SAMUEL F. B. MORSE HIS LETTERS AND JOURNALS IN TWO VOLUMES VOLUME I [Illustration: Samuel F. B. Morse] SAMUEL F. B. MORSE HIS LETTERS AND JOURNALS EDITED AND SUPPLEMENTED BY HIS SON EDWARD LIND MORSE ILLUSTRATED WITH REPRODUCTIONS OF HIS PAINTINGS AND WITH NOTES AND DIAGRAMS BEARING ON THE INVENTION OF THE TELEGRAPH VOLUME I 1914 TO MY WIFE WHOSE LOVING INTEREST AND APT CRITICISM HAVE BEEN TO ME OF GREAT VALUE I DEDICATE THIS WORK "It is the hour of fate, And those who follow me reach every stateMortals desire, and conquer every foeSave death. But they who doubt or hesitate--Condemned to failure, penury and woe--Seek me in vain and uselessly implore. I hear them not, and I return no more. " Ingalls, _Opportunity_. PREFACE Arthur Christopher Benson, in the introduction to his studies inbiography entitled "The Leaves of the Tree, " says:-- "But when it comes to dealing with men who have played upon the whole anoble part in life, whose vision has been clear and whose heart has beenwide, who have not merely followed their own personal ambitions, but havereally desired to leave the world better and happier than they foundit, --in such cases, indiscriminate praise is not only foolish anduntruthful, it is positively harmful and noxious. What one desires to seein the lives of others is some sort of transformation, some evidence ofpatient struggling with faults, some hint of failings triumphed over, some gain of generosity and endurance and courage. To slur over thefaults and failings of the great is not only inartistic: it is alsofaint-hearted and unjust. It alienates sympathy. It substitutes unrealadoration for wholesome admiration; it afflicts the reader, conscious offrailty and struggle, with a sense of hopeless despair in the presence ofanything so supremely high-minded and flawless. " The judgment of a son may, perhaps, be biased in favor of a belovedfather; he may unconsciously "slur over the faults and failings, " and layemphasis only on the virtues. In selecting and putting together theletters, diaries, etc. , of my father, Samuel F. B. Morse, I have tried toavoid that fault; my desire has been to present a true portrait of theman, with both lights and shadows duly emphasized; but I can say withperfect truth that I have found but little to deplore. He was human, hehad his faults, and he made mistakes. While honestly differing from himon certain questions, I am yet convinced that, in all his beliefs, he wasabsolutely sincere, and the deeper I have delved into his correspondence, the more I have been impressed by the true nobility and greatness of theman. His fame is now secure, but, like all great men, he made enemies whopursued him with their calumnies even after his death; and others, perfectly honest and sincere, have questioned his right to be called theinventor of the telegraph. I have tried to give credit where credit isdue with regard to certain points in the invention, but I have also giventhe documentary evidence, which I am confident will prove that he neverclaimed more than was his right. For many years after his invention was aproved success, almost to the day of his death, he was compelled to fightfor his rights; but he was a good fighter, a skilled controversialist, and he has won out in the end. He was born and brought up in a deeply religious atmosphere, in a faithwhich seems to us of the present day as narrow; but, as will appear fromhis correspondence, he was perfectly sincere in his beliefs, andunfalteringly held himself to be an instrument divinely appointed tobestow a great blessing upon humanity. It seems not to be generally known that he was an artist of greatability, that for more than half his life he devoted himself to painting, and that he is ranked with the best of our earlier painters. In my selection of letters to be published I have tried to place muchemphasis on this phase of his career, a most interesting one. I havefound so many letters, diaries, and sketch-books of those earlier years, never before published, that seemed to me of great human interest, that Ihave ventured to let a large number of these documents chronicle thehistory of Morse the artist. Many of the letters here published have already appeared in Mr. S. Irenaeus Prime's biography of Morse, but others are now printed for thefirst time, and I have omitted many which Mr. Prime included. I mustacknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. Prime for the possibility of fillingin certain gaps in the correspondence; and for much interesting materialnot now otherwise obtainable. Before the telegraph had demonstrated its practical utility, its inventorwas subjected to ridicule most galling to a sensitive nature, and afterit was a proved success he was vilified by the enemies he was obliged tomake on account of his own probity, and by the unscrupulous men who triedto rob him of the fruits of his genius; but in this he was only payingthe penalty of greatness, and, as the perspective of time enables us torender a more impartial verdict, his character will be found to emergetriumphant. His versatility and abounding vitality were astounding. He would havebeen an eminent man in his day had he never invented the telegraph; butit is of absorbing interest, in following his career, to note how he wasforced to give up one ambition after another, to suffer blow after blowwhich would have overwhelmed a man of less indomitable perseverance, until all his great energies were impelled into the one channel whichultimately led to undying fame. In every great achievement in the history of progress one man must standpreëminent, one name must symbolize to future generations the thingaccomplished, whether it be the founding of an empire, the discovery of anew world, or the invention of a new and useful art; and this one manmust be so endowed by nature as to be capable of carrying to a successfulissue the great enterprise, be it what it may. He must, in short, be aman of destiny. That he should call to his assistance other men, that heshould legitimately make use of the labors of others, in no wise detractsfrom his claims to greatness. It is futile to say that without this oneor that one the enterprise would have been a failure; that without hisofficers and his men the general could not have waged a successfulcampaign. We must, in every great accomplishment which has influenced thehistory of the world, search out the master mind to whom, under Heaven, the epoch-making result is due, and him must we crown with the laurelwreath. Of nothing is this more true than of invention, for I venture to assertthat no great invention has ever sprung Minerva-like from the brain ofone man. It has been the culmination of the discoveries, the researches, yes, and the failures, of others, until the time was ripe and thedestined man appeared. While due credit and all honor must be given tothe other laborers in the field, the niche in the temple of fame must bereserved for the one man whose genius has combined all the known elementsand added the connecting link to produce the great result. As an invention the telegraph was truly epoch-making. It came at a timewhen steam navigation on land and water was yet in its infancy, and it isidle to speculate on the slow progress which this would have made had itnot been for the assistance of the electric spark. The science of electricity itself was but an academic curiosity, and itwas not until the telegraph had demonstrated that this mysterious forcecould be harnessed to the use of man, that other men of genius arose toextend its usefulness in other directions; and this, in turn, stimulatedinvention in many other fields, and the end is not yet. It has been necessary, in selecting letters, to omit many fully asinteresting as those which have been included; barely to touch onsubjects of research, or of political and religious discussion, which areworthy of being pursued further, and to omit some subjects entirely. Veryprobably another more experienced hand would have made a betterselection, but my aim has been to give, through characteristic lettersand contemporary opinions, an accurate portrait of the man, and asuccinct history of his life and labors. If I have succeeded in throwinga new light on some points which are still the subject of discussion, ifI have been able to call attention to any facts which until now have beenoverlooked or unknown, I shall be satisfied. If I have been compelled touse very plain language with regard to some of those who were his open orsecret enemies, or who have been posthumously glorified by others, I havedone so with regret. Such as it is I send the book forth in the hope that it may add to theknowledge and appreciation of the character of one of the world's greatmen, and that it may, perhaps, be an inspiration to others who arestriving, against great odds, to benefit their fellow men, or to thosewho are championing the cause of justice and truth. EDWARD LIND MORSE. CONTENTS CHAPTER I APRIL 27. 1791--SEPTEMBER 8, 1810 Birth of S. F. B. Morse. --His parents. --Letters of Dr. Belknap and Rev. Mr. Wells. --Phillips, Andover. --First letter. --Letter from his father. --Religious letter from Morse to his brothers. --Letters from the mother toher sons. --Morse enters Yale. --His journey there. --Difficulty in keepingup with his class. --Letter of warning from his mother. --Letters ofJedediah Morse to Bishop of London and Lindley Murray. --Morse becomesmore studious. --Bill of expenses. --Longing to travel and interest inelectricity. --Philadelphia and New York. --Graduates from college. --Wishesto accompany Allston to England, but submits to parents' desires CHAPTER II OCTOBER 31, 1810--AUGUST 17, 1811 Enters bookshop as clerk. --Devotes leisure to painting. --Leaves shop. --Letter to his brothers on appointments at Yale. --Letters from Joseph P. Rossiter. --Morse's first love affair. --Paints "Landing of the Pilgrims. "--Prepares to sail with Allstons for England. --Letters of introductionfrom his father. --Disagreeable stage-ride to New York. --Sails on theLydia. --Prosperous voyage. --Liverpool. --Trip to London. --Observations onpeople and customs. --Frequently cheated. --Critical time in England. --Dr. Lettsom. --Sheridan's verse. --Longing for a telegraph. --A ghost CHAPTER III AUGUST 24, 1811--DECEMBER 1, 1811 Benjamin West. --George III. --Morse begins his studies. --Introduced toWest. --Enthusiasms. --Smuggling and lotteries. --English appreciation ofart. --Copley. --Friendliness of West. --Elgin marbles. --Cries of London. --Custom in knocking. --Witnesses balloon ascension. --Crowds. --VauxhallGardens. --St. Bartholomew's Fair. --Efforts to be economical. --Signs ofwar. --Mails delayed. --Admitted to Royal Academy. --Disturbances, riots, and murders CHAPTER IV JANUARY 18, 1812--AUGUST 6, 1812 Political opinions. --Charles R. Leslie's reminiscences of Morse, Allston, King, and Coleridge. --C. B. King's letter. --Sidney E. Morse's letter. --Benjamin West's kindness. --Sir William Beechy. --Murders, robberies, etc. --Morse and Leslie paint each other's portraits. --The elder Morse'sfinancial difficulties. --He deprecates the war talk. --The son differsfrom his father. --The Prince Regent. --Orders in Council. --Estimate ofWest. --Alarming state of affairs in England. --Assassination of Perceval, Prime Minister. --Execution of assassin. --Morse's love for his art. --Stephen Van Rensselaer. --Leslie the friend and Allston the master. --Afternoon tea. --The elder Morse well known in Europe. --Lord Castlereagh. --The Queen's drawing-room. --Kemble and Mrs. Siddons. --Zachary Macaulay. --Warning letter from his parents. --War declared. --Morse approves. --Gratitude to his parents, and to Allston CHAPTER V SEPTEMBER 20, 1812--JUNE 13, 1813 Models the "Dying Hercules. "--Dreams of greatness. --Again expressesgratitude to his parents. --Begins painting of "Dying Hercules. "--Letterfrom Jeremiah Evarts. --Morse upholds righteousness of the war. --HenryThornton. --Political discussions. --Gilbert Stuart. --William Wilberforce. --James Wynne's reminiscences of Morse, Coleridge, Leslie, Allston, andDr. Abernethy. --Letters from his mother and brother. --Letters fromfriends on the state of the fine arts in America. --"The Dying Hercules"exhibited at the Royal Academy. --Expenses of painting. --Receives AdelphiGold Medal for statuette of Hercules. --Mr. Dunlap's reminiscences. --Critics praise "Dying Hercules" CHAPTER VI JULY 10, 1813--APRIL 6, 1814 Letter from the father on economies and political views. --Morsedeprecates lack of spirit in New England and rejoices at Wellington'svictories. --Allston's poems. --Morse coat-of-arms. --Letter of JosephHillhouse. --Letter of exhortation from his mother. --Morse wishes to staylonger in Europe. --Amused at mother's political views. --The father sendsmore money for a longer stay. --Sidney exalts poetry above painting. --Hismother warns him against infidels and actors. --Bristol. --Optimism. --Letter on infidels and his own religious observances. --Future of Americanart. --He is in good health, but thin. --Letter from Mr. Visger. --BenjaminBurritt, American prisoner. --Efforts in his behalf unsuccessful. --Captureof Paris by the Allies. --Again expresses gratitude to parents. --Writes aplay for Charles Mathews. --Not produced CHAPTER VII MAY 2, 1814--OCTOBER 11, 1814 Allston writes encouragingly to the parents. --Morse unwilling to be mereportrait-painter. --Ambitious to stand at the head of his profession. --Desires patronage, from wealthy friends. --Delay in the mails. --Account of_entrée_ of Louis XVIII into London. --The Prince Regent. --Indignation atacts of English. --His parents relieved at hearing from him after sevenmonths' silence. --No hope of patronage from America. --His brothers. --Account of fêtes. --Emperor Alexander, King of Prussia, Blücher, Platoff. --Wishes to go to Paris. --Letter from M. Van Schaick about battle of LakeErie. --Disgusted with England CHAPTER VIII NOVEMBER 9, 1814--APRIL 23, 1815 Does not go to Paris. --Letter of admonition from his mother. --Hisparents' early economies. --Letter from Leslie. --Letter from Rev. S. F. Jarvis on politics. --The mother tells of the economies of another youngAmerican, Dr. Parkman. --The son resents constant exhortations toeconomize, and tells of meanness of Dr. Parkman. --Writes of his owneconomies and industry. --Disgusted with Bristol. --Prophesies peacebetween England and America. --Estimates of Morse's character by Dr. Romeyn and Mr. Van Schaick. --The father regrets reproof of son forpolitical views. --Death of Mrs. Allston. --Disagreeable experience inBristol. --More economies. --Napoleon I. --Peace CHAPTER IX MAY 8, 1815--OCTOBER 18, 1816 Decides to return home in the fall. --Hopes to return to Europe in ayear. --Ambitions. --Paints "Judgment of Jupiter. "--Not allowed to competefor premium. --Mr. Russell's portrait. --Reproof of his parents. --Battle ofWaterloo. --Wilberforce. --Painting of "Dying Hercules" received byparents. --Much admired. --Sails for home. --Dreadful voyage lastingfifty-eight days. --Extracts from his journal. --Home at last CHAPTER X APRIL 10, 1816--OCTOBER 5, 1818 Very little success at home. --Portrait of ex-President John Adams. --Letter to Allston on sale of his "Dead Man restored to Life. "--Alsoapologizes for hasty temper. --Reassured by Allston. --Humorous letter fromLeslie. --Goes to New Hampshire to paint portraits. --Concord. --Meets MissLucretia Walker. --Letters to his parents concerning her. --His parentsreply. --Engaged to Miss Walker. --His parents approve. --Many portraitspainted. --Miss Walker's parents consent. --Success in Portsmouth. --Morseand his brother invent a pump. --Highly endorsed by President Day and EliWhitney. --Miss Walker visits Charlestown. --Morse's religiousconvictions. --More success in New Hampshire. --Winter in Charleston, SouthCarolina. --John A. Alston. --Success. --Returns north. --Letter from hisuncle Dr. Finley. --Marriage CHAPTER XI NOVEMBER 19, 1818--MARCH 31, 1821 Morse and his wife go to Charleston, South Carolina. --Hospitablyentertained and many portraits painted. --Congratulates Allston on hiselection to the Royal Academy. --Receives commission to paint PresidentMonroe. --Trouble in the parish at Charlestown. --Morse urges his parentsto leave and come to Charleston. --Letters of John A. Alston. --Return tothe North. --Birth of his first child. --Dr. Morse and his family decide tomove to New Haven. --Morse goes to Washington. --Paints the President underdifficulties. --Hospitalities. --Death of his grandfather. --Dr. Morseappointed Indian Commissioner. --Marriage of Morse's future mother-in-law. --Charleston again. --Continued success. --Letters to Mrs. Ball. --Liberality of Mr. Alston. --Spends the summer in New Haven. --Returns toCharleston, but meets with poor success. --Assists in founding Academy ofArts, which has but a short life. --Goes North again CHAPTER XII MAY 23, 1821--DECEMBER 17, 1824 Accompanies Mr. Silliman to the Berkshires. --Takes his wife and daughterto Concord, New Hampshire. --Writes to his wife from Boston about abonnet. --Goes to Washington, D. C. --Paints large picture of House ofRepresentatives. --Artistic but not financial success. --Donates fivehundred dollars to Yale. --Letter from Mr. De Forest. --New York"Observer. "--Discouragements. --First son born. --Invents marble-carvingmachine. --Goes to Albany. --Stephen Van Rensselaer. --Slight encouragementin Albany. --Longing for a home. --Goes to New York. --Portrait ofChancellor Kent. --Appointed attaché to Legation to Mexico. --High hopes. --Takes affecting leave of his family. --Rough journey to Washington. --Expedition to Mexico indefinitely postponed. --Returns North. --Settles inNew York. --Fairly prosperous CHAPTER XIII JANUARY 4, 1825--NOVEMBER 18, 1825 Success in New York. --Chosen to paint portrait of Lafayette. --Hope of apermanent home with his family. --Meets Lafayette in Washington. --Mutuallyattracted. --Attends President's levee. --Begins portrait of Lafayette. --Death of his wife. --Crushed by the news. --His attachment to her. --Epitaphcomposed by Benjamin Silliman. --Bravely takes up his work again. --Finishes portrait of Lafayette. --Describes it in letter of a later date. --Sonnet on death of Lafayette's dog. --Rents a house in Canal Street, NewYork. --One of the founders of National Academy of Design. --Tactfulresolutions on organization. --First thirty members. --Morse elected firstpresident. --Reëlected every year until 1845. --Again made president in1861. --Lectures on Art. --Popularity CHAPTER XIV JANUARY 1, 1826--DECEMBER 5, 1829 Success of his lectures, the first of the kind in the United States. --Difficulties of his position as leader. --Still longing for a home. --Verybusy but in good health. --Death of his father. --Estimates of Dr. Morse. --Letters to his mother. --Wishes to go to Europe again. --Delivers addressat first anniversary of National Academy of Design. --Professor Danalectures on electricity. --Morse's study of the subject. --Moves to No. 13Murray Street. --Too busy to visit his family. --Death of his mother. --Aremarkable woman. --Goes to central New York. --A serious accident. --Moralreflections. --Prepares to go to Europe. --Letter of John A. Dix. --Sailsfor Liverpool. --Rough voyage. --Liverpool CHAPTER XV DECEMBER 6. 1829--FEBRUARY 6, 1830 Journey from Liverpool to London by coach. --Neatness of the cottages. --Trentham Hall. --Stratford-on-Avon. --Oxford. --London. --Charles R. Leslie. --Samuel Rogers. --Seated with Academicians at Royal Academy lecture. --Washington Irving. --Turner. --Leaves London for Dover. --CanterburyCathedral. --Detained at Dover by bad weather. --Incident of a formervisit. --Channel steamer. --Boulogne-sur-Mer. --First impressions ofFrance. --Paris. --The Louvre. --Lafayette. --Cold in Paris. --ContinentalSunday. --Leaves Paris for Marseilles in diligence. --Intense cold. --Dijon. --French funeral. --Lyons. --The Hôtel Dieu. --Avignon. --Catholicchurch services. --Marseilles. --Toulon. --The navy yard and the galleyslaves. --Disagreeable experience at an inn. --The Riviera. --Genoa CHAPTER XVI FEBRUARY 6, 1830--JUNE 15, 1830 Serra Palace in Genoa. --Starts for Rome. --Rain in the mountains. --Abrigand. --Carrara. --First mention of a railroad. --Pisa. --The leaningtower. --Rome at last. --Begins copying at once. --Notebooks. --Ceremonies atthe Vatican. --Pope Pius VIII. --Academy of St. Luke's. --St. Peter's. --Chiesa Nuova. --Painting at the Vatican. --Beggar monks. --_Festa_ of theAnnunciation. --Soirée at Palazzo Sunbaldi. --Passion Sunday. --HoraceVernet. --Lying in state of a cardinal. --_Miserere_ at Sistine Chapel. --Holy Thursday at St. Peter's. --Third cardinal dies. --Meets Thorwaldsen atSignor Persianis's. --Manners of English, French, and Americans. --Landi'spictures. --Funeral of a young girl. --Trip to Tivoli, Subiaco. --Processionof the _Corpus Domini_. --Disagreeable experience CHAPTER XVII JUNE 17, 1830--FEBRUARY 2, 1831 Working hard. --Trip to Genzano. --Lake of Nemi. --Beggars. --Curiousfestival of flowers at Genzano. --Night on the Campagna. --Heat in Rome. --Illumination of St. Peter's. --St. Peter's Day. --Vaults of the Church. --Feebleness of Pope. --Morse and companions visit Naples, Capri, andAmalfi. --Charms of Amalfi. --Terrible accident. --Flippancy at funerals. --Campo Santo at Naples. --Gruesome conditions. --Ubiquity of beggars. --Convent of St. Martino. --Masterpiece of Spagnoletto. --Returns to Rome. --Paints portrait of Thorwaldsen. --Presented to him in after years by JohnTaylor Johnston. --Given to King of Denmark. --Reflections on the socialevil and the theatre. --Death of the Pope. --An assassination. --TheHonorable Mr. Spencer and Catholicism. --Election of Pope Gregory XVI CHAPTER XVIII FEBRUARY 10, 1831--SEPTEMBER 12, 1831 Historic events witnessed by Morse. --Rumors of revolution. --Danger toforeigners. --Coronation of the new Pope. --Pleasant experience. --Cause ofthe revolution a mystery. --Bloody plot foiled. --Plans to leave forFlorence. --Sends casts, etc. , to National Academy of Design. --LeavesRome. --Dangers of the journey. --Florence. --Description of meeting PrinceRadziwill in Coliseum at Rome. --Copies portraits of Rubens and Titian inFlorence. --Leaves Florence for Venice. --Disagreeable voyage on the Po. --Venice, beautiful but smelly. --Copies Tintoret's "Miracle of the Slave. "--Thunderstorms. --Reflections on the Fourth of July. --Leaves Venice. --Recoaro. --Milan. --Reflections on Catholicism and art. --Como andMaggiore. --The Rigi. --Schaffhausen and Heidelberg. --Evades the quarantineon French border. --Thrilling experience. --Paris CHAPTER XIX SEPTEMBER 18, 1831--SEPTEMBER 21, 1832 Takes rooms with Horatio Greenough. --Political talk with Lafayette. --Riots in Paris. --Letters from Greenough. --Bunker Hill Monument. --Lettersfrom Fenimore Cooper. --Cooper's portrait by Verboeckhoven. --Europeancriticisms. --Reminiscences of R. W. Habersham. --Hints of an electrictelegraph. --Not remembered by Morse. --Early experiments in photography. --Painting of the Louvre. --Cholera in Paris. --Baron von Humboldt. --Morsepresides at Fourth of July dinner. --Proposes toast to Lafayette. --Letterto New York "Observer" on Fenimore Cooper. --Also on pride in Americancitizenship. --Works with Lafayette in behalf of Poles. --Letter fromLafayette. --Morse visits London before sailing for home. --Sits to Lesliefor head of Sterne CHAPTER XX Morse's life almost equally divided into two periods, artistic andscientific. --Estimate of his artistic ability by Daniel Huntington. --Alsoby Samuel Isham. --His character as revealed by his letters, notes, etc. --End of Volume I ILLUSTRATIONS MORSE THE ARTIST (Photogravure) Painted by himself in London about 1814. HOUSE IN WHICH MORSE WAS BORN, IN CHARLESTOWN, MASS. REV. JEDEDIAH MORSE AND S. F. B. MORSE--ELIZABETH ANN MORSE AND SIDNEY E. MORSE From portraits by a Mr. Sargent, who also painted portraits of the Washington family. THE DYING HERCULES Painted by Morse in 1813. LETTER OF MORSE TO HIS PARENTS, OCTOBER 18, 1815. MR. D. C. DE FOREST--MRS. D. C. DE FOREST From paintings by Morse now in the gallery of the Yale School of the Fine Arts. LUCRETIA PICKERING WALKER, WIFE or S. F. B. MORSE, AND TWO CHILDREN Painted by Morse. STUDY FOR PORTRAIT OF LAFAYETTE Now in New York Public Library. ELIZABETH A. MORSE Painted by Morse. JEREMIAH EVARTS From a portrait painted by Morse and owned by Sherman Evarts, Esq. DE WITT CLINTON Painted by Morse. Owned by the Metropolitan Museum, New York. HENRY CLAY Painted by Morse. Owned by the Metropolitan Museum, New York. SUSAN W. MORSE. ELDEST DAUGHTER OF THE ARTIST SAMUEL F. B. MORSE HIS LETTERS AND JOURNALS CHAPTER I APRIL 27. 1791--SEPTEMBER 8, 1810 Birth of S. F. B. Morse. --His parents. --Letters of Dr. Belknap and Rev. Mr. Wells. --Phillips, Andover. --First letter. --Letter from his father. --Religious letter from Morse to his brothers. --Letters from the mother toher sons. --Morse enters Yale. --His journey there. --Difficulty in keepingup with his class. --Letter of warning from his mother. --Letters ofJedediah Morse to Bishop of London and Lindley Murray. --Morse becomesmore studious. --Bill of expenses. --Longing to travel and interest inelectricity. --Philadelphia and New York. --Graduates from college. --Wishesto accompany Allston to England, but submits to parents' desires. Samuel Finley Breese Morse was born in Charlestown, Massachusetts, on the27th day of April, A. D. 1791. He came of good Puritan stock, his father, Jedediah Morse, being a militant clergyman of the Congregational Church, a fighter for orthodoxy at a time when Unitarianism was beginning toundermine the foundations of the old, austere, childlike faith. These battles of the churches seem far away to us of the twentiethcentury, but they were very real to the warriors of those days, and, while many of the tenets of their faith may seem narrow to us, they weregospel to the godly of that tune, and reverence, obedience, filial piety, and courtesy were the rule and not the exception that they are to-day. Jedediah Morse was a man of note in his day, known and respected at homeand abroad; the friend of General Washington and other founders of theRepublic; the author of the first American Geography and Gazetteer. Hiswife, Elizabeth Ann Breese, granddaughter of Samuel Finley, president ofPrinceton College, was a woman of great strength and yet sweetness ofcharacter; adored by her family and friends, a veritable mother inIsrael. Into this serene home atmosphere came young Finley Morse, the eldest ofeleven children, only three of whom survived their infancy. The other twowere Sidney Edwards and Richard Carey, both eminent men in their day. Dr. Belknap, of Boston, in a letter to a friend in New York says:-- "Congratulate the Monmouth Judge [Mr. Breese] on the birth of agrandson. . . . As to the child, I saw him asleep, so can say nothing of hiseye or his genius peeing through it. He may have the sagacity of a Jewishrabbi, or the profundity of a Calvin, or the sublimity of a Homer foraught I know. But time will show forth all things. " This sounds almost prophetic in the light of future days. [Illustration: HOUSE IN WHICH MORSE WAS BORN, IN CHARLESTOWN, MASS. ] The following letter from the Reverend Mr. Wells is quaint andcharacteristic of the times:-- MY DEAR LITTLE BOY, --As a small testimony of my respect and obligation toyour excellent Parents and of my love to you, I send you with this six(6) English Guineas. They are pretty playthings enough, and in theCountry I came from many people are fond of them. Your Papa will let youlook at them and shew them to Edward, and then he will take care of them, and, by the time you grow up to be a Man, they will under Papa's wisemanagement increase to double their present number. With wishing you maynever be in want of such playthings and yet never too fond of them, Iremain your affectionate friend, WM. WELLS. MEDFORD, July 2, 1793. Young Morse was sent away early to boarding-school, as was the custom atthat time. He was taken by his father to Phillips Academy at Andover, andI believe he ran away once, being overcome by homesickness before he madeup his mind to remain and study hard. The following letter is the first one written by him of which I have anyknowledge:-- ANDOVER, 2d August, 1799. DEAR PAPA, --I hope you are well I will thank you if you will Send me upSome quils Give my love to mama and NANCY and my little brothers pleas tokis them for me and send me up Some very good paper to write to you I have as many blackberries as I want I go and pick them myself. SAMUEL FINLEY BREESE MORSEYOUR SON1799. This from his father is characteristic of many written to him and to hisbrothers while they were at school and college:-- CHARLESTOWN, February 21, 1801. MY DEAR SON, --You do not write me as often as you ought. In your next youmust assign some reason for this neglect. Possibly I have not receivedall your letters. Nothing will improve you so much in epistolary writingas practice. Take great pains with your letters. Avoid vulgar phrases. Study to have your ideas pertinent and correct and clothe them in an easyand grammatical dress. Pay attention to your spelling, pointing, the useof capitals, and to your handwriting. After a little practice thesethings will become natural and you will thus acquire a habit of writingcorrectly and well. General Washington was a remarkable instance of what I have nowrecommended to you. His letters are a perfect model for epistolarywriters. They are written with great uniformity in respect to thehandwriting and disposition of the several parts of the letter. I willshow you some of his letters when I have the pleasure of seeing you nextvacation, and when I shall expect to find you much improved. Your natural disposition, my dear son, renders it proper for me earnestlyto recommend to you to _attend to one thing at a time_. It is impossiblethat you can do two things well at the same time, and I would, therefore, never have you attempt it. Never undertake to do what ought not to bedone, and then, whatever you undertake, endeavor to do it in the bestmanner. It is said of De Witt, a celebrated statesman in Holland, who was torn topieces in the year 1672, that he did the whole business of the republicand yet had time left to go to assemblies in the evening and sup incompany. Being asked how he could possibly find time to go through somuch business and yet amuse himself in the evenings as he did, heanswered there was nothing so easy, for that it was only doing one thingat a time, and never putting off anything till to-morrow that could bedone to-day. This steady and undissipated attention to one object is asure mark of a superior genius, as hurry, bustle, and agitation are thenever-failing symptoms of a weak and frivolous mind. I expect you will read this letter over several times that you may retainits contents in your memory, and give me your own opinion on the advice Ihave given you. If you improve this well, I shall be encouraged to giveyou more as you may need it. Your affectionate parent, J. MORSE. This was written to a boy ten years old. I wonder if he was really ableto assimilate it. I shall pass rapidly over the next few years, for, while there are manyletters which make interesting reading, there are so many more of thelater years of greater historical value that I must not yield to thetemptation to linger. The three brothers were all sent to Phillips Academy to prepare for Yale, from which college their father was also graduated. The following letter from Finley to his brothers was written while he wastemporarily at home, and shows the deep religious bent of his mind whichhe kept through life:-- CHARLESTOWN, March 15, 1805. MY DEAR BROTHERS, --I now write you again to inform you that mama had ababy, but it was born dead and has just been buried. Now you have threebrothers and three sisters in heaven and I hope you and I will meet themthere at our death. It is uncertain when we shall die, but we ought to beprepared for it, and I hope you and I shall. I read a question in Davie's "Sermons" the last Sunday which was this:--Suppose a bird should take one dust of this earth and carry it away oncein a thousand years, and you was to take your choice either to bemiserable in that time and happy hereafter, or happy in that time andmiserable hereafter, which would you choose? Write me an answer to thisin your next letter. . . . I enclose you a little book called the "Christian Pilgrim. " It is forboth of you. We are all tolerable well except mama, though she is more comfortable nowthan she was. We all send a great deal of love to you. I must now bid youadieu. I remain your affectionate brother, S. F. B. MORSE. I am tempted to include the following extracts from letters of the goodmother of the three boys as characteristic of the times and people:-- CHARLESTOWN, June 28, 1805. MY DEAR SON, --We have the pleasure of a letter from you which hasgratified us very much. It is the only intelligence we have had from yousince Mr. Brown left you. I began to think that something was the matterwith respect to your health that occasioned your long silence. . . . We arevery desirous, my son, that you should excel in everything that will makeyou truly happy and useful to your fellow men. In particular by no meansneglect your duty to your Heavenly Father. Remember, what has been saidwith great truth, that he can never be faithful to others who is not soto his God and his conscience. I wish you constantly to keep in mind thefirst question and answer in that excellent form of sound words, theAssembly Catechism, viz:--"What is the chief end of Man?" The answer youwill readily recollect is "To Glorify God and enjoy Him forever. " Let it be evident, my dear son, that this be your chief aim in all thatyou do, and may you be so happy as to enjoy Him forever is the sincereprayer of your affectionate parent. . . . The Fourth of July is to be celebrated here with a good deal of paradeboth by Federalists and Jacobins. The former are to meet in ourmeeting-house, there to hear an oration which is to be delivered by Mr. Aaron Putnam, a prayer by your papa also. And on the hill close by themonument [Bunker Hill] a standard is to be presented to a new companycalled the Warren Phalanx, all Federalists, by Dr. Putnam who is thepresident of the day, and all the gentlemen are to dine at Seton's Hall, otherwise called Massachusetts Hall, and the ladies are to take tea atthe same place. The Jacobins are to have an oration at the Baptistmeeting-house from Mr. Gleson. I know nothing more about them. The boysare forming themselves into companies also; they have two or threecompanies and drums which at some times are enough to craze one. I can'thelp thinking when I see them how glad I am that my sons are betteremployed at Andover than beating the streets or drums; that they arelaying in a good store of useful knowledge against the time to come, while these poor boys, many of them, at least, are learning what theywill be glad by and by to unlearn. July 30, 1805. MY DEAR SONS, --Have you heard of the death of young Willard at Cambridge, the late President Willard's son? He died of a violent fever occasionedby going into water when he was very hot in the middle of the day. Healso pumped a great deal of cold water on his head. Let this be a warningto you all not to be guilty of the like indiscretion which may cost youyour life. Dreadful, indeed, would this be to all of us. I wish you wouldnot go into water oftener than once a week, and then either early in themorning or late in the afternoon, and not go in when hot nor stay long inthe water. Remember these cautions of your mama and obey them strictly. A young lady twenty years old died in Boston yesterday very suddenly. Sheeat her dinner perfectly well and was dead in five minutes after. Hername was Ann Hinkley. You see, my dear boys, the great uncertainty oflife and, of course, the importance of being always prepared for _death_, even a _sudden death_, as we know not what an hour may bring forth. Thiswe are sensible of, we cannot be _too soon or too well_ prepared for thatall-important moment, as this is what we are sent into this world for. The main business of life is to prepare for death. Let us not, then, putoff these most important concerns to an uncertain to-morrow, but let usin earnest attend to the concerns of our precious, never-dying soulswhile we feel ourselves alive. In October, 1805, Finley Morse went to New Haven to enter college, andthe next letter describes the journey from Charlestown, and it was, indeed, a journey in those days. NEW HAVEN, October 22, 1805. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I arrived here yesterday safe and well. The first day Irode as far as Williams' Tavern, and put up there for the night. The nextday I rode as far as Dwight's Tavern in Western, and in the morning, itbeing rainy, Mr. Backus did not set out to ride till late, and, the stagecoming to the door, Mr. B. Thought it a good opportunity to send me toHartford, which he did, and I arrived at Hartford that night and lodgedat Ripley's inn opposite the State House. He treated me very kindly, indeed, wholly on account of my being your son. I was treated more likehis own son than a stranger, for which I shall and ought to be very muchobliged to him. The next morning I hired a horse and chaise of him tocarry me to Weathersfield and arrived at Mr. Marsh's, who was very gladto see me and begged me to stay till S. Barrell went, which was the nextMonday, for his mother would not let him go so soon, she was so glad tosee him. I was sorry to trouble them so much, but, as they desired it, and, as Samuel B. Was not to go till then, I agreed to stay and hope youwill not disapprove it, and am sorry I could not write you sooner torelieve your minds from your anxiety on my account, and am sorry forgiving my good parents so much trouble and expense. You expend and haveexpended a great deal more money upon me than I deserve, and granted me agreat many of my requests, and I am sure I can certainly grant you one, that of being _economical_, which I shall certainly be and not get moneyto buy trifling things. I begin to think _money_ of some importance andtoo great value to be thrown away. Yesterday morning about ten o'clock I set out for New Haven with S. Barrell and arrived well a little before dark. I went directly to Dr. Dwight's, which I easily found, and delivered the letter to him, dranktea at his house, and then Mr. Sereno Dwight carried me to Mr. Davis'swho had agreed to take me. While I was at Dr. Dwight's there was a womanthere whom the Dr. Recommended to Sam. B. And me to have our mendingdone, and Mrs. Davis or a washerwoman across the way will do my washing, so I am very agreeably situated. I also gave the letter to Mr. Beers andhe has agreed to let me have what you desired. I have got Homer's Iliadin two volumes, with Latin translation of him, for $3. 25. I need no otherbooks at present. S. Barrell has a room in the north college and, as he says, a veryagreeable chum. Next spring I hope you will come on and fix matters. I long to get intothe college, for it appears to me now as though I was not a member ofcollege but fitting for college. I hope next spring will soon come. My whole journey from Charlestown here cost me £2 16_s. _, and 4_d. _, agreat deal more than either you or I had calculated on. I am sorry to beof so much trouble to you and the cause of so much anxiety in you andespecially in mama. I wish you to give my very affectionate love to mydear brothers, and tell them they must write me and not be homesick, butconsider that I am farther from home than they are, 136 miles from home. I remain Your ever affectionate son, S. F. B. MORSE. It would seem, from other letters which follow, that he had difficulty inkeeping up with his class, and that he eventually dropped a class, for hedid not graduate until 1810. He also seems to have been rooming outsideof college and to have been eager to go in. It is curious, in the light of future events, to note that young Morse'sparents were fearful lest his volatile nature and lack of steadfastnessof purpose should mar his future career. His dominating characteristic inlater life was a bulldog tenacity, which led him to stick to one ideathrough discouragements and disappointments which would have overwhelmeda weaker nature. The following extracts are from a long letter from his mother datedNovember 23, 1805:-- "I am fearful, my son, that you think a great deal more of youramusements than your studies, and there lies the difficulty, and the samedifficulty would exist were you in college. "You have filled your letter with requests to go into college and anaccount of a gunning party, both of which have given us pain. I am trulysorry that you appear so unsteady as by _your own account_ you are. . . . "You mention in the letter you wrote first that, if you went intocollege, you and your chum would want brandy and wine and segars in yourroom. Pray is that the custom among the students? We think it a veryimproper one, indeed, and hope the government of college will not permitit. There is no propriety at all in such young boys as you havinganything to do with anything of the kind, and your papa and myselfpositively prohibit you the use of these things till we think them morenecessary than we do at present. . . . "You will remember that you have promised in your first letter to be aneconomist. In your last letter you seem to have forgotten all about it. Pray, what do your gunning parties cost you for powder and shot? I begyou to consider and not go driving on from one foolish whim to anothertill you provoke us to withdraw from you the means of gratifying you inanything that may be even less objectionable than gunning. " These exhortations seem to have had, temporarily, at least, the desiredeffect, for in a letter to his parents dated December 18, 1805, youngMorse says: "I shall not go out to gun any more, for I know it makes youanxious about me. " The letters of the parents to the son are full of pious exhortations, andgood advice, and reproaches to the boy for not writing oftener and moreat length, and for not answering every question asked by the parents. Itis comforting to the present-day parent to learn that human nature wasmuch the same in those pious days of old, differing only in degree, andthat there is hope for the most wayward son and careless correspondent. The following letters from the elder Morse I shall include as being ofrather more than ordinary interest, and as showing the breadth of hisactivity. CHARLESTOWN, December 23, 1806. To THE BISHOP OP LONDON, REV'D AND RESPECTED SIR, --I presume that it might be agreeable to you toknow the precise state of the property which originally belonged to theProtestant Episcopal Church in Virginia. I have with some pains obtained the law of that State respecting thissingular business. I find that it destroys _the establishment_ and asserts that "allproperty belonging to the said (Protestant Episcopal) Church devolved onthe good people of this Commonwealth (i. E. , Virginia) on the dissolutionof the British Government here, in the same degree in which the right andinterest of the said Church was therein derived from them, " andauthorizes the overseers of the poor of any county "in which any glebeland is vacant, or shall become so by the death or removal of anyincumbent, to sell all such land and appurtenances and every otherspecies of property incident thereto to the highest bidder"--"Providedthat nothing herein contained shall authorize an appropriation to _anyreligious purpose whatever_. " I make no comments on the above. I believe no other State in the Unionhas, in this respect, imitated the example of Virginia. I take the liberty to send you a few small tracts for your acceptance intoken of my high respect for your character and services. Believe me, sir, unfeignedly, Your obedient servant, J. MORSE. December 26, 1806. LINDLEY MURRAY ESQ. , DEAR SIR, --Your polite note and the valuable books accompanying it, forwarded by our friend Perkins, of New York, have been duly andgratefully received. You will perceive, by the number of the "Panoplist" enclosed, that we arestrangers neither to your works nor your character. It has given me muchpleasure as an American to make both more extensively known among mycountrymen. I have purchased several hundred of your spelling books for a charitablesociety to which I belong, and they have been dispersed in the newsettlements in our country, where I hope they will do immediate good, besides creating a desire and demand for more. It will ever give mepleasure to hear from you when convenient. Letters left at Mr. Taylor'swill find me. I herewith send you two or three pamphlets and a copy of the last editionof my "American Gazetteer" which I pray you to accept as a small token ofthe high respect and esteem with which I am Your friend, J. MORSE. Young Morse now settled down to serious work as the following extractswill show, which I set down without further comment, passing rapidly overthe next few years. He was, however, not entirely absorbed in his booksbut still longed for the pleasures of the chase:-- "May 13, 1807. Just now I asked Mr. Twining to let me go a-gunning forthis afternoon. He told me you had expressly forbidden it and hetherefore could not. Now I should wish to go once in a while, for Ialways intend to be careful. I have no amusement now in the vacation, andit would gratify me very much if you would consent to let me go once in awhile. I suppose you would tell me that my books ought to be myamusement. I cannot study all the time and I need some exercise. If Iwalk, that is no amusement, and if I wish to play ball or anything else, I have no one to play with. Please to write me an answer as soon as"possible. June 7, 1807. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I hope you will excuse my not writing you sooner when Iinform you that my time is entirely taken up with my studies. In the morning I must rise at five o'clock to attend prayers and, immediately after, recitation; then I must breakfast and begin to studyfrom eight o'clock till eleven; then recite my forenoon's lesson whichtakes me an hour. At twelve I must study French till one, which is dinner-time. Directlyafter dinner I must recite French to Monsieur Value till two o'clock, then begin to study my afternoon lesson and recite it at five. Immediately after recitation I must study another French lesson to reciteat seven in the evening; come home at nine o'clock and study my morning'slesson until ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve o'clock, and by that tineI am prepared to sleep. . . . You see now I have enough to do, my hands asfull as can be, not five minutes' time to take recreation. I amdetermined to study and, thus far, have not missed a single word. Thestudents call me by the nickname of "Geography. " "_June 18, 1807. _ Last week I went to Mr. Beers and saw a set ofMontaigne's 'Essays' in French in eight volumes, duodecimo, handsomelybound in calf and gilt, for two dollars. The reason they are so cheap isbecause they are wicked and bad books for me or anybody else to read. Igot them because they were cheap, and have exchanged them for a handsomeEnglish edition of 'Gil Blas'; price, $4. 50. " In the fall of 1807 Finley Morse returned to college accompanied by hisnext younger brother, Sidney Edwards. In a letter of March 6, 1808, hesays: "Edwards and myself are very well and I believe we are doing well, but you will learn more of that from our instructors. " In this same letter he says:-- "I find it impossible to live in college without spending money. At onetime a letter is to be paid for, then comes up a great tax from the classor society, which keeps me constantly running after money. When I havemoney in my hand I feel as though I had stolen it, and it is with thegreatest pain that I part with it. I think every minute I shall receive aletter from home blaming me for not being more economical, and thus I amkept in distress all the time. "The amount of my expenses for the last term was fifteen dollars, expended in the following manner:-- Dols. Cts. "Postage $2. 05Oil . 50Taxes, fines, etc. 3. 00Oysters . 50Washbowl . 37-1/2Skillet . 33Axe $1. 33 Catalogues . 12 1. 45Powder and shot 1. 12-1/2Cakes, etc. Etc. Etc. 1. 75Wine, Thanks. Day . 20Toll on bridge . 15Grinding axe . 08Museum . 25Poor man . 14Carriage for trunk 1. 00Pitcher . 41 14. 75-1/2Sharpening skates . 37-1/2 Paid forCirc. Library . 25 cutting wood . 25Post papers . 57Lent never to be returned . 25 $14. 75-1/2 15. 00-1/2 "In my expenses I do not include my wood, tuition bills, board or washingbills. " How characteristic of all boys of all times the "etc. , etc. , etc. , "tacked on to the "cakes" item, and how many boys of the present day wouldbewail the extravagance of fifteen dollars spent in one term on extras?In a postscript in this same letter he says: "The students are very fondof raising balloons at present. I will (with your leave) when I returnhome make one. They are pleasant sights. " College terms were very different in those days from what they are atpresent, for September 5 finds the boys still in New Haven, and Finleysays, "There is but three and a half weeks to Commencement. " In this same letter he gives utterance to these filial sentiments: "I nowmake those only my companions who are the most religious and moral, and Ihope sincerely that it will have a good effect in changing thatthoughtless disposition which has ever been a striking trait in mycharacter. As I grow older, I begin to think better of what you havealways told me when I was small. I begin to know by experience that manis born to trouble, and that temptations to do evil are as countless asthe stars, but I hope I shall be enabled to shun them. " This is from a letter of January 9, 1809:-- "I have been reading the first volume of Professor Silliman's 'Journal'which he kept during his passage to and residence in Europe. I am verymuch pleased with it. I long for the time when I shall be able to travelwith improvement to myself and society, and hope it will be in your powerto assist me. "I have a very ardent desire of travelling, but I consider that aneducation is indispensable to me and I mean to apply myself with alldiligence for that purpose. _Diligentia vinrit omnia_ is my maxim and Ishall endeavor to follow it. . . . I shall be employed in the vacation inthe Philosophical Chamber with Mr. Dwight, who is going to perform anumber of experiments in _Electricity_. " It is, of course, only a curious coincidence that these two sentencesshould have occurred in the same letter, but it was when travelling, manyyears afterwards, that the first idea of the electric telegraph foundlodgment in his brain, and this certainly resulted in improvement tohimself and society. In February, 1809, he writes: "My studies are at present Optics inPhilosophy, Dialling, Homer, beside disputing, composing, attendinglectures etc. Etc. , all which I find very interesting and especially Mr. Day's lectures who is now lecturing on _Electricity_. " Young Morse's thoughts seem to have been gradually focusing on the twosubjects to which he afterwards devoted his life, for in a letter ofMarch 8, 1809, he says: "Mr. Day's lectures are very interesting. Theyare upon Electricity. He has given us some very fine experiments. Thewhole class taking hold of hands formed the circuit of communication andwe all received the shock apparently at the same moment. I never took anelectric shock before. It felt as if some person had struck me a slightblow across the arms. . . . I think with pleasure that two thirds of thisterm only remain. As soon as that is passed away, I hope I shall againsee home. I really long to see Charlestown again; I have almost forgottenhow it looks. I have some thoughts of taking a view of Boston fromBunker's Hill when I go home again. It will be some pleasure to me tohave some picture of my native place to look upon when I am from home. " And in August, 1809, he writes to his parents: "I employ all my leisuretime in painting. I have a great number of persons engaged already to bedrawn on ivory, no less than seven. They obtain the ivories forthemselves. I have taken Professor Kingsley's profile for him. It is agood likeness of him and he is pleased with it. I think I shall take hislikeness on ivory and present it to him as my present at the end of theyear. . . . I have finished Miss Leffingwell's miniature. It is a goodlikeness and she is very much pleased with it. " NEW HAVEN, May 29, 1810. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I arrived in this place on Sabbath evening by packetfrom New York. I left Philadelphia on Thursday morning at eight o'clockand arrived in New York on Friday at ten. . . . I stayed in New York but one night. I found it quite insipid after seeingPhiladelphia. [The character of the two cities seems to have changed atrifle in a hundred years, for, with all her faults, no one couldnowadays accuse New York of being insipid. ] I went on board the packet onSaturday at twelve o'clock and arrived, as I before stated, on Sabbathevening. We had, on the whole, a very good set of passengers from NewYork to this place. On Sunday we had two sermons read to us by one ofthem, Dr. Hawley, of this place, and in the evening we sang five psalms, and during the whole of the exercises the passengers conducted themselveswith perfect decorum, although one of the sermons was one hour inlength. . . . June 25, 1810. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I received yours of the 23d this day and receive withhumility your reproof. I am extremely sorry it should have occasioned somany disagreeable feelings. I felt it my duty to tell you of my debts, and, indeed, I could not feel easy without. The amount of my buttery billis forty-two or forty-three dollars. Mr. Nettleton is butler and is willing I should take his likeness as partpay. I shall take it on ivory, and he has engaged to allow me sevendollars for it. My price is five dollars for a miniature on ivory, and. Ihave engaged three or four at that price. My price for profiles is onedollar, and everybody is ready to engage me at that price. . . . Though Ihave been much to blame in the present case, yet I think it but just thatMr. Twining should bear his part. I had begun with a determination to pay for everything as I got it, butwas stopped in this in the very beginning, for, in going to Mr. T. To getmoney, I have five times out of six found him absent, sometimes for thewhole day, sometimes for a week or two weeks, and once he was absent sixweeks and made no sort of provision for us. Mrs. T. Is never trusted withmoney for us. Now in such case I am obliged by necessity to get a thingcharged, and I have found by sad experience that a bill increases fasterthan I had in the least imagined. . . . "_July 22, 1810. _ I am now released from college and am attending topainting. All my class were accepted as candidates for degrees. Edwardsis admitted a member of [Greek: Phi][Greek: Beta][Greek: Kappa] Society, and is appointed as monitor to the next Freshman Class. Richard is chosenas one of the speakers the evening before Commencement. "Edwards and Richard are both of them very steady and good scholars, andare much esteemed by the authority of college as well as their fellowstudents. "As to my choice of a profession, I still think that I was made for apainter, and I would be obliged to you to make such arrangement with Mr. Allston for my studying with him as you shall think expedient. I shoulddesire to study with him during the winter, and, as he expects to returnto England in the spring, I should admire to be able to go with him. " In answer to this letter his father wrote:-- CHARLESTOWN, July 26, 1810. DEAR Finley, --I received your letter of the 22d to-day by mail. On the subject of your future pursuits we will converse when I see youand when you get home. It will be best for you to form no plans. Yourmama and I have been thinking and planning for you. I shall disclose toyou our plan when I see you. Till then suspend your mind. It gives us great pleasure to have you speak so well of your brothers. Others do the same and we hear well of you also. It is a great comfort tous that our sons are all likely to do so well and are in good reputationamong their acquaintances. Could we have reason to believe you were allpious and had chosen the "good part, " our joy concerning you all would befull. I hope the Lord in due time will grant us this pleasure. "Seek the Lord, " my dear son, "while he may be found. " Your affectionate father, J. MORSE. [ILLUSTRATION: ELIZABETH ANN MORSE AND SIDNEY E. MORSEILLUSTRATION: REV. JEDEDIAH MORSE AND S. F. B. MORSEFrom portraits by a Mr. Sargent, who also painted portraits of theWashington family] September 8, 1810. DEAR MAMA, --Papa arrived here safely this evening and I need not tell youwe were glad to see him. He has mentioned to me the plan which heproposed for my future business in life, and I am pleased with it, for Iwas determined beforehand to conform to his and your will in everything, and, when I come home, I shall endeavor to make amends for the troubleand anxiety which you have been at on my account, by assisting papa inhis labors and pursuing with ardor my own business. . . . I have been extremely low-spirited for some days past, and it stillcontinues. I hope it will wear off by Commencement Day. . . . I am so low in spirits that I could almost cry. It was no wonder that he was down-hearted, for he was ambitious andlonged to carve out a great career for himself, while his good parentswere conservative and wished him to become independent as soon aspossible. Their plan was to apprentice him to a bookseller, and hedutifully conformed to their wishes for a time, but his ambition couldnot be curbed, and it was not long before he broke away. CHAPTER II OCTOBER 31, 1810--AUGUST 17. 1811 Enters bookshop as clerk. --Devotes leisure to painting. --Leaves shop. --Letter to his brothers on appointments at Yale. --Letters from Joseph P. Rossiter. --Morse's first love affair. --Paints "Landing of the Pilgrims. "--Prepares to sail with Allstons for England. --Letters of introductionfrom his father. --Disagreeable stage-ride to New York. --Sails on theLydia. --Prosperous voyage. --Liverpool. --Trip to London. --Observations onpeople and customs. --Frequently cheated. --Critical time in England. --Dr. Lettsom. --Sheridan's verse. --Longing for a telegraph. --A ghost After his graduation from Yale College in the fall of 1810, Finley Morsereturned to his home in Charlestown, Mass. , and cheerfully submittedhimself to his parents' wishes by entering the bookshop of a certain Mr. Mallory. He writes under date of October 31, 1810, to his brothers who are stillat college: "I am in an excellent situation and on excellent terms. Ihave four hundred dollars per year, but this you must not mention out. Ihave the choice of my hours; they are from nine till one-half pasttwelve, and from three till sunset. " But he still clings to the idea of becoming a painter, for he adds: "Myevenings I employ in painting. I have every convenience; the room overthe kitchen is fitted up for me; I have a fire there every evening, andcan spend it alone or otherwise as I please. I have bought me one of thenew patent lamps, those with glass chimneys, which gives an excellentlight. It cost me about six dollars. Send on as soon as possible anythingand everything which pertains to my painting apparatus. " The following letter was written at some time in 1810 or 1811. It wasaddressed to Mr. Sereno E. Dwight:-- "Mr. Mallory a few days since handed me a letter from you requesting me, if possible, to sketch a likeness of young Mr. Daggett. Accordingly Ihave made the attempt and take the present opportunity of forwarding youthe results. The task was hard but pleasurable. It is one of the mostdifficult undertakings to endeavor to take a portrait from recollectionof one whose countenance has not been examined particularly for thepurpose. When I made the first attempt, not a single feature could Irecall distinctly to my memory and I almost despaired of a likeness, butthe thought of lessening the affliction of such a distressed familydetermined me to attempt it a second time. The result is on the ivory. Ithen showed it to my brothers, to Mr. Evarts, to Mr. Hillhouse, to Mr. Mallory, and to Mr. Read, all of whom had not the least suspicion ofanything of the kind, and they have severally and separately pronouncedit a likeness of young Mr. Daggett. This encouraged me, and I made thetwo other sketches which are thought likewise to be resemblances of him. "If these or any one of them can be recognized by the afflicted family asa resemblance of him they have lost, it will be an ample compensation tome to think that I have in any degree been the means of alleviating theirsuffering. . . . " On December 8, 1810, he writes to his brother: "I have almost completedmy landscape. It is 'proper handsome, ' so they say, and they want to makeme believe it is so, but I shan't yet awhile. " This shows the right frame of mind for an artist, and yet, like mostyouthful painters, he attempted more than his proficiency warranted, forin this same letter he adds: "I am going to begin, as soon as I havefinished it [the landscape], a piece, the subject of which will be'Marius on the Ruins of Carthage. '" On December 28, 1810, he writes: "I shall leave Mr. Mallory's next weekand study painting exclusively till summer. " He had at last burst his bonds, and his wise parents, seeing that hisheart was only in his painting, decided to throw no further obstacles inhis way, but, at the cost of much self-sacrifice on their part, tofurther in every way his ambition. January 15, 1811. MY DEAR BROTHERS, --We have just received Richard's letter of the 8thinst. , and I can have a pretty correct idea of your feelings at thebeginning of a vacation. You must not be melancholy and hang yourself. Ifyou do you will have a terrible scolding when you get home again. As forRichard's getting an appointment so low, if I was in his situation, Ishould not trouble myself one fig concerning _appointments_. They costmore than they are worth. I shall not esteem him the less for not gettinga higher, and not more than one millionth part of the world knows what anappointment is. You will both of you have a different opinion ofappointments after you have been out of college a short time. I hadrather be Richard with a dialogue than Sanford with a dispute. Ifappointments at college decided your fate forever, you might possiblygroan and wail. But then consider where poor I should come. [He got noappointment whatever. ] Think of this, Richard, and _don't_ hang_yourself_. [It may, perhaps, be well to explain that "appointments" weregiven at Yale to those who excelled in scholarship. "PhilosophicalOration" was the highest, then came "High Oration, " "Oration, " etc. , etc. ] I have left Mr. Mallory's store and am helping papa in theGeography. Shall remain at home till the latter part of next summer andthen shall go to London with Mr. Allston. The following extracts from two letters of a college friend I haveintroduced as throwing some light on Morse's character at that time andalso as curious examples of the epistolary style of those days:-- NEW HAVEN, February 5, 1811. Dear Finley, --Yours of the 6th ult. I received, together with the booksenclosed, which I delivered personally according to your request. Did I not know the nature of your disorder and the state of your_gizzard_, I should really be surprised at the commencement, and, indeed, the whole tenor of your letter, but as it is I can excuse and feel foryou. Had I commenced a letter with the French _Hélas! hélas!_ it would havebeen no more than might reasonably have been expected considering thedesolate situation of New Haven and the gloomy prospects before me. Butfor you, who are in the very vortex of fashionable life and surrounded bythe amusements and bustle of the metropolis of New England, for you toexclaim, "How lonely I am!" is unpardonable, or at most admits of but oneexcuse, to wit, that you can plead the feelings of the youth whoexclaimed, "Gods annihilate both time and space and make two lovershappy!" You suppose I am so much taken up with the ladies and other good thingsin New Haven that I have not time to think of one of my old friends. Alas! Morse, there are no ladies or anything else to occupy my attention. They are all gone and we have no amusements. Even old Value has desertedus, whose music, though an assemblage of "unharmonious sounds, " isinfinitely preferable to the harsh grating thunder of his brother. NewHaven is, indeed, this winter a dreary place. I wrote you about a monthsince and did then what you wish me now to do, --I mentioned all that isworth mentioning, which, by the way, is very little, about New Haven andits inhabitants. Since then I have been to New York and saw the Miss Radcliffs, and, inpassing through Stamford, the Miss Davenports. The mention of the name ofDavenport would at one time have excited in your breast emotionsunutterable, but now, though Ann is as lovely as ever, your heartrequires the influence of another Hart to quicken its pulsations. . . . Lastbut not least comes the all-conquering, the angelic queen of Harts. Ihave not seen her since she left New Haven, but have heard from hersister Eliza that she is in good health and is going in April to New Yorkwith Mrs. Jarvis (her sister) to spend the summer and perhaps a longertime, where she will probably break many a proud heart and bend many astubborn knee. I fear, Morse, unless you have her firmly in your toils, Ifear she may not be able to withstand every attack, for New York aboundswith elegant and accomplished young men. You mention that you have again changed your mind as to the businesswhich you intend to pursue. I really thought that the plan of becoming abookseller would be permanent because sanctioned by parental authority, but I am now convinced that your mind is so much bent upon painting thatyou will do nothing else effectually. It is indeed a noble art and ifpursued effectually leads to the highest eminence, for painters rank withpoets, and to be placed in the scale with Milton and Homer is an honorthat few of mortal mould attain unto. . . . I wish, Finley, that you wouldpaint me a handsome piece for a keepsake as you are going to Europe andmay not be back in a hurry. Present my respects to Mr. Hillhouse. Hisfather's family are well. Adieu. Your affectionate friend, JOS. P. ROSSITER. From this letter and from others we learn that young Morse's youthfulaffections were fixed on a certain charming Miss Jannette Hart, but, alas! he proved a faithless lover, for his friend Rossiter thus reproveshim in a letter of May 8, 1811:-- "Oh! most amazing change! Can it be possible? Oh! Love, and all yecordial powers of passion, forbid it! Still, still the dreadful wordsglare on my sight. Alas! alas! and is it, then, a fact? If so 't ispitiful, 't is wondrous pitiful. Cupid, tear off your bandage, new stringyour bow and tip your arrows with harder adamant. Oh! shame upon you, only hear the words of your exultant votarist--'Even Love, whichaccording to the proverb conquers all things, when put in competitionwith painting, must yield the palm and be a willing captive. ' Oh! fie, fie, good master Cupid, you shoot but poorly if a victim so often woundedcan talk in terms like these. "Poor luckless Jannette! the epithets 'divine' and 'heavenly' which haveso often been applied to thee are now transferred to miserable daubingswith oil and clay. Dame Nature, your triumph has been short. Poor foolishbeldam, you thought, indeed, when you had formed your masterpiece andnamed her Jannette, that unqualified admiration would be extorted fromthe lips of prejudice itself, and that, at least, till age had worn offthe first dazzling lustre from your favorite, your sway would have beenunlimited and your exultation immeasurable. My good old Dame, hear foryour comfort what a foolish, fickle youth has dared to say of yourdarling Jannette, and that while she is yet in the first blush and bloomof virgin loveliness--'_next_ to painting I love Jannette the best. 'Insufferable blasphemy! Hear, O Heavens, and be amazed! Tremble, O Earth, and be horribly afraid!" In spite of this impassioned arraignment, Morse devoted himselfexclusively to his art for the next few years, and we have onlyoccasional references in the letters that follow to his first seriouslove affair. We also hear nothing further of "Marius on the Ruins of Carthage"; but inFebruary, 1811, he writes to his brothers: "I am painting my large piece, the landing of our forefathers at Plymouth. Perhaps I shall have itfinished by the time you come home in the spring. My landscape I finishedsometime since, and it is framed and hung up in the front parlor. " At last in July, 1811, the great ambition of the young man was about tobe realized and he prepared to set sail for England with his friend andmaster, Washington Allston. His father, having once made up his mind toallow his son to follow his bent, did everything possible to further hisambition and assist him in his student years. He gave him many letters ofintroduction to well-known persons in England and France, one of which, to His Excellency C. M. Talleyrand, I shall quote in full. SIR, --I had the honor to introduce to you, some years since, a youngfriend of mine, Mr. Wilder, who has since resided in your country. Yourcivility to him induces me to take the liberty to introduce to you myeldest son, who visits Europe for the purpose of perfecting himself inthe art of painting under the auspices of some of your eminent artists. Should he visit France, as he intends, I shall direct him to pay hisrespects to you, sir, assured that he will receive your protection andpatronage so far as you can with convenience afford them. In thus doing you will much oblige, Sir, with high considerationYour most ob'd't. Serv't, JED. MORSE. In another letter of introduction, to whom I cannot say, as the addresson the copy is lacking, the father says:-- "His parents had designed him for a different profession, but hisinclination for the one he has chosen was so strong, and his talents forit, in the opinion of some good judges, so promising, that we thought itnot proper to attempt to control his choice. "In this country, young in the arts, there are few means of improvement. These are to be found in their perfection only in older countries, and innone, perhaps, greater than in yours. In compliance, therefore, with hisearnest wishes and those of his friend and patron, Mr. Allston (with whomhe goes to London), we have consented to make the sacrifice of feeling(not a small one), and a pecuniary exertion to the utmost of our ability, for the purpose of placing him under the best advantage of becomingeminent in his profession, in hope that he will consecrate hisacquisitions to the glory of God and the best good of his fellow men. " Morse arrived in New York on July 6, 1811, after a several days' journeyfrom Charlestown which he describes as very terrible on account of theheat and dust. People were dying from the heat in New York where thethermometer reached 98° in the shade. He says:-- "My ride to New Haven was beyond everything disagreeable; the sun beatingdown upon the stage (the sides of which we were obliged to shut up onaccount of the sun) which was like an oven, and the wind, instead ofbeing in our faces as papa supposed, was at our back and brought into ourfaces such columns of dust as to hinder us from seeing the other side ofthe stage. "I never was so completely covered with dust in my life before. Mama, perhaps, will think that I experienced some inconvenience from such afatiguing journey, but I never felt better in my life than now. " The optimism of youth when it is doing what it wants to do. He had taken passage on the good ship Lydia with Mr. And Mrs. Allston andsome eleven other passengers, and the sailing of the ship was delayed forseveral days on account of contrary winds, but at last, on July 13, thevoyage was begun. ON BOARD THE LYDIA, OFF SANDY HOOK, July 15, 1811. MY DEAR PARENTS, --After waiting a great length of time I have got underway. We left New York Harbor on Saturday, 13th, about twelve o'clock andwent as far as the quarantine ground on Staten Island, where, on accountof the wind, we waited over Sunday. We are now under sail with the pilot on board. We have a fair wind fromS. S. W. And shall soon be out of sight of land. We have fourteen veryagreeable passengers, an experienced and remarkably pleasant captain, anda strong, large, fast-sailing ship. We expect from twenty-five to thirtydays' passage. . . . We have a piano-forte on board and two gentlemen whoplay elegantly, so we shall have fine times. I am in good spirits, thoughI feel rather singularly to see my native shores disappearing so fast andfor so long a time. I am not yet seasick, but expect to be a little so in a few days. Weshall probably be boarded by a British vessel of war soon; there are anumber off the coast, but they treat American vessels very civilly. He kept a careful diary of the voyage to England and again resumed itwhen he returned to America in 1815. The voyage out was most propitiousand lasted but twenty-two days in all: a very short one for that time. Asthe diary contains nothing of importance relating to the eastern voyage, being simply a record of good weather, fair winds, and pleasantcompanions, I shall not quote from it at present. It was all pleasure to the young man, who had never before been away fromhome, and he sees no reason why people should dread a sea voyage. The journal of the return trip tells a different story, as we shall seelater on, for the passage lasted fifty-seven days, and head winds, gales, and even hurricanes were encountered all the way across, and he wonderswhy any one should go to sea who can remain safely on land. LIVERPOOL, August 7, 1811. MY DEAR PARENTS, --You see from the date that I have at length arrived inEngland. I have had a most delightful passage of twenty days from land toland and two in coming up the channel. As this is a letter merely to inform you of my safe arrival I shall notenter into the particulars of our voyage until I get to London, to whichplace I shall proceed as soon as possible. Suffice it to say that I have not been sick a moment of the passage, but, on the contrary, have never enjoyed my health better. I have not as yetgot my trunks from the custom-house, but presume I shall meet with nodifficulty. I am now at the Liverpool Arms Inn. It is the same inn that Mr. Sillimanput up at; it is, however, very expensive; they charge the enormous sum, I believe, of a guinea or a guinea and a half a day. If I should be detained a day or two in this place I shall endeavor tofind out other lodgings; at present, however, it is unavoidable, as allthe other passengers are at the same place with me. You may rest assuredI shall do everything in my power to be economical, but to avoidimposition of some kind or other cannot be expected, since every one whohas been in England and spoken of the subject to me has been imposed uponin some way or other. You cannot think how many times I have expressed a wish that you knewexactly how I was situated. My passage has been so perfectly agreeable, Iknow not of a single circumstance that has interfered to render itotherwise, through the whole passage. There has been but one day in whichwe have not had fair winds. Mr. And Mrs. Allston are perfectly well. Shehas been seasick, but has been greatly benefited by it. She is growingquite healthy. I have grown about three shades darker in consequence ofmy voyage. I have a great deal to tell you which I must defer till Iarrive in London. . . . Oh! how I wish you knew at this moment that I amsafe and well in England. Good-bye. Do write soon and often as I shall. Your very affectionate son, SAML. F. B. MORSE. Everything was new and interesting to the young artist, and his criticalobservations on people and places, on manners and customs, are naïve andoften very keen. The following are extracts from his diary:-- "As to the manners of the people it cannot be expected that I should forma correct opinion of them since my intercourse with them has been soshort, but, from what little I have seen, I am induced to entertain avery favorable opinion of their hospitality. The appearance of the womenas I met them in the streets struck me on account of the beauty of theircomplexions. Their faces may be said to be handsome, but their figuresare very indifferent and their gait, in walking, is very bad. "On Friday, the 9th of August, I went to the Mayor to get leave to go toLondon. He gave me ten days to get there, and told me, if he found me inLiverpool after that time, he should put me in prison, at which I couldnot help smiling. His name is Drinkwater, but from the appearance of hisface I should judge it might be Drinkbrandy. "On account of his limiting us to ten days we prepared to set out forLondon immediately as we should be obliged to travel slowly. . . . Mr. AndMrs. Allston and myself ordered a post-chaise, and at twelve o'clock weset out for Manchester, intending to stay there the first night. . . . Thepeople, great numbers of whom we passed, had cheerful, healthycountenances; they were neat in their dress and appeared perfectlyhappy. . . . "Much has been said concerning the miserable state in which the lowerclass of people live in England but especially in large manufacturingcities. That they are so unhappy as some would think I conceive to beerroneous. We are apt to suppose people are unhappy for the reason that, were we taken from our present situation of independence and placed intheir situation of dependence, we should be unhappy; not considering thatcontentment is the foundation of happiness. As far as my own observationextends, and from what I can learn on inquiry, the lower class of peoplegenerally are contented. N. B. I have altered my opinion since writingthis. . . . "Thus far on our journey we have had a very pleasant time. There is greatdifference I find in the treatment of travellers. They are treatedaccording to the style in which they travel. If a man arrives at the doorof an inn in a stage-coach, he is suffered to alight without notice, andit is taken for granted that common fare will answer for him. But if hecomes in a post-chaise, the whole inn is in an uproar; the whole housecome to the door, from the landlord down to boots. One holds his hand tohelp you to alight, another is very officious in showing you to theparlor, and another gets in the baggage, whilst the landlord and landladyare quite in a bustle to know what the gentleman will please to have. This attention, however, is very pleasant, you are sure to be waited uponwell and can have everything you will call for, and that of the nicestkind. It is the custom in this country to hire no servants at inns. They, on the contrary, pay for their places and the only wages they get is fromthe generosity of travellers. "This circumstance at first would strike a person unacquainted with thecustoms of England as a very great imposition. I thought so, but, since Ihave considered the subject better, I believe that there could not be awiser plan formed. It makes servants civil and obliging and always readyto do anything; for, knowing that they depend altogether on the bounty oftravellers, they would fear to do anything which would in the leastoffend them; and, as there is a customary price for each grade ofservants, a person who is travelling can as well calculate the expense ofhis journey as though they were nothing of the kind. " "_London, August 15, 1811. _ You see from the date that I have at lengtharrived at the place of my destination. I have been in the city aboutthree hours, so you see what is my first object. . . . Mr. And Mrs. Allstonwith myself took a post-chaise which, indeed, is much more expensive thana stage-coach, but, on account of Mrs. Allston's health, which you knowwas not very good when in Boston (although she is much benefited by hervoyage), we were obliged to travel slowly, and in this manner it has costus perhaps double the sum which it would have done had we come in astage-coach. But necessity obliged me to act as I have done. I foundmyself in a land of strangers, liable to be cheated out of my teethalmost, and, if I had gone to London without Mr. Allston, by waiting at aboarding-house, totally unacquainted with any living creature, I shouldprobably have expended the difference by the time he had arrived. . . . Itrust you will not think it extravagant in me for doing as I have done, for I assure you I shall endeavor to be as economical as possible. "I also mentioned in my letter that I could scarcely expect to steer freefrom imposition since none of my predecessors have been able to do it. Since writing that letter I have found (in spite of all my care to thecontrary) my observation true. In going from the Liverpool Arms to Mr. Woolsey's, which is over a mile, I was under the necessity of gettinginto a hackney-coach. Upon asking what was to pay he told me a shilling. I offered him half a guinea to change, which I knew to be good, havingtaken it at the hank in New York. "He tossed it into the air and caught it in his mouth very dexterously, and, handing it to me back again, told me it was a bad one. I looked atit and told him I was sure it was good, but, appealing to a gentleman whowas passing, I found it was bad. Of course I was obliged to give himother money. When I got to my lodgings I related the circumstance to someof my friends and they told me he had cheated me in this way: that it wascommon for them to carry bad money about them in their mouths, and, whenthis fellow had caught the good half-guinea in his mouth, he changed itfor a bad one. This is one of the thousand tricks they play every day. Ihave likewise received eleven bad shillings on the road between Liverpooland this place, and it is hardly to be wondered at, for the shillingpieces here are just like old buttons without eyes, without the sign ofan impression on them, and one who is not accustomed to this sort ofmoney will never know the difference. "I find, as mama used to tell me, that I must watch my very teeth or theywill cheat me out of them. " "_Friday, 16th, 1811. _ This morning I called on Mr. Bromfield anddelivered my letters. He received me very cordially, enquired after youparticularly, and invited me to dine with him at 5 o'clock, whichinvitation I accepted. . . . I find I have arrived in England at a verycritical state of affairs. If such a state continues much longer, Englandmust fall. American measures affect this country more than you can haveany idea of. The embargo, if it had continued six weeks longer, it issaid would have forced this country into any measures. " "_Saturday, 17th. _ I have been unwell to-day in some degree, so that Ihave not been able to go out all day. It was a return of the colic. Isent my letter of introduction to Dr. Lettsom with a request that hewould call on me, which he did and prescribed a medicine which cured mein an hour or two, and this evening I feel well enough to resume myletter. "Dr. Lettsom is a very singular man. He looks considerably like the printyou have of him. He is a moderate Quaker, but not precise and stiff likethe Quakers of Philadelphia. He is a very pleasant and sociable man andwithal very blunt in his address. He is a man of excellent informationand is considered among the greatest literary characters here. There isone peculiarity, however, which he has in conversation, that of using theverb in the third person singular with the pronoun in the first personsingular and plural, as instead of 'I show' or 'we show, ' he says 'Ishows, ' 'we shows, ' etc. , upon which peculiarity the famous Mr. Sheridanmade the following lines in ridicule of him:-- "If patients call, both one and allI bleeds 'em and I sweats 'em, And if they die, why what care I-- "I. LETTSOM. "This is a liberty I suppose great men take with each other. . . . "Perhaps you may have been struck at the lateness of the hour set by Mr. Bromfield for dinner [5 o'clock!], but that is considered quite early inLondon. I will tell you the fashionable hours. A person to be genteelmust rise at twelve o'clock, breakfast at two, dine at six, and sup atthe same time, and go to bed about three o'clock the next morning. Thismay appear extravagant, but it is actually practised by the greatest ofthe fashionables of London. . . . "I think you will not complain of the shortness of this letter. I onlywish you now had it to relieve your minds from anxiety, for, while I amwriting, I can imagine mama wishing that she could hear of my arrival, and thinking of thousands of accidents that may have befallen me, and _Iwish that in an instant I could communicate the information;_ but threethousand miles are not passed over in an instant and we must wait fourlong weeks before we can hear from each other. " (The italics are mine, for on the outside of this letter written by Morsein pencil are the words:-- "A longing for the telegraph even in this letter. ") "There has a ghost made its appearance a few streets only from me whichhas alarmed the whole city. It appears every night in the form ofshriekings and groanings. There are crowds at the house every night, and, although they all hear the noises, none can discover from whence theycome. The family have quitted the house. I suppose 'tis only a hoax bysome rogue which will be brought out in time. " CHAPTER III AUGUST 24, 1811--DECEMBER 1. 1811 Benjamin West. --George III. --Morse begins his studies. --Introduced toWest. --Enthusiasms. --Smuggling and lotteries. --English appreciation ofart. --Copley. --Friendliness of West. --Elgin marbles. --Cries of London. --Custom in knocking. --Witnesses balloon ascension. --Crowds. --VauxhallGardens. --St. Bartholomew's Fair. --Efforts to be economical. --Signs ofwar. --Mails delayed. --Admitted to Royal Academy. --Disturbances, riots, and murders. At this time Benjamin West the American was President of the RoyalAcademy and at the zenith of his power and fame. Young Morse, admitted atonce into the great man's intimacy through his connection with WashingtonAllston and by letters of introduction, was dazzled and filled withenthusiasm for the works of the master. He considered him one of thegreatest of painters, if not the greatest, of all times. The verdict ofposterity does not grant him quite so exalted a niche in the temple ofFame, but his paintings have many solid merits and his friendship andfavor were a source of great inspiration to the young artist. Mr. Prime in his biography of Morse relates this interesting anecdote:-- "During the war of American Independence, West, remaining true to hisnative country, enjoyed the continued confidence of the King, and wasactually engaged upon his portrait when the Declaration of Independencewas handed to him. Mr. Morse received the facts from the lips of Westhimself, and communicated them to me in these words:-- "'I called upon Mr. West at his house in Newman Street one morning, andin conformity with the order given to his servant, Robert, always toadmit Mr. Leslie and myself, even if he was engaged in his privatestudies, I was shown into his studio. "'As I entered, a half-length portrait of George III stood before me uponan easel, and Mr. West was sitting with back toward me copying from itupon canvas. My name having been mentioned to him, he did not turn, but, pointing with the pencil he had in his hand to the portrait from which hewas copying, he said:-- "'"Do you see that picture, Mr. Morse?" "'"Yes sir!" I said; "I perceive it is the portrait of the King. " "'"Well, " said Mr. West, "the King was sitting to me for that portraitwhen the box containing the American Declaration of Independence washanded to him. " "'"Indeed, " I answered; "what appeared to be the emotions of the King?what did he say?" "'"Well, sir, " said Mr. West, "he made a reply characteristic of thegoodness of his heart, " or words to that effect. "'Well, if they can behappier under the government they have chosen than under mine, I shall behappy. '"'" On August 24, 1811, Morse writes to his parents:-- "I have begun my studies, the first part of which is drawing. I amdrawing from the head of Demosthenes at present, to get accustomed tohandling black and white chalk. I shall then commence a drawing for thepurpose of trying to enter the Royal Academy. It is a much harder task toenter now than when Mr. Allston was here, as they now require a prettyaccurate knowledge of anatomy before they suffer them to enter, and Ishall find the advantage of my anatomical lectures. I feel ratherencouraged from this circumstance, since the harder it is to gainadmittance, the greater honor it will be should I enter. I have likewisebegun a large landscape which, at a bold push, I intend for theExhibition, though I run the risk of being refused. . . . "I was introduced to Mr. West by Mr. Allston and likewise gave him yourletter. He was very glad to see me, and said he would render me everyassistance in his power. " "At the British Institution I saw his famous piece of Christ healing thesick. He said to me: 'This is the piece I intended for America, but theBritish would have it themselves; but I shall give America the betterone. ' He has begun a copy, which I likewise saw, and there are severalalterations for the better, if it is possible to be better. A sight ofthat piece is worth a voyage to England of itself. When it goes toAmerica, if you don't go to see it, I shall think you have not the leasttaste for paintings. " "The encomiums which Mr. West has received on account of that piece havegiven him new life, and some say he is at least ten years younger. He isnow likewise about another piece which will probably be superior to theother. He favored me with a sight of the sketch, which he said he grantedto me because I was an American. He had not shown it to anybody else. Mr. Allston was with me and told me afterwards that, however superior hislast piece was, this would far exceed it. The subject is Christ beforePilate. It will contain about fifty or sixty figures the size of life. " "Mr. West is in his seventy-sixth year (I think), but, to see him, youwould suppose him only about five-and-forty. He is very active; a flightof steps at the British Gallery he ran up as nimbly as I could. . . . Iwalked through his gallery of paintings of his own productions; therewere upward of two hundred, consisting principally of the originalsketches of his large pieces. He has painted in all upwards of sixhundred pictures, which is more than any artist ever did with theexception of Rubens the celebrated Dutch painter. . . . "I was surprised on entering the gallery of paintings in the BritishInstitution, at seeing eight or ten _ladies_ as well as gentlemen, withtheir easels and palettes and oil colors, employed in copying some of thepictures. You can see from this circumstance in what estimation the artis held here, since ladies of distinction, without hesitation or reserve, are willing to draw in public. . . . "By the way, I digress a little to inform you how I got my segars onshore. When we first went ashore I filled my pockets and hat as full as Icould and left the rest in the top of my trunk intending to come and getthem immediately. I came back and took another pocket load and left abouteight or nine dozen on the top of my clothes. I went up into the cityagain and forgot the remainder until it was too late either to take themout or hide them under the clothes. So I waited trembling (for contrabandgoods subject the whole trunk to seizure), but the custom-house officer, being very good-natured and clever, saw them and took them up. I told himthey were only for my own smoking and there were so few that they werenot worth seizing. 'Oh, ' says he, 'I shan't touch them; I won't know theyare here, ' and then shut down the trunk again. As he smoked, I gave him acouple of dozen for his kindness. " What a curious commentary on human nature it is that even the most pious, up to our own time, can see no harm in smuggling and bribery. And, asanother instance of how the standards of right and wrong change with thechanging years, further on in this same letter to his strict and piousparents young Morse says:-- "I have just received letters and papers from you by the Galen which hasarrived. I was glad to see American papers again. I see by them that thelottery is done drawing. How has my ticket turned out? If the weight willnot be too great for one shipload, I wish you would send the money by thenext vessel. " The lottery was for the benefit of Harvard College. "_September 3, 1811. _ I have finished a drawing which I intended to offerat the Academy for admission. Mr. Allston told me it would undoubtedlyadmit me, as it was better than two thirds of those generally offered, but advised me to draw another and remedy some defects in handling thechalks (to which I am not at all accustomed), and he says I shall enterwith some éclat. I showed it to Mr. West and he told me it was anextraordinary production, that I had talent, and only wanted knowledge ofthe art to make a great painter. " In a letter to his friends, Mr. And Mrs. Jarvis, dated September 17, 1811, he says:-- "I was astonished to find such a difference in the encouragement of artbetween this country and America. In America it seemed to lie neglected, and only thought to be an employment suited to a lower class of people;but here it is the constant subject of conversation, and the exhibitionsof the several painters are fashionable resorts. No person is esteemedaccomplished or well educated unless he possesses almost an enthusiasticlove for paintings. To possess a gallery of pictures is the pride ofevery nobleman, and they seem to vie with each other in possessing themost choice and most numerous collection. . . . I visited Mr. Copley a fewdays since. He is very old and infirm. I think his age is upward ofseventy, nearly the age of Mr. West. His powers of mind have almostentirely left him; his late paintings are miserable; it is really alamentable thing that a man should outlive his faculties. He has been afirst-rate painter, as you well know. I saw at his room some exquisitepieces which he painted twenty or thirty years ago, but his paintings ofthe last four or five years are very bad. He was very pleasant, however, and agreeable in his manners. "Mr. West I visit now and then. He is very liberal to me and gives meevery encouragement. He is a very friendly man; he talked with me like afather and wished me to call and see him often and be intimate with him. Age, instead of impairing his faculties, seems rather to havestrengthened them, as his last great piece testifies. He is soon comingout with another which Mr. Allston thinks will far surpass even thislast. The subject is Christ before Pilate. "I went last week to Burlington House in Piccadilly, about forty-fiveminutes' walk, the residence of Lord Elgin, to see some of the ruins ofAthens. Lord Elgin has been at an immense expense in transporting thegreat collection of splendid ruins, among them some of the originalstatues of Phidias, the celebrated ancient sculptor. They are very muchmutilated, however, and impaired by time; still there was enoughremaining to show the inferiority of all subsequent sculpture. Even thosecelebrated works, the Apollo Belvedere, Venus di Medicis, and the rest ofthose noble statues, must yield to them. . . . "The cries of London, of which you have doubtless heard, are veryannoying to me, as indeed they are to all strangers. The noise of them isconstantly in one's ears from morning till midnight, and, with theexception of one or two, they all appear to be the cries of distress. Idon't know how many times I have run to the window expecting to see somepoor creature in the agonies of death, but found, to my surprise, that itwas only an old woman crying 'Fardin' apples, ' or something of the kind. Hogarth's picture of the enraged musician will give you an excellent ideaof the noise I hear every day under my windows. . . . "There is a singular custom with respect to knocking at the doors ofhouses here which is strictly adhered to. A servant belonging to thehouse rings the bell only; a strange servant knocks once; a market man orwoman knocks once and rings; the penny post knocks twice; and a gentlemanor lady half a dozen quick knocks, or any number over two. A noblemangenerally knocks eight or ten tunes very loud. "The accounts lately received from America look rather gloomy. They arethought here to wear a more threatening aspect than they have heretoforedone. From my own observation and opportunity of hearing the opinion ofthe people generally, they are extremely desirous of an amicableadjustment of differences, and seem as much opposed to the idea of war asthe better part of the American people. . . . "In this letter you will perceive all the variety of feeling whichI have had for a fortnight past; sometimes in very low, sometimes invery high spirits, and sometimes a balance of each; which latter, thoughvery desirable, I seldom have, but generally am at one extreme or theother. I wrote this in the evenings of the last two weeks, and thiswill account, and I hope apologize, for its great want of connection. " In a long letter to a friend, dated September 17, 1811, he thus describessome of the sights of London:-- "A few days since I walked about four miles out of town to a village ofthe name of Hackney to witness the ascension of a Mr. Sadler and anothergentleman in a balloon. It was a very grand sight, and the next day theaeronauts returned to Hackney, having gone nearly fifty miles in about anhour and a half. The number of people who attended on this occasion mightbe fairly estimated at 300, 000, such a concourse as I never beforewitnessed. "When the balloon was out of sight the crowd began to return home, andsuch a confusion it is almost impossible for me to describe. A gang ofpickpockets had contrived to block up the way, which was across a bridge, with carriages and carts, etc. , and as soon as the people began to moveit created such an obstruction that, in a few moments, this great crowd, in the midst of which I had unfortunately got, was stopped. This gave thepickpockets an opportunity and the people were plundered to a greatamount. "I was detained in this manner, almost suffocated, in a great shower ofrain, for about an hour, and, what added to the misery of the scene, there were a great many women and children crying and screaming in alldirections, and no one able to assist them, not even having a finger atliberty, they were wedged in in such a manner. I had often heard of thedanger of a London crowd, but never before experienced it, and I thinkonce is amply sufficient and shall rest satisfied with it. "A few evenings since I visited the celebrated Vauxhall Gardens, of whichyou have doubtless often heard. I must say they far exceeded myexpectations; I never before had an idea of such splendor. The moment Iwent in I was almost struck blind with the blaze of light proceeding fromthousands of lamps and those of every color. "In the midst of the gardens stands the orchestra box in the form of alarge temple and most beautifully illuminated. In this the principal bandof music is placed. At a little distance is another smaller temple inwhich is placed the Turkish band. On one side of the gardens you entertwo splendid saloons illuminated in the same brilliant manner. In one ofthem the Pandean band is placed, and in the other the Scotch band. Allaround the gardens is a walk with a covered top, but opening on the sidesunder curtains in festoons, and these form the most splendid illuminatedpart of the whole gardens. The amusements of the evening are music, waterworks, fireworks, and dancing. "The principal band plays till about ten o'clock, when a little bell isrung, and the whole concourse of people (the greater part of which arefemales) run to a dark part of the gardens where there is an admirabledeception of waterworks. A bridge is seen over which stages and wagons, men and horses, are seen passing; birds flying across and the water ingreat cataracts falling down from the mountains and passing over smallerfalls under the bridges; men are seen rowing a boat across, and, indeed, everything which could be devised in such an exhibition was performed. "This continues for about fifteen minutes, when they all return into theilluminated part of the gardens and are amused by music from the sameorchestra till eleven o'clock. They then are called away again to thedark part of the gardens, where is an exhibition of the most splendidfireworks; sky-rockets, serpents, wheels, and fountains of fire in thegreatest abundance, occupying twenty minutes more of the time. "After this exhibition is closed, they again return into the illuminatedparts of the gardens, where the music strikes up from the chieforchestra, and hundreds of groups are immediately formed for dancing. Respectable ladies, however, seldom join in this dance, althoughgentlemen of the first distinction sometimes for amusement lend a hand, or rather a foot, to the general cheerfulness. "All now is gayety throughout the gardens; every one is in motion, andcare, that bane of human happiness, for a time seems to have lost herdominion over the human heart. Had the Eastern sage, who was in search ofthe land of happiness, at this moment been introduced into Vauxhall, Ithink his most exalted conceptions of happiness would have beensurpassed, and he would rest contented in having at last found the objectof his wishes. "In a few minutes the chief orchestra ceases and is relieved in turn bythe other bands, the company following the music. The Scotch bandprincipally plays Scotch reels and dances. The music and this course ofdancing continue till about four o'clock in the morning, when the lightsare extinguished and the company disperses. On this evening, which was byno means considered as a full night, the company consisted of perhapsthree thousand persons. "I had the pleasure a few days since of witnessing one of the oddestexhibitions, perhaps, in the world. It was no other than _St. Bartholomew's Fair_. It is held here in London once a year and continuesthree days. There is a ceremony in opening it by the Lord Mayor, which Idid not see. At this fair the lower orders of society are let loose andallowed to amuse themselves in any lawful way they please. The fair isheld in Smithfield Market, about the centre of the city. The principalamusement appeared to be swinging. There were large boxes capable ofholding five or six suspended in large frames in such manner as tovibrate nearly through a semicircle. There were, to speak within bounds, three hundred of these. They were placed all round the square, and italmost made me giddy only to see them all in motion. They were so muchpressed for room that one of these swings would clear another but abouttwo inches, and it seemed almost miraculous to me that they did not meetwith more accidents than they did. "Another amusement were large wheels, about thirty or forty feet indiameter, on the circumference of which were four and sometimes six boxescapable of holding four persons. These are set in slow motion, and theygradually rise to the top of the wheel and as gradually descend and so onin succession. There were various other machines on the same principlewhich I have not time to describe. "In the centre of the square was an assemblage of everything in theworld; theatres, wild beasts, _lusus naturoe_, mountebanks, buffoons, dancers on the slack wire, fighting and swearing, pocket-picking andstealing, music and dancing, and hubbub and confusion in every confusedshape. "The theatres are worth describing; they are temporary buildings put upand ornamented very richly on the exteriors to attract attention, whilethe interiors, like many persons' heads, are but very poorly furnished. Strolling companies of players occupy these, and between the plays theactors and actresses exhibit themselves on a stage before the theatre inall their spangled robes and false jewels, and strut and flourish abouttill the theatre is filled. "Then they go in and turn, perhaps, a very serious tragedy into one ofthe most ridiculous farces. They occupy about fifteen minutes in recitinga play and then a fresh audience is collected, and so they proceedthrough the three days and nights, so that the poor actors and actressesare killed about fifty times in the course of a day. "A person who goes into one of these theatres must not expect to hear asyllable of the tragedy. If he can look upon the stage it is as much ashe can expect, for there is such a confused noise without of drums andfifes, clarionets, bassoons, hautboys, triangles, fiddles, bass-viols, and, in short, every possible instrument that can make a noise, that if aperson gets safe from the fair without the total loss of his hearing forthree weeks he may consider himself fortunate. Contiguous to the theatresare the exhibition rooms of the jugglers and buffoons, who also betweentheir exhibitions display their tricks on stages before the populace, andshow as many antics as so many monkeys. But were I to attempt adescription of everything I saw at Bartholomew Fair my letter, instead ofbeing a few sheets, would swell to as many quires; so I must close it. "I shall probably soon witness an exhibition of a more interestingnature; I mean a coronation. The King is now so very low that he cannotsurvive more than a week or two longer, and immediately on his death theceremony of the coronation takes place. If I should see it I shallcertainly describe it to you. " The King, George III, did not, however, die until 1820. In a letter of September 20 to his parents he says: "I endeavor to be aseconomical as possible and am getting into the habit very fast. It mustbe learned by degrees. I shall not say, as Salmagundi says, --'I shallspare no expense in discovering the most economical way of spendingmoney, ' but shall endeavor to practise it immediately. " "_September 24, 1811. _ You will see by the papers which accompany thiswhat a report respecting the capture of the U. S. Frigate President byMelampus frigate prevails here. It is sufficient to say it is not in theleast credited. "In case of war I shall be ordered out of the country. If so, instead ofreturning home, had I not better go to Paris, as it is cheaper livingthere even than in London, and there are great advantages there? I onlyask the question in case of war. . . . I am going on swimmingly. Next weekon Monday the Royal Academy opens and I shall present my drawing. " "_October 21, 1811. _ I wrote you by the Galen about three weeks ago andhave this moment heard she was still in the Downs. I was really provoked. There is great deception about vessels; they advertise for a certain dayand perhaps do not sail under a month after. The Galen has been going andgoing till I am sick of hearing she hasn't gone. " "_November 6, 1811. _ After leaving this letter so long, as you see by thedifferent dates, I again resume it. Perhaps you will be surprised when Itell you that but yesterday I heard that the Galen is still wind-bound. It makes my letters which are on board of her about five or six weeksold, besides the prospect of a long voyage. However it is not her fault. There are three or four hundred vessels in the same predicament. The windhas been such that it has been impossible for any of them to get underweigh; but I must confess I feel considerably anxious on your account. . . . "I mentioned in one of my other letters that I had drawn a figure (theGladiator) to admit me into the Academy. After I had finished it I wasdispleased with it, and concluded not to offer it, but to attemptanother. I have accordingly drawn another from the Laocoon statue, themost difficult of all the statues; have shown it to, the keeper of theAcademy and _am admitted for a year_ without the least difficulty. Mr. Allston was pleased to compliment me upon it by saying that it was betterthan two thirds of the drawings of those who had been drawing at theAcademy for two years. " "_November 85, 1811. _ I mentioned in my last letter that I had enteredthe Royal Academy, which information I hope will give you pleasure. I nowemploy my days in painting at home and in the evenings in drawing at theAcademy as is customary. I have finished a landscape and almost finisheda copy of a portrait which Mr. West lent me. Mr. Allston has seen it andcomplimented me by saying it was just a hundred tunes better than he hadany idea I could do, and that I should astonish Mr. West very much. Ihave also begun a landscape, a morning scene at sunrise, which Mr. Allston is very much pleased with. All these things encourage me, and, asevery day passes away, I feel increased enthusiasm. . . . "Distresses are increasing in this country, and disturbances, riots, etc. , have commenced as you will see by the papers which accompany this. They are considered very alarming. " "_December 1, 1811. _ I am pursuing my studies with increased enthusiasm, and hope, before the three years are out, to relieve you from furtherexpense on my account. Mr. Allston encourages me to think thus from therapid improvement he says I have made. You may rest assured I shall useall my endeavors to do it as soon as may be. . . . "This country appears to me to be in a very bad state. I judge from theincreasing disturbances at Nottingham, and more especially from thestartling murders lately committed in this city. "A few mornings since was published an account of the murder of a familyconsisting of four persons, and this moment there is another account ofthe murder of one consisting of three persons, making the twelfth murdercommitted in that part of the city within three months, and not one ofthe murderers as yet has been discovered, although a reward of more thanseven hundred pounds has been offered for the discovery. "The inhabitants are very much alarmed, and hereafter I shall sleep withpistols at the head of my bed, although there is little to apprehend inthis part of the city. Still, as I find many of my acquaintance adoptingthat plan, I choose rather to be on the safe side and join with them. " CHAPTER IV JANUARY 18, 1812--AUGUST 6. 1812 Political opinions. --Charles E. Leslie's reminiscences of Morse, Allston, King, and Coleridge. --C. B. King's letter. --Sidney E. Morse's letter. --Benjamin West's kindness. --Sir William Beechy. --Murders, robberies, etc. --Morse and Leslie paint each other's portraits. --The elder Morse'sfinancial difficulties. --He deprecates the war talk. --The son differswith his father. --The Prince Regent. --Orders in Council. --Estimate ofWest. --Alarming state of affairs in England. --Assassination of Perceval, Prime Minister. --Execution of assassin. --Morse's love for his art. --Stephen Van Rensselaer. --Leslie the friend and Allston the master. --Afternoon tea. --The elder Morse well known in Europe. --Lord Castlereagh. --The Queen's drawing-room. --Kemble and Mrs. Siddons. --Zachary Macaulay. --Warning letter from his parents. --War declared. --Morse approves. --Gratitude to his parents, and to Allston. The years from 1811 to 1815 which were passed by Morse in the study ofhis art in London are full of historical interest, for England andAmerica were at war from 1812 to 1814, and the campaign of the alliedEuropean Powers against Napoleon Bonaparte culminated in Waterloo and theTreaty of Paris in 1815. The young man took a deep interest in these affairs and expressed hisopinions freely and forcibly in his letters to his parents. His fatherwas a strong Federalist and bitterly deprecated the declaration of war bythe United States. The son, on the contrary, from his point of vantage inthe enemy's country saw things from a different point of view and stoutlyupheld the wisdom, nay, the necessity, of the war. His parents andfriends urged him to keep out of politics and to be discreet, and heseems, at any rate, to have followed their advice in the latter respect, for he was not in any way molested by the authorities. At the same time he was making steady progress in his studies and makingfriends, both among the Americans who were his fellow students or artistsof established reputation, and among distinguished Englishmen who werefriends of his father. Among the former was Charles R. Leslie, his room-mate and devoted friend, who afterwards became one of the best of the American painters of thosedays. In his autobiography Leslie says:-- "My new acquaintances Allston, King, and Morse were very kind, but stillthey were _new_ acquaintances. I thought of the happy circle round mymother's fireside, and there were moments in which, but for myobligations to Mr. Bradford and my other kind patrons, I could have beencontent to forfeit all the advantages I expected from my visit to Englandand return immediately to America. The two years I was to remain inLondon seemed, in prospect, an age. "Mr. Morse, who was but a year or two older than myself, and who had beenin London but six months when I arrived, felt very much as I did and weagreed to take apartments together. For some time we painted in one room, he at one window and I at the other. We drew at the Royal Academy in theevening and worked at home in the day. Our mentors were Allston and King, nor could we have been better provided; Allston, a most amiable andpolished gentleman, and a painter of the purest taste; and King, warm-hearted, sincere, sensible, prudent, and the strictest ofeconomists. "When Allston was suffering extreme depression of spirits after the lossof his wife, he was haunted during sleepless nights by horrid thoughts, and he told me that diabolical imprecations forced themselves into hismind. The distress of this to a man so sincerely religious as Allston maybe imagined. He wished to consult Coleridge, but could not summonresolution. He desired, therefore, that I should do it, and I went toHighgate where Coleridge was at that time living with Mr. Gillman. Ifound him walking in the garden, his hat in his hand (as it generally wasin the open air), for he told me that, having been one of the BluecoatBoys, among whom it is the fashion to go bareheaded, he had acquired adislike to any covering of the head. "I explained the cause of my visit and he said: 'Allston should say tohimself, "_Nothing is me but my will. _ These thoughts, therefore, thatforce themselves on my mind are no part of _me_ and there can be no guiltin them. " If he will make a strong effort to become indifferent to theirrecurrence, they will either cease or cease to trouble him. ' "He said much more, but this was the substance, and, after it wasrepeated to Allston, I did not hear him again complain of the same kindof disturbance. " Mr. C. B. King, the other friend mentioned by Leslie, returned to Americain 1812, and writes from Philadelphia, January 3, 1813:-- MY DEAR FRIENDS, This will be handed you by Mr. Payne, of Boston, whointends passing some time in England. . . . I have not been heresufficiently long to forget the delightful time when we could meet in theevening with novels, coffee, and _music by Morse_, with the conversationof that dear fellow Allston. The reflection that it will not again takeplace, comes across my mind accompanied with the same painful sensationas the thought that I must die. That Morse was not forgotten by the good people at home is evidenced by aletter from his brother, Sidney Edwards, of January 18, 1812, part ofwhich I transcribe:-- DEAR BROTHER, --I am sitting in the parlor in the armchair on the right ofthe fireplace, and, as I hold my paper in my hand, with my feet sprawledout before the fire, and with my body reclining in an oblique positionagainst the back of the chair, I am penning you a letter such as it is, and for the inverted position of the letters of which I beg to apologize. As I turn my eyes upward and opposite I behold the family picture paintedby an ingenious artist who, I understand, is at present residing inLondon. If you are acquainted with him, give my love to him and my bestwishes for his prosperity and success in the art to which, if report saystrue, he has devoted himself with much diligence. Richard sits before me writing to you, and mama says (for I have justasked her the question) that she is engaged in the same business. Papa isupstairs very much engaged in the selfsame employment. Four right handsare at this instant writing to give you, at some future moment, thepleasure of perusing the products of their present labor. Fourimaginations are now employed in conceiving of a son or a brother in adistant land. Therefore we may draw the conclusion that you are notuniversally forgotten, and consequently all do not forget you. I have written you this long letter because I knew that you would beanxious for the information it contains; because papa told me I mustwrite; because mama said I had better write; because I had nothing elseto do, and because I hadn't time to write a shorter. I trust for thesespecial reasons you will excuse me for this once, especially when youconsider that you asked me to write you long letters; when you considerthat it is my natural disposition to express my sentiments fully; that Icommonly say most when I have least to say; that I promise reformation infuture, and that you shall hereafter hear from me on this subject. As to news, I am sorry to say we are entirely out. We sent you the lastwe had by the Sally Ann. We hope to get some ready by the time the nextship sails, and then we will furnish you with the best the countryaffords. From a letter of January 30, 1812, to his parents I select the followingpassages:-- "On Tuesday last I dined at Mr. West's, who requested to be particularlyremembered to you. He is extremely attentive and polite to me. He calledon me a few days ago, which I consider a very marked attention as hekeeps so confined that he seldom pays any visits. . . . "I have changed my lodgings to No. 82 in the same street [GreatTitchfield Street], and have rooms with young Leslie of Philadelphia whohas just arrived. He is very promising and a very agreeable room-mate. Weare in the same stage of advancement in art. "I have painted five pieces since I have been here, two landscapes andthree portraits; one of myself, one a copy from Mr. West's copy fromVandyke, and the other a portrait of Mr. Leslie, who is also takingmine. . . . I called a day or two since on Sir William Beechy, an artist ofgreat eminence, to see his paintings. They are beautiful beyond anythingI ever imagined. His principal excellence is in coloring, which, to themany, is the most attractive part of art. Sir William is considered thebest colorist now living. "You may be apt to ask, 'If Sir William is so great and even the best, what is Mr. West's great excellence?' Mr. West is a bad colorist ingeneral, but he excels in the grandeur of his thought. Mr. West is topainting what Milton is to poetry, and Sir William Beechy to Mr. West asPope to Milton, so that by comparing, or rather illustrating the one artby the other, I can give you a better idea of the art of painting than inany other way. For as some poets excel in the different species of poetryand stand at the head of their different kinds, in the same manner dopainters have their particular branch of their art; and as epic poetryexcels all other kinds of poetry, because it addresses itself to thesublimer feelings of our nature, so does historical painting standpreëminent in our art, because it calls forth the same feelings. Forpoets' and painters' minds are the same, and I infer that painting issuperior to poetry from this:--that the painter possesses with the poet avigorous imagination, where the poet stops, while the painter exceeds himin the mechanical and very difficult part of the art, that of handlingthe pencil. " "I gave you a hint in letter number 12 and a particular account in number13 of the horrid murders committed in this city. It has been pretty wellascertained from a variety of evidence that all of them have beencommitted by one man, who was apprehended and put an end to his life inprison. Very horrid attempts at robbery and murder have been veryfrequent of late in all parts of the city, and even so near as within twodoors of me in the same street, but do not be alarmed, you have nothingto fear on my account. Leslie and myself sleep in the same room and sleeparmed with a pair of pistols and a sword and alarms at our doors andwindows, so we are safe on that score. . . . "In my next I shall give you some account of politics here and as itrespects America. The Federalists are certainly wrong in very manythings. . . . "P. S. I wish you would keep my letter in which I enumerate all myfriends, and when I say, 'Give my love to my friends, ' imagine I writethem all over, and distribute it out to all as you think I ought, alwaysparticularizing Miss Russell, my patroness, my brothers, relations, andMr. Brown and Nancy [his old nurse]. This will save me time, ink, trouble, and paper. " Concerning the portraits which Morse and Leslie were painting of eachother, the following letter to Morse's mother, from a friend inPhiladelphia and signed "R. W. Snow, " will be found interesting:-- MY DEAR FRIEND, --I have this moment received a letter from Miss Vaughanin London, dated February 20, 1812, and, knowing the passage below wouldbe interesting to you, I transcribe it with pleasure, and add my verysincere wish that all your hopes may be realized. "Dr. Morse's son is considered a young man of very promising talents byMr. Allston and Mr. West and by those who have seen his paintings. Wehave seen him and think his modesty and apparent amiableness promise asmuch happiness to his friends as his talents may procure distinction forhimself. He is peculiarly fortunate, not only in having Mr. Allston foran adviser and friend, but in his companion in painting, Mr. Leslie, ayoung man from Philadelphia highly recommended by my uncle there, andwhose extreme diffidence adds to the most promising talents the patientindustry and desire of improvement which are necessary to bring them toperfection. They have been drawing each other's pictures. Mr. Leslie isin the Spanish costume and Mr. Morse in Highland dress. They are in anunfinished state, but striking resemblances. " This Highland lad, I hope, my dear friend, you will see, and in due timebe again blessed with the interesting original. At this time the good father was sore distressed financially. He wasgenerous to a fault and had, by endorsing notes and giving to others, crippled his own means. He says in a letter to his son dated March 21, 1812:-- "The Parkman case remains yet undecided and I know not that it ever willbe. There is a strange mystery surrounding the business which I am notable to unravel. The court is now in session in Boston which is expectedto decide the case. In a few days we shall be able to determine what wehave to expect from this case. If we lose it, your mother and I have madeup our minds to sit down contented with the loss. I trust we shall beenabled to pay our honest debts without it and to support ourselves. "As to you and your brothers, I trust, with your education, you will beable to maintain yourselves, and your parents, too, should they need itin their old age. Probably this necessity laid on you for exertion, industry, and economy in early life will be better for you in the endthan to be supported by your parents. In nine cases out of ten those whobegin the world with nothing are richer and more useful men in life thanthose who inherit a large estate. . . . "We have just heard from your brothers, who are well and in fine spirits. Edwards writes that he thinks of staying in New Haven another year and ofpursuing _general science_, and afterwards of purchasing a plantation andbecoming a planter in some one of the Southern States!! Perhaps heintends to marry some rich planter's daughter and to get his plantationand negroes in that way. This, I imagine, will be his only way to do it. "The newspapers which I shall send with this will inform you of the stateof our public affairs. We have high hopes that Governor Strong will beour governor next year. I have no belief that our _war hawks_ will beable to involve the country in a war with Great Britain, nor do I believethat the President really wishes it. It is thought that all the war talkand preparations are intended to effect the reëlection of Mr. Madison. The _Henry Plot_ is a farce intended for the same purpose, but it cannever be got up. It will operate against its promoters. " While the father was thus writing, on March 21, of the politicalconditions in America from his point of view, almost at the same momentthe son in England was expressing himself as follows:-- "_March 25, 1812. _ With respect to politics I know very little, my timebeing occupied with much pleasanter subjects. I, however, can answer yourquestion whether party spirit is conducted with such virulence here as inAmerica. It is by no means the case, for, although it is in some fewinstances very violent, still, for the most part, their debates areconducted with great coolness. "As to the Prince Regent, you have, perhaps, heard how unpopular he hasmade himself. He has disappointed the expectations of very many. Amongthe most unpopular of his measures may be placed the retention of theOrders in Council, which orders, notwithstanding the declarations of Mr. Perceval [the Prime Minister] and others in the Ministry to the contrary, are fast, very fast reducing this country to ruin; and it is the opinionof some of the best politicians in this country that, should the UnitedStates either persist in the Non-Intercourse Law or declare war, thiscountry would be reduced to the lowest extremity. [1] [Footnote 1: Orders in Council were issued by the sovereign, with theadvice of the Privy Council, in periods of emergency, trusting to theirfuture ratification by Parliament. In this case, while promulgated as aretaliatory measure against Bonaparte's Continental System, they boreheavily upon the commerce of the United States. ] "Bankruptcies are daily increasing and petitions from all parts of theKingdom, praying for the repeal of the Orders in Council, have beenpresented to the Prince, but he has declined hearing any of them. Alsothe Catholic cause remains undecided, and he refuses hearing anything onthat subject. But no more of politics. I am sure you must have more thansufficient at home. "I will turn to a more pleasant subject and give you a slight history ofthe American artists now in London. "At the head stands Mr. West. He stands and has stood so long preëminentthat I could relate but little of his history that would be new to you, so that I shall confine myself only to what has fallen under my ownobservation, and, of course, my remarks will be few. "As a painter Mr. West can be accused of as few faults as any artist ofancient or modern times. In his studies he has been indefatigable, andthe result of those studies is a perfect knowledge of the philosophy ofhis art. There is not a line or a touch in his pictures which he cannotaccount for on philosophical principles. They are not the productions ofaccident, but of study. "His principal excellence is considered composition, design, and elegantgrouping; and his faults were said to be a hard and harsh outline and badcoloring. These faults he has of late in a great degree amended. Hisoutline is softer and his coloring, in some pictures in which he hasattempted truth of color, is not surpassed by any artist now living, andsome have even said that Titian himself did not surpass it. However thatmay be, his pictures of a late date are admirable even in thisparticular, and it evinces that, if in general he neglected thatfascinating branch of art in some of his paintings, he still possesses aperfect knowledge of all its artifices. He has just completed a picture, an historical landscape, which, for clearness of coloring combined withgrandeur of composition, has never been excelled. "In his private character he is unimpeachable. He is a man of tenderfeelings, but of a mind so noble that it soars above the slanders of hisenemies, and he expresses pity rather than revenge towards those who, through wantonness or malice, plan to undermine his character. No man, perhaps, ever passed through so much abuse, and none, I am confident, ever bore up against its virulence with more nobleness of spirit, with asteady perseverance in the pursuit of the sublimest of human professions. He has travelled on heedless of the sneers, the ridicule, or thedetraction of his enemies, and he has arrived at that point where thelustre of his works will not fail to illuminate the dark regions ofbarbarism and distaste long after their bright author has ceased toexist. "Excuse my fervor in the praise of this man. He is not a common man, notsuch a one as can be met with in every age. He is one of those geniuseswho are doomed in their lifetime to endure the malice, the ridicule, andneglect of the world, and at their death to receive the praise andadoration of this same inconsistent world. I think there cannot be astronger proof that human nature is always the same than that men ofgenius in all ages have been compelled to undergo the samedisappointments and to pass through the same routine of calumny andabuse. " The rest of this letter is missing, which is a great pity, as it would beinteresting to read what Morse had to say of Allston, Leslie, and theothers. Was it a presentiment of the calumnies and abuse to which he himself wasto be subjected in after life which led him to express himself soheartily in sympathy with his master West? And was it the inspiringremembrance of his master's calm bearing under these afflictions whichheartened him to maintain a noble serenity under even greaterprovocation? "_April 21, 1812. _ I mentioned in my last letter that I should probablyexceed my allowance this year by a few pounds, but I now begin to thinkthat I shall not. I am trying every method to be economical and hope itwill not be long before I shall relieve you from further expense on myaccount. . . . "With respect to politics they appear gloomy on both sides. . . . You maydepend on it. England has injured us sorely and our Non-Intercourse is ajust retaliation for those wrongs. Perhaps you will believe what is saidin some of the Federal papers that that measure has no effect on thiscountry. You may be assured the effects are great and severe; I am myselfan eye-witness of the effects. The country is in a state of rebellionfrom literal starvation. Accounts are daily received which grow more andmore alarming from the great manufacturing towns. Troops are in motionall over the country, and but last week measures were adopted byParliament to prevent this metropolis from rising to rebellion, byordering troops to be stationed round the city to be ready at a moment'swarning. This I call an alarming period. Everybody thinks so and Mr. Perceval himself is frightened, and a committee is appointed to take intoconsideration the Orders in Council. Now, when you consider that I cameto this country prejudiced against our government and its measures, andthat I can have no bad motive in telling you these facts, you will notthink hard of me when I say that I hope that our Non-Intercourse Law willbe enforced with all its rigor, as I firmly believe it is the only way tobring this country to terms, and that, if persisted in, it will certainlybring them to terms. I know it must make some misery at home, but it willbe followed by a corresponding happiness after it. Some of you at home, Isuppose, will call me a Democrat, but facts are stubborn things, and Ican't deny the truth of what I see every day before my eyes. A man tojudge properly of his country must, like judging of a picture, view it ata distance. " "_May 12, 1812. _ I write in great haste to inform you of a dreadful eventwhich happened here last evening, and rumors of which will probably reachyou before this. Not to keep you in suspense it is no less than the_assassination of Mr. Perceval, _ the Prime Minister of Great Britain. Ashe was entering the House of Commons last evening a little past fiveo'clock, he was shot directly through the heart by a man from behind thedoor. He staggered forward and fell, and expired in about ten minutes. . . . "I have just returned from the House of Commons; there was an immensecrowd assembled and very riotous. In the hall was written in largeletters, 'Peace or the Head of the Regent. ' This country is in a veryalarming state and there is no doubt but great quantities of blood willbe spilled before it is restored to order. Even while I am writing aparty of Life Guards is patrolling the streets. London must soon be thescene of dreadful events. "Last night I had an opportunity of studying the public mind. It was atthe theatre; the play was 'Venice Preserved; or, the Plot Discovered. ' Ifyou will take the trouble just to read the first act you will see whatrelation it has to the present state of affairs. When Pierre says toJaffier, 'Cans't thou kill a Senator?' there were three cheers, and sothrough the whole, whenever anything was said concerning conspiracy andin favor of it, the audience applauded, and when anything was saidagainst it they hissed. When Pierre asked the conspirators if Brutus wasnot a good man, the audience was in a great uproar, applauding so as toprevent for some minutes the progress of the performance. This I thinkshows the public mind to be in great agitation. The play of 'VenicePreserved' is not a moral play, and I should not ask you to read any partof it if I could better explain to you the feelings of the public. " A few days later, on May 17, he says in a letter to his brothers:-- "The assassin Bellingham was immediately taken into custody. He was triedon Friday and condemned to be executed to-morrow morning (Monday, 18th). I shall go to the place to see the concourse of people, for to see himexecuted I know I could not bear. " In a postscript written the day after he says:-- "I went this morning to the execution. A very violent rain prevented sogreat a crowd as was expected. A few minutes before eight o'clockBellingham ascended the scaffold. He was very genteelly dressed; he bowedto the crowd, who cried out, 'God bless you, ' repeatedly. I saw him drawthe cap over his face and shake hands with the clergyman. I stayed nolonger, but immediately turned my back and was returning home. I hadtaken but a few steps when the clock struck eight, and, on turning back, I saw the crowd beginning to disperse. I have felt the effects of thissight all day, and shall probably not get over it for weeks. It was adreadful sight. There were no accidents. " In spite of all these momentous occurrences, the young artist wasfaithfully pursuing his studies, for in this same letter to his brothershe says:-- "But enough of this; you will probably hear the whole account before thisreaches you. I am wholly absorbed in the studies of my profession; it isa slow and arduous undertaking. I never knew till now the difficulties ofart, and no one can duly appreciate it unless he has tried it. Difficulties, however, only increase my ardor and make me more determinedthan ever to conquer them. "Mr. West is very kind to me; I visit him occasionally of a morning tohear him converse on art. He appears quite attached to me, as he is, indeed, to all young American artists. It seems to give him the greatestpleasure to think that one day the arts will flourish in America. He saysthat Philadelphia will be the Athens of the world. That city certainlygives the greatest encouragement of any place in the United States. Boston is most backward, so, if ever I should return to America, Philadelphia or New York would probably be my place of abode. "I have just seen Mr. Stephen Van Rensselaer, who you know was at collegewith us, and with whom I was intimate. He was very glad to see me andcalls on me every day while I am painting. He keeps his carriage andhorses and is in the first circles here. I ride out occasionally withhim; shall begin his portrait next week. " Like a breath of fresh air, in all the heat and dust of these troubloustimes, comes this request from his gentle mother in a letter of May 8, 1812:-- "Miss C. Dexter requests the favor of you to take a sketch of the face ofMr. Southey and send it her. He is a favorite writer with her and she hasa great desire to see the style of his countenance. If you can get it, enclose it in a genteel note to her with a brief account of him, his ageand character, etc. " The next letter of May 25, 1812, is from Morse to his parents. "I have told you in former letters that my lodgings are at 82 GreatTitchfield Street and that my room-mate is Leslie, the young man who isso much talked of in Philadelphia. We have lived together since Decemberand have not, as yet, had a falling out. I find his thoughts of art agreeperfectly with my own. He is enthusiastic and so am I, and we have nottime, scarcely, to think of anything else; everything we do has areference to art, and all our plans are for our mutual advancement in it. Our amusements are walking, _occasionally_ attending the theatres, andthe company of Mr. Allston and a few other gentlemen, consisting of threeor four painters and poets. We meet by turn at each other's rooms andconverse and laugh. "Mr. Allston is our most intimate friend and companion. I can't feel toograteful to Him for his attentions to me; he calls every day andsuperintends all we are doing. When I am at a stand and perplexed in someparts of the picture, he puts me right and encourages me to proceed bypraising those parts which he thinks good, but he is faithful and alwaystells me when anything is bad. "It is a mortifying thing sometimes to me, when I have been painting allday very hard and begin to be pleased with what I have done, on showingit to Mr. Allston, with the expectation of praise, and not only of praisebut a score of 'excellents, ' 'well dones, ' and 'admirables'; I say it ismortifying to hear him after a long silence say: 'Very bad, sir; that isnot flesh, it is mud, sir; it is painted with brick dust and clay. ' "I have felt sometimes ready to dash my palette knife through it and tofeel at the moment quite angry with him; but a little reflection restoresme; I see that Mr. Allston is not a flatterer but a friend, and thatreally to improve I must see my faults. What he says after this alwaysputs me in good humor again. He tells me to put a few flesh tints here, afew gray ones there, and to clear up such and such a part by such andsuch colors. And not only that, but takes the palette and brushes andshows me how, and in this way he assists me. I think it one of thegreatest blessings that I am under his eye. I don't know how many errorsI might have fallen into if it had not been for his attentions. . . . "I am painting portraits alone at present. Our sitters are among ouracquaintances. We paint them if they defray the expense of canvas andcolors. . . . " "Mama wished me to send some specimens of my painting home that you mightsee my improvement. The pictures that I now paint would be uninterestingto you; they consist merely of studies and drawings from plaster figures, hands and feet and such things. The portraits are taken by those for whomthey are painted. I shall soon begin a portrait of myself and will tryand send that to you. " "_June 8, 1812. _ Mama asks in one of her letters if we make our own tea. We do. The tea-kettle is brought to us boiling in the morning and eveningand we make our own coffee (which, by the way, is very cheap here) andtea. We live quite in the old bachelor style. I don't know but it will bebest for me to live in this style through life; my profession seems torequire all my time. "Mr. Hurd will take a diploma to you, with others to different personsnear Boston. I suppose it confers some title on you of consequence, as Isaw at his house a great number to be sent to all parts of the world todistinguished men. I find papa is known here pretty extensively. Someone, hearing my name and that I am an American, immediately asks if I amrelated to you. . . . "The Administration is at length formed, and, to the great sorrow ofeverybody, the old Ministers are reelected. The Orders in Council are thesubject of debate at the House of Commons this evening. It is animportant crisis, though there is scarcely any hope of their repeal. Ifnot, I sincerely hope that America will declare war. "What Lord Castlereagh said at a public meeting a few days ago ought tobe known in America. Respecting the Orders in Council, when some one saidunless they were repealed war with America must be the consequence, hereplied that, '_if the people would but support the Ministry in thosemeasures for a short time, America would be compelled to submit, for shewas not able to go to war_. ' But I say, and so does every American herewho sees how things are going with this country, that, should America butdeclare war, before hostilities commenced Great Britain would sue forpeace on any terms. Great Britain is jealous of us and would trample onus if she could, and I feel ashamed when I see her supported througheverything by some of the Federal editors. I wish they could be here afew months and they would be ashamed of themselves. They are injuringtheir country, for it is _their_ violence that induces this Government topersist in their measures by holding out hope that the parties willchange, and that then they can compel America to do anything. If Americaloses in this contest and softens her measures towards this country, shenever need expect to hold up her head again. " "_June 15, 1812. _ The Queen held a drawing-room a short time since and Iwent to St. James's Palace to see those who attended. It was a singularsight to see the ladies and gentlemen in their court dresses. Thegentlemen were dressed in buckram skirted coats without capes, longwaistcoats, cocked hats, bag-wigs, swords, and large buckles on theirshoes. The ladies in monstrous hoops, so that in getting into theircarriages they were obliged to go edgewise. Their dresses were very rich;some ladies, I suppose, had about them to adorn them £20, 000 or £30, 000worth of diamonds. " "I had a sight of the Prince Regent as he passed in his splendid statecarriage drawn by six horses. He is very corpulent, his features aregood, but he is very red and considerably bloated. I likewise saw thePrincess Charlotte of Wales, who is handsome, the Dukes of Kent, Cambridge, Clarence, and Cumberland, Admiral Duckworth, and many others. The Prince held a levee a few days since at which Mr. Van Rensselaer waspresented. " "I occasionally attend the theatres. At Covent Garden there is the bestacting in the world; Mr. Kemble is the first tragic actor now in England;Cook was a rival and excelled him in some characters. Mrs. Siddons is thefirst tragic actress, perhaps, that ever lived. She is now advanced inlife and is about to retire from the stage; on the 29th of this month shemakes her last appearance. I must say I admire her acting very much; sheis rather corpulent, but has a remarkably fine face; the Greciancharacter is finely portrayed in it; she excels to admiration in deeptragedy. In Mrs. Beverly, in the play of the 'Gamesters' a few nightsago, she so arrested the attention of the house that you might hear yourwatch tick in your fob, and, at the close of the play, when she utters anhysteric laugh for joy that her husband was not a murderer, there weredifferent ladies in the boxes who actually went into hysterics and wereobliged to be carried out of the theatre. This I think is proof of goodacting. Mrs. Siddons is a woman of irreproachable character and moves inthe first circles; the stage will never again see her equal. "You mustn't think because I praise the acting that I am partial totheatres. I think in a certain degree they are harmless, but, too muchattended, they dissipate the mind. There is no danger of my loving themtoo much; I like to go once in awhile after studying hard all day. "Last night, as I was passing through Tottenham Court Road, I saw a largecollection of people of the lower class making a most terrible noise bybeating on something of the sounding genus. Upon going nearer andenquiring the cause, I found that a butcher had just been married, andthat it is always the custom on such occasions for his brethren by tradeto serenade the couple with _marrow-bones_ and _cleavers_. Perhaps youhave heard of the phrase 'musical as marrow-bones and cleavers'; this isthe origin of it. If you wish to experience the sound let each one in thefamily take a pair of tongs and a shovel, and then, standing alltogether, let each one try to outdo the other in noise, and this willgive you some idea of it. How this custom originated I don't know. I hopeit is not symbolical of the _harmony_ which is to exist between theparties married. " Among those eminent Englishmen to whom young Morse had letters ofintroduction was Zachary Macaulay, editor of the "Christian Observer, "and father of the historian. The following note from him will be found ofa delightful old-time flavor:-- Mr. Macaulay presents his compliments to Mr. Morse and begs to expresshis regret at not having yet been so fortunate as to meet with him. Mr. Macaulay will be particularly happy if it should suit Mr. Morse to dinewith him at his house at Clapham on Saturday next at five o'clock. Mr. M. 's house is five doors beyond the Plough at the entrance of ClaphamCommon. A coach goes daily to Clapham from the Ship at Charing Cross at aquarter past three, and several leave Grace Church Street in the Cityevery day at four. The distance from London Bridge to Mr. Macaulay'shouse is about four miles. 23d June, 1812. In a letter from his mother of June 28, 1812, the anxious parent says:-- "Although we long to see you, yet we rejoice that you are so happilysituated at so great a distance from our, at present, wretched, miserablydistracted country, whose mad rulers are plunging us into an unnecessarywar with a country that I shall always revere as doing more to spread theglorious gospel of Jesus Christ to the benighted heathen, and those thatare famishing from lack of knowledge, than any other nation on the globe. Our hearts bleed at every pore to think of again being at war. We havenot yet forgotten the wormwood and gall of the last revolution. "We hope you will steer clear of any of the difficulties of the contestthat is about to take place. We wish you to be very prudent and guardedin all your conversation and actions and not to make yourself a party manon either side. Have your opinions, but have them to yourself, and besure you do not commit them to paper. It may do you great injury eitheron one side or the other, and you are not in your present situation as apolitician but as an artist. " In this same letter his father adds:-- "The die is cast and our country plunged in war. . . . There is greatopposition to it in the country. The papers, which you will haveopportunity to see, will inform you of the state of parties. Your motherhas given you sound advice as respects the course you should pursue. Bethe _artist_ wholly and let _politics_ alone. I rejoice that you arewhere you are at the present time. You will do what you can without delayto support yourself, as I know not how we shall be able to procure fundsto transmit to you, and, if we had them, how we could transmit themshould the war continue. " To this the son answers in a letter of August 6, 1812:-- "I am improving, perhaps, the last opportunity I shall have for some timeto write you. Mr. Wheeler, an American, who has been here some timestudying portrait painting, has kindly offered to deliver this to you. "Our political affairs, it seems, have come to a crisis, which Isincerely hope will turn to the advantage of America; it certainly willnot to this country. War is an evil which no man ought to think lightlyof, but, if ever it was just, it now is. The English acknowledge it, andwhat can be more convincing proof than the confession of an enemy? I wassorry to hear of the riotous proceedings in Boston. If they knew what aninjury they were doing their country in the opinion of foreign nations, they certainly would refrain from them. I assert (because I have proof)that the Federalists in the Northern States have done more injury totheir country by their violent opposition measures than even a Frenchalliance could. Their proceedings are copied into the English papers, read before Parliament, and circulated through the country, and what dothey say of them? Do they say the Federalists are patriots and are firmin asserting the rights of their country? No; they call them _cowards, _ a_base set;_ say they are traitors to their country and ought to be hangedlike traitors. These things I have heard and read, and therefore mustbelieve them. "I wish I could have a talk with you, papa; I am sure I could convinceyou that neither Federalists nor Democrats are Americans; that war withthis country is just, and that the present Administration of our countryhas acted with perfect justice in all their proceedings against thiscountry. . . . "To observe the contempt with which America is spoken of, and theepithets of a _'nation of cheats, ' 'sprung from convicts, ''pusillanimous, ' 'cowardly, '_ and such like, --these I think aresufficient to make any true American's blood boil. These are not used byindividuals only, but on the floor of the House of Commons. The goodeffects of our declaration of war begin to be perceived already. The toneof their public prints here is a little softer and more submissive. Notone has called in question the justice of the declaration of war; allsay, 'We are in the wrong and we shall do well to get out of it as soonas possible. ' "I could tell you volumes, but I have not time, and it would, perhaps, beimpolitic in the present state of affairs. I only wish that among theinfatuated party men I may not find my father, and I hope that he will be_neutral_ rather than oppose the war measure, for (if he will believe ason who loves him and his country better the longer and farther he isaway from them) this war will reestablish that character for honor andspirit which our country has lost through the proceedings of_Federalists_. "But I will turn from this subject. My health and spirits are excellentand my love for my profession increases. I am painting a small historicalpiece; the subject is 'Marius in Prison, ' and the soldier sent to killhim who drops his sword as Marius says, '_Durst thou kill Caius Marius?_'The historical fact you must be familiar with. I am taking great painswith it, and may possibly exhibit it in February at the British Gallery. "I never think of my situation in this country but with gratitude to youfor suffering me to pursue the profession of my choice, and for making somany sacrifices to gratify me. I hope I shall always feel grateful to thebest of parents and be able soon to show them I am so. In the mean time, if industry and application on my part can make them happy, be assured Ishall use my best endeavors to be industrious, and in any other way togive them comfort. One of my greatest blessings here is Mr. Allston. Heis like a brother to me, and not only is a most agreeable andentertaining companion, but he has been the means of giving me moreknowledge (practical as well as theoretical) in my art than I could haveacquired by myself in three years. "In whatever circumstance I am, Mr. Allston I shall esteem as one of mybest and most intimate friends, and in whatever I can assist him or his Ishall feel proud in being able to do it. "Mr. And Mrs. Allston are well. I dined with them yesterday at CaptainVisscher's, whom I have mentioned to you before as one of our passengers. He is very attentive to us, visits us constantly, and is making uspresents of various kinds every day, such as half a dozen best Madeira, etc. He came out here with his lady to take possession of a fortune of£80, 000 and was immensely rich before, having married Miss Van Rensselaerof Albany. " CHAPTER V SEPTEMBER 20, 1812--JUNE 13, 1813 Models the "Dying Hercules. "--Dreamsof greatness. --Again expresses gratitude to his parents. --Begins paintingof "Dying Hercules. "--Letter from Jeremiah Evarts. --Morse upholdsrighteousness of the war. --Henry Thornton. --Political discussions. --Gilbert Stuart. --William Wilberforce. --James Wynne's reminiscences ofMorse, Coleridge, Leslie, Allston, and Dr. Abernethy. --Letters from hismother and brother. --Letters from friends on the state of the fine artsin America. --"The Dying Hercules" exhibited at the Royal Academy. --Expenses of painting. --Receives Adelphi Gold Medal for statuette ofHercules. --Mr. Dunlap's reminiscences. --Critics praise "Dying Hercules. " The young artist's letters to his parents at this period are filled withpatriotic sentiments, and he writes many pages descriptive of the stateof affairs in England and of the effects of the war on that country. Hestrongly upholds the justice of that war and pleads with his parents andbrothers to take his view of the matter. They, on the other hand, strongly disapprove of the American Administration's position and of thewar, and are inclined to censure and to laugh at the enthusiastic youngman's heroics. As we are more concerned with Morse's career as an artist than with hispolitical sentiments, and as these latter, I fear, had no influence onthe course of international events, I shall quote but sparingly from thatportion of the correspondence, just enough to show that, whatever causehe espoused, then, and at all times during his long life, he threwhimself into it heart and soul, and thoroughly believed in itsrighteousness. He was absolutely sincere, although he may sometimes havebeen mistaken. In a letter dated September 20, 1812, he says:-- "I have just finished a model in clay of a figure (the 'Dying Hercules'), my first attempt at sculpture. Mr. Allston is extremely pleased with it;he says it is better than all the things I have done since I have been inEngland put together, and says I must send a cast of it home to you, andthat it will convince you that I shall make a painter. He says also thathe will write to his friends in Boston to call on you and see it when Isend it. "Mr. West also was extremely delighted with it. He said it was not merelyan academical figure, but displayed mind and thought. He could not havemade me a higher compliment. "Mr. West would write you, but he has been disabled from painting orwriting for a long time with the gout in his right hand. This is a greattrial to him. "I am anxious to send you something to show you that I have not been idlesince I have been here. My passion for my art is so firmly rooted that Iam confident no human power could destroy it. [And yet, as we shall seelater on, human injustice so discouraged him that he dropped the brushforever. ] "The more I study it, the greater I think is its claim to the appellationof '_divine_' and I never shall be able sufficiently to show my gratitudeto my parents for their indulgence in so greatly enabling me to pursuethat profession, without which I am sure I would be miserable. If ever itis my destiny to become great and worthy of a biographical memoir, mybiographer will never be able to charge upon my parents that bigotedattachment to any individual profession, the exercise of which spirit byparents toward their children has been the ruin of some of the greatestgeniuses; and the biography of men of genius has too often contained thatreflection on their parents. If ever the contrary spirit was evident, ithas certainly been shown by my parents towards me. Indeed, they have beenalmost too indulgent; they have watched every change of my capriciousinclinations, and seem to have made it an object to study them with thegreatest fondness. But I think they will say that, when my desire forchange did cease, it always settled on painting. "I hope that one day my success in my profession will reward you, in somemeasure, for the trouble and inconvenience I have so long put you to. "I am now going to begin a picture of the death of Hercules from thisfigure, as large as life. The figure I shall send to you as soon as it ispracticable, and also one of the same to Philadelphia, if possible intime for the next exhibition in May. "I have enjoyed excellent health and spirits and am perfectly contented. The war between the two countries has not been productive of any measuresagainst resident American citizens. I hope it will produce a good effecttowards both countries. " He adds in a postscript that he has removed from 82 Great TitchfieldStreet to No. 8 Buckingham Place, Fitzroy Square. The following extract from a letter to Morse written by his friend, Mr. Jeremiah Evarts, father of William M. Evarts, dated Charlestown, October7, 1812, is interesting:-- "I am happy that you are so industriously and prosperously engaged in theprosecution of your profession. I hope you will let politics entirelyalone for many reasons, not the least of which is a regard to theinternal tranquillity of your own mind. I never yet knew a man made happyby studying politics; nor useful, unless he has great duties to performas a citizen. You will receive this advice, I know, with your accustomedgood nature. " The next letter, dated November 1, 1812, is a very long one, overeighteen large pages, and is an impassioned appeal to his father to lookat the war from the son's point of view. I shall quote only a fewsentences. "Your last letter was of October 2, via Halifax, accompanying your sermonon Fast Day. The letter gave me great pleasure, but I must confess thatthe sentiments in the sermon appeared very _strange_ to me, knowing whatI, as well as every American here does, respecting the causes of thepresent war. . . . 'Tis the character of Englishmen to be haughty, proud, and overbearing. If this conduct meets with no resistance, theirtreatment becomes more imperious, and the more submissive andconciliating is the object of their imperiousness, the more tyrannicalare they towards it. This has been their uniform treatment towards us, and this character pervades all ranks of society, whether in public orprivate life. "The only way to please John Bull is to give him a good beating, and, such is the singularity of his character that, the more you beat him, thegreater is his respect for you, and the more he will esteem you. . . . "If, after all I have now written, you still think that this war isunjust, and think it worth the trouble in order to ascertain the truth, Iwish papa would take a trip across the Atlantic. If he is not convincedof the truth of what I have written in less than two months, I will agreeto support myself all the time I am in England after this date, and neverbe a farthing's more expense to you. . . . I was glad to hear that CousinSamuel Breese is in the navy. I really envy him very much. I hope oneday, as a painter, I may be able to hand him down to posterity as anAmerican Nelson. . . . As to my letters of introduction, I find that apainter and a visitor cannot be united. Were I to deliver my letters theacquaintance could not be kept up, and the bare thought of encounteringthe English reserve is enough to deter any one. . . . This objection, however, might be got over did it not take up so much time. Every momentis precious to me now. I don't know how soon I may be obliged to returnhome for want of means to support me; for the difficulties which areincreasing in this country take off the attention of the people from thefine arts, and they withhold that patronage from young artists which theywould, from their liberality, in other circumstances freely bestow. . . . "You mention that some of the Ralston family are in Boston on a visit, and that Mr. Codman is attached to Eliza. Once in my life, you know, ifyou had told me this and I had been a very bloody-minded young man, whoknows but Mr. Codman might have been challenged. But I suppose he takesadvantage of my being in England. If it is as you say, I am very happy tohear it, for Elizabeth is a girl whom I very much esteem, and there is nodoubt that she will make an excellent wife. " In a letter from his mother of July 6, 1818, she thus reassures him: "Mr. Codman is married. He married a Miss Wheeler, of Newburyport, so you willhave no need of challenging him on account of Eliza Ralston. " In a postscript to the letter of November 1, Morse adds:-- "I have just read the political parts of this letter to my good friendMr. A----n, and he not only approves of the sentiments in it, but pays mea compliment by saying that I have expressed the truth and nothing butthe truth in a very clear and proper manner, and hopes it may do good. " Among young Morse's friends in England at that time was Henry Thornton, philanthropist and member of Parliament. In a letter to his parents ofJanuary 1, 1813, he says:-- "Last Thursday week I received a very polite invitation from HenryThornton, Esq. , to dine with him, which I accepted. I had no introductionto him, but, hearing that your son was in the country, he found me outand has shown me every attention. He is a very pleasant, sensible man, but his character is too well known to you to need any eulogium from me. "At his table was a son of Mr. Stephen, who was the author of the odiousOrders in Council. Mr. Thornton asked me at table if I thought that, ifthe Orders in Council had been repealed a month or two sooner, it wouldnot have prevented the war. I told him I thought it would, at which hewas much pleased, and, turning to Mr. Stephen, he said: 'Do you hearthat, Mr. Stephen? I always told you so. ' "Last Wednesday I dined at Mr. Wilberforce's. I was extremely pleasedwith him. At his house I met Mr. Grant and Mr. Thornton, members ofParliament. In the course of conversation they introduced America, andMr. Wilberforce regretted the war extremely; he said it was like two ofthe same family quarrelling; that he thought it a judgment on thiscountry for its wickedness, and that they had been justly punished fortheir arrogance and insolence at sea, as well as the Americans for theirvaunting on land. "As Mr. Thornton was going he invited me to spend a day or two at hisseat at Clapham, a few miles out of town. I accordingly went and was verycivilly treated. The _reserve_ which I mentioned in a former letter wasevident, however, here, and I felt a degree of embarrassment arising fromit which I never felt in America. The second day I was a little more atmy ease. "At dinner were the two sons of the Mr. Grant I mentioned above. Theyare, perhaps, the most promising young men in the country, and you maypossibly one day hear of them as at the head of the nation. [One of theseyoung men was afterwards raised to the peerage as Lord Glenelg. ] "After dinner I got into conversation with them and with Mr. Thornton, when America again became the topic. They asked me a great many questionsrespecting America which I answered to the best of my ability. They atlength asked me if I did not think that the ruling party in America wasvery much under French influence. I replied 'No'; that I believed on thecontrary that nine tenths of the American people were prepossessedstrongly in favor of this country. As a proof I urged the universalprevalence of English fashions in preference to French, and Englishmanners and customs; the universal rejoicings on the success of theEnglish over the French; the marked attention shown to English travellersand visitors; the neglect with which they treated their own literaryproductions on account of the strong prejudice in favor of English works;that everything, in short, was enhanced in its value by having attachedto it the name English. "On the other hand, I told them that the French were a people almostuniversally despised in America, and by at least one half hated. As inEngland, they were esteemed the common enemies of mankind; that Frenchfashions were discountenanced and loathed; that a Frenchman wasconsidered as a man always to be suspected; that young men were forbiddenby their parents, in many instances, to associate with them, theyconsidering their company and habits as tending to subvert their morals, and to render them frivolous and insincere. I added that in America aswell as everywhere else there were bad men, men of no principles, whoseconsciences never stand in the way of their ambition or avarice; but thatI firmly believed that, as a body, the American Congress was as pure fromcorruption and foreign influence as any body of men in the world. Theywere much pleased with what I told them, and acknowledged that Americaand American visitors generally had been treated with too much contemptand neglect. "In the course of the day I asked Mr. Thornton what were the objects thatthe English Government had in view when they laid the Orders in Council. He told me in direct terms, '_the Universal monopoly of Commerce_'; thatthey had long desired an excuse for such measures as the Orders inCouncil, and that the French decrees were exactly what they wished, andthe opportunity was seized with avidity the moment it was offered. Theyknew that the Orders in Council bore hard upon the Americans, but theyconsidered that as merely _incidental_. "To this I replied that, if such was the case as he represented it, whatblame could be attached to the American Government for declaring war? Hesaid that it was urged that America ought to have considered thecircumstances of the case, and that Great Britain was fighting for theliberties of the world; that America was, in a great degree, interestedin the decision of the contest, and that she ought to be content tosuffer a little. "I told him that England had no right whatever to infringe on theneutrality of America, or to expect because she (England) supposedherself to have justice on her side in the contest with France, that, ofcourse, the Americans should think the same. The moment America declaredthis opinion her neutrality ceased. 'Besides, ' said I, 'how can they havethe face to make such a declaration when you just now said that theirobject was universal monopoly, and they longed for an excuse to adoptmeasures to that end?' I told him that it showed that all the noise aboutEngland's fighting for the liberties of mankind proved to be but athirst, a selfish desire for _universal monopoly_. "This he said seemed to be the case; he could not deny it. He was goingon to observe something respecting the French decrees when we wereinterrupted, and I have not been able again to resume the conversation. Ireturned to town with him shortly after in his carriage, where, as therewere strangers, I could not introduce it again. " After this follow two long pages giving further reasons for the stand hehas taken, which I shall not include, only quoting the followingsentences towards the end of the letter:-- "You will have heard before this arrives of the glorious news fromRussia. Bonaparte is for once _defeated_, and will probably never againrecover from it. "My regards to Mr. Stuart [Gilbert Stuart]. I feel quite flattered at hisremembrance of me. Tell him that, by coming to England, I know how morejustly to appreciate his great merits. There is really no one in Englandwho equals him. "Accompanying this are some newspapers, some of Cobbett's, a man of noprinciple and a great rascal, yet a man of sense and says many goodthings. " I have quoted at length from this letter in order that we may gain aclearer insight into the character of the man. While in no wiseneglecting his main objects in life, he yet could not help taking a deepinterest in public affairs. He was frank and outspoken in his opinions, but courteous withal. He abhorred hypocrisy and vice and was unsparing inhis condemnation of both. He enjoyed a controversy and was quick todiscover the weak points in his opponent's arguments and to make the mostof them. These characteristics he carried with him through life, becoming, however, broader-minded and more tolerant as he grew in years andexperience. Morse's father had given him many letters of introduction to eminent menin England. Most of these he neglected to deliver, pleading inextenuation of his apparent carelessness that he could not spare the timefrom his artistic studies to fulfill all the duties that would beexpected of him in society, and that he also could not afford theexpenses necessary to a well-dressed man. The following note from William Wilberforce explains itself, but thereseems to be some confusion of dates, for Morse had just said in hisletter of January 1st that he dined at Mr. Wilberforce's over a weekbefore. KENSINGTON GORE, January 4, 1813. SIR, --I cannot help entertaining some apprehension of my not havingreceived some letter or some card which you may have done me the favor ofleaving at my house. Be this, however, as it may, I gladly avail myselfof the sanction of a letter from your father for introducing myself toyou; and, as many calls are mere matters of form, I take the liberty ofbegging the favor of your company at dinner on Wednesday next, at aquarter before five o'clock, at Kensington Gore (one mile from Hyde Parkcorner), and of thereby securing the pleasure of an acquaintance withyou. The high respect which I have always entertained for your father, inaddition to the many obliging marks of attention which I have receivedfrom him, render me desirous of becoming personally known to you, andenable me with truth to assure you I am, with good will, sir, Your faithful servant, W. WILBERFORCE. Among Morse's friends in London during the period of his student years, were Coleridge, Rogers, Lamb, and others whose names are familiar ones inthe literary world. While the letters of those days give only hints of the delightfulintercourse between these congenial souls, the recollection of them wasenshrined in the memory of some of their contemporaries, and thefollowing reminiscences, preserved by Mr. James Wynne and recorded by Mr. Prune in his biography, will be found interesting:-- "Coleridge, who was a visitor at the rooms of Leslie and Morse, frequently made his appearance under the influence of those fits ofdespondency to which he was subject. On these occasions, by apreconcerted plan, they often drew him from this state to one ofbrilliant imagination. "'I was just wishing to see you, ' said Morse on one of these occasionswhen Coleridge entered with a hesitating step, and replied to their franksalutations with a gloomy aspect and deep-drawn sighs. 'Leslie and myselfhave had a dispute about certain lines of beauty; which is right?' Andthen each argued with the other for a few moments until Coleridge becameinterested, and, rousing from his fit of despondency, spoke with aneloquence and depth of metaphysical reasoning on the subject far beyondthe comprehension of his auditors. Their point, however, was gained, andColeridge was again the eloquent, the profound, the gifted being whichhis remarkable productions show him to be. "'On one occasion, ' said Morse, 'I heard him improvise for half an hourin blank verse what he stated to be a strange dream, which was full ofthose wonderful creations that glitter like diamonds in his poeticalproductions. ' 'All of which, ' remarked I, 'is undoubtedly lost to theworld. ' 'Not all, ' replied Mr. Morse, 'for I recognize in the "AncientMariner" some of the thoughts of that evening; but doubtless the greaterpart, which would have made the reputation of any other man, perishedwith the moment of inspiration, never again to be recalled. ' "When his tragedy of 'Remorse, ' which had a run of twenty-one nights, wasfirst brought out, Washington Allston, Charles King, Leslie, Lamb, Morse, and Coleridge went together to witness the performance. They occupied abox near the stage, and each of the party was as much interested in itssuccess as Coleridge himself. "The effect of the frequent applause upon Coleridge was very manifest, but when, at the end of the piece, he was called for by the audience, theintensity of his emotions was such as none but one gifted with the finesensibilities of a poet could experience. Fortunately the audience wassatisfied with a mere presentation of himself. His emotions would haveprecluded the idea of his speaking on such an occasion. "Allston soon after this became so much out of health that he thought achange of air and a short residence in the country might relieve him. Heaccordingly set out on his journey accompanied by Leslie and Morse. "When he reached Salt Hill, near Oxford, he became so ill as to be unableto proceed, and requested Morse to return to town for his medicalattendant, Dr. Tuthill, and Coleridge, to whom he was ardently attached. "Morse accordingly returned, and, procuring a post-chaise, immediatelyset out for Salt Hill, a distance of twenty-two miles, accompanied byColeridge and Dr. Tuthill. "They arrived late in the evening and were busied with Allston untilmidnight, when he became easier, and Morse and Coleridge left him for thenight. "Upon repairing to the sitting-room of the hotel Morse openedKnickerbocker's 'History of New York, ' which he had thrown into thecarriage before leaving town. Coleridge asked him what work he had. "'Oh, ' replied he, 'it is only an American book. ' "'Let me see it, ' said Coleridge. "He accordingly handed it to him, and Coleridge was soon buried in itspages. Mr. Morse, overcome by the fatigues of the day, soon after retiredto his chamber and fell asleep. "On awakening next morning he repaired to the sitting-room, when what washis astonishment to find it still closed, with the lights burning, andColeridge busy with the book he had lent him the previous night. "'Why, Coleridge, ' said he, approaching him, 'have you been reading thewhole night?' "'Why, ' remarked Coleridge abstractedly, 'it is not late. ' "Morse replied by throwing open the blinds and permitting the broaddaylight, for it was now ten o'clock, to stream in upon them. "'Indeed, ' said Coleridge, 'I had no conception of this; but the work haspleased me exceedingly. It is admirably written; pray, who is itsauthor?' "He was informed that it was the production of Washington Irving. It isneedless to say that, during the long residence of Irving in London, theybecame warm friends. "At this period Mr. Abernethy was in the full tide of his popularity as asurgeon, and Allston, who had for some little time had a grumbling painin his thigh, proposed to Morse to accompany him to the house of thedistinguished surgeon to consult him on the cause of the ailment. "As Allston had his hand on the bell-pull, the door was opened and avisitor passed out, immediately followed by a coarse-looking person witha large, shaggy head of hair, whom Allston at once took for a domestic. He accordingly enquired if Mr. Abernethy was in. "'What do you want of Mr. Abernethy?' demanded this uncouth-lookingperson with the harshest possible Scotch accent. "'I wished to see him, ' gently replied Allston, somewhat shocked by thecoarseness of his reception. 'Is he at home?' "'Come in, come in, mon, ' said the same uncouth personage. "'But he may be engaged, ' responded Allston. 'Perhaps I had better callanother time. ' "'Come in, mon, I say, ' replied the person addressed; and, partly bypersuasion and partly by force, Allston, followed by Morse, was inducedto enter the hall, which they had no sooner done than the person whoadmitted them closed the street door, and, placing his back against it, said:-- "'Now, tell me what is your business with Mr. Abernethy. I am Mr. Abernethy. ' "'I have come to consult you, ' replied Allston, 'about an affection--' "'What the de'il hae I to do with your affections?' bluntly interposedAbernethy. "'Perhaps, Mr. Abernethy, ' said Allston, by this time so completelyovercome by the apparent rudeness of the eminent surgeon as to regretcalling on him at all, 'you are engaged at present, and I had better callagain. ' "'De'il the bit, de'il the bit, mon, ' said Abernethy. 'Come in, come in. 'And he preceded them to his office, and examined his case, which provedto be a slight one, with such gentleness as almost to lead them to doubtwhether Abernethy within his consulting-room, and Abernethy whom they hadencountered in the passage, was really the same personage. " While Morse was enjoying all these new experiences in England, the goodpeople at home were jogging along in their accustomed ruts, but weredeeply interested in the doings of the absent son and brother. His mother writes on January 11, 1813:-- "Your letters are read with great pleasure by your acquaintance. I do notshow those in which you say anything on _politics, _ as I do not approveyour _change_, and think it would only prejudice others. For that reasonI do not wish you to write on that subject, as I love to read all yourobservations to your friends. "We cannot get Edwards to be a ladies' man at all. He will not visitamong the young ladies; he is as old as fifty, at least. " This same youthful misogynist and philosopher also writes to his brotheron January 11: "I intend soon writing another letter in which I shallprove to your satisfaction that poetry is much superior to painting. Youasserted the contrary in one of your letters, and brought an argument toprove it. I shall show the fallacy of that argument, and bring those tosupport my doctrine which are incontrovertible. " A letter from his friend, Mrs. Jarvis, the sister of his erstwhile flame, Miss Jannette Hart, informs him of the marriage of another sister toCaptain Hull of the navy, commander of the Constitution. In this letter, written on March 4, 1813, at Bloomingdale, New York City, Mrs. Jarvissays:-- "I am in general proud of the spirit of my countrymen, but there is toolittle attention paid to the fine arts, to men of taste and science. Manhere is weighed by his purse, not by his mind, and, according to thepreponderance of that, he rises or sinks in the scale of individualopinion. A fine painting or marble statue is very rare in the houses ofthe rich of this city, and those individuals who would not pay fiftypounds for either, expend double that sum to vie with a neighbor in apiece of furniture. "But do not tell tales. I would not say this to an Englishman, and Itrust you have not yet become one. This, however, is poor encouragementfor you to return to your native country. I hope better things of thatcountry before you may return. " A friend in Philadelphia writes to him on May 3, 1813:-- "Your favor I received from the hands of Mr. King, and have been verymuch gratified with the introduction it afforded me to this worthygentleman. You have doubtless heard of his safe arrival in our city, andof his having commenced his career in America, where, I am sorry to say, the arts are not, as yet, so much patronized as I hope to see them. Thoseof us who love them are too poor, and those who are wealthy regard thembut little. I think, however, I have already witnessed an improvement inthis respect, and the rich merchants and professional men are becomingmore and more liberal in their patronage of genius, when they find itamong native Americans. "From the favorable circumstances under which your studies areprogressing; from the unrivalled talents of the gentleman who conductsthem; and, without flattery, suffer me to add, from the early proofs ofyour own genius, I anticipate, in common with many of our fellowcitizens, the addition of one artist to our present roll whose name shallstand high among those of American painters. "In your companion Leslie we also calculate on a very distinguishedcharacter. "Our Academy of Fine Arts has begun the all-important study of the livefigure. Mr. Sully, Mr. Peale, Mr. Fainnan, Mr. King, and several othershave devoted much attention to this branch of the school, and I hope tosee it in their hands highly useful and improving. "The last annual exhibition was very splendid _for us_. Some very capitallandscapes were produced, many admirable portraits and one or twohistorical pictures. "The most conspicuous paintings were Mr. Peale's picture of the 'RomanCharity' (or, if you please, the 'Grecian Daughter, ' for Murphy has itso), and Mr. Sully's 'Lady of the Lake. '" In a letter of May 30, 1818, to a friend, Morse says:-- "You ask in your letter what books I read and what I am painting. Thelittle time that I can spare from painting I employ in reading andstudying the old poets, Spenser, Chaucer, Dante, Tasso, etc. These arenecessary to a painter. "As to painting, I have just finished a large picture, eight feet by sixfeet six inches, the subject, the 'Death of Hercules, ' which is now inthe Royal Academy Exhibition at Somerset House. I have been flattered bythe newspapers which seldom praise young artists, and they do me thehonor to say that my picture, with that of another young man by the nameof Monroe, form a distinguishing trait in this year's exhibition. . . . "This praise I consider much exaggerated. Mr. West, however, who saw itas soon as I had finished it, paid me many compliments, and told me that, were I to live to his age, I should never make a better composition. ThisI consider but a compliment and as meant only to encourage me, and assuch I receive it. "I mention these circumstances merely to show that I am getting along aswell as can be expected, and, if any credit attaches to me, I willinglyresign it to my country, and feel happy that I can contribute a mite toher honor. "The American character stands high in this country as to the productionof artists, but in nothing else (except, indeed, I may now say_bravery_). Mr. West now stands at the head, and has stood ever since thearts began to flourish in this country, which is only about fifty years. Mr. Copley next, then Colonel Trumbull. Stuart in America has no rivalhere. As these are now old men and going off the stage, Mr. Allstonsucceeds in the prime of life, and will, in the opinion of the greatestconnoisseurs in this country, carry the art to greater perfection than itever has been carried either in ancient or modern times. . . . After him isa young man from Philadelphia by the name of Leslie, who is my room-mate. " How fallible is contemporary judgment on the claims of so-called geniusto immortality. "For many are called, but few are chosen. " In another letter to his parents written about this time, after tellingof his economies in order to make the money, advanced so cheerfully butat the cost of so much self-sacrifice on their part, last as long aspossible, he adds: "My greatest expense, next to _living_, is for canvas, frames, colors, etc. , and visiting galleries. The frame of my large picture, which I havejust finished, cost nearly twenty pounds, besides the canvas and colors, which cost nearly eight pounds more, and the frame was the cheapest Icould possibly get. Mr. Allston's frame cost him sixty guineas. "Frames are very expensive things, and, on that account, I shall notattempt another large picture for some time, although Mr. West advises meto paint _large_ as much as possible. "The picture which I have finished is 'The Death of Hercules'; the sizeis eight feet by six feet six inches. This picture I showed to Mr. West afew weeks ago, and he was extremely pleased with it and paid me very manyhigh compliments; but as praise comes better from another than from one'sself, I shall send you a complimentary note which Mr. West has promisedto send me on the occasion. "I sent the picture to the Exhibition at Somerset House which opens onthe 3d of May, and have the satisfaction not only of having it received, but of having the praises of the council who decide on the admission ofpictures. Six hundred were refused admission this year, so you maysuppose that a picture (of the size of mine, too) must possess some meritto be received in preference to six hundred. A small picture may bereceived even if it is not very good, because it will serve to fill upsome little space which would otherwise be empty, but a large one, fromits excluding many smaller ones, must possess a great deal in its favorin order to be received. "If you recollect I told you I had completed a model of a single figureof the same subject. This I sent to the Society of Arts at the Adelphi, to stand for the prize (which is offered every year for the bestperformance in painting, sculpture, and architecture and is a _goldmedal_). "Yesterday I received the note accompanying this, by which you will seethat it is adjudged to me in sculpture this year. It will be delivered tome in public on the 13th of May or June, I don't know which, but I shallgive you a particular account of the whole process as soon as I havereceived it. . . . I cannot close this letter without telling you how much Iam indebted to that excellent man Mr. Allston. He is extremely partial tome and has often told me that he is proud of calling me his pupil. Hevisits me every evening and our conversation is generally upon theinexhaustible subject of our divine art, and upon _home_ which is next inour thoughts. "I know not in what terms to speak of Mr. Allston. I can truly say I donot know the slightest imperfection in him. He is amiable, affectionate, learned, possessed of the greatest powers of mind and genius, modest, unassuming, and, above all, a religious man. . . . I could write a quire ofpaper in his praise, but all I could say of him would give you but a veryimperfect idea of him. . . . "You must recollect, when you tell friends that I am studying in England, that I am a pupil of Allston and not Mr. West. They will not long ask whoMr. Allston is; he will very soon astonish the world. He claims me as hispupil, and told me a day or two since, in a jocose manner, that he shouldhave a battle with Mr. West unless he gave up all pretension to me. " We gain further information concerning Morse's first triumphs, hispainting and his statuette from the following reminiscences of a friend, Mr. Dunlap:-- "It was about the year 1812 that Allston commenced his celebrated pictureof the 'Dead Man restored to Life by touching the Bones of Elisha, ' whichis now in the Pennsylvania Academy of Arts. In the study of this picturehe made a model in clay of the head of the dead man to assist him inpainting the expression. This was the practice of the most eminent oldmasters. Morse had begun a large picture to come out before the Britishpublic at the Royal Academy Exhibition. The subject was the 'DyingHercules, ' and, in order to paint it with the more effect, he followedthe example of Allston and determined to model the figure in clay. It washis first attempt at modelling. "His original intention was simply to complete such parts of the figureas were useful in the single view necessary for the purpose of painting;but, having done this, he was encouraged, by the approbation of Allstonand other artists, to finish the entire figure. "After completing it, he had it cast in plaster of Paris and carried itto show to West, who seemed more than pleased with it. After surveying itall round critically, with many exclamations of surprise, he sent hisservant to call his son Raphael. As soon as Raphael made his appearanceWest pointed to the figure and said: 'Look there, sir; I have always toldyou any painter can make a sculptor. ' "From this model Morse painted his picture of the 'Dying Hercules, ' ofcolossal size, and sent it, in May, 1813, to the Royal Academy Exhibitionat Somerset House. " The picture was well received. A critic of one of the journals of thatday in speaking of the Royal Academy thus notices Morse:-- "Of the academicians two or three have distinguished themselves in apreëminent degree; besides, few have added much to their fame, perhapsthey have hardly sustained it. But the great feature in this exhibitionis that it presents several works of very high merit by artists withwhose performances, and even with whose names, we were hithertounacquainted. At the head of this class are Messrs. Monroe and Morse. Theprize of history may be contended for by Mr. Northcote and Mr. Stothard. We should award it to the former. After these gentlemen Messrs. Hilton, Turner, Lane, Monroe, and Morse follow in the same class. " (London"Globe, " May 14, 1813. ) [Illustration: THE DYING HERCULESPainted by Morse in 1813] In commemorating the "preëminent works of this exhibition, " out of nearlytwo thousand pictures, this critic places the "Dying Hercules" among thefirst twelve. On June 13, 1813, Morse thus writes to his parents:-- "I send by this opportunity (Mr. Elisha Goddard) the little cast of theHercules which obtained the prize this year at the Adelphi, and also thegold medal, which was the premium presented to me, before a largeassembly of the nobility and gentry of the country, by the Duke ofNorfolk, who also paid me a handsome compliment at the same time. "There were present Lord Percy, the Margravine of Anspach, the Turkish, Sardinian, and Russian Ambassadors, who were pointed out to me, and manynoblemen whom I do not now recollect. "My great picture also has not only been received at the Royal Academy, but has one of the finest places in the rooms. It has been spoken of inthe papers, which you must know is considered a great compliment; for ayoung artist, unless extraordinary, is seldom or never mentioned till hehas exhibited several times. They not only praise me, but place mypicture among the most attractive in the exhibition. This I know willgive you pleasure. " CHAPTER VI JULY 10, 1813--APRIL 6, 1814 Letter from the father on economies and political views. --Morsedeprecates lack of spirit in New England and rejoices at Wellington'svictories. --Allston's poems. --Morse coat-of-arms. --Letter of JosephHillhouse. --Letter of exhortation from his mother. --Morse wishes to staylonger in Europe. --Amused at mother's political views. --The father sendsmore money for a longer stay. --Sidney exalts poetry above painting. --Hismother warns him against infidels and actors. --Bristol. --Optimism. --Letter on infidels and his own religious observances. --Future of Americanart. --He is in good health, but thin. --Letter from Mr. Visger. --BenjaminBurritt, American prisoner. --Efforts in his behalf unsuccessful. --Captureof Paris by the Allies. --Again expresses gratitude to parents. --Writes aplay for Charles Mathews. --Not produced. The detailed accounts of his economies which the young man sent home tohis parents seem to have deeply touched them, for on July 10, 1813, hisfather writes to him: "Your economy, industry, and success in pursuingyour professional studies give your affectionate parents the highestgratification and reward. We wish you to avoid carrying your economy toan _extreme_. Let your appearance be suited to the respectable companyyou keep, and your living such as will conduce most effectually topreserve health of body and vigor of mind. We shall all be willing tomake sacrifices at home so far as may be necessary to the abovepurposes. " Farther on in this same letter the father says: "The character you giveof Mr. Allston is, indeed, an exalted one, and we believe it correctlydrawn. Your ardor has given it a high coloring, but the excess is that ofan affectionate and grateful heart. " Referring to his son's political views, he answers in these broad-mindedwords:-- "I approve your love of your country and concern for its honor. Yourerrors, as we think them, appear to be the errors of a fair and honestmind, and are of a kind to be effectually cured by correct information offacts on both sides. "Probably we may err because we are ignorant of many things which havefallen under your notice. We shall no doubt agree when we shall haveopportunity to compare notes, and each is made acquainted with all thatthe other knows. I confidently expect an honorable peace in the course ofsix months, but may be deceived, as the future course of things cannot beforeseen. "The present is one of the finest and most promising seasons I ever knew;the harvest to appearance will be very abundant. Heaven appears to berewarding this part of the country for their conduct in opposing thepresent war. " Perhaps the good father did not mean to be malicious, but this is rathera wicked little thrust at the son's vehemently expressed political views. On this very same date, July 10, 1813, Morse writes to his parents:-- "I have just heard of the unfortunate capture of the Chesapeake. Is ourinfant Hercules to be strangled at his birth? Where is the spirit offormer times which kindled in the hearts of the Bostonians? Will theystill be unmoved, or must they learn from more bitter experience thatBritain is not for peace, and that the only way to procure it is to joinheart and hand in a vigorous prosecution of the war? "It is not the time now to think of party; the country is in danger; butI hope to hear soon that the honor of our navy is retrieved. The braveCaptain Lawrence will never, I am sure, be forgotten; his career of gloryhas been short but brilliant. "All is rejoicing here; illuminations and fireworks and _feux de joie_for the capture of the Chesapeake and a victory in Spain. "Imagine yourself, if possible, in my situation in an enemy's country andhearing songs of triumph and exultation on the misfortunes of mycountrymen, and this, too, on the 4th of July. A less ardent spirit thanmine might perhaps tolerate it, but I cannot. I do long to be at home, tobe in the navy, and teach these insolent Englishmen how to respect us. . . . "The Marquis Wellington has achieved a great victory in Spain, and bidsfair to drive the French out very soon. At this I rejoice as ought everyman who abhors tyranny and loves liberty. I wish the British successagainst everything but _my country_. I often say with Cowper: 'England, with all thy faults, I love thee still. ' "I am longing for Edwards' comparison between poetry and painting, and toknow how he will prove the former superior to the latter. A painter_must_ be a poet, but a poet need not be a painter. How will he get overthis argument? "By the way, Mr. Allston has just published a volume of poems, a copy ofwhich I will endeavor to send you. They are but just published, so thatthe opinion of the public is not yet ascertained, but there is no doubtthey will forever put at rest the calumny that America has never produceda poet. "I have lately been enquiring for the coat-of-arms which belongs to theMorse family. For this purpose I wish to know from what part of thisKingdom the Morses emigrated, and if you can recollect anything thatbelongs to the arms. If you will answer these questions minutely, I can, for half a crown, ascertain the arms and crest which belong to thefamily, which (as there is a degree of importance attached to heraldry inthis country) may be well to know. I have seen the arms of one Morsewhich have been in the family three hundred years. So we can trace ourantiquity as far as any family. " A letter from a college-mate, Mr. Joseph Hillhouse, written in Boston onJuly 12, 1813, gives a pretty picture of Morse's home, and contains somequaint gossip which I shall transcribe:-- "On Saturday afternoon the beauty of the weather invited my cousinCatherine Borland, my sister Mary (who is here on a visit), and myself totake a walk over to Charlestown for the purpose of paying a visit to yourgood parents. We found them just preparing tea, and at once concluded tojoin the family party. "Present to the eye of your fancy the closing-in of a fine, blue-skied, sunny American Saturday evening, whose tranquillity and repose renderedit the fit precursor of the Sabbath. Imagine the tea-table placed in yoursitting-parlor, all the windows open, and round it, first, thehousekeeper pouring out tea; next her, Miss C. Borland; next her, yourmother, whose looks spoke love as often as you were mentioned, and thatwas not infrequently, I assure you. On your mother's right sat my sister, next whom was your father in his long green-striped study gown, hisapostolic smile responding to the eye of your mother when his dear sonwas his theme. I was placed (and an honorable post I considered it) athis right hand. "There the scene for you. Can you paint it? Neither of your brothers wasat home. . . . "In home news we have little variety. The sister of your quondam flame, Miss Ann Hart, bestowed her hand last winter on Victory as personified inour little fat captain, Isaac Hull, who is now reposing in the shade ofhis laurels, and amusing himself in directing the construction of aseventy-four at Portsmouth. Where the fair excellence, Miss Jannetteherself, is at present, I am unable to say. The sunshine of her eyes hasnot beamed upon me since I beheld you delightedly and gallantly figuringat her side at Daddy Value's ball, where I exhibited sundry feats of thesame sort myself. "By the way, Mons. V. Is still in fiddling condition, and the immaculateAnn Jane Caroline Gibbs, Madame, has bestowed a subject on the state!! "A fortnight since your friend Nancy Goodrich was married to WilliamEllsworth. Emily Webster is soon to plight her faith to his brotherHenry. Miss Mary Ann Woolsey thinks of consummating the blessedness of aMr. Scarborough before the expiration of the summer. He is a widower ofthirty or thirty-five with one child, a little girl four or five yearsold. "Thus, you see, my dear friend, all here seem to be setting their facesheavenward; all seem ambitious of repairing the ravages of war. . . . "P. S. Oh! horrid mistake I made on the preceding page! Nancy and Emily, on my knees I deprecate your wrath!! I have substituted William for Henryand Henry for William. No, Henry is Nancy's and William Emily's. They aretwins, and I, forsooth, must make them changelings!" In a letter of July 30, 1813, his mother thus exhorts him:-- "I hope, my dear son, your success in your profession will not have atendency to make you vain, or embolden you to look down on any in yourprofession whom Providence may have been less favorable to in point oftalents for this particular business; and that you will observe a modestyin the reception of premiums and praises on account of your talents, thatshall show to those who bestow them that you are worthy of them in moresenses than merely as an artist. It will likewise convince those who areless favored that you are far from exulting in their disappointments, --asI hope is truly the case, --and prevent that jealousy and envy that toooften discovers itself in those of the same profession. . . . "We exceedingly rejoice in all your success, and hope you will persevere. Remember, my son, it is easier to get a reputation than to keep itunspotted in the midst of so much pollution as we are surrounded by. . . . "C. Dexter thanks you for your attention to her request as it respectsSouthey's likeness. She does not wish you to take too much pains andtrouble to get it, but she, I know, would be greatly pleased if youshould send her one of him. If you should get acquainted with him, informhim that a very sensible, fine young lady in America requested it (butdon't tell him her name) from having read his works. " In a long letter of August 10 and 26, 1813, after again giving free reinto his political feelings, he returns to the subject of his art:-- "Mr. West promised me a note to you, but he is an old man and veryforgetful, and I suppose he has forgotten it. I don't wish to remind himof it directly, but, if in the course of conversation I can contrive tomention it, I will. . . . "With respect to returning home next summer, Mr. Allston and Mr. Westthink it would be an injury to me. Mr. Allston says I ought not to returntill I am a _painter_. I long to return as much as you can wish to haveme, but, if you can spare me a little longer, I should wish it. I abideyour decision, however, completely. Mr. Allston will write you fully onthis subject, and I will endeavor to persuade Mr. West also to do it. "France I could not, at present, visit with advantage; that is to sayfor, perhaps, a year. Mr. Allston thinks I ought to be previously wellgrounded in the principles of the English school to resist thecorruptions of the French school; for they are corrupt in the principlesof painting, as in religion and everything else; but, when well groundedin the good principles of this school, I could study and select the fewbeauties of the French without being in danger of following their manyerrors. The Louvre also would, in about a year, be of the greatestadvantage to me, and also the fine works in Italy. . . . "Mama has amused me very much in her letter where she writes on politics. She says that, next to changing one's religion, she would dislike a manfor changing his politics. Mama, perhaps, is not aware that she would inthis way shut the door completely to conviction in anything. It wouldimply that, because a man is educated in error, he must forever live inerror. I know exactly how mama feels; she thinks, as I did when at home, that it was impossible for the Federalists to be in the wrong; but, asall men are fallible, I think they may stand a chance of being wrong aswell as any other class of people. . . . "Mama thinks my '_error_' arises from wrong information. I will ask mamawhich of us is likely to get at the truth; I, who am in England and cansee and hear all their motives for acting as they have done; or mama, whogets her information from the Federal papers, second-hand, with numerousadditions and improvements made to answer party purposes, distorted andmisrepresented? "But to give you an instance. In the Massachusetts remonstrance theyattribute the repeal of the Orders in Council to the kind disposition ofthe English Government, and a wish on their part to do justice, whereasit is notorious in this country that they repealed them on account of theinjury it was doing themselves, and took America into consideration aboutas much as they did the inhabitants of Kamschatka. The conditional repealof the Berlin and Milan decrees was a back door for them, and theyavailed themselves of it to sneak out of it. This necessity, this act ofdire necessity, the Federal papers cry up as evincing a most forbearingspirit towards us, and really astonish the English themselves who neverdreamt that it could be twisted in that way. "Mama assigns as a reason for my thinking well of the English that theyhave been very polite to me, and that it is ingratitude in me if I dootherwise. A few individuals have treated me politely, and I do feelthankful and gratified for it; but a little politeness from an individualof one nation to an individual of another is certainly not a reason thatthe former's Government should be esteemed incapable of wrong by thelatter. I esteem the English as a nation; I rejoice in their conquests onthe Continent, and would love them heartily, if they would let me; but Iam afraid to tell them this, they are already too proud. "Their treatment of America is the worse for it. They are like a poor manwho has got a lottery ticket and draws a great prize, and when his poorneighbor comes sincerely to congratulate him on his success, he holds uphis head, and, turning up his nose, tells him that now he is his superiorand then kicks him out of doors. "Papa says he expects peace in six months. It may be in the dispositionof America to make peace, but not in the will of the English. It is inthe power of the Federalists to force her to peace, but they will not doit, so she will force us to do it. " As in most discussions, political or otherwise, neither party seems tohave been convinced by the arguments of the other, for the parentscontinue to urge him to leave politics alone; indeed, they insist on hisdoing so. They also urge him to make every effort to support himself, ifhe should decide to spend another year abroad, for they fear that theywill be unable to send him any more money. However, the father, when hebecame convinced that it was really to his son's interest to spendanother year abroad, contrived to send him another thousand dollars. Thiswas done at the cost of great self-sacrifice on the part of himself andhis family, and was all the more praiseworthy on that account. In a letter from his brother Edwards, written also on the 17th ofNovember, is this passage: "I must defer giving my reasons for thinkingPoetry superior to Painting; I will mention only a few of the principlesupon which I found my judgment. Genius in both these arts is the power ofmaking impressions. The question then is: which is capable of making thestrongest impression; which can impress upon the mind most strongly asublime or a beautiful idea? Does the sublimest passage in Milton excitea stronger sensation in the mind of a man of taste than the sublimestpainting of Michael Angelo? Or, to make the parallel more complete, doesMichael Angelo convey to you a stronger impression of the Last Judgment, by his painting, than Milton could by his poetry? Could Michael Angeloconvey a more sublime idea of Death by his painting than Milton has inhis 'Paradise Lost'? These are the principles upon which your 'divineart' is to be degraded below Poetry. " This was rather acute reasoning for a boy of twenty who had spent hislife in the Boston and New Haven of those early days. The fact that hehad never seen a great painting, whereas he had greedily read the poets, will probably account for his strong partisanship. The pious mother writes on November 25, 1813:-- "With regard to the Americans being despised and hated in England, youwere apprised by your Uncle Salisbury and others before you left thiscountry that that was the case, and you ought not to be surprised whenyou realized it. The reason given was that a large portion of those whovisit Europe are _dissipated infidels_, which has justly given theEnglish a bad opinion of us as a nation. But we are happy to find thatthere are many exceptions to these, who do honor to the country whichgave them birth, such as a West, an Allston, and many others, among whom, I am happy to say, we hope that you, my son, will be enrolled at no verydistant day. . . . "You mention being acquainted with young Payne, the play actor. I wouldguard you against any acquaintance with that description of people, as itwill, sooner or later, have a most corrupting effect on the morals, and, as a man is known by the company he keeps, I should be very sorry to haveyou enrolled with such society, however pure you may believe his moralsto be. "Your father and myself were eleven days in company with him in comingfrom Charleston, South Carolina. His behavior was quite unexceptionablethen, but he is in a situation to ruin the best morals. I hope you do notattend the theatre, as I have ever considered it a most bewitchingamusement, and ruinous both to soul and body. I would therefore guard youagainst it. " His brother Richard joined the rest of the family in urging the young andimpulsive artist to leave politics alone, as we learn from the followingwords which begin a letter of November 27, 1813:-- MY DEAR BROTHER, --Your letters by the Neptune, and also the medal, gaveus great pleasure. The politics, however, were very disagreeable andoccupied no inconsiderable part of your letters. Your kind wishes for_our_ reformation we must beg leave to retort by hoping for _your_ speedyamendment. There are gaps in the correspondence of this period. Many of the lettersfrom both sides of the Atlantic seem never to have reached theirdestination, owing to the disturbed state of affairs arising from the warbetween the two countries. The young artist had gone in October, 1813, to Bristol, at the earnestsolicitation of friends in that city, and seems to have spent a pleasantand profitable five months there, painting a number of portraits. Herefers to letters written from Bristol, but they were either neverreceived or not preserved. Of other letters I have only fragments, andsome that are quoted by Mr. Prime in his biography have vanished utterly. Still, from what remains, we can glean a fairly good idea of the life ofthe young man at that period. His parents continually begged him to leavepolitics alone and to tell them more of his artistic life, of his visitsto interesting places, and of his intercourse with the literary andartistic celebrities of the day. We, too, must regret that he did not write more fully on these subjects, for there must have been a mine of interesting material at his disposal. We also learn that there seems to have been a strange fatality attachedto the little statuette of the "Dying Hercules, " for, although he packedit carefully and sent it to Liverpool on June 18, 1813, to be forwardedto his parents, it never reached them until over two years later. Thesuperstitious will say that the date of sending may have had something todo with this. Up to this time everything, except the attitude of England towardsAmerica, had been _couleur de rose_ to the enthusiastic young artist. Hewas making rapid progress in his studies and was receiving the encomiumsof his fellow artists and of the critics. His parents were denyingthemselves in order to provide the means for his support, and, while hewas duly appreciative of their goodness, he could not help taking it moreor less as a matter of course. He was optimistic with regard to thefuture, falling into the common error of gifted young artists that, because of their artistic success, financial success must of necessityfollow. He had yet to be proved in the school of adversity, and he hadnot long to wait. But I shall let the letters tell the story better thanI can. The last letter from him to his parents from which I have quotedwas written on August 12 and 26, 1813. On March 12, 1814, he writes from London after his return from Bristol:-- "There is a great drawback to my writing long letters to you; I mean theuncertainty of their reaching you. "Mama's long letter gave me particular pleasure. Some of herobservations, however, made me smile, especially the reasons she assignsfor the contempt and hatred of England for America. First, I am inclinedto doubt the fact of there being so many _infidel_ Americans in thecountry; second, if there were, there are not so many _religious_ peoplehere who would take the pains to enquire whether they had religion ornot; and third, it is not by seeing the individual Americans that anopinion unfavorable to us is prevalent in England. . . . "With respect to my religious sentiments, they are unshaken; theirinfluence, I hope, will always guide me through life. I hear variouspreachings on Sundays, sometimes Mr. Burder, but most commonly the Churchof England clergy, as a church is in my neighborhood and Mr. B. 's threemiles distant. I most commonly heard Dr. Biddulph, of St. James's Church, a most excellent, orthodox, evangelical man. I was on the point manytimes of going to hear Mr. Lowell, who is one of the dissenting clergymenof Bristol, but, as the weather proved very unfavorable, uncommonly soevery Sunday I was there, and I was at a great distance from his church, I was disappointed. I shall endeavor to hear him preach when I go back toBristol again. " This was in reply to many long exhortations in his parents' letters, andespecially in his mother's, couched in the extravagant language of thevery pious of those days, to seek first the welfare of his "never-dyingsoul. " "I have returned from Bristol to attend the exhibitions and to endeavorto get a picture into Somerset House. My stay in Bristol was verypleasant, indeed, as well as profitable. I was there five months and, inMay, shall probably go again and stay all summer. I was getting into goodbusiness in the portrait way there, and, if I return, shall be enabled, probably, to support myself as long as I stay in England. "The attention shown me by Mr. Harman Visger and family, whom I havementioned in a former letter, I shall never forget. He is a richmerchant, an American (cousin to Captain Visscher, my fellow passenger, by whom I was introduced to him). He has a family of seven children. Ilived within a few doors of him, and was in and out of his house everday. . . . " Four pages of this letter are, unfortunately, missing. It begins againabruptly:-- ". . . Prevented by illness from writing you before. "I shall endeavor to support myself, if not, necessity will compel me toreturn home an unfinished painter; it depends altogether oncircumstances. I may get a good run of portraits or I may not; it dependsso much on the whim of the public; if they should happen to fancy mypictures, I shall succeed; if not, why, I shall not succeed. I am, however, encouraged to hope. . . . "If I am prohibited from writing or thinking of politics, I hope mybrothers will not be so ungenerous as to give me any. . . . "Mr. Allston's large picture is now exhibiting in the British Gallery. Ithas excited a great deal of curiosity and he has obtained a wonderfulshare of praise for it. . . . The picture is very deservedly ranked amongthe highest productions of art, either in ancient or modern times. It isreally a pleasant consideration that the palm of painting still restswith America, and is, in all probability, destined to remain with us. Allwe wish is a taste in the country and a little more wealth. . . . In orderto create a taste, however, pictures, first-rate pictures, must beintroduced into the country, for taste is only acquired by a close studyof the merits of the old masters. In Philadelphia I am happy to find theyhave successfully begun. I wish Americans would unite in the thing, throwaside local prejudices and give their support to _one_ institution. Letit be in Philadelphia, since it is so happily begun there, and let everyAmerican feel a pride in supporting that institution; let it be anational not a city institution. Then might the arts be so encouragedthat Americans might remain at home and not, as at present, be under thepainful necessity of exiling themselves from their country and theirfriends. "This will come to pass in the course of time, but not in my day, I fear, unless there is more exertion made to forward the arts than atpresent. . . . " In this he proved a true prophet, and, as we shall see later, hisexertions were a potent factor in establishing the fine arts on a firmbasis in New York. "I am in very good health and I hope I feel grateful for it. I have notbeen ill for two days together since I have been in England. I am, however, of the _walking-stick_ order, and think I am thinner than I wasat home. They all tell me so. I'm not so good-looking either, I am told;I have lost my color, grown more sallow, and have a face approaching tothe hatchet class; but none of these things concern me; if I can paintgood-looking, plump ladies and gentlemen, I shall feel satisfied. . . . "We have had a dreadfully severe winter here in England, such as has notbeen known for twenty-two years. When I came from Bristol the snow was upon each side of the road as high as the top of the coach in many places, especially on Marlborough Down and Hounslow Heath. " His friend Mr. Visger thus writes to him from Bristol on April 1, 1814:-- "It gave me pleasure to learn that Mr. Leslie sold his picture of Saul, etc. , at so good a price. I hope it will stimulate a friend of his to usehis best exertions and time to endeavor even to excel the 'Witch ofEndor. ' I think I perceive a few symptoms of amendment in him, and therequest of his father that he must support himself is, in the opinion ofhis friends here, the best thing that could have befallen him. He willnow have the pleasure to taste the sweets of his own labor, and I hopewill, in reality, know what true independence is. Let him not despair andhe will certainly succeed. "Excuse my having taken up so much of your time in reading what I havewritten about Mr. Leslie's friend; I hope it will not make the pencilwork less smoothly. "It gave us all great pleasure to hear that Mr. Allston's 'Dead and AliveMan' got the prize. It would be a great addition to our pleasure to hearthat those encouragers of the fine arts have offered him fifteen hundredor two thousand guineas for it. . . . "There is an old lady waiting your return to have her portrait painted. Bangley says one or two more are enquiring for Mr. Morse. "You seem to have forgotten your friend in Stapleton prison. Did you notsucceed in obtaining his release?" This refers to a certain Mr. Benjamin Burritt, an American prisoner ofwar. Morse used every effort, through his friend Henry Thornton, tosecure the release of Mr. Burritt. On December 30, 1813, he wrote to Mr. Thornton from Bristol:-- RESPECTED SIR, --I take the liberty of addressing you in behalf of anAmerican prisoner of war now in the Stapleton depot, and I address you, sir, under the conviction that a petition in the cause of humanity willnot be considered by you as obtrusive. The prisoner I allude to is a gentleman of the name of Burritt, a nativeof New Haven, in the State of Connecticut; his connections are of thehighest respectability in that city, which is notorious for its adherenceto Federal principles. His friends and relatives are among my father'sfriends, and, although I was not, until now, personally acquainted withhim, yet his face is familiar to me, and many of his relatives were myparticular friends while I was receiving my education at Yale College inNew Haven. From that college he was graduated in the year ----. Aclassmate of his was the Reverend Mr. Stuart, who is one of theprofessors of the Andover Theological Institution, and of whom, I think, my father has spoken in some of his letters to Mr. Wilberforce. Mr. Burritt, after he left college, applied himself to study, so much soas to injure his health, and, by the advice of his physicians, he took tothe sea as the only remedy left for him. This had the desired effect, andhe was restored to health in a considerable degree. Upon the breaking out of the war with this country, all the Americancoasting trade being destroyed, he took a situation as second mate in theschooner Revenge, bound to France, and was captured on the 10th of May, 1813. Since that time he has been a prisoner, and, from the enclosedcertificates, you will ascertain what has been his conduct. He is a manof excellent religious principles, and, I firmly believe, of thestrictest integrity. So well assured am I of this that, in case it shouldbe required, _I will hold myself bound to answer for him in my ownperson_. His health is suffering by his confinement, and the unprincipled society, which he is obliged to endure, is peculiarly disagreeable to a man of hiseducation. My object in stating these particulars to you, sir, is (if possible andconsistent with the laws of the country), to obtain for him, through yourinfluence, his liberty on his parole of honor. By so doing you willprobably be the means of preserving the life of a good man, and will layhis friends, my father, and myself under the greatest obligations. Trusting to your goodness to pardon this intrusion upon your time, I am, sir, with the highest consideration, Your most humble, obedient servant, SAMUEL F. B. MORSE. To this Mr. Thornton replied:-- DEAR SIR, --You will perceive by the enclosed that there is, unhappily, noprospect of our effecting our wishes in respect to your poor friend atBristol. I shall be glad to know whether you have had any success inobtaining a passport for Dr. Cushing. I am, dear sir, yours, etc. H. THORNTON. The enclosure referred to by Mr. Thornton was the following letteraddressed to him by Lord Melville:-- SIR, --Mr. Hay having communicated to me a letter which he received fromyou on the subject of Benjamin Burritt, an American prisoner of war inthe depot at Stapleton, I regret much that, after consulting on this casewith Sir Rupert George, and ascertaining the usual course of procedure insimilar instances, I cannot discover any circumstances that would justifya departure from the rules observed toward other prisoners of the samedescription. There can be no question that his case is a hard one, but I am afraidthat it is inseparable from a state of war. It is not only not a solitaryinstance among the French and American prisoners, but, unless we wereprepared to adopt the system of releasing all others of the samedescription, we should find that the number who might justly complain ofundue partiality to this man would be very considerable. I have the honor to be, sir, your most obedient and very humble servant, MELVILLE. This was a great disappointment to Morse, who had set his heart on beingthe means of securing the liberty of this unfortunate man. He wascompelled to bow to the inevitable, however, and after this he did whathe could to make the unhappy situation of the prisoner more bearable byextending to him financial assistance, although he had but little tospare at that time himself, and could but ill afford the luxury ofgiving. Great events were occurring on the Continent at this time, and it isinteresting to note how the intelligence of them was received in Englandby an enthusiastic student, not only of the fine arts, but of thehumanities, who felt that, in this case, his sympathies and those of hisfamily were in accord:-- April 6, 1814. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I write in much haste, but it is to inform you of amost glorious event, no less than the capture of Paris, by the Allies. They entered it last Thursday, and you may conceive the sensations of thepeople of England on the occasion. As the cartel is the first vesselwhich will arrive in America to carry the news, I hope I shall have thegreat satisfaction of hearing that I am the first who shall inform you ofthis great event; the particulars you will see nearly as soon as this. I congratulate you and the rest of the good people of the world on theoccasion. _Despotism_ and _Usurpation_ are fallen, never, I hope, to riseagain. But what gives me the greatest pleasure in the contemplation ofthis occurrence is the spirit of religion and, consequently, of humanitywhich has constantly marked the conduct of the Allies. Their moderationthrough all their unparallelled successes cannot be too much extolled;they merit the grateful remembrance of posterity, who will bless them asthe restorers of a blessing but little enjoyed by the greater part ofmankind for centuries. I mean the inestimable blessing of _Peace_. But I must cut short my feelings on the subject; were I to give themscope they would fill quires; they are as ardent as yours possibly canbe. Suffice it to say that I see the hand of Providence so strongly in itthat I think an infidel must be converted by it, and I hope I feel as aChristian should on such an occasion. I am well, in excellent spirits and shall use my utmost endeavors tosupport myself, for now more than ever is it necessary for me to stay inEurope. Peace is inevitable, and the easy access to the Continent and thefine works of art there render it doubly important that I should improvethem to my utmost. I cannot ask more of my parents than they have done for me, but thestruggle will be hard for me to get along and improve myself at the sametime. Portraits are the only things which can support me at present, butit is insipid, indeed, for one who wishes to be at the head of the firstbranch of the art, to be stopped halfway, and be obliged to struggle withthe difficulty of maintaining himself, in addition to the otherdifficulties attendant on the profession. But it is impossible to place this in a clear light in a letter. I wish Icould talk with you on the subject, and I could in a short time make itclear to you. I cannot ask it of you and I do not till I try what I cando. You have already done more than I deserved and it would beingratitude in me to request more of you, and I do not; only I say thesethings that you may not expect so much from me in the way of improvementas you may have been led to suppose. Morse seems to have made an excursion into dramatic literature at aboutthis time, as the following draft of a letter, without date, butevidently written to the celebrated actor Charles Mathews, willtestify:-- Not having the honor of a personal acquaintance with you, I have takenthe liberty of enclosing to you a farce which, if, on perusal, you shouldthink worthy of the stage, I beg you to accept, to be performed, ifconsistent with your plans, on the night appointed for your benefit. If I should be so much favored as to obtain your good opinion of it, theapprobation alone of Mr. Mathews will be a sufficient reward for the taskof writing it. The pleasure which I have so often received from you in the exercise ofyour comic powers would alone prompt me to make some return which mightshow you, at least, that I can be grateful to those who have at any timeafforded me pleasure. With respect to your accepting or not accepting it, I wish you to actyour pleasure entirely. If you think it will be of benefit to you bydrawing a full house, or in any other way, it is perfectly at yourservice. If you think it will not succeed, will you have the goodness toenclose it under cover and direct to Mr. T. G. S. , artist, 82 GreatTitchfield Street; and I assure you beforehand that you need be under noapprehension of giving me mortification by refusing it. It would onlyconvince me that I had not dramatic talents, and would serve, perhaps, toincrease my ardor in the pursuit of my professional studies. If, however, it should meet with your approbation and you should wish to see me on thesubject, a line directed as above enclosing your address shall receiveimmediate attention. I am as yet undecided what shall be its name. The character of Oxyd I haddesigned for you. The farce is a first attempt and has received theapprobation, not only of my theatrical friends generally, but of someconfessed critics by whom it has been commended. With sentiments of respect and esteem I remain, Your most obedient humbleservant, T. G. S. As no further mention of this play is made I fear that the great CharlesMathews did not find it available. There is also no trace of the playitself among the papers, which is rather to be regretted. We can onlysurmise that Morse came to the conclusion (very wisely) that he had no"dramatic talents, " and that he turned to the pursuit of his professionalstudies with increased ardor. CHAPTER VII MAY 2, 1814--OCTOBER 11, 1814 Allston writes encouragingly to the parents. --Morse unwilling to be mereportrait-painter. --Ambitious to stand at the head of his profession. --Desires patronage from wealthy friends. --Delay in the mails. --Account of_entrée_ of Louis XVIII into London. --The Prince Regent. --Indignation atacts of English. --His parents relieved at hearing from him after sevenmonths' silence. --No hope of patronage from America. --His brothers. --Account of fêtes. --Emperor Alexander, King of Prussia, Blücher, Platoff. --Wishes to go to Paris. --Letter from M. Van Schaick about battle of LakeErie. --Disgusted with England. Morse had now spent nearly three years in England. He was maturingrapidly in every way, and what his master thought of him is shown in thisextract from a letter of Washington Allston to the anxious parent athome:-- "With regard to the progress which your son has made, I have the pleasureto say that it is unusually great for the time he has been studying, andindeed such as to make me proud of him as a pupil and to give everypromise of future eminence. . . . "Should he be obliged to return _now_ to America, I much fear that allwhich he has acquired would be rendered abortive. It is true he couldthere paint very good portraits, but I should grieve to hear at anyfuture period that, on the foundation now laid, he shall have been ableto raise no higher superstructure than the fame of a portrait-painter. Ido not intend here any disrespect to portrait-painting; I know itrequires no common talent to excel in it. . . . "In addition to this _professional report_ I have the sinceresatisfaction to give my testimony to his conduct as a man, which is suchas to render him still worthy of being affectionately remembered by hismoral and religious friends in America. This is saying a great deal for ayoung man of two-and-twenty in London, but is not more than justicerequires me to say of him. " On May 2, 1814, Morse writes home:-- "You ask if you are to expect me the next summer. This leads me to alittle enlargement on the peculiar circumstances in which I am nowplaced. Mr. Allston's letter by the same cartel will convince you thatindustry and application have not been wanting on my part, that I havemade greater progress than young men generally, etc. , etc. , and of howgreat importance it is to me to remain in Europe for some time yet tocome. Indeed I feel it so much so myself that I shall endeavor to stay atall risks. If I find that I cannot support myself, that I am contractingdebts which I have no prospect of paying, I shall then return home andsettle down into a mere portrait-painter for some time, till I can obtainsufficient to return to Europe again; for I cannot be happy unless I ampursuing the intellectual branch of the art. Portraits have none of it;landscape has some of it, but history has it wholly. I am certain youwould not be satisfied to see me sit down quietly, spending my time inpainting portraits, throwing away the talents which Heaven has given mefor the higher branches of art, and devoting my time only to theinferior. "I need not tell you what a difficult profession I have undertaken. Ithas difficulties in itself which are sufficient to deter any man who hasnot firmness enough to go through with it at all hazards, without meetingwith any obstacles aside from it. The more I study it, the more I amenchanted with it; and the greater my progress, the more am I struck withits beauties, and the perseverance of those who have dared to pursue itthrough the thousands of natural hindrances with which the art abounds. "I never can feel too grateful to my parents for having assisted me thusfar in my profession. They have done more than I had any right to expect;they have conducted themselves with a liberality towards me, both inrespect to money and to countenancing me in the pursuit of one of thenoblest of professions, which has not many equals in this country. Icannot ask of them more; it would be ingratitude. "I am now in the midst of my studies when the great works of ancient artare of the utmost service to me. Political events have just thrown openthe whole Continent; the whole world will now leave war and bend theirattention to the cultivation of the arts of peace. A golden age is inprospect, and art is probably destined to again revive as in thefifteenth century. "The Americans at present stand unrivalled, and it is my great ambition(and it is certainly a commendable one) to stand among the first. Mycountry has the most prominent place in my thoughts. How shall I raiseher name, how can I be of service in refuting the calumny, soindustriously spread against her, that she has produced no men of genius?It is this more than anything (aside from painting) that inspires me witha desire to excel in my art. It arouses my indignation and gives metenfold energy in the pursuit of my studies. I should like to be thegreatest painter _purely out of revenge_. "But what a damper is thrown upon my enthusiasm when I find that, themoment when all the treasures of art are before me, just within my reach;that advantages to the artist were never greater than now; Paris with allits splendid depository of the greatest works but a day or two's journeyfrom me, and open to my free inspection, --what a damper, I say, is it tofind that my three years' allowance is just expired; that while all mycontemporary students and companions are revelling in these enjoyments, and rapidly advancing in their noble studies, they are leaving me behind, either to return to my country, or, by painting portraits in Bristol, just to be able to live through the year. The thought makes memelancholy, and, for the first time since I left home, have I had one ofmy desponding fits. I have got over it now, for I would not write to youin that mood for the world. My object in stating this is to requestpatronage from some rich individual or individuals for a year or twolonger at the rate of £250 per year. This to be advanced to me, and, ifrequired, to be returned in money as soon as I shall be able, or bypictures to the amount when I have completed my studies. . . . If UncleSalisbury or Miss Russell could do it, it would be much more grateful tome than from any others. . . . "The box containing my plaster cast I found, on enquiry, is still atLiverpool where it has been, to my great disappointment, now nearly ayear. I have given orders to have it sent by the first opportunity. Mr. Wilder will tell you that he came near taking out my great picture of theHercules to you. It seems as though it is destined that nothing of mineshall reach you. I packed it up at a moment's warning and sent it toLiverpool to go by the cartel, and I found it arrived the day after shehad sailed. I hope it will not be long before both the boxes will have anopportunity of reaching you. "I am exceedingly sorry you have forgotten a passage in one of my letterswhere I wished you not to feel anxious if you did not hear from me asoften as you had done. I stated the reason, that opportunities were lessfrequent, more circuitous, and attended with greater interruptions. Itold you that I should write at least once in three weeks, and that youmust attribute it to anything but neglect on my part. "Your last letter has hurt me considerably, for, owing to some accidentor other, my letters have miscarried, and you upbraid me with neglect, and fear that I am not as industrious or correct as formerly. I know youdon't wish to hurt me, but I cannot help feeling hurt when I think thatmy parents have not the confidence which I thought they had in me; thatsome interruptions, which all complain of and which are natural to astate of warfare, having prevented letters, which I have written, frombeing received; instead of making allowances for these things, to havethem attribute it to a falling-off in industry and attention wounds me agreat deal. Mrs. Allston, to her great surprise, received just such aletter from her friends, and it hurt her so that she was ill inconsequence. . . . "I dine at Mr. Macaulay's at five o'clock to-day, and shall attend theHouse of Commons to-morrow evening, where I expect to hear Mr. Wilberforce speak on the Slave Trade, with reference to the propriety ofmaking the universal abolition of it an article in the pendingnegotiations. If I have time in this letter I will give you some accountof it. In the mean time I will give you a slight account of some scenesof which I have been a happy witness in the great drama now acting in theTheatre of Europe. "You will probably, before this reaches you, hear of the splendid_entrée_ of Louis XVIII into London. I was a spectator of this scene. Onthe morning of the day, about ten o'clock, I went into Piccadilly throughwhich the procession was to pass. I did not find any great concourse ofpeople at that hour except before the Pultney Hotel, where the sister ofEmperor Alexander resides on a visit to this country, the Grand Duchessof Oldenburg. I thought it probable that, as the procession would passthis place, there would be some uncommon occurrence taking place beforeit, so I took my situation directly opposite, determined, at any rate, tosecure a good view of what happened. "I waited four or five hours, during which time the people began tocollect from all quarters; the carriages began to thicken, the windowsand fronts of the houses began to be decorated with the white flag, whiteribbons, and laurel. Temporary seats were fitted up on all sides, whichbegan to be filled, and all seemed to be in preparation. About this timethe King's splendid band of music made its appearance, consisting, Isuppose, of more than fifty musicians, and, to my great gratification, placed themselves directly before the hotel. They began to play, and soonafter the grand duchess, attended by several Russian noblemen, made herappearance on the balcony, followed by the Queen of England, the PrincessCharlotte of Wales, the Princess Mary, Princess Elizabeth, and all thefemale part of the royal family. From this fortunate circumstance youwill see that I had an excellent opportunity of observing their personsand countenances. "The Duchess of Oldenburg is a common-sized woman of about four or fiveand twenty; she has rather a pleasant countenance, blue eyes, palecomplexion, regular features, her cheek-bones high, but not disagreeablyso. She resembles very much her brother the Emperor, judging from hisportrait. She had with her her little nephew, Prince Alexander, a boy ofabout three or four years old. He was a lively little fellow, playingabout, and was the principal object of the attention of the royal family. "The Queen, if I was truly directed to her, is an old woman of verysallow complexion, and nothing agreeable either in her countenance ordeportment; and, if she was not called a queen, she might as well be anyugly old woman. The Princess Charlotte of Wales I thought pretty; she hassmall features, regular, pale complexion, great amiability of expressionand condescension of manners; the Princess Elizabeth is extremelycorpulent, and, from what I could see of her face, was agreeable thoughnothing remarkable. "One of the others, I think it was the Princess Mary, appeared to haveconsiderable vivacity in her manners; she was without any covering to herhead, her hair was sandy, which she wore cropped; her complexion wasprobably fair originally, but was rather red now; her features wereagreeable. "It now began to grow late, the people were beginning to be tired, wanting their dinners, and the crowd to thicken, when a universalcommotion and murmur through the crowd and from the housetops indicatedthat the procession was at hand. This was followed by the thunder ofartillery and the huzzas of the people toward the head of the street, where the houses seemed to be alive with the twirling of hats and shakingof handkerchiefs. This seemed to mark the progress of the King; for, ashe came opposite each house, these actions became most violent, withcries of _'Vivent les Bourbons!' 'Vive le Roi!' 'Vive Louis!'_ etc. "I now grew several inches taller; I stretched my neck and opened myeyes. One carriage appeared, drawn by six horses, decorated with ribbons, and containing some of the French _noblesse;_ another, of the samedescription, with some of the French royal family. At length came acarriage drawn by eight beautiful Arabian cream-colored horses. In thiswere seated Louis XVIII, King of France, the Prince Regent of England, the Duchesse d'Angoulême, daughter of Louis XVI, and the Prince of Condé. They passed rather quickly, so that I had but a glance at them, though adistinct one. The Prince Regent I had often seen before; the King ofFrance I had a better sight of afterwards, as I will presently relate. The Duchesse d'Angoulême had a fine expression of countenance, owingprobably to the occasion, but a melancholy cast was also visible throughit; she was pale. The Prince of Condé I have no recollection of. "After this part of the procession had passed, the crowd becameexceedingly oppressive, rushing down the street to keep pace with theKing's carriage. As the King passed the royal family he bowed, which theyreturned by kissing their hands to him and shaking their handkerchiefswith great enthusiasm. After they had gone by, the royal family left thebalcony, where they had been between two and three hours. "My only object now was to get clear of the crowd. I waited nearly threequarters of an hour, and at length, by main strength, worked myselfedgewise across the street, where I pushed down through stables andhouses and by-lanes to get thoroughly clear, not caring where I went, asI knew I could easily find my way when I got into a street. This I atlast gained, and, to my no small astonishment, found myself by merechance directly opposite the hotel where Louis and his suite were. "The Prince Regent had just left the place, and with his carriage went agreat part of the mob, which left the space before the housecomparatively clear. It soon filled again; I took advantage, however, andgot directly before the windows of the hotel, as I expected the Kingwould show himself, for the people were calling for him very clamorously. "I was not disappointed, for, in less than half a minute he came to thewindow, which was open, before which I was. I was so near him I couldhave touched him. He stayed nearly ten minutes, during which time Iobserved him carefully. He is very corpulent, a round face, dark eyes, prominent features; the character of countenance much like the portraitsof the other Louises; a pleasant face, but, above all, such an expressionof the moment as, I shall never forget, and in vain attempt to describe. "His eyes were suffused with tears, his mouth slightly open with anunaffected smile full of gratitude, and seemed to say to every one, 'Bless you. ' His hands were a little extended sometimes as if inadoration to heaven, at others as if blessing the people. I entered intohis feelings. I saw a monarch who, for five-and-twenty years, had been anexile from his country, deprived of his throne, and, until within a fewmonths, not a shadow of a hope remaining of ever returning to it again. Isaw him raised, as if by magic, from a private station in an instant tohis throne, to reign over a nation which has made itself the mostconspicuous of any nation on the globe. I tried to think as he did, and, in the heat of my enthusiasm, I joined with heart and soul in the criesof _'Vive le roi!' 'Vive Louis!'_ which rent the air from the mouths ofthousands. As soon as he left the window, I returned home much fatigued, but well satisfied that my labor had not been for naught. . . . "Mr. Wilberforce is an excellent man; his whole soul is bent on doinggood to his fellow men. Not a moment of his time is lost. He is alwaysplanning some benevolent scheme or other, and not only planning butexecuting; he is made up altogether of affectionate feeling. What I sawof him in private gave me the most exalted opinion of him as a Christian. Oh, that such men as Mr. Wilberforce were more common in this world. Somuch human blood would not then be shed to gratify the malice and revengeof a few wicked, interested men. "I hope Cousin Samuel Breese will distinguish himself under so gallant acommander as Captain Perry. I shall look with anxiety for the sailing ofthe Guerrière. There will be plenty of opportunity for him, for peacewith us is deprecated by the people here, and it only remains for us tofight it out gallantly, as we are able to do, or submit slavishly to anyterms which they please to offer us. A number of _humane_ schemes areunder contemplation, such as burning New London for the sake of thefrigates there; arming the blacks in the Southern States; burning all ofour principal cities, and such like plans, which, from the supineness ofthe New England people, may be easily carried into effect. But no, the_humane, generous_ English cannot do such base things--I hope not; letthe event show it. It is perhaps well I am here, for, with my presentopinions, if I were at home, I should most certainly be in the army ornavy. My mite is small, but, when my country's honor demands it, it mighthelp to sustain it. "There can now be no French party. I wish very much to know what effectthis series of good news will have at home. I congratulate you as well asall other good people on the providential events which have latelyhappened; they must produce great changes with us; I hope it will be forthe best. "I am in excellent health, and am painting away; I am making studies forthe large picture I contemplate for next year. It will be as large, Ithink, as Mr. Allston's famous one, which was ten feet by fourteen. " It can hardly be wondered at that the parents should have been somewhatanxious, when we learn from letters of June, 1814, that they had notheard from their son for _seven months_. They were greatly relieved whenletters did finally arrive, and they rejoiced in his success and in thehope of a universal peace, which should enable their sons "to act theirpart on the stage of life in a calmer period of the world. " His mother keeps urging him to send some of his paintings home, as theywish to judge of his improvement, having, as yet, received nothing butthe small pen-and-ink portrait of himself, which they do not think a verygood likeness. She also emphatically discourages any idea of patronagefrom America, owing to the hard times brought on by the war, and thefather tells his son that he will endeavor to send him one thousanddollars more, which must suffice for the additional year's study and theexpenses of the journey home. It is small wonder that the three sons always manifested the deepestveneration and affection for their parents, for seldom has there beenseen as great devotion and self-sacrifice, and seldom were three sonsmore worthy of it. Sidney was at this time studying law at Litchfield, Connecticut, and Richard was attending the Theological Seminary atAndover, Massachusetts. Both became eminent in after life, though, curiously enough, neither in the law nor in the ministry. But we shallhave occasion to treat more specifically of this later on. The threebrothers were devotedly attached to each other to the very end of theirlong lives, and were mutually helpful as their lives now diverged and nowcame together again. The next letter from Morse to his parents, written on June 15, 1814, gives a further account of the great people who were at that time inLondon:-- "I expected at this time to have been in Bristol with Mr. And Mrs. Allston, who are now there, but the great fêtes in honor of the peace, and the visit of the allied sovereigns, have kept me in London till allis over. There are now in London upward of twenty foreign princes; alsothe great Emperor Alexander and the King of Prussia. A week ago yesterdaythey arrived in town, and, contrary to expectation, came in a veryprivate manner. I went to see their _entrée_, but was disappointed withthe rest of the people, for the Emperor Alexander, disliking all show andparade, came in a private carriage and took an indirect route here. "The next and following day I spent in endeavoring to get a sight ofthem. I have been very fortunate, having seen the Emperor Alexander noless than fourteen times, so that I am quite familiar with his face; theKing of Prussia I have seen once; Marshal Blücher, five or six times;Count Platoff, three or four times; besides Generals de Yorck, Bülow, etc. , all whose names must be perfectly familiar to you, and thedistinguished parts they have all acted in the great scenes just past. "The Emperor Alexander I am quite in love with; he has every mark of agreat mind. His countenance is an uncommonly fine one; he has a faircomplexion, hair rather light, and a stout, well-made figure; he has avery cheerful, benevolent expression, and his conduct has everywhereevinced that his face is the index of his mind. When I first saw him hewas dressed in a green uniform with two epaulets and stars of differentorders; he was conversing at the window of his hotel with his sister, theDuchess of Oldenburg. I saw him again soon after in the superb coach ofthe Prince Regent, with the Duchess, his sister, going to the court ofthe Queen. In a few hours after I saw him again on the balcony of thePultney Hotel; he came forward and bowed to the people. He was thendressed in a red uniform, with a broad blue sash over the right shoulder;he appeared to great advantage; he stayed about five minutes. I saw himagain five or six times through the day, but got only indifferent viewsof him. The following day, however, I was determined to get a better andnearer view of him than before. I went down to his hotel about teno'clock, the time when I supposed he would leave it; I saw one of thePrince's carriages drawn up, which opened at the top and was thrown backbefore and behind. In a few minutes the Emperor with his sister madetheir appearance and got into it. As the carriage started, I pressedforward and got hold of the ring of the coach door and kept pace with itfor about a quarter of a mile. I was so near that I could have touchedhim; he was in a plain dress, a brown coat, and altogether like any othergentleman. His sister, the Duchess, also was dressed in a very plain, unattractive manner, and, if it had not been for the crowd whichfollowed, they would have been taken for any lady and gentleman taking anairing. "In this unostentatious manner does he conduct himself, despising allpomp, and seems rather more intent upon inspecting the charitable, useful, and ornamental establishments of this country, with a view, probably, of benefiting his own dominions by his observations, than ofdisplaying his rank by the splendor of dress and equipage. "His condescension also is no less remarkable. An instance or two willexemplify it. On the morning after his arrival he was up at six o'clock, and, while the lazy inhabitants of this great city were fast asleep intheir beds, he was walking with his sister, the Duchess, in KensingtonGardens. As he came across Hyde Park he observed a corporal drilling somerecruits, upon which he went up to him and entered into familiarconversation with him, asking him a variety of questions, and, when hehad seen the end of the exercise, shook him heartily by the hand and lefthim. When he was riding on horseback, he shook hands with all who cameround him. "A few days ago, as he was coming out of the gate of the London Docks onfoot, after having inspected them, a great crowd was waiting to see him, among whom was an old woman of about seventy years of age, who seemedvery anxious to get near him, but, the crowd pressing very much, sheexclaimed, 'Oh, if I could but touch his clothes!' The Emperor overheardher, and, turning round, advanced to her, and, pulling off his glove, gave her his hand, and, at the same time dropping a guinea into hers, said to her, 'Perhaps this will do as well. ' The old woman was quiteovercome, and cried, 'God bless Your Majesty, ' till he was out of sight. "An old woman in her ninetieth year sent a pair of warm woolen stockingsto the Emperor, and with them a letter stating that she had knit themwith her own hands expressly for him, and, as she could not afford tosend him silk, she thought that woolen would be much more acceptable, andwould also be more useful in his climate. The Emperor was very muchpleased, and determined on giving her his miniature set in gold anddiamonds, but, upon learning that her situation in life was such thatmoney would be more acceptable, he wrote her an answer, and, thanking herheartily for her present, enclosed her one hundred pounds. "These anecdotes speak more than volumes in praise of the EmperorAlexander. He is truly a great man. He is a great conqueror, for he hassubdued the greatest country in the world, and overthrown the mostalarming despotism that ever threatened mankind. He is great also becausehe is good; his whole time seems spent in distributing good to all aroundhim; and where-ever he goes he makes every heart rejoice. He is veryactive and is all the time on the alert in viewing everything that isworth seeing. The Emperor is also extremely partial to the United States;everything American pleases him, and he seems uncommonly interested inthe welfare of our country. "I was introduced to-day to Mr. Harris, our _chargé d'affaires_ to thecourt of Russia. He is a very intelligent, fine man, and is a greatfavorite with Alexander. From a conversation with him I have a scheme inview which, when I have matured, I will submit to you for yourapprobation. "The King of Prussia I have seen but once, and then had but an imperfectview of him. He came to the window with the Prince Regent and bowed tothe people (at St. James's Palace). He is tall and thin, has an agreeablecountenance, but rather dejected in consequence of the late loss of hisqueen, to whom he was very much attached. "General Blücher, now Prince Blücher, I have seen five or six times. Isaw him on his entrance into London, all covered with dust, and in a veryordinary kind of vehicle. On the day after I saw him several times in hiscarriage, drawn about wherever he wished by the _mob_. He is John'sgreatest favorite, and they have almost pulled the brave general and hiscompanion, Count Platoff, to pieces out of pure affection. Platoff hadhis coat actually torn off him and divided into a thousand pieces as_relics_ by the good people--their kindness knows no bounds, and, Ithink, in all the battles which they have fought, they never have run somuch risk of losing their limbs as in encountering their friends inEngland. "Blücher is a veteran-looking soldier, a very fine head, monstrousmustaches. His head is bald, like papa's, his hair gray, and he wearspowder. Understanding that he was to be at Covent Garden Theatre, I went, as the best place to see him, and I was not disappointed. He was in thePrince's box, and I had a good view of him during the wholeentertainment, being directly before him for three or four hours. A fewnights since I also went to the theatre to see Platoff, the _hetman_(chief) of the Cossacks. He has also a very fine countenance, a high andbroad forehead, dark complexion, and dark hair. He is tall and well-made, as I think the Cossacks are generally. He was very much applauded by acrowded house, the most part collected to see him. " The following letter is from Washington Allston written in Bristol, onJuly 5, 1814:-- MY DEAR SIR, --I received your last on Saturday and should have answeredyour first letter but for two reasons. First, that I had nothing to say; which, I think, metaphysicians allow tobe the most natural as well as the most powerful cause of silence. Second, that, if I had had anything to say, the daily expectation which Ientertained of seeing you allowed no confidence in the hope that youwould hear what I had to say should I have said it. I thank you for your solicitude, and can assure you that both Mrs. Allston and myself are in every respect better than when we left London. Mr. King received me, as I wished, with undiminished kindness, and wasgreatly pleased with the pictures. He has not, however, seen the largeone, which, to my agreeable surprise, I have been solicited from variousquarters to exhibit, and that, too, without my having given the leastintimation of such a design. I have taken Merchant Tailors' Hall (a verylarge room) for this purpose, and shall probably open it in the course ofnext week. Perhaps you will be surprised to hear that I have been retouching it. Ihave just concluded a fortnight's hard work upon it, and have thesatisfaction to add that I have been seldom better satisfied than with mypresent labor. I have repainted the greater part of the draperies--indeed, those of all the principal figures, excepting the Dead Man--withpowerful and positive colors, and added double strength to the shadows ofevery figure, so that for force and distinctness you would hardly know itfor the same picture. The "Morning Chronicle" would have no reason now tocomplain of its "wan red. ". . . I am sorry that Parliament has been so impolite to you in procrastinatingthe fireworks. But they are an unpolished set and will still be in thedark age of incivility notwithstanding their late illuminations. HoweverI am in great hopes that the good people of England will derive no smalldegree of moral embellishment from their pure admiration of theillustrious General B----, who, it is said, for drinking and gaming hasno equal. BRISTOL, September 9, 1814. MY DEAR PARENTS, --Your kind letters of June last I have received, andreturn you a thousand thanks for them. They have relieved me from apainful state of anxiety with respect to my future prospects. I cannotfeel too thankful for such kind parents who have universally shown somuch indulgence to me. Accept my gratitude and love; they are all I cangive. You allow me to stay in Europe another year. Your letters are not inanswer to some I have subsequently sent requesting leave to reside inParis. Mr. Allston, as well as all my friends, think it by all meansnecessary I should lose no time in getting to France to improve myselffor a year in drawing (a branch of art in which I am very deficient). I shall therefore set out for Paris in about two weeks, unless yourletters in answer to those sent by Drs. Heyward and Gushing should arriveand say otherwise. Since coming to Bristol I have not found my prospectsso good as I before had reason to expect (owing in a great degree topolitical irritation). I have, however, contrived to make sufficient topay off _all_ my _debts_, which have given me some considerableuneasiness. I can live much more reasonably in Paris (indeed, some say for half whatI can in London); I can improve myself more; and, therefore, all thingstaken into consideration, I believe it would be agreeable to my parents. As to the political state of Paris, there is nothing to fear from that. It appears perfectly tranquil, and should at any time any difficultiesarise, it is but three days' journey back to England again. Besides this, I hope my parents will not feel any solicitude for me lest I should fallinto any bad way, when they consider that I am now between twenty-threeand twenty-four years of age, and that this is an age when the habits aregenerally fixed. As for expense, I must also request your confidence. Feeling as I do thegreat obligations I am under to my parents, they must think me destituteof gratitude if they thought me capable, after all that has been said tome, of being prodigal. The past I trust you will find to be an examplefor the future. In a letter from a friend, M. Van Schaick, written from Dartmouth, October 13, 1814, after speaking in detail of the fortifications of NewYork Harbor, which he considers "impregnable, " we find the followinginteresting information:-- "But what satisfies my mind more than anything else is that all theheights of Brooklyn on Long Island are occupied by strong chains offorts; the Captain calls it an iron-work; and that the steamboat frigate, carrying forty-four 32-pounders, must by this time be finished. Her sidesare eight feet thick of solid timber. No ball can penetrate her. . . . Thesteamboat frigate is 160 feet long, 40 wide, carries her wheels in thecentre like the ferry-boats, and will move six miles an hour against acommon wind and tide. She is the wonder and admiration of all beholders. " From this same gentleman is the following letter, dated October 21, 1814:-- MY DEAR FRIEND, --My heart is so full that I do not know how to utter itsemotions. Thanks, all thanks to Heaven and our glorious heroes! Mysatisfaction is full; it is perfect. It partakes of the character of thevictory and wants nothing to make it complete. I return your felicitations upon this happy and heart-cheering occasion, and hope it may serve to suppress every sigh and to enliven every hopethat animates the bosoms of my friends at Bristol. Give Mr. Allston ahearty squeeze of the hand for me in token of my gratification at thisevent and my remembrance of him. I enter into your feelings; I enjoy your triumph as much as if I was withyou. May it do you good and lengthen your lives. Really I think it ismuch more worth my regard to live now than ever it was before. This givesa tone to one's nerves, a zest to one's appetite, and a reality toexistence that pervades all nature and exhibits its effects in every wordand action. Among the heroes whose names shall be inscribed upon the broad base ofAmerican Independence and Glory, the names of the heroes of Lake Erie andLake Champlain will be recognized as brilliant and every way worthy; andit will hereafter be said that the example and exertions of New York havesaved the nation. . . . What becomes of Massachusetts now and its sagepoliticians? Oh! shut the picture; I cannot bear the contrast. Like adead carcass she hangs upon the living spirit which animates the heart, and she impedes its motions. Her consequence is gone, and I am sorry forit, because I have been accustomed to admire the noble spirit she oncedisplayed, and the virtues which adorned her brighter days. . . . We sail on Sunday or Monday. I have received the box. Everything isright. Heaven bless you. Going back a few days in point of time, the following letter was writtento his parents:-- BRISTOL, October 11, 1814. Your letters to the 31st of August have been received, and I have againto express to you my thanks for the sacrifices you are making for me. Oneday I hope it will be in my power to repay you for the many acts ofindulgence to me. . . . Your last letters mention nothing about my going to France. I perceiveyou have got my letters requesting leave, but you are altogether silenton the subject. Everything is in favor of my going, my improvement, myexpenses, and, last though not least, _the state of my feelings_. I shallbe ruined in my feelings if I stay longer in England. I cannot endure thecontinued and daily insults to my feelings as an American. But on thishead I promised not to write anything more; still allow me to say but afew words--On second thoughts, however, I will refer you entirely to Dr. Romeyn. If it is possible, as you value my comfort, see him as speedilyas possible. He will give you my sentiments exactly, and I fully trustthat, after you have heard him converse for a short time, you willcompletely liberate me from the imputation of error. . . . Mr. Bromfield [the merchant through whom he received his allowance]thinks I had better wait until I receive positive leave from you to go toFrance. Do write me soon and do give me leave. I long to bury myself inthe Louvre in a country at least not hostile to mine, and where guns arenot firing and bells ringing for victory over my countrymen. . . . Where isAmerican patriotism, --how long shall England, already too proud, glory inthe blood of my countrymen? Oh! for the genius of Washington! Had I buthis talents with what alacrity would I return to the relief of thatcountry which (without affectation, my dear parents) is dearer to me thanmy life. Willingly (I speak with truth and deliberation), willingly wouldI sacrifice my life for her honor. Do not think ill of me for speaking thus strongly. You cannot judgeimpartially of my feelings until you are placed in my situation. Do notsay I suffer myself to be carried away by my feelings; your feelingscould never have been tried as mine have; you cannot see with the eyes Ido; you cannot have the means of ascertaining facts on this side of thewater that I have. But I will leave this subject and only say see _Dr. Romeyn_. . . . I find no encouragement whatever in Bristol in the way of my art. National feeling is mingled with everything here; it is sufficient that Iam an American, a title I would not change with the greatest king inEurope. I find it more reasonable, living in Bristol, or I should go to Londonimmediately. Mr. And Mrs. Allston are well and send you their respects. They set out for London in a few days after some months' _unsuccessful_(between ourselves) residence here. All public feeling is absorbed in oneobject, the _conquest of the United States;_ no time to encourage anartist, especially an American artist. I am well, extremely well, but not in good spirits, as you may imaginefrom this letter. I am painting a little landscape and am studying in mymind a great historical picture, to be painted, by your leave, in Paris. CHAPTER VIII NOVEMBER 9, 1814--APRIL 23. 1815 Does not go to Paris. --Letter of admonition from his mother. --Hisparents' early economies. --Letter from Leslie. --Letter from Rev. S. F. Jarvis on politics. --The mother tells of the economies of another youngAmerican, Dr. Parkman. --The son resents constant exhortations toeconomize, and tells of meanness of Dr. Parkman. --Writes of his owneconomies and industry. --Disgusted with Bristol. --Prophesies peacebetween England and America. --Estimates of Morse's character by Dr. Romeyn and Mr. Van Schaick. --The father regrets reproof of son forpolitical views. --Death of Mrs. Allston. --Disagreeable experience inBristol. --More economies. --Napoleon I. --Peace. Morse did not go to Paris at this time. The permission from his parentswas so long delayed, owing to their not having received certain lettersof his, and his mentor, Mr. Bromfield, advising against it, he gave upthe plan, with what philosophy he could bring to bear on the situation. His mother continued to give him careful advice, covering many pages, inevery letter. On November 9, 1814, she says:-- "We wish to know what the plan was that you said you were maturing inregard to the Emperor of Russia. You must not be a schemer, but determineon a steady, uniform course. It is an old adage that 'a rolling stonenever gathers any moss'; so a person that is driving about from pillar topost very seldom lays up anything against a rainy day. You must be wise, my son, and endeavor to get into such steady business as will, with thedivine blessing, give you a support. Secure that first, and then you willbe authorized to indulge your taste and exercise your genius in otherways that may not be immediately connected with a living. "You mention patronage from this country, but such a thing is not knownhere unless you were on the spot, and not then, indeed, but for valuereceived. You must therefore make up your mind to labor for yourselfwithout leaning on any one, and look up to God for his blessing upon yourendeavors. This is the way your parents set out in life about twenty-fiveyears ago. They had nothing to look to for a support but their salary, which was a house, twenty cords of wood, and $570 a year. The receptionand circulation of the Geography was an experiment not then made. Withthe blessing of Heaven on these resources we have maintained an expensivefamily, kept open doors for almost all who chose to come and partake ofour hospitality. Enemies, as well as friends, have been welcomed. We havegiven you and your brothers a liberal education, have allowed you $4000, are allowing your brothers about $300 a year apiece, and are supportingour remaining family at the rate of $2000 a year. This is a prettycorrect statement, and I make it to show you what can be done by industryand economy, with the blessing of Heaven. " While Morse was in Bristol, his friend C. R. Leslie thus writes to him inlead pencil from London, on November 29, 1814:-- MOST POTENT, GRAVE AND REVEREND DOCTOR, --I take up my pencil to make tenthousand apologies for addressing you in humble black lead. Deeplyimpressed as I am with the full conviction that you deserve the very bestJapan ink, the only excuse I can make to you is the following. It is, perhaps, needless to remind you that the tools with which ink is appliedto paper, in order to produce writing, are made from goose quills, whichquills I am goose enough not to keep a supply of; and not having so muchmoney at present in my breeches pocket as will purchase one, I am forcedto betake myself to my pencil; an instrument which, without paying myselfany compliment, I am sure I can wield better than a pen. I am glad to hear that you are so industrious, and that Mr. Allston issucceeding so well with portraits. I hope he will bring all he haspainted to London. I am looking out for you every day. I think we form akind of family here, and I feel in an absence from Mr. And Mrs. Allstonand yourself as I used to do when away from my mother and sisters. By the bye, I have not had any letters from home for more than a month. It seems the Americans are all united and we shall now have war inearnest. I am glad of it for many reasons; I think it will not only getus a more speedy and permanent peace, but may tend to crush the demon ofparty spirit and strengthen our government. I am done painting the gallery, and have finished my drawings for thefrieze. Thank you for your good wishes. I thought Mr. Allston knew how proud I am of being considered hisstudent. Tell him, if he thinks it worth while to mention me at all inhis letter to Delaplaine, I shall consider it a great honor to be calledhis student. The father, in a letter of December 6, 1814, after again urging him toleave politics alone, adds this postscript: "P. S. If you can make up your mind to remain in London and finish yourgreat picture for the exhibition; to suppress your political feelings, and resolutely turn a deaf ear to everything which does not concern yourprofessional studies; not to talk on politics and preserve a conciliatingcourse of conduct and conversation; make as many friends as you can, andbehave as a good man ought to in your situation, and put off going toFrance till after your exhibition, --this plan would suit us best. Butwith the observations and advice now before you, we leave you to judgefor yourself. Let us early know your determination and intended plans. You must rely on your own resources after this year. " The following letter is from his warm friend, the Reverend Samuel F. Jarvis, written in New York, December 14, 1814:-- "I am not surprised at the feelings you express with regard to England orAmerica. The English in general have so contemptuous an opinion of us andone so exalted of themselves, that every American must feel a virtuousindignation when he hears his country traduced and belied. But, my dearsir, it is natural, on the other hand, for an exile from his native landto turn with fond remembrance to its excellences and forget its defects. You will be able some years hence to speak with more impartiality on thissubject than you do at present. "The men who have involved the country in this war are wicked andcorrupt. A systematic exclusion of all Federalists from any office oftrust is the leading feature of this Administration, yet the Federalistscomprehend the majority of the wealth, virtue, and intelligence of thecommunity. It is the power of the ignorant multitude by which they aresupported, and I conceive that America will never be a respectable nationin the eyes of the world, till the extreme democracy of our Constitutionis done away with, and there is a representation of the property ratherthan of the population of the country. You feel nothing of theoppressive, despotic sway of the _soi-disant_ Republicans, but we feel itin all its bitterness, and know that it is far worse than that of themost despotic sovereigns in Europe. With such men there can be no union. "The repulsion of British invasion is the duty, and will be the pride, ofevery American; but, while prepared to bare his arm in defence of hismuch-wronged country against a proud and arrogant, and, in someinstances, a cruel, foe, he cannot be blind to the unprincipled conductof her internal enemies, and such he must conceive the present rulingparty to be. " On December 19, 1814, his mother writes:-- "I was not a little astonished to hear you say, in one of your lettersfrom Bristol, that you had earned money enough there to pay off yourdebts. I cannot help asking what debts you could have to discharge withyour own earnings after receiving one thousand dollars a year from us, which we are very sure must have afforded you, even by your own accountof your expenses, ample means for the payment of all just, fair, andhonorable debts, and I hope you contract no others. We are informed byothers that they made six hundred dollars a year not only pay all theirexpenses of clothing, board, travelling, learning the French language, etc. , etc. , but they were able out of it to purchase books to send home, and actually sent a large trunk full of elegant books. Now the person whotold us that he did this has a father who is said to be worth a hundredand fifty thousand dollars; therefore the young man was not pinched formeans, but was thus economical out of consideration to his parents, andto show his gratitude to them, as I suppose. Now think, my dear son, howmuch more your poor parents are doing for you, how good your dearbrothers are to be satisfied with so little done for them in comparisonwith what we are doing for you, and let the thought stimulate you to moreeconomy and industry. I greatly fear you have been falling off in boththese since the éclat you received for your first performances. It hasalways been a failing of yours, as soon as you found you could excel inwhat you undertook, to be tired of it and not trouble yourself anyfurther about it. I was in hopes that you had got over this ficklenessere this. . . "You must not expect to paint anything in this country, for which youwill receive any money to support you, but portraits; therefore doeverything in your power to qualify you for painting and taking them inthe best style. That is all your hope here, and to be very obliging andcondescending to those who are disposed to employ you. . . . "I think young Leslie is a very estimable young man to be, as I am toldhe is, supporting himself and assisting his widowed mother by hisindustry. " I shall anticipate a little in order to give at once the son's answer tothis reproof. He writes on April 28, 1815:-- "I wish I could persuade my parents that they might place some littleconfidence in my judgment at the age I now am (nearly twenty-four), anage when, in ordinary people, the judgment has reached a certain degreeof maturity. It is a singular and, I think, an unfortunate fact that Ihave not, that I recollect, since I have been in England, had a turn oflow spirits except when I have received letters from home. It is true Ifind a great deal of affectionate solicitude in them, but with it I alsofind so much complaint and distrust, so much fear that I am doing wrong, so much doubt as to my morals and principles, and fear lest I should beled away by bad company and the like, that, after I have read them, I ammiserable for a week. I feel as though I had been guilty of every crime, and I have passed many sleepless nights after receiving letters from you. I shall not sleep to-night in consequence of passages in your lettersjust received. " Here he quotes from his mother's letter and answers: "Now as to the young man's living for six hundred dollars, I know who itis of whom you speak. It is Dr. Parkman, who made it his boast that hewould live for that sum, but you did not enquire _how_ he lived. I cantell you. He never refused an invitation to dine, breakfast, or tea, which he used to obtain often by pushing himself into everybody'scompany. When he did not succeed in getting invitations, he invitedhimself to breakfast, dine, or sup with some of his friends. He has oftenwalked up to breakfast with us, a distance of three or four miles. If hefailed in getting a dinner or meal at any of these places, he either usedto go without, or a bit of bread answered the purpose till next meal. Inhis dress he was so shabby and uncouth that any decent person would beashamed to walk with him in the street. Above all, his notorious meannessin his money matters, his stickling with his poor washerwoman for ahalfpenny and with others for a farthing, and his uniform stinginess onall occasions rendered him notoriously disgusting to all hisacquaintances, and affords, I should imagine, but a poor example forimitation. . . . "The fact is I could live for _fifty_ pounds a year if my only object wasto live cheap, and, on the other hand, if I was allowed one thousandpounds a year, I could spend it all without the least extravagance inobtaining greater advantages in my art. But as your goodness has allowedme but two hundred pounds (and I wish you again to receive my sincerethanks for this allowance), should not my sole endeavor be to spend allthis to the utmost advantage; to keep as closely within the bounds ofthat allowance as possible, and would not _economy_ in this instanceconsist in rigidly keeping up to this rule? If this is a true statementof the case, then have I been perfectly economical, for I have not yetoverrun my allowance, and I think I shall be able to return home withouthaving exceeded it a single shilling. If I have done this, and stillcontinue to do it, why, in every letter I receive from home, is theinjunction repeated of _being economical?_ It makes me exceedinglyunhappy, especially when I am conscious of having used my utmostendeavors, ever since I have been in England, to be rigidly so. "As to _industry_, in which mama fears I am falling off, I gave you anaccount in my last letter (by Mr. Ralston) of the method I use inparcelling out my time. Since writing that letter the spring and summerare approaching fast, and the days increasing. Of course I can employmore of the time than in the winter. Mr. Leslie and myself rise at fiveo'clock in the morning and walk about a mile and a half to Burlington, where are the famous Elgin Marbles, the works of Phidias and Praxiteles, brought by Lord Elgin from Athens. From these we draw three hours everymorning, wet or dry, before breakfast, and return home just as the bustlebegins in London, for they are late risers in London. When we go out of amorning we meet no one but the watchman, who goes his rounds for an hourand a half after we are up. Last summer Mr. Leslie and I used to paint inthe open air in the fields three hours before breakfast, and often beforesunrise, to study the morning effect on the landscape. "Now, being conscious of employing my time in the most industrious mannerpossible, you can but faintly conceive the mortification and sorrow withwhich I read that part of mama's letter. I was so much hurt that I readit to Mr. Allston, and requested he would write to you and give you anaccount of my spending my time. He seemed very much astonished when Iread it to him, and _authorized me to tell you from him that it wasimpossible for any one to be more indefatigable in his studies than Iam_. "Mama mentions in her letter that she hears that Mr. Leslie supports hismother and sisters by his labors. This is not the case. Leslie wassupported by three or four individuals in Philadelphia till within a fewmonths past. About a year ago he sold a large picture which he painted(whilst I was on my fruitless trip to Bristol for money) for a hundredguineas. Since that he has had a number of commissions in portraits andis barely able to support himself; indeed, he tells me this evening thathe has but £20 left. He is a very economical and a most excellent youngman. His expenses in a year are, on an average, from £230 to £250; Mr. Allston's (single) expenses not less than £300 per annum, and I know ofno artist among all my acquaintance whose expenses in a year are lessthan £200. " Returning now to the former chronological order, I shall include thefollowing vehement letter written from London on December 22, 1814:-- MY DEAR PARENTS, --I arrived yesterday from Bristol, where I have been forseveral months past endeavoring to make a little in the way of myprofession, but have completely failed, owing to several causes. First, the total want of anything like partiality for the fine arts inthat place; the people there are but a remove from brutes. A "Bristolhog" is as proverbial in this country as a "Charlestown gentleman" is inBoston. Their whole minds are absorbed in trade; barter and gain andinterest are all they understand. If I could have painted a picture forhalf a guinea by which they could have made twenty whilst I starved, _Icould have starved_. Secondly, the virulence of national prejudice which rages now withtenfold acrimony. They no longer despise, they hate, the Americans. Thebattle on Champlain and before Flattsburgh has decided the business; themoans and bewailings for this business are really, to an American, quitecomforting after their arrogant boasting of reducing us to unconditionalsubmission. Is it strange that I should feel a little the effects of this universalhatred? I have felt it, and I have left Bristol after six months' perfectneglect. After having been invited there with promises of success, I havehad the mortification to leave it without having, from Bristol, a singlecommission. More than that, and by far the worst, if I have not gone backin my art these six months, I have at least stood still, and to me thisis the most trying reflection of all. I have been immured in theparalyzing atmosphere of trade till my mind was near partaking theinfection. I have been listening to the grovelling, avaricious devoteesof mammon, whose souls are narrowed to the studious contemplation of ahard-earned shilling, whose leaden imaginations never soared above theprospect of a good bargain, and whose _summum bonum_ is the inspiringidea of counting a hundred thousand: I say I have been listening to thesemiserly beings till the idea did not seem so repugnant of lowering mynoble art to a trade, of painting for money, of degrading myself and thesoul-enlarging art which I possess, to the narrow idea of merely gettingmoney. Fie on myself! I am ashamed of myself; no, never will I degrade myself bymaking a trade of a profession. If I cannot live a gentleman, I willstarve a gentleman. But I will dismiss this unpleasant subject, theparticulars of which I can better relate to you than write. Suffice it tosay that my ill-treatment does not prey upon my spirits; I am inexcellent health and spirits and have great reason to be thankful toHeaven for thousands of blessings which one or two reverses shall notmake me forget. Reverses do I call them? How trifling are my troubles tothe millions of my fellow creatures who are afflicted with all thedreadful calamities incident to this life. Reverses do I call them? No, they are blessings compared with the miseries of thousands. Indeed, I am too ungrateful. If a thing does not result just as I wish, Ibegin to repine; I forget the load of blessings which I enjoy: life, health, parents whose kindness exceeds the kindest; brothers, relatives, and friends; advantages which no one else enjoys for the pursuit of afavorite art, besides numerous others; all which are forgotten the momentan unpleasant disappointment occurs. I am very ungrateful. With respect to peace, I can only say I should not be surprised if thepreliminaries were signed before January. My reasons are that GreatBritain cannot carry on the war any longer. She may talk of herinexhaustible resources, but she well knows that the great resource, theproperty tax, must fail next April. The people will not submit anylonger; they are taking strong measures to prevent its continuance, andwithout it they cannot continue the war. Another great reason why I think there will be peace is the absolute_fear_ which they express of us. They fear the increase of our navy; theyfear the increase of the army; they fear for Canada, and they are indread of the further disgrace of their national character. Mr. Monroe'splan for raising 100, 000 men went like a shock through the country. Theysaw the United States assume an attitude which they did not expect, andthe same men who cried for "war, war, " "thrash the Americans, " now crymost lustily for peace. The union of the parties also has convinced them that we are determinedto resist their most arrogant pretensions. Love to all, brothers, Miss Russell, etc. Yours very affectionately, SAML. F. B. MORSE. He ends the letter thus abruptly, probably realizing that he wasbeginning to tread on forbidden ground, but being unable to resist thetemptation. While from this letter and others we can form a just estimate of thecharacter and temperament of the man, it is also well to learn theopinion of his contemporaries; I shall, therefore, quote from a letter tothe elder Morse of the Dr. Romeyn, whom the son was so anxious to havehis father see, also from a letter of Mr. Van Schaick to Dr. Romeyn. The former was written in New York, on December 27, 1814. "The enclosed letter of my friend Mr. Van Schaick will give you theinformation concerning your son which you desire. He has been intimatelyacquainted with your son for a considerable time. You may rely on hisaccount, as he is not only a gentleman of unquestionable integrity, butalso a professor of the Lord Christ. What I saw and heard of your sonpleased me, and I cannot but hope he will repay all your anxieties andrealize your reasonable expectations by his conduct and the standingwhich he must and will acquire in society by that conduct. " Mr. Van Schaick's letter was written also in New York, on December 14, 1814:-- "To those passages of Dr. Morse's letter respecting his son, to which youhave directed my attention, I hasten to reply without any form, becauseit will gratify me to relieve the anxiety of the parents of my friend. His religious and moral character is unexceptionally good. He feelsstrongly for his country and expresses those feelings among his Americanfriends with great sensibility. I do not know that he ever indulges inany observations in the company of Englishmen which are calculated toinjure his standing among them. But, my dear sir, you fully know that anAmerican cannot escape the sting of illiberal and false charges againsthis country and even its moral character, unless he almost entirelywithholds himself from society. It cannot be expected that any humanbeing should be so unfeeling as to suffer indignity in total silence. "But I do not think that any political collisions, which may incidentallyand very infrequently arise, can injure him as an artist; for it is wellknown to you that the simple fact of his being an American is sufficientto prevent his rising rapidly into notice, since the possession of thatcharacter clogs the efforts, or, at least, somewhat clouds the fame ofmen of superior genius and established talent. . . . I advised Samuel to goto France and bury himself for six months in the Louvre; from thence toItaly, the seat of the arts. He inclined to the first part of the plan, and then to return home, but deferred putting it into execution till heheard from his father. Mr. Allston intended to winter in London. Morsehas a fine taste and colors well. His drawing is capable of muchimprovement, but he is anxious to place himself at the head of hisprofession, and, with a little judicious encouragement, will probablysucceed. That patient industry which has in all ages characterized themasters of the art, he will find it to his interest to apply to hisstudies the farther he advances in them. His success has been moderatelygood. If he could sell the pictures he has on hand, the avails wouldprobably pay his way into France. " Referring to these letters the father, writing on January 25, 1815, says:-- "We have had letters from Dr. Romeyn and Mr. Van Schaick concerning youwhich have comforted us much. Since receiving them we don't know but wehave expressed ourselves, in our letters in answer to your last, a littlestronger than we ought in regard to your _political_ feelings andconduct. I find others who have returned feel pretty much as you do. Butit should be remembered that your situation as an artist is differentfrom theirs. It is your wisdom to leave politics to politicians and besolely the artist. But if you are in France these cautions will probablynot be necessary, as you will have no temptation to enter into anypolitical discussions. " On the 3d of February, 1815, Morse, in writing to his parents, has a verysad piece of news to communicate to them:-- "I write in great haste and much agitation. Mrs. Allston, the wife of ourbeloved friend, died last evening, and the event overwhelmed us all inthe utmost sorrow. As for Mr. Allston, for several hours after the deathof his wife he was almost bereft of reason. Mr. Leslie and I are applyingour whole attention to him, and we have so far succeeded as to see himmore composed. " This was a terrible grief to all the little coterie of friends, for whomthe Allston house had been a home. One of them, Mr. J. J. Morgan, in along letter to Morse written from Wiltshire, thus expresses himself:-- "Gracious God! unsearchable, indeed, are thy ways! The insensible, thebrutish, the wicked are powerful and everywhere, in everythingsuccessful; while Allston, who is everything that is amiable, kind, andgood, has been bruised, blow after blow, and now, indeed, his cup isfull. I am too unwell, too little recovered from the effect of yourletter, to write much. Coleridge intends writing to-day; I hope he will. Allston may derive some little relief from knowing how much his friendspartake of his grief. " This was a time of great discouragement to the young artist. Through thefailure of some of his letters to reach his parents in time, he had notreceived their permission to go to France until it was too late for himto go. The death of Mrs. Allston cast a gloom over all the little circle, and, to cap the climax, he was receiving no encouragement in hisprofession. On March 10, 1815, he writes:-- "My jaunt to Bristol in quest of money completely failed. When I wasfirst there I expected, from the little connection I got into, I shouldbe able to support myself. I was obliged to come to town on account ofthe exhibitions, and stayed longer than I expected, intending to returnto Bristol. During this time I received two pressing letters from. Mr. Visscher (which I will show you), inviting me to come down, saying that Ishould have plenty of business. I accordingly hurried off. A gentleman, for whom I had before painted two portraits, had promised, if I would lethim have them for ten guineas apiece, twelve being my price, that hewould procure me five sitters. This I acceded to. I received twentyguineas and have heard nothing from the man since, though I particularlyrequested Mr. Visscher to enquire and remind him of his promise. Yet henever did anything more on the subject. I was there three months, gainingnothing in my art and without a single commission. Mr. Breed, ofLiverpool, then came to Bristol. He took two landscapes which I had beenamusing myself with (for I can say nothing more of them) at ten guineaseach. I painted two more landscapes which are unsold. "Mr. Visscher, a man worth about a hundred thousand pounds, and whoseannual expenses, with a large family of seven children, are not onethousand, had a little frame for which he repeatedly desired me to painta picture. I told him I would as soon as I had finished one of mylandscapes. I began it immediately, without his knowing it, anddetermined to surprise him with it. I also had two frames which fittedMr. Breed's pictures, and which I was going to give to Mr. Breed with hispictures. But Mr. Visscher was particularly pleased with the frames, asthey were a pair, and told me not to send them to Mr. Breed as he shouldlike to have them himself, and wished I would paint him pictures to fitthem (the two other landscapes before mentioned). I accordingly wasemployed three months longer in painting these three pictures. I finishedthem; he was very much pleased with them; all his family were very muchpleased with them; all who saw them were pleased with them. But he_declined taking them_ without even asking my price, and said that he hadmore pictures than he knew what to do with. "Mr. And Mrs. Allston heard him say twenty times he wished I would painthim a picture for the frame. Mr. Allston, who knew what I was about, toldhim, no doubt, I would do it for him, and in a week after I had completedit. I had told Mr. Visscher also that I was considerably in debt, andthat, when he had paid me for these pictures, I should be something inpocket; and, by his not objecting to what I said, I took it for granted(and from his requesting me to paint the picture) that the thing wascertain. But thus it was, without giving any reason in the world, exceptthat he had pictures enough, he declined taking them, making me spendthree months longer in Bristol than I otherwise should have done;standing still in my art, if not actually going back; and forcing me torun in debt for some necessary expenses of clothing in Bristol, and mypassage from and back to London. During all this time not a singlecommission for a portrait, _many_ of which were promised me, nor a singlecall from any one to look at my pictures. Thus ended my jaunt in quest ofmoney. "Do not think that this disappointment is in consequence of anymisconduct of mine. Mr. Allston, who was with me, experienced the sametreatment, and had it not been for his uncle, the American Consul, hemight have starved for the Bristol people. His uncle was the only one whopurchased any of his pictures. Since I have been in London I have beenendeavoring to regain what I lost in Bristol, and I hope I have so farsucceeded as to say: '_I have not gone back in my art_. ' "In order to retrench my expenses I have taken a painting-room out of thehouse, at about half of the expense of my former room. Thoughinconvenient in many respects, yet my circumstances require it and Iwillingly put up with it. As for _economy_, do not be at any more painsin introducing that personage to me. We have long been friends andnecessary companions. If you could look in on me and see me through a dayI think you would not tell me in every letter to _economize more_. It isimpossible; I cannot economize more. I live on as plain food and aslittle as is for my health; less and plainer would make me ill, for Ihave given it a fair experiment. As for clothes, I have been decent andthat is all. If I visited a great deal this would be a heavy expense, but, the less I go out, the less need I care for clothes, except forcleanliness. My only heavy expenses are colors, canvas, frames, etc. , andthese are heavy. " A number of pages of this letter are missing, much to my regret. He musthave been telling of some of the great events which were happening on theContinent, probably of the Return from Elba, for it begins againabruptly. "--when he might have avoided it by quietness; by undertaking so bold anattempt as he has done without being completely sure of success, andhaving laid his plans deeply; and, thirdly, I knew the feelings of theFrench people were decidedly in his favor, more especially the military. They feel as though Louis XVIII was forced upon them by their conquerors;they feel themselves a conquered nation, and they look to Bonaparte asthe only man who can retrieve their character for them. "All these reasons rushing into my mind at the time, I gave it as myopinion that Napoleon would again be Emperor of the French, and again setthe world by the ears, unless he may have learned a lesson from hisadversity. But this cannot be expected. I fear we are apt yet to see adarker and more dreadful storm than any we have yet seen. This is, indeed, an age of wonders. "Let what will happen in Europe, let us have peace at home, amongourselves more particularly. But the character we have acquired among thenations of Europe in our late contest with England, has placed us on suchhigh ground that none of them, England least of all, will wish to embroilthemselves with us. " This was written just after peace had been established between Englandand America, and in a letter from his mother, written about the same timein March, 1815, she thus comments on the joyful news: "We have now theheartfelt pleasure of congratulating you on the return of peace betweenour country and Great Britain. May it never again be interrupted, but mayboth countries study the things that make for peace, and love asbrethren. " It never has been interrupted up to the present day, for, as I ampursuing my pleasant task of bringing these letters together forpublication, in the year of our Lord 1911, the newspapers are agitatingthe question of a fitting commemoration of a hundred years of peacebetween Great Britain and the United States. Further on in this same letter the mother makes this request of her son:"When you return we wish you to bring some excellent black or corbeaucloth to make your good father and brothers each a suit of clothes. Yourpapa also wishes you to get made a handsome black cloth cloak for him;one that will fit you he thinks will fit him. Be sure and attend to this. Your mama would like some grave colored silk for a gown, if it can be hadbut for little. Don't forget that your mother is no dwarf, and that alarge pattern suits her better than a small one. " The letter of April 28, from which I have already quoted, has thissentence at the beginning: "Your letters suppose me in Paris, _but I amnot there_; you hope that I went in October last; I intended going andwished it at that time exceedingly, but I had not leave from you to goand Mr. Bromfield advised me by no means to go until I heard from you. You must perceive from this case how impossible it is for me to formplans, and transmit them across the Atlantic for approbation, thusletting an opportunity slip which is irrecoverable. " CHAPTER IX MAY 3. 1815--OCTOBER 18, 1816 Decides to return home in the fall. --Hopes to return to Europe in ayear. --Ambitions. --Paints "Judgment of Jupiter. "--Not allowed to competefor premium. --Mr. Russell's portrait. --Reproof of his parents. --Battle ofWaterloo. --Wilberforce. --Painting of "Dying Hercules" received byparents. --Much admired. --Sails for home. --Dreadful voyage lastingfifty-eight days. --Extracts from his journal. --Home at last. It was with great reluctance that Morse made his preparations to returnhome. He thought that, could he but remain a year or two longer in anatmosphere much more congenial to an artist than that which prevailed inAmerica at that time, he would surely attain to greater eminence in hisprofession. He, in common with many others, imagined that, with the return of peace, an era of great prosperity would at once set in. But in this he wasmistaken, for history records that just the opposite occurred. The warhad made demands on manufacturers, farmers, and provision dealers whichwere met by an increase in inventions and in production, and this meantwealth and prosperity to many. When the war ceased, this demand suddenlyfell off; the soldiers returning to their country swelled the army of theunemployed, and there resulted increased misery among the lower classes, and a check to the prosperity of the middle and upper classes. It wouldseem, therefore, that Fate dealt more kindly with the young man than he, at that time, realized; for, had he remained, his discouragements wouldundoubtedly have increased; whereas, by his return to his native land, although meeting with many disappointments and suffering many hardships, he was gradually turned into a path which ultimately led to fame andfortune. On May 3, 1815, he writes to his parents:-- "With respect to returning home, I shall make my arrangements to be withyou (should my life be spared) by the end of September next, or thebeginning of October; but it will be necessary that I should be inEngland again (provided always Providence permits) by Septemberfollowing, as arrangements which I have made will require my presence. This I will fully explain when I meet you. "The moment I get home I wish to begin work, so that I should like tohave some portraits bespoken in season. I shall charge forty dollars lessthan Stuart for my portraits, so that, if any of my good friends areready, I will begin the moment I have said 'how do ye do' to them. "I wish to do as much as possible in the year I am with you. If I couldget a commission or two for some large pictures for a church or publichall, to the amount of two or three thousand dollars, I should feel muchgratified. I do not despair of such an event, for, through your influencewith the clergy and their influence with their people, I think somecommission for a scripture subject for a church might be obtained; acrucifixion, for instance. "It may, perhaps, be said that the country is not rich enough to purchaselarge pictures; yes, but two or three thousand dollars can be paid for anentertainment which is gone in a day, and whose effects are to demoralizeand debilitate, whilst the same sum expended on a fine picture would beadding an ornament to the country which would be lasting. It would tendto elevate and refine the public feeling by turning their thoughts fromsensuality and luxury to intellectual pleasures, and it would encourageand support a class of citizens who have always been reckoned among thebrightest stars in the constellation of American worthies, and who are, to this day, compelled to exile themselves from their country and allthat is dear to them, in order to obtain a bare subsistence. "I do not speak of _portrait-painters;_ had I no higher thoughts thanbeing a first-rate portrait-painter, I would have chosen a far differentprofession. My ambition is to be among those who shall revive thesplendor of the fifteenth century; to rival the genius of a Raphael, aMichael Angelo, or a Titian; my ambition is to be enlisted in theconstellation of genius now rising in this country; I wish to shine, notby a light borrowed from them, but to strive to shine the brightest. "If I could return home and stay a year visiting my friends in variousparts of the Union, and, by painting portraits, make sufficient to bringme to England again at the end of the year, whilst I obtained commissionsenough to employ me and support me while in England, I think, in thecourse of a year or two, I shall have obtained sufficient credit toenable me to return home, if not for the remainder of my life, at leastto pay a good long visit. "In all these plans I wish you to understand me as always taking intoconsideration _the will of Providence;_ and, in every plan for futureoperation, I hope I am not forgetful of the uncertainty of human life, and I wish always to say _should I live_ I will do this or that. . . . "I perceive by your late letters that you suppose I am painting a largepicture. I did think of it some time ago and was only deterred on accountof the expenses attending it. All this I will explain to your entiresatisfaction when I see you, and why I do not think it expedient to makean exhibition when I return. "I perceive also that you are a little too sanguine with respect to meand expect a little too much from me. You must recollect I am yet but astudent and that a picture of any merit is not painted in a day. Experienced as Mr. West is (and he also paints quicker than any otherartist), his last large picture cost him between three and four years'constant attention. Mr. Allston was nearly two years in painting hislarge picture. Young Haydon was three years painting his large picture, is now painting another on which he has been at work one year and expectsto be two years more on it. Leslie was ten months painting his picture, and my 'Hercules' cost me nearly a year's study. So you see that largepictures are not the work of a moment. "All these matters we will talk over one of these days, and all will beset right. I had better paint Miss Russell's, Aunt Salisbury's, and Dr. Bartlett's pictures at home for a very good reason I will give you. " He did, however, complete a large historical, or rather mythological, painting before leaving England. Whether it was begun before or afterwriting the foregoing letter, I do not know, but Mr. Dunlap (whom I havealready quoted) has this to say about it:-- "Encouraged by the flattering reception of his first works in paintingand in sculpture, the young artist redoubled his energies in his studiesand determined to contend for the highest premium in historicalcomposition offered by the Royal Academy at the beginning of the year1814. The subject was 'The Judgment of Jupiter in the case of Apollo, Marpessa and Idas. ' The premium offered was a gold medal and fiftyguineas. The decision was to take place in December of 1815. Thecomposition containing four figures required much study, but, by theexercise of great diligence, the picture was completed by the middle ofJuly. "Our young painter had now been in England four years, one year longerthan the time allowed him by his parents, and he had to returnimmediately home; but he had finished his picture under the conviction, strengthened by the opinion of West, that it would be allowed to remainand compete with those of the other candidates. To his regret thepetition to the council of the Royal Academy for this favor, handed in tothem by West and advocated strongly by him and Fuseli, was not granted. He was told that it was necessary, according to the rules of the Academy, that the artist should be present to receive the premium; it could not bereceived by proxy. Fuseli expressed himself in very indignant terms atthe narrowness of this decision. "Thus disappointed, the artist had but one mode of consolation. Heinvited West to see his picture before he packed it up, at the same timerequesting Mr. West to inform him through Mr. Leslie, after the premiumshould be adjudged in December, what chance he would have had if he hadremained. Mr. West, after sitting before the picture for a long time, promised to comply with the request, but added: 'You had better remain, sir. '" In a letter quoted, without a date, by Mr. Prime, which was written fromBristol, but which seems to have been lost, I find the following:-- "James Russell, Esq. , has been extremely attentive to me. He has a veryfine family consisting of four daughters and, I think, a son who isabsent in the East Indies. The daughters are very beautiful, accomplished, and amiable, especially the youngest, Lucy. I came verynear being at my old game of falling in love, but I find that love andpainting are quarrelsome companions, and that the house of my heart istoo small for both of them; so I have turned Mrs. Love out-of-doors. Timeenough, thought I (with true old bachelor complacency), time enough foryou these ten years to come. Mr. Russell's portrait I have painted as apresent to Miss Russell, and will send it to her as soon as I can get anopportunity. It is an excellent likeness of him. " He must either have said more in this letter, or have written anotherafter the family verdict (that terrible family verdict) had beenpronounced, for in the letter of April 23, 1815, from which I havealready quoted, he refers to this portrait as follows:-- "As to the portrait which I painted of Mr. Russell, I am sorry youmentioned it to Miss Russell, as I particularly requested that you wouldnot, because, in case of failure, it would be a disappointment to her;but as you have told her, I must now explain. In the first place it isnot a picture that will do me any credit. I was unfortunate in the lightwhich I chose to paint him in; I wished to make it my best picture and somade it my worst, for I worked too timidly on it. It is a likeness, indeed, a very strong likeness, but the family are not pleased with it, and they say that I have not flattered him, that I have made him too old. So I determined I would not send it, indeed, I promised them I would notsend it; but, notwithstanding, as I know Miss Russell will be good enoughto comply with my conditions, I will send it directly; for, as it is agood likeness, every one except the family knowing it instantly, and Mr. Allston saying that it is a _very strong likeness_, it will on thataccount be a gratification to her. But I _particularly_ and _expresslyrequest_ that it be kept in a private room to be shown _only_ to friendsand relations, and that I _may never be mentioned as the painter;_ and, moreover, that no _artist_ or _miniature painter_ be allowed to see it. On these conditions I send it, taking for granted they will be compliedwith, and without waiting for an answer. " The parents of that generation were not frugal of counsel and advice, even when their children had reached years of discretion and had flownfar away from the family nest. The father, in a letter of May 20, 1815, thus gently reproves his son:-- "To-day we have received your letters to March 23. . . . You evidentlymisconceived our views in the letters to which you allude, and felt muchtoo strongly our advice and remarks in respect to your writing us so muchon politics. What we said was the affectionate advice of your parents, who loved you very tenderly, and who were not unwilling you should judgefor yourself though you might differ from them. We have ever made a verycandid allowance for you, and so have all your friends, and we have neverfor a moment believed we should differ a fortnight after you should comehome and converse with us. You have, in the ardor of feeling, construedmany observations in our letters as censuring you and designed to woundyour feelings, which were not intended in the remotest degree by us forany such purpose. . . . "I am sorry to hear of the death of Mr. Thornton. He was a good man. " His mother was much less gentle in her reproof. I cull the followingsentences from a long letter of June 1, 1815:-- "In perfect consistency with the feelings towards you all, abovedescribed, we may and ought to tell you, and that with the greatestplainness, of anything that we deem improper in any part of your conduct, either in a civil, social, or religious view. This we feel it our duty todo and shall continue to do as long as we live; and it will ever be yourduty to receive from us the advice, counsel, and reproof, which we may, from time to time, favor you with, with the most perfect respect anddutiful observance; and, when you differ from us on any point whatever, let that difference be conveyed to us in the most delicate andgentlemanly manner. Let this be done not only while you are under age anddependent on your parents for your support, but when you are independent, and when you are head of a family, and even of a profession, if you evershould be either. . . . I have dwelt longer on this subject, as I think youhave, in some of your last letters, been somewhat deficient in thatrespect which your own good sense will at once convince you was, on allaccounts, due, and which I know you feel the propriety of without anyfurther observations. " On June 2, 1815, the father writes:-- "We have just received a letter from your uncle, James E. B. Finley, ofCarolina. He fears you will remain in Europe, but hopes you have so much_amor patrice_ as to return and display your talents in raising themilitary and naval glory of the nation, by exhibiting on canvas some ofher late naval and land actions, and also promote the fine arts among us. He is, you know, an enthusiastic Republican and patriot and a warmapprover of the late war, but an amiable, excellent man. I am by no meanscertain that it would not be best for you to come home this fall andspend a year or two in this country in painting some portraits, butespecially historical pieces and landscapes. You might, I think, in thisway succeed in getting something to support you afterwards in Europe fora few years. "I hope the time is not distant when artists in your profession, and ofthe first class, will be honorably patronized and supported in thiscountry. In this case you can come and live with us, which would give usmuch satisfaction. " The young man still took a deep interest in affairs political, andspeculated rather keenly on the outcome of the tremendous happenings onthe Continent. On June 26, 1815, he writes:-- "You will have heard of the dreadful battle in Flanders before thisreaches you. The loss of the English is immense, indeed almost all theirfinest officers and the flower of their army; not less than 800 officersand upwards of 15, 000 men, some say 20, 000. But it has been decisive ifthe news of to-day be true, that Napoleon has abdicated. What the eventof these unparalleled times will be no mortal can pretend to foresee. Ihave much to tell you when I see you. Perhaps you had better not writeafter the receipt of this, as it may be more than two months before ananswer could be received. "P. S. The papers of to-night confirm the news of this morning. Bonaparteis no longer a dangerous man; he has abdicated, and, in all probability, a republican form of government will be the future government of France, if they are capable of enjoying such a government. But no one can foreseeevents; there may be a long peace, or the world may be torn worse than ityet has been. Revolution seems to succeed revolution so rapidly that, inlooking back on our lives, we seem to have lived a thousand years, andwonders of late seem to scorn to come alone; they come in clusters. " The battle in Flanders was the battle of Waterloo, which was fought onthe 18th day of June, and on the 6th of July the allied armies againentered Paris. Referring to these events many years later, Morse said:-- "It was on one of my visits, in the year 1815, that an incident occurredwhich well illustrates the character of the great philanthropist [Mr. Wilberforce]. As I passed through Hyde Park on my way to Kensington Gore, I observed that great crowds had gathered, and rumors were rife that theallied armies had entered Paris, that Napoleon was a prisoner, and thatthe war was virtually at an end; and it was momentarily expected that thepark guns would announce the good news to the people. "On entering the drawing-room at Mr. Wilberforce's I found the company, consisting of Mr. Thornton [his memory must have played him false in thisparticular as Mr. Thornton died some time before], Mr. Macaulay, Mr. Grant, the father, and his two sons Robert and Charles, and Robert Owenof Lanark, in quite excited conversation respecting the rumors thatprevailed. Mr. Wilberforce expatiated largely on the prospects of auniversal peace in consequence of the probable overthrow of Napoleon, whom naturally he considered the great disturber of the nations. At everyperiod, however, he exclaimed: 'It is too good to be true, it cannot betrue. ' He was altogether skeptical in regard to the rumors. "The general subject, however, was the absorbing topic at thedinner-table. After dinner the company joined the ladies in thedrawing-room. I sat near a window which looked put in the direction ofthe distant park. Presently a flash and a distant dull report of a gunattracted my attention, but was unnoticed by the rest of the company. Another flash and report assured me that the park guns were firing, andat once I called Mr. Wilberforce's attention to the fact. Running to thewindow he threw it up in time to see the next flash and hear the report. Clasping his hands in silence, with the tears rolling down his cheeks, hestood for a few moments perfectly absorbed in thought, and, beforeuttering a word, embraced his wife and daughters, and shook hands withevery one in the room. The scene was one not to be forgotten. " We learn from a letter of his mother's dated June 27, 1815, that thepainting of the "Dying Hercules" had at last been received, but that theplaster cast of the same subject was still mysteriously missing. Thepainting was much admired, and the mother says:-- "Your friend Mr. Tisdale says the picture of the Hercules ought to be inBoston as the beginning of a gallery of paintings, and that theBostonians ought not to permit it to go from here. Whether they will ornot, I know not. I place no confidence in them, but they may take a fitinto their heads to patronize the fine arts, and, in that case, they haveit in their power undoubtedly to do as much as any city in this countrytowards their support. " Morse had now made up his mind to return home, although his parents, intheir letters of that time, had given him leave to stay longer if hethought it would be for his best interest, but his father had made itclear that he must, from this time forth, depend on his own exertions. Hehoped that (Providence permitting) he need only spend a year at home inearning enough money to warrant his returning to Europe. Providence, however, willed otherwise, and he did not return to Europe until fourteenyears later. The next letter is dated from Liverpool, August 8, 1815, and is but ashort one. I shall quote the first few sentences:-- "I have arrived thus far on my way home. I left London the 5th andarrived in this place yesterday the 7th, at which time, within an hour, four years ago, I landed in England. I have not yet determined by whatvessel to return; I have a choice of a great many. The Ceres is the firstthat sails, but I do not like her accommodations. The Liverpool packetsails about the 25th, and, as she has always been a favorite ship withme, it is not improbable I may return in her. " He decided to sail in the Ceres, however, to his sorrow, for the voyagehome was a long and dreadful one. The record of those terriblefifty-eight days, carefully set down in his journal, reads like anOdyssey of misfortune and almost of disaster. To us of the present day, who cross the ocean in a floating hotel, in afew days, arriving almost on the hour, the detailed account of thedangers, discomforts, and privations suffered by the travellers of anearlier period seems almost incredible. Brave, indeed, were our fatherswho went down to the sea in ships, for they never knew when, if ever, they would reach the other shore, and there could be no C. Q. D. Or S. O. S. Flashed by wireless in the Morse code to summon assistance in case ofdisaster. In this case storm succeeded storm; head winds were encounteredalmost all the way across; fine weather and fair winds were theexception, and provisions and fresh water were almost exhausted. The following quotations from the journal will give some idea of theterrors experienced by the young man, whose appointed time had not yetarrived. He still had work to do in the world which could be done by noother. "_Monday, August 21, 1815. _ After waiting fourteen days in Liverpool fora fair wind, we set sail at three o'clock in the afternoon with the windat southeast, in company with upwards of two hundred sail of vessels, which formed a delightful prospect. We gradually lost sight of differentvessels as it approached night, and at sunset they were dispersed allover the horizon. In the night the wind sprung up strong and fair, and inthe morning we were past Holyhead. "_Tuesday, 22d August. _ Wind directly ahead; beating all day; thickweather and gales of wind; passengers all sick and I not altogether well. Little progress to-day. "_Wednesday, 23d August. _ A very disagreeable day, boisterous, head windsand rainy. Beating across the channel from the Irish to the Welsh coast. * * * * * "_Friday, 25th August. _ Dreadful still; blowing harder and harder; quitea storm and a lee shore; breakers in sight, tacked and stood over againto the Irish shore under close-reefed topsails. At night saw Waterfordlight again. * * * * * "_Monday, 28th August. _ A fair wind springing up (ten o'clock). Going atthe rate of seven knots on our true course. We have had just a week ofthe most disagreeable weather possible. I hope this is the beginning ofbetter winds, and that, in reasonable time, we shall see our nativeshore. "_Tuesday, 29th August. _ Still disappointed in fair winds. . . . Since, then, I can find nothing consoling on deck, let us see what is in thecabin. All of us make six, four gentlemen and two ladies. Mrs. Phillips, Mrs. Drake, Captain Chamberlain, Mr. Bancroft, Mr. Lancaster, and myself. Our amusements are eating and drinking, sleeping and backgammon. Seasickness we have thrown overboard, and, all things considered, we tryto enjoy ourselves and sometimes succeed. * * * * * "_Thursday, 31st August. _ Wind as directly ahead as it can blow; squallyall night and tremendous sea. What a contrast does this voyage make withmy first. This day makes the tenth day out and we have advanced towardshome about three hundred miles. In my last voyage, on the tenth day, wehad accomplished one half our voyage, sixteen hundred miles. "_Friday, 1st September. _ Dreadful weather; wind still ahead; foggy, rainy, and heavy swell; patience almost exhausted, but the will of Heavenbe done. If this weather is to continue I hope we shall have fortitude tobear it. All is for the best. "_Saturday, 9th September. _ Nineteenth day out and not yet more than onethird of our way to Boston. Oh! when shall we end this tedious passage? "_Sunday, 10th September. _ Calm with dreadful sea. Early this morningdiscovered a large ship to the southward, dismasted, probably in the lategale. Discovered an unpleasant trait in our captain's character which Ishall merely allude to. I am sorry to say he did not demonstrate thatpromptitude to assist a fellow creature in distress which I expected tofind inherent in a seaman's breast, and especially in an Americanseaman's. It was not till after three or four hours' delay, and until theentreaties of his passengers and some threatening murmurs on my part of apublic exposure in Boston of his conduct, that he ordered the ship tobear down upon the wreck, and then with slackened sail and muchgrumbling. A ship and a brig were astern of us, and, though farther bysome miles from the distressed ship than we were, they instantly boredown for her, and rendered her this evening the assistance we might havedone at noon. We are now standing on our way with a fair wind springingup at southeast, which I suppose will last a few hours. Spent the day inreligious exercises, and was happy to observe on the part of the rest ofthe passengers a due regard for the solemnity of the day. "_Monday, 11th September. _ Wind still ahead and the sky threatening. --Teno'clock. Beginning to blow hard; taking in sails one after another. --Three o'clock. A perfect storm; the gale a few days ago but a gentlebreeze to it. . . . I never witnessed so tremendous a gale; the wind blowingso that it can scarcely be faced; the sea like ink excepting thewhiteness of the surge, which is carried into the air like clouds ofdust, or like the driving of snow. The wind piping through our barerigging sounds most terrific; indeed, it is a most awful sight. The seain mountains breaking over our bows, and a single wave dispersing in mistthrough the violence of the storm; ship rolling to such a degree that weare compelled to keep our berths; cabin dark with the deadlights in. Oh!who would go to sea when he can stay on shore! The wind in southwestdriving us back again, so that we are losing all the advantages of ourfair wind of yesterday, which lasted, as I supposed, two or three hours. * * * * * "_Tuesday, 12th September. _ Gale abated, but head wind still. . . . "_Wednesday, 13th September. _ All last night a tremendous storm fromnorthwest. "_Thursday, 14th September. _ The storm increased to a tremendous heightlast night. The clouds at sunset were terrific in the extreme, and, inthe evening, still more so with lightning. The sea has risen frightfullyand everything wears a most alarming aspect. At 3 A. M. A squall struck usand laid us almost wholly under water; we came near losing ourforemast. . . . None of us able to sleep from the dreadful noises; creakingsand howlings and thousands of indescribable sounds. Lord! who can endurethe terror of thy storm!. . . Yesterday's sea was as molehills to mountainscompared with the sea to-day. . . . "_Friday, 15th September. _ The storm somewhat abated this morning, butstill blowing hard from southwest. . . . Twenty-four days out to-day. "_Saturday, 16th September. _ Blowing a gale of wind from southwest. Noonalmost calm for half an hour, when, on a sudden, the wind shifted to thenortheast, when it blew such a hurricane that every one on board declaredthey never saw its equal. For four hours it blew so hard that all the seawas in a perfect foam, and resembled a severe snowstorm more than a dryblow. If the wind roared before, it now shrilly whistled through ourrigging. " After some days of calm with winds sometimes favorable but light, and, when fresh, ahead, the journal continues:-- "_Monday, 25th September. _ Another gale of wind last night, ahead, dreadful sea; took in sail and lay to all night. . . . Beginning to think ofour provisions; bread mouldy and little left; sugar, little left; freshprovisions, little left; beans, none left; salt pork, little left; saltbeef, a plenty; water, plenty; stores of passengers, some gone and therest drawing to a conclusion; patience drawing to a conclusion; in shortall is falling short and drawing to a conclusion except _our voyage andmy journal_. . . . "_Tuesday, 26th September. _. . . Find our captain to be a complete oldwoman; takes in sail at night and never knows when to set it again; thelonger we know him, the more surly he grows; he is not even civil. . . . Several large turtles passed within a few feet of us yesterday andto-day, and, considering we are near the end of our provisions, one wouldhave thought our captain would be anxious to take them; but no, it wastoo much trouble to lower the boat from the stern. * * * * * "_Friday, 29th September. _ Last night another dreadful gale, as severe asany since we have been out. * * * * * "_Monday, 2d October. _ Last night another gale of wind from northwest andis this morning still blowing hard and cold from the same quarter. What adreadful passage is ours; we seem destined to have no fair wind, and tohave a gale of wind every other day. "_Saturday, 7th October. _ Wind still ahead and blowing hard; very coldand dismal. Oh! when shall we see home!. . . I thought I could observe akind of warfare between the different winds since we have been at sea. The west wind seems to be the tyrant at present, as it were the Bonaparteof the air. He has been blowing his gales very lavishly, and no otherwind has been able to check him with any success. "I recollect on one day, while it was calm, a thick bank of clouds beganto rise in the northeast; no other clouds were in the sky. They rosegently in the calm as if fearful of rousing their deadly foe in the west. Now they had gained one third of the heavens when, behold, in thesouthwest another bank of thick black clouds came rolling up, and, reddening in the rays of the setting sun, marched on, teeming with fury. They soon gained the middle of the heavens where the frightened northeasthad not yet reached. They met, they mixed, the routed northeast skulkedback, while the thick column of the southwest, having driven back itsenemy, slowly returned to its repose, proudly displaying a thousandvarious colors, as if for victory. "At another time success seemed to be more in favor of the northeast;for, shortly after this great defeat, the southwest came forth and, likea petty tyrant intoxicated with success, began to oppress the subjectocean. It blew its gales and filled the air with clouds and rain and fog. Suddenly the northeast, as under cover of the darkness, and as one drivento desperation, burst forth on its too confident enemy with redoubledfury. Old ocean groans at the dreadful conflict; for, as in the warringof two hostile armies on the domains of a neutral, the neutral suffersmost severely, so the neutral ocean seemed doomed to bear the weight ofall their rancor. The southwest flies affrighted. And now the northeast, vaunting forth, stalks with the rage of an angry demon over the waters;the ocean foams beneath his breath, it steams and smokes and heaves inagony its troubled bosom. "But, alas! how few can bear prosperity; how few, when victory crownstheir efforts, can rule with moderation; how often, does it happen thatwe reënact the same scenes for which we punished our enemy. For now hasthe northeast become the tyrant and rules with tenfold rigor; he poursforth all his strength and, drunk with success as soldiers after avictory, at length sinks away into an inglorious calm. "Now does the southwest collect his routed forces, checked but notconquered; he again advances on his recreant foe and seizes the vacantthrone without a struggle. Ill-fated northeast! hadst thou but ruled withmoderation when thou hadst gained, with masterly manoeuvre, the throne ofthe air; hadst thou reserved thy forces against surprise, and not, withprodigal profuseness, lavished them on thy harmless subjects, thou hadststill been monarch of the sea and air; all would have blessed thee as therestorer of peace, and as the deliverer of the ocean from westerndespotism. But alas! how art thou fallen an everlasting example ofoverreaching oppression. "This evening there is a fine fair wind from northeast carrying us on atthe rate of five or six knots. This is the cause of the foregoingrhapsody. Had it been otherwise than a fair wind I should never havebeen in spirits to have written so much stuff. " Still tantalized by baffling head winds and alternating calms and gales, they were, however, gradually approaching the coast. Omitting the entriesof the next eleven days, I shall quote the final pages of the journal. "_Wednesday, 18th October. _ Last night was a sleepless night to us all. Everything wore the appearance of a hard storm; all was dull in thecabin; scarce a word was spoken; every one wore a serious aspect and, asany one came from the deck into the cabin, the rest put up an inquisitiveand apprehensive look, with now and then a faint, 'Well, how does it looknow?' Our captain, as well as the passenger captain, were both alarmed, and were poring over the chart in deep deliberation. A syllable was nowand then caught from them, but all seemed despairing. "At ten o'clock we lay to till twelve; at four again till five. Rainy, thick, and hazy, but not blowing very hard. All is dull and dismal; adreadful state of suspense, between feelings of exquisite joy in the hopeof soon seeing home, and feelings of gloomy apprehension that a few hoursmay doom us to destruction. "_Half-past seven. _. . . Heaven be praised! The joyful tidings are justannounced of _Land!!_ Oh! who can conceive our feelings now? The wretchcondemned to the scaffold, who receives, at the moment he expects to die, the joyful reprieve, he can best conceive the state of our minds. "The land is Cape Cod, distant about ten miles. Joyful, joyful is thethought. To-night we shall, in all probability, be in Boston. We aregoing at the rate of seven knots. "_Half-past 9. _ Manomet land in sight. "_Ten o'clock. _ Cape Ann in sight. "_Eleven o'clock. _ Boston Light in sight. "_One o'clock. _ HOME!!!" [Illustration:On board the Ship CeresBoston Harbour My Dear Parents, Thanks to a kind Providence whohas preserved me through all dangers, I have atlength arrived in my native land. I send thisjust to prepare you, I shall be with you assoon as I can possibly get on shore. We havehad 58 days passage long, boisterous, and dangerous, but more when I see you. Pray tell meby the bearer if I shall find all well. Your very affectionate Son, Samuel B. Morse October 18, 1875] CHAPTER X APRIL 10, 1816--OCTOBER 5, 1818 Very little success at home. --Portrait of ex-President John Adams. --Letter to Allston on sale of his "Dead Man restored to Life. "--Alsoapologizes for hasty temper. --Reassured by Allston. --Humorous letter fromLeslie. --Goes to New Hampshire to paint portraits. --Concord. --Meets MissLucretia Walker. --Letters to his parents concerning her. --His parentsreply. --Engaged to Miss Walker. --His parents approve. --Many portraitspainted. --Miss Walker's parents consent. --Success in Portsmouth. --Morseand his brother invent a pump. --Highly endorsed by President Day and EliWhitney. --Miss Walker visits Charlestown. --Morse's religiousconvictions. --More success in New Hampshire. --Winter in Charleston, SouthCarolina. --John A. Alston. --Success. --Returns north. --Letter from hisuncle Dr. Finley. --Marriage. There is no record of the meeting of the parents and the long-absent son, but it is easy to picture the joy of that occasion, and to imagine themany heart-to-heart conversations when all differences, political andotherwise, were smoothed over. He remained at home that winter, but seems to have met with but slightsuccess in his profession. His "Judgment of Jupiter" was much admired, but found no purchaser, nor did he receive any commissions for such largehistorical paintings as it was his ambition to produce. He was asked by acertain Mr. Joseph Delaplaine, of Philadelphia, to paint a portrait ofex-President John Adams for _half_ price, the portrait to be engraved andincluded in "Delaplaine's Repository of the Lives and Portraits ofDistinguished American Characters, " and, from letters of a later date, Ibelieve that Morse consented to this. It appears that he must also have received but few, if any, orders forportraits, for, in the following summer, he started on a painting tourthrough New Hampshire, which proved to be of great moment to him in moreways than one. Before we follow him on that tour, however, I shall quote from a letterwritten by him to his friend Washington Allston:-- Boston, April 10, 1816. MY DEAR SIR, --I have but one moment to write you by a vessel which sailsto-morrow morning. I wrote Leslie by New Packet some months since and amhourly expecting an answer. I congratulate you, my dear sir, on the sale of your picture of the "DeadMan. " I suppose you will have received notice, before this reaches you, that the Philadelphia Academy of Arts have purchased it for the sum ofthirty-five hundred dollars. Bravo for our country! I am sincerely rejoiced for you and for the disposition which it shows offuture encouragement. I really think the time is not far distant when weshall be able to settle in our native land with profit as well aspleasure. Boston seems struggling in labor to bring forth an institutionfor the arts, but it will miscarry; I find it is all forced. They cantalk, and talk, and say what a fine thing it would be, but nothing isdone. I find by experience that what you have often observed to me withrespect to settling in Boston is well founded. I think it will be thelast in the arts, though, without doubt, it is capable of being thefirst, if the fit would only take them. Oh! how I miss you, my dear sir. I long to spend my evenings again with you and Leslie. I shall certainlyvisit Italy (should I live and no unforeseen event take place) in thecourse of a year or eighteen months. Could there not be some arrangementmade to meet you and Leslie there? He lived, but the "unforeseen event" occurred to make him alter all hisplans. Further on in this same letter he says:-- "My conscience accuses me, and hardly too, of many instances ofpettishness and ill-humor towards you, which make me almost hate myselfthat I could offend a temper like yours. I need not ask you to forgiveit; I know you cannot harbor anger a minute, and perhaps have forgottenthe instances; but I cannot forget them. If you had failings of the samekind and I could recollect any instances where you had spoken pettishlyor ill-natured to me, our accounts would then have been balanced, theywould have called for mutual forgetfulness and forgiveness; but when, onreflection, I find nothing of the kind to charge you with, my conscienceseverely upbraids me with ingratitude to you, to whom (under Heaven) Iowe all the little knowledge of my art which I possess. But I hope stillI shall prove grateful to you; at any rate, I feel my errors and mustmend them. " Mr. Allston thus answers this frank appeal for forgiveness:-- MY DEAR SIR, --I will not apologize for having so long delayed answeringyour kind letter, being, as you well know, privileged by my friends to bea lazy correspondent. I was sorry to find that you should have sufferedthe recollection of any hasty expressions you might have uttered to giveyou uneasiness. Be assured that they never were remembered by me a momentafter, nor did they ever in the slightest degree diminish my regard orweaken my confidence in the sincerity of your friendship or the goodnessof your heart. Besides, the consciousness of warmth in my own temperwould have made me inexcusable had I suffered myself to dwell on aninadvertent word from another. I therefore beg you will no longer sufferany such unpleasant reflections to disturb your mind, but that you willrest assured of my unaltered and sincere esteem. Your letter and one I had about the same time from my sister Mary broughtthe first intelligence of the sale of my picture, it being near threeweeks later when I received the account from Philadelphia. When yourecollect that I considered the "Dead Man" (from the untoward fate he hadhitherto experienced) almost literally as a _caput mortuum_, you mayeasily believe that I was most agreeably surprised to hear of the sale. But, pleased as I was on account of the very seasonable pecuniary supplyit would soon afford me, I must say that I was still more gratified atthe encouragement it seemed to hold out for my return to America. His friend Leslie, in a letter from London of May 7, 1816, writes: "Mr. West said your picture would have been more likely than any of them toobtain the prize had you remained. " In another letter from Leslie of September 6, 1816, occurs this amusingpassage:-- "The _Catalogue Raisonné_ appeared according to promise, but is not nearso good as the one last year. At the conclusion the author says that Mr. Payne Knight told the directors it was the custom of the Greek nobilityto strip and exhibit themselves naked to the artists in variousattitudes, that they might have an opportunity of studying fine form. Accordingly those public-spirited men, the directors, have determined toadopt the plan, and are all practising like mad to prepare themselves forthe ensuing exhibition, when they are to be placed on pedestals. "It is supposed that Sir G. Beaumont, Mr. Long, Mr. Knight, etc. , willoccupy the principal lights. The Marquis of Stafford, unfortunately, could not recollect the attitude of any one antique figure, but was foundpractising having the head of the Dying Gladiator, the body of theHercules, one leg of the Apollo, and the other of the Dancing Faun, turned the wrong way. Lord Mulgrave, having a small head, thought ofrepresenting the Torso, but he did not know what to do with his legs, andwas afraid that, as Master of the Ordnance, he could not dispense withhis _arms_. " In the beginning of August, 1816, the young man started out on his questfor money. This was frankly the object of his journey, but it wascharacteristic of his buoyant and yet conscientious nature that, havingonce made up his mind to give up, for the present, all thoughts ofpursuing the higher branches of his art, he took up with zest thepainting of portraits. So far from degrading his art by pursuing a branch of it which he held tobe inferior, he still, by conscientious work, by putting the best ofhimself into it, raised it to a very high plane; for many of hisportraits are now held by competent critics to rank high in the annals ofart, by some being placed on a level with those of Gilbert Stuart. On August 8, 1816, he writes to his parents from Concord, NewHampshire:-- "I have been in this place since Monday evening. I arrived safely. . . . Massabesek Pond is very beautiful, though seen on a dull day. I thinkthat one or two elegant views might be made from it, and I think I mustsketch it at some future period. "I have as yet met with no success in portraits, but hope, byperseverance, I shall be able to find some. My stay in this place dependson that circumstance. If none offer, I shall go for Hanover on Saturdaymorning. "The scenery is very fine on the Merrimack; many fine pictures could bemade here alone. I made a little sketch near Contoocook Falls yesterday. I go this morning with Dr. McFarland to see some views. Colonel Kent'sfamily are very polite to me, and I never felt in better spirits; theweather is now fine and I feel as though I was growing fat. " CONCORD, August 16, 1816. I am still here and am passing my time very agreeably. I have paintedfive portraits at fifteen dollars each and have two more engaged and manymore talked of. I think I shall get along well. I believe I could make anindependent fortune in a few years if I devoted myself exclusively toportraits, so great is the desire for good portraits in the differentcountry towns. He must have been a very rapid worker to have painted five portraits ineight days; but, perhaps, on account of the very modest price hereceived, these were more in the nature of quick sketches. The next letter is rather startling when we recall his recent assertionsconcerning "Mrs. Love" and the joys of a bachelor existence. CONCORD, August 20, 1816. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I write you a few lines just to say I am well and veryindustrious. Next day after to-morrow I shall have received one hundreddollars, which I think is pretty well for three weeks. I shall probablystay here a fortnight from yesterday. I have other attractions besides money in this place. Do you know theWalkers of this place? Charles Walker Esq. , son of Judge Walker, has twodaughters, the elder, very beautiful, amiable, and of an excellentdisposition. This is her character in town. I have enquired particularlyof Dr. McFarland respecting the family, and his answer is every waysatisfactory, except that they are not professors of religion. He is aman of family and great wealth. This last, you know, I never made aprincipal object, but it is somewhat satisfactory to know that in myprofession. I may flatter myself, but I think I might be a successful suitor. You will, perhaps, think me a terrible harum-scarum fellow to becontinually falling in love in this way, but I have a dread of being anold bachelor, and I am now twenty-five years of age. There is still no need of hurry; the young lady is but sixteen. But allthis is thinking aloud to you; I make you my confidants; I wish youradvice; nothing shall be done precipitately. Of course all that I say is between you and me, for it all may come tonothing; I have _some experience_ that way. What I have done I have done prayerfully. I have prayed to the Giver ofevery good gift that He will direct me in this business; that, if it willnot be to his glory and the good of his Kingdom, He will frustrate all;that, if He grants me prosperity, He will grant me a heart to use itaright; and, if adversity, that He will teach me submission to his will;and that, whatever may be my lot here, I may not fall short of eternalhappiness hereafter. I hope you will remember me in your prayers, and especially in referenceto a connection in life. I do not think that his parents took this matter very seriously at first. His was an intensely affectionate nature, and they had often heard thesesame raptures before. However, like wise parents, they did not scoff. Hismother wrote on August 23, 1816, in answer: "With respect to the otherconfidential matter, I hope the Lord will direct you to a proper choice. We know nothing of the family, good or bad. We do not wish you to be anold bachelor, nor do we wish you to precipitate yourself and others intodifficulties which you cannot get rid of. " In the same letter his father says: "In regard to the subject on whichyou ask our advice, we refer it, after the experience you have had, andwith the advice you have often had from us, to your own judgment. Be nothasty in entering into any engagement; enquire with caution and delicacy;do everything that is honorable and gentlemanly respecting yourself andthose concerned. 'Pause, ponder, sift. --Judge before friendship--thenconfide till death. ' (Young. ) Above all, commit the subject to God inprayer and ask his guidance and blessing. I am glad to find you are doingthis. " How well he obeyed his father's injunctions may be gathered from thefollowing letter, which speaks for itself:-- CONCORD, September 2, 1816. MY DEAR PARENTS, --I have just received yours of August 29. I leave townto-morrow morning, probably for Hanover, as there is no conveyance directto Walpole. I have had no more portraits since I wrote you, so that I have receivedjust one hundred dollars in Concord. The last I took for ten dollars, asthe person I painted obtained four of my sitters for me. . . . With respect to the confidential affair, everything is successful beyondmy most sanguine expectations. The more I know of her the more amiableshe appears. She is very beautiful and yet no coquetry; she is modest, quite to diffidence, and yet frank and open-hearted. Wherever I haveenquired concerning her I have invariably heard the same characterof--"remarkably amiable, modest, and of a sweet disposition. " When youlearn that this is the case I think you will not accuse me of being hastyin bringing the affair to a crisis. I ventured to tell her my wholeheart, and instead of obscure and ambiguous answers, which some wouldhave given to tantalize and pain one, she frankly, but modestly andtimidly, told me it was mutual. Suffice it to say we are _engaged_. If I know my parents I know they will be pleased with this amiable girl. Unless I was confident of it, I should never have been so hasty. I havenot yet mentioned it to her parents; she requested me to defer it tillnext summer, or till I see her again, lest she should be thought hasty. She is but sixteen and is willing to wait two or three years if it is forour mutual interest. Never, never was a human being so blest as I am, and yet what anungrateful wretch I have been. Pray for me that I may have a gratefulheart, for I deserve nothing but adversity, and yet have the mostunbounded prosperity. The father replies to this characteristic letter on September 4, 1816:-- "I have just received yours of the 2d inst. Its contents were deeplyinteresting to us, as you will readily suppose. It accounts to us why youhave made so long a stay at Concord. . . . So far as we can judge from yourrepresentations (which are all we have to judge from), we cannot refuseyou our approbation, and we hope that the course, on which you haveentered with your characteristic rapidity and decision, will be pursuedand issue in a manner which will conduce to the happiness of allconcerned. . . . "We think _her_ parents should be made acquainted with the state of thebusiness, as she is so young and the thing so important to them. " The son answers this letter, from Walpole, New Hampshire, on September 7, 1816, thus naively: "You think the parents of the young lady should bemade acquainted with the state of the business. I feel some degree ofawkwardness as it respects that part of the affair; I don't know themanner in which it ought to be done. I wish you would have the goodnessto write me immediately (at Walpole, to care of Thomas Bellows, Esq. ) andinform me what I should say. Might I communicate the information bywriting?" Here he gives a detailed account of the family, and, for the first time, mentions the young lady's name--Lucretia Pickering Walker--andcontinues:-- "You ask how the family have treated me. They are all aware of theattachment between us, for I have made my attention so open and so markedthat they all must have perceived it. I know that Lucretia must have hadsome conversation with her mother on the subject, for she told me oneday, when I asked her what her mother thought of my constant visits, thather mother said she 'didn't think I cared much about her, ' in a pleasantway. All the family have been extremely polite and attentive to me; Ireceived constant invitations to dinner and tea, indeed everyencouragement was given me. . . . "I painted two hasty sketches of scenery in Concord. I meet with nosuccess in Walpole. _Quacks_ have been before me. " There is always a touch of quaint, dry humor in his mother's letters inspite of their great seriousness, as witness the following extracts froma letter of September 9, 1816:-- "We hope you will feel more than ever the absolute necessity laid uponyou to procure for yourself and those you love a maintenance, as neitherof you can subsist long upon air. . . . Remember it takes a great manyhundred dollars to _make_ and to _keep_ the pot a-boiling. "I wish to see the young lady who has captivated you so much. I hope sheloves religion, and that, if you and she form a connection for life, some_five or six years hence_, you may go hand in hand to that better worldwhere they neither marry nor are given in marriage. . . . "You have not given us any satisfaction in respect to many things aboutthe young lady which you ought to suppose we should be anxious to know. All you have told us is that she is handsome and amiable. These are goodas far as they go, but there are a great many etcs. , etcs. , that we wantto know. "Is she acquainted with domestic affairs? Does she respect and lovereligion? How many brothers and sisters has she? How old are they? Is shehealthy? How old are her parents? What will they be likely to do for hersome years hence, say when she is twenty years old? "In your next answer at least some of these questions. You see yourmother has not lived twenty-seven years in New England without learningto ask questions. " These questions he had already answered in a letter which must havecrossed his mother's. On September 23, 1816, he writes from Windsor, Vermont:-- "I am still here but shall probably leave in a week or two. I long to gethome, or, at least, as far on my way as _Concord_. I think I shall betempted to stay a week or two there. . . . I do not like Windsor very much. It is a very dissipated place, and dissipation, too, of the lowest sort. There is very little gentleman's society. " WINDSOR, VERMONT, September 28, 1816. I am still in this place. . . . I have written Lucretia on the subject ofacquainting her parents, and I have no doubt she will assent. . . . I hearher spoken of in this part of the country as very celebrated, both forher beauty and, particularly, for her disposition; and this I have heardwithout there being the slightest suspicion of any attachment, or evenacquaintance, between us. This augurs well most certainly. I know she isconsidered in Concord as the first girl in the place. (You know I alwaysaimed highest. ) The more I think of this attachment the more I think Ishall not regret the _haste_ (if it may be so called) of this proposedconnection. . . . I am doing pretty well in this place, better than I expected; I have onemore portrait to do before I leave it. . . . I should have business, Ipresume, to last me some weeks if I could stay, but I long to get home_through Concord_. . . . Mama's scheme of painting a large landscape and selling it to GeneralBradley for two hundred dollars, must give place to another which hasjust come into my head: that of sending to you for my great canvas andpainting the quarrel at Dartmouth College, as large as life, with all theportraits of the trustees, overseers, officers of college, and students;and, if I finish it next week, to ask five thousand dollars for it andthen come home in a coach and six and put Ned to the blush with hisnineteen subscribers a day. Only think, $5000 a week is $260, 000 a year, and, if I live ten years, I shall be worth $2, 600, 000; a very prettyfortune for this time of day. Is it not a grand scheme? The remark concerning his brother Sidney Edwards's subscribers refers toa religious newspaper, the "Boston Recorder, " founded and edited by him. It was one of the first of the many religious journals which, since thattime, have multiplied all over the country. Continuing his modestly successful progress, he writes next from Hanover, on October 3, 1816:-- "I arrived in this place on Tuesday evening and am painting away with allmy might. I am painting Judge Woodward and lady, and think I shall havemany more engaged than I can do. I painted seven portraits at Windsor, one for my board and lodging at the inn, and one for ten dollars, verysmall, to be sent in a letter to a great distance; so that in all Ireceived eighty-five dollars in money. I have five more engaged atWindsor for next summer. So you see I have not been idle. "I _must_ spend a fortnight at Concord, so that I shall not probably beat home till early in November. "I think, with proper management, that I have but little to fear as tothis world. I think I can, with industry, average from two to threethousand dollars a year, which is a tolerable income, though _not equalto_ $2, 600, 000!" CONCORD, October 14, 1816. I arrived here on Friday evening in good health and spirits from Hanover. I painted four portraits altogether in Hanover, and have many engaged fornext summer. I presume I shall paint some here, though I am uncertain. I found Lucretia in good health, very glad to see me. She improves onacquaintance; she is, indeed, a most amiable, affectionate girl; I knowyou will love her. She has consented that I should inform her parents ofour attachment. I have, accordingly, just sent a letter to her father(twelve o'clock), and am now in a state of suspense anxiously waiting hisanswer. Before I close this, I hope to give you the result. _Five o'clock. _ I have just called and had a conversation (by request)with Mr. Walker, and I have the satisfaction to say: "I have Lucretia'sparents' entire approbation. " Everything successful! Praise be to thegiver of every good gift! What, indeed, shall I render to Him for all hisunmerited and continually increasing mercies and blessings? In a letter to Miss Walker from a girl friend we find the following:-- "You appear to think, dear Lucretia, that I am possessed of quite aninsensible _heart_; pardon me if I say the same of you, for I have heardthat several have become candidates for your affections, but that youremained unmoved until Mr. M. , of Charlestown, made his appearance, when, I understand, you did hope that his sentiments in your favor werereciprocal. "I rejoice to hear this, for, though I am unacquainted with thatgentleman, yet, when I heard he was likely to become a successful suitor, I have made some enquiries concerning him, and find he is possessed ofevery excellent and amiable quality that I should wish the person to havewho was to become the husband of so dear a friend as yourself. " Morse must have returned home about the end of October, for we find nomore letters until the 14th of December, when he writes from Portsmouth, New Hampshire:-- "I should have written you sooner but I have been employed in settlingmyself. I thought it best not to be precipitate in fixing on a place toboard and lodge, but first to sound the public as to my success. Everyone thinks I shall meet with encouragement, and, on the strength of this, I have taken lodgings and a room at Mrs. Hinge's in Jaffrey Street; avery excellent and central situation. . . . I shall commence on Mondaymorning with Governor Langdon's portrait. He is very kind and attentiveto me, as, indeed, are all here, and will do everything to aid me. I wishnot to raise high expectations, but I think I shall succeed tolerablywell. " About this time Finley Morse and his brother Edwards had jointly devisedand patented a new "flexible piston-pump, " from which they hoped greatthings. Edwards, always more or less of a wag, proposed to call it"Morse's Patent Metallic Double-headed Ocean-Drinker and Deluge-SpouterValve Pump-Boxes. " It was to be used in connection with fire-engines, and seems really tohave been an excellent invention, for President Jeremiah Day, of YaleCollege, gave the young inventors his written endorsement, and EliWhitney, the inventor of the cotton-gin, thus recommends it: "Havingexamined the model of a fire-engine invented by Mr. Morse, with pistonsof a new construction, I am of opinion that an engine may be made on thatprinciple (being more simple and much less expensive), which would have apreference to those in common use. " In the letters of the year 1817 and of several following years, even inthe letters of the young man to his _fiancée, _ many long references aremade to this pump and to the varying success in introducing it intogeneral use. I shall not, however, refer to it again, and only mention itto show the bent of Morse's mind towards invention. He spent some time in the early part of 1817 in Portsmouth, NewHampshire, meeting with success in his profession. Miss Walker was alsothere visiting friends, so we may presume that his stay was pleasant aswell as profitable. In February of that year he accompanied his _fiancée_ to Charlestown, hisparents, naturally, wishing to make the acquaintance of the young lady, and then returned to Portsmouth to finish his work there. The visit of Miss Walker to Charlestown gave great satisfaction to allconcerned. On March 4, 1817, Morse writes to his parents from Portsmouth:"I am under the agreeable necessity (shall I say) of postponing my return. . . In consequence of a _press of business_. I shall have three begunto-night; one sat yesterday (a large one), and two will sit to-day(small), and three more have it in serious contemplation. This unexpectedoccurrence will deprive me of the pleasure of seeing you this week atleast. " And on the next day, March 5, he writes: "The unexpected application ofthree sitters at a time completely stopped me. Since I wrote I have takena first sitting of a fourth (large), and a fifth (large) sits on Fridaymorning; so you see I am over head and ears in business. " As it is necessary to a clear understanding of Morse's character torealize the depth of his religious convictions, I shall quote thefollowing from this same letter of March 5:-- "I wish much to know the progress of the Revival, how many are admittednext communion, and any religious news. "I have been in the house almost ever since I came from home sifting thescheme of Universal Salvation to the bottom. What occasioned this was anoccurrence on the evening of Sunday before last. I heard the bell ringfor lecture and concluded it was at Mr. Putnam's; I accordingly salliedout to go to it, when I found that it was in the Universalistmeeting-house. "As I was out and never in a Universalist meeting, I thought, for merecuriosity, I would go in. I went into a very large meeting-house; themeeting was overflowing with people of both sexes, and the singing thefinest I have heard in Portsmouth. I was struck with the contrast it madeto Mr. Putnam's sacramental lecture; fifteen or sixteen persons thinlyscattered over the house, and the choir consisting of four or five whoseunited voice could scarcely be heard in the farthest corner of thechurch, and, when heard, so out of harmony as to set one's teeth on edge. "The reflections which this melancholy contrast caused I could not helpcommunicating to Mr. Putnam in the words of Mr. Spring's sermon, '_something must be done_. ' He agreed it was a dreadful state of societyhere but almost gave up as hopeless. I told him he never should yield apost like this to the Devil without a struggle; and, at any rate, I toldhim that the few Christians that there were (and, indeed, they are but asone to one thousand) could pray, and I thought it was high time. I toldhim I would do all in my power to assist him in any scheme where I couldbe of use. " The year 1817 was spent by the young man in executing the commissionswhich had been promised him the year before in New Hampshire. In all hisjourneyings back and forth the road invariably led through Concord, andthe pure love of the young people for each other increased as the monthsrolled by. I shall not profane the sacredness of this love by introducingany of the more intimate passages of their letters of this and of lateryears. The young girl responded readily to the religious exhortations ofher _fiancé_ and became a sincere and devout Christian. It will not be necessary to follow him in this journey, as theexperiences were but a repetition of those of the year before. He paintedmany portraits in Concord, Hanover, and other places, and finallyconcluded to venture on a trip to Charleston, South Carolina, where hiskinsman, Dr. Finley, and Mr. John A. Alston had urged him to come, assuring him good business. On January 27, 1818, he arrived in that beautiful Southern city and thusannounced his arrival to his parents: "I find myself in a new climate, the weather warm as our May. I have been introduced to a number offriends. I think my prospects are favorable. " At first, however, the promised success did not materialize, and it wasnot until after many weeks of waiting that the tide turned. But it didturn, for an excellent portrait of Dr. Finley, one of the best everpainted by Morse, aroused the enthusiasm of the Charlestonians, andorders began to pour in, so that in a few weeks he was engaged to paintone hundred and fifty portraits at sixty dollars each. Quite an advanceover the meagre fifteen dollars he had received in New England. But forsome of his more elaborate productions he received even more, as thefollowing extract from a letter of Mr. John A. Alston, dated April 7, 1818, will prove:-- "I have just received your favor of the 30th ultimo, and thank you verycordially for your goodness in consenting to take my daughter'sfull-length likeness in the manner I described, say twenty-four inches inlength. I will pay you most willingly the two hundred dollars you requirefor it, and will consider myself a gainer by the bargain. I shall expectyou to decorate this picture with the most superb landscape you arecapable of designing, and that you will produce a masterpiece ofpainting. I agree to your taking it with you to the northward to finishit. Be pleased to represent my daughter in the finest attitude you canconceive. " Mr. Alston was a generous patron and paid the young artist liberally forthe portraits of his children. In recognition of this Morse presented himwith his most ambitious painting, "The Judgment of Jupiter. " Mr. Alstonprized this picture highly during his lifetime, but after his death itwas sold and for many years was lost sight of. It was purchased longafterwards in England by an American gentleman, who, not knowing who thepainter was, gave it to a niece of Morse's, Mrs. Parmalee, and it isstill, I believe, in the possession of the family. While he was in Charleston his father wrote to him of the dangerousillness of his mother with what he called a "peripneumony, " which, fromthe description, must have been the term used in those days forpneumonia. Her life was spared, however, and she lived for many yearsafter this. In June of the year 1818, Morse returned to the North and spent thesummer in completing such portraits as he had carried with him in anunfinished state, and in painting such others as he could procurecommissions for. He planned to return to Charleston in the followingyear, but this time with a young wife to accompany him. His uncle, Dr. Finley, writing to him on June 16, says:-- "Your letter of 2d instant, conveying the pleasing intelligence of yoursafe and very short passage and happy meeting with your affectionateparents at your own home, came safe to hand in due time. . . . And soLucretia was expected and you intended to surprise her by yourunlooked-for presence. "Finley, I am afraid you will be too happy. You ought to meet a littlerub or two or you will be too much in the clouds and forget that you areamong mortals. Let me see if I cannot give you a friendly twistdownwards. "Your pictures--aye--suppose I should speak of them and what is said ofthem during your absence. I will perform the office of him who was placednear the triumphal car of the conqueror to abuse him lest he should betoo elated. "Well--'His pictures, ' say people, 'are undoubtedly good likenesses, buthe paints carelessly and in too much haste and his draperies are not welldone. He must be more attentive or he will lose his reputation. ' 'See, 'say others, 'how he flatters. ' 'Oh!' says another, 'he has not flatteredme'; etc. , etc. "By the bye, I saw old General C. C. Pinckney yesterday, and he told me, in his laughing, humorous way, that he had requested you to draw hisbrother Thomas twenty years younger than he really was, so as to be acompanion to his own when he was twenty years younger than at this time, and to flatter him as he had directed Stuart to do so to him. " Morse had now abandoned his idea of soon returning to Europe; herenounced, for the present, his ambition to devote himself to thepainting of great historical pictures, and threw himself with enthusiasminto the painting of portraits. He had an added incentive, for he wishedto marry at once, and his parents and those of his _fiancée_ agreed thatit would be wise for the young people to make the venture. Everythingseemed to presage success in life, at least in a modest way, to the youngcouple. On the 6th of October, 1818, the following notice appeared in the NewHampshire "Patriot, " of Concord: "Married in this town, October 1st, byRev. Dr. McFarland, Mr. Samuel F. B. Morse (the celebrated painter) toMiss Lucretia Walker, daughter of Charles Walker, Esq. " On the 5th of October the young man writes to his parents:-- "I was married, as I wrote you I should be, on Tuesday morning last. Weset out at nine o'clock and reached Amherst over bad roads at night. Thenext day we continued our journey through Wilton to New Ipswich, eighteenmiles over one of the worst roads I ever travelled, all uphill and downand very rocky, and no tavern on the road. We enquired at New Ipswich ourbest route to Northampton, where we intended to go to meet Mr. And Mrs. Cornelius, but we found on enquiry that there were nothing butcross-roads and these very bad, and no taverns where we could becomfortably accommodated. Our horse also was tired, so we thought our bestway was to return. Accordingly the next day we started for Concord, andarrived on Friday evening safe home again. "Lucretia wishes to spend this week with her friends, so that I shallreturn (Providence permitting) on this day week, and reach home byTuesday noon, probably to dinner. We are both well and send a great dealof love to you all. Mr. And Mrs. Walker wish me to present their bestrespects to you. We had delightful weather for travelling, and got homejust in season to escape Saturday's rain. " CHAPTER XI NOVEMBER 19, 1818--MARCH 31, 1821. Morse and his wife go to Charleston, South Carolina. --Hospitablyentertained and many portraits painted. --Congratulates Allston on hiselection to the Royal Academy. --Receives commission to paint PresidentMonroe. --Trouble in the parish at Charlestown. --Morse urges his parentsto leave and come to Charleston. --Letters of John A. Alston. --Return tothe North. --Birth of his first child. --Dr. Morse and his family decide tomove to New Haven. --Morse goes to Washington. --Paints the President underdifficulties. --Hospitalities. --Death of his grandfather. --Dr. Morseappointed Indian Commissioner. --Marriage of Morse's future mother-in-law. --Charleston again. --Continued success. --Letters to Mrs. Ball. --Liberality of Mr. Alston. --Spends the summer in New Haven. --Returns toCharleston, but meets with poor success. --Assists in founding Academy ofArts, which has but a short life. --Goes North again. The young couple decided to spend the winter in Charleston, SouthCarolina, where Morse had won a reputation the previous winter as anexcellent portrait-painter, and where much good business awaited him. The following letter was written to his parents:-- SCHOONER TONTINE, AT ANCHOR OFF CHARLESTON LIGHTHOUSE, THURSDAY, November 19, 1818, 5 o'clock P. M. We have arrived thus far on our voyage safely through the kind protectionof Providence. We have had a very rough passage attended with manydangers and more fears, but have graciously been delivered from them all. It is seven days since we left New York. If you recollect that was thetime of my last passage in this same vessel. She is an excellent vesseland has the best captain and accommodations in the trade. Lucretia was a little seasick in the roughest times, but, on the whole, bore the voyage extremely well. She seems a little downcast thisafternoon in consequence of feeling as if she was going among strangers, but I tell her she will overcome it in ten minutes' interview with Uncleand Aunt Finley and family. She is otherwise very well and sends a great deal of love to you all. Please let Mr. And Mrs. Walker know of our arrival as soon as may be. Iwill leave the remainder of this until I get up to town. We hope to go upwhen the tide changes in about an hour. FRIDAY MORNING, 20th, AT UNCLE FINLEY'S. We are safely housed under the hospitable roof of Uncle Finley, wherethey received us, as you might expect, with open arms. He has providedlodgings for us at ten dollars per week. I have not yet seen them; shallgo directly. I received a letter from Richard at Savannah; he writes in fine spiritsand feels quite delighted with the hospitable people of the South. This refers to his brother Richard Carey Morse, who was still pursuinghis theological studies. The visit of the young couple to Charleston was a most enjoyable one, andthe artist found many patrons eager to be immortalized by his brush. On December 22, 1818, he writes to his parents:-- "Lucretia is well and contented. She makes many friends and we receive asmuch attention from the hospitable Carolinians as we can possibly attendto. She is esteemed quite handsome here; she has grown quite fleshy andhealthy, and we are as happy in each other as you can possibly wish us. "There are several painters arrived from New York, but I fear nocompetition; I have as much as I can do. " As a chronicle of fair weather, favorable winds, and blue skies is apt togrow monotonous, I shall pass rapidly over the next few years, onlyselecting from the voluminous correspondence of that period a fewextracts which have more than a passing interest. On February 4, 1819, he writes to his friend and master, WashingtonAllston, who had now returned to Boston:-- "Excuse my neglect in not having written you before this according to mypromise before I left Boston. I can only plead as apology (what I knowwill gratify you) a multiplicity of business. I am painting from morningtill night and have continual applications. I have added to my list, thisseason only, to the amount of three thousand dollars; that is since Ileft you. Among them are three full lengths to be finished at the North, I hope in Boston, where I shall once more enjoy your criticisms. "I am exerting my utmost to improve; every picture I try to make my best, and in the evening I draw two hours from the antique as I did in London;for I ought to inform you that I fortunately found a fine 'Venus deMedicis' without a blemish, imported from Paris sometime since by agentleman of this city who wished to dispose of it; also a young Apollowhich was so broken that he gave it to me, saying it was useless. I have, however, after a great deal of trouble, put it together entirely, andthese two figures, with some fragments, --hands, feet, etc. , --make a goodacademy. Mr. Fraser, Mr. Cogdell, Mr. Fisher, of Boston, and myself meethere of an evening to improve ourselves. I feel as much enthusiasm asever in my art and love it more than ever. A few years, at the rate I amnow going on, will place me independent of public patronage. "Thus much for myself, for you told me in one of your letters from Londonthat I must be more of an egotist or you should be less of one in yourletters to me, which I should greatly regret. "And now, permit me, my dear sir, to congratulate you on your election tothe Royal Academy. I know you will believe me when I say I jumped for joywhen I heard it. Though it cannot add to your merit, yet it will extendthe knowledge of it, especially in our own country, where we are stillinfluenced by foreign opinion, and more justly, perhaps, in regard totaste in the fine arts than in any other thing. " On March 1, 1819, the Common Council of Charleston passed the followingresolution:-- "Resolved unanimously that His Honor the Intendant be requested tosolicit James Monroe, President of the United States, to permit afull-length likeness to be taken for the City of Charleston, and that Mr. Morse be requested to take all necessary measures for executing the saidlikeness on the visit of the President to this city. "Resolved unanimously that the sum of seven hundred and fifty dollars beappropriated for this purpose. "Extract from the minutes. "WILLIAM ROACH, JR. , "Clerk of Council. " This portrait of President Monroe was completed later on and still hangsin the City Hall of Charleston. I shall have occasion to refer to itagain. Morse, in a letter to his parents of March 26, 1819, says:-- "Two of your letters have been lately received detailing the state of theparish and church. I cannot say I was surprised, for it is what might beexpected from Charlestown people. . . . As to returning home in the way Imentioned mama need not be at all uneasy on that score. It is necessary Ishould visit Washington, as the President will stay so short a time herethat I cannot complete the head unless I see him in Washington. . . . Now asto the parish and church business, I hope all things will turn out rightyet, and I can't help wishing that nothing may occur to keep you anylonger in that nest of vipers and conspirators. I think with Edwardsdecidedly that, on mama's account alone, you should leave a place whichis full of the most unpleasant associations to all the family, and retireto some place of quiet to enjoy your old age. "Why not come to Charleston? Here is a fine place for usefulness, apleasant climate especially for persons advanced in life, and yourchildren here; for I think seriously of settling in Charleston. Lucretiais willing, and I think it will be much for my advantage to remainthrough the year. Richard can find a place here if he will, and Edwardscan come on and be _Bishop_ or _President_ or _Professor_ in some of thecolleges (for I can't think of him in a less character) after he hasgraduated. "I wish seriously you would think of this. Your friends here wouldgreatly rejoice and an opening could be found, I have no doubt. Christians want their hands strengthened, and a veteran soldier, likepapa, might be of great service here in the infancy of the _UnitarianHydra_, who finds a population too well adapted to receive and cherishits easy and fascinating tenets. " All this refers to a movement organized by the enemies of Dr. Morse tooust him from his parish in Charlestown. He was a militant fighter fororthodoxy and an uncompromising foe to Unitarianism, which was graduallyobtaining the ascendancy in and near Boston. The movement was finallysuccessful, as we shall see later, but they did not go as far from theirold haunts as Charleston. I shall not attempt to argue the rights and wrongs of the case, whichseem to have been rather complicated, for Dr. Morse, more than a yearafter this, in writing to a friend says: "The events of the last fifteenmonths are still involved in impenetrable mystery, which I doubt not willbe unravelled in due time. " The winter and spring of 1819 were spent by the young couple bothpleasantly and profitably in Charleston. The best society of thatcharming city opened its arms to them and orders flowed in in a steadystream. Mr. John A. Alston was a most generous patron, ordering manyportraits of his children and friends, and sometimes insisting on payingthe young man even more than the price agreed upon. In a letter to Morse he says: "Which of my friends was it who latelyobserved to you that I had a picture mania? You made, I understand, amost excellent reply, 'You wished I would come to town, then, and bite adozen. ' Indeed, my very good sir, was it in my power to excite in them ajust admiration of your talents, I would readily come to town and bitethe whole community. " And in another letter of April 10, 1819, Mr. Alston says: "Your portraitof my daughter was left in Georgetown [South Carolina], at the house of afriend; nearly all of the citizens have seen it, and I really think itwill occasion you some applications. . . . Every one thought himself atliberty to make remarks. Some declared it to be a good likeness, whileothers insisted it was not so, and several who made such remarks, I_knew_ had _never_ seen my daughter. At last a rich Jew gentlemanobserved, 'it was the _richest_ piece of painting he had ever seen. ' Thisbeing so much in character that I assure you, sir, I could contain myselfno longer, which, spreading among the audience, occasioned not anunpleasant moment. " Morse and his young wife returned to the North in the early summer of1819, and spent the summer and fall with his parents in Charlestown. Theyoung man occupied himself with the completion of the portraits which hehad brought with him from the South, and his wife was busied withpreparations for the event which is thus recorded in a letter of Dr. Morse's to his son Sidney Edwards at Andover: "Since I have been writingthe above, Lucretia has presented us with a fine granddaughter and isdoing well. The event has filled us with joy and gratitude. " The child was christened Susan Walker Morse. In the mean time thedistressing news had come from Charleston of the sudden death of Dr. Finley, to whose kindly affection and influence Morse owed much of thepleasure and success of his several visits to Charleston. Affairs had come to a crisis in the parish at Charlestown, and Dr. Morsedecided to resign and planned to move to New Haven, Connecticut, with hisfamily in the following spring. The necessity for pursuing his profession in the most profitable fieldcompelled Morse to return to Charleston by way of Washington in November, and this time he had to go alone, much against his inclinations. He writes to his mother from New York on November 28, 1819: "I missLucretia and little Susan more than you can think, and I shall long tohave us all together at New Haven in the spring. " His object in going to Washington was to paint the portrait of thePresident, and of this he says in a letter: "I began on Monday to paintthe President and have almost completed the head. I am thus far pleasedwith it, but I find it very perplexing, for he cannot sit more than tenor twenty minutes at a time, so that the moment I feel engaged he iscalled away again. I set my palette to-day at ten o'clock and waiteduntil four o'clock this afternoon before he came in. He then sat tenminutes and we were called to dinner. Is not this trying to one'spatience?" "_December 17, 1819. _ I have been here nearly a fortnight. I commencedthe President's portrait on Monday and shall finish it to-morrow. I havesucceeded to my satisfaction, and, what is better, to the satisfaction ofhimself and family; so much so that one of his daughters wishes me tocopy the head for her. They all say that mine is the best that has beentaken of him. The daughter told me (she said as a secret) that her fatherwas delighted with it, and said it was the only one that in his opinionlooked like him; and this, too, with Stuart's in the room. "The President has been very kind and hospitable to me; I have dined withhim three times and taken tea as often; he and his family have been verysociable and unreserved. I have painted him at his house, next room tohis cabinet, so that when he had a moment to spare he would come in tome. "Wednesday evening Mrs. Monroe held a drawing-room. I attended and mademy bow. She was splendidly and tastily dressed. The drawing-room andsuite of rooms at the President's are furnished and decorated in the mostsplendid manner; some think too much so, but I do not. Something ofsplendor is certainly proper about the Chief Magistrate for the credit ofthe nation. Plainness can be carried to an extreme, and in nationalbuildings and establishments it will, with good reason, be styledmeanness. " "_December 23, 1819. _ It is obviously for my interest to hasten toCharleston, as I shall there be immediately at work, and this is the morenecessary as there is a fresh gang of adventurers in the brush line goneto Charleston before me. " A short while after this he received the news of the death of hisgrandfather, Jedediah Morse, at Woodstock, Connecticut, on December 29, aged ninety-four years. Mr. Prime says of him: "He was a strong man inbody and mind, an able and upright magistrate, for eighteen years one ofthe selectmen of the town, twenty-seven years town clerk and treasurer, fifteen years a member of the Colonial and State Legislature, and aprominent, honored, and useful member and officer of the church. " In January of the year 1820, Dr. Morse, realizing that it would be forthe best interests of all concerned to relinquish his pastorate atCharlestown, turned his active brain in another direction, and resolvedto carry out a plan which he had long contemplated. This was to securefrom the Government at Washington an appointment as commissioner to theIndians on the borders of the United States of those early days, in orderto enquire into their condition with a view to their moral and physicalbetterment. To this end he journeyed to Washington and laid his projectbefore the President and the Secretary of War, John C. Calhoun. He wasmost courteously entertained by these gentlemen and received theappointment. In the following spring with his son Richard he travelled through thenorthwestern frontiers of the United States, and gained much valuableinformation which he laid before the Government. As he was a man ofdelicate constitution, we cannot but admire his indomitable spirit inever devising new projects of usefulness to his fellow men. It wasimpossible for him to remain idle. But it is not within the scope of this work to follow him on hisjourneys, although his letters of that period make interesting reading. While he was in Washington his wife, writing to him on January 27, 1820, says: "Mrs. Salisbury and Abby drank tea with us day before yesterday. They told us that Catherine Breese was married to a lieutenant in thearmy. This must have been a very sudden thing, and I should suppose verygrievous to Arthur. " Little did the good lady think as she penned these words that, many yearsafterwards, her beloved eldest son would take as his second wife adaughter of this union. Why this marriage should have been "grievous" tothe father, Arthur Breese, I do not know, unless all army officers wereclassed among the ungodly by the very pious of those days. As a matter offact, Lieutenant, afterwards Captain, Griswold was a most gallantgentleman. In the mean time Finley Morse had reached Charleston in safety after atedious journey of many days by stage from Washington, and was busilyemployed in painting. On February 4, 1820, he writes to his mother:-- "I received your good letter of the 19th and 22d ult. , and thank you forit. I wish I had time to give you a narrative of my journey as you wish, but you know '_time is money_, ' and we must '_make hay while the sunshines_, ' and '_a penny saved is a penny got_, " and '_least said soonestmended_, ' and a good many other wise sayings which would be quite pat, but I can't think of them. "The fact is I have scarcely time to say or write a word. I am busilyemployed in getting the cash, or else Ned's almanac for March willforetell falsely. "I am doing well, although the city fairly swarms with painters. I am theonly one that has as much as he can do; all the rest are complaining. Iwish I could divide with some of them, very clever men who have familiesto support, and can get nothing to do. . . . I feel rejoiced that thingshave come to such a crisis in Charlestown that our family will bereleased from that region of trouble so soon. "Keep up your spirits, mother, the Lord will show you good days accordingto those in which you have seen evil. . . . "I am glad Lucretia and the dear little Susan intend meeting me at NewHaven. I think this by far the best plan; it will save me a great deal oftime, which, as I said before, is money. "I shall have to spend some time in New Haven getting settled, and I wishto commence painting as soon as possible, for I have more than a summer'swork before me in the President's portrait and Mrs. Ball's. "As soon as the cash comes in, mother, it shall all be remitted exceptwhat I immediately want. You may depend upon it that nothing shall beleft undone on my part to help you and the rest of us from that hole ofvipers. "I think it very probable I shall return by the middle of May; it willdepend much on circumstances, however. I wish very much to be with mydear wife and daughter. I must contrive to bring them with me next seasonto Charleston, though it may be more expensive, yet I do not think thatshould be a consideration. I think that a man should be separated fromhis family but very seldom, and then under cases of absolute necessity, as I consider the case to be at present with me: that is, I think theyshould not be separated for any length of time. If I know my owndisposition I am of a domestic habit, formed to this habit, probably, bythe circumstances that have been so peculiar to our family inCharlestown. I by no means regret having such a habit if it can beproperly regulated; I think it may be carried to excess, and shut us fromthe opportunities of doing good by mixing with our fellow men. " This pronouncement was very characteristic of the man. He was always, allthrough his long life, happiest when at home surrounded by all hisfamily, and yet he never shirked the duty of absenting himself from home, even for a prolonged period, when by so doing he could accomplish somegreat or good work. That a portrait-painter's lot is not always a happy one may beillustrated by the following extracts from letters of Morse to the Mrs. Ball whom he mentions in the foregoing letter to his mother, and whoseems to have been a most capricious person, insisting on continualalterations, and one day pleased and the next almost insulting in hercensure:-- MADAM, --Supposing that I was dealing not only with a woman of honor, but, from her professions, with a Christian, I ventured in my note of the 18thinst. , to make an appeal to your conscience in support of the justness ofmy demand of the four hundred dollars still due from you for yourportrait. By your last note I find you are disposed to take an advantageof that circumstance of which I did not suppose you capable. My sense ofthe justness of my demand was so strong, as will appear from the wholetenor of that note, that I venture this appeal, not imagining that anyperson of honor, of the least spark of generous feeling, and moreespecially of Christian principle, could understand anything more thanthe enforcing my claim by an appeal to that principle which I knew shouldbe the strongest in a real Christian. Whilst, however, you have chosen to put a different construction on thispart of the note, and supposed that I left you to say whether you wouldpay me anything or nothing, you have (doubtless unconsciously) shown thatyour conscience has decided in favor of the whole amount which is my due, and which I can never voluntarily relinquish. You affirm in the first part of your note that, after due consideration, you think the real value of the picture is four hundred dollars (withoutthe frame), yet, had your crop been good, your conscience would haveadjudged me the remaining four hundred dollars without hesitation; andagain (if your crop should be good) you could pay me the four hundreddollars next season. Must I understand from this, madam, that the goodness or badness of yourcrop is the scale on which your conscience measures your obligation topay a just debt, and that it contracts or expands as your crop increasesor diminishes? Pardon me, madam, if I say that this appears to be thecase from your letter. My wish throughout this whole business has been to accommodate the timeand terms of payment as much to your convenience as I could consistentlywith my duty to my family and myself. As a proof of this you need onlyadvert to my note of yesterday, in which I inform you that I am payinginterest on money borrowed for the use of my family which your debt, ifit had been promptly paid, would have prevented. And in another letter he says:-- "I completed your picture in the summer with two others which have given, as far as I can learn, entire satisfaction. Yours was painted with thesame attention and with the same ability as the others, and admired as apicture, after it was finished, as much by some as the others, and moreby many. "Among these latter were the celebrated Colonel Trumbull and Vanderlyn, painters of New York. . . . You cannot but recollect, madam, that when youyourself with your children visited it, not withstanding you expressedyourself before them in terms so strong against it and so wounding to myfeelings, yet all your children dissented from you, the youngest sayingit was 'mama, ' and the eldest, 'I am sure, mother, it is very likeyou. '. . . "Your picture, from the day I commenced it, has been the source of one ofmy greatest trials, and, if it has taught me in any degree patience andforbearance, I shall have abundant reason to be thankful for theaffliction. " In the end he consented to take less than had been agreed upon in orderto close the incident. As a happy contrast to this episode we have the following quotation froma letter to his wife written on February 17, 1820:-- "Did I tell you in my last that Colonel Alston insisted on giving me_two hundred dollars_ more than I asked for the picture of little Sally, and a commission to paint her again full length next season, smaller thanthe last and larger than the first portrait, for which I shall receivefour hundred dollars? He intimates also that I am to paint a pictureannually for him. Is not he a strange man? (as people say here). I wishsome more of the great fortunes in this part of the country would be asstrange and encourage other artists who are men of genius and starvingfor want of employment. " Morse returned to the North in the spring of 1820 and joined his motherand his wife and daughter in New Haven, where they had preceded him andwhere they were comfortably and agreeably settled, as will appear fromthe following sentence in a letter to his good friend and mentor, HenryBromfield, of London, dated August, 1820: "You will perceive by theheading of this letter that I am in New Haven. My father and his familyhave left Charlestown, Massachusetts, and are settled in this place. Myown family also, consisting of wife and daughter, are pleasantly settledin this delightful spot. I have built me a fine painting-room attached tomy house in which I paint my large pictures in the summer, and in thewinter I migrate to Charleston, South Carolina, where I have commissionssufficient to employ me for some years to come. " He returned to Charleston in the fall of 1820 and was again compelled togo alone. He writes to his wife on December 27: "I feel the separationthis time more than ever, and I felt the other day, when I saw thesteamship start for New York, that I had almost a mind to return in her. " From this sentence we learn that the slow schooner of the preceding yearshad been supplanted by the more rapid steamship, but that is, unfortunately, all he has to say of this great step forward in humanprogress. Further on in this same letter he says: "I am occupied fully so that Ihave no reason to complain. I have not a _press_ like the first season orlike the last, but still I can say I am all the time employed. . . . MyPresident pleases very much; I have heard no dissatisfaction expressed. It is placed in the great Hall in a fine light and place. . . . Mrs. Ballwants some alterations, that is to say every five minutes she would likeit to be different. She is the most unreasonable of all mortals;derangement is her only apology. I can't tell you all in a letter, mustwait till I see you. I shall get the rest of the cash from her shortly. " Just at this time the wave of prosperity on which the young man had solong floated, began to subside, for he writes to his wife on January 28, 1821:-- "I wish I could write encouragingly as to my professional pursuits, but Icannot. Notwithstanding the diminished price and the increase of exertionto please, and although I am conscious of painting much better portraitsthan formerly (which, indeed, stands to reason if I make continualexertion to improve), yet with all I receive no new commissions, cold andprocrastinating answers from those to whom I write and who had put theirnames on my list. I give less satisfaction to those whom I have painted;I receive less attention also from some of those who formerly paid memuch attention, and none at all from most. " But with his usual hopefulness he says later on in this letter:-- "Why should I expect my sky to be perpetually unclouded, my sun to benever obscured? I have thus far enjoyed more of the sunshine ofprosperity than most of my fellow men. 'Shall I receive good at the handsof the Lord and shall I not also receive evil?'" In this letter, a very long one, he suggests the establishment of anacademy or school of painting in New Haven, so that he may be enabled tolive at home with his family, and find time to paint some of the greathistorical works which he still longed to do. He also tells of theformation of such an academy in Charleston:-- "Since writing this there has been formed here an Academy of Arts to beerected immediately. J. R. Poinsett, Esq. , is President, and six otherswith myself are chosen Directors. What this is going to lead to I don'tknow. I heard Mr. Cogdell say that it was intended to have lectures read, among other things. I feel not very sanguine as to its success, still Ishall do all in my power to help it on as long as I am here. " His forebodings seem to have been justified, for Mr. John S. Cogdell, asculptor, thus writes of it in later years to Mr. Dunlap:-- "The Legislature granted a charter, but, my good sir, as they possessedno powers under the constitution to confer taste or talent, and possessednone of those feelings which prompt to patronage, they gave none to theinfant academy. . . . The institution was allowed from apathy and oppositionto die; but Mr. Poinsett and myself with a few others have purchased, with a hope of reviving, the establishment. " Referring to this academy the wife in New Haven, in a letter of February25, 1821, says: "Mr. Silliman says he is not much pleased to hear thatthey have an academy for painting in Charleston. He is afraid they willdecoy you there. " On March 11, 1821, Morse answers thus: "Tell Mr. Silliman I have stronger_magnets_ at New Haven than any academy can have, and, while that is thecase, I cannot be decoyed permanently from home. " I wonder if he used the word "magnets" advisedly, for it was withProfessor Silliman that he at that time pursued the studies in physics, including electricity, which had so interested him while in college, andit was largely due to the familiarity with the subject which he thenacquired that he was, in later years, enabled successfully to perfect hisinvention. On the 12th of March, 1821, another daughter was born to the youngcouple, and was named Elizabeth Ann after her paternal grandmother. Thechild lived but a few days, however, much to the grief of her parents andgrandparents. Charleston had now given all she had to give to the young painter, and hepacked his belongings to return home with feelings both of joy and ofregret. He was overjoyed at the prospect of so soon seeing his dearlyloved wife and daughter, and his parents and brothers; at the same timehe had met with great hospitality in Charleston; had made many firmfriends; had impressed himself strongly on the life of the city, as healways did wherever he went, and had met with most gratifying success inhis profession. A partial list of the portraits painted while he wasthere gives the names of fifty-five persons, and, as the prices receivedare appended, we learn that he received over four thousand dollars fromhis patrons for these portraits alone. On March 31, 1821, he joyfully announces his homecoming: "I just drop youa hasty line to say that, in all probability, your husband will be withyou as soon, if not sooner than this letter. I am entirely clear of allsitters, having outstayed my last application; have been engaged infinishing off and packing up for two days past and contemplate embarkingby the middle or end of the coming week in the steamship for New York. You must not be surprised, therefore, to see me soon after this reachesyou; still don't be disappointed if I am a little longer, as the windsmost prevalent at this season are head winds in going to the North. I ambusy in collecting my dues and paying my debts. " CHAPTER XII MAY 23, 1821--DECEMBER 17, 1824 Accompanies Mr. Silliman to the Berkshires. --Takes his wife and daughterto Concord, New Hampshire. --Writes to his wife from Boston about abonnet. --Goes to Washington, D. C. --Paints large picture of House ofRepresentatives. --Artistic but not financial success. --Donates fivehundred dollars to Yale. --Letter from Mr. DeForest. --New York"Observer. "--Discouragements. --First son born. --Invents marble-carvingmachine. --Goes to Albany. --Stephen Van Rensselaer. --Slight encouragementin Albany. --Longing for a home. --Goes to New York. --Portrait ofChancellor Kent. --Appointed attaché to Legation to Mexico. --High hopes. --Takes affecting leave of his family. --Rough journey to Washington. --Expedition to Mexico indefinitely postponed. --Returns North. --Settles inNew York. --Fairly prosperous. Much as Morse longed for a permanent home, where he could find continuousemployment while surrounded by those he loved, it was not until manyyears afterwards and under totally different circumstances that his dreamwas realized. For the present the necessity of earning money for thesupport of his young family and for the assistance of his ageing fatherand mother drove him continually forth to new fields, and on May 23, 1821, which must have been only a few weeks after his return from theSouth, he writes to his wife from Pittsfield, Massachusetts:-- "We are thus far on our tour safe and sound. Mr. Silliman's health isvery perceptibly better already. Last night we lodged at Litchfield; Mr. Silliman had an excellent night and is in fine spirits. "At Litchfield I called on Judge Reeves and sat a little while. . . . Icalled at Mr. Beecher's with Mr. Silliman and Judge Gould; no one athome. Called with Mr. Silliman at Dr. Shelden's, and stayed a fewmoments; sat a few moments also at Judge Gould's. "I was much pleased with the exterior appearance of Litchfield; saw at adistance Edwards's pickerel pond. "We left at five this morning, breakfasted at Norfolk, dined atStockbridge. We there left the stage and have hired a wagon to go on toMiddlebury, Vermont, at our leisure. We lodge here to-night and shallprobably reach Bennington, Vermont, to-morrow night. "I have made one slight pencil sketch of the Hoosac Mountain. AtStockbridge we visited the marble quarries, and to-morrow at Lanesboroughshall visit the quarries of fine white marble there. "I am much delighted with my excursion thus far. To travel with such acompanion as Mr. Silliman I consider as highly advantageous as well asgratifying. " This is all the record I have of this particular trip. The Mr. Beecherreferred to was the father of Henry Ward Beecher. Later in the summer he accompanied his wife and little daughter toConcord, New Hampshire, and left them there with her father and mother. Writing to her from Boston on his way back to New Haven, he says incharacteristically masculine fashion:-- "I have talked with Aunt Bartlett about getting you a bonnet. She saysthat it is no time to get a fashionable winter bonnet in Boston now, andthat it would be much better if you could get it in New York, as theBostonians get their fashions from New York and, of course, much laterthan we should in New Haven. She thinks that white is better than blue, etc. , etc. , etc. , which she can explain to you much better than I can. She is willing, however, to get you any you wish if you still request it. She thinks, if you cannot wait for the new fashion, that your blackbonnet put into proper shape with black plumes would be as _tasty_ andfashionable as any you could procure. I think so, too. You had betterwrite Aunt particularly about it. " While Morse had conscientiously tried to put the best of himself into thepainting of portraits, and had succeeded better than he himself knew, hestill longed for wider fields, and in November, 1821, he went toWashington, D. C. , to begin a work which he for some time had had incontemplation, and which he now felt justified in undertaking. This wasto be a large painting of the House of Representatives with manyportraits of the members. The idea was well received at Washington and heobtained the use of one of the rooms at the Capitol for a studio, makingit easy for the members to sit for him. It could not have been all plainsailing, however, for his wife says to him in a letter of December 28, 1821: "Knowing that perseverance is a trait in your character, we do notany of us feel surprised to hear you have overcome so many obstacles. Youhave undertaken a great work. . . . Every one thinks it must be a verypopular subject and that you will make a splendid picture of it. " Writing to his wife he says:-- "I am up at daylight, have my breakfast and prayers over and commence thelabors of the day long before the workmen are called to work on theCapitol by the bell. This I continue unremittingly till one o'clock, whenI dine in about fifteen minutes and then pursue my labors until tea, which scarcely interrupts me, as I often have my cup of tea in one handand my pencil in the other. Between ten and eleven o'clock I retire torest. This has been my course every day (Sundays, of course, excepted)since I have been here, making about fourteen hours' study out of thetwenty-four. "This you will say is too hard, and that I shall injure my health. I cansay that I never enjoyed better health, and my body, by the simple fare Ilive on, is disciplined to this course. As it will not be necessary tocontinue long so assiduously I shall not fail to pursue it till the workis done. "I receive every possible facility from all about the Capitol. Thedoorkeeper, a venerable man, has offered to light the great chandelierexpressly for me to take my sketches in the evening for two hourstogether, for I shall have it a candlelight effect, when the room, already very splendid, will appear ten times more so. " On the 2d of January, 1822, he writes: "I have commenced to-day takingthe likenesses of the members. I find them not only willing to sit, butapparently esteeming it an honor. I shall take seventy of them andperhaps more; all if possible. I find the picture is becoming the subjectof conversation, and every day gives me greater encouragement. I shallpaint it on part of the great canvas when I return home. It will beeleven feet by seven and a half feet. . . . It will take me until Octobernext to complete it. " The room which he painted was then the Hall of Representatives, but isnow Statuary Hall. As a work of art the painting is excellent and ishighly esteemed by artists of the present day. It contains eightyportraits. His high expectations of gaining much profit from its exhibition and ofselling it for a large sum were, however, doomed to disappointment. Itdid not attract the public attention which he had anticipated and itproved a financial loss to him. It was finally sold to an Englishman, whotook it across the ocean, and it was lost sight of until, aftertwenty-five years, it was found by an artist friend, Mr. F. W. Edmonds, inNew York, where it had been sent from London. It was in a more or lessdamaged condition, but was restored by Morse. It eventually became theproperty of the late Daniel Huntington, who loaned it to the CorcoranGallery of Art in Washington, where it now hangs. [1] [Footnote 1: This painting has recently been purchased by the Trustees ofthe Corcoran Gallery. ] I find no more letters of special interest of the year 1822, but Mr. Prime has this to record: "In the winter of 1822, notwithstanding thegreat expenses to which Mr. Morse had been subjected in producing thispicture, and before he had realized anything from its exhibition, he madea donation of five hundred dollars to the library fund of Yale College;probably the largest donation in proportion to the means of the giverwhich that institution ever received. " The corporation, by vote, presented the thanks of the board in thefollowing letter:-- YALE COLLEGE, December 4th, 1822. DEAR SIR, --I am directed by the corporation of this college to present toyou the thanks of the board for your subscription of five hundred dollarsfor the enlargement of the library. Should this example of liberality begenerally imitated by the friends of the institution, we should soon havea library creditable to the college and invaluable to men of literary andphilosophic research. With respectful and grateful acknowledgment, Your obedient servant, JEREMAIAH DAY. While he was at home in New Haven in the early part of 1823 he soughtorders for portraits, and that he was successful in at least one instanceis evidenced by the following letter:-- Mr. D. C. DeForest's compliments to Mr. Morse. Mr. DeForest desires tohave his portrait taken such as it would have been six or eight yearsago, making the necessary calculation for it, and at the same time makingit a good likeness in all other respects. This reason is not to make himself younger, but to appear to children andgrandchildren more suitably matched as to age with their mother andgrandmother. If Mr. Morse is at leisure and disposed to undertake this work, he willplease prepare his canvas and let me know when he is ready for myattendance. NEW HAVEN, 30th March, 1823. Whether Morse succeeded to the satisfaction of Mr. DeForest does notappear from the correspondence, but both this portrait and that of Mrs. DeForest now hang in the galleries of the Yale School of the Fine Arts, and are here reproduced so that the reader may judge for himself. [Illustration: MR. D. C. DE FOREST MRS. D. C. DE FORESTFrom "Thistle Prints. " Copyright Detroit Publishing Co. From a painting by Morse now in the Gallery of the Yale School of theFine Arts] On the 17th of May, 1828, the first number of the New York "Observer" waspublished. While being a religious newspaper the prospectus says it"contains also miscellaneous articles and summaries of news andinformation on every subject in which the community is interested. " This paper was founded and edited by the two brothers Sidney E. AndRichard C. Morse, who had abandoned respectively the law and theministry. It was very successful, and became at one time a power in thecommunity and is still in existence. The editorial offices were first established at 50 Wall Street, but laterthe brothers bought a lot and erected a building at the corner of Nassauand Beekman Streets, and that edifice had an important connection withthe invention of the telegraph. On the same site now stands the MorseBuilding, a pioneer sky-scraper now sadly dwarfed by its giganticneighbors. The year 1823 was one of mingled discouragement and hope. Compelled toabsent himself from home for long periods in search of work, alwayshoping that in some place he would find enough to do to warrant hisbringing his family and making for them a permanent home, his lettersreflect his varying moods, but always with the underlying conviction thatProvidence will yet order all things for the best. The letters of theyoung wife are pathetic in their expressions of loneliness during theabsence of her husband, and yet of forced cheerfulness and submission tothe will of God. On the 17th of March, 1823, another child was born, a son, who was namedfor his maternal grandfather, Charles Walker. The child was at first verydelicate, and this added to the anxieties of the fond mother and father, but he soon outgrew his childish ailments. Morse's active mind was ever bent on invention, and in this year hedevised and sought to patent a machine for carving marble statues, "perfect copies of any model. " He had great hopes of pecuniary profitfrom this invention and it is mentioned many times in the letters of thisand the following year, but he found, on enquiry, that it was notpatentable, as it would have been an infringement on the machine ofThomas Blanchard which was patented in 1820. So once more were his hopes of independence blasted, as they had been inthe case of the pump and fire-engine. He longed, like all artists, to befree from the petty cares and humiliations of the struggle for existence, free to give full rein to his lofty aspirations, secure in the confidencethat those he loved were well provided for; but, like most othergeniuses, he was compelled to drink still deeper of the bitter cup, todrain it to the very dregs. In the month of August, 1823, he went to Albany, hoping through hisacquaintance with the Patroon, Stephen Van Rensselaer, to establishhimself there. He painted the portrait of the Patroon, confident that, byits exhibition, he would secure other orders. In a letter to his wife hesays:-- "I have found lodgings--a large front room on the second story, twenty-five by eighteen feet, and twelve feet high--a fine room forpainting, with a neat little bedroom, and every convenience, and board, all for six dollars a week, which I think is very reasonable. My landlordis an elderly Irish gentleman with three daughters, once in independentcircumstances but now reduced. Everything bears the appearance ofold-fashioned gentility which you know I always liked. Everything is neatand clean and genteel. . . . Bishop Hobart and a great many acquaintanceswere on board of the boat upon which I came up to this city. "I can form no idea as yet of the prospect of success in my professionhere. If I get enough to employ me I shall go no farther; if not, I mayvisit some of the smaller towns in the interior of the State. I awaitwith some anxiety the result of experiments with my machine. I hope theinvention may enable me to remain at home. " "_16th of August. _ I have not as yet received any application for aportrait. Many tell me I have come at the wrong time--the same tune thathas been rung in my ears so long. I hope the right tune will come by andby. The winter, it is said, is the proper season, but, as it is better inthe South at that season and it will be more profitable to be there, Ishall give Albany a thorough trial and do my best. If I should not findenough to employ me here, I think I shall return to New York and settlethere. This I had rather not do at present, but it may be the best that Ican do. Roaming becomes more and more irksome. Imperious necessity alonedrives me to this course. Don't think by this I am faint-hearted; I shallpersevere in this course, painful as is the separation from my family, until Providence clearly points out my duty to return. " "_August 22. _ I have something to do. I have one portrait in progress andthe promise of more. One hundred dollars will pay all my expenses herefor three months, so that the two I am now painting will clear me in thatrespect and all that comes after will be clear gain. I am, therefore, easier in my mind as to this. The portrait I am now painting is JudgeMoss Kent, brother of the Chancellor. He says that I shall paint theChancellor when he returns to Albany, and his niece also, and from theseparticulars you may infer that I shall be here for some little timelonger, just so long as my good prospects continue; but, should theyfail, I am determined to try New York City, and sit down there in myprofession permanently. I believe I have now attained sufficientproficiency to venture there. My progress may be slow at first, but Ibelieve it will be sure. I do not like going South and I have given upthe idea of New Orleans or any Southern city, at least for the present. Circumstances may vary this determination, but I think a settlement inNew York is more feasible now than ever before. I shall be near you andhome in cases of emergency, and in the summer and sickly season can visityou at New Haven, while you can do the same to me in New York until welive again at New Haven altogether. I leave out of this calculation the_machine for sculpture_. If that should entirely succeed, my plans wouldbe materially varied, but I speak of my present plan as if that hadfailed. " "_August 24. _ I finished Mr. Kent's picture yesterday and received themoney for it. . . . Mr. Kent is very polite to me, and has introduced me toa number of persons and families, among others to the Kanes--very wealthypeople--to Governor Yates, etc. Mr. Clinton's son called on me andinvited me to their house. . . . I have been introduced to Señor Rocafuerto, the Spaniard who made so excellent a speech before the Bible Society lastMay. He is a very handsome man, very intelligent, full of wit andvivacity. He is a great favorite with the ladies and is a man of wealthand a zealous patriot, studying our manners, customs, and improvements, with a view of benefiting his own countrymen in Peru. . . . I long to bewith you again and to see you all at _home_. I fear I dote on _home_ toomuch, but mine is such an uncommon home, such a delightful home, that Icannot but feel strongly my privation of its pleasures. " "_August 27. _ My last two letters have held out to you some encouragingprospects of success here, but now they seem darkened again. I have hadnothing to do this week thus far but to wait patiently. I have advertisedin both of the city papers that I should remain one week to receiveapplications, but as yet it has produced no effect. . . . "Chancellor Kent is out of town and I was told yesterday would not be inuntil the end of next month. If I should have nothing to do in the meantime it is hardly worth while to stay solely for that. Many have beentalking of having their portraits painted, but there it has thus farended. I feel a little perplexed to know what to do. I find nothing inAlbany which can profitably employ my leisure hours. If there were anypictures or statuary where I could sketch and draw, it would bedifferent. . . . I have visited several families who have been very kind tome, for which I am thankful. . . . "I shall leave Albany and return to New York a week from to-day if thereis no change in my prospects. . . . The more I think of making a push at NewYork as a permanent place of residence in my profession, the more properit seems that it should be pretty soon. There is now no rival that Ishould fear; a few more years may produce one that would be hard toovercome. New York does not yet feel the influx of wealth from theWestern canal but in a year or two she will feel it, and it will beadvantageous to me to be previously identified among her citizens as apainter. "It requires some little time to become known in such a city as New York. Colonel T---- is growing old, too, and there is no artist of educationsufficiently prominent to take his place as President of the Academy ofArts. By becoming more known to the New York public, and exerting mytalents to discover the best methods of promoting the arts and writingabout them, I may possibly be promoted to his place, where I could have abetter opportunity of doing _something for the arts in our country_, theobject at which I aim. " "_September 3. _ I have nothing to do and shall pack up on the morrow forNew York unless appearances change again. I have not had full employmentsince I have been in Albany and I feel miserable in doing nothing. Ishall set out on Friday, and perhaps may go to New Haven for a day or twoto look at you all. " He did manage to pay a short visit to his home, and then he started forNew York by boat, but was driven by a storm into Black Rock Harbor andcontinued his journey from there by land. Writing home the day after hisarrival he says: "I have obtained a place to board at friend Coolidge'sat two dollars and twenty-five cents a week, and have taken for my studioa fine room in Broadway opposite Trinity Churchyard, for which I am topay six dollars and fifty cents a week, being fifty cents less than Iexpected to pay. " There has been some increase in the rental price of rooms on Broadwayopposite Trinity Churchyard since that day. Further on he says:-- "I shall go to work in a few days vigorously. It is a half mile from myroom to the place where I board, so that I am obliged to walk more thanthree miles every day. It is good exercise for me and I feel better forit. I sleep in my room on the floor and put my bed out of sight duringthe day, as at Washington. I feel in the spirit of 'buckling down to it, 'and am determined to paint and study with all my might this winter. " The loving wife is distressed at the idea of his sleeping on the floor, and thus expresses herself in a letter which is dated, curiously enough, November 31: "You know, dear Finley, I have always set my face as a flintand have borne my testimony against your sleeping on the floor. Indeed, it makes my heart ache, when I go to bed in my comfortable chamber, tothink of my dear husband sleeping without a bedstead. Your mother saysshe sent one to Richard, which he has since told her was unnecessary ashe used a settee, and which you can get of him. But, if it is in use, doget one or I shall take no comfort. " Soon after his arrival in New York he began the portrait of ChancellorKent, and writing of him he says:-- "He is not a good sitter; he scarcely presents the same view twice; he isvery impatient and you well know that I cannot paint an impatient person;I must have my mind at ease or I cannot paint. "I have no more applications as yet, but it is not time to expect them. All the artists are complaining, and there are many of them, and they areall poor. The arts are as low as they can be. It is no better at theSouth, and all the accounts of the arts or artists are of the mostdiscouraging nature. " The portrait of the Chancellor seems not to have brought him more orders, for a little later he writes to his wife: "I waited many days in the hopeof some application in my profession, but have been disappointed untillast evening I called and spent the evening with my friend Mr. VanSchaick, and told him I had thought of painting some little design fromthe 'Sketch Book, ' so as not to be idle, and mentioned the subject ofIchabod Crane discovering the headless horseman. "He said: 'Paint it for me and another picture of the same size, and Iwill take them of you. ' So I am now employed. . . . "_My secret scheme_ is not yet disclosable, but I shall let you know assoon as I hear anything definite. " Still later he says:-- "I have seen many of the artists; they all agree that little is doing inthe city of New York. It seems wholly given to commerce. Every man isdriving at one object--the making of money--not the spending of it. . . . "My _secret scheme_ looks promising, but I am still in suspense; youshall know the moment it is decided one way or the other. " His brother, Sidney Edwards, in a letter to his parents of December 9, 1823, says: "Finley is in good spirits again; not because he has anyprospect of business here, but he is dreaming of the gold mines ofMexico. " As his _secret_ was now out, he explains it fully in the following letterto his wife, dated December 21, 1823:-- "My cash is almost gone and I begin to feel some anxiety and perplexityto know what to do. I have advertised, and visited, and hinted, andpleaded, and even asked one man to sit, but all to no purpose. . . . Myexpenses, with the most rigid economy, too, are necessarily great; myrent to-morrow will amount to thirty-three dollars, and I have nothing topay it with. "What can I do? I have been here five weeks and there is not the smallestprospect _now_ of any difference as to business. I am willing to stay andwish to stay if there is anything to do. The pictures that I am paintingfor Mr. Van Schaick will not pay my expenses if painted here; my rent andboard would eat it all up. "I have thought of various plans, but what to decide upon I am completelyat a loss, nor can I decide until I hear definitely from Washington inregard to my Mexico expedition. Since Brother Sidney has hinted it to youI will tell you the state of it. I wrote to General Van Rensselaer, Mr. Poinsett, and Colonel Hayne, of the Senate, applying for some situationin the legation to Mexico soon to be sent thither. I stated my object ingoing and my wish to go free of expense and under government protection. "I received a letter a few days ago from General Van Rensselaer in whichhe says: 'I immediately laid your request before the President andseconded it with my warmest recommendations. It is impossible to predictthe result at present. If our friend Mr. Poinsett is appointed minister, which his friends are pressing, he will no doubt be happy to have you inhis suite. ' "Thus the case rests at present. If Mr. Poinsett is appointed I shallprobably go to Mexico, if not, it will be more doubtful. . . . If I go Ishould take my picture of the House of Representatives, which, in thepresent state of favorable feeling towards our country, I should probablydispose of to advantage. "All accounts that I hear from Mexico are in the highest degree favorableto my enterprise, and I hear much from various quarters. " As can well be imagined, his wife did not look with unalloyed pleasure onthis plan. She says in a letter of December 25, 1823: "I have felt muchfor you, my dearest Finley, in all your trials and perplexities. I wassorry to hear you had been unsuccessful in obtaining portraits. I hopeyou will, ere long, experience a change for the better. . . . As to theMexico plan, I know not what to think of it. How can I consent to haveyou be at such a distance?" However, convinced by her husband that it would be for his best intereststo go, she reluctantly gave her consent and he used every legitimateeffort to secure the appointment. He was finally successful. Mr. Poinsettwas not appointed as minister; this honor was bestowed on the HonorableNinian Edwards, of Illinois, but Morse was named as one of his suite. In a note from the Honorable Robert Young Hayne, who, it will beremembered, was the opponent of Daniel Webster in the great debates onStates' Rights in the Senate, Morse was thus apprised of his appointment:"Governor Edwards's suite consists of Mr. Mason, of Georgetown, D. C. , secretary of the legation; Mr. Hodgson, of Virginia, private secretary;and yourself, attaché. " Morse had great hopes of increasing his reputation as a painter and ofearning much money in Mexico. He was perfectly frank in stating that hisprincipal object in seeking an appointment as attaché was that he mightpursue his profession, and, in a letter to Mr. Edwards of April 15, 1824, he thus explains why he considers this not incompatible with his dutiesas attaché: "That the pursuit of my profession will not be derogatory tothe situation I may hold I infer from the fact that many of the ancientpainters were ambassadors to different European courts, and pursued theirprofessions constantly while abroad. Rubens, while ambassador to theEnglish court, executed some of his finest portraits and decorated theceiling of the chapel of White Hall with some of his best historicalproductions. " When it was finally decided that he should go, he made all hispreparations, including a bed and bedding among his impedimenta, beingassured that this was necessary in Mexico, and bade farewell to hisfamily. His father, his wife and children, and his sister-in-law accompanied himas far as New York. Writing of the parting he says: "A thousand affectingincidents of separation from my beloved family crowded upon myrecollection. The unconscious gayety of my dear children as theyfrolicked in all their wonted playfulness, too young to sympathize in thepangs that agitated their distressed parents; their artless request tobring home some trifling toy; the parting kiss, not understood as meaningmore than usual; the tears and sad farewells of father, mother, wife, sister, family, friends; the desolateness of every room as the partingglance is thrown on each familiar object, and 'farewell, farewell' seemedwritten on the very walls, --all these things bear upon my memory, and Irealize the declaration that 'the places which now know us shall know usno more. '" [Illustration: LUCRETIA PICKERING WALKER, WIFE OF S. F. B. MORSE, AND TWOCHILDRENPainted by Morse] It must be borne in mind that a journey in those days, even one from NewYork to Washington, was not a few hours' ride in a luxurious Pullman, butwas fraught with many discomforts, delays, and even dangers. As an example of this I shall quote the first part of a letter written byMorse from Washington to his wife on April 11, 1824:-- "I lose not a moment in informing you of my safe arrival, with all mybaggage, in good order last evening. I was much fatigued, went to bedearly, and this morning feel perfectly refreshed and much better for myjourney. "After leaving you on Wednesday morning I had but just time to reach theboat before she started. In the land carriage we occupied three stagesover a very rough road. In crossing a small creek in a ferry-boat thestage ahead of ours left the boat a little too soon and came nearupsetting in the water, which would have put the passengers into adangerous situation. As it was the water came into the carriage and wetsome of the baggage. It was about an hour before they could get the stageout of the water. "Next came our turn. After travelling a few miles the springs on one sidegave way and let us down, almost upsetting us. We got out withoutdifficulty and, in a few minutes, by putting a rail under one side, weproceeded on again, jocosely telling the passengers in the third stagethat it was their turn next. "When we arrived at the boat in the Delaware to our surprise the thirdstage came in with a rail under one side, having met with a similaraccident a few miles after we left them. So we all had our turn, but noinjury to any of us. " His high hopes of success in this enterprise were soon doomed to beshattered, and once again he was made to suffer a bitter disappointment. On April 19 he writes: "I am at this moment put into a very embarrassingstate of suspense by a political occurrence which has caused a greatexcitement here, and will cause considerable interest, no doubt, throughout the country. This morning a remonstrance was read in the Houseof Representatives from the Honorable Ninian Edwards against Mr. Crawford, which contains such charges and of so serious a nature as hasled to the appointment of a select committee, with power to send forpersons and papers in order to a full investigation; and I am told bymany members of Congress that Mr. Edwards will undoubtedly be sent for, which will occasion, of course, a great delay in his journey to Mexico, if not cause a suspension of his going until the next season. " The Mr. Crawford alluded to was William Harris Crawford, at that time aprominent candidate for the Presidency in the coming election. With his customary faith in an overruling Providence, Morse says later inthe same letter: "This delay and suspense tries me more than distance oreven absence from my dear family. If I could be on my way and pursuing myprofession I should feel much better. But all will be for the best;though things look dark I can and will trust Him who will make my path ofduty plain before me. This satisfies my mind and does not allow a singledesponding thought. " The sending of the legation was indefinitely postponed, and Morse, muchdisappointed but resolved not to be overwhelmed by this crushing of hishigh hopes, returned to New Haven. He spent the summer partly at home and partly in Concord, New Hampshire(where his wife and children had gone to visit her father), and inPortsmouth, Portland, and Hartford, having been summoned to those citiesby patrons who wished him to paint their portraits. We can imagine that the young wife did not grieve over the failure of theMexican trip. Her letters to her husband at that period are filled withexpressions of the deepest affection, but with an undertone ofmelancholy, due, no doubt, to the increasing delicacy of her health, never very robust. In the fall of 1824 Morse resolved to make another assault on the pursesof the solid men of New York, and he established himself at 96 Broadway, where, for a time, he had the satisfaction of having his wife andchildren with him. They, however, returned later to New Haven, and onDecember 5, 1824, he writes to his wife:-- "I am fully employed and in excellent spirits. I am engaged in paintingthe full-length portrait of Mr. Hone's little daughter, a pretty littlegirl just as old as Susan. I have made a sketch of the composition withwhich I am pleased, and so are the father and mother. I shall paint herwith a cat set up in her lap like a baby, with a towel under its chin anda cap on its head, and she employed in feeding it with a spoon. . . . "I am as happy and contented as I can be without my dear Lucrece and ourdear children, but I hope it will not be long before we shall be able tolive together without these separations. " "_December 17, 1824. _ I have everything very comfortable at my rooms. Mytwo pupils, Mr. Agate and Mr. Field, are very tractable and very useful. I have everything 'in Pimlico, ' as mother would say. "I have begun, and thus far carried on, a system of neatness in mypainting-room which I never could have with Henry. Everything has itsplace, and every morning the room is swept and all things put inorder. . . . "I have as much as I can do in painting. I do not mean by this that Ihave the overflow that I had in Charleston, nor do I wish it. A hardshower is soon over; I wish rather the gentle, steady, continuing rain. Ifeel that I have a character to obtain and maintain, and therefore mypictures must be carefully studied. I shall not by this method paint sofast nor acquire property so fast, but I shall do what is better, securea continuance of patronage and success. "I have no disposition to be a nine days' wonder, all the rage for amoment and then forgotten forever; compelled on this very account towander from city to city, to shine a moment in one and then pass on toanother. " In a letter of a later date he says:-- "I am going on prosperously through the kindness of Providence in raisingup many friends who are exerting themselves in my favor. My storms arepartly over, and a clear and pleasant day is dawning upon me. " CHAPTER XIII JANUARY 4, 1825--NOVEMBER 18, 1825 Success in New York. --Chosen to paint portrait of Lafayette. --Hope of apermanent home with his family. --Meets Lafayette in Washington. --Mutuallyattracted. --Attends President's levee. --Begins portrait of Lafayette. --Death of his wife. --Crushed by the news. --His attachment to her. --Epitaphcomposed by Benjamin Silliman. --Bravely takes up his work again. --Finishes portrait of Lafayette. --Describes it in letter of a later date. --Sonnet on death of Lafayette's dog. --Rents a house in Canal Street, NewYork. --One of the founders of National Academy of Design. --Tactfulresolutions on organization. --First thirty members. --Morse elected firstpresident. --Reëlected every year until 1845. --Again made president in1861. --Lectures on Art. --Popularity. It is a commonly accepted belief that a particularly fine, clear day isapt to be followed by a storm. Meteorologists can probably givesatisfactory scientific reasons for this phenomenon, but, be that as itmay, how often do we find a parallel in human affairs. A period ofprosperity and happiness in the life of a man or of a nation is almostinvariably followed by calamities, small or great; but, fortunately forindividuals and for nations, the converse is also true. The creepingpendulum of fate, pausing for an instant at its highest point, dips downagain to gather impetus for a higher swing. And so it was with Morse. Fate was preparing for him a heavy blow, one ofthe tragedies of his eventful life, and, in order to hearten him for thetrial, to give him strength to bear up under it, she cheered hisprofessional path with the sun of prosperity. Writing to his wife from New York on January 4, 1825, he says:-- "You will rejoice with me, I know, in my continued and increasingsuccess. I have just learned in confidence, from one of the members ofthe committee of the corporation appointed to procure a full-lengthportrait of Lafayette, that they have designated me as the painter of it, and that a subcommittee was appointed to wait on me with the information. They will probably call to-morrow, but, until it is thus officiallyannounced to me, I wish the thing kept secret, except to the family, until I write you more definitely on the subject, which I will do themoment the terms, etc. , are settled with the committee. "I shall probably be under the necessity of going to Washington to takeit immediately (the corporation, of course, paying my expenses). But ofthis in my next. " "_January 6, 1825. _ I have been officially notified of my appointment topaint the full-length portrait of Lafayette for the City of New York, sothat you may make it as public as you please. "The terms are not definitely settled; the committee is disposed to bevery liberal. I shall have at least seven hundred dollars--probably onethousand. I have to wait until an answer can be received from Washington, from Lafayette to know when he can see me. The answer will arriveprobably on Wednesday morning; after that I can determine what to doabout going on. "The only thing I fear is that it is going to deprive me of my dearLucretia. Recollect the old lady's saying, often quoted by mother, 'Thereis never a convenience but there ain't one'; I long to see you. " It was well for the young man that he did not realize how dreadfully hisjesting fears were to be realized. Further on he says: "I have made an arrangement with Mr. Durand to havean engraving of Lafayette's portrait. I receive half the profits. Vanderlyn, Sully, Peale, Jarvis, Waldo, Inman, Ingham, and some otherswere my competitors in the application for this picture. " "_January 8. _ Your letter of the 5th I have just received, and one fromthe committee of medical students engaging me to paint Dr. Smith'sportrait for them when I come to New Haven. They are to give me onehundred dollars. I have written them that I should be in New Haven by the1st of February, or, at farthest, by the 6th; so that it is onlyprolonging for a little longer, my dear wife, the happy meeting which Ianticipated for the 25th of this month. Events are not under our owncontrol. "When I consider how wonderfully things are working for the promotion ofthe great and _long-desired_ event--that of being constantly with my dearfamily--all unpleasant feelings are absorbed in this joyful anticipation, and I look forward to the spring of the year with delightful prospects ofseeing my dear family permanently settled with me in our own hired househere. There are more encouraging prospects than I can trust to paper atpresent which must be left for your private ear, and which in magnitudeare far more valuable than any encouragement yet made known to me. Let uslook with thankful hearts to the Giver of all these blessings. " "_Washington, February 8, 1825. _ I arrived safely in this city lastevening. I find I have no time to lose, as the Marquis will leave herethe 23d. I have seen him and am to breakfast with him to-morrow, and tocommence his portrait. If he allows me time sufficient I have no fear asto the result. He has a noble face. In this I am disappointed, for I hadheard that his features were not good. On the contrary, if there is anytruth in expression of character, there never was a more perfect exampleof accordance between the face and the character. He has all that noblefirmness and consistency, for which he has been so distinguished, strongly indicated in his whole face. "While he was reading my letters I could not but call to mind the leadingevents of his truly eventful life. 'This is the man now before me, thevery man, ' thought I, 'who suffered in the dungeon of Olmütz; the veryman who took the oaths of the new constitution for so many millions, while the eyes of thousands were fixed upon him (and which is soadmirably described in the Life which I read to you just before I lefthome); the very man who spent his youth, and his fortune, and his time, to bring about (under Providence) our happy Revolution; the friend andcompanion of Washington, the terror of tyrants, the firm and consistentsupporter of liberty, the man whose beloved name has rung from one end ofthis continent to the other, whom all flock to see, whom all delight tohonor; this is the man, the very identical man!' My feelings were almosttoo powerful for me as I shook him by the hand and received the greetingof--'Sir, I am exceedingly happy in your acquaintance, and especially onsuch an occasion. '" Thus began an acquaintance which ripened into warm friendship betweenMorse and Lafayette, and which remained unbroken until the death of thelatter. "_February 10, 1825. _ I went last night to the President's levee, thelast which Mr. Monroe will hold as President of the United States. Therewas a great crowd and a great number of distinguished characters, amongwhom were General Lafayette; the President-elect, J. Q. Adams; Mr. Calhoun, the Vice-President elect; General Jackson, etc. I paid myrespects to Mr. Adams and congratulated him on his election. He seemed insome degree to shake off his habitual reserve, and, although heendeavored to suppress his feelings of gratification at his success, itwas not difficult to perceive that he felt in high spirits on theoccasion. General Jackson went up to him and, shaking him by the hand, congratulated him cordially on his election. The General bears his defeatlike a man, and has shown, I think, by this act a nobleness of mind whichwill command the respect of those who have been most opposed to him. "The excitement (if it may be called such) on this great question inWashington is over, and everything is moving on in its accustomed channelagain. All seem to speak in the highest terms of the order and decorumpreserved through the whole of this imposing ceremony, and the goodfeeling which seems to prevail, with but trivial exceptions, is thoughtto augur well in behalf of the new administration. " (There was no choice by the people in the election of that year, and JohnQuincy Adams had been chosen President by a vote of the House ofRepresentatives. ) "I went last night in a carriage with four others--Captain Chauncey ofthe navy; Mr. Cooper, the celebrated author of the popular Americannovels; Mr. Causici (pronounced Cau-see-chee), the sculptor; and Mr. Owen, of Lanark, the celebrated philanthropist. "Mr. Cooper remarked that we had on board a more singularly selectedcompany, he believed, than any carriage at the door of the President, namely, a _misanthropist_ (such he called Captain Chauncey, brother ofthe Commodore), a _philanthropist_ (Mr. Owen), a _painter_ (myself), a_sculptor_ (Mr. Causici), and an _author_ (himself). "The Mr. Owen mentioned above is the very man I sometimes met at Mr. Wilberforce's in London, and who was present at the interesting scene Ihave often related that occurred at Mr. Wilberforce's. He recollected thecircumstance and recognized me, as I did him, instantly, although it istwelve years ago. "I am making progress with the General, but am much perplexed for want oftime; I mean _his time_. He is so harassed by visitors and has so manyletters to write that I find it exceedingly difficult to do the subjectjustice. I give him the last sitting in Washington to-morrow, reservinganother sitting or two when he visits New York in July next. I have goneon thus far to my satisfaction and do not doubt but I shall succeedentirely, if I am allowed the requisite number of sittings. The Generalis very agreeable. He introduced me to his son by saying: 'This is Mr. Morse, the painter, the son of the geographer; he has come to Washingtonto take the topography of my face. ' He thinks of visiting New Haven againwhen he returns from Boston. He regretted not having seen more of it whenhe was there, as he was much pleased with the place. He remembersProfessor Silliman and others with great affection. "I have left but little room in this letter to express my affection formy dearly loved wife and children; but of that I need not assure them. Ilong to hear from you, but direct your letters next to New York, as Ishall probably be there by the end of next week, or the beginning of thesucceeding one. "Love to all the family and friends and neighbors. Your affectionatehusband, as ever. " Alas! that there should have been no telegraph then to warn the lovinghusband of the blow which Fate had dealt him. As he was light-heartedly attending the festivities at the White House, and as he was penning these two interesting letters to his wife, letterswhich she never read, and anticipating with keenest pleasure a speedyreunion, she lay dead at their home in New Haven. His father thus conveys to him the melancholy intelligence:-- "_February 8th, 1825. _ My affectionately beloved Son, --Mysterious are theways of Providence. My heart is in pain and deeply sorrowful while Iannounce to you the sudden and unexpected death of your dear anddeservedly loved wife. Her disease proved to be an _affection of theheart_--incurable, had it been known. Dr. Smith's letter, accompanyingthis, will explain all you will desire to know on this subject. "I wrote you yesterday that she was convalescent. So she then appearedand so the doctor pronounced. She was up about five o'clock yesterdayP. M. To have her bed made as usual; was unusually cheerful and social;spoke of the pleasure of being with her dear husband in New York erelong; stepped into bed herself, fell back with a momentary struggle onher pillow, her eyes were immediately fixed, the paleness of deathoverspread her countenance, and in five minutes more, without theslightest motion, her mortal life terminated. "It happened that just at this moment I was entering her chamber doorwith Charles in my arms, to pay her my usual visit and to pray with her. The nurse met me affrighted, calling for help. Your mother, the family, our neighbors, full of the tenderest sympathy and kindness, and thedoctors thronged the house in a few minutes. Everything was done thatcould be done to save her life, but her 'appointed time' had come, and noearthly power or skill could stay the hand of death. "It was the Lord who gave her to you, the chiefest of all your earthlyblessings, and it is He that has taken her away, and may you be enabled, my son, from the heart to say: 'Blessed be the name of the Lord. '. . . Theshock to the whole family is far beyond, in point of severity, that ofany we have ever before felt, but we are becoming composed, we hope ongrounds which will prove solid and lasting. "I expect this will reach you on Saturday, the day after the one we haveappointed for the funeral, when you will have been in Washington a weekand I hope will have made such progress in your business as that you willsoon be able to return. . . . "You need not hurry home. Nothing here requires it. We are all well andeverything will be taken good care of. Give yourself no concern on thataccount. Finish your business as well as you will be able to do it afterreceiving this sad news. " This blow was an overwhelming one. He could not, of course, composehimself sufficiently to continue his work on the portrait of Lafayette, and, having apprised the General of the reason for this, he received fromthe following sympathetic letter:-- I have feared to intrude upon you, my dear sir, but want to tell you howdeeply I sympathize in your grief--a grief of which nobody can betterthan me appreciate the cruel feelings. You will hear from me, as soon as I find myself again near you, to finishthe work you have so well begun. Accept my affectionate and mournful sentiment. LAFAYETTE. The day after he received his father's letter he left Washington andwrote from Baltimore, where he stopped over Sunday with a friend, onFebruary 13:-- MY DEAR FATHER, --The heart-rending tidings which you communicated reachedme in Washington on Friday evening. I left yesterday morning, spend thisday here at Mr. Cushing's, and set out on my return home to-morrow. Ishall reach Philadelphia on Monday night, New York on Tuesday night, andNew Haven on Wednesday night. Oh! is it possible, is it possible? Shall I never see my dear wife again? But I cannot trust myself to write on this subject. I need your prayersand those of Christian friends to God for support. I fear I shall sinkunder it. Oh! take good care of her dear children. Your agonized son, FINLEY. Another son had been born to him on January 20, 1825, and he was now leftwith three motherless children to provide for, and without the sustaininghope of a speedy and permanent reunion with them and with his belovedwife. Writing to a friend more than a month after the death of his wife, hesays:-- "Though late in performing the promise I made you of writing you when Iarrived home, I hope you will attribute it to anything but forgetfulnessof that promise. The confusion and derangement consequent on such anafflicting bereavement as I have suffered have rendered it necessary forme to devote the first moments of composure to looking about me, and tocollecting and arranging the fragments of the ruin which has spread suchdesolation over all my earthly prospects. "Oh! what a blow! I dare not yet give myself up to the full survey of itsdesolating effects. Every day brings to my mind a thousand new and fondconnections with dear Lucretia, all now ruptured. I feel a dreadful void, a heart-sickness, which time does not seem to heal but rather toaggravate. "You know the intensity of the attachment which existed between dearLucretia and me, never for a moment interrupted by the smallest cloud; anattachment founded, I trust, in the purest love, and daily strengtheningby all the motives which the ties of nature and, more especially, ofreligion, furnish. "I found in dear Lucretia everything I could wish. Such ardor ofaffection, so uniform, so unaffected, I never saw nor read of but in her. My fear with regard to the measure of my affection toward her was notthat I might fail of 'loving her as my own flesh, ' but that I should puther in the place of Him who has said, 'Thou shalt have no other Gods butme. ' I felt this to be my greatest danger, and to be saved from this_idolatry_ was often the subject of my earnest prayers. "If I had desired anything in my dear Lucretia different from what shewas, it would have been that she had been _less lovely_. My whole soulseemed wrapped up in her; with her was connected all that I expected ofhappiness on earth. Is it strange, then, that I now feel this void, thisdesolateness, this loneliness, this heart-sickness; that I should feel asif my very heart itself had been torn from me? "To any one but those who knew dear Lucretia what I have said might seemto be but the extravagance of an excited imagination; but to you, whoknew the dear object I lament, all that I have said must but feeblyshadow her to your memory. " [Illustration: STUDY FOR PORTRAIT OF LAFAYETTENow in New York Public Library] It was well for him that he found constant occupation for his hand andbrain at this critical period of his life. The Fates had dealt him thiscruel blow for some good reason best known to themselves. He was beingprepared for a great mission, and it was meet that his soul, like gold, should be purified by fire; but, at the same time, that the blow mightnot utterly overwhelm him, success in his chosen profession seemed againto be within his grasp. Writing to his parents from New York, on April 8, 1825, he says:-- "I have as much as I can do, but after being fatigued at night and havingmy thoughts turned to my irreparable loss, I am ready almost to give up. The thought of seeing my dear Lucretia, and returning home to her, servedalways to give me fresh courage and spirits whenever I felt worn down bythe labors of the day, and now I hardly know what to substitute in herplace. "To my friends here I know I seem to be cheerful and happy, but acheerful countenance with me covers an aching heart, and often have Ifeigned a more than ordinary cheerfulness to hide a more than ordinaryanguish. "I am blessed with prosperity in my profession. I have just receivedanother commission from the corporation of the city to paint acommon-sized portrait of Rev. Mr. Stanford for them, to be placed in thealmshouse. " The loss of his young wife was the great tragedy of Morse's life. Time, with her soothing touch, healed the wound, but the scar remained. Hersmust have been, indeed, a lovely character. Professor Benjamin Silliman, Sr. , one of her warmest friends, composed the epitaph which still remainsinscribed upon her tombstone in the cemetery at New Haven. (See oppositepage. ) IN MEMORY OFLUCRETIA PICKERINGWIFE OFSAMUEL F. B. MORSEWHO DIED 7TH OF FEBRUARY A. D. 1825, AGED 25 YEARS. SHE COMBINED, IN HER CHARACTER AND PERSON, A RARE ASSEMBLAGE OF EXCELLENCES:BEAUTIFUL IN FORM, FEATURES AND EXPRESSIONPECULIARLY BLAND IN HER MANNERS, HIGHLY CULTIVATED IN MIND, SHE IRRESISTIBLY DREW ATTENTION, LOVE, AND RESPECT;DIGNIFIED WITHOUT HAUGHTINESS, AMIABLE WITHOUT TAMENESS, FIRM WITHOUT SEVERITY, ANDCHEERFUL WITHOUT LEVITY, HER UNIFORM SWEETNESS OF TEMPERSPREAD PERPETUAL SUNSHINE AROUNDEVERY CIRCLE IN WHICHSHE MOVED. "WHEN THE EAR HEARD HER IT BLESSED HER, WHEN THE EYE SAW HER IT GAVEWITNESS TO HER. "IN SUFFERINGS THE MOST KEEN, HER SERENITY OF MIND NEVER FAILED HER;DEATH TO HER HAD NO TERRORS, THE GRAVE NO GLOOM. THOUGH SUDDENLY CALLED FROM EARTH, ETERNITY WAS NO STRANGER TO HER THOUGHTS, BUT A WELCOME THEME OFCONTEMPLATION. RELIGION WAS THE SUNTHAT ILLUMINED EVERY VIRTUE, AND UNITED ALL IN ONEBOW OF BEAUTY. HERS WAS THE RELIGION OF THE GOSPEL;JESUS CHRIST HER FOUNDATION, THE AUTHOR AND FINISHER OF HER FAITH. IN HIM SHE RESTS, IN SUREEXPECTATION OF A GLORIOUSRESURRECTION. With a heavy heart, but bravely determining not to be overwhelmed by thiscrushing blow, Morse took up his work again. He finished the portrait ofLafayette, and it now hangs in the City Hall in New York. Writing of itmany years later to a gentleman who had made some enquiries concerningit, he says:-- "In answer to yours of the 8th instant, just received, I can only say itis so long since I have seen the portrait I painted of General Lafayettefor the City of New York, that, strange to say, I find it difficult torecall even its general characteristics. "That portrait has a melancholy interest for me, for it was just as I hadcommenced the second sitting of the General at Washington that I receivedthe stunning intelligence of Mrs. Morse's death, and was compelledabruptly to suspend the work. I preserve, as a gratifying memorial, theletter of condolence and sympathy sent in to me at the time by theGeneral, and in which he speaks in flattering terms of the promise of theportrait as a likeness. "I must be frank, however, in my judgment of my own works of that day. This portrait was begun under the sad auspices to which I have alluded, and, up to the close of the work, I had a series of constantinterruptions of the same sad character. A picture painted under suchcircumstances can scarcely be expected to do the artist justice, and as awork of art I cannot praise it. Still, it is a good likeness, was verysatisfactory to the General, and he several times alluded to it in mypresence in after years (when I was a frequent visitor to him in Paris)in terms of praise. "It is a full-length, standing figure, the size of life. He isrepresented as standing at the top of a flight of steps, which he hasjust ascended upon a terrace, the figure coming against a glowing sunsetsky, indicative of the glory of his own evening of life. Upon his right, if I remember, are three pedestals, one of which is vacant as if waitingfor his bust, while the two others are surmounted by the busts ofWashington and Franklin--the two associated eminent historical charactersof his own time. In a vase on the other side is a flower-thehelianthus--with its face toward the sun, in allusion to thecharacteristic stern, uncompromising consistency of Lafayette-a trait ofcharacter which I then considered, and still consider, the greatprominent trait of that distinguished man. " Morse, like many men who have excelled in one branch of the fine arts, often made excursions into one of the others. I find among his papersmany scraps of poetry and some more ambitious efforts, and while they donot, perhaps, entitle him to claim a poet's crown, some of them areworthy of being rescued from oblivion. The following sonnet was sent toLafayette under the circumstances which Morse himself thus describes:-- "Written on the loss of a faithful dog of Lafayette's on board thesteamboat which sank in the Mississippi. The dog, supposing his masterstill on board, could not be persuaded to leave the cabin, but perishedwith the vessel. "Lost, from thy care to know thy master free Can we thy self-devotion e'er forget?'Twas kindred feeling in a less degree To that which thrilled the soul of Lafayette. He freely braved our storms, our dangers met, Nor left the ship till we had 'scaped the sea. Thine was a spark of noble feeling brightCaught from the fire that warms thy master's heart. His was of Heaven's kindling, and no small part Of that pure fire is His. We hail the lightWhere'er it shines, in heaven, in man, in brute;We hail that sacred light howe'er minute, Whether its glimmering in thy bosom rest Or blaze full orb'd within thy master's breast. " This was sent to General Lafayette on the 4th of July, 1825, accompaniedby the following note:-- "In asking your acceptance of the enclosed poetic trifle, I have not thevanity to suppose it can contribute much to your gratification; but if itshall be considered as an endeavor to show to you some slight return ofgratitude for the kind sympathy you evinced towards me at a time of deepaffliction, I shall have attained my aim. Gladly would I offer to you anyservice, but, while a whole nation stands waiting to answer theexpression of your smallest wish, my individual desire to serve you canonly be considered as contending for a portion of that high honor whichall feel in serving you. " Concealing from the world his great sorrow, and bravely striving alwaysto maintain a cheerful countenance, Morse threw himself with energy intohis work in New York, endeavoring to keep every minute occupied. He seems to have had his little daughter with him for a while, for in aletter of March 12, 1825, occurs this sentence: "Little Susan has had thetoothache once or twice, and I have promised her a doll if she would haveit out to-day--I am this moment stopped by her coming in and showing methe _tooth out_, so I shall give her the doll. " But he soon found that it would be impossible for him to do justice tohis work and at same time fulfil his duties as a parent, and for manyyears afterwards his motherless children found homes with differentrelatives, but the expense of their keep and education was always borneby their father. On the 1st of May, 1825, he moved into new quarters, having rented anentire house at No. 20 Canal Street for the sum of four hundred dollars ayear, and he says, "My new establishment will be very commodious for myprofessional studies, and I do not think its being so far '_up town_'will, on the whole, be any disadvantage to me. " "May 26, 1825. I have at length become comfortably settled and begin tofeel at home in my new establishment. All things at present go smoothly. Brother Charles Walker and Mr. Agate join with me in breakfast and tea, and we find it best for convenience, economy, and time to dine fromhome, --it saves the perplexity of providing marketing and the care ofstores, and, besides, we think it will be more economical and the walkwill be beneficial. " While success in his profession seemed now assured, and while orders poured in so fast that he gladly assisted some of hisless fortunate brother artists by referring his would-be patrons to them, he also took a deep interest in the general artistic movement of thetime. He was, by nature, intensely enthusiastic, and his strong personalityever impressed itself on individuals and communities with which he camein contact. He was a born leader of men, and, like so many other leaders, often so forgetful of self in his eager desire for the general good as toseriously interfere with his material prosperity. This is what happenedto him now, for he gave so liberally of himself in the formation of a newartistic body in New York, and in the preparation of lectures, that heencroached seriously on time which might have been more lucrativelyemployed. His brother Sidney comments on this in a letter to the other brotherRichard: "Finley is well and in good spirits, though not advancing veryrapidly in his business. He is full of the Academy and of his lectures--can hardly talk on any other subject. I despair of ever seeing him richor even at ease in his pecuniary circumstances from efforts of his own, though able to do it with so little effort. But he may be in a betterway, perhaps, of getting a fortune in his present course than he would bein the laborious path which we are too apt to think is the only road towealth and ultimate ease. " We have seen that Morse was one of the founders of an academy of art inCharleston, South Carolina, and we have seen that, after his departurefrom that city, this academy languished and died. Is it an unfairinference that, if he had remained permanently in Charleston, so sad afate would not have overtaken the infant academy? In support of thisinference we shall now see that he was largely instrumental in bringinginto being an artistic association, over which he presided for manyyears, and which has continued to prosper until, at the present day, itis the leading artistic body in this country. When Morse settled in New York in 1825 there existed an American Academyof Arts, of which Colonel Trumbull, the celebrated painter, was thepresident. While eminent as a painter, Trumbull seems to have lackedexecutive ability and to have been rather haughty and overbearing in hismanner, for Morse found great dissatisfaction existing among theprofessional artists and students. At first it was thought that, by bringing their grievances before theboard of directors of the Academy, conditions might be changed, and onthe 8th of November, 1825, a meeting was called in the rooms of theHistorical Society, and the "New York Drawing Association" was formed, and Morse was chosen to preside over its meetings. It was not intended, at first, that this association should be a rival of the old Academy, butthat it should give to its members facilities which were difficult ofattainment in the Academy, and should, perhaps, force that institution tobecome more liberal. It was not successful in the latter effort, for at a meeting of theDrawing Association on the evening of the 14th of January, 1825, Morse, the president, proposed certain resolutions which he introduced by thefollowing remarks:-- "We have this evening assumed a new attitude in the community; ournegotiations with the Academy are at an end; our union with it has beenfrustrated after every proper effort on our part to accomplish it. Thetwo who were elected as directors from our ticket have signified theirnon-acceptance of the office. We are therefore left to organize ourselveson a plan that shall meet the wishes of us all. "A plan of an institution which shall be truly liberal, which shall bemutually beneficial, which shall really encourage our respective arts, cannot be devised in a moment; it ought to be the work of great cautionand deliberation and as simple as possible in its machinery. Time will berequired for the purpose. We must hear from distant countries to obtaintheir experience, and it must necessarily be, perhaps, many months beforeit can be matured. "In the mean time, however, a preparatory, simple organization can bemade, and should be made as soon as possible, to prevent dismemberment, which may be attempted by outdoor influence. On this subject let us allbe on our guard; let us point to our public documents to any who ask whatwe have done and why we have done it, while we go forward minding onlyour own concerns, leaving the Academy of Fine Arts as much of ourthoughts as they will permit us, and, bending our attention to our ownaffairs, act as if no such institution existed. "One of our dangers at present is division and anarchy from a want oforganization suited to the present exigency. We are now composed ofartists in the four arts of design, namely, painting, sculpture, architecture, and engraving. Some of us are professional artists, othersamateurs, others students. To the professed and practical artist belongsthe management of all things relating to schools, premiums, and lectures, so that amateur and student may be most profited. The amateurs andstudents are those alone who can contend for the premiums, while the bodyof professional artists exclusively judge of their rights to premiums andaward them. "How shall we first make the separation has been a question which is alittle perplexing. There are none of us who can assume to be the body ofartists without giving offence to others, and still every one mustperceive that, to organize an academy, there must be the distinctionbetween professional artists, amateurs who are students, and professionalstudents. The first great division should be the body of professionalartists from the amateurs and students, constituting the body who are tomanage the entire concerns of the institution, who shall be its officers, etc. "There is a method which strikes me as obviating the difficulty; place iton the broad principle of the formation of any society--universalsuffrage. We are now a mixed body; it is necessary for the benefit of allthat a separation into classes be made. Who shall make it? "Why, obviously the body itself. Let every member of this associationtake home with him a list of all the members of it. Let each one selectfor himself from the whole list _fifteen_, whom he would callprofessional artists, to be the ticket which he will give in at the nextmeeting. "These fifteen thus chosen shall elect not less than _ten_, nor more than_fifteen_, professional artists, in or out of the association, who shall(with the previously elected fifteen) constitute the body to be calledthe National Academy of the Arts of Design. To these shall be delegatedthe power to regulate its entire concerns, choose its members, select itsstudents, etc. "Thus will the germ be formed to grow up into an institution which wetrust will be put on such principles as to encourage--not to depress--thearts. When this is done our body will no longer be the DrawingAssociation, but the National Academy of the Arts of Design, stillincluding all the present association, but in different capacities. "One word as to the name 'National Academy of the Arts of Design. ' Anyless name than 'National' would be taking one below the American Academy, and therefore is not desirable. If we were simply the 'AssociatedArtists, ' their name would swallow us up; therefore 'National' seems aproper one as to the arts of design. These are painting, sculpture, architecture, and engraving, while the fine arts include poetry, music, landscape gardening, and the histrionic arts. Our name, therefore, expresses the entire character of our institution and that only. " From this we see that Morse's enthusiasm was tempered with tact andcommon sense. His proposals were received with unanimous approval, and onthe 15th of January, 1826, the following fifteen were chosen:--S. F. B. Morse, Henry Inman, A. B. Durand, John Frazee, William Wall, Charles C. Ingham, William Dunlap, Peter Maverick, Ithiel Town, Thomas S. Cummings, Edward Potter, Charles C. Wright, Mosely J. Danforth, Hugh Reinagle, Gerlando Marsiglia. These fifteen professional artists added by ballot totheir number the following fifteen:--Samuel Waldo, William Jewett, JohnW. Paradise, Frederick S. Agate, Rembrandt Peale, James Coyle, NathanielRogers, J. Parisen, William Main, John Evers, Martin E. Thompson, ThomasCole, John Vanderlyn (who declined), Alexander Anderson, D. W. Wilson. Thus was organized the National Academy of Design. Morse was elected itsfirst president and was annually reëlected to that office until the year1845, when, the telegraph having now become an assured success, he feltthat he could not devote the necessary time and thought to the interestsof the Academy, and he insisted on retiring. In the year 1861 he was prevailed upon by Thomas S. Cummings, one of theoriginal academicians, but now a general, to become again the president, and he served in that office for a year. The General, in a letter to Mr. Prime in 1873, says, "and, I may add, was beloved by all. " I shall not attempt to give a detailed account of the early struggles ofthe Academy, closely interwoven though they be with Morse's life. Thosewho may be interested in the matter will find them all detailed inGeneral Cummings' "Records of the National Academy of Design. " Morse prepared and delivered a number of lectures on various subjectspertaining to the fine arts, and most of these have been preserved inpamphlet form. In this connection I shall quote again from the letter ofGeneral Cummings before alluded to:-- "Mr. Morse's connection with the Academy was doubtless unfavorable in apecuniary point of view; his interest in it interfering with professionalpractice, and the time taken to enable him to prepare his course oflectures materially contributed to favor a distribution of his labors inart to other hands, and it never fully returned to him. His 'Discourse onAcademies of Art, ' delivered in the chapel of Columbia College, May, 1827, will long stand as a monument of his ability in the line of artliterature. "As an historical painter Mr. Morse, after Allston, was probably the bestprepared and most fully educated artist of his day, and should havereceived the attention of the Government and a share of the distributionsin art commissions. " That his efforts were appreciated by his fellow artists and by thecultivated people of New York is thus modestly described in a letter tohis parents of November 18, 1825:-- "I mentioned that reputation was flowing in upon me. The younger artistshave formed a drawing association at the Academy and elected me theirpresident. We meet in the evenings of three days in a week to draw, andit has been conducted thus far with such success as to have trebled thenumber of our association and excited the attention and applause of thecommunity. There is a spirit of harmony among the artists, every onesays, which never before existed in New York, and which augurs well forthe success of the arts. "The artists are pleased to attribute it to my exertions, and I find inthem in consequence expressions and feelings of respect which have beenvery gratifying to me. Whatever influence I have had, however, inproducing this pleasant state of things, I think there was thepreparation in the state of mind of the artists themselves. I find aliberal feeling in the younger part of them, and a refinement of manners, which will redeem the character of art from the degradation to which afew dissipated interlopers have, temporarily, reduced it. "A Literary Society, admission to which must be by unanimous vote, andinto which many respectable literary characters of the city have beendenied admission, has chosen me a member, together with Mr. Hillhouse andMr. Bryant, poets. This indicates good feelings towards me, to say theleast, and, in the end, will be of advantage, I have no doubt. " CHAPTER XIV JANUARY 1, 1826--DECEMBER 5, 1829 Success of his lectures, the first of the kind in the United States. --Difficulties of his position as leader. --Still longing for a home. --Verybusy but in good health. --Death of his father. --Estimates of Dr. Morse. --Letters to his mother. --Wishes to go to Europe again. --Delivers addressat first anniversary of National Academy of Design. --Professor Danalectures on electricity. --Morse's study of the subject. --Moves to No. 13Murray Street. --Too busy to visit his family. --Death of his mother. --Aremarkable woman. --Goes to central New York. --A serious accident. --Moralreflections. --Prepares to go to Europe. --Letter of John A. Dix. --Sailsfor Liverpool. --Rough voyage. --Liverpool. January 1, 1826 MY DEAR PARENTS, --I wish you all a Happy New Year! Kiss my little ones asa New Year's present from me, which must answer until I visit them, whenI shall bring them each a present if I hear good accounts from them. . . . The new year brings with it many painful reflections to me. When Iconsider what a difference a year has accomplished in my situation; thatone on whom I depended so much for domestic happiness at this time lastyear gave me the salutations of the season, and now is gone where yearsare unknown; and when I think how mysteriously I am separated from mylittle family, and that duty may keep me I know not how much longer inthis solitary state, I have much that makes the present season far frombeing a Happy New Year to me. But, mysterious as things seem in regard tothe future, I know that all will be ordered right, and I have a greatdeal to say of mercy in the midst of judgment, and a thousand unmeritedblessings with all my troubles. But why do I talk of troubles? My cup is overflowing with blessings. Asfar as outward circumstances are concerned, Providence seems to beopening an honorable and useful course to me. Oh! that I may be able tobear prosperity, if it is his will to bestow it, or be denied it if notaccompanied with his blessing. . . . I am much engaged in my lectures, have completed two, nearly, and hope toget through the four in season for my turn at the Athenæum. Theselectures are of great importance to me, for, if well done, they place mealone among the artists; I being the only one who has as yet written acourse of lectures in our country. Time bestowed on them is not, therefore, misspent, for they will acquire me reputation which will yieldwealth, as mother, I hope, will live to see. "_January 15, 1826. _ On this day I seem to have the only moment in theweek in which I can write you, for I am almost overwhelmed by themultitude of cares that crowd upon me. . . . I find that the path of duty, though plain, is not without its roughness. I can say but in one wordthat the Association of Artists, of whom I am president, afternegotiations of some weeks with the Academy of Fine Arts to come into iton terms of mutual benefit, find their efforts unavailing, and haveseparated and formed a new academy to be called, probably, the NationalAcademy of the Arts of Design. I am at its head, but the cares andresponsibility which devolve on me in consequence are more than a balancefor the honor. The battle is yet to be fought for the need of publicfavor, and were it not that the entire and perfect justness of our causeis clear to me in every point of view, I should retire from a contestwhich would merely serve to rouse up all the 'old Adam' to no profit; butthe cause of the artists seems, under Providence, to be, in some degree, confided to me, and I cannot shrink from the cares and troubles atpresent put upon me. I have gone forward thus far, asking direction fromabove, and, in looking around me, I feel that I am in the path of duty. May I be kept in it and be preserved from the temptations, the variousand multiplied and complicated temptations, to which I know I shall beexposed. In every step thus far I feel an approving conscience; there isnone I could wish to retrace. . . . "I fear you will think I have but few thoughts for you all at home, andmy dear little ones in particular. I do think of them, though, veryoften, with many a longing to have a home for them under a parent's roof, and all my efforts now are tending distantly to that end; but when Ishall ever have a home of my own, or whether it will ever be, I know not. The necessity for a second connection on their account seems pressing, but I cannot find my heart ready for it. I am occasionally rallied on thesubject, but the suggestion only reminds me of her I have lost, and atear is quite as ready to appear as a smile; or, if I can disguise it, Ifeel a pang within that shows me the wound is not yet healed. It iseleven months since she has gone, but it seems but yesterday. " "_April 18, 1826. _ I don't know but you will think I have forgotten howto write letters, and I believe this is the first I have written for sixweeks. "The pressure of my lectures became very great towards the close of them, and I was compelled to bend my whole attention to their completion. I didnot expect, when I delivered my first, that I should be able to give morethan two, but the importance of going through seemed greater as Iadvanced, and I was strengthened to accomplish the whole number, and, ifI can judge from various indications, I think I have been successful. Myaudience, consisting of the most fashionable and literary society in thecity, regularly increased at each successive lecture, and at the last itwas said that I had the largest audience ever assembled in the room. "I am now engaged on Lafayette in expectation of completing it for ourexhibition in May, after which time I hope I shall be able to see you fora day or two in New Haven. I long to see you all, and those dear childrenoften make me feel anxious, and I am often tempted to break away and havea short look at them, but I am tied down here and cannot move at present. All that I am doing has some reference to their interest; they areconstantly on my mind. ". . . My health was never better with all my intense application, sittingin my chair from seven in the morning until twelve or one o'clock thenext morning, with only about an hour's intermission. I have felt nopermanent inconvenience. On Saturday night, generally, I have feltexceedingly nervous, so that my whole body and limbs would shake, butresting on the Sabbath seemed to give me strength for the next week. Since my mind is relieved from my lectures I have felt new life andspirits, and feel strong to accomplish anything. " "_May 10, 18S6. _ I have just heard from mother and feel anxious aboutfather. Nothing but the most imperious necessity prevents my comingimmediately to New Haven; indeed, as it is, I will try and break awaysometime next week, if possible, and pass one day with you, but how to doit without detriment to my business I don't know. . . . "I have longed for some time for a little respite, but, like our goodfather, all his sons seem destined for most busy stations in society, andconstant exertions, not for themselves alone, but for the publicbenefit. " Whether this promised visit to New Haven was paid or not is not recorded, but it is to be hoped that it was made possible, for the good husband andfather, the faithful worker for the betterment of mankind, was called tohis well-earned rest on the 9th of June, 1826. Of him Dr. John Todd said, "Dr. Morse lived before his time and was inadvance of his generation. " President Dwight of Yale found him "as fullof resources as an egg is of meat"; and Daniel Webster spoke of him as"always thinking, always writing, always talking, always acting. " Mr. Prime thus sums up his character: "He was a man of genius, not contentwith what had been and was, but originating and with vast executiveability combining the elements to produce great results. To him more thanto any other one man may be attributed the impulses given in his day toreligion and learning in the United States. A polished gentleman in hismanners; the companion, correspondent, and friend of the most eminent menin Church and State; honored at the early age of thirty-four with thedegree of Doctor of Divinity by the University of Edinburgh, Scotland;sought by scholars and statesmen from abroad as one of the foremost menof his country and time. " The son must have felt keenly the loss of his father so soon after thedeath of his wife. The whole family was a singularly united one, eachmember depending on the others for counsel and advice, and the father, who was but sixty-five when he died, was still vigorous in mind, althoughof delicate constitution. Later in this year Morse managed to spend some time in New Haven, and hepersuaded his mother to seek rest and recuperation in travel, accompanying her as far as Boston and writing to her there on his returnto New Haven. "_September 20, 1826. _ I arrived safely home after leaving you yesterdayand found that neither the house nor the folks had run away. . . . Perseverein your travels, mother, as long as you think it does you good, and tellDick to brush up his best bows and bring home some lady to grace the nowdesolate mansion. " On November 9, 1826, he writes to his mother from New York:-- "Don't think I have forgotten you all at home because I have been soremiss in writing you lately. I feel guilty, however, in not stealingsome little time just to write you one line. I acknowledge my fault, soplease forgive me and I will be a _better boy_ in future. "The fact is I have been engaged for the last three days during all myleisure moments in something unusual with me, --I mean _electioneering_. 'Oh! what a sad boy!' mother will say. 'There he is leaving everything atsixes and sevens, and driving through the streets, and busying himselfabout those _poison politics_. ' Not quite so fast, however. "I have not neglected my own affairs, as you will learn one of thesedays. I have an historical picture to paint, which will occupy me forsome time, for a proprietor of a steamboat which is building inPhiladelphia to be the most splendid ever built. He has engagedhistorical pictures of Allston, Vanderlyn, Sully, and myself, andlandscapes of the principal landscape painters, for a gallery on boardthe boat. I consider this as a new and noble channel for theencouragement of painting, and in such an enterprise and in such companyI shall do my best. "What do you think of sparing me for about one year to visit Paris andRome to finish what I began when in Europe before? My education as apainter is incomplete without it, and the time is rapidly going away whenmy age will render it impossible to profit by such studies, even if Ishould be able, at a future time, to visit Europe again. . . . I can, perhaps, leave my dear little ones at their age better than if they weremore advanced, and, as my views are ultimately to benefit them, I thinkno one will accuse me of neglecting them. If they do, they know butlittle of my feelings towards them. " The mother's answer to this letter has not been preserved, but whethershe dissuaded him from going at that time, or whether other reasonsprevented him, the fact is that he did not start on the voyage to Europe(the return trip proving so momentous to himself and to the world) untilexactly three years later. I shall pass rapidly over these intervening three years. They were yearsof hard work, but of work rewarded by material success and increasinghonor in the community. On May 8, 1827, on the occasion of the first anniversary of the NationalAcademy of Design, Morse, its president, delivered an address before abrilliant audience in the chapel of Columbia College. This address wasconsidered so remarkable that, at the request of the Academy, it waspublished in pamphlet form. It called forth a sharp review in the "NorthAmerican, " which voiced the opinions of those who were hostile to the newAcademy, and who considered the term "National" little short of arrogant. Morse replied to this attack in a masterly manner in the "Journal ofCommerce, " and this also was published in pamphlet form and ended thecontroversy. In the year 1827, Professor James Freeman Dana, of Columbia College, delivered a series of lectures on the subject of electricity at the NewYork Athenæum. Professor Dana was an enthusiast in the study of thatscience, which, at that time, was but in its infancy, and he foresawgreat and beneficial results to mankind from this mysterious force whenit should become more fully understood. Morse, already familiar with the subject from his experiments withProfessor Silliman in New Haven, took a deep interest in these lectures, and he and Professor Dana became warm friends. The latter, on his side agreat admirer of the fine arts, spent many hours in the studio of theartist, discussing with him the two subjects which were of absorbinginterest to them both, art and electricity. In this way Morse becameperfectly familiar with the latest discoveries in electrical science, sothat when, a few years later, his grand conception of a simple andpracticable means of harnessing this mystic agent to the uses of mankindtook form in his brain, it found a field already prepared to receive it. I wish to lay particular emphasis on this point because, in later years, when his claims as an inventor were bitterly assailed in the courts andin scientific circles, it was asserted that he knew nothing whatever ofthe science of electricity at the time of his invention, and that all itsessential features were suggested to him by others. In the year 1828, Morse again changed his quarters, moving to a suite ofrooms at No. 13 Murray Street, close to Broadway, for which he paid a"great rent, " $500, and on May 6 of that year he writes to his mother: "Ever since I left you at New Haven I have been over head and ears inarrangements of every kind. It is the busiest time of the whole year asit regards the National Academy. We have got through the arrangement ofour exhibition and yesterday opened it to the guests of the Academy. Wehad the first people in the city, ladies and gentlemen, thronging theroom all day, and the voice of all seemed to be--'It is the bestexhibition of the kind that has been seen in the city. ' "I am now arranging my rooms; they are very fine ones. I shall be throughin a few days, and then I hope to be able to come up and see you, for Ifeel very anxious about you, my dear mother. I do most sincerelysympathize with you in your troubles and long to come up and take some ofthe care and burden from you, and will do it as soon as my affairs herecan be arranged so that I can leave them without serious detriment tothem. . . . What a siege you must have had with your _help_, as it is moststrangely called in New Haven. I am too aristocratic for such doings as_help_ would make those who live in New Haven endure. Ardently as I amattached to New Haven the plague of _help_ will probably always preventmy living there again, for I would not put up with 'the world turnedupside down, ' and therefore should give offense to their _helpinesses_, and so lead a very uncomfortable life. " From this our suspicion is strengthened that the servant question belongsto no time or country, but is and always has been a perennial andubiquitous problem. "_May 11, 1888. _ I feel very anxious about you, dear mother. I heardthrough Mr. Van Rensselaer that you were better, and I hope that you willyet see many good days on earth and be happy in the affection of yourchildren and friends here, before you go, a little before them, to jointhose in heaven. " While expressing anxiety about his mother's health, he could not haveconsidered her condition critical, for on the 18th of May he writesagain:-- "I did hope so to make my arrangements as to have been with you in NewHaven yesterday and to-day, but I am so situated as to be unable to leavethe city without great detriment to my business. . . . Unless, therefore, there is something of pressing necessity, prudence would dictate to me totake advantage of this season, which has generally been the mostprofitable to others in the profession, and see if I cannot get my shareof something to do. It is a great struggle with me to know what I oughtto do. Your situation and that of the family draw me to New Haven; thestate of my finances keeps me here. I will come, however, if, on thewhole, you think it best. " Again are the records silent as to whether the visit was paid or not, buthis anxiety was well founded, for his mother's appointed time had come, and just ten days later, on the 28th of May, 1828, she died at the age ofsixty-two. Thus within the space of three years the hand of death had removed thethree beings whom Morse loved best. His mother, while, as we have seen, stern and uncompromising in her Puritan principles, yet possessed thefaculty of winning the love as well as the respect of her family andfriends. Dr. Todd said of her home: "An orphan myself and never having ahome, I have gone away from Dr. Morse's house in tears, feeling that sucha home must be more like heaven than anything of which I could conceive. " Mr. Prime, in his biography of Morse, thus pays tribute to her:-- "Two persons more unlike in temperament, it is said, could not have beenunited in love and marriage than the parents of Morse. The husband wassanguine, impulsive, resolute, regardless of difficulties and danger. Shewas calm, judicious, cautious, and reflecting. And she, too, had a willof her own. One day she was expressing to one of the parish her intensedispleasure with the treatment her husband had received, when Dr. Morsegently laid his hand upon her shoulder and said, 'My dear, you know wemust throw the mantle of charity over the imperfections of others. ' Andshe replied with becoming spirit, 'Mr. Morse, charity is not a fool. '" In the summer of 1828, Morse spent some time in central New York, visiting relatives and painting portraits when the occasion offered. Hethus describes a narrow escape from serious injury, or even death, in aletter to his brother Sidney, dated Utica, August 17, 1828:-- "In coming from Whitesboro on Friday I met with an accident and a mostnarrow escape with my life. The horse, which had been tackled into thewagon, was a vicious horse and had several times run away, to the dangerof Mr. Dexter's life and others of the family. I was not aware of this orI should not have consented to go with him, much less to drive himmyself. "I was alone in the wagon with my baggage, and the horse went very wellfor about a mile, when he gradually quickened his pace and then set out, in spite of all check, on the full run. I kept him in the road, determined to let him run himself tired as the only safe alternative; butjust as I came in sight of a piece of the road which had been concealedby an angle, there was a heavy wagon which I must meet so soon that, inorder to avoid it, I must give it the whole road. "This being very narrow, and the ditches and banks on each side veryrough, I instantly made up my mind to a serious accident. As well as thevelocity of the horse would allow me, however, I kept him on the side, rough as it was, for about a quarter of a mile pretty steadily, expecting, however, to upset every minute; when all at once I saw beforeme an abrupt, narrow, deep gully into which the wheels on one side werejust upon the point of going down. It flashed across me in an instantthat, if I could throw the horse down into the ditch, the wheels of thewagon might, perhaps, rest equipoised on each side, and, perhaps, breakthe horse loose from the wagon. "I pulled the rein and accomplished the object in part. The sudden plungeof the horse into the gully broke him loose from the wagon, but it at thesame time turned one of the fore wheels into the gully, which upset thewagon and threw me forwards at the moment when the horse threw up hisheels, just taking off my hat and leaving me in the bottom of the gully. I fell on my left shoulder, and, although muddied from head to foot, Iescaped without any injury whatever; I was not even jarred painfully. Ifound my shoulder a little bruised, my wrist very slightly scratched, andyesterday was a little, and but very little, stiffened in my limbs, andto-day have not the slightest feeling of bruise about me, but think Ifeel better than I have for a long time. Indeed, my health is entirelyrestored; the riding and country air have been the means of restoring me. I have great cause of thankfulness for so much mercy and for such specialpreserving care. " [Illustration: ELIZABETH A. MORSEPainted by Morse] The historian or the biographer who is earnestly desirous of presentingan absolutely truthful picture of men and of events is aided in his taskby taking into account the character of the men who have made history. Hemust ask the question: "Is it conceivable that this man could have actedthus and so under such and such circumstances when his character, asultimately revealed through the perspective of time, has beenestablished? Could Washington and Lincoln, for example, have beenactuated by the motives attributed to them by their enemies?" Like all men who have become shining marks in the annals of history, Morse could not hope to escape calumny, and in later years he was accusedof actions, and motives were imputed to him, which it becomes the duty ofhis biographer to disprove on the broad ground of moral impossibility. Among his letters and papers are many rough drafts of thoughts andobservations on many subjects, interlined and annotated. Some wereafterwards elaborated into letters, articles, or lectures; others seem tohave been the thought of the moment, which he yet deemed worth writingdown, and which, perhaps better than anything else, reveal the truecharacter of the man. The following was written by him in pencil on Sunday, September 6, 1829, at Cooperstown, New York:-- "That temptations surround us at every moment is too evident to requireproof. If they cease from without they still act upon us from withinourselves, and our most secret thoughts may as surely be drawn from thepath of duty by secret temptation, by the admission of evil suggestions, and they will affect our characters as injuriously as those more palpableand tangible temptations that attack our sense. "This life is a state of discipline; a school in which to form character. There is not an event that comes to our knowledge, not a sentence that weread, not a person with whom we converse, not an act of our lives, inshort, not a thought which we conceive, but is acting upon and mouldingthat character into a shape of good or evil; and, however unconscious wemay be of the fact, a thought, casually conceived in the solitariness andsilence and darkness of midnight, may so modify and change the current ofour future conduct that a blessing or a curse to millions may flow fromit. "All our thoughts are mysteriously connected with good or evil. Theirvery habits, too, like the habits of our actions, are strengthened byindulgence, and, according as we indulge the evil or the good, ourcharacters will partake of the moral character of each. But actionsproceed from thoughts; we act as we think. Why should we, then, socautiously guard our actions from impropriety while we give a loose reinto our thoughts, which so certainly, sooner or later, produce theirfruits in our actions? "God in his wisdom has separated at various distances sin and theconsequence of sin. In some instances we see a sin instantly followed byits fruits, as of revenge by murder. In others we see weeks and monthsand years, aye, and ages, too, elapse before the fruits of a single act, the result, perhaps, of a single thought, are seen in all their varietiesof evil. "How long ere the fruits of one sin in Paradise will cease to be visiblein the moral universe? "If this reasoning is correct, I shall but cheat myself in preserving agood moral outward appearance to others if every thought of the heart, inthe most secret retirement, is not carefully watched and checked andguarded from evil; since the casual indulgence of a single evil thoughtin secret may be followed, long after that thought is forgotten by me, and when, perhaps, least expected, by overt acts of evil. "Who, then, shall say that in those pleasures in which we indulge, andwhich by many are called, and apparently are, innocent, there are notlaid the seeds of many a corrupt affection? Who shall say that myinnocent indulgence at the card table or at the theatre, were I inclinedto visit them, may not produce, if not in me a passion for gaming or forlow indulgence, yet in others may encourage these views to their ruin? "Besides, 'Evil communications corrupt good manners, ' and even placesless objectionable are studiously to be avoided. The soul is too preciousto be thus exposed. "Where then is our remedy? In Christ alone. 'Cleanse thou me from secretfaults. Search me, O God, and know my thoughts; try me and know my waysand see if there is any wicked way in me, and lead me in the way which iseverlasting. '" This is but one of many expressions of a similar character which are tobe found in the letters and notes, and which are illuminating. Morse was now making ready for another trip to Europe. He had hoped, whenhe returned home in 1815, to stay but a year or two on this side and thento go back and continue his artistic education, which he by no meansconsidered complete, in France and Italy. We have seen how onecircumstance after another interfered to prevent the realization of thisplan, until now, after the lapse of fourteen years, he found it possible. His wife and his parents were dead; his children were being carefullycared for by relatives, the daughter Susan by her mother's sister, Mrs. Pickering, in Concord, New Hampshire, and the boys by their uncle, Richard C. Morse, who was then happily married and living in the familyhome in New Haven. The National Academy of Design was now established on a firm footing andcould spare his guiding hand for a few years. He had saved enough moneyto defray his expenses on a strictly economical basis, but, to makeassurance doubly sure, he sought and received commissions from hisfriends and patrons in America for copies of famous paintings, or fororiginal works of his own, so that he could sail with a clear conscienceas regarded his finances. His friends were uniformly encouraging in furthering his plan, and hereceived many letters of cordial good wishes and of introduction toprominent men abroad. I shall include the following from John A. Dix, atthat time a captain in the army, but afterwards a general, and Governorof New York, who, although he had been an unsuccessful suitor for thehand of Miss Walker, Morse's wife, bore no ill-will towards his rival, but remained his firm friend to the end:-- COOPERSTOWN, 27th October, 1829. MY DEAR SIR, --I have only time to say that I have been absent in anadjacent county and fear there is not time to procure a letter for you toMr. Rives before the 1st. I have written to Mr. Van Buren and he willdoubtless send you a letter before the 8th. Therefore make arrangementsto have it sent after you if you sail on the 1st. I need not say I shall be very happy to hear from you during yoursojournment abroad. Especially tell me what your impressions are when youturn from David's picture with Romulus and Tatius in the foreground, andPaul Veronese's Marriage at Cana directly opposite, at the entrance ofthe picture gallery in the Louvre. We are all well and all desire to be remembered. I have only time to addmy best wishes for your happiness and prosperity. Yours truly and constantly, JOHN A. DIX. The Mr. Rives mentioned in the letter was at that time our Minister toFrance, and the Mr. Van Buren was Martin Van Buren, then Secretary ofState in President Jackson's Cabinet, and afterwards himself President ofthe United States. The following is from the pencilled draft of a letter or the beginning ofa diary which was not finished, but ends abruptly:-- "On the 8th November, 1829, I embarked from New York in the shipNapoleon, Captain Smith, for Liverpool. The Napoleon is one of thosesplendid packets, which have been provided by the enterprise of ourmerchants, for the accommodation of persons whose business or pleasurerequires a visit to Europe or America. "Precisely at the appointed hour, ten o'clock, the steamboat with thepassengers and their baggage left the Whitehall dock for our gallantship, which was lying to above the city, heading up the North River, careening to the brisk northwest gale, and waiting with apparentimpatience for us, like a spirited horse curvetting under the rein of hismaster, and waiting but his signal to bound away. A few moments broughtus to her side, and a few more saw the steamboat leave us, and the sadfarewells to relatives and friends, who had thus far accompanied us, weremutually exchanged by the waving of hands and of handkerchiefs. The'Ready about, ' and soon after the 'Mainsail haul' of the pilot wereanswered by the cheering 'Ho, heave, ho' of the sailors, and, with thefairest wind that ever blew, we fast left the spires and shores of thegreat city behind us. In two hours we discharged our pilot to the southof Sandy Hook, with his pocket full of farewell letters to our friends, and then stood on our course for England. "Four days brought us to the Banks of Newfoundland, one third of ourpassage. Many of our passengers were sanguine in their anticipations ofour making the shortest passage ever known, and, had our subsequentprogress been as great as at first, we should doubtless have accomplishedthe voyage in thirteen days, but calms and head winds for three days onthe Banks have frustrated our expectations. "There is little that is interesting in the incidents of a voyage. Theindescribable listlessness of seasickness, the varied state of feelingwhich changes with the wind and weather, have often been described. TheseI experienced in all their force. From the time we left the Banks ofNewfoundland we had a continued succession of head winds, and when withinone fair day's sail of land, we were kept off by severe gales directlyahead for five successive days and nights, during which time the uneasymotion of the ship deprived us all of sleep, except in broken intervalsof an half-hour at a time. We neither saw nor spoke any vessel until theevening of the ----, when we descried through the darkness a large vesselon an opposite course from ourselves; we first saw her cabin lights. Itwas blowing a gale of wind before which we were going on our own courseat the rate of eleven miles an hour. It was, of course, impossible tospeak her, but, to let her know that she had company on the wide ocean, we threw up a rocket which for splendor of effect surpassed any that Ihad ever seen on shore. It was thrown from behind the mizzenmast, overwhich it shot arching its way over the main and foremasts, illuminatingevery sail and rope, and then diving into the water, piercing the wave, it again shot upwards and vanished in a loud report. To our companionship the effect must have been very fine. "The sea is often complained of for its monotony, and yet there is greatvariety in the appearance of the sea. " Here it ends, but we learn a little more of the voyage and the landing inEngland from a letter to a cousin in America, written in Liverpool, onDecember 5, 1829:-- "I arrived safely in England yesterday after a long, but, on the whole, pleasant, passage of twenty-six days. I write you from the inn (theKing's Arms Hotel) at which I put up eighteen years ago. This inn is theone at which Professor Silliman stayed when he travelled in England, andwhich he mentions in his travels. The old Frenchman whom he mentions Iwell remember when I was here before. I enquired for him and am told heis still living, but I have not seen him. "There is a large black man, a waiter in the house, who is quite apolished man in his manners, and an elderly white man, with white hair, who looks so respectable and dignified that one feels a little awkward atfirst in ordering him to do this or that service; and the chambermaidslook so venerable and matronly that to ask them for a pitcher of waterseems almost rude to them. But I am in a land where domestic servants arethe best in the world. No servant aspires to a higher station, but feelsa pride in making himself the first in that station. I notice this, forour own country presents a melancholy contrast in this particular. " Here follows a description of the voyage, and he continues:-- "Yesterday we anchored off the Floating Light, sixteen miles from thecity, unable to reach the dock on account of the wind, but thepost-office steamboat (or steamer, as they call them here) came to usfrom Liverpool to take the letter-bags, and I with other passengers goton board, and at twelve o'clock I once more placed my foot on Englishground. "The weather is true English weather, thick, smoky, and damp. I can seenothing of the general appearance of the city. The splendid docks, whichwere building when I was here before, are now completed and extend alongthe river. They are really splendid; everything about them is solid andsubstantial, of stone and iron, and on so large a scale. "I have passed my baggage through the custom-house, and on Monday Iproceed on my journey to London through Birmingham and Oxford. MissLeslie, a sister of my friend Leslie of London, is my _compagnon devoyage_. She is a woman of fine talents and makes my journey less tediousand irksome than it would otherwise be. . . . I have a long journey beforeme yet ere I reach Rome, where I intended to be by Christmas Day, but mylong voyage will probably defeat my intention. " CHAPTER XV DECEMBER 6, 1829--FEBRUARY 6, 1830 Journey from Liverpool to London by coach. --Neatness of the cottages. --Trentham Hall. --Stratford-on-Avon. --Oxford. --London. --Charles R. Leslie. --Samuel Rogers. --Seated with Academicians at Royal Academy lecture. --Washington Irving. --Turner. --Leaves London for Dover. --CanterburyCathedral. --Detained at Dover by bad weather. --Incident of a formervisit. --Channel steamer. --Boulogne-sur-Mer. --First impressions ofFrance. --Paris. --The Louvre. --Lafayette. --Cold in Paris. --ContinentalSunday. --Leaves Paris for Marseilles in diligence. --Intense cold. --Dijon. --French funeral. --Lyons. --The Hôtel Dieu. --Avignon. --Catholicchurch services. --Marseilles. --Toulon. --The navy yard and the galleyslaves. --Disagreeable experience at an inn. --The Riviera. --Genoa. Morse was now thirty-eight years old, in the full vigor of manhood, of aspare but well-knit frame and of a strong constitution. While all hislife, and especially in his younger years, he was a sufferer fromoccasional severe headaches, he never let these interfere with the workon hand, and, by leading a sane and rational life, he escaped all seriousillnesses. He was not a total abstainer as regards either wine ortobacco, but was moderate in the use of both; a temperance advocate inthe true sense of the word. His character had now been moulded both by prosperity and adversity. Hehad known the love of wife and children, and of father and mother, andthe cup of domestic happiness had been dashed from his lips. He hadexperienced the joy of the artist in successful creation, and thebitterness of the sensitive soul irritated by the ignorant, and all butoverwhelmed by the struggle for existence. He had felt the supreme joy ofswaying an audience by his eloquence, and he had endured with fortitudethe carping criticism of the envious. Through it all, through prosperityand through adversity, his hopeful, buoyant nature had triumphed. Prosperity had not spoiled him, and adversity had but served to refine. He felt that he had been given talents which he must utilize to theutmost, that he must be true to himself, and that, above all, he muststrive in every way to benefit his fellow men. This motive we find recurring again and again in his correspondence andin his ultimate notes. Not, "What can I do for myself?" but "What can Ido for mankind?" Never falsely humble, but, on the contrary, properlyproud of his achievements, jealous of his own good name and fame andeager _honestly_ to acquire wealth, he yet ever put the public good abovehis private gain. He was now again in Europe, the goal of his desires for many years, andhe was about to visit the Continent, where he had never been. Paris, withher treasures of art, Italy, the promised land of every artist, laybefore him. We shall miss the many intimate letters to his wife and to his parents, but we shall find others to his brothers and to his friends, perhaps ashade less unreserved, but still giving a clear account of hiswanderings, and, from a mass of little notebooks and sketch-books, we canfollow him on his pilgrimage and glean some keen observations on thepeoples and places visited by him. It must be remembered that this wasstill the era of the stage-coach and the diligence, and that it took manydays to accomplish a journey which is now made in almost the same numberof hours. On Christmas Day, 1829, he begins a letter from Dover to a favoritecousin, Mrs. Margaret Roby, of Utica, New York:-- "When I left Liverpool I took my seat upon the outside of the coach, inorder to see as much as possible of the country through which I was topass. Unfortunately the fog and smoke were so dense that I could seeobjects but a few yards from the road. Occasionally, indeed, the fogwould become less dense, and we could see the fine lawns of the seats ofthe nobility and gentry, which were scattered on our route, and whichstill retained their verdure. Now and then the spire and towers of someancient village church rose out of the leafless trees, beautifully simplein their forms, and sometimes clothed to the very tops with the evergreenivy. It was severely cold; my eyebrows, hair, cap, and the fur of mycloak were soon coated with frost, but I determined to keep my seatthough I suffered some from the cold. "Their fine natural health, or the frosty weather, gave to thecomplexions of the peasantry, particularly the females and children, abeautiful rosy bloom. Through all the villages there was the appearanceof great comfort and neatness, --a neatness, however, very different fromours. Their nicely thatched cottages bore all the marks of greatantiquity, covered with brilliant green moss like velvet, and round thedoors and windows were trained some of the many kinds of evergreen vineswhich abound here. Most of them also had a trim courtyard before theirdoors, planted with laurel and holly and box, and sometimes a yew cutinto some fantastic shape. The whole appearance of the villages was neatand venerable; like some aged matron who, with all her wrinkles, herstooping form, and grey locks, preserves the dignity of cleanliness inher ancient but becoming costume. "At Trentham we passed one of the seats of the Marquis of Stafford, Trentham Hall. Here the Marquis has a fine gallery of pictures, and amongthem Allston's famous picture of 'Uriel in the Sun. ' "I slept the first night in Birmingham, which I had no time to see onaccount of darkness, smoke, and fog: three most inveterate enemies to theseekers of the picturesque and of antiquities. In the morning, beforedaylight, I resumed my journey towards London. At Stratford-on-Avon Ibreakfasted, but in such haste as not to be able to visit again the houseof Shakespeare's birth, or his tomb. This house, however, I visited whenin England before. At Oxford, the city of so many classicalrecollections, I stopped but a few moments to dine. I was here also whenbefore in England. It is a most splendid city; its spires and domes andtowers and pinnacles, rising from amid the trees, give it a magnificentappearance as you approach it. "Before we reached Oxford we passed through Woodstock and Blenheim, theseat of the Duke of Marlborough, whose splendid estates are at presentsuffering from the embarrassment of the present Duke, who has ruined hisfortunes by his fondness for play. "Darkness came on after leaving Oxford; I saw nothing until arriving inthe vicinity of the great metropolis, which has, for many miles beforeyou enter it, the appearance of a continuous village. We saw thebrilliant gas-lights of its streets, and our coach soon joined the throngof vehicles that rattled over its pavements. I could scarcely realizethat I was once more in London after fourteen years' absence. "My first visit was to my old friend and fellow pupil, Leslie, who seemedoverjoyed to see me and has been unremitting in his attentions during mystay in London. Leslie I found, as I expected, in high favor with thehighest classes of England's noblemen and literary characters. Hisreputation is well deserved and will not be ephemeral. "I received an invitation to breakfast from Samuel Rogers, Esq. , thecelebrated poet, which I accepted with my friend Leslie. Mr. Rogers isthe author of 'Pleasures of Memory, ' of 'Italy, ' and other poems. He hasnot the proverbial lot of the poet, --that of being poor, --for he is oneof the wealthiest bankers and lives in splendid style. His collection ofpictures is very select, chosen by himself with great taste. "I attended, a few evenings since, the lecture on anatomy at the RoyalAcademy, where I was introduced to some of the most distinguishedartists; to Mr. Shee, the poet and author as well as painter; to Mr. Howard, the secretary of the Academy; to Mr. Hilton, the keeper; to Mr. Stothard, the librarian; and several others. I expected to have met andbeen introduced to Sir Thomas Lawrence, the president, but he was absent, and I have not had the pleasure of seeing him. I was invited to a seatwith the Academicians, as was also Mr. Cole, a member of our Academy inNew York. I was gratified in seeing America so well represented in thepainters Leslie and Newton. The lecturer also paid, in his lecture, ahigh compliment to Allston by a deserved panegyric, and by severalquotations from his poems, illustrative of principles which he advanced. "After the lecture I went home to tea with Newton, accompanied by Leslie, where I found our distinguished countryman, Washington Irving, ourSecretary of Legation, and W. E. West, another American painter, whoseportrait of Lord Byron gave him much celebrity. I passed a very pleasantevening, of course. "The next day I visited the National Gallery of pictures, as yet butsmall, but containing some of the finest pictures in England. Among themis the celebrated 'Raising of Lazarus' by Sebastian del Piombo, for whicha nobleman of this country offered to the late proprietor sixteenthousand pounds sterling, which sum was refused. I visited also Mr. Turner, the best landscape painter living, and was introduced to him. . . . "I did not see so much of London or its curiosities as I should have doneat another season of the year. The greater part of the time was night--literally night; for, besides being the shortest days of the year (it notbeing light until eight o'clock and dark again at four), the smoke andfog have been most of the time so dense that darkness has for many daysoccupied the hours of daylight. . . . "On the 22d inst. , Tuesday, I left London, after having obtained in dueform my passports, for the Continent, in company with J. Town, Esq. , andN. Jocelyn, Esq. , American friends, intending to pass the night atCanterbury, thirty-six miles from London. The day was very unpleasant, very cold, and snowing most of the time. At Blackheath we saw the palacein which the late unfortunate queen of George IV resided. On the heathamong the bushes is a low furze with which it is in part covered. Therewere encamped in their miserable blanket huts a gang of gypsies. Nowigwams of the Oneidas ever looked so comfortless. On the road weovertook a gypsy girl with a child in her arms, both having the stamp ofthat singular race strongly marked upon their features; black hair andsparkling black eyes, with a nut-brown complexion and cheeks of russetred, and not without a shrewd intelligence in their expression. "At about nine o'clock we arrived at the Guildhall Tavern in thecelebrated and ancient city of Canterbury. Early in the morning, as soonas we had breakfasted, we visited the superb cathedral. This stupendouspile is one of the most distinguished Gothic structures in the world. Itis not only interesting from its imposing style of architecture, but fromits numerous historical associations. The first glimpse we caught of itwas through and over a rich, decayed gateway to the enclosure of thecathedral grounds. After passing the gate the vast pile--with its threegreat towers and innumerable turrets, and pinnacles, and buttresses, andarches, and painted windows--rose in majesty before us. The grand centretower, covered with a grey moss, seemed like an immense mass of thePalisades, struck out with all its regular irregularity, and placed abovethe surrounding masses of the same grey rocks. The bell of the greattower was tolling for morning service, and yet so distant, from itsheight, that it was scarcely heard upon the pavement below. "We entered the door of one of the towers and came immediately into thenave of the church. The effect of the long aisles and towering, clusteredpillars and richly carved screens of a Gothic church upon the imaginationcan scarcely be described--the emotion is that of awe. "A short procession was quickly passing up the steps of the choir, consisting of the beadle, or some such officer, with his wand of office, followed by ten boys in white surplices. Behind these were theprebendaries and other officers of the church; one thin and pale, anotherportly and round, with powdered hair and sleepy, dull, heavy expressionof face, much like the face that Hogarth has chosen for the 'Preacher tohis Sleepy Congregation. ' This personage we afterward heard was LordNelson, the brother of the celebrated Nelson and the heir to his title. "The service was read in a hurried and commonplace manner to about thirtyindividuals, most of whom seemed to be the necessary assistants at theceremonies. The effect of the voices in the responses and the chanting ofthe boys, reverberating through the aisles and arches and recesses of thechurch, was peculiarly imposing, but, when the great organ struck in, theemotion of grandeur was carried to its height, --I say nothing ofdevotion. I did not pretend on this occasion to join in it; I own that mythoughts as well as my eyes were roaming to other objects, and gatheringaround me the thousand recollections of scenic splendor, of terror, ofbigotry, and superstition which were acted in sight of the very walls bywhich I was surrounded. Here the murder of Thomas à Becket wasperpetrated; there was his miracle-working shrine, visited by pilgrimsfrom all parts of Christendom, and enriched with the most costly jewelsthat the wealth of princes could purchase and lavish upon it; the verysteps, worn into deep cavities by the knees of the devotees as theyapproached the shrine, were ascended by us. There stood the tomb of HenryIV and his queen; and here was the tomb of Edward, the Black Prince, witha bronze figure of the prince, richly embossed and enamelled, recliningupon the top, and over the canopy were suspended the surcoat and casque, the gloves of mail and shield, with which he was accoutred when he foughtthe famous battle of Crécy. There also stood the marble chair in whichthe Saxon kings were crowned, and in which, with the natural desire thatall seemed to have in such cases, I could not avoid seating myself. Fromthis chair, placed at one end of the nave, is seen to best advantage thelength of the church, five hundred feet in extent. "After the service I visited more at leisure the tombs and othercuriosities of the church. The precise spot on which Archbishop Becketwas murdered is shown, but the spot on which his head fell on thepavement was cut out as a relic and sent to Rome, and the place filled inwith a fresh piece of stone, about five inches square. . . . "In the afternoon we left Canterbury and proceeded to Dover, intending toembark the next morning (Thursday, December 24) for Calais or Boulogne inthe steamer. The weather, however, was very unpromising in the morning, being thick and foggy and apparently preparing for a storm. We thereforemade up our minds to stay, hoping the next day would be more favorable;but Friday, Christmas Day, came with a most violent northeast gale andsnowstorm. Saturday the 26th, Sunday the 27th, and, at this moment, Monday the 28th, the storm is more violent than ever, the streets areclogged with snow, and we are thus embargoed completely for we know nothow long a time to come. "Notwithstanding the severity of the weather on Thursday, we all venturedout through the wind and snow to visit Dover Castle, situated upon thebleak cliffs to the north of the town. . . . "The castle, with its various towers and walls and outworks, has been theconstant care of the Government for ages. Here are the remains of everyage from the time of the Romans to the present. About the centre of theenclosure stand two ancient ruins, the one a tower built by the Romans, thirty-six years after Christ, and the other a rude church built by theSaxons in the sixth century. Other remains of towers and walls indicatethe various kinds of defensive and offensive war in different ages, fromthe time when the round or square tower, with its loopholes for thearchers and crossbowmen, and gates secured by heavy portcullis, were asubstantial defence, down to the present time, when the bastion ofregular sides advances from the glacis, mounted with modern ordnance, keeping at a greater distance the hostile besiegers. "Through the glacis in various parts are sally-ports, from one of which, opening towards the road to Ramsgate, I well remember seeing a corporal'sguard issue, about fifteen years ago, to take possession of me and mysketch-book, as I sat under a hedge at some distance to sketch thepicturesque towers of this castle. Somewhat suspicious of theirintentions, I left my retreat, and, by a circuitous route into the town, made my escape; not, however, without ascertaining from behind a distanthedge that I was actually the object of their expedition. They went tothe spot where I had been sitting, made a short search, and then returnedto the castle through the same sally-port. "At that time (a time of war not only with France but America also) thestrictest watch was kept, and to have been caught making the slightestsketch of a fortification would have subjected me to much trouble. Timesare now changed, and had Jack Frost (the only commander of rigor now atthe castle) permitted, I might have sketched any part of the interior orexterior. " "_Boulogne-sur-Mer, France, December 29, 1829. _ This morning at teno'clock, after our tedious detention, we embarked from Dover in a steamerfor this place instead of Calais. I mentioned the steamer, but, cousin, if you have formed any idea of elegance, or comfort, or speed inconnection with the name of steamer from seeing our fine steamboats, andhave imagined that English or French boats are superior to ours, you mayas well be undeceived. I know of no description of packet-boats in ourwaters bad enough to convey the idea. They are small, black, dirty, confined things, which would be suffered to rot at the wharves for wantof the least custom from the lowest in our country. You may judge of theextent of the accommodations when I tell you that there is in them butone cabin, six feet six inches high, fourteen feet long, eleven feetwide, containing eight berths. "Our passage was, fortunately, short, and we arrived in the dominions of'His Most Christian Majesty' Charles X at five o'clock. The transitionfrom a country where one's own language is spoken to one where theaccents are strange; from a country where the manners and habits aresomewhat allied to our own to one where everything is different, even tothe most trifling article of dress, is very striking on landing after soshort an interval from England to France. "The pier-head at our landing was filled with human beings in strangecostume, from the grey _surtout_ and belt of the _gendarmes_ to the broadtwilled and curiously plaited caps of the masculine women; which latterbeings, by the way, are the licensed porters of baggage to thecustom-house. " "_Paris, January 7, 1830. _ Here have I been in this great capital of theContinent since the first day of the year. I shall remember my firstvisit to Paris from the circumstance that, at the dawn of the day of thenew year, we passed the Porte Saint-Denis into the narrow and dirtystreets of the great metropolis. "The Louvre was the first object we visited. Our passports obtained usready admittance, and, although our fingers and feet were almost frozen, we yet lingered three hours in the grand gallery of pictures. Indeed, itis a long walk simply to pass up and down the long hall, the end of whichfrom the opposite end is scarcely visible, but is lost in the mist ofdistance. On the walls are twelve hundred and fifty of some of the _chefsd'oeuvre_ of painting. Here I have marked out several which I shall copyon my return from Italy. "I have my residence at present at the Hôtel de Lille, which is situatedvery conveniently in the midst of all the most interesting objects ofcuriosity to a stranger in Paris, --the palace of the Tuileries, thePalais Royal, the Bibliothèque Royale, or Royal Library, and numerousother places, all within a few paces of us. On New Year's Day theequipages of the nobility and foreign ambassadors, etc. , who paid theirrespects to the King and the Duke of Orléans, made considerable displayin the Place du Carrousel and in the court of the Tuileries. "At an exhibition of manufactures of porcelain, tapestry, etc. , in theLouvre, where were some of the most superb specimens of art in the worldin these articles, we also saw the Duchesse de Berri. She is the motherof the little Duc de Bordeaux, who, you know, is the heir apparent to thecrown of France. She was simply habited in a blue pelisse and bluebonnet, and would not be distinguished in her appearance from the crowdexcept by her attendants in livery. "I cannot close, however, without telling you what a delightful evening Ipassed evening before last at General Lafayette's. He had a soirée onthat night at which there were a number of Americans. When I went in heinstantly recognized me; took me by both hands; said he was expecting tosee me in France, having read in the American papers that I had embarked. He met me apparently with great cordiality, then introduced me to each ofhis family, to his daughters, to Madame Lasterie and her two daughters(very pretty girls) and to Madame Rémusat, [1] and two daughters of hisson, G. W. Lafayette, also very accomplished and beautiful girls. TheGeneral inquired how long I intended to stay in France, and pressed me tocome and pass some time at La Grange when I returned from Italy. GeneralLafayette looks very well and seems to have the respect of all the bestmen in France. At his soirée I saw the celebrated Benjamin Constant, oneof the most distinguished of the Liberal party in France. He is tall andthin with a very fair, white complexion, and long white, silken hair, moving with all the vigor of a young man. " [Footnote 1: This was not, of course, the famous Madame de Rémusat;probably her daughter-in-law. ] In a letter to his brothers written on the same day, January 7th, hesays:-- "If I went no farther and should now return, what I have already seen andstudied would be worth to me all the trouble and expense thus farincurred. I am more and more satisfied that my expedition was wiselyplanned. "You cannot conceive how the cold is felt in Paris, and, indeed, in allFrance. Not that their climate is so intensely cold as ours, but theirprovision against the cold is so bad. Fuel is excessively high; theirfireplaces constructed on the worst possible plan, looking like greatovens dug four or five feet into the wall, wasting a vast deal of heat;and then the doors and windows are far from tight; so that, altogether, Paris in winter is not the most comfortable place in the world. "Mr. Town and I, and probably Mr. Jocelyn, set out for Italy on Monday bythe way of Chalons-sur-Saone, Lyons, Avignon, and Nice. I long to get toRome and Naples that I may commence to paint in a warm climate, and sokeep warm weather with me to France again. . . . "I don't know what to do about writing letters for the 'Journal ofCommerce. ' I fear it will consume more of my time than the thing isworth, and will be such a hindrance to my professional studies that Imust, on the whole, give up the thought of it. My time here is worth aguinea a minute in the way of my profession. I could undoubtedly writesome interesting letters for them, but I do not feel the same ease inwriting for the public that I do in writing to a friend, and, incorrecting my language for the press, I feel that it is going to consumemore of my time than I can spare. I will write if I can, but they mustnot expect it, for I find my pen and pencil are enemies to each other. Imust write less and paint more. My advantages for study never appeared sogreat, and I never felt so ardent a desire to improve them. " Morse spent about two weeks in Paris visiting churches, picturegalleries, palaces, and other show places. He finds the giraffe orcamelopard the most interesting animal at the Jardin des Plantes, and hedislikes a ceiling painted by Gros: "It is allegorical, which is a classof painting I detest. " He deplores the Continental Sunday: "Oh! that weappreciated in America the value of our Sabbath; a Sabbath of rest fromlabor; a Sabbath of moral and religious instruction; a Sabbath thegreatest barrier to those floods of immorality which have in times pastdeluged this devoted country in blood, and will again do it unless theSabbath gains its ascendancy once more. " From an undated and unfinished draft of a letter to his cousin, Mrs. Roby, we learn something of his journey from Paris to Rome, or rather ofthe first part of it:-- "I wrote you from Paris giving you an account of my travels to that city, and I now improve the first moments of leisure since to continue myjournal. After getting our passports signed by at least half a dozenambassadors preparatory to our long journey, we left Paris on Wednesday, January 13, at eight o'clock, for Dijon, in the diligence. The weatherwas very cold, and we travelled through a very uninteresting country. Itseemed like a frozen ocean, the road being over an immense plain unbrokenby trees or fences. "We stopped a few moments at Melun, at Joigny and Tonnerre, which latterplace was quite pretty with a fine-looking Gothic church. We found thevillages from Paris thus far much neater and in better style than thoseon the road from Boulogne. "Our company consisted of Mr. Town, of New York, Mr. Jocelyn, of NewHaven, a very pretty Frenchwoman, and myself. The Frenchwoman was quite acharacter; she could not talk English nor could we talk French, and yetwe were talking all the time, and were able to understand and beunderstood. "At four o'clock the next morning we _dined!!_ at Montbar, which place weentered after much detention by the snow. It was so deep that we wererepeatedly stopped for some time. At a picturesque little village, calledVal de Luzon, where we changed horses, the country began to assume adifferent character. It now became mountainous, and, had the season beenpropitious, many beautiful scenes for the pencil would have presentedthemselves. As it was, the forms of the mountains and the deep valleys, with villages snugly situated at the bottom, were grateful to the eyeamidst the white shroud which everywhere covered the landscape. We couldbut now and then catch a glimpse of the scenery through our coach windowby thawing a place in the thickly covered glass, which was so plated withthe arborescent frost as not to yield to the warmth of the sun at midday. "We arrived at Dijon at nine o'clock on Saturday evening, after threedays and two nights of fatiguing riding. The diligence is, on the whole, a comfortable carriage for travelling. I can scarcely give you any ideaof its construction; it is so unlike in many respects to our stage-coach. It is three carriage-bodies together upon one set of wheels. The forwardpart is called the _coupé_, which holds but three persons, and, fromhaving windows in front so that the country is seen as you travel, is themost expensive. The middle carriage is the largest, capable of holdingsix persons, and is called the _intérieur_. The other, called the_derrière_, is the cheapest, but is generally filled with low people. The_intérieur_ is so large and so well cushioned that it is easy to sleep init ordinarily, and, had it not been for the sudden stops occasioned bythe clogging of the wheels in the snow, we should have had very goodrest; but the discordant music made by the wheels as they ground thefrozen snow, sounding like innumerable instruments, mostly discordant, but now and then concordant, prevented our sound sleep. "The cold we found as severe as any I have usually experienced inAmerica. The snow is as deep upon the hills, being piled up on each sideof the road five or six feet high. The water in our pitchers froze by thefireside, and the glass on the windows, even in rooms comfortably warmed, was encrusted with arborescent frost. The floors, too, of all the roomsare paved with bricks or tiles, and, although comfortable in summer, arefar from desirable in such a winter. "At Dijon we stopped over the Sabbath, for the double purpose of avoidingtravelling on that day and from really needing a day of rest. On Sundaymorning we enquired of our landlord, Mons. Ripart, of the Hôtel du Parc, for a Protestant church, and were informed that there was not any in theplace. We learned, however, afterwards that there was one, but too lateto profit by the information. We walked out in the cold to find somechurch, and, entering a large, irregular Gothic structure, much out ofrepair, we pressed towards the altar where the funeral service of theCatholic Church was performing over a corpse which lay before it. Thepriests, seven or eight in number, were in the midst of their ceremonies. They had their hair shorn close in front, but left long behind and at thesides, and powdered, and, while walking, covered partially with a small, black, pyramidal velvet cap with a tuft at the top. While singing theservice they held long, lighted wax tapers in their hands. There was muchceremony, but scarcely anything that was imposing; its heartlessness wasso apparent, especially in the conduct of some of the assistants, that itseemed a solemn mockery. One in particular, who seemed to pride himselfon the manner in which he vociferated 'Amen, ' was casting his eyes amongthe crowd, winking and laughing at various persons, and, from theextravagance of his manners, bawling out most irreverently and closing bylaughing, I wondered that he was not perceived and rebuked by thepriests. "As the procession left the church it was headed by an officer bearing apontoon;[1] then one bearing the silver crucifix; then eight or ten boyswith lighted wax tapers by the side of the corpse; then followed thepriests, six or eight in number, and then the relatives and friends ofthe deceased. At the grave the priests and assistants chanted a moment, the coffin was lowered, the earth thrown upon it, and then an elderpriest muttered something over the grave, and, with an instrumentconsisting of a silver ball with a small handle, made the sign of thecross over the body, which ceremony was repeated by each one in theprocession, to whom in succession the instrument was handed. [Footnote 1: This must be a mistake. ] "There were, indeed, two or three real mourners. One young man inparticular, to whom the female might have been related as wife or sister, showed all the signs of heartfelt grief. It did not break out intoextravagant gesture or loud cries, but the tears, as they flowed down hismanly face, seemed to be forced out by the agony within, which he in vainendeavored to suppress. The struggle to restrain them was manifest, and, as he made the sign of the cross at the grave in his turn, the feeblenesswith which he performed the ceremony showed that the anguish of his hearthad almost overcome his physical strength. I longed to speak to him andto sympathize with him, but my ignorance of the language of his countrylocked me out from any such purpose. . . . "Accustomed to the proper and orderly manner of keeping the Sabbath souniversal in our country, there are many things that will strike anAmerican not only as singular but disgusting. While in Paris we found itto be customary, not only on week days but also on the Sabbath, to havemusicians introduced towards the close of dinner, who play and sing allkinds of songs. We supposed that this custom was a peculiarity of thecapital, but this day after dinner a hand-organ played waltzes and songs, and, as if this were not enough, a performer on the guitar succeeded, playing songs, while two or three persons with long cards filled withspecimens of natural history--lobsters, crabs, and shells of variouskinds--were busy in displaying their handiwork to us, and each concludedhis part of the ceremony by presenting a little cup for a contribution. " The letter ends here, and, as I have found but few more of that year, wemust depend on his hurriedly written notebooks for a further record ofhis wanderings. Leaving Dijon on January 18, Morse and his companions continued theirjourney through Châlons-sur-Saone, to Macon and Lyons, which they reachedlate at night. The next two days were spent in viewing the sights ofLyons, which are described at length in his journal. Most of these notesI shall omit. Descriptions of places and of scenery are generallytiresome, except to the authors of them, and I shall transcribe only suchportions as have a more than ordinary personal or historic interest. Forinstance the following entry is characteristic of Morse's simplereligious faith:-- "From the Musee we went to the Hôtel Dieu, a hospital on a magnificentand liberal scale. The apartments for the sick were commodiously andneatly arranged. In one of them were two hundred and twelve cots, all ofwhich showed a pale or fevered face upon the pillow. The attendants werewomen called 'Sisters of Charity, ' who have a peculiar costume. These arebenevolent women who (some of them of rank and wealth) devote themselvesto ministering to the comfort and necessities of the wretched. "Benevolence is a trait peculiarly feminine. It is seen among women inall countries and all religions, and although true religion sets out thisjewel in the greatest beauty, yet superstition and false religions cannotentirely destroy its lustre. It seems to be one of those virtuespermitted in a special manner by the Father of all good to survive theruins of sin on earth, and to withstand the attacks of Satan in hisattempts on the happiness of man; and to woman in a marked manner He hasconfided the keeping of this virtue. She was first in the transgressionbut last at the cross. " Leaving Lyons at four o'clock on the morning of the 22d, they journeyedslowly towards Avignon, delayed by the condition of the roads covered byan unusual fall of snow which was now melting under the breath of a warmbreeze from the south. On the way they pass "between the two hills atelegraph making signals. " This was, of course, a semaphore by means ofwhich visual signals were made. Reaching Avignon on the night of the 23d, they went the next day, whichwas Sunday, in search of a Protestant church, but none was to be found inthis ancient city of the Popes, so they followed a fine military band tothe church of St. Agricola and attended the services there, the bandparticipating and making most glorious music. Morse, with his Puritan background and training, was not much edified bythe ritual of the Catholic Church, and, after describing it, he adds:-- "I looked around the church to ascertain what was the effect upon themultitude assembled. The females, kneeling in their chairs, many withtheir prayer-books reading during the whole ceremony, seemed part of thetime engaged in devotional exercises. Far be it from me to say there werenot some who were actually devout, hard as it is to conceive of such athing; but this I will say, that everything around them, instead ofaiding devotion, was calculated entirely to destroy it. The imaginationwas addressed by every avenue; music and painting pressed into theservice of--not religion but the contrary--led the mind away from thecontemplation of all that is practical in religion to the charms of meresense. No instruction was imparted; none seems ever to be intended. Whatbut ignorance can be expected when such a system prevails?. . . "Last evening we were delighted with some exquisite sacred music, sungapparently by men's voices only, and slowly passing under our windows. The whole effect was enchanting; the various parts were so harmoniouslyadapted and the taste with which these unknown minstrels strengthened andsoftened their tones gave us, with the recollection of the music at thechurch, which we had heard in the morning, a high idea of the musicaltalent of this part of the world. We have observed more beautiful facesamong the women in a single day in Avignon than during the two weeks wewere in Paris. " After a three days' rest in Avignon, visiting the palace of the Popes andother objects of interest, and being quite charmed with the city as awhole and with the Hôtel de l'Europe in particular, the little party leftfor Marseilles by way of Aix. The air grows balmier as they near theMediterranean, and they are delighted with the vineyards and the olivegroves. The first sight of the blue sea and of the beautiful harbor ofMarseilles rouses the enthusiasm of the artist, and some days are spentin exploring the city. The journal continues:-- "_Thursday, January 28. _ Took our seats in the Malle Poste for Toulon andexperienced one of those vexations in delay which travellers must expectsometimes to find. We had been told by the officer that we must be readyto go at one o'clock. We were, of course, ready at that time, but notonly were we not called at one, but we waited in suspense until sixo'clock in the evening before we were called, and before we left the cityit was seven o'clock; thus consuming a half-day of daylight which we hadpromised ourselves to see the scenery, and bringing all our travelling inthe night, which we wished specially to avoid. Besides this, we foundourselves in a little, miserable, jolting vehicle that did not, like thediligence, suffer us to sleep. "Thus we left Marseilles, pursuing our way through what seemed to us awild country, with many a dark ravine on our roadside and impendingcliffs above us; a safe resort for bandits to annoy the traveller if theyfelt disposed. " At Toulon they visited the arsenal and navy yard. "We saw many ships of all classes in various states of equipment, andevery indication, from the activity which pervaded every department, thatgreat attention is paying by the French to their marine. Their ships havenot the neatness of ours; there seems to be a great deal of ornament, andsuch as I should suppose was worse than useless in a ship of war. "We noticed the galley slaves at work; they had a peculiar dress to markthem. They were dressed in red frocks with the letters 'G a l' stamped oneach side of the back, as they were also on their pantaloons. The worstsort, those who had committed murder, had been shipped lately to Brest. Those who had been convicted twice had on a green cap; those who wereordinary criminals had on a red cap; and those who were least criminal, ablue cap. "A great mortality was prevailing among them. There are about fivehundred at this place, and I was told by the sentinel that twenty-two hadbeen buried yesterday. Three bodies were carried out whilst we were inthe yard. We, of course, did not linger in the vicinity of thehospitals. . . . "On Saturday, January 30, we left Toulon in a _voiture_ or privatecarriage, the public conveyances towards Italy being now uncertain, inconvenient, and expensive. There were five of us and we made anagreement in writing with a _vetturino_ to carry us to Nice, the firstcity in Italy, for twenty-seven francs each, the same as the fare in thediligence, to which place he agreed to take us in two days and a half. Ofcourse necessity obliges us in this instance to travel on the Sabbath, which we tried every means in our power to avoid. "At twelve we stopped at the village of Cuers, an obscure, dirty place, and stopped at an inn called 'La Croix d'Or' for breakfast. We here metwith the first gross imposition in charges that occurred to us in France. Our _déjeuner_ for five consisted of three cups of miserable coffee, without milk or butter; a piece of beef stewed with olives for two;mutton chops for five; eggs for five; some cheese, and a meagre dessertof raisins, hazel nuts, and olives, with a bottle of sour _vinordinaire;_ and for this we were charged fifteen francs, or three francseach, while at the best hotels in Paris, and in all the cities throughwhich we passed, we had double the quantity of fare, and of the bestkind, for two francs and sometimes for one and one half francs. Allparleying with the extortionate landlord had only the effect of makinghim more positive and even insolent; and when we at last threw him themoney to avoid further detention, he told us to mark his house, and, withthe face of a demon, told us we should never enter his house again. Wecan easily bear our punishment. As we resumed our journey we were salutedwith a shower of stones. " The journal continues and tells of the slow progress along the Riviera, through Cannes, which was then but an unimportant village; Nice, at thattime belonging to Italy, and where they saw in the cathedral CharlesFelix, King of Sardinia. It took them many days to climb up and down therugged road over the mountains, while now the traveller is whisked underand around the same mountains in a few hours. "At eleven we had attained a height of at least two thousand feet and theprecipices became frightful, sweeping down into long ravines to the veryedge of the sea; and then the road would wind at the edge of theprecipice two or three thousand feet deep. Such scenes pass so rapidly itis impossible to make note of them. "From the heights on which La Turbia stands, with its dilapidated walls, we see the beautiful city of Monaco, on a tongue of land extending intothe sea. " The great gambling establishment of Monte Carlo did not invade thisbeautiful spot until many years later, in 1856. The travellers stopped for a few hours at Mentone, --"a beautiful placefor an artist, "--passed the night at San Remo, and, sauntering thusleisurely along the beautiful Riviera, arrived in Genoa on the 6th ofFebruary. [Illustration: JEREMIAH EVARTSFrom a portrait painted by Morse owned by Sherman Evarts, Esq. ] CHAPTER XVI FEBRUARY 6, 1880--JUNE 15, 1830 Serra Palace in Genoa. --Starts for Rome. --Rain in the mountains. --Abrigand. --Carrara. --First mention of a railroad. --Pisa. --The leaningtower. --Rome at last. --Begins copying at once. --Notebooks. --Ceremonies atthe Vatican. --Pope Pius VIII. --Academy of St. Luke's. --St Peter's. --Chiesa Nuova. --Painting at the Vatican. --Beggar monks. --Fata of theAnnunciation. --Soirée at Palazzo Simbaldi. --Passion Sunday. --HoraceVernet. --Lying in state of a cardinal. --_Miserere_ at Sistine Chapel. --Holy Thursday at St Peter's. --Third cardinal dies. --Meets Thorwaldsen atSignor Persianis's. --Manners of English, French, and Americans. --Landi'spictures. --Funeral of a young girl. --Trip to Tivoli, Subiaco. --Processionof the _Corpus Domini. _--Disagreeable experience. The enthusiastic artist was now in Italy, the land of his dreams, and hisnotebooks are filled with short comments or longer descriptions ofchurches, palaces, and pictures in Genoa and in the other towns throughwhich he passed on his way to Rome, or with pen-pictures of the wildcountry through which he and his fellow travellers journeyed. In Genoa, where he stopped several days, he was delighted with thepalaces and churches, and yet he found material for criticism:-- "The next place of interest was the Serra Palace, now inhabited by one ofthat family, who, we understood, was insane. After stopping a moment inthe anteroom, the ceiling of which is painted in fresco by Somnio, wewere ushered into the room called the most splendid in Europe, and, ifcarving and gilding and mirrors and chandeliers and costly colors canmake a splendid room, this is certainly that room. The chandeliers andmirrored sides are so arranged as to create the illusion that the room isof indefinite extent. To me it appeared, on the whole, tawdry, seeing itin broad daylight. In the evening, when the chandeliers are lighted, Ihave no doubt of its being a most gorgeous exhibition, but, like someshowy belle dressed and painted for evening effect, the daylight turnsher gold into tinsel and her bloom into rouge. "After having stayed nearly four days in Genoa, and after having madearrangements with our honest _vetturino_, Dominique, to take us to Rome, stopping at various places on the way long enough to see them, we retiredlate to bed to prepare for our journey in the morning. "On Wednesday morning, February 10, we rose at five o'clock, and, afterbreakfast of coffee, etc. , we set out at six on our journey towardsRome. " I shall not follow them every step of the way, but shall select only themore personal entries in the diary. "A little after eleven o'clock we stopped at a single house upon a highhill overlooking the sea, to breakfast. It has the imposing title of'Locanda della Gran Bretagna. ' We expected little and got less, and had aspecimen of the bad faith of these people. We enquired the price of our_déjeuner_ before we ordered it, which is always necessary. We were toldone franc each, but after our breakfast, we were told one and a halfeach, and no talking with the landlord would alter his determination todemand his price. There is no remedy for travellers; they must pay or bedelayed. "At one o'clock we left this hole of a place, where we were more besetwith beggars and spongers than at any place since we had been in Italy. " Stopping overnight at Sestri, they set out again on the 11th at fiveo'clock in the morning:-- "It was as dark as the moon, obscured by thick clouds, would allow it tobe, and, as we left the courtyard of the inn, it began to rain violently. Our road lay over precipitous mountains away from the shore, and thescenery became wild and grand. As the day dawned we found ourselves inthe midst of stupendous mountains rising in cones from the valleys below. Deep basins were formed at the bottom by the meeting of the long slopes;clouds were seen far below us, some wasting away as they sailed over thesteeps, and some gathering denseness as they were detained by the cold, snowy peaks which shot up beyond. Now and then a winding stream glitteredat the bottom of some deep ravine amidst the darkness around it, andoccasionally a light from the cottage of some peasant glimmered like astar through the clouds. "As we labored up the steep ascent little brawling cascades withoutnumber, from the heights far above us, in milky streams, gathering powerfrom innumerable rills, dashed at our feet, and, passing down through theartificial passages beneath the road, swept down into the valleys intorrents, and swelling the rivers, whose broad beds were seen through theopenings, rushed with irresistible power to the sea. "We found, from the violence of the storm, that the road was heavy andmuch injured in some parts by the washing down of rocks from the heights. Some of great size lay at the sides recently thrown down, and now andthen one of some hundred pounds' weight was found in the middle of theroad. "We continued to ascend about four hours until we came again from aregion of summer into the region of snow, and the height from the sea wasgreater than we had at any time previously attained. The scenery aroundus, too, was wilder and more sterile. The Apennines here are very grand, assuming every variety of shape and color. Long slopes of clay color wereinterlocked with dark browns sprinkled with golden yellow; slate blue andgrey, mixed with greens and purples, and the pure, deep ultramarine blueof distant peaks finished the background. " After breakfasting at Borghetto at a miserable inn, where they were muchannoyed by beggars of all descriptions, they continued their journeythrough much the same character of country for the rest of the day, andtowards dark they met with a slight adventure:-- "Our road was down a steep declivity winding much in the same way as atFinale. Precipices were at the side without a protecting barrier, and wefelt some uneasiness at our situation, which was not decreased bysuddenly finding our coach stopped and a man on horseback (or rathermuleback) stopping by the side of the coach. It was but for a moment; our_vetturino_ authoritatively ordered him to pass on, which he did with a_'buona sera_, ' and we never parted with a companion more gladly. Fromall the circumstances attending it we were inclined to believe that hehad some design upon us, but, finding us so numerous, thought it best notto run the risk. " Spezia was their resting-place for that night, and, after an early startthe next morning, they reached the banks of the Vara at nine o'clock. "We had a singular time in passing the river in a boat. Many women of thelower orders crossed at the same time. The boat being unable to approachthe shore, we were obliged to ride papoose-back upon the shoulders of thebrawny watermen for some little distance; but what amused us much was theperfect _sang-froid_ with which the women, with their bare legs, held uptheir clothes above the knees and waded to the boat before us. . . . "At half-past twelve we came in sight of Carrara. This place we went outof our course to see, and at one o'clock entered the celebrated village, prettily situated in a valley at the base of stupendous mountains. A deepravine above the village contains the principal quarries of mostexquisite marbles for which this place has for so many ages been famous. The clouds obscuring the highest peaks, and ascending from the valleyslike smoke from the craters of many volcanoes, gave additional grandeurto a scene by nature so grand in itself. "After stopping at the Hôtel de Nouvelle Paros, which we found amiserable inn with bad wine, scanty fare and high charges, we took ahasty breakfast, and procuring a guide we walked out to see thecuriosities of the place. It rained hard and the road was excessivelybad, sometimes almost ankle-deep in mud. Notwithstanding the forbiddingweather and bad road, we labored up the deep ravine on the sides of whichthe excavations are made. Dark peaks frowned above us capped with cloudsand snow; white patches midway the sides showed the veins of the marble, and immense heaps of detritus, the accumulation of ages, mountainsthemselves, sloped down on each side like masses of piled ice to the veryedge of the road. The road itself, white with the material of which it ismade, was composed of loose pieces of the white marble of every size. . . . Continuing the ascent by the side of a milky stream, which rushed downits rocky bed, and which here and there was diverted off into aqueductsto the various mills, we were pointed to the top of a high hill by theroadside where was the entrance to a celebrated grotto, and at the baseclose by, a cavern protected a beautiful, clear, crystal fountain, whichgushed from up the bottom forming a liquid, transparent floor, and thenglided to mingle its pure, unsullied waters with the cloudy stream thatrushed by it. "Climbing over piles of rock like refined sugar and passing severalwagons carrying heavy blocks down the road, we arrived at the mouth ofthe principal quarry where the purest statuary marble is obtained. Icould not but think how many exquisite statues here lay entombed forages, till genius, at various times, called them from their slumbers andbid them live. . . . "On our return we again passed the wagons laden with blocks, and muleswith slabs on each side sometimes like the roof of a house over themule. . . . The wagons and oxen deserve notice. The former are very badlyconstructed; they are strong, but the wheels are small, in diameter abouttwo feet and but about three inches wide, so sharp that the roads mustsuffer from them. The oxen are small and, without exception, mouse-colored. The driver, and there is usually one to each pair, sits onthe yoke between them, and, like the oarsman of a boat, with his backtowards the point towards which he is going. Two huge blocks were chainedupon one of these wagons, and behind, dragging upon the ground by a chain, was another. Three yoke of these small oxen, apparently without fatigue, drew the load thus constructed over this wretched road. An enterprisingcompany of Americans or English, by the construction of a railroad, whichis more practicable than a canal, but which latter might be constructed, would, I should think, give great activity to the operations here andmake it very profitable to themselves. " It is rather curious to note that this is the first mention of a railroadmade by Morse in his notes or letters, although he was evidently aware ofthe experiments which were being made at that time both in Europe andAmerica, and these must have been of great interest to him. It is alsowell to bear in mind that the great development of transportation by railcould not occur until the invention of the telegraph had made it possibleto send signals ahead, and, in other ways, to control the movement oftraffic. At the present day the railroad at Carrara, which Morse saw inhis visions of the future, has been built, but the ox teams are alsostill used, and linger as a reminder of more primitive days. Continuing their journey, the travellers spent the night at Lucca, and inthe morning explored the town, which they found most interesting as wellas neat and clean. Leaving Lucca, "with much reluctance, " on the 18th, the journal continues:-- "At half-past five, at sunset, Pisa with its leaning tower (the _duomo_of the cathedral and that of the baptistery being the principal objectsin the view), was seen across the plain before us. Towards the west was along line of horizon, unbroken, except here and there by a low-roofedtower or the little pyramidal spire of a village church. To the southeastthe plain stretched away to the base of distant blue mountains, and tothe east and the north the rude peaks through which we had travelled, their cold tops tinged with a warmer glow, glittered beyond the deepbrown slopes, which were more advanced and confining the plain tonarrower limits. " They found the Hôtel Royal de l'Hussar an excellent inn, and, the nextday being Sunday, they attended an English service and heard an excellentsermon by the Reverend Mr. Ford, an Englishman. "In the evening we walked to the famous leaning tower, the cathedral, thebaptistery, and Campo Santo, which are clustered together in the northernpart of the city. In going there we went some distance along the quay, which was filled with carriages and pedestrians, among whom were manymasques and fancy dresses of the most grotesque kind. It is the season ofCarnival, and all these fooleries are permitted at this time. We merelyglanced at the exterior of the celebrated buildings, leaving tillto-morrow a more thorough examination. " "_Monday, February 16. _ We rose early and went again to the leaning towerand its associated buildings. The tower, which is the _campanile_ of thecathedral and is about one hundred and ninety feet high, leans from itsperpendicular thirteen feet. We ascended to the top by a windingstaircase. One ascending feels the inclination every step he takes, and, when he reaches the top and perceives that that which should behorizontal is an inclined plane, the sensation is truly startling. It isdifficult to persuade one's self that the tower is not actually falling, and I could not but imagine at intervals that it moved, reasoning myselfmomentarily into security from the fact that it had thus stood for ages. I could not but recur also to the fact that once it stood upright; that, although ages had been passed in assuming its present inclination to theearth, the time would probably come when it would actually fall, and theidea would suggest itself with appalling force that that time might benow. The reflection suggested by one of our company that it would be aglorious death, for one thus perishing would be sure of an imperishablename, however pleasing in romantic speculation, had no great power todispel the shrinking fear produced by the vivid thought of thepossibility when on the top of the tower. . . . The _campanile_ is not theonly leaning tower in Pisa. We observed that several varied from theperpendicular, and the sides of many of the buildings, even parts of thecathedral and the baptistery, inclined at a considerable angle. The soilis evidently unfavorable to the erection of high, heavy buildings. " After a side trip to Leghorn and further loitering along the way, stopping but a short time in Florence, which he purposed to visit andstudy at his leisure later on, he saw, at nine o'clock on the morning ofFebruary 20, the dome of St. Peter's in the distance, and, at two o'clockhe and his companions entered Rome through the Porta del Popolo. Taking lodgings at No. 17 Via de Prefetti, he spent the first few days ina cursory examination of the treasures by which he was surrounded, but hewas eager to begin at once the work for which he had receivedcommissions, and on March 7 he writes home:-- "I have begun to copy the 'School of Athens' from Raphael for Mr. R. Donaldson. The original is on the walls of one of the celebrated Cameraof Raphael in the Vatican. It is in fresco and occupies one entire sideof the room. It is a difficult picture to copy and will occupy five orsix weeks certainly. Every moment of my time, from early in the morninguntil late at night, when not in the Vatican, is occupied in seeing theexhaustless stores of curiosities in art and antiquities with which thiswonderful city abounds. "I find I can endure great fatigue, and my spirits are good, and I feelstrong for the pleasant duties of my profession. I feel particularlyanxious that every gentleman who has given me a commission shall be morethan satisfied that he has received an equivalent for the sum generouslyadvanced to me. But I find that, to accomplish this, I shall need all mystrength and time for more than a year to come, and that will be littleenough to do myself and them justice. I am delighted with my situationand more than ever convinced of the wisdom of my course in coming toItaly. " Morse's little notebooks and sketch-books are filled with short, abruptnotes on the paintings, religious ceremonies, and other objects ofinterest by which he is surrounded, but sometimes he goes more intodetail. I shall select from these voluminous notes only those which seemto me to be of the greatest interest. "_March 17. _ Mr. Fenimore Cooper and family are here. I have passed manypleasant hours with them, particularly one beautiful moonlight eveningvisiting the Coliseum. After the Holy Week I shall visit Naples, probablywith Mr. Theodore Woolsey, who is now in Rome. "_March 18. _ Ceremonies at the Consistory; delivery of the cardinals'hats. At nine o'clock went to the Vatican; two large fantails withostrich feathers; ladies penned up; Pope; cardinals kiss his hand inrotation; address in Latin, tinkling, like water gurgling from a bottle. The English cardinal first appeared, went up and was embraced and kissedon each cheek by the Pope; then followed the others in the same manner;then each new cardinal embraced in succession all the other cardinals;after this, beginning with the English cardinal, each went to the Pope, and he, putting on their heads the cardinal's hat, blessed them in thename of the Trinity. They then kissed the ring on his hand and his toeand retired from the throne. The Pope then rose, blessed the assembly bymaking the sign of the cross three times in the air with his two fingers, and left the room. His dress was a plain mitre of gold tissue, a rich, garment of gold and crimson, embroidered, a splendid clasp of gold, aboutsix inches long by four wide, set with precious stones, upon his breast. He is very decrepit, limping or tottering along, has a defect in one eye, and his countenance has an expression of pain, especially as the newcardinals approached his toe. [1] [Footnote 1: This was Pope Pius VIII. ] "The cardinals followed the Pope two and two with their train-bearers. After a few minutes the doors opened again and a procession, headed bysingers, entered chanting as they went. The cardinals followed them withtheir train-bearers; they passed through the Consistory, and thus closedthe ceremony of presenting the cardinals' hats. "A multitude of attendants, in various costumes, surrounded the pontiff'sthrone during the ceremony, among whom was Bishop Dubois of New York. . . . "Academy of St. Luke's: Raphael's skull; Harlow's picture of the makingof a cardinal; said to have been painted in twelve days; I don't believeit. 'The Angels appearing to the Shepherds, ' by Bassan--good for color;much trash in the way of portraits. Lower rooms contain the pictures forthe premiums; some good; all badly colored. Third Room: Bas-reliefs forthe premiums. Fourth Room: Smaller premium pictures; bad. Fifth Room:Drawings; the oldest best, modern bad. "_Friday, March 19. _ We went to St. Peter's to see the procession ofcardinals singing in the Capella. Cardinals walked two and two throughSt. Peter's, knelt on purple velvet cushions before the Capella inprayer, then successively kissed the toe of the bronze image of St. Peteras they walked past it. "This statue of St. Peter, as a work of art, is as execrable as possible. Part of the toe and foot is worn away and polished, not by the kisses, but by the wiping of the foot after the kisses by the next comerpreparatory to kissing it; sometimes with the coat-sleeve by a beggar;with the corner of the cloak by the gentlemen; the shawl by the females;and with a nice cambric handkerchief by the attendant at the ceremony, who wiped the toe after each cardinal's performance. This ceremony isvariously performed. Some give it a single kiss and go away; others kissthe toe and then touch the forehead to it and kiss the toe again, repeating the operation three times. " The ceremonies and ritual of the Roman Catholic Church, while appealingto the eye of the artist, were repugnant to his Puritan upbringing, andwe find many scornful remarks among his notes. In fact he was, all hislife, bitterly opposed to the doctrines of Rome, and in later years, aswe shall see, he entered into a heated controversy with a prominentecclesiastic of that faith in America. "_March 21. _ Chiesa Nuova at seven o'clock in the evening; a sacred operacalled 'The Death of Aaron. ' Church dark; women not admitted; bell ringsand a priest before the altar chants a prayer, after which a boy, abouttwelve years old apparently, addresses the assembly from the pulpit. Iknow not the drift of his discourse, but his utterance was like the samegurgling process which I noticed in the orator who addressed the Pope. Itwas precisely like the fitful tone of the Oneida interpreter. "_Tuesday, March 23. _ At the Vatican all the morning. While preparing mypalette a monk, decently habited for a monk, who seemed to have come tothe Vatican for the purpose of viewing the pictures, after a little timeapproached me and, with a very polite bow, offered me a pinch of snuff, which, of course, I took, bowing in return, when he instantly asked mealms. I gave him a _bajocco_ for which he seemed very grateful. Trulythis is a nation of beggars. "_Wednesday, March 24. _ Vatican all the morning. Saw in returning a greatnumber of priests with a white bag over the left shoulder and begging ofthe persons they met. This is another instance of begging and robbingconfined to one class. "_Thursday, March 25. _ _Festa_ of the Annunciation; Vatican shut. Doorsopen at eight of the Chiesa di Minerva; obtained a good place for seeingthe ceremony. At half-past nine the cardinals began to assemble; CardinalBarberini officiated in robes, white embroidered with gold; singing;taking off and putting on mitres, etc. ; jumping up and bowing; kissingthe ring on the finger of the cardinal; putting incense into censers;monotonous reading, or rather whining, of a few lines of prayer in Latin;flirting censers at each cardinal in succession; cardinals bowing to oneanother; many attendants at the altar; cardinals embrace one another;after mass a contribution among the cardinals in rich silver plate. Enterthe virgins in white, with crowns, two and two, and candles; they kissthe hem of the garment of one of the cardinals; they are accompanied bythree officers and exit. Cardinals' dresses exquisitely plaited;sixty-two cardinals in attendance. . . . "Palazzo Simbaldi: At half-past eight the company began to assemble inthe splendid saloon of this palace, to which I was invited. The singers, about forty in number, were upon a stage erected at the end of the room;white drapery hung behind festoons with laurel wreaths (the walls werepainted in fresco). Four female statues standing on globes upheld sevenlong wax-lights; the instrumental musicians, about forty, were arrangedat the foot of these statues; _sala_ was lighted principally by six glasschandeliers; much female beauty in the room; dresses very various. "Signora Luigia Tardi sang with much judgment and was received with greatapplause. A little girl, apparently about twelve years old, played uponthe harp in a most exquisite manner, and called forth _bravas_ of theItalians and of the foreigners bountifully. "The manners of the audience were the same as those of fashionablesociety in our own country, and indeed in any other country; the displayin dress, however, less tasteful than I have seen in New York. But, intruth, I have not seen more beauty and taste in any country, combinedwith cultivation of mind and delicacy of manner, than in our own. At oneo'clock in the morning, or half-past six Italian time, the concert wasover. "_Saturday, March 27. _ On returning to dinner I found at the post-office, to my great joy, the first letter from America since I left it. "_Sunday, March 28. _ Passion Sunday. Kept awake nearly all last night bya severe toothache; sent for a dentist and had the tooth extracted, forwhich he had the conscience to ask me three dollars--he took two. Wasprevented by this circumstance from going to church this morning; went inthe afternoon, and, after church, to St. Peter's; found all the crossescovered with black and all the pictures veiled. There were a great manyin the church to hear the music which is considered very fine; some of itI was well pleased with, but it is by no means so impressive as thesinging of the nuns at the Trinita di Monti, to which church we repairedat vespers. "In St. Peter's we found a procession of about forty nuns; some of themwere very pretty and their neat white headdresses, and kerchiefs, andhair dressed plain, gave a pleasing simplicity to their countenances. Some, looked arch enough and far from serious. "_Monday, March 29. _ Early this morning was introduced to the ChevalierHorace Vernet, principal of the French Academy; found him in thebeautiful gardens of the Academy. He came in a _négligé_ dress, a cap, orrather turban, of various colors, a parti-colored belt, and a cloak. Hereceived me kindly, walked through the antique gallery of casts, a longroom and a splendid collection selected with great judgment. "_Wednesday, March 31. _ Early this morning was waked by the roar of acannon; learned that it was the anniversary of the present Pope'selection. Went to the Vatican; the colonnade was filled with thecarriages of the cardinals; that of the new English cardinal, Weld, wasthe most showy. "_Thursday, April 1. _ Went in the evening to the soirée of the ChevalierVernet, director of the French Academy. He is a gentleman of elegantmanners and sees at his soirées the first society in Rome. His wife ishighly accomplished and his daughter is a beautiful girl, full ofvivacity, and speaks English fluently. . . . During the evening there wasmusic; his daughter played on the piano and others sang. There was chess, and, at a sideboard, a few played cards. The style was simple, every oneat ease like our soirées in America. Several noblemen and dignitaries ofthe Church were present. " On April 4, Palm Sunday, he attended the services at the Sistine Chapel, which he found rather tedious, with much mummery. Going from there to thecancellerie he describes the following scene:-- "Cardinal Giulio Maria della Somaglia in state on an elevated bed ofcloth-of-gold and black embroidered with gold, his head on a black velvetcushion embroidered with gold, dressed in his robes as when alive. Heofficiated, I was told, on Ash Wednesday. Four wax-lights, two on eachside of the bed; great throng of people of all grades through the suiteof apartments--the cancellerie--in which he lived; they were verysplendid, chiefly of crimson and gold. The cardinal has died unpopular, for he has left nothing to his servants by his will; he directed, however, that no expense should be spared in his funeral, wishing that itmight be splendid, but, unfortunately for him, he has died precisely atthat season of the year (the Holy Week) when alone it is impossible, according to the church customs, to give him a splendid burial. " "_Wednesday, April 7. _ Went to the Piazza Navone, being market-day, insearch of prints. The scene here is very amusing; the variety of waresexposed, and the confusion of noises and tongues, and now and then ajackass swelling the chorus with his most exquisite tones. "At three o'clock went to St. Peter's to see ceremonies at the SistineChapel. Cardinals asleep; monotonous bawling, long and tedious; candlesput out one by one, fifteen in number; no ceremonies at the altar;cardinals present nineteen in number; seven yawns from the cardinals;tiresome and monotonous beyond description. "After three hours of this most tiresome chant, all the candles havingbeen extinguished, the celebrated _Miserere_ commenced. It is, indeed, sublime, but I think loses much of its effect from the fatigue of body, and mind, too, in which it is heard by the auditors. The _Miserere_ isthe composition of the celebrated Allegri, and for giving the effect ofwailing and lamentation, without injury to harmony, it is one of the mostperfect of compositions. The manner of sustaining a strain of concord bynew voices, now swelling high, now gradually dying away, now slidingimperceptibly into discord and suddenly breaking into harmony, isadmirable. The imagination is alive and fancies thousands of people inthe deepest contrition. It closed by the cardinals clapping their handsfor the earthquake. " On April 8 (Holy Thursday), Morse went early with Mr. Fenimore Cooper andother Americans to St. Peter's. After describing some of the preliminaryceremonies he continues:-- "Having examined the splendid chair in which he was to be borne, andwhile he was robing in another apartment, we found that, although wemight have a complete view of the Pope and the ceremonies before andafter the benediction, yet the principal effect was to be seen below. Wetherefore left our place at the balcony, where we could see nothing butthe crowd, and hastened below. On passing into the hall we were sofortunate as to be just in season for the procession from the SistineChapel to the Pauline. The cardinals walked in procession, two and two, and one bore the host, while eight bearers held over him a rich canopy ofsilver tissue embroidered with gold. "Thence we hastened to the front of St. Peter's, where, in the centreupon the highest step, we had an excellent view of the balcony, and, turning round, could see the immense crowd which had assembled in thepiazza and the splendid square of troops which were drawn up before thesteps of the church. Here I had scarcely time to make a hasty sketch, inthe broiling sun, of the window and its decorations, before theprecursors of the Pope, the two large feather fans, made their appearanceon each side of the balcony, which was decorated with crimson and gold, and immediately after the Pope, with his mitre of gold tissue and hissplendid robes of gold and jewels, was borne forward, relieving finelyfrom the deep crimson darkness behind him. He made the usual sign ofblessing, with his two fingers raised. A book was then held before him inwhich he read, with much motion of his head, for a minute. He then rose, extending both his arms--this was the benediction--while at the samemoment the soldiers and crowd all knelt; the cannon from the Castle ofSt. Angelo was discharged, and the bells in all the churches rang asimultaneous peal. "The effect was exceedingly grand, the most imposing of all theceremonies I have witnessed. The Pope was then borne back again. Twopapers were thrown from the balcony for which there was a great scrambleamong the crowd. " On Friday, April 9 (Good Friday), many of the ceremonies so familiar tovisitors to Rome during Holy Week are described at length in thenotebooks, but I shall omit most of these. The following note, however, seems worthy of being recorded:-- "On our way to St. Peter's I ought to have noticed our visit to a palacein which another cardinal (the third who has died within a few days) waslying in state--Cardinal Bertazzoli. "It is a singular fact, of which I was informed, that about the same timelast year three cardinals died, and that it was a common remark that whenone died two more soon followed, and the Pope always created threecardinals at a time. " "_Friday, April 16. _ At the Vatican all day. I went to the soirée of theSignor Persianis in the evening. Here I had the pleasure of meeting forthe first line with the Chevalier Thorwaldsen, the great Danish sculptor, the first now living. He is an old man in appearance having a profusionof grey hair, wildly hanging over his forehead and ears. His face has astrong Northern character, his eyes are light grey, and his complexionsandy; he is a large man of perfectly unassuming manners and of mostamiable deportment. Daily receiving homage from all the potentates ofEurope, he is still without the least appearance of ostentation. Hereadily assented to a request to sit for his portrait which I hope soonto take. "_Tuesday, April 27. _ My birthday. How time flies and to how littlepurpose have I lived!! "_Wednesday, April 28. _ I have noticed a difference in manners betweenthe English, French, and Americans. If you are at the house of a friendand should happen to meet Englishmen who are strangers to you, nointroduction takes place unless specially requested. The most perfectindifference is shown towards you by these strangers, quite as much astowards a chair or table. Should you venture a word in the generalconversation, they might or might not, as the case may be, take notice ofit casually, but coldly and distantly, and even if they should so farrelax as to hold a conversation with you through the evening, the momentthey rise to go all recognition ceases; they will take leave of every oneelse, but as soon think of bowing to the chair they had left as to you. "A Frenchman, on the contrary, respectfully salutes all in the room, friends and strangers alike. He seems to take it for granted that thefriends of his friend are at least entitled to respect if not toconfidence, and without reserve he freely enters into conversation withyou, and, when he goes, he salutes all alike, but no acquaintance ensues. "An American carries his civility one step further; if he meets youafterwards, in other company, the fact that he has seen you at thisfriend's and had an agreeable chit-chat is introduction enough, and, unless there is something _peculiar_ in your case, he will ever afterknow you and be your friend. This is not the case with the two former. "The American is in this, perhaps, too unsuspicious and the others mayhave good reasons for their mode, but that of the Americans has more ofgenerous sincerity and frankness and kindness in it. "_Friday, April 30. _ Painting all day except two hours at the ColonnaPalace--Landi's pictures--horrible!! How I was disappointed. I had heardLandi, the Chevalier Landi, lauded to the skies by the Italians as thegreatest modern colorist. He was made a chevalier, elected a member ofthe Academy at Florence and of the Academy of St. Luke in Rome, and therewere his pictures which I was told I must by all means see. They are notmerely bad, they are execrable. There is not a redeeming point in asingle picture that I saw, not one that would have placed him on a levelwith the commonest sign-painter in America. His largest work in his roomsat present is the 'Departure of Mary Queen of Scots from Paris. ' Thestory is not told; the figures are not grouped but huddled together; theyare not well-drawn individually; the character is vulgar and tame; thereis no taste in the disposal of the drapery and ornaments, no effect of_chiaroscuro. _ It is flimsy and misty, and, as to color, the quality towhich I was specially directed, if total disregard of arrangement, if thescattering of tawdry reds and blues and yellows over the picture, allquarrelling for the precedence; if leather complexions varied by those ofchalk, without truth or depth or tone, constitute good color, then arethey finely colored. But, if Landi is a colorist, then are Titian andVeronese never more to be admired. In short, I have never met with theworks of an artist who had a name like Landi's so utterly destitute ofeven the shadow of merit. There is but one word which can express theircharacter, they are _execrable!_ "It is astonishing that with such works of the old masters before them asthe Italians have, they should not perceive the defects of their ownpainters in this particular. Cammuccini is the only one among them whopossesses genius in the higher departments, and he only in drawing; hiscolor is very bad. "A funeral procession passed the house to-day. On the bier, exposed as iscustomary here, was a beautiful young girl, apparently of fifteen, dressed in rich laces and satins embroidered with gold and silver andflowers tastefully arranged, and sprinkled also with real flowers, and ather head was placed a coronet of flowers. She had more the appearance ofsleep than of death. No relative appeared near her; the whole seemed tobe conducted by the priests and monks and those hideous objects in whitehoods, with faces covered except two holes for the eyes. " In early May, Morse, in company with other artists, went on a sketchingtrip to Tivoli, Subiaco, Vico, and Vara. This must have been one of thehappiest periods of his life. He was in Italy, the cradle of the art heloved; he was surrounded by beauty, both natural and that wrought by thehand of man; he had daily intercourse with congenial souls, and home, with its cares and struggles, seemed far away. His notebooks are largelyfilled with simple descriptions of the places visited, but now and thenhe indulges in rhapsody. At Subiaco he comes upon this scene:-- "Upon a solitary seat (a fit place for meditation and study), by a gatewhich shut the part of the terrace near the convent from that which goesround the hill, sat a monk with his book. He seemed no further disturbedby my passing than to give me the usual salutation. "I stopped at a little distance from him to look around and down into thechasm below. It was enchanting in spite of the atmosphere of the sirocco. The hills covered with woods, at a distance, reminded me of my owncountry, fresh and variegated; the high peaks beyond were grey fromdistance, and the sides of the nearer mountains were marked with many awinding track, down one of which a shepherd and his sheep weredescending, looking like a moving pathway. No noise disturbed the silencebut the distant barking of the shepherd's dog (as he, like a busymarshal, kept the order of his procession unbroken) mixing with the faintmurmuring of the waterfall and the song of the birds that inhabited theilex grove. It was altogether a place suited to meditation, and, were itconsistent with those duties which man owes his fellow man, here would bethe spot to which one, fond of study and averse to the noise and bustleof the world, would love to retire. " Returning to Rome on June 3, after enjoying to the full this excursion, from which he brought back many sketches, he found the city given over toceremony after ceremony connected with the Church. Saint's day followedsaint's day, each with its appropriate (or, from the point of view of theNew Englander, inappropriate) pageant; or some new church was dedicatedand the nights made brilliant with wonderful pyrotechnical displays. Hewent often with pleasure to the Trinita di Monti, where the beautifulsinging of the nuns gave him special pleasure. Commenting sarcastically on a display of fireworks in honor of St. Francesco Caracciolo, he says:-- "As far as whizzing serpents, wheels, port-fires, rockets, and othervarieties of pyrotechnic art could set forth the humility of the saint, it was this night brilliantly displayed. " And again, in describing the procession of the _Corpus Domini_, "the mostsplendid of all the church ceremonies, " it is this which particularlyimpresses him:-- "Next came monks of the Franciscan and Capuchin orders, with their browndresses and heads shaved and such a set of human faces I never beheld. They seemed, many of them, like disinterred corpses, for a momentreanimated to go through this ceremony, and then to sink back again intotheir profound sleep. Pale and haggard and unearthly, the wild eye of thevisionary and the stupid stare of the idiot were seen among them, and itneeded no stretch of the imagination to find in most the expression ofthe worst passions of our nature. They chanted as they went, theirsepulchral voices echoing through the vaulted piazza, while the bell ofSt. Peter's, tolling a deep bass drone, seemed a fitting accompanimentfor their hymns. " Later, on this same day, while watching a part of the ceremonies on theGorso, he has this rather disagreeable experience:-- "I was standing close to the side of the house when, in an instant, without the slightest notice, my hat was struck off to the distance ofseveral yards by a soldier, or rather a poltroon in a soldier's costume, and this courteous manoeuvre was performed with his gun and bayonet, accompanied with curses and taunts and the expression of a demon in hiscountenance. "In cases like this there is no redress. The soldier receives his ordersto see that all hats are off in this religion of force, and the manner isleft to his discretion. If he is a brute, as was the case in thisinstance, he may strike it off; or, as in some other instances, if thesoldier be a gentleman, he may ask to have it taken off. There was noexcuse for this outrage on all decency, to which every foreigner isliable and which is not of infrequent occurrence. The blame lies afterall, not so much with the pitiful wretch who perpetrates this outrage, asit does with those who gave him such base and indiscriminate orders. " CHAPTER XVII JUNE 17, 1830--FEBRUARY 2, 1831 Working hard. --Trip to Genzano. --Lake of Nemi. --Beggars. --Curiousfestival of flowers at Genzano. --Night on the Campagna. --Heat in Rome. --Illumination of St. Peter's. --St. Peter's Day. --Vaults of the Church. --Feebleness of Pope. --Morse and companions visit Naples, Capri, andAmalfi. --Charms of Amalfi. --Terrible accident. --Flippancy at funerals. --Campo Santo at Naples. --Gruesome conditions. --Ubiquity of beggars. --Convent of St. Martino. --Masterpiece of Spagnoletto. --Returns to Rome. --Faints portrait of Thorwaldsen. --Presented to him in after years by JohnTaylor Johnston. --Given to King of Denmark. --Reflections on the socialevil and the theatre. --Death of the Pope. --An assassination. --TheHonorable Mr. Spencer and Catholicism. --Election of Pope Gregory XVI. During all these months Morse was diligently at work in the variousgalleries, making the copies for which he had received commissions, andthe day's record almost invariably begins with "At the Colonna Palace allday"; or, "At the Vatican all day"; or wherever else he may have beenworking at the time. The heat of the Roman summer seems not yet to have inconvenienced him, for he does not complain, but simply remarks: "Sun almost vertical, . . . Houses and shops shut at noon. " He has this to say of an Italianinstitution: "Lotteries in Rome make for the Government eight thousandscudi per week; common people venture in them; are superstitious andconsult _cabaliste_ or lucky numbers; these tolerated as they help sellthe tickets. " While working hard, he occasionally indulged himself in a holiday, and onJune 16 he, in company with three other artists, engaged a carriage foran excursion to Albano, Aricia, and Genzano, "to witness at the latterplace the celebrated _festa infiorata_, which occurs every year on the17th of June. " After spending the night at Albano, which they found crowded with artistsof various nationalities and with other sight-seers, "We set out forGenzano, a pleasant walk of a little more than a mile through a windingcarriage-road, thickly shaded with fine trees of elm and chestnut andilex. A little fountain by the wayside delayed us for a moment to sketchit, and we then continued our way through a straight, level, paved road, shaded on each side with trees, into the pretty village of Genzano. " Finding that the principal display was not until the afternoon, theystrolled to the Lake of Nemi, "situated in a deep basin, the crater of avolcano. " Those Italian lakes which he had so far seen, while lovely andespecially interesting from their historical or legendary associationsand the picturesque buildings on their shores, seemed to the artist (everfaithful to his native land) less naturally attractive than the lakeswith which he was familiar at home--Lake George, Otsego Lake, etc. He hadnot yet seen Como or Maggiore. Then he touches upon the great drawback toall travelling in Italy:-- "Throughout the day, wherever we went, beggars in every shape annoyed us, nor could we scarcely hear ourselves talk when on the borders of the lakefor the swarms which importuned us. A foolish Italian, in the hopeprobably of getting rid of them, commenced giving a _mezzo biochi_ toeach, and such a clamor, such devouring eyes, such pushing and bawling, such teasing importunity for more, and from some who had received andconcealed their gift, I could not have conceived, nor do I ever wishagain to see so disgusting a sight. The foolish fellow who invented thisplan of satisfying an Italian beggar's appetite found to his sorrow that, instead of thanks, he obtained curses and an increase of importunity. . . . "After dinner we again walked to Genzano, whither we found were goinggreat multitudes of every class; elegant equipages and _vetture_ racingwith each other; donkeys and horses and foot travellers; and not amongthe least striking were the numbers of women, some of whom weresplendidly dressed, all riding on horseback, a foot in each stirrup, andriding with as much ease and fine horsemanship as the men. "When we arrived at Genzano the decoration of the streets had commenced. Two of the principal and wide streets ascend a little, diverging fromeach other, from the left side of the common street which goes throughthe village. The middle of these streets was the principal scene ofdecoration. On each side of the centre of the street, leaving agood-sized sidewalk, were pillars at a distance of eight or nine feetfrom each other composed of the evergreen box and tufted at the top withevery variety of flowers. They were in many places also connected byfestoons of box. The pavement of the street between the pillars in bothstreets, and for a distance of at least one half a mile, was mostexquisitely figured with flowers of various colors, looking like animmense and gorgeously figured carpet. "The devices were in the following order which I took note of on thespot: first, a temple with four columns of yellow flowers (the flower ofthe broom) containing an altar on which was the Holy Sacrament. In thepediment of the temple a column surmounted by a halfmoon, which is thearms of the Colonna family. Second was a large crown. Third, the HolySacrament again with various rich ornaments. Fourth, stars and circles. Fifth, a splendid coat-of-arms as accurate and rich as if emblazoned inpermanent colors, with a cardinal's hat and a shield with the words_'prudens'_ and _'fidelis'_ upon it. " There were twenty of these wonderful floral decorations on the pavementof one street and fourteen on that of the other and all are described inthe notes, but I have particularized enough to show their character. Thejournal continues:-- "All these figures were as elegantly executed as if made for permanency, some with a minuteness truly astonishing. Among other decorations of theday was the free-will offering of one of the people who had it displayedat the side of his shop on a rude pedestal. It was called the 'Flightinto Egypt, ' and represented Joseph and Mary and the infant on an ass, and all composed of shrubs and flowers. It was, indeed, a mostludicrous-looking affair; Joseph with a face (if such it might be called)of purple flowers and a flaxen wig, dressed in a coarse pilgrim's capestudded over with yellow flowers, was leading by a hay band a greendonkey, made of a kind of heath grass, with a tail of lavender and hoofsof cabbage leaves. Of this latter composition were also the sandals ofMary, whose face, as well as that of the _bambino_, was also of purpleflowers and shapeless. The frock of the infant was of the gaudiest redpoppy. It excited the laughter of almost all who saw it, except now andthen some of the ignorant lower classes would touch their hats, crossthemselves, and mumble a prayer. " After describing some of the picturesque costumes of the _contadini_, hecontinues:-- "It was nearly dark before the procession, to which all thesepreparations had reference, began to move. At length the band of musicwas heard at the lower end of one of the streets, and a man, in amplerobes of scarlet and blue, with a staff, was seen leading the procession, which need be no further described than to say it consisted of the usualquantity of monks chanting, with wax-tapers in their hands, crosses, andheavy, unwieldy banners which endanger the heads of the multitude as theypass; of a fine band of music playing beautiful waltzes and othercompositions, and a _quantum suff. _ of men dressed in the garb ofsoldiers to keep the good people uncovered and on their knees. "The head of the procession had arrived at the top of the street when--crack! pop!--went forty or fifty crackers, which had been placed againstthe walls of a house near us, and which added wonderfully to thesolemnity of the scene, and, accordingly, were repeated every fewseconds, forming a fine accompaniment to the waltzes and the chanting ofthe monks. In a few minutes all the beauty of the flower-carpeted streetwas trodden out, and the last of the procession had hardly passed beforeall the flowers disappeared from the pillars, and all was ruin anddisorder. "The procession halted at a temporary altar at the top of the street, andwe set out on our return at the same moment down the street, facing theimmense multitude which filled the whole street. We had scarcelyproceeded a third of the distance down when we suddenly saw all before usuncovered and upon their knees. We alone formed an exception, and wecontinued our course with various hints from those around us to stop andkneel, which we answered by talking English to each other in a loudertone, and so passed for unchristian _forestieri_, and escaped unmolested, especially as the soldiers were all at the head of the street. "The effect, however, was exceedingly grand of such a multitude upontheir knees, and, could I have divested myself of the thought of thecompulsory measures which produced it and the object to which they knelt, the picture of the Virgin, I should have felt the solemnity of a scenewhich seemed in the outward act to indicate such a universal reverencefor Him who alone rightfully claims the homage and devotion of theheart. " Whether this curious custom still persists in Genzano I know not;Baedeker is silent on the subject. It was nearly dark before they started on the drive back to Rome, andquite dark after they had gone a short distance. "We passed the tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii, which looked muchgrander in the light of the torches than in the day, and, driving hastilythrough Albano, came upon the Campagna once more. It was still more likea desert in the night than in the day, for it was an interminable ocean, and the masses of ruins, coming darker than the rest, seemed likedeserted wrecks upon its bosom. "It is considered dangerous in the summer to sleep while crossing theCampagna; indeed, in certain parts of it, over the Pontine Marshes inJuly and August, it is said to be certain, death, but, if the travellercan keep awake, there is no danger. In spite of the fears which wenaturally entertained lest it might be already dangerous, most of uscould not avoid sleeping, nor could I, with every effort made for thatpurpose. " The days following his return to Rome were employed chiefly in copying atthe Colonna Palace. The heat was now beginning to grow more oppressive, and we find this note on June 21:-- "In the cool of the morning you see the doors of the cafes thronged withpeople taking their coffee and sitting on chairs in the streets for somedistance round. At _mezzo giorno_ the streets are deserted, theshop-doors are closed, and all is still; they have all gone to their_siesta_, their midday sleep. At four o'clock all is bustle again; itseems a fresh morning; the streets and cafés are thronged and the Corsois filled with the equipages of the wealthy, enjoying till quite darkthe cool of the evening air. "The sun is now oppressively warm; the heat is unlike anything I havefelt in America. There is a scorching character about it which isindescribable, and the glare of the light is exceedingly painful to theeyes. The evenings are delightful, cool and clear, showing the lustre ofthe stars gloriously. "_June 28. _ In the evening went to the piazza of St. Peter's to witnessthe illumination of its magnificent dome and the piazza. The change fromthe smaller to the larger illumination is one of the grandest spectaclesI ever beheld. "The lanterns which are profusely scattered over it, showing its wholeform in lines of fire, glow brighter and brighter as the evening advancesfrom twilight to dark, till it seems impossible for its brilliance toincrease. The crowds below, on foot and in carriages, are in breathlessexpectation. The great bell of St. Peter's at length strikes the hour ofnine, and, at the first stroke, a great ball of light is seen ascendingthe cross to its pinnacle. This is the signal for thousands ofassistants, who are concealed over its vast extent, to light the greatlamps, and in an instant all is motion, the whole mass is like a livingthing, fire whirling and flashing over it in all directions, till thevast pile blazes as if lighted with a thousand suns. The effect is trulymagical, for the agents by whom this change is wrought are invisible. " After the illumination of St. Peter's he went to the Castle of St. Angelowhere he witnessed what he describes as the grandest display of fireworkshe had ever seen. "_Tuesday, June 29. _ This day is St. Peter's day, the grandest _festa_ ofthe Romish Church. I went with Mr. B. Early to St. Peter's to see theceremonies. The streets were filled with equipages, among which thesplendid scarlet-and-gold equipages of the cardinals made the mostconspicuous figure. Cardinal Weld's carriage was the richest, and next inmagnificence was that of Cardinal Barberini. "On entering St. Peter's we found it hung throughout with crimson damaskand gold and filled with people, except a wide space in the centre withsoldiers on each side to keep it open for the procession. We passed upnear the statue of St. Peter, who was to-day dressed out in his papalrobes, his black face (for it is of bronze) looking rather frightful frombeneath the splendid tiara which crowned his head, and thescarlet-and-gold tissue of his robes. "Having a little time to spare, we followed a portion of the crowd downthe steps beside the pedestal of the statue of St. Veronica into thevaults beneath the church, which are illuminated on this festival. Masswas performing in several of the splendid chapels, whose rich decorationsof paintings and sculpture are but once a year revealed to the light, save from the obscure glimmering of the wax-taper, which is carried bythe guide, to occasional visitors. It is astonishing what a vast amountof expense is here literally buried. "The ornamented parts are beneath the dome; the other parts are plain, heavy arches and low, almost numberless, and containing the sarcophagi ofthe Popes and other distinguished characters. The illumination here wasconfined to a single lamp over each arch, which rather made darknessvisible and gave an awful effect to some of the gloomier passages. "In one part we saw, through a long avenue of arches, an iron-grateddoor; within was a dim light which just sent its feeble rays upon someobjects in its neighborhood, not strong enough to show what they were. Itrequired no great effort of the imagination to fancy an emaciated, spectral figure of a monk poring over a large book which lay before him. It might have been as we imagined; we had not time to examine, for thesound of music far above us summoned us into the regions of day again, and we arrived in the body of the church just as the trumpets weresounding from the balcony within the church over the great door ofentrance. The effect of the sound was very grand, reverberating throughthe lofty arches and aisles of the church. "We got sight of the head of the procession coming in at the great door, and soon after the Pope, borne in his crimson chair of state, and withthe triple crown upon his head and a crimson, gold-embroidered mantillaover his shoulders, was seen entering accompanied by his fan-bearers andother usual attendants, and after him the cardinals and bishops. ThePope, as usual, made the sign of the cross as he went. "The procession passing up the great aisle went round to the back of thegreat altar, where was the canopy for the Pope and seats for thecardinals and bishops. The Pope is too feeble to go through the ceremonyof high mass; it was, therefore, performed before him by one of thecardinals. There was nothing in this ceremony that was novel orinteresting; it was the same monotonous chant from the choir, the samenumberless bowings, and genuflections, and puffings of incense, andchange of garments, and fussing about the altar. All that was new was theconstant bustle about the Pope, kissing of his toe and his hand, helpinghim to rise and to sit again, bringing and taking away of cushions androbes and tiaras and mitres, and a thousand other little matters thatwould have enraged any man of weak nerves, if it did not kill him. Aftertwo hours of this tedious work (the people in the mean time perfectlyinattentive), the ceremony ended, and the Pope was again borne throughthe church and the crowd returned. " On July 7, Morse, with four friends, left Rome at four o'clock in themorning for Naples, where they arrived on the 11th after the usualexperiences; beggars continually marring the peaceful beauty of everyscene by their importunities; good inns, with courteous landlords andservants, alternating with wretched taverns and insolent attendants. Thelittle notebook detailing the first ten days' experiences in Naples ismissing, and the next one takes up the narrative on July 24, when he andhis friends are in Sorrento. I shall not transcribe his impressions ofthat beautiful town or those of the island of Capri. These places are toofamiliar to the visitor to Italy and have changed but little in the lasteighty years. Prom Capri they were rowed over to Amalfi, and narrowly escaped beingdashed on the rocks by the sudden rising of a violent gale. At Amalfithey found lodgings in the Franciscan monastery, which is still used asan inn, and here I shall again quote from the journal:-- "The place is in decay and is an excellent specimen of their monasticbuildings. It is now in as romantic a state as the most poeticimagination could desire. Here are gloomy halls and dark and decayedrooms; long corridors of chambers, uninhabited except by the lizard andthe bat; terraces upon the brow of stupendous precipices; gloomy cellswith grated windows, and subterranean apartments and caverns. Remains ofrude frescoes stain the crumbling ceiling, and ivy and various wildplants hang down from the opening crevices and cover the tops of thebroken walls. "A rude sundial, without a gnomon, is almost obliterated from the wall ofthe cloisters, but its motto, '_Dies nostri quasi umbra super terram etnulli est mora_', still resists the effects of decay, as if to serve theappropriate purpose of the convent's epitaph. At the foot of the longstairs in the great hall is the ruined chapel, its altar broken up anddespoiled of its pictures and ornaments. "We were called to dinner by our host, who was accompanied by his wife, avery pretty woman, two children, the elder carried by the mother, theyounger by the old grandparent, an old man of upwards of eighty, whoseemed quite pleased with his burden and delighted to show us his charge. The whole family quite prepossessed us in their favor; there seemed to bean unusual degree of affection displayed by the members towards eachother which we could not but remark at the time. Our dining apartment wasthe old _domus refectionis_ of the convent, as its name, written over thedoor which led into the choir, manifested. After an excellent dinner weretired to our chambers for the night. "_Tuesday, July 27. _ We all rested but badly last night. The heat wasexcessive, the insects, especially mosquitoes, exceedingly troublesome, and the sound of the waves, as they beat against the rocks and chafed thebeach in the gusty night, and the howling of the wind, which for a timemoaned through the deserted chambers of the convent, all made usrestless. I rose several times in the night and, opening my window, looked out on the dark waters of the bay, till the dawn over themountains warned me that the time for sleep was passing away, and I againthrew myself on the bed to rest. But scarcely had I lost myself in sleepbefore the sound of loud voices below and wailings again waked me. Ilooked out of my window on the balcony below; it was filled with armedmen; soldiers and others like brigands with muskets were in hurriedcommotion, calling to each other from the balcony and from the terracedsteps below. "While perplexed in conjecturing the meaning of what I saw, Mr. C. Calledat my door requesting me to rise, as the whole house was in agitation ata terrible accident which had occurred in the night. Dressing in greathaste, I went into the contiguous room and, looking out of the windowdown upon a terrace some thirty feet below, saw the lifeless body of aman, with spots of blood upon his clothes, lying across the font ofwater. A police officer with a band of men appeared, taking down inwriting the particulars for a report. On enquiry I found that the bodywas that of the old man, the father of our host, whom we had seen theevening before in perfect health. He had the dangerous habit of walkingin his sleep and had jumped, it is supposed, in that state out of hischamber window which was directly beneath us; at what time in the nightwas uncertain. His body must have been beneath me while I was lookingfrom my window in the night. "Our host, but particularly his brother, seemed for a time almostinconsolable. The lamentations of the latter over the bloody body (asthey were laying it out in the room where we had the evening beforedined), calling upon his father and mingling his cries with a chant tothe Virgin and to the saints, were peculiarly plaintive, and, soundingthrough the vacant halls of the convent, made a melancholy impressionupon us all. . . . Soon after breakfast we went downstairs; several priestsand funeral attendants had arrived; the poor old man was laid upon a bed, the room darkened, and four wax-lights burned, two each side of the bed. Ashort time was taken in preparation, and then upon a bier borne by fourbearers, a few preceding it with wax-lights, the body, with the faceexposed, as is usual in Italy, was taken down the steep pathway to itslong home. "I could not help remarking the total want of that decent deportment inall those officiating which marks the conduct of those that attend theinterment of the dead in our own country. Even the priests 'seemed to bein high glee, talking and heartily laughing with each other; at what itperplexed me to conjecture. "I went into the room in which the old man had slept; all was as he hadleft it. Over the head of the bed were the rude prints of the Virgin andsaints, which are so common in all the houses of Italy, and which aresupposed to act as charms by these superstitious people. The lamp was onthe window ledge where he had placed it, and his scanty wardrobe upon achair by the bedside. Over the door was a sprig of laurel, placed theresince his death. "The accident of the morning threw a gloom over the whole day; we, however, commenced our sketches from different parts of the convent, andI commenced a picture, a view of Amalfi from the interior of the grotto. " Several of the notebooks are here missing, and from the next in order wefind that the travellers must have lingered in or near Sorrento untilAugust 30, when they returned to Naples. The next entry of interest, while rather gruesome, seems to be worthrecording. "_Wednesday, September 1. _ Morning painting. In the afternoon took a rideround the suburbs and visited the Campo Santo. The Campo Santo is thepublic burial-place. It is a large square enclosure having high walls atthe sides and open at the top. It contains three hundred and sixtyvaults, one of which is opened every day to receive the dead of that day, and is not again opened until all the others in rotation have beenopened. "As we entered the desolate enclosure the only living beings were threemiserable-looking old women gathered together upon the stone of one ofthe vaults. They sat as if performing some incantation, mumbling theirprayers and counting their beads; and one other of the same fraternity, who had been kneeling before a picture, left her position as we enteredand knelt upon another of the vaults, where she remained all the time wewere present, telling her beads. "At the farther end of the enclosure was a large portable lever to raisethe stones which covered the vaults. Upon the promise of a few _grains_the stone of the vault for the day was raised, and, with the precautionof holding our kerchiefs to our noses, we looked down into the darkvault. Death is sufficiently terrible in itself, and the grave in itsbest form has enough of horror to make the stoutest heart quail at thethought, but nothing I have seen or read of can equal the Campo Santo forthe most loathsome and disgusting mode of burial. The human, carcasses ofall ages and sexes are here thrown in together to a depth of, perhaps, twenty feet, without coffins, in heaps, most of them perfectly naked, andleft to corrupt in a mass, like the offal from a slaughter house. Sodisgusting a spectacle I never witnessed. There were in sight abouttwenty bodies, men, women, and children. A child of about six years, withbeautiful fair hair, had fallen across the body of a man and lay in theattitude of sleeping. "But I cannot describe the positions of all without offence, so Iforbear. We were glad to turn away and retrace our steps to our carriage. Never, I believe, in any country, Christian or pagan, is there aninstance of such total want of respect for the remains of the dead. " [Illustration: DE WITT CLINTONPainted by Morse. Property of the Metropolitan Museum of Art] On September 5, he again reverts to the universal plague of beggars inItaly:-- "In passing through the country you may not take notice of a pretty childor seem pleased with it; so soon as you do the mother will instantlyimportune you for '_qualche cosa_' for the child. Neither can you ask fora cup of cold water at a cottage door, nor ask the way to the nextvillage, nor even make the slightest inquiry of a peasant on any subject, but the result will be '_qualche cosa, signore_. ' The first act which achild is taught in Italy is to hold out its hand to beg. Children tooyoung to speak I have seen holding out their little hands for thatpurpose, and so mechanical is this action that I have seen, in oneinstance, a boy of nine years nodding in his sleep and yet at regularintervals extending his hand to beg. Begging is here no disgrace; on thecontrary, it is made respectable by the customs of the Church. " On September 6, after visiting the catacombs, he goes to the Convent ofSt. Martino, and indulges in this rhapsody:-- "From a terrace and balcony two views of the beautiful scenery of thecity and bay are obtained. From the latter place especially you look downupon the city which is spread like a model far beneath you. There is agreat deal of the sublime in thus looking down upon a populous city; onefeels for the time separated from the concerns of the world. "We forget, while we consider the insignificance of that individual man, moving in yonder street and who is scarcely visible to us, that weourselves are equally insignificant. It is in such a situation that thesuperiority of the mind over the body is felt. Paradoxical as it may atfirst seem, its greatness is evinced in the feeling of its ownlittleness. . . . After gazing here for a while we were shown into thechapel through the choir. . . . In the sacristy is a picture of a deadChrist with the three Marys and Joseph, by Spagnoletto, not only thefinest picture by that master, but I am quite inclined to say that it isthe finest picture I have yet seen. There is in it a more perfect unionof the great qualities of art, --fine conception, just design, admirabledisposition of _chiaroscuro_, exquisite color, --whether truth isconsidered or choice of tone in congruity with the subject's mostmasterly execution and just character and expression. If any objectionwere to be made it would, perhaps, be in the particular of character, which, in elevation, in ideality, falls far short of Raphael. In otherpoints it has not its superior. " Returning to Rome on September 14, the only entries I find in the journalfor the first few days are, "Painting all day at home, " and a shortaccount of a soirée at the Persianis'. "_Monday, September 20. _ Began the portrait of the celebrated sculptorThorwaldsen. He is a most amiable man and is universally respected. Hewas never married. In early life he had two children by a mistress; one, a daughter, is now in a convent. It was said that a noble lady ofEngland, of great fortune, became attached to him, and he no less to her, but that the circumstance of his having two illegitimate childrenprevented a marriage. He is the greatest sculptor of the age. I havestudied his works; they are distinguished for simple dignity, justexpression, and truth in character and design. The composition is alsocharacterized by simplicity. These qualities combined endow them withthat beauty which we so much admire in the works of Greece, whether inliterature or art. Thorwaldsen cannot be said to imitate the antique; herather seems to be one born in the best age of Grecian art; imbued withthe spirit of that age, and producing from his own resources kindredworks. " The following letter was written by Morse before he left Rome for Naples, but can be more appropriately introduced at this point:-- TO THE CAVALIER THORWALDSEN, MY DEAR SIR, --I had hoped to have the pleasure of painting your portrait, for which you were so good as to promise to sit, before I left Rome forNaples; but the weather is becoming so oppressive, and there being aparty of friends about to travel the same road, I have consented to jointhem. I shall return to Rome in September or October, and I therefore begyou will allow me then to claim the fulfilment of your kind promise. What a barrier, my dear sir, is difference of language to socialintercourse! I never felt the curse that befell the architects of Babelso sensibly as now, since, as one of the effects of their folly, I amdebarred from the gratification and profit which I had promised myself inbeing known to you. With highest respect, etc. Curiously enough, Morse never learned to speak a foreign languagefluently, although he could read quite easily French and, I believe, German and Italian, and from certain passages in his journal we inferthat he could make himself understood by the Italians. The portrait of Thorwaldsen was completed and became the property ofPhilip Hone, Esq. , who had given Morse a commission to paint a picturefor one hundred dollars, the subject to be left to the discretion of theartist. Mr. Hone valued the portrait highly, and it remained in hisgallery until his death. It was then sold and Morse lost track of it formany years. In 1868, being particularly desirous of gaining possession ofit again, for a purpose which is explained in a letter quoted a littlefarther on, he instituted a search for it, and finally learned that ithad been purchased by Mr. John Taylor Johnston for four hundred dollars. Before he could enter into negotiations for its purchase, Mr. Johnstonheard of his desire to possess it, and of his reasons for this wish, andhe generously insisted on presenting it to Morse. I shall now quote the following extracts from a letter written inDresden, on January 23, 1868, to Mr. Johnston:-- MY DEAR SIR, --Your letter of the 6th inst. Is this moment received, inwhich I have been startled by your most generous offer presenting me withmy portrait of the renowned Thorwaldsen, for which he sat to me in Romein 1831. I know not in what terms, my dear sir, to express to you my thanks forthis most acceptable gift. I made an excursion to Copenhagen in thesummer of 1856, as a sort of devout pilgrimage to the tombs of tworenowned Danes, whose labors in their respective departments--the one, Oersted, of science, the other, Thorwaldsen, of art--have so greatlyenriched the world. The personal kindness of the late King Frederick VII, who courteouslyreceived me at his castle of Fredericksborg, through the specialpresentation of Colonel Raslof (more recently the Danish Minister atWashington); the hospitalities of many of the principal citizens ofCopenhagen; the visits to the tomb and museum of the works ofThorwaldsen, and to the room in which the immortal Oersted made hisbrilliant electro-magnetic discovery; the casual and accidentalintroduction and interview with a daughter of Oersted, --all created atrain of reflection which prompted me to devise some suitable mode ofshowing to these hospitable people my appreciation of their friendlyattentions, and I proposed to myself the presentation to His Majesty theKing of Denmark of this portrait of Thorwaldsen, for which he sat to mein Rome, and with which I knew he was specially pleased. My desire to accomplish this purpose was further strengthened by theadditional attention of the King at a later period in sending me thedecoration of his order of the Danebrog. From the moment this purpose wasformed, twelve years ago, I have been desirous of obtaining thisportrait, and watching for the opportunity of possessing it again. Here follows a detailed account of the circumstances of the painting ofthe portrait and of its disappearance, with which we are familiar, and hecloses by saying:-- "This brief history will show you, my dear sir, what a boon you haveconferred upon me. Indeed, it seems like a dream, and if my most cordialthanks, not merely for the _gift_, but for the graceful and generousmanner in which it has been offered, is any compensation, you may be surethey are yours. "These are no conventional words, but they come from a heart that cangratefully appreciate the noble sentiments which have prompted yourgenerous act. " Returning from this little excursion into later years, I shall take upthe narrative again as revealed in the notebooks. While occasionallyvisiting the opera and the theatre, Morse does not altogether approve ofthem, and, on September 21, he indulges in the following reflections onthem and on the social evil:-- "No females of openly dissolute character were seen, such as occupyparticular parts of the theatre in England and America. Indeed, theynever appear on the streets of Rome in that unblushing manner as inLondon, and even in New York and Philadelphia. It must not from hence beinferred that vice is less frequent here than elsewhere; there is enoughof it, but it is carried on in secret; it is deeper and preys more on thevitals of society than with us. This vice with us, like a humor on theskin, deforms the surface, but here it infects the very heart; the wholesystem is affected; it is rotten to the core. "Theatres here and with us are different institutions. Here, wherethousands for want of thought, or rather matter for thought, would die ofennui, where it is an object to escape from home and even from one'sself, the theatre serves the purpose of a momentary excitement. A newpiece, a new performer, furnishes matter for conversation and turns offthe mind from the discussion of points of theology or politics. Thetheatre is therefore encouraged by the Government and is guarded againstthe abuses of popular assemblage by strong military guards. "But what have we to do with theatres in America? Have we not the wholeworld of topics for discussion or conversation open to us? Is not truthin religion, politics, and science suffered to be assailed by enemiesfreely, and does it not, therefore, require the time of all intelligentmen to study, and understand, and defend, and fortify themselves intruth? Have we time to throw away? "More than this, have we not homes where domestic endearments charm us, where domestic duties require our attention, where the relations of wife, of husband, of children have the ties of mutual affection and mutualconfidence to attach us to our firesides? Need we go abroad foramusement? Can the theatre, with all its tinsel finery, attract away fromhome the man who has once tasted the bliss of a happy family circle? Isthere no pleasure in seeing that romping group of children, in the heydayof youth, amuse themselves ere they go to rest; is there no pleasure instudying the characters of your little family as they thus undisguisedlydisplay themselves, and so give you the opportunity of directing theirminds to the best advantage? Is there no amusement in watching thedevelopment of the infant mind and in assisting its feeble efforts? "He must be of most unsocial mould who can leave the thousand charms ofhome to pass those precious hours in the noxious atmosphere of a theatre, there to be excited, to return at midnight, to rise from a late bed, topass the best hours of the day in a feverish reverie succeeded by thenatural depression which is sure to follow, and to crave a renewedindulgence. Repeated renewal causes indifference and ennui to succeed, till excitement is no longer produced, but gives place to a habit oflistless indifference, or a spirit of captious criticism. "_Monday, November 8, 1830. _ A year to-day since I left home. "_Tuesday, November 9. _ Ignorance at post-office. Sent letters for UnitedStates to England, because the United States belong to England! "_Wednesday, December 1. _ Many reports for some days past prepared us forthe announcement of the death of the Pope, Pius VIII, who died lastevening at nine o'clock at the Quirinal Palace. " The ceremonies connected with the funeral of the dead Pope and with thechoice of his successor are described at great length, and the eye of theartist was fascinated by the wealth of color and the pomp, while hisProtestant soul was wearied and disgusted by the tediousness and mummeryof the ceremonials. "_December 14. _ Much excitement has been created by fear of revolution, but from what cause I cannot learn. Many arrests and banishments haveoccurred, among whom are some of the Bonaparte family. Artists aresuspected of being Liberals. "An assassination occurred at one of the altars in St. John Lateran a fewweeks ago. A young man, jealous of a girl, whom he thought to be morepartial to another, stabbed her to the heart while at mass. "_Saturday, January 1, 1831. _ At the beginning of the year, as with us, you hear the salutation of '_felicissimo capo d'anno_, ' and the custom ofcalling and felicitating friends is nearly the same as in New York, withthis difference, indeed, that there is no cheer in Rome as with our goodpeople at home. "_Friday, January 14. _ In the afternoon Count Grice and the Honorable Mr. Spencer, son of Earl Spencer, who has within a few years been convertedto the Catholic faith, called. Had an interesting conversation with himon religious topics, in which the differences of the Protestant andCatholic faiths were discussed; found him a candid, fair-minded man, butevidently led away by a too easy assent to the sophistry and fable whichhave been dealt out to him. He gave me a slight history of his change; Ishall see him again. "_Tuesday, January 18. _ Called with Count Grice on the Honorable Mr. Spencer at the English College and was introduced to the rector, Dr. Wiseman. After a few moments went into the library with Mr. Spencer andcommenced the argument, in which being interrupted we retired to hisroom, where for three hours we discussed various points of difference inour faith. Many things I urged were not answered, such as the fruits ofthe Catholic religion in the various countries where it prevails; theobjection concerning forbidding to marry; idolatry of the Virgin Mary, etc. , etc. ; yet there is a gentleness, an amiability in the man whichmakes me think him sincere but deceived. "_Wednesday, February 2. _ Went this morning at ten o'clock to hear asermon by Mr. Spencer in the chapel of the English College. It was on theoccasion of the _festa_ of the purification of the Virgin. Many partswere good, and I could agree with him in the general scope of hisdiscourse. "While we were in the chapel the cannon of St. Angelo announced theelection of the new Pope. I hurried to the Quirinal Palace to see theceremony of announcing him to the people, but was too late. The ceremonywas over, the walled window was broken down and the cardinals hadpresented the new Pope on the balcony. He is Cardinal Cappellari who hastaken the title of Gregorio XVI. To-morrow he will go to St. Peter's. " CHAPTER XVIII FEBRUARY 10, 1831--SEPTEMBER 12, 1831. Historic events witnessed by Morse. --Rumors of revolution. --Danger toforeigners. --Coronation of the new Pope. --Pleasant experience. --Cause ofthe revolution a mystery. --Bloody plot foiled. --Plans to leave forFlorence. --Sends casts, etc. , to National Academy of Design. --LeavesRome. --Dangers of the journey. --Florence. --Description of meeting withPrince Radziwill in Coliseum at Rome. --Copies portraits of Rubens andTitian in Florence. --Leaves Florence for Venice. --Disagreeable voyage onthe Po. --Venice, beautiful but smelly. --Copies Tintoret's "Miracle of theSlave. "--Thunderstorms. --Reflections on the Fourth of July. --LeavesVenice. --Recoaro. --Milan. --Reflections on Catholicism and art. --Como andMaggiore. --The Rigi. --Schaffhausen and Heidelberg. --Evades the quarantineon French border. --Thrilling experience. --Paris. It was Morse's good fortune to have been a spectator, at various timesand in different places, of events of more or less historical moment. Wehave seen that he was in England during the War of 1812; that hewitnessed the execution of the assassin of a Prime Minister; that he wasa keen and interested observer of the festivities in honor of a Czar ofRussia, a King of France, and a famous general (Blücher); and althoughnot mentioned in his correspondence, he was fond of telling how he hadseen the ship sailing away to distant St. Helena bearing the conqueredNapoleon Bonaparte into captivity. Now, while he was diligently pursuinghis art in Rome, he was privileged to witness the funeral obsequies ofone Pope and the ceremonies attendant upon the installation of hissuccessor. In future years the same good fortune followed him. His presence on these occasions was not always unattended by danger tohimself. His discretion during the years of war between England andAmerica saved him from possible annoyance or worse, and now again in Romehe was called upon to exercise the same virtue, for the Church hadentered upon troublous times, and soon the lives of foreigners were indanger, and many of them left the city. On Thursday, February 10, there is this entry in the journal: "Therevolutions in the Papal States to the north at Bologna and Ancona, andin the Duchy of Modena, have been made known at Rome. Great consternationprevails. " We learn further that, on February 12, "Rumors of conspiracyare numerous. The time, the places of rendezvous, and even the numbersare openly talked of. The streets are filled with the people who gaze ateach other inquisitively, and apprehension seems marked on every face. The shops are shutting, troops are stationed in the piazzas, andeverything wears a gloomy aspect. At half-past seven a discharge ofmusketry is heard. Among the reports of the day is one that theTrasteverini have plotted to massacre the _forestieri_ in case of arevolt. " While the festivities of the Carnival were, on account of thesedisturbances, ordered by the Pope to be discontinued, the religiousceremonies were still observed, and, going to St. Peter's one day--"towitness the ceremonies of consecration as a bishop and coronation as aking of the Pope"--Morse had this pleasant experience:-- "The immense area seemed already filled; a double line of soldiersenclosed a wide space, from the great door through the middle of thechurch, on each side of the altar, and around the richly enclosed spacewhere were erected the two papal thrones and the seats for the cardinals. Into this soldier-invested space none but the privileged were permittedto enter; ambassadors, princes, dukes, and nobles of every degree wereseen, in all their splendor of costume, promenading. "I was with the crowd without, making up my mind to see nothing of theceremonies, but, being in full dress, and remembering that, on formeroccasions, I had been admitted as a stranger within the space, Idetermined to make the effort again. I therefore edged myself through themass of people until I reached the line of soldiers, and, catching theeye of the commanding officer as he passed by, I beckoned to him, and, ashe came to me, I said, '_Sono un Americano, un forestiero, signore_, 'which I had no sooner said than, taking me by the hand, he drew me in, and, politely bowing, gave me leave to go where I pleased. " From this point of vantage he had an excellent view of all theceremonies, which were much like the others he had witnessed and do notneed to be described. He wanted very much to go to Florence at this time to fulfil some of thecommissions he had received for copies of famous paintings in that city, but his departure was delayed, for, as he notes on February 13:-- "There are many alarming rumors, one in particular that the Trasteveriniand Galleotti, or galley slaves, have been secretly armed by theGovernment, and that the former are particularly incensed against the_forestieri_ as the supposed instigators of the revolution. . . . Thesefacts have thrown us all into alarm, for we know not what excesses suchmen may be guilty of when excited by religious enthusiasm to revengethemselves on those they call heretics. We are compelled, too, to remainin Rome from the state of the country, it being not safe to travel onaccount of brigands who now infest the roads. "_February 15. _ I have never been in a place where it was so difficult toascertain the truth as in this city. I have enquired the reason of thismovement hostile to the Government, but cannot ascertain precisely itsobject. Some say it is to deprive the Pope of his temporal power, --andsome Catholics seem to think that their religion would flourish thebetter for it; others that it is a plan, long digested, for bringing allItaly under one government, having it divided into so many federativestates, like the United States. . . . "The Trasteverini seem to be a peculiar class, proud, as believingthemselves to be the only true descendants from the ancient Romans, and, therefore, hating the other Romans. Poor from that very pride; ignorantand attached to their faith, they are the class of all others to bedreaded in a season of anarchy. It is easy by flattery, by a littledistribution of money, and by a cry of danger to their religion, to rousethem to any degree of enthusiasm, and no one can set bounds to theexcesses of such a set of fiends when let loose upon society. "The Government at present have them in their interest, and, while thatis the case, no danger is to be dreaded. It is in that state of anarchywhich, for a longer or shorter period, intervenes in the changes ofgovernment, between the established rule of the one and of the other, that such a class of men is to be feared. "_February 17. _ The plan said to have been determined on by theconspirators was this: The last night of the Carnival was fixed for theexecution of the plan. This was Tuesday night when it is customary tohave the _moccoletti_, or small wax-candles, lighted by the crowd. Theconspirators were each to be placed, as it were by accident, by the sideof a soldier (which in so great a crowd could be done without suspicion), and, when the cannon fired which gave the signal for closing the course, it was also to serve as a signal for each one to turn upon the soldierand, by killing him, to seize his arms. This would, indeed, have been abloody scene, and for humanity's sake it is well that it was discoveredand prevented. "_February 20. _ I learn that the Pope is desirous of yielding to thespirit of the times, and is disposed to grant a constitution to thepeople, but that the cardinals oppose it. He is said also to be preparedto fly from Rome, and even has declared his intention of resigning thedignity of Pope and retiring again to the solitude of the convent. "_February 24. _ It seems to be no longer doubtful that a revolutionaryarmy is approaching Rome from the revolted provinces, and that theyadvance rapidly. . . . The city is tranquil enough; no troops are seen, except at night a sentinel at some corner cries as you pass, '_Chiviva?_' and you are obliged to cry, '_Il Papa_'; which one may surely dowith a good conscience, for he is entitled to great respect for hispersonal character. "_February 25. _ Went to-day to get my passport viséed for Florence, whither I intended to go on Tuesday next, but am advised by the consuland others not to risk the journey at present, as it is unsafe. " I break the continuity of the narrative for a moment to note that whileMorse was making copies of famous paintings in Rome, and studyingintelligently the works of the old masters, he was not forgetful of theyoung academy at home, which he had helped to found and of which he wasstill president. On March 1 he writes jubilantly to the secretary, J. L. Morton, that he has succeeded in obtaining by gift a number of casts ofancient and modern sculpture which he will send home by the firstopportunity. Among the generous donors he mentions Thorwaldsen, DanielCoit, Esq. , Richard Wyatt, Esq. , Signor Trentanove, and George WashingtonLee, Esq. He adds at the end of the letter:-- "I leave Rome immediately and know not when I shall be allowed to rest, the revolution here having turned everything into confusion, renderingthe movements of travellers uncertain and unsafe, and embarrassing mystudies and those of other artists exceedingly. I shall try to go toFlorence, but must pass through the two hostile armies and through acountry which, in a season of confusion like the present, is sure to beinfested with brigands. If I reach Florence in safety and am allowed toremain, which is somewhat doubtful, you shall hear of me again, eitherdirectly or through my brothers. " Mr. Morton, answering this letter on May 22, informs Morse of hisreëlection as president of the National Academy of Design, and adds: "Bythe by, talking of coming back, do try and make your arrangements as soonas possible. We want you very much, if it is only to set us all rightagain. We begin to feel the want of our _Head Man_. " Reverting to the journal again, we find this note: "March 3. For somedays past I have been engaged in packing up and taking leave, andyesterday was introduced by the Count le Grice to Cardinal Weld, whoreceived me very politely, presented me with a book, and sent me twoletters of introduction to London. " On March 4, Morse, with four companions, started from Rome on theseemingly perilous journey to Florence. They passed through the lines ofboth armies, but, contrary to their expectations, they were mostcourteously treated by the officers on both sides. It is true that theylearned afterwards that they came near being arrested at CivitaCastellana, where the Papal army was assembled in force, for--"When wetook leave of the Marquis at Terni he told us that it was well we leftCivita Castellana as we did, for an order for our arrest was making out, and in a few minutes more we should not have been allowed to leave theplace. Indeed, when I think of the case, it was a surprising thing thatwe were allowed to go into all parts of the place, to see their position, to count their men and know their strength, and then to immediately passover to their enemy and to give him, if we chose, all the informationthat any spy could have given. " It is not within the province of this work to deal at length with thepolitical movements of the times. As we have seen, Morse was fortunate inavoiding danger, and we learn from history that this revolt, whichthreatened at one time to become very serious, was eventually suppressedby the Papal arms aided by the Austrians. Having passed safely through the zone of danger, they travelled on, and, on March 9:-- "At half-past three the _beautiful city_ was seen to our left reposing insunshine in the wide vale of the Arno. The Duomo and the Campanile werethe most conspicuous objects. At half-past four we entered Florence andobtained rooms at the Leone Bianco in the Via Vigna Nuova. "_March 10. _ We found to-day, to our great discomfiture, that we areallowed by the police to stay but three days in the city. No entreatiesthrough our consul, nor offers of guaranty on his part, availed to softentowards us the rigor of the decree, which they say applies to allforeigners. I have written to our consul at Leghorn to petition theGovernment for our stay, as Mr. Ombrosi, the United States Consul here, is not accredited by the Government. " He must have succeeded in obtaining permission to remain, although thefact is not noted in the journal, for the next entry is on April 11, andfinds him still in Florence. It begins: "Various engagements preventingmy entering regularly in my journal every day's events as they occurred, I have been compelled to make a gap, which I fill up from recollection. " Before following him further, however, I shall quote from a letterwritten to his brothers on April 15, but referring to events whichhappened some time before:-- "We have recently heard of the disasters of the Poles. What noble people;how deserving of their freedom. I must tell you of an interestingcircumstance that occurred to me in relation to Poland. It was in thelatter part of June of last year, just as I was completing myarrangements for my journey to Naples, that I was tempted by one of thosesplendid moonlight evenings, so common in Italy, to visit once more theruins of the Coliseum. I had frequently been to the Coliseum in company, but now I had the curiosity to go alone--I wished to enjoy, if possible, its solitude and its solemn grandeur unannoyed by the presence of anyone. "It was eleven o'clock when I left my lodgings and no one was walking atthat hour in the solitary streets of Rome. From the Corso to the Forumall was as still as in a deserted city. The ruins of the Forum, thetemples and pillars, the Arch of Titus and the gigantic arcade of theTemple of Peace, seemed to sleep in the gravelike stillness of the air. The only sound that reached my ears was that of my own footsteps. Islowly proceeded, stopping occasionally, and listening and enjoying theprofound repose and the solemn, pure light, so suited to the ruinedmagnificence around me. As I approached the Coliseum the shriek of an owland the answering echo broke the stillness for a moment, and all wasstill again. "I reached the entrance, before which paced a lonely sentinel, his armsflashing in the moonbeams. He abruptly stopped me and told me I could notenter. I asked him why. He replied that his orders were to let no onepass. I told him I knew better, that he had no such orders, that he wasplaced there to protect visitors, and not to prevent their entrance, andthat I should pass. Finding me resolute (for I knew by experience hismotive was merely to extort money), he softened in his tone, and wishedme to wait until he could speak to the sergeant of the guard. To this Iassented, and, while he was gone, a party of gentlemen approached also tothe entrance. One of them, having heard the discourse between thesentinel and myself, addressed me. Perceiving that he was a foreigner, Iasked him if he spoke English. He replied with a slight accent, 'Yes, alittle. You are an Englishman, sir?' 'No, ' I replied, 'I am an Americanfrom the United States. ' 'Indeed, ' said he, 'that is much better'; and, extending his hand, he shook me cordially by the hand, adding, 'I have agreat respect for your country and I know many of your countrymen. ' Hethen mentioned Dr. Jarvis and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, the latter ofwhom he said was held in the greatest estimation in Europe, and nowheremore so than in his country, Poland, where his works were more soughtafter than those of Scott, and his mind was esteemed of an equal if notof a superior cast. "This casual introduction of literary topics furnished us with amplematter for conversation while we were not engaged in contemplating thesublime ruins over which, when the sentinel returned, we climbed. I askedhim respecting the literature of Poland, and particularly if there werenow any living poets of eminence. He observed: 'Yes, sir, I am happilytravelling in company with the most celebrated of our poets, Meinenvitch'; and who, as I understood him, was one of the party walkingin another part of the ruins. "Engaged in conversation we left the Coliseum together and slowlyproceeded into the city. I told him of the deep interest with whichPoland was regarded in the United States, and that her heroes were spokenof with the same veneration as our own. As some evidence of thisestimation I informed him of the monument erected by the cadets of WestPoint to the memory of Kosciusko. With this intelligence he was evidentlymuch affected; he took my hand and exclaimed with great enthusiasm andemphatically: 'We, too, sir, shall be free; the time is coming; we tooshall be free; my unhappy country will be free. ' (This was before therevolution in France. ) "As I came to the street where we were to part he took out his notebook, and, going under the lamp of a Madonna, near the Piazza Colonna, hewished me to write my name for him among the other names of Americanswhich he had treasured in his book. I complied with his request. Inbidding me adieu he said: 'It will be one of my happiest recollections ofRome that the last night which I passed in this city was passed in theColiseum, and with an American, a citizen of a free country. If youshould ever visit Warsaw, pray enquire for Prince----; I shall beexceedingly glad to see you. ' "Thus I parted with this interesting Pole. That I should have forgotten aPolish name, pronounced but once, you will not think extraordinary. Thesequel remains to be told. When the Polish revolution broke out, what wasmy surprise to find the poet Meinenvitch and a prince, whose name seemedlike that which he pronounced to me, and to which was added--'justreturned from Italy'--among the first members of the provisionalgovernment. " Morse assured himself afterwards, and so noted it in his journal, thatthis chance acquaintance was Prince Michael Jerome Radziwill, who hadserved as lieutenant in the war of independence under Kosciusko; foughtunder Napoleon in Russia (by whom he was made a brigadier-general); and, shortly after the meeting in the Coliseum, was made general-in-chief ofthe Polish army. After the defeat of this army he was banished to centralRussia until 1836, when he retired to Dresden. Reverting again to the notebooks, we find that Florence, with her wealthof beauty in architecture, sculpture, and painting, appealed strongly tothe artist, and the notes are chiefly descriptions of what he sees, andwhich it will not be necessary to transcribe. He had, during all the timehe was in Italy, been completing, one after another, the copies for whichhe had received commissions, and had been sending them home. He thusdescribes to his friend, Mr. Van Schaick, the paintings made for him:-- "_Florence, May 12, 1831. _ I have at length completed the two pictureswhich you were so kind as to commission me to execute for you, and theyare packed in a case, ready to send to you from Leghorn by the firstopportunity, through Messrs. Bell, de Yongh & Co. Of that city. "As your request was that these pictures should be heads, I have chosentwo of the most celebrated in the gallery of portraits in the FlorenceGallery. These are the heads of Rubens and Titian from the portraits bythemselves. As the portraits of the two great masters of color they willalone be interesting, but they are more so from giving a fair specimen oftheir two opposite styles of color. That of Rubens, from its gaiety, willdoubtless be more popular, but that of Titian, from its sobriety anddignity, pleases me better. In hanging the pictures they should be placedapart. The styles are so opposed that, were they placed near to eachother, they would mutually affect each other unfavorably. Rubens may beplaced in more obscurity, but Titian demands to be more in the light. "I have no time to add, as I am preparing to leave Florence on Monday forBologna and Venice. " Travelling in Italy in those days was fraught with many annoyances, for, in addition to the slow progress made in the _vetture_, there seems tohave been (judging from the journal) a _dogana_, or custom-house, everyfew miles, where the luggage and clothing of travellers were examined, sometimes hastily and courteously, sometimes with more rigor. And yetthis leisurely rate of progress, the travellers walking up most of thehills, must have had a charm unknown to the present-day tourist, who iswhisked unseeing through the most characteristic parts of a foreigncountry. The beautiful scenery of the Apennines was in this way enjoyedto the full by the artist, but I shall not linger over the journey norshall I include any notes concerning Bologna. He found the city mostinteresting--"A piece of porphyry set in verd antique"--and those to whomhe had letters of introduction more hospitable than in any other city inItaly. From Bologna the route lay through Ferrara and then to Pontelagoscuro onthe river Po, where he was to take the courier boat for Venice, down thePo and through a canal. To add to the discomforts of this part of thetrip it rained steadily for several days, and, on May 22, Morse paintsthis dreary picture:-- "When we waked this morning we found it still raining and, apparently, soto continue all day. The rainy day at a country inn, so exquisitelydescribed by Irving in all its disagreeable features, is now before us. Asolitary inn with nothing indoors to attract; cold and damp and dark. Theprospect from the windows is a low muddy foreground, the north bank ofthe muddy Po; a pile of brushwood, a heap of offal, a melancholy group ofcattle, who show no other signs of life than the occasional sly attack byone of them upon a poor, dripping, half-starved dog, who, with tailbetween his legs, now and then ventures near them to search for hismiserable meal. Beyond, on the river, a few barks silently lying upon thestream, and on the opposite bank some buildings with a church and acampanile dimly seen through the mist. After coffee we were obliged to goto the _dogana_ to see to the searching of all our trunks and luggage. The principals were present and we were not severely searched. AFrenchman, however, who had come on a little before us, was stripped tohis skin, some papers were found upon him, and I understand he has madehis escape and they are now searching for him. . . . "At 2. 30, after having dined, we waded through the mud in a pelting rainto the _dogana_ for our luggage, and, after getting completely wet, weembarked on board the courier boat, with a cabin seven feet long, sixfeet wide, and six high, into which six of us, having a gentleman fromTrieste and his mother added to our number, were crowded, with nobeds. . . . Rain, rain, rain!!! in torrents, cold and dreary through aperfectly flat country. . . . At ten o 'clock we arrived at a place calledCavanella, where is a _locanda_ upon the canal which should have beenopen to receive us, but they were all asleep and no calling would rousethem. So we were obliged to go supperless to bed, and such abed! Therebeing no room to spread mattresses for six in the cabin, three dirtymattresses, without sheets or blankets, were laid on the floor of theforward cabin (if it might so be called). This cabin was a hole down intowhich two or three steps led. We could not stand upright, --indeed, kneeling, our heads touched the top, --and when stretched at full lengththe tallest of us could touch with his head and feet from side to side. But, it being dreary and damp without and we being sleepy, we considerednot the place, nor its inconveniences, nor its little pests which annoyedus all night, nor its vicinity to a magazine of cheese, with which theboat was laden and the odors from which assailed us. We lay down in ourclothes and slept; the rain pattering above our heads only causing us tosleep the sounder. " Continuing their leisurely journey in this primitive manner, the rainfinally ceasing, but the sky remaining overcast and the weather cold andwintry, they reached Chioggia, and "At 11. 30, the towers and spires ofVenice were seen at a distance before us rising from the sea. " Venice, ofcourse, was a delight to Morse's eye, but his nose was affected quitedifferently, for he says: "Those that have resided in Venice a long timesay it is not an unhealthy place. I cannot believe it, for the odors fromthe canals cannot but produce illness of some kind. That which isconstantly offensive to any of our organs of sense must affect theminjuriously. " Several severe thunderstorms broke over the city while he was there, andone was said to be the worst which had been known within the memory ofthe oldest inhabitant. After describing it he adds: "I was at theAcademy. The rain penetrated through the ceiling at the corner of thepicture I was copying--'The Miracle of the Slave, ' by Tintoret--andthreatened injury to it, but happily it escaped. " On June 19, he thus moralizes: "The Piazza of St. Mark is the great placeof resort, and on every evening, but especially on Sundays or _festas_, the arcades and cafés are crowded with elegantly dressed females andtheir gallants. Chairs are placed in great numbers under the awningsbefore the cafés. A people that have no homes, who are deprived frompolicy of that domestic and social intercourse which we enjoy, must haverecourse to this empty, heartless enjoyment; an indolent enjoyment, whenall their intercourse, too, is in public, surrounded by police agents andsoldiers to prevent excess. Hallam, in his 'Middle Ages, ' has this justreflection on the condition of this same city when under the Council ofTen: 'But how much more honorable are the wildest excesses of factionthan the stillness and moral degradation of servitude. ' Quiet is, indeed, obtained here, but at what immense expense! Expense of wealth, althoughexcessive, is nothing compared with the expense of morality and of allintellectual exercise. " On June 23, he witnessed another thunderstorm from the Piazza of St. Mark:-- "The lightning, flashing in the dark clouds that were gathering from theTyrolese Alps, portended another storm which soon burst over us andhastened the conclusion of the music. The lightning was incessant. Istood at the corner of the piazza and watched the splendid effects oflights and darks, in a moment coming and in a moment gone, on thecampanile and church of St. Mark's. It was most sublime. The gilt statueof the angel on the top of the campanile never looked so sublime, seemingto be enveloped in the glory of the vivid light, and, as the electricfluid flashed behind it from cloud to cloud incessantly, it seemed to goand come at the bidding of the angel. " This sounds almost like a prophetic vision, written by the pencil of theman who, in a few years from then, was to make the lightning go and comeat his bidding. "_July 4. _ This anniversary of the day of our national birth found buttwo Americans in Venice. We met in the evening over a cup of coffee andthought and talked of the happiest of countries. We had no patriotictoasts, but the sentiments of our hearts were--'Peace be within thy wallsand prosperity within thy palaces. ' Never on any anniversary of ourIndependence have I felt so strongly the great reason I have forgratitude in having been born in such a country. When I think of theinnumerable blessings we enjoy over every other country in the world, Iam constrained to praise God who hath made us to differ, for 'He hath notdealt so with any nation, and as for his judgments, we have not knownthem. ' While pestilence and famine and war surround me here in thesedevoted countries, I fix my thoughts on one bright spot on earth; truly(if our too ungrateful countrymen would but see it), truly a terrestrialparadise. " This attack of nostalgia was probably largely due to atmosphericconditions, for at least one thunderstorm seems to have been a matter ofdaily occurrence. This, added to the noisome odors arising from thecanals, affected his health, for he complains of feeling more unwell thanat any time since he left home. It must, therefore, have been with nofeelings of great regret that he packed his belongings and prepared toleave Venice with a companion, Mr. Ferguson, of Natchez, on the 18th ofJuly. His objective point was Paris, but he planned to linger by the wayand take a leisurely course through the Italian lake region, Switzerland, and Germany. The notebooks give a detailed but rather dry account of thedaily happenings. It was, presumably, Morse's intention to elaboratethese, at some future day, into a more entertaining record of hiswanderings; but this was never done. I shall, therefore, pass on rapidly, touching but lightly on the incidents of the journey, which were, in themain, without special interest. The route lay through Padua, Vicenza, Verona, and Brescia to Milan. From Vicenza a side trip was made to thewatering-place of Recoaro, where a few days were most delightfully spentin the company of the English consul at Venice, Mr. Money, and hisfamily. "Recoaro, like all watering-places, is beginning to be the resort of thefashionable world. The Grand Duchess of Tuscany is now here, and onSaturday the Vice-Queen of Italy is expected from Milan to visit heraunt, the Grand Duchess. . . . Towards evening parties of ladies andgentlemen are seen promenading or riding on donkeys along the brows ofthe mountains and among the trees, and many priests are seen disfiguringthe landscape with their tasteless, uncouth dresses; most of them coming, I was informed on the best authority, for the purpose of gambling anddissipating that time of which, from the trifling nature of their dutiesand the almost countless increase of their numbers, they have so much tospare. Cards have the most fascination for them. " Another incident of the stay at Recoaro is worth recording. Referring tothe family of Mr. Money, he says:-- "In the afternoon took an excursion on donkeys with the whole familyamong the wild and romantic scenery. In returning, while riding by theside of Mr. Money and in conversation with him, my donkey stumbled uponhis knees and threw me over his head, without injury to me, but Mrs. Money, who was just before me, seeing the accident, was near faintingand, during the rest of the day, was invisible. I was somewhat surprisedat the effect produced on her until I learned that the news of the lossof her son in India by a fall from his horse, which had recently reachedher, had rendered her nerves peculiarly sensitive. " Two days later, however, he joined them in another excursion. "On returning we stopped to take tea at Mrs. Ireland's lodgings, anEnglish lady who is here with her two daughters, accomplished and highlyagreeable people. I was told by them that after I left Rome a mostdiabolical attempt was made to poison the English artists who had made aparty to Grotto Ferrata. They were mistaken by the persons who attemptedthe deed for Germans. They all became exceedingly ill immediately afterdinner, and, as the wine was the only thing they had taken there, havingbrought their food with them, it was suspected and a strong solution ofcopper was proved to be in it. I was told that Messrs. Gibson andDesoulavy suffered a great deal, the latter being confined to his bed forthree weeks. Had I been in Rome it is more than probable I should havebeen of their party, for I had never visited Grotto Ferrata, and thecompany of those with whom I had associated would have induced me to jointhem without a doubt. " Morse enjoyed his stay at Recoaro so much that he was persuaded by hishospitable friends to prolong his visit for a few days longer than he hadplanned, but, on July 27, he and his friend Mr. Ferguson bade adieu andproceeded on their journey. Verona and Brescia were visited and on July29 they came to Milan. The cathedral he finds "a most gorgeous building, far exceeding my conception of it"; and of the beautiful street of theCorso Porta Orientale he says: "It is wider than Broadway and as superioras white marble palaces are to red brick houses. There is an opinionprevalent among some of our good citizens that Broadway is not only thelongest and widest, but the most superbly built, street in the world. Thesooner they are undeceived the better. Broadway is a beautiful street, avery beautiful street, but it is absurd to think that our brick houses oftwenty-five feet front, with plain doors and windows, built by contractin two or three months, and holding together long enough to be let, canrival the spacious stone palaces of hundreds of feet in length, withlofty gates and balconied windows, and their foundations deeply laid andslowly constructed to last for ages. " This was, of course, when Broadwayeven below Fourteenth Street, was a residence street. Attending service in the cathedral on Sunday, and being, as usual, wearied by the monotony and apparent insincerity of it all, he againgives vent to his feelings:-- "How admirably contrived is every part of the structure of this system totake captive the imagination. It is a religion of the imagination; allthe arts of the imagination are pressed into its service; architecture, painting, sculpture, music, have lent all their charm to enchant thesenses and impose on the understanding by substituting for the solemntruths of God's Word, which are addressed to the understanding, thefictions of poetry and the delusions of feeling. The theatre is adaughter of this prolific mother of abominations, and a child worthy ofits dam. The lessons of morality are pretended to be taught by both, andmuch in the same way, by scenic effect and pantomime, and the fruits aremuch the same. "I am sometimes even constrained to doubt the lawfulness of my own artwhen I perceive its prostitution, were I not fully persuaded that the artitself, when used for its legitimate purposes, is one of the greatestcorrecters of grossness and promoters of refinement. I have been led, since I have been in Italy, to think much of the propriety of introducingpictures into churches in aid of devotion. I have certainly everyinducement to decide in favor of the practice did I consult alone theseeming interest of art. That pictures may and do have the effect uponsome rightly to raise the affections, I have no doubt, and, abstractlyconsidered, the practice would not merely be harmless but useful; but, knowing that man is led astray by his imagination more than by any of hisother faculties, I consider it so dangerous to his best interests that Ihad rather sacrifice the interests of the arts, if there is anycollision, than run the risk of endangering those compared with which allothers are not for a moment to be considered. But more of this anothertime. " I have introduced here and at other times Morse's strictures on the RomanCatholic religion, and on other subjects, without comment on my part, even when these strictures seem to verge on illiberality. My desire is topresent a true portrait of the man, with the shadows as well as thelights duly emphasized, fully realizing that what may appear faults tosome, to others will shine out as virtues, and _vice versa_. From Milan, Morse and his companion planned to cross the mountains toGeneva, but, having a day or two to spare, they visited the Lake of Como, which, as was to be expected, satisfied the eye of the artist: "It isshut in by mountains on either side, reminding me of the scenery of LakeGeorge, to which its shores are very similar. In the transparency of thewater, however, Lake George is its superior, and in islands also, but inall things else the Lake of Como must claim the precedence. The palacesand villas and villages which skirt its shores, the mountains, vine-cladand cultivated to their summits, all give a charm for which we look invain as yet in our country. The luxuries of art have combined with thoseof nature in a wonderful degree in this enchanting spot. " On August 4, they left Milan in the diligence for Lago Maggiore, and welearn that: "Our coach is accompanied by _gendarmes_. We enquired thereason of the conductor, who was in the coach with us. He told us thatthe road is an unsafe one; that every day there are instances of robberyperpetrated upon those who travel alone. " [Illustration: HENRY CLAYPainted by Morse. Now in the Metropolitan Museum, New York] It would be pleasant to follow the travellers through beautiful Maggioreand up the rugged passes from Italy to Switzerland and thence to Germanyand Paris, and to see through the unspoiled eyes of an enthusiast thebeauties of that playground of the nations, but it would be but therepetition of an oft-told tale, and I must hasten on, making but a fewextracts from the diary. No thrilling adventures were met with, excepttowards the end, but they enjoyed to the full the grand scenery, thepicturesque costumes of the peasants and the curious customs of thedifferent countries through which they passed. The weather was sometimesfine, but more often overcast or rainy, and we find this note on August15: "How much do a traveller's impressions depend upon the weather, andeven on the time of day in which he sees objects. He sees most of thecountry through which he travels but once, and it is the face which anypoint assumes at that one moment which is brought to his recollection. Ifit is under a gloomy atmosphere, it is not possible that he shouldremember it under other form or aspect. " On Sunday, August 28, he watched the sunrise from the summit of the Rigiunder ideal conditions, and, after describing the scene and saying thatthe rest of the company had gone back to bed, he adds:-- "I had found too little comfort in the wretched thing that had beenprovided for me in the shape of a bed to desire to return thither, and Ialso felt too strongly the emotions which the scene I had just witnessedhad excited, to wish for their dissipation in troubled dreams. "If there is a feeling allied to devotion, it is that which such a sceneof sublimity as this we have just witnessed inspires, and yet thatfeeling is not devotion. I am aware that it is but the emotion of taste. It may exist without a particle of true religious feeling, or it maycoexist and add strength to it. There are thousands, probably, who havehere had their emotion of taste excited without one thought of that Beingby whom these wonders were created, one thought of their relation to Him, of their duty to Him, or of admiration at that unmerited goodness whichallows them to be witnesses of his majesty and power as exhibited inthese wonders of nature. Shut out as I am by circumstances from theprivileges of this day in public worship, I have yet on the top of thismountain a place of private worship such as I have not had for some timepast. I am alone on the mountain with such a scene spread before me thatI must adore, and weak, indeed, must be that faith which, on this day, insuch a scene, does not lift the heart from nature up to nature's God. " On August 30, on the road to Zurich, he makes this rather interestingobservation: "We noticed in a great many instances that wires wereattached to the electric rods and conducted to posts near the houses, when a chime of bells was so arranged as to ring in a highly chargedstate of the atmosphere (Franklin's experiment). " Journeying on past Schaffhausen, where the beautiful falls of the Rhinefilled him with admiration, he and his companion came to Heidelberg andexplored the ruins of the stupendous castle. Here he parted with histravelling companion, Mr. Ferguson, who went on to Frankfort, which cityMorse avoided because the French Government had established a strictquarantine against it on account of some epidemic, the nature of which isnot disclosed in the notes. He was eager to get to Paris now and wishedto avoid all delays. "_September 7. _ I engaged my passage in the diligence for Mannheim, and, for the first time since I have been in Europe, set out alone. . . . I learnfrom the gentleman in the coach that the _cordon sanitaire_ in France isto be enforced with great rigor from the 11th of September; I hope, therefore, to get into France before that date. "_September 10, Saarbruck. _ We last night took our places for Metz, notknowing, however, or even thinking it probable that we should be able toget there. It was hinted by some that a small _douceur_ would enable usto pass the _cordon_, but how to be applied I knew not. "Among our passengers who joined me yesterday was a young German officerwho was the only one who could speak French. With him I contrived toconverse during the day. We had beds in the same room and, as we wereabout retiring, he told me, as I understood him, that by giving the keysof my luggage to the coachman in the morning, the business of passing atthe _douane_ on the frontier would be facilitated. I assented and toldhim, as he understood the language better than I, I left it to him tomake any arrangements and I would share the expense with him. "We were called sometime before day and I left my bed very reluctantly. The morning was cloudy and dark and so far favorable to the enterprise wewere about to undertake, and of the nature and plan of which I had notthe slightest suspicion. We were soon settled in the diligence and leftSaarbruck for the frontier. I composed myself to sleep and had just gotinto a doze when suddenly the coach stopped, and, the door opening, a mantouching me said in a low voice--'_Descendez, monsieur, descendez. _' Iasked the reason but got no answer. My companion and I alighted. Therewas no house near; a bright streak in the east under the heavy blackclouds showed that it was just daybreak, and ahead of us in the road agreat light from the windows of a long building showed us the place ofthe hospital of the _cordon_. "Our guide, for so he proved to be, taking the knapsack of my companionand a basket of mine, in which I carry my portfolio and maps, struck offto the left into a newly ploughed field, while our carriage proceeded ata quick pace onward again. I asked where we were going, but got no otherreply than '_Doucement, monsieur_. ' It then for the first time flashedacross my mind that we had undertaken an unlawful and very hazardousenterprise, that of running by the _cordon_. I had now, however, noalternative; I must follow, for I knew not what other course to take. "After passing through ploughed fields and wet grass and grain for sometime a small by-path crossed from the main road. Our guide beckoned usback, while he went forward each way to see that all was clear, and thenwe crossed and proceeded again over ploughed fields and through theclover. It now began to rain which, disagreeable as it was, I did notregret, all things considered. We soon came to another and widercross-path; we stopped and our guide went forward again in the samecautious manner, stooping down and listening, like an Indian, near theground. He beckoned us to cross over and again we traversed the fields, passing by the base of a small hill, when, as we softly crept up theside, we saw the form of a sentinel against the light of the sky. Ourguide whispered, '_Doucement_' again, and we gently retreated, mycompanion whispering to me, '_Très dangèreux, monsieur, trèsdésagréable_. ' "We took a wider circuit behind some small buildings, and at length cameinto one of the smaller streets in the outskirts of Forbach. Here werewhat appeared to me barracks. The caution was given to walk softly andseparately (we were all, fortunately, in dark clothes), our guide passingfirst round the corners, and, having passed the sentry-boxes, in which, with one exception, we saw no person, and in this instance the sentineldid not hail us (but this was in the city), we came to a house at thewindow of which our guide tapped. A man opened it, and, after someexplanation, ascertaining who we were, opened the door and, striking alight, set some wine and bread before us. "Here we remained for some time to recover breath after our perilousadventure, for, if one of the sentinels had seen us, we should in allprobability have been instantly shot. I knew not that we were nowentirely free from the danger of being arrested, until we heard ourcarriage in the street and had ascertained that all our luggage hadpassed the _douane_ without suspicion. We paid our guide eight francseach, and, taking our seats again in the carriage, drove forward towardMetz. " There were no further adventures, although they trembled with anxietyevery time their passports were called for. Morse regretted having beeninnocently led into this escapade, and would have made a clean breast ofit to the police, as he had not been near Frankfort, but he feared tocompromise his travelling companion who had come from that city. On September 12 they finally arrived in Paris. "How changed are the circumstances of this city since I was last herenearly two years ago. A traitor king has been driven into exile; bloodhas flowed in its streets, the price of its liberty; our friend, thenation's guest, whom I then saw at his house, with apparently littleinfluence and out of favor with the court, the great Lafayette, is nowsecond only to the king in honor and influence as the head of a powerfulparty. These and a thousand other kindred reflections, relating also tomy own circumstances, crowd upon me at the moment of again entering thisfamous city. " CHAPTER XIX SEPTEMBER 18, 1831--SEPTEMBER 21, 1832 Takes rooms with Horatio Greenough. --Political talk with Lafayette. --Riots in Paris. --Letters from Greenough. --Bunker Hill Monument. --Lettersfrom Fenimore Cooper. --Cooper's portrait by Verboeckhoven. --Europeancriticisms. --Reminiscences of R. W. Habersham. --Hints of an electrictelegraph. --Not remembered by Morse. --Early experiments in photography. --Painting of the Louvre. --Cholera in Paris. --Baron von Humboldt. --Morsepresides at 4th of July dinner. --Proposes toast to Lafayette. --Letter toNew York "Observer" on Fenimore Cooper. --Also on pride in Americancitizenship. --Works with Lafayette in behalf of Poles. --Letter fromLafayette. --Morse visits London before sailing for home. --Sits to Lesliefor head of Sterne. The diary was not continued beyond this time and was never seriouslyresumed, so that we must now depend on letters to and from Morse, onfugitive notes, or on the reminiscences of others for a record of hislife. The first letter which I shall introduce was written from Paris to hisbrothers on September 18, 1831:-- "I arrived safely in this city on Monday noon in excellent health andspirits. My last letter to you was from Venice just as I was about toleave it, quite debilitated and unwell from application to my painting, but more, I believe, from the climate, from the perpetual sirocco whichreigned uninterrupted for weeks. I have not time now to give you anaccount of my most interesting journey through Lombardy, Switzerland, part of Germany, and through the eastern part of France. I found, on myarrival here, my friend Mr. Greenough, the sculptor, who had come fromFlorence to model the bust of General Lafayette, and we are in excellent, convenient rooms together, within a few doors of the good General. "I called yesterday on General Lafayette early in the morning. Theservant told me that he was obliged to meet the Polish Committee at anearly hour, and feared he could not see me. I sent in my card, however, and the servant returned immediately saying that the General wished tosee me in his chamber. I followed him through several rooms and enteredthe chamber. The General was in dishabille, but, with his characteristickindness, he ran forward, and, seizing both my hands, expressed withgreat warmth how glad he was to see me safely returned from Italy, andappearing in such good health. He then told me to be seated, and withoutany ceremony began familiarly to question me about my travels, etc. Theconversation, however, soon turned upon the absorbing topic of the day, the fate of Poland, the news of the fall of Warsaw having just beenreceived by telegraphic dispatch. I asked him if there was now any hopefor Poland. He replied: 'Oh, yes! Their cause is not yet desperate; theirarmy is safe; but the conduct of France, and more especially of England, has been most pusillanimous and culpable. Had the English Governmentshown the least disposition to coalesce in vigorous measures with Francefor the assistance of the Poles, they would have achieved theirindependence. ' "The General looks better and younger than ever. There is a healthyfreshness of complexion, like that of a young man in full vigor, and hisframe and step (allowing for his lameness) are as firm and strong as whenhe was our nation's guest. I sat with him ten or fifteen minutes and thentook my leave, for I felt it a sin to consume any more of the time of aman engaged as he is in great plans of benevolence, and whose everymoment is, therefore, invaluable. "The news of the fall of Warsaw is now agitating Paris to a degree notknown since the trial of the ex-ministers. About three o'clock ourservant told us that there was fighting at the Palais Royal, and wedetermined to go as far as we prudently could to see the tumult. Weproceeded down the Rue Saint-Honoré. There was evident agitation in themultitudes that filled the sidewalks--an apprehension of something to bedreaded. There were groups at the corners; the windows were filled, persons looking out as if in expectation of a procession or of some fête. The shops began to be shut, and every now and then the drum was heardbeating to arms. The troops were assembling and bodies of infantry andcavalry were moving through the various streets. During this time nonoise was heard from the people--a mysterious silence was observed, butthey were moved by the slightest breath. If one walked quicker than therest, or suddenly stopped, thither the enquiring look and step weredirected, and a group instantly assembled. At the Palais Royal a largercrowd had collected and a greater body of troops were marching andcountermarching in the Place du Palais Royal. The Palais Royal itself hadthe interior cleared and all the courts. Everything in this place ofperpetual gayety was now desolate; even the fountains had ceased to play, and the seared autumnal leaves of the trees, some already fallen, seemedcongruous with the sentiment of the hour. Most of the shops were alsoshut and the stalls deserted. Still there was no outcry and nodisturbance. "Passing through the Rue Vivienne the same collections of crowds and oftroops were seen. Some were reading a police notice just posted on thewalls, designed to prevent the riotous assembling of the people, andadvising them to retire when the riot act should be read. The notice wasread with murmurs and groans, and I had scarcely ascertained its contentsbefore it was torn from the walls with acclamations. As night approachedwe struck into the Boulevard de la Madeleine. At the corner of thisboulevard and the Rue des Capucines is the hotel of General Sebastiani. We found before the gates a great and increasing crowd. "We took a position on the opposite corner, in such a place as secured asafe retreat in case of need, but allowed us to observe all that passed. Here there was an evident intention in the crowd of doing some violence, nor was it at all doubtful what would be the object of their attack. Theyseemed to wait only for the darkness and for a leader. "The sight of such a crowd is fearful, and its movements, as it wasswayed by the incidents of the moment, were in the highest degreeexciting. A body of troops of the line would pass; the crowd wouldsilently open for their passage and close immediately behind them. A bodyof the National Guard would succeed, and these would be received withloud cheers and gratulations. A soldier on guard would exercise a littlemore severity than was, perhaps, necessary for the occasion; yells, andexecrations, and hisses would be his reward. "Night had now set in; heavy, dark clouds, with a misty rain, had madethe heavens above more dark and gloomy. A man rushed forward toward thegate, hurling his hat in the air, and followed by the crowd, whichsuddenly formed into long lines behind him. I now looked for somethingserious. A body of troops was in line before the gate. At this moment twopolice officers, on horseback, in citizens' dress, but with a tricoloredbelt around their bodies, rode through the crowd and up to the gate, andin a moment after I perceived the multitude from one of the streetsrushing in wild confusion into the boulevard, and the current of thepeople setting back in all directions. "While wondering at the cause of this sudden movement, I heard thetrampling of horses, and a large band of carabiniers, with their brighthelmets glittering in the light of the lamps, dashed down the street anddrew up before the gate. The police officers put themselves at their headand harangued the people. The address was received with groans. The_carabiniers_ drew their swords, orders were given for the charge, and inan instant they dashed down the street, the people dispersing like themist before the wind. The charge was made down the opposite sidewalk fromthat where we had placed ourselves, so I kept my station, and, when theyreturned up the middle of the street to charge on the other side, Icrossed over behind them and avoided them. " I have given enough of this letter to show that Morse was stillsurrounded by dangers of various sorts, and it is also a good pen-pictureof the irresponsible actions of a cowardly mob, especially of a Parisianmob. The letters which passed between Morse and his friends, James FenimoreCooper, the novelist, and Horatio Greenough, the sculptor, are mostinteresting, and would of themselves fill a volume. Both Cooper andGreenough wrote fluently and entertainingly, and I shall select a fewcharacteristic sentences from the letters of each, resisting the strongtemptation to include the whole correspondence. Greenough returned to Florence after having roomed with Morse in Paris, and wrote as follows from there:-- As for the commission from Government, I don't speak of it yet. Afterabout a fortnight I shall be calm, I think. Morse, I have made up my mindon one score, namely, that this order shall not be fruitless to thegreater men who are now in our rear. They are sucking now and rocking incradles, but I can hear the pung! pung! puffetty! of their hammers, and Iam prophetic, too. We'll see if Yankee land can't muster some ten or adozen of them in the course of as many years. . . You were right, I had heard of the resolution submitted to Congress, etc. Mr. Cooper wrote me about it. I have not much faith in Congress, however. I will confess that, when the spectre Debt has leaned over my pillow oflate, and, smiling ghastlily, has asked if she and I were not intended ascompanions through life, I snap my fingers at her and tell her thatBrother Jonathan talks of adopting me, and that he won't have her of hishousehold. "Go to London, you hag, " says I, "where they say you'rehandsome and wholesome; don't grind your long teeth at me, or I'll readthe Declaration of Independence to ye. " So you see I make uncertain hopesfight certain fears, and borrow from the generous, good-natured Futurethe motives for content which are denied me by the stinted Present. . . What shall I say in answer to your remarks on my opinions? Shall I go allover the ground again? It were useless. That my heart is wrong in athousand ways I daily feel, but 't is my stubborn head which refuses tocomprehend the creation as you comprehend it. That we should be gratefulfor all we have, I feel--for all we have is given us; nor do I think wehave little. For my part I would be blest in mere existence were I notgoaded by a wish to make my one talent two; and we have Scripture for therectitude of such a wish. I don't think the stubborn resistance of thetide of ill-fortune can be called rebellion against Providence. "Helpyourself and Heaven will help you, " says the proverb. . . . There hangs before me a print of the Bunker Hill Monument. Pray be judgebetween me and the building committee of that monument. There you observethat my model was founded solidly, and on each of its square plinths weretrophies, or groups, or cannon, as might be thought fit. (No. I. ) Well, they have taken away the foundation, made the shaft start sheerfrom the dirt like a spear of asparagus, and, instead of an acute angle, by which I hoped to show the work was done and lead off the eye, theyhave made an obtuse one, producing the broken-chimney-like effect whichyour eye will not fail to condemn in No. II. Then they have enclosedtheirs with a light, elegant fence, _à la Parigina_, as though theaustere forms of Egypt were compatible with the decorative flummery ofthe boulevards. Let 'em go for dunderheads as they are. . . . I congratulate you on your sound conscience with regard to the affairthat you wot of. As for your remaining free, that's all very well tothink during the interregnum, but a man without a true love is a shipwithout ballast, a one-tined fork, half a pair of scissors, an utterflash in the pan. . . . So you are going home, my dear Morse, and God knowsif ever I shall see you again. Pardon, I pray you, anything of levitywhich you may have been offended at in me. Believe me it arose from my sorarely finding one to whom I could be natural and give loose without fearof good faith or good nature ever failing. Wherever I am your approbationwill be dearer to me than the hurrah of a world. I shall write toglorious Fenimore in a few days. My love to Allston and Dana. God blessyou, H. GREENOUGH. These extracts are from different letters, but they show, I think, thecharming character of the man and reflect his admiration for Morse. Fromthe letters of James Fenimore Cooper, written while they were both inEurope, I select the two following as characteristic: July 31, 1832. My dear Morse, --Here we are at Spa--the famous hard-drinking, dissipated, gambling, intriguing Spa--where so much folly has been committed, so manyfortunes squandered, and so many women ruined! How are the mighty fallen!We have just returned from a ramble in the environs, among desertedreception-houses and along silent roads. The country is not unlikeBallston, though less wooded, more cultivated, and perhaps a little morevaried. . . . I have had a great compliment paid me, Master Samuel, and, asit is nearly the only compliment I have received in travelling overEurope, I am the more proud of it. Here are the facts. You must know there is a great painter in Brussels of the name ofVerboeckhoven (which, translated into the vernacular, means a _bull and abook baked in an oven!_), who is another Paul Potter. He outdoes allother men in drawing cattle, etc. , with a suitable landscape. In his wayhe is truly admirable. Well, sir, this artist did me the favor to call atBrussels with the request that I would let him sketch my face. He cameafter the horses were ordered, and, knowing the difficulty of the task, Ithanked him, but was compelled to refuse. On our arrival at Liège we weretold that a messenger from the Governor had been to enquire for us, and Ibegan to bethink me of my sins. There was no great cause for fear, however, for it proved that Mr. Bull-and-book-baked had placed himself inthe diligence, come down to Liège (sixty-three miles), and got theGovernor to give him notice, by means of my passport, when we came. Ofcourse I sat. I cannot say the likeness is good, but it has a vastly life-like look andis like all the other pictures you have seen of my chameleon face. Letthat be as it will, the compliment is none the less, and, provided theartist does not mean to serve me up as a specimen of American wildbeasts, I shall thank him for it. To be followed twelve posts by afirst-rate artist, who is in favor with the King, is so unusual that Iwas curious to know how far our minds were in unison, and so I probed hima little. I found him well skilled in his art, of course, but ignorant onmost subjects. As respects our general views of men and things there wasscarcely a point in common, for he has few salient qualities, though heis liberal; but his gusto for natural subjects is strong, and hisfavorite among all my books is "The Prairie, " which, you know, is filledwith wild beasts. Here the secret was out. That picture of animal naturehad so caught his fancy that he followed me sixty miles to paint asketch. While this letter of Cooper's was written in lighter vein, the followingextracts from one written on August 19 show another side of hischaracter:-- The criticisms of which you speak give me no concern. . . . The"Heidenmauer" is not equal to the "Bravo, " but it is a good book andbetter than two thirds of Scott's. They may say it is like his if theyplease; they have said so of every book I have written, even the "Pilot. "But the "Heidenmauer" is like and was intended to be like, in order toshow how differently a democrat and an aristocrat saw the same thing. Asfor French criticisms they have never been able to exalt me in my ownopinion nor to stir my bile, for they are written with such evidentignorance (I mean of English books) as to be beneath notice. What thedeuce do I care whether my books are on their shelves or not? What did Iever get from France or Continental Europe? Neither personal favors normoney. But this they cannot understand, for so conceited is a Frenchmanthat many of them think that I came to Paris to be paid. Now I never gotthe difference in the boiling of the pot between New York and Paris in mylife. The "Journal des Débats" was snappish with "Water Witch, " merve [?]I believe with "Bravo, " and let it bark at "Heidenmauer" and be hanged. No, no more. The humiliation comes from home. It is biting to find thataccident has given me a country which has not manliness and pride tomaintain its own opinions, while it is overflowing with conceit. Butnever mind all this. See that you do not decamp before my departure andI'll promise not to throw myself into the Rhine. . . . I hope the Fourth of July is not breaking out in Habersham's noddle, forI can tell him that was the place most affected during the dinner. Adieu, Yours as ever, J. FENIMORE COOPER. The Mr. Habersham here jokingly referred to was R. W. Habersham, ofAugusta, Georgia, who in the year 1831 was an art student in the_atelier_ of Baron Gros, and between whom and Morse a friendship sprangup. They roomed together at a time when the cholera was raging in Paris, but, owing to Mr. Habersham's wise insistence that all the occupants ofthe house should take a teaspoonful of charcoal every morning, allescaped the disease. Mr. Habersham in after years wrote and sent to Morse some of hisreminiscences of that period, and from these I shall quote the followingas being of more than ordinary interest:-- "The Louvre was always closed on Monday to clean up the gallery after thepopular exhibition of the paintings on Sunday, so that Monday was our dayfor visits, excursions, etc. On one occasion I was left alone, and two orthree times during the week he was absent. This was unusual, but I askedno questions and made no remarks. But on Saturday evening, sitting by ourevening lamp, he seemed lost in thought, till suddenly he remarked: 'Themails in our country are too slow; this French telegraph is better, andwould do even better in our clear atmosphere than here, where half thetime fogs obscure the skies. But this will not be fast enough--_thelightning would serve us better_. ' "These may not be the exact words, but they convey the sense, and I, laughing, said: 'Aha! I see what you have been after, you have beenexamining the French system of telegraphing. ' He admitted that he hadtaken advantage of the kind offer of one in authority to do so. . . . "There was, on one occasion, another reference made to the conveyance ofsound under water, and to the length of time taken to communicate theletting in of the water into the Erie Canal by cannon shots to New York, and other means, during which the suggestion of using keys and wires, like the piano, was rejected as requiring too many wires, if other thingswere available. I recollect also that in our frequent visits to Mr. J. Fenimore Cooper's, in the Rue St. Dominique, these subjects, sointeresting to Americans, were often introduced, and that Morse seemed toharp on them, constantly referring to Franklin and Lord Bacon. Now I, while recognizing the intellectual grandeur of both these men, hadcontracted a small opinion of their moral strength; but Morse woulduphold and excuse, or rather deny, the faults attributed. Lord Bacon, especially, he held to have _sacrificed himself to serve the queen in heraberrations_; while of Franklin, 'the Great American, ' recognized by theFrench, he was particularly proud. " Cooper also remembered some such hints of a telegraph made by Morse atthat time, for in "The Sea Lions, "[1] on page 161, he says:-- [Footnote 1: The Riverside Press, 1870. ] "We pretend to no knowledge on the subject of the dates of discoveries inthe arts and sciences, but well do we remember the earnestness, andsingle-minded devotion to a laudable purpose, with which our worthyfriend first communicated to us his ideas on the subject of using theelectric spark by way of a telegraph. It was in Paris and during thewinter of 1831-82 and the succeeding spring, and we have a satisfactionin recording this date that others may prove better claims if they can. " Curiously enough, Morse himself could, in after years, never rememberhaving suggested at that time the possibility of using electricity toconvey intelligence. He always insisted that the idea first came to him afew months later on his return voyage to America, and in 1849 he wrote toMr. Cooper saying that he must be mistaken, to which the latter replied, under date of May 18:-- "For the time I still stick to Paris, so does my wife, so does my eldestdaughter. You did no more than to throw out the general idea, but I feelquite confident this occurred in Paris. I confess I thought the notionevidently chimerical, and as such spoke of it in my family. I always setyou down as a sober-minded, common-sense sort of a fellow, and thought ita high flight for a painter to make to go off on the wings of thelightning. We may be mistaken, but you will remember that the priority ofthe invention was a question early started, and my impressions were thesame much nearer to the time than it is to-day. " That the recollections of his friends were probably clearer than his ownon this point is admitted by Morse in the following letter:-- IRVING HOUSE, NEW YORK, September 5, 1849. My Dear Sir, --I was agreeably surprised this morning in conversing withProfessor Renwick to find that he corroborates the fact you havementioned in your "Sea Lions" respecting the earlier conception of mytelegraph by me, than the date I had given, and which goes only so farback in my own recollection as 1832. Professor Renwick insists thatimmediately after Professor Dana's lectures at the New York Athenaeum, Iconsulted with him on the subject of the velocity of electricity and insuch a way as to indicate to him that I was contriving an electrictelegraph. The consultation I remember, but I did not recollect the time. He will depose that it was before I went to Europe, after those lectures;now I went in 1829; this makes it almost certain that the impression youand Mrs. Cooper and your daughter had that I conversed with you on thesubject in 1831 after my return from Italy is correct. If you are still persuaded that this is so, your deposition before theCommission in this city to that fact will render me an incalculableservice. I will cheerfully defray your expenses to and from the city ifyou will meet me here this week or beginning of next. In haste, but with best respects to Mrs. Cooper and family, I am, dear sir, as ever your friend and servant, SAML. F. B. MORSE. J. FENIMORE COOPER, ESQ. All this is interesting, but, of course, has no direct bearing on theactual date of invention. It is more than probable that Morse did, whilehe was studying the French semaphores, and at an even earlier date, dreamvaguely of the possibility of using electricity for conveyingintelligence, and that he gave utterance among his intimates to thesedreams; but the practical means of so utilizing this mysterious agent didnot take shape in his mind until 1832. An inchoate vision of thepossibility of using electricity is far different from an actual planeventually elaborated into a commercial success. Another extract from Mr. Habersham's reminiscences, on a totallydifferent subject, will be found interesting: "I have forgot to mentionthat one day, while in the Rue Surenne, I was studying from my own facereflected in a glass, as is often done by young artists, when I remarkedhow grand it would be if we could invent a method of fixing the image onthe mirror. Professor Morse replied that he had thought of it while apupil at Yale, and that Professor Silliman (I think) and himself hadtried it with a wash of nitrate of silver on a piece of paper, but that, unfortunately, it made the lights _dark_ and the shadows _light_, butthat if they could be reversed, we should have a facsimile like India-inkdrawings. Had they thought of using glass, as is now done, thedaguerreotype would have been perhaps anticipated--certainly thephotograph. " This is particularly interesting because, as I shall note later on, Morsewas one of the pioneers in experimenting with the daguerreotype inAmerica. Among the paintings which Morse executed while he was in Paris was a veryambitious one. This was an interior of one of the galleries in the Louvrewith carefully executed miniature copies of some of the most celebratedcanvases. Writing of it, and of the dreadful epidemic of cholera, to hisbrothers on May 6, 1832, he says:-- "My anxiety to finish my picture and to return drives me, I fear, to toogreat application and too little exercise, and my health has inconsequence been so deranged that I have been prevented from the speedycompletion of my picture. From nine o'clock until four daily I paintuninterruptedly at the Louvre, and, with the closest application, I shallnot be able to finish it before the close of the gallery on the 10th ofAugust. The time each morning before going to the gallery is whollyemployed in preparation for the day, and, after the gallery closes atfour, dinner and exercise are necessary, so that I have no time foranything else. "The cholera is raging here, and I can compare the state of mind in eachman of us only to that of soldiers in the heat of battle; all the usualsecurities of life seem to be gone. Apprehension and anxiety make thestoutest hearts quail. Any one feels, when he lays himself down at night, that he will in all probability be attacked before daybreak; for thedisease is a pestilence that walketh in darkness, and seizes the greatestnumber of its victims at the most helpless hour of the night. Fifteenhundred were seized in a day, and fifteen thousand at least have alreadyperished, although the official accounts will not give so many. "_May 14. _ My picture makes progress and I am sanguine of success ifnothing interferes to prevent its completion. I shall take no morecommissions here and shall only complete my large picture and a fewunfinished works. "General Lafayette told me a few weeks ago, when I was returning with himin his carriage, that the financial condition of the United States was asubject of great importance, and he wished that I would write you andothers, who were known as statistical men, and get your views on thesubject. There never was a better time for demonstrating the principlesof our free institutions by showing a result favorable to our country. " Among the men of note whom Morse met while he was in Paris was BaronAlexander von Humboldt, the famous traveller and naturalist, who was muchattracted towards the artist, and often went to the Louvre to watch himwhile he was at work, or to wander through the galleries with him, deepin conversation. He was afterwards one of the first to congratulate Morseon the successful exhibition of his telegraph before the French Academyof Science. As we have already seen, Morse was intensely patriotic. He followed withkeen interest the developments in our national progress as they unrolledthemselves before his eyes, and when the occasion offered he took activepart in furthering what he considered the right and in vigorouslydenouncing the wrong. He was never blind to our national or partyfailings, but held the mirror up before his countrymen's eyes with steadyhand, and yet he was prouder of being an American than of anything else, and, as I have had occasion to remark before, his ruling passion was anintense desire to accomplish some great good for his beloved country, toraise her in the estimation of the rest of the world. On the 4th of July, 1832, he was called on to preside at the banquetgiven by the Americans resident in Paris, with Mr. Cooper asvice-president. General Lafayette was the guest of honor, and theAmerican Minister Hon. William C. Rives, G. W. Haven, and many others werepresent. Morse, in proposing the toast to General Lafayette, spoke as follows:-- "I cannot propose the next toast, gentlemen, so intimately connected withthe last, without adverting to the distinguished honor and pleasure wethis day enjoy above the thousands, and I may say hundreds of thousands, of our countrymen who are at this moment celebrating this great nationalfestival--the honor and pleasure of having at our board our venerableguest on my right hand, the hero whom two worlds claim as their own. Yes, gentlemen, he belongs to America as well as to Europe. He is our fellowcitizen, and the universal voice of our country would cry out against usdid we not manifest our nation's interest in his person and character. "With the mazes of European politics we have nothing to do; to changingschemes of good or bad government we cannot make ourselves a party; withthe success or defeat of this or that faction we can have no sympathy;but with the great principles of rational liberty, of civil and religiousliberty, those principles for which our guest fought by the side of ourfathers, and which he has steadily maintained for a long life, 'throughgood report and evil report, ' we do sympathize. We should not beAmericans if we did not sympathize with them, nor can we compromise oneof these principles and preserve our self-respect as loyal Americancitizens. They are the principles of order and good government, ofobedience to law; the principles which, under Providence, have made ourcountry unparalleled in prosperity; principles which rest, not invisionary theory, but are made palpable by the sure test of experimentand time. "But, gentlemen, we honor our guest as the stanch, undeviating defenderof these principles, of our principles, of American principles. Has heever deserted them? Has he ever been known to waver? Gentlemen, there aresome men, some, too, who would wish to direct public opinion, who arelike the buoys upon tide-water. They float up and down as the currentsets this way or that. If you ask at an emergency where they are, wecannot tell you; we must first consult the almanac; we must know thequarter of the moon, the way of the wind, the time of the tide, and thenwe may guess where you will find them. "But, gentlemen, our guest is not of this fickle class. He is a toweramid the waters, his foundation is upon a rock, he moves not with the ebband flow of the stream. The storm may gather, the waters may rise andeven dash above his head, or they may subside at his feet, still hestands unmoved. We know his site and his bearings, and with the fullestconfidence we point to where he stood six-and-fifty years ago. He standsthere now. The winds have swept by him, the waves have dashed around him, the snows of winter have lighted upon him, but still he is there. "I ask you, therefore, gentlemen, to drink with me in honor of GeneralLafayette. " Portions of many of Morse's letters to his brothers were published in theNew York "Observer, " owned and edited by them. Part of the followingletter was so published, I believe, but, at Mr. Cooper's request, thesentences referring to his personal sentiments were omitted. There can beno harm, however, in giving them publicity at this late day. The letter was written on July 18, 1832, and begins by gently chiding hisbrothers for not having written to him for nearly four months, and heconcludes this part by saying, "But what is past can't be helped. I amglad, exceedingly glad, to hear of your prosperity and hope it may becontinued to you. " And then he says:-- "I am diligently occupied every moment of my time at the Louvre finishingthe great labor which I have there undertaken. I say 'finishing, ' I meanthat part of it which can only be completed there, namely, the copies ofthe pictures. All the rest I hope to do at home in New York, such as theframes of the pictures, the figures, etc. It is a great labor, but itwill be a splendid and valuable work. It excites a great deal ofattention from strangers and the French artists. I have many complimentsupon it, and I am sure it is the most correct one of its kind everpainted, for every one says I have caught the style of each of themasters. Cooper is delighted with it and I think he will own it. He iswith me two or three hours at the gallery (the hours of his relaxation)every day as regularly as the day comes. I spend almost every evening athis house in his fine family. "Cooper is very little understood, I believe, by our good people. He hasa bold, original, independent mind, thoroughly American. He loves hiscountry and her principles most ardently; he knows the hollowness of allthe despotic systems of Europe, and especially is he thoroughlyconversant with the heartless, false, selfish system of Great Britain;the perfect antipodes of our own. He fearlessly supports Americanprinciples in the face of all Europe, and braves the obloquy andintrigues against him of all the European powers. I say all the Europeanpowers, for Cooper is more read, and, therefore, more feared, than anyAmerican, --yes, more than any European with the exception, possibly, ofScott. His works are translated into all the languages of the Continent;editions of every work he publishes are printed in, I think, more thanthirty different cities, and all this without any pains on his part. Hedeals, I believe, with only one publisher in Paris and one in London. Henever asks what effect any of his sentiments will have upon the sale ofhis works; the only question he asks is--'Are they just and true?' "I know of no man, short of a true Christian, who is so truly guided byhigh principles as Cooper. He is not a religious man (I wish from myheart he was), yet he is theoretically orthodox, a great respecter ofreligion and religious men, a man of unblemished moral character. He iscourted by the greatest and the most aristocratic, yet he nevercompromises the dignity of an American citizen, which he contends is thehighest distinction a man can have in Europe, and there is not a doubtbut he commands the respect of the exclusives here in a tenfold degreemore than those who truckle and cringe to European opinions and customs. They love an independent man and know enough of their own heartlesssystem to respect a real freeman. I admire exceedingly his proudassertion of the rank of an American (I speak from a political point ofview), for I know no reason why an American should not take rank, andassert it, too, above any of the artificial distinctions that Europe hasmade. We have no aristocratic grades, no titles of nobility, no ribbons, and garters, and crosses, and other gewgaws that please the great babiesof Europe; are we, therefore, to take rank below or above them? I sayabove them, and I hope that every American who comes abroad will feelthat he is bound, for his country's sake, to take that stand. I don'tmean ostentatiously, or offensively, or obtrusively, but he ought to havean American self-respect. "There can be no _condescension_ to an American. An American gentleman isequal to any title or rank in Europe, kings and emperors not excepted. Why is he not? By what law are we bound to consider ourselves inferiorbecause we have stamped _folly_ upon the artificial and unjust grades ofEuropean systems, upon these antiquated remnants of feudal barbarism? "Cooper sees and feels the absurdity of these distinctions, and heasserts his American rank and maintains it, too, I believe, from a purepatriotism. Such a man deserves the support and respect of hiscountrymen, and I have no doubt he has them. . . . It is high time we shouldassume a more American tone while Europe is leaving no stone unturned tovilify and traduce us, because the rotten despotisms of Europe fear ourexample and hate us. You are not aware, perhaps, that the _Trollope_system is political altogether. You think that, because we know thegrossness of her libels and despise her abuse, England and Europe do thesame. You are mistaken; they wish to know no good of us. Mrs. Trollope'sbook is more popular in England (and that, too, among a class who youfain would think know better) than any book of travels ever published inAmerica. [1] It is also translating into French, and will be puffed andextolled by France, who is just entering upon the system of vilificationof America and her institutions, that England has been pursuing eversince we as colonies resisted her oppressive measures. Tory England, aristocratic England, is the same now towards us as she was then, andTory France, aristocratic France, follows in her steps. We may deceiveourselves on this point by knowing the kindly feeling manifested byreligious and benevolent men towards each other in both countries, but weshall be wanting in our usual Yankee penetration if the good feeling ofthese excellent and pious men shall lead us to think that theirgovernments, or even the mass of their population, are actuated by thesame kindly regard. No, they hate us, cordially hate us. We should notdisguise the truth, and I will venture to say that no genuine American, one who loves his country and her distinctive principles, can live abroadin any of the countries of Europe, and not be thoroughly convinced thatEurope, as it is, and America, as it is, can have no feeling ofcordiality for each other. [Footnote 1: This refers to Mrs. Frances Trollope's book _DomesticManners of the Americans_, which created quite a stir in its day. ] "America is the stronghold of the popular principle, Europe of thedespotic. These cannot unite; there can be, at present, no sympathy. . . . We need not quarrel with Europe, but we must keep ourselves aloof andsuspect all her manoeuvres. She has no good will towards us and we mustnot be duped by her soft speeches and fair words, on the one side, nor byher contemptible detraction on the other. " Morse found time, in spite of his absorption in his artistic work, tointerest himself and others in behalf of the Poles who had unsuccessfullystruggled to maintain their independence as a nation. He was an activemember of a committee organized to extend help to them, and thiscommittee was instrumental in obtaining the release from imprisonment inBerlin of Dr. S. G. Howe, who "had been entrusted with twenty thousandfrancs for the relief of the distressed Poles. " In this work he wasclosely associated with General Lafayette, already his friend, and theirhigh regard for each other was further strengthened and resulted in aninterchange of many letters. Some of these were given away by Morse tofriends desirous of possessing autographs of the illustrious Lafayette;others are still among his papers, and some of these I shall introduce intheir proper chronological order. The following one was written onSeptember 27, 1832, from La Grange:-- My Dear Sir, --I am sorry to see you will not take Paris and La Grange inyour way to Havre, unless you were to wait for the packet of the 10th incompany with General Cadwalader, Commodore Biddle, and those young, amiable Philadelphians who contemplate sailing on that day. But if youpersist to go by the next packet, I beg you here to receive my bestwishes and those of my family for your happy voyage. Upon you, my dear sir, I much depend to give our friends in the UnitedStates a proper explanation of the state of things in Europe. You havebeen very attentive to what has passed since the Revolution of 1830. Muchhas been obtained here and in other parts of Europe in this whirlwind ofa week. Further consequences here and in other countries--Great Britainand Ireland included--will be the certain result, though they have beenmauled and betrayed where they ought to have received encouragement. Butit will not be so short and so cheap as we had a right to anticipate itmight be. I think it useful, on both sides of the water, to dispel thecloud which ignorance or design may throw over the real state of Europeanand French politics. In the mean while I believe it to be the duty of every American returnedhome to let his fellow citizens know what wretched handle is made of theviolent collisions, threats of a separation, and reciprocal abuse, toinjure the character and question the stability of republicaninstitutions. I too much depend upon the patriotism and good sense of theseveral parties in the United States to be afraid that those dissensionsmay terminate in a final dissolution of the Union; and should such anevent be destined in future to take place, deprecated as it has been bythe best wishes of the departed founders of the Revolution, --Washingtonat their head, --it ought at least, in charity, not to take place beforethe not remote period when every one of those who have fought and bled inthe cause shall have joined their contemporaries. What is to be said of Poland and the situation of her heroic, unhappysons, you well know, having been a constant and zealous member of ourcommittee. You know what sort of mental perturbation, among the ignorant part ofevery European nation, has accompanied the visit of the cholera inRussia, Germany, Hungary, and several parts of Great Britain and France--suspicions of poison, prejudices against the politicians, and so forth. Iwould tike to know whether the population of the United States has beenquite free of these aberrations, as it would be an additional argument inbehalf of republican institutions and superior civilization resultingfrom them. Most truly and affectionately, Your friend, LAFAYETTE As we see from the beginning of this letter, Morse had now determined toreturn home. He had executed all the commissions for copies which hadbeen given to him, and his ambitious painting of the interior of theLouvre was so far finished that he could complete it at home. He sailedfrom Havre on the 1st of October in the packetship Sully. The name ofthis ship has now become historic, and a chance conversation in mid-oceanwas destined to mark an epoch in human evolution. Before sailing, however, he made a flying trip to England, and he writes to his brothersfrom London on September 21:-- "Here I am once more in England and on the wing _home_. I shall probablysail from Havre in the packet of October 1 (the Sully), and I shall leaveLondon for Southampton and Havre on the 26th inst. , to be prepared forsailing. "I am visiting old friends and renewing old associations in London. Twenty years make a vast difference as well in the aspect of this greatcity as in the faces of old acquaintances. London may be said literallyto have gone into the country. Where I once was accustomed to walk in thefields, so far out of town as even to shoot at a target against the treeswith impunity, now there are spacious streets and splendid houses andgardens. "I spend a good deal of my spare time with Leslie. He is the sameamiable, intelligent, unassuming gentleman that I left in 1815. He ispainting a little picture--'Sterne recovering his Manuscripts from theCurls of his Hostess at Lyons. ' I have been sitting to him for the headof Sterne, whom he thinks I resemble very strongly. At any rate, he hasmade no alteration in the character of the face from the one he had drawnfrom Sterne's portrait, and has simply attended to the expression. "When I left Paris I was feeble in health, so much so that I was fearfulof the effects of the journey to London, especially as I passed throughvillages suffering severely from the cholera. But I proceeded moderately, lodged the first night at Boulogne-sur-Mer, crossed to Dover in a severesouthwest gale, and passed the next night at Canterbury, and the next daycame to London. I think the ride did me good, and I have been exercisinga great deal, riding and walking, since, and my general health iscertainly improving. I am in hopes that the voyage will completely set meup again. " CHAPTER XX Morse's life almost equally divided into two periods, artistic andscientific. --Estimate of his artistic ability by Daniel Huntington. --Alsoby Samuel Isham. --His character as revealed by his letters, notes, etc. --End of Volume I. Morse's long life (he was eighty-one when he died) was almost exactlydivided, by the nature of his occupations, into two equal periods. Duringthe first, up to his forty-first year, he was wholly the artist, enthusiastic, filled with a laudable ambition to excel, not only forpersonal reasons, but, as appears from his correspondence, largely frompatriotic motives, from a wish to rescue his country from the stigma ofpure commercialism which it had incurred in the eyes of the rest of theworld. It is true that his active brain and warm heart spurred him on tointerest himself in many other things, in inventions of more or lessutility, in religion, politics, and humanitarian projects; but next tohis sincere religious faith, his art held chiefest sway, and everythingelse was made subservient to that. During the latter half of his life, however, a new goddess was enshrinedin his heart, a goddess whose cult entailed even greater self-sacrifice;keener suffering, both mental and physical; more humiliation to a proudand sensitive soul, shrinking alike from the jeers of the incredulous andthe libels and plots of the envious and the unscrupulous. While he plied his brush for many years after the conception of hisepoch-making invention, it was with an ever lessening enthusiasm, with adivided interest. Art no longer reigned supreme; Invention shared thethrone with her and eventually dispossessed her. It seems, therefore, fitting that, in closing the chronicle of Morse the artist, his rank inthe annals of American art should be estimated as viewed by acontemporary and by the more impartial historian of the present day. From a long article prepared by the late Daniel Huntington for Mr. Prime, I shall select the following passages:-- "My acquaintance with Professor Morse began in the spring of 1835, when Iwas placed under his care by my father as a pupil. He then lived inGreenwich Lane (now Greenwich Avenue), and several young men werestudying art under his instruction. . . . He gave a short time every day toeach pupil, carefully pointing out our errors and explaining theprinciples of art. After drawing for some time from casts with thecrayon, he allowed us to begin the use of the brush, and we practisedpainting our studies from the casts, using black, white, and raw umber. "I believe this method was of great use in enabling us early to acquire agood habit of painting. I only regret that he did not insist on oursticking to this kind of study a longer time and drill us more severelyin it; but he indulged our hankering for color too soon, and, when oncewe had tasted the luxury of a full palette of colors, it was a drybusiness to go back to plain black and white. "In the autumn of that year, 1835, he removed to spacious rooms in theNew York University on Washington Square. In the large studio in thenorth wing he painted several fine portraits, among them the beautifulfull-length of his daughter, Mrs. Lind. He also lectured before thestudents and a general audience, illustrating his subject by painteddiagrams. . . . "Professor Morse's love of scientific experiments was shown in his artistlife. He formed theories of color, tried experiments with variousvehicles, oils, varnishes, and pigments. His studio was a kind oflaboratory. A beautiful picture of his wife and two children was painted, he told me, with colors ground in milk, and the effect was juicy, creamy, and pearly to a degree. Another picture was commenced with colors mixedwith beer; afterwards solidly impasted and glazed with rich, transparenttints in varnish. His theory of color is fully explained in the accountof his life in Dunlap's 'Arts of Design. ' He proved its truth by boxesand balls of various colors. He had an honest, solid, vigorous _impasto_, which he strongly insisted on in his instructions--a method which waslike the great masters of the Venetian school. This method was modifiedin his practice by his studies under West in England, and by his intimacywith Allston, for whose genius he had a great reverence, and by whose wayof painting he was strongly influenced. "He was a lover of simple, unaffected truth, and this trait is shown inhis works as an artist. He had a passion for color, and rich, harmonioustints run through his pictures, which are glowing and mellow, and yetpearly and delicate. "He had a true painter's eye, but he was hindered from reaching the famehis genius promised as a painter by various distractions, such as theearly battles of the Academy of Design in its struggles for life, domestic afflictions, and, more than all, the engrossing cares of hisinvention. [Illustration: SUSAN MORSEEldest daughter of the artist. ] "The 'Hercules, ' with its colossal proportions and daring attitude, isevidence of the zeal and courage of his early studies. . . . It is worthy ofbeing carefully preserved in a public gallery, not only as an instance ofsuccessful study in a young artist (Morse was in his twenty-first year), but as possessing high artistic merit, and a force and richness whichplainly show that, if his energies had not been diverted, he might haveachieved a name in art equal to the greatest of his contemporaries. . . . "Professor Morse's world-wide fame rests, of course, on his invention ofthe electric telegraph; but it should be remembered that the qualities ofmind which led to it were developed in the progress of his art studies, and if his paintings, in the various fields of history, portrait, andlandscape, could be brought together, it would be found that he deservedan honored place among the foremost American artists. " This was an estimate of Morse's ability as a painter by a man of his ownday, a friend and pupil. As this would, naturally, be somewhat biased, itwill be more to the point to see what a competent critic of the presentday has to say. Mr. Samuel Isham, in his authoritative "History of American Painting, "published in 1910, after giving a brief biographical sketch of Morse andtelling why he came to abandon the brush, thus sums up:-- "It was a serious loss, for Morse, without being a genius, was yet, perhaps, better calculated than another to give in pictures the spirit ofthe difficult times from 1830 to 1860. He was a man sound in mind andbody, well born, well educated, and both by birth and education insympathy with his time. He had been abroad, had seen good work, andreceived sound training. His ideals were not too far ahead of his public. Working as he did under widely varying conditions, his paintings aredissimilar, not only in merit but in method of execution; even hisportraits vary from thin, free handling to solid _impasto_. Yet in thebest of them there is a real painter's feeling for his material; theheads have a soundness of construction and a freshness in the carnationsthat recall Raeburn rather than West; the poses are graceful orinteresting, the costumes are skilfully arranged, and in addition heunderstands perfectly the character of his sitters, the men and women ofthe transition period, shrewd, capable, but rather commonplace, withoutthe ponderous dignity of Copley's subjects or the cosmopolitan graces ofa later day. "The struggles incident to the invention and development of telegraphyturned Morse from the practice of art, but up to the end of his life hewas interested in it and aggressive in any scheme for its advancement. " I think that from the letters, notes, etc. , which I have in the precedingpages brought together, a clear conception of Morse's character can beformed. The dominant note was an almost childlike religious faith; atriumphant trust in the goodness of God even when his hand was wieldingthe rod; a sincere belief in the literal truth of the Bible, which mayseem strange to us of the twentieth century; a conviction that he wasdestined in some way to accomplish a great good for his fellow men. Next to love of God came love of country. He was patriotic in the bestsense of the word. While abroad he stoutly upheld the honor of his nativeland, and at home he threw himself with vigor into the politicaldiscussions of the day, fighting stoutly for what he considered theright. While sometimes, in the light of future events, he seems to haveerred in allowing his religious beliefs to tinge too much his politicalviews, he was always perfectly sincere and never permitted expediency tobrush aside conviction. We have seen that wherever he went he had the faculty of inspiringrespect and affection, and that an ever widening circle of friendsadmitted him to their intimacy, sought his advice, and confided in himwith the perfect assurance of his ready sympathy. A favorite Bible quotation of his was "Woe unto you when all men shallspeak well of you. " He deeply deplored the necessity of making enemies, but he early in his career became convinced that no man could accomplishanything of value in this world without running counter either to theopinions of honest men, who were as sincere as he, or to the self-seekingof the dishonest and the unscrupulous. Up to this time he had had mainlyto deal with the former class, as in his successful efforts to establishthe National Academy of Design on a firm footing; but in the future hewas destined to make many and bitter enemies of both classes. In thecontroversies which ensued he always strove to be courteous and just, even when vigorously defending his rights or taking the offensive. Thathe sometimes erred in his judgment cannot be denied, but the errors werehonest, and in many cases were kindled and fanned into a flame by thecrafty malice of third parties for their own pecuniary advantage. So now, having followed him in his career as an artist, which, discouraging and troubled as it may often have seemed to him, was as thecalm which precedes the storm to the years of privation and heroicstruggle which followed, I shall bring this first volume to a close. END OF VOLUME I