[Transcriber's note:This text contains the unicode characters ā, ă, ē, ĕ, ō and ŏ in afew places. If any of these characters do not display for you properly, please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription. 

Some inconsistencies in the dates have been corrected in chapters XV andXVI:September 29th changed to August 29th, October 1st to September 1st, andOctober 4th to September 4th. ]

NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICAPERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51, UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. 

BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA. "

IN TWO VOLUMES. 

VOL. I. 

LONDON:CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY. 

MDCCCLIII. 

LONDON:Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq. 

PREFACE. 

The task of the Editor of these volumes has been principally one ofarrangement and compression. The late lamented Mr. James Richardson leftbehind him a copious journal, comprised in eight small butclosely-written volumes, besides a vast heap of despatches and scatteredmemoranda; and, at first sight, it seemed to me that it would benecessary to melt the whole down into a narrative in the third person. On attentively studying the materials before me, however, I perceivedthat Mr. Richardson had written in most places with a view topublication; and that, had he lived, he would soon have brought what, ona cursory examination, appeared a mere chaotic mass, into a shape thatwould have accorded with his own idea of a book of travels. Such beingthe case, I thought it best--in order to leave the stamp of authenticityon this singular record of enterprise--to do little more than the authorwould himself have done. In the form of a diary, therefore--writtensometimes with Oriental _naïveté_--the reader will here find what may becalled the domestic history of one of the most successful expeditionsundertaken for the exploration of Central Africa. I believe it wouldhave been possible to get up a work of more temporary interest from thesame materials; but this could only have been done by sacrificingtruthfulness of detail. In the present form, Mr. Richardson's journalwill always remain as an authority on the geography and presentcondition of a large portion of the Saharan desert, hitherto unvisited, at any rate undescribed. 

As will be seen, the Mission was accompanied by two German gentlemen, Drs. Barth and Overweg--the former, of whom I had the pleasure ofmeeting in Egypt, after his enterprising ride along the coast of Libya. They are still in Central Africa, pushing their excursions on all sides, from Bornou into unknown tracts; and the accounts they may publish ontheir return will be anxiously looked for. The great traverse of theSaharan desert, however, with all its vicissitudes and dangers, thephysical aspect of that wonderful region, and the manners of the varioustribes that inhabit it, will, in the present volume, be found to befully described--not, it is true, with much attempt at literaryornament, but in the vivid though simple language in which a man setsdown impressions which he has just received. I have endeavoured toremove all the faults which may be supposed to have arisen from haste orcarelessness, and have necessarily re-written several passages, andpassed a correcting pen over the whole manuscript. But I think I may saywith confidence, that there is no observation or statement in thefollowing pages which cannot be justified by a reference to the originaljournals and scattered memoranda. 

To me this simple record of daily occurrences seems highly interesting. It divides itself, naturally, into a succession of parts of unequalimportance. First comes an account of the journey to Mourzuk, thecapital of Fezzan, containing the traverse of the frightful Hamadah orplateau which separates that province from the regency of Tripoli. Thenwe have a residence at Mourzuk itself, Mr. Richardson being obliged towait the arrival from Ghât of an escort of Tuarick chieftains, with whomhe had partly made acquaintance during a former trip in the desert. Thisescort appeared after some delay; and the Mission proceeded across theFezzan plains to the independent state of Ghât, through a very wild andpicturesque country. At this point began, if not the most arduous, atany rate the most dangerous, and at the same time the most novel, partof the journey. Mr. Richardson had undertaken, on his way to SoudanProper (his first destination), to pass by the hitherto unexploredkingdom of Aheer or Asben, situated towards the southern limits of theSahara. The march of the Mission across the deserts that lie betweenGhât and that territory was rendered exciting by continual reports ofdanger from pursuing freebooters of the Haghar and Azgher tribes; butthe enemy were outstripped, and no actual attack took place until thefirst inhabited districts of Aheer were reached. Here some lawlesstribes levied black-mail, on the caravan, which was then permitted toproceed, though in doubt and alarm, until it arrived under thelong-expected protection of Sheikh En-Noor, one of the great chiefs ofthe Kailouee tribes, at his town, or rather encampment, of Tintalous. Mr. Richardson's residence at this place was long and tedious. Hesuffered, besides, from the extortionate disposition of the Sheikh orSultan, who, however, after considerable exactions, became his friend. This Saharan character is brought out by a succession of amusingtouches. But our traveller was impatient to proceed, and seems to havehailed with delight the announcement that the great Salt-Caravan, whichannually transports the necessary condiment from Bilma _viâ_ Aheer tothe south, was about to start, and that the Sheikh and the Christianswere to accompany it. Some further disappointments occurred, but atlength the Mission proceeded to Damerghou, whence Drs. Barth and Overwegwent, one to Maradee and the other to Kanou, whilst Mr. Richardsonproceeded alone to Zinder, situated in the province of Damagram. Here hewas well received by the Sarkee, or Governor, and he dilates withwell-founded exultation on his escape from the insolent and rapaciousTuaricks. Sad sights, however, connected with the slave-trade, checkedhis delight. During his stay the Sarkee went out in person to hunt downthe subjects of his own sovereign, that he might pay his debts byselling them into captivity. After another considerable delay Mr. Richardson was enabled to start once more, and being obliged to changehis original plan proceeded to Kuka, the capital of Bornou, by way ofMinyo. Shortly after leaving Gurai, the chief town of that province, theunfortunate traveller found his strength to be gradually giving way. Hehad already previously complained of the heat and fatigue, but did notseem to have felt any great alarm. Now, however, the climate seems tohave told upon him with sudden and fatal violence. His last moments aredescribed in a letter from his fellow-traveller, Dr. Barth, who hastenedto the spot with laudable energy as soon as he heard of the melancholycatastrophe that had taken place. Mr. Richardson died at Ungurutua, about six days' journey from Kuka, the capital of Bornou, on the 4th ofMarch, 1851, eleven months after his departure from Tripoli. 

I have observed that the Mission, the first transactions of which aredescribed in these volumes, is entitled to be called successful. Although the original promoter and director died just as he was on thepoint of reaching the termination of his journey, his enterprisingcompanions, Drs. Barth and Overweg, seem to have carried on anddeveloped admirably the plan at first laid down. If they be spared toreturn to Europe they will bring home, no doubt, geographicalinformation so valuable that all Mr. Richardson's predictions will befound to be amply fulfilled. As it is, however, the object of ourpractical fellow-countryman may be said to have been accomplished. Hedid not lay so much stress on the accurate determination of latitude andlongitude, of the heights of mountains and the courses of valleys, as onmatters that come more nearly home to human sympathies. The abolition ofthe system of slavery--many affecting illustrations of which will befound in these volumes--seems to have engaged the chief of hisattention. It was with this benevolent object that he originally turnedhis attention to Africa; and he had become convinced that the best meansof effecting it was to encourage legitimate traffic between Europe andthe great nurseries of slaves. Among other things, he wished to show thepossibility of entering into treaties of amity and commerce with themost important states of Central Africa; and although these treaties maynot turn out to be of great immediate utility, it is always worth whilethat future explorers should know, that on the borders of Lake Tchadthere is a power which professes to be united with England in formalties of friendship, and that the Sultan of Bornou has never shown anydisposition to break his promises or secede from his engagements. As tothe question, whether legitimate commerce can advantageously be carriedon across the Sahara, and substituted for the frightful traffic in humanbeings, I do not consider that it is as yet decided; but Mr. Richardson's researches will throw great light on this interestingsubject. 

I do not intend here to attempt an account of the services rendered byMr. Richardson to the sciences of geography and ethnography during hisuseful career. At some future period, no doubt, this task will beperformed; and it will not fail to be added, that he was always impelledby a higher motive than the mere satisfaction of curiosity or ambition. A profound conviction that something might be done towards amelioratingthe condition of the African nations, if we were only better acquaintedwith them, seems to have early possessed him. This it was that sustainedand guided his footsteps; and all who knew him unite in testifying thathe concealed beneath a pleasant, cheerful exterior, the character of aChristian gentleman, and an ardent crusader against the worst form ofoppression which has ever been put in practice. The hope that the publicwill unite in this opinion must certainly assist in consoling his widowfor the loss which she has sustained. Mrs. Richardson is alluded to inthe narrative throughout. It is necessary, therefore, to say, that thatlady remained in Tripoli until the news of her bereavement reached her, and that she then returned to England to promote the erection of thisbest monument to her husband's memory. 

I have now only to add an account written by Dr. Barth (dated April 3, 1851) of the death of Mr. Richardson, in a letter addressed to Mr. Crowe, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General at Tripoli. The Germantraveller, as will be seen in the second volume of this work, hadseparated from his English companions on the plains of Damerghou, andproceeded to prosecute other researches, the results of which will belooked for with great interest:--

 "It was on the 25th of March, " he says, "that I heard accidentally from a Shereef, whom I met on the road, the sad news that my companion had died, about twenty days before, in a place called Ungurutua, six days' journey before reaching Kuka, when I hurried on as fast as my horse would allow in order to secure his papers and effects from being lost or destroyed. 

 "I now shall send you a short account of Mr. Richardson's death, as far as I was able to make out the circumstances from his servant. Mr. Richardson is said to have left Zinder in the best health, though it is probable that he felt already very weak while he was there: for, according to the man whom he hired in Zinder as his dragoman, he had, while there, a dream that a bird came down from the sky, and when sitting on the branch of a tree, the branch broke off and the bird fell down to the earth. Mr. Richardson being very much affected by this dream, went to a man who from a huge book explains to the people their dreams. On the man's telling him that his dream meant death, he seems really to have anticipated that he would not reach the principal object of his journey. But, nevertheless, he seemed to be quite well, mounting even the horse which the Governor of Zinder had made him a present of, as far as Minyo, when he begged the Governor to give him a camel, which he mounted thenceforward. He felt notoriously ill in Kadalebria, eleven or twelve days' journey from here (Kuka); and he is said by his servant to have taken different kinds of medicines, one after the other: from which you may conclude that he did not know himself what was his illness. Mr. Richardson never could bear the sun, and the sun being very powerful at this time of the year, it must have affected him very much. I think this to be the chief reason of his death; at least, he seems not to have had a regular fever. He was happy to reach the large town of Rangarvia after a journey of three short days, and had the intention of returning from here directly to Tripoli, without touching at Kuka and the low, hot plain of Bornou, which he was affrightened of very much. He offered two hundred mahboubs for a guide to conduct him directly to the road to Bilma; but there being no road from here, and no guide having been found, it was necessary first to go to Kuka. 

 "Mr. Richardson, therefore, seems to have taken strong medicines; in consequence of which, in the evening of the third day of their halt at Rangarvia, after having taken a walk through the town, he felt well enough to fix his outset for the next morning. But this day being rather a long one, and the sun being very powerful, he became very tired and unwell; and the more so as, notwithstanding his illness, he had not left off drinking milk, even on his camel, mixing some brandy with it. Having recovered a little during the night, he moved on the next morning, but ordered a halt about noon, on account of his weakness. Having started again at sunset, they encamped at midnight. The next day, after a short journey, they reached the Wady Mettaka. Mr. Richardson seemed to feel much better, and drank milk and a little jura, besides rice. From this place, on the last day of Kebia-el-awel, the caravan, after but a two-hours' march, reached the village called Ungurutua, when Mr. Richardson soon felt so weak that he anticipated his death; and leaving the hut (where he was established) for his tent, told his dragoman, Mahommed Bu Saad, that he would die. Being consoled by him that his illness was of no consequence, he assured him several times that he had no strength at all; and indeed his pulse ceased almost to beat. He began, then, to rub his feet with vinegar, and applied the same several times to his head and shoulders. After which, in the absence of his servants, he poured water also over himself; so that, when they returned after a few moments, they found him quite wet. To counteract the bad effect of this proceeding, they began to rub him with a little oil. In the evening he took a little food, and tried to sleep; but notwithstanding that he seems to have taken something to bring on sleep, he threw himself restless from one side to the other, calling his wife several times by her name. After having walked out of his tent with the assistance of his servant, he ordered tea, and remained restless on his bed. When it was past midnight, his old dragoman, Yusuf Moknee, who watched in his tent, made some coffee, in order to keep himself awake; upon which Mr. Richardson demanded a cup of coffee for himself; but his hand being so weak that he could scarcely raise the cup, he said to Moknee: '_Tergamento Ufa_, '--'Your office as dragoman is finished;' and repeated several times, with a broken voice, '_Forza mafishe, forza mafishe le-koul_, '--'I have no strength, I have no strength, I tell you, ' at the same time laying Mahommed's hand on his shoulder. Feeling death approaching, he got up in a sitting posture, being supported by Mahommed, and soon expired, after three times deep breathing. He was entirely worn out, and died quietly, about two after midnight, Tuesday, 4th March (Jumed-el-awel), without the least struggle. His servant then called into the tent the other people and the Kashalla, or officer of the Sheikh, who had come along with them from Zinder, in order to be witness, and while wrapping the body of the deceased in three shirts which they had cut up, ordered the people of the village to dig a grave for him. They then shut up whatever of the luggage of Mr. Richardson was not locked up, and prepared everything for their journey to Kuka. Early in the morning they lifted the body, wrapped up as it was, upon Mr. Richardson's carpet, and carried him to his grave, which had been dug in the shade of a large gaw, close to the village, to the depth of four feet. Having then covered his head and breast with a very large tabah, so as to protect it from every side, they covered the body with earth, and had the grave well secured. I have spoken several times with Haj Beshir that it might be well taken care of, and I am sure the grave of the traveller, who sacrificed his life for his great object, will be respected. I send you with this first kafila all Mr. Richardson's papers and his journal, which is kept till the 21st February, consisting of six reams, and his vocabularies, not finished, four reams, with Yusuf's journal, as well as all his other papers or letters. I have taken out only the letters of recommendation of the Mission and the papers concerning the treaty to be made, as well as a letter from Lousou, one of the Tuaricks, and another from Ibrahim, the Governor of Zinder, to the Queen, which I shall enclose in my report to Government. I send you, besides, an authentic list of all the objects found in Mr. Richardson's possession, as it has been made up on the things being deposited with Haj Beshir. 

 "I beg you to assure Mrs. Richardson of my most sincere sympathy, and that I hope she will find a good deal of consolation in the rich journal of the deceased. "

I have given the above narrative in the words of Dr. Barth; but mustdirect the reader's attention to vol. Ii. P. 261, where he will findthat the whole account of the prophetic dream is distorted by the veryunauthentic medium of Oriental report. There is no reason to supposethat Mr. Richardson was unusually affected by this circumstance, although any dismal suggestion is likely to disturb a person ofsensibility placed in a dangerous position. The remaining facts, as theyseem confirmed by concurrent testimony, may be taken as a sufficientlyaccurate account of the death of this lamented traveller. 

From the statements which have from time to time appeared in the press, the public are already aware, that the presents and the treaty intendedfor the Sheikh of Bornou were duly presented and accepted, and that theboat which caused Mr. Richardson so much anxiety on the road wasultimately launched, as he desired, on lake Tchad, and employed in thesurvey of that celebrated piece of water. It is unnecessary here tonotice the results of this survey, or of the explorations subsequentlyundertaken by Messrs. Barth and Overweg. These gentlemen, it is to behoped, will be more fortunate than their colleague, and return to givein person an account of their exertions and discoveries. 

I shall conclude by expressing my hope that Mr. Richardson's reputationwill not suffer from the way in which I have superintended thepublication of his remains, and my regret that I am not able to dojustice to the great services which he has rendered to philology by hiscopious collections of vocabularies of the languages, both of the Saharaand of the various kingdoms of Central Africa. 

BAYLE ST. JOHN, _London, January 1853. _

P. S. It may be as well to mention that the extensive collections ofvocabularies made by Mr. Richardson are now preserved at the ForeignOffice, together with specimens of translations from the Scriptures. Allthese collections are extremely valuable, but especially those of theBornou language, which were much wanted. 

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival atTripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for LakeTchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk andGhât--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--Anaristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacksreturning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Deserttravelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans fromCentral Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimateTraffic--Spread of Civilisation. 

CHAPTER II. 

Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A FamilyQuarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two madFellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--TheCastle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--TurkishTax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the loftyPlain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A SlaveCaravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--DoubleVillage--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A PocketProvince--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character ofFezzanees--A Leopard abroad. 

CHAPTER III. 

Leave Mizdah--Gloomy Country--Matrimonial Squabbles in theCaravan--"Playing at Powder"--Desert Geology--A Roman Mausoleum--Sport--ABully tamed--Fatiguing March--Wady Taghijah--Our old Friend theEthel-Tree--The Waled Bou Seif--Independent Arabs--A splendidMausoleum--One of the Nagahs foals--Division of a Goat--March over amonotonous Country--Valley of Amjam--Two new Trees--Saluting the NewMoon--Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah--Wady Tubooneeah--TravellingFlies--The Desert Hour--A secluded Oasis--Buying Barley--Ghareeah--RomanRemains--Oasian Cultivation--Taxation--Sand-Pillar--Arrangements forcrossing the Hamadah--An _Emeute_ in the Caravan--Are compelled todischarge the quarrelsome Ali. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Commence crossing the Hamadah--Last Pillar of the Romans--Travelling inthe Desert--Rapid March--Merry Blacks--Dawn--Temperature--Alireturns--Day-travelling--Night-feelings--Animals--Graves ofChildren--Mirage--Extent of the Plateau--It breaks up--Valley ofEl-Hasee--Farewell to the Hamadah--Arduous Journey--TheCamel-drivers--New Country--Moral and religious Disquisitions--TheChaouches--Reach Edree--Abd-el-Galeel--Description of Edree--SubterraneanDwellings--Playing at Powder--The Kaïd--Arabic Literature--Desertion ofthe Zintanah--Leave Edree--Sandy Desert--Bou Keta the Camel-driver--WadyEl-Makmak--The Lizard--Reach Wady Takadafah--Sand--Another _Embroglio_. 

CHAPTER V. 

More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water andHerbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--HotWind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The Chaouchesastray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of the Oasis--Tempest--NativeHuts--Official Visits--Desert News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Moveon--The Kaïd--Modest Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--VastPlain--Instinct of the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede theCaravan--Reach Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--ActingPasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in theDesert. 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Oasis of Fezzan--Population--Ten Districts--Their Denomination andCondition--Sockna--Honn--Worm of the Natron Lakes--Zoueelah--MixedRace--Improvements in Mourzuk--Heavy Ottoman Yoke--Results of theCensus--Amount of Revenue--Military Force--Arab Cavaliers--Barracks--Methodof Recruiting--Turkish System superior to French--Razzias--Population ofMourzuk--Annual Market--Articles of Traffic--Acting-Governor and hisCoadjutors--Story of a faithless Woman--Transit Duties in Fezzan--SlaveTrade--Sulphur in the Syrtis--Proposed Colony from Malta. 

CHAPTER VII. 

DIARY OF A RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 

Sickness of Gagliuffi--Baggage left at Mizdah--Runthar Aga--TheHospital--Various Visits--Arrival of the New Governor--AnimatedScene--Correspondence--Visit Mustapha Agha--Bragging Sheikh Boro--Tibboosof Tibesty--Curious Country--Presents to Turkish Functionaries--AWoman divorced--Haj Lameen--Presents expected--BrilliantAtmosphere--Water-Melons--The Gardens--Winnowing Grain--Housesof Salt Mud--Nymphs of the Gardens--Wells--Presents toFunctionaries--Phrenology--Queen's Birthday--Walks in the Orchards andGardens--Corn-threshing--Kingdom of Aheer--Ass's Head--A Wedding--AFuneral--Great Dinner--Tibboos--Prepare to depart--The Pilgrim Caravan;its Privileges--Tuat and the French--Departure of Germans--Wife ofEs-Sfaxee--An Arab Saying--Letters--Disease--Arrival of Escort--EasternConsulates--Business--Hateetah--The Son of Shafou--Poor Sheikhs--HardBargain. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Wars in the Interior--Anticipated Disputes--Mr. Boro of Aghadez--OurTreatment at Mourzuk--Mustapha Bey--Start for Ghât--Row with theEscort--Fine Weather--Leave Tesaoua--Sharaba--Travelling in theHeat--Hateetah and the Germans--The Camels--Snakes--Journeycontinued--Nature of the Country--Complete Desert--Rain--Overtakethe Caravan--Interview with Boro--Pool of Ailouah--TheTanelkums--Halt--Birds--Bir Engleez--Wind in the Desert--BeggingEscort--Brilliant Heavens--News from Ghât--The Pilgrimsagain--Bas-relief of Talazaghe--Moved over theDesert--Mountains--Extraordinary Pass--Central Table-land of Fezzan. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Plain of Taeeta--Fezzan Boundary--Fossils--Tuarick Behaviour--Valley ofTabea--Observations--Fasting--Tuarick Habits--Scorpions andLocusts--Visitors--Heat--Roads--Hot Wind--Pass of Abulaghlagh--ThePalace of Demons--Wheat hid in the Desert--Land of Demons--KasarJanoon--A dear Camel--Visit to the Kasar--Perilous Adventure of Dr. Barth. 

CHAPTER X. 

Approach Ghât--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of aformer Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--TheSheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetingsof Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised onus--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmeddisinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and furtherAnnoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek andthe Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection ofDialogues--The Great Exhibition. 

CHAPTER XI. 

Start from Ghât--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--LastDate-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--TheAkourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataiteeleaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--RockyDesert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatenedForay from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region ofGranite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--GraniteRocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--OurRelations with the Kailouees. 

CHAPTER XII. 

Reach Falezlez--Dates left in the Desert--Road-marks--Disputes with theKailouees--News from Tidek--Scarcity of Food in Aheer--Similitudes andSigns of the Tuaricks--Fine Climate--Arrival of Wataitee--HisBoasting--Saharan travelling--My Umbrella--Grasping Son ofShafou--Geology of the Desert--The "Person who gives"--AnotherCaravan--Tuarick Sportsmen--Wady Aroukeen--Fine Scene--NewTrees--Kailouee Camels--Fine Nights--Well--New Moon--Passing a Caravanin the Desert--Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks--Arrive at Tajetterat--NoRobbers--An Alarm--Well of Esalan--Senna--Birds--Graves of SlaveChildren--Our Grievances against the Tuaricks. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct andstrange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rockyCountry--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--HardDay's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar arecoming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--OurHospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of theKailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--YouthfulConcubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of theHaghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--NewClimate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudentDemand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--ThreateningAppearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--LeaveWaldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailantsdraws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to aCompromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceedtoward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend fromSeloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to belet go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise forMoney--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter theValley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of SultanEn-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy. 

CHAPTER XV. 

Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--Peopleof Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--AFlying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forcedPassage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of theWady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees fromEn-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--RainySeason--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--TheEscort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The WaladSuleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfyingthem--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--ASpeech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Promises of the Sultan--Yellow-painted Women--Presents--Anecdotes--Prepareto visit En-Noor--Our Reception--Dialogue--Seeming Liberality of theSultan--Greediness of his People--No Provisions to be got--FatWomen--Nephew of the Sultan--Tanelkum Beggars--Weather--A DivorcedLady--Aheer Money--Our Camels again stolen--Account of theTanelkums--Huckster Women--Aheer Landscape--Various Causesof Annoyance--No News of the Camels--Anecdote of myServants--Storms--Revolution in the Desert--Name of theCountry--Dr. Overweg--Money and Tin--Saharan Signs--Habits of theRain--Burial of a Woman--Demands of Es-Sfaxee--Salt-cakes ofBilma--People of Tintalous--Wild Animals--List of Towns andVillages--Population of Aheer and Ghât. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Zinder Caravan--Negress playing "Boree"--Curious Scene--Objectsof Barter--Fresh Annoyances--Remarks on our Reception inAheer--En-Noor--Asoudee--Better News--Fresh Extortions--En-Noordisappoints us--Europeans taken for Spies--Things in demand atAheer--Exercise--Overweg's Patients--Wild Animals in Aheer--Kailouees indry Weather--Robbing a Prince--Ghaseb and Ghafouley--AheerCheese--Mokhlah Bou Yeldee--Our Wealth noised abroad--Alarm at Night--Afresh Attack--Saïd's Gallantry--Disorderly Protectors--ThirteenRobbers--Amankee--Loss of my Tea--Country of Thieves. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

We shift our Encampment--En-Noor's Circular--The Kadi's Decision--NoProgress in the Sahara--Aghadez Gumruk--Scorpions--Election of Sultansin Aheer--Present of Salutation--Paying for finding lostProperty--Courier from the new Sultan--No Presents sent us--Notes onDenham--A Bornouese Measure--Intended Razzia--Firing offGunpowder--Hypotheses of Danger--Dress and Women--Enroute toBilma--Soudan Caravan--Visit from Tintaghoda--Aheer Honey--Modes ofMeasurement--Power of En-Noor--Visits to him from great People--Stationson the Bilma Road--Salt-Trade--Account of our Pursuers atTajetterat--Costume of the Kailouees--Their Weapons--PoisonedArrows--Charms--Female Dress--Names of Articles of Costume--Character ofKailouees. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Rainstorm--Overtures from En-Noor--Another Interview--Aheer Fashions--Agreat Lady--Hoisting the British Flag--A devoted Slave--Sultan ofAsoudee--Attack on a Caravan--Purposed Razzia--Desert News--BuyingWives--A peculiar Salutation--Oasis of Janet--New Razzias--Costume ofthe Sultan--The Milky Way--Noise at a Wedding--Unquiet Nights--Sicknessin the Encampment--A captive Scorpion--Nuptial Festivities--An insolentHaghar--Prejudice about Christians--Movements in Aheer--Bullocks. 

[Illustration: OUTLINE OF PART OF AFRICA showing progress of theMission]

NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA. 

CHAPTER I. 

Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival atTripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for LakeTchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk andGhât--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--Anaristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacksreturning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Deserttravelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans fromCentral Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimateTraffic--Spread of Civilisation. 

Since my return from a first tour of exploration in the Great Sahara Ihad carefully revolved in my mind the possibility of a much greaterundertaking, namely, a political and commercial expedition to some ofthe most important kingdoms of Central Africa. The plan appeared to mefeasible; and when I laid it in all its details before her Majesty'sGovernment, they determined, after mature consideration, to empower meto carry it out. Two objects, one principal, necessarily kept somewhatin the background--the abolition of the slave-trade; one subsidiary, andyet important in itself--the promotion of commerce by way of the GreatDesert; appeared to me, and to the distinguished persons who promotedthe undertaking, of sufficient magnitude to justify considerablesacrifices. Much preliminary discussion took place; but the impedimentsand difficulties that naturally start up at the commencement of anyenterprise possessing the character of novelty were gradually overcome, and in the summer of 1849 it was generally known that I was about toproceed, by way of Tripoli and the Sahara, and the hitherto unexploredkingdom of Aheer, to endeavour to open commercial relations and concludetreaties with any native power so disposed, but especially with theSultan of Bornou. It was not thought necessary, however, to surround myMission with any circumstances of diplomatic splendour; and it was stillin the character of Yakōb--a name already known throughout thegreater portion of the route intended to be traversed--that I proposedto resume my intercourse with the Moors, the Fezzanees, the Tibboos, theTuaricks, and other tribes and peoples of the desert and the countriesbeyond. 

The various preparations for the expedition occupied a considerable timebefore I could leave Europe; but I shall pass over all account of these, and enter as soon as possible on the plain narrative of my journey. Wereached Tripoli on January the 31st, 1850, having come circuitously byway of Algeria and Tunis. Divers reasons, on which it is unnecessary toenlarge, had prevented us from adopting a more direct route. However, there had, properly speaking, been no time lost, and we had still tolook forward to inevitable delays. An expedition of the kind we wereabout to undertake cannot be performed in a hurry, especially in Africa. In that continent everything is carried on in a deliberate manner. Theclimate is in itself suggestive of procrastination; and no one who hasthere had to do with officials, even of our own country, until he hashimself felt the enervating influence of the atmosphere, can fail tohave been held in ludicrous suspense between indignation and surprise. 

It must here be mentioned that, associated with me in this expedition, were two Prussian gentlemen, Drs. Barth and Overweg, who had volunteeredto accompany me in my expedition in the character of scientificobservers. 

The political and commercial nature of my Mission by no means excludedsuch auxiliaries. It was desirable that every advantage should be takenof this opportunity to explore Central Africa in every point of view;and when the proposition came to me under the sanction of ChevalierBunsen, and received the approval of her Majesty's Government, I couldnot but be delighted. It was arranged that these gentlemen should travelat the expense and under the protection of Great Britain, and that theirreports should be duly forwarded to the Foreign Office. 

Drs. Barth and Overweg, with European impetuosity, eager at once tograpple with adventure and research, had pushed on whilst I waited forfinal instructions from Lord Palmerston. They had arrived at Tripoliabout twelve days before me, and, as I afterwards learned, had usefullyand pleasantly occupied their time in excursions to the neighbouringmountains, which I had previously visited and examined on my way toGhadamez. 

We learned on landing, that a good deal of the anxiety I had felt onaccount of my slow progress from England had been thrown away. Our arms, instruments, and stores, had not yet arrived from Malta. However, theywere promised for an early date, and the hospitable reception affordedus by Mr. Consul-general Crowe, as well as the knowledge that a vastnumber of small details of preparation could be immediately commenced, contributed to console us. 

Among the things expected, and which arrived in due time, was a boatbuilt by order of the Government in Malta dockyard. It was sent in twosides, and I wished to carry it in that state. But this provedimpossible, and just before starting we were compelled to saw each sideinto two pieces, which were to be carried slung in nets upon a couple ofpowerful camels. This boat was expressly intended for the navigation ofLake Tchad. [1]

 [1] It has since been launched under the British flag, and has proved useful in the examination of the shores of the great lake of Central Africa. --EDITOR. 

It was universally admired at Tripoli; and, as it will be useless tobring it back, will form a most acceptable present for the Sultan ofBornou. I cannot omit to notice, in passing, the courtesy and attentionof the authorities of Malta with whom I have been in communication; theyhave all done their best to forward the objects of the Mission. 

A good deal of the delay that took place at Tripoli arose from causesover which it was impossible to exert any control, and principally fromthe bad weather, which cut off all communication with Malta. We used togo about relating the anecdote of Charles V. Illustrative of theinhospitable seasons of this coast. "Which are the best ports ofBarbary?" inquired the Emperor of the famous Admiral Dorea. "The monthsof June, July, and August, " was the reply. 

Whilst waiting for the winds to waft us so many desirable things, weactively engaged in hiring camels, procuring servants, and otherwisemaking ready for a start. The details of all these preparations, whichcost me prodigious anxiety, as I was obliged to study at the same timeefficiency and economy, are described in a voluminous mass ofcorrespondence; but I should not think of presenting them to the generalpublic, which will be satisfied probably to know that at lengtheverything was found to be in due order, and our long-expected departurewas fixed for the 30th of March. 

I had taken care, immediately on my arrival at Tripoli, to write to Mr. Gagliuffi, the British Consul at Mourzuk, announcing my approach andenclosing a despatch from the Foreign Office. Moreover I had requestedthis gentleman at once to send to Ghât for an escort of Tuaricks, sothat we might not be unnecessarily detained in Fezzan; and to suggestthat the Sheikhs should be assembled by the time we arrived, that thetreaty I had to propose to them might be discussed. My former visit tothis place will in some respects pave the way. Throughout the Turkishprovinces of Tripoli and Fezzan a circular letter given to us by IzhetPasha, and the letters of the Bey of Tunis in other quarters, will nodoubt prove of some assistance, although such documents must lose muchof their influence in the very secluded districts through which we shallbe compelled to pass. After all, we must trust principally to our owntact, to the good will of the natives, and to that vague respect ofEnglish power which is beginning to spread in the Sahara. 

The composition of our caravan will of course fluctuate throughout thewhole line of route; but I may as well mention the most importantpersonages who were to start with me from Tripoli. Setting aside mycolleagues, Barth and Overweg, there was, in the first place, theinterpreter, Yusuf Moknee, a man really of some importance among hispeople, but considering himself with far too extravagant a degree ofrespect. He is the son of the famous Moknee, who was Governor of theprovince of Fezzan during the period of the Karamanly Bashaws. He hassquandered his father's estate in intemperate drinking. Nevertheless Ihave been recommended to take him as a dragoman, and give him a fairtrial, as his only vice really seems to be attachment to the bottle. Isuspect he will not find many opportunities of indulging his propensityin the Sahara; so that, as long as he is _en route_, he may prove to bethat phenomenon, a man without a fault! At any rate I must be contentwith him, especially as he is willing to sign a contract promising to bea pattern of sobriety! There is no one else in Tripoli so suitable formy purpose. He is a handsome, dark-featured fellow, and when in hisbright-blue gown, white burnoose, and elegant fez, makes a reallyrespectable figure. I must dress him up well for state occasions. Evenin the desert one is often judged by the livery of one's servants. 

The individuals next in importance to Moknee are, perhaps, theChaouches, as they are called here--Arab cavaliers, who are to act asjanissaries. There is one big fellow for me, and one little fellow forthe Germans. How they will behave remains to be seen; but I suspect theywill give us some trouble. Then there are a number of free blacks fromTunis, some married, others not, who are to return to their homes inSoudan, Bornou, and Mandara, under our protection. Some of these haveagreed to travel partly on their own account, or nearly so, whilstothers will be paid and act as servants. One of them, named Ali, is afine, dashing young fellow. They are very unimportant people here, butas we advance on our route will no doubt prove of some service, especially when we fairly enter upon the Black Countries. A marabout ofFezzan also accompanies us, and our camel-drivers are from the samecountry. They arrived with a caravan from Mourzuk, and we were some timedetained by the necessity of allowing them and their beasts to restbefore recommencing their march over the very arduous country that liesbetween this and the confines of Fezzan. 

Our progress will necessarily be slow, as all travelling is in thedesert. Camels can rarely exceed three miles an hour, and often make buttwo. We may calculate their average progress at two miles and a half, sothat the reader will be pleased to bear in mind, that when I speak of alaborious day of twelve hours, he must not imagine us to have advancedmore than thirty miles. 

Before commencing the narrative of my journey, it may be as well tointroduce a few observations on the commerce at present carried on withthe interior by way of Tripoli. In addition to the mere acquisition ofgeographical, statistical, and other information, I look upon the greatobject of our mission to be the promotion, by all prudent means, oflegitimate trade. This will be the most effectual way of putting a stopto that frightful system by which all the Central Provinces of Africaare depopulated, and all the littoral regions demoralized. When thenegro races begin to make great profits by exporting the naturalproducts of their country, they will then, and perhaps then only, ceaseto export their brethren as slaves. On this account, therefore, I takegreat interest in whatever has reference to caravan trade. 

There are now four general routes followed by the trading caravans fromthe Barbary coast, leading to four different points of that great beltof populous country that stretches across Central Africa, --viz. ToWadaï, Bornou, Soudan, and Timbuctoo. 

Wadaï sends to the coast at Bengazi a biennial caravan, accompanied by alarge number of slaves. The chief articles of legitimate traffic areelephants' teeth and ostrich feathers. This route is a modernramification of interior trade, and was opened only during the lastcentury. It is calculated that the exports of Bengazi form one-third ofthe whole of those of Tripoli. 

Bornou sends to the coast by way of Fezzan, I am sorry to say, chieflyslaves; but a quantity of ivory is now likewise forwarded by this route. 

Soudan exports slaves, senna, ivory, wax, indigo, skins, &c. &c. Nearlyhalf of the commerce with this important country consists of legitimatearticles of trade and barter. This is very encouraging, and the briefhistory of some of these objects of legal commerce is exceedinglyinteresting. Wax, for example, began to be sent seventeen years ago;elephants' teeth, fifteen; and indigo, only four years ago. 

Timbuctoo now scarcely forwards anything but gold to the coast ofTripoli, together with wax and ivory, but no slaves. The gold is broughtby the merchants in diminutive roughly-made rings, which they oftencarry in dirty little bags, concealed in the breasts of their gowns. 

I am exceedingly glad to learn that the Ghadamsee merchants, whoformerly embarked two-thirds of their capital in the slave-trade, havenow only one-fourth engaged in that manner. This is progress. It hasbeen partly brought about by the closing of the Tunisian slave-mart, partly by the increase of objects of legitimate commerce in the marketsof Soudan. The merchants of Fezzan have still to learn that money may beinvested to more advantage in things than in persons; but theireducation has been undertaken, and however slow the light may be inforcing its way to their eyes, it will reach them at last, there can beno doubt. 

The trade in senna is always considerable. Last year a thousand cantarswere brought, from the country of the Tibboos and from Aheer. The latterplace supplies the best. New objects of exportation may no doubt bediscovered. Already gum-dragon and cassia have been added to the list ofarticles brought from Soudan; and when once treaties of commerce havebeen entered into, and merchants begin to find security in the desertand protection from the native princes, there is no doubt that a verylarge intercourse may be established with the interior countries ofAfrica--an intercourse that will at once prove of immense benefit to usas a manufacturing nation, and advance materially that great object ofall honest men, the abolition of the accursed traffic in human beings. It is the latter object that chiefly occupies my mind, but I shall notattempt to bring it before the native princes in too abrupt a manner. Insome cases, indeed, to allude to it at all would be disastrous. Thepromotion of legitimate traffic must, after all, be our great lever. 

I do not profess in this place to do more than give a few hints on thepresent state of trade in Tripoli, and the vast tract of half-desertcountry on which it leans. What I have said is perhaps sufficient toimpart some idea of the nature of the relations between the Barbarycoast and the interior, and to suggest the importance of the enterpriseon which I am engaged. Briefly, the exportation of slaves to Tripoli andbeyond, in spite of certain changes of route, is as rife as ever, and inthis respect everything remains to be done. But, on the other hand, thetrade which, I trust, is providentially intended to supersede thisinhuman traffic, is on the increase, though slightly. If we can pave theway for the civilising steps of European commerce, either by treaties orby personal influence, we shall have accomplished a great work. Let ushope and pray that the necessary health, strength, and power ofpersuasion be granted to us!

CHAPTER II. 

Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A FamilyQuarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two madFellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--TheCastle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--TurkishTax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the loftyPlain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A SlaveCaravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--DoubleVillage--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A PocketProvince--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character ofFezzanees--A Leopard abroad. 

The preliminary miseries of a great journey being at length over, I roseearly on the morning of the 30th of March and started from the Masheeah, a kind of suburb of Tripoli, distant in the country, at six. Hope andthe spirit of adventure sustained my courage; but it is always sad topart with those we love, even at the call of duty. However, I at lengthmustered strength to bid adieu to my wife--the almost silent adieu ofaffection. How many things that were thought were left unsaid on eitherside! It will be pleasant to fill up all blanks when we talk of thesedays after a safe return from this arduous undertaking. 

It was a fresh, cheerful morning, succeeding several days of sultryweather--an auspicious commencement of the journey. My chaouch, MohammedSouweea, preceded me on his great horse, murmuring some Arab ditty, andI followed hard on my little donkey. The desert assails the walls ofTripoli, and in half an hour we were in the Sahara sands, which here andthere rise in great mounds. I should have liked to have pushed on tosome considerable distance at once; but the habits of the country aredilatory, and one must conform to them. In a couple of hours we came tothe chaouch's tent, where he had a wife, five children, and sevenbrothers, one of whom was blind. He, too, was to go through the sadceremony of parting with his family; and he burst into tears when theysurrounded and embraced him. I am sorry to say, however, that beforethis affecting scene was concluded, a quarrel had began between theblind man and the chaouch's wife, about two Tunisian piastres which weremissing, she accusing him of theft and he indignantly repelling thecharge. These Easterns seem to have minds constructed on differentpatterns from ours, and are apt to introduce such petty discussions atthe most solemn moments; but we must not, therefore, be hasty inconcluding that there is any sham in their sorrow, or affectation intheir pathetic bewailings. 

They brought in a bowl of milk, and as the chaouch still continued tocaress his children, I left him to pass the night in his tent, andpushed on to Wady Majeeneen, where my portion of the caravan had alreadyencamped. Mr. F. Warrington, with my German colleagues, were a little inadvance. The horses of the Pasha's cavalry were feeding around; for whenthe first belt of sand is past, the country becomes an undulatingplain--a prairie, as they would call it in America--covered with patchesof corn herbage. Here and there are fields of barley; and a few Arabtents, with flocks and herds near at hand, give a kind of animation tothe scene. 

Next day (21st) it rained hard; but we went on a little to overtake Drs. Barth and Overweg, whom we found in company with Mr. F. Warrington, Mr. Vice-consul Reade, and Mr. Gaines the American consul. One of Mr. Interpreter Moknee's wives had also come out here, to have somesettlement with her husband about support before she let him go. Thegentleman has two wives, both negresses; and had already made anarrangement for the other, who has several children, of six mahboubs permonth. First come, first served. The second wife, who has two children, only got three mahboubs a month. However, when matters were arranged, the pair became rather more loving. These settlements are always hardmatters to manage, all the world over, and it is pleasant to get rid ofthem. By the way, a son of the worthy Moknee, by a white woman nowdead--a lad of about twelve years of age--accompanies us, at least asfar as Mourzuk. 

The most remarkable persons, however, whom I found at the encampmentwere a couple of insane fellows, determined to follow us--perhaps toshow "by one satiric touch" what kind of madcap enterprise was ours. Thefirst was a Neapolitan, who had dogged me all the while I was atTripoli, pestering me to make a contract with him as servant. To humourhis madness, I never said I would not; and the poor fellow, taking mysilence for consent, had come out asking for his master. They tried tosend him away, but he would take orders from none but me. I gave him twoloaves of bread and a Tunisian piastre, and also made him a profoundbow, politely requesting him to go about his business. He did so in avery dejected manner. During the time he was with the caravan he workedas hard as any one else in his tattered clothes, and, perhaps, he wouldhave been of more use than many a sane person. 

The other was a madman indeed, a Muslim, with an unpleasant habit ofthreatening to cut everybody's throat. Hearing that we were going toSoudan, he followed us, bringing with him a quantity of old metal, principally copper, with which he proposed to trade. He gave himself outas a shereef, or descendant of the Prophet. No sooner had he arrivedthan he begun to quarrel on all sides, and, of course, talked veryfreely of cutting throats, stabbing, shooting, and other humorousthings. Every one was afraid of him. He fawned, however, on usEuropeans, whilst he had a large knife concealed under his clothes readyto strike. They were obliged at length to disarm him, and send him backunder a guard to Tripoli. We here took leave of Mr. Reade, who gave mesome last explanations about letters to the interior. It rainedfuriously in the afternoon. 

We were kept idle a whole day by the rain; but starting on the second, turned off sharp in the afternoon towards the mountains, and encamped atlength in a pretty place fronting the great ascent of Gharian. Theappearance of the chain here differs in no important particular fromthat of any other part of the Tripoline Atlas. The formation iscalcareous, but the colours vary to the eye by the admixture ofminerals. Groups of sandstone are not uncommon. Rounded, rugged heads, vary the outline of the plateau; and here and there are deep, abruptvalleys, cut down through the range, with groves of fig-trees, almonds, aloes, pomegranates, and even grapes, nestling in their laps. Brightwater-courses, springing up in the depths of these ravines, sustain thestreaks of half-buried verdure. 

We rose early to commence the ascent. It is not difficult unless thecamels are very heavily laden; but we did not reach the Castle ofGharian until three in the afternoon. Our caravan dotted with groups ofvarious outline and colour the slopes of the spur, up the side of whichthe track wound, in a very picturesque manner. Sometimes the foremostcamels stood still and complained; and then there was a half-haltthroughout the whole long line. The drivers plied the stick prettyfreely on the gaunt flanks of their beasts; the cry of "_Isa! Isa!_"resounded in irregular chorus; pebbles and stones came leaping down atthe steep parts. As we rose over the brown slopes, the thin forests ofolive-trees partly covering the undulating plateau beyond, with fieldsof barley and wheat here and there, gladdened our eyes, and contrastedwell with the hungry country we had left in the rear. 

The castle, sufficiently picturesque in structure, is placed over a deepravine, but is commanded by the mountain behind. We turned back onnearing it, and beheld the plain we had traversed appearing like the seaenveloped in mist and cloud. In fine weather the minarets of Tripoli canbe seen, but now the northern horizon faded off in haze. On either handthe steep declivities of the hills presented a wall-like surface, hereand there battered into breaches, from out of which burst little tuftsof green, revealing the presence of springs. 

There are 200 troops stationed at the castle under Colonel Saleh, towhom we paid an official visit; as also to the Kaïd of Gharian. In bothcases we were hospitably treated to pipes, coffee, and lemonade. In thiscanton are said to be the fanciful number of "one hundred and one" Arabdistricts, inhabited by the Troglodytes. All the villages, indeed, hereabouts, are underground: not a building is to be seen above, exceptat wide intervals an old miserable, crumbling, Arab fort. The people areeasily kept in order by the summary Turkish method of proceeding; forthey are entirely disarmed, and matchlocks, powder and ball, arecontraband articles. The first word of an Oriental tax-gatherer is"Pay!" and the second is "Kill!"

The outset of a journey in the East is usually employed in finding outthe vices of one's servants. Their virtues, I suppose, become manifestafterwards. We were on the point of sending our chaouch back fromGharian for dishonesty; but as we reflected that any substitute might bestill worse, we passed over the robbery of our barley, and merelydetermined to keep a good look-out. This worthy, though useful in hissphere, often, as I had anticipated, proved a sad annoyance to us. Whenhe seemed to refrain from cheating and stealing, he rendered our livestroublesome by constant quarrellings and rows--he and his fellowattached to my German companions--_Arcades ambo!_

Mr. Frederick Warrington and the American Consul took leave of us on themorning of the 5th. Starting afterwards about nine, we soon left theCastle of Gharian behind, and continued our course in a direction aboutsouth-west, amongst olive-woods and groves of fig-trees. The country wasvaried enough in appearance as we proceeded. Great masses of rock andcultivated slopes alternated. The vegetation seemed all fresh, andsometimes vigorous. Few birds, except wild pigeons, appeared. Many ofthe heights which we passed were crowned with ruined castles, mementoesof the past dominion of the Arabs. We saw some of the Troglodytes comingfrom underground now and then, and pausing to look at us. Their dress isa simple barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them; few indulge inthe luxury of a shirt; and they go armed with a great thick stickterminating in a hook. They look cleanly and healthy in spite of theirburrowing life, but are fox-like in character as in manners, and bear areputation for dishonesty. 

A little after mid-day we descried afar off the village of Kaleebah, which is built above-ground, and occupies a most commanding position ona bold mountain-top. It remained in sight ahead a long time, cheating uswith an appearance of nearness. The inhabitants resemble, in allrespects, their mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly incultivating olives and barley. Government exacts from them twoimposts--one special, of a hundred and fifty mahboubs on theolive-crops; and one general, of five hundred mahboubs. We passed thevillage at length, and encamped an hour beyond. Here were the lastolive-groves which were to cheer our eyes for many a long month--many along year, maybe. Their dark masses covered the swells right and left, and near at hand isolated trees formed pleasant patches of shadow. 

We left our camping-ground at length next day, having overcome theobstinate sluggishness of the blacks, and marched nearly nine hours. Thebarren forms of the desert begin now to appear, the ground being brokenup into huge hills that run mostly in circles, and groups, and broadstony valleys. The formation is limestone, often containing flints, witha little sandstone. Patches of barley here and there splashed this aridsurface with green. At a great distance we saw two or three Arab tents, and one flock of sheep. Towards evening began to appear a number ofbeautiful bushy trees, somewhat resembling our oak in size andappearance. The Arabs call them "Batoum. " They do not seem to have yetreceived their proper botanical classification. Desfontaines describesthe tree as the _Pistacia Atlanticis_. It greatly resembles the_Pistacia lentiscus_ of Linnæus. A few solitary birds, a flight ofcrows, lizards and beetles on the ground; no other signs of life. 

The next day the country became more barren still, and the batoumdisappeared. The patches of barley likewise ceased to cheer the eye; andlittle pools of water no longer sparkled in the rocky bottoms, as nearKaleebah. The geological formation was nearly the same as yesterday; butpieces of crystalline gypsum covered the ground, and the limestone hereand there took the form of alabaster. Some of the hills that close inthe huge basin-like valleys are of considerable elevation, and haveconic volcanic forms. All was dreary, and desolate, and sad, except thatsome ground-larks whirled about; lizards and beetles still kept crossingour path; and a single chameleon did not fade into sand-colour in timeto escape notice. No animals of the chase were seen; but our blackspicked up the dung of the ostrich, and a horn of the aoudad. Here andthere we observed the broken columns of Roman milestones, some of themcovered with illegible inscriptions. The sockets generally remainperfect. We saluted the memory of the sublime road-makers. 

About noon, as we were traversing these solitudes in our usual irregularorder of march, a crowd of moving things came in sight. It proved to bea slave-caravan, entirely composed of young girls. The Gadamseemerchants who owned them recognised me, and shook me by the hand. Ourold black woman was soon surrounded by a troop of the poor slave-girls;and when she related to them how she was returning free to her countryunder the protection of the English, and wished them all the samehappiness, they fell round her weeping and kissing her feet. One poornaked girl had slung at her back a child, with a strange look ofintelligence. I was about to give her a piece of money, but could not;for, the tears bursting to my eyes, I was obliged to turn away. Thesight of these fragments of families stolen away to become drudges orvictims of brutal passion in a foreign land, invariably produced thiseffect upon me. This caravan consisted of some thirty girls and twentycamel-loads of elephants' teeth. They had been seventy days on their wayfrom Ghât, including, however, thirty-four days of rest. Most of thesepoor wretches had performed journeys on their way to bondage which wouldinvest me with imperishable renown as a traveller could I accomplishthem. 

The caravan was soon lost to view as it wound along the track by whichwe had come. This day was exceedingly hot, whereas the previous days hadreminded us of a cool summer in England. The nights have hitherto beenclear, and the zodiacal light is always brilliant. Our blacks keep uppretty well. There are now nine of them; five men, three women, and aboy. They eat barley-meal and oil, and now and then get a cup of coffee. I also feed the Fezzanee marabout, besides those specially attached tothe expedition. As to the camel-drivers, they are an ill-bred, disobliging set, and I give them nothing extra. How different are ournegroes! They are most cheerful. As we proceed, they run hither andthither collecting edible herbs; and, like children, making the way morelong in their sport. Sometimes their amusements are less pleasant, andthey seem systematically to take refuge from _ennui_, in a quarrel. Twoof them began to pelt each other with stones to-day; allies dropped inon either side; laughter was succeeded by execrations; and the wholecaravan at length came to loggerheads. 

The sidr, or lote-tree, is abundant in these parts, and it is curious tonotice how in the spring season the green leaves sprout out all over thewhite burnt-up shrub. All vegetation in the desert that is not perfectlynew seems utterly withered by time. There is scarcely any medium betweenthe bud and the dead leaf. Infancy is scorched at once into old age. 

As we advanced, the country appeared to put on sterner forms, untilsuddenly, in the afternoon, the rocks opened to disclose the WadyEsh-Shrâb nestling amidst limestone hills, and containing the pleasantoasis of Mizdah. Its beauties consist, in reality, but of a few patchesof green barley and scanty palm-groves; but, in contrast to the sultrydesert, the scene appeared really enchanting. 

We have now left the Troglodytes behind us. Mizdah (eight summer and tenwinter days from Ghadamez, three short days from Gharian, and the samefrom Benioleed) is built above-ground, and consists of a double village, or rather two contiguous villages, inhabited by people of the Arab race. Each division is fortified after a fashion, with walls now crumbling, and with round crenulated towers. One large tower, some fifty feet high, has stood, they say, four hundred years. I asked, What was the use ofthese fortifications? and was naïvely told they were for the purposes of_shamatah_, "war, " or rather "rows. " And true enough, before the Turksextended their power so far, these two beggarly villages, fifty milesfrom any neighbours, were in constant hostility one with the other. Eachhad its great tower, a giant among all the little towers--a kind ofkeep, to which the defeated party retired to recruit its strength orescape utter destruction. This is likewise the case with many otherdouble towns of the Sahara, and seems to prove that war is the nativepassion and trade of man. At any rate, punishment for such turbulencehas not been wanting; for in this, as in so many other cases, whilstthese poor wretches were engaged in cutting one another's throats, theconqueror has come and established his tyranny. They are now paying thepenalty of their love of shamatah in the shape of an impost of fourhundred mahboubs per annum, and in numbers are reduced to about ahundred and thirty heads of families. 

We had some additional camel-drivers from Kaleebah, who, of course, endeavoured to extort more than they had agreed for. When we hadsquabbled with them a little, we had the honour of receiving SheikhOmer, of Mizdah, in the tent. He came with about thirty notables of theplace, the greater part of whom sat outside the doorway, whilst hestroked his beard within, indulging in a touch of eau de Cologne and acup of coffee. We read him the circular-letter of Izhet Pasha, andreceived all manner of civilities. The next day, indeed, he came to usto serve as guide through the country over which he wields delegateddominion. He had not far to go. His empire is a mere pocket one. Thepalm-trees are about three hundred in number, and there are buthalf-a-dozen diminutive fields of barley ripening in the ear, fed byirrigation from several wells which supply tolerably sweet water. A fewonion-beds occur in the little gardens, which are partially shaded bysome small trees. 

Sheikh Omer supplied us with copious bowls of milk; the most refreshingthing, after all, that can be drank in the heat of the day. We were, however, impatient to get off, but had to wait for a blacksmith to shoethe horses of our chaouch. The only knowing man in this department wasaway at some neighbouring village, and it was necessary to sendmessengers to find him. There being nothing better to do, the day, accordingly, was spent in quarrelling. We had at least a hundredtongue-skirmishes between our people and the people of Mizdah--betweenour chaouch and the other chaouch--between our chaouch and the sheikh ofthe country--between Yusuf and the Fezzanee--between every individualblack and every other individual black--Between our chaouch particularlyand all the people of Mizdah:--in short, there were as many rows as itwere possible for a logician to find relations betwixt man and man. 

I must not forget that our chaouch, in spite of all this effervescence, had got up this morning in a very pious state of mind. He told us that amarabout had appeared to him in a dream, and had said, "O man! go toSoudan with the Christians, and thou shalt return with the blessing ofGod upon thee!" This vision seemed to have made a deep impression uponhim at the time, but he had forgotten it long before it had ceased to bethe subject of my anxious thoughts--"O God, I beseech thee, indeed, togive us a prosperous journey! But thy will be done. We are entirely inthy hands!"

_April 10th. _--We had another glorious row this morning before starting. A man who had gone to fetch the blacksmith, and found him not, demandedpayment of two Tunisian piastres. The chaouch, suspecting that he neverwent at all, but concealed himself in the village, would not pay him. This brought on a collision. Sheikh Omer supported us; and so all thepeople of the other village took part against us. Two of them werearmed, and some of us thought it advisable to load our pistols. At last, however, we pushed them away from the tent by force; and, in the firstmoment of indignation, wrote a letter to the Pasha about them. Hearingof this, they came to beg us not to send the letter, which wasaccordingly torn up by the Sheikh. My chaouch was the great actor in allthis affair; and it was necessary that I should support him, even if hewere a little wrong, otherwise he would have had no confidence inhimself or us in cases of difficulty. 

The Sheikh, who, as well as ourselves, has lost some little thingsduring these days, gives the people of Mizdah a very bad character. Inthe scuffle, I noticed that they called him _Fezzanee_, which is used asa term of insult in these parts. "All the Fezzanees are bad people, andall their women courtezans, " says my chaouch. 

There is a large leopard reported to be abroad near the oasis of Mizdah. He escaped from Abdel-Galeel, who brought him from Soudan, and createsgreat terror among the camel-drivers. They say, with unspeakable horror, "The nimr eats all the weak camels!" He has already devoured two. Hedrinks in the neighbouring wady, where there is water six months of theyear. During the remainder he is capable, they say, of doing withoutdrinking. 

CHAPTER III. 

Leave Mizdah--Gloomy Country--Matrimonial Squabbles in theCaravan--"Playing at Powder"--Desert Geology--A Roman Mausoleum--Sport--ABully tamed--Fatiguing March--Wady Taghijah--Our old Friend theEthel-Tree--The Waled Bou Seif--Independent Arabs--A splendidMausoleum--One of the Nagahs foals--Division of a Goat--March over amonotonous Country--Valley of Amjam--Two new Trees--Saluting the NewMoon--Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah--Wady Tubooneeah--TravellingFlies--The Desert Hour--A secluded Oasis--Buying Barley--Ghareeah--RomanRemains--Oasian Cultivation--Taxation--Sand-Pillar--Arrangements forcrossing the Hamadah--An _Emeute_ in the Caravan--Are compelled todischarge the quarrelsome Ali. 

We started for Mizdah, at length, towards noon, Sheikh Omer bringing usa little on our way, and, begging to be well spoken of in high quarters;and after passing the ruins of two Arab castles that frown over thesouthern side of Wady Esh-Shrâb, got into a gloomy country, exactlyresembling that on the other side of the oasis, except that the strataof the limestone rocks, instead of being horizontal are inclined. Thewhole desert, however, wears a more arid appearance. Yet there were somelote-trees here and there, and a few tholukhs. The, traces of the aoudadwere noticed; and the blacks, picking up its dung, smelt it as musk, saying, "It is very good. " As I jogged on upon my camel, the oppressiveheat caused me to sleep and dream in the saddle of things that had nowbecome the province of memory. 

More quarrels! The chaouches are boiling over again; they must fight itout between them. No doubt they are both correct in exchanging theepithet of "thief. " Scarcely has the grumbling of these two terriblefellows died away, when the blacks are at it amongst themselves. He whohas two wives gets hold of his blunderbuss, and threatens to blowhimself to pieces. Nobody interferes; there is little public spirit in acaravan: so he consents to an explanation, saying sententiously, "Mylittle wife is mad. " The fact is, his two helpmates, one young and oneold, are vastly too much for him, as they would be for most men. Hemoves along in a perpetual family tornado. The mother of the young one, a sort of derwish negress, is a tremendous old intriguer, and stirs upat least one feud a day. Quarrelling is meat and drink to her. 

It would have been out of character had not Ali got up a littleconvulsion on his own account. One day, in the Targhee's absence, hetook his gun to "play at powder, " and using English material, succeededin splitting the machine near the lock. When the Targhee returned, andfound what damage had been done, he began first to whimper, and thenworking himself up into a towering passion, swore he would shoot theculprit. Scarcely with that weapon, O Targhee! When his excitement wasover, I offered to make a collection among the people to indemnify him;but he shook his head, laughed, and refused. The gun was nearly all hisproperty, and he had just bought it new at Tripoli. [2]

 [2] The Orientals are prevented by superstitious fear from allowing any article destroyed by accident to be replaced in the way mentioned. --Ed. 

All this part of Northern Africa may be compared to an archipelago, withseas of various breadths dividing the islands. Three days took us fromTripoli to Gharian, and three more to Mizdah. We were now advancingacross the preliminary desert stretching in front of the great plateauof the Hamadah, which defends, like a wall of desolation, the approachesof Fezzan from the north. At first occur broken limestone hills, asprevious to Mizdah; but when we approach the plateau the aspect of thehills changes, and they are composed chiefly of variegated marl mixedwith gypsum, and with a covering of limestone. Fossil shells were pickedup at intervals. Some huge, irregular masses, that appeared ahead duringthe first day, were mistaken by us for the edge of the plateau; but webroke through, and left them right and left as we proceeded. They aregreat masses of limestone and red clay, in which are scooped deepvalleys, many of them supplied with abundant herbage. As yet we havenever attained a level of more than 2500 feet above the level of thesea. Water must exist underground, if we may argue from the presence ofthe aoudad and the gazelle. Indeed, out of the line of route, amongstthe hills, there are wells and Arab tents. The presence of Roman remainsreminds us that the country has seen more prosperous times. We encampedon the 11th in a wady, overlooked by the ruins of a mausoleum, which hadassumed colossal proportions in the distance. Some Berber letters werecarved upon its walls; probably by Tuaricks, who had formerly inhabitedthe district. 

One of our blacks this day killed a lêfa, the most dangerous species ofsnake; and several thobs or lizards were caught. The greyhound of theFezzanee also ran down a hare. Next day it procured us a gazelle; butwith these exceptions were seen only ground-larks, and what we call inLincolnshire water-wagtails. 

It is worth mentioning that at this place our chaouch sprained hisankle, and Dr. Overweg applied spirits of camphor as lotion. Thisterrible fellow, this huge swaggerer, this eater-up of ordinary timidmortals, was reduced to the meekness of a lamb by his slight accident;and for the first time since the caravan was blessed with his presencedid he remain tranquil, breathing out from time to time a softcomplaint. In the course of the day he had contrived to make himselfparticularly disagreeable. First he fell out with the servant of theGermans, Mahommed of Tunis. Then he quarrelled with us all, because hepicked up a blanket for somebody and was refused his modest demand ofthree piastres as a reward. We are heartily glad that he is tamed forawhile. 

On the 12th, shortly after we started, I happened to look behind andsaw, coming from the west, some clouds that seemed to give promise ofrain. Already I felt the air cooled by anticipation, but was soonundeceived. In the course of an hour a gheblee began to blow, andcontinued to increase in violence until it enervated the whole caravan. Our poor black women began to drop with fatigue, and we were compelledto place them on the camels. Here was a foretaste of the desert, itshardships and its terrors! The air was full of haze, through which wecould scarcely see the flagging camels, with their huge burdens; and themen, as they crawled along, were apparently ready to sink on the groundin despair. We breathed the hot atmosphere with difficulty anddispleasure. 

Right glad were we then, at length, to reach the Wady Taghijah, where Iat once recognised my old desert friend, under whose spreading and heavyboughs I once had passed a night alone in the Sahara, --the ethel-tree!It is a species of _Pinus_, growing chiefly in valleys of red clay onthe top of mounds, which are sometimes overshadowed by a gigantic tree, with arms measuring four feet in circumference. Of its wood are made theroofs of houses, the frames of camel-saddles, and bowls for holding milkand other food. With the berries and a mixture of oil the people preparetheir water-skins, as well as tan leather. The valley is strewed withhuge branches, cut down for the purpose of extracting resin. The etheland the batoum are the most interesting of desert-trees, and I shallregret to exchange them for the tholukh. I wrote down the names offourteen shrubs found in the valley of Taghijah: two of them, the sidrand the katuf, are edible by man; the rest, with the exception of the_hijatajel_, afford food for the camels. 

In this valley, amongst the trees, we found the flocks and horses of theWaled Bou Seif feeding. This tribe--the children of the Father of theSword--are wandering Arabs, who have never acknowledged the authority ofthe Tripoli Government. They possess flocks, camels, and horses, --everyelement, in fact, of desert wealth. All the mountains near and roundabout Mizdah are claimed by them as their country, which has never, perhaps, been reduced by any power but the Roman. A young man of thetribe, who was tending some sheep in the valley, came to visit us. Hewas a fine, cheerful fellow, with an open countenance, well dressed, having, besides his barracan, red leather boots, trousers, and a shirt. All his tribe, according to his account, are so dressed. He boasted ofthe independence of his people, who number three thousand strong, andextend their influence as far south as Ghareeah. The name of the tribeis derived, he tells us, from a great warrior who once lived, and wasnamed by the people Bou Seif, because he always carried a sword. 

Our chaouch gave us an account of this young man in the followingstrain:--"He is in very deed a marabout! His wife never unveiled herface to any man; and his own mother kisses his hand. He is master ofwealth, and never leaves this valley. He has a house and flocks ofsheep, and a hundred camels, which always rest in the valley, bringingforth young, and are never allowed to go into the caravans, " &c. &c. 

We were detained during the whole of the 13th, because the water was ata distance and our people had to fetch it. There were marks of recentrain in the valley, but there is no well; only a few muddy puddles. Dr. Barth, in wandering about, discovered here a splendid mausoleum, ofwhich he brought back a sketch. It was fifty feet high, ofRoman-Christian architecture, --say of the fourth or fifth century. Nodoubt, remains of cities and forts will be discovered in thesedistricts. Such tombs as these indicate the presence in old time of alarge and opulent population. 

One of the nagahs foaled this day, which partly accounts for ourdetention. For some time afterwards the cries of the little camel forits mother, gone to feed, distressed us, and called to our mind the lifeof toil and pain that was before the little delicate, ungainly thing. Itis worth noticing, that the foal of the camel is frolicsome only for afew days after its birth--soon becoming sombre in aspect and solemn ingait. As if to prepare it betimes for the rough buffeting of the world, the nagah never licks or caresses its young, but spreads its legs tolower the teat to the eager lips, and stares at the horizon, orcontinues to browse. 

Our people clubbed together and bought a goat for a mahboub. They thendivided it into five lots, and an equal number of thongs was selected bythe five part-owners of the meat; these were given to a stranger notconcerned in the division, and he arbitrarily placed one upon eachpiece, from which decision there was no appeal. 

On the 14th we rose before daybreak, and were soon in motion. No changewas noticed in the country, limestone rocks and broad valleys running inall directions. The ground is sometimes scattered with fossil shells, some of the _exogyra_, others of the oyster species; all flints. Therewere apparent traces of the hyæna, but of no other wild animals. Somesheep were at graze; and the long stubble of last year's crop of barley, in irregular patches, told us that when there is copious rain the Arabscome to these parts for agricultural purposes. We noticed the Englishhedge-thorn here and there, and thought of the green lanes of our nativeland. 

Nine hours' journey brought us to the valley of Amjam, where there was akhafilah of senna encamped among the trees. Water--rather bitter, however--may be found here in shallow excavations; and the whole place, with its patches of herbage, is highly refreshing to the eye. 

There are two new trees in this wady, both interesting; the _Ghurdok_and the _Ajdaree_. The _ghurdok_, on which the camels browse, is a largebush with great thorns, and bears a red berry about the size of our hip, or, as the marabout says, of sheep's dung. People eat these berries andfind them good, with a saltish, bitter taste, and yet a dash ofsweetness. The _ajdaree_ is also a thorny bush, and at a distancesomething reminds one of the English hedge-thorn. On a nearer approachthe leaves are found to be oval and filbert-shaped. The berry, called_thomakh_, is nearly as large as haws, but flatted at the sides: it isused medicinally, being a powerful astringent in diarrhoea. 

When the moon was two days old our people practised a little of theancient Sabæanism of the Arabs--saluting it by kissing their hands, andoffering a short prayer. 

On the 15th we at length sighted the edge of the plateau of the Hamadah;and pushing on still through desert hills and valleys, arrived at WadyTabooneeah, having been _en route_ four days from Mizdah. This valley isnot so fertile as Amjam; and the water is more bitter. Common salt, thecompanion of gypsum, was observed to-day; and wherever this is foundthere are bitter salts. Swallows were skimming over the shrubs, andbirds of prey hovered about, now lying-to, as it were, overhead, withbeak and talons visible, now circling upwards until they became merespecks. Lizards and beetles abounded as usual; but the only plagues ofthe place were the flies, which had followed the camels from Gharian, and even from Tripoli. Men usually carry their "black cares" along withthem in this way. 

As we could not expect to commence the traject of the dreaded plateauimmediately, I resolved to go upon a visit to the village of WesternGhareeah. The camel-drivers of the caravan, of course, told us that itwas at the distance of one hour--_Saha bas!_ but we found it to be threehours in a north-east direction. Time is of little consequence in thedesert, and no means are possessed or desired of measuring it withexactitude. It has already been observed by a traveller, that theBedawin will describe as _near_ an object a hundred yards off, or a welltwo days' journey from you. Western Ghareeah was likewise described as_grayeb_, but we thought for some time that we had ventured upon aninterminable desert. However, the ground at length dipped, and a greenwady disclosed itself. We could scarcely, at first, find anybody toreceive us. But after waiting some time, the people came unwillinglycrawling out one after the other. We told them our errand--"To look atthe country and buy barley. " They swore they had none--not a grain; butwhen we swore in our turn that we would pay them for what we wanted, they admitted having a little that belonged to some people in Fezzan. Iwas amused with the eloquent indignation of our burly chaouch when theyprofessed complete destitution at first. "You dogs! do you live onstones?" cried he. This was a settler; and showed them that they hadknowing ones to deal with. Of course their original shyness arose fromfear lest we might rob them. When a bargain was struck they became quitefriendly, and brought us out some oil, barley-cakes, and boiledeggs--all the luxuries of the oasis!

Ghareeah Gharbeeah stands on the brow of a limestone rock, on thewestern side of a valley, which we had to cross in approaching betweendate plantations and a few fields of barley. It was an ancient Romancity; and there remains still an almost perfect bas-relief of a Victoriaon one side of the eastern gateway, which is composed of limestoneblocks a foot and a half square. We could trace also the imperfectletters of a Latin inscription, together with some Berber characters. The houses of the present inhabitants are formed of rough blocks oflimestone mixed with mud, and roofed with palm-trunks and palm-trees. The water resembles that of the well of Tabooneeah, coming "from thesame rock, " as the people say: it is slightly bitter and saltish. 

With the exception of the little valley we had crossed, nothing could beseen from Ghareeah but a dreary waste, especially to the south and east. A tower of modern date rises to the east, on a solitary rock; and weknew that Eastern Ghareeah was concealed among the hills at a distanceof six hours. The inhabitants of these secluded towns are calledWaringab, and promise shortly to become extinct. In this WesternGhareeah there are twenty heads of families, but very fewchildren, --scarce sixty souls altogether; and the population of theother place, which gives itself airs of metropolitan importance, is notmore than double. How they have not abandoned the place long ago tojackals and hawks is a mystery. They do not possess a single camel; onlytwo or three asses and some flocks of sheep; and depend, in a greatmeasure, on chance profits from caravans, for their valley often onlyaffords provision for a couple of months or so. At intervals, it istrue, when there has been much rain, they sell barley in theneighbouring valleys; but this season has been a dry one, and the crophas consequently fallen short. When they have no barley, they say, theyeat dates; and when the dates are out, they fast--a long, continualfast--and famine takes them off one by one. The melancholy remnantpreserve traditions of prosperity in comparatively recent times. Notwithstanding their miserable condition, however, these wretchedpeople are drained by taxation of thirty mahboubs per annum--so manydrops of blood! The eastern village pays in proportion. Possibly in afew years this cluster of wadys may be abandoned to chance Arabvisitors, so that the starting-point for the traverse of the Hamadahwill be removed farther back, perhaps to Mizdah. There is no life in thecivilisation which claims lordship over these countries unfriended bynature. The only object of those who wield paramount authority over themseems to be to extract money in the most vexatious and expeditiousmanner. 

I purchased of the people of Ghareeah a greyhound bitch for fourTunisian piastres, so that we may now expect some hares and gazelles. Inreturning to the encampment I observed the phenomenon of a column ofdust carried into the heavens in a spiral form by the wind, whilst allaround was perfectly calm. Such columns are not of so frequentoccurrence in the desert as is imagined, but from time to time, as inthis instance, are seen. 

The evening was spent in making arrangements with Dr. Barth and Dr. Overweg, who had agreed to traverse the Hamadah by day, whilst I was tofollow by night, with the blacks. Next morning, accordingly, the caravanseparated into two portions, and my companions rode slowly away over theburning desert. 

This important day could not be allowed to pass by my people without atremendous quarrel. Our blacks seemed to be in a peculiarly excitablestate. Ali, especially, who has distinguished himself for several daysin the obstreperous line, has had a regular turn-to with hisfather-in-law; and not satisfied with this, nearly strangled Moknee'sson. The Mandara black threw himself on the ground and calledout, --"Load my pistol, O Chaouch; I must shoot this reprobate Ali!"

This fellow is a pest in the caravan, and I have been obliged to sendhim off and insist on his return to Tripoli. He may be brought to hissenses in this way. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Commence crossing the Hamadah--Last Pillar of the Romans--Travelling inthe Desert--Rapid March--Merry Blacks--Dawn--Temperature--Alireturns--Day-travelling--Night-feelings--Animals--Graves ofChildren--Mirage--Extent of the Plateau--It breaks up--Valley ofEl-Hasee--Farewell to the Hamadah--Arduous Journey--TheCamel-drivers--New Country--Moral and religious Disquisitions--TheChaouches--Reach Edree--Abd-el-Galeel--Description of Edree--SubterraneanDwellings--Playing at Powder--The Kaïd--Arabic Literature--Desertion ofthe Zintanah--Leave Edree--Sandy Desert--Bou Keta the Camel-driver--WadyEl-Makmak--The Lizard--Reach Wady Takadafah--Sand--Another _Embroglio_. 

The sun was setting as our caravan, which we had collected in as compacta body as possible, got under way, and rising out of the valley ofTabooneeah, began to enter upon the plateau. It is difficult to conveyan idea of the solemn impressions with which one enters upon such ajourney. Everything ahead is unknown and invested with perhapsexaggerated terrors by imagination and report. The name of Desert--thewaterless Desert--hangs over the horizon, and suggests the most gloomyapprehensions. Behind, in the fading light, the trees of the valleystill show their dim groups; before, the lofty level, slightly broken byundulations, stretches away. There was one cheering thought, however. Mycompanions had by this time set up their tent for the night; andalthough, creeping along at the camel's slow pace, we could not expectto come up to that temporary home until it was about to be deserted, still the knowledge of its existence took away much of the mysteriousterror with which I entered upon this desolate region in the hour ofcoming shadows. An additional solemnity was imparted to the commencementof this arduous journey by the fact that we now passed the last pillarerected by the Romans. Their mighty power seems to have recoiled, aswell it might, before the horrid aspect of the Hamadah. 

We pushed on at a steady pace over the rough ground; and as I surveyedthe scene from my elevated position on the camel's back, I could nothelp contrasting this primitive style of travelling with that with whichI had been conversant a few months before. Instead of whirling along thesummit of an embankment, or through a horizontal well miles deep, in amachine that always reminded me of a disjointed dragon, at the rate ofsome fifty miles an hour, here I was leisurely swaying to and fro on theback of the slowest beast that man has ever tamed, in the midst of acrowd loosely scattered over the country, some on foot, some in thesaddle--not seeking to keep any determinate track, but following ageneral direction by the light of the stars, which shine with warmbeneficence overhead. There is no sound to attract the ear, save themeasured tread of the caravan, the occasional "_Isa! Isa!_" of thedrivers, the hasty wrench with which our camels snatch a mouthful ofsome ligneous plant that clings to the stony soil, the creaking of thebaggage, or the whistling of the wind that comes moaning over thedesert. These are truly moments in a man's life to remember; and I shallever look back to that solemn night-march over the desert, which my penfails to describe, with sentiments of pleasurable awe. 

This night we moved at comparatively a rapid pace--nearly three miles anhour; for there was scarcely any temptation to the camels to linger forbrowsing purposes, and the drivers seemed desperately anxious to getover as much ground as possible at once. At first all went well enough;and now and then even, the blacks, who were on foot, braved the Hamadahwith a lively ditty--celebrating some Lucy Long of Central Africa. Butby degrees these merry sounds ceased to be heard; and the hastily-movingcrowd of the caravan insensibly stretched out into a longer line. Thepoor women were beginning to knock up, and several fell at times frommere exhaustion. We proceeded, however, without stopping, for elevenhours, and after a long, dreary night indeed, halted at five in themorning, having reached the encampment of our German friends. 

The dawn soon lighted up the waste, and enabled us to see that it was alevel plain of hard red earth, scattered over with pebbles and loosepieces of limestone mixed with flint. 

The Hamadah was very cold in the night, the wind being from the north. Dr. Overweg does not think that the plateau is more than fifteen hundredfeet above the level of the sea; but it may be two thousand, and alittle more in some places. By day it is hot enough; and as there islittle to be observed on these vast, elevated stretches of stony desert, I thought it best to continue my original plan for three whole nights. 

To spare one's self is the great secret of Saharan travelling; and thereis, after all, not much to observe in this desolate region. 

I should mention, that the second night Ali came up in a penitent statealong with a khafilah from Ghareeah, and so our poor black women had anopportunity of getting a lift on the spare camels. We could, therefore, go on until morning without fear of losing any of our party in thenight. The position of a person who falls behind a caravan in the desertvery much resembles that of a man overboard. This khafilah preceded usto Shaty. 

After the third night I found the weather so cool and temperate, that Icontinued on the whole of the day; and the Germans joining me in theevening, we did not again separate. It was towards the close of thethird night that we were assailed by an awful tempest of wind, rain, andlightning, which flashed upon us occasionally through the thickdarkness. The Germans, who were encamped, had their tents carried away, whilst we who were in motion found ourselves compelled to stop andcrouch under the bellies of our camels until the morning broke, and thehurricane had spent its force. The cold was intense, and our peoplecomplained bitterly. More than once, indeed, the thermometer was down tofreezing-point whilst we were traversing the plateau; and one morningthe desert was covered with a shining frost. 

Although we became accustomed to the desolate appearance of thisdistrict by degrees, we counted eagerly the days and hours that broughtus nearer the confines of Fezzan. Every night's incidents were the same. On we went, nodding drowsily on our camels, sometimes dropping off intoa sound sleep, variegated by a snatch of pleasant dreams. But theseindulgences are dangerous. I was more than once on the point of fallingoff. By day, few objects of interest presented themselves: linnets andfinches fluttered here and there upon the rare bushes, whilst swallowsjoined the caravan, and skimmed round and round for hours among thecamels, almost brushing the faces of the drivers. Lizards glanced andsnakes writhed across the path. We started three wadan or mouflon, churlish animals, fond of such solitudes. As to the birds, our peoplesay they do not drink in winter, and in summer leave the Hamadahaltogether. Four-fifths of the surface were utterly barren. Littlemounds marked the graves of children, slaves who had perished on the wayfrom inner Africa. The mirage was common, but rarely pretty. Sometimesridges of low mountains seemed raised on the level plain, probablyreflected from the cliffs that edge the plateau. The scattered herbagealso assumed regular forms--squares, ovals, circles. Now and then itseemed as if vast ruins were ahead, but as we drew nigh these dwindledinto little desert-mosques, formed of half-circles of stones, now turnedto the east, now to the west. Here the faithful who may be obliged totraverse these dreary regions stop to offer up their simple prayer tothe Almighty Allah, to whom, they say, the dreadful Hamadah belongs. 

The extent of this plateau from north to south, varying in our routefrom S. E. To S. W. , is about 156 miles, or six long and seven short days'journey. Sometimes our camels went at the pace of three miles, butnearly always of two and a-half miles in the hour. It is almostimpossible to make the traverse in less than fifty-six or sixty hours. The camels may continue on night and day, but it will always require somuch time to make the weary journey, which is considered the greatestexploit of Saharan travelling in this portion of Northern Africa. 

On the road to Tuat from Algeria, or to Ghadamez from Tunis and Tripoli, or to Fezzan from Bonjem or Benioleed, there is no traverse of six dayscomparable in difficulty to that which we have just accomplished. Thereis said to be none other like it on the road to Soudan, except atremendous desert between Ghât and Aheer. However, we must not troubleourselves about this as yet. 

As for the Hamadah, we know that near Sokna the plateau breaks up andforms what are called the Jebel-es-Soudy, or Black Mountains, a mostpicturesque group of cliffs; and again on the route to Egypt fromMourzuk, six days' journey south-east from Sokna, it also breaks intohuge cliffs, and bears the name of El-Harouj. These mountain buttressesare either the bounds of the Hamadah, or masses of rock where it breaksinto hills, forming ravines or valleys. But, in fact, how far theHamadah extends between Ghadamez on the west and Augila on the east isnot yet properly ascertained. It seems to be like a broad beltintercepting the progress of commerce, civilisation, and conquest, fromthe shores of the Mediterranean to Central Africa. The kingdom ofFezzan, however, advances like a promontory beyond it; and then on everyside stretches the desert ocean with its innumerable oases or islands, which, from being once mere fluctuating names, as it were, on a guessmap, are now by degrees dropping one by one into their right places. 

On the breaking-up of the plateau we observed its geological structureto consist of three principal strata: first, a covering or upper crust, limestone with flints and red earth; then masses of marl; and thensandstone, lumps and masses of which were blackened by the contact ofthe air with the iron they contain. Under the sandstone was likewise abed of yellow clay, with a mixture of gypsum. 

The face of the cliffs of the plateau was blackened as with the smoke ofa huge furnace, which gave a majestic and yet gloomy appearance to thescene as we descended the pass towards the valley of El-Hasee. We foundthe plain strewed with great masses of dark sandstone, seeming to havebeen detached by some convulsion from the rocky walls, which now rose inapparently interminable grandeur behind us. We glanced back in awe, andyet in some triumph, towards the iron-bound desert we had thus safelytraversed; but our eyes soon turned from so bleak a prospect, when webeheld, dotting the sandy wady, clumps of the wild palm, green copses, and the majestic ethel-tree. 

It was about two in the afternoon when we reached the camping-ground, all our people shouting, "_Be-Selameh el Hamadah!_" Farewell to theHamadah! I cried out the same words in a joyful voice; for, although nowthat the dangers of the plateau were overcome they seemed diminished inmy eyes, yet I felt that we had escaped from a most trying march withwonderful good fortune. It is difficult to convey an idea of the horrorand desolation of so vast a tract of waterless and uninhabited country. They alone who have breathed the sharp air of its blank nakedness canappreciate it, or understand how any accidental delay, sickness, thebursting of the water-skins, the straying of the camels, might produceincalculable sufferings, and even death. "_Be-Selameh el Hamadah!_"then, with all my heart. "_Be-Selameh! be-Selameh!_" again rings throughthe caravan, as we reach at length our camping-ground, and throwourselves at full-length under the pleasing shade. Even thecamel-drivers were so fatigued, that they stretched out as soon as thecommand to halt was given, and let their animals stray at will, withouttaking the trouble to unload them. I had observed the same supinenessduring our halts all through this trying district, which seems tooppress their imaginations as well as prostrate their bodies. Severaltimes I had been obliged myself to collect wood and make a fire to rallyour lagging servants. Indeed, on more than one occasion I was compelledto exert my personal authority. On the third night, particularly, Iwished all the people to rest one hour. The camel-drivers resisted thisreasonable request, and were backed by Yusuf. When it became a questionbetween myself and my interpreter, I jumped off my camel and stopped thecaravan. The chaouch supported me, and in this case at least behavedvery well. If we had continued all night, we should have made a march ofsixteen hours, --too much for the blacks, and indeed for any man on hisfeet. 

On the whole, however, I have to observe, that as we approach Fezzan ourcamel-drivers are getting more civil and obliging. Is this the genialeffect of native air, or expectation of a present? They have notmentioned the latter subject yet, but, on the contrary, promise me somedates. 

The broad valley of El-Hasee is sandy, like all those of Fezzan. It isbounded on the north by the perpendicular buttresses of the Hamadah, andon the south by sandy swells. The well is not copious, but affords aregular supply of slightly brackish water. The people descend to thebottom, thirty or forty feet, and fill their gerbahs. The blacks arevery troublesome, and require a good deal of patience. This morning theywould not fetch water from this well, although quite close by the tent. I was obliged to threaten to leave them before I could get them to move. They are, probably, a little broken down by the fatigue of the Hamadah. 

We passed through Wady El-Hasee on the 24th, and after mid-day began toascend, and continued to do so until we pitched tent at half-past four, at a place called Esfar. This is also a species of plateau, but consistsof sand-hills, sandstone rocks, and shallow valleys filled with herbageand shrubs. I was glad to get rid of the eternal limestone and have achange of the sandstone. 

On the 25th we started early, and had a cool temperature all day. Ourchaouch went out, and by the assistance of the greyhound bitch broughtin a young gazelle. For about three hours the camels had herbage; butafterwards came a desert more horrible even than the Hamadah. Itconsists of sandstone rocks, and valleys covered with pebbles and looseblocks. Some of the rocks are perfectly black, and would be consideredby an European geologist, on a distant view, as basalt. Until half-pastfour in the afternoon we did not see a blade of grass, a sprig ofvegetation, or living thing of any description; but at thecamping-ground was a thin scattering of herbage, near the foot of theblack mountain called Solaou Mârrafa. 

We have sometimes moral disquisitions among our people. This day we hada dispute on religion. The Zintanah, a real orthodox Musulman, maintained a strict distinction between the believers and unbelievers, giving heaven to the former and hell to the latter. Yusuf and severalmore tolerant gentlemen held out hope of mercy to us all, as God was"the Compassionate and the Merciful. " The chaouch also lectured thepeople on courage, and publicly maintained that the Fezzanees were allcowards. This fellow is a second Sir John Falstaff, without thecorpulence. The tone of all members of the caravan, as I have mentioned, is now much humanised. Every one is more civil to us, and, by habit, toone another. However, the chaouches must, of course, get up a quarrelnow and then: they do it between themselves; but, as a sign that theylikewise are a little civilised, have only had two regular explosionsto-day. Probably these worthies, who remind me of a bull-dog and aterrier, find particular pleasure in this form of social intercourse;for I always observe, that they are on more friendly terms than everafter they have almost come to beard-pulling. 

I interfere as little as possible in all these quarrels, but now andthen it is difficult to hold aloof. This morning, for example, the blackwho has two wives, took it into his head to beat one of them in public. I called upon him to desist, upon which he went to work harder thanever; so that I was compelled to break a stick over his shoulders toreduce him to quietness. These little caravan incidents were often theonly ones that diversified our day. 

On the 26th, after a march of ten hours, with cool weather at first, butsuffocating heat afterwards, we reached Edree, a town of El-Shaty, in astate of great exhaustion. During the latter part of the march, however, we had been cheered by the sight of the town, which stands on a smallmound of yellow clay and rock. The whitewashed marabout of Bou Darbalahgleamed a little distance in front of the place, which in itself is nowa heap of ruins, having been destroyed by Abd-el-Galeel, on account ofthe resistance of the inhabitants to his usurped authority. He also, with a cruelty rarely practised in Saharan warfare, cut down above athousand palms; thus rendering it impossible for the place to recoverrapidly from its disasters. Previously there had been a hundred andtwenty heads of families; now there are only twenty-five, and these arestill diminishing it is said. However, many little children are now inthe streets, naked, and covered with filth. 

These few inhabitants are a mixed race, some being as fair as those onthe coast, whilst others are as black as the darkest negroes of CentralAfrica. The Sheikh and two or three patriarchs of the village werepolite and hospitable, and showed every disposition to comply with theorders sent by the Pasha of Mourzuk to supply us with fresh provisionswithout payment. I accepted a sheep and two fowls; but the dates for ourblacks I paid for, and added a few presents. 

The valley of Edree is very shallow, and this portion of it is mostlycovered with bushes of wild palm and with coarse herbage; it looks greenand grateful amidst the surrounding aridity. There are still remainingmany fruit-bearing date-trees--about seven thousand, scattered at greatdistances. The water is good, although the surface of the valley is inparts covered with a whitish crust of salt. Some large springs arecontinually overflowing with bubbles of gas, like the great well ofGhadamez. 

In the garden-fields of Edree are cultivated wheat and barley, theformer white and of the finest quality. A good deal of grain has alreadybeen got in this year. With industry, and a few more animals to draw thewater for irrigation, a great quantity of wheat might be grown in thisoasis. The gardens contain also a few figs and grapes. Doves werefluttering in the branches of the palms, and swallows darting throughtheir waving foliage. There were thousands of native flies here, besidesthose that had come with us. When we complained, we were answered, "Thisis a country of dates!"

Shaty has eighteen districts, some very limited, but having date-palms, and paying contributions to Mourzuk. Edree, itself, is drained of fourhundred mahboubs per annum. 

_27th. _--I rose at sunrise and went to see the ancient dwellings ofEdree, where the people lived underground: they are excavations out ofthe rock, some fifty yards from the surface beneath the modern town. Theentrances are choked with sand, and they are not entered by the people, who say "They are the abodes of serpents. " At present, there is nothingremarkable about them. Probably they were originally natural caves, which were enlarged and arranged as dwellings. 

On returning to the encampment, I found that the Kaïd, or commander ofthe troops of the Shaty district, had arrived with some Arab cavaliers:he has in all thirty horsemen. Our visitors offered to "play powder" inorder to do us honour; but were compelled to beg us to supply theammunition. It was a very animating scene, after the dreary journey overthe Fezzanee deserts. A dozen mounted cavaliers dashed to and fro, shaking the earth, scouting and firing from time to time. Everybodyenjoyed it; even the half-naked, dirty, brown-black ladies of the town, stopped with their water-jugs, and looked on with satisfaction. The Kaïdwas the best man of his men; but Yusuf afterwards dressed and beat thevictor, riding with great dexterity, and attracting the spontaneousapplause of all the spectators. The Kaïd trembled whilst contending withYusuf, who was set down as a marabout in consequence by our chaouch. 

I gave the Kaïd, who was a mild and respectful man, a handkerchief, alittle bit of writing-paper, and some soap, and sent him off to hisstation, whence he had come on purpose to visit us. Three handkerchiefsformed also an appropriate present to the Sheikhs of Edree. 

Yusuf has been reading an Arabic book, which I at first thought was somecommentary on the Koran; but to-day I was undeceived. He related what heread; it reminded me of Gulliver's Travels. A tall man walks through thesea, cooks fish in the sun, and destroys a whole town, whose inhabitantshad insulted him, by the same means that our comparative giant saved thepalace of Lilliput from conflagration. 

This evening it was announced as an event that the Zintanah, a servantof the Germans, was going to Tripoli, having resolved to return home. Some said one thing about him, some another; but most, "He's afraid ofthe fever of Mourzuk. " The fellow came afterwards to me, asking forletters to Tripoli. I told him to go about his business; that he was aman of words and had no heart, otherwise he would continue with us toMourzuk. I wished to discourage such acts of desertion, for they producealways a bad effect. My German companions seemed glad to get rid of him. 

We started again on Sunday morning (the 28th). This was our first day ofsand. We had almost forgotten that there was such a thing as sand in thedesert; but we shall have two days more of the same kind of travelling, to keep us in mind of this unpleasant truth. However, we were gladenough to leave Edree. Our marabout, comparing this place with El-Wady, for which we are now journeying, says, "Edree is like a jackass; El-Wadyis like a camel!" Yusuf calls Edree "the city of camel-bugs. " Thesevermin are the leeches of the camels. During the morning we passed twoor three forests of palms, and afterwards traversed a flat valley, wherewas a little herbage. The people said; "There is no tareek (track): thetareek is in our heads. " Bou Keta noted the route in many parts by thepresence of camels' dung; but the shape of the sand-hills in these partsseems to be perfectly familiar to these men. We saw one or two lizards, but no birds or other signs of life, except two brown-black Fezzanees, trudging over the desert. 

At four in the afternoon, after a day of hot wind, we encamped in WadyGuber, where there is water two or three feet below the surface; and asmall forest of palms belonging to our camel-drivers, having descendedto them in small groups from their grandfathers. 

Next day (29th) we again went on over the sand, which extends beyondGhadamez and Souf, to the west, and even to Egypt on the east. It is metat different points by the khafilahs, and crossed in different numbersof days. We found it very hard work to cross it, and understood why, inthese parts, the words _raml_, sand, and _war_, difficult, have becomeconvertible terms. Bou Keta had considerable trouble in keeping to theroute, being reduced to depend chiefly on the camels' dung, which rollsabout the surface of the sand. Here and there was a patch of coarseherbage, scattered like black spots on the bright, white surface. Everyobject was very much magnified at a little distance; I saw what seemedto me to be a horse on the top of one of the hills, but on drawing nearit proved to be our own greyhound bitch smelling the hot air. 

Bou Keta gave some account of himself to-day. It seems that "Fezzanee"is not a very respectable epithet in those countries. 

"I am not a Fezzanee, " said Bou Keta, abruptly. 

"Then what are you?"

"My mother was a Tuarick woman, and my father one of the WaladSuleiman. "

"Then the Walad Suleiman are gentlemen, whilst the Fezzanees are Turksand dogs?"

"That's the truth, " quoth he. 

To-day I found the veil of my sister-in-law of essential service. Doubled, it shielded my eyes perfectly from the hot wind and sand. Itserves also as an excellent protection for the eyes against the flieswhilst I am writing. This is the second day of the hot wind. In theevening we heard crickets singing in the scorching sand. At mid-day thethermometer, when buried, rose to 122°° Fahr. We encamped in WadyEl-Makmak, where we had good water, far superior to that at Guber. As innearly all sandy places, a hole is scooped in the sand and then coveredover, or left to be filled by the action of the wind after the khafilahis supplied. Two pretty palms point, as with two fingers, to the buriedwells of El-Makmak. 

Some of our people noticed the lizard to-day. This seems to be theomnipresent animal of the Sahara, inhabiting its most desolate regionswhen no other living creature is seen. It changes in species with thenature of the country. To-day, those seen are large; very soon they willbecome small, meagre, and will change colour. In the valleys I haveobserved them nearly the same colour as the sandy soil. Perhaps thebeetle is nearly as common as the lizard in the desert, being found inits most arid and naked wastes. It is generally a big, round, black-bottle beetle, which produces a trail in the sand that may bemistaken for that of the serpent. 

Still the following day we had to cross the same kind of desert, underthe enervating influence of the gheblee, or hot wind; the thermometer inthe sand reached 130°. Although the camels were eight hours on foot, little progress was made. I stopped an hour to rest in Wady El-Jumar, where were two or three palm-groves. One of the Fezzanees ferreted out alot of dates, hidden in the sand, and taking some distributed themamongst us. 

Thus refreshed we pushed on to encamp in Wady El-Takadafah, where thereis a well of water, good to drink, but disagreeable in smell, like thatof Bonjem. The odour resembles that of a sewer, and is produced byhydrogen of sulphur. We have had good water every day in this sandytract, and I have no doubt that some may be found in every wady, alittle below the surface. Birds begin now to reappear: a few swallows, adove, and some small twitterers, were seen to give life to the otherwisemelancholy wadys. 

Dr. Overweg examined the sand, which rolled in great heaps on everyside, and found it to consist of grains of four kinds, --white, yellow, red, and black; the latter colour caused by the presence of iron. Thesevariegated sands form the basis of sandstone, and may be a decompositionof sandstone. The sand near Tripoli is of a finer sort, consistingmostly of a decomposition of limestone. There is a blue-black earth inthe wadys, arising from the wood, a species of crumbling coal. 

This evening we had a famous _embroglio_ between our chaouch and themarabout. The latter had caught a waran, or large species of lizard, andskinned it to dispose of the skin. The chaouch impudently swore he hadbeen eating the flesh of the reptile--a direful accusation. A tremendouswar of words ensued; and not of words only, for presently the holy mancame in for a gratification of ropes' end. All the Fezzanees rushedforward to save the honour of the marabout; and the chaouch retreated tomy tent in search of arms. A stupid joke was on the point of leading tomurder. I interfered, and succeeded in appeasing the storm in somedegree. I then rated the chaouch soundly for beating a man invested witha sacred character in the eyes of all Musulmans. This produced a goodeffect, and the culprit, hanging his head, seemed ashamed of the part hehad played. Subsequently he kissed the hand of the holy man, and theywere reconciled. 

CHAPTER V. 

More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water andHerbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--HotWind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The Chaouchesastray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of the Oasis--Tempest--NativeHuts--Official Visits--Desert News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Moveon--The Kaïd--Modest Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--VastPlain--Instinct of the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede theCaravan--Reach Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--ActingPasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in theDesert. 

On the 1st of May we had an arduous piece of work to perform. Thekhafilah was in motion fourteen entire hours, over heavy sand, with thehot wind breathing fiercely upon it. No amateur walking was indulged in. Every one kept sullenly to his camel; and those who were obliged toadvance on foot dragged slowly along, seeming every moment as if theywere about to abandon all exertion in despair, and lie down to perish. Our course lay mostly south, as usual; but varied occasionally fromsouth-east to south-west. The scene was one of the most singular thatcould be imagined. Camels and men were scattered along the track, treading slowly but continually forward, and yet not seeming to advanceat all. Instead of the cheering cry of "_Isa! Isa!_" which urges on theburdened beasts over rocky deserts, the dull, prolonged sound of"_Thurr! Thurr!_" was substituted. Beyond this there was no noise. Themen had no strength to talk or to sing, and the tread of many feetawaken no echo in the sandy waste. Waves of red and yellow, or ofdazzling whiteness, swelled round in a circle of ever-varying diameteras we rose and fell. Here and there stretched great stains of blackherbage. Every object is magnified and changed to the eye. The heat andthe swinging motion of the camel produce a slight dizziness, and theouter world assumes a hazy indistinctness of outline--something likedream-landscapes. There is a desert-intoxication which must be felt tobe appreciated. 

We must not, however, libel even the Sandy Desert, by producing theimpression that it is all barren and comfortless. Though far moredifficult to travel over than the Hamadah, it possesses the inestimableadvantage of having water every day once at least. A little after noon, indeed, we passed two lakes; one small, and the other of considerabledimensions, containing sweet water, and bordered by a fringe ofpalm-trees. At times there is very good herbage for the camels. The mostfrequent shrub on which they browse is the _resou_, which has small earsof grain, eaten also by men as food. Traces of animal life, as I haveobserved, are few; but we saw this day two broken ostrich-eggs. How theycame there it is difficult to say: no traces or footmarks have beenremarked. 

At length I had begun to find drinking a necessity. During these days ofsand I imbibed more than during the whole of the rest of the journey. The eating of dates added to my thirst; and the blacks complained of thesame thing. Dates are much better in the winter, and keep the cold outof the stomach; but I should recommend all Saharan travellers to eat asfew of them as possible, at any season of the year. 

During this last day, beyond the expanse of sandy waves through which weswam, as it were, had risen ahead some very conspicuous mountains. Evenat five in the morning we could see detached along the line of thehorizon the highest and most advanced portion of the edge of the plateauof Mourzuk. In three hours the white line of cliffs came in view, looking like a stretch of black-blue sea, contrasting strangely with thesparkling white-sand undulations that stretched to their feet. Some ofus thought that an inland sea--never before heard of--had rolled itswaters athwart our path, so perfect was the illusion. The heavens, thisday particularly, attracted our attention. What a sky! how beautiful!The ground was a soft, light azure; and on its mildly resplendentsurface were scattered loosely about some downy, feathery clouds, of thepurest white--veils manufactured in celestial looms!

We expected to reach our premeditated halting ground about noon, orbefore, these cliffs seeming so near. But as day wore on, new expansesof glittering desert seemed to stretch out before us; and every hillockgained disclosed only the existence of new hillocks ahead. Meanwhile thehot wind still blew with unremitting violence, scorching our faces, andpenetrating to the inmost recesses of our frames. The poor blacks, whowere on foot, gazed wistfully ahead, and ever and anon called to thosewho were nodding on the camels, as if stunned by the heat, to tell themif they might hope for rest. I found my eyesight dimming, and deafnesscoming on. The thermometer was plunged into the sand, and the mercuryinstantly mounted to above 130°. 

At length we sighted the wady, stretching like a green belt between thesand and the mountains beyond. We found that we had been traversing anelevated swell of the desert, for we were full three quarters of an hourdescending to the level of the valley. 

The first specimen of inhabitants we saw on arriving was a group ofnaked children with their mother, who covered herself up in her barracanon our approach. The children were nearly all females, and even those ofnot more than three or four years of age seemed wonderfully developed. They had formed a house out of a thick bush of wild palms over the well. 

These people are what are called Tuaricks of Fezzan. They are adwarfish, slim race; and the Fezzanees call them _their_ Arabs. Theycover up their faces like their kindred of Ghât, but have for the mostpart white _thelems_ instead of black. A few sport a red fotah, orturban. They speak Arabic commonly, but some know also the language ofGhât; which fact connects them certainly with that country. Their propername is Tanelkum, a genuine Tuarick word, and decisive of their Targheeorigin. Their trade is chiefly camel-driving between Ghât and Fezzan. They are a fairer and finer race than the Fezzanees, and do notintermarry with them. Their numbers are not great, perhaps scarcely morethan a thousand souls in all Fezzan; but they live in a state of entireindependence, and pay no contributions to the Porte. 

We passed the first well and came up with the true Fezzanees at thevillage of Laghareefah, where we encamped. It is situated in WadyGharbee, more properly called El-Wady _par excellence_, on account ofits superior fertility and culture. There is also Wady Sherky, andseveral others; as Etsaou, Akar, Um-el-Hammâm, Takruteen, and Aujar. Thepeople of Laghareefah are all of a black-brown hue, and some had theordinary negro features. They were a little rude at first, but made somecompensation in the evening by sending us a good supply of meat andfresh bread to our tents. 

To our surprise, we saw nothing of our chaouches here; and on makinginquiries, we found that they were not with the caravan. They were knownto have pushed on ahead, impatient to arrive. We suspected they hadtaken the wrong route, and did not remember to have seen the track oftheir horses' hoofs on the sand as we advanced. At first we were notsorry that they were suffering a little for their bad conduct all theway from Tripoli, to which I have only made passing allusions. But thenwe began to be alarmed for their safety, and begged the Sheikh to send aman after them with water. They did not make their appearance untilmorning, when we learned that with immense fatigue they had succeeded instriking the valley lower down at another village, where they hadtarried the remainder of the night. As might be expected, they were inno good humour after their excursion in the sand; but our people, whohad enjoyed a brief respite of unwonted tranquillity during theirabsence, instead of condoling with them, received them with laughter andjeers. 

The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady sent us breakfast, and he and his people were farmore polite than yesterday. We learned that there was a caravan in thewady about to start for Ghât, and I took the opportunity to write tothat place to produce a proper impression of our views and intentions, as I learned that a very erroneous one had gone abroad. The Sheikh andhis elders came to ask me to _lend_ them twelve mahboubs, to make up theamount of tribute now being collected by the agents of the Pasha ofMourzuk. Of course I did not consent, representing that I was at theoutset of a long journey, and that the Pasha would certainly punish themif he ever heard that such a request had been made. As a solace for thedisappointment, I gave the Sheikh three handkerchiefs and apocket-knife. The Tuaricks came in for a little soap, an articleseemingly in universal request. 

El-Wady is a deep valley, lying like a moat between the elevated sandydesert and the plateau on which Mourzuk is situated. This plateau, atthe distance of every few miles, juts out huge buttresses ofperpendicular cliffs, which frown over the broken thread of greenvegetation in the valley. Thick forests of palms stretch at variouspoints along the low plain, where are springs plentifully furnished byfiltration from the high ground on either hand. The various kinds ofoasian culture are pursued here with success. Wheat and barley areproduced in considerable quantities; and camels, asses, and goats findplentiful nourishment. The villages are numerous; but some contain onlyfew men, and none exceed forty-five. Takarteebah, the largest place, pays four hundred and ninety mahboubs per annum, cultivates fourthousand palms, yielding a hundred and fifty kafasses of dates, thirtyof wheat, and eight of barley; it feeds eleven asses. I observed thatall domestic animals, the goats especially, attain a very diminutivesize in these oases, the nourishment for them being but scanty. 

In this oasis the palm-groves are much more dense than in any other Ihave seen. They almost merit the name of forests, both from their sizeand wild luxuriant appearance. The Fezzanees pay little attention totheir culture, and when a tree falls it is frequently suffered to liefor months, even though it block up the public road. In contrast to theburning desert we had just traversed, these dense woods casting theirshadows on the white sand produced a most pleasing effect. We eagerlywandered into the cool arcades, and watched with delight the doves andhippoes, and other birds, as they fluttered to and fro amidst thedrooping leaves. 

Laghareefah, like Edree, had been destroyed by the brilliant, thoughruthless usurper, Abd-el-Galeel, on account of its resistance to hisauthority. The old town is at a little distance from the new, and wasevidently a much better-built place, commanded by an earthen kasr orfortress. 

On May 2d, we had a tempest of thunder and lightning to the south on thehills, produced by the intense heat of the morning, and its accumulationduring the previous few days. Rain seemed to be falling at a distance ofa few hours. In the evening the mercury still stood about 100°. The heatnow was still very distressing. The wind came charged with dust thatrolled in columns, like smoke beaten down by a tempest, across thesurface of the valley. All the vegetation seemed withered, as if in anoven; and the wheat in the ear was brittle, as though roasted. There isa good deal of wheat in this oasis. I observed an old woman reaping, andwent to chat with her. Her sickle had a long handle, and the bladeitself was narrow, but slightly bent and somewhat serrated. I tried it, and found that it answered its purpose very well, however rude inappearance. 

I entered one of the huts made of palm-branches, and carelessly smearedwith mud--an attempt at plastering that can hardly be called successful. The door was formed of rough planks of date-wood, and the flooring ofhard-trodden earth, covered with mats. The principal article offurniture was, as usual, the small hand corn-mill, for nearly everyperson in the East is still his own miller. The huts, though rude inoutward appearance, were dark, cool, and comfortable within. In the townitself, many of them are built entirely of mud; that is to say, of roundmud balls, first moistened with water, and then dried in the sun. Ientered several, and found that most were empty. Where we found people, they were courteous and cheerful in manners, and smiled at the curiositywith which I lifted up the wicker covers of their pots and jars. In oneI found a little sour milk; in another, some bazeen; in another, a fewdates soaking in water. A small vessel now and then occurred, full ofoil; but this is the greatest luxury they possess. 

None of the doors has either lock or key. The Fezzanee observed, "Strangers may steal, but Fezzanees never. All the dates remain securelyon the trees until gathered by the owners. " It must be observed, however, that the anomaly of vast possessions being held by one man, whocan scarcely consume or utilise the produce, whilst others have not astone whereon to lay their heads, and depend even for a burial-placeupon charity, is not to be observed in this barbarous country. 

The children of the Wady, up to the age of seven or eight years, goabout perfectly naked, which may partly account for the bronze-blackcolour of their skins. The Tuaricks are generally fairer than theFezzanees, though some of these latter are fair as the Moors on thecoast, whilst others are black as very niggers. 

We received a visit from the Nather, or civil governor of the Wady. Heis a Fezzanee, Abbas by name; and thankfully received the present of ahandkerchief. The Kaïd, or military commander, is a Moor from Tripoli. Everybody seems interested about us, and there is a perfect flux ofvisits. All the authorities around seem to make our arrival a holiday. We are quite the fashion. The chaouch gets drunk in the evening onleghma, furnished by the Nather, who wants to worm out all the news; andthere is little doubt that he has learned the whole truth, and a gooddeal more. El-Maskouas, the Turkish officer employed in collectingcontributions for Mourzuk, arrived at the camp and brought letters fromM. Gagliuffi. He also told us that the Sheikh of Aghadez had not yetreturned from his pilgrimage to Mekka. The motions of all these desertmagnates are circulated from mouth to mouth as assiduously as those ofour Mayfair fashionables. 

Among our visitors was Haj Mohammed El-Saeedy, the owner of our camels. His social position answers to that of an English shipowner. He is amarabout of great celebrity in this country, and moves about in anatmosphere of respect. By the way, when it became clearly impressed uponmy mind that the Fezzanee camel-drivers were merely employed for hire, and had no property whatever in the beasts they drove, my opinion ofthem began to rise. It would have been impossible to take more care ofthe camels than they did. 

We remained stationary in the Wady, from the 1st of May to the eveningof the 3d, when we moved on to Toueewah. After dark was passed Azerna, in the neighbourhood of which stood the ancient town, celebrated for itsruins. The modern place, though presenting a martial kind of appearancewith its battlemented mud walls, contained only ten inhabitants, wholive like so many rats in holes or under the piles of ruins. On the 4th, when the people removed our beds in the morning, a scorpion salliedfuriously forth. We had been sleeping with him under our pillows. Wemoved on, still in the Wady, for a couple of hours, until we came to thehouse of the Kaïd, and once more encamped. His habitation is large, commodious, and well protected from the sun. He showed us hissleeping-apartment, which is airy and well protected from the sun. Anumber of little wicker baskets, the handiwork of his wife, served as somany clothes-presses. The baskets of Fezzan are perfectly water-tight. 

This Kaïd, called Ahmed Tylmoud, is quite a character, and looks verydroll with his single eye. He has twenty soldiers only under his commandthroughout the valley. The Turks do not waste their men, making up byseverity for want of numbers. Like the commandant of Shaty, this AhmedTylmoud insisted on "playing at powder" with his men for ouredification; but was also obliged to beg his ammunition. It is singular, that although these people are only armed with matchlocks, and aresupposed to be ready for service, either to defend the country or levycontributions, they seem entirely destitute of all necessary provisionsfor that purpose. 

We were pestered with two very modest requests, which were not in ourpower to grant. In the first place, the native inhabitants sent adeputation to ask us to use our influence with the Governor of Mourzukto procure a reduction of their taxes; and then the Arab troops desiredthat we should procure for them their discharge. Our refusal even totake the charge of these verbal petitions seemed very harsh. Animpression had evidently got abroad that we came to bring about ageneral redress of grievances; or, at any rate, that our influence wasfar greater than we chose to avow. 

I gave to the Kaïd a handkerchief, as well as some snuff and tobacco. Inreturn, he sent a little bread and a fly-flapper; so that we parted goodfriends. During our stay, we heard this jolly fellow entertaining thechaouches and his own horsemen with a description of the ladies of theWady, who had no reason to be flattered by his account. And yet he seemsto have married one himself: _hinc illæ lachrymæ_, perhaps. My chaouchhad already given me a confirmation of these libels, and was evidentlygreatly delighted by this testimony to his exactitude. 

There are several roads from the Wady to Mourzuk, all much about thesame distance. It is said, also, that Ghât is only ten days fromLaghareefah. We moved on a little further on the evening of the 4th, butdid not start properly until next day, when we made a long stretch ofmore than thirteen hours, and encamped at the village of Agar, where Iremembered having halted once before on my way from Ghât. During thisday's march we found, that what we had supposed to be the border of theMourzuk plateau was not in reality so. We soon reached the summit of thecliffs, and having cast back a glance upon the valley, with its expanseof corn-fields and thousands of palm-trees, expected to find an elevatedplateau beyond; but the hills gradually softened down into a plain ontheir eastern side. Our route may be said to have led through awilderness, not a desert. On all sides were clusters of the tholukh, which grows prettily up, and has a poetical appearance. The ground atsome places was strewed with branches, cut down for the goats to feedon. Then we came to a small wady full of _resou_, which our maraboutcalls the "meat of the camel;" and all the camels at once stopped, andfor a long time obstinately refused to proceed. This appeared strange tous, but on inquiry we found that the sagacious brutes rememberedperfectly well that until the evening there would be no herbage so good, and were determined to have their fill whilst there was an opportunity. The drivers, after indulging them a few moments, took them in flank, andtheir shouts of "_Isa! Isa!_" and some blows, at length got the caravanout of this elysium of grass into the hungry plain beyond. As weproceeded, a cold bracing wind began to blow from the east, andconsiderably chilled our frames. I had met the same weather four yearspreviously. Towards evening, however, it became warmer, as it usuallydoes. The country was bare and level, like an expanse of dull-colouredwater; and the palm-trees that cluster near the village rose slowlyabove the horizon as we drew nigh. The sun had gone down, and the plainstretched dim and shadowy around before we came in sight of the group ofhovels which form the village. As I looked back, the scattered camelsslowly toiling along could be faintly traced against the horizon. 

The Sheikh of Agar received us well this time, sending us two fowls andsupper for our people. This place consists of huts made of palm-branchesand of mud hovels, several of which are in ruins. The same remarkconstantly recurs in reference to almost all the towns of Barbary, bothtowards the coast and far in the interior. The vital principle ofcivilisation seems to have exhausted itself in those parts. 

I was now in a country comparatively familiar to me, and knew that I hadbut one more ride to reach the capital of Fezzan. Rising early on the6th, therefore, I determined to press on in advance of the caravan; andstarting with warm weather, puffs of wind coming now from thesouth-east, now from the north-west, very unsteadily--the atmosphere wasslightly murky, with sand flying about--I soon came in sight of thepalm-groves of Mourzuk, without making any other rencontre than aTuarick coursing over the desert in full costume. The old castle peepedpicturesquely through the trees, but I had still a good way to go beforereaching shelter. The sand and white earth that form the surface of theoasis near the town were painfully dazzling to my eyes. 

At length I reached the suburbs, where a few people stared curiously atme. My arrival had been announced by the chaouches, who had gone onabout a quarter of an hour before; and at the eastern gate the soldiersallowed me to pass without notice, or any allusion to _gumruk_. Mr. Gagliuffi had come out to meet me; but having taken a different gate wecrossed, and I arrived on my camel at his house, and found it empty. Myveil being down in the streets I was recognised by no one. The actingGovernor had arranged to meet me with twenty horsemen, but I had takenthem all quite unawares. The letters forwarded requesting us to make ahalt in the suburbs, and then advance slowly in "holiday costume, " forthe sake of effect, had not reached me. However, they had hoisted theOttoman flag on the castle, in honour of our expected arrival, --acompliment that had not before been paid to strangers, and one neveroffered at Tripoli. 

Our German friends arrived shortly afterwards, and we all had a veryhospitable reception from Mr. Gagliuffi, with whom we lodged. A fewcalls were made upon us in the evening, but we were glad enough to seekour beds. Next day the chief people of the city, the Kady and otherdignitaries, began early to visit us. When we had exchanged complimentswith them, we went in full European dress to wait on the acting Pasha. We found him to be a very quiet, unassuming man, who gave us a most kindand gentlemanlike reception, equal to anything of the kind of Tripoli. He is a Turk, and recognised me as having been before at Mourzuk. We hadcoffee, pipes, and sherbet made of oranges. Afterwards we visited theTreasurer, who also gave us coffee, and was very civil; and finallycalled upon the brother of the Governor of Ghât, who was writing lettersfor us to-day. 

I feel in better health than when I left Tripoli. Yet we are all alittle nervous about the climate of Mourzuk, which is situated in aslight depression of the plain, in a place inclined to be marshy. TheConsul has just recovered from a severe illness. 

We had been, in all, thirty-nine days from Tripoli, a considerableportion of which time was spent in travelling. This makes a longjourney; but I am told that our camel-drivers should have brought us byway of Sebha, and thus effected a saving of three or four days. Thegreater portion of our sandy journey was unnecessary, and merelyundertaken that these gentlemen might have an opportunity of visitingtheir wives and families. 

On a retrospective view of the route from Tripoli to Mourzuk, _viâ_Mizdah, I am inclined to divide the country, for convenience sake, intoa series of zones, or regions. 

1st zone. This includes the sandy flat of the suburbs of the town ofTripoli, with the date-palm plantations and the sand-hills contiguous. 

2d zone. The mountains, or Tripoline Atlas, embracing the rising groundwith their influence on the northern side, and the olive and figplantations, covering the undulating ground on the southern side, wherethe Barbary vegetation is seen in all its vigour and variety. This mayalso be emphatically called the region of rain. 

3d zone. The limestone hills and broad valleys, gradually assuming thearidity of the Sahara as you proceed southward, between the town ofKaleebah and Ghareeah; the olive plantations and corn-fields disappear, entirely in this tract. 

4th zone. The Hamadah, an immense desert plateau, separating Tripolifrom Fezzan. 

5th zone. The sandy valleys and limestone rocks between El-Hasee andEs-Shaty, where herbage and trees are found, affording food to numerousgazelles, hares, and the wadan. 

6th. The sand between Shaty and El-Wady, piled in masses, or heaps, extending in undulating plains, and occasionally opening in smallvalleys with herbage and trees. 

7th. The sandy valleys of El-Wady, covered with forests of date-palms, through which peep a number of small villages. 

8th. The plateau of Mourzuk, consisting of shallow valleys, ridges oflow sandstone hills, and naked flats, or plains, sometimes of sand, atothers covered with pebbles and small stones. 

All these zones beyond the Atlas are visited by only occasional showers, or are entirely without rain, the vegetation depending upon irrigationfrom wells. I do not go into further detail on this subject, because, although our line of route was new, this stretch of country is tolerablywell known to the geographical reader. 

I have omitted to mention, or to lay much stress on the fact, that wewere unable to procure sufficient camels at Tripoli to convey our goodsall the way to Mourzuk. We were compelled to leave three camel-loadsbehind, in the first place, at Gharian; these were subsequently got onto Kaleebah, and thence to Mizdah: but there the influence of IzhetPasha's circular letter entirely failed to procure for us three extracamels, and we were compelled to push on to Mourzuk, leaving part of ourgoods in the oasis. This circumstance caused me a great deal ofannoyance, both on the route and after our arrival, for it was a longtime before we got in all our baggage. However, it at last arrived, andthe delay only served to illustrate the difficulty of procuringconveyance in these dismal countries, and to lead us into considerableexpense. 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Oasis of Fezzan--Population--Ten Districts--Their Denomination andCondition--Sockna--Honn--Worm of the Natron Lakes--Zoueelah--MixedRace--Improvements in Mourzuk--Heavy Ottoman Yoke--Results of theCensus--Amount of Revenue--Military Force--Arab Cavaliers--Barracks--Methodof Recruiting--Turkish System superior to French--Razzias--Population ofMourzuk--Annual Market--Articles of Traffic--Acting-Governor and hisCoadjutors--Story of a faithless Woman--Transit Duties in Fezzan--SlaveTrade--Sulphur in the Syrtis--Proposed Colony from Malta. 

The Pashalic of Fezzan, although it occupies a considerable space uponthe map--advancing like a peninsula from the line of Barbary countriesinto the Sahara--is in reality a very insignificant province. From allthat I can learn, its entire population does not exceed twenty-sixthousand souls, scattered about in little oases over a vast extent ofcountry. It is, in fact, a portion of the Sahara, in which fertilevalleys occur a little more frequently than in the other portions. Immense deserts, sometimes perfectly arid, but at others slightlysprinkled with herbage, separate these valleys; and are periodicallytraversed by caravans, great and small, which in the course of time havecovered the country with a perfect network of tracks. 

Fezzan is divided into ten districts, of which the principal isEl-Hofrah, containing the capital, Mourzuk, and several smaller towns. It is here and there besprinkled with beautiful gardens, in which arecultivated, besides the date-palm, several of the choicest fruits thatgrow on the coast--as figs, grapes, peaches, pomegranates, and melons. In these gardens, as in most of the oases of the desert, the fruit treesthat require most protection from the sun are planted between the palms, which make a kind of roof with their long leaves. Abd-el-Galeeldestroyed many of these groves to punish their owners, refractory to hisauthority. 

Two crops are obtained in the year: in the spring, barley and wheat arereaped; and in the summer and autumn, Indian corn, ghaseb, and otherkinds of grain. All the culture is carried on by means of irrigation, the water being thrown over the fields by means of runnels of variousdimensions twice in the day; that is, once early in the morning, andonce late in the afternoon until dark. 

Wady Ghudwah is a single town with gardens, and the other featurescommon to all the Fezzan oases. 

Sebha includes two towns, having a considerable population, with gardensand date-palms. 

Bouanees includes three towns, well peopled, and has immense numbers ofdate-palms. 

El-Jofrah contains the second capital or large town of the pashalic, Sockna, built of stones and mud, with nine or ten smaller towns, alltolerably populous. 

Sockna is situated midway between Mourzuk and Tripoli, and is aboutfourteen days from the former. The inhabitants are Moors, and, besidesArabic, speak a Berber dialect. Sockna is celebrated for its fine sweetdates, called kothraee; and there is abundance of every kind of thisfruit. A considerable quantity of grain is sown--wheat and barley--andthe gardens abound with peaches. The town of Honn, distant about twohours from this place, is nearly as large, and also surrounded withgardens. 

Wady Gharby, and Es-Shaty, have already been described. In the sandsbetween these two places are situated the celebrated natron lakes, inwhich that miraculous dud ("worm") spontaneously appears at certainseasons of the year, and is eaten as people in Europe eat sardines--tosharpen the appetite. The natron is also a source of profitableexportation. Wady Sharky almost exactly resembles Wady Gharby, inpopulation and natural features. 

Sharkeeah, besides some insignificant places, includes the interestingancient capital called Zoueelah, whence the name of Zoilah is given bythe Tibboos to all Fezzan. Half the population of this place consists ofShereefs, and there are indeed great and increasing numbers of thisclass of persons throughout the whole country. 

Ghatroun includes, with Tajerby the most southern place of Fezzan, threesmall towns. The inhabitants are all black, speaking the Tibbooese andBornouese languages, and very little Arabic. The other nine districtsabove enumerated contain a mixed race, like the population of Mourzuk;but some of the northern towns are inhabited by people of purer blood, with comparatively fair complexions. 

Mourzuk itself, the seat of the Pashalic, --distant about four hundredand twenty miles from Tripoli, in a straight line, and five hundred, counting the sinuosities of the road, _viâ_ Benioleed, Bonjem, andSockna, --is a rising town, becoming daily more salubrious by theimprovements made since the residence of the Turks here, and thesubjection of the inhabitants to a more orderly and powerful governmentthan they had been accustomed to. The British Consul, Mr. Gagliuffi, hasrendered important aid to the administration, in embellishing theappearance of Mourzuk, and giving it the air and character of a Turkishcity of the coast. Our camel-drivers pretend that it is already superiorto Tripoli. At the Consul's suggestion a colonnade has been built in themain street, in front of the shops, affording shelter from the fieryrays of the summer sun, as well as being an agreeable place for thenatives to lounge under and make their purchases. He was also theprincipal promoter of the erection of new barracks for the troops, andthe appropriation of a large house as a hospital for the poor. His lastimprovement is the plantation of a garden of the choice fruit-trees andvegetables of the coast; and his example has been imitated by the BimBashaw, commandant of the troops, who is now laying out a garden in aconspicuous part of the city. 

Since the departure of Abd-el-Galeel with his Arab followers, the WaladSuleiman, for the neighbourhood of Bornou, the province of Fezzan hascertainly enjoyed profound tranquillity. But on account of heavytaxation, high customs' dues, and other clogs to free commerce, thepeople are sinking deeper and deeper into poverty and wretchedness, and, except in the capital, there is a general retrograde movement. TheOttoman yoke is a peculiarly heavy one; it keeps the people in order, but it crushes them; and perhaps the Fezzanees may now regret somewhatthe wholesome anarchy that distinguished the Arab chieftain's reign. 

As I have said, the entire population of the ten districts of Fezzan is, according to the last Turkish census, only about twenty-six thousandsouls, of whom about eleven thousand are males, including the children. The disproportion of the sexes arises in part from the number of femaleslaves, in part from the emigration of the men to the commercialcountries of the interior, either for temporary gain, or permanently toescape from the grinding weight of taxation. 

The whole amount of revenue collected by the Government is estimated atfifty thousand mahboubs per annum. Twenty-three thousand of these areraised by direct taxation, whilst the remainder is produced by customs'dues and the date-palm groves, which are the property of Government. 

The military force by which the Turks hold possession of this vast butthinly-peopled territory--stretching north and south twenty-one days'journey, or about three hundred miles--is the very inconsiderable numberof six hundred and thirty men. The garrison of Mourzuk itself consistsof four hundred and thirty men, of whom about one-half are Fezzanees, twenty or thirty Turks, and the residue Arabs or Moors. The remainingthree hundred are Arab cavaliers, living chiefly on their own means, andchanged every year, who serve as a flying corps, or mounted police, forall the districts of Fezzan. The rate of pay for this latter class isone kail of wheat and half a mahboub per month for those who have nohorses, and one kail of dates additional for those who are mounted. Thisdivision, however, is fastidious at present, as all those on service inFezzan are now possessed of horses. In the whole regency of Tripolithere are but six hundred and sixty of these Arab soldiers; but inBonjem and the Syrtis they are not cavalry, and the detachment atGhadamez is mixed. [3] I am afraid these janissaries are obliged tocommit spoliations in the towns and districts where they are stationedto avoid starvation. 

 [3] The distribution of the corps is as follows:--

 In Gibel 150 Fezzan 200 The Syrtis 150 Bonjem 60 Ghadamez 100

I visited the barracks of Mourzuk, and found them to be commodious, andapparently salubrious. The good living of these stationary troopssurprised me. They have meat and excellent soup everyday, with rice andbiscuit. The Fezzanee is never so well fed and well clothed and lodgedas when he is a soldier. Indeed the men seem too well off, in comparisonwith their former state and with the rest of the population. Nevertheless, they are glad to escape when the time of their serviceexpires. The people all dread being made soldiers: so that Government iscompelled to resort to the most paltry tricks to get recruits. Men areoften unjustly charged with theft or debt, and put in prison, and thenlet out as a favour to be enlisted, or sometimes are clapped into theranks at once. Youths have been seized as soldiers for kicking up thedust in front of a sentinel and dirtying his clothes. I remarked thenumber of soldiers that were black, and the Bim Bashaw observed that hehoped the time would come when there would not be a white private leftin Mourzuk. The Turks manage to do with twenty or thirty of their ownpeople, mostly officers, in this garrison; but, by one method oranother, get as many Fezzanee recruits as they want. 

The Turkish system is vastly superior to the French in this importantmatter of garrisoning their possessions in Northern Africa. The latterrequire one hundred men where the Turks are content with one to hold thecountry. Perhaps one of the chief reasons may be the difference ofreligion. The Arabs and other natives of North Africa cannot endure thesight of a ruler of another faith. Something, however, may be attributedto the immense and sacred authority of the Ottoman Sultan, the greatchief of the Mussulmans of the East, as the Shereefan Emperor of Moroccois the chief of the Mussulmans of the West. We may add, also, thetremendous severity of the Turkish criminal law, or, rather, theinexorable justice with which a crime committed against a Turkishfunctionary is visited. The French make their razzias and strike offheads enough; but their criminal code in Algeria is perhaps not sosummary and sanguinary as that of the Turks. Possibly one of the chiefreasons of this curious contrast may be the fact that the French soldieris scarcely to be depended on when isolated. He acts well in masses, butconsiders himself deserted and betrayed when left comparatively alone. At any rate, the fact is that the Turks hold Tripoli with a handful ofmen, whilst the French, with a military force nearly as large as thewhole British army, can scarcely maintain a feverish and uncertainpossession of Algeria. 

The population of Mourzuk numbers two thousand souls. It is very muchmixed, and the people vary greatly in colour, so that there is nogeneral character. There are more women than children, the greaterportion of the females belonging to the members of the great wintercaravans. Contrary to what I had been told, these women seem to berather remarkable for modesty and virtue than otherwise. It is worthobserving, that Fatamah, the proper name of Mahomet's daughter, is hereused, by excess of delicacy, to describe the softer sex, more especiallyladies. 

From October to January, as at Ghât, there is a large annual souk, ormarket, at Mourzuk. One general caravan comes from Bornou and Soudan, every year during the winter season, and small bodies of merchants alsogo up and down to Soudan in the summer; whilst to Bornou there is nointermediate trade. Caravans also congregate here from Egypt, Bengazi, Tripoli, Ghadamez, Ghât, and Tuat. From forty thousand to sixty thousandSpanish dollars is the value of the merchandise that usually changeshands during the great mart. The principal articles of traffic from theinterior are slaves, senna, and ivory. This is the first year that ahundred and fifty cantars of elephants' teeth have been brought fromBornou; sixty or seventy of these were consigned to one merchant, fortywere on account of the Vizier of Bornou, and the remainder belonged toArab traders. This export of elephants' teeth direct _viâ_ Fezzan hasonly lately been opened. Some manufactured cottons are likewise broughtfrom Soudan, and sell easily in this part of the Sahara, especiallyamongst the Tuaricks. Besides, there are exported bullocks' and goats'skins, and a small quantity of ostrich feathers. The gum trade haslately been introduced into Fezzan by the British Consul, and onehundred cantars per annum are already collected from the tholukh-trees. 

The acting Governor of Fezzan always resides at Mourzuk. His principalcoadjutors in the despatch of affairs are a Kady with two secretaries, aSheikh or mayor of the city, some respectable men who act as privycouncillors, the Wakeels of Bengazi, Augila, Sokna, &c. 

A little story may find its place here, as an apt illustration of thestate of society and manners in this out-of-the-way capital. A marriedwoman preferred another man to her husband, and frankly confessed thather affections had strayed. Her lord, instead of flying into a passion, and killing her on the spot, thought a moment, and said, --

"I will consent to divorce you, if you will promise one thing. "

"What is that?" inquired the delighted wife. 

"You must looloo to me only when I pass on the day of the celebration ofyour nuptials with the other man. "

Now it is, the custom for women, under such circumstances, to looloo(that is, salute with a peculiar cry) any handsome male passer-by. However, the woman promised, the divorce took place, and the lover wassoon promoted into a second husband. On the day of the wedding, however, the man who had exacted the promise passed by the camel on which thebride was riding, and saluted her, as is the custom, with the dischargeof his firelock. Upon this she remembered, and looloed to him. The newbridegroom, enraged at this marked preference, noticing that she had notgreeted any one else, and thinking possibly that he was playing the partof a dupe, instantly fell upon his bride and slew her. He had scarcelydone so when the brothers of the woman came up and shot him down; sothat the first husband compassed ample vengeance without endangeringhimself in the slightest degree. This is an instance of Arab cunning. 

A subject of considerable importance was brought under my attention atMourzuk. It appears that whilst the objects of legitimate commerce, inbeing exported from the interior to Fezzan and Tripoli, pay doubleduties--that is, twelve and a-half per cent in each place--slaves pay notransit duty whatever in this regency of Barbary if they are destinedfor the Constantinople market, and even if sold in Tripoli or Fezzanonly pay once a duty of ten mahboubs per head. It frequently happensbesides that the Turkish merchants, who embark with their slaves forConstantinople, sell a considerable number on the way. On arriving attheir destination, they pretend that such as are missing from theirregister have died; and in this manner they contrive to evade thepayment of all duty whatever. It has been attempted to get the impost often mahboubs paid in Mourzuk, and likewise to force all the caravans totake that route. This would have acted as a check upon the slave-trade;but the influence of the Gadamsee merchants was too great to allow themeasure to be carried out. It is most important that the legitimatetrade should not be burdened with double custom-dues, and it is to behoped that the influence of the British Government will be used to bringabout some reform in this matter. We should bear in mind, that as mostof the goods and merchandise passing through Fezzan are only in transit, they are therefore legally subject to a duty of no more than three percent. 

I have paid as much attention to this subject of the encouragement ofthe legitimate trade as my time and other occupations would allow me. Itwill be as well to make a note here on another point, though it may seemout of place, --the existence of sulphur in the Syrtis. There appears nodoubt that this substance can be procured at the foot of a mountaincalled Gebel Sinoube, about six miles from the sea at the innermostpoint of the Syrtis. A considerable quantity is obtained by the Arabsnear this mountain, about eighteen camel-hours south-west from a placeon the coast called Maktar, the eastern limits of the district Syrt. There is also good sulphur found in the Gebel-Harouj, five or six dayseast from Sokna. But what is really the per-centage of pure sulphur onthe rough masses of the mines is not ascertained; nor is the qualityprecisely known, except that of the Harouj mountain. Accurateinformation could only be procured by despatching a trustworthy Sicilianminer to make a report. Perhaps these mines could only be brought intoprofitable working in the event of the stoppage of a supply from Sicily. It has been proposed to establish a colony of Maltese at Zafran, on theshore of the Syrtis. If this idea were carried out, the sulphur minesmight by this means be brought into play. 

CHAPTER VII. 

DIARY OF RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 

Sickness of Gagliuffi--Baggage left at Mizdah--Runthar Aga--TheHospital--Various Visits--Arrival of the New Governor--AnimatedScene--Correspondence--Visit Mustapha Agha--Bragging Sheikh Boro--Tibboosof Tibesty--Curious Country--Presents to Turkish Functionaries--AWoman divorced--Haj Lameen--Presents expected--BrilliantAtmosphere--Water-Melons--The Gardens--Winnowing Grain--Housesof Salt Mud--Nymphs of the Gardens--Wells--Presents toFunctionaries--Phrenology--Queen's Birthday--Walks in the Orchards andGardens--Corn-threshing--Kingdom of Aheer--Ass's Head--A Wedding--AFuneral--Great Dinner--Tibboos--Prepare to depart--The Pilgrim Caravan;its Privileges--Tuat and the French--Departure of Germans--Wife ofEs-Sfaxee--An Arab Saying--Letters--Disease--Arrival of Escort--EasternConsulates--Business--Hateetah--The Son of Shafou--Poor Sheikhs--HardBargain. 

_May 7th. _--We are already busy with preparations for our start to theinterior. Mr. Gagliuffi has written to Ghât to-day for Hateetah and hisescort of Tuaricks. Excitement protects us, perhaps, from the deadlyinfluence of the climate of Mourzuk. Mr. Gagliuffi is recovering from asevere attack, and anticipates being obliged to leave for the coast. Wetrust he will not be driven from his post whilst we are in Soudan. However, we must trust to the same Providence that has hitherto watchedover us. 

I am having all our letters of recommendation for the interior copied, to be sent home to Government, so that if anything happen to us they mayknow what kind of support we have received. If anything happen! Thepresence of that doubt gives a solemnity and an importance to the mosttrifling thing we do. A soldier is allowed to indulge in serious thoughtbefore going into battle, and the chances in his favour are greater thanthose in ours. We, too, may have to do battle with men; but the dangersof the desert are also arrayed against us, and when they are passed, themiasmas of Central Africa fill the air beyond. 

The marabout, with his camel and burden, has not yet come up; he left usto visit his country. We are likewise still without news of threecamel-loads left behind at Mizdah. There is always a train of stragglersbehind every caravan that is not huddled together by fear. We shouldnever have procured beasts enough on the road, and did well to take themdirect from Tripoli. The Pasha's circular letter was of little or no usein this respect; and, indeed, we could not expect it to cause camels tostart out of the ground. 

_8th. _--I paid a visit to the commandant of the troops, Runthar Aga, BimBashaw, quite a Christian Moor; and got information on military affairswhilst tasting the soup in the kitchen. Also called upon our old friendthe Doctor, and inspected the hospital, which certainly holds out notemptation to a man to be ill. The patients are few: two have strongfevers; five or six are convalescent; the sick-list contains no othercases; but it will be different when summer comes on. 

_9th. _--Received a visit from the acting Governor, and presented himwith a bottle of snuff. Like other great men, this Pasha makes a greatconsumption of rappee, and empties nearly a box a-day. 

_10th. _--The military seem to have taken a fancy to us. Here comes theCommandant, to return our call, with all the officers of the garrison. Smiles and courtesy are the order of the day. Dr. Overweg brings outsome of his scientific instruments, and the knowing ones have anopportunity of showing their ignorance. All passes off well. Mr. Gagliuffi observes: "You would not have had so much attention paid toyou in Tripoli. " Possibly; but this may partly be accounted for by therarity of Europeans at Mourzuk. Familiarity has not had time to breedcontempt. 

_11th. _--There is excitement in the town. What news? The new actingGovernor, my old acquaintance of Ghadamez, Rais Mustapha, is in sight, hull above the horizon. We all go out to meet him, and soon see his_cortège_ breaking between the groves. This is the gayest and mostspirited scene I have witnessed since leaving Tripoli. Mustapha bringshis staff and 200 Arab cavaliers with him, to relieve the Fezzanirregulars. They make a gallant-looking body of men as they come swiftlyon. All the authorities of the town, with whatever cavalry is alreadycollected here, pour out of the gates to pay their compliments; and thencome crowds of the lower classes of citizens, with their rude bagpipes, which scream discordantly. The horsemen galloped hither and thither inthe plain whilst the interview between the great men took place, andeffectually drowned all the polite things that were said by theirtrampling and hurrahing. We rode up likewise to welcome the new greatman. Mustapha looked well, was excellently mounted, and dressed almostlike an European officer. He smiled graciously on seeing his old friendof Ghadamez, and shook me by the hand; he also recognised the Germans, having seen them at Zaweeah, near Tripoli. Satisfied with this littleinterview, we drew aside, and the procession moved towards the gate. There was instantly a rush of the Arab horsemen, every one trying to getin front; and as the entry was narrow an obstruction soon took place. Wedrew aside, and called out to those who were pressing on to make way forthe Governor. One fellow would not hear; and Mustapha himself riding up, lashed him with a small whip across the shoulders. Bad taste; butperhaps excusable in this case, if ever. These lawless soldiery cannever be taught good manners, without which true discipline isimpossible. However, we at length got within the gate, and theprocession poured along the streets, the women _loo-looing_ as wepassed, the bagpipes shrieking louder than ever, the crowd buzzing, thehorses thundering, the cavaliers shouting. In fine, this hubbub carriedus quite back into the regions of civilisation, where men collect onpublic occasions often without any real joy, and by mere process ofaction and reaction succeed in working themselves up into a state ofboisterous enthusiasm. 

Several days were now chiefly occupied in writing reports on theprogress made by the expedition hitherto; and in voluminouscorrespondence on petty, matters--petty, I mean, in themselves, but veryimportant to us--all connected with our future proceedings. I forwardedto the Foreign Office a letter addressed by the Sultan Laoul, of theTibboos of Bilma, to Mr. Gagliuffi. It appears these people are nownominally subject to the Ottoman Porte. 

_12th. _--We went to pay a visit to Mustapha Agha, my old friend ofGhadamez. He received us with all the honours--a guard of officers, pipes, coffee, and sherbet. That important subject of health was a gooddeal talked of. Mustapha fears the climate of Fezzan, and finds littleconsolation in the doctrines of fatalism. He seemed surprised at thebulk of the despatches last forwarded from the Consulate, and asked ifwe all knew how to write. He cannot understand the necessity of minutedirections. We explained as well as we could; and then talked of thejourneys we had respectively performed. This gave Mustapha anopportunity of astonishing us in his Turkish way. He said that he hadcome with 200 men and 300 camels from Tripoli in sixteen days, havingstopped only one day, and travelled regularly from three in theafternoon to nine next morning. We marvelled, as in duty bound; butrefrained not from making inquiries; the result of which was, that thereal time was thirty-one days, only eight days less than we hadoccupied. We did not scold Mustapha for his exaggeration, but mightperhaps have done so without offence. When a Turk does tell a lie, hesubmits to be accused of it with good-humour. 

After leaving the hyperbolical Governor, we went to see Sheikh MohammedBoro, Sakontaroua of Aghadez, who has arrived here _en route_ fromMekka. He was recommended to us by Hassan Pasha of Tripoli; but Mr. Gagliuffi does not think much of him. We shall see. 

_14th. _--Walked in the gardens, and were pleased with their aspect. Onreturning, I wrote out the different kinds of dates in this country. Wesaw some Egyptian camels with a pilgrim caravan, of a dark and almostblack colour. 

My Fezzanee marabout, by the way, has left Mourzuk, after making me apresent of some cakes and dates of dainty quality. He has been of greatuse to me, and I shall remember him with pleasure. 

I had to-day a conversation with a Tibboo of Tibesty. How interesting itis to talk with the natives of those untrodden countries, to whichchance may some day lead us! He says Tibesty is ten days from Gatroun, and fourteen from Mourzuk. It is all mountainous, except one long wadywhere the population is located. There is no regular town; but all alongthe valley the population, which is said to be about 5000, though desertstatistics are little to be credited, is scattered in groups of three orfour, cultivating the ground and tending on the flocks which feed on therich herbage, whilst goats scramble for food along the slopes of theboundary mountains. The people dwell either in huts or in cavernsscooped out of the sides of hills, some of them very extensive. What apicture of primitive life! Families living separate, not yet driven tohide behind walls, or congregate in masses for safety. The desert istheir bulwark. This place lies, indeed, far east of the caravan routefrom Bornou. There is no road direct eastward from Tibesty, but caravanscan go south-east to Wadaï. The valley produces, besides other grain, agood quantity of ghaseb, which is the principal food of the inhabitants. Some palms rise here and there in clumps, but are not very productive;and dates are imported from Fezzan. The tree most frequent is thetholukh; but there is also another common tree, called the arak. In theopen country, the wadan, the gazelle, and the ostrich are found, and thepeople hunt them with dogs. Good water is supplied by wells and streams, in sufficient quantities to irrigate the fields of ghaseb, wheat, andbarley. Rain is abundant some years, but fails in others; torrents arecontinually descending from the mountains: one stream flows through aspace of two days' journey. If these accounts be correct, the countrymust be one of the most interesting in Africa. They say, that on accountthe height of the mountains some of the inhabitants do not see the moonfor fifteen days together. A Sultan rules paternally in thisout-of-the-way country, where the Mohammedan religion reigns paramount. My informant made me pay three Tunisian piastres and two commonhandkerchiefs for a vocabulary of the language of the Tibboos ofTibesty. A visit to this singular oasis might repay a hardy traveller;but the people of the country have a faithless character, and it wouldbe dangerous to trust to their promises of protection. 

The Tibesty Tibboos must not be confounded with the Tibboos of thesalt-mines of Bilma, who have recently made their submission to thePorte. There is little connexion between the people, although they speaka similar language. The Bilma Tibboos lie in the direct route to Bornou, and were fully studied by the Denham and Clapperton expedition. 

_15th. _--Continue to prepare papers to send home. Report the fact, thatthe functionaries of Mourzuk trade in slaves. 

_16th. _--I had lent Mustapha a sword; but, after keeping it a night, hewas obliged to return it, sending word that a firmân had been written toall the functionaries of the Porte, forbidding them to receive anypresents, --an excellent measure, doing credit to the Sultan'sadministration. The great plague of the East is the system of briberycarried on under the form of presents. The pay of the Pasha is sixhundred and fifty mahboubs per month, nearly all spent in the town. 

_17th. _--The weather is extremely hot and sultry. The sun burns theumbrella if you pass for a few minutes under it. Even the nativescomplain of the extreme heat of the weather. 

_18th. _--Not quite so oppressive; but, as Dr. Barth says, the south windblows throughout Northern Africa in May. 

_20th. _--This morning, the black who came with us, and had two wives, divorced one of them, returning the woman's dowry of thirty-sevenTunisian piastres. The divorce took place before the Kady in the openstreets. 

_21st. _--Haj Lameen came to see me. He does not forget to remind us thatthe Tuaricks expect many presents. I have no doubt they do. He says wemust be generous at all the following places:--Ghât, Aheer, Aghadez, Damerghou, Zinder, Minyou, Tesaouah, Kashna, Kanou, Sakkatou, Bornou, Begharmi, Mandara, and to the Tibboos of Bilma; not to mention theintermediate towns and villages. However, if the presents be valuable, we may expect in some places rations of food in return. It is worthy ofremark, that this said Haj Lameen, brother of the governor of Ghât, tookan oath during the past year that he would never again purchase slaves. This is a remarkable instance of the progress of opinion. I afterwardsgave Lameen a present, consisting of one pound of tea, five pounds ofcoffee, and four heads of loaf sugar. This was the first considerablepresent I made. In the evening we observed Mercury in conjunction withVenus. The heavens were unusually bright for Mourzuk. We saw alsoJupiter's satellites at seven in the evening. The two upper ones weremuch nearer than the two lower ones to the great planet, but all in aline. Mars was very bright. The rings, or extinct volcanoes of the moon, were also truly transparent this evening. Usually the sky of Mourzuk ischarged with a dirty red haze, and not at all favourable to astronomicalobservations. 

_21st. _--The culture of water-melons is progressing for the summerseason. The melons are planted in the irrigation ducts that lead to thesquares of clover, which is cultivated at this season for the horses ofthe cavalry stationed here, and also for the camels of the merchants. Every fifteen or twenty days a fresh crop is ready, all produced byirrigation. 

The fig-tree is found frequently in the gardens of Fezzan, and whenplanted near a well, produces as fine fruit as those on the coast. Therich green of its leaves is very refreshing to the eye. During thepresent season, however, the greater portion of the gardens is devotedto onion-raising. Whole fields are covered with this vegetable. Parsleyis running to seed. The korna is also seen in the suburbs. Few birdsvisit the gardens of Fezzan, which are all planted with palms. One ortwo groves have been recently added, and are distinguished as the "newtrees. " The irrigated beds are covered with palm-shoots, the curvingfan-like leaves bending prettily over the ground. 

The winnowing of grain is conducted in the most slovenly manner. Theripe ears with the dry stalks are thrown on the sand, and thenhalf-a-dozen donkeys are driven over them--an animated threshingmachine. The grain, of course, mixes with the sand, and is separatedfrom it with considerable loss and waste of time. 

The sandy soil of the gardens is sometimes mixed with a large quantityof salt, which gives it a firm consistence. Of this soil the houses ofthe city are built. Rain would melt them; but this blessing never coolsthe scorching atmosphere of Mourzuk. [4]

 [4] Showers of rain are subsequently mentioned, however; and it is a mistake to suppose that the hard blocks of fossil-salt mixed with earth, of which the houses in the oases of Northern Africa are often built, can be so easily melted down. --ED. 

In this day's agricultural and horticultural walk I fell in with thenymphs of the gardens; or, in other words, the washerwomen of Mourzuk. They come out constantly to the wells, when the irrigation is going on, early in the morning or late in the evening, and thus take advantage ofthe supply of water raised. They are all dark women of the city, for themost part unlovely and very dirty in appearance, despite theiroccupation. Their system of washing is the primitive one practised bythe labouring classes all over the north of Africa. They roll up theclothes into a round flat heap, and then with their heels keep up acontinual round of treading, using for soap a peculiar sort of clay. Some of the girls are very impudent and immodest when a stranger passesby; but as a rule they are not so. The wells at Mourzuk are not allgood; some are fresh, others salt. In many places will be found a wellof very sweet, delicious water; and running nearly to the surface, attwenty paces distant from it, are found others really quite salt. Thesame phenomenon has been observed at Siwah, in the Libyan desert. 

One of our party received a present this morning of some fresh and mostdelicious leghma. A good deal is drunk in Mourzuk, in an acrid state, for the purposes of intoxication. 

In the evening I went to see the acting Pasha, with the Consul. Hereceived us with his usual urbanity, and gave coffee and lemonade twice. He mentioned the things which a functionary of government was permittedto receive as presents, --viz. , two sheep, twelve pounds and a half ofbutter, fifty eggs, and two fowls. This to be received once only from afriend. But some of the functionaries say they can receive a cantar ofbutter, if divided into sufficiently small quantities, and spread overseveral days. 

People all admire the clock I purchased for the Sultan of Sakkatou, togive him instead of the chronometer. When it strikes the hours, I tellthem it speaks various languages, at which they are greatly astonished. 

Yesterday evening, a shower of bats made their appearance at dusk. 

_22d. _--I went with Dr. Overweg to visit the Pilgrims. We had previouslyexamined the head of one of them phrenologically. The news had beenspread in the tents, and the whole troop came to have their craniumsstudied on our arrival amongst them. This science--if such it can becalled--tickles the fancies of people hereabouts, being suited to theircapacity. One fellow wished to know from his head whether he should gainmuch money this year. They looked upon the matter as a species offortune-telling. 

_23d. _--The Pilgrims' heads must have itched all night. Here they areagain to have them handled! All the polls in Mourzuk will probably passunder our hands if this goes on. It is singular that the pilgrimage toMekka has not nourished sufficient fanaticism to prevent these goodpeople from allowing an infidel doctor to make free with their crowns, and expatiate on their passions and propensities. There is nocalculating on the strength of the impulse of curiosity. 

_24th. _--The Queen's birthday. At eight o'clock Mr. Gagliuffi fired amusket, and hoisted the British jack and pennant over the Consulate. Atnoon, fifty-one discharges of muskets and matchlocks announced theauspicious event to the natives of this city, and to the Tibboos, Tuaricks, Soudanese, Bornouese, and all other strangers of the Saharaand Central Africa. In the evening, the Consul gave a dinner to ustravellers and to the Pasha and his officers. The healths of herMajesty, the Sultan, and the King of Prussia, were drunk in champagnewith enthusiasm. There were thirty or forty dishes on the table, andamong them a turkey, the first ever killed in this city. Mr. Gagliuffihad recently brought a cock and hen from Tripoli. A small saloon wasdecorated with banners and cotton-stuffs of Soudan, with variousdevices. Amongst these were a small portrait of her Majesty; an Ottomanblood-red flag, with its crescent and star; and a white flag with thePrussian black eagle. The effect was excellent, and quite astonished thenatives. The Turks ate and drank famously, and for the most part got"elevated. " When in this state it was curious to see them clawing at theviands, utterly forgetful of Eastern gravity and decorum. I mustobserve, however, that Mustapha Bey himself and one other officerdeclined to drink wine. The Turks seem very tolerant to one another inthis respect. It is left as a matter for the decision of every man'sindividual conscience. These sensible people do not think that, becausea man is inclined to be an ascetic himself, he is bound to force allother people to be so likewise. 

_25th. _--I took a walk in the gardens this evening, and came upon two orthree small circular orchards, having within the circle simply room forholding water, like a shallow pond, with fruit-trees, vines, fig-trees, and pomegranates clustering around. These orchards, when thus formedclose by the well-side, are very luxuriant. People now begin to sowghaseb, ghafouly, dra, and such grains, which are reaped in the summerseason. Barley and wheat are sown in autumn or winter, and reaped inspring. As I walked I noticed that the sky was darkly overcast, as ifthreatening rain; and presently, sure enough, a few precious drops fellon the thirsty sandy soil!

I observed a new plant, large, with broad and smooth thick velvetyleaves, but omitted to write down the name. It produces a milky juice, with which the people dye the palms of their hands, instead of withhenna. The plant has a disagreeable odour, and every appearance of beingpoisonous; but they say it is not so, being only bitter in taste. 

_26th. _--In my morning's walk I had the coolest weather experiencedsince our arrival at Mourzuk. The wind was from the north-east and thesky much overcast. It actually rained, --a slight shower of ten minutes'duration. How gratefully the trees seemed to spread their leaves tocatch the pleasing drops! The gardens and groves all wore a happy smile. We hear, that lately a great deal of rain has fallen in the Ghâtdistrict, and on the route to Aheer. 

The people are preparing to thresh their corn, and I was interested inobserving all the details of their process. They had scattered yesterdayevening the full ripe grain in its dry stalks over the ground, in theform of a large circle, to the depth of about two inches; and had thensmoothed the sand all around in small ridges, so that if a thief cameduring the night they might observe his footmarks. They thresh out thegrain by means of four or five asses or camels tied abreast, and drivenround and round over this primitive floor. Great waste is occasioned byallowing the grain to mix with and sink in the sand; the task ofwinnowing is most difficult afterwards. 

_27th. _--This day I had some conversation with Boro, the Sheikh ofAghadez, about the country and localities of Aheer, --a Saharan kingdomnever yet explored, and which we intend to traverse on our circuitousroute across the desert. It appears that Aheer is the general name ofthe whole cluster of towns and districts; that Aghadez is the medineh, or city; and that Asouty is a town on the line of the caravan route toSoudan, --a regular halting-place. Asben and Asbenouah are other namesgiven to this same territory, and do not denote other countries. TheTibboos and Bornouese describe the whole territory of Fezzan as Zoilah, a name derived from that of the ancient capital, Zoueelah. These doublenames have hitherto caused great confusion in laying down unvisitedplaces in the desert. If we can penetrate and explore the kingdom ofAheer or Asben, it will be doing a great service to geography. 

_28th. _--I am studying rural life in the neighbourhood of Mourzuk, as ifit were to be my occupation. Scarcely a day passes that I do not escapefrom the crowded town and wander, either morning or evening, into thegardens, the groves, and the fields. The water raised by rude machineryfrom the wells is always dancing along in little runnels. The chatteringof women crosses my path right and left. Groups of labourers orgardeners occur frequently. A man this day valued a date-palm at amahboub, and I am told that the greater number are not worth more than ashilling of English money. To avert the evil eye from the gardens, thepeople put up the head of an ass, or some portion of the bones of thatanimal. The same superstition prevails in all the oases that stud thenorth of Africa, from Egypt to the Atlantic, but the people areunwilling to explain what especial virtue there exists in an ass'sskull. We go sometimes to shoot doves in the gardens; but these birdsare very shy, and after the first shot fly from tree to tree and keepout of range. So we stroll about making observations, to consoleourselves for the loss of sport. We noticed several cotton-bushes, butthis useful plant is not cultivated here except that it may ornament thegardens with its green. I have just eaten of the heart of the date-tree. It is of a very delicious bitter, and is a choice dish at feasts. 

I met with a number of the suburban inhabitants engaged in celebrating awedding. First came a group of women, dancing and throwing themselvesinto a variety of slow, languid, and lascivious postures, to the soundof some very primitive string-instrument. Towards this group all thewomen of the neighbouring huts were gathering, some merely asspectators, others bringing dishes of meat. Beyond was a crowd of men, among whom was the bridegroom helping the musicians to make a noise. These musicians were an old man and old woman, each above ninety yearsof age. The latter beat a calabash with a stick, whilst the former drewa bow over a single string tied to another calabash. The bridegroom hadgot hold of a brass kettle, with which he supplied his contribution tothe din. Preparations for supper were going on; and, the harmonyannouncing this fact, idlers were coming in flocks from the distanthamlets and the fields. Two new huts had been built, one for the brideand the other for the bridegroom. 

These marriages produce very few children, which may partly arise fromlicentiousness, but chiefly, no doubt, from misery. I afterwards saw theburial of an old lady, which ceremony set the whole town in motion. Thewomen screamed in crowds, and a great number of men went outside thewalls to see the body consigned to its last resting-place. Yusufpretends that the burial took place two hours after decease, which isthe ordinary practice here, although thirty-two hours are said to be theproper time. 

To the 21st of May I was occupied in preparing a short report on Fezzan, with statements of the expedition and other necessary documents. 

We have had a grand dinner at the house of the Greek doctor Paniotti. The Bey, Bim Bashaw, his adjutant, the treasurer, and others wereinvited. The French have boasted of the number of their dishes, but Ithink the Turks beat them hollow in this particular. Besides two wholelambs, fowls, pigeons, there were at least twenty made dishes, withevery variety of rich sweetmeat. Amongst the early fruits of the seasonwe had figs and apples. The dinner was not quite so merry asGagliuffi's, the champagne being absent. 

We had a smart rain-shower in the morning, and in the evening also therewas a tempest of wind and lightning, and a little rain. The flashes werevery vivid, and lighted up the whole firmament. 

The Tibboos persist in saying that there is plenty of water in theircountry, abundance of rain, frequent springs; and some go so far as todescribe their streams as running a distance of from one to eight days'journey. They acknowledge, however, that the soil of their country isnot very favourable to much cultivation of grain and fruit. Perhaps theywant to attract visitors, but are not likely to succeed at present. Justly or unjustly, they bear a very bad character; and in Mourzuk, tocall a man a Tibboo is rather worse than to call a man a Jew in Europe. 

_June 1st_, Post-day. --Letters, private and public, were forwarded. Itis now determined that we shall start for Ghât next Wednesday; at anyrate the Germans talk of doing so, whilst I am inclined to wait forHateetah and his escort. It would be imprudent to run the risk of adisaster at this early stage of our proceedings, and my greaterresponsibility renders me more cautious, and perhaps more timid, than myenthusiastic companions. I am engaged in finishing my last despatchesand reports, collecting Arabic descriptions of Fezzan, one of which isby the Bash Kateb, and corresponding on the future expenditure of theMission. The weather has become very hot with the advancing season, butI am now pretty well used to the heat. The thermometer has risen to103°; in Bornou it rarely exceeds 105°: I may hope, therefore, to bravethe sun's rays under or near the line. 

Few incidents worth recording mark the latter days of our stay atMourzuk. I paid a visit to Abd-el-Kader, the Sheikh of the Pilgrims. This holy person is quite humanized, and talks freely of the politics ofthe Barbary coast. He entertained myself, the German, the Greek doctor, and Gagliuffi with tea; and this at _sunset_, when all the otherpilgrims were at their prayers. He is a Tuatee of Gharai, and has beenmany times to Mekka in his present capacity. Indeed he makes the journeyabout once every three years. The pilgrim caravans travel very fast; noothers can keep up with them. On leaving any place where they havehalted, the Sheikh has the privilege of demanding the release of two orthree prisoners; and the scandalous whisper that any Barabbas cansometimes obtain his liberty by a judicious investment of presents. Whenencamped near a town, moreover, the tent of the Sheikh becomes aninviolable asylum for every criminal who chooses to take refuge there. Many other privileges equally valuable are enjoyed by this functionary. Abd-el-Kader himself is an extremely urbane gentleman, and we retiredquite satisfied with our reception. He gave me a vocabulary of theTuatee dialect, and some account of the statistics of the place, which Iforwarded to the Foreign Office. It appears that formerly the people ofTuat paid to the Algerines five hundred camel-loads of dates and ten_necks_ of gold, i. E. The gold ornaments sometimes worn round thecamels' necks. When the French made their conquest, they sent to theTuatees to renew their tribute to them as the actual masters of Algeria. The answer returned was, "Come and take the tribute!"

_11th. _--The gardens continue to attract my evening strolls. Every oneis now busy sowing ghaseb, and I passed a half hour in working with somecheerful labourers at the preparation of the ground, smoothing the soilin the squares for irrigation. They were amused at my voluntaryindustry. I sleep now late of mornings after my evening exercise in thegardens, and find myself the better for it. 

Perhaps the first melons ever eaten at Mourzuk appeared on Mr. Gagliuffi's table about this time; they were very good. 

_12th. _--The Germans were preparing to start early in the morning; theyare obliged to lighten everything, and reduce each camel load to two anda-half, or even two cantars. The Tuaricks will not carry more; generallytheir maharees are small, and they have few stray camels. The Germanswent off in good style and great spirits. They propose to accompany acaravan of Tanelkum Tuaricks, who go by way of Aroukeen, leaving Ghâtfar on the right. I was not able to persuade them to delay theirdeparture, so that we might all travel together: but it may be expectedthat they will not find it so very easy or safe to get through thiscountry without the special protection of those who claim authority overit. 

Two or three days of gheblee succeeded--unpleasant weather to be out inthe desert. I found it bad enough at Mourzuk--100° in the shade at fouro'clock in the afternoon. Hateetah was reported to be on the road; so Idetermined to wait five or six days for him, and thus not deviate frommy original plan. 

I went to visit the wife of Mohammed Es-Sfaxee, who goes with us toSoudan as a merchant, carrying a considerable quantity of goods onaccount of M. Gagliuffi: this gentleman accompanied me. The object ofour visit was to see whether the Sfaxee had left a sufficient quantityof provisions with his wife to support her during his absence. It isnecessary to take such precautions with these Moors, who oftenbarbarously abandon their families, without any adequate provision, formonths and even for years together. We found that he had left dates, wheat, and a little olive-oil and mutton-fat--the ordinary stock of allfamilies in Fezzan. Only a few rich people indulge in such luxuries ascoffee, sugar, meat, and liquid butter. 

An Arab saying: "You must always put other people's things on your head, and your own under your arm. Then, if there be danger of the thingsfalling off your head, you must raise your arm, and let fall your ownthings to save those of others. " I do not know what things I shall letfall of my own; but this I know, that during my whole residence inMourzuk my mind has been continually occupied in endeavouring to saveGovernment money. But I have received little assistance. 

The weather still continues hot, with wind from the south: however, Iwalked in the gardens. On the 16th, the boat went off to the caravan;the camels carried it very easily, to the astonishment of the goodpeople of Mourzuk. On the 17th, the thermometer was at 102° in theshade--in the sun, about 130°. We received letters in answer to thosefirst written from Mourzuk, and learned that all the despatches writtenon the road for Tripoli had arrived in safety. The Arabs, therefore, arenot quite so bad as they are represented. 

_20th. _--At length Hateetah may be said to be reported "in sight, " andwe are busy preparing for departure. The escort has arrived at Tesaoua, and will be here on Saturday at latest. As the Germans are still atTuggerter, we shall proceed on the Ghât route together, after all: itwill be a tough piece of work, whichever way performed. The heatcontinues intense--from 100° to 104°, and 130° in the sun. Coolerweather is expected in August; but at present all the natives complain, and fevers are becoming prevalent. In the desert we shall escape thatdanger; for disease comes only in the moist depression of the plateau onwhich Mourzuk stands. We hear talk, by the way, of a fine newroute--only forty days--just opened, from Ghât to Timbuctoo, across thedeserts of Haghar. The present Sultan of the Haghar Tuaricks is calledGhamama. 

One of our party, who undertook to accompany us to take the managementof the boat, has not proved equal to the occasion; and I have thereforewritten to Tripoli, to request that two Moorish sailors, of Jerbah ifpossible, should be sent up by the direct route to Bornou. I had almostengaged a very excellent person at Tripoli, the captain of the vessel inwhich I arrived; but when he called at the Consulate on the subject, some minor official ordered him off with a contemptuous "Barra! barra!"and he accordingly yielded to the solicitations of his crew and embarkedwithout seeing me. There is too much of this self-sufficiency andoff-handedness in all Consulates in the Levant, where a grain ofauthority is apt at once to magnify a man, in his own estimation, into amighty potentate. I regret my Jerbine captain very much; he originallyvolunteered to accompany us, and entered into my plans with anenthusiasm and intelligence rare among Muslims. 

These small details of our expedition are interesting to me to record, though probably many will think them superfluous. Perhaps they willserve to give a true idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, and ofthe great responsibility which weighed upon me, and thus prove ananticipatory excuse for any accusation of shortcoming or dilatorinessthat may be preferred against me. I will not, however, enter furtherinto the business-details of the expedition--merely observing that, among other things to which I had to attend during my stay in Mourzuk, were, in the first place, to collect provisions and stores for a journeythat may last two years; secondly, to purchase presents for the princesand other distinguished persons of the interior; and thirdly, to provideagainst the casualties of the journey, payment of salaries, &c. Allthese things I had to do on my own responsibility. Among other things, Ihave purchased from Mr. Gagliuffi an Arab gun and pair of pistols, inlaid with silver and curiously wrought, for the sum of 180 mahboubs. This is for a present to the Sheikh of Bornou, who will expect somethingpleasing to the eye as well as the boat, which he may at first, perhaps, not appreciate at its full value. 

I have already made a good many casual allusions to our plans andarrangements; but it will be necessary here, before our departure fromthe last city that acknowledges the Ottoman authority, to make a briefstatement of our position and prospects. Things that already appearclear to me may not be so to others. During my former visit to Ghât, when I travelled as a private individual, known as "Yakōb, " I madeacquaintance with Hateetah, a Tuarick Sheikh, who had assumed the titleof Consul of the English. It is the custom in that country for everystranger on his arrival to put himself under the protection of one ofthe head men, to whom alone he makes presents, and who answers for hissafety. Mr. Gagliuffi had written to him to come with an escort toprotect our party as far as Ghât. It appears, however, that very grandaccounts had circulated in the Sahara on the magnitude and importance ofour mission; so that it was impossible for one Sheikh to monopolise us. Hateetah, therefore, had come, accompanied by two sons of Shafou, thenominal Sultan of all the Tuaricks of Ghât. Wataitee, the elder of thetwo, is very plausible, and undertakes to accompany us as far as Aheer. It is to be observed, that the Tuaricks of this place have hithertonever ventured to come to Mourzuk; and it is considered wonderful thatthey have come for the first time at the summons of infidels. 

My first plan was, to proceed by the direct route to Aroukeen with theGermans and the Tanelkums, and from this place make an indispensableexpedition to Ghât. But circumstances compel me to march direct to thatplace by the common road. Our escort is to cost us dear, but it willensure our safety. These Ghât Tuaricks, however great they may talk intheir own country, are really very poor; they subsist almost entirely onthe custom-dues levied on caravans. Wataitee himself said, "I am the sonof the Sultan, it is true; but I have nothing. If I stay in my country, I do not feel my necessities much; but if I must escort you to Aheer, then I must be well-clothed and fed, or else the people will say, 'Behold the son of Shafou, how poor and miserable he is!'" Besidespaying about two hundred Spanish dollars for the escort, I have had tofeed all the people, and furnish them with tents. They had led me toexpect much more reasonable treatment; but there is no help, and I feelthat I am not yet at the end of my troubles of this description. Withthese prefatory remarks, I enter upon an account of my departure fromMourzuk for the oasis of Ghât. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Wars in the Interior--Anticipated Disputes--Mr. Boro of Aghadez--OurTreatment at Mourzuk--Mustapha Bey--Start for Ghât--Row with theEscort--Fine Weather--Leave Tesaoua--Sharaba--Travelling in theHeat--Hateetah and the Germans--The Camels--Snakes--Journeycontinued--Nature of the Country--Complete Desert--Rain--Overtakethe Caravan--Interview with Boro--Pool of Ailouah--TheTanelkums--Halt--Birds--Bir Engleez--Wind in the Desert--BeggingEscort--Brilliant Heavens--News from Ghât--The Pilgrimsagain--Bas-relief of Talazaghe--Moved over theDesert--Mountains--Extraordinary Pass--Central Table-land of Fezzan. 

Hateetah has brought stirring intelligence: the Sultan of Bornou is atwar with his brother. Ten thousand Tuaricks of Aheer have gone againstthe Walad Suleiman; and, taking advantage of the opportunity, theTuaricks of Timbuctoo are marching from the other direction to fall upontheir brethren of Aheer. Quarrels of kites and crows!--Yes, to those ata distance; but it is too much to hope that our caravan will prove alark's nest in some Saharan battle-field. We must pray that a generalpeace shall be proclaimed in Central Africa during our march across thedesert. 

However, we must not be frightened by rumours, and, indeed, are not. Wepass from discussion of this warlike intelligence to bargain withHateetah, who, as I have hinted, seems inclined to play the Jew, orrather--to speak in character--the Tibboo with us. It will cost a largesum to pass through Ghât, and obtain an escort to Aheer. As aconsolation, we learn that we are to be persecuted by Boro Sakontaroua, sheikh of Aghadez, who is displeased that he has received no presentsfrom us. It would appear that the letters of Hassan Pasha rathercompromised us to employ him as our escort; but I am not responsible forthis, having never deviated from the original plan of procuring anescort from Ghât. Indeed, I wrote to that effect immediately on myarrival in Tripoli; and it would not do, after keeping my friends in theoasis in a turmoil all this while, to disappoint them. The desert hasits etiquette as well as the drawing-room, and infringements might berather more dangerous here. 

The new acting Pasha has made the Tuaricks a present of some burnouses. This, whilst lessening perhaps the comparative value of what we havegiven, at any rate lays the chief under some obligations to the Turks, and assists in making up a good round sum in payment for the trouble ofcoming all the way from Ghât to Mourzuk to escort us. 

By the way, Mr. Boro of Aghadez has been fetched back from hisencampment at Tesaoua by a man on horseback. The business was of someconsequence, according to the notions of these people. He had sold afemale slave, and the poor woman was now found to be _enceinte_ byBoro's son, with whom she had been living as concubine. The law soondespatched the affair, and compelled the Sheikh to restore thepurchase-money and take back his slave. 

A last observation on Mourzuk, before leaving it behind in this Saharannavigation. All the Ottoman authorities have treated us with attentionand respect. Mr. Gagliuffi has been hospitable, and the people generallyhave proved courteous in their behaviour. It is rare to remain so longin a place and have so few causes of complaint. Justice, however, compels me to say, that the British Consul sometimes remembered toovividly that he was also a merchant, and a Levantine merchant to boot. Iam afraid he is not quite satisfied even with the profits he has alreadymade out of the expedition. Is it possible, however, for Easterns, orpeople who live in the East, to look upon a Government as anything but amilch cow? Mustapha Bey, who took a very affectionate leave of me, isnow engaged in examining a tremendous case of peculation--something likea defalcation of two thousand mahboubs. He is quite bewildered for thetime. The Greek doctor came to see us off; but we started in a littleconfusion, for Mr. Yusuf Moknee was drunk, as he was nearly all the timeof our stay at Mourzuk. 

I left Mourzuk on the 25th of June, late in the evening, and proceedinguntil midnight, stopped at a little cluster of palms, with two or threeinhabitants, called Thurgan. Then rising at daylight, and starting atonce, I passed Om-el-Hamam, and reached Tesaoua about nine in theevening. I found that the Germans and the Tanelkums had gone on inadvance some days, but not so fast that we could not hope to overtakethem. The hurry and bustle attendant on the preparations for startinghas rendered me rather indisposed; I was quite unwell on the 27th. Nextday, however, I could receive Hateetah and the son of Shafou, and have acivil row with them. I had to ask them whether they would travel bynight, and what they would agree to do if any one fell sick. To thefirst question they promptly answered "No, they would not;" but to thesecond, that in case any one was very ill indeed, they would wait alittle for him, or travel in the night. I said that this was not exactlywhat I wanted, and that in case of sickness the expedition must bestopped. They recommended me to go to Ghât, and there remain twenty daysuntil the great heat had passed, allowing the Tanelkums to go on. Thisadvice is worth reflection: but perhaps we may not suffer so much fromthe heat as I anticipate. We came to a tolerable understanding, and itwas at length agreed that we should start on the 29th. 

The weather is now cool, the wind often blowing _round_ in the course ofthe day; it rarely blows _through_, as at sea. On the way from Mourzukwe had hot and cold blasts together; but now we are out in the desert, we find the climate much more temperate than in the city. I hope andpray that I shall be able to bear up against the heat. 

What a magnificent sky we had last night!--never did I behold the starsin greater glory. The Scorpion was brilliant, if not fierce; and theconstellation on his right shone splendidly. At about eight o'clockJupiter was setting towards the horizon like a sun!

_29th. _--We left Tesaoua at length, at three in the afternoon. The boatand our servants had gone on before with the Tuaricks, who prefer nottravelling in the dark, if possible. We can often start after them inthis way, and catch them up by pushing on some hours after sunset. Ourcourse lay south this evening. The heavens, before the rising of themoon, had a most luminous appearance; Jupiter was seen only about anhour above the horizon, and the Milky Way was very conspicuous, but ateight o'clock described only a small segment in the heavens. 

We reached Sharaba at eight, and halted. This is a sandy valley, withherbage for the camels; the water, not very good, is a few feet from thesurface, and issues from some rocks. There are no date-palms about thewell, as reported, but a few stunted ones are found a mile or two higherup. The surface of the desert is broken into small mounds, crowned withthe ethel-tree. 

Sunday, the 30th, was a cool day for the desert, yet sufficiently hotfor me. We left Sharaba at a quarter past six in the morning, and made agood day of nine hours. These confounded Tuaricks will travel in theheat, and encamp in the cool. At three in the afternoon, just as theweather was becoming quite fresh and pleasant, we halted. The wind, occasionally strong, blew from the north-east, whilst our course laysouth-west, across a broad valley. The sandy ground is covered with thetholukh-tree, which affords a grateful shade in the season. This valleyis very broad here, only one side being visible at once to the eye. 

The Tuaricks are growing civil enough, and companionable. LuckilyHateetah and the son of Shafou do not drink coffee or tea--a saving. Hateetah, however, is always begging; he says he will go to Aheer, andappears to consider his escort indispensable. According to him, theGermans, who are pushing on ahead, run great danger. Yusuf tells me thathe is, in reality, extremely angry with my companions for proceedingalone. He wishes, perhaps, to get a present from them too; and swearsthat he knows nobody but Yakōb (my desert name). They are notEnglish, he says, but French. Besides, they have got twenty camel-loadsof goods, which he will seize if they do not pay him something. Ofcourse this is all harmless bluster, and means nothing. He confessesthat, being on Fezzanee ground, he has really no claim upon caravans atall; but he is a greedy old rascal, and would take any advantage hecould. The same gentleman says that Sakonteroua is only a chicken in hisown country--quite powerless; if this be the case, his enmity is not ofso much consequence as I feared. 

The camels of the Tuaricks usually go well, and make good hours, becausethey are not allowed to eat on the road. They all march in strings, onebeing tied behind the other; each string is led on by servants orslaves. Thus, when once loaded, there is little difficulty on the way. When seen at a distance, they resemble a moving mass of troops, especially when the mirage multiplies their long files. _Our_ camels, however, being all Arab camels, cannot be made to go in strings, and arealways staring about for something whereon to browse. 

I begin to feel better in health. If we could but encamp for three orfour hours during the heat of the day, I have no doubt I should get onwell enough. There was talk of serpents to-day; I saw none on thisroute, however. People at Mourzuk are occasionally bitten by lêfas andscorpions, and death ensues often. Ammonia has been tried with successas a cure. 

_July 1st. _--We were astir at the encampment a little after daybreak:but it takes usually two hours to get off, although we have but sevencamels. I hope our people will be quicker after a little more practice. The heat was very troublesome; and nothing could keep the Tuaricks fromgoing on all through the day, for ten hours and a quarter, withoutstopping. Our course was along the broad wady, which resembles animmense plain. On the surface of its sandy bed are scattered pebbles andblocks of sandstone and limestone, but the former chiefly. There wasnothing to please the eye but the delicate tints of the line ofsand-hills on the left--a faint yellow, at times mingling with the skywhen very luminous; and the round tholukh-trees, scattered like blackspots on the light sand of the valley. A little mirage figured a dark, black lake, which, however, sparkled with light under the trees. Fewanimals were seen: a young camel, left to graze in the valley, followedus most cheerfully this morning. 

We passed two or three wells in the course of the day, at a place calledKouwana, with water near the surface, and obtained some by scraping outthe sand; we did not, however, take any up, because it was not verygood. Caravans seldom use these wells. No doubt there is water to befound everywhere throughout the wady, which by a little care might beturned into an oasis. Perhaps it was one in old times. There is now noencouragement to cultivate any stubborn ground. 

_July 2. _--Two hours in getting off again! We started at six and went onuntil past five in the afternoon, following a south-west course alongthe same wady, with the same low line of sand-hills on our left, andsand and the low edge of the plateau, which the people say extends manydays' journey, on our left. This valley is so shallow that it mightalmost be considered as part of the plateau, and is, in fact, nearly ona level with it; the temperature tells us we are on very high land. Itis cool for this season, and the Tuaricks even complain of chilliness atnight. Sometimes I am disposed to think the hot weather is passed, butwe must take into account the strong breeze blowing from the north-east. 

The broad bed of the valley is covered with pebbles of sandstone, between which glanced a few, very few, lizards. Rarely did any livingthing cheer our eyes as we moved along this dismal track. Now and thengazelles, in threes and fours, went scouring away far out of reach. Oneor two small birds fluttered from stone to stone; and some crows cawedat us from a distance. This is true Fezzan scenery. The mirage and allits illusions cloaked the plain in various directions, as if seeking tohide its dull uniformity. 

However, this desolate region has really been of late visited by rain, as we had been told. We encamped towards evening near a great standingpool, which, if the weather remain moderate, will supply the caravansfor months to come. A shower is a vulgar occurrence in Europe, receivedby most men, except agriculturists, as an annoyance. In the desert ithas all the value of a heaven-sent gift. It is shed not periodically;but at intervals of time and place suddenly descends in copiousdrenchings. We often came upon spots which had been ploughed up as by atorrent from the skies; and few rocks in the Sahara are withoutwater-marks. The rain-water at our camping-ground has an excellentflavour, and I drank of it eagerly. 

Round this pool we at length found the caravan waiting for us to comeup. The Germans and all others were well, except the Sfaxee, troubledwith a little fever. Mourzuk is a bad place to break down the health andspirits, and those that became faint-hearted there would probably havepersevered had they got out into the bracing air of the desert. TheTuaricks are very quiet. I sent word to Hateetah that it was impossiblefor him to take presents from the Germans, as it was contrary to theorders of Government. Shafou's son is very mild and circumspect. 

Here also was Mohammed Boro, and although I had written strongly toTripoli about him, I considered it advisable after all, immediately onarriving, to try and make friends with him. So I paid him a visit, andtold him that when the Tuaricks had conducted us to Aheer we should, ofcourse, place ourselves under his protection, that we might proceed toSakkatou. I sent him, also, some hamsah and dates. This gladdened himmuch, for he is very short of provisions, and has many servants withhim; amongst the rest, two or three female slaves, one of whom, a fat, buxom girl, must require prodigious nourishment. 

When the pool of Ailouah is not filled by rain-water, recourse is had toa well near at hand, which supplies sufficient quantities. How importantare wells in the desert, and how one learns to mark their existence!

The valley which we have been traversing three days from Sharaba toAilouah is called Barjouj, and is remarkable for the tholukh-trees, which are scattered here and there throughout its whole extent. We arenow seven days from Ghât, and, about the same distance from Aroukeen;but the Tanelkums, who go slowly, make thirteen days between this andAroukeen. They go direct, as we intended to do, without touching atGhât. Our movements are not exactly free, but we must not seem to noticethis circumstance; and if they insist on our taking the route by thecapital, in order to have an opportunity of increased plunder, must givein with as good grace as possible. 

The 2d and 3d of July we stopped at Ailouah. Hateetah came to my tentthe first day with a long face, and said, as I foresaw, that we must allgo to Ghât, and abide the pleasure of the Tuaricks; also that we mustwait for the return of a caravan from Aheer. I protested against thislatter pretence, and he got up and went off in a pet. Next morning Isent word to his tent that I could not stay at Ghât an indefiniteperiod; that my means would not allow me; and, therefore, that we muststill protest against this arrangement. He answered, that he wouldassemble all the notables of Ghât and ask their counsel. To this I couldhave no objection, and we are friends again. But I keep as far from theTuaricks as I can, and do not visit them. I find this to be the bestpolicy. We feed them every night, and they are apparently contented. Theweather continues cool, the wind being always partly from the north. 

Many birds, crows and others, pretty large, were seen about the wells ofAilouah; and a rival sportsman to Dr. Overweg appeared in the person ofMohammed et-Tunisee. He shot three small fowls of Carthage, one of whichhe gave me, I promising him a little powder in return when we came toGhât. We noticed a small black bird with a white throat. But all throughthis desert we listen in vain for some songster. There is no reason formerriment in these dismal solitudes. 

Our people have dug a well, which the Tanelkums promise to call "BirEngleez, "--the English Well. Good water was found easily, near thesurface at this station. 

_4th. _--We started late, and made only a short day; but herbage for thecamels is only found hereabouts. Our course was, as usual, south-westover an undulating plateau, with an horizon now near, now distant. Thesurface of the ground was for the most part blackened sand, stonepebbles, and some blocks of very bad stone. The weather continues, freshand pleasant. We did not feel the heat until some time after noon; andas we halted early at Ghamoud, suffered nothing. The wind--which wenotice as if on ship-board--now comes always from the east, generallywith a point north. It seems to be a sort of trade-wind throughout thisportion of the desert. I begin now to read on the camel's back, and findthis a pleasing relief from the jog-trot monotony of the movement. I amanxious to read the whole of the Bible in Hebrew on the camel's back. Our friends the lizards were still glancing along the ground in thebright sunshine, but in diminished numbers. 

Hateetah is always begging, and now asks for burnouses for the GhâtSheikhs, Khanouhen, Jabour, Berka, and his brother. He still pretendsthat the Germans must give him a present, and that he knows no one butthe English. In compliment, and to soothe him, I said, "You must dressin all your fine clothes at Ghât. " This awakened his vanity, and heseemed delighted with the idea. His reply was, "You also must one daydress in all your best clothes--one day--only one day. " I replied, "Ihave no fine clothes;" at which he seemed puzzled. Turning theconversation, he said I must change all his Tunisian piastres intodollars; which I shall certainly not do. This Consul of the English is atremendously grasping fellow. 

The Tanelkums all give the son of Shafou a good character. We partedwith them this morning. They take some loads of dates for us, and havegone to Aroukeen, where they will wait for us six days, and then leaveus; that is, if we do not come up. They will be twelve days, they say, on their journey. We go by a different route to Ghât, and shall see butnot enter Serdalous. This place is now thickly inhabited by Tuaricks, and Hateetah does not wish to come in contact with them, for fear ofexciting their curiosity and cupidity. So he is a knowing old dog afterall. Our Tuaricks are displeased that the Germans have encamped so farfrom us this evening. The ground is a narrow slip of wady stretchingeast and west, almost on a level with the plateau. There is a littlehasheesh (grass), with two or three young tholukh-trees. Venus shonewith uncommon splendour this evening, eclipsing all the majesty ofJupiter. We are looking out for the Southern Cross, and think we see itjust emerging above the horizon ahead. In the day, the heavens have oflate been hazy. 

They tell us, that on leaving Ghât we shall _descend_ to Soudan; yet wecan not have reached very high ground. We may soon likewise expect tofeel the influence of the Soudan rains, and find the atmosphere muchcooler in consequence. How the days are shortening now, and how gratefuldarkness gradually expands its dominions over this arid, scorchingwaste, as we move south!

On Friday the 5th we only advanced two hours, to a place calledTalazaghee, --a small picturesque wady, where, during the season of rain, there are always two or three pools of good water; there is also now alittle herbage for the camels. During our ride we met a small slavecaravan, and learned the important intelligence that there are severalpeople of the Sultan En-Noor of Aheer at present at Ghât with slaves. This will be useful to us. I wrote to my wife and others by thisopportunity, and trust the missives will reach their destination. Theweather is cool and pleasant to-day; and we are led to hope that thegreat heat of summer is already past. The wind followed exactly behindus as we pursued our south-west course. On arriving we found, rather toour surprise, the pilgrim caravan, and our old friend Abd-el-Kader. Theyhave been some time reposing in Wady Gharby collecting provisions, and, I imagine, passing their leisure hours with the Fezzanee ladies, whichthey could not very well do in Mourzuk. The morality of these people iseasy enough, and no doubt the pilgrimage covers a multitude of sins. 

Talazaghee is remarkable for some bas-reliefs cut on the naked sandstonerocks of the wady, in a very peculiar style; the principal tableau, if Imay so call it, about four feet by three in size, is a battle betweentwo persons, one having a bird's head, and the other a bullock's, with abullock between them taking part in the fray. Each person is holding ashield or bow. The sculptures are mere outline, but deeply graved andwell shaped. There are several other tableaux, representing animals, butchiefly bullocks. This would seem to intimate, that in the days whenthese forms of animals were chiselled bullocks were the animals employedfor the transport of men and merchandise over the desert. No camelsoccur, as in other tablets. These sculptures are very properly said byour escort to be neither Arab nor Tuarick, but belong to the people thatexisted before these races. The principal tableau has a very Egyptianlook about it; the oxen are well formed, and would do credit to a modernartist. There is one bas-relief figure of an ox with its neck in acircle, as if representing some of the games of the Circus. The otheranimals most distinctly seen are ostriches; the rocks around are, besides, covered with Tuarick characters, but nothing interesting. 

We started late on the 6th, for the Tuaricks had allowed their camels tostray, and we waited some time for them: however, we were obliged, afterall, to start without them, and having made five hours and a halfhalted. Our course had lain over the plateau, which about half waybecame broken up into valleys. One of these, called Anan Haghaneen, ledus into the pleasant and picturesque wady of Mana Samatanee, where onlyin this part of the route can be found herbage for camels. There arealso a few tholukh-trees. What a desolate region is all this, despitethe little spots of vegetation! There are no signs of animal life, except traces of the wadan. For two days, they tell us, we are to havelittle or no water. Now and then we pass desert mosques, --square, orcircular, or cross-shaped walls of stone, some with two entrances, builtfor the devotion of chance passengers. The mountains on the east arecalled El Magheelaghen. To-day we carried my trunk with the money. Yusufhad previously given it in charge to a camel-driver, and the Tuarickswere always uneasy, asking to see if all were right. Europeans wouldprobably have done the same under similar circumstances. 

On the 7th we made a good day of about eleven hours, continuing duringthe first three in shallow wadys, down one of which we had a distantview of the plain of Serdalous, on the north-west. Then came thebreaking up of the great plateau of Fezzan, and we entered a pass whichleads down into the subjacent Sahara, and runs west with an inclinationto the south. This is, perhaps, one of the most extraordinary naturalfeatures I have ever beheld. It seems to have been purposely cut out ofthe solid rock for the use of man, and reminds one at first of a railwayexcavation. As we advance it assumes the form of a cave, slightly openat top, --narrow, winding, and furnished with seats on either hand. A dimlight comes from above. Only one part was difficult for the boat. Nowand then the pass became quite a tunnel, but the concave roof is highenough for any camel to pass. On the sides, here and there, were Tuarickinscriptions; but there was nothing remarkable revealed by thisadmirable geological section. It was mostly sandstone for the upperstrata, with narrow streaks of marl and chalk. Some slate was observed, and frequently our way lay over beds of red clay. An agreeable surpriseawaited us occasionally, in the shape of little openings containinggroups of the tholukh; but the general aspect of the pass was horribleand desolate, and we eagerly pushed on towards the end. There wasnothing, apparently, to support life; but we found and caught a youngfox: how the little wretch procured food was a mystery which our guidescould not explain. However, life no doubt had its joys for him, and welet him loose in the plain below. I also picked up a dead bird, of aspecies common in the desert, with white head or cap, and white tail, except the upper feathers; all the rest, legs and bill, black. It isabout the size of a lark, but has a head like a blackbird. We supposedthe one found had died from want of water, though it may have beenkilled by the mother of the young fox. 

On emerging from the pass at length we found a considerable change oflevel, and having advanced a little way turned back and obtained asplendid view of the walls of the plateau, which stretched on both sidesabove the plain, and thrust out lofty bluff promontories, as into thesea. The upper lines of some of them were perfectly straight, as iflevelled by artificial means. We came to a solitary rock on the plain, containing excavations that seemed to be the work of men. Here, we weretold, Dr. Oudney once stopped and breakfasted. 

We have now a pretty correct idea of the great central table-land ofFezzan. It is an elevation, not quite clearly marked to the eye on someof its northern approaches, but dropping sheer to the plain at otherparts. Mourzuk is situated in a sandy depression on its surface, whichwould probably be turned into a salt lake if there were sufficient rain. The limits of the hollow, as of that of many others--Wady Atbah forexample--are not noticed by the traveller. Whether he approaches orleaves Mourzuk, he seems still to be traversing a level plain, and onlyfinds his mistake by noticing the change in the nature of the ground, the presence of marshes, of green vegetation, and of a heavy, stiflingatmosphere. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Plain of Taeeta--Fezzan Boundary--Fossils--Tuarick Behaviour--Valley ofTabea--Observations--Fasting--Tuarick Habits--Scorpions andLocusts--Visitors--Heat--Roads--Hot Wind--Pass of Abulaghlagh--ThePalace of Demons--Wheat hid in the Desert--Land of Demons--KasarJanoon--A dear Camel--Visit to the Kasar--Perilous Adventure of Dr. Barth. 

On the 8th we pursued our course over the monotonous undulating plain ofTaeeta, to which we had descended. It was a little hotter, because lowerthan yesterday; and the country is more parched, more arid, moredesolate, than ever. No herbage for camels is found in these parts, andwe had been compelled to carry some with us from Wady Haghaneen, and towake up with dates, of which the camels ate voraciously as a treat. Beetles and lizards were the only living things we saw. 

Next day, the 9th, we rose before sunrise and made a good day of ninehours, still over the same plain of Taeeta. About three hours before wereached the well of Tabea we crossed the real boundaries of the Fezzaneeterritory, although the Tuaricks seem to claim the pass on the mountainsas their own. The weather was hot, there being no wind. On theseoccasions the afternoons are very oppressive, and the sun causes hispower to be unpleasantly felt until an hour before sunset. 

From the plain to-day we had a view of the Ghât mountains, which seem ata distance to present different forms and characters from the high landson the edge of the plateau of Mourzuk. The bed of the undulating plainof Taeeta is covered with pebbles and blocks, of both sand andlimestone. Yesterday I picked up some fossils of the star-fish--thefixed star-fish, having branches by which it holds to the bottom of thesea. Some fossils of vegetables were also found. Two or three hoursbefore reaching the well we descended rapidly into a broad, deep wady, where were the recent marks of a waterflow. The camels all went well, ours faster than the Targhee; but these latter, not being allowed tostray, always make, as a rule, better and more regular journeys. 

The Tuaricks themselves are getting more civil. Hateetah already entersinto the idea of a treaty of amity and commerce: he says he will fix theamount the English merchants are to pay when they attend the mart ofGhât. The son of Shafou is always represented as a very good fellow; heis growing more and more civil and companionable. This evening I gavehim a small pair of good scissors, which much delighted him. As for theother Tuaricks, Hateetah excepted, I make it a rule to refuse what theyask, otherwise I should be annoyed every day with their importunities. Hateetah says we must lodge at Ghât with Haj Ahmed, the governor, outside of the town, to be out of the way of the begging Tuaricks. Headds, "Always keep the door shut, and when any one calls out forpermission to enter say 'Babo, '--(No one at home!)"

The Germans, like myself, find the fatigue too great to enable them tocontinue their observations and writings with regularity. We must not beextravagant of our health and strength at this early period of ourexpedition. 

The valley of Tabea is a pleasant place, having herbage for the camelsin abundance, as is the case wherever the ethel-tree is found. There areseveral wells with water near the surface, and others might no doubt bedug all over the wady. Our encampment looked picturesque this evening. It is the eve of Ramadhan, and our people fired shots here and there tocelebrate the occasion. 

_10th. _--A halt was arranged for this day. I took the opportunity towash and change all my clothes, which I do every three or four days, ifpossible. Mr. Hateetah, however, would not allow me to carry on mydomestic arrangements in peace. He came grumbling as usual, wantingscissors, razors, &c. I cannot fill this craving abyss to the brim. Ourpeople fast to-day; but to-morrow, probably, they will not, as the lawdoes not require them to do so when actually travelling. 

I have left Doctors Barth and Overweg to take the compass-direction ofthis route. To do this when with them would be useless for me, but whenI leave them I must then do all the work I can. Now, it would be onlyaccumulating on my shoulders useless labour. Besides, they will alwaysdo this kind of thing much better than myself. The same observationapplies to the thermometer. It would be well, however, if I practisedtaking observations with them. But we are all sufficiently worked, andcan assist one another but little in these matters. 

The wind has been variable for the last three days, --in the evening, generally N. E. In the afternoon it begins to move round, until it blowsfrom all the points of the compass. To-day we have hot wind or gusts ofwind. It has been very hot, 105° Fahrenheit under the tent. 

Our people suffer much from their fasting. But the Tuaricks do not fast, and seem to look with scorn upon the Moors and blacks for doing so. Yusuf says _he_ shall not fast when he in _en route_. A camel has brokendown on the road, and it is found necessary to kill it, to prevent itsdying. Hateetah has given out his decree for its sale. The Tuaricks areto purchase half and we half of the carcase, at ten reals, or fiftyTunisian piastres. Of our five reals the Germans take one and a half, and the Sfaxee a half. This will make it lighter for me. Our people madea regular feast of the camel's flesh, some of them sitting up andgorging till midnight. Their noise did not disturb me, for I had slept agood deal in the day. 

I had done very little indeed but sleep and lie down. We felt the heatseverely at noon. A gust of hot wind nearly carried away our tent. 

The Tuaricks use spoons, and do not eat with their hands like the Arabsand Turks; but the latter pretend that the Tuaricks never wash theirhands at all, whilst they, before and after eating, always take thisprecaution. In saluting, the Tuaricks do not spread out the fingers muchwhen they raise their hand, but present the palm and fingersoutstretched to you. One of these gentlemen, whom I call the noisy one, has got a poor little slave-boy, about seven years of age, who workslike a man, and goes quite naked. 

To-day I found a young scorpion in the canvass-case of my writing-desk;he cocked his tail in a hostile attitude, as if daring any one to touchhim. In his tail seems to be all his power, and so of all the scorpionhost. Yesterday was taken a locust: this destructive insect is not bredin the desert. In this bare and thirsty region there is nothing for theyoung ones to eat, and the old ones likewise would soon perish in theSahara. They are bred in the cultivated fields near the desert, or inthe fertile lands of the coast, as in the neighbourhood of Mogador, where millions of the young have been seen, like so many small greenbuds of trees. 

Dr. Overweg made an excursion to the Ghât mountains, or rather thesmaller hills or offshoots from the range. He found them sandstone, butvery singularly formed or broken into huge blocks--some like the masseswhich I saw on the route from Ghadamez to Ghât, with a very narrow base, on which they might turn as on a pivot. 

_11th. _--We stopped here another day. We were to have started in theafternoon, but the Tuaricks had some visitors come to see them, anddetained us for their own comfort and amusement. I am not sorry for it, as we have had a tremendous gheblee. All the day I felt it extremelyhot, and so have all the people. I was obliged to lie down on the floorof my tent nearly all day; but I have so arranged my table that I put myhead under it, which gives additional and most important protection fromthe sun. All these little expedients must be resorted to in travellingover the desert, and may sometimes save a man's life. It is surprisingwhat protection a piece of cloth or linen, or a piece of board, inaddition to the tent, will give against the intensity of the sun'sfierce rays. The Moors and blacks of the coast seem to suffer as much asthe Europeans. 

There are two ways from this wady to Ghât--a difficult, and an easy butlonger one. I and the Germans go, with Hateetah and Shafou, thedifficult one; and we leave the heavy luggage and the caravan to go theeasy route. This, at least, is the arrangement talked of this evening. The morrow may bring something new. 

The Tuaricks who arrived to-day expected a supper: Hateetah sent to theGermans to find them one; the Germans referred them to Moknee; and weprovided. 

We must take care we do not have too many customers of this sort, or weshall never get up to Aheer with the present stock of provisions. 

To call the wind under which we are suffering _gheblee_, is a perfectmisnomer; for the hot wind of to-day and yesterday came directly fromthe _north_, "Bahree!" As Yusuf said, however, when I told him where thewind was from: "Where now is the sea? It is a long way from the sea. "

The thermometer was 106° Fahrenheit in the shade of the ethel to-day. Weshall rarely have it much hotter than this. In Bornou there is rarelymore than 104° in the shade. 

_13th. _--Saturday. [5] The morning is advancing and the Tuaricks are notyet moving. These Azgher are sad lazy dogs. It appears they have changedtheir minds, and we are all to go the long and easy way. The sun isrising in haze with a little wind. The heavens now are frequentlyconcealed by vapour. Yesterday we had clouds in abundance, oftenshrouding the sun--a wonder for the desert in this season!

 [5] The 12th is missed, and Dr. Richardson notes in his journal that the date is to be rectified backwards; but he does not say where the rectification is to begin--ED. 

We started rather late, about seven A. M. , but made a long day, continuing till sunset, or twelve hours. Our course was north-north-westfor three or four hours, on the plain towards Serdalous, and thenentered the pass of Abulaghlagh; which, though represented as plain andsmooth as the hand by Hateetah, was sufficiently difficult and rocky forthe boat-laden camels. The beginning of the pass was remarkable for anumber of curiously-formed sandstone rocks, several of them swinging orresting on a small base like a pivot, and others cleft asunder, asstraightly and clearly as if cut by a knife. Our course along the passwas west, but when well through it we turned round southwards towardsGhât. 

Immediately on clearing the pass we saw the celebrated Kasar Janoon, orPalace of the Demons; of and concerning which the people had beentalking all day: we had then the range of hills or mountains to ourleft, and some sand-hills on our right. Dr. Overweg at once discoveredwe were in a new region, or zone. The mountains on the left are composedof slate-marl, and not sandstone, as before stated by myself and Dr. Oudney. Overweg considers them of a very peculiar character and isdelighted with their castle-like and battlemented shapes. But we shallhave much to say of these marl-slate mountains, coloured so beautifully, and looking nobly to the eye. 

Before entering the pass of Abulaghlagh, Hateetah hid some of his wheatunder the rocks to lighten his camels. I joked him, and told him I knewhis hiding-place, and would return and fetch the wheat. All over thesehills things are hidden, and often money, which is sometimes lost forever, the owner dying without pointing out his hiding-place. There wasno herbage for camels to-night, but we had brought a little hasheeshwith us. A strong wind set in towards evening and continued nearly allnight, preventing us from sleeping. We were much exhausted by our day'smarch, and so were all our animals; they suffer much from these longstretches. We gave them dates, as we give horses corn. 

_14th. _--We rose before daylight, and got off by sunrise, continuingtill about two hours after noon. The wind was so exceedingly strong, blowing from the south-east, that we did not feel the heat of the sun. But now and then we had strong gusts of hot wind, like the breath of afurnace. I tied a thin dark cotton handkerchief over my eyes, and foundgreat relief. 

Our course is now south, over a high sandy plain. We are at lengthfairly in the Land of Demons, as the country of the Ghât Tuaricks iscalled by themselves. All around, the mountains take castellated forms, and high over all rises the Kasar Janoon, Palace or Citadel of the Ginn:a huge square mass of rock, said to be a day in circuit, and bristlingwith turret-pinnacles, some of which must be seven hundred feet inheight. Nothing but its magnitude can convince the eye at a distancethat it is not a work raised by human hands, and shattered by time orwarfare. Its vast disrupted walls tower gigantically over the plain. Here, as in another Pandemonium, the spirits of the desert collect fromplaces distant thousands of miles, for the purpose of debate or prayer. It is a mosque as well as a hall of council, and a thesaurus to boot, for unimaginable treasures are buried in its caverns. Poor people loveto forge wealthy neighbours for themselves. No Tuarick will venture toexplore these Titanic dwellings, for, according to old compact, thetribes of all these parts have agreed to abstain from impertinentcuriosity, on condition of receiving advice and assistance from thespirit-inhabitants of their country. In my former visit I nearly lost mylife in an attempt to explore it and was supposed to have been misled bymocking-spirits: little did I think that this superstition was about toreceive another confirmation. 

The Kasar Janoon, and all the mountains around, were wrapped this day inhaze, but loomed gigantically through. We proceeded, still in sight ofthis enchanted castle, over the plain, which was perfectly bare andarid, until we arrived at Wady Atoulah, where we found the beneficentethel and some good pickings for the camels. Not pausing long here, weproceeded another hour, and encamped in Wady Tahala, just in front ofthe imposing Kasar, and full in view of the mountains of Wareerat to theeast. 

The camels suffered much during the day's march. The Tuaricks hadanother knocked up, and we two, --that of the blacks and one which I hadpurchased of Mr. Gagliuffi. The latter could not bring his load, and wewere obliged to relieve him of all his burden; a great disappointment tome, for I bought the animal as a strong one, to go up to Soudan. It wasa dear bargain, in comparison with the other camels which I purchased inMourzuk, --costing thirty-eight mahboubs and a half. I must recover themoney, and cannot allow Government to lose it. All our other camels cameon well, even those which cost me much less. The other is still behindwhilst I write: it is an old, worn-out, black Egyptian camel, and costonly eighteen dollars. 

I did not feel so much exhausted to-day as usual. I always take tea andcoffee on encamping, which restores my senses at least, and does me muchgood generally. I dissolve mastic with the water during the hot hours, and to-day drank at least three pints, but ate little. 

The well is east from our encampment two hours, and under the mountains. There is encamped the Sfaxee, who went by the more difficult route, toarrive at Ghât before us; but it seems he will be disappointed. Hecame by the pass by which I returned formerly from Ghât toMourzuk, --certainly too difficult and narrow for the transport of theboat. 

_15th. _--I rose early, and marched about three hours and a half to thewell, under the Kasar Janoon; that is to say, four or five miles alongthe base of the eastern wall of the Kasar. But this day's adventuresdeserve more particular chronicle. 

The Germans had determined to go and examine the Kasar, and were aboutto start just as I came out of my tent. They had had some altercationwith Hateetah, because, partly for superstitious reasons, he would notgive them a guide, and they had made up their minds to undertake theexploration alone. I saw Dr. Barth going off somewhat stiffly byhimself; Dr. Overweg came to where I was standing, and asked Amankee, mySoudan servant, about the well near the Kasar, and then also went off. He said to me, "I shall boil the water on the highest point, and then goalong the top to the other end. " He was taking some points of the Kasarwith the compass, and I observed to him, "Take the eastern point. " Thenhe started. Yusuf called out after him, "Take a camel with you, it isvery distant. " Distressed at seeing them go alone, I told Amankee thatif he would follow I would give him a present. He agreed, upon thecondition that he should not be expected to ascent the Kasar; for hefeared the Janoon. We then gave him dates, biscuits, and a skin ofwater, and he started after Dr. Overweg. I confess I had my fears aboutthem. On arriving near the well, we pitched tent near an immensespreading old ethel, which afforded us some shade. I watched thechanging aspect of the Kasar nearly all the time of our three hours'ride; and could not help thinking that the more it was examined the moremarvellous did it appear. I then looked out to recognise the place whereI was lost four years ago, and at last I thought I could distinguish thelocality. The day wore on. It blew gales of hot wind. No Germansappeared, although it had been told them that we should only stop duringthe hot hours of the day. However, I anticipated that they would notarrive before sunset. Hateetah sent word, that as there was little waterhe should not move on till to-morrow. This was good news for theGermans. 

At last, about five o'clock P. M. , Dr. Overweg appeared. He hadexperienced great thirst and fatigue; but, having the assistance ofAmankee, he got back safe. He at once confessed his fears for Dr. Barth. I began to think this gentleman must either have gone to Ghât, or thatsome accident had befallen him. Soon, indeed, we began to have gloomyapprehensions, and to talk seriously of a search. The Tuaricks were notvery civil, and Hateetah threw all the responsibility of the safety ofmy fellow-travellers on me. Dr. Overweg and several people went out insearch of Dr. Barth just before sunset. 

Night closed in; no appearance of our friend. I hoisted a lamp on thetop of the ethel, and made large fires as the sun went down, in hopesthat their glare might be seen at a distance from the Kasar. Ourservants returned without Dr. Overweg. He had promised to be back bysunset, and I began to fear some accident had befallen him likewise. 

The evening grew late, and Hateetah came to me, in a very nervous state, to inquire after the Germans. I endeavoured to compose him by tellinghim the responsibility was on us, and not on him. Dr. Overweg returnedat midnight. He had thrown into the desert various pieces of paper, onwhich was written the direction of our encampment from the Kasar. Wewere very uneasy, and slept little, as may be imagined; but before weretired for the night Hateetah arranged a general search for themorning. 

Next morning, accordingly, at daybreak (16th), the search was commenced, by two camels scouring the environs of the desert. Dr. Overweg went withone of the parties, but returned at noon, bringing no news of Dr. Barth. Amankee with his party had, however, seen his footsteps towards thenorth. This was most important, as it directed our attention that way, and we thought no more of his having gone to Ghât. We now calculatedthat our companion had been twenty-four hours without a drop of water, agale of hot wind blowing all the time! Dr. Overweg proposed to me thatwe should offer a considerable reward, as the last effort. He mentionedtwenty, but I increased the sum to fifty dollars. This set them all towork, and a Tuarick with a maharee volunteered to search. I found itnecessary, however, to give him two dollars for going, besides theproffered reward; he left at two P. M. , and all the people were sent offby Hateetah a couple of hours after him. 

This was a dreadfully exciting day. I confess, that as the afternoonwore on I had given up nearly all hope, and continued the search merelyas a matter of duty. Few will be able to imagine the anguish of losing afriend under such circumstances in the wide desert, where you may forever remain uncertain how he came by his death, whether by the spear ofa bandit, the claws of a wild beast, or by that still more deadly enemy, thirst. Just before sunset I was preparing fresh fires as a last resort, when I saw one of our blacks, the little Mahadee, running eagerlytowards the encampment. Good news was in his very step. I hastened tomeet him. He brought the joyful intelligence that Dr. Barth had beenfound, still alive, and even able to speak! The Tuarick whom I haddespatched, in scouring the country with his maharee, had found himabout eight miles from the camp, lying on the ground, unable to move. For twenty-four hours he had remained in the same position, perfectlyexhausted with heat and fatigue. Our fires had not been unmarked by him, but they only served to show that we were doing our best to find him. Hecould not move a step towards them. On seeing his deliverers, he couldjust muster strength to say, "Water, water!" He had finished the smallsupply he had taken with him the day before at noon, and had from thattime suffered the most horrible tortures from thirst. He had even drunkhis own blood! Twenty-eight hours, without water in the Sahara! Ourpeople could scarcely at first credit that he was alive; for theirsaying is, that no one can live more than twelve hours when lost in thedesert during the heats of summer. 

Dr. Barth was now brought back to the camp. He had still a supply ofbiscuit and dates with him; but eating only aggravates the torture ofthirst. Moist food is fitter to carry on such occasions. We found rumvery useful in restoring his health. 

_17th. _--The Doctor, being of robust constitution, was well enough thisday to mount his camel, and proceed with the caravan. We advanced aboutseven hours, and then encamped. To-morrow, a ride of a couple of hourswill take us into Ghât. 

CHAPTER X. 

Approach Ghât--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of aformer Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--TheSheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetingsof Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised onus--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmeddisinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and furtherAnnoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek andthe Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection ofDialogues--The Great Exhibition. 

We were up early on the morning of the 18th, and prepared to make ourofficial approach to the town of Ghât, which was now distant only twohours. I had already visited the place, and was familiar with itsaspect; but must introduce a few words of description for the sake ofthe reader of the present narrative. Ghât is situated on the spur of alofty hill, which overlooks it from the north. It is surrounded bymiserable walls not more than ten feet high, pierced by six weak gates. The houses are not whitewashed, like those of Moorish towns, but retainthe dirty hue of the unburnt brick and mud with which they are built. Asingle minaret worthy the name, and one large building used as a generallodging-house, rise above the flat roofs of the rest of the town. Somefew palm-trees bend gracefully here and there; but, in general, thegroves of the oasis are a little distant from the walls. There is asuburb of some fifty houses of stone and mud; and a number of huts, madeof straw and palm-branches. The whole oasis is not more than three milesin extent; the gardens produce only a little wheat, barley, and ghaseb, with some few kinds of fruit. Good water is supplied by wells; but allthe palm vegetation is stunted. 

From the hill that overlooks the town, a fine view is to be obtained ofthe little oasis and the vast extent of desert that encircles it onevery side. Far to the south wave in the air the summits of thepalm-groves of Berket, on the way to Aheer. To the west, hills andridges succeed one another to the horizon; and to the east, above a lineof glittering sand-hills, rises the unbroken wall of the Wareeratrange--the rampart thrown up by the demons to protect their favouriteTuaricks from the inroads of the conqueror. The contrast of the brightgreen of the oasis with the stony waste beyond is striking; and when thesun sheds its bright rays over the scene, it may really be calledbeautiful. 

But these are reminiscences. This day, as soon as we saw the townappearing over the trees between the rocks, we hailed it with delight;not, however, as the termination, but as the starting-point of ajourney. Beyond, southward, everything to us was unknown, and, webelieved, to all Europeans. Every step further, then, promised to be adiscovery. Should we be allowed to proceed unmolested? Would noobstacle, natural or artificial, intervene? Much would depend on ourreception in Ghât. On my former visit I had not, on the whole, reason tocomplain of the Sheikhs of the Tuaricks, whose chief place this is. Iremembered the venerable Shafou, the dashing Khanouhen, with Jabour, andall the others, from whom I had received what might be called kindness. Hateetah, it is true, had hitherto somewhat disappointed me; and I knowthat great expectation had been already aroused in this little secludedterritory of profit to be made out of my mission. Whether I should beable to meet all demands was a serious question with me. I am pleased tosay that the Governor's son came out to meet us, and conduct us to thehoused of his father, who, with several of the notables of Ghât, wereassembled, and gave us, in truth, a cordial reception. 

It may be as well to remind the reader that Ghât is a small town whichhas grown up in the territory of the Azgher Tuaricks, in consequence ofthe convenience of the place as a station for the caravans from SoudanProper, and other points of Central Africa. It is inhabited principallyby people of Moorish origin, but mixed and known as Ghâteen. Haj Ahmed, the governor, is also a Moor, born at Tuat. He is a marabout, or saint, but is looked up to by the people for the settlement of all municipalconcerns. The Ghâteen derive their subsistence almost entirely from thecaravans, although their little oasis is not unfertile. 

But the political authority of the country resides entirely in the handsof the Azgher Tuaricks. Azgher is the name of the tribe or nation, andTuarick is a generic title, which scarcely implies even community oforigin, assumed by nearly all the wandering people of the Sahara. Thereare the Haghar Tuaricks, to the west of Ghât and south-west towardsTimbuctoo; and the corresponding people of Aheer are called the KailoueeTuaricks. At Timbuctoo itself are found the Sorghau Tuaricks. 

The chief of the Tuaricks of Ghât is nominally the venerable Shafou, whose son came with Hateetah to escort me from Mourzuk; but the virtualsultanship resides in Khanouhen, the heir-apparent, or son of Shafou'ssister: for this is the order of succession in Ghât. Every Tuarick, however, is in some sort a chief, and more or less influence is acquiredby age or personal qualities. The principal men have divided the sourcesof emolument which the peculiar position of their country supplies themwith. Hateetah claims to afford protection to all private Englishtravellers, and to receive presents from them; another patronises theinhabitants of Tripoli, a third those of Soudan, and so on. Thisarrangement enables a visitor to the place to calculate with somecertainty about the amount of obligation he incurs. All the Tuaricks areeasily distinguished by their habit of wearing a litham, or muffler, with which they conceal their mouths and all the lower part of theirface. This custom gives them a strangely mysterious appearance. 

The house of Haj Ahmed, the governor, to which we were conducted, issituated three parts of a mile from the town, which I did not enterduring my stay. It would not have done to expose myself to the familiarimpudence of the people, who had known me during my visit under verydifferent circumstances. Besides, my time was fully taken up withbusiness matters; so fully, that I scarcely had time even to write oneor two brief despatches to Government. 

On the morning of our arrival at Ghât all seemed to promise well. TheGovernor welcomed us with hospitality, and his slaves unloaded ourcamels, and quickly conducted us to our apartments. At noon, although itwas Ramadhan time, we received some dishes of meat, with figs, grapes, and molasses--really a sumptuous repast. We were not allowed to go outthe first day. 

The next morning there was a general meeting of the Sheikhs and peopleof the town in our apartments; and from the turn affairs began to take, we found it necessary to despatch a courier to Aroukeen, to beg theTanelkums to wait a few days for us at that place. During the meetingbegan the first prevarication of the Tuaricks. The son of Shafou saidthat he did not agree to conduct us to Aheer--an assertion wecontradicted strongly. At length he exclaimed: "Although I did not agreeto this, I will nevertheless conduct you, "--making a new favour of anold bargain. 

When the meeting separated, there was another affair brought on thecarpet by Hateetah and Waled Shafou. They boldly demanded seventy reals, or small dollars of Ghât, for the passage of our liberated blacks toSoudan. I declared that I would not give them a real, and told them toseize the people if they chose. Hateetah upon this went off in a rage, and Waled Shafou stayed behind, pretending to seize our servants. We didnot take any notice of him, and at last he likewise departed. Mr. Gagliuffi had not been able to arrange this affair at Mourzuk, --it beingleft in this position, "that they (Hateetah and Shafou) would saynothing about the matter; but that if others did, we should pay alittle. " The man who has a right to this tribute from freed blacks isnow absent from Ghât, and any claim ought to be made in his name by hisrepresentatives. When the Governor heard of this affair, he sent to tellus "to arrange the matter, and give something to these dogs ofTuaricks;" at the same time expressing his sorrow for such a shamefuldemand: and shameful it was, because we had already paid for ourselvesand our servants three hundred reals. Besides this sum, Hateetah andWaled Shafou had each of them received a present of about a hundredmahboubs. Finally my friend, Haj Ibrahim, the merchant, undertook toarrange this business, and paid on our account twenty-eight reals morefor our servants. 

On the morning of the 20th there was another general meeting, and Ipresented the treaty for consideration. A long discussion followed, butI at first misunderstood the conclusion to which the Sheikhs came. However, the following day we had a regular debate, the result of whichwas that the Sheikhs and heads of the town declared they could not cometo a final arrangement until the winter souk (market), when all thenotables would be assembled. 

A great deal of unpleasant discussion occurred during all thesemeetings, and I had to fight my way step by step. The Shereef was firston my side, but as I had promised him a present only if the treaty weresigned, and as he saw that this would not take place, he turned roundand became my active enemy. However, it was out of his power to do memuch harm. The greater part of the last days of my stay were spent inagitation about the presents for Jabour, Khanouhen, Berka, and others, some of whom were absent. I said that nothing could be given until theSheikhs and the people of Ghât did something for the Queen--for thepresents were the Queen's presents. Finally, the day before ourdeparture, a great uproar was made on this subject, and I was obliged toyield the point, and give them burnouses. These presents had beenpromised to Hateetah on the road from Mourzuk to Ghât, upon thecondition that the Sheikhs and people would agree to the treaty. Theyhad also been mentioned at Mourzuk; but then, nothing had been saidabout conditions. I considered it highly impolitic to allude to thetreaty in the hearing of the Turks, who would have thought I wassecretly going to enter into an alliance offensive and defensive withthe Ghâteen against them. The Tuaricks, however, stood upon the point, that when the burnouses were promised first, there was no talk of anequivalent, and I was obliged to concede. 

When I had finished distributing these presents, there was peace for thefew hours that we were yet to remain at Ghât. Haj Ahmed, however, seeingand hearing of all this confusion, became alarmed lest I should repeatit to Mourzuk, and refused to take the presents of tea, coffee, sugar, awhite burnouse, and a few large carpet-rugs, which I offered him. Hisson, also, refused what I tendered, a fez and a turban, because it wasnot enough. Everybody in Ghât who expected a present from us, seemeddetermined to be satisfied with nothing less than a burnouse. TheGovernor wished to appear perfectly disinterested amidst this confusionand these extortionate demands of the Tuaricks. I was not sorry for therefusals, for really I have ten thousand people to give presents tobefore I return from the interior. 

I do not consider that, after all, Haj Ahmed treated us so well as hemight have done. The first dinner was good; but the others were poor, and some of it I could not eat at all. He was disappointed at my notbringing him a printed Koran; but I could not, on this occasion, makesuch a present. 

Hateetah, in all these disputes at Ghât, has acted a double part. Publicly he was our enemy; but privately he pretended to be our greatestfriend. He was imitated in his conduct by the son of Shafou, who seemedto look upon him as his Mentor. On leaving, Hateetah promised that Ishould see something wonderful which he would do for me, speaking of thetreaty. I am afraid that not much reliance can be placed on these finepromises. 

On the morning fixed for my departure, the Sheikhs and Haj Ahmed, seeingme much grieved, out of health and out of temper, all came forward totry and repair any mischief they might have done me and their ownreputation. They begged me to leave the treaty with them, and promisedfaithfully in the assembly of all the Sheikhs, in the winter, to dotheir best to gratify the wishes of the British Government. They alsoundertook to write private letters themselves, especially Hateetah. HajIbrahim, to whom I presented a watch worth twenty dollars, also promisedto render me all his assistance and influence with the Sheikhs, and tobe my wakeel (agent) in my absence. Jabour paid me a farewell visit, andafter he received his present was very polite and jocular. Yusuf Moknee, as a Tripoline, also paid him six reals; for he is the officialprotector of people from that city, as well as some others. The daybefore, one of his people had seized my Fezzanee servant because he didnot give the usual presents, viz. A barracan and common fez. He was putto "working in water, " as they call it; that is, to assist in irrigatingone of the gardens. After a short time, however, they allowed him toreturn to me. Such are the Tuaricks--grasping, violent, and capricious!I cannot, however, until I see the fate of the treaty, completely decideupon the conduct of Hateetah and the body of Sheikhs generally. 

Mahommed Kafa was one of our best friends at Ghât, and had always asmile to greet us with--a great relief in a country where most of thepeople you meet have a frown on their brows and their mouths closelymuffled up. This man is the most considerable merchant of Ghât, andexerted himself greatly to procure us an escort of Kailouees. I gave awhite burnouse to him and his son. They both sent us a dinner. We werefortunate in finding a party of Kailouees here on their way to Aheer. They have agreed to act as escort, which renders us in some measureindependent of the son of Shafou. 

During my residence at Ghât I received a visit from my old friendOuweek, and also from the old bandit whose acquaintance I made atGhadamez. Ouweek was very complimentary, and shook me cordially by thehands. He observed, "There is no fear in this country; go on in advance:this country is like Fezzan. " I then brought him out some tobacco, and ahandkerchief to wrap it in. As usual, he did not seem satisfied withthis; so I added a loaf of white sugar. He then noticed Yusuf, and thusaddressed him: "Yusuf! I have heard that Hateetah and the son of Shafouare about to conduct these Christians to Soudan. I am a better man thanthem all! Now Hateetah and Waled Shafou will want this sugar and tobaccoon the road. I leave it for them. " On this he started up on two sticks, for he is doubly lame, having the Guinea-worm in both legs, and wentaway hurriedly. I, however, sent the sugar and tobacco after him, andthis time he condescended to accept them. He came to see me mounted onhis maharee (or dromedary). 

To the old bandit of Ghadamez I also presented some tobacco, and he wenthis way. Fortunately there were few Tuaricks in Ghât at this time, otherwise I should have had hosts of such visitors. The absence of thesegrasping chiefs has interfered, it is true, with the treaty of commerce;but it is possible, that even had Khanouhen been present some othershift would have been discovered. There are now present in Ghât only theSheikh Jabour, Waled Shafou, Sheikh Hateetah, Sheikh Ouweek, and HajAhmed, the governor of the town. The Sultan Shafou himself is on theroad to Soudan, and we shall probably meet him in a few days on our way. I have, however, sent this aged chieftain a handsome sword from theEnglish Government, by his son, to whom I gave it in one of the publicmeetings. 

With reference to the treaty, it may, perhaps, be considered in a fairway to be finally accepted. At the winter souk every person of influenceand authority in the country will be present, and in the form in which Ihave presented it, I believe it will provoke little or no opposition. The clauses with reference to religion and the slave-trade have, ofcourse, been left out; the first as unnecessary, the second as dangerousat this early stage of our proceedings. Even already it may be said thatthe market at Ghât may safely be visited by British merchants; foralthough Hateetah may require heavy presents, he will certainly protectthem. 

However, we must bear in mind, that in a country governed in soirregular way, it is very difficult to answer for the future. Thegovernor, Haj Ahmed himself, told me in a deprecating manner, "Ghât is acountry of Sheikhs!" and Hateetah says, half jocularly, "Ghât has thirtySultans!" Fortunately, however, it is the interest of the rulers of thispart of the desert to encourage traffic; they live by it; otherwise itwould be dangerous to trust to their assurances. 

We were in all but seven days in Ghât, so that I had no time to makeresearches. However, I am fortunate in procuring a collection ofdialogues and a vocabulary of most of the common words in the Tuarickdialect of the tribes in Ghât. I employed for this purpose MohammedShereef, nephew of the Governor of Ghât, who is a pretty good Arabicscholar. I have also made an arrangement with my friend Haj Ibrahim toforward to the British Government a small quantity of Soudanmanufactures for the Exhibition of 1851; so that the industry andhandicraft of the dusky children of Central Africa may be representedside by side with the finished works of Paris and London artisans. [6]

 [6] This account of Mr. Richardson's residence at Ghât is copied from a summary in his journal, with occasional insertions from his despatches to Government. It is very brief and imperfect; but the traveller was so fully occupied by various kinds of business during his stay, that he was not able to write, and only threw upon paper a rough memorandum after he had started on his way to Aheer. The imperfection is the less to be regretted, as, up to this point, the Sahara had previously been pretty well travelled and described. He now breaks fresh ground, and is more copious in his notes. --ED. 

CHAPTER XI. 

Start from Ghât--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--LastDate-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--TheAkourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataiteeleaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--RockyDesert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatenedForay from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region ofGranite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--GraniteRocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--OurRelations with the Kailouees. 

The departure from Ghât was, for most of us, an exciting moment. So farI had considered myself comparatively on familiar ground; for although Ihad followed different routes, the great points of Mourzuk and Ghât werewell known to me. Now, however, we were about to enter upon aregion totally unknown, of which no authentic accounts fromeye-witnesses--unless we count the vague reports of natives--had everreached us; valleys unexplored; deserts unaffronted; countries which noEuropean had ever surveyed. Before us, somewhere in the heart of theSahara, raised into magnificence perhaps by the mirage of report, wasthe unknown kingdom of Aheer, of which Leo Africanus hints something, but the names of whose great cities are scattered as if at haphazardover the maps, possibly hundreds of miles out of their right position. What reception shall we meet with in that untried land? In what lightwill its untravelled natives--fierce from ignorance and bigotry--regardthis mission of infidels, coming from latitudes of which they have neverdreamed, with objects unappreciable and perhaps hostile? Will natureitself be hospitable? Are there no enemies in the climate, no perilspeculiar to the seasons? These questions occupied my mind as the caravanwound between the last palm-groves of Ghât; and my camel, resuming itsswinging march, went away with its neck advanced like a bowsprit overthis desert sea, which might be scattered with hidden dangers at everystep. 

The wind does not always serve at the outset of a voyage. Our firststage was only of two hours southwards, as far as Berket, a considerabletown, well walled, situate under a low hill, and surrounded withpalm-trees and gardens. The people visited us on our arrival; all provedtroublesome and some insolent. I had heard a better account of them. Their country is pleasanter than themselves, certainly the mostpicturesque piece of desert I have seen since leaving Tripoli. A rangeof lofty black mountains extends on the east, with mounds of sand andsmaller hills at their base, dotted with the beautiful ethel-tree; palmsrise in abundance on all sides; gardens surround the wells; and animalsfeed about on the plain. The scenery is quite rich, and even suggeststhe idea of fertility. The Tuaricks possess many similar fine valleys. 

We started late next day from Berket, and made only four hours to awell. Here it was necessary to wait for Waled Shafou, and the threeextra camels which we have hired to go with us to Aheer. The sceneryresembles that of yesterday; but there is not so much herbage, and thepalms are absent. Probably the date-palms of Berket are the last treesof this species which we shall see until our return. The olive-districthas long ago been left behind; and now the columnar date-palm is also tobe among the things that were. They report, however, that there is adiminutive species in Aheer. We shall greet this dwarf-cousin of our oldfriend with pleasure. 

We are on our way to meet the Kailouee Tuaricks, with whom we havearranged in Ghât to conduct us by Aheer to Zinder--a service for whichwe have already paid a hundred dollars of the money of Ghât. They are acompany of merchants returning to their own country, and although theywill probably protect us to a certain extent, can scarcely inspire somuch confidence as Waled Shafou would have done. We travelled four hourson the 26th. Dr. Barth was again lost this evening, having pushed on inhis usual eager way for about half an hour. We were filled with alarm. There were two roads dividing at a certain place, one direct and theother turning off at an angle. Naturally, the Doctor followed thestraight road, which proved to be the wrong one. However, knowing he hadgone on before, my fears were awakened when we reached the fork; and Iimmediately fired several guns, and ordered a search to be commenced. The guns not only served as guides to Dr. Barth, but introduced us tothe Kailouees, who were close at hand, and came running to meet us. Their appearance, for I scarcely know what reason, sent a thrill of joythrough our frames; and the weariness and discouragement we had broughtwith us from Ghât disappeared. We entertained great hopes of these newcompanions. The first impression they produced was good; for theygreeted us most cheerfully, and began helping to unload the camels. Theyhave several female slaves with them, and muster in all some twentypersons and about thirty camels; so that, altogether, we shall form avery respectable caravan. 

We rose early on the 27th, and starting at half-past six, continuedmoving until noon, when we encamped in a valley a little before thewater of Akourou, where there is herbage for the camels in a hollowamidst rocky sandstone hills. The scenery of this part of the desertcontinues to be very varied. The range of lofty marl hills, over whichthe sun rises for Ghât, is still seen stretching northwards andsouthwards. Animals feed about here and there; some quails whirr alongthe ground; black vultures, white eagles, and numerous crows, perch uponthe rocks, or speckle the sky overhead. I went to visit the "Water, " asthey call a small lake that nestles amidst the rocks. It is of somedepth, and filled, they say, merely by rain-water, very palatable todrink. Even when no showers occur for several years it does not becomequite empty; and as there is no apparent reason for this, I am led tosuppose it may be partly fed by some spring in the rocks that form itsbed. This lake imparts an unusually cheerful aspect to the valley inwhich it lies. It is resorted to by the dwellers of the neighbouringdistrict, who come to water their flocks, and feed them on the herbagethat springs round the margin. These pools or collections of water arecalled ghadeer, which I at first mistook for the name of a particularlocality. According to Yusuf, this place gives an exact idea of theTibboo country, where, he says, there are no wells, but vast clefts inthe rock, down which pours the water when it rains, to collect in thehollows at the bottom. Our people speak with great respect of thisghadeer. Everything connected with water is sacred in the desert. Theysay that for several weeks after a rain-storm there are regular cascadesover the rocks. 

Next day we advanced in six hours to a wady similar to that we had left;curiously shaped sandstone rocks showed themselves on all sides: nofossils were discovered. Asses in droves were seen feeding about. TheTuaricks possess a good number of these useful animals, brought fromSoudan, of a finer breed than those at Mourzuk. All the domestic animalsof the country are from the same place--the horses, bullocks used todraw the water from the wells, as well as the sheep and asses. Ghât, indeed, is within the circle of Soudan influence; the people dress inSoudan clothes; eat off Soudan utensils; and mingle a great deal of theSoudan language with their Tuarick dialect. We feel, therefore, as if wewere now going towards a centre instead of from a centre. Mourzuk, onthe contrary, holds itself in connexion with the Arabs of the coast; andseems to receive no influence from the interior except by means of theTibboos, who form a kind of connecting link. There is a considerablesprinkling of this curious people in the lower portions of thepopulation of Mourzuk, and there are always some genuine specimens to bemet with in the streets. It may be said, however, that both the capitalof Fezzan and Ghât itself seem rendezvous from all parts of Africa; andI imagine, that in all the souk (market) cities of the interior the samefact will be observed. However, it will remain true, no doubt, thatsouth of Ghât the influence of Soudan will be far more sensibly markedthan on the other side. 

The son of Shafou, Mahommed Wataitee, who seems to have made up his mindto shirk the journey to Aheer, left us this morning to go to Aroukeenand meet his father, who is encamped with his flocks and dependantsaround that well. No doubt it is fashionable in Ghât land to be "out oftown" at this season of the year. Our Kailouees have determined to takeanother and more direct road, avoiding Aroukeen and the Azgher Tuaricksin its neighbourhood. Waled Shafou says, he shall fall in with ussomewhere about Falezlez; but this seems somewhat doubtful. When peopleseparate in the desert they must not calculate on meeting again in ahurry. We parted about three hours from the water of Akourou, the roadto Aroukeen branching off there. He took the easterly route and we thewesterly, and we were soon out of sight. Our way still lay throughdesert-hills, but with vegetation frequently. There was talk of thesmall oasis of Janet to our left; and we indulged in some pastoralreflections on the life of contemplative ease and primitive simplicitywhich would be indulged in in such an out-of-the way place. 

We seem to have got into some scrape with the Kailouees. Besides thehundred dollars which Haj Ibrahim paid them to conduct us from Aheer toZinder, it appears he promised them some burnouses, when we have nonefor them. They mentioned the subject to-day, very naturally. We must doas well as we can. They seem civil enough; but an incident has justoccurred which has much displeased me. 

It appears that when these people came to Ghât, a few weeks ago, theyleft a sick slave with some shepherds among these rocks. To-day theyinquired about the slave, whether she was dead, or what had become ofthe poor thing; but the shepherds refused to give any account, --said, infact, they knew nothing about the matter. Upon this the Kailouees seizeda black boy belonging to these poor people and dragged him along, with arope round his neck, to terrify him into confessing what had become ofthe slave. The poor boy, however, had nothing to confess; so at last, after they had dragged him for some distance, they let him go. Such is aspecimen of the incidents which almost daily occur, arising out of thishorrible traffic. I lectured one of the Kailouees on the subject, andtold him that we were in Tuarick territory, and that such an actionmight bring the genuine Tuaricks upon us. 

It would appear that the governor of the town of Aghadez, or rather ofthe whole Kailouee race, is not known, there having lately been arevolution in this Saharan region. All the country is up in arms. Weshall arrive at the interesting crisis of a change of dynasty. The twoSultans of Aheer known, are our friends En-Noor and Lousou. 

_27th. _--We rose at daybreak and soon started, ascending from the valleythrough a difficult pass to a rocky plateau, over which we pursued ourundeviating track for more than nine hours, and pitched our tents in asmall and nameless wady, covered with a sprinkling of herbage. This wasa trying day for the camels, the ground being rough with loose stones. How different is all this from European notions of a desert, or levelexpanse of sand! With some few exceptions, the Sahara is a regioncovered by comparatively low, rocky hills, forming valleys here andthere, supplied with trees, and herbage, and water. We are now in areally uninhabited spot; scarcely a bird is seen, or a lizard, or abeetle, or any living thing, save a few flies that still follow thecaravan on unwearied wing, and buzz with moderated ferocity about thenoses of the camels. 

What fantastic forms did the rock assume to-day! Now its pinnaclesbristled up like a forest of pines; now there seemed to rise the formsof castles and houses, and even groups of human beings. All this isblack sandstone--hideously black, unlovely, unsociable, savage-looking. 'Tis a mere wilderness of rock, thrown in heaps about, with valleys, ortrenches, or crevices, through which the caravan slowly winds. This isour first cloudy day. May we have many such! We feel little of the sun'spower, although there is little or no wind. We must have reached aconsiderable elevation. 

I begin to find it necessary to keep a tight rein over our servants, otherwise our encampment and party would always be in disorder. MohammedTunisee is a very impertinent fellow at times, and is capable ofspoiling all the others. This evening I gave the Kailouees and theirservants a treat of coffee, which much delighted them. Amongst the restwas En-Noor's servant. We get on very well with them for the present. 

_30th. _--We made five hours of very difficult road, winding nearly allthe way through a ravine of the rocky plateau, and finally descended bya precipitous path, among some rocks, to a small lake or pool enclosedwithin immense cliffs of rock, called the Egheree Water. It is producedsolely by rain. Within ten minutes of this, between the cliffs, isanother three times the size, and of the same origin. All about, moreover, there are little pools of water sparkling amongst the rocks, left by the recent rain. We encamped in a narrow wady, called Ajunjer, further on; and propose to remain during the rest of the day andto-morrow. It has been cool to-day, with wind; the sky clear, of a deepblue. In the rocky valley we observed a species of hedge-thorn, calledjadāree; also many of the fine large-leafed plants, called baranbakh;and the sweet-smelling sheeah, that reminded us of home-lavender. 

We have been hitherto going on in a quiet, jog-trot way enough, almostforgetting that the desert has perils, and that we are not in acivilised land. Now comes something to awaken us out of this dream ofcomfort. A courier has arrived from Ghât, bringing the news that oneSidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf, the great man of the oasis of Janet--on whichwe have been speculating so pastorally--is preparing to come out andintercept our passage to Soudan, near the well of Tajetterat. Thispleasant intelligence came to us in a letter from Hateetah and Jabour, who, however, philosophically add that they are not quite sure it iscorrect. I rewarded the courier with five reals, and sent him off toWaled Shafou and the Sultan with the news; begging the former to meet uscertainly at Falezlez, which is about four days from this, whilstTajetterat is nearly eight. Janet is now only a day and a-halfsouth-south-west from our encampment. It is a small oasis, inhabited byMoors and Tuaricks. The statistics of the place begin to interest usexceedingly. We are told that there is a good deal of corn grown there, on account of the abundance of water. Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--whosevoluminous name we found it quite easy to learn under thesecircumstances--is cousin of the Sultan Shafou, and a very old man; butwe cannot hope that in these frugal regions the gout will interfere inour favour, and put a stop to this unprovoked foray. 

The weather has been cool to-day. We are on high ground, although in awady; and this renders the heat very supportable. The reported attackkeeps our minds occupied, and has a little upset us; but no one talks offlinching. Besides, this has not been the first alarm, nor will it bethe last. I sent an account of this circumstance so far to LordPalmerston by the courier; and should have written much more, had not Ibeen occupied with the news and with the Kailouees, who have chosen thisoccasion to be troublesome. We do not get so much information, by theway, out of these people as we might expect; they do not know the namesof the wadys and rocks hereabouts, and so pretend they have none. 

The hundred dollars which we brought from Mourzuk are now nearly allgone--I have only eight or ten left. Friend Sidi Jalef WaledSakertaf--how unmusical the name sounds!--will get little money from us, and must content himself with our baggage, if he will play the robber. For the cousin of a Sultan, fie!

_August 1. _--We left Ajunjer early, and made five hours only, becauseto-morrow there is no herbage until late in the evening. How tantalisingto be obliged to advance thus by short stages towards an ambuscade! Wetake things pretty philosophically, however, and make geologicalobservations. Overweg (who begins to show signs of weakness) isdelighted that we have at length reached a region of granite. I think Imust have passed a great number of rocks of the same kind betweenGhadamez and Ghât. To the eye of an ordinary observer, some of them havethe same aspect as sandstone, or even limestone. This granite interestsus, especially as in the direct Bornou route there appears to be none atall. 

Dr. Barth compares the Tuaricks of Ghât and the Haghar to lions andtigers, and the Kailouees to snakes. The comparison well hits off theiroutward characteristics, but, as Overweg says, we must not judge ofthese people by the ordinary rules of morality, or apply to them anEuropean standard. I suspect we shall have to put up with still moreextraordinary specimens of human nature. 

We were proceeding, engaged in noticing the various colours and forms ofthe granite, when there appeared advancing through the ravine ahead anumber of moving figures. At first, of course, we were a little alarmed;but it turned out to be only a slave caravan--about twenty camels andforty slaves. One of the little boys had an immensely large head--quitea phenomenon. We, of course, eagerly questioned the merchants aboutSahara news, and especially as to whether the Tuaricks had made theirappearance at Falezlez or Tajetterat. They had neither seen nor heard ofthe hostile party; and perhaps we may hope that all this is a rumour. However, it looked very like truth; and, possibly, Sidi Jafel may knowperfectly well that there is no occasion to hurry. The Tanelkums are nowabout four days in advance of us, and may receive the first brunt of theattack. These slave-dealers tell us, that from Falezlez to the placewhere we are to be robbed and murdered is four days of dismal desert, without water--suffering before sacrifice. We are getting into the heartof the Sahara at last. Day by day the stations become more difficult. Another caravan is to pass in a few days, which may give us moredefinite intelligence. I am writing to Government and to my wife; but ofcamels I am heartily sick. Gagliuffi's camel still sticks in my throat. It was the first to knock up. I have left it at Ghât--thirty-eightmahboubs gone. People want to make a fortune out of my poor expedition. 

_2d. _--We made a long day of twelve hours, at first between graniterocks for four hours, and then over a sandy plain. This plain was atfirst scattered with pebbles of granite, but finally it became all sand. The granite rocks were mostly conic in form, and on our right rose onepeak at least six hundred feet high. Further off on the same side, at adistance, the rocks continued in a range, instead of being scatteredabout like so many sugar-loaves placed upon a plane, as mountains arerepresented to children. To-day the granite became stratified, orgneiss; there were also some fine specimens of hornblend. 

One of our Kailouee friends amused himself on the road by giving a goodbeating to his female slave. These people transact their domesticaffairs in public with the utmost simplicity. They seem to think theyare showing themselves in a favourable light by this brutal conduct, forI detect glances of pride thrown towards us. Whenever these beatingsoccur--which they do at no distant intervals--there is always anotherservant, or some one, who attempts to separate the enraged master fromthe object of his wrath. In the present instance, interference tookplace in time to prevent any very serious consequences; otherwise, Ihave no doubt the ruffians would go on exciting themselves, and beatingharder and harder, even until death ensued. We noticed the common blackbird I have already mentioned, with white head and tail. It is indeedseen everywhere, and may emphatically be called "The Bird of theDesert!"

Next day, the 3d, we started at daybreak, and made another long day ofnearly twelve hours. It is necessary to hurry over these inhospitabletracts. After two hours we got among some sand-hills, and continued allday over the same kind of ground--hill and valley alternating, with hereand there a huge, isolated, granite, rock rising up like an island. Pebbles strewed the surface of the sandy valleys. I scarcely remember tohave beheld so desolate a region. For two days there has been no water, and the camels have stretched out their necks in vain for herbage. Alittle grass, it is true, was plucked among the sand-hills to-day, andmixed with the dates, which we are compelled to give to the camels. These poor beasts are becoming thin and gaunt, from the effects of heat, fatigue, and especially from the lack of sufficient herbage. Luckily, cool winds from the south supply the place of the gheblee. 

This evening one of the Kailouees challenged me to have a run with him;I accepted the challenge, and we ran a short distance, to the greatamusement of the people. 

Our guides are sociable companions enough. They pointed out to day onthe sand the footsteps of the caravan which we met a few days ago goingto Ghât; and likewise their own footsteps, left when they passed by thatway a month and a half since. 

CHAPTER XII. 

Reach Falezlez--Dates left in the Desert--Road-marks--Disputes with theKailouees--News from Tidek--Scarcity of Food in Aheer--Similitudes andSigns of the Tuaricks--Fine Climate--Arrival of Wataitee--HisBoasting--Saharan travelling--My Umbrella--Grasping Son ofShafou--Geology of the Desert--The "Person who gives"--AnotherCaravan--Tuarick Sportsmen--Wady Aroukeen--Fine Scene--NewTrees--Kailouee Camels--Fine Nights--Well--New Moon--Passing a Caravanin the Desert--Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks--Arrive at Tajetterat--NoRobbers--An Alarm--Well of Esalan--Senna--Birds--Graves of SlaveChildren--Our Grievances against the Tuaricks. 

_4th. _--We might have reached the well of Falezlez last night; but as wedid not know who might be waiting for us there, preferred haltingthree-quarters of an hour from it, and advanced only in the morning, inbroad daylight. 

Here we found our dates, left by the Tanelkums in the side of a mound ofsand, with a piece of rotten wood stuck up to mark the place. Had theybeen, however, exposed by the side of the well, and a hundred caravanshad passed, no one would have touched them. It is a point of honour tosteal nothing thus confided in the desert. Mutual interest suggestsmutual forbearance. The Tanelkums left these dates, because we had onlyhired the camels to bring them thus far, and they knew we should notprobably come up with them. This increase of our provisions turns out tobe opportune. Without it, some of our animals might have fallen down. 

Round and near Ghât we found the stones which are set up at certainintervals to mark the direction of the roads, frequently arranged incircular heaps. An usual form is pyramidal, but the most common practiceof all is to set up one stone end-ways upon one or two others. Sometimesa hundred of these will be seen together. 

We have had some trouble in satisfying the Kailouees for the protectionthey afford us. At Ghât the agreement made was for one hundred reals, half in goods and half in money, and a trifling present when theyarrived at their journey's end. This was arranged by Haj Ibrahim andMohammed Kafa, a merchant of Ghât, and consul or wakeel of theKailouees, whom I have before mentioned. Immediately that they became alittle familiar with us, they began to say that they had not receivedall the hundred reals; but on hearing that we should write to Ghât aboutit, they dropped this plea, and asked for another hundred reals as thepresent promised them, as they pretended, through Haj Ibrahim. When thenews came respecting Sidi Jafel--taking advantage of our supposedfears--they boldly demanded a sword, some burnouses, and one hundredreals in money. 

All these demands I firmly resisted as long as I could; but at length, when a compromise seemed necessary, we arranged for a hundred reals morein goods. A part we have given here, and the rest we have promised onour arrival at Aheer. Nothing is now said of Zinder, although the firstarrangement was from Aheer to Zinder. Such are the people we have todeal with in Africa. But could we not find similar extortion amongst theinnkeepers and the conductors of carriages on the highways of Europe?

That all the people are _soua soua_--"higgledy-piggledy" is our onlyequivalent phrase--is bad news for a Saharan traveller; for it signifiesnothing less than that there is no paramount authority in a country, andthat the traveller is exposed to the insolence of every evil-disposedperson. Such is represented to be the condition of Tidek, the firstprovince of Aheer upon which we shall enter. 

The scarcity of food in Aheer--one of the causes of the disturbancesthat are taking place--arises, we are told, from the quantity ofprovisions carried away from the country when the Kailouees made theirexpedition against the Walad Suleiman. But this expedition is nowfinished, and there has been time for a revival of prosperity. Sicknessand disease are reported in Aheer at the present time. These areunpleasant tidings for a traveller who is braving the fatigues andperils of the Great Sahara, in hopes of some little repose at hisjourney's end. 

To express great numbers, the Arabs and Tuaricks always use thesimilitudes, "like the dust, " or "like flies. " When the Tuaricks say weare to give nothing to anybody--speaking, of course, of other people, asHateetah to me--they take up a little sand between the ends of theirfingers and scatter it on the palms of their hands. When they wish todescribe roads free from hills and ravines they extend the palm of theirhands, adding, "Like this. " I cannot say that I admire the Kailouees inany respect. Barth's comparison to snakes is tolerably correct. Theyhave duped us in various ways, and our only consolation is being able toreport their conduct to their friends in Ghât and Zinder. 

These observations occur to me during our prolonged halt at the well ofFalezlez. The whole caravan needs this refreshment, both on account ofthe fatigues it has already encountered, as of those to which it maylook forward on the tract of desert which now stretches wild andinhospitable before us. Yesterday the sky was completely overcast; butduring the night and this morning the clouds have been succeeded bywind, and strong blasts have completely cooled us. I do not think thatthe climate would affect me so much as it does if I had something goodto eat; but the Tanelkums have got with them all my soups. The Germanseat hausa like Tuaricks, and do very well. I expected to find the waterof Falezlez most unpalatable. This, indeed, is its reputation; but wewere all agreeably deceived, and the salt taste was scarcelyperceptible. 

About ten in the morning, on the 5th, a solitary white camel, with arider, was reported as trotting rapidly over the hills to the east. Thecircumstance created some excitement. It was Mohammed Wataitee, son ofShafou, coming riding like the monarch of the desert, as he is, upon hisfine maharee. He had been travelling three days and three nightsconsecutively; and however eager we were to hear his opinion of thedangers that threatened us, it was necessary to allow him to spend thewhole day in repose. 

When we could get speech of the traveller, he talked boastfully of thevalue of his protection, and assured us that we had really nothing tofear. He had heard, or would acknowledge to have heard, no rumours ofthe hostile intentions of his father's cousin; only, he observed, "He isan old man, " with a gesture that implied wilfulness. He would have usbelieve that this terrible enemy who has been pursuing us--at least inour imagination--is nothing but a testy old gentleman, who says thesesort of things in a fanciful way just to express his power. 

_6th. _--We were off soon after sunrise, and made a long day of twelvehours. The Kailouees were half an hour more performing the samedistance. They started first, and we travel a little faster than they. Scarcely a blade of herbage cheered our sight to day. A sandy, gravellyhamadah, with a few rocks and sand-hills here and there, --such is thenature of the country. The rocks now assume a conic form, _ke rassuker_, like a sugar-loaf, as the people say. Our course was south-west, and so it will continue to be, nearly as far as Esalan, I was amused byan observation of Dr. Overweg; he said, "I now understand the system ofthese people" (Saharan travellers). "It is to travel as much as possiblewithout labour--to do all that is necessary, but nothing more. When weleft Tripoli, instead of reposing immediately at the camping-ground ofthe caravan, everybody was running about to climb the hills and rocks;but now we all fall down to rest as soon as we have halted. " The Doctorspeaks of himself and Barth, certainly not of me; for I always rested asmuch as possible with the people. 

My old broken white umbrella attracts some attention amongst theKailouees. They all make a trial of it. Strong umbrellas would be veryuseful during the hot summer months for all Saharan travellers. 

I to-day asked the son of Shafou how his father liked the sword. Anunfortunate question. He replied, "Ah, he sends his compliments; butsays the sword is a little thing, and that you ought to have sent himsome money. There were many people waiting to see you at Aroukeen. Theywere much disappointed at your not coming. They said, --'The Christiansmust pass this way. '" It appears that a whole tribe of Tuaricks werewaiting for us, to beg, and to "eat us up, " as the Arabs graphicallyexpress it. In this respect we have been fortunate in not findingTuaricks on our line of route. 

7th--We made another long and weary day of twelve hours. The fatigue iskilling. Our course was south-west, through heaps and groups of rocksand narrow shallow wadys. In some directions, ridges of small rocks; inothers, isolated masses of conic form. The bed of the desert is mostlygranite, and some of the rocks are of the same substance. Indeed, theCentral Sahara seems to bristle with ridges of granite. Then there aremany varieties of this stone, and others springing out of granite, asquartz rocks and felspar, and some sandstone mixed with quartz. Acrossour path we observed many traces of wild oxen, and a few were seen withtheir immense horns. Birds and reptiles were rare, and the lizard not sofrequent as before. Our camels found scarcely a mouthful of hasheesh; notrees were visible, except a few miserable tholukhs. 

The Kailouees have changed in a marked manner since Wataitee hasrejoined us, and are much more civil. But I do not talk to them, contenting myself with a civil "Good day. How do you do?" This preventsthem from begging of me. They beg of Barth and Overweg, who do notnotice them. As I am "the person who gives, " I am obliged to be verypolite, but distant. 

_8th. _--We started at sunrise, and made a short day of seven hours anda-half, resting at last in a wady surrounded with rocks, where there wassome good herbage. 

In the course of this march we met another portion of the large Soudancaravan, and consigned to it our letters. They brought the news that theTanelkums were a day only in advance, having halted to take up water atAroukeen, where they dug again the old well which had been blocked withstones. 

This caravan informed us, besides, that the body of the large caravanwas resting at the well of Tajetterat. They had seen no Tuaricks. Webegin to hope that we have been disturbed by false alarms. 

At about four hours from the encampment of yesterday we descried somemountains to the south-west. Near them is the well of Janet, said to beabout seven hours out of the line of route. It is a frequent resort ofTuaricks, who come to the neighbourhood for hunting purposes. All thisregion is favourable to sport. Along our route to-day were noticedfootmarks of wild oxen and wadan. 

Wataitee asked me whether he should go to see if there were any Tuaricksat Janet, to get news of them; but I told him that he had bettercontinue with us until we reach Tajetterat. This he has agreed to do;and we all feel that his presence is, to a certain extent, a protection. 

In the evening we had a visit from three Tuarick sportsmen, with acouple of dogs. We purchased two carcases of wadan from them. It wouldhave been most amusing to an untravelled European to witness thebartering between us. The principal hunter got hold of the grey calico, and would not let go until he had his full measure. Then howdeliberately he measured again with his long arms, with all theappearance of justice, whilst he was filching off inches at once! Twosmall carcases cost us about a mahboub. Wataitee pretends that thesehunters never carry provisions with them, but must catch wadan and oxenor die. I made a tremendous supper of wadan, being as ravenous as a wolffor a little meat and soup. The meat is so strong and nourishing, thatit threatened to produce injurious effects. It is necessary to becautious about indulging in unaccustomed food. Still this meat is farsuperior to camels' flesh. 

_9th. _--We rose, and, with our accustomed regularity, started beforedaybreak in search of water, for the Kailouees are without this elementessential to life in the desert. Having continued about six hours anda-half, we encamped in Wady Aroukeen. It would not have been necessaryto come to this place, had our imprudent Kailouees taken in a sufficientsupply of water. This wady lies east and Tajetterat west. 

Our course had been over an elevated rocky plain; but I had no idea ofthe height to which we had arrived. Suddenly the ground broke up oneither side of the track into rocky eminences, and we now came to thebrow of a sharp descent. The valley of Aroukeen wound as it were like asnake far down at the bottom of an immense hollow, surrounded on allsides by an amphitheatre of savage-looking mountains--great stonyswells, made hideous here and there by crags and ravines, and piled awayon all sides in shattered magnificence. This is the grandest desertprospect I have yet seen, and must strongly clash with the ordinarynotion of the Great Sahara which untravelled geologists have representedas the recently-elevated bed of some ocean. We must now have reached thesummit of an inland Atlas, dividing the extreme limits of the Ghâtterritory from the, to us, mysterious kingdom of Aheer. 

In Wady Aroukeen there are some of the finest tholukhs I have seen, reaching the height of thirty or forty feet. There are, besides, two newspecies of trees, the adwa of Soudan, called, in Aheer, _aborah_: theyhave not been observed before, and are natives of Bornou. Their generalaspect resembles the tholukh, but they have large prickles and a smoothroundish leaf. There is a good deal of hasheesh in this valley. 

We are now, they say, about twelve days from Aheer, exclusive of thestoppages; twelve days, I mean, of twelve hours a-piece. These longstretches are desperately fatiguing, and trying to the health; but thereis no remedy. We must make these weary stages on account of the scarcityof water and herbage for the camels. The Kailouees tie their camels bythe lower jaw, and fasten the string to the baggage piled on the back ofthe preceding animal; and the long line moves on well this way. TheTuaricks fasten their bridles, when they ride their maharees, by a roundring in the nose. 

We had granite again to-day, and fine beds of felspar, pebbles, androcks. The geology of this portion of Sahara is very interesting, but nocrystals have yet been found. Yesterday and to-day, the wind has beenhigh, moderating greatly the heat. The wind is nearly always south-east. The nights are resplendent. Jupiter and Venus are seen close together inbeautiful conjunction. The constellation of the Scorpion rises higher inthe south, whilst the Pole-star apparently falls. 

I read nothing nowadays but a few verses of the Greek Testament, andwrite these miserable leaves of journal. I must save my strength. I amvery weak as it is. We have still got nearly forty days of actualtravelling to make before we enter Soudan, but we hope Providence willallow us a little rest at Aheer. 

_10th. _--We moved on late this morning up Wady Aroukeen, one hour anda-half, to a place where we have better feeding for the camels; but itwas scarcely worth the trouble of loading and unloading, as the animalscould have been led up here to this portion of the wady. 

Wady Aroukeen is in every respect a desirable place for theresting-place of a caravan. It is full of trees and hasheesh, and linedwith lofty precipitous rocks, which afford shelter in winter and insummer, and, as say the Scriptures, give "the shadow of a great rock ina weary land. " The well dug by the Tanelkums supplies very palatablewater. It lies about an hour and a-half from our encampment. 

I sent off my Soudanese servant this morning to the Tanelkums, to askthem to wait for us; or at least leave the things behind which I requirefor our use. 

Yesterday evening the new moon (second evening) was seen by our people, telling them that the Ramadhan was finished. They saluted the palecrescent horn with some discharges of their guns. 

To-day is a great feast, but they have not the means of keeping it. 

I cannot say that at this portion of my journey my mind is visited bymuch cheerfulness. However agreeable may be the valley of Aroukeen, withits grass patches, its clumps of trees, and the eternal shadow of itsrocks, I find my strength begin, to a certain extent, to fail me. Forseveral days I have had some threatening symptoms of ill-health; notvery serious, perhaps, to a person surrounded with any of the comfortsof civilisation, but much so to one in my position. Besides, despite myendeavours to disbelieve the dangers with which we are said to bemenaced from lawless freebooters, it is difficult to disregard them sofar as to remain perfectly impassive. 

My Kailouee friends do not seem to share our apprehensions. Sometimesthis circumstance cheers me; at others it suggests the idea that theymay be in league with their brethren. Let us hope not. At any rate I amstill displeased with them on account of their shabby conduct, anddisposed, perhaps, to look at them more unfavourably than they deserve. 

A man came over the hills to our right in the course of the day. Hebelonged to the Soudan caravan, the great body of which was passing atno great distance by another road. Our presence does not seem to beagreeable to such of these people as derive no profit from it. Thisindividual, in his own name and that of his companions, insists that weChristians must not be allowed to enter the City of Marabouts, the HolyCity of Aheer. Many Musulman countries of the interior have their holycities. Perhaps this worthy man made these observations because he hadnothing else to say. At any rate, having expressed his opinion, he wentoff. I regretted his churlish warning; but his presence, to a certainextent, cheered me. It was pleasant to know that a large body of myfellow-creatures were near at hand in this inhospitable desert, eventhough they entertained feelings of suspicion against us, and wereproceeding on a path which might never again bring us together. Caravansoften pass thus in these regions, like ships at sea, which hail eachother if within hearing, but, not lying-to, are satisfied by this slighttestimony of mutual sympathy. 

_11th. _--We started somewhat late, and made a good day of nine hours anda-half through winding narrow valleys, supplying a fair quantity ofhasheesh. The country around was wild and rugged--still the sameprimitive formation, gneiss being the most common rock. On the way weheard the story of the origin of the Kailouees, as given by the HagharTuaricks; it is probably meant as a satire. According to this people, afemale slave escaped from their country, and travelling over the desert, reached her native place in Soudan. But she bore within her bosom apledge that still half bound her to her ancient masters. She broughtforth a male child, and loved him and reared him; so that in process oftime he took a wife, and from this union sprung the bastard race ofKailouees. 

_12th. _--We had halted the previous evening because we were within anhour of the well of Tajetterat, which had become famous in our caravanas the place where we were to be attacked and despoiled by thefreebooter Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf. This morning we pursued our way, cautiously sending scouts before. But as the wady opened, the placeproved to be desolate, and we advanced joyously, with the confidencethat this time at least we had been disturbed by a false alarm. Still, as we descended towards the well we could not now and then refrain fromcasting our glances about into the gorges of the mountains, to discoverwhether or not, after all, our enemies were lying in ambush there. Not aliving thing stirred upon the hills; and we gathered round the twowells, or rather holes scraped out of the sand, with feelings of delightand confidence. The water proved to be good; it is said to be producedby rain, and to be purgative, --a quality it must derive from the soilthrough which it trickles. We determined, however, not to stop at thisplace, lest the men of Janet[7] might after all arrive; and pushing on, in hopes that our track might be confounded with those of the caravans, we reached, after a rapid march of five hours and a-half, the well ofEsalan. As we approached, we saw an encampment in its neighbourhood, andcamels grazing about. Our vanguard halted; and the whole caravan soonbecame massed in the entrance of the gorge through which we were aboutto issue. Our far-sighted guards, however, soon discovered that therewas no cause for alarm. We had at length overtaken our Tanelkum friends;and riding forward I greeted them, and, forgetting all idea of danger, anxiously asked for our baggage, and above all for my inestimable supplyof potted soups!

 [7] This name is sometimes written "Janet, " sometimes "Ghanet" by Mr. Richardson, who, moreover, now describes the inhabitants of the place as Haghar and then as Azgher. A more definite account is given further on. It appears, however, that vulgarly in the Sahara all the Tuaricks are called Haghar or Hagar, which seems to have been used rather indiscriminately in the caravan as a term of fear. --ED. 

In this part of the country the scenery is far more open than it wasbefore; the mountains are lower, but the wadys are not so wide. Here andthere occurred considerable patches of herbage, called _sabot_, and manylarge, fine trees. Amongst the smaller ones, for the first time, we cameupon the senna plant, some of the leaves of which our people plucked. Higher up, in Aheer, is apparently the native soil of this plant. We hadalso again the adwa, several trees, and the kaiou or kremka, the onlyplant we have yet seen with a truly tropical aspect. 

The adwa bears a fruit something like the date, and is eaten by thepeople in Soudan. As to the _sabot_, above mentioned, it is a kind ofherbage, which covers the beds of the valleys in this region ofprimitive rock: it forms the principal food of our camels. The _bourekabah_, however, the best for them, is in small quantities, but whenseen is devoured to the sand. The people of Aheer eat its seed asghaseb. 

Yesterday, we saw, for the first time, a bird's nest in the desert, inthe side of a rock. It contained no eggs; our people, on a formeroccasion, brought in some. It is astonishing how few birds' nests arefound, though in some places a good number of small flutterers are seen. About the wells of Tajetterat darted half-a-dozen quails. We have notyet observed an ostrich, although many traces have been found on thesand. Around, however, are numbers of the wadan, [8] and our huntsmen areactive. Yesterday some flesh of this animal was brought in. 

 [8] Wadan is the Arabic name of the aoudad of the Berbers. We call the animal "mouflon" (_Ovis tragelaphus_). It is found in considerable numbers throughout the deserts of Northern Africa, from the Atlantic to the Red Sea. I have seen a beautiful specimen, nearly all milk-white, in Cairo. --ED. 

In this part of the route we frequently fell in with small heaps ofstones; and if we ask what they mean, are invariably told they are thegraves of slave-children who have perished by the way, most probably inthe arms of their mothers. What wonderful tales of sorrow and anguishcould these rocks give, if they were not compelled to eternal dumbness!What sighs, what shrieks of grief have echoed here! How many tears havewatered this track! These thoughts saddened our way; but they seemed atthe same time to rouse that enthusiasm which is the only adequate allyto those engaged in such a mission as ours. 

The son of Shafou is to leave us at Esalan. I may as well record here, in form, a list of our grievances against the Tuaricks, for theinformation and warning of future travellers:--

1st. They, the Tuaricks, wished to obtain presents from the Germans, nearly in the same quantity as from myself; or, at least, somethingconsiderable. 

2d. They wanted us to remain six weeks in Ghât, to wait for an answerfrom Sultan En-Noor at Aheer. 

3d. They refused to conduct us to the frontier of Aheer, according totheir agreement at Mourzuk. 

4th. They demanded seventy reals for the passage of our free blacks. 

5th. They insisted on having the presents for Berka, Khanouhen, andJabour, before the treaty was signed. 

The first two demands I successfully resisted, as also the third atGhât. The fourth was compromised; we paid twenty-eight reals instead ofseventy. The last I yielded, on the condition that I should only givethree burnouses. 

_13th. _--The water of Esalan is, likewise, nothing but a deposit ofrain. Several holes are scooped out in the sand, down to the rocky bedof the valley. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct andstrange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rockyCountry--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--HardDay's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar arecoming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--OurHospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of theKailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--YouthfulConcubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of theHaghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--NewClimate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere. 

We have at length heard what appears to be a fair account of the rumourrespecting that terrible Sidi Jafel. He did leave Janet as if bound forTajetterat; but it was for the purpose of giving his camels a feeding ofherbage in that direction. He took his family and tents with him, andhas been seen with his son by the huntsman of Wady Aroukeen. He is not asheikh, but a spirited old man; and, from what I can understand, is aHaghar belonging to Ghemama, and not an Azgher of Ghât. They now assureus that he had never any intention of attacking us; but as there israrely smoke without a fire, it is possible he may have indulged in alittle threatening talk, just to impress an idea of his importance onthe people of Janet. This is Waled Shafou's view of the case. 

We moved on from the well of Esalan in the evening, but only for an hourand a half, to a place in the same wady; where there was abundantherbage for the camels. Here we had another Tuarick dispute. Wataiteepretended to fix at a very high rate his services in answering to ourcall, and proceeding with us as far as this well. At first I refused togive anything at all, since he had stipulated to conduct us as far asthe frontiers of Aheer. I then offered him a burnouse (a small whiteone), and a shasheeah (or fez), both which he obstinately rejected in myteeth, but did not state what he wanted--except muttering, "Money, money, money!"

Fearing some violence from his threatening manner, I was obliged to loadmy guns and pistols. Whilst declaring he would not take anything byforce, he used very threatening language. He was to have left us at thewell, but followed us this evening; and when we decamped I determined, therefore, if possible, to come to some arrangement with him throughEn-Noor, as he might prove a dangerous enemy. 

Whilst speaking to Yusuf on this subject, En-Noor the Kailouee, who, bythe bye, must not be confounded with the Sultan of Aheer bearing thesame name, came in and told us that he had just seen Wataitee, who wasexceedingly exasperated, and who threatened to stop the caravan in themorning if his demands were not complied with. What is to be done? Werewe to aim at satisfying all the unjust claims made upon us, we shouldnot only be beggared immediately, but should have whole crowds of freshsuppliants coming in every day. Wataitee seems to expect that I shouldgive him something like a hundred reals in money for his pretended extraservices, and goes thundering about, "that the lands, and rocks, andmountains of Ghât do not belong to God, but to the Azgher, to whom theCreator has given them once and for ever, and who are the sovereign andomnipotent rulers of this portion of earth--this large tract of Sahara. "There has often been detected in the speeches of African princes acertain degree of blasphemy and resistance to the omnipotent sovereigntyof the Deity they adore; and this kind of language was not new to me. The possessors of lawless power seem easily to identify themselves withgods. 

To us, naked rocks, and treeless valleys, and bare stony plains, areobjects without interest, except in a geological point of view. But itis very different with the Haghar and Azgher. In their eyes, a plain ofstones and sand holds the place of a heath of growing bloom; a barrenvalley is a vale of fertility; rocks and mountains are always objects ofbeauty; whilst wells are treasured of wealth, as indeed they are verilyin the desert. A Tuarick may be said to know every stone of his aridkingdom. 

Taking these things into consideration, and making a merit of necessity, we agreed together to offer him thirty reals. He had already come downto fifty, and now accepted the thirty, but said they must be the largeones, or _douros_ (dollars). It was arranged that I should pay the moneyto En-Noor in Aheer; for all now had become convinced that not one of usthree had any dollars worth speaking of left. I believe I have some sixor seven, whilst the Germans have none. If we had brought a thousandwith us, they would all have been scattered to the wind in these Tuarickcountries. Our servants, being persuaded that we have no dollars left, have sworn to the fact; so that my candid declaration, "That if theywere to kill me, they could not find ten dollars to pay them for theirtrouble, " is now believed. 

_14th. _--Wataitee came early to my tent, and asked me for a bit ofsugar. I gave him half a loaf, with which he was apparently wellsatisfied; for afterwards he asked if I had any letters to take to Ghât. I consigned to him a letter for Mr. Bidwell and my wife. Wataitee amusedBarth by recounting to him numerous dues which he had failed to pay. Amongst the rest, a tax to see the Kasar Janoon; fifty dollars fordrinking of the well of Esalan, &c. &c. These matters being at lengthsettled, we proceeded for Aisou, and journeyed a long day of twelvehours and a-half. I was looking out every moment, expecting to clear therocks, and enter upon the immeasurable stretch of plain reported to us. But all was a rocky granite expanse, with conical-shaped rocks, exactlyas before described. We begin to tire of this kind of country, whichseemed so picturesque when we first entered upon it. 

To-day the weather was misty, and we felt as if entering into the circleof a new climate. Few or no animals were seen. All is dismal and dreary. 

_15th. _--We rose at daybreak, and proceeded steadily on, making a day'sjourney of thirteen long weary hours. The stony plain opened rather morethan yesterday, but there were always rocks on either hand. 

To-day we had the first drops of Soudan rain, and a complete Soudanatmosphere. We also observed the vermilion tinge on the clouds, peculiarto Central Africa; and the air was hot and clammy. Every sort of desertphenomenon is seen in these parts in perfection. The mirage often fillsup the interstices left between the rocks, and inundates the plain aheadwith its fantastic waters. 

_16th. _--We were early in motion this day; and started, cheered by thehope held out to us, that at the termination of two long marches weshould at length reach, at the Seven Wells of Aisou, the frontiers ofAheer. It is true that we were promised no town, no village, not evenvisible landmarks; above all, no custom-house officers to suggest theblessings of civilisation. There was, in truth, some idea that veryindefinite dues might be exacted of us during our progress through thenorthern districts of the Asben territory. Still it was a comfort to getat last within the limits of the influence of a form of polity, howeverrude. 

Whilst we were indulging in these reflections, there came on a regulardesert-storm. A vault of clouds, like huge irregular rocks, was soonheaped up overhead. The thunder roared from side to side of the horizon. The lightning flashed, sometimes above, sometimes between, the isolatedhills, showing them like long black tents pitched here and there on theplain. Our beasts moved eagerly on; and their drivers, though accustomedto such phenomena, were hushed into awe. The tempest did not last manyminutes; but it was accompanied by wind so violent that we couldscarcely preserve our seats in the saddles, and finished off with soviolent a shower of rain that we got quite wet through almost in aninstant. This is a fair warning that we are really within the tropics. 

We made fourteen hours that day, and felt dreadfully exhausted onarriving at the place where we expected to encamp for the night. In twohours, however, the Kailouees came and told us that there was no morewater in the skins; that the camels were restless, knowing that a wellwas ahead; and that it was better to move on at once, and make for thewell of Aisou, that marks the commencement of the Aheer territory. Westarted, therefore, again, although I was suffering from illness, andmoved on all night, nodding in our saddles in a half-slumber, that tothose unaccustomed is almost more fatiguing than watchfulness. Severaltimes I felt inclined to insist on a halt; but the people, who wereeager to arrive, cried out that _the camels wanted to reach the water_;and proceeding accordingly, about seven o'clock the next morning we atlength reached the Seven Wells. We found only two open, the others beingclosed up by sand. Some of them belong to the Kailouees, and the othersto the Tuaricks of Ghât. There is no good feeding for the camels, only afew tufts of coarse herbage. The kingdom of Aheer presents itself undergrim colours. I did not move about this day, but consecrated it to rest. The rocks of Asben rise above the horizon. 

_18th. _--Bidding adieu to the land of Ghât--if that name can be appliedto the desert which we have just traversed--we left the Seven Wells, andonce more entered upon the desert. We had scarcely been in motion twohours, when there was an alarm of Haghar coming upon us from behind. Idid not at first know how the report originated, and looked anxiouslyaround upon the desert expecting to see a body of enemies charging downsome valley. All the people ran for their guns, and I hastily deliveredout powder and ball. It was amusing to see the slaves with their bowsand arrows, coming forward and trying to look martial. I have no doubtthey would have done their best. When the tumult was a little calmed, Ilearned that two of our people, who had remained behind a short time atthe wells of Aisou, saw a Tuarick coming up to the place, and, twoothers slowly following, all three mounted on tall maharees. They spoketo the one who arrived first, and inquired if many were behind. To thisthey received a laconic answer, "Yes. " One of them accordingly, feigningto retire, left his servant hid behind a rock to watch what took place, and ran after us to communicate the unwelcome intelligence, that wemight expect an attack. We marched the whole day with our weapons inhand, keeping a sharp look-out in the rear. Of course there was no othersubject of conversation than the robbers, of whose existence our fearsmade us certain. Were they, after all, led by that Sidi Jafel, of whomrumour had lately become so complimentary? Whence did these encouragingaccounts come? Were they circulated by persons interested in putting usoff our guard? Discussing these questions, we pushed on through a veryarid country, searching for one of those two blessings, which seem to bealways separated in this part of the desert, --water and herbage. We hadfound the former at Aisou; the latter greeted us in plenty at a placecalled Takeesat, where we encamped, intending to pass the night and thewhole of next day. The herbage was of the kind called _nasee_, which isvery strengthening for the camels. 

I believed that the Haghar would not follow the Kailouees upon their ownterritory, but I was mistaken. Just before sunset, to our surprise, wesaw rising above the hills around the valley where we are encamped, three mounted men. These mysterious Haghar are then determined, wethought, to pursue us Christians as their natural prey! The men rodecoolly up and mingled with us, probably understanding and enjoying thelooks of suspicion and terror that greeted them. No one thought proper, at first, to address them a single question; and they were allowed topicket their maharees without molestation. It must be confessed thatthere was no little agitation in our camp, and everything was done togive any attacking force a warm reception. We made barricades of theboat, and kept watch all night. We also scoured the valley all round tosee if there were any other people about. 

I must insist, for the credit of our gallantry, that it was not of thesethree men that we were afraid. Our caravan was composed of sixtyindividuals capable of bearing arms, besides women and children. Ourcamels also amounted to one hundred and seven. Had we not, therefore, been tormented for so many days by rumours of intended attacks, weshould have laughed at these Haghars, however fierce might have beentheir looks, and however hostile their intentions. But our guides, whoknew the habits of the desert, did not think it beneath their dignity tobe alarmed, nor to look anxiously about to the right and to the left, asif every stone concealed an enemy, every ravine an ambush. 

By the way, it may be as well to mention here, that the reader may knowhow to call the enemies we feared, that although vulgarly the whole racethat inhabits between the borders of Fezzan and Timbuctoo are calledHaghar, the Tuaricks of Ghât are properly distinguished as Azgher; andthose located towards Tuat and the Joliba, Haghar. Had they and theirparty been of generally predatory dispositions, they would have hadsomething to occupy them--the caravan belonging to Haj Ibrahim comingfrom Soudan. We should, perhaps, be uncharitable enough to hope thatprecious time might be occupied in plundering these good people, were wenot certain that, if we are really to be attacked, it is because of thepresence of Christians. Will our guides peril life or limb to preservefrom danger people whose tenets they abhor?

_19th. _--The three men, supposed scouts or spies, remained with usduring the night. At first, it was proposed to push on, and get as faras possible away from danger; but as our unbidden guests made a greatoath that they did not know that there were foreigners in the caravan, and that they only wanted a supper, having had nothing to eat forfifteen days, we determined to carry out our original intention, bothfor the sake of our camels and ourselves. That the men might be bound tous by the tie of hospitality, I presented them with some hamsa, to whichEn-Noor added a little zumeetah, and we determined at all hazards togive our camels and ourselves rest. Our people, in fact, soon discoveredthat the Tuaricks had brought nothing with them but a single skin ofwater. They pretend they are going to see their friends and relations inAheer, and wish to accompany us, which our people have politelydeclined. But I must see the end of them before I set down an opinion. 

I wrote up my journal to-day, and am in good health. My spirits are alittle soured, nay, exasperated into activity by these constanttroubles. It is very hot now. I have hit upon a happy contrivance forkeeping out the sun from my tent. I lay my carpet on the sandy floor ofmy tent, and with my table and the frame of my bed I make a woodencovering over. On the top I place my mattress and thick blankets, I thenlay myself down underneath; and am perfectly protected from the sunabove, whilst the cool breeze enters at the bottom of the tent. Thereis, then, not a person in the caravan who suffers so little from theheat as I do, I recommend the plan to travellers. 

These last four days we have made immense progress towards Aheer--Imean, its inhabited districts. 

Wednesday 12-1/2 hours 31 miles. Thursday 13 " 32-1/2 "Friday 14 " 35 "Friday night to Saturday morning 9 " 22-1/2 " ------- At 2-1/2 miles an hour 121 miles. 

Sometimes, however, the camels went at least three miles an hour. Wehave come, indeed, about 130 miles, and nearly all south; which hasbrought us so much more within the influence of the climate of Soudan. On the third day, at noon, the granite region disappeared, and we havenow sandstone again. 

Some of our servants have begun to feel uneasy, and are becomingtroublesome, in consequence of these constant alarms of Haghar. To dothe free blacks justice, they behave well. Yusuf is getting out oftemper, and somewhat changed in manner. He is annoyed at seeing me notplace so much confidence in him as at first; I have reason to bedissatisfied with his carelessness. Mahommed of Tunis is a good servant, but at times impertinent. 

I am getting rather more accustomed to our Kailouee companions. They aredressed in most respects like the Tuaricks, but seem to take pride inloading themselves with a luxury of weapons. To see one of them runningafter a camel is really a ludicrous sight: bow, arrows, sword, gun, pistols, dagger, stick out in all directions, and it is hard to imaginehow they would behave in the midst of this arsenal if attacked. Thechief of them is En-Noor, a person of mild and good manners--quite agentleman, in fact. He is a man of light complexion; but his twocompanions are dark as thorough negroes. These individuals, Dedee andFeraghe by name, are great beggars, and by no means scrupulous in theirconduct. I steadily resist their demands. En-Noor manages to preservehis dignity by their side. He tells me he will go along with us as faras Zinder. The Kailouees have some servants with them, verygood-humoured black fellows. Of the Tanelkums I know little; but HajOmer, who will accompany us to Kanou, seems a man of courage and tact. There are two or three venerable old men amongst these Tuaricks, together with some young ones. They all feel the civilising effect ofvisiting Mourzuk. Certainly this people could do much, if they pleased, for the civilisation of Africa; but at present they are actively engagedin drawing out of the unfortunate central countries the capitalrequisite to maintain even their existence. Of Boro, the sheikh ofAghadez, I cannot yet venture an opinion. They say, he spoke sharplyagainst Hateetah and Wataitee. 

To return to the Kailouees. I imagine they must resemble all the men weshall find in the interior, in one respect--the love of women. They areeloquent in describing the beauties of the cities of Soudan--eloquent, Imean, in their sensual style, of which I cannot venture to give aspecimen. The Tanelkums, children of the desert, are, like the Haghars, far less sensual in their imaginations, and indulge less in amorousconversation. There are some comely women-slaves in the caravan, butmost of them are very plain. They have in general negro features, but afew are light in complexion. Their clothing is poor, without any attemptat finery; but when they have prepared the food of their masters theytake their shares freely. They walk well on the road when necessary, andbeing light and slightly made, do not appear to suffer from fatigue. 

As a rule, all these women are modest and decorous in behaviour, and aretreated with considerable respect. No master interferes with the slavesof another, and most of them are permitted in their turn to ride. A poorcreature belonging to a Tuatee, however, is forced always to trudge onfoot, although its master often takes a lift himself. Two of the womenhave infants in their arms--little things, as knowing, to allappearance, as those that can run. These mothers, with their children, are treated with great tenderness and care. 

Some of the merchants had as many as three female slaves a-piece; but itis to be observed, that they are mere girls. The Africans who can affordto indulge their tastes, abhor women of any age. All their slaves are oftender years. The older these gentlemen get, the younger they requiretheir concubines to be. An aged sinner of Aghadez had a mere child withhim. En-Noor is said to have half-a-dozen stout girls running about hishouse. Really, to satisfy the passions and sensuality of these Africans, women should be like the houris of Paradise, and never grow old. Thosethat accompanied us were, of course, regarded as mistresses, but wererequired also to do nearly all the drudgery of the caravan. Theirmasters must have sold much prettier and finer girls at Ghât. 

The name of the place where we are now encamped is, as I have said, Takeesat, and that of the rocky plain we traversed between Esalan andAisou is [_omitted in Journal_]. We shall now have great confusion inthe denominations of places, the Tuaricks using one name and theKailouees another. 

_20th. _--We rose early, and at four o'clock were already in motion. Itwas a long and weary day--fourteen hours of actual travelling; but this, thank Heaven! is, we are told, the last long stretch of that kind weshall have to undertake. The country was nearly similar to that betweenFalezlez and Aisou; plains or slightly indented valleys. The graniteappeared again, with sandstone on the top. No herbage was found to-day, except a few scanty bits here and there. 

In the morning our blacks all ran up to a sugar-loaf shaped rock, whichthey called their altar or temple, Jama. There they performed certainstrange incantations, after which they descended and began to indulge inmock-fights, sometimes even simulating an attack upon the caravan. Whatwas the real meaning of their pantomime it was impossible to make out, but they amused us exceedingly by their wild gestures and cries. 

The three mysterious Haghars still continued to follow us throughout theday, declaring that they had no evil intentions, but were merely poorwayfarers journeying to Aheer. They have made friends with theTanelkums, with whom they have more points of resemblance than with theKailouees. In appearance and manners they are remarkable enough. Theywear a shield of bullock or rhinoceros hide hanging down on one side oftheir camels. During our march, it was evidently their desire to showoff; for they moved in order of battle as they called it, in a line, thetwo who had spears holding them bravely up. It was certainly a prettysight to see them play off this little exercise. But in the evening, after dark, they returned from feeding their camels somewhere in themountains, and came and bivouacked close to us and our baggage. Thisalarmed us, and we sent En-Noor to remonstrate with them. After somewrangling, they promised to leave us if we would give them supper. Wedid so, and got rid of them for the night. 

There was some dispute this evening with the servants about pitching ourtent. I always find them ready to escape this trouble when they can. However, it appears that En-Noor recommended us not to pitch our tentsthat we may not be known during the night, in the event of these threeHaghars having comrades skulking after them, seeking an opportunity toattack us. 

_21st. _--We rose an hour before daylight, and journeyed eight hours, passing through a country resembling that of yesterday, and a pleasantvalley called Wady Jeenanee, until we arrived at the wells of the samename. They are scooped out of the sand in a stony bed, and amidst rocks. The water is very palatable. It has no natural source, but there is anabundant supply for several months, and even years, after great rains. 

To-day we noticed, for the first time on our journey from Tripoli, therecent marks of the fall of a great quantity of rain. It had left afterit exactly the same forms on the sandy valley which we see at all times, quite dry, in the more desolated regions of the Sahara. There cannot bea doubt that occasionally an immense quantity of rain falls in everyregion of this great desert. 

The senna plant was picked up again to-day, and the tree called aborahappeared in great numbers in the wady, in a corner of which we encamped. 

Although our friends, the three Haghars, promised to leave us for everif they had a supper, yesterday they appeared again _en route_ to chatwith their Tanelkum acquaintances. God knows, they may be honest men--inreality, poor devils obliged to beg their way to Aheer. They wanderabout here and there. (I have not seen them this evening, five P. M. )

Notwithstanding that the blacks of our caravan (mostly slaves) walked onfoot fourteen long, long hours yesterday, they still danced, and sang, and played games in the evening, and kept it up till midnight! Howcapable are these Africans of bearing up against fatigue and toil! Couldwe Europeans do as they do? Not even in our own country, and under ourown climate. 

They afterwards made a collection of small articles of clothing, andother little things. I gave them a handkerchief, with which they weregreatly delighted. 

We had a perfect Soudan atmosphere to-day. The heavens were surchargedwith clouds, and when the sun appeared through them for a few minutes, it was burning, scorching hot. The abundance of herbage and trees inWady Jeenanee combined with these circumstances to show that we hadentered the gates of a new climate. 

_21st. _[9]--We started late, seven A. M. , and journeyed about six hours, the camels eating nearly all the way, which gave our Tuarick caravan theappearance of a company of Arabs. To-day the herbage and treesincreased, in abundance and variety, and we saw several pretty wildflowers. We observed many Soudan trees, or trees with tropical aspects. Our route lay through rocky valleys, over a bed of fine granite sand. The rocks were all blackened, forming a gloomy landscape, especially asall the morning the heavens were one impenetrable mass of clouds. Theatmosphere felt, at first, damp and suffocating; but at length the windgot up, and we breathed more freely. 

 [9] Here is a day repeated in the journal; but as it is not of much moment, I have made no alteration. --ED. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudentDemand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--ThreateningAppearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--LeaveWaldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailantsdraws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to aCompromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceedtoward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend fromSeloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to belet go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise forMoney--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter theValley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of SultanEn-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy. 

As we advanced, on the 21st, along the plain between the graniterocks--trees and flowers starting up thicker and thicker from the groundto greet our approach--our guides told us that we were at lengthentering the inhabited districts of the kingdom of Aheer, or Asben, asit is indifferently called. This announcement at once substitutedpleasurable for uneasy sensations. We thought no more at all of pursuingrobbers, and gave ourselves up to the delight which always attends upondifficulties vanquished. The name of the first district is Taghajeet. Weexpected to behold groups of inhabitants coming joyfully to welcome us. Our imaginations had adorned this country almost with the colours ofhome. It was about one that we crossed the unmarked frontier. Stillthere were rocks around, their angles softened away by trees; still wildflowers mingled with the herbage on every side; the heavens wereclearing overhead, and the sun shed down a warm mantle of rays upon theland; yet there were no signs of life. The silence that reigned, I knownot why, introduced ideas of terror into our minds, and we began to gazeanxiously to the right and to the left. We remembered that this region, likewise, was inhabited by Tuaricks, though not of the Haghar tribe. They might be inhospitable, perhaps hostile. All the caravan, bydegrees, seemed to join in our uneasiness; and when at length, justbefore we pitched our tent, the cry arose of "The Tuaricks! the Tuaricksare coming!" it rose as a cry of warning and alarm. Every one snatchedup his weapons as a small group approached; and all waited withimpatience to learn whether they came as friends or enemies. 

Our uneasiness was soon quieted. The newcomers were known to some of ourpeople, the Tanelkums, and soon scraped acquaintance with us. They paida visit to my tent, and I gave them a number of little things, withwhich they were very much gratified. There was reason, then, to hopethat our first impressions of security were well-founded, and I beganwriting my journal as if we had really arrived in a land of peace. 

Suddenly a man, mounted on a maharee, brought us news, at first in afriendly way, that an immense number of Tuaricks were pursuing us; andthen, throwing off the mask, in their name demanded of our escort thatthey should deliver us up to them. This demand the Kailouees, of course, rejected with indignation; but the circumstance put our people on the_qui vive_, and we kept up a fire of musketry for two or three hoursduring the succeeding night. 

At sunset, Waldee, the great merchant of Mourzuk, came to theencampment. His caravan was stopping half an hour higher up. He gave usmuch encouragement, and eloquently recommended us to the care of all ourpeople, the camel-drivers and escort. Waldee has travelled this routefourteen years. He is just the man to do it, --a small spare fellow withan expression of much intelligence, which he really possesses. He is themost respected of all the merchants on this route. 

When he left us, he sent us a present of Aheer dates, which were largeand exceedingly well tasted. 

_22d. _--We stopped in the valley of Taghajeet all day, waiting for theHaghars, but they did not make their appearance. In the morning early, Idistributed powder and shot to about forty of our people. Each had halfa cupfull of powder and twelve shots. It was an immense present forthem, and they were all greatly rejoiced at the gift. It is extremelydifficult for people to obtain powder and shot in these countries. Wemade a line of barricades with the boat. Amongst our defenders appearedthe three Azgher Tuaricks, [10] who followed us from Tajetterat, andovertook us above the well of Aisou. We gave them powder and shot, andthey swore they would die for us. 

 [10] Those people are sometimes called Haghar, and sometimes Azgher, in the journal. The latter appellation is probably the correct one in this case. --ED. 

In the evening two mounted men came up, and made the same demand of ourescort that the single man had made the night before; namely, that theyshould give us Christians up to forty or fifty Tuaricks, collected fromthe various districts around. This impudent demand was again rejected. 

The opinion of all the caravan now seemed to be, that this was an idlethreat of some dozen bandits, and that the people generally would notturn out inimical. 

Merchant Waldee came again this evening, and gave us increasedencouragement not to be afraid. 

The more we saw of this man the better we liked him. He brought for us, also, the favourable news that the Sheikh of Bornou was on good termswith his neighbours, the people of Wadaï and Darfour. I shall endeavourto return _viâ_ these countries to the Mediterranean, if possible. Ourpeople fired again to-night. In the evening I presented Boro of Aghadezwith a fine burnouse, and his son with a shasheeah and a fateh. I gave afateh also to one of his relations, who is travelling with him. He washighly pleased with the gift, and expressed his pleasure in manycompliments. Of giving gifts there is no end; but this is the time, ornever, when they will be useful. 

_23d. _--Before we started, another fellow came riding up from therumoured troop of bandits, and demanded of our escort that they shouldgive us into their hands. Boro remembered his present, and expressed hisgratitude by resenting this insolence with a perfect shower of abuse. 

We advanced nine hours this day, looking behind us as we moved. Ourcourse lay through a rocky country, and two or three fine valleys, distinguished chiefly by the immense size of the tholukh-trees. In theafternoon a large valley opened, amidst a mountainous region; aftertraversing which, we pitched tent in a small open space surrounded withhills, with a snug valley of hasheesh near at hand. 

When we started in the morning, we bade the merchant Waldee adieu. During the night he had received a courier from Mourzuk, and lettersfrom the Consul and Mustapha Bey to recommend us to him. Waldee said hewould write us some letters, and send them after us. He leaves hiscaravan at Taghajeet, and mounts his maharee for Mourzuk, where heexpects to arrive in the course of fourteen days. 

I wrote by him to Government, and to my wife. 

In the evening, when it was nearly dusk, five mounted men made theirappearance, two of them leading six empty camels. We did not like thelooks of them, but they gave a tolerable account of themselves. 

I treated them to supper--in fact, I am obliged to feed all strangers, as well as a good number of the caravan. Of feeding these people, as ofgiving them presents, verily there is no end. To travel comfortably inthe desert, it would be necessary to possess Fortunatus' purse orAladdin's lamp. 

During the night these strange fellows disappeared, which circumstancenaturally aroused our suspicions. About two in the morning theKailouees, wishing to start early, began to bustle about in the dark, inorder to collect their camels. They could not find any of them. Greatwas the consternation. The Tanelkums instantly ran to their drove, ofwhich three only were missing, and ours also were found to be safe. Theyhave driven the camels off, in order to prevent our progress, and givetime to the enemy to come up. 

_24th. _--We naturally passed the remainder of the night in the greatestanxiety of mind, feeling sure that a crisis was now approaching. Atabout six in the morning, four men, mounted on maharees, came ridingtowards us, and drawing near, boldly summoned our escort to deliver upthe Christians, with all their baggage and camels. The insolence of thissmall body assured us that they had some force at hand; but we boldlytold them to go about their business, as we were resolved to defendourselves to the last. 

Whilst we were parleying with them, a troop of about forty men, mountedon their fleet maharees, and equipped for war with spears, shields, andswords, came trotting rapidly over the hills, hallooing with wild cries, and challenging our caravan to battle. When the first few moments ofsurprise had subsided, two-thirds of our caravan, armed with matchlocks, pistols, and swords, advanced in a body, and shouted out that theyaccepted the challenge. This bold movement staggered the assailants, whoforthwith began to waver and retire. They had evidently expected tooverawe us by boasting. Our people, satisfied with the effect of theirmanoeuvre, retired slowly towards the encampment. Presently a small bodyof the enemy advanced as a deputation, demanding to parley, anddeclaring that they did not come to fight against people of their ownfaith. The remainder pretended to march and countermarch along the hillson either hand, as if to hem us in completely, but kept at a respectfuldistance. They saw that we were too strong for them, but called out thatthey would go and fetch more people. 

The conferences were now fairly opened, and we found that the hostiletroop was composed of a collection of all the Sheikhs of theneighbouring districts, with their followers, and several regularbandits, countenanced by a Shereef Marabout. Our people understood atonce that the affair was far more serious than they had anticipated, andbegan to be downhearted. They knew that they could not proceed withouttheir camels, and from their expressions and looks I could foresee thatthe matter at last would have to be ended by a compromise. 

The enemy made various propositions, more or less agreeable to our ears. The first was simply that we, as infidels, should be given up to be putto death--an idea which, luckily, nobody seemed to consider proper orfeasible. They then insisted that we should pass on no further, butshould return by the way we had come--also declined. Next, they demandedthat we should become Muslims--a proposition which our people refusedeven to mention to us. Finally, they coolly asked for half our goods andbaggage, --no doubt their ultimate object. 

When they found that we would not agree to any of their proposals, butwere determined rather to resist by the strong hand, a compromise wasagreed upon. We paid them in goods to the value of three hundred andfifty reals, or about fifty pounds sterling, in order to get back ourcamels and be allowed to proceed. Even then, however, our caravan lostnine animals; so that the Kailouees suffer more even than we do. We wereobliged to put up with all this, and were glad enough when the ShereefMarabout at length professed himself satisfied, and volunteered hisprotection for the future. 

A wild and lawless set are these borderers of Aheer. The gathering wasevidently a spontaneous one of all the blackguards of the country. Eventhe marabout complains, that during the expedition he has lost hisburnouse, carpet, and fez, whilst he was saying his prayers, pious man!and beseeching for strength to overcome the infidels! He was on hisknees, when a fellow of his troop came softly up behind, appropriatedhis things, mounted his camel, and fled away--"whist, " he says, like thewind, and was soon out of sight, and appeared no more. By the way, thethree Azghers were frightened, or corrupted, in the morning, and wentover to the enemy. They change sides with fortune; and when some shotswere fired by the enemy, by way of bravado and to expedite theconferences, one of their muskets was brought into play, and of coursemy powder! I am happy to reflect, however, that they got none of thebooty this time, and have "'filed their minds" for nought. 

As soon as we got back our camels we proposed to, move on, our peopleevincing the greatest anxiety to get away from a place where suchdisagreeable things had happened. We accordingly marched about twohours, the marabouts accompanying us, and then pitched tent for thenight. Sinister rumours, however, were still about, like a flight ofill-omened birds, and it was said that another troop of people werecollecting further on to intercept our passage to Soudan. During thishalt, grave conferences were held between the Kailouee merchant, En-Noor, and the marabout, on the subject of these fresh reports. Itturned out that there were several people in the neighbourhood who weredissatisfied that they had not shared in the booty, and might provetroublesome. About thirty reals' worth of things were accordinglyselected for them. 

_25th. _--We started before daylight, and advanced about nine hours, pitching tent in the afternoon at three. Our people are in betterspirits, anticipating the termination of the journey. However, we arenot yet free from cause of alarm. The Tanelkums, our companions, beginto show symptoms of discontent, and in the evening I was obliged to makepresents to the whole of them. They have certainly worked hard for us, and suffered much anxiety on our account. 

Our course this day lay towards the mountains of Tidek, which form oursouthern horizon. The country was a perfect desert. There was nothingnow to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps a few tholukh-treesof gigantic stature. We did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside, sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of hasheesh. Our camelsgreedily devour the luxuriant _bou rekaba_. 

_26th. _--As usual, the caravan was got into marching order beforedaybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealedto us that we were still watched by the hostile population. Three men, mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation. We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady ofKaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge tholukhs were coveredwith a multitude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or traileddown towards the earth. This valley runs winding round about the groupof Tidek mountains, which have long been in view. They say that itabounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades thatopened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the foreststopping to gaze at us as we passed. We discovered, however, only threeblack ostriches moving slowly along in the distance, --the first I haveseen wild in Africa. They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads andnecks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our people did not attemptto chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewisesuffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached the well of Anamghur, where we drank some good water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rockybed of the wady. A group of five asses had been driven down to it todrink. 

As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead. A person ofconsequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us. He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be ourprotection. We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but itappeared from his report that there were more people collecting toattack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils. In the eveningwe encamped in an open space clear of the trees, where we could see allaround us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely were we establishedwhen a troop of fifty men came near in a threatening manner, but did notattack us. After dark, they increased to about a hundred. They consistedof the sheikhs of the districts, with their followers and lawless menscraped together from various quarters. Meanwhile our escort, who wereanxious for their own safety as well as ours, had sent on to the City ofMarabouts, Tintaghoda, and had prevailed on several of these holy men toprotect them and us. The night was spent in conference instead of inrepose. The hostile Sheikhs told our marabouts that they did not come toharm us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel had ever, orever should, pass through their country. This proposition was at once, as a matter of business and profession, approved of by our protectingmarabouts. What priest ever shrunk from the prospect of a conversion?

Matters having come to this point, our escort, camel-drivers andservants, could not but communicate to us the demand made--namely, thatwe should change our religion or return by the way we had come. Thistime, likewise, even our own servants prayed that we would accept theproposition, or seem to accept it, if only for a few days, to deliverourselves from present danger. My colleagues, and particularly Dr. Barth, indignantly and passionately resisted. For my part, I looked uponthe affair with a little more calm, the same thing having occurred to meon a former occasion in these deserts. I told our people that we wouldpay the tribute imposed by the Mahometan law on infidels, or for ourpassage through the country, or else that we would take our chance andreturn. Upon this our servants exclaimed, with tears in their eyes, "Toreturn would be certain death!" There was now nothing left for me to dobut to say, with my colleagues, that we would wait patiently for death, but that to change our religion was impossible. 

Although, of course, the threats that were made against us could not butproduce considerable uneasiness, I always felt pretty sure that theSheikhs did not exactly mean what they said, and would come at last, ashad the others, to a money compromise. Yet, during the absence of ourpeople, who took the message that we were ready to die for the honour ofour country and religion, I passed, as did my friends the Germans, amost distressing half hour. Every sound we heard seemed to be that ofpeople approaching to attack us. At length we heard voices, through thedarkness. Our ambassadors were coming back with the message: "It isarranged, O Consuls, that you shall pay a certain sum of money!"Children of the desert, you are not the only ones who make a demand forconscience sake, and then compound for cash!

We only afterwards learned how this negotiation was carried on with theenemy. Some dramatic scenes were reported to us by our servants asoccurring between our escort and the assailing troop, mixed withmarabouts. En-Noor, on returning from us after we had declared that wewould die for our religion, drew his sword and cast it on the groundbefore the people, calling out to the other Kailouees, "Come now, let usall die with the Christians!" On the other hand, the fiercest of theenemy every now and then got up and made as if they would rush at onceand spear us in our tents. Then there was reasoning of everydescription, and tremendous quotations from the Koran. The most humaneproposed that we should have ten days' grace to reflect on our situationbefore we were put to death. Our servants, who behaved well all throughthis trying business, made a reasonable proposition, that we should betaken to Tintalous to the great Sultan En-Noor, who should decide uponour case. But this did not suit the purpose of these pious propagandistsof the Muslim faith, who swore that the book ordered them to slaughterthe unbelievers, and at length were graciously pleased to accept the sumof thirty-five pounds sterling in goods!

_27th. _--In the morning we wished to start at once, and get away fromthis scene of our second disaster; but we had to stay to select thegoods which were to pay for our lives, liberties, and consciences. However, we at length got off; and whilst the bandits were swearing, andgriping one another by the throat, and fighting over the booty, wepushed hastily on towards Seloufeeat, which, according to our Tanelkums, is really the first country of Asben. As we entered the valley ourpeople kept up a running fire, to alarm any one who might feel disposedto attack us. We had been so much accustomed to inhospitality androbbers of late, that we confidently expected further difficulties assoon as we met with the inhabitants. 

After a march of four hours we arrived, and encamped in theneighbourhood of Seloufeeat. The valley has quite a Soudan appearance, but solely on account of the presence of the doom palm. There are, however, a considerable number of other trees, particularly the souak, the branches of which are eaten voraciously by our camels. It hasbeautiful green foliage, and is very bushy and spreading. Wheat, andghaseb, and other grain are grown in the valley, where there isabundance of good water. The wells are like those of Ghadamez, --that isto say, an upright beam with a long cross-pole, having a stone at oneend and a rope and bucket at the other, serves to bring up the water. 

We found here a caravan about to proceed direct to Mourzuk, and I seizedthe opportunity to write by it to Government and to my wife. During thenight some mischievous people again drove away all the camels of theKailouees, as well as ours. This disturbed us much, and we anticipatedfresh extortion and plunder; but we were assured that we had now nothingserious to apprehend. 

_28th. _--We stopped here all day to get back our camels. The caravan wasdelayed, and I wrote a detailed account of our two affairs toGovernment. 

A nephew of Sultan En-Noor came to Seloufeeat this morning, havingheard, probably, of our arrival. By him I wrote to En-Noor, from whom weexpect an answer to-morrow. 

In the evening eleven camels of the Kailouees were still missing, andsix of ours. Nevertheless, our people determined to go on next morning. I felt much discouraged this evening. A succession of bad affairs wasconstantly contradicting the assurances of our escort and their friends;the people of Seloufeeat were also excessively troublesome: there seemedno one in the place having authority. At last, near sunset, came forwarda certain Haj Bashaw, declaring that we had all been too badly treated, and he would obtain for us redress. This man has considerable wealth, and is in constant communication with Mourzuk, where he sends numbers ofslaves, and possesses property. He probably began to quake for hisproperty in Mourzuk, fearing the Turks would make reprisals. I went tobed with the assurance of this man that he would get back for us ourcamels; nevertheless, having been deceived a thousand times, I had mymisgivings. Yet I did not forget we had twice been delivered out of thehands of bandits by our escort and friends, so that we ought not todespair of seeing a brighter and a quieter time. After midnight I had afew hours of refreshing sleep. 

CHAPTER XV. 

Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--Peopleof Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--AFlying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forcedPassage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of theWady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees fromEn-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--RainySeason--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--TheEscort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The WaladSuleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfyingthem--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--ASpeech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food. 

_Aug. 29th. _--I rose early, and heard the good news that the camelsmissing in the first affair were found and brought to our people. Thisfilled everybody with good spirits, and we got off as soon as we couldfrom Seloufeeat. We were obliged to leave the boat in the charge of afaithful inhabitant, to fetch as soon, as we arrived at Tintaghoda. Before starting, Haj Bashaw made Yusuf write a letter in his name toMourzuk, to the Bashaw Mustapha and Makersee, declaring that he had nothad any news of us or our coming, but that now we should be conductedsafely up to the country of En-Noor. This is the only man who seems tohave any authority in Seloufeeat: the marabouts could do little beforehe came forward; the people live in the wildest state of lawlessindependence. 

In the morning before starting, the Sfaxee and Yusuf came up to me andsaid, "All up to now was lies; but henceforth all is truth. You havenothing more to fear--there is nothing now but good. " This speech I mostdevoutly devoured, and things certainly wore a brighter aspect thismorning. But we now anxiously wait news from En-Noor. 

We moved up the valley of Seloufeeat, our spirits buoyant and mountinghigh, whilst the air of the morning was soft and fresh, not unlike thatof Italy. After two hours we arrived at the City of Marabouts, orTintaghoda. 

There is considerable variety in the physiognomy of the people of Aheer, whom we have already seen; but in general, they have agreeablecountenances: and as to stature, many of them are very tall, thoughapparently not very robust. Some are of light olive complexion, withstraight noses and thin lips; but others, indeed the great number, approximate to the negro in feature. 

This portion of Aheer is still poor in provisions. Indeed, all thesedistricts are strictly Saharan. There are fine fertile valleys, butbetween them are rocks and complete deserts; the trees, which somewhatchange from the aspect of those in Central Sahara, are the immenselylarge tholukhs, some of them covered with parasitical plants; the doompalm, and the souak tree. I have also seen the ethel hereabouts. 

The houses of Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have, however, a true Africanaspect, being thatched with leaves of the doom palm. Some of them aresheds, with a roof supported by four poles, under which the peoplerepose in the shade by day and by night shelter themselves from noxiousvapours. 

The most extraordinary reports are beginning to circulate about us andour affairs. It has been confidently spread about that the three Azgher, who followed us from Tajetterat, had a letter in their possession, whichthey were to show to all the population beyond the Ghât territory, written by Khanouhen, to the effect that we were to be murdered, as soonas we got beyond that territory, by whomsoever the attempt might bemade. 

Another report is, that the sixty maharees, said to have been in pursuitof us at Taghajeet, did actually arrive at that district, but finding ustoo far ahead for them they returned; they came by the way of Tuat. These Haghars were to have fallen upon us during the night, and murderedall of us, even the Tanelkums, except Oud-el-Khair and two others. Thereis a route which leads direct to Tuat from Taghajeet, and also anotherfrom Aisou to Tuat. 

With regard to the marabouts, they seem quiet enough. It would appearthere is an enormous fellow amongst them, who every year, during onenight, flies to Mekka and back again. 

They report to the people that, insomuch as we are recommended by thegreat Sultan of the Turks, Abd-el-Majeed, by the Pasha of Tripoli, andall his marabouts, by the Pasha and great marabouts of Mourzuk, by allthe big and mighty people of Ghât and the Haghars, but more especiallyas they have found our names written in their books, and that we were tocome to them and visit their holy city, --with a thousand other suchreasons--they (the marabouts) have determined to receive us with openarms. The marabouts of all countries pretend to find events writtenplainly, or shadowed forth, in their books. 

After giving away about a hundred and fifty pounds sterling, thegreatest part, however, forced gifts, we have received our first presentin Aheer, viz. Two melons, some onions, and a small quantity of wheatthis evening, from Haj Bashaw, the influential man of Seloufeeat, already mentioned. There is still a drawback in this, for the giver knewthe father of Yusuf, and was anxious to show favour to his son, myinterpreter. But the fact must be recorded as something wonderful. 

The people of our caravan, escort and camel-drivers, offer us nothing;to them it would appear a sin to give anything to a Christian. Such arethe people we travel with. In regard to the matter of presents, God giveme patience with them. 

_30th. _--There is no answer from En-Noor, nor are our camelsforthcoming; which things naturally cause us anxiety. But let us hopefor the best, and pray to God to deliver us from all our misfortunes. 

We wait here to-day to see the results, and proceed to-morrow. Thismorning I made the account of the forced passage of the expedition fromTaghajeet to this place (Marabouteen). It amounts to the enormous sum ofnine hundred mahboubs--more than one hundred and fifty pounds sterling!I do not know what Government will think of it; but the expenditureincurred was certainly to save our lives. 

I gave this morning more presents to our servants, and lectured them ontheir duties. All things considered, they have behaved very well. Whenthey saw the great quantity of goods given away or forced from us bystrangers, they naturally began to think what there would be left forthem, who always remained with us, and worked for us. 

The being chief of an expedition of this kind is certainly no sinecure;but I am sure that no one who has not occupied a similar post canconceive the anxieties and disquietudes under which I have labouredduring all these difficult days. Almost ever since our departure fromGhât we have been in fear, either for our lives or our property. Dangerhas ever hung hovering over us, sometimes averted, sometimes seeming tobe turned into smoke; but within this week the strokes of ill fortunehave fallen upon us with increasing fury. We try to persuade ourselvesthat there is now nothing more to fear, and every one joins in nursingwhat may be a delusion. 

The marabouts indulge the vain hope that, through the influence of thegreat En-Noor of Tintalous, we may yet become Muslims. It would appearthat the whole of the inhabitants of the village of Tintaghoda aremarabouts, and so the race of saints is propagated from generation togeneration. Generally, the children of the marabouts are good-looking. It is said that some of the mischievous boys were the parties who droveoff our cattle. 

In spite of all the sanctity of this place, and its reputation that itis free from theft, En-Noor of our escort told us yesterday evening towatch well during the night, that our things might not be stolen. 

We Christians cannot trust our things here. The Sfaxee, however, leaveshis goods in the place, and will go with us to-morrow. Tintaghoda may bea safe dépôt for Muslims, not for Christians. 

I have omitted to notice in its proper place, but may record here, thatone of the free black females was lost for a couple of days in thedesert, and recovered after the disaster. 

Whatever we have yet seen of Aheer in a geological point of view, showsthat it is essentially a region of granite rocks, between which are aseries of fine valleys, running one into another. The granite is ingreat varieties; there are four specimens of granite marble; some piecesof pure limestone marble have also been collected; the granite rocks areblackened by the sun and atmosphere, and wear the appearance of basalt. 

About four o'clock this afternoon there was a cry in the encampment--notthat the Haghar were coming--not that another troop of robbers and wildpeople were advancing upon us to attack us; but the cry was, "_El wadyjaee!_" "The wady is coming!" Going out to look, I saw a broad whitesheet of foam advancing from the south between the trees of the valley. In ten minutes after a river of water came pouring along, and spread allaround us, converting the place of our encampment into an isle of thevalley. The current in its deepest part was very powerful, capable ofcarrying away sheep and cattle, and of uprooting trees. This is one ofthe most interesting phenomena I have witnessed during my present tourin Africa. The scene, indeed, was perfectly African. Rain had beenobserved falling in the south; black clouds and darkness covered thatzone of the heavens; and an hour afterwards came pouring down this riverof water into the dry, parched-up valley. This incident of WadyTintaghoda explains the Scriptural phrase, "rivers of waters;" for hereindeed was a river of water, appearing in an instant, and almost withoutnotice. It is not, however, necessary to come to the frontiers of Soudanto witness phenomena, of this nature. Even in Morocco similar suddenfloodings occur every rainy season. 

We had been some time employed in watching this singular scene, whenanother cry was heard. This was the announcement that our camels werecoming, --certainly a piece of good news that we had been anxiouslyexpecting; but it had often been given before, and after the firstexcitement we began to feel the sickness of disappointment. However, four of our camels were in reality brought in; there yet remain out twoof ours and three belonging to the Kailouees. However, our spirits beginnow really to revive. We learn that this act of restitution isattributable to the marabouts. 

I went to bed on receiving this news; but I had not rested long beforeDr. Barth called out, "Have you heard what has happened? Twenty-eightmaharees are arrived from En-Noor. " On further inquiries, I learned thatthe Sultan had sent us an escort of twenty men mounted, and eight onfoot; but rain having fallen and still continuing to fall, and the factof our being surrounded by water, prevented the approach of these troopsto the encampment. The intelligence of their arrival was brought by aman well known to the Tanelkums. In the afternoon we had heard thatEn-Noor had received a confused account of our two encounters with thearmed bands, and that we had been destroyed by them, or nearly so, buthad not yet received our courier. This circumstance tranquillised us. Wehad been anxiously expecting news from En-Noor. The people always speakof maharees, and not of mounted men; so that twenty maharees are twentymen mounted on maharees. It rained this evening and during the night:everything was damp around us. We now begin to feel, indeed, that we arein a humid atmosphere. 

_31st. _--I rose early, but it rained hard, and everybody kept withintent. I am much delighted with my double Bornou tent, for, although itis nothing but a species of gauze cotton-work, it still keeps out therain. 

We are collecting the names and qualities of the chief among ourassailants, as we shall have to make a formal complaint against them, not only in order to obtain restitution for our goods, but for the sakeof any future travellers. The people who first attacked us are calledEl-Fadeea, or El-Fadayan, and are styled by Yusuf _Arab_ Tuaricks, orTuaricks living in tents. This tribe was joined by bandits and a fewadventurers from all the surrounding districts. 

The people of the second attack are called Aghazar: these are also ArabTuaricks, or people living in tents. They were joined by people fromSeloufeeat, Tintaghoda, and all the neighbouring places. 

The people appear to have gathered all confusedly together, headed bytheir chiefs and countenanced by the marabouts, to destroy the Infidelswho were come to pollute their country; but, undoubtedly, the major partwere excited against us by the hope of plunder. 

All the inhabitants of Ghanet[11] are Maghata, or descendants of thechildren of the Tuaricks, Haghar and Azgher, which were born to them bytheir slaves. It is these Maghata who were said to be in pursuit of usunder Sidi Jafel. There are many of the same people in the open desert, for the most part bandits, or at least inclined to that way of life. They levy contributions on the caravans, and on the settled people whenthey can venture. 

 [11] This is the oasis of Janet, mentioned previously. --ED. 

The valley, which embraces Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, is said to extend, by a series of connexions, as far as Zinder, --probably a fancifulconnexion of the people. It is a most picturesque wady, lined with blackgranite rocks, some rising high into castellated peaks on thesouth-east, with a lower range of hills on the north-west. It is notabove half a mile wide in its mean breadth; herbage does not abound overall its bed, but trees cover its surface. The water is mostly rainwater; here and there, however, springs are found. All the water isgood, and copious in supply. 

If we may judge from what we have seen of the marks of late rains inthese districts, and the freshness of the herbage, the rainy season isjust beginning in Aheer. There is not yet very abundant herbage, but itwill soon greatly increase. 

The rain continues to pour in torrents, the boundary mountains on eitherhand are scarcely visible, and a watery vapour prevents us from tracingthe course of the valley. We have hitherto had to struggle againstmental anxieties, against fatigues, heat, drought, and thirst: we havenow to contend with rain and with floods. Everything is becoming awfullydamp, and everybody looks awfully dismal. I can see, from the lugubriouscountenances of the Kailouees and the blacks, that the rainy season istheir real winter. They go shivering about, and seem as if they werehalf drowned. Our Bornou gauze-cotton tent still bears up well, however, and keeps out the rain. 

I was engaged in admiring the tent, and in reflecting on the changedregion into which we had entered--a region of luxuriant vegetation andwatery atmosphere--when there was again a wild holloa of "The floods arepouring down upon us! The wady is coming!" Our people, however, contented themselves at first with shouting, and made no preparationsfor the advancing flood; but in a short time they found it necessary tobestir themselves, and began to make dams and dykes, with the aid ofsticks and hatches. These expedients proved of no avail. The watersswelled wildly up, higher and higher, and sheets of foaming waves camewhirling in amongst us. I called out to Yusuf to select some high groundat once, to which our goods might be conveyed. He calmly replied, "Thepeople still stay where they are;" implying that there was no danger, that the inundation would subside like the former one, and that weshould escape with a wetting. Not so, however. All the low parts of thevalley were already covered with a turbid stream, that broke fiercelyround the trunks of the trees; and at length the mounting tidethreatened our tent. Yusuf then made a little child's dam around, as ifin sport; but in a few minutes this was swept away, and we foundourselves standing in the water. 

It was now absolutely necessary to move; and our people, who seemeduntil then to have been paralysed by the humidity, as we in northernclimates sometimes are with cold, began to bestir themselves, and totransfer our tents and baggage to a piece of ground which roseconsiderably above the level of the valley, and was surrounded withrushing waters. The remainder of the caravan imitated us, and we soonsaw them all occupying the summits of little islands, whither thecamels, at least such as did not instinctively take refuge therethemselves, were also driven. This was a good opportunity of seeing aspecimen of African character. The Kailouees made no preparation for thedeluge until the last moment, and then seemed absolutely to make theworst possible. They rolled their bales of dry goods in the water as ifthey were so many logs of wood, although by lifting them up a little allmight have at first been saved quite dry. Meanwhile the black servantswere dancing, singing, and rolling about in the waters, as if somesudden blessing had overtaken them. [12]

 [12] The black people of Central Africa, whose character and opinions we do not yet understand, seem to take peculiar delight in those very natural phenomena which civilised nations regard as disastrous. Among other instances, I have seen an old negress, usually gloomy and taciturn, quite intoxicated by an earthquake. Whilst others were thinking of their safety, she ran about the courtyard on her hands and feet, rolling over, laughing and whooping, as if she were a devil and this was news from the infernal regions. --ED. 

The water still continued to rise, and to foam over the margin of theisland. We were compelled by degrees to retreat towards the centre, andas there was no sign of abatement, and as the whole valley had becomeone rushing river, covered with floating trees, --some shooting singlyalong, others entangled into rafts or floating islands, I began toentertain serious misgivings. Never was there a more perfect picture ofa deluge! It was the Biblical deluge in miniature: and I calculated withintense interest how many inches additional rise would utterly destroyour goods, and how many inches more peril our lives. The most gloomyforebodings troubled me. I had always looked forward to Aheer as a havenof safety, and instead thereof it had proved to be a place ofpersecution. When men had ceased to fight against us, nature began. Ithought I could hear the fanatical people of Tintaghoda say one to theother, "Ah! they saved their lives by money, but now God comes in topunish and destroy them. " Yet whilst I stood apart and tortured myselfin this wise, our people, children of the day, who take no thought forthe morrow, satisfied that the waves had not yet reached them, were fullof merriment and laughter, and seemed to mock the flood, that still roseand rose, bending the largest trees, sweeping away the brushwood, androaring angrily around the margin of the islands. Perhaps they knew thattheir lives, at least, were safe; whilst I reflected that, if even wecould swim to shore, leaving our property to the wild mercies of thewaves, we should land in an enemy's country, without the means ofsatisfying the cupidity of the first bandit who chose to attack us, andwould most probably soon be sacrificed. 

I was anxiously watching the progress of the inundation when at last itseemed to be checked, and no longer to rise. God had not, then, abandoned us, and we were not driven from the fire to the waters toperish! The flood remained stationary for awhile, still rolling alongthe valley, which it seemed to fill from side to side; then we noticed aslight decrease, then a progressive and rapid one: hope buoyed up ourspirits, and we thanked the Almighty for our deliverance. As I havementioned, I have seen floods before, but never one on so grand a scaleas this, which was truly African in its magnitude and character. 

As if Providence were now resolved to visit us with marked favour, justat the moment when the waters began visibly to decrease, and patches ofland to appear here and there, the escort sent by Sultan En-Noor cameriding over the neighbouring heights. Our people discovered them, andshouted, "See, the Kailouees! the Kailouees!"

The waters rose above the general surface of the wady full two feet anda-half. Had this deluge come during the night we should scarcely havesaved ourselves; or, at any rate, the greater part of our property andour camels must have perished. The power of such a body of water rushingalong is tremendous. A great number of houses of Tintaghoda were carriedaway, and the inhabitants declared that they never remembered such anoccurrence to have happened before. I can well believe them, otherwisethe site of the town would have been changed for higher ground. Treesnumberless were uprooted, and brought down by the mighty current, whichmust have considerably altered the appearance of the valley. We couldalready see that the earth was ploughed up in all directions; and whenthe inundation was at its height, serious fears were entertained lestthe island on which we stood should itself be swept from under our feet. 

When the waters had subsided a little the nephew of En-Noor came to usfrom the town, to see our situation. He then went to meet the Mahareeswhich had arrived from his uncle, and soon sent to tell us that all wasright, that this party came purposely to afford us protection, and thatit included the sons of En-Noor, their nephews, and a son-in-law, besides many household servants; in all, thirty-one men mounted, and therest on foot. 

In the evening we moved out of the valley, and encamped on the highground. The rain continued to incommode us. The things of the Germanswere all wet--I managed to keep mine dry; but our sense of security nowkept up our spirits. 

Towards the evening the whole male population came out of the town tosee the ravages of water, and learn how we fared. There might be fiftypersons, men and boys. These marabouts pretend that when they first sawthe escort of En-Noor, they thought it was an enemy come to attack uswhilst isolated by the floods of rain. 

They said there were some hundred bandits and other lawless mencollected behind the rocks, waiting for us, but on seeing the escort ofEn-Noor they had retired by small numbers. Certainly there may have beensome twenty or thirty such people, and, undoubtedly, the escort ofEn-Noor produced a salutary effect upon these brigands, as well as uponthe holy maraboutee population who drove away our camels. 

When at the Marabouteen, as Tintaghoda is called, a very finegold-embroidered waistcoat was brought by the escort of En-Noor to me, to ask what it was worth. I guessed about two hundred reals; Yusufthought the same. It appeared that this waistcoat was the property ofAbd-el-Galeel, and was taken as plunder during the last expedition ofthe Kailouees against the Walad Suleiman. There are several slaves alsoat Seloufeeat, who once were the property of these Arabs. According tothe report of the Kailouees they have destroyed all the WaladSuleiman, --killed them every one. They went against the Arabs tenthousand strong; some of the enemy, however, are said to have died ofhunger. It is, besides, reported that the people of Bornou assisted intheir destruction. Abd-el-Galeel himself is rumoured to have beenkilled. Evidently many of the unfortunate Arabs have been surprised, andmany of them slaughtered; but I cannot believe in their totalannihilation. We shall be better informed at Zinder and Kuka. 

_Sept. 1st. _--We started late, on account of our things being all wet. The morning was as favourable for drying as the day before had been forwetting, there being a high wind with sunshine. We journeyed on fivehours and a-half, and encamped near some pools of water. A cascadeduring rainy weather shoots down from the highest tops of the rockymountains. 

Before us was a pleasant valley, wherein were the ruins of huts that hadbeen carried away by the waters. Ferajee invited me to visit the Waterwith him, and I went. In this neighbourhood the rocky heights assumedtheir boldest forms, many of the peaks being considerably elevated; allgranite. 

Some people were heard in the evening, when dark, and we fired severalshots. The Tanelkums had seen men skulking behind the rocks during ourshort march. 

_2d. _--We rose early, and made a march of eight hours and a-half:country as yesterday. Our Kailouee escort left us at noon, to go toAghooou and Janazaret, or Zanairas, their homes. I must write thecharacters of En-Noor, Deedee, and Ferajee hereafter. They are prettywell fixed in my memory. These individuals are amongst the number ofpersons who "turned out, " to use the vulgar expression, better than weanticipated from their first transactions with us. 

On encamping, Mohammed, the son-in-law of En-Noor, came to my tent, andtold Yusuf that we must now pay for our escort, as we were within a fewhours of Tintalous, and did not require it more; also that the peoplewished to go to their homes, for they had been collected from variousparts of the country. I must observe, that, considering the time thatelapsed between the departure of the courier from Seloufeeat and thearrival of the escort at Tintaghoda, these people had been collectedvery quickly, which showed En-Noor to be a man of business andauthority. 

I expected we should have some trouble to satisfy thirty-one people. Yusuf, aided by the Tanelkums, sorted out about eighty-seven reals'worth of goods. This was offered as sufficient, but did not content eventhe chief persons, much less the smaller gentlemen. We then addedanother burnouse, and other things, making up about one hundred reals. This the chiefs accepted; but not so the little men. They stormed andswore; and some of them even ran to seize our bales of goods. However, whatever we had given we should have had the same results, and we mustexpect similar quarrels all through Africa until our journey's end. Iobserved, at last, that many took their portions and retired, and I feltconfident that all would finish without violence being done us. 

When I had been in bed two hours, half-sleeping and half-waking, Iturned round my head, and saw my tent full of people. I had not heardthem come in. They were the Germans, Yusuf, Mohammed Tunisee, and otherpeople. They were all busy examining the scattered contents of a bale ofgoods. I asked what was the matter, and was told briefly that some ofthe _canaille_ of our escort had carried away a bale of Dr. Barth'sgoods, but that the chief had made them restore the greater part of thespoil. In the first moments I could not help laughing. It was certainlycomical to be robbed by one's own escort. We had now thirty-onechaouches for two whom we obtained in Tripoli. On this I went to sleep. 

_3d. _--Early in the morning Mohammed En-Noor paid me a visit, andpromised me that all the things should be restored--not the smallestthing should be lost. 

I looked about, and saw that the greater number of our escort haddisappeared during the night, and gone to their homes. We now commencedour last stage to Tintalous. Mounted on my camel, I could not helpreflecting that we were tormented to the very doors of the dwelling ofEn-Noor, that the people seemed determined we should have no rest tillwe arrived there. Afterwards, peradventure, we may find a little repose;but who can tell?

The rain incommoded us as we advanced. However, in two hours we arrivedat the little village of Asara, where half-a-dozen inhabitants greetedus with a stare; and an hour afterwards entered the broad and spaciousvalley of Tintalous, firing a salute as we did so, in compliment to theinhabitants. 

We had heard much of the great city of Tintalous; and I confess that, though accustomed to desert exaggerations, my mind had dwelt upon thisplace so long, that I expected a much more imposing sight than thatwhich presented itself. This mighty capital consisted of a mass ofhouses and huts, which we calculated to be no more than a hundred andfifty in number, situated in the middle of the valley, with trees hereand there interspersed. It was nothing but a large village. Still, asthe termination of our journey for the present, and its bearing a namewhich has been hitherto thrown down at haphazard anywhere towards thecentre of the southern Sahara, we hailed it with delight. Both huts andhouses wore a truly Soudan character, and I felt that to a certainextent the object of the Mission was already accomplished. 

Mohammed En-Noor chose us out a good place for an encampment, upon somesand-hills overlooking the entire country. When we had pitched tent, Mr. Yusuf Moknee was despatched to carry our compliments to the great man ofthe town, Sultan En-Noor. This distinguished personage he found laid upwith rheumatism, and unable to receive us as we desired. However, heexpressed a wish to see Dr. Overweg in his character of medical man, andmade a long harangue to Yusuf, the substance of which was, that inasmuchas we had come from Constantinople, [13] from Tripoli, from Fezzan, fromGhât, in peace and safety, why should he think of eating us up anddestroying us, like the people of Taghajeet and others?--"No; let theChristians rest in peace. I will now protect them--let them not fear. IfI had not been ill, I would have come myself, and fetched them fromTaghajeet, and no one should have touched them. Now, I will take themmyself to Zinder, or send my sons with them. They shall be protected ontheir journey to Bornou and Soudan. "

 [13] Where he got this news I cannot tell. 

I shall only observe on this, that I do not think Sultan En-Noor couldhave brought us clear through the countries of Taghajeet and Tidek. Wemight have paid something less, but we must have paid. However, we feltglad on hearing the report of this speech, and waited patiently for theevening supper of the great man; but it did not come, to our greatdisappointment. The Tanelkums said that this was a kind of home forthem, and that En-Noor always sent them a supper on the evening of theirarrival. When I saw these good people supperless, I considered thatEn-Noor would not give one supper without the other, and was notprepared for both. 

We felt our case to be rather hard, especially the Germans; for they hadnothing of their own to eat but dry kuskusou and onions. I was a littlebetter off. We could get nothing from the town during the day, not evena fowl or eggs, nor even a bit of cheese. 

Nevertheless, we had been told that everything was abundant in thisplace. It appears all the sheep are at a distance, out to graze; as forbullocks, there are none. Dr. Overweg drew out his bottle of port wine, and we three Europeans soon made an end of that, and retired for thenight in pretty good spirits. 

Dr. Overweg and Yusuf calculated the number of people who were reportedto be in pursuit of us from Tajetterat to the Marabouteen, at threehundred and sixty. The passage of the expedition from Tajetterat toTintalous has cost the Government about one hundred and fifty poundssterling, at the least. I cannot get over this. However, let us raiseour hearts in thankfulness to Almighty Providence, who still watchesover us, preserves our health, and saves us from destruction. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Promises of the Sultan--Yellow-paintedWomen--Presents--Anecdotes--Prepare to visit En-Noor--OurReception--Dialogue--Seeming Liberality of the Sultan--Greediness of hisPeople--No Provisions to be got--Fat Women--Nephew of theSultan--Tanelkum Beggars--Weather--A Divorced Lady--Aheer Money--OurCamels again stolen--Account of the Tanelkums--Huckster Women--AheerLandscape--Various Causes of Annoyance--No News of the Camels--Anecdoteof my Servants--Storms--Revolution in the Desert--Name of theCountry--Dr. Overweg--Money and Tin--Saharan Signs--Habits of theRain--Burial of a Woman--Demands of Es-Sfaxee--Salt-cakes ofBilma--People of Tintalous--Wild Animals--List of Towns andVillages--Population of Aheer and Ghât. 

_Sept. 4th. _--This morning I sent Yusuf with our recommendations toEn-Noor. He returned in the best possible humour, repeating that theSultan was determined to protect us, and see us safe to Soudan andBornou. 

A freed black came into my tent, played on his one-stringed fiddle, andsang an extempore song for the protection of the Consul. I gave him ahandkerchief. It appears that he is from Tunis. 

Yesterday, some specimens of the women of the lower classes of this towncame to our encampment. I was astonished to see them such barbarians asto daub their faces with yellow ochre. I did not expect this in theMahommedan country of Aheer. They had a little ghaseb, a few onions, andother little things to barter. It is the most difficult thing in theworld to deal with them; and it requires as long to exchange things ofthe value of a penny, as for two London merchants to agree aboutmerchandise of the value of a hundred thousand pounds!

When I had paid the En-Noor escort, I made a present to Yusuf and Saïd. To the former I gave a fine burnouse (value thirty-four mahboubs), andtold him I did so as a compensation for the extraordinary difficultieswhich we had encountered on the road from Ghât to Aheer, but that Icould not write to Government for a present for him unless we could makesome treaties with the inhabitants and princes of Central Africa. ToSaïd I gave a veneese and a lecture. Our servants have not behaved sowell as they ought to have done, considering that they are treated somuch better than the servants of Muslims. 

Anecdotes of our late adventures are still in circulation amongst us, and I have learned some new ones to-day. The _naïveté_ of one of them isextreme; but I can do more than allude to it. One of our partytransgressed a custom which the Mahommedans have absurdly madeobligatory. Great indignation was excited, even amongst the escort sentfor our protection by En-Noor; and one of them exclaimed: "If he do thesame thing again, and do not follow the way of us Muslims, I will sendan arrow through him. "

During the night of the second affair, Oud-el-Khair used this niceargument: "What will be gained if you do kill these three Christians?There are plenty more in the English country!" Many topics of a similarcharacter were resorted to. 

Some of the Tanelkums leave us to-day. We have to pay them two reals acamel-load for bringing us from Tintaghoda to Tintalous. We have hiredof them eleven camels in all. The original agreement was to carry ourgoods and baggage from Mourzuk to Tintaghoda, for which we paid dear. 

Having heard that the great En-Noor would receive me to-day orto-morrow, as I pleased, I determined at once to see him, and made readythe presents for his highness. We had some difficulty in making theselection. At length we amassed a variety of things, of the value of onehundred and twenty-two mahboubs prime cost, or about fifty-two realsvalue here. 

At the Asar (or 3 P. M. ) I dressed, and went off to see the great man, accompanied by my German colleagues. On entering the village, I at oncerecognised in a long mud-shed the Sultan's palace. It seemed, indeed, apalace compared with the circular hasheesh huts by which it wassurrounded; and in that direction, accordingly, we bent our steps. Ongaining admission, we found the mighty potentate half-dozing on hiscouch. He woke up as we entered, and sitting upon his hams, politelyexcused himself for being found _en déshabille_. To remedy this state ofthings as much as possible, he immediately wound round his head a blackband or turban; and having thus improved his toilet, bade us sit down. Itook my place very near him, and observed his appearance with someinterest. He was a venerable-looking black, but, like most of theKailouees, had something of an European cast of features. They say he isabout seventy-eight years old, and manifestly suffers the infirmities ofthat great age. 

The dialogue was begun by the Sultan asking us how we were in health, and whether we had not now more quiet than down on the road? Then headded, that he was himself very poorly, but that at this season of theyear this was nothing uncommon. Being in a garrulous mood, he allowed uslittle time to reply, and went on with a string of compliments. Of thestate of his own country he said, "There is now a general fermentationthroughout all the districts of Aheer. The people have thrown off theyoke of their sultans or magistrates, and the roads are infested withbands of robbers. " In fact, it would appear that the inhabitants of thisout-of-the way kingdom have just fallen into the crisis of a revolution. What grievances brought about this state of things we have not yetlearned; but, unfortunately for us, we have arrived at a most insecureseason. 

Of the people of his own district the Sultan said, "You have nothing tofear from them, except that thieves may come in the night. Beware ofthem; and fall upon any one who may come near your tents after dark. There may be people who will slink from the neighbouring towns to robyou; take care and watch during the night. " Upon this I asked him for acouple of servants as guards, but he replied that it was not necessary. 

Of the Tanelkums he observed: "It will be better when they are gone, formany strangers come to them, known neither to you nor to me; and theymay rob you. " This was an excellent observation, for on the road Ialways found that the Haghar strangers, the bandits, and all the idle, low characters, who might follow the caravan, never failed to makefriends with our Tanelkums, and thus gained a footing to carry on theirtreacherous designs. 

The greater part of the interview was thus occupied by a little orationon the part of this respectable Sultan, who wound up by saying that hehoped, if it pleased God, that we should now enjoy some repose, andafterwards be conducted safely to Zinder and Soudan. 

Observing that the dialogue was flagging, I caused the presents we hadbrought with us to be laid out. The Sultan examined all the articlescarefully and quietly, but said not a word. Then his son-in-law informedus aside that it was now time to retire. We did so with manycompliments, trusting that our visit had produced a favourableimpression. I was very anxious to know what was thought of thepresent, --the largest we have yet given, much larger than what wasreceived by either Hateetah or Wataitee. I sent two of my servants aboutto pick up the news in town. I was not disappointed; I hoped to pleasehis highness, and succeeded. He was greatly delighted; and, moreover, displayed immense generosity for an African. Immediately we had retiredhe called together all the great people of the town, and thus addressedthem: "See the fine present these Christians have brought me. I shall, however, only take a blue burnouse for myself. The rest I give to you. Take all else. " The notables were greatly pleased at being called in toshare in the gifts, and exclaimed, "The Consul is a fine man; a man of alarge heart. " So far, so good. But some of the lesser men were heard tosay, "Ah! now the Christians are in peace, and yet they give us nothing. How much did they give away, and yet get no rest!" Sure enough; buthaving been thus forcedly generous, we had now scarcely anything left togive. It would require a thousand camel-loads to satisfy all the tribesand people in this route, even if their exigencies did not rise inproportion to our wealth. 

We have not yet been able to procure any provisions in Tintalous. Aftera journey of two months, during which we have been obliged to feed thewhole caravan, Kailouees and Tanelkums, to say nothing of the robbersand bandits, who were pleased to levy this kind of tribute upon us, wearrive at a friendly town, and can find nothing to eat! This is reallytoo bad. Fortunately, I put away three bottles of olive oil in thespirit-boxes. With these and my little macaroni I may manage, perhaps, to subsist until provisions can be found. But my servants have finishedtheir last _hemsa_, and the Germans have nothing left. Our last resourceis our biscuits, which I am sorry we are obliged to eat in this earlypart of our journey. This supply of biscuits has certainly cost us muchin carriage--many hard dollars; but nevertheless we have found itexcellent for our health, and it now promises to save us fromstarvation. We had heard contradictory reports on the road; some peoplesaying we should find everything in Aheer, and others nothing. Thelatter prophecy seems likely to turn out true. 

There is not much herbage about where we are, so we are obliged to sendaway the camels some distance to feed. It appears to be only thebeginning of the rainy season in Tintalous. We have passed through muchfiner districts in Aheer than this; e. G. That of Taghajeet, where weobserved fat women and fat sheep! But we have not yet seen theenormously fat women that Mr. Gagliuffi described. This, of course, would always be difficult for us, except in our capacities asphysicians. Dr. Overweg has the best chance of this piece of good luck. 

_5th. _--We are much troubled with a nephew of En-Noor, the same thatacted as the courier from Seloufeeat to Tintalous. We gave him a whiteburnouse, and he is worrying Yusuf to let him have a finer and betterone. This individual has given us more trouble than anything else inTintalous. Little things here, as elsewhere, prove more annoying thangreat things. To set matters straight, we have offered him a betterburnouse, but he is not yet content. 

The Tanelkums are also very troublesome. I always saw that we mustbeware of them, for they will never let us rest, if they can help it, whilst they are with us. Beg, beg, beg; this alone describes theirconduct towards us. 

All the people we have had about us seem to have considered us theirlawful prey, and seek to gain their ends, if not by violence, at leastby continual importunities: still it must be acknowledged that theTanelkums rendered us considerable service on the road. But, evenwithout this claim, they would, no doubt, have still pursued the samesystem of eternal begging. 

This day and yesterday we had thunder, lightning, and much rain. The skywas covered with clouds, yet the thermometer rose at half-past three inthe afternoon to 82° in our tent. I walked a little before the tentearly this morning, to keep up my bodily vigour. I had a little internalpain yesterday. If I suffer in Africa from disease, it will mostprobably be from dysentery. God grant that I may escape, and be gratefulfor his mercy!

Sultan En-Noor yesterday observed, respecting the passage of Christiansthrough these countries, "that after a short time the feelings of thepeople would subside, and nothing more be thought of us. " This may be;but it will require the passage of many Christians before the tendencyto fanaticism is sufficiently curbed to render the road safe for them. 

I mentioned in my diary at Mourzuk, that one of our blacks had exercisedthe privilege of divorce with respect to his wife. This lady did notleave the caravan, but has since passed from tent to tent, as thecaprice of fortune carried her. She was first taken up by Sakonteroua;then by En-Noor, our Kailouee guide; and afterwards by some otherperson. Yesterday I saw her in the tent of the Sfaxee. The poor womansubmits to the inconstancy of Fortune with marvellous fortitude. She isnow quite merry, and inclined to play the coquette. Poor thing! Let usbe thankful for her that she has been granted this elasticity of temper, and that she is willing to the last to cheer gloom of whomsoever will becheered in return for a little tenderness and protection. 

I insert a note upon the money used here:

The large dollar (douro) 7 Tunisian piastres. The small dollar 5 Tun. Piast. (in Mourzuk). The large dollar 3 metagals. The small dollar 2 metagals (in Tintalous). One metagal 1000 wadas (in Tintalous). One mahboub 7 Tun. Piast. (60 paras in Mourzuk and Tripoli). One metagal 40 drâa[14] (in Aheer and Soudan). 

 [14] The drâa is _an arm_ of strips of cotton stuff, about two inches long. 

I was engaged in setting down this information, when intelligence wasbrought me that our camels had again been carried off. This affront wasoffered us yesterday at noon, during a storm of rain, before my visit tothe Sultan; but Yusuf had thought it best to keep the matter concealedfrom me, hoping restitution would be made before I heard of it. I senthim immediately to lay our case before the Sultan. So it seems that weare to be hunted here, even, in our repose under the protection ofEn-Noor! It is impossible to tell how we shall get safely to Zinder. Ourboat is still at Seloufeeat. Yusuf is gone to see En-Noor. 

Naturally I feel very much annoyed about the missing camels. They werestolen, it seems, not only in the middle of the day, but at a distanceof not more than a quarter of a mile from the residence of En-Noor! Thisis too bad, really too bad. Are we never to have any repose?

In the evening, as a slight consolation, we were fortunate enough topurchase some provisions. The German got two goats, and I some samen. Ialso borrowed ghaseb until we could buy. 

_6th. _--I got up in better health this morning, and felt the benefit ofthe goats'-flesh broth. I observe that it does not rain during thenight; the showers come on generally in the afternoon. The mornings aredry, fine, and hot. This morning, at half-past seven A. M. , thethermometer stood under the tent at 79° Fahr. 

The Tanelkums, by the way, left us yesterday evening. They all return inthe course of fifteen days; some of them go on to Zinder, and othersmake their way back to Mourzuk. Haj Omer quarrelled desperately withYusuf before he started. 

I may here make a few observations on these curious people. Generally, the Tanelkums are reckoned amongst the most effeminate and civilised ofthe Tuaricks of the north; and, indeed, such appears to be theircharacter, as developed in our transactions with them. Some of them havemore the manners of merchants than camel-drivers; and the mercantilecharacter always tames men in the desert. Throughout their journey withus they were at all times polite, and at last even became quite amiable. During the two affairs which we had with the robbers, their conduct wasregular and brave: once or twice only they seemed to waver. Butprobably, had their own interests been imminently exposed, they wouldhave abandoned us to save themselves, at which we should not have beensurprised. Had there been a regular battle, in which they had takenpart, the road would certainly have been closed to them ever afterwards. 

Like all Tuaricks, these Tanelkums are great beggars, and such of themas were with us allowed no opportunity to escape of getting somethingout of us. They are always accompanied by a few Haghars or Azghers. Infeatures they are for the most part European; a few only are marked bynegro characters; but nearly all are very dark in complexion. They aregenerally good-looking, tall, and slightly made. Their manners are quiteTuarick, and they speak a regular Tuarick dialect. They also speak alittle Arabic, and understand the Hausa. As to religion, they are verydevout and superstitious, and remain long at their prayers. 

The huckster-women of the town continue to visit us, bringing theirsmall wares. Many of them have their faces painted very picturesquelywith green and yellow. They are mere negroes in features. These womenbring very small quantities of the dark-brown rice of Soudan, withghaseb, onions, and other little things. 

I find that our servants are to-day in better spirits, because we havegot a supply of provisions. I repeat again, that the Germans and myselfenjoy tolerably good health, but none of us can be said to be in a stateof robust bodily vigour. 

This portion of the landscape of Aheer, if I may use the term landscape, does not differ materially from the first which we entered. The rocksare all granite, and of one colour. 

The greater part of the trees are tholukh and souak. The hasheeshconsists chiefly of the _bou rekabah_. 

In the valley I observe a fine old specimen of the Soudan tree, called, in Bornouese, _kărághou_. The little black-and-white bird which hasfollowed us all through the desert from Mourzuk still appears here, andsings a little. 

It is difficult to describe the state of mind in which I write down allthese things. Here we are helplessly encamped, our camels driven away, and no signs of their return. Certainly En-Noor sends us promises thathe will do what he can for us; but though we do not doubt his goodwillwe begin to be uncertain of his power. He is still suffering fromrheumatism and fever, and they tell us he is not able to receivestrangers. Let us hope that this seclusion bodes no ill to ourinterests. Some of his female relations came this morning to ask forlittle presents. I gave the mother of Mohammed, who commanded ourescort, a handkerchief. This young man has, we are told, gone out thismorning alone to search for our lost camels. Meanwhile, in the hope thatour property may be restored to us, I propose to write to Zinder for anescort. It is better and more agreeable to pay escorts than robbers inthese countries. But I must wait for the recovery of En-Noor. They tellus now that there are no robbers or bandits along the Soudan route atall; and the proof cited is, that the smallest caravans pass in safety. The property of Christians, however, will probably be considered ascommon property, the lawful prey of every one who may be disposed topossess himself of it. This news of peace, therefore, concerns us not. We may still have to buy our way. 

The thermometer under the tent this evening, at an hour after dark, was81° Fahrenheit. 

_7th. _--I rose late, after a more refreshing sleep than usual, and feltmuch better in health. The sky was overcast with thick clouds; and thethermometer stood at 77° at seven A. M. My first question was, whetherany news had been heard of the camels; but I only learned that on theprevious day many people had gone in search of them, scouring thecountry. The servants notice that I am much depressed, and endeavour tocheer me. On the whole I must say that they show considerable goodfeeling. 

I remember now with pleasure, that when we were attacked on the road andI appeared with arms amongst them, they always insisted upon my going tomy tent, exclaiming: "Go, O Consul, to your tent; rest there: you shallnot fight. " Some added: "Let them kill us first; then you may fight ifyou please: but whilst we are living remain in your tent!" These werenot mere words, but expressed sympathy and fidelity. I ought to mention, that all along this journey I went among the people by the name ofConsul Yakōb, whilst Dr. Barth was known as the Reis, and Dr. Overwegas the Taleb. 

On this occasion these poor fellows threw words of consolation to me inthe midst of their bartering for provisions, which at the present momentwas their greatest care, if I except that of eating them. They have beenliving on short commons, and have suffered as much as we have. Want ofregular food may have had an effect on me. I find that my hopes of goodhealth are to be disappointed. I am obliged to keep my bed thisafternoon, and to refrain from nourishment. Meanwhile a storm againcomes on, laden with sand, which covers everything. Then follows violentrain, which lasts until late in the evening. 

As I lay, troubling myself with apprehension of the Kailouees, En-Noorof our escort came to pay us a visit. He says he has been to his owntown, and promises us better fortune higher up towards Soudan than wehave hitherto had. He is himself about to start with a large caravan forZinder, in about twenty days. Among other news, he tells us of theprogress of the insurrection. The tribes passed some distance to ourright a few days ago, moving towards Asoudee and Aghadez, to instal anew Sultan. The revolution is now at its height, but may soon be broughtto a close. It is fortunate that Tintalous lay out of the way of theserude desert revolutionists, as a visit from them might have beenattended with evil consequence to us. 

The excitement caused by this intelligence was a little calmed by thereport that our camels had been heard of in the direction of Aghazar. Our friend Mohammed is in full pursuit of them, with fair hopes ofprocuring their return. En-Noor says that we shall certainly get themback, --all; but he adds the qualifying phrase, _Inshallah!_--if itplease God! Meanwhile "patience, " as my comforter advises me. He isquite a narrative man, and enlarges on geography. According to him, Asben is the Soudan name for all this country, whilst it is known asAheer by the people of the north. 

_8th. _--I felt much better this morning, having got rid of thediarrhoea. The weather was very damp, and the thermometer at six A. M. Stood at 72°. At one o'clock it rose to 90°, but still there was coolair flying about the tent. The sky remained overcast all day, but birdswere singing as if it were the opening of the Aheer spring. 

Dr. Overweg remarks truly, that you cannot shoot a man in this country, even if he knocks you down and robs you; for that would be the murder byan infidel of a Muslim, and the whole population would rise up againstyou. The observation may become a practical one of these days; andsubmission will prove to be the only remedy, whatever may happen. 

Another result of practical observation! We shall have to destroy ourtin biscuit-chests, for all the people swear that they are full ofmoney. Our own servants go so far as to say that these chests, byexciting the curiosity and cupidity of the people, have been the causesof most of our misfortunes. In whatever case, every European travellingthrough these countries will be considered to have half his baggageconsisting of gold and silver. I have been telling the people all alongI have not any money, but no one quite believes me. 

In this country, by the way, and all Saharan countries where manylanguages are spoken, a great deal is done by signs. The sign of thecrooked forefinger represents the crouching of man and beast undersickness; but no sign is more common than which represents the largeSpanish dollar, namely, forming a circle with the thumb and forefinger, and turning the thumb downwards. 

Escort En-Noor, as I am obliged to distinguish him, returns to his placethis night, and takes with him three or four camels, to give themsomething to eat; they are starving here near the town. I settled withhim for the thirty-seven reals of Wataitee in goods, not money;--so theQueen's property goes!

The peculiarity of this locality at the present season of the yearappears to be, that it rains every afternoon, beginning about threeP. M. ; the showers being preceded by a few puffs of strong wind, andcontinuing till an hour before dark. This is fortunate for us, for weknow how to prepare ourselves for circumstances. Under tent we have amost drenching dampness during the night, continuing till the sun getswell up next morning. The people say that the rain has given over inSoudan. The season is, therefore, later here. The rain, if I may use theexpression, would seem now to travel north; it has, however, began up inthe higher regions surrounding Constantine. When I was there, I believein August 1846, it had already set in; and now it will soon begin inTripoli. At nine A. M. We begin to dry our clothes, and we get prettywell dried and aired by the time the rain begins again in the afternoon. 

The day before yesterday a woman died in Tintalous, and was carried tothe grave solely by women. This was considered an extraordinary thing bythe Moors of the coast, but I see nothing extraordinary in thecircumstance. The fact is, the Moors think the men ought to doeverything except bear children and perform the drudgery of thehousehold. 

We have little communication with the town, the rain cutting us off fromit and its inhabitants. A flood of water pours down the valley everyevening, after which the ground continues all night and all next day ina state of wet mud. 

_9th. _--I rose without receiving any good news. On the contrary, Mr. Sfaxee, who has always professed such disinterestedness, begins to hintdemands. I find that I shall have to pay him as much as the otherpeople. Escort En-Noor, by the way, was delighted with the littlepresent I made to him of a pair of coloured scissors for his wife. Thethermometer a little after mid-day rose to 94° Fahr. And 27° 30' ofRéaum. In the afternoon the rain only threatened, and we had but two orthree puffs of wind. 

We hear that the Sultan is better; and from his servants we collect thathe is not willing we should go on to Zinder unless escorted by himself. Certainly this arrangement would please us under ordinary circumstances;but we hear that it would detain us two or three months in Aheer, whichwill never do. To-day I made acquaintance with the round salt-cakes ofBilma. They consist of a very rough species of salt, like so many biground grains of the coarsest sandstone. One that I saw was of a darkbrown colour, extremely dirty, about half-a-foot in diameter. Apparentlythese lumps are very compact; they serve as money both in Soudan andTintalous. The greater part of the revenue of Aheer is derived from thissalt carrying between Bilma and Zinder. 

_10th. _--This morning I felt much better, as well as I have ever donesince leaving Tripoli. One adapts one's self to any climate by degrees. I took courage even to read a little, and went over Jackson's "What toObserve, " among other things. But my mind is still troubled about ourfuture course of proceeding. It is impossible to bring Sultan En-Noor toany arrangement. He still shelters himself from our importunities underthe plea of ill health. Almost every morning we have a few visitors fromthe town. The people are not troublesome, except that they show a gooddeal of prying curiosity to see the faces, forms, and actions ofChristians. We learn that scouts are still out after our camels, hitherto without success. I am afraid they have been driven far away;and begin to doubt our ever setting eyes on them again. 

The morning was clear and dry, with a little cool wind breathing up thevalley. The country was covered with fresh herbage; trees were buddingand birds singing, as in spring. Yesterday evening we had a visit from awolf, who was looking out for our two or three sheep for a supper, butthe watch was too well kept. There are many wild animals in Aheer, butwe have hitherto seen but few. Very pretty doves fly about our tent; andDr. Overweg shot some small birds to send home. 

Aheer, in general, must be considered as a part of the Southern Sahara, or Great Desert. Any country not producing periodic crops of grain, either by the annual rains or by irrigation, comes under thisdenomination here. Aheer answers the description perfectly, althoughthere are some exceptions. Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have annual cropsof grain produced by irrigation. 

I have obtained a list, such as it is, of the towns and villagessurrounding Tintalous. Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda are not mentioned, asthey lay in our route to this place. My informant declined to give anyaccount of the numbers of the population, in all cases. [15]

 [15] He may have refused from superstitious motives. Muslims are peculiarly sensitive on this subject. In Egypt, Mohammed Ali encountered considerable passive resistance in his endeavours to procure a census. --ED. 

From Tintalous, as radii, are spread around the towns and villagesof--Asărá, two hours west; Asărărá, a place near Asoudee;Ghăloulaf, four hours south; Asoudee, six hours south-south-west;Tănousămăt, two hours west (forty people); Aghŏŏōu, two hours north (country of Escort En-Noor); Tănāsămā, fourhours east (one family); Aghădéz, six days south-west; Baghzem, twodays south; Aghălăgh, a few hours further south (fifty people);Bindăée, one hour and a-half east (no people); Teelaou, four hourseast; Tegheda, a walk for shepherds, three hours west; Asoudărăka, five hours south (forty or fifty); Terken, seven hours west (not known);Timeĕă, four hours west (fifty, and many dates); Doumous, one daywest; Agharghar, two days west; Oudăras, two days south-south-west(place for shepherds); Abasas, two days south (a place for shepherds);Tabernee (a well), two days south; Shouwărēkĕdē, orTouwerkedad (on the side of Tabernee), one day south; Maree, one daysouth (place for shepherds); Arăsāmadăn, by the side of Maree, south (well); Shintaghalee, in Wady Tentaghemea, near the above, south;Azanwazghĕr, near the above, south; Zanairas, [16] two daysnorth-east. 

 [16] Zanairas is the native place of Ferajee and Deedee, where Lousou exercises authority. This list is still very imperfect. It is difficult to find a man who will give correct and full information. As will be seen, my informant gave me wadys and sheep-walks for towns, in many cases. [At the end of the volume will be found more complete information on the positions of places in Aheer, subsequently obtained by Mr. Richardson. --ED. ]

It would have been very interesting to collect authentic information asto the population of many places in Aheer. I suspect the number ofinhabitants is very small indeed. I had already been powerfullyimpressed with the paucity of the population of the districts of Ghât, the desert region occupied by the Azgher, and had been led to computethat they cannot contain in all more than a couple of thousand people. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Zinder Caravan--Negress playing "Boree"--Curious Scene--Objectsof Barter--Fresh Annoyances--Remarks on our Reception inAheer--En-Noor--Asoudee--Better News--Fresh Extortions--En-Noordisappoints us--Europeans taken for Spies--Things in demand atAheer--Exercise--Overweg's Patients--Wild Animals in Aheer--Kailouees indry Weather--Robbing a Prince--Ghaseb and Ghafouley--AheerCheese--Mokhlah Bou Yeldee--Our Wealth noised abroad--Alarm at Night--Afresh Attack--Saïd's Gallantry--Disorderly Protectors--ThirteenRobbers--Amankee--Loss of my Tea--Country of Thieves. 

_10th Sept. Continued. _--Yusuf has been to the town, but has come backwithout any authentic news of the departure of the caravans for Zinder. He says, however, that En-Noor is better; and that it is reported thatthe first caravan will go in fifteen or twenty days, and the second andlargest, with which En-Noor himself talks of setting out, about twentydays afterwards. 

I was disturbed this evening from my repose on the dry sand under thepale moonlight by the most unearthly noises, coming from a group of ourblack servants. On getting up to see what it was, I found that one ofour negresses, a wife of one of the servants, was performing _Boree_, the "Devil, " and working herself up into the belief that his Satanicmajesty had possession of her. She threw herself upon the ground in alldirections, and imitated the cries of various animals. Her actions were, however, somewhat regulated by a man tapping upon a kettle with a pieceof wood, beating time to her wild manoeuvres. After some delay, believing herself now possessed, and capable of performing her work, shewent forward to half-a-dozen, of our servants, who were squatting down, on their hams, ready to receive her. She then took each by the head andneck, and pressed their heads between her legs--they sitting, shestanding--not in the most decent way, and made over them, with her wholebody, certain inelegant motions, not to be mentioned. She then put theirhands and arms behind their backs, and after several other wild criesand jumps, and having for a moment thrown herself flat upon the ground, she declared to each and all _their future_--their fortune, good or bad. I did not stop to see the result of the ceremony. The slaves carry thesemysteries with them in their servitude, and the practice of suchindecent and profane things tolerated by the Muslims of the coast. TheMoors and Arabs, indeed, have great faith in these mysteries, and resortto them to know _their future_. 

I made this day a list of objects of barter:--A looking-glass in a tincase, value, in Tripoli, thirty paras, purchases here two sahs ofghaseb. A common print handkerchief, value fourpence English money, onlypurchases three or four sahs of ghaseb. 

Eight drâa of fine white calico are equal to one metagal; three of whichmetagals is a large dollar. (This does not sell at much advantage. )

I this day finished my dispatch, dated from Esalan, respecting thedisputes and disagreements I had with the Tuaricks of Ghât; but sincethen these Haghars have, indeed, appeared very moderate people to us. 

Thermometer at half-past twelve P. M. , under tent, 92° Fahr. 

Instead of much rain, we have had a squall of wind this afternoon, attended by a slight shower. 

In the afternoon, Yusuf came, with a menacing tone, from En-Noor, saying, we must pay ten metagals (of this country) for finding each ofthe lost camels; or if not, this sum would be taken from us by force. Yusuf added, also, that En-Noor was dissatisfied with his present; thatthe Sultan had remarked to him, --"It was a present for servants, and hehad given it all away to the people. " Moreover, that yesterday cameseveral persons, marabouts, from Tintaghoda, who mentioned theirdispleasure to En-Noor because they had not yet received anything. 

I was just rejoicing at the finding of three lost camels; but it seemswe are not to have a moment of repose or enjoyment in Aheer. It may be, hereafter, "sweet to remember these things, " but it is now a sad trialof patience to bear them. I abused En-Noor and our servants in turn. Asto the forty metagals, there was not a question ventured about that; butthe present of En-Noor was the largest we had ever made, and it wouldhave been better to have brought with us letters of recommendation forrobbers than such people. All this comes after it had been noised abroadthrough the whole village that En-Noor was greatly rejoiced at thepresent, and all the people were happy and content. Such, however, isthe dependence to be placed on reports in the African kingdom of Aheer!However, I am determined to give way to no more vain fears, but topreserve as much as possible of the property of Government. I am sorryto say that I receive no assistance in my efforts to save the money withwhich I have been entrusted. 

I am now writing to Mr. Gagliuffi on the subject of the great losses andshameless extortion to which we were subjected on our arrival in thiscountry. In reviewing the whole affair, setting apart the personaldevotion exhibited towards myself, I have no cause to be pleased withour escort and servants. They gave way too easily to fear, and, seem tohave been too willing to allow us to buy ourselves off. I have omittedto mention that they wished us to write a document, to the effect thatif we came to harm it was not through their fault! This singular ideawas, of course, rejected. I must observe, that not only we, but all ourcaravan, were prodigiously disappointed by the reception we met with. The Haghars were expected to be troublesome, and their alleged pursuitof us was sufficiently probable; but no one admitted that there was anydanger from the people of Aheer. On the contrary, all professed delightat the prospect of entering the inhabited districts, where it wasthought and boldly proclaimed we should all have the most cordialwelcome. Yet the Haghars did not come, and the borderers of Aheertreated us as badly as the wildest Tuaricks could have done, behavinglike veritable brigands. I entertain some faint hopes of obtainingredress; but have been so often deceived, that I shall say nothing forthe present on the subject. 

_Friday, 13th Sept. _--I rose early; a fine morning. Thermometer at aquarter to seven P. M. Under tent, 78°. We had a visit early from theson-in-law of En-Noor and his two friends, who had found the camels. They were extremely polite, and much pleased when I sent them to theSfaxee to receive forty metagals for the recovery of the four lostcamels (one is not yet come up). Then I had a visit from one of theslaves of En-Noor's brother. This man gave a good account of En-Noor, and said he would certainly go with us. He observed, also, respectingthe Sultan's authority, "En-Noor governs everywhere--all Aheer, and evenDamerghou and Zinder. " This must be taken to signify, En-Noor has greatinfluence in all these countries. 

Asoudee is said by some to be a city, walled, and of considerableextent, with many people; others represent it as being in ruins. I thinkits ruins are mentioned in my Ghadamez itinerary. Unlike Tintalous, agreat quantity of provisions is stored up in that place. 

Yusuf and the Sfaxee came this morning from En-Noor, and brought moretranquillising news; but we have been obliged to give ten douros eachfor finding the lost camels--almost as much as my white maharee isworth. However, I remained in tolerably good spirits all day, cheered bythe favourable account given me of the Sultan. But woe to the man whohugs himself in a feeling of security in Aheer!

Late in the evening Yusuf and the Sfaxee came from En-Noor with a mostthreatening message. The Sheikh says, in substance, that "Everybodywishes to attack us, and take away our property. To protect us, therefore, and conduct us to Zinder, he must have, at least, sevenhundred dollars. " At first he demanded one thousand, and then came downto seven hundred. Such is the man to whom we are recommended as a friendand protector. None of the robbers have yet taken so large a sum, sothat this is the greatest, grandest of the brigands! I went to beddisquieted by the enormity of En-Noor's demands. 

_14th. _--As may be imagined, I passed an unquiet night, disturbed by themost gloomy forebodings. It now appeared to me that all the amenity ofthe Sultan had been assumed, in order that he might first get all hecould out of us by gentle means, previous to resorting to threats andbullying. As to resistance, it is, of course, impossible, if imperativedemands be made. In the morning En-Noor sent a message, to the effectthat he could not see us unless we had made up our minds to give him theseven hundred dollars. He is getting more and more bold and impertinent. I deputed Mahommed Tunisee and the Sfaxee to him as negotiators. Theyare to offer a present of five hundred dollars; that is to say, threehundred for the escort to Zinder, and the remaining two hundred afterthe signing of the treaty. With some difficulty the matter was for thepresent arranged, by the sacrifice of another hundred dollars as apresent to the courtiers of the great man, in order that they mightinduce him to be so kind as to accept of the remaining five hundred! Myagents were greatly assisted by the Wakeel of Makersee of Mourzuk. Iconsented to the arrangement on En-Noor's writing a letter to herMajesty's Government, promising protection to British travellers for thefuture; and thus ended this new, and I may say, flagrant series ofexactions. Possibly, had I been alone, I might have been able to holdout longer and more successfully; but it is somewhat embarrassing to actwith persons who share in your councils without sharing in yourresponsibility, and who naturally seek the shortest and easiest methodof getting over all difficulties. The conclusion of the arrangement hada tranquillising effect upon our encampment, especially on my worthyGerman colleagues. 

The people have complained to En-Noor that we are "writing the country. "This is an old complaint, and pervades all Northern Africa and theDesert, "that the Christians come first to write a country, andafterwards invade or capture it. " Travellers, therefore, especially whenthey venture to use the pen in public, are looked upon as spies, whichmay in part account for the rough treatment they sometimes receive. 

Every place has certain things especially in demand. Here nothing goesdown but white calico and very small looking-glasses, which shut up inboxes. With these we purchase the greater part of our provisions. Thereis a little cotton-money about. Our encampment sometimes resembles amarket. The people are curious to observe every action which differsfrom theirs. When I promenade a little for exercise, they immediatelyturn their eyes upon me with astonishment, and some come to ask what Ido that for. I reply by signs, [17] feeling my legs and stretching them. This proves satisfactory, for the Kailouees are apparently an activepeople, at least in this season; but they moved about little while therain lasted, and in the middle of the day they rarely visit us--alwaysin the morning and in the afternoon. Dr. Overweg has got some patients;but people generally seem to enjoy very good health in this place. Wehave now a great deal of wind instead of rain: it always blows hard inthe latter part of the day. I find this weather very bracing, though thethermometer at nine P. M. Sometimes stands at 83°. The rainy season maybe considered nearly at an end. 

 [17] It is astonishing how few of the Kailouees speak Arabic. The few terms and expressions they are acquainted with are only those of commerce. 

The valleys and rocks of Aheer abound with several kinds of wildanimals, both the inoffensive and the ferocious; viz. The gazelle, thewadan, the wild ox, the ostrich, the wild boar, the jackal, the wolf, the hyæna, and the lion. Numerous birds haunt the trees. Amongst otherswe noticed a very beautiful species of dove, with a very distinct blackring round its neck; the hippoo; the wood-pecker; linnets; and over usflew the little black-and-white bird with the long feathers in its tail. 

_15th. _--We had a fine morning; the wind has quite dried our encampment. There will be little more wet weather, they tell us; and the rain hassome time quite ceased in Soudan. This is fortunate, as already severalof our things have been spoiled. The Kailouees are taking advantage ofthe dry weather, and may be seen riding about in all directions. Themembers of the great families, like our European aristocrats, seem tohave no other occupation. God has created the earth for this class togallop about over. It was very warm and fine all day; thermometer atnoon, in tent, 95° Fahr. : there was little wind. 

The secret of En-Noor's authority is this: in all his great gains, andlucky enterprises, and pieces of good fortune--as our arrival here hasproved--he gives his principal people and courtiers a share of theprofit or the spoil; and when nothing particular is going on, he feedsthem from the granary of his house, or clothes them from his heaped-upmerchandise. All this, however does not save the prince from beingoccasionally robbed--if we are to believe report, which says that theother evening some black cotton turbans were taken from his house. Thenews from the town is, that En-Noor and his courtiers have received theamount of their extortion in goods. We have now given at Tintalous tothe value of nearly a thousand dollars, and yet we have not received thesmallest present in return--not a supper the day of our arrival, not alittle butter or fruit; nothing, absolutely nothing!

Our servants have nearly procured all the ghaseb which they require forthe journey from this to Zinder, viz. One hundred sahs. This they havepurchased with various little wares, principally knives andlooking-glasses. The ghaseb is always mixed with ghafouley, a species ofgrain about a third the size of a small pea. Ghafouley is called _koula_in Soudanese. The Aheer cheese has appeared for the first time amongstus to-day. It is made in little squares, three by two inches broad, anda quarter of an inch thick. It is eaten fresh, but has a poor flavour. The people prefer pounding it into dust when dry, and drinking it withghaseb-water, which is white as milk, and very cool. The paste thus madeis very white, and becomes as hard as a stone when dry. I have also madeacquaintance with _doua doua_, round black balls of a vegetablecomposition, eaten with various dishes as seasoning. It is very abundantin Soudan. There is also a species of ghaseb-paste, called_dābóă_, not unlike macaroni in very small pieces. This is verymuch esteemed. It swells exceedingly when boiled, like paste. We beginto get into regions where the preparation of food is greatly changing. Yesterday my servants purchased me a fowl, and I learned for the firsttime that this delicacy was to be procured. 

I have studied but little since I left Tripoli. Our affairs have alwaysbeen worse and worse, and we have had a continual battle to preserve ourexistence. Such is the beginning of this expedition: God only knows whatmay be its _end_. There is left for us but a firm reliance in Hisgoodness and protecting providence. 

_16th. _--This was a warm, hazy day, and we were troubled withconsiderable languor. I have slept but little these three nights, andfeel somewhat indisposed for want of rest. I read a good deal ofClapperton's "Journey to Sakkatou, " besides beginning a vocabulary ofthe Kailouee language, with the assistance of Mokhlah Bou Yeldee, who isa very clever young man. He gets his living by writing charms, and sellsa good number for the cure of disease. People pour water on the ink orwriting of the charm, and then drink the magic liquid. The remedy isdoubtless as effectual as many patent medicines in Europe. As is wellknown, this superstition of drinking the Koran is of old date. 

En-Noor sent a message this morning by the slave of Makersee, that wewere not to say a single word to any one, not even to our servants, about the money, or its amount, which we have paid him for our escort toZinder. He says, "If the people hear of this money, they will all comedown upon me for a portion; and if I do not comply with their wishesthey will abandon us, and not go with us to Zinder, and I want as manyof them to go with me as possible. "

Our wealth is still noised abroad! The people believe all our boxes tobe full of gold and silver. Even En-Noor sought for secret informationrespecting the amount of dollars which he supposed to be concealedamongst our baggage. 

I was again restless when night came on, and was still awake when themoon was near setting, about three A. M. , under tent, at which timesuddenly I heard the wife of Saïd begin to squall, with the sound of thetrampling of feet around my tent. I conjectured immediately what was up, "Another attack!" I repeated mechanically to myself, and getting up, began to dress myself. At first I thought our assailants were at somedistance off, but when the boxes began to be drawn from around my tent Iexclaimed, "Oh, oh, they are upon me, and are carrying off the things. "Still I had become so accustomed to these attacks, or attempted attacks, by night and by day, that I felt quite indifferent, and began to dressmyself as if nothing was the matter, or simply as if some one had calledme up suddenly to breakfast, or that we were to start off early on ourway. 

I found my clothes, however, with some difficulty, and tore them alittle in putting them on. At last I went out. All our people were up, as well as the Germans. On inquiring the news, I learned that a band ofrobbers had attacked us; from six to ten had been counted. My servantshad all decamped, with the exception of Saïd. Some of them had beenstruck by the robbers, and others had been threatened, and had ran away. My servant Saïd, as soon as he sallied out and saw what was going on, seized his matchlock, and pointed it at the assailants, especially thosewho were removing the saharees (large square boxes). Upon this theybegan to quake, and, parleying with Saïd, begged for mercy, and saidthey would go immediately if the powder was not used against them. Saïdtook them at their word, and they ran off. They had already, however, carried away about nine pounds of tea, packed in tin boxes. It isprobable they mistook these boxes of tin for silver, or considered theircontents to be money, gold and silver, although their lightness shouldhave undeceived them. As the Arabic Bibles and Testaments were packed upwith the tea, they carried off a Bible with them. But this theyafterwards dropped on the road, and it was picked up by a shepherdess, and brought to me. They also took away a pewter dish and two bags ofgrounded ghaseb, besides ripping open the bags of the blacks. Thisappears to be the amount of the robbery and devastation; very fortunateare we it was not worse. We had watched many nights, and had oftenloaded our guns; but this night, when the thieves came, we weremiserably unprepared to receive them. The Germans had been cleaningtheir guns, and all were unloaded. Overweg had his fowling-piece chargedwith small shot. At length we got two or three guns in trim, and ourservants followed the robbers, but nothing of them was to be seen. Thecowards had fled at the first show of resistance. In the morning, onsearching through the small valley up which they had come, we weresurprised to find marks of no less than thirteen camels--enough to carryaway all our goods. So that it is probable there were some thirteenrobbers, a part of whom remained with the camels whilst the othersattacked us. Amankee, on being knocked down with a shield, got up again, and ran off to the town, giving the alarm everywhere. 

En-Noor, as soon as the news of this aggression reached him, sent off a_posse_ of people, and then called in the inhabitants of a neighbouringvillage; so that, when all was over, our encampment was surrounded by adisorderly multitude of protectors till day-light. 

To my tent came the confidential servant of En-Noor, and everybody wastalking, drinking coffee, and making merry. After all, it was well tohave these people, for if the thirteen robbers had shown ordinarycourage, in our unprepared state we should have had a good deal of workto do, and might some of us have got bad sword-cuts or spear-thrusts. 

En-Noor, they say, is exceedingly angry about this attack, and has senteleven mounted men after the robbers to seize their camels, which if hegets hold of he intends to confiscate. On Amankee calling on him heobserved, "You, Amankee, being a native of Soudan, and not a Muslim ofTripoli, are like the Kailouees. You can fire on these Kailouee robbers. Get your gun loaded, ready for any other occasion. "

At daylight, after lecturing my servants for not giving the alarm(for, with the exception of Saïd's wife, they were all soterror-stricken--literally struck dumb with terror--that they could notspeak, much-less cry out), I sent Amankee off at the heels of therobbers. In all such emergencies I have found no one like Amankee; he isa complete bloodhound, and can scent his way through all the desert, andfollow the steps of the most agile and quick-witted fugitive. I knewAmankee would pick up some of the tea and bring news of the robbers. Hereturned, and fulfilled my expectations: he picked up about six ouncesof tea scattered on the road, and brought the news that the robbers werefrom Tidek and Taghajeet. They had come some days' journey to plunderus. I learned, also, that the rascals, just before they attacked us, hadbeen feasting at a wedding in Tintalous. 

I grieved very much for the loss of my tea, and employed six or sevenhours in picking the stones out of what Amankee recovered. I had greatlycoveted this luxury, and set my heart upon it; and now my idol wasruthlessly torn from me by a band of robbers! Amankee, knowing myfeelings, had offered a reward for the rest, telling the people he sawon the road that the tea could only be drank by Christians, and waspoison for Muslims! This fib drew from the astonished Kailouees a wofulejaculation--"Allah! Allah!" Many funny scenes were enacted during thefew minutes of the attack of the robbers. The other negress, a wife ofanother of the servants, was quite dumb; but Saïd's wife crept aroundthe tent like a dog, on her hands and feet, giving the alarm, butfearing to rise up lest she should be felled down by the robbers. Theservants of the Germans hearing the squalling thought it was Saïd"beating his wife"--a thing common in these countries. Dr. Barth heardall sorts of noises, but imagined they were all from the celebration ofthe wedding. It is always well to examine suspicious circumstances. Astrange camel had been seen straying at sunset near our tent, whichexcited the suspicions of myself and Dr. Barth. If we had obeyed ourpresentiments, we might have discovered the intended attack, or, atleast, have made some preparations. 

A few robbers have often visited us before this. When I had an interviewwith En-Noor I asked for a couple of guards, but he refused them, on theplea that they were unnecessary. Although he knew well the country isnow full of thieves, and told us so, he never expected this audaciousattack of thirteen maharees! Soudan abounds with thieves, and we mustnow always keep watch. May we, however, in our further progress, havenothing more to fear than petty larceny; and we shall have reason indeedto be thankful!

CHAPTER XVIII. 

We shift our Encampment--En-Noor's Circular--The Kadi's Decision--NoProgress in the Sahara--Aghadez Gumruk--Scorpions--Election of Sultansin Aheer--Present of Salutation--Paying for finding lostProperty--Courier from the new Sultan--No Presents sent us--Notes onDenham--A Bornouese Measure--Intended Razzia--Firing offGunpowder--Hypotheses of Danger--Dress and Women--Enroute toBilma--Soudan Caravan--Visit from Tintaghoda--Aheer Honey--Modes ofMeasurement--Power of En-Noor--Visits to him from great People--Stationson the Bilma Road--Salt-Trade--Account of our Pursuers atTajetterat--Costume of the Kailouees--Their Weapons--PoisonedArrows--Charms--Female Dress--Names of Articles of Costume--Character ofKailouees. 

_Sept. 17th. _--In the morning En-Noor sent a message that we mustimmediately move from our present encampment on our sand-hills, aquarter of a mile from the town, where we had a pleasant view ofeverything in the valley and around, and come near the people. So in thecourse of the day we pitched tents close by the houses of the town. Wefound that we were not so much molested by the inhabitants (i. E. Bytheir curiosity) as we expected. 

I had heard in the previous evening that En-Noor, two or three days ago, had written, by means of one of the learned men of this place, to allthe towns and villages around him, begging the Sheikhs and people not tooffer us any molestation whilst we were residing here, under hisimmediate protection, as his guests, and as sacred persons recommendedto his care. This shows good-will in the venerable Sultan. He sent to usthis morning the result of the Kadi's decision, respecting the robbers. This singular question was put to the Kadi, "Whether it was lawful torob and murder the Christians by night?" Answer, "No; on the contrary, the Christians may fire on and kill the Muslim robbers. " The Sultan, itappears, attaches great importance to this decision, and counts on it toobtain the suffrages of all his people in our favour. 

Such are the circumstances attending the first visit of Christians toAheer! I believe this attack will do our servants good. They see now, that, by a little resistance, the most audacious of thieves will be putto flight. We ourselves shall also keep better watch for the future. 

_18th. _--I finished to-day a vocabulary of the Kailouee language. Iendeavour also to divert my mind from the many causes of annoyance thatnow exist, by studying the records of the Denham and Clappertonexpedition. We shall soon be amidst the same countries that theyexplored, and, no doubt, shall find that little has changed in themanners of the people during these last thirty years. Neither in theDesert nor in the kingdoms of Central Africa is there any march ofcivilisation. All goes on according to a certain routine established forages past. 

A courier has just arrived from the new Sultan of Aghadez, demanding thegumruk, or custom-dues, from the caravan of Christians who have enteredAheer. As if we had not already paid enough! After two or three weeks ofincessant solicitation, by the way, I gave Es-Sfaxee, Yusuf, andMahommed, a small bottle of rum--the first, and it shall be the last;for they got drunk and quarrelsome upon it. 

_19th. _--This day I took a walk over the neighbouring rocks, whencethere is a wide view over the whole surrounding valley. I have omittedto observe, that at our former place of encampment were seen manyscorpions; so that here these reptiles inhabit the open country equallywith the ruins of old houses or mosques, and such places. Under one ofmy boxes was also discovered a lêfa, the most dangerous species ofserpent in these countries. 

It appears that most of the caravans that pass through this country areobliged to pay a certain gumruk to the prince of Aghadez. The relationsof the lesser Sheikhs of Aheer with the paramount sultan are of thiskind. When a sultan dies, or is displaced, they assemble like theCollege of Cardinals, or rather like the old Polish nobility, to elect anew one. It is the law that this Sultan of Aghadez must be a stranger. When once chosen he is invested with something like absolute authoritythroughout all Aheer, and he alone possesses the dreaded power of"cutting off heads. " En Noor has sent this morning what is called "thepresent, of salutation, " which he determined to despatch toAbd-el-Kader, the new Sultan of Aghadez, instead of the immense gumrukdemanded. The present consists of one Egyptian mattrass; two whiteturbans with red borders; a piece of white muslin for making lightturbans; two shasheeahs, or red caps; two small gilt-framedlooking-glasses; and a few beads of glass and earthen composition; onepound of _jouee_, or perfume for burning; a small packet of _simbel_, anaromatic herb used for washing the body; and two heads of white sugar. This composed what may be called the official present for the districtof Tintalous. En-Noor added, from himself, two camels, a piece of silkfor a gown, and various other little things. 

Whilst these magnificences are going on, we are enjoying the comfortablereflection that all our losses are gains to other people, whether theybe friends or enemies. 

I had as much trouble to satisfy the parties who found the Arabic Bibleas if I was purchasing their own property, and not rewarding them foraccidentally finding some of my lost goods. Finally, however, I arrangedto give them two cotton-printed handkerchiefs and a small quantity ofspices. This was more than enough. These rewards for finding our lostproperty naturally impels our friendly people, either to rob usthemselves or to wish that others may rob us, that they may havesomething to gain by attempting to recover our lost things. What we hadto pay for the recovery of each of our camels was almost as much as someof them were worth. 

The weather has been dry and hot for the last few days; at noon thethermometer rose to 100° under the tent. Suddenly it became cloudy, anda few drops of rain began to patter down. There was every appearance ofa storm, and our people began to collect towards the tents. At this timeanother courier arrived from the new Sultan, Abd-el-Kader, of Aghadez, respecting us. His highness says:--"No one shall hurt the Christians: noone shall lift up a finger against them; and if they wish to come to mycity, I shall be very happy to receive them. " This courier arrived soquickly after the other, that I suspect his highness may be spelling fora large present; or he may have just heard of the bad treatment we havereceived, and being a new man has determined to afford us somereparation. Little reliance, however, can be placed on theseprofessions, until we know something more of the character ofAbd-el-Kader. It is certainly a great disappointment for us that we donot go to Aghadez. I am afraid that this will be the case with manyother important cities. 

The Es-Sfaxee wished to have a feast to celebrate the arrival of thisgood news, but I cannot join in such a demonstration. We have littlecause for rejoicing at the conduct of the people of Aheer. En-Noor hasnot yet sent us a sah of ghaseb; or a drop of samen or a sheep's head. Never did travellers visit a country in Africa, without receiving somemark of hospitality of this kind from the chief or sovereign of theplace. 

In the evening a fellow came and asked us if we could sell him a veneese(a dressing-gown) in exchange for ghaseb. After some trouble we fixedthe bargain. Saïd was fool enough to give him the veneese before hebrought the merchandise, the fellow promising to bring it the nextmorning. During the night he fled with his booty on the road to Aghadez. Amankee went in pursuit of the fugitive, seized him on the road, andbrought back the veneese: for such matters there is no one equal toAmankee. 

_20th. _--Denham compares the berries of the _suak_ (suag) tocranberries. _Zumeeta_ is called parched corn; it should be parchedground corn. Gafouley is called guinea-corn. The green herb with which_bazeen_ is generally seasoned is called _melocheea_ (ochra). There are, however, various herbs for this seasoning, though all of them have asimilar flavour. I confess, myself, I do not much like the flavour; itis, like that of olives, an acquired taste. Bazeen may be calledflour-pudding. 

Gubga is a Bornouese measure, eight drâas (or lengths of the lower partof the arm, from the elbow to the tips of the fingers) in length and oneinch and a half broad. Denham, who spells it gubka, says it is about oneEnglish yard. The eight drâas would be, however, nearly three yards. This measure is applied to white, coarse, native-woven cotton, and apiece of cotton eight drâas long and one inch and half broad is a gubga. This is the money of Bornou; it must be a most inconvenient currency, but habit accustoms us to everything. 

It is reported in town, that En-Noor intends shortly to make a razzia onthe towns where we were plundered: he says, perhaps justly, "The tribeshave '_tasted_' fine burnouses, more especially their sheikhs; andemboldened by their success, and the attractiveness of the richvestments, they will now plunder all the caravans. " This is anotherreason why strong representations should be made to the Pasha of Mourzukto grant us redress. En-Noor can seize camels and sequester them; he canalso seize men: but he must afterwards send them to Aghadez for trial. This razzia, however, will not come off yet. 

A storm of wind, with at little rain as usual, visited us in theafternoon. It then cleared up, and was fine all the evening. 

The Es-Sfaxee, heading our servants, was determined to fire away alittle gunpowder this evening though much against my inclination. Afterthey had been firing near the tents, En-Noor sent for them to fire atthe doors of his house. The old Sheikh is now waxing mighty civil, andswears that we are his _walad_ (children). We shall see what we shallsee. Yusuf even thinks he can be persuaded to sign the treaty. All theKailouees are very fond of powder, and also very much alarmed at it. They say they could themselves make plenty of powder if saltpetre werefound them. 

_21st. _--It appears that some of the districts of Damerghou are includedwithin the circle of Aheer, and that the Kailouees exercise authoritythere. En-Noor has a house there. 

Overweg's three hypotheses of danger south of Bornou are:--

1. To be stripped of everything by robbers, and left naked in thewilderness. 

2. To be devoured by wild beasts. 

3. To be forced to traverse a desert where there is no subsistence forman or beast. Indeed, after the experience we have had up this road, although a Tuarick road (and Tuaricks are not supposed to have apeculiar antipathy to Christians), it will be next to suicide to proceedfar south without adequate guides and protection. 

The two predominant passions of men in all these Tuarick countries, especially Aheer, are for dress and women. A few only are tainted byfanaticism, and fewer still are misers; because, probably they havenothing to save. Of the character of the women I cannot speak, for wantof experience; the few we have met with have begged mostly for trinkets, and looking-glasses, but we have seen little of the love of intrigue. 

About Aheer, the Bornou and Soudan routes appear not to be far apart. The Tibboos make Kisbee to be only eight days from Aghadez. TheKailouees also state that Bilma (or _Boulouma_, in their pronunciation)is only seven or eight days of good travelling from Tintalous; but thesalt-caravans always employ fourteen days, arriving at Bilma on thefifteenth. 

Yesterday afternoon a portion of a large Soudan caravan arrived. Anumber of bullocks were amongst its beasts of burden; one of these hadimmense branching horns, and, according to the report of Saïd's wife, was of the same species as those found in her country, Kanemboo, nearBornou. These bullocks seemed to be in every respect trained likehorses, and some of them carry a burden of four cantars. 

_22d. _--I rose early, to prepare my despatches for Mourzuk and England. To-day not much wind, only a little refreshing breeze. The wind, whichappears to visit us daily instead of the rain, generally begins about anhour after noon, and continues to blow in fitful gusts until three orfour P. M. When it gradually sinks. The evenings are perfectly calm, though not always cloudless. 

Yesterday five maharees arrived from Tintaghoda, mounted by persons whocame to inquire after the health of En-Noor. They left early thismorning. Somehow or other these maharees always look suspicious to me. The injuries we have received make us suspicious. 

I ate some honey of Aheer to-day. It has a most treacley taste, and, intruth, is not unlike treacle, not having the delicate flavour of honey. It has purgative qualities. They boil it on the fire, and so spoil it. 

I wrote to-day to Viscount Palmerston, to Mr. Gagliuffi, and my wife, sending also specimens of the Kailouee language, and the journal ofYusuf, describing the route from Ghât to Aheer--altogether a goodparcel. 

The Arabs and Moors try to measure everything by portions of their body. The drâa, a measure from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, is inuniversal requisition. The fathom, signified by the arms extended onboth sides the body, is not so frequently in use. The sun is often saidto be so many fathoms high. If we attended a little more to thesenatural measures it might be well, although the human body being sovarious in size we could never be correct, and then we might lose sightof those artificial means of measuring objects which distinguish us fromthe semi-barbarian Arabs. 

This evening I heard from Es-Sfaxee a more favourable account of thepower of En-Noor. It would appear that En-Noor is the aged Sheikh, theSheikh Kebeer, of the Kailouees, whom all respect, and to whom all lookup in cases of difficulty and distress. With En-Noor always authorityremains, whilst all the other Sheikhs are being changed--some everyyear. En-Noor, nevertheless, appears to be a great miser, continuallyamassing wealth in money, merchandise, or camels. He is also reported tohave four hundred horses in Damerghou, a district of which is subjectedto him. 

At the present time he is constantly receiving visits from thesurrounding Kubar, "great people, " inquiring after his health, andbringing presents. Whilst he thus amasses treasure, he feeds a number ofdependants a little above the starvation point; and this standing armysuffices for his executive. Several of the princes of Aheer are expectedto visit the new Sultan of Aghadez, and compliment him on his accession. The exact name of the new Sultan is now said to be Kadaree BenEl-Bagharee. 

_23d. _--I rose early, to send off the despatches. They are sent toAsoudee, where there is a caravan just arrived from Kanou. Among thepersons composing it are some Mourzuk people, who will take charge ofthe despatches. This caravan stays a few days in Asoudee, when it willleave direct for Mourzuk, and arrive at this latter city in the courseof two months and a-half. 

I have just received an account of the route of the salt-caravans fromTintalous to Bilma:--

From Tintalous to Asaughar Five days. " Fakramah One day. " Kāwār One day. " Boulouma One day. 

The mediate time occupied is said to be between eight and fourteen days. The three stations mentioned between Tintalous and Bilma have wells ofwater. There is also an abundance of herbage all along the route forcamels. The direction of the route is always east, over a flat country(probably through wadys); although, my informant adds, there are nomountains. The salt is found in small lakes. The people amass it withthe water, and make of it round cakes; the water runs away, and thecakes become hard and dry. It is then packed up in camel-loads. A largecamel-load pays to the Tibboos half a metagal, or about ninepenceEnglish money. It is thus evident that the Tibboos do derive a revenuefrom their salt, contrary to what was stated by them to Major Denham. Since his time, however, this people have found themselves in a bettercondition to enforce this impost on the Kailouee salt-merchants thanthey were formerly. 

The caravan of Ghât Tuaricks brought here the news, a few days ago, thatno less than four hundred people, fractions of the tribes of the Azgher, consisting of men, women, and children, followed us as far as Tajetteratto see what they could get from the Christians. When they arrived at thewells, to their great disappointment we were gone. Some of them werenearly naked, having only a piece of leather round their loins. Oursending for an escort from Mourzuk seems to have aroused the wholecountry; all these poor wretches expected, at least, a little _hamsa_from the Christians, who were reported to have a long train of camelsladen with gold and silver, and all sorts of rich goods. I do not doubtthe correctness of this news; it is so perfectly Targhee in its kind:but the report of sixty maharees pursuing us from the Haghar desert wasalways doubted by me. 

There is now news of my stolen tea, and a chance of my getting some ofit back again, the robbers confessing to their friends that they do notknow what to do with such "_herbage_, " as they call it: it is quiteuseless to them. 

The Kailouees and Tuaricks generally do not like beards, and cut off thehair of the upper lip quite close. Indeed, wearing as they do thethilem, the beard and the mustachios are completely hidden. TheKailouees leave the crown of the head, which is close shaved, as in thecase of the Mahommedans of the coast, quite bare, exposed to the sun andweather. Around the lower part of the head they wind a long narrow stripof black cotton stuff (called _rouanee_ in Soudanee), which is continuedround the face, upper and lower part, and forms the thilem, only aboutan inch breadth of the face being exposed or visible; that is, theportion including the eyes and bridge of the nose. The generality of theKailouees wear, besides, a tobe, or long broad cotton frock (or rathershirt, for nothing is worn under it at the upper part of the body), withimmensely wide sleeves. Those a little better off also wear trousers, very wide about the loins, narrow at the legs, and drawn round the waistwith a belt. All use leather sandals, strong and thick; some of them areprettily made. The whole of this apparel is imported from Soudan, therebeing apparently no manufactures in Aheer. 

The arms of the men, --for all go armed with some weapon, --are a daggerunder the left arm, a sword slung on the back, and a spear in the righthand. The spear-shaft is wood, whilst those of the Ghât Tuaricks andHaghars are frequently metal, of the same substance as the point of theweapon. These iron spears are said to be manufactured by the Tibboos. They are much more formidable weapons than the spears with woodenshafts. When mounted on their maharees, all the Kailouees have shieldsmade of the tanned skins of animals, generally of the wild ox (_bugarawahoosh_). To these arms the people in Aheer now begin to addmatchlocks, which are sent up from the coast. The sword is not worn onthe back when riding, but hangs down on the right-hand side, sheathed ina fantastic leather cage. 

A few of the poorer sort of Kailouees appear with bows and arrows. Thelatter they carry in very close bundles, so well packed up that not onecan separate from the other. They told me they were poisoned, and wouldnot let me touch them. Amongst the accomplishments of the Gighis andmagicians of Africa is that of poisoning arrows. The pagan nations aregenerally very expert in this

 "dreadful art, To taint with deadly drugs the barbed dart. "

The younger and more fashionable Kailouees wear round their necks, andhanging down over their breast, a large necklace of charms sewn inleather bags. Some also wear a sort of cloth cap, called bakin zakee, ofa green colour, round which they bind the turkadee, or black turban. Onthis cap they also occasionally wear charms, done up in small metalboxes. Their camels are very fantastically dressed in leatherntrappings. 

The great men, and indeed all those that can afford it, despise thesimple Kailouee costume, and indulge in all the rich dresses which areso much liked by the Moors of the coast, --burnouses, shasheeahs, turbans, veneeses, caftans, tobes of silk, &c. 

The dress of the women whom we see about is a simple cotton tobe, covering them from neck to heels. The colour of these tobes is generallyblue-black, dyed with indigo; some are glazed with gum. Many, however, are white, and ornamented in front about the neck with silkenembroidery, --a costume which gives them a very chaste and elegantappearance. Sometimes the tobes are variegated in colour, as are thetrousers; but the sombre, or pure white, are the most popular. 

I have set down the Kailouee names for various articles of dress as wellas weapons:--

Green cloth cap Bakin zakee. Turban, or bandage round the head and face Taghalmous. Red or other caps Takabout. Frock and shirt Teekatkat. Trousers Eskarbaee. Sandals Eghateema. Dagger Azegheez. Sword Alagh. Spear Ebzaghdeer. Shield Aghar. Arrow Amour. Bow Takanya. Leathern bag for tobacco, pipe, needles, thread, scissors, looking-glass, and other small things, --nicknacks Elbes. Charm Sheera. 

I can scarcely yet venture to pronounce an opinion on the character ofthe Kailouees. They decidedly differ from the Haghar and AzgherTuaricks, in being more civil and companionable. But they seem to haveacquired from Soudan the habit of petty thieving, from which the Hagharsare especially free. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Rainstorm--Overtures from En-Noor--Another Interview--Aheer Fashions--Agreat Lady--Hoisting the British Flag--A devoted Slave--Sultan ofAsoudee--Attack on a Caravan--Purposed Razzia--Desert News--BuyingWives--A peculiar Salutation--Oasis of Janet--New Razzias--Costume ofthe Sultan--The Milky Way--Noise at a Wedding--Unquiet Nights--Sicknessin the Encampment--A captive Scorpion--Nuptial Festivities--An insolentHaghar--Prejudice about Christians--Movements in Aheer--Bullocks. 

_Sept. 24th. _--We had a good deal of wind yesterday, but no appearanceof rain. This morning was fine, clear, and warm; but just after noon asudden fall of rain came, followed, within five minutes, by a tempest ofthunder, lightning, rain, and hail, which broke immediately over ourheads, and carried away our small tents. Even my Bornou tent, havingbeen dried up by the recent weather, admitted the rain, and several ofour things were wetted. The tempest itself did not last more thanfifteen or twenty minutes; and by the time the moon rose in the evening, all clouds had cleared away, and the heavens were as pure as in themorning. I may observe that the rain is less disagreeable to me than theclouds of sand-dust, with which we are at other times persecuted. Thefine particles cover and pervade everything, and getting between theskin and the flannel, produce an irritation like the pricking ofneedles. 

This day Yusuf brought a message from En-Noor, to the effect that he hadheard from various people that I had brought a sword for him from theQueen of England, and also a letter from Her Majesty. He added: "I trustI have done nothing to offend the Consul or his companions; and I praythat there may be nothing between us but good feeling and justice--nolying, nothing but truth and fair dealing. "

It now seemed to me that a good opportunity had arrived for introducingthe subject of the treaty; and I determined to make an effort, beingconvinced, from recent transactions between En-Noor and his brotherchieftains, that he exerts paramount influence in Aheer; so that it maybe of considerable benefit to Christian travellers that a treaty ofamity and commerce should be signed by him. Yusuf therefore prepared atreaty in Arabic, and I one in English. This done, I caused En-Noor tobe informed of our intentions, and, taking with me a sword, went tovisit him with some anxiety. 

We found the Sultan, in company with half-a-dozen people; he received usin a very friendly manner, and really seemed on this occasion to be whathe professes to be, the friend and Consul of the English. I explained tohim, that we certainly had this treaty ready for him, and intended tohave presented it to him on our arrival; but on account of oursufferings and the robberies committed on us, and seeing the country ina state of revolution, I had no heart to present to his highnessanything from the Queen of England. However, now that things were moresettled, and as I saw there was authority in the country, I had muchpleasure in proposing for his signature a treaty from my Government. Atthe same moment, as an incentive, I presented the sword (a small navalofficer's sword, with a good deal of polished brass and gilding aboutit, of the value, at most, of five pounds). To my great satisfaction, his highness accepted both treaty and present with ardent manifestationsof pleasure. He made me read the document in English, to hear the soundof our language; and he also desired me to leave with him an Englishcopy. This we did, with some explanation of the contents in an Arabicletter on the back. We then took our copy in Arabic. The sword pleasedhim greatly, on account of its lightness, for he is an old man, not verystrong; and because it glittered with gold. We wrote the maker's name inArabic, and gave directions to have it well preserved. He inquired afterDrs. Barth and Overweg, and seemed to take great interest in ourwelfare. 

In the midst of our conversation a lady, one of the Sultan's femalerelations, came, moved no doubt by curiosity, into the room. She wasevidently a fine dame, a person of fashion in this Saharan capital. Hercountenance, in due obedience to the requirements of _ton_, was not"_rouged_ up to the eyes, " but "_yellowed_ up to the eyes!" There cannotbe a more appalling custom. Imagine a young lady, of brown-blackcomplexion, daubed with brilliant yellow ochre! The paint covers thewhole face, from the roots of the hair to the lower jaw, forming twosemicircles with the upper lips. Between the eyes are three blackbeauty-spots, descending perpendicularly on the bridge of the nose. Theeyebrows are blackened, and joined, so as to form one immense archacross the face, under the yellow brow. Is it possible to disguise thehuman countenance more completely?

The dark-blue cotton skirt of this lady was turned up behind over herhead, so as to form a kind of hood; but underneath she wore a colouredpetticoat. Generally, the women of Tintalous wear a frock, or chemise, and a piece of cotton wrapper over their head and shoulders. [18] Thiswrapper, which serves as a shawl, is not unlike, in effect, the blackveil worn by the Maltese women. The lady we saw at En-Noor's wore aprofusion of necklaces, armlets, and anklets of metal, wood, and horn. She gazed about for some time and then went her way. After asking andreceiving permission to hoist the British flag over the tents, and tofire a salute, we imitated her example. This is my first success indiplomacy! On returning, we prepared for our evening's festivities, butthe tempest assailing us we waited till fairer weather. 

 [18] Answering to the gown and head-veil of the fellâhs. --Ed. 

At five in the evening we hoisted the British flag, and fired no lessthan a hundred musket discharges. I do not recollect that this ceremonywas ever before performed in the desert, in Bornou or Soudan, althoughthe union-jack certainly now flies at Mourzuk and Ghadamez, on the roofsof the consular houses. 

Now I pray God that our great troubles may be over in Aheer--littletroubles we must always encounter, and bear with fortitude. Our servantsand friends are much rejoiced at our success with En-Noor, and theypromise me farther success in Soudan and Bornou. Alas! God alone knowswhat is reserved for us; but we must not despair after these, events ofAheer. At first all was black, without one solitary ray of light; now, all the Sultans of Aheer are determined they say, conjointly, to affordus protection: whilst the people are showing themselves more friendlyevery day. 

A strange thing is a devoted slave. Zangheema is the devoted slave ofEn-Noor. He is his right hand, his man of business, his vizier, hisshadow, his second self. Alternately Zangheema attends the marts ofMourzuk and Kanou; and, fortunately for us, he is now going to Kanou. 

_25th. _--Whilst we were occupied in drying our clothes after theprevious day's tempest, we learned that another Sultan had put himselfon the list of beggars. His Excellency Astakeelee of Asoudee has writtena long letter to En-Noor, of which we are the subject. The substance isthat it is a sin (harâm) to plunder us Christians. En-Noor says we mustsend him some trifle as a present. There remain yet to come Lousou andsome others. I am glad we are not expected to give much in these cases, as our means would not allow us to do so. I sent to Astakeelee a redcloth caftan or long loose gown, a white turban, a fez, a smalllooking-glass, and a few cloves for the Sultana, the total value abouttwelve dollars. 

Serious news has just come in from the northern frontier. It appearsthat the Azgher who followed us all the way from Aisou to Aheer, secretly exciting the people against us, have joined with the Kailoueeborderers in an attack upon a small Tibboo caravan. Two of the merchantshave been killed, and thirty-five slaves stolen and carried away overthe desert, in the direction of Tuat. 

This news was brought in the afternoon by a caravan of Fezzanees, whohave arrived from Ghât. They declare that they buried the bodies of thetwo murdered men. A servant who escaped gave them the rest of the news. It is probable that the Tibboos made considerable resistance on theroad, as they are brave fellows, and this resistance occasioned theirbeing murdered. The news has produced great excitement. 

The people begin to see the evil effects of countenancing the forcedexactions made upon us. This will be an instructive lesson to the holymarabouts of Tintaghoda, who headed the tribes of the frontier againstus unfortunate Christians. 

When we met these very small caravans on the road, with only two owners, three or four servants, and some forty or fifty slaves, and all withoutarms, or perhaps with only a couple of swords, I used to wonder at theirapparent security, and could not help observing, when we were night andday pursued by bandits, "These robbers must have an extraordinaryaffection for Muslims, and be very Deists themselves; for these fewdefenceless people pass unmolested, and we are pursued continually, although our caravan is full of arms. "

En-Noor and the new Sultan of Aghadez have been talking loudly of arazzia to the north; they will now see its absolute necessity, unlessthe route between Aheer and Ghât is to be closed, except for very largecaravans. 

The Fezzanees who left Ghât nineteen days after us also say that beforethey started the news had arrived there that the Christians were allmurdered by the people of Janet. They add, besides, that they met Waldeeat Tajetterat, together with the people of Janet, amounting to seventymaharees, all encamped there. If true, probably these were the Tuaricks, with whom we were menaced at Taghajeet. The people of Janet were inpursuit of us. Waldee persuaded them to retrace their steps, declaring, which indeed was the truth, that the Christians were by that timearrived in the country of En-Noor, and were consequently beyond theirpursuit. The bandits hearing this, immediately returned. 

The Fezzanees praise the exertions which Waldee made on our behalf. Hereafter we shall be able, if we live, to verify this intelligence. Itseems doubtful that the people of Janet should be nine days too late forus. However, our informants declare they gave the brigands victuals anda few presents. 

I suppose that the grossly-exaggerated accounts which have been spreadas to the vast sums that Hateetah and Wataitee got from us had much todo in getting up this fermentation in the desert of Ghât. We knewalready that all the tribes and sheikhs were jealous of our escort. Imust renew my application to Gagliuffi for the restitution of theproperty of the British Government; if not, the people who form theproposed razzia will divide it amongst themselves. 

_26th. _--En-Noor has sent me word this morning that I may make myselfquite at home in his city, and have nothing whatsoever to fear. Moreover, he begs to inform me that he has sent for our lost camels tothe districts where they are supposed to be detained, with a peremptoryorder, that if they are not immediately given up they are to be seizedby force, and if not found, other camels are to be confiscated insteadof them. This may be the first effect of the slaughter of the Tibboos. It is quite clear, however, that En-Noor is bound in honour to recoverfor us our lost beasts of burden; their detention must otherwisedisgrace his authority. 

As soon as a Moor or an Arab gains a little money, he begins in thefirst place to buy a new wife. The merchants, especially those whotraverse the Sahara, have a wife and an establishment at all theprincipal cities. When they have half-a-dozen of these establishmentsthey are then great men. Es-Sfaxee has gained a little money by ourmisfortunes, and he now begins to talk of buying a young slave for awife, and what not, to attend him on the road. But no sailor, who sailsthe waters of the world through and through, and has a lass at everyport, manages matters so well as the travelling Moorish merchant. ThisMoor has his comfortable home in every large city of the interior ofAfrica, and no one inquires whether he exceeds the number fixed by thelaw of the Prophet or not. Indeed, no one knows how many wives he has, or where they are. 

Ferajee, of the escort, had a particular salutation, by which he usedalways to address me. It continues to be repeated by some of our people:"Othrub Gonsul! Fire off the gun, O Consul! Othrub Gonsul!" This saluteI always heard when Ferajee was in a good humour, and now it is used tosignify that our affairs are looking up. 

According to a Tanelkum, Janet is entirely peopled by Azgher or GhâtTuaricks, and members of the tribe of Aheethanaran, who now live on goodterms with the Azgher. This tribe is scattered about as far as Falezlez. It was the people of the same tribe who formed a razzia expeditionagainst us. The oasis of Janet, however, is not independent. It issubject to Shafou; but has a local government of its own. 

Every day brings the news of a new razzia. This morning it is reportedthat some brigands of Oulimid who inhabit a district beyond Aghadez, came down upon the people of Aghadamou, a place five days fromTintalous, on the route of Soudan, destroyed their houses, and carriedaway a great number of their camels. Aghadamou is represented to be awady, with a number of huts scattered about. I had not heard of thisplace before as being on the Soudan route. 

In the afternoon En-Noor walked out, and came up to me and saluted me. As I passed by his highness I had an opportunity of noticing his dress. He wore over the body a plain blue-checked Soudan robe, with trousers ofa similar material; on his head was a red cap bound round with ablue-black bandage (turkadee), in the form of a turban, but alsobrought, according to the invariable custom of the Tuaricks, over andunder the eyes. His shoes were the common Soudan sandals; and thus, witha long wand, or a white stick, he proceeded with a slow-measured pacethrough the streets of the town. A dependant followed the Sultan at ashort distance, but the absence of an escort proclaimed how deep-rootedwas his authority. 

To-day, for the first time, En-Noor sent to buy something of us, viz. Aloaf of white sugar. As Overweg is going to Asoudee under the protectionof En-Noor, I gave him the loaf of sugar, and told him to send it, onhis part, as a present to the Sheikh, and at the same time to ask him toget his escort ready. 

The Fezzanees call the Milky Way, which appears at this season nearlyoverhead early in the evening, "the road of the dates, " it being now thetime in which the dates ripen. 

Late in the evening a troop of twenty maharees came riding straight upto our tents. Although none of our people were gone to bed, although allwere up and about talking, not a single person saw them coming butmyself; and I only saw--none of us heard, so noiselessly did they stealover the sand. This troop merely came in to bait for the night. They, however, brought some person with them who is about to be married to awoman of Tintalous. 

_27th. _--I rose early, having slept little on account of noises ofvarious sorts, which continued all night long. First, there was a drumperpetually beating, announcing rudely enough the approaching nuptials;then there was a cricket singing shrill notes at my head; and then therewas the screech-owl making the valley of Tintalous ring again with itshideous shriek. Add to all, between the roll of the big noisy drum, thecries and uproar of the people. This morning there are groups of peoplesquatting all about. Two maharees are riding round and round one group. Before another is a man dancing as indelicately as a Moorish woman ofthe coast. 

News of still another razzia ushers in the day. A small caravan, it isreported, was attacked a few days ago, on the route between this andZinder. The principal merchant was killed, and all the goods and slavescarried away. The few agents now in Tintalous see clearly that thisroute will become, for the future, safe only for large caravans. En-Noorsays of the villages which were attacked by the tribe of Oulimid, thatthe people must have been chickens not to have defended themselves; butthe fact is, the whole country is now, to a certain extent, abandoned tothe pillage of lawless banditti. 

In the evening the people contrived to celebrate the preliminaries ofthe approaching nuptials. The bride, I now find, is no less a personagethan the daughter of En-Noor, --a full-grown desert princess. The Sfaxeeand several other foreign merchants fired in the evening salutes inhonour of the occasion. The drum was again kept beating all night, accompanied again by the crickets and the screech-owl. Oh for a quietsleep!

_28th. _--Late in the evening another troop of twenty maharees came tovisit En-Noor, and assist at the nuptials. They were known at somedistance by the jingling of the bells, which are always worn on theircamels on such occasions. The drumming was kept up again the greaterpart of the night, the screech-owl and crickets joining the discord asbefore. 

_29th. _--Several of our people have recently been unwell, Yusuf amongstthe rest. They take little care of themselves, and attribute theirillness to the ghaseb. I expect we shall have them all ill in Soudan. 

Early this morning I found Ibrahim, servant of the Germans, holding inhis hand and playing with a huge scorpion, which he had caught near thetents. He seemed to have fatigued it so much that it could not sting. Itkept, indeed, always striking with its tail, but very feebly. Its headwas not at all prominently brought forward out of its body, and itlooked as if it had no head at all. It had ten legs. I told Ibrahim thathe was a marabout, at which he was greatly flattered. 

The twenty maharees have joined the nuptial festivities this morning. Anumber of women are squatting in a group on the ground, and the menmounted on their camels are riding round and round them, sometimes insingle file, and at other times in two's and two's. Whilst this is goingon, another mounted party gallops up one by one to the group from ashort distance. All this is done to the sound of rude noisy drums. Ihave not heard any songs, or seen any other species of music but thisdrum. There are, however, several drums of different sizes, andproducing various noises. They are made of wood and with bullocks' hide. 

The women looloo as on the coast, and both men and women dance; notexactly as the negroes do, but still somewhat indelicately. Hamma, whocommanded our escort, has returned from visiting his friends. 

The Tanelkums report that Hamma is something like Achilles, for he hasoften been wounded, having been in many battles, but none of his woundshave ever proved fatal, or even much incommoded him. 

It would seem that Tintalous, like all the Tuarick countries, is amiserably poor place; for it is said that none, or very few, of thepeople in the town have a fire for cooking their _bazeen_, except thegreat En-Noor himself. The time, however, approaches for the departureof the caravans for Zinder, whence they bring back a great quantity ofghaseb and samen. 

A Haghar, or Ghât Tuarick, I know not which, came into my tent thismorning and behaved insolently. Amongst other antics, he took up a gun. I immediately wrested it out of his hands and sent him out of the tent. Yusuf was present, but, as usual, showed little spirit. 

My blacks were taken aback at my treating a Haghar in this cavalier way;but I observe that they are now more cautious in permitting strangers toenter my tent. The day before I turned a saucy Kailouee out, and myservants begin to understand that I will not be pestered more with thesepeople, and so they keep them off. This is my only plan, for I have toldthem a hundred times not to allow strangers to come and molest myprivacy. 

_30th. _--The noisy drums have ceased, and most of the Targhee visitorshave departed. The people, however, still bring news of razzias, Kailouees with Kailouees. A messenger has returned with his report aboutthe boat; it is quite safe and in good hands, at Seloufeeat. 

A caravan arrived yesterday from Ghât, and reports that Wataitee hadreturned to that place and brought reassuring news respecting us. Behindis coming another caravan, in which is some Moor from Tripoli. Probablythis person will bring news or letters. From the report of Ibrahim, theGermans' servant, it would seem that the people of Tintalous believethat Christians eat human beings; and further, from what I hear, thisstrange prejudice possesses the minds of the lower classes in manycountries of Soudan. Such are the opinions of the semi-barbarians ofAfrica respecting us and our boasted civilisation! There is much to bedone yet in the world before mankind know one another, and acknowledgeone another as brethren. 

En-Noor sent word this morning that he and his friends, the Sultans ofAsoudee and Aghadez, had combined a razzia against the people of Tidekand Taghajeet, who had plundered us on the road; and that fifty mahareeshad gone to execute their purposes. This is the expedition which hasbeen long talked of: we shall see its results. Dr. Barth is makingarrangements for going to Aghadez. 

I have prepared a draft of a treaty, which Yusuf, who accompanies Barth, will take with him. I have also made a selection of presents for theSultan of Aghadez. 

There is now an immense movement throughout all the Kailouee country. Itis supposed that the razzia for the west has other ulterior objectsbesides merely chastising the Fadeea and people of Tidek for plunderingus. The power of En-Noor more and more developes itself. He seems to bedetermined to take every opportunity to consolidate it. 

_Oct. 1st. _--Yesterday evening I saw the first drove of bullocks in thiscountry; it belonged to En-Noor. Overweg made a bet with me that En-Noorwould give us one of these animals to-day. I took his bet of twelvesmall Aheer cheeses against his six, and won; for the greedy old dog hassent us no bullock. This morning a man offers me a draught bullock forsale. The price demanded is fifteen metagals of this country, two anda-half of which are equal to a Spanish dollar. He lowered his price toeight, and the blacks offered seven, but eight were at last given. Oneof our people mounted the naked back of the bullock, and rode him asquietly and easily as a little pony. 

NOTE ON THE TERRITORIAL DIVISION OF AHEER OR ASBEN. 

In the text, a list of towns and villages has already been given. Thefollowing, obtained from another source subsequently, is far morecomplete, and probably more correct. In it the towns and districts areall described according to their situation from Tintalous, the pointfrom which they are made to radiate, both with regard to their compassdirection and distance. This account of the territorial division ofAheer is nearly an exact translation from an Arabic paper, drawn up byMahommed Makhlouk, Fighi and Secretary of the Sultan En-Noor. I have notdistinguished any of the emphatic letters, the present transcript beingenough for my purpose. 

WESTERN DIVISION. 

 Distance No. Of Men. 

Satartar, N. W. 3 hours 100Takardaee 3 h. 30Akeeka 4 h. 20Asqudaee, S. S. W. 6 h. 120Tagharet 6 h. 50Tshagadmara 6 h. 20Ebenturaghak 8 h. 30Tugurut 10 h. 30Tshemeya 8 h. 100Edaka 2 days 150Taleghat 2 d. 50Agata 2 d. 50Tegheedda 1 d. 20Agalal 1-1/2 d. 100Eretawa 2 d. 50Ghargàr-Dandamu 2 d. 50Yinwajuda 3 hours 40Tandawee 5 days 50Baeenabu 5 d. 50Sakalmas 6 d. 30Egadas (Aghadez)Banfalas 6 hours 20Tanwansa. 6 h. 15Tingareegaree 6 h. 10Asaduragam 6 h. 50Areera 6 h. 30Tshezoulah 1 day 15Esalel 1 d. 30Tagurat 1-1/2 d. 30Abarakam 1-1/2 d. 30Tshemeleen 1-1/2 d. 30Egalak 1 d. 50Tshummuru 1 d. 50Tadanak 1 d. 20Asada 2 d. 50Bawas 1-1/2 d. 40Taoudaras 3 d. 40Tafaraghat 3 d. 40Shintaburag 4 d. 30Tasouba 4 d. 30Emalaoulee 5 d. 50

NORTHERN DIVISION. 

Tamgag 2 days 300Takamas 1 d. 50Zeggagheen 2 d. 100Zalaelat 2 d. 300Tadag 3 hours 50Tintabourak 3 days 100Tafadad 4 d. 50Esnalam 4 d. 50Safes 2 d. 100Tagut 6 hours 20Takurnaraghat 1 day 70Aberkam 1 d. 40Tanutmulat 1 d. 30Tintaghoda, N. W. 2 d. 200Efruwan 2 d. 100Takreza 2 d. 60Kalfadäee, N. W. 4 d. 500Fadaee, N. W. 4 d. 400Tidek, N. N. W. (a Wady) 3-1/2 d. Wadekee 1 d. 20Anumagaran 2 d. 150Asarara, N. N. W. 2 hours 30Bungutan 2 days 150Tadoudawat 2 d. 100Bakerzuk 1 d. 20Azutu 4 d. 50Edukal 2 d. 80Agargar 6 hours 50Foudet 6 h. 20Maghet 1 day 40Tshafouak 1 d. 20Egatram 1 d. 20Seloufeeat, N. W. 2 d. 150Tafkun 2 d. 100Agalal 2 d. 100Dellan 4 d. 400Ekroun, N. 8 hours 60

EASTERN DIVISION. 

Aghoua, N. E. 8 hours 50Amuzan {N. E. Three } 7 h. 100Amuzeen {places } 7 h. 20Amuzzan {adjoining. } 7 h. 10Azanghaeedan 8 h. 40Efarghar 8 h. 20Tazaranet (date palms) 1 day 40Aghaglee 1 d. 30Tshintajaee 1 d. 100Kalawazaee 1 d. 15Eyangal 1 d. 20Ajin-Yeeris 1 d. 100Afara 1 d. 20Tafusas 1 d. 10Zagadaou, S. E. 1 d. 50Tshintagheedeen 1 d. 100Maddad?Tansumat 1 hour 10Alerasa 2 days 30Elakaran 1 d. 20Tezreera 2 d. 20Azaneeras, N. E. 1 or 2 d. 50 or 60Tanasuma }Tanousamet } one place? 6 hours 10Talaou, E. W. E. 6 h. No peopleBukezan, N. E. 8 h. 15Atas 1 day 100Thaweezawa 1 d. 10Tagaee 1 d. 20Touweezawan 1 d. 40Elabag 1 d. 30Ebul?Tagumarat 1 d. 100Gutag 1 d. 20Tadakeet 1 d. 30Aghazar-Nanou, S. E. 1 d. 20Azar 1 d. 100Aghammelaee 1 d. 30Zanwazgar 2 hours 10Thintaghalee 1 day 10Talaeeshena 1 d. 10Shafazres 2 d. 20

SOUTHERN DIVISION. 

Shouwerkedan 2 days 30Atakaee or Tatakaee 3 d. 30Dagergadu 1 d. *Aganjam 2 d. *Baren Tafeedee 4 d. *Ajeewa 4 days *Tableel 3 d. *Asawee 3 d. *Amzagar 4 d. *Takarakum 4 d. *Tsheezan-Tarakat 2 d. *Akaram 3 d. *Tshehousat 3 d. *Emugazem 4 d. *Taraten 4 d. *Tazeezaleet 4 d. *Eface 4 d. *Tshublaghlaghah 4 d. *Mairee 2 d. 20Baouwat 3 d. 40Taghoura 4 d. 100Rasma 3 d. 30Afaraghab 3 d. 40Gursed 3 d. 30Shekareshoureen 2 d. 20Bomdaee 2 hours 30Jintalewat 1 day 20Tshinwanou 1 d. 50Gazawa 2 d. 10Talazeghreen 2 d. 1000Afasas 2 d. 1000Efoutsham 2 d. No peopleTuburneet (a well) 2 d. Tammanee 2 d. 100Takarzarga 3 hours 15Anakkara 2 days 100Tshinkeewa 2 d. 20Wallag 2 d. 100Ekrenusoul 2 day 60Aghargharan-Tulama 3 d. 40Wuna 4 d. 100Ajeeru-Taleya 3 d. 200Barghut 4 d. 40Asaba 4 d. 30Takraoukaraou 4 d. 30Tourayal 5 d. 100Ekourak 6 d. 40Bagazem, S. W. 4 d. 380Taghaoujee 7 d. 600Nagharabu 2 d. No peopleEnfasag 3 d. 100Tshegayeen 3 d. 40Tagbata 4 d. 15Nabaraou 4 d. 100Azangarran 3 d. No peopleAnfag 4 d. 200Ekuffawan 4 d. 20Ataghas-Tawarat 4 d. 100Aghalgawa 4 d. No peopleEgloulaf, S. W. 6 hours 200

In the places marked with a star there are no inhabitants, the peoplehaving emigrated to Bornou, or been captured and carried thither. 

The number of men, or adult males enumerated in the above columns, amounts to 12, 731. Taking this number as the foundation-stone ofAsbenouee statistics, the population may be reckoned in this way, according to the manners of the Kailouee people:--

Adult males 12, 731Adult females (wives) 12, 731Female slaves or concubines (a fifth of the adult) 5, 000Children (two for every adult male) 25, 462Town of Tintalous 450City of Aghadez 2, 500 ------ 58, 874

There are still remaining to be added in the computation the statisticsof numerous tribes on the frontiers, or surrounding Aheer and Aghadez. 

END OF VOL. I. 

LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.