[Transcriber's note: Obvious printer's errors have been corrected, allother inconsistencies are as in the original. Author's spelling hasbeen maintained. 

Page 312: The amount of barrels is obviously an error of thetypographer, but the proper amount not being known, it has been leftin place. "It is probable that they are now capable of manufacturing1, 25, 000 barrels of flour annually, and this quantity would require5, 625, 000 bushels of wheat. "

The inconsistencies of the typographer or author for punctuation (orlack of) in amount have not been corrected. 

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[Illustration of an Indian woman near a river. ]

OLD MACKINAW;

OR, THE FORTRESS OF THE LAKES

AND

ITS SURROUNDINGS. 

BY

W. P. STRICKLAND. 

Philadelphia: James Challen & Son, New York: CARLTON & PORTER. --Cincinnati: POE & HITCHCOCK. Chicago: W. H. DOUGHTY. --Detroit: PUTNAM, SMITH & CO. Nashville: J. B. McFERRIN. 

1860. 

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year, 1860, by

JAMES CHALLEN & SON, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, inand for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 

PHILADELPHIA: STEREOTYPED BY S. A. GEORGE, 607 SANSOM STREET. 

PREFACE. 

In the preparation of this volume a large number of works have beenconsulted, among which the author desires to acknowledge hisindebtedness to the following: "The Travels of Baron La Hontan, "published in English and French, 1705; "Relations des Jesuits, " inthree vols. , octavo; "Marquette's Journal;" Schoolcraft's works, inthree volumes; "Shea's Catholic Missions and Discovery of theMississippi" "American Annals;" "Lanman's History of Michigan;""Parkman's Siege of Pontiac;" "Annals of the West;" "Foster andWhitney's Geological Report;" "Ferris' Great West;" "Disturnell's Tripto the Lakes;" "Lanman's Summer in the Wilderness;" "Pietzell's Lightsand Shades of Missionary Life;" "Life of Rev. John Clark;" "Lecturesbefore the Historical Society of Michigan;" "Mansfield's MackinawCity;" "Andrews' Report of Lake Trade;" "Heriot's Canada;""Presbyterian Missions, " &c. , &c. He desires particularly to mentionthe works of Schoolcraft, which have thrown more light on Indianhistory than the productions of any other author. He also desires toacknowledge his indebtedness to Wm. M. Johnson, Esq. , of MackinacIsland, for his valuable contributions to the history of thatinteresting locality. The statistics in relation to that portion ofthe country embraced in the work are taken from the most recentsources, and are believed to be perfectly reliable. 

We are indebted to J. W. Bradley, of Philadelphia, the publisher of"The North American Indians, " for the beautiful frontispiece in thiswork. Mr. Catlin, the author, visited every noted tribe, and, byresiding among them, was initiated into many of their secret andhidden mysteries. It is a valuable work. 

CONTENTS. 

 CHAPTER I. Page

 Mackinaw and its surroundings -- Indian legends -- Hiawatha -- Ottawas and Ojibwas -- Pau-pau-ke-wis -- San-ge-man -- Kau-be-man -- An Indian custom -- Dedication to the spirits -- Au-se-gum-ugs -- Exploits of San-ge-man -- Point St. Ignatius -- Magic lance -- Council of peace -- Conquests of San-ge-man. 9

 CHAPTER II. 

 Indian spiritualists -- Medicine men -- Legends -- The spirit-world -- Difference between Indian and modern spiritualists -- Chusco the spiritualist -- Schoolcraft's testimony of -- Mode of communicating with spirits -- Belief in Satanic agency -- Interesting account of clairvoyance. 19

 CHAPTER III. 

 Marquette's visit to Iroquois Point -- Chapel and Fort -- Old Mackinaw -- The French settlement in the Northwest -- Erection of chapel and Fort -- The gateway of commerce -- The rendezvous of traders, trappers, soldiers, missionaries, and Indians -- Description of fort -- Courriers des Bois -- Expedition of Marquette and Joliet to explore the Mississippi -- Green Bay -- Fox River -- Wisconsin -- Mississippi -- Peoria Indians -- Return trip -- Kaskaskia Indians -- St. Xavier Missions -- Mission to "the Illinois" -- Marquette's health declines -- Starts out on return trip to Mackinaw -- Dies and is buried at mouth of Marquette River -- Indians remove his remains to Mackinaw -- Funeral cortege -- Ceremonies -- Burial in the chapel -- Changes of time -- Schoolcraft on the place of Marquette's burial -- Missilimackinac -- Name of Jesuit missions. 39

 CHAPTER IV. 

 La Salle's visit to Mackinaw -- English traders -- La Hontan's visit -- Mackinaw an English fort -- Speech of a Chippewa chief -- Indian stratagem -- Massacre of the English at the fort -- Escape of Mr. Alexander Henry -- Early white settlement of Mackinaw -- Present description -- Relations of the Jesuits -- Remarkable Phenomena -- Parhelia -- Subterranean river. 61

 CHAPTER V. 

 Island of the giant fairies -- Possession by the English -- Erection of government house -- French remain at Old Mackinaw -- Finally abandoned -- Extent of the island -- History -- Description -- Natural curiosities -- Arch Rock -- Sugar Loaf Rock -- Scull Rock -- Dousman's farm -- Davenport's farm -- Robinson's folly -- The Devil's Punch Bowl -- Healthful atmosphere -- Transparency of the waters -- Compared with Saratoga, Cape May, and Mt. Washington as a point for health and recreation -- Description of a traveler in 1854 -- Arrival of steamers and sailing vessels at the port during the year -- Mr. Johnson's reminiscences -- Indian name of island -- Mythology -- Three brothers of the great genii -- Visit to the subterranean abode of the genii -- Vision -- Apostrophe of an old Indian chief -- Old buildings -- Door of Marquette's chapel -- John Jacob Astor and the fur trade -- Present support of the place -- Fort Mackinaw -- Fort Holmes -- Fine view -- Interesting localities -- War of 1812 -- Death of Major Holmes -- Soil of the island. 83

 CHAPTER VI. 

 Lake Superior -- Scenery -- Transparency of its waters -- Climate -- Isle Royale -- Apostles' Islands -- La Point -- Thunder Cape -- Cariboo Point -- A wonderful lake -- Romantic scenery -- Pictured rocks -- Rock Castle -- The Grand Portal -- The chapel -- Fluctuations in the waters of Lake Superior -- Curious phenomena -- Retrocession of the waters -- Mirage -- Iron mountains and mines -- Description of -- Products -- Shipments -- Copper -- Immense boulders -- Produce of the mines for 1857 -- Shipment of copper from the Lake for 1858 -- Centre of the mining country -- Iron mountains -- Copper mines of Great Britain -- Coal -- Mackinaw a great manufacturing point -- Key to the Upper Lakes -- Commerce of lakes -- Growth of cities. 105

 CHAPTER VII. 

 Lake Huron -- Eastern shore of Michigan -- Face of the country -- Picturesque view -- Rivers -- Grand -- Saginaw -- Cheboy-e-gun -- Natural scenery -- Fort Gratiot -- White Rock -- Saginaw Bay -- Thunder Bay -- Bois Blanc Island -- Drummond's Island -- British troops -- St. Helena Island -- Iroquois Woman's Point -- Point La Barbe -- Point aux Sable -- Point St. Vital -- Wreck of the Queen City -- St. Martin's Island -- Fox Point -- Moneto pa-maw -- Mille au Coquin -- Great fishing places -- Cross village -- Catholic convent. 127

 CHAPTER VIII. 

 Three epochs -- The romantic -- The military -- The agricultural and commercial -- An inviting region -- Jesuit and Protestant Missions -- First Protestant mission -- First missionary -- Islands of Mackinac and Green Bay -- La Pointe -- Saut St. Mary -- Presbyterians -- Baptists -- Methodists -- Revival at Fort Brady -- Ke-wee-naw -- Fon du Lac -- Shawnees -- Pottawatimies -- Eagle River -- Ontonagon -- Camp River -- Iroquois Point -- Saginaw Indians -- Melancholy reflections -- Number of Indians in the States and Territories. 143

 CHAPTER IX. 

 Indian name of Michigan -- Islands -- Lanman's Summer in the Wilderness -- Plains -- Trees -- Rivers -- A traditionary land -- Beautiful description -- Official report in relation to the trade of the lakes -- Green Bay -- Grand Traverse Bay -- Beaver Islands -- L'Arbre Croche -- Boundaries of Lake Michigan -- Its connections -- Railroad from Fort Wayne to Mackinaw -- Recent report of -- Amount completed -- Land grants. 159

 CHAPTER X. 

 Mackinaw, the site for a great central city -- The Venice of the lakes -- Early importance as a central position -- Nicolet -- Compared geographically with other points -- Immense chain of coast -- Future prospects -- Temperature -- Testimony of the Jesuit fathers -- Healthfulness of the climate -- Dr. Drake on Mackinaw -- Resort for invalids -- Water currents of commerce -- Surface drained by them -- Soil of the northern and southern peninsulas of Michigan -- Physical resources -- Present proprietors of Mackinaw -- Plan of the city -- Streets -- Avenues -- Park -- Lots and blocks for churches and public purposes -- Institutions of learning and objects of benevolence -- Fortifications -- Docks and ferries -- Materials for building -- Harbors -- Natural beauty of the site for a city -- Mountain ranges -- Interior lakes -- Fish -- Game. 173

 CHAPTER XI. 

 The entrepot of a vast commerce -- Surface drained -- Superiority of Mackinaw over Chicago as a commercial point -- Exports and imports -- Michigan the greatest lumber-growing region in the world -- Interminable forests of the choicest pine -- Facilities for market -- Annual product of the pineries -- Lumbering, mining, and fishing interests -- Independent of financial crises -- Mackinaw the centre of a great railroad system -- Lines terminating at this point -- North and South National Line -- Canada grants -- Growth of Northwestern cities -- Future growth and prosperity of Mackinaw -- Chicago -- Legislative provision for opening roads in Michigan -- The Forty Acre Homestead Bill -- Its provisions. 205

 CHAPTER XII. 

 The Great Western Valley -- Its growth and population -- Comparison of Atlantic with interior cities -- Relative growth of river and lake cities -- Centre of population -- Lake tonnage -- Progress of the principal centres of population. 228

 CHAPTER XIII. 

 Michigan Agricultural Reports for 1854 -- Prof. Thomas' report -- Report of J. S. Dixon -- Products of States -- Climate -- Army Meteorological Reports. 255

 CHAPTER XIV. 

 Agricultural interest -- Means of transportation -- Railways and vessels -- Lumber -- Vessels cleared -- Lake cities and Atlantic ports -- Home-market -- Breadstuffs -- Michigan flour -- Monetary panics -- Wheat -- Importations -- Provisions -- Fruit -- Live stock -- Wool -- Shipping business -- Railroads -- Lake Superior trade -- Pine lumber trade -- Copper interest -- Iron interest -- Fisheries -- Coal mines -- Salt -- Plaster beds. 272

 CHAPTER XV. 

 Desirableness of a trip to the Lakes -- Routes of travel -- Interesting localities -- Scenery -- Southern coast -- Portage Lake -- Dr. Houghton -- Ontonagon -- Apostles' Islands -- Return trip -- Points of interest -- St. Mary's River -- Lake St. George -- Point de Tour -- Lake Michigan -- Points of interest -- Chicago. 395

CHAPTER I. 

 Mackinaw and its surroundings -- Indian legends -- Hiawatha -- Ottawas and Ojibwas -- Paw-pau-ke-wis -- San-ge-man -- Kau-be-man -- An Indian custom -- Dedication to the spirits -- Au-se-gum-ugs -- Exploits of San-ge-man -- Point St. Ignatius -- Magic lance -- Council of Peace -- Conquests of San-ge-man. 

Mackinaw, with its surroundings, has an interesting and romantichistory, going back to the earliest times. The whole region of theNorthwest, with its vast wildernesses and mighty lakes, has beentraditionally invested with a mystery. The very name of Mackinaw, inthe Indian tongue, signifies the dwelling-place of the Great Genii, and many are the legends written and unwritten connected with itshistory. If the testimony of an old Indian chief at Thunder Bay can becredited, it was at old Mackinaw that Mud-je-ke-wis, the father ofHiawatha, lived and died. 

Traditional history informs us that away back in a remote period oftime, the Ottawas and the Ojibwas took up their journey from the GreatSalt Lake towards the setting sun. These tribes were never stationary, but were constantly roving about. They were compared by theneighboring tribes to Paw-pau-ke-wis, a name given by the Indians tothe light-drifting snow, which blows over the frozen ground in themonth of March, now whirling and eddying into gigantic and anon intodiminutive drifts. Paw-pau-ke-wis signifies running away. The name wasgiven to a noted Indian chief, fully equal in bravery and daring toHiawatha, Plu-re-busta, or Man-a-bosho. 

The Ottawas and Ojibwas dwelt for a time on the Manitoulin Island inLake Huron. While the tribes dwelt here, two distinguished Indianyouths, by the name of San-ge-man and Kau-be-man, remarkable for theirsprightliness, attracted the attention of their particular tribes. Both were the youngest children of their respective families. It wasthe custom of the Indians to send their boys, when young, to someretired place a short distance from their village, where they were tofast until the manitoes or spirits of the invisible world shouldappear to them. Temporary lodges were constructed for theiraccommodation. Those who could not endure the fast enjoined upon themby the Metais or Medicine-men, never rose to any eminence, but were toremain in obscurity. Comparatively few were able to bear the ordeal;but to all who waited the appointed time, and endured the fast, thespiritual guardian appeared and took the direction and control oftheir subsequent lives. San-ge-man in his first trial fasted sevendays, and on the next he tasted food, having been reduced to extremedebility by his long abstinence, during which his mind becameexceedingly elevated. In this exaltation his spiritual guide appearedto him. He was the spirit of the serpent who rules in the centre ofthe earth, and under the dark and mighty waters. This spirit revealedto him his future destiny, and promised him his guardianship throughlife. San-ge-man grew up and became remarkably strong and powerful. From his brave and reckless daring he was both an object of love andfear to the Ottawas. 

About this time, as the legend runs, the former inhabitants of theManitoulin Island and the adjoining country, who have the name of theAu-se-gum-a-ugs, commenced making inroads upon the settlements of thecombined bands, and killed several of their number. Upon this theOjibwas and Ottawas mustered a war party. San-ge-man, though young, offered himself as a warrior; and, full of heroic daring, went outwith the expedition which left the Island in great numbers in theircanoes, and crossed over to the main land on the northeast. Aftertraveling a few days they fell upon the war path of their enemies, andsoon surprised them. Terrified, they fled before the combined forces;and in the chase, the brave and daring youth outstripped all the restand succeeded in taking a prisoner in sight of the enemies' village. On their return the Ojibwas and Ottawas were pursued, and beingapprised of it by San-ge-man, they made good their escape, while theyoung brave, being instructed by his guardian spirit, allowed himselfto be taken prisoner. His hands were tied, and he was made to walk inthe midst of the warriors. At night they encamped, and after partakingof their evening meal, commenced their Indian ceremonies of drummingand shaking the rattle, accompanied with war songs. San-ge-man wasasked by the chief of the party, if he could che-qwon-dum, at the sametime giving him the rattle. He took it and commenced singing in a low, plaintive tone, which made the warriors exclaim, "He is weak-hearted, a coward, an old woman". Feigning great weakness and cowardice, hestepped up to the Indian to whom he had surrendered his war club; andtaking it, he commenced shaking the rattle, and as he danced round thewatch-fire, increasing his speed, and, gradually raising the tone ofhis voice, he ended the dance by felling a warrior with his club, exclaiming, "a coward, ugh!" Then with terrific yells and the power ofa giant, he continued his work of death at every blow. Affrighted, thewhole party fled from the watch-fire and left him alone with theslain, all of which he scalped, and returned laden with these terribletrophies of victory to join his companions who returned to the Island. 

San-ge-man having by his valor obtained a chieftainship over theOttawas, started out on the war path and conquered all the countryeast and north of Lake Huron. The drum and rattle were now heardresounding through all the villages of the combined forces, and theyextended their conquests to Saut St. Mary. For the purpose ofbettering their condition they removed from the Island to the Detour, or the mouth of the St. Mary's river, where they occupied a desertedvillage, and there separated, part going up to the Saut, which hadalso been deserted, and the other portion tarrying in the abovevillage for a year. 

At the expiration of this time San-ge-man led a war party towards thewest, and reached the present point St. Ignatius, on the north side ofthe straits where he found a large village. There was also anothervillage a little east of Point St. Ignatius, at a place now calledMoran's Bay, and still another at Point Au Chenes on the north shoreof Lake Michigan, northeast of the Island of Mackinaw. At theseplaces, old mounds, ditches, and gardens were found, which had existedfrom an unknown period. From this point a trail led to the Sautthrough an open country, and these ancient works can be distinctlytraced to this day though covered with a heavy growth of timber. 

After a hard fight with the inhabitants of these villages, San-ge-manat length succeeded in conquering them, and after expelling themburned all their lodges with the exception of a few at Point St. Ignatius. The inhabitants of this village fled across the straitssouthward from Point St. Ignatius and located at the point now knownas Old Mackinaw, or Mackinaw City. 

In the mean time, San-ge-man had returned to the Detour and removedhis entire band to Point St. Ignatius. In the following spring whilethe Ottawas were out in their fields planting corn, a party ofAu-se-gum-ugs crossed over from Old Mackinaw, on the south side ofthe straits, and killed two of the Ottawa women. San-ge-man at onceselected a party of tried warriors, and going down the straits pursuedthe Au-se-gum-ugs to the River Cheboy-e-gun, whither they had gone ona war expedition against the Mush-co-dan-she-ugs. On a sandy bay alittle west of the mouth of the river, they found their enemies'canoes drawn up, they having gone into the interior. Believing thatthey would soon return, San-ge-man ordered his party to lie in ambushuntil their return. They were not long in waiting, for on thefollowing day they made their appearance, being heated and weary withtheir marches, they all stripped and went into the Lake to batheprevious to embarking for Mackinaw. Unsuspicious of danger they playedwith the sportive waves as they dashed upon the shore, and wereswimming and diving in all directions, when the terrific yell of armedwarriors broke upon their ears. It was but the work of a moment andone hundred defenseless Indians perished in the waters. When the sadintelligence came to the remainder of the tribe at Mackinaw, they fledtowards the Grand River country. 

The village now deserted possessing superior attractions to San-ge-manand his warriors, the Ottawas crossed the straits and tookpossession, and here he remained until after he unfairly succeeded inobtaining the magic lance. 

It was while here that a large delegation of Indians of theMush-co-dan-she-ugs from the Middle village, Bear River, and GrandTraverse came to shake hands and smoke the pipe of peace with him. They had heard of his fame as a mighty warrior. The occasion was oneof great rejoicing to the inhabitants of Mackinaw, and all turned outto witness the gathering. San-ge-man and his warriors appeared incouncil, dressed in richest furs, their heads decorated with eaglefeathers, and tufts of hair of many colors. Among all the chiefs thereassembled, for proud and noble bearing none excelled the Ottawa. A furrobe covered with scalp-locks hung carelessly over his left shoulderleaving his right arm free while speaking. As the result of thesedeliberations the bands became united and thus the territory of theOttawa chief was enlarged. 

It was from this point that he sallied forth every summer in warexcursions toward the south, conquering the country along the easternshore of Lake Michigan, extending his conquests to Grand River, andoverrunning the country about the present site of Chicago. It was herethat he received reinforcements from his old allies the Ojibwas, andextended his conquests down the Illinois River until he reached the"father of waters. "

From this place he went forth to the slaughter of the Iroquois at theDetour, and expelled them from the Island of Mackinaw and Point St. Ignatius. From hence he went armed to wage an unnatural war againsthis relatives the Ojibwas, and was slain by the noble chiefKau-be-man, and it was to this place that the sad news came back ofhis fate. Thus much for the Indian history of Old Mackinaw. 

Equally romantic is the history of the early missionaries and voyagersto this great centre of the Indian tribes. On the far-off shores ofthe northwestern lakes the Jesuit Missionaries planted the cross, erected their chapels, repeated their _pater nosters_ and _avemarias_, and sung their _Te Deums_, before the cavaliers landed atJamestown or the Puritans at Plymouth. Among the Ottawas of Saut St. Marie and the Ojibwas and Hurons of Old Mackinaw, these devotedself-sacrificing followers of Ignatius Loyola commenced theirministrations upwards of two hundred years ago. They were not only thefirst missionaries among the savages of this northwestern wilderness, but they were the first discoverers and explorers of the mighty lakesand rivers of that region. In advance of civilization they penetratedthe dense unbroken wilderness, and launched their canoes upon unknownrivers, breaking the silence of their shores with their vesper hymnsand matin prayers. The first to visit the ancient seats of heathenismin the old world, they were the first to preach the Gospel among theheathen of the new. 

CHAPTER II. 

 Indian Spiritualists -- Medicine men -- Legends -- The Spirit-world -- Difference between Indian and Modern Spiritualists -- Chusco the Spiritualist -- Schoolcraft's testimony of -- Mode of communicating with spirits -- Belief in Satanic agency -- Interesting account of Clairvoyance. 

The earliest traditions of the various Indian tribes inhabiting thiscountry prove that they have practiced jugglery and all other thingspertaining to the secret arts of the old uncivilized nations of theworld. Among all the tribes have been found the priests of the occultsciences, and to this day we find Metais, Waubonos, Chees-a-kees andothers bearing the common designation of Medicine men. In modernparlance we would call them Professors of Natural Magic, or ofMagnetism, or Spiritualism. The difference however between theseIndian professors of magic and those of modern date is, that while thelatter travel round the country exhibiting their wonderfulperformances to gaping crowds, at a shilling a head, the formergenerally shrink from notoriety, and, instead of being anxious todisplay their marvelous feats, have only been constrained, afterurgent entreaty and in particular cases, to exhibit their powers. TheIndian magicians have shown more conclusively their power asclairvoyants and spiritualists, than all the rapping, table-tippingmediums of the present day. 

Numerous interesting and beautiful Indian legends show their belief ina spiritual world--of a shadowy land beyond the great river. Whetherthis was obtained by revelations from their spiritual mediums, orderived from a higher source of inspiration, we know not; but mostcertain it is, that in no belief is the Indian more firmly groundedthan that of a spirit-world. 

The Indian Chees-a-kees or spiritualists had a different and far moresatisfactory mode of communicating with departed spirits than evermodern spiritualists have attained to, or perhaps ever will. Forming, as they did, a connecting link or channel of communication betweenthis world and the world of spirits, they did not affect to speak whatthe spirit had communicated; or, perhaps, to state it more fully, their organs of speech were not employed by the spirits to communicaterevelations from the spirit world; but the spirits themselves spoke, and the responses to inquiries were perfectly audible to them and toall present. In this case all possibility of collusion was out of thequestion, and the inquirer could tell by the tones of the voice as aswell as the manner of the communication, whether the response wasgenuine or not. 

Chusco, a noted old Indian who died on Bound Island several years ago, was a spiritualist. He was converted through the labors of ProtestantMissionaries, led for many years an exemplary Christian life, and wasa communicant in the Presbyterian Church on the Island up to the timeof his death. Mr. Schoolcraft in his "Personal Memoirs, " in which hegives most interesting reminiscences, running through a period ofthirty years among numerous Indian tribes of the northwest, and whohas kindly consented to allow us to make what extracts we may desirefrom his many interesting works, says that "Chusco was the Ottawaspiritualist, and up to his death he believed that he had, while inhis heathen state, communication with spirits". Whenever it was deemedproper to obtain this communication, a pyramidal lodge was constructedof poles, eight in number, four inches in diameter, and from twelve tosixteen feet in height. These poles were set firmly in the ground tothe depth of two feet, the earth being beaten around them. The polesbeing securely imbedded, were then wound tightly with three rows ofwithes. The lodge was then covered with ap-puck-wois, securely lashedon. The structure was so stoutly and compactly built, that four strongIndians could scarcely move it by their mightiest efforts. The lodgebeing ready, the spiritualist was taken and covered all over, with theexception of his head, with a canoe sail which was lashed withbois-blanc cords and knotted. This being done, his feet and hands weresecured in a like firm manner, causing him to resemble a bundle morethan anything else. He would then request the bystanders to place himin the lodge. In a few minutes after entering, the lodge wouldcommence swaying to and fro, with a tremulous motion, accompanied withthe sound of a drum and rattle. The spiritualist then commencedchanting in a low, melancholy tone, gradually raising his voice, whilethe lodge, as if keeping time with his chant, vibrated to and fro withgreater violence, and seemed at times as if the force would tear it topieces. 

In the midst of this shaking and singing, the sail and the cords, withwhich the spiritualist was bound, would be seen to fly out of the topof the lodge with great violence. A silence would then ensue for ashort time, the lodge still continuing its tremulous vibrations. Soona rustling sound would be heard at the top of the lodge indicating thepresence of the spirit. The person or persons at whose instance themedium of the spiritualist was invoked, would then propose thequestion or questions they had to ask of the departed. 

An Indian spiritualist, residing at Little Traverse Bay, was oncerequested to enter a lodge for the purpose of affording a neighboringIndian an opportunity to converse with a departed spirit about hischild who was then very sick. The sound of a voice, unfamiliar to thepersons assembled, was heard at the top of the lodge, accompanied bysinging. The Indian, who recognized the voice, asked if his childwould die. The reply was, "It will die the day after to-morrow. Youare treated just as you treated a person a few years ago. Do you wishthe matter revealed. " The inquirer immediately dropped his head andasked no further questions. His child died at the time the spiritstated, and reports, years after, hinted that it had been poisoned, asthe father of the deceased child had poisoned a young squaw, and thatit was this same person who made the responses. 

Old Chusco, after he became a Christian, could not, according to thetestimony of Schoolcraft, be made to waver in his belief, that he wasvisited by spirits in the exhibitions connected with the tight-woundpyramidal, oracular lodge; but he believed they were evil spirits. Nocross-questioning could bring out any other testimony. He avowed that, aside from his incantations, he had no part in the shaking of thelodge, never touching the poles at any time, and that the drumming, rattling, singing, and responses were all produced by these spirits. 

The following account of Chusco, or Wau-chus-co, from the pen ofWilliam M. Johnson, Esq. , of Mackinaw Island, will be found to bedeeply interesting:

 * * * * *

"Wau-chus-co was a noted Indian spiritualist and Clairvoyant, and wasborn near the head of Lake Michigan--the year not known. He was eightor ten years old, he informed me, when the English garrison wasmassacred at Old Fort Missilimackinac. He died on Round Island, opposite the village and island of Mackinaw, at an advanced age. 

"As he grew up from childhood, he found that he was an orphan, andlived with his uncle, but under the care of his grandmother. Uponattaining the age of fifteen his grandmother and uncle urged him tocomply with the ancient custom of their people, which was to fast, andwait for the manifestations of the Gitchey-monedo, --whether he wouldgrant him a guardian spirit or not, to guide and direct him throughlife. He was told that many young men of his tribe tried to fast, butthat hunger overpowered their wishes to obtain a spiritual guardian;he was urged to do his best, and not to yield as others had done. 

"Wau-chus-co died in 1839 or '40. He had, for more than ten yearsprevious to his death, led an exemplary Christian life, and was acommunicant of the Presbyterian Church on this Island, up to the timeof his death. A few days previous to his death, I paid him a visit. 'Come in, come in, nosis!' (grandson) said he. After being seated, andwe had lit our pipes; I said to him, 'Ne-me-sho-miss, (mygrandfather, ) you are now very old and feeble; you cannot expect tolive many days; now, tell me the truth, who was it that moved yourchees-a-kee lodge when you practiced your spiritual art?' A pauseensued before he answered:--'Nosis, as you are in part of my nation, Iwill tell you the truth: I know that I will die soon. I fasted tendays when I was a young man, in compliance with the custom of mytribe. While my body was feeble from long fasting, my soul increasedin its powers; it appeared to embrace a vast extent of space, and thecountry within this space, was brought plainly before my vision, withits misty forms and beings--I speak of my spiritual vision. It was, while I was thus lying in a trance, my soul wandering in space, thatanimals, some of frightful size and form, serpents of monstrous size, and birds of different varieties and plumage, appeared to me andaddressed me in human language, proposing to act as my guardianspirits. While my mind embraced these various moving forms, a superiorintelligence in the form of man, surrounded by a wild, brilliantlight, influenced my soul to select one of the bird-spirits, resembling the kite in look and form, to be the emblem of my guardianspirit, upon whose aid I was to call in time of need, and that hewould be always prepared to render me assistance whenever my body andsoul should be prepared to receive manifestations. My grandmotherroused me to earth again, by inquiring if I needed food: I ate, andwith feeble steps, soon returned to our lodge. 

"'The first time that I ever chees-a-keed, was on a war expeditiontoward Chicago, or where it is now located--upon an urgent occasion. We were afraid that our foes would attack us unawares, and as we werealso short of provisions, our chief urged me incessantly, until Iconsented. After preparing my soul and body, by fasting on bitterherbs, &c. , I entered the Chees-a-kee lodge, which had been preparedfor me:--the presence of my guardian spirit was soon indicated by aviolent swaying of the lodge to and fro. "Tell us! tell us! where ourenemies are?" cried out the chief and warriors. Soon, the vision of mysoul embraced a large extent of country, which I had never beforeseen--every object was plainly before me--our enemies were in theirvillages, unsuspicious of danger; their movements and acts I couldplainly see; and mentally or spiritually, I could hear theirconversation. Game abounded in another direction. Next day we procuredprovisions, and a few days afterward a dozen scalps graced ourtriumphant return to the village of the Cross. I exerted my powersagain frequently among my tribe, and, to satisfy them, I permittedthem to tie my feet and hands, and lash me round with ropes, as theythought proper. They would then place me in the Chees-a-kee lodge, which would immediately commence shaking and swaying to and fro, indicating the presence of my guardian spirit: frequently I saw abright, luminous light at the top of the lodge, and the words of thespirit would be audible to the spectators outside, who could notunderstand what was said; while mentally, I understood the words andlanguage spoken. 

"'In the year 1815, the American garrison at this post expected avessel from Detroit, with supplies for the winter--a month had elapsedbeyond the time for her arrival, and apprehensions of starvation wereentertained; finally, a call was made to me by the commanding officer, through the traders. After due preparation I consented; theChees-a-kee lodge was surrounded by Indians and whites; I had nosooner commenced shaking my rattle and chanting, than the spiritsarrived; the rustling noise they made through the air, was heard, andthe sound of their voices was audible to all. 

"'The spirits directed my mind toward the southern end of LakeHuron--it lay before me with its bays and islands; the atmospherelooked hazy, resembling our Indian Summer; my vision terminated alittle below the mouth of the St. Clair River--there lay the vessel, disabled! the sailors were busy in repairing spars and sails. My soulknew that they would be ready in two days, and that in seven days shewould reach this Island, (Mackinaw, ) by the south channel, [at thattime an unusual route, ] and I so revealed it to the inquirers. On theday I mentioned the schooner hove in sight, by the south channel. Thecaptain of the vessel corroborated all I had stated. 

"'I am now a praying Indian (Christian). I expect soon to die, Nosis. This is the truth: I possessed a power, or a power possessed me, whichI cannot explain or fully describe to you. I never attempted to movethe lodge by my own physical powers--I held communion withsupernatural beings or souls, who acted upon my soul or mind, revealing to me the knowledge which I have related to you. '

"The foregoing merely gives a few acts of the power exhibited by thisremarkable, half-civilized Indian. I could enumerate many instances inwhich this power has been exhibited among our Indians. TheseChees-a-kees had the power of influencing the mind of an Indian at adistance for good or evil, even to the deprivation of life among them:so also in cases of rivalship, as hunters or warriors. This influencehas even extended to things material, while in the hands of thoseinfluenced. The soul or mind--perhaps nervous system of theindividual, being powerfully acted upon by a spiritual battery, greater than the one possessed more or less by all human beings. "

 * * * * *

In Schoolcraft's "American Indians" an interesting account is given ofa woman-spiritualist, who bore the name of the "Prophetess ofChe-moi-che-goi-me-gou. " Among the Indians she was called "The womanof the blue-robed cloud. " The account was given by herself after shehad become a member of the Methodist Church and renounced allconnection with spirits. The following is her narrative:--

 * * * * *

"When I was a girl of about twelve or thirteen years of age, my mothertold me to look out for something that would happen to me. Accordingly, one morning early, in the middle of winter, I found anunusual sign, and ran off, as far from the lodge as I could, andremained there until my mother came and found me out. She knew whatwas the matter, and brought me nearer to the family lodge, and bade mehelp her in making a small lodge of branches of the spruce tree. Shetold me to remain there, and keep away from every one, and as adiversion, to keep myself employed in chopping wood, and that shewould bring me plenty of prepared bass-wood bark to twist into twine. She told me she would come to see me, in two days, and that in themean time I must not even taste snow. 

"I did as directed; at the end of two days she came to see me. Ithought she would surely bring me something to eat, but to mydisappointment she brought nothing. I suffered more from _thirst_ thanhunger, though I felt my stomach gnawing. My mother sat quietly downand said (after ascertaining that I had not tasted anything), 'Mychild, you are the youngest of your sisters, and none are now left meof all my sons and children, but you _four_' (alluding to her two eldersisters, herself and a little son, still a mere lad). 'Who, ' shecontinued, 'will take care of us poor women? Now, my daughter, listento me, and try to obey. Blacken your face and fast _really_, that theMaster of Life may have pity on you and me, and on us all. Do not, inthe least, deviate from my counsels, and in two days more, I will cometo you. He will help you, if you are determined to do what is right, and tell me, whether you are favored or not, by the _true_ GreatSpirit; and if your visions are not good, reject them. ' So saying, shedeparted. 

"I took my little hatchet and cut plenty of wood, and twisted the cordthat was to be used in sewing _ap-puk-way-oon-un_, or mats for the useof the family. Gradually I began to feel less appetite, but my thirstcontinued; still I was fearful of touching the snow to allay it, bysucking it, as my mother had told me that if I did so, thoughsecretly, the Great Spirit would see me, and the lesser spirits also, and that my fasting would be of no use. So I continued to fast tillthe fourth day, when my mother came with a little tin dish, andfilling it with snow, she came to my lodge, and was well pleased tofind that I had followed her injunctions. She melted the snow, andtold me to drink it. I did so, and felt refreshed, but had a desirefor more, which she told me would not do, and I contented myself withwhat she had given me. She again told me to get and follow a goodvision--a vision that might not only do us good, but also benefitmankind, if I could. She then left me, and for two days she did notcome near me, nor any human being, and I was left to my ownreflections. The night of the sixth day, I fancied a voice called tome, and said: 'Poor child! I pity your condition; come, you areinvited this way;' and I thought the voice proceeded from a certaindistance from my lodge. I obeyed the summons, and going to the spotfrom which the voice came, found a thin, shining path, like a silvercord, which I followed. It led straight forward, and, it seemed, upward. After going a short distance I stood still and saw on my righthand the new moon, with a flame rising from the top like a candle, which threw around a broad light. On the left appeared the sun, nearthe point of its setting. I went on, and I beheld on my right the faceof Kau-ge-gag-be-qua, or the everlasting woman, who told me her name, and said to me, 'I give you my name, and you may give it to another. Ialso give you that which I have, life everlasting. I give you longlife on the earth, and skill in saving life in others. Go, you arecalled on high. '

"I went on, and saw a man standing with a large, circular body, andrays from his head, like horns. He said, 'Fear not, my name is MonedoWininees, or the Little man Spirit. I give this name to your firstson. It is my life. Go to the place you are called to visit. ' Ifollowed the path till I could see that it led up to an opening in thesky, when I heard a voice, and standing still, saw the figure of a manstanding near the path, whose head was surrounded with a brillianthalo, and his breast was covered with squares. He said to me: 'Look atme, my name is O-shau-wau-e-geeghick, or the Bright Blue Sky. I am theveil that covers the opening into the sky. Stand and listen to me. Donot be afraid. I am going to endow you with gifts of life, and put youin array that you may withstand and endure. ' Immediately I saw myselfencircled with bright points which rested against me like needles, butgave me no pain, and they fell at my feet. This was repeated severaltimes, and at each time they fell to the ground. He said, 'wait and donot fear, till I have said and done all I am about to do. ' I then feltdifferent instruments, first like awls, and then like nails stuck intomy flesh, but neither did they give me pain, but, like the needles, fell at my feet as often as they appeared. He then said, 'that isgood, ' meaning my trial by these points. 'You will see length of days. Advance a little further, ' said he. I did so, and stood at thecommencement of the opening. 'You have arrived, ' said he, 'at thelimit you cannot pass. I give you my name, you can give it to another. Now, return! Look around you. There is a conveyance for you. Do not beafraid to get on its back, and when you get to your lodge, you musttake that which sustains the human body. ' I turned, and saw a kind offish swimming in the air, and getting upon it as directed, was carriedback with celerity, my hair floating behind me in the air. And as soonas I got back, my vision ceased. 

"In the morning, being the sixth day of my fast, my mother came with alittle bit of dried trout. But such was my sensitiveness to allsounds, and my increased power of scent, produced by fasting, thatbefore she came in sight I heard her, while a great way off, and whenshe came in, I could not bear the smell of the fish or herself either. She said, 'I have brought something for you to eat, only a mouthful, to prevent your dying. ' She prepared to cook it, but I said, 'Mother, forbear, I do not wish to eat it--the smell is offensive to me. ' Sheaccordingly left off preparing to cook the fish, and again encouragedme to persevere, and try to become a comfort to her in her old age, and bereaved state, and left me. 

"I attempted to cut wood, as usual, but in the effort I fell back onthe snow, from weariness, and lay some time; at last I made an effortand rose, and went to my lodge and lay down. I again saw the vision, and each person who had before spoken to me, and heard the promises ofdifferent kinds made to me, and the songs. I went the same path whichI had pursued before, and met with the same reception. I also hadanother vision, or celestial visit, which I shall presently relate. Mymother came again on the seventh day, and brought me some pounded cornboiled in _snow-water_, for she said I must not drink water from lakeor river. After taking it, I related my vision to her. She said itwas good, and spoke to me to continue my fast three days longer. Idid so; at the end of which she took me home, and made a feast inhonor of my success, and invited a great many guests. I was told toeat sparingly, and to take nothing too hearty or substantial; but thiswas unnecessary, for my abstinence had made my senses so acute, thatall animal food had a gross and disagreeable odor. 

"After the seventh day of my fast (she continued), while I was lyingin my lodge, I saw a dark, round object descending from the sky like around stone, and enter my lodge. As it came near, I saw that it hadsmall feet and hands like a human body. It spoke to me and said, 'Igive you the gift of seeing into futurity, that you may use it for thebenefit of yourself and the Indians--your relations andtribes-people. ' It then departed, but as it went away, it assumedwings, and looked to me like the red-headed woodpecker. 

"In consequence of being thus favored, I assumed the arts of amedicine-woman and a prophetess: but never those of a Wabeno. Thefirst time I exercised the prophetical art, was at the strong andrepeated solicitations of my friends. It was in the winter season, andthey were then encamped west of the Wisacoda, or Brule River, of LakeSuperior, and between it and the plains west. There were, beside mymother's family and relatives, a considerable number of families. Theyhad been some time at the place, and were near starving, as they couldfind no game. One evening the chief of the party came into my mother'slodge. I had lain down, and was supposed to be asleep, and herequested of my mother that she would allow me to try my skill torelieve them. My mother spoke to me, and after some conversation, shegave her consent. I told them to build the _Jee-suk-aun_, or prophet'slodge _strong_, and gave particular directions for it. I directed thatit should consist of ten posts or saplings, each of a different kindof wood, which I named. When it was finished, and tightly wound withskins, the entire population of the encampment assembled around it, and I went in, taking only a small drum. I immediately knelt down, andholding my head near the ground, in a position as near as may beprostrate, began beating my drum, and reciting my songs orincantations. The lodge commenced shaking violently, by supernaturalmeans. I knew this by the compressed current of air above, and thenoise of motion. This being regarded by me, and by all without, as aproof of the presence of the spirits I consulted, I ceased beatingand singing, and lay still, waiting for questions in the position Iat first assumed. 

"The first question put to me was in relation to the game, and _where_it was to be found. The response was given by the orbicular spirit, who had appeared to me. He said, 'How short-sighted you are! If youwill go in a _west_ direction, you will find game in abundance. ' Nextday the camp was broken up, and they all moved westward, the hunters, as usual, going far ahead. They had not proceeded far beyond thebounds of their former hunting circle, when they came upon tracks ofmoose, and that day they killed a female and two young moose, nearlyfull-grown. They pitched their encampment anew, and had abundance ofanimal food in this new position. 

"My reputation was established by this success, and I was afterwardnoted in the tribe, in the art of a medicine-woman, and sung the songswhich I have given to you. "

CHAPTER III. 

 Marquette's visit to Iroquois Point -- Chapel and Fort -- Old Mackinaw -- The French Settlement in the Northwest -- Erection of Chapel and Fort -- The Gateway of Commerce -- The Rendezvous of Traders, Trappers, Soldiers, Missionaries, and Indians -- Description of Fort -- Courriers des Bois -- Expedition of Marquette and Joliet to Explore the Mississippi -- Green Bay -- Fox River -- Wisconsin -- Mississippi -- Peoria Indians -- Return Trip -- Kaskaskia Indians -- St. Xavier Missions -- Mission to "the Illinois" -- Marquette's Health declines -- Starts out on Return trip to Mackinaw -- Dies and is Buried at mouth of Marquette River -- Indians remove his Remains to Mackinaw -- Funeral Cortege -- Ceremonies -- Burial in the Chapel -- Changes of time -- Schoolcraft on the Place of Marquette's Burial -- Missilimackinac -- Name of Jesuit Missions. 

In the year 1670, the devoted and self-sacrificing missionary, JeanMarquette, with a company of Indians of the Huron tribe, subsequentlyknown as the Wyandots from the Georgian Bay, on the northeasternextremity of Lake Huron, entered for the first time the old Indiantown on the northern side of the Mackinaw Straits. During the time hewas planting his colony, and erecting his chapel at Iroquois Point, which he afterward designated St. Ignace, he resided on the MackinawIsland. In 1671, he furnished an account of the island and itssurroundings, which was published in "The Relations Des Jesuits". Hesays:

"Missilimackinac is an island famous in these regions, of more than aleague in diameter, and elevated in some places by such high cliffs asto be seen more than twelve leagues off. It is situated just in thestrait forming the communication between Lakes Huron and Illinois(Michigan). It is the key, and, and as it were, the gate for all thetribes from the south, as the Saut, (St. Marie) is for those of thenorth, there being in this section of country only those two passagesby water, for a great number of nations have to go by one or other ofthese channels, in order to reach the French settlements. 

"This presents a peculiarly favorable opportunity, both forinstructing those who pass here, and also for obtaining easy accessand conveyance to their places of abode. 

"This place is the most noted in these regions for the abundance ofits fisheries; for, according to the Indian saying, 'this is the homeof the fishes. ' Elsewhere, although they exist in large numbers, it isnot properly their 'home, ' which is in the neighborhood ofMissilimackinac. 

"In fact, beside the fish common to all the other tribes, as theherring, carp, pike, gold-fish, white-fish and sturgeon, there arefound three varieties of the trout--one common; the second of a largersize, three feet long and one foot thick; the third monstrous, for wecannot otherwise describe it--it being so fat that the Indians, whohave a peculiar relish for fats, can scarcely eat it. Besides, thesupply is such that a single Indian will take forty or fifty of themthrough the ice, with a single spear, in three hours. 

"It is this attraction which has heretofore drawn to a point soadvantageous, the greater part of the savages, in this country drivenaway by fear of the Iroquois. The three tribes at present living onthe _Baye des Puans_ (Green Bay) as strangers, formerly dwelt on themain land near the middle of this island--some on the borders of LakeIllinois, others on the borders of Lake Huron. A part of them, called_Sauteurs_, had their abode on the main land at the West, and theothers look upon this place as their country for passing the winter, when there are no fish at the _Saut_. The Hurons, called_Etonontathronnons_, have lived for some years in the same island, toescape the Iroquois. Four villages of Ottawas had also their abode inthis quarter. 

"It is worthy of notice that those who bore the name of the island, and called themselves Missilimackinac, were so numerous, that some ofthe survivors yet living here assure us that they once had thirtyvillages, all inclosed in a fortification of a league and a half incircuit, when the Iroquois came and defeated them, inflated by avictory they had gained over three thousand men of that nation, whohad carried their hostilities as far as the country of the_Agnichronnons_. 

"In one word, the quantity of fish, united with the excellence of thesoil for Indian corn, has always been a powerful attraction to thetribes in these regions, of which the greater part subsist only onfish, but some on Indian corn. On this account many of these sametribes, perceiving that the peace is likely to be established with theIroquois, have turned their attention to this point so convenient fora return to their own country, and will follow the examples of thosewho have made a beginning on the islands of Lake Huron, which by thismeans will soon be peopled from one end to the other, an event highlydesirable to facilitate the instruction of the Indian race, whom itwould not be necessary to seek by journeys of two or three hundredleagues on these great lakes, with inconceivable danger and hardships. 

"In order to aid the execution of the design, signified to us by manyof the savages, of taking up their abode at this point, where somehave already passed the winter, hunting in the neighborhood, weourselves have also wintered here, in order to make arrangements forestablishing the mission of _St. Ignace_, from whence it will be easyto have access to all the Indians of Lake Huron, when the severaltribes shall have settled each on its own lands. 

"With these advantages, the place has also its inconveniences, particularly for the French, who are not yet familiar, as are thesavages, with the different kinds of fishery, in which the latter aretrained from their birth; the winds and the tides occasion no smallembarrassment to the fishermen. 

"The winds: For this is the central point between the three greatlakes which surround it, and which seem incessantly tossing ball ateach other. For no sooner has the wind ceased blowing from LakeMichigan than Lake Huron hurls back the gale it has received, andLake Superior in its turn, sends forth its blasts from anotherquarter, and thus the game is played from one to the other--and asthese lakes are of vast extent, the winds cannot be otherwise thanboisterous, especially during the autumn. "

"Old Mackinaw, " the Indian name of which is Pe-quod-e-non-ge, anIndian town on the south side of the Straits, became the place of thefirst French settlement northwest of Fort Frontenac, or Cadaraeque onLake Ontario. The settlement was made by father Marquette, in 1671. Pe-quod-e-non-ge, as we have seen in a previous Chapter, with itscoasts and islands before it, has been the theatre of some of the mostexciting and interesting events in Indian history, previous to thearrival of the "white man. " It was the Metropolis of a portion of theOjibwa, and Ottawa nations. It was there that their Congresses met, toadopt a policy which terminated in the conquest of the country southof it--it was there that the tramping feet of thousands of plumed andpainted warriors shook Pe-quod-e-non-ge, while dancing their wardances--it was from there that the startling sound of the war yell ofthese thousands was wafted to the adjacent coast and islands, makingthe peaceful welkin ring with their unearthly shouts of victory ordeath. In process of time a Chapel and Fort were erected, and itbecame a strong-hold and trading post of the greatest importance tothe entire region of the northwest, being the gateway of commercebetween the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi, and also the grandavenue to the Upper Lakes of the north, and the rendezvous of thetraders, merchants, trappers, soldiers, missionaries and Indians ofthe whole northwest. Villages of Hurons and Ottawas were located inthe vicinity of the Fort and Chapel. The Fort inclosed an area ofabout several acres, and was surrounded with cedar pickets. Theremains of the fort and buildings can still be seen. On an eminencenot far from the fort, the Ottawas erected a fortification. Within theinclosure of the Fort and adjoining the Chapel, the Jesuits erected aCollege, the first institution of the kind in the Western country. Itwas also the great depot for the _Courriers des Bois_, or rangers ofthe woods, who, from their distant excursions, would congregate here. The goods which they had brought from Canada, for the purpose ofexchanging for furs with the Indians of Green Bay and Illinois, andalong the shores of Lake Superior, and the region lying between thatand the banks of the Mississippi, had to be deposited here, and theywere usually on hand a long time before they could be disposed of andtransferred to the distant marts of trade. 

In the year 1672, while Marquette was engaged in his duties as priestat the Chapel, the site of which now bears the name of St. Ignatius, and also employed in instructing the Indian youth of the villages, hewas visited by Joliet, a member of the same order who bore acommission from Frontenac, then Governor of Canada, empowering him toselect Marquette as a companion and enter upon a voyage of discovery. The winter was spent by these men in making preparations to carry outthe commands of their superiors. The specific object of their missionwas to explore the Mississippi, which was supposed to empty into theGulf of California. That all possible information might be gained inregard to this unknown river, Marquette held conversations with allthe noted Indian explorers and trappers, as well as the rangers of thewoods within his reach. From the information thus gained he made out amap of the river, including its source and direction, and all thestreams known to empty into it. 

Spring at length came, and on a bright, beautiful morning in the monthof May, having bid adieu to his charge at his mission, and commendedhis flock to God, Marquette and his companion, with five othersselected for the purpose, entered their bark canoes with paddles inhand, and St. Ignatius was soon lost to the sight of the devotedmissionary forever. After sailing along the Straits they entered LakeMichigan, and continued their voyage until they arrived at Green Bay, passed the mouth of the Menominee River, finally reaching that of theFox River. On the 7th of June, having sailed upwards of two hundredmiles, the voyagers reached the mission of St. Francis Xavier. Theyhad now reached the limit of all former French or English discoveries. The new and unknown West spread out before them, and the thousanddangers and hardships by river and land, heightened by tales of horrorrelated to them by the Indians, were presented to their imagination. Resolutely determined to prosecute the enterprise committed to theircharge, they knelt upon the shore of Fox River to renew theirdevotions and obtain the divine guidance and protection. Encouraged bypast success, and urged on by a strong faith, they launched theircanoes upon the bosom of the Fox River, and breaking the silence ofits shores by the dip of their paddles, they sailed up its current. When they reached the rapids of that river, it was with difficultythey were enabled to proceed. There was not power enough in thepaddles of the two canoes to stem the current, and they were obligedto wade up the rapids on the jagged rocks, and thus tow them along. Having made the voyage of the Fox they arrived at the portage, andtaking their canoes containing their provision and clothes upon theirshoulders, they reached the Wisconsin and launched them upon thatstream. They had no longer to breast a rapid current, as the waters ofthe Wisconsin flowed west. With renewed courage they prosecuted theirvoyage, and after ten days their hearts were made glad at the sight ofthe broad and beautiful river which they were entering, and which theysupposed would bear them to the far-off western sea. They had reachedthe "father of waters. " No sight could be more charming than thatwhich presented itself to their vision as they beheld on either side, alternately stretching away to a vast distance, immense forests ofmountain and plain. 

At length, on the 25th of June, as they were sailing along near theeastern shore, they discovered foot-prints in the sand. At sight ofthese they landed and fastening their canoes, that they might againlook upon the face of human beings, they followed an Indian path whichled up the bank. They were not long in finding two Indian villages, which proved to be those of the "Pewa-rias" and "Moing-wenas. " Inanswer to a question proposed by Marquette, who addressed them inIndian, and inquired who they were; they answered, "We are Illinois. "After an exchange of friendly greetings with these peaceable Indians, the voyagers re-embarked and passed on down the river. They continuedon their downward passage until they reached the mouth of theMissouri, which poured its turbid flood into the Mississippi; andstill further until they passed the mouth of the Ohio, and then ondown until they passed the Arkansas, and arrived within thirty milesof the mouth of the Mississippi. It was not necessary to proceed anyfurther to satisfy the explorers that the river entered into the Gulfof Mexico, instead of that of California. 

Having accomplished the end of the expedition, the company started outupon their return trip on the 17th of July. When they reached themouth of the Illinois river, they determined on returning by thatroute to Mackinaw. Arriving at the portage of that river they fell inwith a tribe of Indians who called themselves the Kaskaskias, whokindly volunteered to conduct them to Lake Michigan, where in duetime they arrived. After sailing along the western shore of the lakethey again found themselves at Green Bay, and were heartily welcomedby the brethren at the mission of St. Francis Xavier. Worn down withfatigue, Marquette determined to remain here to recruit his healthbefore returning to his missionary labors. He spent his time at thismission post in copying his journal of the voyage down the Mississippiand back, which he accompanied by a map of the river and country, andsent by the Ottawa flotilla to his superiors at Montreal. The returnof this flotilla brought him orders for the establishment of a missionamong the Illinois, with whom he had so friendly an interview on hisexploring voyage. Having passed the winter and succeeding summer atthe St. Xavier mission, he started out in the fall for Kaskaskia. Thedifficulties of the journey were such, it having to be accomplished byland and water, that his health, which had been greatly enfeebled byhis former voyage, was not sufficient to enable him to endure the coldwinds of winter which had set in before the completion of the journey. On reaching the Chicago River it was found closed, and he did notconsider it prudent to undertake an over-land journey. He thereforeresolved to winter at that point, and giving his Indian companionswho accompanied him the proper instructions and pious counsel, he sentthem back to Green Bay. Two Frenchmen made an arrangement to remainwith him during the winter. The nearest persons to their lodge werefifty miles distant. They were French trappers and traders, one ofwhom bore the title of a doctor. This latter person being informed ofMarquette's ill-health paid him a visit, and did what he could for hisrelief. He also received friendly offices from the Indians in theneighborhood, a party of whom proposed to carry him and all hisbaggage to the contemplated mission at Kaskaskia. His health, however, was such that it did not allow him to accept their kind offer, and hewas obliged to remain in his camp during the winter. 

Spring at length returned after a long and dreary winter, andMarquette, with some Indian companions, started out for the upperwaters of the Illinois River. In about two weeks he reached Kaskaskia, and at once entered upon the duties of his mission. After havinginstructed the Indians, so as to enable them to understand the objectsof his mission to them, he called them all together in the openprairie, where he had erected a rude altar surmounted by the cross, and adorned with pictures of the Virgin Mary. The chiefs and warriors, and the whole tribe, were addressed by him in their native tongue. Hemade a number of presents to them, the more effectually to gain theiraffections and confidence, and then related to them the simple storyof the cross, after which he celebrated mass. The scene was trulyimpressive, and the effect upon the sons of the forest was all thatthe missionary could desire. Bright and cheering were the prospects ofconverting the Kaskaskias to Christianity, but the devoted missionarywas doomed to disappointment. His former malady returned, and assumeda type of so alarming a nature, that he was satisfied his labors onearth would soon come to an end. 

Thoughts of his beloved mission at Mackinaw, where he had spent somany days in preaching to Ottawas and Hurons, and in teaching theiryouth Christian science, filled his mind; and the Christian, not tosay natural, desire of his heart, was again to bow in the Chapel ofSt. Ignatius, and again behold the parents and children of his formercharge. Having received the last rites of the church he set out to thelake, accompanied by the Kaskaskias who sorrowed much at hisdeparture, but who were comforted by the dying missionary, whoassured them that another would soon be sent to take his place. Whenthey reached the shore of Lake Michigan the Indians returned, and withhis two French companions Marquette embarked in a canoe upon itswaters. As they coasted along the eastern shore of the lake the healthof Marquette continued to fail, and he at last became so weak thatwhen they landed to encamp for the night they had to lift him out ofthe canoe. Much further they could not proceed, as the journey of lifewith the missionary was rapidly drawing to a close. 

Conscious of his approaching dissolution, as they were gently glidingalong the shore, he directed his companions to paddle into the mouthof a small river which they were nearing, and pointing to an eminencenot far from the bank, he languidly said, "Bury me there. " That river, to this day, bears the name of the lamented Marquette. On landing theyerected a bark cabin, and stretched the dying missionary ascomfortably as they could beneath its humble roof. Having blessed somewater with the usual ceremonies of the Catholic Church, he gave hiscompanions directions how to proceed in his last moments. Heinstructed them also in regard to the manner in which they were toarrange his body when dead, and the ceremonies to be performed whenit was committed to the earth. He then, for the last time, heard theconfessions of his companions, encouraging them to rely on the mercyand protection of God, and then sent them away to take the repose theyso much needed. After a few hours he felt that he was about taking hislast sleep, and calling them, he took his crucifix and placing it intheir hands, pronounced in a clear voice his profession of faith, thanking the Almighty for the favor of permitting him to die a JesuitMissionary. Then calmly folding his arms upon his breast with the nameof Jesus on his lips, and his eyes raised to heaven, while over hisface beamed the radiance of immortality, he passed away to the land ofthe blest. 

In conformity with the directions of the deceased, in due time hiscompanions prepared the body for burial, and to the sound of hisChapel bell bore it slowly and solemnly to the place designated, wherethey committed it to the dust, and erected a rude cross to point outto the passing traveler the place of his grave. 

James Marquette was of a most ancient and honorable family of the cityof Laon, France. Born at the ancient seat of his family, in the year1637, he was, through his pious mother, Rose de la Salle, allied tothe venerable John Baptist de la Salle, the founder of the instituteknown as the Brothers of the Christian Schools. At the age ofseventeen he entered the Society of Jesus, and after two years ofstudy and self-examination had passed away, he was, as is usual withthe young Jesuits, employed in teaching, which position he held fortwelve years. No sooner had he been invested with the priesthood, thanhis desire to become in all things an imitator of his chosen patron, St. Francis Xavier, induced him to seek a mission in some land thatknew not God, that he might labor there to his latest breath, and dieunaided and alone. His desire was gratified. For nine years he laboredamong the Indians, and was able to preach to them in ten differentlanguages; but he rests from his labors, and his works follow him. Hedied, May 18, 1675. 

The Indians of Mackinaw and vicinity, and also those of Kaskaskia, were in great sorrow when the tidings of Marquette's death reachedthem. Not long after this melancholy event, a large company ofOjibwas, Ottawas, and Hurons, who had been out on a huntingexpedition, landed their canoes at the mouth of the Marquette river, with the intention of removing his remains to Mackinaw. They had heardof his desire to have his body interred in the consecrated ground ofSt. Ignatius, and they had resolved that the dying wish of themissionary should be fulfilled. As they stood around in silence andgazed upon the cross that marked the place of his burial, the heartsof the stern warriors were moved. The bones of the missionary were dugup and placed in a neat box of bark made for the occasion, and thenumerous canoes which formed a large fleet started from the mouth ofthe river with nothing but the sighs of the Indians, and the dip ofthe paddles to break the silence of the scene. As they advancedtowards Mackinaw, the funeral cortege was met by a large number ofcanoes bearing Ottawas, Hurons, and Iroquois, and still others shotout ever and anon to join the fleet. 

When they arrived in sight of the Point, and beheld the cross of St. Ignatius as if painted against the northern sky, the missionaries incharge came out to the beach clad in vestments adapted to theoccasion. How was the scene heightened when the priests commenced, asthe canoe bearing the remains of Marquette neared the shore, to chantthe requiem for the dead. The whole population was out, entirelycovering the beach, and as the procession marched up to the Chapelwith cross and prayer, and tapers burning, and laid the bark boxbeneath a pall made in the form of a coffin, the sons and daughtersof the forest wept. After the funeral service was ended, the coffinwas placed in a vault in the middle of the church, where the Catholichistorian says, "Marquette reposes as the guardian angel of the Ottawamissions. "

"He was the first and last white man who ever had such an assembly ofthe wild sons of the forest to attend him to his grave. 

"So many stirring events succeeded each other after thisperiod--first, the war between the English Colonists, and the French;then the Colonists with the Indians, the Revolutionary War, the IndianWars, and finally the War of 1812, with the death of all those whowitnessed his burial, including the Fathers who officiated at thetime, whose papers were lost, together with the total destruction andevacuation of this mission station for many years, naturallyobliterated all recollections of the transaction, which accounts forthe total ignorance of the present inhabitants of Point St. Ignatiusrespecting it. The locality of his grave is lost; but only until theArchangel's trump, at the last, shall summon him from his narrowgrave, with those plumed and painted warriors who now lie around him. "

The Missionaries who succeeded Marquette, at Mackinaw, continuedtheir labors until 1706, when, finding it useless to continue themission, or struggle any longer with superstition and vice, theyburned down their College and Chapel, and returned to Quebec. Thegovernor, alarmed at this step, at last promised to enforce the lawsagainst the dissolute French, and prevailed on Father Marest toreturn. Soon after the Ottawas, discontented at Detroit, a Frenchpost, which was served by the Recollects, and where the blood of aRecollect had been shed in a riot, began to move back to Mackinaw, andthe mission was renewed. In 1721, Charlevoix visited this mission, andthis is the last we hear of it. 

Nearly two hundred years have passed away since that event. The Chapelof St. Ignatius has passed away, and with it the Chapel, and Fort, andCollege at Old Mackinaw. Nothing is left but the stone walls andstumps of the pickets which surrounded them, and which may be seen tothis day. To the Catholic, this consecrated spot, the site of one oftheir first Chapels, and their first College in the great northwest, must possess unusual interest. As there is a difference of opinion inrelation to the burial place of Marquette, whether it was on the northor south side of the Straits, we give the following from"Schoolcraft's Discovery of the Sources of the Mississippi. " He says:"They carried his body to the Mission of Old Mackinaw, of which he wasthe founder, where it was interred. It is known that the Mission ofMackinaw fell on the downfall of the Jesuits. When the post ofMackinaw was removed from the peninsula to the island, which was about1780, the bones of the Missionary were transferred to the old Catholicburial ground, in the village on the island. There they remained tilla land or property question arose to agitate the Church, and when thecrisis happened the whole grave-yard was disturbed, and his bones, with others, were transferred to the Indian village of La Crosse, which is in the vicinity of L'Arbre Croche, Michigan. "

There is a difference of opinion also as to the point from whenceMarquette and his companions started for the discovery of theMississippi. Schoolcraft says: "Wherever Missilimackinac is mentionedin the Missionary letters, or in the history of this period, it is theancient Fort on the apex of the Michigan peninsula that is alludedto. " In his Introduction to the above work, he says, that "FatherMarquette, after laying the foundation of Missilimackinac, proceededin company with Sieur Joliet, up the Fox River of Green Bay, andcrossing the portage into the Wisconsin, entered the Mississippi in1673. "

It is an established fact, that Marquette organized the Mission at OldMackinaw, in the year 1671, subsequently to that at the oppositepoint, and that he remained there until the year 1673, when heembarked with Joliet on his exploring tour of the Mississippi. Charlevoix places the Mission of St. Ignace, on the south side of theStraits, adjoining the Fort, and has made no such designation on thenorth side, showing at least that this mission was more modern thanthe other. Nearly all the Jesuit Missions bore the name of St. Ignatius, in honor of their founder, as those of the Franciscans borethe name of St. Francis. Ignatius Loyola and Francis Xavier were thefounders of these sects. 

CHAPTER IV. 

 La Salle's visit to Mackinaw -- English traders -- La Hontan's visit -- Mackinaw an English fort -- Speech of a Chippewa Chief -- Indian stratagem -- Massacre of the English at the fort -- Escape of Mr. Alexander Henry -- Early white settlement of Mackinaw -- Present description -- Relations of the Jesuits -- Remarkable phenomena -- Parhelia -- Subterranean river. 

In the summer of 1679 the Griffin, built by La Salle and his companyon the shore of Lake Erie, at the present site of the town of Erie, passed up the St. Clair, sailed over the Huron, and entering theStraits, found a safe harbor at Old Mackinaw. La Salle's expeditionpassed eight or nine years at this place, and from hence theypenetrated the country in all directions. At the same time itcontinued to be the summer resort of numerous Indian tribes who camehere to trade and engage in the wild sports and recreations peculiarto the savage race. As a city of peace, it was regarded in the samelight that the ancient Hebrews regarded their cities of Refuge, andamong those who congregated here all animosities were forgotten. Thesmoke of the calumet of peace always ascended, and the war cry neveras yet has been heard in its streets. 

In Heriot's Travels, published in 1807, we find the followinginteresting item:

'In 1671 Father Marquette came hither with a party of Hurons, whom heprevailed on to form a settlement. A fort was constructed, and itafterward became an important spot. It was the place of generalassemblage for all the French who went to traffic with the distantnations. It was the asylum of all savages who came to exchange theirfurs for merchandise. When individuals belonging to tribes at war witheach other came thither, and met on commercial adventure, theiranimosities were suspended. '

Notwithstanding San-ge-man and his warriors had braved the dangers ofthe Straits and had slain a hundred of their enemies whose residencewas here, yet it was not in the town that they were slain. No bloodwas ever shed by Indian hands within its precincts up to this period, and had it remained in possession of the French the terrible scenessubsequently enacted within its streets would in all probabilitynever have occurred, and Old Mackinaw would have been a city ofRefuge to this day. 

The English, excited by the emoluments derived from the fur trade, desired to secure a share in this lucrative traffic of thenorthwestern Lakes. They, accordingly, in the year 1686, fitted out anexpedition, and through the interposition of the Fox Indians, whosefriendship they secured by valuable presents; the expedition reachedOld Mackinaw, the "Queen of the Lakes, " and found the El Dorado theyhad so long desired. 

The following interesting description, from Parkman's "History of theConspiracy of Pontiac, " of a voyage by an English merchant to OldMackinaw about this time, will be in place here: "Passing the fort andsettlement of Detroit, he soon enters Lake St. Clair, which seems likea broad basin filled to overflowing, while along its far distant vergea faint line of forests separates the water from the sky. He crossesthe lake, and his voyagers next urge his canoe against the current ofthe great river above. At length Lake Huron opens before him, stretching its liquid expanse like an ocean to the furthest horizon. His canoe skirts the eastern shore of Michigan, where the forest riseslike a wall from the water's edge, and as he advances onward, anendless line of stiff and shaggy fir trees hung with long mosses, fringe the shore with an aspect of desolation. Passing on his rightthe extensive Island of Bois Blanc, he sees nearly in front thebeautiful Island of Mackinaw rising with its white cliffs and greenfoliage from the broad breast of waters. He does not steer toward it, for at that day the Indians were its only tenants, but keeps along themain shore to the left, while his voyagers raise their song andchorus. Doubling a point he sees before him the red flag of Englandswelling lazily in the wind, and the palisades and wooden bastions ofFort Mackinaw standing close upon the margin of the lake. On the beachcanoes are drawn up, and Canadians and Indians are idly lounging. Alittle beyond the fort is a cluster of white Canadian houses roofedwith bark and protected by fences of strong round pickets. The traderenters the gate and sees before him an extensive square area, surrounded by high palisades. Numerous houses, barracks, and otherbuildings form a smaller square within, and in the vacant place whichthey enclose appear the red uniforms of British soldiers, the greycoats of the Canadians, and the gaudy Indian blankets mingled inpicturesque confusion, while a multitude of squaws with children ofevery hue stroll restlessly about the place. Such was old fortMackinaw in 1763. "

La Hontan, who visited Mackinaw in 1688, says: "It is a place of greatimportance. It is not above half a league distant from the Illinese(Michigan) Lake. Here the Hurons and Ottawas have each of them avillage, the one being severed from the other by a single palisade, but the Ottawas are beginning to build a fort upon a hill that standsbut one thousand or twelve hundred paces off. In this place theJesuits have a little house or college adjoining to a church, andinclosed with pales that separate it from the village of the Hurons. The Courriers de Bois have but a very small settlement here, at thesame time it is not inconsiderable, as being the staple of all thegoods that they truck with the south and west savages; for they cannotavoid passing this way when they go to the seats of the Illinese andthe Oumamis on to the Bay des Puanto, and to the River Mississippi. Missilimackinac is situated very advantageously, for the Iroquese darenot venture with their sorry canoes to cross the stright of theIllinese Lake, which is two leagues over; besides that the Lake of theHurons is too rough for such slender boats, and as they cannot come toit by water, so they cannot approach it by land by reason of themarshes, fens, and little rivers which it would be very difficult tocross, not to mention that the stright of the Illinese Lake lies stillin their way. "

As rivals of the French, the English were never regarded with favor bythe various Indian tribes. Constant encroachments by the English fromyear to year, though they were lavish of their gifts did not tend tosoften the hostility of the tribes. Thus matters continued untilMackinaw passed into the hands of the English, which event took placeafter the fall of Quebec in the year 1759. This transfer ofjurisdiction from a people that the Indians loved to one that theyexperienced a growing hate for during three-quarters of a century, filled them with a spirit of revenge. Such was the dislike of theIndians of Mackinaw to the English, that when Alexander Henry visitedthat place in 1761, he was obliged to conceal the fact that he was anEnglishman and disguise himself as a Canadian voyager. On the way hewas frequently warned by the Indians to turn back, as he would not bereceived at Mackinaw, and as there were no British soldiers there asyet, he was assured that his visit would be attend with great hazard. He still persisted, however, and finally, with his canoes laden withgoods he reached the fort, which, we have before remarked, wassurrounded with palisades, and occupied the high ground immediatelyback from the beach. When he entered the village he met with a coldreception, and the inhabitants did all in their power to alarm anddiscourage him. 

Soon after his arrival he received the very unpleasant intelligence, that a large number of Chippewas were coming from the neighboringvillages in their canoes to call upon him. Under ordinarycircumstances this information would not have excited any alarm, butas the French of Mackinaw as well as the Indians were alike hostile tothe English trader, it was no difficult matter to apprehend danger. Atlength the Indians, about sixty in number, arrived, each with atomahawk in one hand and a scalping knife in the other. The garrisonat this time contained about ninety soldiers, a commander and twoofficers. Beside the small arms, on the bastions were mounted twosmall pieces of brass cannon. Beside Henry, there were four Englishmerchants at the fort. After the Indians were introduced to Henry andhis English brethren, their chief presented him with a few strings ofwampum and addressed them as follows:

"Englishmen, it is to you that I speak, and I demand your attention. You know that the French King is our father. He promised to be such, and we in turn promised to be his children. This promise we have kept. It is you that have made war with this our father. You are his enemy, and how then could you have the boldness to venture among us, hischildren. You know that his enemies are ours. We are informed that ourfather, the King of France, is old and infirm, and that being fatiguedwith making war upon your nation, he has fallen asleep. During thissleep you have taken advantage of him and possessed yourselves ofCanada. But his nap is almost at an end. I think I hear him alreadystirring and inquiring for his children, and when he does awake whatmust become of you? He will utterly destroy you. Although you haveconquered the French you have not conquered us. We are not yourslaves. These lakes, these woods and mountains are left to us by ourancestors, they are our inheritance and we will part with them tonone. Your nation supposes that we, like the white people, cannot livewithout bread, and pork, and beef, but you ought to know that He, theGreat Spirit and Master of Life, has provided food for us in thesespacious lakes and on these woody mountains. 

"Our father, the King of France, employed our young men to make warupon your nation. In this warfare many of them have been killed, andit is our custom to retaliate until such time as the spirits of theslain are satisfied. But the spirits of the slain are to be satisfiedin one of two ways; the first is by the spilling the blood of thenation by which they fell, the other by covering the bodies of thedead, and thus allaying the resentment of their relations. This isdone by making presents. Your king has never sent us any presents, norentered into any treaty with us, wherefore he and we are still at war, and until he does these things we must consider that we have no otherfather or friend among the white men than the King of France. But foryou, we have taken into consideration that you have ventured among usin the expectation that we would not molest you. You do not comearound with the intention to make war. You come in peace to trade withus, and supply us with necessaries, of which we are in much need. Weshall regard you, therefore, as a brother, and you may sleeptranquilly without fear of the Chippewas. As a token of friendship wepresent you with this pipe to smoke. "

Henry was afterwards visited by a party of two hundred Ottawa warriorsfrom _L'Arbre Croche_, about seventy miles southwest of Mackinaw. Oneof the Chiefs addressed him thus:--

"Englishmen: We, the Ottawas, were some time since informed of yourarrival in this country, and of your having brought with you the goodswe so much need. At this news we were greatly pleased, believing that, through your assistance, our wives and children would be able to passanother winter; but, what was our surprise, when a few days ago wewere informed the goods which we had expected were intended for uswere on the eve of departure for distant countries, some of which areinhabited by our enemies. These accounts being spread, our wives andchildren came to us crying, and desiring that we should go to the Fortto learn with our ears the truth or falsehood. We accordinglyembarked, almost naked as you see, and on our arrival here we haveinquired into the accounts, and found them true. We see your canoesready to depart, and find your men engaged for the Mississippi andother distant regions. Under these circumstances we have consideredthe affair, and you are now sent for that you may hear ourdetermination, which is, that you shall give each of our men, youngand old, merchandise and ammunition to the amount of fifty beaverskins on credit, and for which I have no doubt of their paying you inthe summer, on their return from their wintering. "

The demands of the Indians upon the English, and their dissatisfactionarising therefrom, had the effect to rouse the different tribes, andthey were noticed assembling from the surrounding country in greatnumbers, and gathering in the vicinity of Mackinaw. One night fourhundred Indians lay around the Fort, evidently plotting mischief. AChippewa chief apprised Henry of the impending danger; but when thesuspicions were communicated to the Commandant of the Fort, MajorEtherington, he took no notice of it, supposing that the Indians onlyresorted to this for the purpose of intimidation. The next day beingthe King's birthday, the Indians proposed to celebrate it by a game of_baggatiway_. It was played with bat and ball, and the contestantswere the Chippewas and Sacs. Major Etherington was present at thegame, and bet largely on the side of the Chippewas. In the midst ofthe game, when all were in a high state of excitement, a warriorstruck the ball and sent it whizzing over the palisade into the Fort. Instantly the Indian war yell was heard, and the savages rushed withinthe gate, not however for the ball, but to tomahawk and scalp everyEnglishman within the Fort. The French stood by as silent spectatorsof the bloody scene, and were not attacked. 

Henry witnessed the dreadful slaughter from his window, and beingunarmed he hastened out, and springing over a low fence which dividedhis house from that of M. Langlade, the French Interpreter, enteredthe latter, and requested some one to direct him to a place of safety. Langlade hearing the request, replied that he could do nothing forhim. At that moment a slave belonging to Langlade, of the Pawnee tribeof Indians, took him to a door which she opened, and informed him thatit led to the garret where he might conceal himself. She then lockedthe door and took away the key. Through a hole in the wall Henry couldhave a complete view of the Fort. He beheld the heaps of the slain, and heard the savage yells, until the last victim was dispatched. Having finished the work of death in the Fort, the Indians went out tosearch the houses. Some Indians entered Langlade's house and asked ifthere were any Englishmen concealed in it. He replied that he did notknow, they might search for themselves. At length they opened thegarret door and ascended the stairs, but Henry had concealed himselfamong a heap of birch-bark vessels, which had been used in makingmaple sugar, and thus escaped. Fatigued and exhausted, he lay down ona mat and went to sleep, and while in this condition he was surprisedby the wife of Langlade, who remarked that the Indians had killed allthe English, but she hoped he might escape. Fearing, however, that shewould fall a prey to their vengeance if it was found that anEnglishman was concealed in her house, she at length revealed theplace of Henry's concealment, giving as a reason therefor, that if heshould be found her children would be destroyed. Unlocking the door, she was followed by several Indians, who were led by Wenniway, a notedchief. At sight of him the chief seized him with one hand, andbrandishing a large carving knife, was about to plunge it into hisheart, when he dropped his arm, saying, "I won't kill you. My brother, Musinigon, was slain by the English, and you shall take his place andbe called after him. " He was carried to L'Arbre Croche as a prisoner, where he was rescued by a band of three hundred Ottawas, by whom hewas returned to Mackinaw, and finally ransomed by his Indian friendWawatam. At the capture of the place only one trader, M. Tracy, losthis life. Captain Etherington was carried away by some Indians fromthe scene of slaughter. Seventy of the English troops were slain. AnEnglishman, by the name of Solomon, saved himself by hiding under aheap of corn, and his boy was saved by creeping up a chimney, where heremained two days. A number of canoes, filled with English traders, arriving soon after the massacre, they were seized, and the traders, dragged through the water, were beaten and marched by the Indians tothe prison lodge. After they had completed the work of destruction, the Indians, about four hundred in number, entertaining apprehensionsthat they would be attacked by the English, and the Indians who hadjoined them, took refuge on the Island of Mackinac, Wawatam fearingthat Henry would be butchered by the savages in their drunken revels, took him out to a cave, where he lay concealed for one night on a heapof human bones. As the Fort was not destroyed, it was subsequentlyreoccupied by British soldiers, and the removal to the Island did nottake place until about the year 1780. 

Old Mackinaw, the theatre of so many thrilling scenes and tragicincidents, has a history as a white settlement, reaching back to 1620, the year of the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. W. M. Johnson, Esq. , of Mackinac Island, in describing its history, says: "MackinawCity, " for such has become the name of this wonderful point, "withits coasts and the islands before it, has been the theatre of some ofthe most exciting and interesting events in Indian history, previousto the arrival of the 'white man. ' It was the metropolis of a portionof the Ojibwa and Ottawa nations. It was there that their Congressesmet, to adopt a policy which terminated in the conquest of the countrysouth of it; it was there that the tramping feet of thousands ofplumed and painted warriors shook Pe-quod-e-nonge--the Indianname--while dancing their war dances, it was from thence that thestartling sound of the war yell of these thousands was wafted to theadjacent coast and islands, making the peaceful welkin ring with theirunearthly shouts of victory or death. 

"How remarkable, in reflecting upon the early and sound judgment ofthe Indians in seizing upon the points commanding all the naturalavenues and passes of the Lakes, when it is considered that thereselections must necessarily have been the result of an intimateknowledge with the geographical features of the country! This has beenyearly proved by the re-occupation of posts and places long neglected, but the importance of which has become evident in proportion as wehave set a just value upon the Indian's judgment, with the naturaladvantages of the country. Perhaps in no instance, is this morestrikingly exemplified than in Mackinaw City, the commanding positionof which, although always known to the Indians, Traders, andMissionaries, and lately confirmed by Military Scientific Europeans;_but as yet not perceived by our Government_. It is the only pointwhich can control the passage of the Straits of Mackinaw, and also theIndians living in numerous villages south of the Straits. The Islandof Mackinac was merely occupied by the English to escape a secondmassacre as in 1763; and which occupancy our Government has blindlyfollowed, believing it, as an evidence of English military skill andjudgment in the selection of commanding posts, while they at thatperiod did not make this selection with any reference to a futurehostile maritime power who might wish to pass, or force a passagethrough the Straits. 

[Illustration: Sugar Loaf--Mackinac. ]

[Illustration: Mackinac Island. 1. Lover's Leap. 2. Harbor. 3. Village. 4. Fort. 5. Signal. 6. Sugar Loaf. 7. Mission. 8. Robinson'sFolly. ]

"The land rises gradually from the water at Mackinaw City, until itreaches an elevation of seventy-five feet, from which beautiful andpicturesque views are obtained of the waters of the Straits, with thenumerous Islands sleeping on its bosom. The prospect from the City isbeautiful, beyond description--the Battery at New York can only becompared to it, which is like it in its location. The visitor willenjoy the view presented of the Islands, Points, and adjacent shores;especially on a calm day, for the lake, and the green woods upon isleand promontory, lie with a sleepy stillness before him, enhancing thebeauty of the prospect; and when the mind contemplates the events oftwo hundred and fifty years ago, when thousands of the red sons of theforest passed and repassed the site upon which he now stands, he willappreciate more fully the rapid strides of civilization. 

"Two hundred and fifty years ago, bark canoes only dotted the surfaceof the Lake; this spell of quiet was then broken a few years afterwardby the boisterous Canadian _Voyageur_ with his songs, as he rowed orpaddled his _bateaux_ and large northwest canoe. Now, the roaringnoise of the wheels of steamers, the shrill whistle of the propeller, and the whitening sails of hundreds of vessels have succeeded to thepast age of darkness and quiet. Civilization and commerce have brokenthe charm which beautified Indian scenery in years forever gone by. "

A work, published under the auspices of the Canadian Government, inthree large octavo volumes, French, entitled "Relations of theJesuits, " containing the most remarkable events that transpired inthe missions of the Jesuits in New France, furnishes valuableinformation of the missions in the Mackinaw region. Among theremarkable phenomena which came under the observation of the JesuitFathers in Mackinaw, was the appearance of a parhelion on the 21st ofJanuary, 1671. This remarkable phenomenon occurred about two hoursbefore sunset. It presented the form of a great crescent with itspoints turned toward the sun. At the same time two other sunsappeared, equidistant from it, partly covered by a cloud having allthe colors of the rainbow, very luminous and dazzling to the eye. TheIndians said it was a premonition of great cold, which followed soonafter. On the 16th March the same parhelion appeared, and was seenfrom three different places more than fifty leagues apart. Theobserver at the Mackinaw mission saw three suns distant some halfleague from each other. They were seen twice the same day, one hourbefore sunrise and one hour before sunset. In the morning they were onthe south side of the true sun, and in the evening on the west side. That on the south side was so accurate that it was difficult todistinguish it from the true sun, excepting that it was partlysurrounded by a scarlet band on the side toward the sun. That on theother side had more the appearance of an oval iris than a sun, nevertheless it was an image like those which painters adorn withgolden rays, giving it a very magnificent appearance. 

The same parhelion was seen on the island of Manitou in Lake Huron, and accompanied by a very remarkable appearance. Three suns appearedin the west, parallel with the earth. They were equal in size, but notin beauty. The true sun was west-by-southwest, and the false sun oneach side. At the same time were seen parts of two circles parallel tothe horizon, having the colors of the rainbow, beside a fourth part ofthe circle perpendicular to the horizon, having nearly the same color, touched the false sun, which was in the southwest, and cutting thehalf circle parallel to the horizon, was mingled and lost in its rays. The false suns disappeared from time to time, and even the true sun. Finally, a fourth sun was seen placed in a right line. When the falsesuns disappeared they left after them two rainbows, as beautiful astheir own light. The Indians, who attributed all these signs to theGenii, and who believe that they are married, wanted to know of themissionary if these were not the wives of the sun. At this question itoccurred to him that a favorable opportunity was presented forexplaining to them the mysteries of the Trinity. On the next day theIndian women, who before would not come to hear prayers, came andpresented their children to be baptized. 

At the Saut St. Mary, seven false suns appeared around the true sun. The true sun was in the centre of a circle formed by the colors of therainbow. On either side were two false suns, and also one above andone below. These four were placed on the circumference of the circle, and at equal distances directly opposite from each other. Beside this, another circle of the same color as the first, but much larger, restedthe upper part of its circumference in the centre of the true sun, while below and on either side were the false suns. All these eightluminaries made a grand spectacle. 

Auroras, even in midsummer, are of frequent occurrence, and exhibit abrilliancy and extent rarely observed in lower latitudes. Thephenomena which most frequently occur are the following: A dark cloudtinged on the upper edge with a pale luminous haze, skirts thenorthern horizon. From this streaks of orange and blue colored lightflash up, and often reach a point south of the zenith. They rapidlyincrease and decrease, giving to the whole hemisphere the appearanceof luminous waves and occasionally forming perfect corona. Theycommence shortly after sunset and continue during the night. Thevoyagers regard them as the precursors of storms and gales, and ourown observations have confirmed the result. Occasionally broad beltsof light are seen spanning the whole arc of the heavens, of sufficientbrilliancy to enable one to read. In the winter these phenomena aremuch more frequent, and the ground appears tinged with a crimson hue. 

We find in these relations of the Jesuits other matters of equalinterest. The fathers of the missions in and around the Straits ofMackinaw gave it as their opinion, that the waters of Lake Superiorentered into the Straits by a subterranean passage, and in support ofit, mention the wonderful fact that the current floats against thewind, and notwithstanding it drives furiously in one direction, vessels are enabled to sail in a contrary direction as rapidly asthough the wind were not blowing. In addition to this, they refer tothe constant boiling up of the waters. Without admitting this theory, they affirmed that it was impossible to explain two things. The firstis, that without such subterranean passage it is impossible to tellwhat becomes of the waters of Lake Superior. This vast lake has butone visible outlet, namely, the river of the Saut, while it receivesinto its bosom the waters of a large number of rivers, some twelve ofwhich are of greater dimensions than the Saut. What then, they ask, becomes of all these waters if they do not find an issue through asubterranean river. The second reason for their belief in this theoryis the impossibility to explain from whence come the waters of LakeHuron and Lake Michigan? But very few rivers flow into these lakes, and their size is such as to justify the belief that they must besupplied through the subterranean river entering into the Straits. 

CHAPTER V. 

 Island of the Giant Fairies -- Possession by the English -- Erection of Government house -- French remain at Old Mackinaw -- Finally abandoned -- Extent of the Island -- History -- Description -- Natural curiosities -- Arch Rock -- Sugar Loaf Rock -- Scull Rock -- Dousman's Farm -- Davenport's Farm -- Robinson's Folly -- The Devil's Punch Bowl -- Healthful atmosphere -- Transparency of the waters -- Compared with Saratoga, Cape May, and Mt. Washington as a point for health and recreation -- Description of a traveler in 1854 -- Arrival of steamers and sailing vessels at the port during the year -- Mr. Johnson's reminiscences -- Indian name of Island -- Mythology -- Three brothers of the great Genii -- Visit to the subterranean abode of the Genii -- Vision -- Apostrophe of an old Indian Chief -- Old buildings -- Door of Marquette's Chapel -- John Jacob Astor and the fur trade -- Present support of the place -- Fort Mackinaw -- Fort Holmes -- Fine view -- Interesting localities -- War of 1812 -- Death of Major Holmes -- Soil of the Island. 

The old fort having been deserted by the English, as we have noticedin a previous chapter, and they having fled to the Island of Mackinaw, which, in the Indian name, signifies Island of the giant fairies, preparations were made for a settlement. Sir Wm. Johnston called agrand council with those Indians who had been engaged in the massacreat Old Mackinaw. By this council, which was held in 1764, the springfollowing the siege, a way was opened for St. Clair to negotiate forthe island, and also for the grants previously made by the Indians tothe French for military purposes. The first thing done after theisland had been obtained was the erection of a government house. TheFrench and others who still remained at Old Mackinaw, amounting onlyto about three hundred, continued a few years, when they finally left, and everything was suffered to go into decay. A desolation reignedover it for many years, and, on account of the bloody siege, thatpoint, which was the most attractive as well as the most important toIndians, French, and English in all the Lake region was, as if bycommon consent, abandoned. 

[Illustration: Arch Rock. ]

[Illustration: Rock Castle--Pictured Rocks. ]

The "New Mackinaw, " as it is called, distant seven miles from the Old, is on an island about nine miles in circumference, and covers an areaof six thousand acres. Its extreme elevation above the lake is aboutthree hundred and twelve feet. The village and fortress are situatedon the southeastern extremity of the island, where there is a goodharbor protected by a water battery. The island remained in possessionof the British until 1793, when it was surrendered to the UnitedStates. It was retaken in 1812, but restored again by the treaty ofGhent, in 1814. It is situated in North lat. 45° 54', West lon. 84°30' from Greenwich, being 7° 30' west from Washington. It is threehundred and fifty miles north of Chicago and about three hundred milesnorth from Detroit, and about two hundred and fifty miles west ofCollingswood, Canada. The fort stands on an elevated ground about twohundred feet above the water. The town contains at present threehotels, six boarding houses, eight dry-goods stores, and sevengroceries. Its public buildings are a Court House, Jail, Custom House, Post Office, and Express Office. There are two Churches, the RomanCatholic and Presbyterian. 

The first thing we shall notice as a natural attraction on the island, is what is called "The Arch Rock. " This is a natural arch projectingfrom the precipice on the northeastern side of the island, about amile from the fort, and elevated about one hundred and forty feetabove the level of the water. Its abutments are formed of calcareousrock, and have been produced by the falling down of great masses ofrock, leaving a chasm of eighty or ninety feet in height, and coveredby the arch which spans it of fifty or sixty feet sweep. The scenepresented by cliff and chasm is one of wild grandeur. Like the NaturalBridge of Virginia, it possesses an attraction to all fond of naturalcuriosities, sufficient of itself to justify a visit to the northernlakes. The view from the beach is particularly grand. Before you is amagnificent arch suspended in mid air. Indian tradition says that thiswonderful arch was formed by the giant spirits who inhabited thisisland. Geological tradition, however, indicates that it was formed bythe action of the waters, which were at a remote period much higherthan at the present time. 

The next object which strikes the attention of the visitors is the"Sugar Loaf Rock, " a high, isolated, conical rock which, resting uponthe elevated plateau that forms the next highest point of the islandfrom that of Fort Holmes, exhibits a rise of some sixty to eightyfeet. This is but little less than the elevation of the ridge whichforms the crowning plan of the island, and upon which the dismantledpost of Fort Holmes is seen, being separated therefrom by a distancenot exceeding one hundred and fifty yards. By what violent throe ofnature it has become severed from the adjacent ridge, of which it nodoubt, formed a part, is matter of curious inquiry. Has nature donethis by gradual recession, or by the slow upheaval of the land? Oninspection, this rock is found cavernous, slightly crystalline, withits strata distorted in every conceivable direction. In its crevicesgrow a few cedars and vines. As the visitor approaches it by the roadside its effect is grand and imposing; still more so, perhaps, whenbeheld from the top of the ridge, where its isolated position with itsbold form, breaking the outline of the island, strikes the beholderwith wonder and admiration. 

Robinson's Folly is a high bluff, northeast from the village ofMackinaw, half a mile from the mission house. Soon after thesettlement of the modern Mackinaw, Capt. Robinson, of the Englisharmy, then commanding this port, had a summer house built on the browof this bluff, now called Robinson's Folly, for the purpose ofenjoying the prospect from that cool and elevated spot. Often he andhis brother officers resorted there during the summer days, to whileaway lonely and tedious hours. Pipes, cigars, and wine, were broughtinto requisition. No Englishman at that period was without them; infact, no hospitality or entertainment was complete without them. Theywere indeed isolated; the nearest white settlements being thenDetroit, Green Bay, Saut St. Mary, and Chicago. Communications withthese places were not frequent. 

A few years after, from the action of the elements, the brow of thebluff, where Robinson's Folly stood, was precipitated to the base ofthe rock, where the fragments can now be seen, which disastrous eventgave rise to its name. 

The "Scull Rock, " half a mile or three quarters northwest from therear of Fort Mackinaw, is chiefly noted for a cavern, which appears tohave been a receptacle for human bones, many of which were still to beobserved about its mouth a few years ago. The entrance is low andnarrow, and seems to promise little to reward the labors ofexploration. It is here probably that Alexander Henry was secreted bythe chief Wawatam after the horrid massacre of the British garrison atOld Mackinaw. 

Chimney Rock well repays the trouble of a visit, with the other pointsof interest on the island. 

Dousman's Farm, two miles west from the Village of Mackinaw, consistsof a section of land; the road to the English or British landingpasses through it, also to Scott's or Flinn's Cave, which is on thenorthwestern portion of the farm. There are three springs of colddelicious water on this farm, two of them are shaded by beech andmaple trees. This farm yields yearly from eighty to one hundred tonsof hay, besides a large quantity of potatoes and other farm produce. 

Davenport's Farm, about one and a half miles from the village, issituated on the southwestern portion of the Island. At the base of thebluff, on the south part of this farm, is the Devil's Caves, and nearthem is a beautiful spring of clear cold water, shaded by evergreensand other trees. Half way up the bluff, which is nearly, if not fully, three hundred feet high at this point; stands out, detached from thelimestone, an isolated rock, in appearance similar to the Sugar LoafRock, which some persons have called the Lover's Leap; it is worth thetrouble of a visit, which a few minutes walk from the villageaccomplishes. There are several points called Lover's Leap, so calledby romantic visitors, within the last few years. A gentleman fromChicago, has purchased this farm, and report says that severalsummer-houses are to be built upon it, which will enhance the beautyof this locality. 

Wm. M. Johnston Esq. , furnishes the following tradition of Lover'sLeap:

"The huge rock called the 'Lover's Leap' is situated about one milewest of the village of Mackinaw. It is a high perpendicular bluff, onehundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, rising boldly fromthe shore of the lake. A solitary pine tree formerly stood upon itsbrow, which some Vandal has cut down. 

"Long before the pale faces profaned this island home of the Genii, ayoung Ojibwa girl, just maturing into womanhood, often wandered there, and gazed from its dizzy heights and witnessed the receding canoes ofthe large war parties of the combined bands of the Ojibwas and Ottawasspeeding south, seeking for fame and scalps. 

"It was there she often sat, mused and hummed the songs Ge-niw-e-gwonloved; this spot was endeared to her, for it was there that she andGe-niw-e-gwon first met and exchanged words of love, and found anaffinity of souls existing between them. It was there she often satand sang the Ojibwa love song--

 'Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode, A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode. '

I give but one verse, which may be translated as follows:

 A loon, I thought was looming, A loon, I thought was looming: Why! it is he, my lover, Why! it is he, my lover; His paddle, in the waters gleaming, His paddle in the waters gleaming. 

"From this bluff she often watched and listened for the return of thewar parties, for amongst them she knew was Ge-niw-e-gwon; his headdecorated with war-eagle plumes, which none but a brave could sport. The west wind often wafted far in advance the shouts of victory anddeath, as they shouted and sang upon leaving Pe-quod-e-nong (OldMackinaw), to make the traverse to the Spirit, or Fairiy Island. 

"One season, when the war party returned, she could not distinguishhis familiar and loving war shout. Her spirit, told her that he hadgone to the Spirit-Land of the west. It was so: an enemy's arrow hadpierced his breast, and after his body was placed leaning against atree, his face fronting his enemies, he died; but ere he died hewished the mourning warriors to remember him to the sweet maid of hisheart. Thus he died far away from home and the friends he loved. 

"Me-she-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua's heart hushed its beatings, and all thewarm emotions of that heart, were chilled and dead. The moving, livingspirit of her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, she witnessed continuallybeckoning her to follow him to the happy hunting grounds of spirits inthe west--he appeared to her in human shape, but was invisible toothers of his tribe. 

"One morning her body was found mangled at the foot of the bluff. Thesoul had thrown aside its covering of earth, and had gone to join thespirit of her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, to travel together to the land ofspirits. "

Another point of interest and curiosity is the Devil's Punch Bowl, situated south from the gateway, as you enter the farm of the late J. Dousman, Esq. 

This Island which rises like a gem on the brow of the lakes, isfavored by the clearest and most healthful atmosphere, and washed bythe purest and most transparent water in the world, imparting the mostpleasurable sensations imaginable. When this enchanting region shallbecome fully known, Saratoga, Cape May, and Mount Washington will beforgotten by those who fly from the heat and dust of our inlandcities, to breathe a pure air and drink health-giving waters. 

A traveler in 1854, thus describes this interesting locality, "Everything on the island is a curiosity, the roads or streets thatwind around the harbor or among the grove-like forests of the island, are naturally pebbled and macadamized, the buildings are of everystyle, from an Indian lodge to an English house, the island is coveredwith charming natural scenery, from the beautiful to the grand, andone may spend weeks constantly finding new objects of interest, andnew scenes of beauty. The steamers all call here on their way to andfrom Chicago, and hundreds of small sail vessels in the fishing tradehave here their head quarters. Drawn upon the pebbled beach, orgliding about the bay, are bark canoes, and the far-famed Mackinawboats, without number. These last are the perfection of light sailboats, and I have often been astonished at seeing them far out in thelake, beating up against winds that were next to gales. "

We are indebted to Mr. Johnston for the following official list, giving the number of sail vessels and steamers that have passedthrough the Straits of Mackinaw during the _day time_, as reported tothe Revenue department, for six months, ending September 30th, 1859. 

 Barques. Brigs. Schr's. Steamers. April, 14 9 101 47 May, 9 11 177 82 June, 15 13 221 194 Next 3 mon's 98 61 764 353 --- --- --- --- 136 94 1263 586

 Total, 2079. 

It would be a pretty correct estimate to add at least one-third moreof the total number for those that passed during the night, --whichwould be a very low estimate of the shipping passing through ourstraits. 

But few of the vessels passing through the straits leave the mainchannel, and go to the island some miles out of the way. 

The lake traffic has of late years become perfectly enormous, theincrease of the western navigation being unprecedented. For example, three thousand and sixty-five steamers passed up from Lake Erie toLakes Huron and Superior, by Detroit, in 1859, and three thousand onehundred and twenty-one passed down. The greatest number up in a singleday was eighty-five--down seventy-three. Detroit statistics show thatfive steamers, five propellers, four barques, seven brigs, andeighty-five schooners have been more or less engaged in the LakeSuperior trade during the past season. Forty vessels left during theseason for European and seaboard ports, some of which have returned, and one has taken her second departure. Navigation at Detroit openedMarch 14th, and closed December 15th. 

William Johnston, Esq. , who has long resided on the island, says: 'TheIndians, from the earliest times, have always regarded the Island ofMackinaw with veneration. The Indian name is 'Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge, 'which, as before stated, signifies Island of Great or Giant Fairies. 

"Indian mythology relates that three brothers of great or giantFairies, occupied different Islands in this section of the country. The eldest occupied the Island Missilimackinac, the second lived onthe Island Tim-au Rin-ange-onge, in Lake Michigan, now calledPottawattime Island, the youngest inhabited an Island calledPe-quoge-me-nis, in Lake Huron. The heathen Indians, to this day, lookupon them with awe and veneration, and in passing to and fro, by theirshores, still offer to the Great Spirits tobacco and other offerings, to propitiate their goodwill. The stories they relate of these GreatFairies, are very interesting and worthy of record. 

"The present southern gate of Fort Mackinac overlooks the spot, wherein olden times a door existed, to the entrance of the subterraneousabode of these Giant Fairies. An Indian Chees-a-kee, or spiritualist, who once encamped within the limits of the present garrison, related, that some time during the night, after he had fallen asleep, a fairytouched him and beckoned him to follow. He obeyed and his spirit wentwith the fairy; they entered the subterraneous abode, through anopening beneath the present gate near the base of the hill. He therewitnessed the giant spirits in solemn conclave in what appeared to bea large beautiful wigwam. After being there some time, lost in wonderand admiration, the chief spirit directed one of the lesser ones, toshow the Indian spirit out and conduct him back to his body. ThisIndian could never be induced to divulge the particulars of what hewitnessed in his mysterious visit. 

"An old Indian chief upon leaving this island, to visit his friends inLake Superior, thus soliloquized, as he sat on the deck of McKnight'ssplendid steamer, the Illinois, while the darkness began dimly toshadow forth the deep blue outlines of the island:

"'Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge, thou Isle of the clear, deep-waterLake, how, soothing it is from amidst the curling smoke of my opawgun(pipe), to trace thy deep blue outlines in the distance; to call frommemory's tablets the traditions and stories connected with thy sacredand mystic character, how sacred the regard, with which thou hast beenonce clothed by our Indian seers of gone-by days; how pleasant inimagination for the mind to picture and view, as if now present, thetime when the Great Spirit allowed a peaceful stillness to dwellaround thee, when only light and balmy winds were permitted to passover thee, hardly ruffling the mirror surface of the waters thatsurrounded thee. Nothing then disturbed thy quiet and deep solitude, but the chippering of birds, and the rustling of the leaves of thesilver-barked birch; or to hear, by evening twilight the sound of thegiant Fairies as they with rapid step, and giddy whirl, dance theirmystic dance on thy lime-stone battlements. '

"Several old buildings are now standing, the frames of which werebrought from old Mackinaw in the year 1764, which gives an odd andvenerable appearance to the village. Mr. Schoolcraft had the door ofMarquette's Chapel pointed out to him, which had been brought overfrom Mackinaw, and hung to one of the edifices of the town. 

"The village formerly received its greatest support from the furtrade, when in the hands of the late John Jacob Astor, Esq. , being, atthat time, the outfitting and furnishing place for the Indian trade. His outfits extended then to the head waters of the Mississippi, onthe northwest, south to Chicago, southwest by the way of Green Bay, tothe Mississippi, and Missouri Rivers, in fact his business was carriedon throughout all the then northwest Indian country. This trade becameextinct in 1834, when Mr. Astor sold out to Ramsey Crooks, Esq. , ofNew York, and others, but it lacked the energy and controllinginfluence which had been characteristic of Mr. Astor's business, andafter languishing a few years, the new company became involved andtheir outposts were discontinued. 

"The place since then has been mostly supported from the fisheries, which are excellent and extensive. It is estimated that twentythousand barrels of white fish and trout are exported from thiscountry alone annually, estimated worth, at this point, about onehundred and fifty thousand dollars. A material support is also derivedfrom the immense amount of trade. 

"The population is fluctuating, owing to the influx of strangersseeking health, traders, and Indians; but the permanent inhabitants ofthe village are about one thousand and fourteen, as per census of1854. 

"Fort Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence immediately above the town, and is at present garrisoned by a company of United States troops: achaplain (Episcopalian) is attached to the garrison, and services areheld there every Sabbath. Fort Holmes occupies the highest bluff ofthe island, and is not at present occupied: this fortress was erectedby the English, while they held possession of the island, during thelast war, and by them named Fort George. But after the surrender ofthe island in 1814, the name was altered in compliment to the memoryof Major Holmes of the United States Army, who fell in the unfortunateattack upon the island by Col. Croghan. The gallant Holmes was killeda little below the rise of ground, as you descend toward the Dousmanfarm-house, on your way to the British landing. On Fort Holmes is atriangular station for the government engineers, who have been at worksome years in the straits. 

"Visitors mounting the station on a still clear day, have a view ofthis island, the straits with its curves, islands and points, and theadjacent shores, which well repays them, especially on a calm day, forthe lake and green woods lie in stillness before them, taking the mindfor hundreds of years back, to the time when thousands of warriorsoccupied the prominent points brought within view. 

"Off to the northwest, some four or five miles, lies the mixedCanadian and Indian settlement of Point St. Ignace and Moran Bay, witha few farms, which give a more agreeable view to the otherwisesameness of wood and water. There the Indians, called theAu-se-gum-ugs, lived until driven away by the Ojibwas and Ottawas, asthey extended their conquests south and west. There also the Iroquoiswere permitted to locate and live before the French reached andsettled on the St. Lawrence, there some of the Iroquois were massacredand driven off by the Ojibwas and Ottawas. North of this can be seenthe outlines of the bluff called "Rabbit Sitting, " northeasterly theSt. Martin Islands, the entrance of the Chenoux, and the dividingridge between this and the Saut St. Mary. On the northeast can be seenthe Detour, and to the south, Bois Blanc Light-House, and theCheboy-e-gun; and on the west the Straits of Lake Michigan, withWaugoohance Point and Light-House. 

"To the northwest of the ridge, where the woods slope by a gradualdescent to the shores of the Island, is the place at which the Englishin the last war (1812), from six to eight hundred strong, composed ofa few English, Canadians, the majority being Indians, landed at night, and having secured Michael Dousman's cattle, at his farm adjoining thelanding, and succeeded during the night in reaching the hollow, whichmay be seen on the way from Fort Mackinac to Fort Holmes, a littlenorthwest of the present parade-ground, or nearly opposite thenorthwest rear gate of the present fort, with their cannon, which bydaylight, was placed in battery on the knoll south of the hollowbefore alluded to, which by its position completely commanded thewestern gate and the garrison itself, took their station. 

"At dawn the citizens of the village were roused, and told to flee toa place called the Distillery, west of the present village, as theEnglish troops were about to attack the American fort, and that theEnglish commanding officer had pledged his word for the safety of thelives of those citizens who would flee to the place designated. Thiswas the first intimation the citizens had of war being declaredbetween the United States and Great Britain. Soon a cannon shot wasfired over the fort, its booming being also the first intimation theAmerican garrison had of the country being in a state of war. AnEnglish officer appeared with a flag to summon the garrison tosurrender, stating the overwhelming force they had in command. TheAmerican garrison, being short of one full company of men, wassurrendered, and the few troops taken and sent to Detroit on parole. After this the English built and occupied Fort George, (now calledFort Holmes) between the years 1812 and 1814. The English governmentpaid ten thousand pounds as prize-money to the volunteers andsoldiers, and merchandise and arms to the Indians. In the year 1836 Iexamined the list or pay-roll for this prize-money; the names of allthose who participated in the taking of Fort Mackinac were thereenrolled, the money was divided according to rank, and each personreceipted for his individual share. 

"It is worth knowing, that by the treaty of Paris, of 1783, acknowledging the independence of the United States, and fixing itsboundaries, Fort Mackinac fell under the jurisdiction of the UnitedStates, and was surrendered, according to McKenzie, in 1794. In 1812it was taken, as before stated, by the English and their Indianallies. It resisted an attack from a strong detachment of the Americanarmy and navy in 1814, under Col. Croghan, and was finally restored tothe United States by the treaty of Ghent. 

"In 1814 Col. Croghan landed at the English Landing, under cover ofthe guns of the American vessels. The troops moved from the landing, and had reached Mr. M. Dousman's farm-house. The skirmishing withthe English and Indians had already commenced. East from the house isa ridge over which the road lay. On this ridge and back of it, also oneach side of the road, the English were posted in force. The gallantMajor Holmes, on reaching the clearing near the house, formed his menfor a charge upon the enemy posted on the ridge. To encourage histroops he led the charge. The English and Indians, seeing the strongforce, had commenced retreating, when an English sergeant thought hemight as well discharge the cannon before retreating with hiscomrades, so accordingly applied the match. At this instant, MajorHolmes was either killed by a grape shot, or by an accidental musketball. His death threw the Americans into a panic, and they immediatelycommenced a retreat, which ended in confusion. 

"When the fleet first appeared before the island, there was only onecompany of troops in the fort--had Col. Croghan then summoned it tosurrender, it would have been given up; but he sailed away, went andburnt the trading-houses at Old St. Joseph's Island, and from thencesent an expedition to the Saut St. Mary, under Major Holmes, whoburned the North West Fur Company Houses on the Canada side, andcarried away all the personal property of individuals on the Americanside. Thus ten or twenty days were lost. In the mean time, the Indianshad come to the defense of Fort Mackinac, and, on the secondappearance of Col. Croghan, they were prepared, and our troopsshamefully defeated. 

"This island, although the bluffs present the appearance of sterility, is covered with a strong soil, which is continually renovated by thespontaneous decomposition of calcareous rock. The common growth oftrees on the island are the sugar-maple, beech, birch, white andyellow pine, white and red spruce, balsam fir, white cedar, iron wood, and the poplar; the trees now seen are the second and third growth. Onthe northwestern part of Mr. Dousman's farm, a few of the oldpatriarchs of the forest are still standing. "

CHAPTER VI. 

 Lake Superior -- Scenery -- Transparency of its waters -- Climate -- Isle Royale -- Apostles' Islands -- La Point -- Thunder Cape -- Cariboo Point -- A wonderful lake -- Romantic scenery -- Pictured Rocks -- Rock Castle -- The Grand Portal -- The Chapel -- Fluctuations in the waters of Lake Superior -- Curious phenomena -- Retrocession of the waters -- Mirage -- Iron mountains and mines -- Description of -- Products -- Shipments -- Copper -- Immense boulders -- Produce of the mines for 1857 -- Shipment of copper from the Lake for 1858 -- Centre of the mining country -- Iron Mountains -- Copper mines of Great Britain -- Coal -- Mackinaw, a great manufacturing point -- Key to the Upper Lakes -- Commerce of Lakes -- Growth of cities. 

Lake Superior, though it possesses not all the vastness of the ocean, is yet equal in sublimity. In gazing upon its surface, whether spreadout like a vast mirror reflecting the varying tints of the sky, orruffled by gently curling waves, or lashed into fury by the tempest, one is impressed with the idea of the Infinite. It is known to be thelargest body of fresh water on the globe, being nearly four hundredmiles long from east to west, and one hundred and thirty wide. It isthe grand reservoir from whence proceed the waters of Michigan, Huron, and Erie. It gives birth to Niagara, the wonder of the world, fillsthe basin of Ontario, and rolls a mighty flood down the St. Lawrenceto the Atlantic. 

This lake lies in the bosom of a mountainous region, where the Indianyet reigns and roams in his wonted freedom. Except an occasionalpicketed fort or trading house, it is yet a perfect wilderness. Theentire country is rocky and covered with a stunted growth ofvegetation such as is usual in high latitudes. The waters of this lakeare marvelously clear, and, even at midsummer, are exceedingly cold. Mr. Charles Lanman, who has written a most admirable book, entitled"Summer in the Wilderness, " says, "In passing along its rocky shores, in my frail canoe, I have often been alarmed at the sight of a sunkenboulder, which I fancied must be near the top, and on furtherinvestigation have found myself to be upward of twenty feet from thedanger of a concussion. I have frequently lowered a white rag to thedepth of one hundred feet and been able to discern its every fold orstain. The color of the water near the shore is a deep green; but offsoundings it has all the dark blue of the ocean. "

Speaking of the climate, he says: "In midsummer it is beyond compare, the air is soft and bracing at the same time. A healthier region doesnot exist on the earth, an assertion corroborated by the fact, thatthe inhabitants usually live to an advanced age, notwithstanding themany hardships. The common diseases of mankind are here comparativelyunknown, and I have never seen an individual whose breast did notswell with a new emotion of delight as he inhaled the air of thisnorthern wilderness. "

The largest island in Lake Superior is Isle Royale. It is forty milesin length and from six to ten miles in width. Its hills reach analtitude of four hundred feet. During the winter season it is entirelyuninhabited, but in the summer it is frequently visited, particularlyby copper speculators. Near the western extremity of the lake are theApostles' Islands, which are detachments of a peninsula running out inthe same direction with Keweenaw, which is known as La Point. Thegroup consist of three islands, which rise like gems from the water. There is a dreamy summer about them which make them enticing as theHesperides of the ancients. 

The two most prominent peninsulas are Thunder Cape and Cariboo Point. Thunder Cape is about fourteen hundred feet high. It looms up againstthe sky in grandeur, and is a most romantic spot. Cariboo Point isless lofty and grand in its appearance, but is celebrated for itsunknown hieroglyphics painted upon its summits by a race which haslong since passed away. In the vicinity of the bluff are found themost beautiful agates in the world. 

In the northeastern part of the lake is an island situated abouttwenty miles from the Canadian shore, which has a wonderful lake inits centre, about one mile in length. It is as beautiful as it iswonderful. It is imbosomed in the fastnesses of perpendicular cliffs, which rise to a height of seven hundred feet. It has but one outletand is impassable even to a canoe. At the opening of this narrow chasmstands a column of solid rock which has a base of about one hundredfeet in diameter. The column rises, gradually tapering until itreaches a height of eight hundred feet. A solitary pine surmounts thesummit of this wonderful column. There it stands like the sentinel ofthis calm, deep lake, whose silence and solitude are rarely everbroken, and whose tranquil bosom has never been ruffled by theslightest breeze. 

[Illustration: Rock Chapel. ]

[Illustration: The Castles. ]

The scenery on the shores of Lake Superior is in some places of themost romantic character. About one hundred miles west of Saut St. Mary, a range of cliffs are to be seen, what has been called the"Pictured Rocks. " They are a series of sandstone bluffs extendingalong the shore of the lake for about five miles, and rising, in mostplaces vertically from the water, from fifty to two hundred feet inheight. These towering cliffs have been worn away by the action of thelake, which for centuries has dashed an ocean-like surf against theirbase. The surface of these rocks has been, in large portions, strangely colored by bands of brilliant hues, which present to the eyeof the voyager a singularly pleasing appearance. One of these cliffsresembles so much the turreted entrance and arched portal of some oldfeudal castle that it has been called "Rock Castle. " Beyond this isanother architectural curiosity, denominated "The Grand Portal, " whichconsists of an arched opening in the rocks. The cliff is composed of avast mass, of a rectilinear shape, projecting out into the lake sixhundred feet, and presenting a front of three hundred feet, and risingto a height of two hundred feet. An entrance has been excavated fromone side to the other, opening out into large vaulted passages whichcommunicate with the great dome, some three hundred feet from thefront of the cliff. The Grand Portal, which opens out on the lake, isof magnificent dimensions, being one hundred feet high, and onehundred and sixty-eight feet wide at the water level. The distancefrom the verge of the cliff, over the arch to the water, is onehundred and thirty-three feet, leaving three feet for the thickness ofthe rock above the arch itself. The extreme height of the cliff isabout fifty feet more, making in all one hundred and eighty-threefeet. It is impossible, adequately, to describe this wonderful scene. The vast dimensions of the cavern, the vaulted passages, the rarecombination of colors, the varied effects of the light as it streamsthrough the great arch and falls on the different objects; the deep, emerald green of the water, the unvarying swell of the lake, keepingup a succession of musical echoes; the reverberation of one's voicecoming back with startling effect, must all be seen and heard to befully appreciated. 

Not far from this point is "The chapel" of the voyagers which naturehas cut out of the cliff thirty or forty feet above the lake. Theinterior consists of a spacious vaulted apartment. An arched roof fromten to twenty feet in thickness rests on four gigantic columns ofrock. These columns consist of finely stratified rock, and have beenworn into curious shapes. At the base of one of these pillars anarched cavity or niche has been cut, access to which is had by aflight of steps formed by the projecting strata. The arrangement ofthe whole resembles very much the pulpit of a church, while the archedcanopy in front, opening out to the voluted interior, with a flattabular mass rising to a convenient height for a desk, and an isolatedblock resembling an altar, all fashioned as appropriately as if formedby the hand of man, constantly impresses one that he is within thewalls of a church. 

In the Geological Report, made by Foster and Whitney, to Congress, wefind the following remark: "It is a matter of surprise, that so far aswe know, none of our artists, have visited this region, and given tothe world representations of scenery, so striking and so differentfrom any which can be found elsewhere. We can hardly conceive of anything more worthy of the artist's pencil, and if the tide ofpleasure-travel should once be turned in this direction, it seems notunreasonable to suppose, that a fashionable hotel may yet be builtunder the shade of the pine groves near the chapel, and a trip thitherbecome as common as one to Niagara now is. "

Beyond the grand portal, the rock, being less exposed to the force ofthe waves, bears fewer marks of their destructive action. The entranceto Chapel river is at the most easterly extremity of a sandy beach, which extends for a quarter of a mile, and affords a convenientlanding place, while the drift terrace elevated about thirty feetabove the level of the lake, being an open pine plain, affordsexcellent camping ground, and is the most central and convenient spotfor the traveler to pitch his tent, while he examines the mostinteresting localities in the series which occur in the vicinity, particularly the Castle and the Chapel. 

One who had resided upon the shores of Lake Superior for severalsummers says, "Our attention has been directed to the fluctuations inthe level of its waters, and while we have failed to detect any ebband flow corresponding with the tidal action, we have on the otherhand noticed certain extraordinary swells, which appear to beindependent of the action of the sun and moon. " The Jesuit Fathers in1670-1, had their attention called to these extraordinary swells. Intheir "Relations, " they say, "We found at one time the motion of thewaters to be regular and at others extremely fluctuating. We havenoticed however, that at full moon and new moon, the tides change oncea day for eight or ten days, while during the remainder of the timethere is hardly any change perceptible. The currents set almostinvariably in one direction, namely toward Lake Michigan, and theyalmost invariably set against the wind, sometimes with great force. "

Mackenzie who wrote in 1789, relates a very curious phenomenon, whichoccurred at Grand Portage, on Lake Superior, and for which no obviouscause could be assigned. He says, "the water withdrew, leaving theground dry, which had never before been visible, the fall being equalto four perpendicular feet, and rushing back with great velocity abovethe common mark. It continued thus rising and falling for severalhours, gradually increasing until it stopped at its usual height. "

Professor Mather, who observed the barometer at Copper Harbor duringthe prevalence of one of these fluctuations, remarks, "As a generalthing, fluctuations in the barometer accompanied the fluctuations inthe level of the water, but sometimes the water level varied rapidlyin the harbor, while no such variations occurred in the barometer atthe place of observation. The variations in the level of the water maybe caused by varied barometric pressure of the air on the water, either at the place of observation or at some distant points. A localincreased pressure of the atmosphere at the place of observation wouldlower the water level, where there is a wide expanse of water; or adiminished pressure, under the same circumstances, would cause thewater to rise above its usual level. "

In the summer of 1834, according to the report of Foster and Whitney, made to Congress, in 1850, an extraordinary retrocession of the waterstook place at Saut St. Mary. The river here is nearly a mile in width, and the depth of the water over the sandstone rapids is about two anda half feet. The phenomenon occurred at noon. The day was calm butcloudy; the water retired suddenly, leaving the bed of the river bare, except for the distance of about twenty rods where the channel isdeepest, and remained so for the space of an hour. Persons went outand caught fish in the pools formed in the rocky cavities. The returnof the waters was sudden and presented a sublime spectacle. They camedown like an immense surge, roaring and foaming, and those who hadincautiously wandered into the river bed, had barely time to escapebeing overwhelmed. A similar event occurred in 1842, when the currentset back from the rapids, and the water rose upward of two feet abovethe usual mark. 

In 1845, Foster and Whitney, while coasting in an open boat betweenCopper Harbor and Eagle River, observed the water rise up, at adistance of a fourth of a mile to the northwest, to the height oftwenty feet. It curled over like an immense surge, crested with foamand swept toward the shore. It was succeeded by two or three swells ofless magnitude, when the lake resumed its former tranquillity. At thesame time the mirage was beautifully displayed, and imaginary islandswere seen along the horizon. In 1849, they witnessed at Rock Harbor, Isle Royale, the ebbing and flowing of the water, recurring atintervals of fifteen or twenty minutes, during the entire afternoon. 

The difference between the temperature of the air and the lake, givesrise to a variety of optical illusions known as _mirage_. Mountainsare seen with inverted cones, headlands project from the shore wherenone exist. Islands clothed with verdure or girt with cliffs rise upfrom the bosom of the lake. On approaching Keweenaw Point, MountHoughton is the first object to greet the eye of the mariner. Inpeculiar stages of the atmosphere, its summit is seen inverted in thesky long before the mountain itself is visible. On the north shore thePaps, two elevated mountains near the entrance of Neepigon Bay, at onetime appear like hour glasses, and at another like craters, emittinglong columns of smoke, which gradually settles around their cones. 

The mines and minerals of the northwest constitute the most strikingfeature of the country, and at the present time one of the greatsources of its wealth. 

The centre of the mining country is called the Superior country, orthe northern peninsula of Michigan, but there is no reason to believeit is confined to this region. Coal and iron, the most valuable of allminerals are found in various places in the northwest. The principaland most valuable minerals found west of Mackinaw, are iron, copper, and lead. A general view of the mineral region may be found in Owen'sGeological Survey of Iowa, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Superior. Greatbeds of iron are found in ridges or cliffs, some of which rise up toan immense height. Some of these ore-beds of Lake Superior are fifteenfeet in thickness, and one of them contains iron enough to supply theworld for ages. Above them are immense forests, suitable for charcoal. 

The discovery of the iron mountains and mines of Lake Superior wasmade in 1846, but they were not fully developed until the year 1855, when the ship canal at Saut St. Mary was completed. The mines are fromthree to sixteen miles from Marquette, a thriving village of upward ofone thousand inhabitants, overlooking the lake, about one hundred andforty miles above the Saut. The mine nearest the lake is about two anda half miles distant from Marquette, and bears the name of Eureka. Theore is said to be of surpassing richness, and yields an iron of thebest quality, adapted to cutlery. The Jackson iron mountain, and theCleveland iron mountain, are fourteen and sixteen miles distant. Theysend to Marquette an aggregate of one thousand tons per week. Thesemountains rise gradually to the height of six or seven hundred feet, and are a solid mass of iron ore, yielding from 50 to 60 per cent. Ofthe best iron. The New England iron mountain is two and a half milesbeyond the Cleveland mountain, and abounds with ore of equal richness. A mile or two further is the Burt mountain, and the same may be saidof this, both as it regards quantity and quality, as of the others. Arailroad has been constructed from Marquette to the iron regions, andimmense quantities of ore and iron are transported over it daily. 

All the hills and mountains surrounding Lake Superior, abound invaluable minerals of which copper is the most abundant. It exists inevery variety of form. According to the opinion of the lamentedHoughton, this region contains the most extensive copper mines in theknown world. The native copper boulder discovered by the travelerHenry in the bed of the Ontonagon river, and now in Washington, originally weighed thirty-eight hundred pounds. A copper mass of thesame material, found near Copper Harbor, weighed twelve hundredpounds. At Copper Falls, there is a vein of solid ore which measuresnine feet in depth, and seven and a half inches in thickness. At Eagleriver a boulder was found weighing seventeen hundred pounds. Thenumber of mining companies in operation on the American shore isupward of a hundred. 

The Minnesota mine, fifteen miles from Ontonagon, during the yearending January 1, 1857, produced 3, 718, 403 pounds of copper. The Cliffmine during the year, produced 3, 291, 229 pounds of copper. The PortageLake District, including Isle Royale, Portage, Huron, Quincy andPewabic shipped 539 tons of copper in 1857. 

The Lake Superior miners estimate the total shipment of copper mineralfrom the lake during the year 1858, at 6, 008 tons, of an averagepurity of 67 per cent--making the product of ingot copper about 4, 000tons, worth in the market at present $1, 840, 000. Estimating thepopulation of the copper region at 6, 500 persons, this gives an annualproduct of about $280 for each man, woman and child. The shipmentswere as follows: From Keweenaw Point 2, 180 tons; from Portage Lake1, 152 tons; from Ontonagon District 2, 676 tons; total 6, 008 tons. 

The extent and importance of the copper mines of Superior, in relationto the general trade in that metal, may be estimated by the followingaccount of the amount of pure copper produced in other parts of theworld. The United Kingdom of Great Britain 14, 465 tons, Norway 7, 200tons, Russia 4, 000, Mexico 500, Hesse Cassel 500, Hartz Mountains 212;Sweden 2, 000, Hungary 2, 000, East Germany 443; making a total, out ofAmerica, of 30, 820 tons. The single District of Ontonagon can produceas much copper as the entire Kingdom of Great Britain. The coppermines of the United States, are doing their part as effectually inadding to the solid wealth of the country, as the gold mines ofCalifornia, or the silver mines of the Arizonia. The copper miningcountries are another illustration of the principle upon which successis based, namely, that concentrated talent, effort and capital arenecessary to a development of the resources of a country. 

When we look into the manufacture of this article, we shall find a newelement in the future growth of towns to arise in this region. Atpresent, a large portion of this copper is shipped abroad to besmelted. But is there not every reason, as well of economy as ofmaterial, for carrying on smelting, and all other manufacturingprocesses, at the point of production? The cost of transporting theraw material is greater than that of carrying the manufacturedproduct. But when all the elements of successful manufacturing existwhere the raw material is found, then the economy of the process isdoubled. Of metals, of navigation, of food, we have shown there is aninexhaustible supply. But there is also coal near enough to supply thelast and only material which might be supposed wanting. Coal is foundin the Southern Peninsula of Michigan, in abundance and of goodquality. This coal is found at Jackson and at Lansing. This was amatter of so much importance that Prof. Douglas, of the StateUniversity, proceeded immediately to analyze it. 

The following are the principal results of his analysis. It was madechiefly in reference to the manufacture of gas:--

"The coal was of the bituminous variety, having a jet black color andslaty structure. It was readily ignited, burning with a dull flame andsmoke, the fragments comminuting more or less by the heat. It had aspecific gravity of about 1. 25. 

"100 parts gave volatile matter 50. 780, sulphur 4. 028, iron 4. 400, ash 8. 400, carbon (not volatilized) 41. 600. 

"The value of coal for the manufacture of gas is usually estimated bythe amount of volatile matter it yields at a full red-heat. "

Of ten samples of English coal, this had more volatile matter thansix. Of American coals, it had more of the burning principle than any, except one. The quality of this coal is unquestionably good, and itsdistance from Mackinaw is no objection, since access can be obtainedboth by water and railroad. Both the coal and iron used in themanufactures of Cincinnati are brought from places distant from onehundred to five hundred miles; and yet scarcely any place in Americahas prospered more by manufactures than the Queen of the West. Mackinaw has more than the advantages of Cincinnati for manufactures. It not only has iron and coal, but copper and lead, near enough forall the purposes of successful manufacture. Favorable indications ofcoal exist within fifty miles south of the Straits, and indicationsalso exist of lead. When we consider these facts, and the vast extentof country, of inland oceans, and of streams around it, why should notMackinaw be a point of concentration for manufactures, as well as ofdistribution for commerce?

Mackinaw is centrally situated in the mineral region, and with coaland hard wood for charcoal in perpetual abundance, and the cheapestpossible mode of transportation, will become a great manufacturingpoint, and be able to manufacture innumerable articles, which are nowmade in Europe, and which our people have been compelled to import foruse, simply because the material hitherto employed has been of aquality unsuitable for such purposes. Besides the healthful andbracing temperature of this locality, when compared with Ohio andPennsylvania, whose summers are found to be exceedingly enervating, especially to those employed in the manufacture of iron, affordsadvantages, and offers inducements which cannot be overlooked, sincein the physical strength and comfort of the workmen, is involved theall-important question of economy. If it should be asked, is the sitesuch that a great city can be built upon it, without imperial wealth, like to that of St. Petersburg, or with the artificial foundationslike to those of Chicago, or bankrupting successive companies likeCairo on the Ohio, --the answer is at hand and decisive. At Mackinawthere are no marshes to fill up or drain, no tide sands, noflood-washed banks, no narrow and isolated rocks or ridges, tointercept the progress of commercial growth and activity. On thecontrary, the lake rises under the heaviest rains but little, andbreaks its waves on a dry shore rising gradually far above its level. There is no better natural site for the foundation of a city in theworld, nor one possessing more inviting or beautiful surroundings, andwhen we consider its available resources, it is evident that nothingcan prevent its rise and progress. The straits are so completely thekey of the Upper Lakes, Mackinaw must, as in the days of the furtrade, unlock the vast treasures of the entire northwest. The shore ofLake Superior, being but about fifty miles north of Mackinaw anddependent on a canal navigation, annually navigable sixty days lessthan the straits, on account of ice, to say nothing of breakage, it isperfectly obvious that there can be no competing city further north. 

The following from the Toledo Blade shows the immense importance ofthis point as a key position:

"The immense commerce of the lakes, the growth of which has beenunparalleled by anything in the history of the world, and the vastmineral, timber and agricultural resources of their shores, which areeven now, only beginning to attract attention, may well awaken adesire on the part of enterprise to get possession of the key positionwhich is to command and unlock the future treasures of this vastempire. Already, six important commercial cities, with an aggregatepopulation of about 350, 000 inhabitants, have sprung up on theseisland waters, and are the most flourishing of any away from theAtlantic coast. Others are struggling into notoriety on the borders ofLake Superior, and must, at no very distant time, become important andactive places of business. But the place of all others, where we wouldexpect a city to spring up and grow rapidly into importance, is stillundeveloped. 

"The Straits of Mackinaw, four and a half miles wide, make the onlynatural ferry communication between the great peninsula, enclosed bythe lakes and the rich mineral region lying on the southern border ofLake Superior; and must, hence, be the terminus of all the greatrailroad lines that traverse Michigan longitudinally and compete forthe trade north of the straits, now rapidly growing up intoimportance. It must therefore be the point of radiation, eastward, through Canada; westward through the mineral region; and southward, through Michigan. Canada has already made grants of land for severalimportant roads which must ultimately reach the straits; and lines arealso provided for by government grants, from the straits through theNorthern Peninsula, and from the straits southward to Fort Wayne bythe way of Grand Rapids, and to Toledo, through Lansing. Theculminating point being thus settled for several roads, all otherswill naturally centre at the same crossing, even if the coast line hadnot made such a thing inevitable. 

"The point which projects northward into the lake, from the MichiganPeninsula, to form this strait, is admirably located for a great city. It is the site of old Fort Mackinaw, and in health and commercialposition, can have no rival in those southern waters. This point hasbeen selected by a company of capitalists, on which to plant thecommercial city of the north; the Venice of the Lakes, foreshadowed inthe extract which we have placed at the head of the article. This newcity is to bear the name of the ancient fort and strait, and to becalled Mackinaw. It will hold the key of all the northern lakes; andshould its growth be marked by energy and enterprise, will command thetrade of the greatest mining region in the world; be the chief depotof the northern fisheries; the outlet of an immense lumber trade; andthe focus of a great network of railways, communicating with tropicson the south, and stretching out its iron arms, at no distant day, tothe Atlantic on the east, and Pacific on the west. 

"The proposed city will have the advantage of the most salubriousclimate to be found in the temperate zone, and will be the resort ofthose seeking health, as well as those seeking wealth. It has anorthern position, being on the same parallel as Montreal; but thewinters are equable, and the summers though short, are mild andpleasant, being modified by the great body of water which stretchesout on every side, except at the south. As a manufacturing point itmay well command universal attention. The Lake Superior iron is knownto be the best in the world, and coal and wood are at hand in thegreatest abundance; while communication by water is so wide as toleave nothing to desire on that head. It should be as famous forsmelting as Swansea, in England, for it must have unbounded suppliesof iron and copper ore. 

"But we have no space to speak of its commercial position. It must beseen at a glance that, as all the produce which flows through Chicago, Milwaukee, and the great West must sweep by on its way to the East, and all the goods and merchandise of the East, must be borne by itswharves on their way to the West, that it cannot fail to be a pointwhich must spring at once into importance. The government, too, musthave a fort, a light-house, and customhouse there, which with thefisheries, must supply a large profitable business to its earlierpopulation. "

CHAPTER VII. 

 Lake Huron -- Eastern shore of Michigan -- Face of the country -- Picturesque view -- Rivers -- Grand -- Saginaw -- Cheboy-e-gun -- Natural scenery -- Fort Gratiot -- White Rock -- Saginaw Bay -- Thunder Bay -- Bois Blanc Island -- Drummond's Island -- British Troops -- St. Helena Island -- Iroquois Woman's Point -- Point La Barbe -- Point aux Sable -- Point St. Vital -- Wreck of the Queen City -- St. Martin's Island -- Fox Point -- Moneto pa-maw -- Mille au Coquin -- Great fishing places -- Cross Village -- Catholic Convent. 

Lake Huron, which, with Lake Erie and St. Clair, washes the easternboundary of the southern peninsula of Michigan, is two hundred andfifty miles long and its average width is about one hundred miles. Itsdepth is about eight hundred feet. The southeastern shore of Michiganpresents a level surface covered with a dense forest, at pointsmeeting the edge of the bank. The trees of this heavily-timbered land, with their massive shafts standing close together, "cast a gloomygrandeur over the scene, and when stripped of their foliage appearlike the black colonnade of a sylvan temple. " In advancing into theinterior, a picturesque and rolling country opens to view, coveredwith oak-openings or groves of white oak thinly scattered over theground, having the appearance of stately parks. The appearance of thesurface of the country is as if it was covered with mounds, arrangedwithout order, sometimes rising from thirty to two hundred feet inheight, producing a delightful alternation of hill and dale, which issometimes varied by a rich prairie or burr-oak grove. 

The principal rivers of the State are the Grand, St. Joseph's, Kalamazoo, the Raisin, the Clinton, the Huron, and the Rouge. TheGrand is two hundred and seventy miles in length, and has a freenavigation for steamboats which ply regularly between Lake Michiganand Grand Rapids, a distance of forty miles. The Saginaw empties intoLake Huron and is navigable for sixty miles. These, with the others wehave named, interlock their branches running through different partsof southern Michigan, and while they beautify the landscape theyafford water-power and fertilize the soil. 

The river Cheboy-e-gun is the largest stream in the northern portionof the lower peninsula and empties into the Straits of Mackinawopposite Bois Blanc Island. At its mouth is a village containing twosteam saw mills and one water saw mill. A light-house stands a mile ortwo east from this point. Brook-trout, bass, pike, pickerel, andperch, are caught at the entrance of the river. In the fall and springnumerous water-fowl resort to the upper forks of the river and to thesmall lakes forming its sources. These lakes also abound with a greatvariety of fish, which can be taken by spearing. 

The natural scenery of Michigan is imposing. The extensive tracts ofdense forests, clothed with the richest verdure, fresh as when itfirst came from the hands of the Creator; the prairies and lakes whichabound, the wide parks, whose soil is entirely covered for miles withlarge and rich flowers, present a striking and agreeable contrast. Thebeech and black walnut, the elm, the maple, the hickory, and the oaksof different species and large size, the lind and the bass-wood, andvarious other kinds of forest trees, plainly indicate the fertility ofthe soil from whence they spring. Grape vines often hang from thebranches a foot in circumference, clustering around their trunks, orthickening the undergrowth along the banks of rivers; and, while theglades open to the sun like cultivated grounds, the morethickly-timbered forests, shut out from the sky by the mass ofvegetation, present in summer a gloomy twilight. 

In traveling along the main roads of Michigan, splendid tracts ofpark-like lawns sweep along the path for miles covered with flowers, broken by prairies, thick forests, and lakes. 

Fort Gratiot stands at the foot of Lake Huron and commands theentrance to the upper lakes. Advancing along the western shore of thislake the voyager sees a long, alluvial bank covered with a forest ofpine, poplar, beech, and hemlock. 

On advancing further the banks become more elevated until they rise toforty feet in height. About fifty miles from Fort Gratiot, a largerock rises to the surface of the lake, a mile or so from the shore, which is called the "White Rock. " From the earliest period this rockhas been regarded as an altar or a landmark. It was to the earlyvoyagers a beacon to guide them in their course; but to the Indians itwas a place of oblation, where they offered sacrifices to the spiritsof the lakes. 

Saginaw Bay is a large indentation of the shoreline like to that ofGreen Bay in Lake Michigan, but not so large. Near its centre are anumber of small islands. Twenty miles from its mouth stands thethriving town of Saginaw. From the northwesterly cape of Saginaw Bayto Flat Rock Point, the shore of Lake Huron presents a bank ofalluvial soil, with a margin of sand along its border intersected withfrequent masses of limestone rock, in some places ground to fragmentsby the surging of the waves. 

Thunder Bay is also another indentation made by the Lake. It was thuscalled from the impression that at this point the air was more thanordinarily charged with electricity. 

Bois Blanc Island, at the head of Lake Huron, stretches in the form ofa crescent between the Island of Mackinac and the lower peninsula ofMichigan. It is from ten to twelve miles in length by three or four inbreadth. The lower part of this island is sandy, but the largerportion of it is covered with a fertile soil bearing a forest of elm, maple, oak, ash, whitewood and beech. It has been surveyed and agovernment light-house stands on its eastern point. 

In the northern part of Lake Michigan are located Beaver Islands. There are five or six of this group bearing different names. BigBeaver is the most considerable, and contains perhaps forty squaremiles. These islands all lie in the vicinity of each other, and withina few miles northwest of Grand and Little Traverse Bays in LakeMichigan. The Big Beaver was, up to July, 1856, in possession of theMormons, who claimed it as a gift from the Lord. 

Another interesting locality is Drummond's Island, between the Detourand the False Detour. It was taken possession of by the British troopswhen they surrendered Fort Mackinaw in 1814. On this island they builta fort and formed quite a settlement. Upon an examination of theboundary line between the United States and Great Britain, it wasascertained that this island was within the jurisdiction of theformer, and it was accordingly evacuated by the British in 1828. TheBritish subjects living on the island followed the troops, and theplace was soon deserted and became a desolation. 

St. Helena Island is a small island near the Straits of Mackinaw, notfar from the shore of the northern peninsula, containing a few acresover a section of land. It is a great fishing station, and enjoys agood harbor protected from westerly winds. Its owner, who has exiledhimself _a la Napoleon_, spends his time in fishing, and otherpursuits adapted to his mind. 

In addition to the numerous islands constituting the surroundings ofMackinaw there are a number of interesting localities denominated"Points", that we must not omit to mention. The first, because themost important, and one which is connected with many historicassociations which we shall direct attention to, is the "IroquoisWoman's Point, " the Indian name for Point St. Ignatius on the oppositeside of the straits from Mackinaw, distant between three and fourmiles, about the same as from the Battery at New York to StatenIsland. The original inhabitants with their descendants have longsince passed away. Its present occupants are principally Canadians. Ithas a Catholic chapel. 

Point La Barbe, opposite to Green Island Shoals and Mackinaw, is aprojection of the upper peninsula into the straits. It is four milesdistant from Gross Cape, and derives its name from a custom whichprevailed among the Indian traders in olden time on their annualreturn to Mackinaw of stopping here and putting on their best apparelbefore making their appearance among the people of that place. 

About half way between Mackinaw and Cheboy-e-gun, a projection fromthe lower peninsula into the straits, is Point aux Sable. Point St. Vital is a cape projecting into Lake Huron from the southeasternextremity of the upper peninsula. There is a reef of rocks off thispoint where the steamer Queen City was wrecked. On a clear day thispoint may be seen from Fort Holmes, and it presents an enchantingview. The St. Martin's Islands are also in full view from this point. 

In the southwestern part of the straits, about twenty miles distantfrom Mackinaw, is Fox Point. A light-house has been erected on a shoalextending out two miles into the lake. Moneto-pa-maw is a high bluffstill further west, on the shore of Michigan, where there are finefisheries, and is a place of considerable resort. Further west, nearthe mouth of the Mille au Coquin river which empties into Michigan, there are also excellent fisheries, and to those who are fond of thiskind of sport apart from the profit connected with it, there is noplace in the world possessing half the attractions as Mackinaw and itssurroundings, while the "Mackinaw trout, " with the "Mackinaw boat" andthe "Mackinaw blanket, " are famous over the world. 

Between Little Traverse and Mackinaw is the village of Cross, or LaCrosse. The following interesting account of a visit to that place istaken from the Mackinaw Herald in 1859:

"The name of this village--'Cross, ' recalls to one's mind, somereminiscences connected with the early history of the IndianMissions. Suffice it to observe, that it derives its name from thecircumstance of a large cross having stood for many years on the browof the hill, on which the present Indian village stands, planted thereby some of the followers of James Marquette, during their explorationsand missions in this part of the country. The old cross was of oak, and was still standing about forty-five years ago. Recently it hasbeen replaced by another. An old Indian, called _The Short-Arm_, overwhose head some eighty winters had passed, was still living in 1836, and who, when a little boy, recollected to have seen the lastMissionary of this place. 'I am old, my children, ' said the agedMissionary, 'and I wish to die among my own people--I must leave you. 'He left; and in the course of time the Arbre-Croche Indians relapsedinto Paganism. They continued in this state until a young ChristianOttawa, named _Aw-taw-weesh_, who had just returned from among theCatholic Algonquins in Canada, appeared among them and taughtreligion. He became also, in some respects, what Cadmus was of old, orGuess among the Cherokees--the first teacher of letters, among hispeople. As writing paper was then scarce, at least among the Indians, he taught them to write on birch bark, with sharpened sticks, insteadof pens. This man is still living. He is now old, poor, almostentirely blind; and although having been a real benefactor to hispeople, he may go down to his grave, unpitied, and unknown. 

"But awakened by his teachings, the Indians afterward called loudly onMissionaries to come among them, and they have had them during thepast thirty or forty years. 

"At this day two Catholic Clergymen and a Convent of four Brothers andtwelve Sisters--being a religious community, of the Third Order of St. Francis--are stationed at this place. But, to return: As roughvoyaging generally gives keen appetite, so the party did ample justiceto the eatables, which had been prepared by the Indians. Perhaps somereader at a distance might suppose this supper to have been taken in a_wigwam_; with the fire-place in the centre, a hole above for theescape of smoke; and the party squatting down upon the ground, withlegs crossed in tailor fashion, around a single dish: no, no; but itwas prepared in a good, substantial house; on a table with atable-cloth, with crockery, dishes, tea-cups and saucers, and knivesand forks, such as are used by common white folks. Then there stoodthe waiters, ready to assist the double-handed manipulations going onat the table. At a convenient hour, the party separated for the night;the agent was put in possession of the clergyman's house, thentemporarily absent on a mission, by the Rev. Mr. Weikamp, the Superiorof the Convent. 

"The next day, after the forenoon services of the church at thevillage, the agent and party, according to previous invitation, wentto the Convent for dinner. Arrived there, they were introduced firstinto a log cabin, situated at some distance in the rear of theconvent, occupied by the four Brothers, belonging to the order, andthe Rev. Superior. He occupies a single room, in real new-settlerstyle. This is his sitting-room, library, study and bed-room. He hastraveled in Europe, and some parts of Asia; he has various objects ofcuriosity; and among these is a silver coin of about the size andvalue of a Mexican quarter of a dollar, which he brought with him fromJerusalem. This piece of money is said to be one of the kind of whichJudas received thirty pieces, from the chief priests and magistrates, the price for which he sold his Divine Master. Another thing, is aTurkish pipe, with its long, pliable stem, with which the lover of the'weed' could regale himself without being annoyed by the smoke, asusual; for the pipe, which is made somewhat in the shape and of thesize of a small decanter and half filled with water is so arrangedthat while the wet tobacco is burning in the cup on the top, thesmoke, during suction at the stem, descends through a tube into thewater, and none of it escapes visibly, into the open air. The Rev. Mr. Weikamp, the Superior, is a German, and speaks English fluently. He isin the prime of life, and is full of energy and perseverance. He isnot one of those who, from the fact of belonging to a religious order, may be supposed to be gloomy, with head bowed down, not hardly daringto cast his eyes up into the beautiful light of the heavens; but heconverses with freedom, ease and assurance; and he relishes a joke aswell as any man, when it comes _a propos_. A fanciful peculiarity, though nothing strange in it, attends his steps wherever he goes, inthe shape of a small black dog called "Finnie, " with a string of smallhorse-bells round his neck. "Finnie" has two black, watery andglistening spots in his head for eyes, which seem ready to shoot outfrom their sockets, especially when spoken to. When told in German, tospeak, 'Finnie' begins to tremble--he shakes his head--jingles hisbells; and utters a kind of guttural snuffling, and half-suppressedgrowl or bark. But, as we are not acquainted with the German language, we cannot say, that "Finnie" pronounces it well!

"Dinner being announced at the convent, the party went over with theSuperior to partake of it. Everything about the table was scrupulouslyneat--an abundance of the substantial of good living had been preparedby the Sisters. Some time after dinner the vesper bell rang at theconvent; and by special permission, the party were shown into thechoir usually occupied by the Brothers alone during the services ofthe church. This was on one side of the altar; and on the other, was asimilar choir for the sisters. In the body of the church, the Indiansor others are admitted. For a few moments after entering, all wassilence;--but the priest having intoned the vespers, the sweet tonesof a large melodeon suddenly swelled through the sanctuary, minglingwith the voices of the sisters. This for a time had a singular effect. To hear music in these wild woods, far away from civilized societywhere instrumental music forms part of the ordinary pleasures andamenities of life, served to recall to one's memory other days andother climes. After vespers, the Superior of the convent conducted theparty through the building to view it. The dimensions are: 160 feetlong, 80 wide, and 28 feet high. There are two court yards, each 40 by40 feet, and the church also 40 by 40, placed between them. Whenfinished, this building will contain 108 bedrooms, a large schoolroom, carpenter and blacksmith shops, dining-rooms, kitchen, store-rooms, halls, corridors, &c. It will be separated into two parts; one to beoccupied exclusively by the Sisters, and the other by the Brothers. Atthe time of this visit, there were some cultivated flowers yet inbloom in the court-yard. So much for the material building: and now ahasty sketch of this religious order may not be unacceptable to someof our readers. 

"This religious community, is the Third Order of St. Francis, ofAssisi, instituted in Europe by this saint in 1221. It was establishedfor persons married or single living in the world, united by certainpious exercises, compatible with a secular state. It soon spread overall Europe, and even kings and queens on their thrones vied with thepoorest peasants in eagerly entering this order, to share the laborsof the mission within its sphere, and to participate in its spiritualbenefits. Among the persons of this order, who were expelled fromtheir cloister homes during the revolution which agitated Europe in1848, was Sister Teresa Hackelmayer. This nun, at the proposal of amissionary father in America, and by permission of her Superior, cameto New York in the winter of 1851, to establish a community of herorder in that State. But meeting with disappointment there, shefinally established a convent at Oldenburg, in the State of Indiana. In 1851, a second convent of this order was founded at Nojoshing, fourmiles from Milwaukee, on Lake Michigan. In 1853, the Rev. J. B. Weikamp founded, in West Chicago, the third convent of this order, andalso formed a community of Brothers;--and in October 1855, with theunderstanding of Bishop Baraga, then Vicar Apostolic of UpperMichigan, he transferred those two communities to 'Cross Village'--hispresent location. 

"The company having ranged through the building, as observed, took awalk outside. From the south side of the convent, a broad walk is laidout reaching to an inclosure of some forty feet square, at thedistance of about fifteen rods. Another and narrower walk through thecentre of this inclosure leads to a small square building, on theopposite side, having a four-sided roof meeting in a point, andsurmounted by a cross. On entering this building, a lounge or settee, stands in front, and on the wall above it, hangs a piece of board orcanvass, painted black, on which are human skulls of different sizes, each with two cross bones painted in white. A trap-door is raised fromthe floor, and a deep, spacious vault is opened to view: this is theplace of burial for the Superior of the convent. On the outside, thespaces on either side of the little walk are intended to be the lastresting-places of the brothers and sisters. It is a solemn thought tosee men thus prepare deliberately for _Death!_ But as the partyretraced their steps in such cheerful, good humor, loitering towardthe convent, one might have supposed that the beautiful weather, thebright sunshine, and the bracing air had, for the time, scattered awayall thoughts of death. Among the questions proposed to the Superiorwas, 'Whether at any time the brothers and sisters were allowed tohave social, familiar intercourse with each other?' The Superioranswered, in substance, that they were not; nor even allowed to speakto each other, without permission of the Superior. 'Then according toyour principle, ' some one rejoined, 'the world would soon come to anend!' The remark raised a general laugh, in which the Superior himselfjoined heartily. "

CHAPTER VIII. 

 Three epochs -- The romantic -- The military -- The agricultural and commercial -- An inviting region -- Jesuit and Protestant missions -- First Protestant mission -- First missionary -- Islands of Mackinac and Green Bay -- La Pointe -- Saut St. Mary -- Presbyterians -- Baptists -- Methodists -- Revival at Fort Brady -- Ke-wee-naw -- Fon du Lac -- Shawnees -- Pottawatimies -- Eagle River -- Ontonagon -- Camp River -- Iroquois Point -- Saginaw Indians -- Melancholy reflections -- Number of Indians in the States and Territories. 

The history of this region, in the language of one, exhibits threedistinct and strongly marked epochs. The first may be properlydenominated the romantic, which extends to the year 1760, when itsdominion passed from the hands of the French to the English. This wasthe period when the first beams of civilization had scarcelypenetrated its forests, and the paddles of the French fur trader sweptthe lakes, and the boat songs of the _voyageurs_ awakened the tribeson their wild and romantic shores. 

The second epoch is the military, which commenced with the Pontiacwar, running down through the successive struggles of the British, theIndians, and the Americans, to obtain dominion of the country, andending with the victory of Commodore Perry, the defeat of Proctor, thevictory of General Harrison and the death of Tecumseh, the leader ofthe Anglo-savage conspiracy on the banks of the Thames. 

The third may be denominated the enterprising, the hardy, themechanical, and working period, commencing with the opening of thecountry to emigrant settlers, the age of agriculture, commerce, andmanufactures, of harbors, cities, canals, and railroads, when thelandscapes of the forest were meted out by the compass and chain ofthe surveyor, when its lakes and rivers were sounded, and theircapacity, to turn the wheel of a mill or to float a ship, weredemonstrated, thus opening up avenues of commerce and industry. Itswild and savage character has passed away, and given place tocivilization, religion, and commerce, inviting the denizens ofover-crowded cities to its broad lakes and beautiful rivers, its richmines and fertile prairies, and promising a rapid and abundantremuneration for toil. 

We have alluded to the labors and sacrifices of the Jesuitmissionaries in the early period of the history of the northwest, andit is right and proper that the labors of the Protestant missionaries, though of a much later period, should not be forgotten. The Jesuitfathers were not alone in sacrifice and toil in introducing the Gospelamong the tribes of the northwest. The first Protestant missionsestablished in this region, as far as we have been able to learn, werethose of the Presbyterian Church on the Island of Mackinac and atGreen Bay. 

The first missionary who visited Mackinaw was the Rev. David Bacon, father of the Rev. Leonard Bacon, D. D. , of New Haven. He was sent outby the Connecticut Missionary Society in 1800, and commenced hismission in Detroit, where, after remaining a year or two, herelinquished his field to a Moravian missionary, Rev. Mr. Denky, andvisited the Indians on the Maumee. From this he returned to Detroit, and from thence went to Mackinac, where he remained until themissionary society was compelled, from want of funds, to recall theirmissionary. 

The following interesting account was given by C. J. Walker, Esq. , before the Historical Society of Detroit:

"The Connecticut Missionary Society is, I believe, the oldestMissionary Association in America. It was organized in June, 1795, the General Association of Connecticut, at its annual meeting thatyear, having organized itself into a society of that name. Its objectwas 'to Christianize the heathen in North America, and to support andpromote Christian knowledge in the new settlements within the UnitedStates. ' For some years its efforts were principally directed tosending missionaries 'to the new settlements in Vermont, New York, andPennsylvania, ' and subsequently 'New Connecticut, ' or the WesternReserve of Ohio, became an important field of its operations. Thetrustees, in June, 1800, determined 'that a discreet man, animated bythe love of God and souls, of a good common education, be sought for, to travel among the Indian tribes south and west of Lake Erie, toexplore their situation and learn their feelings with respect toChristianity, and so far as he has opportunity to teach them itsdoctrines and duties. ' A very sensible letter of 'Instructions' wasadopted and a long message 'to the Indian tribes bordering on LakeErie' prepared, showing very little knowledge of Indian mind andcharacter. Mr. David Bacon presented himself as a candidate for thissomewhat unpromising field of labor. His son says he was one of thosemen who are called visionary and enthusiasts by men of more prosaicand plodding temperament. He had not a liberal education, but was aman of eminent intellectual powers and of intensely thoughtful habits, and beside a deep religious experience, he had endeavored diligentlyto fit himself for a missionary life, the self-denying labors of whichhe ardently coveted. On examination Mr. Bacon was accepted. 

"On the 8th of August, 1800, Mr. Bacon left Hartford on foot with hispack upon his back, and on the 4th of September he was at Buffalo, having walked most of the distance. On the 8th, he left on a vesselfor this city, which he reached after a quick and pleasant voyage onthe 11th. He was made welcome at the house of the commandant, MajorHunt, where, I believe, his first religious services were held. Gen. Uriah Tracy, of Litchfield, Conn. , General Agent of the United Statesfor the Western Indians, was then here, and, together with the localIndian agent, Jonathan Schieffelin, took an active interest in themission of Mr. Bacon. John Askin, Esq. , the same liberal-mindedmerchant, who so essentially befriended the Moravians twenty yearsbefore, and Benjamin Huntington, a merchant here, formerly of Norwich, Conn. , rendered him valuable information and assistance. Learning fromthese sources that the Delawares at Sandusky, were about to remove, that the Wyandottes were mostly Catholics, and that there were noother Indians 'south and west of Lake Erie, ' among whom there was aninviting field of labor, his attention was turned to the north, and, with the advice of these judicious friends, on the 13th of September, he took passage with General Tracy in a government vessel bound forMackinac, and went to Harson's Island, at the head of Lake St. Clair, near which there was quite an Indian settlement. Although only fortymiles distant, he did not reach there until the 17th, being four daysupon the voyage. Jacob Harson or Harsing, as it was originallyspelled, the proprietor of this island, was an Albany Dutchman, who, in 1766, on appointment of Sir Wm. Johnson, came to Niagara as Indianblacksmith and gunsmith, and his original commission or letter ofappointment, written by Sir William, is now before me. On the breakingout of the Revolution, finding Mr. Harson friendly to the Americans, the British stripped him of his property and sent him, sorely againsthis will, to this frontier. He established himself upon the island asearly as 1786, where his descendants now reside, acquired greatinfluence with the Indians, and lived in a very comfortable manner. Hereceived Mr. Bacon in this beautiful retreat, with great kindness andhospitality, and he thanks the Lord that he is provided a comfortablehouse, a convenient study, and as good a bed and as good board as Ishould have had if I had remained in Connecticut. I know of no placein the State of New York so healthy as this, I believe the water andthe air as pure here as in any part of New England, and I have neverbeen before where venison and wild geese and ducks were so plenty, orwhere there was such a rich variety of fresh-water fish. There weremany Indians in the vicinity. Mr. Harson encouraged the establishmentof a mission, and Mr. Bacon deemed it a most favorable opening. Bernardus Harson, a son of Jacob, was engaged as interpreter. Hereturned to Detroit on the same vessel with General Tracy, Sept. 30th, to attend an Indian Council which was held here on the 7th of October, when he was formally introduced to the Indians by General Tracy, andwas most favorably received. He returned to the island and remaineduntil the Indians departed for their winter hunting grounds, when heleft for Connecticut, where he arrived about the middle of December. He was soon ordained to the ministry, and I believe married, for hereturned with a young wife of whom nothing is heard previously. 

"Late in January 1801, Mr. Bacon commenced his return journey withhis wife and her brother, Beaumont Parks, Esq. , now of Springfield, Illinois, a young man who came with him to learn the Chippewa languageand to become a teacher. The sleighing leaving them they remained atBloomfield, Ontario county, New York, until spring, and did not reachhere until May 9th. Mr. Bacon's plan was to remain at Detroit, untilhe became so familiar with the Indian language that he couldsuccessfully prosecute his mission. He remained here until the springof 1802, holding regular religious services in the Council House. Fora time he preached twice upon the Sabbath, but the afternoonattendance being thin, he accepted a call from the settlement on theriver Rouge to preach to them half a day. To aid in defraying expenseshe commenced keeping a school in the house where he lived on St. Jamesstreet, just in the rear of the Masonic Hall, and in this he wasassisted by his wife. One at least of our present fellow citizens wasa pupil of Mr. Bacon, and has pleasant memories of that little school. Amid many discouragements the study of the Chippewa was pursued bythis missionary family, and although they made 'but slow progress' andit was 'hard work to commit their words to memory' and 'extremelydifficult to construct a sentence according to the idioms of theirlanguage, ' they 'hope and expect we shall be able to surmount everydifficulty. '

"While thus toilfully but hopefully preparing for his anticipatedwork, getting acquainted with Indians, their life and character, andas yet uncertain at what precise point to commence his mission, Mr. Denhey, a Moravian missionary, desired to occupy the field upon theSt. Clair River, which Mr. Bacon in some measure occupied the yearbefore, and to this Mr. Bacon assented. His attention had been calledto Mackinac and L'Arbre Croche, but he resolved to visit the Indiansupon the Maumee, and ascertain by personal interviews and examinationwhat encouragement there was for a mission in that vicinity. For thispurpose, with his brother-in-law and a hired man, on 29th of April, 1802, he left in a canoe for the 'Miami, 'as the Maumee was thencalled. He found most of the Indian chiefs engaged in a drunkendebauch, and it was not until the 14th of May, and after repeatedefforts, that he succeeded in gathering a full council, and addressingthem upon the subject of establishing a mission among them. He felt ithis duty to have translated the message sent to the Indians by theMissionary Society. The poor savages listened courteously to this longpiece of abstruse theological narrative and argument, but they musthave been terribly bored, notwithstanding Mr. Bacon's efforts to'express the ideas in language better adapted to the capacity and moreagreeable to their ways of speaking. ' No wonder that Little Otter was'too unwell to attend in the afternoon. ' After this translation, Mr. Bacon made a well conceived speech of considerable length, settingforth the advantages which the Indians would derive from a mission. There was no little point in the polished reproof of Little Otter, inthe commencement of his speech, who said: 'Now brother, if you willlisten to us we will give you an answer. But it is our way to be veryshort. Our white brothers, when they make speeches, are very lengthy. They read and write so much that they get in a great many littlethings. But it is not so with your red brothers. When we go on anygreat business and have any great things to say, we say them in a fewwords. ' With no little ingenuity, but with apparent courtesy, thesesons of the forest declined a mission in their midst. The gist of thereply is contained in the following sentence: 'Brother, your religionis very good; but it is only good for white people. It will not do forIndians, they are quite a different sort of people. '

"On the following day Mr. Bacon started for Detroit, and remainedhere until June 2d, when, with his family, he removed toMissilimackinac, then the great centre of Indian population in ourTerritory. Here he remained until August 1804, perfecting himself inthe language, teaching, preaching and pursuing the other laborsincident to his mission. He very clearly saw that a successful Indianmission involved no inconsiderable expenditure in establishing schoolsand in educating the Indians in agriculture and the ruder arts ofcivilization. These expenditures were too large for the means of theMissionary Society, and in January, 1804, they directed the mission toabandoned, and that Mr. Bacon should remove to the Western Reserve. The intelligence of this reached Mr. Bacon in July, and in August heremoved and became the first founder of the town of Tallmadge, Ohio. Thus ended this first Protestant effort to convert the Indians ofMichigan to the faith of the cross. It was while Mr. Bacon wasresiding here that Rev. Dr. Bacon was born. We may therefore, withpride, claim him as a native of our beautiful city. "

Sometime after a mission was established at La Pointe near thesouthern extremity of Lake Superior. The Mission at Mackinac wassubsequently revived and continued until 1837, when the populationhad so entirely changed, and the Indians had discontinued theirvisits for purposes of trade, that it was deemed best to abandon it, which was done, and the property sold. The Rev. Mr. Pitezel, in his"Lights and Shade of Missionary Life, " who visited the island in 1843, thus speaks of this mission: "We visited the mission establishmentonce under the care of the Presbyterian Church, but now abandoned. Itis a spacious building, and was once thronged with native andhalf-bred children and youth, there educated at vast expense. Littleof the fruit of this self-sacrificing labor is thought now to beapparent, but the revelations of eternity may show that here was anecessary and a very important link in the chain of events, connectedwith the Christianization of benighted pagans. " During the time of Mr. Pitezel's visit, a large number of Indians of different tribes hadassembled at the island, for the purpose of receiving their annuity, among which were several Christian Indians, from Saut St. Mary, GrandTraverse, and elsewhere. The Rev. Mr. Daugherty, a Presbyterianminister, from the latter place, accompanied his Indians, and had histent among them for the purpose of keeping his sheep from the hands ofthe wolfish white man, who would first rob him of his religion, andthen of his money. 

In 1828, the Baptists established a mission at Saut St. Mary. Thismission was opened under the most favorable auspices by the Rev. A. Bingham, and continued in a state of prosperity for many years. In1843 it was still under the superintendence of the Rev. Mr. Bingham, who for twenty years had been laboring to bring the Indians underChristian influence. Indian children were boarded in the missionestablishment, and a school was kept up, which, in the language ofone, would have been a credit to any land. The Rev. Mr. Porter, aCongregationalist missionary, also labored here. The labors of thesemissionaries were greatly blessed, and numbers of officers andsoldiers at the fort and garrison, as well as Indians, were converted. 

The Baptist missionaries extended their labors to various points onthe northern peninsula and on the shores of Lake Superior. 

The Methodists commenced a mission at Saut St. Mary, under the laborsof "John Sunday, " a converted Indian, soon after that established bythe Baptists. In 1831 a portion of the Oneida Indians removed to GreenBay, and the Rev. John Clark was sent out as a missionary among themthe following year. In a report made by the missionary to the Board, he thus describes his field of labor: "The white settlement is locatedon the left bank of the Fox River, extending up the river about fivemiles from the head of the bay. The population is about one thousand, but greatly amalgamated with the Menominee Indians, over whom it issaid they have great influence. The Indian settlement is abouttwenty-five miles from this place, on the left bank of the Fox river. "Mr. Clark preached at this settlement and at Green Bay on alternateSabbaths. Messrs. Marsh and Stevens, of the Presbyterian church, werelocated here, laboring among the Stockbridge Indians and kindlywelcomed Mr. Clark among them. These Indians emigrated fromStockbridge, Mass. , and were at one time under the pastoral care ofJonathan Edwards. While this distinguished divine was missionary amongthese Indians, at Stockbridge, he wrote his famous "Treatise on theWill. " Mr. Clark was cordially received by the Indian agent, Mr. Schoolcraft. 

In 1833, he visited Saut St. Mary, and found a revival in progress. Nearly all the officers, and thirty or forty soldiers, in Fort Bradyhad been converted. The command was soon after removed to Chicago, andwas succeeded by another. A gracious revival followed his labors atthe fort, and officers and soldiers were seen bowing at the samealtar, happy in the enjoyment of a common salvation. Still holding hisconnection with Green Bay, he visited that place and preached in FortHoward and also among his Indians who had removed to Duck Creek. 

At Ke-wee-naw, John Sunday commenced a mission among the Chippewas, and in 1834 Mr. Clark visited that interesting field. He continued tosuperintend the missions in this region, until he volunteered as amissionary for Texas, and the superintendence of the Indian missionwas given to the Rev. W. H. Brockway. The Rev. Mr. Pitezel labored atKe-wee-naw with great success for several years, preaching at thedifferent mines on the shores of Lake Superior. The Methodists alsoestablished a mission at Fon du Lac near the east shore of theWinnebago Lake. In the year 1830, a branch mission was organized amongthe Wyandottes and Shawnees on the Huron river, and also one among thePottawatimees at Fort Clark on the Fox river, at which place, in 1837, upward of one hundred were converted. 

In 1847 a mission was established at the Cliff Mine, on Eagle River, astream which empties into Lake Superior, about twenty miles west ofCopper Harbor. The Methodists have missions also at Ontonagon andCarp River, all of which are more or less prosperous. 

At present this church has maintained missions and schools among smallbands of Indians collected on reserves in Isabella and Oceana countiesin the lower peninsula of Michigan. The Indians at the old mission inthe vicinity of Saut St. Mary, are assembling at Iroquois Point at thelower end of Lake Superior, and are supplied with a missionary. Amission was also established in the Bay Shore Reservation, among theSaginaw Indians, which still exists. 

It is a matter of melancholy reflection, that the immense tribes, eachof which could muster thousands of warriors in this vast region, havedwindled down to small and feeble bands. The same remark will apply toall the tribes in North America. The race is rapidly passing away, andthe nation, like that of Edom, will at no distant day become entirelyextinct. The last report of the Secretary of the Interior, states, that the whole number of Indians within the limits of the States andTerritories of the Union, does not now exceed three hundred andtwenty-five thousand. 

CHAPTER IX. 

 Indian name of Michigan -- Islands -- Lanman's Summer in the wilderness -- Plains -- Trees -- Rivers -- A traditionary land -- Beautiful description -- Official report in relation to the trade of the lakes -- Green Bay -- Grand Traverse Bay -- Beaver Islands -- L'Arbre Croche -- Boundaries of Lake Michigan -- Its connections -- Railroad from Fort Wayne to Mackinaw -- Recent report of -- Amount completed -- Land grants. 

The Indian name of the State of Michigan, is Michi-sawg-ye-gan, themeaning of which in the Algonquin tongue is the Lake country. Surrounded as it is almost entirely by water, it possesses all theadvantages of an island. It has numerous streams which are clear andbeautiful, abounding in fish. The surface of the western half (weallude now to the lower or southern peninsula) is destitute of rocks, and undulating. In the language of Lanman in his "Summer in theWilderness, " "It is here that the loveliest of lakes and streams andprairies are to be found. No one who has never witnessed them canform any idea of the exquisite beauty of the thousand lakes which gemthe western part of Michigan. They are the brightest and purestmirrors the virgin sky has ever used to adorn herself. On the banks ofthese lakes, grow in rich profusion, the rose, the violet, the lilyand the sweet brier. 

"A great proportion of Michigan is covered with white-oak openings. Standing on a gentle hill, the eye wanders away for miles over anundulating surface, obstructed only by the trunks of loftytrees, --above you a green canopy, and beneath, a carpet of velvetgrass, sprinkled with flowers of every hue and form. 

"The prairies are another interesting feature of Michigan scenery. They meet the traveler at every point, and of many sizes, seemingoften like so many lakes, being often studded with wooded islands, andsurrounded by shores of forests. This soil is a deep black sand. Grassis their natural production, although corn, oats and potatoes flourishupon them. Never can I forget the first time I entered White PigeonPrairie. Sleeping beneath the shadows of sunset, as it was, the effectupon me was like that which is felt on first beholding theocean, --overpowering awe. All that the poet has said about thesegardens of the desert is true. 

"Burr Oak Plains. The only difference between these and the oakopenings, is the character of the trees and the evenness of theirsurface. The soil is a mixture of sand and black loam. They have theappearance of cultivated orchards, or English parks; and on placeswhere the foot of the white man has never trod, a carriage and fourcould easily pass through. They produce both wheat and corn. 

"The wet prairies have the appearance of submerged land. In them thegrass is often six or seven feet high. They are the resort ofwater-fowl, muskrats, and otters. 

"But the best and most fertile soil in Michigan is that designated bythe title of timbered land. It costs more to prepare it for theplough, but when once the soil is sown it yields a thousand-fold. Andwith regard to their beauty and magnificence, the innumerable forestsof this State are not surpassed by any in the world, whether weconsider the variety or grandeur of their production. This timber isneeded for prairie States, Lake cities, and exports. 

"A friend of mine, now residing in western Michigan, and who oncespent several years in Europe, thus writes respecting this region:

"'Oh, such trees as we have here! Magnificent, tall, large-leafed, umbrageous. Vallombrosa, the far-famed Vallombrosa of Tuscany, isnothing to the thousand Vallombrosas here! A fig for your Italianscenery! This is the country where nature reigns in her virgin beauty;where trees grow, where corn grows; where men grow better than they doanywhere else in the world. This is the land to study nature in allher luxuriant charms, under glorious green branches, among singingbirds and laughing streams; this is the land to hear the cooing of theturtle-dove, in far, deep, cool, sylvan bowers; to feel your soulexpand under the mighty influences of nature in her primitive beautyand strength. '

"The principal inland rivers of Michigan, are the Grand River, theKalamazoo, the St. Joseph, the Saginaw, and the Raisin. The firstthree empty into Lake Michigan, and are about seventy miles apart. Their average length is about two hundred and fifty miles, and theyare about thirty or forty rods in width. At present, they arenavigable about half their length for small steamboats and bateaux. Their bed is of limestone, covered with pebbles. I was a passenger onboard the Matilda Barney, on her first trip, --the first steamer thatever ascended the St. Joseph, which I consider the most perfectlybeautiful stream that I ever have seen. I remember well the manyflocks of wild turkeys and herds of deer that the 'iron horse'frightened in his winding career. The Indian canoe is now giving wayto the more costly but less beautiful row-boat, and those rivers arebecoming deeper and deeper every day. Instead of the howl of the wolf, the songs of husbandmen now echo through their vales, where may befound many comfortable dwellings. 

"The Saginaw runs toward the north and empties into Lake Huron, --thatsame Huron which has been celebrated in song by the young poet, LouisL. Noble. This river is navigable for sixty miles. The river Raisin isa winding stream, emptying into Lake Erie, called so from the quantityof grapes that cluster on its banks. Its Indian name is Nummasepee, signifying River of Sturgeons. Sweet river! whose murmurs have sooften been my lullaby, mayst thou continue in thy beauty forever. Arethere not streams like thee flowing through the paradise of God?

"Notwithstanding the comparative newness of Michigan, its generalaspect is ancient. The ruin of many an old fort may be discovered onits borders, reminding the beholder of wrong and outrage, blood andstrife. This was once the home of noble but oppressed nations. Herelived and loved the Algonquin and Shawnese Indians; the names ofwhose warrior chiefs--Pontiac the proud, and Tecumseh the brave--willlong be treasured in history. I have stood upon their graves, whichare marked only by a blighted tree and an unhewn stone, and havesighed deeply as I remembered their deeds. But they have gone--gonelike the lightning of a summer day!

"It is traditionary land. For we are told that the Indian hunters ofold saw fairies and genii floating over its lakes and streams, anddancing through its lonely forests. In these did they believe, and toplease them was their religion. 

"The historian, James H. Lanning, Esq. , of this State, thus writes, inalluding to the olden times: 'The streams rolled their liquid silverto the lake, broken only by the fish that flashed in their current, orthe swan that floated upon their surface. Vegetation flourished alone. Roses bloomed and died, only to be trampled by the deer or savage; andstrawberries studded the ground like rubies, where the green and sunnyhillsides reposed amid the silence, like sleeping infants in the lapof the forest. The rattlesnake glided undisturbed through itsprairies; and the fog which hung in clouds over its stagnant marshesspread no pestilence. The panther, the fox, the deer, the wolf, andbear, roamed fearless through the more remote parts of the domain, forthere were none to dispute with them their inheritance. But cloudsthickened. In the darkness of midnight, and silence of the wilderness, the tomahawk and scalping knife were forged for their work of death. Speeches were made by the savages under the voice-less stars, whichwere heard by none save God and their allies; and the war-song echoedfrom the banks of lakes where had never been heard the footsteps ofcivilized man. '

"Then followed the horrors of war; then and there were enacted thetriumphs of revenge. But those sounds have died away; traced only onthe page of history, those deeds. The voice of rural labor, the clinkof the hammer, and the sound of Sabbath-bells now echo in thoseforests and vales. The plough is making deep furrows in its soil, andthe sound of the anvil is in every part. A well-endowed University, and seminaries of learning are there. Railroads and canals, like veinsof health, are gliding to its noble heart. The red man, in hisoriginal grandeur and state of nature, has passed away from its morefertile borders; and his bitterest enemy, the pale face is master ofhis possessions. "

From a report made, by order of Congress, by Israel D. Andrews, in1853, in relation to the trade of the great lakes and rivers, weextract the following "Michigan is the second of the great lakes insize, being inferior only to Lake Superior, and in regard to situationand the quality of the surrounding soil and the climate is, in manyrespects, preferable to them all. Its southern extremity, rising southin fertile regions, nearly two degrees to the south of Albany, and thewhole of its great southern peninsula being imbosomed in fresh waters, its climate is mild and equable, as its soil is rich and productive. The lake is three hundred miles long by sixty in breadth, and containssixteen thousand nine hundred and eighty-one square miles, having amean depth of nine hundred feet. On the western shore it has the greatindentation of Green Bay; itself equal to the largest lakes inEngland, being one hundred miles long and thirty broad. It is wellsheltered at its mouth by the Traverse Islands, and has for itsaffluent the outlet of Winnebago and the Fox River. 

"Grand Traverse Bay is a considerable inlet of Lake Michigan, whichsets up into the lower peninsula, one hundred miles south from theIsland of Mackinac. It is a good farming and lumbering country. Thereare two mission stations and six or seven steam and water millslocated at this point. It is now an organized county called GrandTraverse. The county seat is at Grand Traverse City, West Bay, wherethey have a court-house and jail. 

"L'Arbre Croche Village is an old Indian town, situated abouttwenty-five miles southwest from Mackinaw, on the lower peninsula. Itis composed mostly of Indians. It has a Catholic Church and a HomeMission Station, with a teacher and other assistants to instruct theIndians in the English language. It has extensive clearings for miles, along the banks of the lake shore, and extending from one to six milesback into the interior, indicating that once a large population musthave inhabited this section of the country. 

"The principal tributaries of Lake Michigan are the Manistee, GreatKalamazoo, and St. Joseph's rivers, from the southern peninsula ofMichigan, the Des-Plaines, the O Plaines and Chee rivers, fromIndiana, Illinois, and from the northern peninsula, the Menominee, Escambia, Noquet, White Fish and Manistee rivers. The lake is boundedto the eastward by the rich and fertile land of the southernpeninsula, sending out vast quantities of all the cereal grains, equalif not superior in quality to any raised in the United States. It isbounded on the south and southwest by Indiana and Illinois, whichsupply corn and beef of the finest quality, in superabundance, forexportation. On the west it is bounded by the productive grain andgrazing lands and lumber district of Wisconsin, and on the northwestand north by the invaluable and not yet half-explored mineral districtof northern Michigan. 

"The natural outlet of its commerce, as of its waters, is by theStraits of Mackinaw into Lake Huron, thence by the St. Clair Riverdown to the lower marts. Of internal communications it alreadypossesses many, both by canal and railroad, equal to those almost ofany of the older States, in length and availability, and inferior tonone in importance. First, it has the Green Bay, Lake Winnebago, andFox River improvement connecting it with the Wisconsin River, by whichit has access to the Mississippi River, and thereby enjoys thecommerce of its upper valleys, and its rich lower lands and prosperousStates;--and second, the Illinois and Michigan canal, rendering thegreat commercial valley of the Illinois tributary to its commerce. Byrailways, perfected and projected, it has, or will soon have, connection with the Mississippi in its upper tributaries and leadregions by way of the Milwaukee and Mississippi, and Chicago andGalena lines. To the eastward, by the Michigan Central and SouthernRailroad, it communicates with the lake shore road, and thence withall the eastern lines from Buffalo to Boston. To the southward it willspeedily be united by the great system of projected railroads. 

"A road is now in progress extending from Fort Wayne, Indiana, toMackinaw. From a recent report made of this road, which will prove ofvast importance in developing the immense resources of Michigan, weextract the following:--

"The distance from point to point, as measured by the engineers, areas follow:

"From Fort Wayne to the 'Air-line Railroad, Indiana, 28 miles; theAir-line railroad, to Wolcottville, 6; Wolcottville to Lagrange, 10;Lagrange to Lima, 5; Lima to Sturgis, Mich. , 5-1/2; Sturgis to Mendon, 14; Mendon to Brady, 8; Brady to Kalamazoo, 12; Kalamazoo to GrandRapids, 47; Grand Rapids to Laphamville, 13; Laphamville to LittleTraverse Bay, 169; Little Traverse to the Straits of Mackinaw, 27. Total; 344. 

"The work of construction now performed, is mostly betweenWolcottville and Kalamazoo. Between Lagrange and Sturgis theearth-work and bridges are nearly done--$1, 500 will complete it forthe ties. About one-fourth of the earth-work, bridges and ties, of theremainder of the line from Wolcottville to Kalamazoo, is done. Between Kalamazoo and Grand Rapids, work to the amount of $8, 000 hasbeen done. 

"The construction of the road bed, bridging, ties, ballasting, &c. , from Kalamazoo to the north bank of the Muskegon River, one hundredand three miles, is let to Daniel Beckel, Esq. , of Dayton, Ohio. Neartwo hundred hands are engaged on the work--on the twenty miles northof Grand Rapids. It is the intention of the company, as we areinformed, to complete this twenty miles early the coming summer. 

"We are informed by the annual report, that on July 21st, $216, 316 18had been collected and expended. 

"The land grant made by Congress is of great value. The portion of theroad to which it attaches, extends from Grand Rapids to LittleTraverse Bay; the precise length of which is, as adopted by the properdepartments at Washington, one hundred and eighty-two miles and threethousand and sixty-seven feet. Under the rules of adjustment adoptedby the department, the quantity of lands granted will be somewherefrom 600, 000 to 674, 161 acres. 

"These lands are generally timbered farm lands--of the best quality, in timber, soil and water. Some are pine lands, some pine and hardwood mixed; and a small portion are cedar swamp lands. But there isnone too much of either description for the value of the lands and theprosperity of the country. Nature has distributed and interspersedthem in such proportions as will best contribute to the support of apopulous and well improved agricultural country. The great bulk ofthese lands are what are generally denominated 'beech and sugar-treelands. ' The soil is generally rich sandy loam. The estimated value ofthe lands, when the road is completed, has been put, by differentparties, from $4 to $10 per acre. 

"The lands granted are the odd numbered sections within six miles ofthe line; and if any such sections are sold or pre-empted, then thecompany has the right to select other sections outside of the sixmiles and within fifteen miles of the road, to make up such deficit. 

"The odd numbered sections, outside of the six-mile limits, and withinthe fifteen-mile limits, are set apart to this company, out of whichto select lands to make up any deficit that may occur in the sixmiles. 

"By those best acquainted with the value of these lands--and who arefamiliar with that portion of the State--they are estimated at $10per acre, on the completion of the road. This will give the companythe sum of $6, 600, 000. And if the road when fully equipped costs$30, 000 per mile, then the gross cost will be $10, 500, 000; which bythe proceeds of the land grant will be reduced to the sum of$3, 900, 000, and will reduce the actual cost of the road to $11, 142, 85per mile. Anything like fair success in the construction of the roadwill enable the company to do it, after applying the proceeds of theland grant, for about _eleven thousand dollars per mile_. Such aresult will not only give to the country all the advantages of thismuch-needed work; but when done the capital stock must prove to be agood paying investment. "

CHAPTER X. 

 Mackinaw, the site for a great central city -- The Venice of the lakes -- Early importance as a central position -- Nicolet -- Compared geographically with other points -- Immense chain of coast -- Future prospects -- Temperature -- Testimony of the Jesuit fathers -- Healthfulness of the climate -- Dr. Drake on Mackinaw -- Resort for invalids -- Water currents of commerce -- Surface drained by them -- Soil of the northern and southern peninsulas of Michigan -- Physical resources -- Present proprietors of Mackinaw -- Plan of the city -- Streets -- Avenues -- Park -- Lots and blocks for churches and public purposes -- Institutions of learning and objects of benevolence -- Fortifications -- Docks and ferries -- Materials for building -- Harbors -- Natural beauty of the site for a city -- Mountain ranges -- Interior lakes -- Fish -- Game. 

Ferris, in his "States and Territories of the Great West, " says: "Ifone were to point out, on the map of North America, a site for a greatcentral city in the lake region, it would be in the immediate vicinityof the Straits of Mackinaw. A city so located would have the commandof the mineral trade, the fisheries, the furs, and the lumber, of theentire North. It might become the metropolis of a great commercialempire. It would be the Venice of the Lakes. " Mackinaw, both straitsand peninsula, was so naturally the key point of the great system ofnorthern lakes and their connection with the Mississippi, that whilethe New England colonies were yet but infant and feeble settlements, the Indians of the northwest, the Jesuit missionaries, the Frenchvoyagers, all made Mackinaw the point from whence they diverged--inall directions. When Philadelphia and Baltimore had not begun, andwhen the sites of Pittsburg, Cincinnati, and St. Louis were unknownplaces in the wilderness, Nicolet took his departure from Quebec insearch of the mysterious river of the west. In passing to meet theIndians at Green Bay, he was the first to notice the Straits ofMackinaw. About thirty years after, James Marquette established, onthe northern shore of the straits, the Mission of St. Ignace. Here, amidst the wilds and solitudes of the North American forests, and onthe shores of its great inland seas, Marquette and Joliet plannedtheir expedition as we have already described, and it was Mackinaw andnot New Orleans or New York that the lines radiated from to theearliest settlements of the west. 

Mackinaw presents one of the most remarkable geographical positionson the earth. Constantinople on the Bosphorus, the Straits ofGibraltar, Singapore on the Strait of Malacca, and the Isthmus ofPanama, are the only ones which seem to present a parallel. The twoformer have been for ages renowned as the most important in thecommercial world. Singapore has rapidly become the key and centre ofAsiatic navigation, at which may be found the shipping and people ofall commercial nations, and Panama is now the subject of negotiationamong the most powerful nations with a view to the exceedingimportance of its commercial position. Geographically, Mackinaw is notinferior to either. From the northwest to the southeast, midland ofthe North American continent, there stretches a vast chain of lakesand rivers dividing the continent nearly midway. This chain of Lakesand rivers is in the whole nearly three thousand miles long. At theStraits of Mackinaw the whole system of land and water centres. Thethree greatest lakes of this system, Superior, Huron, and Michigan, are spread around, pointing to the straits, while between them threevast peninsulas of land press down upon the waters until they arecompressed into a river of four miles in width. On the north is thepeninsula of Canada, on the south that of Michigan, and on the westthat of the copper region, all of which are divided only by the narrowStraits of Mackinaw. Here are three inland seas of near eightythousand square miles and about five thousand miles of coast. Fromcoast to coast and isle to isle of this immense expanse of waters, navigation must be kept up, increasing with the ever-increasingpopulation on their shores till tens of millions are congregatedaround. Of all this vast navigation and increasing commerce, Mackinawis the natural centre around which it exists, and toward which it musttend by an inevitable law of necessity. Superior, Huron, and Michiganhave no water outlet to each other but that which flows through theStraits of Mackinaw, and its geographical position is unrivaled inAmerica. Whoever lives twenty years from this time will find Mackinawa populous and wealthy city, the Queen of the Lakes. 

If any serious objection be made to the site of a city at this place, it can only be that the climate is _supposed_ to be cold. But, what isclimate? Climate is relative and composed of many elements. The firstis temperature, as determined by latitude. The Straits of Mackinaw arein the _latitude_ of 45° 46'. North of this lies a part of Canada, containing at least a million of inhabitants. North of this latitudelies the city of Quebec in America; London, Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna, Warsaw, Copenhagen, Moscow, and St. Petersburg, in Europe;Odessa and Astracan, in Asia. North of it, are in Prussia, Poland, andRussia, dense populations, and a great agricultural production. Thelatitude of Mackinaw, therefore, is in the midst of that temperatezone, where commerce, population, cities, and the arts have mostflourished. The climate, however, is actually milder than the latituderepresents. The isothermal line, which passes through Mackinaw, alsopasses in Wisconsin, nearly as low as 43°, and in the east alsodeflects south. This is the true line of vegetation; and thus itappears that the actual climate of Mackinaw is about that of 43° 30'. The same isothermal line, passes through Prussia and Poland, thefinest grain countries of Europe. The climate of the straits is, therefore, as favorable as that of most civilized States, either forthe production of food or the pursuits of commerce. 

The Marquette Journal gives some items relative to the winter of thatlocality. The mercury was not below zero until the evening of January8th, and then only 2° below. The highest point reached in January, was20° above, and lowest 16° below zero. In February, the highest pointwas 55° above, the lowest 20° below zero. The average temperature forthe three winter months had been about 15° above zero. In the"Relations of the Jesuits, " 3d. Volume, 1671, it is stated that the"winter in Mackinaw is short, not commencing until after Christmas andclosing the middle of March, at which time spring begins. "

The Lake Superior Journal for February 23, 1859, says:--

"We are now within five days of the first spring month, and havescarcely had a brush of winter yet. But very few days has thethermometer been below zero, and but a single day as low as tendegrees below. Most of the time it has been mild. For two weeks past, there has been a blandness and mellowness in the atmosphere, which wasenough to cause the moodiest heart to sing for joy. There was aflare-up, however, for a single day (the 20th), when the stormdescended, the wind blew, and there was great commotion in theelements, but the next day all was calm and delightful as before. Wehave quite a depth of snow on the ground, have had fine sleighingsince the 10th of November. But our bay has not been closed more thana week at a time this winter, and but a few days in all. It is opennow, and 'the stern monarch of the year, ' seems to be melting awayinto spring. 

"In regard to the healthfulness of Mackinaw, it may be remarked thatthe northern regions of the earth are everywhere the most healthy. Yetthere are differences in situation and exposure which make differencesin health. Mackinaw has now been known and settled for two hundredyears, a period long enough to have both tested its healthiness, andcreated a permanent reputation. The Jesuit Missionaries, the frontiertraders, and the French voyageurs, have lived and died there; yet wehave never heard of any prevalent disease, or local miasm. It seems tohave been the favorite resort of all the frontiers men, who inhabitedor hunted in the region of the Northern Lakes. In recent years, it hasbeen visited by men of science, and accomplished physicians, and theirreport has been uniformly in favor of its superior healthiness. Dr. Drake, who visited Mackinaw in 1842, for the express purpose ofexamining the climate and topography, says, 'From this description, itappears, that the conditions which are held to be necessary to thegeneration of autumnal fever, are at their _minimum_ in this place;and when we consider this fact, with its latitude nearly 46°, and itsaltitude above the sea, from six to eight hundred feet, we areprepared to find it almost exempt from that disease; and such fromthe testimony of its inhabitants is the fact, especially in referenceto the intermittent fevers, which, I was assured by many respectablepersons, never originated among the people, and would ceasespontaneously in those who returned, or came with it from otherplaces. '

"Speaking of this region as a place of resort for invalids, the samewriter says:

"'The three great reservoirs of clear and cold water, Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, with the Island of Mackinac in theirhydrographical centre, offer a delightful hot-weather asylum to allinvalids who need an escape from the crowded cities, paludalexhalations, sultry climates and officious medication. Lake Erie liestoo far south, and is bordered by too many swamps to be included inthe salutiferous group. '

"'On reaching Mackinaw, an agreeable change of climate is at onceexperienced. ' 'To his jaded sensibilities all around him is fresh andinvigorating. '" Dr. Drake looked upon Mackinaw as one of thehealthiest portions of the whole Northwest, and to which, in time, tens of thousands of persons, even from the furthest south, wouldresort to be reinvigorated in body, refreshed in mind, and delightedwith the contemplation of the sublime and beautiful scenery in thatregion of expansive waters, of rocky coasts, of forest-bearing lands, and distant islands. 

"Here the great currents, which are the natural lines of _movement_for the people, commerce, and productions of half North America, concentrate around a single point. No other place has the sameadvantage of _radial lines_. Quebec is relatively on the Atlantic. Theupper end of Lake Superior is comparatively on an inhospitable land. Chicago is at a lateral point on the south end of Lake Michigan, --threehundred miles from the main channel of commerce. At Mackinawconcentrate all the radial lines of water navigation in the upperlakes. Which will be seen, if we take the following distances ofdirect navigation from this point to the principal points on the upperlakes:

"From Mackinaw to Fon du Lac (west end of Lake Superior), 550 miles;to Chicago, 350; to east end of Georgian Bay, 300; to Detroit, 300; toBuffalo, 700; to Gulf of St. Lawrence, 1, 600. 

"Here are two important points to be observed. Any city which, bycompetition, or the rivalry of production, or the power of wealth, canbe supposed to interfere with the growth of Mackinaw, must arise onLakes Michigan or Superior; for _there_ only can be any commercialmart to receive and distribute the products around those immensebodies of water. But in consequence of the form and surface of thoselakes, no lines of transit to the waters of the St. Lawrence can bemade so short or cheap as the water transit through the Straits ofMackinaw. The concentration of products will, therefore, be ultimatelymade at Mackinaw, for all that immense district of country which liesaround the upper lakes. Again, it will be seen that as the watertransportation to that point is the best, so the radial line from thatpoint to the Atlantic by water, is much the shortest. A steampropeller, leaving any one of the principal points on the upper lakesfor either Buffalo or the Gulf of St. Lawrence, must, as compared withMackinaw, pass over the following lines of transit, viz. , From Fon duLac (west end of Lake Superior) to Buffalo, 1, 250 miles; Chicago, Ill. , 1, 000; Mackinaw, Michigan, 700; Fon du Lac to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 2, 150; Chicago to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 1, 900; Mackinawto the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 1, 600. 

"It must be granted, at once, that for any water communication withthe ports of the Atlantic, Mackinaw has greatly the advantage over anycommercial point in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Northern Illinois, NorthernMichigan, or Northwest Canada. How great this advantage is, we shallsee from the consideration of the surface drained by the watercurrent of Mackinaw. An inspection of the map will show that from LongLake, above latitude 50°, to the south end of Lake Michigan, belowlatitude, 40°, and from the Lake of the Woods, longitude 95°, toSaginaw Bay, longitude 83°, the country is entirely within thedrainage of lakes and river whose currents concentrate at the Straitsof Mackinaw. This surface comprehends a square of over six hundredmiles on the side, or nearly four hundred thousand square miles. Deducting the surface of the lakes, it is enough to make eight Statesas large as Ohio. In that whole surface, there is not a single pointwhich can rival Mackinaw as a point of _distribution for the productsof that country_. That the advantage by water lines is in favor ofMackinaw, we have shown. That it will be equally so by railroad, isevident, from the fact that Mackinaw city to Port Huron, and thence toBuffalo, need not exceed four hundred miles, while that from Chicagoto Buffalo, in a direct line is five hundred and fifteen miles. 

"From any other point of Lakes Michigan or Superior, where a city canbe built, it is further. Mackinaw is, therefore, the natural centre ofdrainage and distribution for a surface equal to that of eight largeStates, and whose products, whether of field, fruit, or mines, aresuperabundant in whatever creates commerce, sustains population, oraffords the materials of industry. 

"We are now considering Mackinaw in a state of nature, and must lookto its natural products as the first and greatest elements of success. We have considered its climate, its water currents, its lines ofnavigation, and the surface drainage for its support. The latterwithin a space where there can be no competition, we have found to bebut little less than 400, 000 square miles. Vast as this is, it couldnot support a great commercial city, if that were a barren plain. 

"Hence, we must now consider how far the products of the earth willsustain the city, which such lines of navigation, such means ofcommerce, and such an extensive, surface leads us to anticipate. 

"The soil is the first thing to be examined. The peninsula ofMichigan--that of Wisconsin and the Copper region--of Minnesota andCanada, which make up the larger portion of surface drained by thecurrents of Mackinaw, has been supposed to be cold and wet. But is itmore so than northwestern Ohio or northern Illinois, which, but twentyyears since, were scarcely inhabited, but now are found to afford someof the richest lands in the country? On this point, we have numerousand competent witnesses, and whatever character they give to thecountry, we shall adopt as the true criterion of its producingresources. 

"First of the Superior Country, the least agricultural portion of thisdistrict, we have the concurrent testimony of geologists, miners, settlers, and travelers, that it is one of the richest miningdistricts in the world. But in the midst of it are found some fertilesections. Of these, Mr. Ferris, in his account of the Great West, says: 'The surveyors report some good agricultural lands (of whichmany townships are specially enumerated), and these tracts of fertileland will become of great value, when the rivers shall have beenopened and a mining population introduced, creating a sure andconvenient home market for the productions of the farm. '

"_Disturnell_, an accurate authority, speaking of the Superior region, says: 'The traveler finds the whole district to within a few miles ofLake Superior, abounding in every resource which will make a countrywealthy and prosperous. Clear, beautiful lakes are interspersed, andthese have plenty of large trout and other fish. Water and waterpowers are everywhere to be found, and the timber is of the bestkind--maple groves, beech, oak, pine, etc. No thing is now wanted buta few roads to open this rich country to the settler, and it willsoon teem with villages, schools, mills, farming operations, and everyindustrial pursuit, which the more southern portion of our State nowexhibits. '

"Turning to the immense territory north and northwest of Superior andthe Straits, now constituting a portion of the British Dominions, andevery part of which must be tributary to Mackinaw, we find that itaffords, like Prussia and Poland, a fine agricultural region for allthe breadstuffs and vegetables which are raised in the northern partof Europe. A writer in the _Toronto Globe_, exhibiting the value of acanal from Georgian Bay to Toronto--(a canal, the whole commerce ofwhich coming from the northwest, must first have passed the Straits ofMackinaw) says: 'Westward we possess vast and fertile countriesadapted to all the pursuits of agriculture life, countries susceptibleto the highest cultivation and improvement. Between Lake Superior andthe Lake of the Woods (above 49° of latitude), we possess a country ofthis description, in soil and character inferior to no part ofMinnesota, and bordering upon this territory lies the valley of theAssinibone, or the Red River, as it is sometimes called. As a wheatgrowing country, it will rival Canada. It does so now in soil andclimate. ' The writer is here speaking of British possessions north ofLake Superior, and several degrees north of Mackinaw. He says theyare as fertile and grain-growing as Canada, and Canada we know alreadyproduces not only its own breadstuffs, but large quantities forexportation. The valley of the Assinibone, referred to, and the wholeregion west of Superior to the Lake of the Woods and the Red River, can have no market outlet except through Lake Superior, and thencenear the Straits of Mackinaw. The writer sees this, and says: 'Thefuture products of these immense countries must seek the seaboard, andall the canals and railroads which can be constructed will scarcesuffice to afford facilities for the products of the West. '

"Let us next examine the Southern Peninsula of Michigan. If thecountry far north of it is so productive, it can scarcely happen thatthis can be very deficient, although not ranked among the most fertiledistricts. On this point, we need only cite the same accurateauthority to which we have referred. He says: 'The numerous streamswhich penetrate every portion of the peninsula, some of which arenavigable for steamboats a considerable distance from the lake, beingnatural outlets for the products of the interior, render this wholeregion desirable for purposes of settlement and cultivation. ' Even asfar north as the Straits of Mackinaw, the soil and climate, togetherwith the valuable timber, offer great inducements to settlers; and ifthe proposed railroads under the recent grant of large portion ofthese lands by Congress, are constructed from and to the differentpoints indicated, this extensive and heavily timbered region willspeedily be reclaimed, and become one of the most substantial andprosperous agricultural portions of the West. ' After speaking of thetimber in that country, the same writer adds: 'But as the timber isexhausted, the soil is prepared for cultivation, and a large portionof the _northern part_ of the southern peninsula of Michigan will besettled and cultivated, as it is _the most reliable wheat-growingportion of the Union_. '

"The Detroit Daily Tribune of 1857, says: "Michigan is greatlyundervalued because greatly unknown. The tide of emigration sweepspast us to Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, because the publicdo not know--what is but the sober truth--that Michigan possessesadvantages unrivaled by any sister State in the Northwest, and anundeveloped wealth that will far exceed any one of those named. Thisis not a random statement, originating in State pride orself-interest, but the simple truth which is slowly being found out bythe shrewd among men. We propose to speak of some of the advantageswhich we possess in the northern half of our lower peninsula, as yetalmost uninhabited and unknown. 

"'No other State can boast of such valuable forests of such perfecttimber. Already our lumber trade exceeds in value and importance thatin any other staple products, not excepting wheat, while if it were toincrease in the ratio of the past five years, in five years more itwould exceed all the other staples united, excepting only copper. Butsuch a rate of increase would exhaust the pine timber to a greatextent within ten years' time. Yet the demand for pine lumber isabsolutely unlimited, and cannot be met. 

"Look for a moment at the vast region depending upon the pineries ofMichigan for its supply of lumber for building purposes of everykind--houses, fence and shelter of every description. The great Statesof Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, and the Territory of Minnesota, depend almost solely upon Michigan, and must do so. The presentseason, lumber has been taken from the forest of southwestern New Yorkand northern Pennsylvania, and sold in the market of St. Louis, sourgent is the demand and so entirely inadequate are the present orprospective rates of supply for that demand. We have before us thestatistics of the lumber trade of the different States and theprincipal markets in the country, but of what use is a parade offigures when a simple fact will show that the value of the pine forestof Michigan _must_ be? Take the State Iowa alone. If every quartersection were to be enclosed with a common post and board fence, itwould take every foot of pine on the soil of Michigan! Leave out ofsight the great Territory of Minnesota, which can find but a mere dropof supply from the pineries of the Upper Mississippi. Leave out ofsight the great State of Illinois, which depends upon us wholly. Forget entirely that villages are springing up like magic all alongthe lines of a dozen railroads running from Lake Michigan to theMississippi; that cities are growing and spreading with unprecedentedrapidity--and that every town and village, and city, and farm, musthave its dwellings, and that the cheapest and best material forconstruction is pine. Leave all these out of the calculation, andremember only that one of these States would consume all our vastforests of pine in _fence boards alone_, and the dullest comprehensioncan perceive, with all these other demands of which we have spoken, inall those other regions, the value of the pine region is as certain asthough it were a gold mine. And when we consider the pressing need formaterial whereof to build over all the western prairies, the wealthof northern Michigan cannot be put at any low amount. It must beimmense--untold. 

"After the timber shall have been removed in obedience to the pressingdemands of a cash market and high prices, the value of northernMichigan will just begin to be developed. The soil possesses riches ofwhich the heavy growth of timber is the outcropping. Rich as anyprairie land, even more substantial in the elements of fertility, witha genial climate, southern Michigan, itself a garden, we predict willhave to yield the palm of productive wealth to this portion of theState. Any one who will take the trouble to examine a map of this halfof the State, projected on an extended scale, cannot fail to be struckwith the superabundant water privileges that exist. It is literallycovered with navigable rivers, and their tributaries, large streams, like the veins in the human system. These waters reach the remotestpart and thread every portion, affording unfailing supplies andthousands of valuable sites for mills of every description and of allmagnitudes. The State is divided near its geographical centre by aslight ridge, sufficient to divide the course of its streams. Two ofthe largest rivers of the State, the Manistee and the Eastern AuSauble, rise within about three miles of each other, run parallel, southward, for twenty miles or more, approaching then within half amile of each other, then turning abruptly almost due east and west, emptying into Lakes Michigan and Huron respectively on almost the sameparallel of latitude. 

"The Grand Traverse region, embracing the valley of the Manistee, isalso one of the finest agricultural regions of the State; lying in thenortherly portion, this region still has a mild climate, and thefinest grains and fruits are raised at the settlements, as far northas the bay. 

"Much might be said of other counties throughout this region. Thewhole slope of the peninsula embracing the courses of the Muskegon andManistee Rivers, and from Grand River to Mackinaw, is a region of richsoil, excellent timber of all kinds, good climate, and of easy access. 

"The counties in the eastern part of the State, Alpena, Alcona, Iosco, Arrenac, and others north of Saginaw Bay, well situated, having alarge extent of coast on Lake Huron, are not so well adapted foragricultural purposes, there is much good farming land in them all;but the forests of pine extending to within a few miles of the coast, render them very desirable. Alcona county, watered by Thunder BayRiver, with some smaller streams emptying into Lake Huron, is almostwholly a pine region. Some of the finest specimens of yellow, orNorway pine, in the whole State are found in this country. The whiteand yellow pine is nearly equally distributed in this region, extending also into the counties south, and reaching Rifle River inSaginaw and Arrenac counties, having an outlet on Saginaw Bay. 

"This part of the State, upon whose advantages we have not space toparticularize as we would like, will be very soon penetrated byrailroads. 

"There are _three_ roads contemplated by the Act of Congress grantinglands to this State at its last session. These, if built, will addmore to the development of the natural wealth of Michigan thananything heretofore proposed in the way of public improvement. 

"The different routes pass through some of the best counties in theState, and the opening of such thoroughfares will induce a tide ofemigration, such as will soon render northern Michigan what it oughtto be, one of the most important points in the West. 

"The State of Michigan is in all respects more favorably situated thanany of the Western States, being surrounded by the lakes and withrailroads extending in every direction, affording the mostextraordinary opportunities to reach markets of every class, great orsmall. 

"With these natural advantages of transportation considered with theimmense natural resources of this region (soil and timber) no one willdoubt the very great value of Michigan lands. 

"Fruit of all kinds is abundant in every part of this State. All ourexchanges from the interior are acknowledging presents of lusciouspeaches, plums, pears, apples, etc. , etc. This is as it should be. Maythey all, each succeeding year, be remembered in like manner. 

"What is here said of the northern part of Michigan, is directlyapplicable to Wisconsin, the northern half of which must contributedirectly to Mackinaw. Of the agricultural capacity of this new State, we need say no more, than that it has already attained half a millionof inhabitants, and pours forth its surplus products though the portsof Lake Michigan. 

"Of Minnesota, and its productiveness, less is known. As three-fourthsof that rich and beautiful country, and the regions around the headsof the Mississippi, must contribute to the commercial importance ofMackinaw, let us glance at its agricultural capacity and prospects. Minnesota, of which we heard but yesterday, has now two hundredthousand inhabitants, produces this year two millions of bushels ofwheat. St. Paul, its principal town has fourteen thousand inhabitants, and far to the northwest from St. Peters to the Red River, andAssinibone, the settlers are crowding in to till farms and createtowns, where but recently the wild wolf and the wilder savage, alonepossessed the face of the earth. In latitudes higher than that ofMackinaw, Michigan or Canada West, settlements are forming, and itrequires no flight of imagination to see that beautiful land of lakes, rivers, forests, and prairies, --cold as it may be in winter--settled, tilled, and civilized. The fact of its rapid progress in population, is sufficient proof of its agricultural capacity; but we shall againrefer to the testimony of actual observers. Turning to Mr. Ferris'sfirst description of the Northwest, we find his summing of theclimate, and agricultural advantages of Upper Minnesota. 'Minnesota isdestined to become a great agricultural, and grazing region. Itsupland and lowland plains would support a dairy that would enrich anempire. All the principal grains, and roots thrive there in greatvigor, as high toward the north as Pembina, below the dividing linebetween the United States and British America. Latitude does notalways indicate the climate as has already been shown. The characterof the soil has great influence upon the temperature of the air. Aquick warm soil makes a warm atmosphere. The autumns of Minnesota aregreatly lengthened out by the Indian summer, that smoky, dreary, balmyseason, which protects the surface from frost, like a mantle flungupon the earth. The cold nips the vegetation, about as early along theOhio, as along the St. Peters. The winters of Minnesota are cold; butthen they are still and calm, and the icy air does not penetrate, asit does in a windy climate. '

"In the brief review of the agricultural advantages of that greatnorthwestern region, whose centre of commerce must ever be atMackinaw; we have arrived at the certain fact, that except smallportions of the Superior country, where mining and mines absorb allother interests, no country in the northern part of America or Europe, has greater advantages. It is filled with inexhaustible springs, andstreams; fertile in soil, rich in production, and only needs thecultivating hand of man, to render it capable of sustaining such densepopulations as now inhabit the same isothermal parallel in Prussia andPoland. 

"Let us now turn to its forests, mines, fisheries and resources, whichthough not bread, are those from which the implements, conveniences, and much of the wealth of civilization is derived. Of forests, furnishing almost illimitable quantities of timber and lumber--this isthe very centre. Of this, we have evidence in the wharves of Chicago, Milwaukee, Detroit, and far down the lakes. The testimony of actualobservers on this point, is so strong as to seem almost incredible. Weshall cite but two or three unquestionable authorities. The peninsula, of Michigan is at the present moment, one of the greatest depositoriesof lumber in the world. Mr. Ferris says: 'On going toward the north, the lumber becomes more and more plentiful. Beeches begin to minglewith the oaks, and in a day or two beeches and maples will predominateover other varieties of timbers; large white-woods and bass-woods willbe seen towering above the forest. The white ash, the shag bark, theblack cherry, will have become abundant. The woods will seem to havebeen growing deeper and denser every mile of the way. Soon thetraveler will doubt, whether Omnipotence himself could have plantedthe trees larger, taller, and thicker together, than they are. '

"Pressing still forward, the emigrant will enter the great pine woodsof the north. For a while, however, before reaching them, he will havebeen wandering through groves of oak, and along the borders ofnatural meadows, and through clumps of beech and maple. But soon, aswith a single step, the timber has become all pine--yellow pine, moaning overhead, darkening all the ground, shutting out the sun, shutting out the wind. " The tall trunks support the dark green canopyfull fifty feet above the earth. This belt of pine woods, stretchesacross the peninsula of Michigan from Saginaw Bay. After a while asyou proceed further to the north, the pine grows thinner, and issucceeded by other timber. "The level lands again become covered withbeech and maple, of a full and convenient growth, with here and therea gigantic Norway pine, six feet through without limb, till it beginsto stretch up half its length above the surrounding trees. 

"In northern Wisconsin, we find another great pinery, in which, in oneyear, was sawed not less than two hundred millions of feet of pinetimber. The same authority to which we have frequently referred, says:"Still further north and northwest, is one of the finest tracts ofpine land in America, through which the streams tumbling down frequentfalls, afford an incalculable amount of water-power, just where it ismost needed for the manufacture of lumber. The Wisconsin forest ofevergreens is perfectly immense, covering one-third the State. Theprairies of the Upper Wisconsin and its tributaries, are at thepresent most extensive, and those are distinguished still more for thefine quality, than for the inexhaustible quantities of the timber. "

In the same manner, an immense forest extends over the upper part ofMinnesota, while far to the northwest in the British possessions, extend deep forests of pine, spruce, and hemlock. It is evident, therefore, that on the great current of the Straits of Mackinaw, therewill float for generations to come, all the timber and lumber, whichare necessary for the markets of commerce, or the uses of a growingpopulation. 

Nor are the fisheries to be neglected, in any right estimate of thenatural resources of that region. Not only do the one hundred thousandsquare miles of lakes and streams, furnish illimitable quantities offish; but they furnish varieties, which are nowhere else to be found, and which an epicurean taste has long since pronounced among therichest luxuries of the palate. The lake trout, the Mackinaw trout, the Muskelunge, and the white fish, are celebrated throughout America. Good fishing grounds occur all along the north shore of Lake Superior, affording a bountiful supply. On the south shore, there are fisheriesat White Fish Point, Grand Island near the Pitcairn's Rodes, KeweenawPoint, La Point, and Apostles' Islands, and at different stations onIsle Royal, where large quantities are taken and exported. MackinacIsland alone exports yearly a quarter million of dollars' worth. 

The site of Old Mackinaw, now the county seat of Emmet county, and itssurroundings, belonged to the Government of the United States untilthe year 1853, when Edgar Conkling, Esq. , of Cincinnati, realizing itsimportance as a vast commercial centre, and one of the finestpositions for a great city, formed a company consisting of sevenpersons, and entered at the Land Office in Ionia, Michigan, near onethousand eight hundred acres. In 1857 that portion embracing theancient site of Old Mackinaw was surveyed and divided into lots. Mr. Conkling has, recently, become the sole proprietor of the city, andintends devoting his energies to its development. A pamphlet, published some time since, describes it as follows:

"The streets of the city are laid out eighty feet in width, and theavenues from a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet respectively. Inthe deed of dedication to the public, of these streets and avenues, provision is made for side-walks fifteen feet in width on each side, to be forever unobstructed by improvements of any kind, shade treesexcepted, thus securing a spacious promenade worthy of a placedestined to become a principal resort for health and pleasure. Provision is also made for the proper use of the streets and avenuesby railroad companies adequate to the demands of the business of acity. The lots, with the exception of those in fractional blocks, arefifty by one hundred and fifty feet, thus affording ample room forpermanent, convenient, and ornamental improvement. "

The park, now laid off and dedicated to the city, embraces the groundsof Old Fort Mackinaw, sacred in the history of the country. Thesegrounds, now in their natural condition, are unequaled for beauty ofsurface, location, soil, trees, etc. , by any park in any city in thecountry, and when the skillful hand of the horticulturist has markedits outline and threaded it with avenues and paths, pruned its trees, and carpeted its surface with green, it will present the veryperfection of all that makes a park delightful. The character of thesoil, being a sandy loam, with sand and gravel underlying it, rendersit capable of the easiest and most economical improvement, securingwalks always dry, hard, and smooth. The park, with suitable blocks andlots for county and city purposes, such as public buildings, schoolhouses, etc. , will be duly appropriated to those uses, wheneverthe proper authorities are prepared to select suitable sites; and lotsfor churches, institutions of learning, and charity, will be fullydonated to parties contemplating early improvements. Thus theproprietor proposes to anticipate, by avoiding the errors of oldercities, the wants of Mackinaw city in perpetuity, and free forever itscitizens from taxation for any grounds required for the public good. He also designs to place it in the power of the General Government, tosecure, by like donation at an early day, the grounds necessary forsuch fortifications as the wants of the country and commerce mayrequire, on the simple condition of speedy improvement. This liberalpolicy will best promote the true interests of the city and country, and at the same time be productive of pecuniary profit to theproprietors and all who may make investments at that point. 

The proprietor intends also to expend a large portion of the incomefrom sales in providing for the public wants by the construction ofdocks at the most important points, and the establishment of ferries, for which he has purchased the land on the opposite side of thestraits. He intends to make loans also, as his means will justify, toaid parties in the establishment of manufactories. 

Building materials of great variety and in abundance are at hand. Lumber can be had for the mere cost of preparation, and the soil, atno distant point, is suitable for making bricks; while for immediateuse, Milwaukee can furnish the articles of the best kind in anyquantities. The shores of Lake Superior abound with exhaustlessquantities of granite, sandstone and marble; the limestone and sandare on the spot. 

Three fine harbors adjoin Mackinaw; the one on the east being the mostspacious, and the best protected. The new United States charts showthe depth of water sufficient for vessels of the largest sizenavigating the lakes. As many as thirty vessels have been at anchor inthis harbor. The country in the rear of Mackinaw rises graduallyuntil, at the distance of a mile or two, it rises into an elevation ofhigh table land, from points of which there is a fine view of thestraits and surrounding islands. A mountainous ridge extends up towithin two miles of Mackinaw, covered with a dense forest of hardwood. The southern extremity of this range reaches to the head watersof the Grand and Saginaw rivers. From two to ten miles south ofMackinaw are several beautiful lakes, surrounded by a rich, warm soilof great fertility and covered with a heavy forest of hard wood, someof which has attained a gigantic growth. These lakes abound with fishof different varieties. Turtles have been taken from them, measuringfrom one and a half to two feet in diameter. Almost every kind of gamecan be found in the woods bordering upon these lakes, such as theblack bear, raccoon, martin, fox, lynx, rabbit, ducks, partridges andpigeons. 

CHAPTER XI. 

 The entrepot of a vast commerce -- Surface drained -- Superiority of Mackinaw over Chicago as a commercial point -- Exports and imports -- Michigan the greatest lumber-growing region in the world -- Interminable forests of the choicest pine -- Facilities for market -- Annual product of the pineries -- Lumbering, mining and fishing interests -- Independent of financial crises -- Mackinaw, the centre of a great railroad system -- Lines terminating at this point -- North and South National Line -- Canada grants -- Growth of northwestern cities -- Future growth and prosperity of Mackinaw -- Chicago -- Legislative provisions for opening roads in Michigan -- The Forty Acre Homestead Bill -- Its provisions. 

The physical resources of this region are of such a nature and varietyas to make Mackinaw city the entrepot of a vast commerce. This willappear, if we consider that it is the nearest point of that extensivedistrict, including the entire north of the lakes inaccessible toChicago. When all the lines of internal communication are completed, and the different points on the lakes settled down upon, then thereal limits of Mackinaw will drain a geographical surface of threehundred thousand square miles; deducting the surface of the lakes fromwhich, there will remain two hundred and eighty thousand square milesof country, with all the resources of agriculture and mining in themost extraordinary degree. It will be nearly three-fold that which canbe drained by Chicago, and in point of territory, whether of quantityor quality, Mackinaw is vastly superior, as a commercial point. Withthe exception of a small portion of the mineral region, theagricultural advantages of Michigan, Upper Wisconsin, Minnesota, Canada West, and the Superior country, are at least equal, at thepresent time, to the district shipping at Chicago, while it is moreextensive, and will have a large home market in a country affordingdiversity of employment. Nothing can be more obvious, than thesuperior advantages of Mackinaw, as a manufacturing point, over anyother on the lake coast. 

The value of exports and imports which flow through the Straits ofMackinaw and the Saut St. Mary was estimated a year or two since atover _one hundred millions of dollars_. But, who can estimate acommerce which every year increases in many fold? In 1856, there weresent through the St. Mary Canal 11, 000 tons of raw iron, 1, 040 tonsof blooms, and 10, 452, 000 lbs. Of copper; and the commercial value ofwhat passed through the canal amounted to upward $5, 000, 000. Butperhaps the most correct idea of the rapid increase of commerce inLake Superior may be taken from the arrivals at Superior City for thelast three years, taken from the Superior Chronicle of January, 1857. 

In 1854 there were two steamboats and five sail vessels. In 1855 therewere twenty-three steamers, and ten sail vessels; and in 1856 fortysteamers and sixteen sail vessels. 

We thus see that in three years the increase was seven-fold. It isscarcely possible to imagine the limits of northwestern commerce onthe lake, when a few years shall have filled up with inhabitants thesurrounding territories. 

According to the testimony of Senator Hatch, made on the floor ofCongress on the 25th of February, 1859, there were over one thousandsix hundred vessels navigating the northwestern lakes, of which theaggregate burden was over four hundred thousand tons. They were mannedby over thirteen thousand seamen, navigating over five thousand milesof lake and river coast, and transporting over six hundred millions ofexports and imports, being greater than the exports and imports ofthe United States. 

The State of Michigan is the greatest lumber-growing region in theworld, not only on account of its interminable forests of the choicestpine, but in the remarkable facilities for getting it to market. Witha lake coast, on the lower peninsula alone, of over one thousandmiles--with numberless watercourses debouching at convenient distancesinto her vast inland seas--she enjoys advantages which mighty empiresmight envy. Her white-winged carriers are sent to almost every pointof the compass with the product of her forests, which, wherever it maygo, is the sign of improvement and progress, while by the largeexpenditures involved in the manufacture, and the employment ofthousands of hardy laborers, the general prosperity is materiallyenhanced, and a market opened within her own borders for aconsiderable share of the surplus production of her own soil. 

The annual product of the pineries alone amount to the sum of _ten anda half millions of dollars_. The lumbering, mining, and fishinginterest combine to furnish by far the best home market in the Union, and one which in seasons when a large surplus is not compelled to seeka market, can boast its independence of the "bulls" and "bears" ofthe great commercial metropolis. The dense forests in the interior ofthe State have not yet been reached, and when the contemplated roadsare made, a field will be presented for the investment of capital of amost remunerative character. 

The government has already taken such steps as will soon make Mackinawthe centre of a great railroad system. We need only refer to theactual facts in order to make this clear. Congress, by an act passedin 1855-6, granted to the State of Michigan a large body of land forrailroad purposes, designating four routes. 1. From Little Noquet Bayto Marquette, in the Superior country. 2. From Amboy, on theState-line of Ohio, through Lansing to or near Mackinaw. 3. From GrandRapids to Mackinaw. 4. From Grand Haven to Port Huron. It will be seenthat this plan is formed on the basis of a direct line from LakeSuperior through the mineral regions to Lake Michigan. The lawfortunately permitted the last two companies to make their lines at or_near_ Traverse Bay, and as Mackinaw is but comparatively a shortdistance, both companies have wisely concluded to terminate theirlines at Mackinaw. It is at once evident that the Michigan line, centering at Mackinaw, must be met _there_, by railroads penetratingvarious sections of the northern peninsula. This is evident, and weunderstand is already foreseen, and measures will be adopted toaccomplish that end. In the mean time, let us examine the prospectsand influence of the two long lines of Michigan railway terminating atMackinaw. The whole amount of land granted to the Michigan railways isestimated to be about 3, 880, 000 acres. From this, however, there willbe some deduction in consequence of lands already selected, and whichmay not be supplied by the quantity within the limited distance. Thedeficiency will not be great, and we understand that the amountestimated for the two Mackinaw roads will scarcely be less than _twomillions of acres_. Of the quantity and value of these lands, we givethe estimate made by these roads, as well as the cost of construction. The estimate made by the _Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad_ is asfollows:

"The proximity to lake navigation; having several navigable riverspassing through them, the abundance of hydraulic power, thehealthfulness of the climate, the fertility of the soil; and lyingimmediately on the line of this road, are facts which contribute toenhance the value of these lands. 

"The length of this road from the Straits of Mackinaw to Fort Wayne, will be about three hundred and fifty miles. If the company meet withas good success as the merits of the enterprise deserve, the entirecost of the road should not be over $25, 000 per mile, which makes anaggregate sum of $8, 759, 000. "

On the supposition that the minimum amount of land is obtained andsold, at half the price above stated, there will yet be broad enoughbasis to secure the construction of the work. 

The Amboy and Lansing Company are equally confident of success. Theyhave also located a large quantity of land, and expect their value tobe equivalent to the construction of their road. Accordingly, theyhave put a portion of their road under contract, and have obtainedlarge local subscriptions. 

Both these lines of railroad will terminate at Mackinaw, on the north, and Cincinnati on the south; hence they will be carried south tillthey terminate at Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah, and Pensacola, thusforming the grandest and most extensive system of railroads on thecontinent. Nothing in America equals it--nothing in Europe can comparewith it! When all the links shall have been completed, it will standout the greatest monument to human labor and genius which the worldpresents. 

The single line from Mackinaw to Pensacola has been looked upon as oneof the most important undertakings of the age. We extract from the"Exposition of its Plan and Prospects, " by E. D. Mansfield, Esq. , someof the facts, which exhibit its importance, and bearing, and influenceon Mackinaw City. 

"To illustrate, " says the Exposition, "the value of this North andSouth National Line, by its power of producing commerce, mark, in atabular form, the natural products of each degree of latitude, thus:--

 _States. _ _Latitude. _ _Productions. _

 Florida, 31 deg. Oranges. " 31 " Sugar. " 31 " Cotton. Alabama, 32 " " " 33 " " " 34 " Cotton, Corn. Tennessee, 35 " " " " 36 " Cotton, corn, tobac. , iron. Kentucky, 37 " Corn, tobac. , coal, iron. " 38 " Corn, wh't, cat. Tob. H'mp. Ohio, 39 " Corn, wh't, cat. H'gs, wine. 

 " 40 " Wh't, c'rn, h'gs, cat. , flax. " 41 " Wheat, corn, cattle. Michigan, 42 " Wheat, cattle, hay, wool. " 43 " Pine, cedar, coal. " 44 " Pine, cedar, coal. " 45 " Pine, hemlock, cedar. " 46 " Pine, copper, lead, fish. 

"This statement is enough to show an extraordinary stimulus tocommerce, on a line of railway. The length of the entire line will beless than half that which is proposed to be made from Cincinnati andother cities to San Francisco; yet, will pass through varieties ofproduction, which that line cannot have. In two days, every inhabitanton that line may be supplied, from their native source, with sugar, cotton, corn, wheat, tobacco, iron, coal, lead, copper, pine, cedar, with wool, flour, hemp, and fruits of every description; with fish ofthe sea and fish of the lakes; with bread, and oil, and wine; in fine, with everything that supports, clothes, or houses man; with everythingthat supplies his wants, or contributes to his material happiness. "

It is obvious, that such a line of railroad as this--peculiar in itsresources, vast in its comprehensions, and embracing in its grasp allthe products of tropic or of temperate climes--must, of itself, rear, at its _termini_, commercial towns of great importance. But, this isnot all. The road from Grand Haven to Port Huron will intersect theAmboy and Lansing line about midway, and then a railroad will at oncebe made in the direction of the Canada lines and Buffalo--completingthe _radii_ from the far northwest through Mackinaw, to the easternAtlantic. The natural point of termini for the Northern Pacific andCanada Railroads is also at the Straits of Mackinaw. The one givingfinancial strength and business to the other, connecting Portland withthe mouth of Columbia by the nearest possible route. 

Canada has already granted four million acres of land to railroadsrunning to Saut St. Mary. Those having the management of the NorthernPacific railroad will do well to consider the propriety ofco-operating and uniting with the Canada and Pacific Railroad at theStraits. 

The following from the New York Daily News is valuable in thisconnection. It is from the pen of E. Conkling, Esq. :--

"You will please excuse me for calling your attention, not to theimportance of a Pacific railroad, for that is conceded, and ourcountry is suffering from want of it, but to the mode of getting themeans to construct the Northern Pacific railroad. I don't remember tohave noticed as yet any allusion to this method, or any otherpractical one, and I trust you will consider the suggestions, and addthereto any other methods. 

"The railroads now provided for and made to St. Paul, and Crow Wingfrom Chicago and Milwaukee will have exhausted local means, State aidand available land grants. However desirable it may be to sustainthose roads by a business beyond that, and to the country beyond that, by extending the Northern Pacific Railroad, yet for want of means itcannot be done, unless foreign capitalists can be induced by landgrants, at least to invest sufficient to make the road finally, and bemade to see that their present large unproductive investments inCanada railroads can be made productive in the use of more of theircapital. 

"Canada railroads lie _too far North_ to receive any benefit inbusiness from railroads terminating from the northwest as far south asChicago, and but little from the railroads terminating at Milwaukee, as the cost of transhipment and delay to cross by steam ferry eightmonths yearly at Milwaukee with eighty-five miles ferriage, mustdivert the trade and travel either to the north or south end of LakeMichigan, and every year will render that delay and cost moreunpopular. And yet to get that trade the Great Western Railroad ofCanada have permanently invested $750, 000, in the Detroit andMilwaukee Railroad, and recently loaned a half a million more, demonstrating the idea I shall advance, that to make good presentinvestments more means can be had. The State of Michigan itself willfurnish a good trade to roads through it and to roads east of it. 

"The Straits of Mackinaw is the great natural ferry of about fourmiles wide for roads of Michigan and Canada to centre, the pointnecessarily for the passage of lake commerce, and for a largepopulation north of it to cross, naturally attracting and combiningelements of great importance to railroads. 

"Land grants are now made to the straits from the south. The GrandTrunk and Great Western Railroads of Canada can go to the Straits ofMackinaw, aided by those grants. The Ottawa and Huron Railroad to SautSt. Mary, may also go to the Straits, aided by land grants from SautSt. Mary. From there the three Canadian railroads, aided by landgrants yet to be made, can go to Crow Wing or near there, and thereform a junction with the Chicago roads--thence to the Pacific, aidedby land grants. 

"By affording the Canada interest a chance for a portion of thePacific trade, and thus making present Canada investments profitable, it is made the interest of foreign capitalists to make our NorthernPacific railroad. 

"This protective interest to Canada railroads is the greatestinducement to be offered them. 

"They will not invest in the road beyond Crow Wing, simply for thesake of grants of lands, made valuable only by the outlay of theirmoney; even should the lands finally redeem the previous outlay forthe road, that is no object, because the road will not pay more thancost of running and sustaining it, and if it should some beyond that, it will be frittered away by bad management and stealing. At least itis fair to suppose so, and hence they must be assured of enough ofland grants to finally make the road, which of itself will paynothing, only in the way of affording the roads east of Crow Wing, owned by them, fair dividends. This consideration will of itselfinduce them to furnish capital to the Pacific, and it is in the powerof the government thus to interest them. No other proposed route canclaim foreign aid because of such good reasons. Our government can aidonly in lands; in valueless lands she is or may be wealthy. No billcan pass Congress, only by affording equal aid in lands to theNorthern, Central and Southern routes, each standing on theircommercial merits before capitalists. 

"The chance for us thus to enlist them, is but for a limited time. Soon they will become committed to the North Canada Pacific Road, north of Lake Superior, when they will not help ours, and thusprotract ours for want of means and competing road. At present, two ofthe most important Canada roads can be enlisted in the above views, because if the Canada road north of Lake Superior is made, it willdivert the trade from them, they being too far south to be benefited. But by going to the Straits of Mackinaw, they secure a division of theWestern trade--among the three roads. The road through the mineralregions will develop that country and afford a good market for theproduce of the country west of it. 

"Chicago is no more on the direct route from the East to Iowa, than isMackinaw city on the direct route to the northwest from New York. 

"Lake Michigan naturally forces such a division of the Western andNorthwestern trade, and the Strait of Mackinaw is most favorablysituated for crossing. Cars can be transferred by ferry boat frompoint to point, without delay or cost of train shipment. 

"That country is nearer to market than any other Western State;cheaper lands and good soil, and healthy climate, and a superior wheatcountry, affording employment in lumbering, fishing, mining, manufacturing, &c. , offering great inducements to foreigners, and ofinterest to New York, to be settled. "

The history of the West has presented some remarkable facts, contraryto the ordinary experience of human progress. It is assumed, as anhistorical fact, in European or Asiatic progress, that the growth oftowns and states must be slow. It requires generations to bring themto maturity, and even imperial power has failed to create cities, without the aid of time and gradual increase. But, this has beenreversed in America. We cannot take it for granted that because thenatural site of a town is now clothed with the forest, and remote fromhabitations, that it will not become a prosperous city, within ahalf-dozen years. For, we know that in the Northwest, cities havearisen on a substantial basis, to a numerous population, in a space sobrief that history has no record of their existence, and the schoolmaps no name for the place of their being. 

Chicago which commenced its growth in 1834, had a population in 1857, of 100, 000, Milwaukee in twenty-one years rose to 50, 000, St. Paul infifteen years to 15, 000; Keokuk in eighteen years to 15, 000, GrandRapids in twelve years to 8000; Saginaw city in twenty-two years 4000, and Superior city in the short space of two years to 4000. 

We thus see, that, in the Northwest, cities do grow up, in the midstof the wilderness, and the wilderness itself soon blooms as the rose. To say, then, that a point affording every natural and commercialadvantage for the growth of a large city is not _now_ a city, is tosay nothing against its position or prospects. Within the memory of ageneration the five great States, (which have heretofore been termedthe Northwest, ) contained less then a half a million of people, andCleveland, Toledo, Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul, were not evendots on the map of States. A mission or a military fort was all theycould boast. These States now contain six millions of inhabitants, andthe towns on the lake shore two hundred and fifty thousand. But topresent the point of growth, in the clearest point of view, let usconsider it dependent wholly on that of the surrounding country. Thiswe can tell almost precisely. We know the rate of growth in Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Canada West. 

Canada West in 1840, had a population of 640, 000, in 1850, of982, 000, and in 1857, 1, 100, 000, Michigan in 1840, was 212, 000, in1850, 397, 000, and in 1857, 700, 000. The population of Wisconsin in1840, was 30, 000, in 1850, it was 305, 991, and in 1857, it was600, 000. The increase in Minnesota in seventeen years was 200, 000. 

The annual _increment_ from 1840 to 1850, was 50, 000 per annum, orabout six per cent. The annual increment from 1850 to 1857, was172, 000, or about twelve per cent. The _ratio_ of increase is, therefore, increasing, and we may assume it will not be less than_ten_ per cent, per annum till 1860. This will give 3, 380, 000 for1860, or _fourfold the population_ of 1840! At a diminishing ratio theterritory round Mackinaw will contain 5, 400, 000 in 1870, and(8, 000, 000) _eight millions_ in 1880. The principal city of thedistrict (wherever it may be) must then contain about _one hundredthousand inhabitants_. 

Of the cities and towns we have above enumerated, the greatest andmost rapid in its development is Chicago, whose first warehouse lotwas sold in 1834, and which, in 1857, is said to contain near onehundred thousand inhabitants. Let us, for a moment, compare the_material advantages and resources_ of that place, with those ofMackinaw city. Dean Swift said, that a large city must combine theresources of agriculture, commerce and manufactures. Cities haverisen, however, to large size almost exclusively on commerce. WitnessTyre and Palmyra. But commerce, we concede, when left to itself, is sofluctuating, that the cities it builds, like Tyre and Palmyra, may, inthe decay of commerce, be left to ruin and desolation. Cities may, likewise, be built up almost exclusively on manufactures, such asBirmingham and Sheffield; and it is quite remarkable that the oldestand most stable cities have depended largely on manufactures. Damascus, the oldest historical city--which has resisted all thedestructive influences of time and revolution--has always been amanufacturing town. Paris, Lyons, Lisle, the great interior towns ofFrance, depend very largely on the manufacture of fine and fashionablearticles, distributed throughout Europe and America. Of the greatelements of civic success, we consider manufactures the mostimportant; but, to make a city of the first magnitude, it is obviouslynecessary to have all the resources of food, industry and commerce. Chicago is remarkable chiefly as a grain city--like Odessa, on theBaltic. But, whence is the grain derived? By the construction ofrailroads, at that point, from Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Wisconsinand Iowa, the whole mass of surplus grain in that region--amountingto more than twenty millions of bushels per annum--has been exportedfrom Chicago. But, this is the drainage of three hundred thousandsquare miles, two-thirds of which will not export through Chicago whenrailroads extend directly east to Milwaukee, Superior and Mackinaw, from Wisconsin and Iowa, and connect, from the south, at Cairo, withMissouri and Illinois. Reduced to its own proper limits, theagricultural resources of Chicago must be confined to half the surfaceof Illinois, Missouri and Iowa, or about one hundred thousand squaremiles. This is but little over one-third the surface drained ofagricultural products toward the Straits of Mackinaw. Will it be saidthat this new region of the Northwest is less productive inagriculture? The contrary, for the great element of breadstuffs, islikely to be true. Attentive observers of agricultural production haveremarked, that the different grains _produced most on the northernedge of the belt_, in which _they will grow at all_. Is it not so inEurope? The _isothermal line_ of Mackinaw passes in the midst of thosecountries which alone produce the surplus grain of Europe, viz. , Prussia, Pomerania, Poland, Southern Russia. As if to place thisbeyond a doubt, the crops of Canada West have, in fact, failed muchless frequently than those of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. In regardto agricultural production, it will be difficult to show that thecountry drained by Chicago, has any advantage over that which will bedrained by the Straits of Mackinaw. 

In regard to commerce--the natural position of Mackinaw is far superiorto Chicago. Mackinaw is at the _head_ of Lake Michigan--Chicago, atthe _foot_. Mackinaw is at the junction of _three_ great lakes;Chicago at the foot of one. Mackinaw will concentrate the navigationof _eighty thousand_ square miles of water _surface_; Chicago of_twenty-four thousand_. Mackinaw is three hundred and fifty milesnearer the Atlantic by water; three hundred miles nearer the upperextremity of the lakes, and as much nearer any of the Eastern Lakeports which are points of distribution. The comparison need be made nofurther, for whoever looks upon the map will see, that, while Chicagotouches one end of a single lake, a world of waters gather roundMackinaw. For an internal water commerce, it has no equal. 

It will be said, that railroads now carry commerce. This is true, but, railroads do not carry commerce over the surface of lakes, and themultiplication of vessels on the lakes proves that _that_ commercewill ever be great and increasing. But what railroad commerce can begreater than that which will concentrate at Mackinaw, when itconnects, in a direct line, not only with the cities of the OhioValley, but with those of the far South. To Cincinnati, to Louisville, to Charleston, Savannah, and Pensacola, will the cars move, laden withthe people and products of the North. Lastly, neither Chicago nor anyother point can be superior to Mackinaw in the elements necessary tosupport manufactures, the great support of cities, these elements wehave already exhibited in detail. Copper, iron, lead, coal, wood, timber, bread, in fine, everything which can feed machinery, givematerial for its work, or feed the people who gather in the greatworkshops of industry, and distribute the products of labor. Herematerials all lie near enough for the purposes of either work ordistribution. Birmingham, Manchester, Lyons, and Cincinnati, havetheir materials no nearer. There, if anywhere, is a site peculiarlyproper for a manufacturing town. 

But, neither agriculture, commerce, nor manufactures are the onlythings necessary to build up a large city. Healthiness is moreimportant than either. Here again, Mackinaw has more advantage overChicago. Mackinaw has been proved by two hundred years experience tobe one of the healthiest points in America. Chicago is generallyhealthy, but is subject to more severe epidemics. The cholera visitedit in 1832 and in 1849, with fearful force; while its very lowposition and muddy streets expose its inhabitants to those diseaseswhich arise from damps. 

The Legislature of Michigan, recently passed a bill to provide for thedrainage and reclamation of the swamp lands of the State by a systemof State roads, accompanied by a lengthy and able report. The billprovides among others, a road from Ionia north to the straits, andthence to Saut St. Mary. 

They also passed a bill entitled the "Forty Acre Homestead Act. " Thisact requires the commissioners of the State Land office to issue acertificate of purchase to every settler on the swamp lands belongingto the State, for forty acres of said lands, whenever such settlershall have resided upon it for five continuous years, and when he hasdrained the same so as to comply with the provisions of the Act ofCongress making this grant to the State. Before the settler canacquire the right thus to occupy and drain any of the swamp lands, heis required to file with the commissioner his application, accompaniedby an oath of his intention to settle upon and drain it for thepurpose of obtaining a title thereto. And he must also make oath thathe is not already the owner of forty acres of land in any State of theUnited States. It is also expressly provided that he shall not cut orcarry away any timber from said land, unless it be to clear it forcultivation, under such penalties as are now prescribed fortrespassing upon State lands. It will be seen, therefore, that theobject of the law is to provide homes for the homeless, and at thesame time promote the actual, _permanent_ settlement of the northernportion of the State. No man who possesses forty acres of land eitherin Michigan or anywhere else, is entitled to the benefits of the act. It is emphatically a law for the poor man. To all such it secures a_home_, without money and without price. All it requires of him is tosettle upon and cultivate it. How many are there in Detroit and otherportions of the State, who will avail themselves of this beneficentrepublican measure?

CHAPTER XII. 

 The Great Western Valley -- Its growth and population -- Comparison of Atlantic with interior cities -- Relative growth of river and lake cities -- Centre of population -- Lake tonnage -- Progress of the principal centres of population. 

The following chapter on the population and growth of the GreatWestern Valley is taken from De Bow's Review:--

The westward movement of the Caucasian branch of the human family fromthe high plains of Asia, first over Europe, and thence, with swellingtide, pouring its multitudes into the New World, is the grandestphenomenon in history. What American can contemplate its results, asdisplayed before him, and as promised in the proximate future, withoutan emotion of pride and exultation?

Our nation has the great middle region of the best continent of theworld, and our people are descendants from the most vigorous races. Western Europe, over-peopled, sends us her most energetic sons anddaughters, in numbers augmenting with each succeeding decade. Asia isbeginning to send forth a portion of her surplus population to ourshores. Though of inferior race, the Eastern Asiatics are industriousand ingenious cultivators and artisans. A large influx of theselaborers, though it may lower the average character of our people, will, it is hoped, in a greater degree elevate theirs; and thus, whileadding to the wealth and power of a nation, do something toward thegeneral amelioration of the race. While, then, we contemplate withpatriotic pride the position which, as a nation, we hold in theworld's affairs, may we not indulge in pleasant anticipations of thenear approach of the time, when the commercial and social heart of ourempire will occupy its natural place as the heart of the continent, near the centre of its natural capabilities?

New York has long been, and for some decades of years it will continueto be, the necessary chief focal point of our nation. But, in allrespects, it is not the true heart. In its composition and dealings, it is almost as much foreign as American. Located on our easternborder, fronting the most commercial and the richest transatlanticnations, and of easy access to extensive portions of our Atlanticcoast, it is the best point of exchange between foreign lands and ourown, and for the cities of the sea border of our Republic. As Tyre, Alexandria, Genoa, Venice, Lisbon, and Amsterdam, in their best days, flourished as factors between foreigners and the people of theinterior regions, whose industries were represented in their markets, so New York grows rich as the chief agent in the exchange-commercebetween the ocean shores and the interior regions of our continent. Asour numbers have swelled, since we became a nation, from three and ahalf millions to thirty millions, so New York, including Brooklyn andother suburbs, has increased in population and wealth still morerapidly, to wit, from twenty-five thousand to more than one million. While the nation has increased less than tenfold, New York has grownmore than four times tenfold. In 1790 the city of New York containedthirty-three thousand, and the State of New York three hundred andforty thousand--the city having less than one-tenth of the people ofthe State. 

Believing that this most prosperous of the Atlantic cities will beeclipsed in its greatness and glory by one or more of the interiorcities of the great plain, we have selected it as the champion of theAtlantic border, to hold up its progress during the thirty years from1830 to 1860, the most prosperous years of its existence, incomparison with the progress, during the same period, of the aggregatecities and towns of the plain. The result of our investigation, thesumming up, will be found in the following table. It will be seen thatmany of the items are put down in round numbers--no document beingaccessible or in existence to furnish the exact number of many of thenew towns, in 1830. The estimate for 1860 may, in some instances, beabove the figures which the census will furnish, but the over-estimatefor 1830 is believed to be in a larger proportion to actual numbers atthat time. Making a liberal allowance for errors, the result of theaggregate cannot be materially varied from that at which our figuresbring us:

 1830. 1860 Est. Increase. New York, including Brooklyn and other suburbs 234, 438 1, 170, 000 5 times. 

 Cities and chief towns of the great plain 270, 094 2, 706, 300 10 " nearly

Leaving out the exterior cities of the plain, to wit, New Orleans, Mobile, Galveston, Quebec and Montreal, the comparison between NewYork and suburbs, and the interior cities of the plain will be shownby the following figures:

 1830. 1860 Est. Increase. New York and accessories 234, 448 1, 170, 000 5 fold Interior cities and town of the plain 172, 000 2, 346, 000 13 "

The five largest cities of the Atlantic border exhibit a growth, ascompared with the five largest cities of the plain, as follows:

 1830. 1860 Est. New York and dependencies 235, 000 1, 170, 000 Philadelphia " 170, 000 700, 000 Baltimore " 83, 000 250, 000 Boston " 80, 000 200, 000 Charleston " 31, 000 60, 000

 599, 000 2, 380, 000

 Cincinnati and suburbs 28, 000 250, 000 New Orleans " 47, 000 170, 000 St. Louis " 6, 000 170, 000 Chicago " 100 150, 000 Pittsburg " 17, 000 145, 000

 98, 000 885, 000

This table shows the five Atlantic cities to have quadrupled, and thefive cities of the interior plain have increased nine times. Is thisrelative rate of increase of the exterior and interior cities to bechanged, and, if it is to be changed, when is the change to commence?We can foresee no cause adequate to that effect, or tending toward it. On the contrary, it seems to us certain as any future event, that therate of growth of the interior cities, compared with those on theAtlantic border, will be increased. 

The proportion which their present numbers bear to the numbers of therural population does not exceed one to six, whereas the urbanpopulation of the Atlantic border is not less than one to three of therural. This disproportion of city and rural population will hereafterchange more rapidly in favor of the interior than the Atlantic cities, because of the greater fertility of soil producing more food from anequal amount of labor; and also, by reason of the more rapid growth ofthe general population, of which an increasing proportion will prefercity to country life. Will it not be so? Will not the general increaseof population be greater in the interior States? Will not theproductions of the soil increase faster? And can there be a doubt thatthe large disproportion in the distribution of the population betweencity and country, in the interior, will be lessened, so that, insteadof being, as now, only one to five or six, they will rapidly approachthe proportion of one to two or three? Here, then, are the sources ofsuperior increase so obviously true, as to need only to be stated toinsure conviction. 

Let us now compare the growth, for the thirty years since 1830, of thefive largest Atlantic cities, with the five largest cities of theplain, and, by its side, extend the comparison to 10, 15, and 20 ofthe largest city of each section:

 1830. 1860 Est. 

 New York and accessories 235, 000 1, 170, 000 Philadelphia " 170, 000 700, 000 Baltimore " 83, 000 250, 000 Charleston " 31, 000 60, 000

 599, 000 2, 380, 000 Increase 4 times. 

 1830. 1860 Est. Cincinnati and suburbs 28, 000 250, 000 New Orleans " 47, 000 270, 000 St. Louis " 6, 000 170, 000 Chicago " 100 150, 000 Pittsburg " 17, 000 145, 000

 98, 000 2, 885, 000 Increase 9 times. 

Let us now compare the _ten_ largest of each section. 

 _Atlantic. _ 1830. 1860 Est. The aggregate of the five largest as above 579, 000 2, 370, 000 Providence 17, 000 55, 000 Lowell 6, 500 40, 000 Washington 19, 000 60, 000 Albany 24, 000 65, 000 Richmond 16, 000 35, 000 ------- --------- 661, 000 2, 625, 000 Increase 4 times. 

 _Interior. _ 1839. 1860 Est. Aggregate as above 98, 000 885, 000 Buffalo 9, 000 100, 000 Louisville 10, 500 80, 000 Milwaukee 50 75, 000 Detroit 2, 000 80, 000 Cleveland 1, 000 70, 000 ------- --------- 120, 550 1, 290, 000 Increase 10 7-10. 

Aggregate of the ten, with five more of each section added, added, towit:

 1830. 1860 Est. Aggregate as above 661, 000 2, 625, 000 Troy 11, 500 35, 000 Portland 12, 500 30, 000 Salem 14, 000 25, 000 New Haven 10, 000 30, 000 Savannah 7, 500 15, 500 ------- --------- 716, 500 2, 760, 500 Increase 3 8-10 times. 

 1830. 1860 Est. Aggregate as above 120, 550 1, 290, 000 Toronto 1, 700 65, 000 Rochester 9, 000 50, 000 Mobile 3, 000 30, 000 Memphis 1, 500 25, 000 Hamilton 1, 500 25, 000 -------- -------- 137, 000 1, 485, 000 Increase 16 7-10 times. 

Aggregate of the fifteen, with five more added in each section:

 1830. 1860 Est. Aggregate as above 716, 500 2, 760, 500 Springfield, Mass 7, 000 24, 000 Worcester, " 4, 500 24, 000 Bangor, Me. 3, 000 23, 000 Patterson, N. J. 5, 000 22, 000 Manchester, N. H. 50 22, 000 ------- --------- 736, 500 2, 875, 500 Increase 3 8-10 times. 

 1830. 1860 Est. Aggregate as above 137, 250 1, 485, 000 Dayton 3, 000 24, 000 Indianapolis 1, 500 22, 000 Toledo 30 20, 000 Oswego 3, 200 20, 000 Quincy 1, 500 20, 000 ------- --------- 149, 700 1, 591, 000 Increase 10 6-10 times. 

From the above tables, we see that the city of New York, with itsneighboring dependencies, will have made in growth in thirty years, between 1830 and 1860, increasing its population 5 times. During thesame period, The 5 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, including New York, increased 4 1-10 times. The 10 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, including New York, increased 4 " The 15 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, including New York, increased 3 8-10 " The 20 largest Atlantic cities and suburbs, including New York, increased 3 8-10 "

 And that the 5 largest cities of the great plain, during the same period, increased 9 " And the 10 largest cities of the great plain, during the same period, increased 10 7-10 " And the 15 largest cities of the great plain, during the same period, increased 10 7-10 " And the 20 largest cities of the great plain, during the same period, increased 10 6-10 "

If the number of cities and towns of each section were increased totwenty-five, thirty, and thirty-five of each section, the disparitywould increase in favor of the interior cities, most of these to bebrought into comparison, having come into existence since 1830. 

We commend the comparison between the old and the new cities so farback as 1830, to give the former a better chance for a fair showing. If a later census should be chosen for a starting point, theadvantages would be more decidedly with the interior cities. 

In the article on the great plain, in the May number of this Review, we gave prominence to the two great external gateways of commerceoffered to its people in their intercourse with the rest of the world:that is to say, the Mississippi river entrance into the Gulf ofMexico, and the outlet of the lakes through St. Lawrence and Hudsonrivers. These constitute the present great routes of commerce of thepeople of the plain, and draw to the cities on the borders of thegreat lakes and rivers the trade of the surrounding country. Betweenthe cities of the great rivers and lakes there has of late sprung up afriendly rivalry, each having some peculiar advantages, and all, insome degree, drawing business into their laps for the benefit of theirrivals. That is to say: river cities gather in productions from thesurrounding districts which seek an eastern market through lakeharbors; and lake cities perform the same office for the chief rivercities. Each year increases, to a marked extent, the intercourse whichthese two classes of cities hold with each other; and it may be safelyanticipated that no long period will elapse before this intercoursewill become more important to them than all their commerce with theworld beside. 

In comparing the interior cities of the great plain, situated on thenavigable rivers, with those located on the borders of the lakes, twoconsiderations bearing on their relative growth should be kept inview. The river cities were of earlier growth, the settlement from theAtlantic States having taken the Ohio river as the high-road to theirnew homes, many years before the upper lakes were resorted to as achannel of active emigration. 

This gave an earlier development to country bordering the centralrivers, the Ohio, Wabash, Illinois, and Lower Missouri. The States ofKentucky and Tennessee, also, had been pretty well settled, in theirmore inviting portions, before any considerable inroad had been madeon the wilderness bordering on the upper lakes. Owing to these andother circumstances, the river cities, Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, and others of less note, were well advanced in growth, before the towns on the lakes had begun, in any considerable degree, to be developed. Another advantage the river cities possessed in theirearly stage, and which they still hold; that of manufacturing for theplanting States bordering the great rivers. For many years, in agreat variety of articles of necessity, they possessed almost amonopoly of this business. Of late, transportation has become socheap, that the planters avail themselves of a greater range of choicefor the purchase of manufactured articles, and the lake cities havecommenced a direct trade with the plantation States, which willdoubtless increase with the usual rapidity of industrial developmentin the fertile West. 

If we claim for the upper lake country some superiority of climate forcity growth over the great river region, we do not doubt that thefuture will justify the claim. More labor will be performed for thesame compensation, in a cool, bracing atmosphere, such asdistinguishes the upper lake region, than on the more sultry banks ofthe central affluents of the Mississippi, where are the best positionsfor the chief river cities. 

Refraining from further comment, let us bring the actual developmentof the interior cities--on the navigable rivers and on the lakes--intojuxtaposition for easy comparison. As our comparison of Atlanticcities with the cities of the plain has been made for thirty years, from 1830 to 1860, we continue it here for the same period, betweenthe river cities and lake cities. We select twenty cities, now thelargest of each region, and put down the population in round numbersas nearly accurate as practicable. That for 1860, is of course, anestimate only, but it is certainly near enough to the truth toillustrate the growth, positive and comparative, of our interiorcities. 

This table exhibits a growth of the interior cities on the navigablewaters of the Mississippi and its affluents, which brings theirpopulation, in 1870, up to 11-1-10 that of 1830. This is, unquestionably, much beyond the expectation of their most sanguineinhabitants, at the commencement of that period, being three timesthat of the chief cities of the Atlantic border. Yet even this rapiddevelopment is seen, by our figures, to fall far behind that which hascharacterized the cities created by lake commerce during the sameperiod. 

 Interior River Cities 1830. 1860. 

 Cincinnati and dependencies, 25, 500 250, 000 Pittsburg, " 15, 500 155, 000 St. Louis, " 6, 000 180, 000 Louisville, " 11, 000 80, 000 Memphis, " 2, 500 25, 000 Wheeling, " 6, 000 20, 000 New Albany, " 1, 500 20, 000 Quincy, " 1, 000 19, 000 Peoria, " 800 18, 000 Galena, " 2, 000 18, 500 Keokuk, " 50 16, 000

 Dubuque, " 100 16, 000 Nashville, " 6, 000 15, 000 St. Paul, " 15, 000 Madison, Ind. , " 2, 500 13, 000 Burlington, Ind. , " 12, 000 La Fayette, Ind. , " 300 13, 000 Rock Island, " 8, 000 Jeffersonville, " 800 8, 000

 81, 550 914, 000

 Lake Cities. 1830. 1860. 

 Chicago and dependencies 100 150, 000 Buffalo, " 8, 663 100, 000 Detroit, " 2, 222 80, 000 Milwaukee, " 50 75, 000 Cleveland, " 1, 047 70, 000 Toronto, C. W. , 1, 667 65, 000 Rochester, " 9, 269 50, 000 Hamilton, C. W. , " 5, 500 25, 000 Kingston, C. W. , " 2, 500 20, 500 Oswego, " 3, 200 20, 500 Toledo, " 30 20, 000 Sandusky City, " 350 14, 000 Erie, " 1, 000 10, 000 G. Rapids, Mich. , " 300 10, 000 Kenosha, " 10, 000 Racine, " 10, 000 St. Catharine's, C. W. , " 400 10, 000 Waukegan, " 8, 000 Port Huron, " 100 8, 000 Fon du Lac, " 20 8, 000

 32, 408 764, 000

These, according to the table, exhibit a growth which makes them, in1860, more than _twenty-three_ times as populous as they were in 1830. This is double the progress of the river cities, and more than fivetimes that of the cities of the Atlantic coast. In the face of thesefacts, how can intelligent men continue to hold the opinion that NewYork is to continue long to be, as now, the focal point of NorthAmerican commerce and influence? Yet well informed men _do_ continueto express the opinion that New York will _ever_ hold the position ofthe chief city of the continent. Every one at all familiar with thelocation and movement of our population, knows that the central pointof its numbers is moving in a constant and almost unvarying directionwest by north. An able investigator, now Professor of Law in theUniversity of Michigan, Thomas M. Cooley, five years ago, entered intoan elaborate calculation to ascertain where the centre of populationof the United States and Canadas was, at that time. The result showedit to be very near Pittsburg. It is generally conceded that it travelsin a direction about west by north, at a rate averaging not less thanseven miles a year. In 1860, it will have crossed the Ohio River, andcommenced its march through the State of Ohio. As our internalcommerce is more than ten times as great as our foreign commerce, andis increasing more rapidly, it is plain that it will have the chiefagency in building the future and permanent capital city of thecontinent. If the centre of population were, likewise the centre ofwealth and industrial power, other things being equal, it would be theposition of the chief city, as it would be the most convenient placeof exchange for dealers from all quarters of the country. But thiscentre of wealth and industrial power does not keep up, in its westernmovement, with the centre of population! nor, if its movement werecoincident, would it be at or near the right point for theconcentration of our domestic and foreign trade, while traversing theinterior of Ohio. If we suppose our foreign commerce equal to onefifteenth of the domestic, we should add to the thirty-three millionsof the States and Canadas, upward of two millions of foreigners, torepresent our foreign commerce. These should be thrown into the scalerepresented by New York. This, with the larger proportion topopulation of industrial power remaining in the old States, wouldrender it certain that the centre of industrial power of our nationhas not traveled westward so far as to endanger, for the present, thesupremacy of the cities central to the commerce of our Atlantic coast. Until the centre of industrial power approaches a good harbor on thelakes, New York will continue the best located city of the continentfor the great operations of its commerce. That the centre of wealthand consequent industrial power is moving westward at a rate notmaterially slower than the centre of population, might be easilyproved; but, as those who read this article with interest must becognizant of the great flow of capital from the old world and the oldStates to the New States, and the rapid increase of capital on thefertile soil of the new States, no special proof seems to us to becalled for. The centre of power, numerical, political, economical, andsocial, is then, indubitably, on its steady march from the Atlanticborder toward the interior of the continent. That it will find aresting place somewhere, in its broad interior plain, seems asinevitable as the continued movement of the earth on its axis. Thefigures we have submitted of the growth of the principal lake citiesplainly show great power in lake commerce, so great as to carryconviction to our mind that the _principal city of the continent willfind its proper home and resting-place on the lake border, and becomethe most populous capital of the earth_. A full knowledge of thegeography of North America will tend to confirm this conviction in themind of the fair inquirer. The lakes penetrate the continent to itsproductive centre. They afford, during eight or nine months of theyear, pleasant and safe navigation for steam-propelled vessels. Theirwaters are pure and beautifully transparent, and the air which passesover them exceedingly invigorating to the human system. Their bordersare replete with materials for the exercise of human industry andskill. The soil is fertile and very productive in grains and grasses. Coal in exhaustless abundance crops out on or near their waters, tothe extent of nearly one thousand miles of coast. The richest mines ofiron and copper, convenient to water transport, exist, in aggregateamount, beyond the power of calculation. Stone of lime, granite, sand, and various other kinds suitable for the architect and the artist, arefound almost everywhere convenient to navigation. Gypsum of the bestquality crops out on the shores of three of the great lakes, and saltsprings of great strength are worked to advantage, near lakes Ontarioand Michigan. Timber trees in great variety and of valuable sorts, give a rich border to the shores for thousands of miles. Of these, thewhite oak, burr oak, white pine, whitewood or tulip tree, white ash, hickory and black walnut, are the most valuable. They are of nobledimensions, and clothe millions of acres with their rich foliage. Nowhere else on the continent are to be seen such abundance ofmagnificent oak, and the immense groves of white pine are notexcelled. Heretofore little esteemed, the great tracts of timberconvenient to lake navigation and to the wide treeless prairies of theplain, are destined soon to take an important place in the commercialoperations of the interior. Already, oak timber, for ship-building andother purposes, finds a profitable market in New York and Boston. Thegreat Russian steamship "General Admiral, " was built in part from thetimber of the lake border. A great trade is growing up, based on theproducts of the forest. Whitewood (Diriodendron tulipifera), oakstaves, black and white walnut plank, and other indigenous timber, areshipped, not only to the Atlantic cities, but to foreign ports. Thelumber yards of Albany, New York, Philadelphia, as well as those ofChicago, Milwaukee, Detroit, Toledo, Cleveland and Buffalo, receivelarge supplies from the pineries bordering the great lakes. Cincinnatiand other Ohio river cities, receive an increasing proportion of pinelumber from the same source. These great waters are also, as is wellknown, stocked with fish in great variety, whose fine gastronomicqualities have a world-wide reputation. 

As before stated, these lakes penetrate the continent toward thenorthwest as far as its productive centre. They now have unobstructedconnection with the Atlantic vessels of nine feet draft and threehundred tons burden, by the aid of sixty-three miles of canalsovercoming the falls of the St. Mary, Niagara and St. Lawrence Rivers, with a lockage of less than six hundred feet. By enlarging some of thelocks and deepening the canals, at a cost of a very few millions, navigation for propellers of from one thousand to two thousand tonsmay be secured with the whole world of waters. The cost is much withinthe power of the Canadas and the States bordering the lakes, and willbe but a light matter to these communities when, within the nextfifteen years, they shall have doubled their population and trebledtheir wealth. The increase of the commerce of the lakes, during thelast fifteen years, is believed to be beyond any example furnished bythe history of navigation. A proportionate increase the next fifteenyears, would give for the yearly value of its transported articles, thousands of millions. According to the best authorities it is nowover four hundred millions. In 1855, that portion of the tonnagebelonging to the United States was one fifteenth of the entire tonnageof the Union. During the same year the clearances of vessels fromports of the United States to the Canadas, and the entrance ofvessels from the Canadas to ports of the United States, as exhibitedin the following table, show a greater amount of tonnage entered andcleared than between the United States and any other foreign country:

Clearances from ports in the United States to ports in Canada in 1855:

 Number of American vessels 2, 369 " Canadian " 6, 638

 Whole number 9, 067 Tonnage American 890, 017 " Canadian 903, 502

 Total cleared from the States, 1, 793, 519

The registered tonnage of all the States, the same year, was2, 676, 864; and the registered and enrolled together, 5, 212, 000. 

The value of lake tonnage was, in 1855, $14, 835, 000. The total valueof the commerce of the lakes, the same year, was estimated, by highauthority, (including exports and imports) at twelve hundred andsixteen millions ($1, 216, 000, 000. ) This seems to us an exaggeratedestimate, though based principally on official reports of collectorsof customs. Eight hundred millions would, probably, be near to thetrue amount. It will surprise many persons to learn that the tradebetween the United States and Canadas, carried on chiefly by the lakesand their connecting waters, ranks third in value and first intonnage, in the table of our foreign commerce; being, in value, onlybelow that of England and the French Empire, and in tonnage above theBritish Empire. 

 American goods to Canada $9, 950, 764 Foreign goods 8, 769, 580

 $18, 720, 344 Canadian goods to the States, 12, 182, 314

 $30, 902, 658

We here append a table showing the progress, from decade to decade, ofthe principal centres of population of the plain since 1820. It hasbeen made with all the accuracy which our sources of informationenable us to attain. There are in it, no doubt, many errors, but itwill be found, in the main, and for general argument, substantiallycorrect. For future reference, it will be valuable to persons who takean interest in the development of our new urban communities. Includedin each city are its outlying dependencies--such as Newport andCovington with Cincinnati, and Lafayette with New Orleans. 

 1830. 1840. 1850. 1860. 

 New Orleans 46, 310 90, 000 130, 565 180, 000 Cincinnati 21, 831 47, 000 130, 739 250, 000 St. Louis 5, 852 16, 469 82, 000 180, 000 Chicago 100 4, 650 29, 963 150, 000 Pittsburg 12, 568 25, 000 71, 595 125, 000 Buffalo 8, 653 18, 213 42, 265 100, 000 Montreal 30, 000 40, 000 55, 000 90, 000 Louisville 10, 341 21, 210 43, 194 89, 000 Detroit 2, 222 9, 162 21, 019 80, 000 Milwaukee 50 1, 730 20, 061 75, 000 Cleveland 1, 047 6, 071 19, 377 70, 000 Toronto 1, 677 13, 500 27, 500 70, 000 Rochester 9, 269 20, 191 36, 409 50, 000 Quebec 26, 250 32, 500 41, 200 55, 000 Columbus, O. 2, 450 6, 671 17, 882 40, 000 Mobile 3, 194 12, 672 20, 515 35, 000 Hamilton, C. W. 1, 500 4, 200 13, 000 25, 000 Memphis 1, 500 3, 500 8, 839 25, 000 Nashville 5, 566 6, 929 10, 478 25, 000 Dayton 2, 954 6, 067 10, 977 25, 000 Indianapolis 1, 000 2, 692 8, 034 22, 000 Wheeling, Va. 5, 221 7, 885 11, 435 20, 000 Kingston, C. W. 2, 500 5, 500 10, 000 20, 000 Lockport, N. Y. 3, 800 6, 500 12, 323 20, 000 Oswego 3, 200 4, 665 12, 205 20, 000 Toledo 30 1, 229 3, 829 20, 000 Zanesville 3, 000 6, 000 12, 355 20, 000 est. Est. New Albany 1, 500 4, 000 9, 895 20, 000 est. Est. Peoria 800 2, 000 5, 095 20, 000 est. Est. Quincy, Ill. 1, 000 3, 000 6, 902 20, 000 Galena 2, 000 4, 000 6, 004 20, 000 Dubuque 200 1, 500 3, 108 16, 000 Keokuk . .. 1, 000 2, 478 16, 000 Davenport . .. 500 2, 478 12, 000 Burlington, Ia. . .. 1, 000 1, 848 12, 000 Columbus, Ga. 1, 000 4, 000 5, 052 10, 000 Alton, Ill. 250 2, 500 3, 585 10, 000 Steubenville 2, 964 5, 203 6, 140 9, 000 Chillicothe 2, 840 3, 977 7, 100 9, 000 Grand Rapids, Mich. 300 1, 500 3, 148 9, 000 Huntsville, Ala. 1, 200 1, 500 2, 863 6, 000 Adrian, Mich. 200 1, 800 3, 006 9, 000 Ann Arbor 200 2, 000 4, 868 9, 000 Sandusky City 350 2, 000 8, 500 13, 000 Fort Wayne, Ia. 100 1, 600 4, 282 13, 000 Madison, Ia. 2, 500 4, 500 8, 508 13, 000 St. Paul . .. . .. 1, 012 15, 000 Lafayette, Ia. 200 2, 000 6, 129 13, 000 Maysville, Ky. 1, 800 2, 741 4, 256 9, 000 Terre Haute, Ia. 600 2, 000 4, 900 9, 000 Evansville, Ia. 300 1, 500 3, 235 9, 000 Jeffersonville, Ia. 500 2, 000 3, 487 9, 000 Portsmouth, Ohio 1, 000 2, 000 4, 011 9, 000 Marietta, O. 1, 200 1, 815 5, 254 9, 000 Springfield, Ill. 800 2, 579 4, 553 9, 000 Rock Island City . .. 400 1, 711 8, 000 Chattanooga, Ten. 500 1, 000 3, 500 8, 000 Bytown, or } Ottawa, C. W. } 500 2, 000 5, 000 10, 000 London, C. W. 500 2, 000 5, 000 10, 000 St. Catharines, do. 200 800 4, 000 10, 000 Galveston, Texas 1, 200 2, 000 4, 177 10, 000 Houston, " . .. 500 3, 000 10, 000 Erie, Pa. 1, 260 3, 500 5, 858 10, 000 Lexington, Ky. 4, 500 6, 997 9, 180 10, 000 Ogdensburg 1, 500 3, 000 6, 500 10, 000 Natchez, Miss. 2, 000 3, 000 4, 434 9, 000 Three Rivers, C. E. 800 2, 000 4, 000 8, 000 Racine, Wis. . .. 1, 000 5, 111 9, 000 Waukesha . .. 200 2, 313 8, 000 Marshall, Mich. 200 1, 200 2, 822 8, 000 Pontiac, " 150 1, 300 2, 820 8, 000 P't Huron " 100 400 2, 313 8, 000 Jackson " 150 1, 000 3, 051 6, 000 Kalamazoo " 150 900 2, 363 6, 000 Mineral Pt. , Wis. 500 800 2, 584 6, 000 Kenosha " . .. 500 3, 055 8, 000 Fon du Lac, " . .. 1, 000 3, 451 6, 000 Janesville " . .. 1, 200 2, 782 7, 000 Beloit " . .. 500 2, 732 6, 000 Madison " . .. 100 1, 500 7, 000 Elgin " . .. 100 2, 359 5, 000 Oshkosh, " . .. . .. 2, 500 6, 000 Monroe, Mich. 400 2, 000 2, 813 5, 000 Lansing " . .. 100 1, 229 5, 000 Columbus, Miss. 800 1, 500 2, 611 5, 000 Jacksonville, Ill. 800 1, 500 2, 745 5, 000 Waukegan " . .. 800 2, 949 6, 000 Lasalle " 50 1, 000 3, 201 6, 000 Joliet " . .. 1, 000 2, 659 6, 000 Jefferson City, Mo. 1, 000 2, 000 3, 000 5, 000 St. Joseph " . .. 1, 000 2, 557 5, 000 Independence " . .. 500 3, 500 6, 000 Iowa City, Iowa . .. . .. 1, 582 5, 000 Muscatine " . .. 400 2, 540 6, 000 Springfield, Ohio 1, 080 2, 094 5, 108 8, 000 Newark " 1, 000 2, 705 3, 654 7, 000 Hamilton " 800 1, 409 3, 210 7, 000 Lancaster " 1, 000 2, 120 3, 483 5, 000 Akron " 800 1, 664 3, 266 6, 000 Mt, Vernon " 800 2, 363 3, 711 7, 000 Tiffin " . .. 728 2, 718 7, 000 Urbana " 400 1, 070 3, 414 6, 000 Massillon " 600 1, 300 2, 697 5, 000 Lawrenceburg, Ia. 600 2, 000 3, 487 6, 000 Richmond, Ia. 500 1, 000 1, 443 5, 000 Knoxville, Tenn. 1, 800 . .. 2, 076 6, 000

The preceding table is instructive, showing, as it does, the steadyand rapidly increasing tendency of the people of the plain to seek ahome in cities and villages, notwithstanding the great temptationwhich fertile, cheap, and easily-improved lands hold out to becometillers of the soil and growers of cattle. Stock farming is largelyremunerative, but our western people--wild and uncultivated as theyare supposed to be by those unacquainted with their truecharacter--prefer homes where the advantages of education and socialintercourse is a constant enjoyment. Nowhere in the world areeducational establishments on a better footing or more universallyaccessible than in some of the new States of the centre, as in Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin and other States. 

CHAPTER XII. 

 Michigan Agricultural Reports for 1854 -- Professor Thomas's Report -- Report of J. S. Dixon -- Products of States -- Climate -- Army Meteorological Reports. 

From the Agricultural Reports of the State of Michigan we take thefollowing:--

"From old Fort Mackinaw to the Manistee River, the land immediatelyupon the lake shore, and not unfrequently extending back for manymiles, is considerably elevated, and occasionally rises very abruptlyto the height of from one hundred to three or four hundred feet. Thecountry (more particularly the northern portion) continues to rise aswe proceed into the interior, until it attains an elevation equal toany other portion of the peninsula. 

"This is more particularly the case in the rear of Traverse Bay, wherethis elevation continues for many miles into the interior, giving tothe landscape a very picturesque appearance when viewed from some ofthe small lakes, which abound in this as well as in the more southernportion of the State. 

"The tract of country under consideration is based on limestone, sandstone, and shales, which are covered, excepting at a few points, with a deposit of red clay and sand, varying in thickness from a fewinches to more than four hundred feet. The interior of the northernportion of the peninsula, west of the meridian, is generally morerolling than that on the east. It is interspersed with some extensivecedar swamps and marshes, on the _alluvial_ lands, and in the vicinityof heads of streams and some of the lakes. The upland is generallyrolling, has a soil of clay, loam and sand, and is clad with evergreentimber, intermixed with tracts of beech and maple, varying in extentfrom a few acres to several townships. Several of the most extensiveof these tracts are in the vicinity of the Cheboygan and Tahweegonrivers, their lakes and tributary streams. There are also large tractsof beech and maple timber lying between the head of Grand TraverseBay, and the Manistee and Muskeegon rivers. 

"The elevated portion of land on the shore of Lake Michigan, known asthe 'Sleeping Bear' as well as Manitou Island, (see latitude 45)which, when viewed from a distance, has the appearance of sand, isfound to be composed of alternate layers of highly marly clay andsand. The clay is of a deep red color, and in many places its strataare much contorted. 

"The hilly region, to which allusions have been made, is mostlyheavily timbered with beech, maple, bass, oak, ash, elm, birch, etc. , interspersed with an occasional cedar swamp. In the vicinity of GrandTraverse Bay, this character of country extends into the interior formany miles, bordering on a series of small and beautiful lakes, whichvary in length from two to eighteen miles, and are generally free frommarsh and swamp. This country, as also that in the interior fromLittle Traverse Bay, is well adapted to the purposes of agriculture. 

"Passing south of this rolling district, the country becomes lesselevated and more variable, the soil assuming a more sandy character, and being generally clad with evergreen timber. There are, however, exceptions to this in some fine tracts of beech and maple near thelake coast, also, in the vicinity of some of the streams in theinterior. 

"It is nevertheless true, that there are many extensive swamps andmarshes in this part of the peninsula, but it is doubted whether, uponthe whole, they exceed the quantity or extent of those of the moresouthern part of the State. 

"In point of soil and timber, this portion of the State is notinferior to the more southern--and such are the advantages it offersto the settler, that the day is not distant when it will be sought asa place of residence by the agriculturist. 

"The beauty of its lakes and streams is not anywhere surpassed. Suchis the transparency of their waters as to permit objects to bedistinctly seen at the depth of more that thirty feet. 

"That part of the peninsula situate north of Grand River is usuallyregarded by many of the inhabitants of the more southern part of theState, as being either an impenetrable swamp, or a sandy barren waste, and as possessing too rigorous a climate to admit of its successfulapplication to purposes of agriculture. 

"This is an erroneous opinion, and one which will most certainly becorrected, as the facts with regard to this part of our State comemore fully to be known. The inhabitants of Flat, Royale, Muskegon andWhite Rivers, and the Ottawa Indians, living on the Grand and LittleTraverse Bays, and on the Manistee River, have extensive cultivatedfields, which uniformly produce abundant crops. 

"The country on Flat and Royale Rivers is generally rolling, interspersed with level and knobby tracts; but none is so rough as toprevent it from being successfully cultivated. The timber in thevicinity of the streams consists of black, white, and burr oak, whichis scattering, and forms what is denominated openings and plains;small tracts of pine barrens, beech, maple and oak lands, interspersedwith tracts of white pine. 

"Settlements are rapidly advancing in this part of our State, and muchof the land under cultivation produces excellent crops of wheat, oats, corn, potatoes, etc. , and so far as experience has been brought to thetest, is not inferior to, or more subject to early frosts in the fall, than more southern counties of the State. 

"The soil varies from a light sand to a stiff clay loam. 

"The country on the Muskegon is rolling, and may be considered asdivided into beech and maple land, pine lands, pine barrens, oakopenings, plains and prairies. Small tracts of the latter are situatednear the forks of the river, about forty-five miles from its mouth, and between thirty and forty-five miles north of the Grand River. 

"Crops of corn, oats, wheat, etc. , were here as flourishing as thoseof the more southern part of State. The soil of the prairies andopenings is sandy, while that of the beech and maple lands is a sandand clay loam. 

"The Indians on Grand and Little Traverse Bays and vicinity, alsoobtain good crops of corn, potatoes, squashes, etc. Some of the mostintelligent Indians informed me that they were seldom injured byfrosts in the fall or spring. They also have many apple trees whichproduce fruit in considerable quantities. 

"The soil is strictly a warm one, and, exposed as the whole country, bordering on Lake Michigan, is to the influence of the southern windsduring summer and parts of spring and fall, it seldom fails to beproductive. "

Professor Thomas, Geologist, has placed in our hands the followingreport of the Geology of Mackinaw, Michigan:

"From the site of old Fort Mackinaw, at the very extremity of thepeninsula, south to the Manistee River, a direct distance of about onehundred and forty miles, the immediate shores of the lake are almostinvariably considerably elevated, sometimes rising abruptly to aheight of from three to four hundred feet. 

"The soil of the vicinity, in consequence of the large amount ofcalcareous matter which enters into its composition, possesses afertility that a superficial observer would scarcely ascribe to it. 

"The limestone chiefly consists of an irregular assemblage of angularfragments united by a tufaceous cement. These fragments usually appearat first sight to have a compact structure, but a more minuteexamination shows them to contain _minute_ cells, sufficiently largeto admit water, which, by the action of frost, subjects the rock torapid disintegration. Portions of the rock may, nevertheless, beselected partially free from this difficulty, and which are possessedof sufficient compactness to render them of value as a coarse buildingstone; horn-stone, striped jasper (imperfect); hog-toothed spar, calcareous spar, and fluor spar, are imbedded in the rock, althoughthe latter is of rare occurrence. 

"Lime rock again occurs at the Straits of Mackinaw, and in thevicinity, it appears upon the Island of Mackinac, together with theBois Blanc, Round, and St. Martin's Islands, as also upon the northernpeninsula north from Mackinaw. 

"Gypsum occurs on the St. Martin's group of islands, and also upon thenorthern peninsula between Green Bay and Mackinac. 

"MACKINAW LIMESTONE. --The rock is of a light color, and the fragmentsof which it is composed frequently contain numberless minute cells. These were undoubtedly once filled with spar, which has been washedout of the exposed part of the rock by the action of water. The upperpart is unfit for building purposes, but the lower is more compact, and has marks of regular stratification. 

"COAL. --The coal is highly bituminous, a character in common with allthat has been seen in the State, and it may safely be said, that noneother may be looked for in the peninsula. 

"From the facts now before me, I am led to hope that coal will befound in the elevated hills of the northern part of the peninsula, easterly from Little Traverse Bay, a circumstance which, should itprove to be the case, will add much to the value of that portion ofthe State. "--_Houghton Geological Reports of Michigan. _

"Foster and Whitney, United States Geologists, in their Reports to theGovernment, laid down the Onondago Salt Group of rocks as extendingover a portion of the southern part of the northern peninsula ofMichigan, not a great distance from Mackinaw, and also as existing onthe St. Martin's and Mackinaw Islands. 

"ONONDAGA SALT GROUP. --As a whole, it is an immense mass ofargillo-calcareous shaly rocks, inclosing veins and beds of gypsum;hence this has been designated by some as the 'gypseous shales. '

"Four divisions have been distinguished in the description of theOnondaga Salt Group, though the lines of separation are by no meanswell defined. 

"1. Red and greenish shales below. 

"2. Green and red marl, shale, and shaly limestone with some veins ofgypsum. 

"3. Shaly, compact, impure limestone, with shale and marl, embracing tworanges of plaster beds with hopper-shaped cavities between. 

"4. Drab-colored, impure limestone with fibrous cavities; the'magnesian deposit of Vanuxem. ' Of these, the third is the only onethat has yielded gypsum in profitable quantities. The included massesof gypsum, though, for the most part, even-bedded at their base, areusually very irregular at their upper surface, often conical. Theplaster beds are supposed to be separations by molecular attractionfrom the marl. 

"This third division contains not only the gypseous beds, but is mostprobably the source of all the salt so extensively manufactured atOnondaga, Cayuga, and Madison; at least Vanuxem informs us that, except in these gypseous beds, there is no evidence of salt existingin the solid state in any of the other divisions of the Onondaga SaltGroup. 

"The fourth division is remarkable for a fine columnar structure, orneedle-formed cavities, dispersed through the mass. 

"In the middle counties of New York, the entire thickness of theOnondaga Salt Group must be from six hundred to a thousand feet. Notwithstanding its great thickness, this formation is very barren infossils. The corals and shells of the Niagara group suddenly ceased toexist, perhaps, as Hall suggests, being overwhelmed by a suddenoutbreak of a buried vulcano at the bottom of the ocean, by which thewaters became surcharged not only with argillaceous sediment, butbecame contaminated, either with free sulphuric acid, or sulphate ofmagnesia and soda. 

"The country through which the Onondaga Salt Group extends, is usuallymarked by a series of low, gravelly hills, and clayey valleys, onwhich a stunted growth of timber prevails, known by the name of 'OakOpenings. ' Small portions of sulphate of strontia, galena, and blende, with rhomb spar, occur in the upper portion of the group. Gypsum andsalt are, however, the only minerals of economical value: of theformer many thousand tons are excavated. Several acidulous springsissuing from these deposits, have been found to contain freesulphuric acid. "--_D. D. Owen's Review of the N. Y. GeologicalReports. _

Jules Marcou, in his Geology of the United States, places the northernportion of the southern peninsula of Michigan in the Terrain Devonian. 

Report of J. S. Dixon and others, on Grand Traverse Bay, p. 523, inMichigan Agricultural Reports for 1834, says:

"The atmosphere is moist and wholesome--no disease, and healthy as anyportion of country. It is a well established fact, that water coolsfirst on the surface, then sinks while the warm water rises, andconsequently ice never forms till the whole body of water has beencooled to thirty degrees. Now, from this fact, the philosopher will atonce deduce the climate of this region. Traverse Bay is from onehundred to nine hundred feet deep and the water never cools tothirty-two degrees till the middle of February, and in Lake Michiganin the middle never, and so long as the water in these continuousreservoirs is warmer than the air, the former must obviously warm thelatter. 

"It is accordingly well known that in England, on the east side of theAtlantic 7° or 8° farther north than Traverse Bay, the climate, as itregards cold in winter, is about equal to that of Washington City, and so it is on the east side of the Pacific ocean, in Oregon. Henceit is evident that the seasons on the east side of Lake Michigan mustbe uniform. 

"Around Traverse Bay the frost seldom kills vegetables till inNovember, and seldom occurs in spring later than the 1st of May. InNovember it gets cold enough to freeze. The vapors arising from thelake and bay fall in snow and cover the ground before the frost haspenetrated it at all; it accumulates several months till it is twofeet deep, sometimes deeper, and remains till April; and when it goesoff; cattle find enough to eat in the woods. This region is much moresunny between the middle of March and December than southern Michigan, and every vegetable physiologist will at once state that the influenceof this on vegetation must be very great, and accordingly spring cropsgrow with such rapidity that corn is fit to be cut by the 1st ofSeptember. From December to March, as above, the atmosphere is hazy, cloudy, and frosty, though the thermometer never sinks so low as inthe south of Michigan by ten or twelve degrees (8 or 10 degrees belowzero, being the lowest yet known), and a winter thaw is unknown here. Hence we never have mud in winter, and but little at any season. 

"With the very defective cultivation hitherto used here, yield ofcrops are as follows:--Potatoes, free of rot, 150 to 300 bushels tothe acre; oats 25 to 60; corn 25 to 50; wheat (spring) the largest yetraised 27 bushels. Wheat raised here is much more plump than insouthern Michigan, and there is no instance of its being smothered orinjured by snow, because the snow never thaws and alternately freezesinto a hard crust, or ice, so as to exclude the air from the wheat, asin other places. 

"We confidently predict that this will become the most prolific wheatregion in the west; rust and insects are unknown. All experience goesto prove that this will be a great fruit country. The Indian apple andpeach trees, although few in number bear well every year; and as towild blackberries and raspberries, both as to size and flavor, thereis absolutely no end. They serve all the inhabitants and millions ofpigeons for several months. "

United States census, 1850, shows products of States. 

 Average per acre of Wheat. Oats Corn. Potatoes. Michigan 10 Bushels 26 32 140 Illinois 11 " 29 33 105 Indiana 12 " 20 33 100 Iowa 14 " 36 32 100

 Average per acre of Wheat. Oats Corn. Potatoes. Ohio 12 " 21 36 Wisconsin 14 " 35 30 Pennsylvania 15 " 20 New York 12 " 25 27

CLIMATE. --Council Bluffs is in latitude 41-1/2°, Dubuque 42-3/4°, Green Bay 43-1/2°, and Mackinaw City about 46°. By reference to thefollowing tables of temperature, it will be seen that these points areabout on the same isothermal line, practically removing, by thesetables, the prejudices generally existing against the climate ofnorthern Michigan--see Blodgett's Climatology and Army MeteorologicalReports of United States. 

 Quebec, Canada. Average in January above zero, 13° Montreal, " " " " 16 Hampden, Maine " " " 17 Portland, " " " " 21 Cannel, " " " " 15 Burlington, Vt. " " " 19 Deerfield, Mass. " " " 21 Granville, N. Y. " " " 22 Potsdam, " " " " 18 Plattsburgh, " " " " 20 Gouverneur, " " " " 20 Lowville, " " " " 22 Oneida, " " " " 22 Buffalo, " " " " 23 Silver Lake, Pa. " " " 22 Concord, N. H. " " " 22 Boston, Mass. " " " 28 Albany, N. Y. " " " 24 Chicago, Illinois " " " 24 Ottawa, " " " " 23 Muscatine, Iowa " " " 20 Detroit, Michigan " " " 27 Pittsburgh, Pa. " " " 29 Philadelphia, " " " " 32 Cincinnati, Ohio " " " 30 Green Bay, Wis. " " " 19 Dubuque, Iowa " " " 20 Council Bluffs " " " 19 Mackinaw City " " " 19

These extremes of latitude of Philadelphia and Mackinaw include theprincipal agricultural, mining, manufacturing, and commercialinterests of America, elements naturally pertaining to Michigan, andsecond in their variety and extent to no State of the Union. 

 Archangel, Russia, in January, averages above zero 6. 60° St. Petersburg, " " " " 15. 70 Christiana, Norway, " " " " 21. 30 St. Bernard, Switzerland, " " " " 14. 40 Moscow, Russia, " " " " 13. 60 Erzeroum, Turkey, " " " " 18. Taganwa, Sea of Azof, " " " " 20. 70 Astracan, Caspian Sea, " " " " 21. 30 Kasow (Volga) Russia, " " " " 3. 50 Stockholm, Sweden, " " " " 24. 30 Cracow, Poland, " " " " 23. 40 Pekin, China, " " " " 26. 00 Odessa, S. Russia, " " " " 25. 20 Berlin, Prussia, " " " " 27. 70

Extremes below zero, 1835. 

 Bangor, Maine January 4, below 40° Bath " " " 40 Portland, " " " 21 Boston, Mass. " " 15 Salem, " " " 17 Chicago, Ill. February 8, " 22 St. Louis, Mo. " " 22 Cincinnati, O. " " 18 Lexington, Ky. " " 20 Nashville, Tenn. " " 10 Huntsville, Ala. " " 9 Philadelphia, Pa. " " 6 Lancaster, Pa. " " 22 Washington City " " 16 Clarksville, Geo. " " 15

Army Meteorological Reports for 1854. 

 January. Range. Above below Mean. Max'm. Min'm. Mean. Mean. Fort Hamilton, N. Y. 31. 49° 50. 12. 18. 5 19. 5 Fort Niagara, " 25. 04 48. 6. 23. 19. Alleghany, Pa. 29. 08 64. 5. 34. 9 24. 1 Fort Delaware, Md. 32. 38 54. 10. 21. 6 17. 4 Cincinnati, Ohio 31. 78 54. 1. 22. 2 32. 8 Fort Snelling, Min. 1. 30 45. 36. 43. 7 37. 3 " Leavenworth, Kan. 24. 68 67. 8. 32. 3 32. 7 " Mackinaw, Mich. 13. 09 34. 15. 10. 9 28. 1

Blodgett's and Army Rain Charts, showing rain and snow in inches for aseries of years. 

 Jan. Feb. M'ch. Dec. Total in year. Mack'w Island, Mich. 1. 25 . 82 1. 14 1. 24 23. 87 Fort Kent, Maine. 3. 73 2. 60 1. 77 3. 36 36. 46 Portland, " 3. 37 3. 39 2. 92 4. 17 45. 25

 Jan. Feb. M'ch. Dec. Total in year. Charleston, Mass. 2. 66 2. 22 4. 08 2. 27 35. 83 Montreal, Canada 2. 84 1. 84 2. 69 2. 58 47. 28 Fayetteville, Vt. 3. 93 3. 91 4. 07 3. 55 53. 99 Cincinnati, Ohio. 3. 35 3. 51 3. 93 4. 29 46. 89 Green Bay, Wis. 1. 19 0. 87 1. 70 1. 30 34. 65 Detroit, Mich. 2. 18 1. 38 2. 86 1. 30 30. 07 St. Louis, Mo. 1. 93 3. 37 3. 82 1. 99 41. 95 Fort Hamilton, N. Y. 2. 98 3. 67 3. 65 3. 84 43. 65 Pittsburgh, Pa. 2. 18 2. 17 2. 70 3. 13 34. 96 Philadelphia, Pa. 3. 09 2. 94 3. 43 4. 03 43. 56

CHAPTER XIII. 

 Agricultural interest -- Means of transportation -- Railways and vessels -- Lumber -- Vessels cleared -- Lake cities and Atlantic ports -- Home-market -- Breadstuffs -- Michigan flour -- Monetary panics -- Wheat -- Importations -- Provisions -- Fruit -- Live stock -- Wool -- Shipping business -- Railroads -- Lake Superior trade -- Pine lumber trade -- Copper interest -- Iron interest -- Fisheries -- Coal mines -- Salt -- Plaster beds. 

We copy from the Detroit Tribune of 1860, a somewhat elaborate andlengthy article containing recent and highly important information inregard to the industrial interests of Michigan. Though there areportions of this article which we have to some extent anticipated insome of our previous chapters, we consider it highly important toextract largely from it, because of its more recent date. To allinterested in the development and future growth of the Northwest, itwill prove most valuable. The writer, Mr. Kay Haddock, commercialeditor of the Tribune, says:--

"We know of no similar extent of country on the globe so highlyfavored by nature as our own State, which but twenty-three years sinceemerged from the chrysalis condition of a territory, but which to day, by the quickening influence brought to bear upon her naturaladvantages by an enterprising and enlightened people, possesseselements of wealth and greatness that might well be coveted byempires. The characteristics for which she is pre-eminent are neitherfew in number nor ordinary in character. She occupies the very frontrank in respect to important minerals, as well as in the extent andquality of her forest products, while her fisheries are altogetherunrivaled, and, like her mines and forests, are the source ofexhaustless wealth. With regard to the extent and diversity of hernatural resources, it would indeed seem difficult to over-estimatethem. Predictions that seem visionary to-day, are to-morrow exceededby the reality, as some new treasure is revealed. A glance at the mapis of itself the most eloquent commentary that could be presented withreference to her geographical position. As nature does nothing invain, the shipping facilities afforded by the noble inland seas thatclasp our shores, are a sign and promise of the commercial greatnessthat awaits us in the future. We may well be proud of the conditionof our agricultural interest--that great interest which underliesevery other; which alike gives to the wealthy his opulence and thebeggar his crust. Our farmers have unmistakably indicated theirdetermination to accept of no secondary position in the quality oftheir wheat, and their wool is not only rapidly gaining the first rankas respect the amount produced, but is sought for with avidity for itssuperior quality by all the principal manufacturers of the country. Pomona, too, has thrown her influence in the scale. The region thathas thus far been devoted to the culture of fruit, in proportion toits extent, cannot be surpassed in the Union, if indeed it can beequaled. Such is a faint picture of the 'Peninsular State. '

"The snail-like progress hitherto made in the settlement of a largeshare of the State, is an enigma to those not versed in our earlyhistory. While occupying the position of a dependent of the centralpower at Washington, we were so unfortunate in some instances as tohave men placed over us with whom personal interests were paramount tothe great interests of the territory, which, at the critical periodwhen the seeds of prosperity should have been planted, was fatal toour advancement. Next came the era of Utopian projects of internalimprovement, by which our people were saddled with an onerous load ofdebt. In the mean time immigrants were misled by false reportsconcerning the character of the soil in the interior of the State, andthere were no roads by means of which they could satisfy themselves ofthe true character of the country. They therefore passed on to findhomes upon what then seemed the most attractive prairies of the farWest. But there is at last a great change in the tide of affairs. Thevalue of our timber is justly regarded as greatly overbalancing thedoubtful advantage of settling upon prairie land, and the activedemand that has recently sprung up for it must constantly make a stillgreater difference in our favor. Lands long held in the iron grasp ofspeculators are rapidly coming into the possession of actual settlers. Our State is being intersected by a system of roads, which will erelong demonstrate the necessity of an extension of the system. Ourcourse is indeed onward and upward. 

"Having seen a statement, given upon the authority of some gazeteer, to the effect that about six million dollars were invested in thisState in manufacturing, which we felt assured was a libel upon theState, we have taken steps to procure statistics of the more importantindustrial establishments throughout the entire State. We find that inthe manufacture of pine lumber alone, there are about seven milliondollars invested, exclusive of the standing timber of proprietors, which perhaps might properly be included as part of the capital. "

Such indications of thrift, enterprise, and prosperity in a regionthat twenty-four years ago was a howling wilderness, it may be safelysaid, is without a parallel. The other counties, we are tolerably safein estimating, will swell the amount to $10, 000, 000, making, with thelumber manufactories, and the $2, 148, 500, invested in the ironmanufacture, more than twenty million dollars!

The apathy of the citizens of Detroit in availing themselves of themagnificent advantages possessed by the city for prosecutingmanufacturing upon an extensive scale, is wholly inexplicable. Thereis a mine of unproductive wealth in our midst that might at once beplaced at compound interest. It now lies dormant in the sinewy arms ofmen and the nimble fingers of women and children. There is thus amoral aspect in this question that addresses itself with peculiarearnestness to the philanthropic. But it were a philanthropy thatwould lay up treasures on earth. Daily, almost hourly, raw materialtakes its departure from our city destined to be received at easternmanufactories, there to be worked up and returned to us for ourconsumption, by which we are taxed with the freight both ways, inaddition to losing the profit of the manufacture. Every propertyholder has a direct interest at stake. If a liberal sum were to besubscribed to-morrow for investment in this important branch ofenterprise, the direct benefit that would accrue to the real estate ofthe city would be at least double the amount invested. 

The Western States look with deep interest to the Grand Trunk Railway, and are hopeful that it may prove a great benefit to them in enablingproducers to reach the markets of European consumers at a cheap ratefor carriage. Unquestionably great benefits will grow out of theopening up of the great thoroughfare. At the same time there arequestions of grave importance to shippers which will soon have to bemet, and nothing can be lost, while something may be gained, bymeeting them at the outset. 

We set out, then, with the proposition that the bulky products of theWest must be carried by water and not by rail, and will state a fewfacts that in our humble opinion will place this proposition beyondall cavil. So for as figures can be obtained, and correct calculationsmade, it has been demonstrated that freight cannot be moved onAmerican railroads for less than one cent per ton per mile. This isactually the _first cost_, even in the coal regions of Pennsylvania. It is therefore fair to presume that the Grand Trunk, with concededadvantages of superior and economical management, cannot move freightat a less cost, and that the figure named will yield nothing to thestockholders in the shape of dividend. It is true that freight hasbeen carried at an actual loss, and, as we are about to show, the samething will to some extent be done again, but if persevered in this canonly result in ruin, and no one will assert that it ought to be takenas a legitimate basis for future calculations. It follows, then, that$8, 80 is the lowest sum for which a ton can be moved from Detroit toPortland, the distance between the two cities being eight hundred andeighty miles. This showing may not be relished by those mostimmediately interested in the Grand Trunk Railway, nor may it bepalatable to the producers of the West, who have built high hopes onthis road as an outlet to the Atlantic, but it is useless to attemptto shut our eyes to obvious facts. The West has for years possessedshorter and consequently cheaper routes to the seaboard, and in winterthe cost of reaching-the Atlantic cities has always been and now isfrom 100 to 200 per cent, greater by rail than during the navigationseason by the cheaper mode. This is easily proved. Let us look at thedistance by the old route by the way of Suspension Bridge:

Detroit to Suspension Bridge, is 232 miles; the Bridge to Albany, 300;Albany to Boston 200; total 732. 

Thus we see that the whole distance from Detroit to Boston is sevenhundred and thirty-two miles, or one hundred and forty-eight _less_than from Detroit to Portland. As regards shipments from Detroit toBoston, via the Grand Trunk, the matter is worse, for we have to addone hundred and three miles from Portland to Boston, making the oldroute two hundred and fifty-three miles shorter to that point than bythe newly opened road. It is evident therefore, that the West is notlikely to gain anything permanently by the new route, except in so faras it may open up some local trade, which, inconsiderable at first, may eventually assume considerable importance. Of course, what is trueregarding Detroit, is also true with respect to every point west ofus. 

Every one conversant with trade must admit that goods can be carriedas cheap from any port in Europe to New York as to Portland. Thedistance from New York to Detroit, _via_ Albany and SuspensionBridge, is six hundred and eighty-two miles, or one hundred andninety-eight miles less than from Portland to Detroit. Goods oughtcertainly to be carried cheaper from New York to Detroit than by aroute near two hundred miles further. 

We learn that the New York Central Railroad Company are now perfectinga plan for ticketing passengers and goods from any point in theWestern, Southern, and Southwestern States, and _vice versa_. Thus atleast one important advantage to the West is already apparent, growingout of the comprehensive action of the Grand Trunk managers, while theaction of the New York Central is the sure precursor of a momentousera in railroad annals. The present year is likely to witness thefirst battle in a war for the European and domestic trade of the West, that may in the end turn the entire current into other channels. Itwill be a strife of giants, and the prize the most magnificent everbattled for, either in the tented field or in the nobler contests ofnations for commercial supremacy. That prize is the carrying trade ofan empire fast rising into manly vigor, and destined to attain to apoint during the present generation that will dazzle the world withits vastness and grandeur. On one side will be arrayed the Grand TrunkRailway, with its sixty million dollars of capital, backed by thegovernment of Canada, and sustained by every merchant of the BritishNorth American colonies, aided by powerful friends in Europe--men ofcharacter, standing and capital, who will strain every nerve to supplytheir darling road with business, in which they will have the sympathyof the whole English people--for in both England and Canada the GrandTrunk is looked upon as a great triumph of national engineering skill, while at the same time it gratifies the national pride, as it givesthe world one more convincing proof of that indomitable pluck that isthe chief secret of the great celebrity attained by the merchants ofthe "fast anchored isle" for commercial enterprise. 

On the other side will be marshaled the forces of the "Grand Trunk"lines of railroad leading to the Western States from the Atlanticseaboard. The most prominent on the list is the New York CentralRailroad, with her natural allies, the Great Western of Canada, theHudson River Railroad, and the Western Railroad of Massachusetts. Nextin order, as parties in the struggle, are the New York and Erie, thePennsylvania Central, and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, not tospeak of the local roads in Ohio, Indiana, and Michigan, that will beaffected more or less in the contest for supremacy. 

The Grand Trunk will fight under one banner, and that banner willcarry on its broad folds the commercial prestige of the BritishEmpire, and will have the sympathy of the British people. This, whichwill probably carry with it, as a coincident, plenty of the "sinews ofwar, " will be decidedly a vantage ground to stand upon. 

The American interests will come into the field under differentleaders, having no unity of action, and hating and fearing each other;who have never had confidence in each others' words or actions; whohave never displayed any generosity toward each other; whose dealingswith each other have been marked by cheating and bad faith, as thebreaking of all convention treaties has proved. Under such a load ofdemoralization, all of them combined are perhaps not more than a matchfor the Grand Trunk. One of the American roads will have to stand inthe van and sustain the first onset, and the elected one will be theNEW YORK CENTRAL. In every point of view it is the one best able to doso. It is managed and controlled by men of large experience and ironwill--men who do not know what defeat is, and who, come what may, will show that their metal has the true ring. 

The result of such a contest none can foresee; albeit after the smokeof the battle is cleared away, the wreck will only show that it hasbeen a costly and useless fight for the stockholders, and theconviction that God's highways are superior to man's will gainstrength, insomuch as to assume far more practical importance than ithas hitherto attained. The only method of carrying on a successfultrade between the Western States and the seaports of Europe, is bywater, and to this conclusion all must come, in the end, on both sidesof the Atlantic. 

In order to make the trade productive of substantial benefit to allinterested in it, the West must have free course down the St. Lawrence, and an enlargement of the Canadian canals, so that vesselsof say eighteen hundred tons can pass down to the ports of Montrealand Quebec without unloading, and continue on their way to Europewithout breaking bulk. A depth of fourteen feet water, with locks ofcorresponding capacity on the canals would accomplish this importantend. The multifarious and rapidly increasing products of the GreatWest, her timber, flour, wheat, corn, oats, rye, barley, pork, beef, butter, lard, cheese, meal, and every description of agriculturalproduce could then be laid down in the ports of England so cheaplythat it would greatly reduce the cost of the necessaries of life, andgive a new impetus to the manufacturing interest of Great Britain. Atthe same time it would directly tend to cheapen every article that theWest requires to import, thus proving of double advantage to ourproducers. In both cases the producer and consumer would be broughtface to face, to the obvious advantage of all concerned. Themanufacturing prosperity of England depends upon an unlimited supplyof cheap labor, and that supply cannot be had unless she can supplysuch laborers with an unlimited supply of cheap food. The West has thecapacity not only to furnish an inexhaustible quantity of cheap food, but it can purchase and consume a larger amount of the productions ofEnglish skill and labor than any other section of the world. Why, then, cannot both parties hit on some scheme that will bring them moreclosely into the fellowship of trade? It can be done, if both willunite to obtain an unimpeded outlet via the St. Lawrence for vesselsand steamers of heavy burden. So far as Quebec and Montreal areconcerned, it is very difficult to say whether the consummation of theproposed enlargement would redound most to their benefit, or to thatof our Western lake cities. In both cases the gain would be beyondcomputation. The two important Canadian cities named would become atonce important seaports. They would become two of the depots for thevast commerce of two continents, and would derive great benefits fromthe opening up of a local traffic with the West, which at presentamounts to but very little, so far as they are concerned. Our lakecities would all become large commercial centres, and would supply thepopulation of the region tributary to them, respectively, with drygoods, crockery, hardware, paints, oils, and all kinds of importedmerchandise, at a cheaper rate by a considerable per centage, thanthey could be purchased at New York, or any city on the Atlantic. Detroit would be much nearer Liverpool than Buffalo now is by theusual route, and Chicago and Milwaukee would be almost as near, practically. 

A few figures will show the decided advantage of water over rail as amedium of transporting the bulky products of the West to market. 

It has already been shown that a ton of any kind of freight cannot belaid down at Portland from Detroit, by rail, under $8. 80, without aloss to the stockholders, nor to Boston under $9. 65, except with thesame result; nor at New York _via_ the Great Western, New YorkCentral, and Hudson River roads under $6. 82, without actual loss tothose roads, so that the case would stand thus:--Detroit to Portland, per ton, _via_ G. T. R. , $8. 80; Detroit to Boston, do. Do. , $9. 85;Detroit to New York, $6. 82. Add $4. 00 per ton for ocean freights, andwe have in each case respectively, $12. 80, $13. 85, and $10. 82 per tonto Liverpool. 

Now we maintain that a screw steamer of 1800 tons burden, costing, when completed, $150, 000, can carry much cheaper than a road like theGrand Trunk, costing $60, 000, 000, or the New York Central and itsconnections. A steamer of that capacity would carry 1, 500 tons offreight; 600 tons of coal would run her across the Atlantic, and shecould coal from Chicago or Detroit to Newfoundland, and from thelatter point to Liverpool. By doing this, she could carry 300 tonsmore freight than if she coaled for the entire voyage from Chicago toLiverpool. All the principal exports and imports of Michigan, Indiana, Western Ohio, Kentucky, &c. , would find their way to Detroit, and thispoint would of necessity become the great centre of the direct tradebetween Europe and the States above mentioned. 

Two steamers per week could be run with profit on the route during theseason of navigation; each steamer would make two round trips and ahalf per season of seven months' navigation, allowing two months foreach round trip. At this rate sixteen ocean steamers would be requiredto make up a semi-weekly line, and were the Canadian canals enlargedand ready for use by the middle of next April, there would be at oncesufficient trade to sustain them, at much cheaper rates for freightand passage than is now charged by any route or combination of routesin existence, as the following will show conclusively:

Each round trip would give the following sums for freight andpassage:--1500 tons of freight at $6 per ton, $9, 000; 40 cabinpassengers at $50 each, $2, 000; 50 steerage do. Do. $25 each, $1, 250. Total for the trip out, $12, 250. Inward bound:--600 tons freight at$6, $3, 600; 75 cabin passengers at $60, $4, 500; 300 steerage do. Do. , $30, $9, 000--$17, 100. Add outward receipts, $12, 250. Total, $29, 350. The total cost of the trip, including insurance, would not exceed$14, 000. Total net profits, $15, 250. 

It will be seen by the above figures that our staple products can becarried to England in the right kind of vessels, at one half the costthat railroads and connecting steamers can perform the same service, even when the latter carry at a rate that brings no profit to theshareholders, while the former would pay large dividends. At the ratesnamed for passage (but little more than one-half the present cost ofgoing from Detroit to England) crowds of the European settlers in thiscountry would flock to the mother country to see dear friends andrelatives, and tens of thousands of the American people would embracethe opportunity to behold the tombs and temples and wonders of theland from whence their ancestors came. A feeling of friendship of thetrue stamp would spring up spontaneously between the Anglo-Saxon raceson each side of the Atlantic that never could be severed, and whichwould alternately shed the blessings of Christianity and civilizationto every corner of the world. Such free intercourse would show that tobe appreciated by each other they only need to be better acquainted. And it is our firm belief, that the day that beholds the commencementof direct trade between the old world and in the inland seas of theGreat West, by vessels of the class named, will see a day of glory andpromise brighter and greater than has ever yet dawned on any effortsput forth to subdue the world by human means, to peace and universalbrotherhood. 

Our readers are aware that a trade of great importance has sprung upwithin two or three years between Detroit and other lake ports, andthe leading seaports of Europe. The particulars of its inaugurationare already familiar to the public. Of the vessels which cleared hencein this trade in 1858, one was owned and sent out by a merchant ofthis city; another was loaded by a Cleveland house; the others wereall owned or chartered by Capt. D. C. Pierce, the enterprising pioneerof the trade. His first venture on the _Kershaw_, notwithstanding somefew incidental circumstances that worked to his disadvantage, wasproductive of some direct profit, but a much greater profit inured tohimself, and those who followed him in this important commerce, by hisbecoming well versed in the European trade, insomuch as to be enabledto avail himself of the peculiar advantages offered by each market, aswell as in determining the character of freight most profitable tocarry. The cheapest, best and safest means of transporting thediversified products of the West, and particularly the region of whichDetroit is the centre, to the European markets, returning with foreignfabrics in exchange, had long challenged the attention of capitalists, who saw in it the germ of a mighty commerce, but seemed to lack thepractical knowledge and tact to put the ball in motion. Last yeartwenty-one vessels cleared from the different lake ports, mostly fromDetroit. 

Another important point which is now in a fair way to be gained, isthe making of European consumers acquainted with the fact that theirwants can be supplied to any desired extent. When this informationbecomes general the consumption must be vastly stimulated, affordingone of the most inviting fields for enterprise known in the commercialannals of the world. The resources of the State are amply sufficientto afford employment for half a century to a tenfold larger number ofvessels than have yet engaged in it. By a carefully compiled estimate, it has been ascertained that in prosperous times the annual product ofour _pineries_ is hard upon TEN MILLION DOLLARS. Large as this sum is, it is the opinion of those who are well qualified to form an estimate, that it may easily be surpassed by the product of our hard timber. Take for example the region around Saginaw Bay, which is perhaps themost remarkable locality in the world as respects the quality andvariety of hard wood timber. Here, for near a hundred miles in extent, upon streams debouching into the bay, are dense forests of thechoicest oak, with a profusion of hickory, black walnut, white ash, whitewood, and other desirable varieties. The manufacture ofagricultural implements, as well as many other articles that affordemployment to the toiling millions of the old world, must receive anew impetus when it is found that wood admirably adapted to theirconstruction can be had direct from our forests at the moderate rateat which it will bear transportation. So of birds-eye maple forcabinet ware, red elm for carriage hubs, and other varietiesapplicable to specific uses. We have designated only such as abound ingreat plenty. The profusion of the growth is in fact equaled only byits accessibility, the whole country being so permeated by streamsthat it can be floated off with very little trouble. 

The Saginaw District, important and extensive as it is, comprises buta small portion of our hard-wood lumber region. In addition tonumerous almost interminable forests in the north, equally accessibleand almost equally valuable, there are extensive regions in theinterior where timber abounds of such choice quality as to abundantlywarrant railroad transportation hither. Although some of the shipmentslast season were of the far-famed Canada oak, shippers all concur inassuring us that the Michigan timber was held in as high estimation, if not higher, than any other offered in the foreign market. A mostsignificant fact, coming right to the point, came under ourobservation a few months since. In the summer of 1858, five passengercars for the Michigan Southern Road were built at Adrian, whichunprejudiced judges pronounced the finest ever built in the UnitedStates. Every foot of timber in them--as well as every pound ofiron--was of Michigan production. Last spring, after being in use sometwenty months, these cars were for the first time overhauled forrepairs, along with a number of eastern cars which had been in use fora like period of time, when it was found that the latter, owing to theinferior quality of timber, cost for repairs nearly as many dollars asthe Michigan cars did cents! We have the authority of gentlemen of thehighest respectability for stating this as a literal fact. 

The following is a complete list of the vessels which cleared forEuropean ports the past year, together with the character of theircargoes, respectively, and the port to which they sailed:--

 Bark D. C. Pierce, Staves, Liverpool. " Allies, Lumber and staves, Cork. " W. S. Pierson, Lumber and staves, Greenock. " Massillon, Lumber and staves, Liverpool. Brig J. G. Deshler, Staves, Glasgow. " Caroline, Lumber and staves, Liverpool. " Black Hawk, Staves, London. Schr R. H. Harmon, Staves, Liverpool. " J. F. Warner, Staves, Liverpool. " Gold Hunter, Staves, Cork. " Dousman, Staves, London. " Valeria, Lumber and staves, Liverpool. " Vanguard, Staves, Liverpool. " Grand Turk, Lumber, Hamburg. " St. Helena, Lumber and staves, Cork. " Chieftain, Lumber and staves, London. " C. H. Walker, Lumber and staves, Liverpool. " M. S. Scott, Lumber, Hamburg. " E. Bates, Lumber and staves, Liverpool. " H. Barclay, Staves, London. " Republican, Lumber and staves, Cadiz. " Messenger, Staves, &c. Calais. 

Of the above, Messenger cleared from Buffalo; the Pierson andRepublican hailed from Milan, Ohio; the Massillon and Valeria fromCleveland; the Scott loaded at St. Joseph, and was sent out by aMilwaukee house; all the others either loaded at this port, or wereowned or chartered here. Eight of the number were chartered by Messrs. Aspinwall & Son, and two of the others were owned here. 

The following is the aggregate amount of lumber and staves shipped toEurope the past year, exclusive of the cargoes from Cleveland, Milan, and Buffalo:--

 West India staves No. 692, 057 Standard pipe staves, No. 142, 662 Lumber, feet 474, 693

[A Quebec standard pipe is equal to four West India staves. ]

The Lily of Kingston, was the first vessel that ever passed down fromthe lakes to the ocean, bound to an European port. Her destination wasLiverpool. This was about the year 1847. She afterward sailed in theQuebec and Liverpool trade, but was lost, we believe, on her thirdocean voyage. 

As collateral to this trade, an important commerce has sprung upbetween the lake cities and the Atlantic ports which promise toincrease rapidly. Prior to 1857, the passage of vessels from theWelland Canal to the ocean was of very rare occurrence. As a matter ofcuriosity, we present a complete statement of the vessels which havepassed through the canal bound for Atlantic or European ports, withthe year of sailing, avoiding a repetition of the list above given. The Dean Richmond, and those clearing in 1857 and 1858, all sailed forEurope. Those designated in this list as having sailed in 1859, allcleared for Atlantic ports:

 1847 American steam revenue cutter Dallis. " Canadian barque Arabia. 1848 American barque Eureka. 1850 Canadian schooner Scotia. 1854 Canadian schooner Cherokee. 1855 Canadian bark Reindeer. 1856 American schooner Dean Richmond. 1857 American bark C. J. Kershaw. " English schooner Madeira Pet. 1858 American brig Black Hawk. " American schooner R. H. Harmon. " American schooner Col. Cook. " American schooner Correspondent. " American bark D. C. Pierce. " American schooner D. B. Sexton. " American schooner John E. Warner. " American bark H. E. Warner. " American bark C. J. Kershaw. " American schooner C. Reeve. " American schooner Harvest. " American bark Parmelia Flood. 1859 American bark Magenta. " American brig Sultan. " American brig Indus. " American brig Kate L. Bruce. " Canadian schooner Union. " American schooner Kyle Spangler. " American schooner Muskingum. " American schooner Adda. " American schooner Clifton. " American schooner Metropolis. " American schooner Energy. " American schooner W. B. Castle. " American schooner Alida. " American tug Uncle Ben. " American tug Cushman. " American schooner Typhoon. " American schooner Sarah Hibbert. 

Presuming that those who may hereafter become interested in thiscommerce, would like the benefit of the experience of those who havealready embarked it, we have procured some valuable information fortheir benefit. First, as to the kind of timber most profitable toship: Although black walnut appears to be growing in favor, and whereonce it has been used is again inquired for, yet a decided preferenceis given to oak, with the qualities of which all are entirelyfamiliar. Choice, selected oak commands more money for cabinetpurposes in all the foreign markets than the same quality of blackwalnut. Contrary to previous expectation, it is not likely that thelatter can ever be brought into general use in Great Britain. It isthe greatest mahogany market in the world, and that wood is inuniversal use, particularly the common or cheap kind. If ever socommon, it is not liable to warp, which cannot be said of blackwalnut, although, as we have before intimated, those who have workedit, praise it very highly. Beech, elm and ash, are used for a greatmany purposes, and are in good demand, but oak commands more moneythan either of them, and is therefore the most profitable to ship atpresent. 

The fact is not generally known, but the information has beenpurchased at a dear rate, that the purchase of lumber for the foreignmarket by board-measure, instead of cubic, involves a heavy loss. InEuropean markets all lumber is sold by the cubic foot, so that thecost of sawing is completely thrown away. Black walnut, for example, cannot be laid down in Detroit, or any lake port, under $18 to $20 perM. , while the lumber can be obtained for $125 to $150 per M. Cubicfeet, 1, 000 feet cubic measure being equal to 12, 000 feet boardmeasure. Thus in purchasing by cubic measure, the buyer pays only $125to $150 for an amount that by board measure would cost $216 to $240, making a clear difference of _ninety dollars_ upon only one thousandcubic feet, equal to $900 upon a cargo of some of the vessels engagedin the trade last year. The same rule would apply substantially toother kinds of lumber. Independent of this, a decided preference isgiven to lumber in the log, owing to the good condition in which itcan be delivered. There is one more point which manufacturers as wellas shippers should bear in mind. The value of much of the lumber sentout was greatly impaired by being attached to the heart, which is themost porous part of the tree, and therefore most liable to crack. Toobviate this objection the saw should pass upon each side of theheart, thus leaving the whole of it attached to a single piece oftimber, instead of one or more pieces, and thereby making only onecull. By observing this rule a difference will be made in the marketof thirty or forty per cent. 

Are staves or lumber the more profitable to ship? This depends uponcircumstances. Last year it was very dull for both. For stavesespecially the season could not, for various reasons, have been moreunfavorable. In the first place, the grape crop was a very short one, not only in France, but in all the vine countries, including theCanaries. This, of course, greatly lessened the demand for staves, andthere were consequently very few taken from England to France, although French vessels are in the habit of taking them for ballast ata merely nominal rate, owing to the difficulty they experience inprocuring return freights from England. The short crops in Canada andthe great scarcity of money, forced an unusual number of laborers inthat country into the stave and lumber business. Under advices thatheavy shipments were in prospect, coupled with the general check uponbusiness on account of the war, prices became depressed. Notwithstanding all this, the shipments hence, being early in themarket, sold to advantage, and may therefore be considered as a signalsuccess, under the circumstances. The smallest vessel going out fromhere netted a freight of $3, 500. 

The most striking feature with regard to Detroit, in a commercialpoint of view, is her admirable location, which constitutes her themetropolis of a vast region, than which no city off the seaboard canboast one equally grand or important. The region embraces a circuit ofsome three thousand miles, composed of land and water, which both seemto vie with each other in contributing to the material prosperity ofour city, while every interest involved is benefited in some degree byher. In the far north, where the rugged coast of the upper peninsulais lashed by the waters of the monarch of lakes, Detroit enterpriseassists in redeeming the hidden treasures of the earth from theirstate of profitless inertion. There is not a hardy delver in the mineswho is not familiar with the skill of Detroit machinists, nor an echoin all the majestic wilds skirting that noble expanse of waters, thathas not been awakened by Detroit steamers. Further down upon thelimpid waters of Lake Huron, where the army or rather the navy offishermen set their nets for the capture of the finny tribes, here, too, our city possesses an interest almost as direct as if the canvasof their tiny crafts were spread within sight of her spires, theproduct comprising one of the most important staples in her multiformcommerce. Last, but not least, is the great lumber region with whichthe prosperity of Michigan is so largely identified. The population ofthis region, as well as of the others we have referred to, raisealmost literally nothing for their own consumption, their respectivepursuits being inconsistent with that of tillers of the soil, so thatin addition to the usual stores required by farmers, they have topurchase their breadstuffs and similar supplies. The bulk of these arebought of our dealers, this being not only the most convenient, butthe cheapest and best market, as is amply proven by experience. 

Under the appropriate head will be found a complete and authenticstatement of the commerce of the Saut St. Mary Canal, by which it willbe seen that the aggregate value of the upward-bound freight isestimated at $5, 298, 640. The up-freight nearly all carried bysteamers, of which the number running the entire season was seven, three from Detroit, one from Chicago, and three from Cleveland. TheDetroit boats have generally been loaded to their utmost capacity, while we have the word of the Cleveland captains to the effect thattwo-thirds of their cargoes are usually taken on at this port. Wemust therefore be clearly within bounds in claiming thatthree-fourths of the above amount is part and parcel of the commerceof our city which would show our Lake Superior exports to be$3, 960, 000. In seasons in which the crops of our Canadian neighborspartially fail--a common occurrence within the past few years, butwhich we hope may never occur again--they naturally become ourcustomers; and since the partial destruction of the wheat crop in Ohiolast summer by frost, there have been considerable shipments ofbreadstuffs to Cleveland, Toledo, Sandusky, etc. , which may veryproperly be included in the home traffic. 

The shipments of flour and grain for the supply of our home trade bylake craft, from the opening of navigation for the year 1859, asappears by the books of our Custom House, are as follows:

 Flour. Wheat. Corn. Port Huron 10, 885 253 6, 916 Saginaw 3, 790 30 Cleveland 6, 155 28, 057 1, 146 Thunder Bay 106 Green Bay 175 Northport 175 Sandusky 705 Huron, O. 660 Toledo 665 616 Lake Superior 11, 321 Other American ports 245 Malden 1, 289 160 14, 548 Chatham 3, 671 1, 736 Wallaceburg 705 Goderich 318 1, 274 Saugeen 168 Bayfield 200 Other Canadian ports 1, 330 95 749

There were also 7, 446 bushels oats to Port Huron, and 588 bushels do. To other ports, beside 3, 400 bushels corn, and 11, 962 bushels oatswhich were included in the heavy shipments to Lake Superior. We givethe places for which vessels cleared; many of the shipments were forintermediate ports. Besides the flour and grain there were largeshipments of pork, butter, lard, meal, etc. , etc. 

The above were all by water. There were in addition large localshipments to various points on the Great Western, the Detroit andMilwaukee, and other roads, that may with equal propriety be regardedas pertaining to the home trade. 

The article of corn is one to secure customers, for in Canada it isnot essential there should be short crops there. Large amounts aretaken for the supply of the numerous distilleries on that side. Asingle house in our city has sold the past year 100, 000 bushels forthat purpose. 

During the year commodities have been interchanged by lake craftbetween Detroit and no fewer than sixty-three lake and river ports, tosay nothing of the hundreds of towns and cities on the variousrailroads that are daily trading with us. We have not included thoseports to which the bulk of our surplus produce is forwarded, but onlysuch as come strictly within the scope of our subject. There are fewplaces where trade develops statistics of similar character, oranything approximating thereto, while there are plenty of cities of noinconsiderable pretensions, and even great advantages, that wouldthink themselves made if they possessed one-fourth the commercialfacilities we enjoy. 

Within the past year, by the opening up of new and most importantchannels of railway communication, our position with respect to thegreat railway system of the continent, is rendered all that could bedesired. In that regard it is indeed difficult to point out how anyimprovement could be made. With respect to our local advantages, however, admirable as they are, there is yet much in store for us. Thesigns are far more favorable than at any former period for the rapidsettlement of the State, as well as for the more adequate developmentof her resources. We are constantly receiving intelligence that somenew source of wealth has been revealed within our borders, or that onepreviously discovered is likely to surpass the expectations at firstentertained. These events must not only tend directly to hasten thesettlement of the State, but also add in a still greater ratio to hercommercial importance and her wealth. 

If we were to fail to refer, in this connection, to the law passed byour legislature last winter, providing for the reclamation of the"swamp lands, " technically so called, and inaugurating an admirablesystem of State roads throughout all the upper portions of the State, we should be ignoring decidedly the most pregnant of the signs ofpromise. In adopting so well-timed and beneficent a measure, ourlaw-givers have proved themselves worthy guardians of a commonwealthwhose interests so plainly bespeak a much greater degree of wiselegislation than has heretofore been wielded for her benefit. Next inimportance to these wholesome measures, is the law providing for theappointment of Commissioners of Emigration--one resident here, and theother stationed in New York. Those seeking homes in the West have onlyto be made aware of the unequaled inducements presented by ourState, to secure immense accessions to our population. 

Detroit does not alone reap the benefit of her advantageous position. It is shared by all interests, but perhaps by none others to so greatan extent as the tillers of the soil. It is a most significant factthat breadstuffs and provisions not unfrequently bring as high priceshere as in New York, giving producers all the advantages at home of aseaboard market, and virtually putting the cost of shipment into theirpockets. Thus a farmer whose land possesses a nominal value of ten ortwenty dollars per acre, can enjoy all the pecuniary advantages of alocation near one of the largest eastern cities, where farms arevalued at one to two hundred dollars per acre. This fact alone shouldgo very far toward transforming our northern wilderness intocultivated fields. 

As a matter of interest, and to some extent of curiosity, we present acomparative statement exhibiting the ruling prices of extra Michiganflour twice a month throughout the year, in Detroit, New York andLiverpool, and also the prices in the latter market, for thecorresponding dates in the year 1858:

 Liverpool, '58. Liv'L, '59. N. York, '59. Detroit, '59. Jan. 1st. 5 76a6 74 4 80a5 04 4 95a5 15 5 00a5 12 " 15th. 5 76a6 24 4 80a5 04 5 60a5 85 5 00a5 12 Feb. 1st. 5 76a6 24 4 80a5 04 5 90a6 40 5 75a6 00 " 15th. 5 52a6 00 4 80a5 04 5 90a6 25 6 25a6 50 Mar'h 1st. 5 52a6 24 4 80a5 04 6 30a6 50 6 25a6 50 " 15th. 5 52a6 24 4 80a5 04 6 50a6 75 6 50a6 75 April 1st. 5 28a5 52 4 80a5 04 6 30a6 75 a6 75 " 15th. 5 28a5 76 4 80a5 04 6 00a6 60 a6 50 May 1st. 5 28a5 52 5 04a5 28 6 25a6 75 a6 50 " 15th. 5 28a5 52 6 00a6 24 7 30a7 85 a8 00 June 1st. 5 04a5 28 a5 76 7 00a7 40 a7 50 " 15th. 5 04a5 28 a5 76 6 70a7 05 7 12a7 25 July 1st. 5 04a5 28 a 6 00a6 50 a7 25 " 15th. 5 08a5 40 5 04a5 28 5 45a6 00 7 00a7 12 Aug. 1st. 5 28a5 40 4 80a5 52 4 90a5 50 4 75a4 87 " 15th. 5 04a5 28 5 04a5 52 4 30a4 65 4 50a4 75 Sept. 1st. 5 16a5 40 5 04a5 52 4 40a5 00 4 62a4 75 " 15th. 5 16a5 40 4 80a5 52 4 65a4 85 4 25a4 50 Oct. 1st. 5 04a5 28 5 28a5 76 4 75a5 10 4 62a4 75 " 15th. 5 04a5 28 5 28a5 76 4 80a5 20 a4 75 Nov. 1st. 5 04a5 28 5 52a6 00 5 00a5 30 a5 00 " 15th. 4 80a5 04 5 76a6 24 5 24a5 45 a5 12 Dec. 1st. 4 80a5 04 6 76a7 00 5 45a5 65 a5 12 " 15th. 4 80a5 04 6 76a7 00 5 48a5 65 a5 12

The Detroit mills manufacture excellent flour, and it is to beregretted that they are not capable of making a much larger quantityof their well-known brands. There are six flouring mills of differentcapacities in the city, and although they are generally at full worksuch is the demand for flour they make, that they are very often notable to supply their customers. These mills ought to be enlarged, orothers built. Detroit, the commercial metropolis of a greatwheat-growing State, should be capable of manufacturing an immensequantity of flour. The increased expenditure of money, in the purchaseof wheat, would be very beneficial to the trade of the city. 

For the last fifteen years, the exports of breadstuffs from the UnitedStates have fluctuated very much. In 1846 they amounted to nearlytwenty-eight millions of dollars, and rose in 1847 to sixty-ninemillions. In 1848 they fell to thirty-seven, and in 1852 to twenty-sixmillions. In 1853 they amounted to nearly thirty-three millions, andin 1854 they rose to about sixty-millions, but fell in 1855 to aboutthirty-nine millions, and again rose in 1857 to seventy-sevenmillions. In 1858 they again declined to about fifty millions. Wecannot accurately detail the exports of 1859, but they have been verylight on account of fall in the European market, after the terminationof the war in Italy. During these years there were various causes forthe remarkable fluctuations which we have noted; namely, famine inIreland, the Crimean war, and the failures of the harvest at home andabroad, nor have these exportations been regularly divided or spreadover the various months of each year. They have increased ordiminished according to the European demand, governed by the supply athome and regulated by advices from the other side of the Atlantic. Itis likely that the export of breadstuffs in 1860 will be veryconsiderable. 

Michigan possesses many advantages over her sister States, and theseenable her to bear up against monetary panics better than they. Herimmense length of lake coast is indented with excellent harbors, whichinvite commerce from every quarter, and furnish excellent outlets forher surplus produce or mineral wealth. The great and diversifiedresources of the State support her in the evil day, and bring herthrough a commercial crisis in safety. From the ushering in of theyear to the close, there is not a day in which the marts of commerceare not enlivened by the contributions of grain or live stock from ourfields, fish from our lakes, lumber from our forests, or ores ofvarious kinds from our inexhaustible mines. 

According to the census returns of 1840, the State of Michiganproduced 2, 157, 108 bushels of wheat, there were 190 flouring mills atwork, employing 491 hands, and producing 202, 880 barrels of flourannually. In 1853 this State produced 7, 275, 032 bushels of wheat, there were 245 flouring mills at work, employing 604 persons, andmanufacturing 1, 000, 000 barrels of flour in a year. It will be seenthat the flouring mills have increased greatly both in number andcapacity since 1840, and that very large quantities of flour are nowmanufactured in the interior of the State, a circumstance which partlyaccounts for the comparatively small quantity of wheat that is nowexported. The number of flouring mills have doubtless increased since1853, and as steam power has been applied in many instances theirmanufacturing capacity must now be very great. Farmers are beginningto understand the importance of disposing of their produce near home, and having the surplus exported in a manufactured state, instead ofsending away the raw material; the bran and "shorts" being veryvaluable for mixing with the food of horses, cattle, and swine. Aflouring mill is a great benefit in a rural district, it furnishes thefarmer with a home market, and when he receives the price of hisproduce, there are many domestic wants which must be supplied, and onthis account we always see stores and mechanics' shops clusteringaround a mill, and villages springing up in places where the solitudeof the forest was, until lately, unbroken by a sound. It is evidentthat the mill power of Michigan is increasing rapidly, and that infuture the greater part of the surplus grain crop will be exported ina manufactured state. 

In former years the prices of grain in the United States werecontrolled by the European markets, and consequently the grain tradeof the Western States was governed by the produce merchants in theAtlantic ports, but lately the whole order of things seems to havebeen reversed, as breadstuffs of every kind were dearer in the Westernthan in the Eastern markets. There were several reasons for thisanomaly. On account of the ravages of insects, and other causes whichwe have alluded to, farmers were induced to place very little relianceon the wheat crop, and many were driven into other branches ofhusbandry, and in some places wheat became scarce. Add to this therapid increase of the population which created a local demand for allkinds of food, and caused immense quantities of breadstuffs to berequired in places where a few years before there was no market foranything. The rapid and extraordinary growth of Detroit and all theWestern cities, and the formation of new settlements, created a homemarket for Western produce, for the population of cities beingconsumers of the fruits of the land, instead of producers, havealways a wonderful effect on the markets of their localities, and thepioneers in the forest or prairie must for a time depend on the oldersettlements for subsistence. 

From a defective system of agriculture the soil of the old States hasbeen deteriorating for several years. In Massachusetts the hay cropdeclined twelve per cent. From 1840 to 1850, notwithstanding theaddition of 90, 000 acres of mowing lands and the grain cropdepreciated 6000 bushels, although no less than 6000 acres had beenadded to the tillage lands of that State. 

In 1840 the wheat crop of New York was about twelve and a quartermillions of bushels, and only nine millions in 1850, a decrease of 25per cent. , while the Indian corn in the same State increased duringthe same period from about ten to twenty millions of bushels. Theharvest of 1859, found several parts of the country entirely destituteof flour, and the farmers with a fixed and firm determination neveragain to allow themselves to run out of the staff of life. 

The number and capacity of the flouring mills have increasedconsiderably since 1853, so that it is probable that there are atpresent more than three hundred of them at work in the State, and thenumber of hands employed by them cannot be much less than twelvehundred. It is probable that they are now capable of manufacturing1, 25, 000 barrels of flour annually, and this quantity would require5, 625, 000 bushels of wheat. Add to this the large quantity of seedrequired for sowing an increased breadth of land, and the portion ofthe crop kept for domestic use, and the result will be sufficient toexplain the reason why so little wheat has been exported from Michiganthis season. There are about 50, 000 families in this State who dependon agriculture for subsistence; all of these had suffered more or lessinconvenience from failure of the wheat crop, and the high price offlour for the last few years, and it is no wonder that they shouldendeavor to secure a full supply of wheat or flour of the produce ofthe late harvest, and a very large portion of the crop was disposed ofin this way. 

Since the Reciprocity Treaty came into operation, there has beenconsiderable exportation of flour from Detroit to Canada on account ofthe repeated failures of the wheat crop in that country, and thus anew market for Michigan produce has been opened near home. 

Some of these sources of demand are trifling when standing alone, butthe aggregate makes a very large amount. It is considered that abouthalf the produce of the wheat crop still remains in the hands of thefarmers and may be expected to reach the market gradually. 

Michigan wants woolen and cotton, and various other factories toprovide employment for the over-crowded population of her cities andvillages, and to open a market for all her produce. The farmers ofGreat Britain and Ireland could not pay the high rents and taxes whichare imposed on them, were it not for their proximity to the greatmanufacturing cities of England. The cotton factories of Manchester, the woolen factories of Leeds and Huddersfield, the hardware works ofBirmingham and Sheffield, and the potteries of Staffordshire, employhundreds of thousands of men, women, and children, who consume thefruits of the soil, and create a steady demand for the farmer's stockand grain. All these manufactures were fostered by protective lawsuntil they had attained a magnitude and importance which enabled themto protect themselves by the wealth of their proprietors and theexcellence of their products. Large cities always afford a market forfarm produce, and on this account exert a very beneficial influence onagriculture. The population of London is about two and a halfmillions, and they are possessed of so much wealth, and are sofastidious in their requirements, that almost every part of the worldcontributes to supply them with the necessaries or luxuries of life. The rapid growth of the cities of Michigan afford a home market forthe fruits of the soil. A great deal of land in the oldsettlements of this State has been exhausted by a too frequentrepetition of the wheat crop, and is now being employed as pasture forsheep and cattle. After remaining in grass for a few years, this landwill be in excellent condition for producing wheat, especially whenfertilized with that plentiful supply of barn-yard dung which theraising of stock always produces. 

There are some varieties of wheat which are much better suited to theclimate and soil of Michigan than others, as they are in a greatmeasure able to withstand the combined attacks of wheat insects andthe various diseases to which the plant is liable. These are now fastsupplanting the worn out grain, and as every malady has its cure orpreventive, it is probable that the introduction of the best kind ofseeds, the alternation between grass and tillage, and the supply ofrich manure which the raising of stock creates will have a very greattendency to improve the wheat crop of this State. 

It is remarkable fact although the wheat crop has rather declined inthe majority of States, the corn crop has steadily increased in all ofthem. Thus in 1840, the entire corn crop of the United States amountedto 400, 000, 000 of bushels; in 1850 it was nearly 600, 000, 000, ofbushels. The crop of 1855 was between 7 and 800, 000, 000 and that of1858 was fully 800, 000, 000 of bushels. Taking into considerationthe large breath of land planted in 1859 and the damage by frost, wemight with safety set down the crop as amounting to 800, 000, 000bushels. 

Last year our importations from Indiana were large, but since the newcrop came in, that State has been shipping largely toward the Ohioriver, and we get comparatively little. The immense distilleries ofCincinnati consume a very large quantity of corn annually, and Indianais beginning to find a good market in that quarter. The demand forMichigan corn is always active on account of its excellent millingqualities, and on this account it generally sells from wagons as high, or a shade higher than the outside figure for Western corn from store. The corn crop of Illinois has been much injured by the frosts of Juneand July, and on this account the receipts in Chicago up to this datehave been much lighter than usual. The European potato crop has beengreatly damaged by rot, and it is probable that a large export of cornwill take place from this country in order to supply a deficiencyoccasioned by this failure. It is said that several New Yorkcapitalists have gone west and purchased corn and provisions, storingthem up until next spring, anticipating at that time a considerableadvance in price. The generality of farmers have sorted their corncarefully this year and used up the unripe and inferior part forfeeding hogs and cattle: there is a large quantity of very good cornin the country, which will no doubt command a good price in thespring. 

Indian corn is one of the staple productions of Michigan, and can beraised with success in any suitable soil in the lower peninsula. According to the statistics of 1850 this State produced nearly6, 000, 000 of bushels that year. It is probable that the census of thepresent year will show a vast increase in the amount. In 1850 thevalue of this crop in all the States amounted to nearly $300, 000, 000, being about equal to the united values of the wheat, hay, and cottoncrops, and it has perhaps doubled since that date. In fact the valueof the corn crop to Michigan and all the other States can not beestimated, as it is much used for the food of man and all the domesticanimals, and to it the American farmer is indebted for much of hisprosperity, for without it he would not be able to bring his cattleand hogs into the market at the right time and in proper condition. 

Heretofore the amount of pork packed has always been insufficient tomeet the demand, and the deficiency has been supplied by importationsfrom other cities, chiefly from Cincinnati. This season not only hasthere been a considerable increase in the number packed, but themarket opens a great deal duller than last year, when the Canada tradeand the building of the Detroit and Port Huron link of the Grand TrunkRailway induced a fair demand. 

Cincinnati is the greatest provision market on the continent or in theworld. At that place speculation has been quite rife for the past twoor three years, operators obtaining a controlling interest in thestock for the purpose of putting up prices. Last year the plan did notwork well, owing to various causes, one of which was the small numberof works in progress, such as railroads, etc. , the supply of thelaborers upon such works, being the life of the provision trade. Heavy losses were sustained, but it is said that the sufferers were adifferent class from that regularly engaged in the trade. This seasonthe speculative fever has again prevailed. The issue has yet to berevealed. 

Last year nearly 1, 000 head of cattle were slaughtered here, all ofwhich were forwarded to Lake Superior as soon as packed. The price ofmess beef has ranged from $8. 50 to $12. 00. About the first of Julyprices reached their highest point. During the fall the range has beenfrom $8. 50 to $10. 00. 

When the marshy lands, skirting our watercourses in St. Clair, Macomb, Wayne, and Monroe counties, shall have been drained, (which will, nodoubt, be consummated at no distant day, ) a large tract will berendered available for grazing, which will prove equal for thatpurpose to any in the Union. Butter and cheese will then become aleading article in our commerce. 

Potatoes constitute another of our staple products, and, in seasons ofscarcity elsewhere, large purchases are made for shipment, but beinggenerally based on present demand, they can hardly be calledspeculative. The crop of 1857 was rather meagre, and last spring andsummer prices ruled high, going up to $1. 20 for a short time in June. Last year we had an abundant crop, since which, under a limitedexport demand, prices have ruled low. The receipts at this point, from all sources, did not vary greatly from 175, 000 bushels, of which80, 500 bushels were exported, chiefly to Ohio and the upper country. 

It is claimed, that southern Michigan produces more fine fruit thanany other locality of the same extent in the United States, if not onthe globe. At the same time almost every quarter of the State isconstantly improving both in quality and quantity. This fact iscreditable to the sagacity of our agriculturists, for probably innothing else can an equal amount of profit be realized with the sameoutlay. 

Our market is not an important one for live stock, much of the greatershare of the receipts by rail being through freight. Our wholesalemarket is mainly governed by that at the East, buyers for shipment arealways on the look-out, and whenever anything can be purchased thataffords even a moderate margin, it is promptly taken. Extra cattle arealways sought for by our butchers, and command full rates. A spirit ofemulation on the subject of fine stock is pervading the minds of ourfarmers, and, as a consequence, its quality is rapidly improving. Atthe last State Fair, the display of cattle was such as to elicit theadmiration of good judges from abroad. There are so many interestsclaiming the attention of our agriculturists, that the idea ofbecoming famous as to _quantity_, is perhaps precluded; if so, theymay well rest content in the attainment of high rank in point of_quality_. 

The raising of fine sheep is constantly attracting more and moreattention, and from the progress already made by our State, she bidsfair at no distant day to take a position in advance of all her sisterStates. 

The year 1859 opened with rather flattering prospects forwool-growers. The last year's stock was nearly exhausted before thenew clip came into the market. Prices of woolen fabrics wereadvancing, and bid fair to rule high. On the eve of the wool seasonprices declined in the Eastern markets, although there was noparticular reason for this unfavorable turn. It was considered at thetime, that the fall in prices was occasioned by a regular combinationamong buyers to break down the market. The news of the passage of theTicino by the Austrians, and the actual commencement of hostilities inItaly, arrived in this country before the wool was brought into themarket, and this circumstance was seized on as a pretext for loweringthe price of the new clip. Buyers were very industrious in circulatingreports that a general European war was commencing, and, as it wasnot known how affairs would terminate, it would be unsafe for Americanbuyers to make investments in the wool trade, except at prices thatwould leave a large margin for profit. It was fortunate that farmersdid not take the same view of transatlantic complications, for theyrefused to sell except at remunerating prices, a decision which causedsome of the Eastern buyers to retire from the market in disgust. Almost the entire press of Michigan supported the views of the farmerson this occasion, and declared that they could see no reason why thewar in Italy should affect the prices of wool in America, especiallyas all the domestic clip, and a very large quantity of foreign woolwould be manufactured in this country. Michigan produces excellentwool. There are numerous flocks of French, Spanish, and Saxon Merinosin this State, which have been selected or bred with the greatestcare, and the wool produced by them cannot be surpassed in any of theWestern States. There are also flocks of coarse-wooled sheep whichproduce heavy fleeces, and when fattened for the butcher makeexcellent mutton. In 1840 the wool clip of this State was about150, 000 lbs. , in 1850 something over 2, 000, 000 lbs. , and 1859 itamounted to nearly 4, 000, 000 lbs. It will be seen by these figuresthat it has nearly doubled during the last nine years. There are butfew woolen manufactories in Michigan, and the most of the wool clip ofthis State is purchased by Eastern manufacturers. A considerableportion of it goes to Boston and other parts of Massachusetts. We wanta large woolen factory in Detroit, where everything that is necessaryfor its operation can be easily procured. We want more manufactoriesof every kind in Michigan. 

Our city is largely interested in the shipping business, and its tradegives employment to a larger number of side-wheel steamboat lines thanany other three cities on the entire chain of lakes. During the lastseason, the following regular lines of steamers were in successfuloperation:

 Detroit and Cleveland. Detroit and Toledo. Detroit and Sandusky. Detroit and Saginaw. Detroit and New Baltimore. Detroit and Maiden. Detroit, G. Bay and Buffalo. Detroit and Lake Superior. Detroit and Port Huron. Detroit and Chatham. Detroit and Wallaceburg. Detroit and Gibraltar. 

Two of the above routes sustain opposition lines, and to the listmight be added the line of lake steamers to Buffalo, and the line toGoderich, which though not run last year, will probably be insuccessful operation the coming season, making in all sixteen lines. It is significant that the late financial revulsion, which fell withsuch crushing weight upon the shipping interest all over the countrydid not occasion the withdrawal of any of our steamboat lines, saveone. As a still more striking fact, we may state that until lastseason none of the cities located in the vast region between the footof Lake Michigan and the foot of Lake Erie, has for many years pastsupported a single line of steamers that did not make Detroit aterminus. Last year a line was put in successful operation betweenBuffalo and Cleveland, and another between the latter place andToledo, but it ought to be added that both of these were establishedby Detroit enterprise. 

In addition to the line above enumerated, we have daily lines ofpropellers to Ogdensburg, Buffalo, Dunkirk and to the Upper Lakes, which do an immense freighting business. 

We are indebted to Captain J. H. Hall, the public-spirited proprietorof the Detroit shipping-office for following statement of the numberof vessels that passed Detroit in 1859:

_Number of Vessels passing Detroit, 1859. _

 No. Times. 

 Steamers passed up, 194 Propellers, " 492 Barks, " 273 Brigs, " 295 Schooners, " 1, 811 ----- Total number up, 3, 065

 No. Times. Steamers passed down, 195 Propellers, " 503 Barks, " 284 Brigs, " 314 Schooners, " 1, 825 ----- Total number down, 3, 121

Greatest number passed up in one day, eighty-five; greatest numberdown, seventy-three. 

The number of entries and clearances reported at the Custom Houseduring the year is as follows:

 Arrived. Cl'd. Jan. 48 70 Feb. 49 71 March 161 288 April 334 375 May 438 586 June 458 568 July 403 597 Aug. 461 519 Sept. 316 481 Oct. 288 319 Nov. 294 316 Dec. 45 71

During the past year the amount of total losses has been light, notgreater, probably, than the number of vessels built, so that althoughthe classification is slightly changed, there is no material change sofar as concerns the aggregate tonnage. Detroit owns, therefore, _nearly one-sixth of the entire tonnage of the lakes_. 

As a matter of some interest we present a comparative statementshowing the tonnage, steam, and total, of a number of the moreimportant maritime places in the country, taken from the report of theRegister of the Treasury on Commerce and Navigation:

 Steam tonnage. Total tonnage. New York 118, 638 1, 432, 705 New Orleans 70, 072 210, 411 Philadelphia 22, 892 219, 851 Baltimore 18, 821 194, 488 Pittsburg 42, 474 56, 824 Cincinnati 23, 136 26, 541 Chicago 8, 151 67, 001 St. Louis 55, 515 61, 266 Boston 9, 452 448, 896 Buffalo 42, 640 73, 478 Detroit 35, 266 62, 485 Charleston, S. C. 8, 230 60, 196

The following exhibits the number and tonnage of vessels owned in thisdistrict--nearly all of them in this city--on the 31st of December, 1859:

 Number Tons. 95ths Steamers 73 29, 175 02 Propellers 32 6, 090 81 Barks 4 1, 337 08 Brigs 7 1, 877 75 Schooners 131 19, 671 56 Scows and all others 136 4, 322 68 --- ------ -- Total 383 62, 485 05 In 1857 301 52, 991 50 --- ------ -- Increase in two years 82 9, 493 50

The following was the aggregate tonnage of the lakes in December 1858:

 AMERICAN. 69 Side-wheel steamers register tons 44, 562 110 Propellers do. 45, 562 70 Tugs (propellers) do. 6, 880 46 Barks do. 18, 788 79 Brigs do. 22, 558 711 Schooners do. 166, 725 109 Scows do. 11, 848 ---- ------- 1194 Total 316, 923

 CANADIAN. 67 Side-wheel steamers, register tons 25, 966 16 Propellers do. 4, 631 4 Tugs (propellers) do. 388 19 Barks do. 5, 697 16 Brigs do. 2, 988 186 Schooners do. 19, 311 13 Scows do. 609 ---- ------- 321 Total 59, 580

The Michigan Central was the first railroad built in the State, andsince its completion has been known as one of the best managed in theWest. Its beneficial effects to the region of country through which itpasses, is incalculable. On its line, have sprung up a number ofbeautiful towns and villages as if by magic, while many of those thathad an existence prior to its construction have grown into flourishingcities. Ypsilanti, Ann Arbor, Jackson, Marshall, Battle Creek, Albion, Kalamazoo, Niles, and others that might properly be included, all located upon this road, are beautiful places, noted for theirthrift and enterprise as well as for their rapid advances in all thatpertains to well-regulated cities. Their commerce is rapidlyincreasing and the country along the entire route will vie with thattraversed by the great thoroughfares of any of the older States alongthe seaboard. 

The Central was commenced and partially built by the State, but in1844, passed into the possession of the company now owning it, whocompleted it to Chicago. A telegraph line has been in use for someyears past along the entire line of the road, with an office at eachstation, by which means the exact position of each train may be at alltimes known at each and every point. To this admirable system may beattributed in a very great degree the extraordinary exemption of theroad from serious accidents, while its advantages are very great inevery point of view respecting the general management. The easternterminus of the road being at Detroit, it has the full advantages ofthe numerous connections at this point, the Great Western and GrandTrunk Railways, the important steamboat route from Cleveland, thelines of Detroit and Buffalo propellers with their immense freighttraffic, as well as the numerous other steamboat routes of which ourcity is the nucleus. At Chicago it has the advantages of connectionwith all the roads radiating from that flourishing city. Freight isnow taken from Chicago to Portland without breaking bulk but once. Animportant "feeder" is the Joliet Cut-off, by means of which it has adirect connection with St. Louis, via the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Railroad. An important arrangement was consummated last summerwith the latter road, for the direct transmission of freight betweenthis city and St. Louis. Fifty cars have been diverted to this route, under the name of the "Detroit and St. Louis Through Freight Line. "The time between the two cities is thirty-eight hours. The advantagesof this line to shippers are very considerable, and the arrangement isadding, and will continue to add, materially to the commerce of ourcity. 

A commendable progressive spirit has latterly been evinced by themanagers generally, of our railroads, in the transmission of freight, especially live stock and grain. The improvement is a most gratefulone to shippers, who have ordinarily quite enough anxiety and vexationto suffer in the fluctuations of the market and subjection to unlookedfor and onerous charges, without having superadded unreasonableexposure and deterioration of their property while en route to market. In this movement the management of the Central has fully sympathized. Their stock and grain cars have received high commendations from thosefor whose benefit they were intended. The entire equipment of the roadis such as to comport with them; the safety, comfort and convenienceof the public, being constantly kept in view, regardless of the costincurred. 

The three staunch and magnificent steamers belonging to the company, the Plymouth Rock, Western World and Mississippi, owing to the hardtimes have been laid up at their dock since the fall of 1857, to thegreat regret of the public generally, as well as to the detriment ofthe business interest of our city. With the return of a moreprosperous era they will doubtless be again placed in commission. Theline formed by these boats is the most pleasant and expeditious mediumof communication between the East and the West and Southwest, andcannot fail to be well patronized, especially now that the Dayton andMichigan Railroad is completed, which will bring a large amount ofboth freight and passenger traffic by way of Detroit that formerlysought other routes. 

The rolling stock now on the road consists of ninety-eight engines, seventy first class passenger cars, twelve second class cars;twenty-nine baggage cars, and two thousand seven hundred andseventy-eight freight cars, making a total of two thousand eighthundred and eighty-nine cars and all of which were built in thecompany's own shops. 

This road is one hundred and eighty-eight miles long, and has been inoperation throughout its whole extent since November, 1858. It isdeserving of the distinctive appellation of the _Back Bone Road ofMichigan_, having been of incalculable value in developing theresources of the region through which it is located, decidedly one ofthe richest and most important in the West. The principal towns andcities upon its line are Pontiac, Fentonville, St. Johns, Ionia, GrandRapids and Grand Haven. The growth of these places has received agreat impetus since its completion, while numerous villages have alsosprung into being as if by magic at various points along the line. These changes are plainly visible in the improved trade of our city, and the increase from the same cause, must continue to be stronglymarked. Last season over one-fourth of the wheat and wool receivedhere was by this new route, and a number of vessels loaded at thecompany's noble and spacious wharf for European ports direct. 

Within the year past, the company have completed one of the finestrailway wharves in the world. It is 1, 500 feet long by 90 broad, thewest end of which is occupied by the freight house, the dimensions ofwhich are 450 by 132 feet. 

One of the most important events to Detroit and the entire West, thathas transpired for many years, is the completion of this greatthoroughfare. The link from Port Huron to this city was opened totraffic on the 21st of November, since which date the businessescrowding upon it has fully equaled its capacity. It is the Minerva ofrailways, having reached at a single bound a condition of prosperityoutrivaling many of the oldest established roads on the continent. 

It possesses important advantages over any other road both for freightand passenger traffic. Being of uniform gauge, no change of cars willbe necessary from Sarnia to Portland; and being also under themanagement of one corporation, it affords better facilities for theprotection of passengers and the preservation of their baggage thanwhere they are required to pass over lines under the control ofdifferent and perhaps conflicting corporations. Having only one setof officers quartered upon its exchequer, it can afford to do businessat lower proportionate rates, than a number of shorter lines, eachhaving a different set to salary, while the delay and vexation whichnot unfrequently arise from short routes, being compelled to wait uponeach other's movements, will all be avoided, which is certainly nosmall consideration both to passengers and shippers. 

The harbor of Portland is one of the finest and most eligible in theworld, and our immediate connection with a point of such importance isof itself a matter deserving particular mention. Portland district, asappears by the official statement of the tonnage of the United States, made to June, 1857, then owned 145, 242 tons of shipping, being theninth port in the Union in point of tonnage; she is very largelyinterested in the West India trade, her annual imports of molassesexceeding those of any port in the United States. She offers, therefore, to the Western States, peculiar facilities for procuring ata cheap rate the products of the West Indies. The harbor is withoutany bar, and so easy of access that no pilots are required, andstrangers, with the sailing directions given in the American CoastPilot, have brought their ships into it with safety. There are noport charges, harbor dues, or light-house fees, excepting the officialcustom house fees. 

The Grand Trunk Railway is likely to become the avenue through whichan immense tide of immigration will pour into Michigan. It will be afavorite route for emigrants, who will thus avoid the rascallyimpositions of the swindlers and Peter Funks of New York, who havegiven that city an unenviable notoriety throughout the world. It ispredicted that more immigrants will hereafter come by the new routethan by all others put together. There is no valid reason why thisprediction should not prove strictly true. This is therefore a matterlikely to be of vast importance to our State, with a large share ofher territory as yet an unbroken wild, offering tempting inducementsto the hardy settler. 

The completion of this stupendous bond of connection between theEastern and Western States, Canada and Europe, will render marketsavailable which were before difficult of access, and enablefar-distant countries to exchange their products at all seasons. TheGrand Trunk may be called the first section of the PACIFIC RAILROAD, as it already communicates with the Mississippi through Michigan, Illinois and Wisconsin Railroads, and we expect to see the linecompleted from the Mississippi to California. It is not easy to forman estimate of the amount of traffic and intercourse that the 1, 150miles of Grand Trunk Railway will bring to Michigan and theneighboring States. A junction has been already formed with that modelof western lines the Michigan Central by which freight and passengersreach Chicago and the numerous lines which diverge from that greatcommercial city. It is probable that another junction will be madewith the Detroit and Milwaukee Railway by means of a branch from PortHuron to Owasso. In this case there will be a direct line acrossMichigan connecting with the Milwaukee railroads by the ferry acrossthe lake, and penetrating into Iowa, Minnesota, Nebraska, and Oregonby lines which have not yet been traced on the railway maps of theUnited States. 

The ostensible western terminus of this road is at Windsor, oppositeour city, but it is practically as much a Detroit road as any that canbe named. The connections with the other routes centering here is madeby a number of ferry boats of the most staunch and powerfuldescription. The receipts by this route of general merchandiseconsigned to the cities and points westward of us is immense, and itenjoys a large and growing local traffic. 

The main line of the Southern Michigan and Northern Indiana Railroad, which taps a rich and important portion of Michigan, is 461 miles inlength. The business on this line has recently shown a decidedimprovement. 

The D. And T. Road, which is 65 miles in length, was opened to trafficin January 1857. It was built by the "Detroit, Monroe, and ToledoRailroad Company, " who leased it to the Michigan Southern Road. It isnow an important link in the great railway system extending from theEast to the Great Southwest, of which system, Detroit, from itsfavorable position, has become the centre and soul. Since the openingof the Grand Trunk, in November, a large amount of freight has passedthrough, billed for Liverpool direct, a species of freight which muststeadily increase. 

L. P. Knight is agent at Detroit. The office is in the depot buildingof the Detroit and Milwaukee Railway. 

The Dayton and Michigan Railroad was completed last fall, placing uswithin a few hours' ride of the Queen City of the West. This is justlyregarded as a most important route to our city, and will develop newfeatures to some of our leading business interests. The consumer ofour State will have the benefit of lower prices for the products ofKentucky, Tennessee, Louisiana, and the West Indies. The want ofdirect communication between Detroit and New Orleans has long beenfelt. Sugars and molasses can now be laid down here for fifty centsper 100 lbs. , including all charges from New Orleans, via theMississippi and Ohio Rivers, and D. And M. Railway, giving us, in aword, the benefits of as low freights in winter as in summer. With thecost of transportation thus reduced to a merely nominal standard, prices of Southern products will be upon an average no higher herethan in Louisville. It is more than probable, nay, quite certain, thatthe advantages which must ultimately accrue to the State from ourconnection with Cincinnati _per se_, if not so general, will be evenmore marked and important than those to which we have above referred. The prices of provisions will be equalized, giving our lumbermen andminers the benefit of reduced rates throughout most of the year, andwhen speculation is rampant, and the price of pork, the great stapleof our neighbors, reaches an extreme figure--as has been the case fortwo successive seasons, and will be the case again--our farmers willreap the benefit of the movement. The growth of Cincinnati isaltogether without parallel in the world, taking into account thecharacter of that growth--its _quality_, so to speak. All its greatinterests, particularly its manufactures, have kept pace with itsnumerical increase. It is indeed difficult to determine whethermanufactures or commerce is most intimately identified with itsprosperity. The connection with her will give us new and desirablecustomers for some of our surplus products, particularly our choicelumber. 

The entire line of the Flint and Pere Marquette Railroad, as located, is 172-1/2 miles; track laid and completed, 7-3/4 miles; additionallength graded 24-1/2 miles, the ties for which have all beendelivered. 

It is thought that hereafter twenty miles per year will be completedwithout difficulty until the whole is completed. This road will beimportant in developing the resources of a very rich tract of country. 

On the line of Amboy, Lansing, and Grand Traverse Railroad, the entiredistance from Owasso to Lansing, twenty-six miles, is ready for theiron, except three miles. On the division from Lansing to Albion, thirty-six miles, the work of grading and furnishing ties isprogressing, and some one hundred men at work. Between Owasso andSaginaw, thirty-three miles, arrangements are nearly completed tostart the work. The work of grading and preparing for the iron isdone by local subscriptions, of which $3, 000 per mile has beensubscribed and is being paid. 

The existence of copper on the shores of Lake Superior appears to havebeen known to the earliest travelers, but it has been only a few yearssince it has entered largely into Western commerce. But the countryhad long been a favorite resort for fur traders, and as long ago as1809, and perhaps still further back, the Northwest Company (British)owned vessels on Lake Superior. This organization was at that periodthe great trading company of the region in question, the operations ofthe Hudson's Bay Company being confined chiefly to the region furthernorth. At the period of which we speak, the bulk of the trading wasdone by means of birch canoes, some of them large enough to carry twoor three tons. With these, the traders passed up to the Indiansettlements in the fall, with goods, provisions, and trinkets, usuallyreturning to the trading posts during the month of June with the furswhich they had procured in exchange. Mackinac and the Saut weretrading posts at an early day. At a somewhat later period, theNorthwest Company had an agency on an island in Lake Huron, not farfrom the month of Saut river. The formation of the American FurCompany was of more recent date, that company dating its origin duringthe war of 1812, or soon after. 

Prior to the building of the canal, a number of steamers had beentaken over the portage to Lake Superior, but so far as our knowledgeextends, only one or two craft larger than a canoe were ever takenover the rapids, one of which was the schooner Mink. She was built ofred cedar, on Lake Superior, about the year 1816, and was of someforty tons burden. She became the property of Mack & Conant, who hadher brought down the rapids. In making the descent she suffered someinjury by striking against a rock, but, notwithstanding this mishap, she lived long enough to ride out many a stormy sea, running forseveral years in the trade between Buffalo and the City of theStraits. Shubael Conant, Esq. , at this day an honored citizen ofDetroit, was one of the firm that purchased the Mink. 

In the spring of 1845, the fleet on Lake Superior consisted of theschooner White Fish, belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, theSiscowit, belonging to the American Fur Company, and the Algonquin, owned by a Mr. Mendenhall. The same year the schooners Napoleon, Swallow, Uncle Tom, Merchant, Chippewa, Ocean, and Fur Trader, wereall added. In 1845, the propeller Independence, the first steamer thatever floated on Lake Superior, was taken across the portage, and thenext year the Julia Palmer followed her, she being the firstside-wheel steamer. In the winter of 1848-9, the schooner Napoleon wasconverted into a propeller. In 1850, the propeller Manhattan washauled over by the Messrs. Turner, and the Monticello in 1851, by Col. McKnight. The latter was lost the same fall, and Col. McK. Suppliedher place the next winter with the Baltimore. In 1853 or 1854, E. B. Ward took over the Sam Ward, and Col. McKnight took the propellerPeninsula over in the winter of 1852 or 1853. 

In the spring of 1855, the Saut Canal was completed, since which datethe trade with that important region has rapidly grown into commandingimportance. It will be seen by the table below that the importationsof machinery, provisions, supplies, and merchandise, for the past yearamounted to $5, 298, 640, while the exports of copper, iron, fur andfish amount to $3, 071, 069. 

The following are the names of the steam craft now regularly employedin this trade:

 S. B. Illinois. Prop. Mineral Rock. S. B. Lady Elgin. Prop. Montgomery. S. B. North Star. Prop. Northern Light. Prop. Marquette. Prop. Iron City. 

A number of other steam-craft made occasional trips last year, andnext season it is expected that another line will be placed on theroute permanently. The Detroit shipping-office has published the namesof ninety-six sail vessels that have been engaged in the iron tradethe past year. 

Rapid as this trade has increased, it is destined, no doubt, to yetundergo a still greater transformation. The latent resources of theUpper Peninsula are of a character and magnitude that defy allestimates of their future greatness. With regard to the importance ofthe trade to our city, and the steps to be taken to retain it, amplecomments have already appeared in the _Tribune_, both editorially andin the form of communications, to which we can add nothing. 

The aggregate amount of tolls collected in May, July, August andSeptember, was $10, 374. 18, a large increase over the correspondingmonths last year. Including the probable amount for the months notreported, and we have at the lowest not less probably than $16, 000, asthe tolls for 1859. 

Number of passengers: May, 2, 493; June, 1, 764; July, 2, 116; August, 2, 617; September, 1, 538; October, 1, 015. 

It is _now_ almost universally admitted that the State of Michiganpossesses in her soil and timber the material source of immensewealth. While in years past it has been difficult to obtainsatisfactory information concerning the real condition and naturalresources of a large portion of the surface of the Lower Peninsula, the re-survey of portions of the government land, the exploration ofthe country by parties in search of pine, the developments made by theexploring and surveying parties along the lines of the Land GrantRailroads, and the more recent examinations by the differentcommissions for laying out the several State roads under the Actspassed by the last Legislature, have removed every doubt in referenceto the subject. The universal testimony from all the sources abovementioned, seems to be that in all the natural elements of wealth thewhole of the northern part of the Peninsula abounds. 

The pine lands of the State, which are a reliable source of presentand future wealth, are so located and distributed as to bring almostevery portion of the State, sooner or later in connection with thecommerce of the lakes. The pine timber of Michigan is generallyinterspersed with other varieties of timber, such as beech, maple, white-ash, oak, cherry, etc. , and in most cases the soil is suited toagricultural purposes. This is particularly the case on the westernslope of the Peninsula, on the waters of Lake Michigan and along thecentral portion of the State. On the east and near Lake Huron, thepine districts are more extensively covered with pine timber, andgenerally not so desirable for farming purposes. There are goodfarming lands, however, all along the coast of Lake Huron andextending back into the interior. 

A large proportion of the pine lands of the State are in the hands ofthe Canal Company, and individuals who are holding them as aninvestment, and it is no detriment to this great interest, that thewhole State has been thus explored and the choicest of the landssecured. The developments which have thus been made of the quality andextent of the pine districts, have given stability and confidence tothe lumbering interest. And these lands are not held at exorbitantprices, but are sold upon fair and reasonable terms, such as practicalbusiness men and lumber men will not usually object to. 

It is a remarkable fact that almost every stream of water in theState, north of Grand River, penetrates a district of pine lands, andthe mouths of nearly all these streams are already occupied withlumbering establishments of greater or less magnitude. Those lumbercolonies are the pioneers, and generally attract around them otherswho engage in agriculture, and thus almost imperceptibly theagricultural interests of the State are spreading and developing inevery direction. The want of suitable means of access alone preventsthe rapid settlement of large and fertile districts of our State, which are not unknown to the more enterprising and perseveringpioneers, who have led the way through the wilderness, and are nowengaged almost single-handed in their labors, not shrinking from theprivations and sufferings which are sure to surround these firstsettlements in our new districts. 

The Grand Traverse region, with its excellent soil, comparatively mildclimate, and abundance of timber of every description, is attractingmuch attention, and extensive settlements have already commenced inmany localities in that region. The coast of Lake Michigan, from GrandRiver north, for upward of one hundred miles to Manistee River, presents generally a barren, sandy appearance, the sand hills of thatcoast almost invariably shutting out from the view the surroundingcountry. 

North of the Manistee, however, this characteristic of the coastchanges, and the hard timber comes out to the lake and presents a fineregion of country extending from Lake Michigan to Grand Traverse Bayand beyond, embracing the head waters of the Manistee River. Thislarge tract of agricultural land is one of the richest portions of theState, and having throughout its whole extent extensive groves ofexcellent pine timber interspersed, it is one of the most desirableportions of the Peninsula. Grand Traverse Bay, the Manistee and theRiver Aux Becs Scies are the outlets for the pine timber, and affordample means of communication between the interior and the lake forsuch purposes. The proposed State roads will, if built, do much towardthe settlement of this region. 

A natural harbor, which is being improved by private enterprise, isfound at the mouth of the River Aux Becs Scies, and a new settlementand town has been started at this point. This is a natural outlet fora consideration portion of the region just described. 

The lands here, as in other localities in the new portions of theState, are such as must induce a rapid settlement whenever the meansof communication shall be opened. 

The valley of the Muskegon embraces every variety of soil and timber, and is one of the most attractive portions of the Peninsula. The pinelands upon this river are scattered all along the valley in groups ortracts containing several thousand acres each, interspersed with hardtimber and surrounded by fine agricultural lands. 

The Pere Marquette River and White River, large streams emptying intoLake Michigan, pass through a region possessing much the samecharacteristics. This whole region is underlaid with lime rocks, arich soil, well watered with living springs, resembling in manyfeatures the Grand River Valley. Beds of gypsum have been discoveredon the head waters of the Pere Marquette. 

The unsettled counties in the northern portion of the State, thenorthern portion of Montcalm and Gratiot, Isabella, Gladwin, Clare anda portion of Midland, are not inferior to any other portion. There isa magnificent body of pine stretching from the head of Flat River inMontcalm county to the upper waters of the Tettibiwassee, and growingupon a fine soil well adapted to agriculture. 

This embraces a portion of the Saginaw Valley, and covers the highground dividing the waters of Lakes Huron and Michigan. The easternslope of the Peninsula embraces a variety of soil and timber somewhatdifferent in its general features from other portions of the State. The pine lands of this region are near the coast of the lake, and liein large tracts but with good agricultural land adjoining. There arein the Lower Peninsula, in round numbers, about 24, 000, 000 acres ofland. 

Taking Houghton Lake, near the centre of the State, as a point ofview, the general surface may be comprehended as follows: The MuskegonValley to the southwest following the Muskegon River in its course toLake Michigan. The western slope of the Peninsula directly west, embracing the pine and agriculture districts along the valleys ofseveral large streams emptying into Lake Michigan. The large andbeautiful region to the northwest embracing the valley of the Manisteeand the undulating lands around the Grand Traverse Bay. Northward, theregion embraces the head-waters of the Manistee and Au Sauble, withthe large tracts of excellent pine in that locality, and beyond, theagricultural region extending to Little Traverse Bay and the Straightsof Mackinaw. To the northeast, the valley of the Au Sauble, and thepine region of Thunder Bay. To the east, the pine and hard timberextending to Saginaw Bay. To the southeast, the Saginaw Valley; and tothe south, the high lands before described in the central counties. 

That portion of the State south of Saginaw and the Grand River Valleyis so well known that a description here would be unnecessary. 

Thus we have yet undeveloped over half the surface of this Peninsula, embracing, certainly, 12, 000, 000 to 15, 000, 000 of acres, possessingstores of wealth in the timber upon its surface, reserving soil forthe benefit of those, who, as the means of communication are opened, will come in and possess it, and thus introduce industry andprosperity into our waste places. 

We have not the figures at hand, but it is probable that at leastone-tenth of the area north of the Grand River is embraced in the pineregion. The swamp lands granted to the State will probably covernearly double the area of the pine lands proper. The remainder for themost part is covered with a magnificent growth of hard timber suitedto the necessities of our growing population and commerce. 

The statistics herein furnished will give some idea of the importanceand value of the lumber traffic in this States. The trade in pinetimber, lumber, shingles and other varieties of lumber, with thetraffic in staves form one of the most important branches ofmanufacture and commerce in our own State, and this trade alone is nowaccomplishing more for the development and settlement of the countrythan all other causes in operation. 

The lumber manufactories in Detroit and its suburbs are eleven innumber. The following are the names of the proprietors and the amountcut last year by each:

 FT. LUMBER. PCS. LATH. H. A. & S. G. Wight 6, 500, 000 2, 220, 000 Samuel Pills 3, 500, 000 482, 000 -- Moffat (est) 1, 500, 000 H. B. Benson 3, 254, 029 W. Warner & Co. 194, 370 Brooks & Adams 3, 800, 000 Baughman, Hubbard & Co. 3, 378, 080 1, 043, 300 Kibbee, Fox & Co. 3, 000, 000 800, 000 N. Reeve 800, 000 20, 000 Davis & David 2, 000, 000 Copeland 1, 000, 000 ---------- --------- Total 29, 426, 479 4, 745, 300

The aggregate of capital employed by these mills is $1, 440, 000. Theabove amount is no criterion of their capacity. The same mills cut46, 000, 000 feet in 1856, and nearly the same in 1857, and theirprobable capacity is 54, 000, 000. Warner & Co. , run their mill onlyabout five weeks last year, and are now about retiring from business. One of the others sustained a temporary loss of business by fire. Theproduct will in the aggregate be doubled next season. 

The logs sawed in Detroit are procured from St. Clair River, BlackRiver, Mill Creek and, Belle River. As a large share of that sold herehas been on contract, there has been no great fluctuation in themarket at this point. On the first of July the rates by the cargo were$25a$26 for clear and $19a$20 for second clear; on the first ofOctober, $24 for clear, and $18 for second clear. 

Last winter and spring were very unfavorable for lumbering. Owing tothe small quantity of snow, but few logs were got out, and many ofthem being on small streams, owing to the failure of the usual springfreshets, were not sawed, so that upon the whole the mills of theState turned out only about half the amount of their capacity. 

The market opened in the spring with flattering prospects. Buyers froma number of important points in the Eastern States, previouslyderiving their supplies from Maine, visited our State, anxious tosecure contracts for choice lumber, and the opinion prevailed that thedemand would exceed the supply. The prospect encouraged manufacturersto make unwonted exertions in turning out all the stock that could berendered available, which involved increased expense. In some places, as was the case at Saginaw, a very large amount was got out in theearly part of the summer. About the close of June, the marketexperienced a sudden and unlooked-for depression, after which pricestended speedily downward, falling to such a low point before the closeof the season that manufacturers on the west coast generally suspendedtheir shipments. Those on the east coast continued to ship, but theirshipments to a very great extent still remain unsold. We are cognizantof 7, 000, 000 feet held in that way by only four manufacturers. 

The accounts this winter are very favorable, but the idea thatobtains, fixing the amount at a very high figure, is vague anderroneous. The true state of the case is, that manufactures, as ageneral thing, in view of the depressed condition of the trade, havebeen making calculations to do a light business, and got out theirlogs sooner than they expected, and will on the whole do rather morethan they had anticipated, having gone into the woods lighthanded. Themost experienced judges concur in fixing the amount of logs got outthis winter on River St. Clair, at Port Huron and Saginaw Bay, but notincluding the rivers above, at 175, 000, 000 feet. In the Saginaws, itis ascertained that about 100, 000, 000 will be got out. Taking theentire east coast, it is thought the logs this winter would exceedthose of last by fifteen to twenty per cent. 

By Custom House statements of shipments, added to actual receipts atone of the receiving points--Chicago--it will be seen below that for1859 a little over 269, 000, 000 feet is the amount of shipments arrivedat. These figures, taken in connection with the estimates of thosecompetent to judge, render it certain that the actual amount shippedout of the State did not vary materially from 400, 000, 000 feet. Therebeing no penalty involved in the failure of masters of vessels toreport, there is great carelessness in the matter. The Cleveland, Toledo and Sandusky shipments, are at the outside, not more than halfreported. Those reported to Buffalo, Oswego, etc. , are a little nearerthe truth, but they fall considerably below the mark. 

The amount made in 1859, did not vary materially from that shipped. Inthe district embracing the River St. Clair, Port Huron and the LakeShore, 6, 000, 000 feet more were wintered over last year than this. Onthe west coast it was different generally, so that the variation inthe aggregate cannot be much either way. The capacity of the mills inthe pine lumber region is 900, 000, 000 feet, or possibly a little more. 

As regards the amount of shingles made, even dealers are much in thedark. To add 50 per cent. To the Custom House returns would certainlybe within bounds for the eastern coast. This would give 120, 000, 000as the amount. For the west coast, if we take the amount received atChicago, say 165, 000, 000, with an additional twenty-five per cent. Forthat received at Milwaukee, and then estimate that two-thirds of thewhole amount were from the west coast of Michigan, which is doubtlesstrue, we have 137, 500, 000 as the amount shipped by the coast, making267, 500, 000 for the whole State. 

The improved demand for staves has greatly stimulated the production, and in localities where the production of pine lumber is decreasing, that of staves is taking its place. At Saginaw 2, 500, 000 were got outlast year, and this year there will be full as much, or more. Thegreatest activity prevails, and dressing by machinery has beenstarted. At Lakeport, Burchville, Lexington, Port Sanilac, Forester, Point aux Barque, and Foresterville, 850, 000 were got out last year;from Port Huron and St. Clair 750, 000. The amount turned out in thewhole State could not have been short of 20, 000, 000. 

An immense amount of lath were turned out. A mill that can turn outthree millions of lumber, generally makes one million of lath. On thisbasis about 133, 000, 000 must have been turned out. The supplygenerally exceeds the demand. 

The lumber on the east coast is worth at the mills $9 per M. ; that onthe west coast $7. At the average of $8, the amount made last yearwould be worth $3, 200, 000. The value of shingles at $2 per M. , was$515, 000, and the lath at $1 per M. , are worth $133, 000. 

We are enabled to present a nearly complete list of names of owners, with the amount of capital respectively, which will be of someinterest, both at home and abroad. So far as the east coast isconcerned, the figures are in the main entirely reliable, being uponthe authority of one of the best men in the State who knows whereof headvises. Those for the west coast, thought not perhaps so strictlycorrect as the others, will as a general thing be found within bounds. We hope the statistics will prove an incentive to lumbermen to be moreparticular hereafter in furnishing information:

 BLACK RIVER. 

 Name. Capital. J. & J. Bayard $15, 000 Sweetser & Bayard 7, 000 Comstock mill 7, 000 Davis' mill 8, 000 R. Wadham's mills 10, 000

 MILL CREEK. Bunce's mill 4, 000 L. Brockway 2 mills 5, 000 John H. Westbrook 4, 000

 PORT HURON. G. S. Lester 24, 000 Haynes & Baird 24, 000 Howard & Bachelor 15, 000 Fish, two mills 35, 000 Welles 24, 000 Avery 75, 000 Bunce 24, 000 Hibbard 40, 000 Black River mill 35, 000

 LOCKPORT. Farrand 10, 000

 BURCHVILLE. Woods, two mills 30, 000 John S. Minor 7, 000

 LEXINGTON. Hubbard 8, 000 Jenks & Co. 20, 000 Stevens & Davis 10, 000 Hitchcock & Co. 30, 000

 BARK SHANTY. Oldfield 10, 000

 FORESTER. Emely 50, 000

 GIBRALTAR. Colin Campbell 10, 000

 ALGONAC. Daniels & Ripley 15, 000 Smith 24, 000

 NEWPORT. E. B. Ward 20, 000 Rust 10, 000 B. S. Horton 10, 000

 ST. CLAIR. Moore & Scott 20, 000 W. Truesdale 2 mills 60, 000 E. Smith 15, 000 Smith & Chamberlin 5, 000 Oaks & Holland, two mills 40, 000 St. Clair 30, 000

 FORESTVILLE E. B. Ward 50, 000 Breckinridge 2, 000

 VICKSBURG. Williams & Mills, three mills 55, 000

 CHEBOYGAN. Three mills 100, 000

 CHERRY CREEK. Peninsular Bank 15, 000

 HURON COUNTY. Luddington 12, 000 Hubbard & Co. 50, 000 Donahue 30, 000 Armstrong & Co. 10, 000 Smith & Co. 50, 000 W. R. Stafford 15, 000 Pt Austin Company 100, 000 Crawford & Co. 10, 000

 BAY CITY. Clark, Ballou & Co. 35, 000 Moore & Smith 30, 000 Geo. Lord & Co. 24, 000 Saml. Pitts 30, 000 Beeson & Wheeler 24, 000 Beebe & Atwood 10, 000 Henry Doty 35, 000 McEwing & Brother 30, 000 Bangor mills 35, 000 Drake mills 24, 000 Henry Raymond 30, 000 Catlin & Jennison 10, 000 Miller & Butterfield 14, 000 Frost & Bradley 35, 000

 PORTSMOUTH. J. J. McCormick 10, 000 Portsmouth mill 15, 000 Budd's mill 14, 000 Partridge mill 24, 000 H D Braddack & Co. 14, 000 Watson & Southard 14, 000

 ZILWAUKEE. J. J. Westervelt 35, 000

 CARROLLTON. Name Unknown 35, 000

 EAST SAGINAW. Garrison & Co. 24, 000 I. Hill 20, 000 Holland 10, 000 Copeland & Co. 10, 000 Cushing & Co. 36, 000 L. B. Curtis 24, 000 Wm. Gallagher 14, 000 Atwater mill 30, 000

 SAGINAW CITY. V. A. Payne 30, 000 Curtis & King 30, 000 New mill 20, 000 G D Williams & Son 20, 000 D. Rust & Brother 50, 000

 TITTIBIWASSEE, PINE RIVER AND SWAN CREEK. Eight mills 65, 000

 CASS, BAD, AND SHIAWASSEE RIVERS. Seven mills 50, 000

 LAPEER. D. Farrer 8, 000 W. Williams 15, 000 Crofoot & Baldwin 15, 000 Manwaring & Co. 21, 000 Wm. Peters 14, 000 Thorp's mill 14, 000 H. D. Torner 8, 000 Lawrence & M'Arthur 7, 000 Wm. Peter 30, 000 Sixteen small mills 85, 000 N. H. Hart 21, 000 Rogers & Jenness 24, 000 Smith & Jenness 15, 000 Smith 14, 000 J. B. Wilson 14, 000 James Farrell 10, 000 White & Peter 10, 000 W. H. Crapo 60, 000 H. L. Hemingway 6, 000

 PINE RUN. McFarren 20, 000

 MONTROSE. Name unknown 30, 000

 ALPENA AND VICINITY. G. N. Fletcher & Co. 35, 000 Lockwood & Miner 25, 000 Harris & Co. 35, 000 Smith & Chamberlain 15, 000 D. D. Oliver 5, 000 Whitmore & Co. 25, 000

 SANILAC COUNTY. J. L. Woods & Co. 5, 000 Mason & Luce 17, 500 Stevenson & Davis 20, 000

 AU SAUBLE HIGHLANDS. Harris's mill 24, 000

 RIFLE RIVER, SAGANIN, COQUALIN, AND SAND BEACH. Six mills 85, 000

 TUSCOLA COUNTY. A. Watson 10, 000 W. A. Hart 10, 000 Perry 5, 000 Others 30, 000 Edmunds & North 14, 000 Richardson & Bro. 14, 000 Holmes 5, 000

 FLINT AND VICINITY. Eleven mills 715, 000

There are also others on the east slope of the lower peninsula, representing a capital of say--$120, 000. 

Beyond the lower peninsula, there are some very heavy manufactories, particularly around Green Bay, (Michigan) generally estimated at$1, 000, 000, but which it would be safe to put at--$750, 000. 

Total capital, including Detroit, -- $5, 360, 000

 WESTERN SLOPE--OTTAWA COUNTY. Name. Capital. Ferry & Co. 50, 000 W. M. Ferry, Jr. 50, 000 Joseph Weld & Co. 30, 000 T. W. White & Co. 50, 000 Becker & Spoons 40, 000 Richard Roberts 24, 000 Jno. Haire 24, 000 E. Jewitt 15, 000 Plugger & Nyn 24, 000 Howard & Co. 14, 000 Ryerson & Morris, 2 mills 65, 000 Chapin, Marsh & Foss 50, 000 Smith, Forbes & Co. 35, 000 Trowbridge, Way & Son 65, 000 J. B. Bailey 14, 000 Porter & Slyfield 14, 000 C. Davies & Co. 50, 000 Durkee, Truesdell & Co. 40, 000 George Ruddmain 40, 000 Lewis & Davis 24, 000 Eldridge & Co. 24, 000 Carleton & Co. 24, 000 Ferry & Son 40, 000 Lind & Slater 50, 000 Young, Savedge & Co. 30, 000 Amos Norton 40, 000 Benj. Smith 30, 000 Rhodes, Cloyn & Co. 24, 000 Hatch & Merritt 15, 000 C. Hart 10, 000 L. G. Mason & Co. 35, 000 Beidler & Co. 40, 000 Mears & Co. 24, 000 Hill & Co. 24, 000 Colgrove & Co. 18, 000 Wm. Thompson 14, 000 Harris & Co. 8, 000 Jno. Ford 8, 000 Denton & Co. 14, 000 Carleton & Co. 10, 000 Jos. Dalton & Bro. 10, 000 S. Lawrence 12, 000 Edward Dalton 8, 000 E. W. Merrill & Co. 14, 000 Reed & Co. 10, 000 Brown & Grist 8, 000

 KENT COUNTY. Jennison & Bro. 14, 000 W. T. Powers 2, 000 Seymour 24, 000 Gooch & Webber 5, 000 A. McFarland 4, 000 Thos. Myers 21, 000 George Funck 8, 000 S. Lapham 5, 000 A. House 5, 000 Farrell & Sons 10, 000 J. C. Clements 15, 000 T. Spencer 8, 000 Dewey & Co. 14, 000 Reed & Plum 5, 000 N. H. Withey 5, 000 Knickerbuck 4, 000 Robert Konkle 10, 000 A. Roberts & Son 25, 000 White, Worden & Co. 25, 000 C. C. Comstock 9, 500 D. Porter 5, 000 Chase, Harris & Co. 8, 000 C. W. Taylor 6, 000 D. Caswell 12, 000 Hubbard, Hitchcock & Co. 16, 000

 NEWAYGO COUNTY. Newaygo Company 80, 000 Name unknown 24, 000 J. M. Wood, 2 mills 25, 000 James Botchford 10, 000 R. P. Mitchell 5, 000 Weaver 3, 000 Amos Bigelow, 4, 000

 STONY CREEK, OCEANA COUNTY. Campbell, Wheeler & Co. 25, 000

 PERE MARQUETTE, BLACK CREEK AND BIG SAUBLE. C. Mears & Co. , 3 mills 95, 000

 SPRING CREEK. Hopkins & Co. 24, 000

 MANISTEE. Coles 80, 000 McVicker &Ingleman 24, 000 One near Manistee 24, 000 John C. Haines 55, 000 John Stranch 40, 000

 GRAND TRAVERSE. Hanna, Lay & Co. 32, 000 A. S. Wadsworth 15, 000

 WHITE RIVER. Amos Rathbone 24, 000

 MECOSTA. Leonard, Ives, & Co. 20, 000

 MONTCALM COUNTY. Bruce 10, 000 Slaght 14, 000 E. Gregory & Co. 20, 000

 LELANAW COUNTY. Averill & Son 2, 000

 BEC SCIE'S RIVER. R. Gardner 15, 000 Chamberlin & Co. 20, 000 Name unknown 2, 000 Harris & Co. 10, 000

 IONIA COUNTY. Estimated Aggregate 100, 000 All others, on West Slope, estimated 350, 000 Capital Western Slope 2, 669, 500 Total Capital of State $8, 029, 500

An intelligent gentleman who, at our instance, visited all theestablishments around Saginaw, and procured statistics, reports theamount of lumber manufactured as follows:

 Place. No. Of Mills. Feet. Bay City 11 20, 000, 000 Portsmouth 4 5, 000, 000 Zilwaukee 1 3, 000, 000 Carrollton 1 2, 800, 000 East Saginaw 8 19, 750, 000 Saginaw City 4 14, 000, 000 Bad River 2 4, 500, 000 Rafted Lumber 4, 000, 000 ---------- Total 73, 050, 000 Valuation, at $8. 50 per M. $620, 925

Of the above lumber, 63, 000, 000 has been shipped; the rest is now onthe docks. 

 Shingles manufactured 25, 000, 000 at $2. 50 $62, 500 Lath " 5, 000, 000 at 1. 00 5, 000 Oak Staves and shipped 2, 000, 000 at 30. 00 60, 000 Add Lumber 620, 925 -------- Total $748, 425

The supply of pine in some few localities is becoming exhausted, andsome few mills have ceased operating. This is the case at Lexington, but the machinery and capital have been taken elsewhere. At thepresent ratio of consumption, the supply of pine must rapidly becomediminished, but profitable employment will then be found in themanufacture of hemlock and hard-wood. Some little has already beendone in the way of turning out hemlock. The manufacture of hard-woodlumber is increasing very rapidly. 

The copper interest of Michigan was first brought into public noticeby the enormous speculations and the mad fever of 1845. The large spurof country which projects far out into the lake, having its baseresting on a line drawn across from L'Anse Bay to Ontonagon, and thePorcupine Mountains for its spine, became the El Dorado of allcopperdom of that day. In this year the first active operations werecommenced at the Cliff Mine, just back of Eagle River harbor. Threeyears later, in 1848, work was undertaken at the Minnesota, somefifteen miles back from the lake at Ontonagon. 

The history of the copper mines on Lake Superior shows that even thebest mines disappointed the owners in the beginning. We give the factsrelative to the three mines at present in the Lake Superior region toillustrate this. The Cliff Mine was discovered in 1845, and workedthree years without much sign of success; it changed hands at the verymoment when the vein was opened which proved afterward to be soexceedingly rich in copper and silver, producing now on an average1, 500 tons of stamp, barrel, and mass copper per annum. 

The Minnesota Mine was discovered in 1848, and for the first threeyears gave no very encouraging results. The first large mass of nativecopper of about seven tons was found in a pit made by an ancient race. After that discovery much money was spent before any other furtherindications of copper were found. This mine yields now about 2, 000tons of copper per annum, and declared, for the year 1858, a netdividend of $300, 000. The dividends paid since 1852 amount to upwardof $1, 500, 000 on a paid-up capital of $66, 000. 

The same has been experienced at the Pewabic Mine. That mine commencedoperations in the year 1855, with an expenditure of $26, 357, whichproduced $1, 080 worth of copper; the second year it expended $40, 820, and produced $31, 492 of copper; in 1857 $24, 484 of expenses produced$44, 058 worth of copper; 1858, the amount expended was $109, 152, andthe receipts for copper $76, 538; the total expense amounts to$235, 816, and the total receipts for copper to $153, 168, leaving anexcess of expenses amounting to $82, 648, which is, however, amplycovered by the extensive works established above and below ground atthe mine. 

The Pewabic will undoubtedly take its place among the dividend-payingmines of the present year. 

It is scarcely ten years that mining has been properly commenced inthat remote region. At that time it was difficult, on account of therapids of St. Mary's River, to approach it by water with large craft. Being more than a thousand miles distant from the centre of the Union, destitute of all the requirements for the development of mines; everytool, every part of machinery, every mouthful of provisions had to behauled over the rapids, boated along the shores for hundreds of milesto the copper region, and there often carried on the back of man andbeast to the place where copper was believed to exist. Every stroke ofthe pick cost tenfold more than in populated districts; every disasterdelayed the operations for weeks and months. 

The opening of the Saut Canal has changed all this and added awonderful impetus to the business, the mining interests, and thedevelopment of the Lake Superior country. Nearly one hundred differentvessels, steam and sail, have been engaged the past season in itstrade, and the number of these is destined largely to increase yearby year, an indication of the growth of business and the opening up ofthe country. For the growth in the copper interest we have only torefer to the shipments from that region year by year. These, in gross, are as follows:

 1853 2, 535 tons. 1854 3, 500 " 1855 4, 544 " 1856 5, 357 " 1857 6, 094 " 1658 6, 025 " 1859 6, 245 "

The same facts of development would hold generally true, with regardto the other industrial interests of that vast country. 

It remains yet almost wholly "a waste, howling wilderness. " AtMarquette, Portage Lake, Copper Harbor, Eagle River, Eagle Harbor, andOntonagon, and the mines adjacent, are the only places where theprimeval forests have given place to the enterprise of man, and thesein comparison with the whole extent of territory embraced in thisregion, are but mere insignificant patches. What this country maybecome years hence, it would defy all speculations now to predict, butthere seems no reason to doubt that it will exceed the most sanguineexpectations. 

The copper region is divided into three districts, viz. , theOntonagon, the most northern, the Keweenaw Point, the most eastern, and the Portage Lake, lying mostly below and partially between therange of the two. In the first are situated the Minnesota, theRockland, the National, and a multitude of other mines of lesser note, profit, or promise. In the Cliff, the Copper Falls, and others. In thelast are the Pewabic, Quincy, Isle Royale, Portage, Franklin, andnumerous others. Each district has some peculiarities of product, thefirst developing the masses, while the latter are more prolific invein-rock, the copper being scattered throughout the rock. 

There have been since 1845 no less than 116 copper-mining companiesorganized under the general law of our State. The amount of capitalinvested and now in use, or which has been paid out in explorationsand improvements, and lost, is estimated by good judges at $6, 000, 000. The nominal amount of capital stock invested in all the companieswhich have charters would reach an indefinite number of millions. Asan offset to this, it may be stated that the Cliff and Minnesota mineshave returned over $2, 000, 000 in dividends from the beginning oftheir operations, and the value of these two mines will more thancover the whole amount spent in mining, and for all the extravagantundertakings which have been entered upon and abandoned. While successhas been the exception and failure the rule in copper speculations, yet it must be admitted that these exceptions are remarkably temptingones. Doubtless there is immense wealth still to be developed in theseenterprises, and this element of wealth in the Lake Superior region isyet to assume a magnitude now unthought of. 

The copper is smelted mainly in this city, Cleveland, and Boston, theworks in this city being the largest. There is one establishment atPittsburg which does most of the smelting for the Cliff Mine, webelieve; one at Bergen, N. Y. , and one at New Haven, Conn. There aretwo at Baltimore, but they are engaged on South American Mineral. TheBruce Mines on the Canada side of Lake Huron have recently putsmelting works in operation on their location. Prior to this themineral was barreled up and shipped to London, being taken over asballast, in packet ships, at low rates. 

The amount of copper smelted in this city we can only judge by theamount landed here, but this will afford a pretty accurate estimate. The number of tons landed here, in 1859, was 3, 088. The copper yieldof Lake Superior will produce between 60 and 70 per cent, of ingotcopper, which is remarkably pure. The net product of the mines for1859, is worth in the markets of the world nearly or quite $2, 000, 000. This large total shows the capabilities of this region and affords ussome basis of calculation as to the value and probable extent offuture development. 

Beside the amount already noticed as landed here there were 1, 268 tonsbrought to this city from the Bruce Mines, and sent on to London. Themineral of this location is of a different quality from that of LakeSuperior and not near so productive of pure copper. The price of ingotcopper in New York the past season has arranged from 20-1/2 to 23-1/2cents per pound, averaging full 22-1/2 cents. 

There are indications that Michigan is slowly but surely taking therank to which she is entitled in the manufacture as well as productionof iron. The first shipment of pig iron of any consequence was made bythe Pioneer Company in the fall of 1858. Dr. Russell, of this city, isturning out large quantities. His works went into operation about twoyears and a half ago, but were burned after running sixty days. Theywere immediately rebuilt by the enterprising proprietor. 

The Lake Superior iron has been proclaimed the best in the world, aproposition that none can successfully refute. Its qualities arebecoming known in quarters where it would naturally be expected itssuperiority would be admitted reluctantly, if at all. It is now sentto New York and Ohio, and even to Pennsylvania--an agency for its salehaving been established in Pittsburg. For gearing, shafting, cranks, flanges, and, we ought by all means, to add, car-wheels, no othershould be used, provided it can be obtained. 

A large amount of capital is invested in the iron interest inMichigan, as the following figures prove:

 Pioneer $150, 000 Jackson 300, 000 Collins 150, 000 Cleveland 300, 000 Lake Superior and Iron Mountain R. R. Co. 700, 000 Northern Michigan Iron Company 110, 000 Wyandotte Rolling Mills 236, 000 Eureka Iron Company 117, 000 Dr. G. B. Russell's 60, 000 Ford & Philbrick's Steam Forge 25, 000 --------- 2, 148, 000

Marquette is the only point on Lake Superior where the iron oredeposits have been worked. There are deposits of iron in the mountainsback of L'Anse, but this wonderful region leaves nothing more to bedesired for the present. At a distance of eighteen miles from thelake, are to be found iron mountains named the Sharon, Burt, LakeSuperior, Cleveland, Collins, and Barlow, while eight miles furtherback lie the Ely and St. Clair mountains. Three of these mountains areat present worked, the Sharon, the Cleveland, and the Lake Superior, and contain enough ore to supply the world for generations to come. The mountains farther back embrace tracts of hundreds of acres risingto a height of from four to six hundred feet, which, there is everyreason to believe, from the explorations made, are solid iron ore. Theextent of the contents of these mountains is perfectly fabulous, infact, so enormous as almost to baffle computation. The ore, too isremarkably rich, yielding about seventy per cent. Of pure metal. Thereare now in operation at Marquette three Iron Mining Companies, and twoblast furnaces for making charcoal pig iron, the Pioneer and Meigs. The Pioneer has two stacks and a capacity of twenty tons of pig ironper day; the Meigs one stack, capable of turning out about eleventons. The Northern Iron Company is building a large bituminous coalfurnace at the mouth of the Chocolate River, three miles south ofMarquette, which will be in operation early in the summer. 

Each of the mining companies, the Jackson, Cleveland and LakeSuperior, have docks at the harbor for shipment, extending out intothe spacious and beautiful bay which lies in front of Marquette to asufficient length to enable vessels of the largest dimension to lie bytheir side and to be loaded directly from the cars, which are run overthe vessels and dumped into chutes, which are made to empty directlyinto the holds. The process of loading is therefore very expeditiousand easy. 

The amount of shipments of ore for 1859, from Marquette to the portsbelow, reaches 75, 000 gross tons in round numbers, and the shipmentsof pig iron, 6, 000 gross tons more. To this must be added the amountat Marquette when navigation closed, the amount at the mines ready tobe brought down, and the amount used on the spot. This will give atotal product of the iron mines of Michigan for the past year ofbetween _ninety and one hundred thousand tons_. These mining companiessimply mine and ship the ore and sell it. Their profit ranges betweenseventy-five cents and one dollar per ton. 

The quality of the iron of Lake Superior is conceded by all to be thebest in the world, as the analysis of Prof. Johnson, which wereproduce, shows. The table shows the relative strength per squareinch in pounds. 

 Salisbury, Conn. , iron 58, 009 Swedish (best) 58, 184 English cable 59, 105 Centre county, Pa. 59, 400 Essex county, N. Y. , 59, 962 Lancaster county, Pa. 58, 661 Russia (best) 76, 069 Common English and American 30, 000 Lake Superior 89, 582

The manufacture of pig iron at Marquette will probably be carried oneven more extensively as the attention of capitalists is directed toit. The following may be considered a fair statement of the cost ofproducing one ton of pig iron at the Pioneer Iron Co. 's works:

 1-1/2 tons iron ore, at $1. 50 per ton $2 50 125 bushels charcoal at 7 cents per bushel 8 75 Fluxing 50 Labor 2 50 Incidental expenses 1 00 ------ Cost at the works 15 00 Freight on R. R. And dockage 1 37 ------ Cost on board vessel $16 36

The quantity of wood required for charcoal for both furnaces, isimmense. The pioneer furnace requires 2, 500 bushels of coal intwenty-four hours; and in blast as they are, day and night, for sixmonths, and at a yield of forty bushels of coal to a cord of wood, itwould require 15, 000 cords of wood to keep them going. The company hashad 120, 000 cords chopped this season. This vast consumption of woodwill soon cause the country to be completely stripped of its timber. Coal will then come into use. The business of manufacturing pig ironmay be extended indefinitely, as the material is without limit, andthe demand, thus far, leaving nothing on hand. 

These facts exhibit the untold wealth of Michigan in iron alone, andpoint with certainty to an extent of business that will add millionsto our invested capital, dot our State with iron manufactories of allkinds, and furnish regular employment to tens of thousands of ourcitizens, while our raw material and our wares shall be found in allthe principal markets of the world. 

The superior fish, found in such profusion in our noble lakes andrivers, while they afford a highly-prized luxury for immediateconsumption, from one of our leading articles of export, and are veryjustly regarded as constituting one of our greatest interests. 

It is estimated by men of intelligence that the value of our yearlycatch of fish is greater than that of all taken in fresh waters in thethirty-two remaining States of the Union. This may at first blush seemlike a broad assertion, but it is no doubt strictly within bounds. Ifthe claim be not too much of the nature of a truism, we may add thatso far as quality is concerned the superiority of our finny tribes iseven more strongly marked than in regard to quantity. In the sluggishstreams that abound in "ten degrees of more effulgent clime, " the fishpartake of the slimy properties of their native element; it is only inthe limpid waters of the North that they are found of flavor sounexceptionable as to please an epicurean taste, or exalt them to thedignity of a staple of commerce. Fish possess peculiar qualities tocommend them as an article of food, independent of the arbitrarypreference of the epicure. They are universally esteemed as awholesome and nutritious diet. In that pleasant work, Irving's"Astoria, " a tribe of Indians are described who subsisted entirely onfish, whose rotund appearance contrasted strongly with the physique oftheir brethren of the forest. The profusion with which the finnytribes propagate their species is a peculiarity said to be imparted tothose who partake freely and regularly of them for food, a suppositionwhich would seem to be strongly supported by facts. Fishermen areproverbial for the number of their descendants. One of the tribe whodries his nets in Sarnia, is the happy father of nineteen children, and we can cite numerous proofs almost equally striking in support ofthis theory. 

The fisheries have always been a leading subject in the governmentpolicy of seaboard nations. They are a prime source of revenue, andhave been the cause of numerous wars. The serious controversy betweenthe United States and Great Britain concerning the Newfoundlandfisheries, is still fresh in the memory of our readers. Recently theearnest attention of the French government has been directed topropositions for the artificial propagation of fish, as a means ofaffording good and cheap food to the people at a merely nominal cost. The gradual diminution of the species, as well as the ultimateextinction of the large birds and quadrupeds, is everywhere acondition of advanced civilization and the increase and spread of anindustrial population. To provide a remedy for the evil, the scienceof pisciculture has latterly attracted no small degree of attention, and, at this time, gentlemen prominently identified with our fishinginterest have it in contemplation to stock lakes in the interior ofMichigan with a view to the prosecution of the science. 

Most of the fish packed on Lake Huron, and rivers St. Clair andDetroit, find their way into the Ohio market. The trade with thatState has rapidly increased, but in its early stages it had somedifficulties to contend with, to one of which we will briefly allude. Some twelve or fourteen years ago, a large quantity of fish, not lessthan 8, 000 to 10, 000 barrels, which had been caught in Lake Superior, were in the possession of a single dealer, who had them stored in thelarge warehouse recently torn down at the Detroit and MilwaukeeRailway depot. He had opportunities to dispose of them at $8 perbarrel, but refused to sell them for less than $10, and the result wasthat they were kept so long that many of them spoiled. They werecomplained of as a nuisance, and 1, 500 barrels were turned out intothe river at one time. Part of the lot was, however, sent to Ohio, andthe effect was, for a time, extremely prejudicial to our trade, requiring a great deal of explanation before the Cincinnati dealerscould be again induced to stand in the position of customers. But whenconfidence once more became fairly restored, the circumstance seemedto have the effect to precipitate the trade between the two cities. Atleast it grew rapidly from that day, our neighbors purchasing freelyof our staple articles and sending us sugar and molasses in return. Thus, as in Samson's time, honey was gathered from the carcass of thedead lion. Ohio has become a very large consumer of our fish, and herinfluence is being extended rapidly into Indiana. 

The habits of fish are as interesting as anything in the animaleconomy, constituting a beautiful study for the lover of nature; butthis branch does not come within the scope of our article, and we mustcontent ourselves with a brief description of the principal varieties, particularly such as are held in highest repute for packing, with suchstatistics as we have been able to procure. 

Whitefish are more highly prized than any other kind found in ourwaters, being decidedly the most delicious in a fresh state, and whenpacked command a higher price than any other by $1 per bbl. They arefound in the Straits and all the Lakes. They spawn in the fall, in theStraits, and in shoals and on reefs about the Lakes. They are caughtin seines, gill nets, trap nets, and with spears; never with hooks. Those found in Detroit river come up from Lake Erie regularly in thefall to deposit their spawn. They were found in our lakes and riversin vast quantities when the white men first visited their shores. Theyconstituted, with other kinds, the principal food of the white andIndian voyagers as they coasted around the lakes, and were invaluableto the first settlers of the country, who, perhaps in some cases, butfor the assistance they afforded, would have been compelled torelinquish their settlements. They could catch a supply at any time, and they then had an unfailing resort when their crops failed. Whitefish were a great favorite with the Indians. They would give manytimes their weight in trout or any other species in exchange for them. It is said that a person can subsist longer upon them than upon anyother kind. 

Their ordinary weight is from 3 to 5 lbs, length 15 inches, thoughsome have been caught weighing not less than 18 lbs. They are abeautiful fish, and when first taken out of the water and struggle andflounder in the sun, they exhibit all the colors of the rainbow, butthey soon expire, and when dead they are of a delicate white color. The trout, pike, and muscalonge devour them without mercy. Some ofthese voracious kinds have been caught with the remains of sixwhite-fish in them. 

The Detroit River white-fish are more juicy and better flavored thanthose caught in the upper lakes, probably from the fact that they feedon more delicate food, but those found in Lake Superior surpass allothers in size. They were once so numerous that eight thousand weretaken at a single haul. At present a haul of one or two thousand isthought a very good one. In all the rivers they are growing scarcevery gradually, but surely. The ratio of decrease cannot be arrived atwith any degree of precision. A few years ago they were mostly takenwith gill nets, and when they fell of in one place, a correspondingincrease would be found in another. Now they are taken with trap netsalong the shore. The trap nets are a decided advantage over gill nets. They allow the fish to be kept alive, and they are taken out atleisure; they are therefore of better quality. 

Pickerel are also held in high esteem. They are good either fresh, orsalted and dried, and for packing, rank next in value to white, although held nominally at the same price as trout when packed. Theygenerally run up the rivers and lakes in the spring to spawn, wherethey are caught in considerable numbers. Average weight, 2 lbs; large, 20 lbs; common length, 15 inches. 

Lake or Mackinaw trout are as voracious as pike. They are chieflycaught on Lake Huron with gill nets and hooks. Saginaw Bay appears tobe a favorite resort with them. Some winters large quantities arecaught in the Bay through the ice, with a decoy fish and spear. Theyspawn in the fall, generally in the bays and inlets. Average weight 5lbs; large 75 lbs. 

Siscowits are mostly found in Lake Superior, and are preferred by someto any other kind. They are of the trout family, and for fat areunequaled; they are mostly taken in gill nets. They spawn in the fall, and are very superior for packing. They are also of some value fortheir oil. Common weight 4 pounds, length 16 inches. 

Large herrings are very good fish, found only in the straits and largelakes. They spawn in the fall; but few are caught. Average weight1-3/4 pounds; common length 10 inches. 

In addition to the above the muskelonge--a large and deliciousvariety--black and white bass, rock bass, perch, sturgeon, and atleast twenty other kinds, abound in our waters; a minute descriptionof which we are compelled to forego. Whitefish are taken both springand fall, chiefly the latter; spring is the season for pickerel; troutare taken at all seasons. 

Something over a year since some excitement was occasioned by a modeof fishing adopted by a party of fishermen on Detroit river, whostationed nets over a mile and a half in extent across the mouth ofthe stream, a proceeding that was not only calculated to destroy thevalue of the seine fisheries above, but which would ultimately havedriven the fish out of the river altogether. A formidable oppositionwas of course arrayed against this unusual and unwarrantableproceeding, and the party found it expedient to desist, but theLegislature, which met shortly after, failed to pass an inhibitivemeasure. This action, or rather want of action, would have beenconsidered extraordinary in a State less favored by nature. 

We have fortunately been able to procure estimates of the amount ofthe catch at all the various fisheries, together with other leadingstatistics; and with the view of imparting to the subject a moregeneral interest, we include two or three points beyond the limits ofthe State. The estimates are furnished by gentlemen of intelligenceand experience, and may be relied on as substantially correct:

 Sandusky fisheries, catch mostly sold fresh:

 Whitefish, valuation $50, 000 Pickerel, bass, etc 40, 000 Value of seines and fixtures 16, 000 Paid for wages 37, 000

Maumee River, pickerel, white bass, etc. , etc. , mostly sold fresh:

 Valuation $50, 000 Seines and fixtures $15, 000 Paid for wages 12, 000

Maumee Bay and Monroe County, Michigan, white fish and pickerel:

 Valuation $20, 000 Pounds, seines, and fixtures 9, 000 Paid for wages 10, 000

Detroit River, nearly all white:

 Valuation $75, 000 Seines, fishing grounds, and fixtures 40, 000 Paid for wages 20, 000

St. Clair River and Rapids, mostly pickerel:

 Valuation $11, 000 Cost of fixtures 2, 000 Paid for wages 1, 200

Port Huron to Point au Barque, 3, 000 barrels, mostly white:

 Valuation $25, 000

Au Sauble 6, 000 barrels, 3/4 white, the rest trout:

 Valuation $50, 000 Boats, nets, etc. 13, 000 Paid for wages 7, 000

Thunder Bay and vicinity, above Sauble River, 6, 000 barrels, mostlywhite:

 Valuation $50, 000

Saginaw Bay and River, 2, 000 barrels pickerel and 1, 500 white andtrout:

 Valuation $32, 000

Tawas, 600 barrels, mostly white:

 Valuation $5, 000

Between Thunder Bay and Mackinac, 500 barrels, mostly white:

 Valuation $4, 500

Mackinac, including all brought there, 7, 500 barrels, 3/4 or 7/8white:

 Valuation $62, 000

Beaver Islands and neighborhood, 7, 000 barrels, nearly all white:

 Valuation $59, 000

Green Bay in Michigan, 3, 000 barrels, all white:

 Valuation $25, 500

Island between De Tour and the Saut, 1, 000 barrels, 2/3 white, therest trout:

 Valuation $8, 000

Green Bay in Wisconsin, 2, 500 barrels white and 500 barrels pickerel, all packed:

 Valuation $25, 000

Of the catch of Lake Huron, only an inconsiderable amount are soldfresh. On Detroit River about 4, 000 barrels were packed last year. 

Having procured specific information of the cost of outfit and amountpaid for wages at the Sauble fisheries, we have taken suchexpenditures as the basis for those of all the upper lake fisheries inproportion to the catch, which in the main will doubtless provesubstantially correct. At the Sauble last season there were sixteenboats employed for two months, and eight for the rest of the season. The value of the boats was $200 each, and the nets, etc. , cost anadditional sum of $600 for each, making the aggregate value of theboats and their outfit about $13, 000. About forty men were employed onan average during the season, receiving a probable aggregate of $7, 000for wages. Taking these outlays, etc. , as a fair average, and we havethe following result:

From Port Huron to the Beavers, inclusive, together with Green Bay inMichigan, and the Saut Islands:

 Cost of outfit $83, 500 Amount paid for wages 45, 000 Average number of men 300

The amount shipped from Lake Superior, as appears from the report ofthe Superintendent of the Saut canal is 4, 000 barrels. This isprobably not a tithe of what might be done. The mouth of almost everystream in that region affords good fishing grounds, which is also trueof most of the islands, particularly Isle Royale, where the siscowitis very abundant. 

The fisheries on the east coast of Lake Michigan have for about sixyears past increased very rapidly in importance, some years gaining100 per cent, on the year preceding. A few years since a party ofNorwegians came on and embarked in the business, which they haveprosecuted ever since with advantage and profit. Trained in the severeschool of their rugged northern home, they exhibit the greatestdaring, going out in their tiny craft during the heaviest gales. Theyfrequently venture out twenty-five miles from shore, almost meetingtheir countrymen from the Wisconsin side of the lake, who are engagedin the same hazardous calling. We have the following returns:

Little Traverse, 600 barrels:

 Valuation $4, 000 300 nets and 6 boats, worth 1, 800 Paid for wages 575

Big Point Sauble, 1, 500 barrels:

 Valuation $12, 000 600 nets and 8 boats 3, 600 Paid for wages 1, 700

Little Point Sauble, 2, 000 barrels:

 Valuation $16, 500 750 nets and 10 boats 4, 500 Paid for wages 2, 000

White Lake, 1, 500 barrels:

 Valuation $12, 000 500 nets and 5 boats 3, 000 Paid for wages 1, 600

Grand Haven, 4, 000 barrels:

 Valuation $32, 800 800 nets and 8 boats 4, 000 Paid for wages 5, 000

Saugatuck, 2, 000 barrels:

 Valuation $16, 000 600 nets and 6 boats 3, 600 Paid for wages 2, 500

South Haven, 2, 100 barrels:

 Valuation $16, 800 600 nets and 6 boats 1, 200 Paid for wages 2, 500

St. Joseph's 3, 500 barrels:

 Valuation $28, 000 1, 200 nets and 9 boats 7, 500 Paid for wages

New Buffalo, 300 barrels:

 Valuation $3, 000 400 nets and 5 boats 2, 600 Paid for wages 450

Michigan City, 3, 000 barrels:

 Valuation $30, 000 1, 020 nets and 18 boats 8, 000 Paid for wages 4, 400

Showing an aggregate of 21, 000 barrels, of which about 18, 000 barrelsare salted; valuation $169, 800; value of fixtures $43, 600; estimatedamount paid for wages, $22, 000. 

The fishing grounds of Michigan City are almost entirely within ourState. The number of barrels include those sold fresh as well assalted, there being a considerable quantity of the former, in some ofthe fisheries last named, Michigan City and New Buffalo especially, from whence they are sent packed in ice to the different towns inMichigan; also to Lafayette and Indianapolis, Indiana, to Louisville, Kentucky, to Cincinnati, and also to Chicago, where they are repackedin ice, and some of them find their way to St. Louis, Cairo, etc. FromSt. Joseph and Grand Haven there are large quantities sent fresh toChicago and Milwaukee, where they are repacked in ice. 

At a fair estimate for the few small fisheries on this coast fromwhich we have no return, together with those on the west coast of LakeMichigan, they are worth at least $60, 000, but we have no data bywhich to form an estimate of the proportion packed. 

The number of men employed, and the consequent expense, variesaccording to the method employed. With seines the occupation is verylaborious, and requires a much stronger force than pound nets. One setof hands can manage a number of the latter. Some of the fisheries onDetroit and St. Clair rivers use seines altogether, to draw which, horse-power is brought into requisition in some cases. A double setof men are employed, working alternately day and night, and theexposure is a most disagreeable feature of the business, particularlyin bad weather. The great bulk of the aggregate catch continues to betaken with seines or gill nets, but pound (or trap) nets are on theincrease. They have been in use below Lake Huron more or less for thepast four or five years, but it is only about two years since theirintroduction in the upper lakes. With these nets 100 barrels ofwhite-fish have been taken at a single haul. Of course their generaluse must produce a material diminution in the supply. 

As regards capital invested, there is in particular instances a widedifference. George Clark, Esq. , nine miles below Detroit, has $12, 000invested in his grounds, owing mostly to the cost of removingobstructions. But this is an exception. 

The barrels for packing constitute no inconsiderable item of this vastand important trade. Their manufacture is a regular branch in PortHuron, but most of them are made by the fishermen when not engaged intheir regular vocation. They are made at all the villages and fishingstations on Lake Huron, pine being generally easy of access. Thebarrels are worth 62-1/2 cents each; half-barrels, 50 cents. Overtwo-thirds of the packages used are halves, but our estimated totalsof the catch represent wholes. 

Formerly the nets used also to be made almost entirely by thefishermen, who usually procured the twine from Detroit. Latterly, manyof them have been brought from Boston already made. 

Salt is another large item. For packing and repacking, aboutone-fourth of a barrel is used to each barrel of fish. For the amountpacked, therefore, in the fisheries we have described, about 20, 000barrels are used. 

 Total proceeds of Michigan fisheries $620, 000 Total proceeds of all enumerated 900, 000 Total capital invested 252, 000 Paid for wages 171, 000 Aggregate of barrels salted, say 80, 000 bbls. Cost of packages 70, 000 Cost of salt 22, 000

The catch at the Sauble and Thunder Bay showed a falling off lastseason, owing not to the want of fish, but to the unfavorable weather. At these points they congregate only from October to the close, andthe weather being very rough last fall, the catch was comparativelylight. 

Mackinac has been famous as the greatest fishing point on the lakes. Gill nets are mostly in vogue. The work in that locality is mostlydone by half-breeds, in the employ of the merchants, the latterfurnishes the salt, and paying them in trade, of which the outfitgenerally constitutes a part. But with the late general depression, prices declined some thirty or forty per cent. , and consequently thebusiness, previously quite lucrative, lost its attraction for the timebeing. The merchants advanced the means in summer, and could notrealize until the ensuing year. Small holders were obliged to sell, some of the time by forcing the market, and this added to thedifficulty experienced by large holders in obtaining returns. 

Much has been said in reference to the coal fields of Michigan, andwithin the past two or three years, explorations, with a view ofdeveloping these deposits, have been conducted in different portionsof the State. There is no longer any doubt of the existence of avaluable field of coal in central Michigan. There have been openingsat different points in the State; at Jackson and Sandstone, in Jacksoncounty; at Owasso and Corunna in Shiawassee county; at Flint inGenesee county, and at Lansing, coal has been found deposited in veinsof from twenty inches to four feet in thickness. Most of the openingshave been upon veins outcropping at the surface of the ground, andthere has been little difficulty in procuring samples of coal fromthese veins in many localities in the State. These deposits of coalfound at, and near the surface, are producing coal in limitedquantities in different localities, but no works have been prosecutedwith a view to supplying any but a limited local demand. From thesurface evidences of a coal field on the line of the Detroit andMilwaukee Road near Owasso, and from explorations and developmentsalready made, some specimens of the coal having been produced andshipped to Detroit, it has been determined to prosecute the work atthat point. 

In Jackson county, however, the matter of mining has become anenterprise of some magnitude, and we are enabled to give some factsand figures which exhibit in some measure the importance to the Stateof this new branch of industry. There are several "workings" of coalin the vicinity of Jackson, and several companies have been formed forthe purpose of mining coal. Considerable coal has been mined and soldfrom these different workings and mines. The principal mine, and onewhich in all its arrangements and provisions is equal to any mine inthe country, is that of the Detroit and Jackson Coal and MiningCompany. The works of this Company are at Woodville station on theline of the Michigan Central Railroad, about three and a half mileswest of Jackson city. 

The mine is situated on the north side of the Railroad and about halfa mile from the main track. The Coal Company have built a side trackfrom the Central Road to the mouth of their shaft. The shaft fromwhich the coal is taken is ninety feet deep, and at the bottom passesthrough a vein of coal about four feet in thickness. This vein hasbeen opened in different directions for several hundred feet from theshaft, and with a tram-road through the different entries the coal isreached and brought from the rooms to the shaft, and then lifted bysteam to the surface. This coal has been transported to differentpoints in the State and is rapidly coming into use for all ordinarypurposes, taking the place of many of the Ohio coals and at a reducedcost. The mine to which reference is made is within _four hours'_ rideof Detroit, on the Central Road, and a visit of two hours (which canbe accomplished any day, by taking the morning train, leaving the cityat 9 45 and returning so as to reach here at half past six in theevening, ) will repay any one for the trouble. The station is calledWoodville, and is only three and a half miles west of Jackson. 

Michigan, hitherto a heavy importer of salt, is in a fair way not onlyto have amply sufficient for her own wants, but something perhaps tospare. To aid in developing our saline resources, the Legislaturewisely provided a bounty upon the production, which has alreadybrought forth good fruits. At Grand Rapids, salt water has beendiscovered much stronger than that of the Syracuse springs, requiringonly twenty-nine gallons to produce a bushel. --Arrangements have beenalmost perfected for commencing the manufacture upon a very extensivescale. 

At Saginaw, within a few days, at the depth of 620 feet, copiousvolumes of brine were revealed. This is also stronger than any in NewYork. From some cause, it is sought to keep this information a secret, but it is fair to presume it would soon have leaked out. The salt bothat Grand Rapids and Saginaw, is a beautiful article, of great purity. 

When Nature formed the Grand River and Saginaw valleys, she seems tohave been engaged in an animated contest with herself. Thedevelopments are such as to warrant the conviction that other andperhaps equally valuable salt springs lie hidden in the interveningspace between those valleys. These and other discoveries plainlyindicate that the employment of a large amount of capital indeveloping the latent resources of Michigan would amply "pay. "

The inexhaustible plaster beds of Grand Rapids constitute one of theprime sources of prosperity of that enterprising metropolis of theGrand River Delta. Our whole State has also a great interest in thetrade, the material being, it is admitted, a better fertilizer thanthe imported article. 

CHAPTER XV. 

 Desirableness of a trip to the Lakes -- Routes of travel -- Interesting localities -- Scenery -- Southern coast -- Portage Lake -- Dr. Houghton -- Ontonagon -- Apostles' Islands -- Return trip -- Points of interest -- St. Mary's River -- Lake St. George -- Point de Tour -- Lake Michigan -- Points of interest -- Chicago. 

A trip to the northern lakes, for variety and beauty of scenery tosuch as are seeking enjoyment and pleasure, possesses advantages overevery other route of travel in the United States, and with theexception of the works of art and the classical associations of theold world, is unsurpassed by any on the globe. To such as are in questof health, no comparison can be instituted, as it has beendemonstrated that the Northwest, especially in the region of thelakes, possesses the most invigorating climate in the world. Areference to the mortuary tables removes all doubt on this point. Inthe town of Marquette, on Lake Superior, containing a population ofover three thousand, there were during the last year but eightdeaths, and only a portion of that number was from disease. 

Our object in this chapter is to notice the various routes of travelto the interesting localities in the Northwest. During the summermonths the most pleasant mode of conveyance is by water. The HudsonRiver boats, compared with which no inland steamers are superior, leave, every day, the foot of Courtland street for Albany. By takingpassage on an evening boat, after a quiet night's rest the travelerwill find himself at Albany the next morning, where he can take thecars for Buffalo, at which point he will be able to take a steamer forDetroit. From thence he can take a steamer for Superior City, passingthrough Lakes St. Clair and Huron, and up the Saut St. Mary to LakeSuperior. On the route from the Saut he will pass the followingpoints, Point Iroquois, White-Fish Point, Point Au Sable, PicturedRocks, Grand Island, Marquette, Manitou Island, Copper Harbor, EagleHarbor, Eagle River, Ontonagon, La Point, Bayfield and Point De Tour. The usual time occupied in passing over this route is abouttwenty-four hours. In leaving the Saut above the Rapids the steamerenters Lequamenon, passing Iroquois Point fifteen miles distant on thesouthern shore, while Gros Cap, on the Canada shore, can be seenabout four miles distant. The porphyry hills, of which this point iscomposed, rise to a height of seven hundred feet above the lake, andpresent a grand appearance. North of Gros Cap is Goulais Bay, and inthe distance a bold headland named Goulais Point can be seen. Indeedthe whole north shore presents a scene of wild grandeur. Near themiddle of Lequamenon Bay is Parisien Island which belongs to Canada;opposite to this island on the north is seen Croulee Point, aninteresting locality in the vicinity of which are numerous islands. Still further on the steamer passes Mamainse Point, another boldheadland once the seat of the works of the Quebec Copper MiningCompany, but now abandoned in consequence of their unproductiveness;some fifteen or twenty miles further north, is located the MontrealCompany's copper mine. The traveler has now fairly entered the vastmineral region of Lake Superior, and passes along a coast hundreds ofmiles in extent, "abounding in geological phenomena, varied mineralwealth, agates, cornelian, jasper, opal, and other precious stones, with its rivers, bays, estuaries, islands, presque isles, peninsulas, capes, pictured rocks, transparent waters, leaping cascades, and boldhighlands, lined with pure veins of quartz, spar and amethystinecrystals, full to repletion with mineral riches, reflecting ingorgeous majesty the sun's bright rays, and the moon's mellow blush;overtopped with ever verdant groves of fir, cedar, and mountain ash, while the back ground is filled up with mountain upon mountain, until, rising in majesty to the clouds, distance loses their inequalityresting against the clear vault of Heaven. "

On the southern shore, beyond White Fish Point, immense sand hills canbe seen rising from four hundred to one thousand feet in height. Afterpassing Pictured Rocks, which we have elsewhere described, the steamerapproaches Grand Island, the shores of which present a magnificentappearance. This island is about one hundred twenty-five miles fromthe Saut and is about ten miles long and five wide. It is wild andromantic. The cliffs of sandstone broken into by the waves formpicturesque caverns, pillars, and arches of great dimensions. Forty-five miles further is the town of Marquette one of the mostflourishing places on the borders of the lake, and the entrepot of thevast mineral wealth in that region. Near this place are the Carp andDead rivers, both which have rapids and falls of great beauty. Sailingin a northwestern direction the steamer passes Standards Rock, asolitary and dangerous projection, rising out of the lake at theentrance of Keweenaw Bay. At the head of this bay stands the harborof L'Anse a short distance from which are located a Roman Catholic andMethodist mission house and church, both of which, on each sides ofthe bay where they are located, are surrounded by Indian tribes andsettlements. 

Passing along, the steamer enters Portage Lake an extensive andbeautiful sheet of water extending nearly the entire breadth of thepeninsula of Keweenaw Point, which is a large extent of land juttingout into Lake Superior, from ten to twenty miles wide and sixty inlength. This whole section abounds in silver and copper ores. Afterpassing Manitou Island, Copper Harbor, one of the best on the lake isreached. At this place there is a flourishing village. The next pointsare Agate Harbor, Eagle Harbor, and Eagle River Harbor. It was at thispoint that the lamented Dr. Houghton was drowned in October 1845. Hewas the State Geologist of Michigan, and while coming down from aportage to Copper Harbor, with his four Indian companions _du voyage_, the boat was swamped in a storm about a mile and a half from EagleRiver. Two of the _voyageurs_ were saved by being thrown by the wavesupon the rocks ten feet above the usual level of the waters. 

The next point, three hundred and thirty-six miles from the Saut, isOntonagon situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. Aflourishing town is located here having several churches. In itsvicinity are the Minnesota, Norwich, National, Rockland, and severalother copper mines of great productiveness; silver is also foundintermixed with the copper ore, which abounds in great masses. LaPoint, four hundred and ten miles from the Saut and eighty-three fromSuperior City, which is next reached, is situated on Madeline Island, one of the group of the Twelve Apostles. It was settled at an earlyday by the Jesuit Missionaries and the American Fur Traders. Thepopulation is mixed, consisting of Indians, French, Canadians andAmericans. It has long been the favorite resort of the "red man" aswell as the "pale face, " and possesses a historic interest totravelers. The adjacent islands of the Twelve Apostles groupedtogether a short distance from the main land, present during thesummer months a most lovely and beautiful appearance. Cliffs from oneto two hundred feet, may be seen rising above the waters, crowned withthe richest foliage. Passing Rayfield, a village on the mainland, andAshland, a settlement at the head of Chag-wamegon Bay, and the Maskegand Montreal Rivers, the steamer, after rounding Point de Tour, enters Fon du Lac, a noble bay at the head of Lake Superior, twentymiles in width and fifty miles in length, on the shore of which standsSuperior City, near the mouth of St. Louis River. This is aflourishing place, possessing great commercial importance, and which, at no distant day, must be connected with the mouth of the ColumbiaRiver and Puget Sound. On the return trip coasting along thenorthwest, the steamer passes numerous points of interest. At theextreme west end of Lake Superior, seven miles northwest from SuperiorCity, stands the village of Portland. Along the shore northward arebold sandy bluffs and highlands which are supposed to be rich inmineral wealth. Encampment, the name of a river, island, and village, is a romantic spot. Immense cliffs of greenstone are to be seen risingfrom two hundred to three hundred feet above the water's edge;northward along the shore porphyry abounds in great quantity. Thispoint is noted for the singular agitation of the magnetic needle. Hiawatha, Grand Portage, Pigeon Bay, Pie Island, Thunder Cape, andThunder Bay, surrounded by grand scenery; Isle Royale, Fort William, astrong post of the Hudson Bay Company. Black Bay, Nepigon Bay, on theextreme north of the lake. St. Ignace Island, State Islands, PicIsland Michipicoten Island, formerly the seat of Lake Superior SilverMining Company of Canada. Montreal Island, Carabon Island and otherpoints of interest. 

Re-entering the Saut the steamer shapes her course for Mackinaw. TheGarden River settlement, an Indian village ten miles below the Saut, is on the Canada shore. A mission church and several dwellingsoccupied by Chippewa Indians may be found here. The St. Mary's Riverpresents the finest scenery. A traveler in describing it says, "Thereis a delicious freshness in the countless evergreen islands that dotthe river in every direction from the Falls to Lake Huron. " The nextpoint is Church's Landing on Sugar Island, opposite to which isSquirrel Island belonging to the Canadians. Lake George twenty milesbelow the Saut is an expansion of the River which at this point isfive miles wide. The steamer soon enters the Nebish Rapids, afterpassing Lake George, and the main land of Canada, stretching out tothe north in a dreary wilderness, is lost sight of. Sugar Island whichis a large body of fertile land belonging to the United States, nearthe head of St. Joseph's Island is next reached, and then insuccession, Nebish Island, Mud Lake, another expansion of the river, Lime Island, Carltonville, St. Joseph's Island, a large and fertilebody of land belonging to Canada, once the site of a fort; DrummondIsland, belonging to the United States, and Point De Tour, at themouth of the river, the site of a light-house and settlement. Theother points of interest are Round Island, Bois Blanc, at the head ofLakes Huron and Mackinac, all of which we have elsewhere described. Ateast the steamer enters the Straits of Mackinaw, and the site of theold fort and town heave in view. These straits are from four to twentymiles in width, and extend east and west about twenty miles. 

Lake Michigan now spreads out its beautiful sheet of water, second insize to Superior, and invites the traveler to sail along its shoresand among its islands. The points of interest are, La Gros Cap, apicturesque headland; Garden and Hog Islands, Great and Little BeaverIslands, Fox Island, on the west of which is the entrance to GreenBay, and on the east the entrance to Grand Traverse Bay, the Great ornorth Manitou, and the Little or south Manitou Islands, Kewawnee, TwoRivers, Manitoulin and Sheboygan, Port Washington, Milwaukee, Racine, Waukegan and other places of minor importance. After passing thelocalities on the western shore, at length Chicago is seen in thedistance, stretching along for miles and presenting a fineappearance. From this point the traveler can return to New York, byway of Detroit, through Canada on the railroad, or he may if hechooses take a southern route. Such are the facilities for travel thatthe tourist will be at no loss during the entire season in findingexcellent steamers and good accommodations. Steamers of the firstclass leave Cleveland on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays ofeach week, for Lake Superior, touching at the various ports on theroute. Persons in the West or South, who may desire to visit the lakescan thus be at any time accommodated. 

Should the tourist prefer taking another route from Buffalo, insteadof passing over Lake Erie and up the Detroit River, he can go directto Collingwood at the foot of Georgian Bay, and from thence can takesteamer for Saut St. Mary, Chicago or any other point he may desire inthe Northwest. 

THE END.