 225 207 ---- forcemeat, 383 266 ---- sauce, 425 278 ---- to pickle, 161 180

 Forcemeat, to make, 373 262 ---- materials used for 263 ---- for veal, 375 264 ---- for turkey, 377 265 ---- for goose, 378 ib. ---- for hare, 379 ib. ---- balls, for mock turtle and made dishes, 380 ib. ---- egg ditto, 381 266 ---- curry ditto, 382 ib. ---- zest, &c. 386 ib. ---- of fish for maigre dishes, 383 ib. ---- to mix orange and lemon peel, 387 ib. 

 Flip, 466 294

 Flounders, 155 175

 Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the same time 33 ---- to boil, 16 119 ---- to roast, 58 136 ---- to broil, 97 154 ---- hashed, 533 328 ---- pulled, 534 ib. ---- to dress cold, 535 329 ---- Apicius’s sauce for 35

 French beans, 133 164 ---- ---- pickled (Ap. 118. ) 402 ---- tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 35. ) 370 ---- bread and rolls (Ap. 100*) 390

 Froth roast meat, to 78

 Frogges, fried 34

 Fare, bill of, for a week 56

 Frying 80

 Flavour, agents employed to soups and sauces, note under 104

 Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 175

 Fritters, 558 344

 Fruit, to preserve, without sugar (Ap. 99. ) 390

 Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 ---- soup, 242 216

 Garlic vinegar, 400 270 ---- sauce, 272 233 ---- gravy, 311 244

 Giblets, stewed, 531 328 ---- soup, 244 216 ---- pie (Ap. 14. ) 363

 Gherkins (Ap. 117. ) 402

 Gigot de Sept Heures, N. B. To 1 108

 Ginger, essence of, 411 275 ---- preserved (Ap. 97. ) 389

 Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76. ) 382

 Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most nutritive food 138 ---- to roast, 59 137 ---- ditto, alive 33 ---- to persuade one to roast himself! 1 ib. ---- how the liver is fattened for the Strasburg pies. In note to 59 137 ---- to hash, 530 326 ---- green, 60 138 ---- mock, 51 131 ---- bonne bouche for, 341 251 ---- relish for, 341 ib. 

 Gourds, various ways of dressing 348

 GOURMAND defined, note 17

 Gourmandize, to guard against, note 24

 Gooseberry sauce, 263 231

 GRAVY, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 ---- for poultry, ragoûts, &c. , 329 249 ---- onion, 299 241 ---- garlic, 311 244 ---- game, 337 251 ---- for wild duck, 338 ib. ---- roasted meat, 326 248 ---- boiled, 327 249 ---- wow wow for salted or stewed beef, 328 249 ---- for grills and broils, &c. , 355 254 ---- for chops and steaks, 356 255 ---- relish for chops and steaks, 423 278 ---- for cold meat or poultry, &c. , 359 255 ---- hashes of mutton, &c. , 360 256 ---- ditto, veal, 361 257 ---- for venison, of wine, 344 253 ---- of vinegar, 345 ib. ---- for venison, of currant jelly, 346 ib. ---- of mutton, 347 ib. ---- brown colouring for, 322 246 ---- portable, 252 223 ---- soup, 200 198 ---- vegetable, ditto, 224 207

 Green pease, 134 164 ---- soup, 216 203 ---- maigre, ditto, 217 ib. 

 Green gages, preserved in syrup (Ap. 96. ) 388

 Grill sauce, 355 254

 Grouse, 73 144

 Gruel, water, various ways of making and flavouring, 572 352

 Guinea fowl, 69* 143

 Glasse, Mrs. , her Cookery 20

 Gridiron 82

 Haddock, 157 176 ---- Findhorn, ditto, 157* ib. 

 Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* 305

 Ham, to boil, 14 118 ---- to pot, 509 318 ---- slices of broiled, 526 324 ---- essence of, 351 354 ---- where to buy, ditto, 351 ib. 

 Hare, roast, 66 140 ---- jugged, 529* 325 ---- soup, 241 215 ---- mock, 66* 141 ---- hashed, 529 325 ---- pie (Ap. 11. ) 362

 Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or beef, 489 306 ---- of beef, 495 310

 Hashes, mutton, 484 303 ---- to warm up, 485 304 ---- beef, 486 ib. ---- veal, 511 318 ---- venison, 528 325 ---- cold calf’s head, 519 321 ---- ditto, 10 114 ---- calf’s head or ragoût, 520 321 ---- hare, 529 325 ---- duck or goose, 530 326 ---- poultry, game, or rabbit, 533 328 ---- sauce for, 360 256

 Haunch (see H. ) bone of beef, 8 113

 Herbs, when, and how to dry, 461 290

 Herrings, pickled, 171 185 ---- broiled, 171* ib. ---- red ditto, 172 186

 Horseradish powder, 458* 289 ---- vinegar, 399* 270

 Housekeeping, plan of 27 ---- book ib. 

 Horse powdered 34

 Hill, Dr. , author of Mrs. Glasse’s Cookery 20

 Hanger, Col. , quoted, his hints for guarding against “la Gourmandize, ” note 23

 Hudson, the dwarf, served up in a pie 34

 Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ap. 31. ) 369 ---- for twelfth cake (Ap. 84. ) 384

 Indigestion 38 ---- lozenges for, note ib. ---- remedy for 39

 Invitations, how to send 41 ---- to answer ib. 

 Indian or mixed pickle (Ap. 123. ) 404

 Independence, the road to 64

 Italian salad, see Obs. To 372 260 ---- cream (Ap. 48. ) 374 ---- macaroons (Ap. 70. ) 380

 Irish stew, Mrs. Phillips’s, 488 305 ---- ditto, Mr. Morrison’s, 488 ib. 

 Jack, to dress, 158 177

 Jacks, Obs. On 74

 Jelly, ox heel, 198 197 ---- calf’s feet, 481 299 ---- of currants and other fruits, 479* 298

 Jerusalem artichokes, 117 160

 Jockey, how to waste 190

 JOHNSON’S brandy and liqueurs, 471 296

 JOHNSON, Dr. , quoted 20

 KAY, Mr. , of Albion House, wines, &c. , Obs. To 94 243

 KELLY’S sauce for calf head or cow heel, 311 244 ---- ditto, for sauce _piquante_, 311* ib. 

 Kid, to roast, 65* 140

 Kidneys, to broil, 95 153

 Kitchen maid, business of a 25

 Kitchen fire place, best ornaments for 64 ---- chimney should be swept often 54 ---- utensils 89

 Kitchiner, Dr. , quoted, note, 572 30

 LIFE, THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING vii. 

 Lacedæmon, black broth of 35 ---- ditto sauce ib. 

 Lamb, to broil, 3 109 ---- to roast, 40 129 ---- sham lamb, ditto, 40 ib. ---- hind quarter, 41 ib. ---- fore quarter, 42 130 ---- leg, 43 ib. ---- shoulder, 44 ib. ---- to goosify, ditto, note to 51 131 ---- ribs, 45 130 ---- loin, 46 130 ---- neck, 47 ib. ---- breast, 48 ib. ---- chops, 93 150 ---- shoulder, grilled, 491 307 ---- lamb’s fry, 492 308

 Larders, proper, note 57

 Larks, 80 146

 Lemon chips (Ap. 94. ) 387 ---- syrup, 391 267 ---- sauce, 273 233 ---- juice, artificial, 407* 274

 Lemon and liver sauce, 287 237 ---- peel essence, 407 273 ---- quintessence ditto, 408 274 ---- tincture ditto, 408* ib. 

 Lemonade in a minute, 477 297

 Liquamen of the Romans 35

 _Liqueurs_, 471 296

 Lister, Mrs. , leg of beef soup. See shin of beef soup. 

 Liver of a goose. See note under 59 137 ---- and parsley sauce, 287 237 ---- ditto for fish, 288 238

 Lobster, to roast, 82 146 ---- to boil, 176 187 ---- sauce, 284 236 ---- sauce for lobster, 285 237 ---- soup, 237 211 ---- potted, 178 183 ---- patties (Ap. 27. ) 368 ---- salad, 372 260 ---- spawn, to preserve, N. B. To 284 236

 Lozenges 38

 Macaroni, 543 332 ---- soup, see Obs. To 200 198

 Mackerel, boiled, 167 183 ---- broiled, 169 184 ---- baked, 170 ib. ---- pickled, 171 185 ---- roe sauce, 266 231

 Made dishes, Obs. On. See 9th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 106 ---- ---- economical ditto, 483 300

 Magazine of Taste 292

 Maigre forcemeat, 383 266 ---- plum pudding, 554 342

 Mandeville, Dr. , quoted, Preface viii. 

 Manners, the importance of good 42

 Marjoram, essence of, 417 277

 Marrow bones, 544 336

 Meat, soup from any, boiled 69

 Melroe, Mrs. , her Econom. Cookery, quoted, note to 83 147

 Melted butter 228

 Minced collops 306

 Mince pies (Ap. 38. ) 371 ---- meat (Ap. 39. ) 372

 Mint sauce, 303 242 ---- vinegar, 398 270

 Mock turtle soup, 247 219 ---- ditto, do. By E. Lister, 245 218

 Mille feuilles (Ap. 44. ) 372

 Moor game, 72 144

 Morels, Obs. On 89

 Mulled wine, aromatic, essence for, 412 275

 Mustard, to make, 370 259 ---- to make in a minute, 369 ib. ---- ditto, to keep, 427 278 ---- seed oil 404

 Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth century 29 ---- good effects of good 42 ---- bad effects of bad 43

 Measures, glass ones 31

 Meat, how long it must hang to be tender 57 ---- if frozen ib. ---- killing it by electricity makes it tender immediately 58

 Marketing 61 ---- best rule for ib. ---- ditto 56

 MARKETING TABLES, for meat 355 ---- ---- poultry 357 ---- ---- vegetables 359

 Meat skreen 77

 Meat cakes, 504* 316

 Mutton, to boil a leg, 1 108 ---- neck, 2 109

 Mutton, 23 124 ---- roast, a leg, 24 125 ---- ditto, saddle, 26 ib. ---- shoulder, 27 ib. ---- loin, 28 ib. ---- neck, 29 126 ---- breast, 30 ib. ---- haunch, 31 ib. ---- ditto, venison fashion, 32 ib. ---- or veal pie (Ap. 10. ) 362 ---- chops, 92 150 ---- ditto, stewed, 490 307 ---- broth, 194. 564 196. 350 ---- ---- mock, 195 197 ---- to hash, 484 303 ---- haricot, 489 306 ---- mullaga-tawny soup, 249 222

 Mushroom sauce, 305 242 ---- ditto, brown, 306 243 ---- extempore, 307 ib. ---- catchup, 439 283 ---- quintessence of, 440 285

 Marrow bones, 544 336 ---- vegetable 348

 Muffins (Ap. 102. ) 391

 Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* 276 ---- grater, the best 65

 Omelettes, 543* 333

 Onion, Obs. On, note 92 ---- pickled (Ap. 121. ) 403 ---- stewed, 137 166 ---- young, sauce, 296 240 ---- sauce, 297 ib. ---- ---- white, 298 240 ---- ---- brown, 299 241 ---- sage and, 300 ib. 

 Orange jelly (Ap. 47. ) 373 ---- gingerbread (Ap. 75. ) 382

 Orgeat (Ap. 81. ) 383

 Ox cheek, stewed, 507 317 ---- ---- portable soup of, 252 224

 Ox tails, stewed, 508 318

 Ox head soup, 239 213

 Ox tail soup, 240 214

 Ox heel jelly, 198 197 ---- ---- soup, 240* 214

 Oysters, how to feed and preserve their lives, and how to tickle them to death, 181 189 ---- certainly not so nutritive as supposed, N. B. To 181 190 ---- native, those that are born and bred in the Burnham rivers, note to 181 189 ---- essence of, 441 285 ---- scalloped, 182 191 ---- stewed, 182* 192 ---- fried, 183 ib. ---- sauce, 278 234 ---- preserved in powder, 280 234 ---- patties (Ap. 26. ) 368

 Osborne, H. Cook to Sir J. Banks xi. 52 ---- ditto, his receipts for puddings, &c. , 560 345

 Oatmeal, a substitute for bread crumbs, note 82

 Pancakes, 558 344

 Paregoric elixir, 570 352

 Pharmacopœia, Appendix to x. 

 Parmentier, quoted, Preface ib. 

 Parsley and butter, 261 230 ---- to preserve, N. B. To 261 231 ---- fried, 317 245 ---- crisp, 318 246

 Partridges, 70 143 ---- soup, 241 215

 Paste for croquants, or cut pastry (Ap. 8. ) 361 ---- for meat or savoury pies (Ap. 2. ) 360 ---- for boiled puddings (Ap. 6. ) 361 ---- for stringing tartlets, &c. (Ap. 7. ) ib. 

 Pease, to boil, 134 164 ---- pudding, 555 343 ---- ---- how to make for half the usual expense, note to 555 ib. ---- soups, 218. 220 203. 205 ---- ditto, in five minutes, Obs. To 555 343 ---- curry pease soup, note to 218 205 ---- celery ditto, ditto, 218 204 ---- plain pease soup, 221 206

 Parsnips, 128 163

 Peristaltic persuaders 39

 Peptic Precepts, quoted ib. 

 Pease powder, 458 289

 Perch, fried, 159 179 ---- boiled, 160 179 ---- stewed, 158 177

 Pheasant, 68 142 ---- mock ditto, 69 143 ---- criterion of its being “_assez mortifiée_, ” Obs. On 68 142

 PICKLES, Obs. On 398 ---- pounded ib. ---- wholesome substitute for, 398, 399

 Pigeons, roast, 78 145 ---- to broil, 98 154 ---- or lark pie (Ap. 13. ) 363

 Pig, sucking, 56 133

 Pettitoes or sucking pig’s feet, 12 171

 Piquante vinegar, 453 287

 Plaice, fried, 155 175

 Plain pound cake (Ap. 57. ) 377

 Plum pudding, 553 341

 Plum pudding sauce, 269 232

 Plum pound cake (Ap. 58. ) 377

 Poached eggs, 546 337

 Poor man’s sauce, 310 243

 Poor, soup for, 229 208

 Papin, Dr. , his Digester, note 223

 Pork, the season for it, and the accompaniments, &c. , 49 130 ---- to roast a leg, 50 131 ---- to boil ditto, 11 116 ---- to roast without the skin on, 51 131 ---- mock goose, 51 ib. ---- to lambify the leg of a porkling, see note to 51 ib. ---- griskin, 52 132 ---- sparerib, 53 ib. ---- loin, 54 ib. ---- chine, 55 133 ---- to salt, 6 112 ---- to boil, pickled, 11 116 ---- how to score after you have boiled it, 11 ib. ---- chops, to fry, 93 150 ---- sausages, 87 148

 Poivrade sauce, 365 259

 Portable soup, 252 223

 Pot top, best fat for frying, Obs. To 83 147 ---- ---- liquor 54 ---- ---- to convert into pease soup in five minutes, N. B. To 555 343

 Potatoes, 16 ways of dressing, 102 155 ---- to redress cold, 102* 156 ---- boiled and broiled, 103 ib. ---- fried in slices, 104 ib. ---- fried whole, 105 157 ---- mashed, 106 ib. ---- ditto, with onion, 107 ib. ---- escalloped, 108 ib. ---- roasted, 109 158 ---- under meat, 110 ib. ---- balls, 111 ib. ---- savoury, 112 ib. ---- snow, 114 ib. ---- gipsy pie, 115 159 ---- new, 116 ib. ---- mucilage or starch, 448 286 ---- flour ib. ---- colcannon, 108* 157

 Potted beef, veal, game, &c. , 503 314 ---- ---- veal, game, &c. , why in season at the same time as mock turtle, note under 247 219

 Potted ham, &c. , 509 318

 Prawns, 175 187

 Poultry, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 ---- marketing tables for 357

 Pudding, my, 554 341 ---- plum, 553 ib. ---- ditto, do. Sauce for, 269 232 ---- suet, 551 340 ---- Yorkshire, 552 341 ---- pease, 555 343 ---- macaroni, 543 332 ---- batter 346 ---- bread and butter, boiled and baked, 557 344 ---- Boston apple 345 ---- spring fruit ib. ---- Nottingham ib. ---- Newmarket 346 ---- Newcastle or cabinet ib. ---- Vermicelli ib. ---- bread ib. ---- custard 347 ---- boiled ditto ib. ---- college (Ap. 105. ) 395 ---- rice, baked or boiled ib. ---- ground ib. ---- save-all (Ap. 110. ) 396

 Puddings and pies, Obs. On 392

 Pudding catchup, 446 285

 Puff paste (Ap. 1. ) 360

 Pulled turkey, chicken, &c. , 534 328

 Punch, directly, 478 298 ---- essence of, to make, 479 ib. 

 Purger souvent les Cuisiniers (de la nécessité) 26

 Pig’s pettitoes, 12 117

 Politeness, ancient rules for, note 29

 Porpus 33

 Pie, Jeffery Hudson served up in one 34

 Provisions, how to procure the best, 61. 357

 Pepper, Obs. On 93 ---- double headed boxes 65

 Queen’s drops (Ap. 62. ) 378

 Quin’s sauce, 425 278 ---- ditto, Obs. On Ann Chovy’s marriage, in note to 433 281

 Rabbit, roast, 67 142 ---- boiled, 17 121 ---- broiled, 97 154 ---- soup, 241 215 ---- pie (Ap. 17. ) 365 ---- a Welch, 539 330

 Ragoût beef, see Obs. To 493 309 ---- sauce, 329 249 ---- savoury powder, 457 288 ---- quintessence of ditto, 460 290 ---- of poultry, to dress, 530* 327 ---- breast of veal, 517 319 ---- raised pies (Ap. 5. ) 361 ---- French pies (Ap. 18. ) 365 ---- ham pie (Ap. 19. ) ib. ---- pork pie (Ap. 21. ) 366 ---- lamb pie (Ap. 23. ) ib. 

 Raspberry vinegar, 390 266 ---- wine or brandy, 469 295 ---- jam (Ap. 92. ) 387

 Red cabbage, pickled (Ap. 120. ) 403

 Rhubarb, various ways of dressing 347

 Rice blancmange (Ap. 109. ) 396 ---- pudding (Ap. 106. ) 395 ---- ground pudding (Ap. 107. ) ib. ---- sauce, 321* 246 ---- snowballs (Ap. 108. ) 396

 Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30. ) 369

 ROASTING, see the 2d chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 74

 Robert sauce for pork and geese, 342 252

 Roe boat ditto, see Obs. To 342 ib. 

 Rouge, see note to 433 281

 Roux, see Obs. To 257 229

 Rump steak, broiled, 94 151 ---- ---- stewed, 500 311 ---- ---- do. With onion gravy, 501 312 ---- ---- pie (Ap. 15. ) 364

 Romans ate five meals a day 34 ---- their favourite dishes 35 ---- liquamen and garum ib. 

 Sack posset, Sir F. Shepherd’s, 467* 295

 Sage and onion sauce, 300 241

 Sally Lunn tea cakes (Ap. 101. ) 390

 Salt, to prepare for table, 371 260

 Salt fish, 150 173

 Salting meat, 6 111 ---- to make it red, 6 ib. ---- to make it savoury, 6 112 ---- to pickle meat ib. 

 Sandwiches, 504 316

 Save-all pudding (Ap. 110. ) 396

 SCOTCH haggis, 488* 305 ---- collops, 517 321 ---- ditto, minced 306 ---- gravy, see Obs. To 326 248 ---- brose, 205* 201 ---- barley broth, 204 199 ---- beef, note 123 ---- soups, 205 200 ---- winter hotch potch, 205 ib. ---- leek soup, or cocky leeky, 205 201 ---- lamb stew, 205 ib. 

 Salads, Evelyn’s directions about, 138 and 372 166. 260 ---- Dutch, French, Italian, &c. , Obs. To 372 261

 Salad sauce, 372 and 453 260. 287

 Salmon, pickled, 161 180 ---- boiled, 162 ib. ---- broiled, 163 181

 SAUCE, before you make, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 ---- anchovy, 270 232 ---- apple, 304 242 ---- basil vinegar or wine, 397 269 ---- balls for mock turtle, 380 265 ---- bechamel, 364 257 ---- bottled oyster, 278 234 ---- beef gravy, for poultry, 329 249 ---- bonne bouche for a goose, 341 251 ---- bread, 321 246 ---- browning, 322 ib. ---- butter, melted, 256 228 ---- burnt, ditto, 260 230 ---- clarified, ditto, 259 ib. ---- oiled, ditto, 260* ib. ---- to recover, N. B. To 256 229 ---- catchup of mushrooms, 439 283 ---- of walnuts, 438 282 ---- of cockles, &c. , 442 285 ---- for puddings, 446 ib. ---- camp vinegar, 403 271 ---- caper, 274 233 ---- celery, 289 238 ---- ditto, brown, 290 ib. ---- chervil, 264 231 ---- Chili vinegar, 405 273 ---- crisp parsley, 318 245 ---- cucumber, 135 165 ---- curry, 348 254 ---- egg, 267 232 ---- essence of turtle, 343* 252 ---- ---- of ham, 351 254 ---- ---- of mushrooms, 440 285 ---- ---- of oysters, 441 ib. ---- ---- of Cayenne, 405 273 ---- ---- of anchovy, 433 280 ---- ---- of lemon peel, 407 274 ---- quintessence of ditto, 408 ib. ---- ---- essence of celery, 409 275 ---- ---- of ginger, 411 ib. ---- ---- of allspice, 412 ib. ---- ---- of clove, } 414 276 ---- ---- of mace, } ---- ---- of cinnamon, 416 ib. ---- ---- of soup herbs, 420 277 ---- ---- of soup herb and savoury spice, 422 ib. ---- ---- of eschalot, 402 271 ---- ---- of punch, 479 298 ---- eschalot, 294 239 ---- ditto, vinegar, 401 271 ---- fennel and butter for mackerel, &c. , 265 232 ---- fish, 425 278 ---- forcemeat, to make, 373 262 ---- forcemeat balls for mock turtle, 380 265 ---- egg balls, 381 266 ---- curry ditto, 382 ib. ---- fish forcemeat, 383 ib. ---- zest ditto, 386 ib. ---- for veal, 375 264 ---- to mix orange or lemon peel, 387 266 ---- gravy for poultry, ragoûts, &c. , 329 249 ---- ditto for game, 337 251 ---- ditto for wild duck, 338 ib. ---- ditto of onion, 299 241 ---- ditto of garlic, 311 244 ---- ditto for roasted meat, 326 248 ---- ditto for boiled ditto, 327 249 ---- wow wow, for boiled beef, 328 ib. ---- wine, see venison, 344 253 ---- vinegar for venison, 345 ib. ---- mutton ib. ---- for grills, 355 254 ---- for chops and steaks, 356 255 ---- for cold meat or poultry, 359 ib. ---- for hashes of mutton, &c. , 360 256 ---- for ditto of veal, 361 257 ---- relish for chops, 423 278 ---- gooseberry, 263 231 ---- garlic, 272 233 ---- ditto gravy, 311 244 ---- ditto vinegar, 400 270 ---- M. Kelly’s, for calf’s head or cow heel, 311* 244 ---- ditto, ditto, _piquante_, 311* ib. ---- lemon, syrup of, 391 267 ---- lemonade in a minute, 477 297 ---- lemon, 273 233 ---- ditto, and liver, or parsley and liver sauce, 287 237 ---- liver, for fish, 288 238 ---- lobster, 284 236 ---- for lobster, 285 237 ---- mackerel roe, 266 231 ---- green mint, 303 242 ---- vinegar, 398 270 ---- mushroom, 305 242 ---- ditto, brown, 306 243 ---- ditto, in five minutes, 307 ib. ---- mustard, to make, 370 259 ---- ditto, in a minute, 369 ib. ---- ditto, to keep, 427 278 ---- oyster, 278 234 ---- bottled, ditto, 280 ib. ---- onion, 297 240 ---- ditto, white, for rabbits, &c. 298 ib. ---- young onion, 296 ib. ---- fried, or brown onion, 299 241 ---- sage and onion, 300 ib. ---- ox heel jelly, 198 197 ---- parsley and butter, 261 230 ---- ditto, fried, 317 244 ---- ditto, crisp, 318 245 ---- pease powder, 458 289 ---- pickles, 462 292 ---- piquante vinegar, 453 287 ---- plum pudding, 269 232 ---- poivrade, 365 259 ---- poor man’s, 310 243 ---- potato mucilage, 448 286 ---- ragoût sauce, 329 249 ---- ragoût powder, 457 288 ---- quintessence of ragoût powder, 460 290 ---- rice, 321* 246 ---- salad mixture, 372 260 ---- salad, 453 287 ---- superlative, 429 278 ---- box, 462 59. 292

 Savoy biscuits (Ap. 69. ) 380

 Savoys, 120 160

 Savoury salt beef, 496 310

 Savoury pies, pasties, &c. (Ap. 12. ) 363

 Soup herb powder, or vegetable relish, 459 289

 Shrimps, potted, 175 187

 Shrimp sauce, 283 235

 Shrub, 479 298

 Small puffs of preserved fruit, (Ap. 36. ) 370

 Snipes, 77 144

 Soda water, Obs. On, note 38

 Sorrel sauce, 291 238

 Sponge biscuits, (Ap. 66. ) 379

 Sprouts, 121 160

 Sparerib of bacon, to roast, 53 132

 Spices, Obs. On, 429 279

 Soup herb and savoury powder, 460 290 ---- spirit, 420, 421, 422 277

 Spinage, 122 160

 Stock, first, note to 185 193 ---- second, note to 185 194

 Stuffing, 373 262 ---- for hare, 379 265 ---- for goose, 378 ib. ---- for turkey, 377 ib. ---- for veal, 374 264

 Suet pudding, 551 340

 Syrup, clarified, 475 297 ---- of lemon peel, 393 268 ---- of lemon, 391 267 ---- of orange, 392 268

 Stomach, an Englishman’s cooking kettle, Dr. Hunter’s Obs. On; Waterhouse’s ditto, note 15 ---- the machinery of life 19 ---- Dr. Cheyne’s Obs. On; Abernethy’s ditto 20

 Stomachic tincture, 569 352

 Spectacles for Gourmands, note 23

 Spring fruit, various ways of dressing 347

 Sprats, to broil, 170* 185 ---- to pickle, 171 185 ---- to stew, 170** ib. ---- to fry, 173 187

 Servants, Rev. Wm. Watkins’ excellent institution for the encouragement of 25 ---- friendly advice to 46 ---- maxims for 49

 Swan 33

 Seals 34

 Skate, 148 172

 Soups, under the name of the article they are made of. 

 Soup, Obs. On 89 ---- cheap 91 ---- and bouilli, 238 212

 Steaks, 85, 94 148. 151

 Stew pan 89

 Suet, to clarify for frying, &c. 84 147 ---- puddings 393

 Sausages, to fry, 87 148

 Sweetbread, to fry, 88 149 ---- do. Plain, 89 ib. 

 Sweet, or short and crisp tart paste (Ap. 4. ) 360

 Sea kale, 124 162

 Soles, to boil, 144 169 ---- to fry, 145 ib. ---- to stew, 146, 158, 164 171. 177. 181 ---- filleted, 147 171

 Skate, fried, 154 175

 Sturgeon, 152 174

 Tart paste (Ap. 3. ) 360

 Tartlets (Ap. 34. ) 370

 Taste, the Committee of, Preface xi. ---- the Magazine of, 462 63. 292 ---- varieties of 51

 Tastes, six simple, note 53

 Tamis, note to, 189 195

 Tankard, cool, 464 294

 Tarragon sauce, 264 232 ---- vinegar, 396 268

 Tea, to make, 550 339

 Tender, to make meat 58

 Tewahdiddle, 467 294

 Thickening, or _roux_, 257 229 ---- ditto 98

 Toast and water, 463 293 ---- and cheese, 539 330

 Toasted cheese, 540 331

 Tomato sauce, 292 239 ---- mock ditto, 293 ib. 

 Tongue to boil, 15 119 ---- what the roots are good for, Obs. To 15 ib. 

 Toothache, cure for, 567 351

 Tripe, 18 121

 Trifle (Ap. 49. ) 374

 Truffles, Obs. On 95

 Turbot, to boil, 140 167

 Turkey, to boil, 16 119 ---- to fatten and whiten, 16 ib. ---- roast, 57 134 ---- hash, &c. 533 328 ---- pulled, 534 ib. 

 Turnips, 130 163 ---- to mash, 131 164

 Turnip-tops, 132 164 ---- soup, 213 202

 Turtle, to dress, 250 223 ---- mock ditto, 247, &c. 219 ---- Birch’s ditto, excellent note to 247 ib. ---- mock mock, ditto, 245 218 ---- English, 248 222 ---- sauce, 343 252 ---- essence, 343* ib. ---- hints to turtle eaters, Obs. To 493 309 ---- 2500 pounds of, eaten at one dinner, note to 250 223

 Twelfth cake (Ap. 55. ) 376

 Vauxhall nectar, to imitate, 480 299

 Veal, to boil, 4 109 ---- to roast, 33 127 ---- fillet, 34 ib. ---- loin, 35 128 ---- shoulder, 36 ib. ---- neck, best end, 37 ib. ---- breast, 38 ib. ---- sweetbread, 39 ib. ---- cutlet, 90 149 ---- ditto, sauce for, 90 ib. ---- ditto, full dressed, 521 322 ---- broth, 191 195 ---- gravy, 192 ib. ---- knuckle soup, 193 196 ---- stuffing, Roger Fowler’s, 374 264 ---- forcemeat, 375 ib. ---- breast, stewed, 515 319 ---- minced, 511* 318 ---- hashed, 511 ib. ---- sauce for, 361 257 ---- excellent hot ragoût of cold veal, 512 319 ---- potted, 503 314 ---- breast ragoût, 517 319 ---- ditto, with pease, note to 517 320 ---- olives, 518 321 ---- cutlets, broiled, 521 322 ---- knuckle, to ragoût, 522 323 ---- with rice, 523 ib. ---- Gay’s receipt, ditto, 524 ib. ---- and ham patties (Ap. 28. ) 368 ---- ---- ---- pie (Ap. 20. ) 366

 Vegetables, Obs. On. See the 5th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 83

 Vegetable essences, to extract, 417. * 277 ---- marrow 348 ---- marketing tables for 359

 Venison, to roast a haunch, 63 139 ---- neck or shoulder, 64 140 ---- to hash, 528 325 ---- to vensonify mutton, 32 126 ---- the Devil’s 33 ---- wine sauce for, 344 253 ---- sharp ditto for, 345 ib. ---- sweet ditto, 346 ib. ---- mutton gravy, 347 ib. ---- pasty (Ap. 9. ) 362

 Vinegar sauce for venison, 345 253 ---- burnet or cucumber, 399 270 ---- basil, 397 269 ---- cress, 397* ib. ---- garlic, 400 270 ---- horseradish, 399* ib. ---- eschalot, 401 271 ---- camp, 403 ib. ---- piquante, 453 287 ---- for salads, 395 268 ---- tarragon, 396 ib. ---- raspberry, 390 267 ---- sweet and savoury herbs, spices, &c. , Obs. To 396 269 ---- green mint, 398 270 ---- pyroligneous, Obs. On 397* 269

 Vol au vent (Ap. 25. ) 367

 Walnuts, to pickle (Ap. 116. ) 401

 Walnut catchup, 438 282

 Water gruel, immediately, 572 352 ---- various relishes for, 572 ib. 

 Water souchy, 156 175

 Watkins, the Rev. G. , his hints to heads of families 25

 Welsh rabbit, 539 330

 Wheatears, 81 146

 White sauce, 364, 365 258 ---- wine whey, 566 351

 Whitings, fried, 153 174

 Whip syllabub (Ap. 50. ) 375

 Widgeons and teal, 75 144

 Wild ducks, 74 ib. 

 Wine sauce for venison, &c. , 344 253 ---- eschalot, 402 271

 Woodcock, 76 144 ---- has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, note to 76 ib. 

 Wow wow sauce for boiled beef, 328 249

 Weights and measures for cookery, table of 64

 Weight, the diminution that takes place in cooking 70

 Yorkshire pudding, 552 341

THE END

Transcriber’s Note

The following typographical errors were corrected. 

Page Error viii DR. MANDEVILLE changed to Dr. MANDEVILLE x avail nothing. Changed to avail nothing, xiii Confectionary, changed to Confectionery 17 PALATEABLENESS changed to PALATABLENESS 18 appetite. ”--MILTON changed to appetite. ”--MILTON. 18 noxious, [text missing] every changed to noxious, and that every based on comparison with a different edition of the book 31 “For instance: changed to For instance: 32 shoulder of mutton, ” changed to “shoulder of mutton, ” 33 BOILED; changed to BOILED;” Fn. 15-* WATERHOUSE’ changed to WATERHOUSE’S Fn. 17-* A. C. , _Jun. _ changed to _A. C. , Jun. _ Fn. 20-* DR. CHEYNE changed to Dr. CHEYNE FN. 30-* l’esprit du corps changed to l’esprit de corps 43 (No. 530. [+]) changed to (No. 530. *) 48 your enemies. ’ changed to your enemies. ” 56 head. (No. Changed to head (No. 62 DIAL (all caps) changed to DIAL (small caps) Fn. 55-* tools. Changed to tools. ” Fn. 66-* pp. 3. 6. Changed to pp. 3, 6. 77 made wtih changed to made with 82 And as now changed to “And as now 85 vigilant attention changed to vigilant attention. 94 eshallot changed to eschalot 96 is delightful changed to is delightful. 98 made (No. 185* changed to made (No. 185 Fn. 91-* No 440 changed to No. 440 Fn. 91-[+] No. 299. Changed to No. 299, Fn. 92-¶ acid milder changed to acid milder. Fn. 93-§ _Monsieur’s_ remarks changed to _Monsieur’s_ remarks, 104 eshalots, changed to eschalots, 109 eshalot changed to eschalot 114 table-spoonsful changed to table-spoonfuls 118 _Ham_, (No. 14. ) changed to _Ham_, --(No. 14. ) 118 Grimmed for table changed to Trimmed for table 120 No. 2 of No. 361 changed to No. 2 of No. 364 123 No. 67* changed to No. 66* 126 quarter changed to quarter. Fn. 123-* _Ibid_ changed to _Ibid. _ Fn. 123-* No. 67* changed to No. 66* 154 No. 521 and No. 91 changed to No. 521 and No. 90 157 escaloped. Changed to escalloped. 173 (NO. 145) changed to (No. 145) 179 beshamell changed to bechamel 183 No. 67. Changed to No. 167. 191 note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 Fn. 168-* same uality changed to same quality 195 beef broth (No. 185*) changed to beef broth (No. 185) 195 see No. 364* changed to see No. 364 201 put in at changed to put in it 204 into this soup. Changed to into this soup, 212 No. 5. Changed to No. 5. ) 213 (No. 329. ) changed to (No. 239. ) Fn. 193-[+] “_The Art of_ changed to _The Art of_ Fn. 219-* The footnote marker was missing from the footnote and was added. Fn. 223-[+] note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 240 with the onions changed to with the onions, 249 beef, (as changed to beef, (as 257 NB. To hash changed to N. B. To hash 257 _minced Veal_ changed to _minced Veal. _ 258 _White Sauce. _ changed to _White Sauce. _-- 262 to the rest” changed to to the rest. ” 263 (No 397) changed to (No. 397) 275 p. 200 changed to p. 200. 281 red, &c; changed to red, &c. ; 292 tea and changed to tea- and 293 into a mug. Changed to into a mug, 295 bottled ale changed to bottled ale. 298 _Jelly. _[298-*] changed to _Jelly. _[298-*]-- 299 2-1/2d. Changed to 2-1/2_d. _ Fn. 278-* which is changed to (which is 304 beef, &c; changed to beef, &c. ; 307 _Mutton Broth_, changed to _Mutton Broth_, -- 309 foot of page 266 changed to foot of page 220 315 see Nos. 185* changed to see Nos. 185 316 the cabbage. ’ changed to the cabbage. ” 317 No. 67* changed to No. 66* 320 wide, _i e. _ changed to wide, _i. E. _ 321 (No. 518. Changed to (No. 518. ) 325 beans, &c changed to beans, &c. 334 accompanied by it. Changed to accompanied by it, 341 _Gipsies’ way. _ changed to _Gipsies’ way. _-- 347 for bakingare changed to for baking are 353 Obs. On Health changed to _Obs. On Health_ Fn. 304-* note to No. 529 changed to note to No. 529* Fn. 314-* mellow changed to mellow. Fn. 338-[+] The night before changed to “The night before 356 Do do. Changed to Do. Do. (line below Roasted (No. 35). ) 356 Broiled. (No. 521). Changed to Broiled (No. 521). 358 Wooodcock changed to Woodcock 359 Feb. & Mar changed to Feb. & Mar. (Broccoli line) 361 _Cut Pastry_ changed to _Cut Pastry. _ 363 No. 455 changed to (No. 455 373 No. 47 changed to No. 47. ) 380 (No. 69. Changed to (No. 69. ) 411 private picking, changed to private picking, ” 414 _fig 3_ changed to _fig. 3_ 415 cutting up of of changed to cutting up of 418 The rips may changed to The ribs may 421 Under Barley, the second and third lines had missing text. It was filled in based on the recipe numbers and confirmed with another edition of the book. ---- broth, ---- ----, 422 (Ap. 119) changed to (Ap. 119. ) 423 538, * 539 changed to 538*, 539 423 tail filletted changed to tail filleted 424 Obs. To 372 260 changed to Obs. To 372 261 424 Eschalot sauce changed to Eschalot sauce, 424 386 ib changed to 386 ib. 425 Sept Heur s changed to Sept Heures 425 note 24 changed to note 23 426 Obs. To 372 260 changed to Obs. To 372 261 427 note 92 changed to note 91 427 (Ap. 121) changed to (Ap. 121. ) 427 &c. (Ap. 7. ) changed to &c. (Ap. 7. ) 430 Spinnage, changed to Spinage, 430 378 ib changed to 378 ib. 430 377 ib changed to 377 ib. 431 Birch s changed to Birch’s

The following words were inconsistently spelled and hyphenated:

 A-la-mode / Alamode back-bone / backbone baine-marie / bainmarie / bain-marie bay-leaf / bay leaf beef-steak / beefsteak bif-teck / bifteck blanc-mange / blancmange chef-d’œuvre / chef d’œuvre cod-fish / codfish craw-fish / crawfish Craw-fish / Crawfish fire-place / fireplace Espagnole / Espagnol Gourmandise / Gourmandize hair-sieve / hair sieve half-pence / halfpence half-penny / halfpenny horse-radish / horseradish _i. E. _ / i. E. Lemon-peel / lemon peel mean time / meantime _Mem. _ / MEM. / _Mem. _-- / MEM. -- merry-thought / merrythought morels / morells / morelles N. B. / N. B. Obs. / Obs. / _obs. _ / _Obs. _ (in-paragraph references) _Obs. _ / _Obs. _-- (beginning of paragraph) over-boiled / overboiled paste-board / pasteboard pepper-corns / peppercorns pyroligneous / pyro-ligneous re-dressed / redressed sauce-pan / saucepan sauce-pans / saucepans scallop / scollop scalloped / scolloped secundùm / secundum sir-loin / sirloin spare-rib / sparerib stew-pan / stewpan stew-pans / stewpans sweet-breads / sweetbreads two-pence / twopence under-side / underside wine-glass / wineglass

Other inconsistencies:

The position of punctuation relative to close parentheses is notconsistent. In some cases, it is inside the parentheses (i. E. ;) or, ))and in other cases it is outside the parentheses (i. E. , ); or ), ). Thisinconsistency has been maintained. 

The position of the * and . In recipe numbers with * is inconsistent. 

There is no fig. 5 in the section on carving. 

Other changes:

The marketing tables for meat (pp. 355 and 356), poultry (pp. 357 and358), and vegetables (pp. 358 and 359) were originally split into twopages because of their length. Each has been joined into a single tablein this version of the book.