JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THENEIGHBOURING COUNTRIESBy William Griffith. Arranged by John M'Clelland. 

[Sketch of William Griffith: pf. Jpg]

CONTENTS. 

Notice of the author from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society, andExtracts from Correspondence. 

CHAPTER

I Proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the Examination of theTea Plant. 

II Journal of an Excursion in the Mishmee Mountains. 

III Tea localities in the Muttock Districts, Upper Assam. 

IV Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookum. 

V Journey from Hookum to Ava. 

VI Botanical Notes written in pencil, connected with the foregoingChapter. 

VII General Report on the foregoing. 

VIII Notes on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to Rangoon, written inpencil. 

IX Journey towards Assam. 

X Continuation of the same, with Notes on the Distribution ofPlants. 

XI Journey from Assam into Bootan, with Notes on the Distribution ofPlants. 

XII Continuation of the Journey in Bootan. 

XIII Return of the Mission from Bootan, with MeteorologicalObservations, etc. 

XIV Journey with the Army of the Indus, from Loodianah to Candahar. 

XV Journey from Candahar to Cabul. 

XVI Journey from Cabul to Bamean--the Helmund and Oxus rivers. 

XVII Journey from Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur. 

XVIII Journey from Peshawur to Pushut. 

XIX On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants. 

XX Journey from Pushut to Kuttoor and Barowl in Kaffiristan, andreturn to Pushut and Cabul. 

XXI Journey from Cabul to Kohi-Baba. 

XXII Journey from Peshawur to Lahore. 

XXIII Journey from Lahore to Simla. 

XXIV Barometrical Heights and Latitudes of places visited throughoutAffghanistan. 

LIST OF PLATES. 

I VIEW FROM NUNKLOW

II THE VILLAGE OF NUNKLOW

III CAPTAIN MATHIE'S CUTCHERRY, THE BOOTAN HILLS, AND HIMALAYA

IV THE HIMALAYA FROM RANGAGURRAH

V BRAMAKHOOND AND FAQUEER'S ROCK

VI THE MORI-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND

VII THE DEO-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND

VIII THE VALLEY OF HOOKUM

IX MEINKHOOM

X VIEW FROM BEESA

XI VIEW ON THE JHEELS

XII THE OK-KLONG ROCK

XIII KULLONG BRIDGE

XIV TASSGOUNG FROM UPPER KULONG

XV CHINDUPJEE

XVI GHUZNEE

XVII BAMEAN IDOLS

XVIII Map of the Khyber Pass

NOTICE OF WILLIAM GRIFFITH, from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society, with a few extracts from his private correspondence. 

"WILLIAM GRIFFITH, Esq. , the youngest son of the late Thomas Griffith, was born on the 4th of March 1810, at his father's residence at HamCommon, near Kingston-upon-Thames, in the county of Surrey. 

"He was educated for the Medical profession, and completed his studies atthe London University, where he became a pupil of Prof. Lindley, underwhose able instructions, assisted by the zealous friendship of Mr. R. H. Solly, and in conjunction with two fellow pupils of great scientificpromise, Mr. Slack and Mr. Valentine, he made rapid progress in theacquisition of botanical knowledge. The first public proofs that he gaveof his abilities are contained in a microscopic delineation of thestructure of the wood and an analysis of the flower of _Phytocrene__gigantea_, in the third volume of Dr. Wallich's 'Plantae AsiaticaeRariores'; and in a note on the development and structure of _Targionia__hypophylla_, appended to M. De Mirbel's Dissertation on _Marchantia__polymorpha_, both published in 1832. So highly were his talents as anobserver appreciated at this early period, that Dr. Wallich speaks of himas one "whose extraordinary talents and knowledge as a botanist, entitlehim to the respect of all lovers of the science;" and M. De Mirbelcharacterizes him as "jeune Anglois, tres instruit, tres zele et fort bonobservateur. "

"His note on _Targionia_ is dated Paris, April 2nd, 1832, and in themonth of May of the same year, having finished his studies at the LondonUniversity with great distinction, he sailed from England for India, which was destined to be the scene of his future labours. He arrived atMadras on the 24th of September, and immediately received his appointmentas Assistant-Surgeon in the service of the East India Company. 

"His first appointment in India was to the coast of Tenasserim; but inthe year 1835 he was attached to the Bengal Presidency, and was selectedto form one of a deputation, consisting of Dr. Wallich and himself asbotanists, and Mr. MacClelland as geologist, to visit and inspect the Tea-forests (as they were called) of Assam, and to make researches in thenatural history of that almost unexplored district. 

"This mission was for Mr. Griffith the commencement of a series ofjourneys in pursuit of botanical knowledge, embracing nearly the wholeextent of the East India Company's extra-peninsular possessions, andadding large collections, in every branch of natural history, butespecially botany, to those which, under the auspices of the IndianGovernment, had previously been formed. He next, under the directions ofCapt. Jenkins, the Commissioner, pushed his investigations to the utmosteastern limit of the Company's territory, traversing the hithertounexplored tracts in the neighbourhood of the Mishmee mountains which liebetween Suddiya and Ava. Of the splendid collection of insects formedduring this part of his tour some account has been given by Mr. Hope inthe Transactions of the Entomological Society and in the eighteenthvolume of our own Transactions. 

"His collection of plants was also largely increased on this remarkablejourney, which was followed by a still more perilous expedition, commenced in February of the following year, from Assam through theBurmese dominions to Ava, and down the Irrawadi to Rangoon, in the courseof which he was reported to have been assassinated. The hardshipsthrough which he passed during the journey and his excessive applicationproduced, soon after his arrival in Calcutta, a severe attack of fever:on his recovery from which he was appointed Surgeon to the Embassy toBootan, then about to depart under the charge of the late MajorPemberton. He took this opportunity of revisiting the Khasiya Hills, among which he formed a most extensive collection; and having joinedMajor Pemberton at Goalpara, traversed with him above 400 miles of theBootan country, from which he returned to Calcutta about the end of June1839. In November of the same year he joined the army of the Indus in ascientific capacity, and penetrated, after the subjugation of Cabool, beyond the Hindoo Khoosh into Khorassan, from whence, as well as fromAffghanistan, he brought collections of great value and extent. Duringthese arduous journeys his health had several times suffered mostseverely, and he was more than once reduced by fever to a state ofextreme exhaustion; but up to this time the strength of his constitutionenabled him to triumph over the attacks of disease, and the energy of hismind was so great, that the first days of convalescence found him againas actively employed as ever. 

"On his return to Calcutta in August 1841, after visiting Simla and theNerbudda, he was appointed to the medical duties at Malacca: but Dr. Wallich having proceeded to the Cape for the re-establishment of hishealth, Mr. Griffith was recalled in August 1842 to take, during hisabsence, the superintendence of the Botanic Garden near Calcutta, inconjunction with which he also discharged the duties of BotanicalProfessor in the Medical College to the great advantage of the students. Towards the end of 1844 Dr. Wallich resumed his functions at the BotanicGarden. In September Mr. Griffith married Miss Henderson, the sister ofthe wife of his brother, Captain Griffith, and on the 11th of December hequitted Calcutta to return to Malacca, where he arrived on the 9th ofJanuary in the present year. On the 31st of the same month he wasattacked by hepatitis, and notwithstanding every attention on the part ofthe medical officer who had officiated during his absence, and whofortunately still remained, he gradually sunk under the attack, whichterminated fatally on the 9th of February. "His constitution, " says hisattached friend, Mr. MacClelland, in a letter to Dr. Horsfield, "seemedfor the last two or three years greatly shattered, his energies aloneremaining unchanged. Exposure during his former journeys and travelslaid the seeds of his fatal malady in his constitution, while his anxietyabout his pursuits and his zeal increased. He became care-worn andhaggard in his looks, often complaining of anomalous symptoms, marked byan extreme rapidity of pulse, in consequence of which he had left offwine for some years past, and was obliged to observe great care andattention in his diet. In Affghanistan he was very nearly carried off byfever, to which he had been subject in his former travels in Assam. Nogovernment ever had a more devoted or zealous servant, and I impute muchof the evil consequences to his health to his attempting more than themeans at his disposal enabled him to accomplish with justice to himself. "

"The most important of Mr. Griffith's published memoirs are contained inthe Transactions of the Linnaean Society. Previous to starting on hismission to Assam, he communicated to the Society the first two of aseries of valuable papers on the development of the vegetable ovulum in_Santalum_, _Loranthus_, _Viscum_, and some other plants, the anomalousstructure of which appeared calculated to throw light on this stillobscure and difficult subject. These papers are entitled as follows:--

1. On the Ovulum of _Santalum album_. Linn. Trans. Xviii. P. 57. 

2. Notes on the Development of the Ovulum of _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_;and on the mode of Parasitism of these two genera. Linn. Trans. Xviii. P. 71. 

3. On the Ovulum of _Santalum_, _Osyris_, _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_. Linn. Trans. Xix. P. 171. 

"Another memoir, or rather series of memoirs, "On the Root-Parasites, referred by authors to _Rhizantheae_, and on various plants related tothem, " occupies the first place in the Part of our Transactions which isnow in the press, with the exception of the portion relating to_Balanophoreae_, unavoidably deferred to the next following Part. Inthis memoir, as in those which preceded it, Mr. Griffith deals with someof the most obscure and difficult questions of vegetable physiology, onwhich his minute and elaborate researches into the singularly anomalousstructure of the curious plants referred to will be found to have thrownmuch new and valuable light. 

"In India, on his return from his Assamese journey, he published in the'Transactions of the Agricultural Society of Calcutta, ' a 'Report on theTea-plant of Upper Assam, ' which, although for reasons stated avowedlyincomplete, contains a large amount of useful information on a subjectwhich was then considered of great practical importance. He alsopublished in the 'Asiatic Researches, ' in the 'Journal of the AsiaticSociety of Bengal, ' and in the 'Transactions of the Medical and PhysicalSociety of Calcutta, ' numerous valuable botanical papers; but the mostimportant of his Indian publications are contained in the 'CalcuttaJournal of Natural History, ' edited jointly by Mr. MacClelland andhimself. Of these it may be sufficient at present to refer to his memoir"On _Azolla_ and _Salvinia_, " two very remarkable plants which he hasmost elaborately illustrated, and in relation to which he has enteredinto some very curious speculations; and his still unfinished monographof "The Palms of British India, " which promises to be a highly importantcontribution to our knowledge of a group hitherto almost a sealed book toEuropean Botanists. 

"But the great object of his life, that for which all his other labourswere but a preparation, was the publication of a General Scientific Floraof India, a task of immense extent, labour and importance. To theacquisition of materials for this task, in the shape of collections, dissections, drawings and descriptions, made under the most favourablecircumstances, he had devoted twelve years of unremitted exertion. Hisown collections, (not including those formed in Cabool and theneighbouring countries) he estimated at 2500 species from the KhasiyaHills, 2000 from the Tenasserim provinces, 1000 from the province ofAssam, 1200 from the Himalaya range in the Mishmee country, 1700 from thesame great range in the country of Bootan, 1000 from the neighbourhood ofCalcutta, and 1200 from the Naga Hills at the extreme east of UpperAssam, from the valley of Hookhoong, the district of Mogam, and from thetract of the Irrawadi between Mogam and Ava. Even after making largedeductions from the sum-total of these numbers on account of the formscommon to two or more of the collections, the amount of materials thusbrought together by one man must be regarded as enormous. The time wasapproaching when he believed that he could render these vast collectionssubservient to the great end which he had in view. He had some timesince issued an invitation to many eminent botanists in Europe toco-operate with him in the elaboration of particular families; and hepurposed after a few years' additional residence in India to return toEngland with all his materials, and to occupy himself in giving to theworld the results of his unwearied labours. But this purpose was notdestined to be fulfilled, his collections have passed by his directionsinto the hands of the East India Company, and there can be no doubt, fromthe well-known liberality of the Directors, which this Society inparticular has so often experienced, that they will be so disposed of bythat enlightened body as to fulfil at once the demands of science and thelast wishes of the faithful and devoted servant by whom they were formed. It is hoped too, that the most important of his unpublished materials, both in drawings and manuscripts, will be given to the world in a mannerworthy of the author and of the rank in science which hefilled. "--_Proceedings of the Linnaean Society_, No. Xxv, 1845. 

To the foregoing brief sketch which was read before the Linnaean Societyat the Anniversary Meeting 24th May 1845, it is scarcely necessary tomake any addition. It is worthy of remark however, as showing howtalents sometimes run in families, that Mr. Griffith was great grandsonof Jeremiah Meyer, Historical Painter to George the Second, and one ofthe founders of the Royal Academy. It is also but fair to state on thepresent occasion, that he was not himself the only member of the familywho would appear to have inherited something of his grandfather'speculiar art, as we owe the transfer of the landscapes to stone, whichadd so much to the appearance of the following volume, to the talent andkindness of his sister. 

It may perhaps be acceptable in this place to afford a few extracts fromthe private letters of Mr. Griffith, especially those in which he advertswith a liberality of feeling to his contemporaries, no less honourable tohimself than to the persons mentioned. 

The following notes addressed to his uncle, at various periods, exhibitthe sentiments with which he regarded the late Mr. Bauer not merely as anartist, but original observer. 

* * * * *

_From letters of Mr. GRIFFITH, to Mr. MEYER_. 

 _Mergui_: _January 17th_, 1835. 

"My last accounts of Mr. Bauer state him to have been in excellenthealth: he had just completed some more of his unrivalled drawings. "

* * * * *

 _Suddya_: _December 30th_, 1836. 

"Pray give the compliments of the season to Mr. Bauer, to whom I look upwith the greatest admiration: what a pity it is for science that such alife as his is not renewable _ad libitum_. Tell him that I have abeautiful new genus allied to Rafflesia, the flowers of which are about aspan across, it is dioecious and icosandrous, and has an abominablesmell. How I look back occasionally on my frequent and delightful visitsto Kew. "

* * * * *

To MRS. H---. 

 _Serampore_, _Calcutta_: _July 22nd_, 1841. 

"I was aware of the departure of Mr. Bauer through the _Athenaeum_, inwhich an excellent notice of him appeared. He certainly was a man towhom I looked up with constant admiration: he was incomparable in severalrespects, and I am happy to find, that his death was so characteristic ofhis most inoffensive and meritorious life. It is also very pleasing tome to find that he continued to think well of me. How I should have beenable to delight him had he lived a few years longer. "

* * * * *

 _Calcutta_: _June_, 1843. 

"Poor Mr. Bauer, we never shall see his like again, I have seen but fewnotices of his life, which assuredly is worthy of study. There is not aplace I shall visit with better feelings than Kew, it has so manypleasant associations even from my school-days. "

* * * * *

 _Calcutta_: _December 31st_, 1843. 

"Mr. Bauer is not half appreciated yet; he is considered a very greatartist, but what is that to what he was? But he did not fight for hisown hand, though he worked hard enough in all conscience. Mr. Bauer infact preceded all in the train of discovery: he saw in 1797, what othersdid not see till 30 years after. For instance, the elongation of thepollens' inner membrane into a tube, the first step towards the_complete_ knowledge we now have of vegetable embryogeny. Unfortunately, Mr. Bauer drew, but did not write, and when I recall to mind a remark ofMr. Brown, that it was a disadvantage to be able to draw, I always fancyhe had Bauer in his mind's eye; for had he been a writer and not adrawer, before 1800, in great probability we should have known nearly asmuch of embryogeny as we do now. But he shut his portfolio, and folkswent on believing the old fovivillose doctrine and bursting of thepollen, which, his observations of the pollens' inner membrane, wouldhave destroyed at once. Then with regard to Orchideae and Asclepiadeae, he was equally in advance: it would be a rich treat if some one wouldcome forward and publish a selection from his drawings, without a word ofletterpress. "

* * * * *

 _Calcutta_: _February 11th_, 1844. 

"Mr. Bauer's light is not yet set on the hill. Really when I look backat his works I am lost in admiration, and always regret that he workedmore for others than for himself, and that he did not use his pen asfreely as he did his brush. When, in the name of all that is generous, will great men think that true greatness consist in endeavouring to makeothers more prominent than themselves?"

For some years before his death, Mr. Griffith would appear to have had apresentiment that he would not be spared to complete the description ofall his collections. On one occasion, when enumerating those who mightcontribute most efficiently to this object, in the event of its not beingpermitted to himself, he writes:--

"I cannot however refrain from paying my tribute of respect to Mr. GeorgeBentham, the most industrious, perspicuous, and philosophical Botanistwho has systematically contributed to lessen the difficulties under whichIndian Botanists have generally suffered. 

"There are a few others from whom the sincerity of friendship fullywarrants me in expecting every possible assistance: of these Dr. Wight isalready well known, and others are rising rapidly to fill, I hope, thehighest Botanical stations when these shall have been vacated by theleviathans who now occupy them. Let not the cynic accuse me ofpartiality when I mention the names of William Valentine, of Decaisne, and C. M. Lemann. "

He also delighted to speak and write in terms of the warmest regard ofthose to whom he was indebted for facilities in his pursuits. To LordAuckland he invariably alluded in terms of the deepest gratitude--"Underhis Lordship's patronage" he remarks on one occasion, "I have receivedsuch advantages as make me ashamed of the little I have done, and whichare constantly holding up before me my deficiencies in many branches ofenquiry connected with the physiology and distribution of plants. "

* * * * *

The following letters are quoted chiefly for the additional informationthey afford on the subject of his travels and pursuits. His letters toBotanists would of course be more important and interesting. 

* * * * *

 _Suddyah_: _16th September_, 1836. 

"I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the cold weather, as on the 1stof November I hope to accompany ----- to Ava, but in the meantime, Iintend proceeding in search of the tea plant to the Mishmee Hills, especially about Bramakoond, where it is reported to grow. If I find itthere, I will endeavour to trace it up into the mountains, which form dueeast of this an amphitheatre of high rugged peaks. "

* * * * *

 _November 1st_, 1836. 

"I here write from the foot of the 'dreaded' Mishmee Hills. I leftSuddyah on the 15th October, and have already been to Bramakoond, where Ispent three days. I miss you much; you would have been delighted withthe place, which is nothing but rocks and hills. I am recruiting myresources for a movement into the interior of the hills, in which I shallfollow Wilcox's route, taking with me 15 coolies, for whom I amcollecting grain. I have already made considerable collections, chieflyhowever in Botany, with a few stones and birds. I hope before my returnto have seen Coptis teeta in flower, and to have proved that the Beese isdifferent from that of Nepal. I have already seen numbers of theMishmees who are civil people. I have however had great difficultieswith the Chief of the Khond, who though apparently friendly, will, Ifear, do all he can to hinder me from getting to Ghaloom, with the Ghamof which place I wish to have a conference. "

* * * * *

 _Noa Dihing Mookh_: _January 20th_, 1837. 

"I have just returned from the trip to the Lohit much sooner than Iexpected. I saw nothing of any consequence except rapids which arehorrid things, and make one quite nervous. I made a beautiful collectionon the Mishmee mountains, of which more anon. Many of the plants arevery interesting. I was however worked very hard, all my people beingsick: I had even to wash my own clothes, but I fear you will think I amgrumbling: so good-bye. "

* * * * *

 _Loodianah_: _11th December_, 1838. 

"I arrived here in 14. 5 days, notwithstanding some delays on the road, and have put up with Cornet Robinson, Acting Political Agent. I am notpleased with the up-country, and would rather live in Bengal, for Icannot abide sandy plains and a deficiency of vegetation. Loodianah is acurious place, very striking to a stranger, the town is large, builtunder official direction, and consequently well arranged in comparisonwith native towns: there is much trade carried on in it, and it has theusual bustle of a large town. 

"Capt. Wade's house is well situated on a rising ground, and the demesneis a pretty one. Otherwise the country is ugly enough, and very bare, yet it is here well wooded, in comparison with what I hear of Ferozepore. Along the face of the hill near the town, a nullah flows, abounding infish, of which more anon. The rock pigeons, or grouse, are veryabundant, and there are two species, one remarkable for the elongatedside-feathers of the tail. Both are beautiful birds, but very difficultof access. Crows, kites, vultures, adjutants, herons, Drongoles, sparrows, parrots, etc. Remain as before, but most of the less commonbirds are different from those to the south; the most European aregenuine starlings; and, to my memory of eight years back, identical withthose of Europe. I have already got thirty to forty species of fish. Cyprinidae, are by far the most common; one loach, and one ofMacrognathus. 

"But as they are all from one water, viz. The neighbouring nullah, andthe Sutledge being five miles off, I shall put them all into bottles, andsend them off before I leave this. The most edible fish, and one of themost common is the Roh, but it is not the Roh of Bengal, and might wellbe called Cyprinus ruber. Burnes has given I think a drawing of it, which is faithful as to colour. All the forms will be familiar to you, but I hope there will be some new species. 

"I have made further arrangements, and such as will give you a goodinsight into the fish of the Sutledge, as to the number of duplicates!--itis the safest plan for an ignoramus not to discriminate too nicely. I amto-day to get large specimens of the Kalabans, Rohi, etc. What a splendidfish the Rohi is, both to look at and to eat. There are two or threespecies of the transparent _Chandas_, and three or four Perilamps, six oreight Siluridae, besides the Gwali, which is too large; of Ophiocephalustwo or three, exclusive of the Sowli, but all ought to be examined, asthere is no relying on native discrimination. There is a curious animalhere burrowing like a mole, but more like a rat: of this I have not yetgot a specimen, although they are very common. 

"I commence with a list of the fish of this place. I have only tomention that several species are confounded under the name Bhoor, all theChandras under Chunda Begla, Loaches under Pote, all the Perilamps exceptthe Chulwa, which may be from its flavour a _Clupeia_, etc. The fact is, that the fishermen are aware of genera, but not of species, exceptingwhen the distinctive marks are very strong. The fisherman enumeratesforty species, but I have only twenty-six, I have promised him one rupeewhen he completes the list:

 Native Name. Family. General size. 

1. Khaila, ) ( 6. 2. Bhoor, ) ( mature. 3. Rewa, ) Cyprins, ( mature. 4. Bangun, ) ( 18 inches, called also Kala Bhans. 

5. Chund Bigla, mature. 6. Ditto ditto, ditto. 7. Ditto ditto, ditto. 8. Pote, Loach, ditto. 9. Mailoa, Perilamps, ditto. 10. Khurda, ditto Trichopterus?11. Puttra, Salurida, 20 seers. 12. Kuttoa, Ditto, 6 inches. 

13. Ghichila, ) Macrognathus( 7 ditto. 14. Bham, ) ( 3 feet. 

15. Nunghree, ) ( 6 inches. 16. Nowhan, ) Cyprins, ( ditto. 17. Pootea, ) ( 12 inches. 

18. Seengh, Silurida, 8 inches. 19. Bugarlea, ditto. 20. Mootunna, nearly mature. 21. Bardul, 6 inches. 22. Chilwa, Perilamp, ? mature. 23. Nuwha, Esox, ditto. 

24. Gwalee, ) Silurus, ( 2 maunds, 25. Ruttgull, ) ( nearly mature. 

26. Chundee Clupeia, ditto ditto. 

* * * * *

 _Candahar_: _May the 2nd_, 1839. 

"We have seen three changes in the geological structure of the country. 

"The Khojah Omrah was chiefly clay slate, and we are now in anotherformation, which no one seems to know; but it must be different as theoutlines of the hills are completely changed. We are now 3, 500 feetabove the sea. The climate is good, and would be delightful in a goodhouse, but in tents the thermometer varies from 60 to 98 degrees and even105 degrees. 

"I have got a decent collection of plants, only amounting however to 650species. The flora continues quite European. I have some of singularinterest. Compositae, Cruciferae, and Gramineae form the bulk of thevegetation. All fish are very different from those below the Ghats. Ihave five or six species of Cyprinidae. One very inimitable fuscousloach. There are few birds, and fewer quadrupeds; in fact the country isat a minimum in both these respects. "

* * * * *

 _Ghuzni_: _July 25th_, 1839. 

"We have been gradually ascending since leaving Candahar, and are here atan elevation of 7, 600 feet. The same features continue. I have as yetnot more than 850 species. The mountains on every side, and indeed thewhole face of the country, is still bare. Mookloor, a district throughwhich we passed, about seventy miles from this, is well cultivated andinhabited. There are few birds to be seen, and scarcely any insects, butthere are numerous lizards. The thermometer varies in tents from 60 to90 degrees. "

* * * * *

 _Cabul_: _August 11th_, 1839. 

"I am encamped close to Baber's tomb, lulled by the sound of fallingwater, and cooled with the shade of poplar and sycamore trees, withabundance of delicious fruit, and altogether quite happy for the nonce. Ihave not yet seen the town which is a strange place, buried in gardens:but nothing can exceed the rich cultivation of the valley in which we areencamped. Beautiful fields on every side, with streamlets, rich verdure, poplars, willows, and bold mountain scenery, which contrasts mostfavourably with the dreary barren tracts to which we have beenaccustomed. I go with the Engineers to Bamean in the course of a fewdays, when we shall cross ridges of 12, 000 to 13, 000 feet high. 

"I can only find three kinds of fish in this neighbourhood. I have beenmaking some drawings, and collecting a few plants which continue to beentirely European. "

* * * * *

 _Peshawur_: _November 17th_, 1839. 

"I hope some day or other to turn out a real traveller. I am now inhopes of becoming a decent surveyor, and before many years have passed adecent meteorologist. I leave the Army here, and shall part with it, particularly Thomson and Durand of the Engineers, with regret. I startin a short time to travel up the Indus with little before me butdifficulties, however _a la renommee_. If I can do somethingunparalleled in the travelling way I shall be content for a year or twoat least. 

"I have obtained some few specimens of fossil shells from the shinglybeds of the Khyber Pass. They seem to be a Spirifer with a very squarebase, quite different from the common species of the Bolan Pass, which islike a large cockle, and of which I have one beautiful specimen. How Iregret not seeing Bukkur, for with a few days' leisure, a number offossils might be obtained. The older I grow the less content am Iscientifically: would that I had received a mathematical education. Iwas much interested with some quotations from Lyell's Elements in a late_Calcutta Courier_, especially about the Marine Saurian from theGallepagos. What further proof can be wanted of the maritime and insularnature of the world during the reigns of the Saurian reptiles? What moreconclusive can be expected about the appearance of new species? Thispoint would at once be settled if the formation of these islands can beproved not to have been contemporaneous with the Continents. Then theanimal nature of chalk!

"I am doing nothing in botany, but learning Persian, and the use of thetheodolite, with nothing but difficulties to look at all around. I beginto feel of such importance, (do not think me conceited in relation to mycollections and information on geographical botany, ) that I am notoverpleased with the idea of facing dangers alone: however I supposeevery thing is as usual exaggerated. "

* * * * *

 _Bamean_: _August 3rd_, 1840. 

"Yesterday I crossed the Hindoo-koosh by my former route, and thismorning while out, i. E. Trout fishing, was most agreeably interrupted bythe post. The fishing was ended forthwith. Indeed the sun in thiscountry even at elevations of 12, 000 feet is very hot, and has excoriatedmy hands, beautifully white as they were after my sickness, but notbefore I had caught 3 barbels, evidently different from those of theother side of the range. I caught some trout yesterday evening, it is amost beautiful fish, I was particularly struck with the size of the eye, its prominence, and expressive pupil, in opposition to the sluggishnessof the eyes of carps. 

"It is strange that Botany has always been the most favoured of thenatural sciences, it is strange that in spite of what all do say it isthe least advanced of any. How can I reconcile my own splendidopportunities with those of more deserving naturalists in other branches?and I would willingly share them on the principle of common fairness withothers, who I know would turn them to a better account. Oreinus takesthe worm greedily; in the Helmund, 11, 000 feet above the sea, it isabundant. It is the same species I think as that in the Cabul river; butin the Cabul river, Barbus is the predominant fish: in the Helmund it isthe reverse. How can one account for the small elevation at which fishare found in the Himalayan? I cannot imagine it is owing as some thinkto the relative impetuosity of the rivers, which after all is only anassumption. 

"This Bamean valley is the strangest place imaginable, its barrenness andthe variegated colours of the rocks convey the idea of its volcanicorigin, and give it a look as if it had come out of the furnace. Icannot make out where the stones so universally found all over the slopesof the mountains, came from, for very generally they seem water-worn. Ifind no great peculiarity in the flora of this side of the range, exceptan abundance of odd-looking Chenopodiaceous plants, probably resultingfrom the saline saturation of the soil. There is a very singular springon the other side of the range, about 11, 000 feet above the sea: thewater very clear, with no remarkable taste, but every thing around iscovered with a deposit of a highly ferruginous powder. I shall writenext from the fossil locality, which is said to be about forty miles fromthis. I am as stout as ever, but by no means so strong. "

* * * * *

 _Bamean_: _August 21st_, 1840. 

"I am now out of the region of trees, excepting a poplar, of which I willsend you a bit, as the same tree grows in much lower places. The want ofrings in wood is by no means unusual in tropical vegetation. For theproduction of rings, some annual check to vegetation is required: theirabsence is particularly frequent in climbers. The walnut will not be agood instance, because even if you can get it from Java, it is a treethat requires cold, and must consequently be found at considerablealtitudes. Your instances must be taken from subjects that can bear agreat range of climate: you have some in the apricot, vine, etc. I willnot fail in sending you what you want from Cabul, and also from Peshawur, in which almost the extremes of temperature can be contrasted. I willalso get the woods of apricots, cherries, etc. , at the highest elevationson my road back, as I hope to pass through the grand fruit country ofAffghanistan. No Jungermannias are obtainable in this part, nor anywhereindeed, except towards the true Himalayas. I do not remember having seenthe pomegranate growing at Cabul: the place is too cold for it. I thinkhowever, I can get some from Khujjah, where snow lies in winter. I leavefor the Provinces early in October, and shall travel 30 miles a day. Iwant to get to Seharunpore, 15 or 20 days in advance of my time, as Imust run up to Mussoorie and fish in the Dhoon. I shall be in Calcuttain all February. "

* * * *

 _Cabul_: _September 26th_, 1840. 

"I despatch to-morrow the first of the bits of wood, the duplicates willbe sent on the 28th or 29th: on this latter day I leave for Peshawur, andright glad am I that the time has come at last. I will send you the samewoods from Peshawur, but shall scarcely be able to send you pomegranatefrom any thing like a cold place. 

"On receiving your specimens of vine, the following question occurred tome. If wood is a deposit from the leaves or fibres sent down from theleaves, how is the presence of wood to be accounted for in tendrils, which have no leaves, but yet which are evidently branches? The theoryof the formation of wood, which considers it as above, is deemedingenious, but it will not I think be found to be true. The barkevidently has a great deal to say to the matter. 

"I shall be most rejoiced at a remote prospect of again setting to work. I take no interest now in the vegetation of this country. I hope to beat Loodianah _early_ in November; my present intention is to run up toSimla, thence to Mussoorie, and descend on Seharunpore. If I do this, Ishall only leave one point unfinished, and that is the Hindoo-kooshProper, where however I shall have the advantage of Major Sanders of theEngineers, who will pick up a few plants for me. I wish much to takenotes of the vegetation about Simla and Mussoorie, this I can do at a badseason. I shall afterwards be able to compare the Himalayan chain atvery distant points. "

* * * * *

 _Serampore_, -- 1841. 

"I will send you to-morrow dissections of Santalum if I can get a smallbottle for them: under . 5 inch lens you can easily open the pistillum ofSantalum having previously removed the perianth: it is a concial body;you must take care to get it out entire, especially at the base, thenplace it in water, and dissect off the ovula of which there are three orfour, as per sketch. I shall not say what I see, as I want to have youroriginal opinion unbiassed, etc. ; but whenever you see the tubes withfilaments adhering to their apices, pray mark attentively what takesplace, both at the point and at the place where the tube leaves theovulum; your matchless 1/1500 would do the thing. Try iodine with allsuch, after having examined them in water. 

"Should you find any difficulty in dissecting away the ovula, lightpressure under glass will relieve you. I shall be very anxious to knowwhat your opinion is, particularly with regard to the tubes and alladhering filaments; the question now occupying botanists, being this, isthe embryo derived directly from the boyau or is it derived from someparts of the ovulum?

"I hope you can understand these sketches. "

* * * * *

 _Peshawur_: _13th December_, 1839. 

"What a shame it is that botanists should know nothing whatever of theformation and structure of wood! They look at a section of a piece ofoak, and imagine they have discovered the secret, and write volumes onthis imagination, yet they have been told over and over again, thatnothing is to be learnt on such subjects without beginning at thecommencement, which they are too idle to do. To name an abominableAster, is among them of much higher importance than to discover the causeof the growth of wood. Medullary rays are most difficult, because theyare very often deficient particularly in climbers. I am horridly idle, and yet what can I do without books; yet with regard to books, the moreoriginality we possess, the less we require them? There is nothing to begot here except a few marsh plants coming into flower. One beautifulChara, which might disclose the secret, had I good glasses, it is a mostgraceful pellucid form, an undescribed duckweed, a floatingMarchantiaceae. Would that I was settled with a Ross on one hand, and aStrongstein on the other, around my collections with good health and goodspirits. Tell ---- I have in view the division of the vegetable kingdomanalagous to radiata, they include all the Marchantiaceae, and are, toall intents and purposes, Vegetable Radiata. "

* * * * *

 _Pushut_, _1st march beyond Kooner_:_January 29th_, 1840. 

"This will be a letter of odds and ends, you know I was to return toJallalabad; well I reached that place, but left the encampment andcrossed the river, where an advance road making partly for the Koonerexpedition were employed, and having originally determined on going toKooner, I accompanied them two marches, when they were overtaken by thearmy, to avoid which, I halted one day, and on the next proceeded onwardsby the north bank of the river, thus saving all the fords of this horridriver. I should call it beautiful at any other season. The road wasbad, and the last one and a half mile into camp most difficult, the pathwinding round and over spurs of sharp limestone rocks which must have hadabundance of silex in them they were so very hard. At the very worstpart, my headman being in front, all of a sudden I heard three shots inquick succession with the usual hallooing, and then I was called on inadvance, meeting my headman wounded: he has lost the two fore-fingers ofhis right hand. All I saw was three men scrambling up the face of thehill, on whom I opened a fire as soon as my guns came up, and had thepleasure of hitting one on the shield. 

"Such a scene ensued! for when there are three or four on such occasionswe may reasonably expect thirty or forty, and my object was to get out ofthe bad road, and so be close to camp. Some of, or rather all, my peoplebecame dismayed, I had therefore to cheer, to point my double barrels, and in fact to enact a whole legion. One fellow tried to shoot me buthis powder proved faithful, the others were wounded: however they kept insight, and to make matters worse, in one place within twenty yards, sixor seven of my loads were thrown; evening drawing on, and prospectsdisgusting, when at last having passed over one bad part and got downinto a ravine, a number of people were seen closing down on us, but myman had run off to camp, and by shouts succeeded in calling five or six_sepahis_, part of the rear-guard, to our relief, and so we escaped bagand baggage, the rascals making off when the red coats appeared. I wassick at heart at the loss of poor Abdool Rozak's fingers: he is an Arabwith an English heart, bearing his loss most manfully, and when hisfingers were removed expressed anxiety alone about me and my _Sundoogs_(collections). Well then, where should I have been had I been assailedas Abdool Rozak was, I should have been unprepared, and if riding, mymare would certainly have jumped into the river beneath. Thomson {0a}said when he left me, G---, you are rash and Abdool Rozak is rash, takecare or you will get into trouble. My moving about without a guard wasimprudent, and I now return to Jallalabad to get one, or if notsuccessful to wait there until the spring and its floral excitements callme out: what I dislike is danger without any recompense, not a flower isto be had; with excitement it is nothing. I have now had two escapes, one from the buffalo in Assam, and this, which is a greater one, becausehad not the army been delayed by accident at the ford, it would have beeneight or ten miles in advance, and consequently there would have been norear-guard at hand. 

"The country is disturbed, and one can only stir out in the valley itselfclose to camp, which is the more tantalizing as the mountains areaccessible, and covered with forest. Our halt here should put us inpossession of much information respecting these forests. As it is, Ishall leave probably as wise as I came, except in having ascertained thatthe change from the well-wooded Himalaya mountains to those of the Hindoo-koosh, without even a shrub five feet high, takes place to the east ofthis. My employment is surveying and collecting data for ascertainingthe heights of the hills around. But wherever I turn, the questionsuggests itself, what business have I here collecting plants, with somany in Calcutta demanding attention? How I am living! alone, without atable, chair, wine, or spirits, with a miserable beard, and in nativeclothes! but one thus saves much time; how unfortunate that mine now isnot worth saving!

"I have been reading Swainson's volumes in Lardner's Cyclopaedia, inwhich there is a little to which severe critics may object, but a vastdeal more that is beautifully sound. I am quite certain I neverappreciated them before. How wonderful that no one before Macleay andSwainson thought that living beings were created on one plan. I haveimbibed all the important parts with the hope of bringing them to bear onBotany, which is in a shameful state. One talks of the typical nature ofpolypetalous or monopetalous plants; another ridicules the idea, becauseas he wisely says, some polypetalous plants are monopetalous, and viceversa!! he objects, in fact to what constitutes the great value of acharacter, _its mode of variation_. All Swainson's propositionsappear to me philosophical and highly probable, but none of the presentgeneration have eyes young enough to bear such a flood of light as he hasthrown upon them. There are faults I acknowledge, but a man who writesfor money does not always write for fame; rapid writing and much morerapid publishing is a vast evil, but one which is too often unavoidable. I have four or five drawings of fish, one of the spotted carnivorouscarp, the most carnivorous type of all except Opsarion, and perhaps a newsubgenus; {0b} one of the Sir-i-Chushme and Khyber _Oreinus_, and aPerilamp with two long cirrhi on the upper lip. I intend in my travelsnow I am alone, to stop at every fertile place. I am ascertaining thelimit of the inferior snow in these latitudes, which I fancy will be3, 500 feet. Is it not curious that here 1, 000 feet above Jallalabad wehave had no snow, while at Jallalabad there has been abundance. Iattribute it to the narrowness of the valley at this place, and to theforest. When I glance at the subject of botanical geography, howastounding appears our ignorance! we have no data, except to determinethe mere temperature and amount of rain yet men will persist in the ragefor imperfect description of undescribed species, and pay no attention towhat is one of the most important agents in preserving things as they arein our planet, --i. E. Vegetation. On this point Swainson is less happythan on others when he ascribes such importance to temperature, andpoints out the fact that countries in the same latitudes, and having thesame temperatures, produce different animals. "

* * * * *

 _Cabul_, _September 25th_, 1839. 

"I am just on the eve of re-entering Cabul from a visit to Bamean, asingular place on the other side of the Hindoo-koosh, celebrated for itsidols and caves. It has amply repaid a march of 106 miles and backagain. I never saw a more singular place, and never enjoyed myself more:we crossed several high ridges between 11 and 13, 000 feet, but so poor isthe flora that I have only added 200 species to my catalogue, nowamounting to 1200 species instead of 2, 400 as I fully expected. But Imust say I was as much pleased at the acquisition of a genuine _Salmo_ inthe Bamean river (which is a tributary of the Oxus, ) as at any thing. 

"Unfortunately we were so hurried, that I had only one afternoon and thatan unfavourable one, for indulging in my fishing propensities: the chieffish seems to come very near the English trout, and so far as I canjudge, is not found on this side the Himalaya. The other fish of theserivers are a fine Schizothorax or Oreinus, allied to the _Adoee_, a flat-headed Siluroid, a loach, and a small Cyprinus. This is a singularcountry, quite unlike any thing I have seen, and as distinct from theHimalaya in its vegetation, etc. As can well be imagined. Generally itis very barren, and after travelling over so much of the country I haveyet seen only three parts of it decently cultivated. It is reported tobe rich in minerals. 

"But it will never bear comparison with Hindoostan. It is howevercapable of much improvement. It consists of a succession of barrenvalleys, divided from each other by barren ridges, and is generallydeficient in the great fertilizer of all things--water. There isscarcely an indigenous tree in the whole country, and generally very fewcultivated ones, except about Cabul, although they have poplars andwillows well suited to the climate. It has been subjected to so muchmisrule that the natives have become indifferent to its improvement, (ifthey ever felt alive to any such interest. ) The Zoology is very poor, quite at zero. There is a species of Ibex, an _Ovis_, and a _Capra_, which from the frequency of their heads and horns about sacred places andgateways of towns, must be common; but I have never seen more than aportion of one fresh specimen of the sheep. Furs are brought from theHindoo-koosh, but are all too mutilated to be of any use, except to aZoologist with antiquarian eyes: one Jerboa. Hares are rather common insome parts, and about here there is a Lagomys. Of birds there are butfew, but as the vegetation is chiefly vernal, these creatures may perhapsbe abundant. The game birds are quail, three species of partridge, ahuge Ptarmigan? Pterocles of Loodianah. The fauna is richest in Saurianreptiles, and of these one might make a very good collection. I haveonly seen two snakes, and both are I believe lost. "

* * * * *

 _Mirzapore_: _April 26th_, 1841. 

"Request --- to refrain from abusing compound microscopes. Why shouldnot compound and simple microscopes each have their merits? Valentine, who is a great authority, and an unrivalled dissector, says, the simplelens must be suspended. I only wish I could dissect with a compoundmicroscope: what things might not one get access to. The simple lens isquite useless with opaque objects; it only does for transmitted light. Now dissections of opaque objects have been too much neglected. How oddit is that all improvements are ridiculed at first. 

"I enclose a bit of Sphagnam, a curious moss, with curious incompletespiral cells in the leaves. I dare say it will bear preservation inCanada balsam. I have received a new microscope, a queer-looking thing, very portable; one object glass of a quarter inch focus, by Ross; two eye-pieces magnifying linearly 200 to 300 times. I have put it up, but I amnot well enough to decide on its merits. Now that I have arranged all mythings, I am literally frightened at the work I have to do. 

"I am quite annoyed at the idea that German artists make bettermicroscopes than English. I was aware that the lenses were better, butotherwise I imagined that any comparison would be vastly in our favour. Iam curious to know the price, and where to apply for one, as your accountmakes me quite ashamed of mine. Who knows what a fine penetrating powerof 1100 may not disclose. I am very much pleased with your idea ofanointing cuts with nitrate of silver; this hint I will bear in mind. 

"I enclose the first list of fish, No. 2, not that it is of muchuse. --What nonsense it is to collect without knowledge. 

No. Native Name. Family. REMARKS. 

1 Kuggur, Siluridae. 2 Soonnee, Cyprinidae, Back greenish, otherwise pearly-white. 3 Dhurra, Cyprinidae, Fins reddish, red spot on opercule, back greenish-brown. 4 Moogullee, " Perilampoid, Diaphanous, silvery, head reddish. 5 Peedur, " " Like the preceding. 6 Moorr, " " Ditto ditto. 7 Bhanghun, " " Ditto ditto. 8 Kundura, " Perilampus, Back greenish, otherwise quite silvery. 9 Pullee, " " Same as 4, 5, 6, 7. 10 Goolla Ciprinidae. 11 Khunnuree, _Percidae_, Chanda of Buchanan, Diaphanous. 12 Sur-ri-rha, Cyprinidae Perilamp, Silvery-green on back. 13 Gundhan, " Perilampoid, Same colours. 14 Mhukk, " " Ditto ditto. 15 Ghurr, " " Ditto ditto. 16 Dhoalee, Ophiocephalus, Colour brown, with usual marks and bars. 17 Ahaiha, Siluridae, Diaphanous, 3-5 irregular longish stripes. 18 Mhullee, Silurus, Silvery-blueish. 19 Mhoarree, Cyprinidae, Yellowish-green, fins reddish. 5 seers. 20 Dhumpurra, " Brownish-green, 6 seers. 21 Pho-eikee, " Perilampoid. 22 Putollee, Cyprinidae, Back and sides light-green. 23 Poapree, " Back greenish-brown, sides greenish. 24 Shingra, Siluridae, No stripes, lightly tinged with brown. 25 Dhimmurr, Silurus. 26 Ghoa-gha, " Back greenish, punctulate, head reddish. 27 Mokkhurr, Opiocephalus. 28 Dhujjha, "29 Thailla, Cyprinidae, 5 to 6 seers. 30 Mhorakkee, " Much like 19. 31 Singarhee, " Much like 4, 5, 6, 7. 32 Logurr, Siluridae, 3 to 4 faint punctulate longish lines. 33 Ghoje, Not noted. 34 Tupree, "37 Ghunghutt, Perilampus. 38 Soourr, Siluridae, Diaphanous. Faint punctulate lines. 39 Soonaree, Cyprinidae. 40 Phunnee, " Perilampoid. 41 Kutchoo, " Much like the preceding. 42 Saisurr, " Ditto ditto. 43 Coommee, " Much like no. 4. 44 Saluree, " Ditto ditto. 45 Shumsheer, " So called because of its voracity, (Shumsheer a sabre. )46 Ghora, " Same as Soonee. 47 Saboan, " Same as the preceding. 48 Bhambhun, Cyprinidae, Same as Dhurra. 

All the above from the Indus, at Shikarpore. 

No. Family. River. REMARKS. 

49 Cyprinidae, Nari, Small size, colour-silvery, except upper back, which is bluish-green. 50 Siluridae, Mysore. 51 Ophiocephalus, "52 " "53 Cyprinidae, " Same as 49. 54 " Systomus. " A beautiful fish, bright green back, otherwise bright orange-red, fins stained with black colours; fugacious. 55 Cyprinidae, "56 " Systomus, " Back greenish, opercle orange spotted, one black spot near tail. 57 Percida Chamda "58 Perilampoid, "Water of both these rivers, quiescent: bunded up. 59 Cyprinoid, Dadur. 60 " " Same as 54. 61 " Systomus, " Same as 56. 63 Cyprinoid, "64 " "65 " "66 " " Same as 59. 67 Cobites, "68 Cyprinoid, Bolan, Bluish-green, blue bars and dots. Takes the fly. 69 Barbus? " Intestines very long, much like Naipoora. 70 Gonorhynchus? "71 " " Probably a small specimen of 69. 72 Cyprinoid, "73 " Gonorhyncus, Gurmab, Same as 70?74 " "75 Cyprinoid, " Closely allied to the Mahaseer. 76 Ditto Mahaseer, " Beautiful fish with yellow-brown back, golden sides. Takes fly greedily. 77 " Gonorhynchoid, "78 " "79 Silurida, " In Bolan river, deep still water. 80 Cyprinoid, " In small streams. 81 Macrognathus, " Tenacious of life, belly puffy, common throughout; a good deal like a Gudgeon. 82 Loach, Quettah. 83 Cyprinoides, " A beautiful silvery-leaden backed fish, with a streak of bright-red along the side. Common, very like the preceding: of these Quettah fish No. 83 is the most common, 82 the least so. 84 Cyprinus, curious, " not being a mountainous form. 86 " "87 Cyprinoides, Lora, Same mountain form, Gonorhynchoid. 88 " "89 Loach, " Ditto ditto ditto. 90 " " Perhaps same as the preceding. 91 Cyprinoides, "92 " " Like the Adoee. 93 " " Mountain form. 94 " " Large size for the genus. 95 " " _Note_. --Probable number of species 47, deducting those supposed not different96 Cyprinoid, Urghundab. 97 Loach, "98 Siluridae, ""I subjoin a list given me by a fisherman at Shikarpore, with his divisions into large and small:--Large. Small. 

Dhumpurra, Ghunghut. Buree Phookee, Pedir. Buree Thaillee, Soonnee. Mhoarrhee, Phokee. Moukkur, Mogullee. Gundhan, Dhimmur. Singaree, Ghoagar. * Pulla, Khuggur. Seenra. Mhorr. Bhangun. Ghurr. Soourr. Morakee. Tupree. Ghogee. Phopree. Thaillee. * Pulla. Punnotee. Dhaiee. Ghogura. 

(I send this list as all the specimens are not lost, and some are amongthe plants. Most of the species are, I think, distinct, and when theyhave appeared to me not to be so, I have generally noted it on the spot. 

The mountain forms are very distinct, the mouth being under the snout, orhead, the intestines long, peritoneum covered with a black pigment. Theseforms commence at Dadur, 800 feet above the sea: this stream abounds inrapids. 

Gurmab is 1, 100 feet. Quettah, 5, 600 feet. Lora river, 3, 600 feet. Urghundab, 3, 600 feet. 

These lists may be of some small use compared with Burnes's collection. To a certain extent they may be useful as showing the preponderance, etc. Of certain forms. You may rely on my distinctions between Cyprinidae, Siluridae, and Percidae. )

"To-morrow I will send the other list of specimens No. 3, which will Ihope reach you; of all the fish in these parts, the Sir-i-Chushme andCabul river _Oreinus_ travels farthest up. I have caught it at nearly11, 000 feet in the Helmund river. Then come loaches, and the beautifultrout-like Opsarion; other Cyprinidae ascend 2, 000 or 3, 000 feet, theMahaseer scarcely more. Above that, come the genuine mountain forms. 

No. Family. Locality. REMARKS. 

1 Cyprinidae, Streams from A brown fish, with irregular Oreinus? So-faid-koh, black spots. 

2 Cyprinidae, "

3 " " A sombre looking Gudgeon-like fish, back blackish, sides yellowish, punctulate with groups of blackish spots. 

4 Loach, " Colours and patches obscure. 

5 Perilamp, Jallalabad river, Usual silvery-bluish hues. 

6 Cyprinidae, moun- tain form, Schizothorax. 

7 Cyprinidae, _Poo_- " Colours obscure, scales _teoides_, minute, dorsal spine very strong. 

8 Cyprinidae, " A stout fish, of obscure colours, each scale with a transverse more or less wavy red line (like the Nepoora of Assam), mouth nepooroid, intestines very long, very thin, very frangible, packed in longish folds, Peritoneum covered with a black pigment. Herbiv. 

9 Cyprinidae. Peri- " Back metallic bluish-brown, lampoid, otherwise silvery. 

10 Cyprinoid, "

11 " Schizo- " thorax, 12 " " " Back greenish, fins reddish, snout elongated. 

13 " " " Colours brownish, tinged with yellow; perhaps it is the same as the Helmund and Cabul species: intestines packed in a few folds, moderately long, 4. 5 inches longer than body: diameter of body 2 inches. Peritoneum with the black pigment _Carneo-herbivorous_. 

14 Cyprinoid, "

15 Ophiocephalus, Jheels, etc, Bus- Colour rather a rich brown, soollah, pectoral fins barred with chesnut. 

16 Cyprinoid like a " Back brownish: this colour Bleak, Schizo- limited to a narrowish line, thorax, otherwise entirely pearly. Peritoneum covered with black pigment. Intestines rather large, in 3 or 4 folds. 

17 Cyprinoid. A nar- " A very pretty species, row deep fish. Brownish back, marked faintly Perilamp. An both longitudinally and Opsarion? transversely with iridescent patches, abdominal fins reddish. 

18 Cyprinoid, Jheels, etc, Bus- A handsome species allied to soollah, very the Mahaseer; back black, common, otherwise yellowish, fins tinged with red, scales as it were bordered with dusky-black. Intestines short. 

19 " " An oval, rather thick fish, of obscure colours. 

20 " Schizo- " An elegant species, back thorax. Obscurely brown, otherwise pearly. Peritoneum black, covered with pigment. Intestines very long and narrow. 

21 Racoma nobilis{0c} Lalpoor, Cabul A stout fish, with a large river, head, not unlike a trout at first sight Sides bluish silvery grey, back obscurely brown, remarkable for frequent irregular well-defined black spots, faintest in small specimens, fins tinged with reddish. Head flat at top, with some spots. Peritoneum with black pigment. Intestines of large size, loaded with fat, short, not twice the length of the abdomen, cavity loaded with fat. As usual no caeca. A remarkable type: aspectu omnino carnivoris. 

22 Loach, Khyber range A very small and slender stream, from species, light brown, Sir-i-Chushme speckled and barred with spring, temper, brown, attracted 75 degrees, from immediately by scraping up limestone rocks. The bed of the outlet of the spring. 

23 Cyprinid, Orei- Same place, but Back brown, with some noides, occurs down to iridescent hues, sides Khyber ghat yellowish brown, dark spots stream. Confined to back and sides, small but distinct; fins tinged with reddish. Peritoneum loaded with black pigment. Intestines in short loops across abdomen of intermediate size, as to length and diameter. Air bladder small; very common. Swarm in deepish pools under limestone rocks, takes bait, i. E. Offal and worms with great avidity. Like many other species, it is asserted to be the English trout: it rises to the surface. 

24 Loach, Same place com- Shape subcylindrical, pale mon, greenish-brown, with very broad bars of brown, fins spotted with black, otherwise fuscescent; at root of tail a deep black bar. Head depressed, in old specimens broad, closely spotted with black, snout attenuated, apex with cirrhi; upper jaw in the centre with a bony process not unlike an incisor tooth

25 Cyprinid, Opsa- " A beautiful trout-like fish, rion back bluish-black, triangular bars of azure blackish, ending in a point towards glandular line, fins tinged with orange, tail tipped with black. Peritoneum spotted slightly with black. 

26 " Opsarion, " Possibly young specimens of preceding, colours same but fainter. "

* * * * *

 _Memorandum on return from Afghanistan_. 

"As I considered on my arrival at Peshawur in December 1839, that a greatdeal remained to be done, I obtained permission to remain another seasonin Affghanistan. I immediately mentioned my wishes of travelling toGeneral Avitabili, who strongly advised me not to attempt leavingPeshawur in any novel direction, as the whole of his district was muchdisaffected. Soon afterwards I heard of an expedition being on the pointof leaving Jallalabad for Kooner, and I determined on joining it. I re-traversed the Khybur Pass alone, and arrived at Jallalabad just in timeto go in the advance. I was present at Pushut, 18th January 1840; and onthe return of the force I remained behind with Captain Macgregor. InFebruary 1840 I accompanied Captain Macgregor to Chugur-Serai, and thenceto Otipore or Chugur-Serai-Balu on the immediate frontier of Kaffiristan, and through his influence I was enabled to remain there, and to increasemy materials in an extremely interesting direction. I remained aboutOtipore for some weeks, making arrangements for penetrating intoKaffiristan and little Cashgur, and in daily expectation of being joinedby the late Capt. E. Connolly; all my plans, which first seemed topromise success, were completely frustrated by the disturbances whichbroke out in Bajore, consequent on Meer Alum Khan's absence atJallalabad. Capt. Connolly barely escaped with his life from the handsof the Momauds. Meer Alum Khan found on his return towards hisgovernment that he could not leave Chugur-Serai, and at last, circumstances threatened so much around Otipore and Chugur-Serai, thatMeer Alum Khan insisted on my leaving Otipore and on returning with himto Jallalabad. I did not leave a moment too soon, for shortly after, Syud Hoshin turned Otipore by crossing the hills to the north of Deogul, and very soon possessed himself of Otipore. Meer Alum and I reachedJallalabad in safety, having been attacked once on the road. 

"I remained at Jallalabad a few days, and was driven thence to Khaggah bythe necessity of obtaining medical aid. I reached Khaggah in a highfever, and was confined to my bed for six weeks: during my severeillness, I experienced the greatest kindness and attention from Dr. Thomson and Dr. Andrew Paton, of the H. C. European Regt. 

"Early in July I proceeded to Cabul for change of air, and as soon as Irecovered a little strength, started to join Lieut. Sturly, who wassurveying on the Toorkistan frontier. I met that Officer at Syghan theday he left to prosecute his surveys, which had been interrupted by theKamard disturbances: he was recalled to Syghan, in consequence of heavierand more serious disturbance. 

"I returned to Cabul, as I found it impossible to proceed beyond Syghan, and then waited with impatience for a season that would enable me tocross the Punjab without great risk to my still debilitated constitution. 

"My establishment of collectors consisted of unintelligent Affghans, whowere particularly prone to abrupt abscondings, and my supplies ofmaterials and carriage very limited. 

"The botanical collection is as extensive as could be expected from thenature of the country and the climate. It is in excellent order, consisting of about 1500 species, and a great number of duplicates. Thiscollection has been formed on the principles which have guided me onformer travels. Those principles I conceive to require the collection ofevery form in numbers, and in various localities, so that thegeographical limits of each may be estimated, and the examination beopen. They also require information as to habitat, locality, climate, whether the plants are gregarious or not, and whether they contribute togiving peculiar features to the country. I do not hesitate to say thatthis collection contains almost all the plants that existed in flower orfruit along the line of march of the army between Cabul and Syghan, aboutChugur-Serai, Otipore, and Pushut, and in the neighbourhood of Khaggah. 

"The extent over which it was formed is about 1, 600 miles, and on thevariety of geographical position a considerable part of its valuedepends. If the plants between Cabul and Peshawur are less rich, as myjourneys between those cities always occurred at unfavourable seasons, the deficiency has been lessened by my friend Dr. Ritchie. 

"The Ornithological portion of the collection, consists of about 350specimens, is in good order, and contains many objects of interest, valuable for throwing some light on the geographical distribution ofbirds. 

"To the fish of the various tracts I paid considerable attention, butowing to the difficulties of travelling and of climate, the collectionhas suffered severely. At Shikarpore I made an extensive collection ofthe fish of the Indus. I had collected most of the fish of the river, ofthe Bolan Pass, of the streams of Quettah, and of the Urghundab, nearCandahar, unfortunately I relied too much on the preservative powers ofalcohol. Subsequently I took the additional precaution of preservingskins separately; and it is to these which amount to about 150 specimens, that the collections are chiefly limited. The collections contain thefish of the Cabul river, between its source near Sir-i-Chushme, andPeshawur, of the Helmund at an altitude of 11, 500 feet, of the Bameanriver, and of the Chenab, Ravee, and Sutledge. 

"This collection is particularly interesting, as showing that while theplants, quadrupeds, and birds of the southern and northern declivities ofthe Kohi-Baba, the continuation of the Hindoo-koosh, are much alike, yetthat a total difference exists in their fish. 

"Lord Keane, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, left me in complete possession ofmy own time, a great kindness due no doubt to the considerateinstructions of Lord Auckland, but for which I was not the less grateful. 

"I always found Sir Alexander Burnes very considerate and very willing toforward my views, and put me in possession of information. The late Dr. Lord also showed himself anxious to assist me in my duties, and verykindly asked me to join the Mission to Toorkistan, so suddenly put an endto by a suspected outbreak in Kohistan. 

"To Captain Macgregor I was under great obligations during the whole timeI continued in his district. Through his influence I was enabled toremain at the outer borders of Kaffiristan; and that deservedly warmrespect which he was held in by all the chiefs, would, I am confident, have gained me access into Kaffiristan, and towards Cashgur, at any lessunsettled period. I have seen Captain Macgregor in the closet and in thefield, and I cannot sufficiently express the respect with which I havehad cause to regard him in both situations. 

"Captain Sanders, of the Bengal Engineers, was always eager to swell mystock of materials, and during periods of occasional indisposition, Irelied almost entirely on him. Captain Sanders had also made for me acollection of plants between Candahar and Herat, which, I regret to say, was nearly entirely destroyed in crossing one of the rivers on thatroute. 

"It is to Dr. Ritchie, of the Bombay Medical Service, the companion ofthe justly celebrated Major Pottinger, during his return from Herat viaJhomunna, that the Botanical collections are mostly indebted. Dr. Ritchie not only placed unreservedly at my disposal a very interestingcollection made on that journey, but also a larger one made betweenPeshbolak and Peshawur. Both these are of considerable value, the oneshows that the Affghan forms prevail as far as Herat on both sides of theParopamisus, the other shows that Affghanistan, even in its hottestparts, has a majority of European forms. To the contents of thesecollections, notes of the localities are also added, enhancing theirvalue very considerably. I may be excused for adding, that Dr. Ritchieis acquainted with route surveying; in this and his knowledge of Botany, he possesses two valuable requisitions of a traveller. 

"Dr. Grant, of the Bombay Medical Service, formerly in Medical charge ofDr. Lord's Mission, liberally presented me with an excellent series ofspecimens from the valley of Syghan. 

"While I am beyond measure indebted for Zoological collections, toCaptain Hay, of the European Regiment. "

* * * * *

"The following notes addressed to Emanuel Fernandez, plant collector atMalacca, may perhaps be useful as containing instructions for thecollection and transmission of plants and seeds. They are perhaps worthyof insertion on other grounds, as an example of the painstaking, andpatient manner in which Mr. Griffith made his wishes known to the personsemployed by him in his pursuits. "

* * * * *

_To Emanuel Fernandez_. 

"I have received the open box of seeds, and the large case of plants, per_'Tenasserim_. ' The Ebool seeds were coming up, the dried plants are ingood order, and are of very good kinds. 

"Before you put in the palms and fruits with other collections, youshould see that they are quite dry, as otherwise they rot and injure thedried plants. When you send up more fruits, etc. Put them into openrattan baskets, so that they may be aired. 

"I send a list of palms and _rotans_ wanted very much, and two moreglazed cases for seeds: water the earth inside a day before closing theboxes and sending them off to Singapore. Whenever you get any goodseeds, dry them, and put them in a letter, directed to me. Seeds spoilby being kept, particularly if kept among wet fruits and dried plants. 

"If you can get flower-pots in Malacca buy two or three dozen, andwhenever you get seeds sow them in a pot, and keep them, until you haveenough pots filled to occupy one of the cases, then put mould between thepots, and sow more seeds in this mould, fasten the lid down and send offthe box to Singapore. "

* * * * *

 _May 30th_, 1843. 

"The cases of plants, etc. Have arrived: the fresh plants were nearly alldead. 

"You planted them very well, and cleverly, but some how or other the lidsof the boxes were nailed down, and so the plants died; because plantswill not live without light. 

"Some of the Ebool seeds have sprouted, one Lanjoot arrived alive, andalso the Pakoo Galowe. 

"I will send soon two glazed cases, in which you may put plants asbefore, and seeds of palms, or any good plants: sow them in the samemanner, and three or four days before the cases are despatched water theearth and plants moderately; then screw down the lid, when the plants, ifthey have rooted in the earth, will not die, because the glass admitslight to them. But to be sure of the plants having rooted, you must keepthe cases with you for three weeks, and if any plants are sickly, takethem out and put in others. 

"I send a list: when your next despatch arrives, I will increase yourpay. If you send plenty of seeds, etc. Often, that is once a month orsix weeks, I will keep you in my service even if I do not come back toMalacca. 

"I also send a box with a large bottle in it of spirits of wine, this isfor monkey cups (Nepenthes). Take the finest ones you can get of allsorts, and put them in the bottle, leaves and all, do not squeeze theminto the bottle, then send it to me. "

* * * * *

"I send two empty glazed cases for plants: when these reach you, fillthem with moist earth and plant in them ripe fresh seeds of the followingpalms * * * You need not wait until you have obtained all, but such onlyas you can get at once; but remember when you have got ripe seeds of anykind to sow them in the case. Take care the earth is not too wet. Theseeds you sent, sown in an open box, came up, and we have now six orseven live Ebools, etc. 

"Send me up some ripe fruits and seeds of the Epoo, those you sent werenot ripe. If you can get any ripe ones, also sow some with the palmseeds. "

* * * * *

 _Calcutta_: _March 26th_, 1844. 

"When you prepare Rotangs do not cut off the stalk of the leaf close tothe stem, but six inches from it, and do not cut off the thorns, but tieall up in mats or gunny bags: at the same time send the leaves of eachdried in paper like other plants and flowers, all with names writtenplainly in English and Malay. 

"Send live plants according as you receive boxes for them. "

* * * * *

"Whenever you find ripe fruits or seeds, dry them in the sun, and thensend them to the Post Office for despatch in paper bags. Sow palm seedsin open boxes as you did before, the Ebool having come up. "

* * * * *

 _January_ 14_th_, 1844. 

"The plants dried and living have been received, and do you great credit. The live plants particularly are in excellent order. I have sent twomore cases, when they reach you, fill them as you have done before, anddespatch them to me. I send some cards on which you can write the namesplainly, and tie them on the specimens. I will also send you a pocketEnglish Dictionary, and make you a present of the English and Portugueseone. "

PRIVATE JOURNALS OF WM. GRIFFITH, F. L. S. 

CHAPTER I. 

_When proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the__Examination of the Tea Plant_. 

_September_, _1835_. --We arrived at Pubna on the 9th of September, andleft it on the following morning, pursuing the course of the Pubna"Karee, " which is exceedingly tortuous and of about an average width of100 yards. On the evening of the 10th, we halted in the same river nearits termination. This morning we reached the "Beera, " into which thePubna Karee enters, and which at the mouth presents a vast expanse ofwater. Among the jheels which occur on every side, we noticed inabundance the _Tamarix dioica_. About noon we entered a narrow river, and in the evening a very narrow creek in which in two places weexperienced a great difficulty in getting the boats along. We noticed_Alpinia allughas_, _Nymphaea pubescens_, _Oxystelma esculentum_, _Apluda aristata_, in abundance. Up to this period the two mostconspicuous grasses continue to be _Saccharum spontaneum_, and_Andropogon muricatus_. 

_Sunday_, _13th_. --Arrived at Shiraz-gunge, about half-past 8 A. M. , fromwhich place the people say Jumalpore is a three days' journey. Thecountry through which we proceeded after leaving Shiraz-gunge is nothingbut a net-work of rivers, several of vast size, and low islands, occupiedalmost exclusively by _Saccharum spontaneum_, and in some placesabounding in _Typha elephantina_, in fruit. We halted at a smallvillage in the evening, where we procured _Centrostachys aquatica_. 

_September 14th_. --Came in sight of distant very elevated land, whichwe suppose to be the Kassiya Hills. This morning (15th) the Hills arevery plain, and bear nearly due north. The country through which wepassed yesterday presented no change whatever. _Andropogon muricatus_has now nearly left us; but the _Saccharum_ reaches to a large size, andis incredibly abundant. The natives use it for thatching their huts. Wewere visited by a heavy squall in the evening. 

_16th_. --Strong winds from an easterly direction. About noon wesucceeded in reaching a creek, in which we are completely sheltered. During our route here, we were employed in examining a new species of_Crotalaria_, and one of _Mitrasacme_! In pools close to us are_Damasonium indicum_, _Nymphaea caerulea_, _Myriophyllum__tetrandrum_, _Polygonum rivulare_, and a species of _Villarsia_, _V_. _cristata_. 

_19th_. --Left the creek, and arrived at Jumalpore about 2 P. M. ; thecantonment of which occupies the right-hand side of the Burrampooter, along the bank of which the officers' houses are situated; indeed this isthe only dry line about the place, as immediately inland there arenothing but jheels and rice fields. Jumalpore is about . 75 of a milefrom the junction of the Jenai with the Burrampooter or rather from thepoint of exit of the former river. 

_24th_. --We left the cantonment about 11 A. M. , and proceeded down theBurrampooter, which is a very uninteresting river, and appears more likea net-work of water and sand banks; opposite Jumalpore, the banks areabout a mile apart, but the distance between the extreme banks, leavingthe island opposite the cantonment out of the question, is much more. During the dry weather this part of the river is passable, and indeed isin some places nothing but a dry bed of sand, so that people walk acrossit. During our stay at the above place we met with many interesting andnew plants, among which a new species of _Villarsia_ occupied the mostprominent place. _Cyperaceae_, _Gramineae_, and aquatic _Scrophularineae_abound. _Solanum spirale_ occurs in abundance, and the trees commenceto be clothed with ferns. I observed only one _Epiphytica Orchidea_, probably an _Aerides_. 

The banks consist hitherto of nothing but sand, covered with _Saccharum__spontaneum_. _Andropogon muricatus_ is scarcely to be met with. 

_26th_. --We left Mymensing this morning, and proceeded down theBurrampooter, the banks of which still present for the most part nothingbut a succession of sandy banks covered with _Saccharum spontaneum_. The stream is not very rapid, and the river, owing to the numerousislands and banks, does not present so imposing an appearance as theGanges. For the last week strong easterly winds have prevailed. 

_27th_. --We entered the mouth of the Soormah, or, as the natives seem tocall it, the Barak. The water of this river or portion of the Megna? isremarkably clear, compared with that of the Ganges; as indeed is that ofthe Burrampooter. 

_30th_. --Some time after we entered the Soormah we apparently left itschannel, and up to this morning we have passed through a tract of jheelswith a few clear and very deep channels. The villages are built on smalleminences, and are entirely surrounded with water; they have the usualform, and those houses adjoining the water have fences of an _Arundo_, which they tell us are intended to keep out the grass. We have sinceentering these jheels passed through and between immense beds ofvegetation, formed principally of _Oplismenus_ (Panicum) _stagninus_, _Leersia_? _aristata_, which by-the-bye is a distinct genus. _Villarsia__cristata_, _Nymphaealotus_, Potamogeton, _Azolla Salvinii_, etc. Etc. The only novel things we have met with are _Ischaemum cuspidatum_, Roxb. (sui generis, ) and a small grass intermediate between Panicum andChamaeraphis. The wild form of _Oryza sativa_, _Panicum interruptum_and _Leersia_? _ciliaris_, Roxb. Also occur; the two former in abundance. On the more dry tracts, that occasionally though very rarely occur, _Andropogon muricatus_ appears. No _Saccharum_ presented itself sincethe 28th. High ground was visible yesterday evening, apparently at agreat distance. 

_October 1st_. --We have continued to pass through immense jheels: about6 A. M. We arrived at Hubbe-gunge, a large native town, situated on theBarak, which does not deserve the name of a river. The actual distancefrom this place to Chattuc is about 42 miles, and the high land in thatdirection was faintly visible for about 2 hours in the morning. Theground to the Eastward is losing the "Jheel" character, and appearsdensely wooded, and to the S. E. Rather high hills are visible. Altogetherthis land of jheels is very remarkable, particularly on account of thegreat depth of the water, which except in one point has hitherto alwaysexceeded 6 feet, and yet the water has fallen in all probability two orthree more. As the head quarters of tropical aquatic plants, it is wellworthy of attention; the profusion of _Leersia aristata_, Roxb. Isimmense, but this is almost exceeded by _Oplismenus stagninus_. 

_On the 3rd October_, we left the tract of jheels, and proceeded bysmall rivers, overhung with jungle and fine bamboos; on the 5th we re-entered the Soorma and proceeded down it to Chattuc, which is situated onthe left bank of the river, and which we reached in the afternoon. Duringour passage down the river we had beautiful views of the mountains, whichdo not however strike one with an idea of great height. We could plainlydistinguish two or three waterfalls shooting over scarped precipices. 

_Churra Punjee_, _October 30th_. --After a residence of 20 days here, I wrote to Mr. Solly, stating nothing particular, except that Bucklandiahas coniferous tissue, and that Podostemon will probably proveMonocotyledonous and allied to Pistiaceae. Our stay here has proved asource of great delight, and accumulation of botanical and geologicaltreasures. The cantonments of Churra are at an elevation of 4200 feetabove the sea, the native village being situated half way up the ascentwhich closes in the table-land on which the cantonment is situatedtowards the N. And W. , and it is hence about 300 feet higher. Thecountry immediately adjoining the cantonment is flat, with here and therea rounded hillock, destitute of any covering but grasses and a few low, half shrubby plants. To the Eastward there is a very deep and beautifulvalley, the west side of which in particular is densely covered withjungle, but this does not contain any large trees. The opposite side, fronting our bungalow, runs nearly N. And S. , presents a succession ofravines, and a most picturesque and varied surface. This valley, alongthe bottom of which as is usual a torrent runs, opens into the lowcountry at Terrya Ghat, which is situated at the foot of the ascent toChurra. Directly to the south, and at a distance of about two miles fromthe cantonments, there is another valley likewise occupied below by atorrent fed by the Moosmai falls. The commencement of all these valleys, that I have at least seen, is a sheer precipice, which often, andparticularly at Moosmai, assumes the form of a vast amphitheatre, overthe brink of which cascades, especially at Moosmai, fall in tolerableplenty. It is in these places that the immense depth of the sandstone isbest seen; the depth of the valley of Moosmai is, I am told, 1500 feet, the country above these precipices is generally level, and is in facttable-land. The most beautiful valley is at Maamloo, a village to theWestward of Churra, and about five miles distant. The approach to Churrais pretty enough, and gives the best view of the cantonment. The coalmines are to the Westward, and close to Churra. These I have not yetseen; the coal is of the very best description, it does not splinter, gives remarkably few ashes, affords an admirable fire and the best coke. Water-courses are plenty about Churra, but the body of water is at thisseason small, although it becomes considerable after a few hours rain; itis then that the great fall at Moosmai becomes really beautiful, thewater shooting over the precipice and falling into a bason about 150 feetbelow. By a succession of these falls, although of more limited height, it at length reaches the bottom of the valley. It is only on theprecipices about the fall that the Chamaerops appears to grow; at thefoot of a precipice a little to the right (going from Churra, ) a treefern grows, which I have Wallich's authority for stating to be Polypodgiganteum, a fern which occurred at Mahadeb, and which I have seen insomewhat similar situations at Mergui. All my excursions have beenconfined to this valley and to the water-courses immediately aroundChurra; once only have I quitted the table-land and proceeded to Maamloo, and yet in this very limited space the profusion of objects has been suchas to enable me only to embrace a very limited proportion. The aboveexcursion proved very rich. About half way to Maamloo I discovered asolitary tree fern (_Alsophila Brunoniana_, ) and to the left, and upthe broken sides of the calcareous cliffs that occur here and betweenMaamloo and Moosmai, a group of several magnificent specimens, of whichon the succeeding day we brought home three. We saw none above 30 feet, although the specimen in the British Museum from these hills measures 45. Their axis is of small diameter, and is nearly cylindrical, the vascularfascicles being disposed in covered bundles, often assuming the form of aUU near the circumference of the very dense cellular tissue of which theaxis is chiefly composed. Towards the base it is enveloped in an obliquedense mass of intermottled rigid fibres (roots) which, as they aredeveloped in the greatest extent, the nearer they approach the base, givethe trunk a conical form. Their growth is essentially endogenous, andwill probably be found when examined aborigine to approximate to that ofCycadeae, although these last are of a more exogenous than endogenousnature. Nothing however is known of the growth of Palms, Cycadeae, ortree ferns. I have above alluded to the calcareous rocks or cliffs;these are of the same formation with those that occur so abundantly onthe Tenasserim coast, although they are much more rich in vegetation. These I first saw at Terrya Ghat; like those of Burmah they abound incaves, and assume the most varied and picturesque forms; they appear tobe the head quarters of Cyrthandraceae, of which we found a noble specieswith the flower of a Martynia growing among the tree-ferns. They arevery rich in ferns and mosses, of which last near the tree-ferns Igathered four species of four genera without moving a foot. The cliffsin which, or at the foot of which the coal is found, bound the Churracantonments to the Westward. These are chiefly calcareous. The entranceto Churra lies between this and the precipice at Moosmai. Very fewanimals of any description are to be seen about Churra. I have seen onesmall species of deer, about half as large again as the mouse-deer ofMergui, and one young flying squirrel of a greyish black colour, with avery bushy tail. Leopards are, they say, not uncommon. Tigers do notgenerally come so high. Of birds, I mean about Churra, there are severalspecies of hawks, and their old companions crows and swallows; but I haveseen no sparrows, which is singular enough. There is one beautifulspecies of jay, with crimson-orange beak and legs, and a prettyking-fisher; but, except perhaps in the valleys, birds, I should say, arevery scarce. With respect to shooting, scarcely any is to be had; wood-cocks are found in the dells about Churra, but sparingly. I have seenonly one snipe and one quail. 

Regarding the natives, I have little to say. They are a stout-built, squat, big-legged hill tribe: the women in regard to shape being exactlylike their mates; and as these are decidedly ugly--somewhat tartarish-looking people, very dirty, and chew pawn to profusion--they can scarcelybe said to form a worthy portion of the gentler sex. They appear to behonest; but that is a quality which, from the example of their Europeanlords, they are said to be losing fast. They have no written character;every thing being transmitted by tradition, and performed by theinterchange of tokens. They drink like fish, and manufacture a bad kindof arrack, the pernicious effects of which were experienced by theEuropean invalids when the Sanatarium was in existence. They pay respectto their dead by the erection of a sort of kairns and large erect slabsof sandstone rounded off at the upper end: of these, I believe, they putup three or five to each friend, according to their means and, probably, rank. The Churra people cultivate nothing but a little cotton, andperhaps a species of Eleasine. They depend upon the plains for theirsupport and supplies, and this is good management since rice at TerryaGhat is sold at 70 or 80 seers a rupee. Their hire is, considering thecheapness of their food, very expensive; a man being rated at four annasa day, a woman at three, and a boy at two. I should add, that they haveno caste. 

The climate is certainly very cool and cold, the thermometer ranging fromabout 56 to 66 degrees in-doors at this time of the year. The rains aresaid to be the coldest part of the year; they are excessive, commencingin April and ceasing in October. It occasionally rains for fifteen orsixteen days in succession, and without intermission; and nine or teninches have been known to fall in twenty-four hours. Since we have beenhere, inclusive of this, we have had four days of wet weather, of whichthree were continued rain. Both were ushered in by the sudden irruptionof heavy mists from below, which soon spread over the country, obscuringevery thing. These sudden irruptions occur during the partial breakingup of the rain, during which time the valleys are completely choked upwith dense mists, the summits of the hills on the opposite side to thaton which one stands being alone visible. After the rains were over, inthe first instance, the plains, or rather the mass of haze hanging overthem, presented a most curious spectacle. 

The coldest weather we have yet experienced was at Maamloo, on the 27th, the thermometer at 8 P. M. Being at 52 degrees. This is remarkable, asMaamloo is rather below Churra. There is however a good deal of woodround the place. {7}

With regard to Botany, the chief vegetation about Churra, as indeed is atonce indicated by the appearance of the country, consists of grasses. Along the water-courses, which intersect this portion of the country, _Bucklandia populnea_, a species of Ternstraemia, Pandanus, Eugenia, Camellia, are found; while Compositae, Eriocaulon, and ferns abound inthe same places. The vegetation of the valleys is very rich and veryvaried; and, an affinity is indicated with the botany of China by theexistence of a species of Illicum, I. Khascanam, and severalTernstroemiaceae. The great orders are grasses, ferns, compositae. During a trip to Maamloo, a beautifully situated village on the brink ofthe table-land, we discovered abundance of the tree-fern _Alsophila__Brunoniana_, the highest of which measured 25 feet. The appearance ofthe tree is that of a palm. The flora surrounding these tree-ferns wefound to be exceedingly rich. Among Nepal ferns, I may mention_Anisadenia_, _Saxifraga ligulata_. 

_Interior of the Khasyah Mountains_. --On the 2nd, we left forSurureem; at which place we halted a day. Bucklandia here occurs, of avery large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet. It is a rugged-looking tree, many of the branches being decayed. There we observed the first_Rhododendrum arboreum_. Our next stage was to Moflong; during ourmarch thither, or rather mine, I had a fine view of the Himalayas, butnot upon the regular road to Moflong. The European forms certainlyincreased in number between Surureem and the above place. Two greatacquisitions occurred on the road; a new Crawfurdia, and a Podostemonwhich W. Has named after me. This I found in the clear stream adjoiningthe Bogapanee growing upon stones, and adhering to them very firmly. Itis on the hills about the Bogapanee that the firs first make theirappearance, but do not attain to any great size. The valley of theBogapanee is exceedingly deep, and both the descent and ascent are verydifficult. 

Moflong is a bleak exposed village and the bungalow or residence fortravellers very bad. The number of European forms we found to increaseconsiderably about this place. The only woods that occur are of fir, butthe trees are of no great size; their frequent occurrence, however, stamps a peculiar feature on the scenery. We here experienced nearlythree days of continued rain, and, as the place is bleak, we weremiserable enough. We left for Myrung on the 9th, and the greater and allthe first part of the long march was very uninteresting. At Mumbree, however, there is a decided improvement, and the scenery is very good. One here notices the occurrence of woods--of oaks, etc. , and their formreminded me somewhat of the woods of Buckinghamshire. No woods of firoccur; all the trees occurring isolatedly. I should mention that thecountry between Molee and Moflong is quite peculiar in geologicalstructure, abounding in Cyanite, the masses of which are of veryconsiderable size. I imagine that the vegetation farther on in thisdirection would be more rich in European forms than elsewhere, at leastbetween Churra and Mingklow. 

Myrung is certainly far superior in every point to any place that we haveyet seen; and, as the climate is peculiarly fine and the bungalow good, the degree of enjoyment is as great as can be expected. The features ofthe country are similar to those of Mumbree. The groves or woods arecomposed chiefly of oaks, intermixed with Magnolias, which attain a verylarge size. These forests seem all to have a northern aspect. Orchideaeabound in these woods, and so far as herbaceous forms go, Europeanvegetation is on the decrease. From the bungalow one has occasionally aremarkably fine view of the Himalayas, mountains intercepted by largetracts of very high land, probably Bootan. The coldest weather we haveexperienced here was when the thermometer sank to 46 degrees; even in themiddle of the day the sun is not oppressive. It is singular enough, thatthe first attempts, so to speak, at a Fauna occur here. The woods aboundwith small birds. I shot one squirrel, with a very short tail androunded head. Red deer (the Gyee of the Burmese) occur, though rarely. Two or three solitary snipes may be found during a day's excursion, andperhaps a brace of quail, which are nearly as large as Englishpartridges. Pheasants are reported to occur in the woods. I should add, that both here and at Nunklow snipe of a very large description, and ofthe habits of the solitary snipe, are found in small numbers. They arevery brown, as large as a wood-cock, and their cry is that of a commonsnipe. Lieutenant Townsend informs me, that these birds are a totallydistinct species. Lieutenant Vetch tells me, that the Khasiyas declarethat they are the females of the wood-cock, in other words, wood-hens, and that in March wood-cocks abound in the places with these wood-hens. He likewise informs me, that the only difference he could ascertain toexist between these birds and wood-cocks, consists in their having veryshort and thick legs. 

I have seen two of this particular description, but have never shot any. 

[View from Nunklow: p8. Jpg]

After Myrung one can speak much less in favour of these hills. Nunklowis a pretty spot, and commands a really magnificent view of theHimalayas, of the Bootan mountains, and of the plains of Assam. Altogether this view is the finest which, in my limited experience, Ihave ever seen: I did not however like Nunklow, nor do my wishes recur toit. {9} The route thither is pretty enough, and not fatiguing. I maymention Nunklow as the station of some fine trees, among which is aBetula, two AEsculi, oaks, etc. In abundance. The pine is in fine order, but not large. Much more cultivation is carried on in this portion ofthe hills than elsewhere, and paddy is cultivated apparently to someextent. The temperature is much warmer, and the air by no means sobracing as that of Myrung. Perhaps at this place the flora resemble thatof lower Himalaya more than other places we have yet seen. The marchfrom Nunklow to Nowgong is very long, and, as we started late, owingpartly to mismanagement and partly to the want of coolies, we were mostagreeably benighted in the jungle. The descent is very sudden andcommences at Nunklow; the valley, on the brink of which it is situated, being perhaps 2000 feet deep. It is in this valley or on its walls thatthe finest pines we have seen occur, but even here they do not attain agreater height than 60 feet, and perhaps a diameter of a foot or a footand a half. As Mr. Brown of the Sillet Light Infantry informed me mostcorrectly, many would make fine spars; but Mr. Cracroft's language in oneof the Journals of the Asiatic Society when describing these firs, seemsrather overwrought. During our march I picked up a pretty species ofSonerila. A small stream runs at the foot of the descent, by what nameit goes I know not. Near the Bustapanee, flowing along a valley abouttwo hours' walk from the last mentioned water. Wallich discoveredabundance of his favourite and really splendid Polypodium Wallichianum, which I may accuse with justice of being an additional reason for ourbenightment. The stream is really the only respectable river we haveseen, or rather the second one that can be called a torrent, the otherbeing the Bogapanee. It boils along, and the body of water is great, even at the season of the year at which we passed it. It has forcedenormous holes, frequently round, in the large masses of rock that formits bed, and then in and a few yards beyond the bridge of bamboos bywhich we crossed, it falls, they say, 70 feet into a fine bason, whichhowever is only partly visible from above. They who have been on theedges of this bason say that the fall is really fine; it certainly hasnot much of this when viewed from above, neither can it, I think, even inthe rains come up to Mr. Cracroft's description. Moosmai is, _apres__tout_ I will venture to say, the king of the falls between Terrya Ghatand Ranee Godown. On the farther side of this water, small trees ofCycas first make their appearance, but we had no time now or rather thento examine any thing. As the shades of evening lengthened we quickenedour paces, and at last when it became dark, came up with the coolies in amost rugged road, and when it was dark, after stumbling about a gooddeal, I made my way to the foot of the descent, and reached a smallstream, where we made preparations for a halt, and where we passed thenight, during which we were treated with a slight shower of rain. As theseason was far advanced we all escaped, scot-free, from fever, andreached the Bungalow called Nowgong about 10 o'clock next morning, wherewe spent the day. 

[The village of Nunklow: p11. Jpg]

From this time we were, I believe, all anxious to leave the hills, whichhad lost all their charms, although the vegetation was still moregigantic and interesting. But we were now confined to the road, which isvery good, all digressions being prevented by the thickness of thejungles, and then in some places swarms of wild elephants. These animalsappear most numerous about Onswye, near which there is a marshy placeliterally trodden up by them, and their tracks were so fresh that notraces of Wallich or his coolies could be identified, although they hadpreceded us only about half an hour. It was in this particular placethat I gathered a solitary specimen of _Butomus pygmaeus_. BeyondNowgong, saul first comes into view, and many trees attain a considerablesize. Some fine ferns and two beautiful Acanthaceae, I may mention, ascollected about that place. We reached Jyrung by an easy march the nextday; every step adding only to a greater renewal of acquaintance with oldfaces, or at least old plain plants. Between Jyrung and the foot of thehills, we fell in with _Henslowia glabra_ in fine flower: Wallich tookmany fine specimens, all of which were males. This species is, as wellas the former, liable to deceive one as to the sex of the plant; but allthe seeming ovaries beginning to enlarge are due to insect bites orpunctures. To conclude: at the foot of the hills we were embraced with_Marlea Begonifolia_, _Bauhinia purpurea_, etc. Almost exactly as atTerrya Ghat. Between the foot of these really delightful hills and RaneeGodown, I fell in with one plant only, deserving of mention, _Dischedia__Rafflesiana_; this is worthy of notice, as our Indian Asclipiferousspecies have not hitherto been found, I believe north of Moulmain, norotherwhere than that peninsula and the archipelago. From Ranee Godown wehad the pleasure of walking nineteen miles to Gowahatty, which place wereached on the 23rd November. 

All I can say in its favour is, that it is very cold in the mornings, always at this season cool; that it is very pretty, being situated on theBurrampooter, and surrounded with hills; that the women are good-looking, and the whole body of officers among the best. Of its botanical riches Ican only say, that in a short afternoon's excursion we found_Cardiopterus harnulosa_, or rather saw it, and a species of Apocyneain fruit, probably the same with one I have from Tenasserim, and which isremarkable for the very many fleshy alae of its fruit. Gowahatty isparticularly known as the station for _Cycas circinatis_, one finespecimen of which Captain Jenkins shewed us, and the height of which isperhaps 20 or 25 feet. 

It was dichotomous, but only once. The rings formed by the scars of thefoot stalks, as well as those of the fruit stalks, were most distinct onthe two branches only, and gave them a very rich and less elatedappearance. The examination of this specimen only strengthens me in myopinion derived chiefly from examination of those in the Botanic Gardens, that these rings which certainly afford the age of each branch, one beingadded of either sort every year, are not to be distinguished in the stembelow its division. So that after all, _Brongniart_ is only half-wrong, although he is ignorant of the saving clause. 

I may add, that we were on the hills about thirty-eight days, of whichseven and a half were rainy, a proportion of 1 in 5. 5. 

_On the 2nd December_, our party left Gowahatty for Suddiya, on themorning of the 4th I proceeded in advance in Captain Matthie's expresscanoe for Tezpoor, which place I reached on the evening of the 6th, andat which I met with a most kind reception from Captain Matthie, PrincipalAssistant to the Agent to the Governor General, and in Civil charge ofthe district of Durrung. Tezpoor possesses many advantages overGowahatty, from which place it is about 120 miles distant, that is, following the river. It is situated on the banks of what was once aportion of the Burrampooter, but which is now nothing but a nullah, nearly dry at the present season. It is a completely new place, {12}Captain Matthie having arrived here about a year since, at which time itwas a complete jungle. Some small hills run along the side of thenullah, on one of which Captain Matthie's house is situated. Theclearings have already reached to a considerable extent, and there aretwo good roads for buggies. The great advantage it has over Gowahattyconsists in its freedom from fogs, which evidently hug the Meekur hillson the opposite side of the Burrampooter, bearing about E. S. E. FromTezpoor. It is perhaps owing to the proximity of these hills thatNowgong until 10 A. M. Appears completely enveloped in fog, while allround Tezpoor it is completely clear. 

From this place the view of the Himalayas and of the intervening Bootanhills is very fine. The chain is of considerable extent, and presentsthree grand peaks, of which the most westerly one is the largest. Theydo not appear very distant, and are distinctly seen at this season at alltimes of the day. They are more soft and picturesque towards evening, atwhich time the different shades are better developed. The degrees ofascent of the Bootan hills are well shewn; the hills forming the lowestrange being of no considerable height. It is at once obvious, that theascent into Bootan from this place would occupy several days. 

[Captain Mathie's Cutcherry: p12. Jpg]

The view to the S. And S. S. W. Is barren enough, and is completely flat;the country presenting nothing whatever but high grass, with anoccasional peep of the river. That to the north is, owing to theHimalayas, very striking and picturesque. 

Cultivation is carried on to a great extent about Tezpoor, and thedistrict is populous, although few villages are to be seen, as they areall concealed among trees. Paddy is the principal grain cultivated, andthis is carried on in low places, which appear on a casual examination tohave been originally beds of rivers. Captain Matthie however tells me, that many of these have abrupt terminations and commencements, such mayhave been old jheels. Sursoo, opium, and sugar-cane are likewisecultivated, especially the former. 

The whole land indeed, with the exception of the rice-places and theevidently old beds of the Burrampooter, are much more elevated than theland round Gowahatty. Both Tezpoor and Durrung are consequently lessdamp, and more healthy than the above-mentioned place. In fact, as aresidence I would infinitely prefer Tezpoor to Gowahatty. With regard tothe shikar, (shooting) both large and small game abound. Tigers arefrequent as well as bears. Buffaloes are to be seen on the _churs_(islands) in large herds. Pea-fowl and jungle-fowl abound, as well aswater-fowl; floricans and partridges, both black and red, are by no meansunfrequent. 

_Upper Assam_, _Jan_. _15th_. --We arrived at Kujoo, a rather largevillage of Singfos, and within half a day's journey of which the tea isfound in its native state. This is the first Singfo village I have asyet seen, and is situated on the skirts of a plain of small extent, andcovered to all appearance by extensive grass jungles, among which treesare interspersed. The houses are not numerous, but they are of largesize, and are raised in the Burman fashion on piles from the ground. Within one, many families are accommodated. The people themselves arefair, much like the Burmese, but still quite distinct. The male dressresembles the Burmese much; the female is more distinct, consistingchiefly of a sort of _gown_; and whilst tattooing is confined to themales in Burma, it here appears to be indulged in chiefly by the ladies;all the legs I saw during the day, being ornamented with rings of tattoo. The men are a stout, rather fine race; free, easy, and independent, andgreat admirers of _grog_ in every form. 

During our journey hither, and indeed en route from Kujoo Ghat, we passedover a clay soil and through a dense jungle, comparable to which I haveseen but little. Our direction has been nearly south from the aboveplace. The jungle consisted chiefly of trees, here and there largepatches of bamboo or tobacco occurring: there was but little underwood. Among the trees the most gigantic was a species of Dipterocarpus, probably the same with that I have gathered on Pator hill, Mergui. Wepicked up likewise very large acorns with a depressed lamellated cap, andtwo fruits of Castanea, one probably the same with that from Myrung. Butof all the vegetation, that of ferns is the most luxuriant and mostvaried. 

_Jan_. _16th_. --This day we gave up to the examination of the tea in itsnative place. It occurs in a deep jungle to the south of the village, and at a distance of about three miles from it. Our route thither laythrough first a rather extensive grass jungle, then through a deepjungle. We crossed the Deboru once on our route; it is a mean andinsignificant stream. 

Nothing particular presents itself in the jungle until you approach thetea, on which you come very suddenly. This plant is limited to a smallextent, perhaps to 300 yards square, the principal direction being N. AndS. It grows in a part of the jungle where the soil is light and dryish, and throughout which, _ravinules_ are frequent, due, Mac. Tells me, tothe effect of rain dropping from the heavy over-shadowing foliage on alight soil. In addition to this, small mounds occur about the roots ofthe large trees; but chiefly around bamboos, which are by no meansunfrequent. This, however, is of common occurrence in all bamboojungles. The underwood consists chiefly of Rubeaceae, a small Leea, Cyrthandraceae and Filices, _Polypodium arboreum_, _Angiopteris__orassipes_, and a large Asplenium are common. Among the arbuscles are alarge leaved Tetranthera, a Myristica, Anonaceae, _Paederioidea__faetidissima_, foliis ternatis; stipulis apicee subulata, 3-fidis, etc. And among the forest trees are a vast Dipterocarpus, the same we met withen route to Kujoo, _Dillenia speciosa_, etc. Piper and Chloranthus arelikewise not uncommon. There is no peculiar feature connected with theexistence of the tea in such a place, and in such a limited extent. Wewere fortunate enough to find it both in flower and fruit, owing to itssite; its growth is tall and slender, and its crown at least that of thesmaller, very small and ill developed. Large trees are rare; in fact, they have been all cut down by the Singfos, who are like all othernatives excessively improvident. The largest we saw, and which Wallichfelled, was, including the crown, 43 feet in length. Small plants arevery common, although Bruce had already removed 30, 000. Mac. Thinks theygrow chiefly on the margins of the ravinules or hollows. Their leaveswere all large, of a very dark green, and varying from four to eightinches in length. The pith of the tree felled was excentric, the greaterdevelopment taking place as usual on the southern side; it was two and ahalf inches N. , three and a half S. ; but about 10 feet above the basethis excentricity was nearly doubled. The wood is very compact, and thetree apparently one of slow growth. The largest that Bruce has seen, andwhich he felled last year, was 29 cubits in length. The jungle was sothick that all general views as to its real extent, and the circumstanceslimiting it, must be very superficial. To the East the cessation of thelightness of the soil and of the hollows is very abrupt, and stronglyinfluences the tea, only a few small straggles being visible in thatdirection. The jungle here was choked with grasses, and the largeviscous Acanthaceae of which we have elsewhere en route seen suchabundance. The tree evidently, even in its large state, owes littlegratitude to the sun, at least for direct rays, none of which I shouldthink ever reach it. The Singfos however say, that it will only thrivein the shade. We halted after gathering a crop of leaves under a fineDillenia, which was loaded with its fruit. Here the Singfos demonstratedthe mode in which the tea is prepared among them. I must premise, however, that they use none but young leaves. They roasted or rathersemi-roasted the leaves in a large iron vessel, which must be quiteclean, stirring them up and rolling them in the hands during theroasting. When duly roasted, they expose them to the sun for three days;some to the dew alternately with the sun. It is then finally packed intobamboo chungas, into which it is tightly rammed. The ground on which itoccurs is somewhat raised above the plain adjoining the village, as wepassed over two hillocks on our route to the tea, and the descent did notevidently counterbalance the ascent. 

_Jan_. _17th_. --We arrived at Kujoo-doo this afternoon, having passedthrough a great extent of jungle, which I am sorry to say presented theusual features. We crossed the Deboro once during our march, and severaltributary streams which, as may be supposed, from the size of the_larger_ recipient river, are excessively insignificant. The soilthroughout, a good part seemed to be of clay. The only plants ofinterest we found were two Bambusae in flower, and two species ofMeniscium, and a _Polypodium venulis_ tertiariis simplicibus. A_Sarcopyramis Sonerilae_ was also found, but rather past flowering, andan Acrostichum? or Lomaria? We did not observe any ravinules or hollows, although mounds were by no means uncommon. 

_Jan_. _18th_. --We proceeded in a Southerly direction, and after marchingfor nearly seven hours arrived at, and encamped on, a largish plain, onwhich paddy had been extensively cultivated. The whole route lay througha vast and deep jungle, the road running partly on the side of an oldbund: part of our road was through very wet ground, part through ratherdry elevated woods, bamboos of two species occurred abundantly. We sawseveral vast specimens of Dipterocarpus, one which had been cut downmeasured from the base to first branch 110 feet. Ferns still continue inexcess. I gathered another species of _Sarcopyramis_; a _Goodyera_, _Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_ in flower, but rare; and an Apostasia not inflower. 

_Jan 19th_. --We reached Negrigam early in the forenoon although we didnot leave our ground before 10 A. M. The road to the village was prettygood. Negrigam is a largish village on the north bank of the BooreeDihing, which is here a considerable though not deep stream. This bankis at the site of the village very high. The population seemed to beconsiderable. To the south, large ranges of hills were visible, thefirst of which were close enough to admit of one's distinguishing them tobe wooded to the top. The inner ranges were lofty. We had somedifficulty in ascertaining where the tea was located, the accounts beingrather contradictory. At length we proceeded up the bed of a smallriver, Maumoo, which runs into the Booree Dihing close to the village:after wading along in the waters for two hours we arrived at a khet wherewe encamped. The direction being from Negrigam N. W. Along the banks ofthis stream. The Pavia I first observed at Silam Mookh, was abundant, and some of the specimens were very fine, the largest was a handsome, very shady tree, of perhaps thirty feet high. The only plant of interestwas _Gnetum scandens_. On a high land bank I gathered a species ofPolytrichum, and one of Bartramia. 

_January 20th_. --This morning we crossed the small streamlet Maumoo, ascended its rather high bank, and within a few yards from it came uponthe tea: which as we advanced farther into the jungle increased inabundance; in fact within a very few yards, several plants might beobserved. The plant was both in flower and ripe fruit, in one instancethe seeds had germinated while attached to the parent shrub. No largetrees were found, the generality being six or seven feet high; all abovethis height being straggling, slender, unhandsome shrubs: the leaves uponthe whole were, I think, smaller than those of the Kujoo plants. Withrespect to the plants with which it is here associated, I may observethat they were nearly the same with those of the Kujoo jungle, but herethere was nevertheless one striking difference, that the jungle was by nomeans so dark in consequence of the smaller size of the jungle trees. Theunderwood consisted chiefly of ferns, among which _Polipodium unitum_was very common, and a Lycopodium. Bamboos occurred here and there, although by no means so extensively as at Kujoo. 

_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_, and a new _Dicksonia_, _D_. _Griffithiana_, Wall. Were the plants of the greatest interest. With regard to thelimits of the tea, it is by all accounts of no very great extent; butthis is a point upon which it is difficult to say any thing decisive, inconsequence of the thickness of the jungle. The space on which we foundit may be said to be an elbow of the land, nearly surrounded by theManmoo river, on the opposite side of which, where we were encamped, itis reported not to grow. Within this space the greater part consists ofa gentle elevation or rather large mound. On this it is very abundant, as likewise along its sides, where the soil is looser, less sandy, andyellow (McClell. ); along the base of this I think it is less common, andthe soil is here more sandy, and much darker (McClell. ) We partlyascertained that it was limited to the west, in which direction we soonlost sight of it. To the south and eastward of the elbow of land it ismost common, but here it is, as I have said above, stopped by the river. 

The greatest diameter of the stem of any plant that I saw in this place, might be two or three inches, certainly not more. 

_Nadowar_, _Feb_. _17th_. --Our route from this village, at which we wereencamped, to the tea locality in the neighbouring forest, lay for thefirst time partly over paddy fields, the remainder over high groundcovered with the usual grasses, with here and there a low strip; all wasexcessively wet. We next traversed a considerable tract of tree jungle, perhaps for nearly a mile; this was a drier and higher soil than the riceground. On the northern flank of this, and close to the edge of thejungle we came to the tea, situated on a low strip of ground. 

This plant here occupies an extremely limited space, and its greatest, and indeed almost only extent, is from south to north. It is in one spotexcessively thick, and many of the plants had attained a considerablesize, but the largest had been cut down, when it was visited by peoplefrom Suddiya in search of tea some short time ago. It had just passedflowering; all the plants looked well, better I think than those ofKujoo. The soil was very much like that of the Kujoo and Negrigamjungles, and was remarkable for its great dryness and looseness, in spiteof the long continued and heavy rains. That near the surface was darkbrown, below yellow brown, and the deeper it was examined the more yellowit seemed to become. We satisfied ourselves that its depth extendedlower than two feet from the surface. The space the plant occupies inany numbers certainly does not exceed forty yards in length, by twenty-five in breadth. About fifty yards to the north several plants occurred, but the soil here was of a much darker tint, although it appeared to benearly as dry as the other. The accompanying diagram may give some ideaof its situation. 

_February 17th_. --We arrived at Rangagurrah, the capital of the Muttackcountry, and the residence of the Burra-seena Puttee, or Bengmara. Ourroute thither occupied us, inclusive of the day spent in examining thetea at Noadwar, five days. During the three first, we passed through alow country admirably, and almost exclusively, adapted for ricecultivation, and consequently abounding in wild wading birds and water-fowl. 

As we approached Rangagurrah the ground became higher, in addition towhich it is better drained. We crossed about two miles from Rangagurraha small rivulet, a tributary of the Deboro; no plants but one of muchinterest was detected _en route_. That one was a fine forest treeaffecting damp low places, apparently very limited in extent. It is anew genus, belonging to Hamemelideae, and we have called it _Sedgwickia__cerasifolia_. On our arrival at Rangagurrah we were met by the Burra-seena Puttee, 'Big warrior, ' who escorted us to the houses he had causedto be erected for us, and which were at a little distance from thevillage itself. During our association with him or with his country, hewas remarkably attentive and civil, and as he is an independent man hepleased me much. On the -- Feb. We reached Tingrei, a poor village aboutten miles to the S. E. Of Rangagurrah, situated on the west bank of therivulet of the same name, another tributary of the Deboroo. On the samemorning as the march was very short, we proceeded to examine the tea, andthe following day was likewise given up to another examination. The teahere may be characterised as dwarf, no stems that I saw exceeding fifteenfeet in height; it had just passed flowering. It occurs in greatabundance, and to much greater extent than in any of the places at whichwe had previously examined it. But here it is neither limited bypeculiarity of soil or such slight elevation as the place affords; itgrows indiscriminately on the higher ground where the soil is of abrownish yellow, and on which it attains a larger size than elsewhere, oron clumps occurring in low raviny ground and associated with finebamboos. This ground was intersected by a very tortuous dry nullah bed, on the banks of which tea was very abundant. On either side of thejungle in which it is found, extensive clearings occur, so that it isimpossible to say what its original extent may have been; I am inclinedto think, however that its limit was with the commencement of a smallclearing running to the N. W. Of a village situated on the west bank ofthe Tingrei, and that not much has been cut down. 

[The Himalaya from Rangagurrah: p19. Jpg]

The extent may be roughly estimated as follows, reckoning from theentrance into the jungle in a south easterly direction: the one in factof our route from the village to the tea. 

S. E. 180 yards, after which it disappears, but shews itself againsparingly about 100 yards further on, and in the same direction. 

To the S. Of this I found none, its direction being totally changed; itsgeneral direction being now, N. W. Or N. N. W. In which, and in about 200 yards from the place at whichit ceased towards the south, it becomes very abundant, and continues soin a

W. N. W. Course for about 220 yards. 

Thence it appears to be interrupted for the space of 80 or 100 yards. 

It then recommences a course

N. By W. For about 100 yards, when it is terminated by cultivated groundto the east, and low raviny ground to the west. 

200 yards to the north, and close to a small village, it is veryabundant, and at least its stumps with numerous shoots, occupy almost thewhole of a small clearing bounded on the N. E. By the rivulet Tingrei. Itmay be supposed to extend for a little distance into the contiguousjungle to the N. W. 

On the whole, it may be said to occupy a narrow strip of jungle, extending from the village Tingrei in a S. E. Direction about a . 25 of amile. I consider the plants here as finer than in any of the other teajungles, the crown being much better developed owing at least in someparts to the less denseness of the jungle. The fact of the shootsappearing from the bases of the stems which had been cut down in thesmall clearing above mentioned, gave us good opportunities of seeing theeffects of exposure to the sun. This they seemed to bear well, but theshoots were rather too much elongated, and the leaves had too much of ayellow tint to indicate that such was their natural situation. No partof the soil on which tea was found was like the soil of Nadowar orManmoo; still, although stiffer than the others, it was characterised bya certain lightness. 

The superstratum was very light, and brownish black, the remainderyellowish brown, the yellow tints as well as the stiffness increasingdownwards. The soil was here deeper than in any of the other sites. 

Many parts of the ground were excessively low, and very probablyinundated during the rains. 

From the fact of its occurring in such abundance in the small clearing tothe N. W. Of the village, I am induced to suppose that it had at someperiod extended down the large clearing which runs 200 yards to the southof the above village. 

The associated vegetation presented no peculiarities; several plants, with which we had not previously met, occurred. One, a Stauntonia, wasfound, which may be supposed from analogy to indicate a certain coldnessof climate. But on the other hand, it was associated with so manytropical forms that not much reliance can be placed on this isolatedfact. 

On the 25th we returned to Rangagurrah, where the elephants and dowaniers(_drivers_) were dismissed. On the 26th we commenced returning by theDeboroo, the descent of which occupied two days and a half. 

Here let me express my opinion that in cases like ours, where a set ofmen are deputed to examine countries, time spent on rivers is absolutelythrown away. Of course in many instances such must be the case, butwhere it is avoidable, marching, and especially returning by a differentroute, should be adopted. Rangagurrah, be it known, is only two days'march from Suddiyah in a direct line, yet we have been a month proceedingby the circuitous line of rivers between these places. 

CHAPTER II. 

_Journal of a trip to the Mishmee Mountains_, _from the__Debouching of the Lohit to about ten miles East of__the Ghalooms_. _Lat_. _27 degrees 50' to 28 degrees 10'__N_. ; _Long_. _95 degrees 20' to 96 degrees 40' E_. 

I left Suddiya on the morning of the 15th October 1836, and halted at NoaDihing Mookh, (river mouth) a place abounding in fish, and promisingexcellent sport both in fly and live-bait fishing. The temperature ofthe Noa Dihing, an indolent stream flowing over a flat, sandy plain, was79 degrees; that of the B. Pooter, which falls in large volume rapidlyfrom the mountains, was 67 degrees. Fish congregate in vast numbers atthe junction of rivers of different temperatures, and are there moreeasily captured than in other situations, a fact that ought to be bornein mind, whether for the mere object of sport or the more practicalpurpose of fisheries in India. 

The following day (16th) we passed Choonpoora, where the rapids commence, and where stones first appear; one rapid, a little above Choonpoora, issevere. There is a severe one also at Toranee Mookh, on which the Coppertemple is situated; and one at Tingalee Mookh, on which Lattow issituated. The river now commences to be more subdivided; there is butlittle sand deposited alone, but vast beds of sand and stones occurtogether. The banks are clothed with jungle, and are occasionallyskirted with tall grasses, but the _churs_ or islands disappear it may besaid with the sands, and are only formed in lower and more distant partsfrom the mountains, where the velocity of the current is less. Temperature at 6 A. M. 66 degrees, 4 P. M. 76 degrees, (water of B. Pooter64. 65, ) 7 P. M. 72 degrees. 

Buffaloes abundant, but I only saw a few. 

The most interesting plants were a Cyclocodon, Liriodendron, Sanicula: 32species were collected. 

_Oct_. _17th_. --Reached Karam Mookh, about noon. Rapids much increased, some very severe, especially that opposite Karam Mookh, which we crossedwithout accident, although as we crossed a confluence of two rapids, thewater in the middle being much agitated; it was a wonder that no canoeswere upset. The bed of the river is still more divided, the spotsbetween the streams being for the most part entirely composed of stones. The lowest temperature of the B. Pooter was 63 degrees. A severe butshort rapid occurs at Karam Mookh itself, the fall being very great, butthe body of water small. The water of this river is beautifully clear. Its temperature at the Mookh 72 degrees. The jungle extends down to bothedges of the water, and the stream is not divided into branches. Myguide in the evening disgusted me by asking how many days I intended tostop at the Koond before my return to Suddiya, when I had engaged himexpressly to go into the Mishmee hills, and not merely to Brama Koond, asthe above question implied. But such is the way in which our bestdesigns depending on native agency are often tampered with. Thermometerat 8 P. M. 64 degrees. Species of Conaria grow abundantly on the banks!

_Oct_. _18th_. --We are still in the Karam river. Reached about noon theKamptee village, Palampan, or rather its Ghat. This Karam river istortuous, generally shallow, with a more or less stony bed; it is nothingmore in fact than a succession of rapids, between each of which the slopeis very gentle, so that one makes good progress. Temperature at 6 A. M. 66 degrees in the canoe; but in the hut in which I slept, it is as low as60 degrees. The dews are very heavy, and the jungle, as before, comesdown to the edges of the water, but scarcely affords any marked feature. _Kydia calycina_ is common, as is likewise a large Mimoseous tree. There is apparently very little diminution in the volume of water, thoughseveral minor streams were passed between this and the Mookh. Liriodendron is becoming more frequent. The views of the mountains arevery varied; and that of the Koond defile or Chasm, very beautiful; water-falls seem to be distinctly visible down one hill or mountain, inparticular. The finest view however is on the Lohit, opposite DyarooMookh, at which place the three huge, ever snowy peaks, characteristic ofthe Mishmee portion of the mountains, are distinctly seen. 

Left the Ghat for the village which is situate on the Dea-soon orSimaree, which flows into the Tenga-panee, and which is said now to carryoff so much water from the Karam that this river ceases a short distanceabove this place to become navigable for boats like mine. The path wepursued ran in a S. E. Or S. S. E. Direction for about a mile; it is good, and leads through a thick jungle: the village contains probably fifteenhouses. The Gohain, or _chief_, is a most respectable-looking man, andof very fair complexion. His people are for the most part stout. Thewomen also of very fair complexion, with their hair tied in a large knoton the top of the head, in a peculiar way, putting one in mind of fatNorman damsels. Temperature in the boat to-day 76 degrees, the skybeautifully clear. The B. Pooter seems still the only river, thetemperature of which is always below that of the air. One interestingElaeocarpus occurred--Petal. Viridibus apice dentatis; calice griseoviridi, _vix valvato_. I may remark, that the aestivation of Kydia isscarcely valvate. I saw a, to me, new kingfisher and wood-pecker. Theblack and white kingfisher, _Dalcedo rudus_, is not found on the B. Pooter beyond the termination of the sand banks. 

_Oct_. _18th_--Temperature in my hut at 5. 5 A. M. Is 56 degrees, outsideit is 52. 5 degrees, that of the river water 63 degrees. We left about 8, and proceeded up the Karam, which presented nothing singular. The volumeof water is now less, and rapids are more frequent: heavy snow is visiblefrom a little above Palampan Ghat, where the river bends to thenorthward; and a little further on a fine view of the Koond occurs. TheChasm is bounded in the rear by the fine rugged peak so distinctly seenfrom Suddiya due east. About 11, we reached the Ghat, beyond whichboats, except of the smallest description, cannot pass; and about 1, started for the Mishmee village Jing-sha, situated on the Karam. Ourcourse was along the bed of the river, and nearly due east. Formerlyboats were able to reach the Ghat of the village, but the water hasbecome shallower, owing, they say, to a larger portion being carried offby the Dea-soon, which runs into the Tenga-panee. We reached the villageGhat about four in the afternoon, but our people arrived very littlebefore six o'clock. The march was tedious and difficult, owing to thenumerous stones which are strewed in the way: and the necessity forcrossing the river was so frequent, that all idea of shoes was quite outof the question. To increase the difficulty, the stones in the bed ofriver are very slippery, and as we crossed rapids, it frequently requiredsome care to prevent our falling. 

We were met by the Gam, or chief, before any signs of the village therewere visible. The population is small; the people fair, but begrimedwith dirt; the dress consists of a loose jacket without sleeves. Theprimary article of clothing is indeed so scanty, that the less one saysabout it the better. The women are decently clothed, and have generallyenormous calves, certainly bigger than those of the men: their favouriteornament seems to be a band of silver, broadest across their forehead, which encircles their head. This village is close to the hills, andwithin a day's journey of the Koond, at least for a Mishmee. OneAssamese slave is among the inhabitants, who was sold when a boy. A fewof the men have Singfo dhaos or swords, others miserable knives, and somethe usual spear so general with the tribes on this frontier. But ingeneral the weapons of these people are most insignificant. The view ofthe hills is not fine from this place; it is too close to see any ofgreat height, and they soon disappear to the westward. In the eveningthat of the Koond, which bears E. N. E. By N. Is fine, particularly onemountain, which is known at once by its numerous cascades or appearancesof water-falls, which, although they appear like streaks of white to theeye, are distinctly visible through a telescope. The bed of the Karam isalmost entirely stony, and the immediate banks are clothed with grass. The jungle is of the usual thick description. The Gam, whose name isJingsha, is a respectable looking man, fair in his dealings, and willingto oblige. They all have tobacco pipes. 

_Oct_. _19th_. --Halted to enable the people to bring up the baggage, andwe shall in all probability have to halt to-morrow. I paid a visit tothe Gam's house, Jingshi; it is to the S. E. Of the Ghat, and about a mileand a half distant from it. The houses are all detached, and almostburied in jungle. Jingsha's house is a good one, very long, and wellbuilt; he has only about five skulls. {24} _Mont_ was handed round tothe Mishmees in large bamboo cups. From our encampment, abundance ofclearances for cultivation are visible on the hills. Those to N. , S. , S. E. Are of some extent, and belong to a Mishmee Gam, Tapa. Some finetimber trees exist on the road to the village, and a very large Ficus: noparticular plants occur except a Chloranthus, fructibus albis, which isalso common towards Palampan. Thermometer at noon, in imperfect shade, 83 degrees. 

_Oct_. _20th_. --The temperature of the air at 5. 5 A. M. Was 57. 5 degrees. That of water, 60 degrees. I was obliged to halt again to enable therice to be brought up. To-day we gathered on the banks of the Karam, atree in fruit, Fol. Alterna, impari-pinnata, stipulis caducis. Cymicompositi dichotomi; calyce minuto, 4 dentato, reflexo; corolla coriacea, viridi, rotata; stamina 4, hypogyna, gynobasi, maxima; carpellis 4, aggregatis, 1, 3, fecundalis, globosis, atro-cyaneis, baccatis; stylislateralibus; semen 1, exalbumosum arbuscula mediocris; one Chrysobalanea?one Ochnacea?

Yesterday they brought me a beautiful snake, Collo gracillimo, colorepulchre fusco, maculis aterrimis, capite magno; {25} has all theappearance of being venomous. To-day we passed another place forcatching fish: the water is prevented from escaping, (except at the placewhere the current is naturally most violent, ) by a dam composed ofbamboos, supported by triangles, from the centre of which hang heavystones: the fish are prevented passing down except at the above spot, andhere they are received on a platform of bamboo: the stream is so strongthrough this point, that when once the fish have passed down they areunable to return. One of these fish-traps on a larger scale exists belowPalampan. 

The Karam debuts from the hills a little to the S. Of east of JingshaGhat: the chasm is very distinct. Temperature at 2 P. M. 87 degrees, atsunset 76 degrees, 8 P. M. 68 degrees. 

_Oct_. _21st_. --Left the Ghat about 9, and proceeded over the samedifficult ground down the Karam until we arrived at Laee Mookh. Thisoccupied about an hour; our course thence lay up the Laee, which runsnearly due east. The bed of the river throughout the lower part of itscourse is 60 or 70 yards across: the journey was as difficult as that onthe Karam. Towards 2 P. M. We were close to the hills, and the riverbecame contracted, not exceeding 30 or 40 yards across. It is here onlythat large rock masses are to be found, but the boulders are in no caseimmense. We arrived at the place of our encampment about 4 P. M. , theporters coming up much later. The march was in every respect mostfatiguing. Temperature about 6 A. M. 58 degrees, outside 57 degrees. Water 60 degrees. Temperature of Laee at sunset 66 degrees. Of the air71 degrees. 

_Oct_. _22nd_. --Cloudy: during the night we were much annoyed by heavygusts of wind sweeping down the river. Left our encampment at 7. 5, andstruck into the jungle, the porters still continuing along the course ofthe river; after crossing some rising ground we reached a path, which istolerably good. Our course lay about N. E. ; we crossed over some lowhills, and after marching for about an hour and a quarter, came upon theKoond Chasm, or great defile; of which, however, from the thickness ofthe jungle, we had no view. We then descended a very steep, but not veryhigh hill, and came upon the Koond; of which nothing is at first seen butlarge masses of rock strewed in every direction. We were accompanied bya number of Jingsha Gam's people, and in the evening we were visited byTapan Gam himself, with a train of followers. This man assumes thesovereignty of the Koond. We encamped immediately under the Faqueer'sRock, which is known to the Mishmees by the name "Taihloo Maplampoo. " Thesouth bank is wooded to its brink, but not very densely: it isexcessively steep, and in many places almost perpendicular. The stratacomposing it is partly limestone, lying at an angle of 45 degrees, and inmany places at a greater one. The scenery is picturesque and bold: oneither side of the river are hills rising abruptly to the height of a fewhundred feet, but the hills are continued longer on the north side. Fromthe Rock the river seems to run W. N. W. For a quarter of a mile, and thenbends to the S. W. The breadth of the bed is a good hundred yards, butthe stream at this season is confined to the fifty yards near the southbank, the remainder being occupied by rocks in situ, or boulders andsand: the edge of the N. Bank is occupied by stunted _Saccharum_. Theappearance of the water is characteristic, of a greyish green tinge, giving the impression of great depth. It is only here and there that itis white with foam, its general course being rather gentle. It is invarious places encroached upon more or less by the rocks forming its bed, some of which are quite perpendicular. A little to the west of theFaqueer's Rock there is an immense mass of rock in the bed of the river, between which and the south bank there is now very little water and nocurrent. The rocks are generally naked; here and there they arepartially clothed with Gramineae, and a Cyperaceous-looking plant, something like an Eriophorum. The river, a short distance beyond the Deo-panee, takes a bend to the north; at the point where it bends there is aconsiderable rapid. 

[Bramakhoond and Faqueer's Rock: p26. Jpg]

The Faqueer's Rock itself is a loose mass of rugged outline, about 50feet high: access to its summit is difficult to anybody but a Mishmee; itis, however, by no means impracticable. The path by which it may begained, leads from the eastward. At the summit is an insulated, rounded, rugged mass of rock, on which the faqueers sit. It is however thedescent by the path to the east which is difficult, and people generallychoose another path to the west. This rock is clothed with fernsepiphytical Orchideae, an Arundo, and a few stunted trees are very commonat its summit. Between it and the hill is another much smaller mass, andthe intervening spaces are occupied by angular masses of rock. Thesespaces both lead westward to that corner of the river into which the Deo-panee falls. Eastward they lead to the margin of the bank. 

The north face of the Faqueer's Rock is excavated into a hollow of theDeo Dowar. It has no resemblance to a Gothic ruin, which form is, Ibelieve, peculiar to calcareous rocks. It is this rock which, by itseastern extremity projecting into the water, forms the reservoirs intowhich the Deo-panee falls, or rather at this season runs; the placeresembles merely a sort of bay. The water-mark of floods visible on someof the rocks, is probably eight feet above that of this time of the year. The reservoir is completed by a projection from the rocks forming thesouth bank, but it is almost entirely abstracted from the stream. Thesouth bank immediately beyond this is extremely precipitous, and veryhigh. The Faqueer's Rock is three-peaked; two peaks can only be seenfrom the Deo-panee, the third is the low one to the west, the middle isthe highest, and is perforated: the eastern represents a sugar-loafappearance. Two distinct streams run into the reservoirs, the bed of oneforms the second defile before alluded to: this is very insignificant. The other occupies the corner of the bay, and can only be seen from a lowstation on the sand beneath: it is an attempt at a small water-fall. 

_Oct_. _23rd_. --To-day I have been employed in collecting plants. Nearlydue east of the Koond, and at a distance of about 40 yards, the face ofthe hill is perpendicular, and in some places overhanging; its extremityjuts out into the stream, which here flows with great violence; the banksare occupied by masses of rock strewed in every direction, resulting froma landslip of great size: some of these masses are enormous. The greaterportion of the slip is clothed with herbage and trees, so that it is ofsome age, or standing; but in one place over the river it is clean, as iffresh formed, and white-looking much like chalk. This cliff in manyparts is a dripping well, particularly in one extremity where a good dealof water falls. It is clothed with the Eriophorum, which hangs down inlong tufts; the moist parts with an Adiantum much like A. C. Veneris, abeautiful Pteris, a Pothos or Arum foliis pulchre nigro tinctis, and somemosses; B. Speciosa out of flower, and some Hepaticae, Ruta albiflora, etc. Between this and the Deo-panee a small stream enters the Lohit:following this up to some height, one arrives at a pretty water-fall;here it is inaccessible in this direction, but by following a branch ofthe stream to the west, one may arrive at the summit of the hill, fromwhich however no view is to be obtained. The summit is ridge-like, andexcessively sharp; the descent on either side almost precipitous. Ifound several fine ferns up this hill; at its base an Acer and fineEquisetum. 

[The Mori-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p27. Jpg]

The Koond is apparently formed by the Deo-panee and Mori-panee. In therains it must be a rather striking object, now however it is at thisseason, lost amidst the fine surrounding scenery. How the Faqueer's Rockand the rock between it and the Mori-panee were detached, is difficult tosay. It is evident, however, that formerly the two rivers were notunited to form the Koond as at present, but that they had each their ownchannels when the Faqueer's Rock must have stood between them. In factboth channels, in which water has flowed, still remain. My brokenThermometer pointed out the low temperature of the Lohit water, and 208degrees was the point at which water boiled in two experiments. Allattempts at passing along the river on this side would be vain, owing toa cliff which is totally impracticable. The Mishmees know of no rivuletcalled the Mtee; probably this has been mistaken for the Mishmee name forwater, _Mchee_. The way Wilcox went I am at a loss to ascertain; as hecould not have passed the Koond, he must have gone above it; although thehills are said to be impracticable for loaded coolies. 

_Oct_. _25th_. --The Koond is obviously little frequented. I leftsometime after the coolies, pursuing the path leading to Ghaloom's, whichextends to the eastward. An hour and a quarter brought me again to theLaee-panee, and three hours and a half to Laee Mookh: from this place toJingsha Ghat is scarcely an hour's walk. The day's journey occupiedabout five hours inclusive of stoppages: the distance is probably abouttwelve miles. I came to the determination of returning, owing to theknown difficulty of the route pursued by Wilcox, and the impossibility ofmaking a collection of grain. The Tapan Gam, or Lord of the Koond, particularly insisted on the impossibility of ordinary coolies going thisway, and as he offered men to bring up grain from the plains, I at onceacceded to his proposal of making a granary in his village. This man hadno delicacy in asking for presents: he at once said, "You must give gold, silver, and every thing in the calendar of presents to the Deo, " meaninghimself. As I found it impracticable to satisfy him, I sent him off witha small present, promising more when he should have amassed the grain. His brother, a tall, stout, and much more useful man, (as he does notrefuse to carry loads, ) on seeing me rub salt on a bird's skin, remarked, "What poor devils we are! Bird's skins with salt supply the Sahibs withfood, while we can't get a morsel. " They promised to take me all overthe country, and to be my slaves, if I would point out to them where saltis to be found. 

[The Deo-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p28. Jpg]

I saw nothing particular in the woods. I picked up the fruit of aMagnolia and Castanea, and observed an arborescent Leea. Some of thetimber is fine. A large Acrotirchea abounds between Laee and the Koond, as well as Chloranthus. Near the Laee a climber, the base of whose stemis elephantopoid and enormous considering the slender stem, is abundant. I could not get any of the leaves. At the Koond, Buddleia Neemda, aPrunus, etc. Occur. Caelogyne polleniis 4 obovatis, faciebusincumbentibus complanates materie pulverea, mediocri. Dundoons arerather troublesome; they are flies, and nearly as large as an ordinaryhouse fly: their proboscis is large, and leaves spots of extravasatedblood where they bite, nearly of the size of an ordinary pin's head. 

_Oct_. _27th_. --My people brought me in a beautiful snake, _Coluber__porphyraceus_, ventre albo, caeterum pulchre coccineo-badio, capitelineis nigris tribus quarum centralis brevior, dorso lineis nigris duabuspostea gradatim evanescentibus, lineis circularibus minus conspicuis, iridibus carneis. {29a}

_Oct_. _28th_. --Yesterday evening two elephants arrived with grain, sothat I have every prospect of being fairly on my way in a day or two. Nothing worth seeing has occurred, except a man who by some accident hadthe lobe of his ear torn, and had the fragments stitched together withsilver wire. 

_Oct_. _31st_. --Halted at the Laee-panee, and gathered an Oberonea, andspecimens of fish. {29b}

_Nov_. _1st_. --Dirty weather; rain looking much as if it were going tocontinue for several days. There is a small drupaceous fruit found hereand at Beesa, the Singfo name of which is Let-tan-shee; it is the produceof a large tree probably the fruit of a Chrysobalanus, testibus stylo_laterali_, stam, perigynis: cotyledonibus crispatis. The flavour isacid, rather pleasant, and somewhat terebinthinaceous. 

_Nov_. _2nd_. --I thought it best to set off, although it was rainingheavily. Our course lay in an E. Direction up the Karam for about twohours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavyjungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it nextdiverged again about 2 P. M. , when we ascended a small hill; it continuedthence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in anoblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found ourhalting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, sevenhours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute thedistance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboojungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeae making theirappearance; _Camellia axillaris_ and some fine Acanthacea: the bestplant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day wasfine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived. 

_Nov_. _3rd_. --Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite ourencampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep. To the N. W. Of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to thistime; on it two or three Phaeniceous palms may be found. Pandanus stilloccurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towardsbase. 

_Nov_. _4th_. --Left Laee-panee at 9. 5 A. M. , and reached the encampment at3. 5 P. M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the lastencampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. Thefirst hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day'sjourney consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult pathimaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they windround these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall. About 1 P. M. We reached two or three houses constituting a village. 

From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. Pooter nearits exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered withjungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies veryannoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichiacontinues; _Wulfenia obliqua_, and a Companula were the best. At ourhalting place I found the fruits of _Sedgwickia_ in abundance. Passedtwo or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or ratherits very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, butthe acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; theflowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminisviridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis praesenti transverse, antheris syngenesis. _Sarcocordalis_, common. 

_Nov_. _5th_. --Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive _kheties_(cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P. M. This place iscalled Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: wepassed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave usa fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, {31} S. E. Of Upper Assam, whichreach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. Theexact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicateSaccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improvinggreatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceae occurring. I alsonoticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and afine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Redmountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance ofwater-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: thebrink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable spacecovered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45degrees. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have theidea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of acertain size with large stones, some hills are again free from thischarm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stoneswhenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear toget dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two highpeaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichiacontinues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are eitherof rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to takecare of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latteris probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanuscontinues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma-thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling isthe name of the place; a large mountain bearing N. N. E. , isSun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, asmy site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. Isentirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N. N. E. , by Sun-jong-thaya;no B. Pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom's house. The snow collects onthe Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on thedeclivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although atgreat distances from the village, are called _Yeu_. 

_Nov_. _6th_. --We arrived at our halting place after a march of sevenhours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughoutthe whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worseroad, if road it may be called--part of it lay over places where a falsestep or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly onthe B. Pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, weprepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance wehad to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side wasimpracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a mostdifficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the riversixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficultand dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at thesame time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics ofMishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble ofcutting down underwood. 

We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we havetravelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The streamof the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. Ithas the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in someplaces in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm, very like U. Virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I alsogathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of theLohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and isperpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than anyof the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewedon the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for theindentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a goodMarchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanusstill continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera. Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliffalmost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibresand _reti_ of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which itlikewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is ona fine bed of sand. 

_Nov_. _7th_. --Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold inthe morning; we left at 9 A. M. And arrived at our encampment about 12P. M. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in factconsisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficultywas increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one couldpass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. Wecame to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time inbuilding a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some placesfordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifullyclear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it, although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half aminute. _Throughout the whole time_ the Mishmees use their legsand arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclinationcaused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection, about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river, and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after somedelay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung downto its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at itsjunction there is a large bay formed, on the N. Side of which is a finesand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. And S. , and is excessivelyviolent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery ispretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is themost romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We fordedthe bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are tofollow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered somefine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. TheTapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path, the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side ofthe bay. {33} The course of the river, he says, has since changed by theoccurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate. 

_Nov_. _8th_. --The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, theascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit wecould see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We thenproceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the _O_. Rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerableheight, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom's old dwelling. Thesituation was delightful; to the N. E. , a high range was visible, which iscovered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standingout, in fine relief. To the N. Was a noble peak bare at its summit, onwhich snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked outwith numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. Again the Tid-ding mightbe seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving inheight and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o'clock, ourmarch having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a smallstream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom's former house stood, called the Dhaloom Basee. 

I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few lowelevations until we reached Ghaloom's, which we did about 2 P. M. A smallspot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which weerected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing tothe death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthinessof the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the placehe has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since hisremoval. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khoshavisited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance issomewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just asdirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face. Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khoshahimself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted, he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present. Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and thatWilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botanyconsisted of some fine Cyrtandraceae, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. Oneof these Cyrtandraceae is very singular: the runners are long, producingone stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower. Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one, bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquae; Pandanus Bambusacontinue. The fine Quercus is common, _Megala_, _Podomolia_, Triumfetta, Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several otherlow tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentiapostice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla?

_Nov_. _9th_. --Halted. Went to the suspension bridge over the Lohit, which is about 60 yards across, or double the length of the one wecrossed on the 7th. The passage by Mishmees takes two, or two minutesand a half, requiring continued exertion the whole time, both by handsand feet, as above described. Both banks are very steep, yet the nativesare so confident of safety, that of this bridge only one cane istrustworthy. Bathed in the river, which is very cold and deep, butcomparatively quiet. 

_Nov_. _10th_. --Went to the Lohit, gathered Cymbidium giganteum, two orthree ferns, and a Rafflesia in its several stages. I have not howeveryet seen the perfectly expanded flower, the natives do not know it, although it must be a sufficiently striking object, the alabastri beforeexpansion are about the size of an orange. Went to Ghaloom's house, which is of great length, built of bamboos, raised high from the ground, divided into about twelve compartments, and containing 100 men, women, and children. 

_Nov_. _11th_. --Left for Khosha Gams; crossed the Lohit on a raft, andleft its banks at noon. Followed the river for some distance, and thendiverged towards the N. W. And reached Khosha at 3 P. M. , the march owingto the heat was very fatiguing. Found very few plants; noticed a flowerof a Ternstroemiacea nearly allied to the genus Camellia, cor. Rotat. Lacin. Reflexis, albis fauce carnea. Stam. 00, epipet. Anther. Erectis-apice dehiscent, and of a large Hibiscus; the Caelogyne of the Koond wasalso found. Two species of Castaneae occur in these woods, one with verystout thorns to its cupula, and not eatable fruit; the other has longslender prickles, and its fruit about the size of an acorn, is eatable, and not at all disagreeable. On all the hills of any height with grassytops Compositae are among the most striking forms. Areca parvacontinues, Pentaptera, and Fici continue. Saccharum Megala very abundantand fine. Cupuliferae are becoming more abundant. The roofs of thehouses which are built of bamboo, are covered with the leaves of theMarantaceous genus--capitulis densis lateralibus _culmis_ I-foliosis. Buddleia N'eemda and Callicarpa continue. 

Want of means forms the only limit to the number of wives of a Mishmee. Arich man who has at his disposal numerous cattle, etc, will give 20_mithuns_; {35} but the wife appears to bring with her slaves, etc. As areturn. A poor man will get a wife for a pig. Whatever the number ofwives may be, each will have a separate khetee, (field) and each kheteehas a separate granary. All the wives live in the same house; in fact, one house forms the village. Theft is punished by a fine inflicted by ameeting of all the Gams; if the fine is not paid, or the offender refusesto pay, he is slain in a general attack. Murder is punished in the sameway, but by a heavier fine: adultery against the consent of the husband, or at least elopement, is punished by death; if with the consent of thehusband, the delinquent is fined. There appears to be no regular law ofsuccession: the favourite son succeeding without reference to age. 

_Nov_. _12th_. --I went out for plants, and descended to the Paeenrivulet, which is of small size: followed up its course some way, andthen returned over a low hill to Khosha's. The guide who was somedistance behind, came up with a Rafflesia bud. I returned with him, andsaw it to perfection; he likewise succeeded in tracing the roots to agigantic Cissus, the fruit of which I have before observed is eatable, and not unlike a greengage. I returned home loaded with this undescribedgenus: I found likewise a fine Buddleia, and Menispermum, with some rareCompositae, among which was an arborescent Eupatorium and a giganticthistle, a Prunus in flower and fruit, and a neat Liparis, Calamus, Tree-fern, Tupistra, Pandanus, were likewise observed, and a beautifulViburnum, Corol sterilibus, 4 phyllis, foliis niveis carneo venosis:petal fertil calyptratis, deciduis, intus caeruleo tinctis: staminibuscyaneis, ovariis pallide caeruleis, stigmatib. Carnosis. 

_Nov_. _13th_. --Opposite Khosha's, or rather his granaries to the E. Is ahigh mountain excessively steep, only partially clothed with trees, andwith stunted ones at its summit, which in December and the colder monthsis covered with snow: this they call Thaya-thro. 

Khosha positively refuses to take me any farther into the interior, andKrisong begs that I won't come and see him. It is obvious that they areunder great fear of other tribes. Khosha says, he should be attacked byall the Mishoos or Mizhoos, were he to conduct me any farther now, andthat very probably the Lamas would attack him likewise. He says the onlychance of success in penetrating to Lama, is to send previously a presentof salt, (about a seer) to all the chiefs, and request their leave, without which preparatory donation, they would cut up any messengers hemight send. He offers to do this at any time, and to let me know theresult. He declined taking me to the Chibong Gam, a few days' journey upthe Diree, although the man is a relation of his own, and a DeboroMishmee. It is obvious that there is no chance of getting further atpresent, nor would it be fair even if one could bribe them. He says noreliance whatever is to be placed on Rooling, the Mizhoo who deceivedWilcox, and whom he represents to be an underhand person. I tried toovercome his scruples by assuring him that I only wanted to go as far asRooling, but he declines taking me. He says I may go any where to thewest of this, but to the north he dare not conduct me. I shall thereforego to Premsong to-morrow, and if that is not a favourable place, returnforthwith to Ghaloom's, and thence to Deeling to botanise on Thuma-thaya. 

_Nov_. _14th_. --Proceeded to Premsong's, which we reached in less thantwo hours. Our march was in a westerly direction across a hill of someelevation: the remainder of it was over kheties and level ground. Theplants evidently increase in interest as we advance in the interior, Compositae and Labiatae being most numerous. A large tree occurs notuncommonly, which is either a Birch or a Prunus, most probably from thevenation of its leaves, the latter; the bark is exactly like that of aBirch. Close to Premsong's I gathered a Clematis, Valerian and a fineBotrychium, a Carex and a Cuscuta. The mountain on the base of whichPremsong's house is situated, is a very high one; it is the one that isso striking from Ghaloom's old site: it is named Laimplan-thaya; itssummit, which is a high peak, is very rugged, partially clothed withvegetation, in which, as in all the others of the same height autumnaltints are very distinct. Thai-ka-thaya is a smaller peak to the S. S. W. Of Premsong's house. One of my Mishmee Dowaniers tells me that theMishmee (Coptis) teeta Khosha gave me last evening, is cultivated nearhis native place; its flower buds are just forming and are enclosed inovate concave squamae. The leaves are of a lively green, not unlikethose of some ferns, but at once to be distinguished by the venation; itis very evident that the Mishmees know nothing about the period of itsflowering, as they told me it flowered in the rains, at the same time asthe _dhak_ flowers in Assam; the radicles are numerous, tawny yellowish, the rhizomata are rugged tortuous, the bark and pith are of yellow orangecolour, the woody system gamboge: this is the same in the petioles: ittinges the saliva yellow. It is a pure intense bitter of somepermanence, but without aroma: it is dried over the fire, the dryingbeing repeated three times. Judging from it in its fresh state, the testof its being recently and well dried is the permanence of the colors. The_Bee_ flowers during the rains: its flower, (_on dit_) is white andsmall; they pretend that it is very dangerous to touch, causing greatirritation; both Coptis teeta, and Bee, are found on high hills on whichthere is now snow; one of them, the Ummpanee or Moochee, is accessiblefrom hence in three days. 

The Mishmee name for the Teeta, is _Yoatzhee_; of Bee, _Th'wee_; _Ghe_-_on_ is the Mishmee name for the smelling root, which the Assamese callGertheon. The smell of this is a compound of Valeriana and Pastinaca; itis decidedly aromatic, and not at all disagreeable, it is white insideand abounds in pith, but has scarcely any taste. 

Yesterday evening I visited Khosha's house, which is of immense length, and considerably longer, though not so high from the ground as Ghaloom's:it is divided into upwards of twenty apartments, on the right hand sideof the passage are ranged the skulls of the cattle Khosha has killed, including deer and pigs; on the other side are the domestic utensils, thecentre of the floor is occupied by a square earthen space for fire-place:the bamboos, of which the floor is composed being cut away. From thecentre of each room over the fire-place, hangs a square ratan sort oftray, from which they hang their meat or any thing requiring smoke; theircooking utensils are, I believe, confined to one square stone vessel, which appears to answer its purpose remarkably well. The women appear tohave no shame; they expose their breasts openly, which from their dirtyhabits by no means correspond with the exalted character of the sex. Onhills to the N. E. Of Khosha's first residence, forests are very visible, descending far down the sides. 

On an open spot a little distance from Premsong's, there is a fine viewof the course of the Lohit, and of the more remote (now) snowy ranges. The hills beyond this exactly answer to Wilcox's description, being veryhigh, and all descending as it were unbroken to the Lohit. 

Went out for about two hours over a tolerably level portion of the hill, covered with Artemesia; found abundance of interesting plants, Crawfurdiacampanulacea, a Clematis, Acer, Prunus, Camellia axillaris, Cyathea, Myrica, Rhus, Sedgwickia, Polygala, Galium: and a beautiful very fragrantclimbing Composita. 

Great part of the side of the hill is covered with a small hard bamboo, which forms excellent walking sticks. An Urticea foliis peltatis, wasamong the novelties. The Paeen Panee forms the nearest ravine. ThePolygonum, paniculis densissimis, is a certain indication of someelevation. I observed Calamus, and Torenia asiatica. There is likewisea large Mimoseous plant, which we found in fruit. 

_Nov_. _15th_. --Spent the greater part of the day attempting to reach thesummit of Laim-planj-thaya, but my guide did not know the way. Weascended for upwards of four hours, slowly of course, but were still along way from its summit. The face of the mountain is entirely occupiedby woods, with but little underwood. Found abundance of plants, chieflyferns, only saw 4 Orchideae, of which 2 were in flower. The noveltieswere a Polygonatum, Camellia, and Quercus lamellata. 

I observed no less than 5 Araliaceae, of which I succeeded in getting 4:an Acer, probably that from Brahma Koond: and several _incertae_. NearPremsong's the varnish tree was shewn to me, it is obviously a species ofRhus. The Assamese name of the varnish plant is _Ahametta Gas_. Itook specimens of it in fruit. 

They obtain the juice by ringing, and the only two specimens I observedwere evidently well drained: no preparation is required for the varnish;and it is applied one day, the next day is hard; it has a fine polish, and is of an intense black. It is the same probably with two small treesI had previously seen in Capt. Charlton's garden at Suddyah. Kydiacontinues; a fine Palm, caudex 8-10-pedali; it probably belongs to thegenus Wallichia? Camellia is only found towards the top; the Polygonatumalso does not descend far. I saw also species of an undescribedBucklandia, likewise one specimen which had been damaged: the capitulipluriflori. Towards the middle a small bamboo becomes plentiful; thelower joints, from which no branches proceed, are armed with averticillus of spines. I did not observe Pandanus, but it is used forconstructing large mats: Megala continues, but not up the hill. 

_Nov_. _16th_. --Attempted to ascend Laim-planj-thaya by the Paeen rivuletwhich proceeds from the centre, but after proceeding about half an hourwe found our progress effectually stopped by a water-fall, the sides ofthe stream being so precipitous as to render all idea of clambering over, or proceeding round ridiculous. Gathered two or three rare ferns, and apretty Lobelia. On our return through the open grassy parts nearPremsong's, we found a fine Choripetalum and Crawfurdia campanulacea, beautifully in flower; the flower is rose-coloured. Anthistiriaarundinacea, the same Sambucus found at Suddya, Solanum 10 dentatum, aKydia and Torenia continue. 

_Nov_. _17th_. --Left and returned to Khosha's, as we were all out ofrice, and it was impossible to get anything in Premsong's absence. Themarch on return occupied us about two hours, but the path was soexcessively slippery, owing to the grass not being cut away on eitherside and to the dry weather and heat, that our progress was very slow. Noticed Lactuca exalata and a Rottlera on the road; more snow has fallenon the hills E. N. E. The descent on returning, owing to the slipperystate of the roads, was more fatiguing than the ascent. Hedychiumangustifolium I also observed on the road. 

I have as yet observed the following grains used by the Mishmees. 1st, Oriza, rice; variety of this called _Ahoo Da_; 2nd, a species ofEleusine, _Bobosa_; 3rd, Zea Mays, _Gorm_ dan; 4th, Panicum Paniculanutanti, densa clavata. 5th, _Konee_, Chenapodium sp. Panicula simili. 

The Mishmee names are as follow: _Dan-khai_ rice; _khai hoo_, _bobosa_, _Mdo_. -_zea_, _or Maize_, _Ma-bon-konee-yo_Chenopodium; _Thenna_, a kind of Polygonum; _Hubra-Aloo_, _Ghee-kuchoo-shoom_, Sweet potato; _Gaihwan_, Plantain; _Puhee__Dhoonhwa_, Tobacco. They likewise cultivate Sesamum. 

_Nov_. _18th_. --Found more of the Rafflesiacea on low hills along thePaeen; it was attached to the roots of the same species of Cissus, onwhich it was found before. {40} I also gathered a Euonymus and a fineEngelhardtia. The hairs of the fruits of Engelhardtia create adisagreeable itching. All the Mishmees decline shewing me the road afoot in advance of this place. I tried every way I could think of, toovercome their objections, but to no purpose. They have so little regardfor truth, that one cannot rely much on what they say: I begin to thinkthat it is all owing to the Tapan Gam, who I suspected was insincere inhis professions. 

_Nov_. _19th_. --Yesterday evening Premsong arrived, he is a man about 35, the best looking of all the Gams: but has rather a cunning Jewish face. The brandy I gave him made him at first wonderfully obliging, for heseemed disposed to enter into my views. This morning however he camewith Khosha and Tapan, by whom it was at once obvious that he has beenoverruled; not only will he not take me to the Lama _Dais_ (plains, ) buthe won't even shew me the road to Truesong's, a Digaroo, whose village isonly distant about five days' journey. Premsong I know wishes to go, induced by the promise of 200 Rs. But he is afraid of incurring thedispleasure of Khosha, etc. I shall therefore return towards Deeling, and devote a few days to botanising on Thuma-thaya. 

_Nov_. _20th_. --Returned to Ghaloom's: gathered the Martynia, finely inflower, and observed the Rafflesiacea along the banks of the Lohit. 

_Nov_. _21st_. --Halted at Ghaloom's, the Rafflesiacea is found all about, anth. Bilocular, apice poro-gemino dehiscent, pollen simplex, materieviscosa cohaerenti, ovula antitropa, tegumento unico. Made everyarrangement with Premsong. According to this Gam we are to go up theDiree, and then cross over high mountains, leaving the Lohit entirely. Hesays the Lamas wear trowsers, socks and shoes, and that they dress theirhair _a la mode Chinoise_; their houses are built on posts, andraised from the ground: they erect forts like the Chinese, and haveplenty of fire-locks. They have also abundance of cattle, consisting ofabout seven kinds, but no _Mithuns_; and three sorts of Horses, whichalone they use as beasts of burden. Their staple food is Ahoodan. The_Mithun_ of the Mishmees appears to me intermediate to a certain degreebetween the Bison and the wild Bull; their head is very fine, and as wellas the horns that of a Bull, but their neck and body have, so to say, thesame awkward conformation as those of the buffalo. I have not seen alarge living one; the largest head I saw was three feet from tip to tipof the horns, the diameter of the forehead being probably about one-thirdof the above. 

_Nov_. _22nd_. --Returned to Loong Mockh. I cannot reconcile Wilcox'sdescription of Ghaloom's old site with the reality, because the sceneryis decidedly fine, embracing the Tidding, and the (in comparison with thenear surrounding hills) gigantic Laim-planj-thaya, which from thispresents the appearance of a vast cone with a peaked summit. Premsong'svillage is obviously at a considerable elevation. Found anotherAcrostichum, a Bolbophyllum, a rare Aristolochia foliis palmatis, 7lobis, subtus glaucis; sapor peracerbus, floribus _siphonicis_. TheHuttaya I have not seen: it occurs at a greater distance in the mountainsthan I have been. In addition to the plants I have gathered, Aspleniumnidus it very common. Tradescantia and Camelina both occur; Ricinus alsooccurs, the Mishmees do not however put it to any use; Melica latifoliais common on some of the hills. Anthistiria arundinacea occurs inabundance. Likewise a small Areca and Chloranthus. 

It is at Ghaloom's old site that these hills commence putting on aninteresting appearance, those previously seen, excepting however Thuma-thaya, being entirely covered with tree jungle; but beyond this site, thelower spaces unoccupied by jungle become much more numerous. The Mishmeeword for bitter, is _Khar_. Query--why should not the name of the plantCoptis teeta, be changed to Coptis amara, although the species of thegenus Coptis are probably all bitter? Sauraussa and Bombax both occur atGhaloom's, as well as Pentaptera; Sesamum is used for oil. 

I should have mentioned the top of the hill, surmounted in goingimmediately from Loong Panee towards Ghaloom's, is occupied almostentirely by a species of Fraxinus. 

On my arrival at Ghaloom's on the 20th, I found that the coolies hadplayed me the same trick as they had done previously, though not to suchan extent. Instead of each man having 20 days' provisions, scarcely onehad more than 5 or 6: as they had 20 days' given them in addition to thatthey would require on the road, it is obvious they must have thrown muchaway. Were all the Gams disposed to take one to Lama, it could not bedone with Assamese coolies and, above all, Seerings or Ahooms are thevery worst; and although often good sized men, they are very deficient instrength. Nagas and Mishmees are the best, then Kamptees. 

I gave before leaving a packet of salt to Premsong, according I supposeto their own custom of proceeding. Yesterday he went to Roomling, Krisong's eldest son, and gained his consent. I mention this to shew howactive he is. He is a friend of the Dupha's, {42} and to my surprise, told me he saw Capt. Hannay at Hookhoom, who gave him a jacket, and triedto induce him to shew him the road to Suddiya. He is certainly the bestof all the Gams, and appears to be very liberal. 

_Nov_. _23rd_. --Arrived at Deeling after a tedious march of 8 hours: wedid not traverse the two cliffs near the Lohit, but pursued a longer, butmore commodious cattle path: our Mishmees, however, preferred the shorterone. Gathered Sabia, Martynioidea, Alsophila, Menispermum at Paeen infine flower. At Ghaloom's old site a large Euphorbia fol obovatis, ramis4 angulato-alatis occurs, and Cymbydium giganteum in fine flower. _En__route_ hither I noticed the following; Bauhinia, Hoya, Urtica gigas, Mucuna, Curculigo, Panax, foliis supra-decompositis, Dalbergia, Laurus, Abroma, Lactuca exaltata, Uncaria, Siegesbeckia, Megala, _Podo-Molee_, and a species subscandent of bamboo, internodiis vix cylindricis, gracilibus; this is of great use where it occurs, in assisting one'sascent and descent. 

_Nov_. _24th_. --Left about 11 for Thuma-thaya: we first descended theDissoo ravine, then up a very steep hill, the top of which wascultivated, then descended and crossed another stream, the remainder ofour march consisting almost entirely of an uninterrupted steep ascent:during our progress we gained partial views of the Plains and the NagaHills, but on crossing a high ridge on which I observed Betula Populus?Rhododendrum arboreum, the view to the East and West was very fine. Thatto the W. Embracing the greater part of the plains about Suddiya and theAbor Hills, stretching along to S. W. The more distant Naga Hills. TheLohit could be traced for an immense way, the Dihong, Dibong, Digaroo, Dihing were all partially visible. To the N. E. Thegri-thaya was finelyseen, then some rugged peaks among which Laim-planj was conspicuous. Itembraced the course of the Lohit, at least its right bank, ridgesurmounting ridge: the loftier ones tipped with snow; and lastly it wasclosed by a huge wall, all covered with snow, especially its peaks, stretching away to the N. From this we descended to Yen, where, asusual, I took up my quarters in a granary. During the latter portion ofthe journey, I gathered a Passiflora? Lobelia two species, a Scitaminea, Spiraea, and a curious aromatic plant, pedunculis bracteae adnatis, bracteis, coloratis, petal videis. 

Codonopsis, etc. Dicksonia, stipitibus atris 3 canaliculatis, frondibusamplis, 10 pedalibus; in fine fructification; this is the same with theManmoo plant. I observed likewise an arborescent Sambucus, a Bonnaya, ahuge Begonia: Coix was seen cultivated. 

_Nov_. _25th_. --Spent the day in botanising. Gathered Adamia, some fineferns, a bamboo, spiculis dense congestis, bracteis scariosisinterspersis, and Schizosfachyum, Nees ab E. Etc. 

Another and much finer species of the Fumariaceous genus, I found on Laim-planj, Deutzia, a rare Quercus, a fine species of Antonia, (Br. ) infruit, a Bartramia, Trematodon, Neckera, etc. , noticed a fruit somethingsimilar to that of Combretum, allis 2 maximis, 2 minimis: cotyledonibushaemisphaericis. 

Saurauja, Prunus: 3 species of Aralia, Castanea, Quercus, etc. A speciesof Panicum is here cultivated; the Assamese know it by the name Cheena, 3species of Polygonatum, including that from Laim-planj, one foliiscarnosis oppositis. 2 species of Begonia, making altogether six. TheAmaranthacea of Deeling is here found extensively, it often assumes theform of a climber of considerable size. Musa farinosa grows to a greatsize, 20 to 25 feet. Bambusa in flower has stems about two inches indiameter. Sterculia flowers were observed on the ground. In theafternoon it rained slightly. This is the coldest place I have visitedon these hills: in the evening and earlier parts of the night there is avery cold draught down Thuma-thaya. 

The Anthistiria found on the more elevated portions of these hills, isprobably different from that of the plains. Urticea are here found inabundance. 

_Nov_. _26th_. --This morning the atmosphere being beautifullytransparent, very high land plentifully sprinkled with snow was visibleto the N. W. By W. , and to the N. W. A slight peep of the Himalayas wasgained. Started at 9, and commenced the ascent; we arrived at ourhalting place at 11. 5. The greater part of the march was a steep ascentthrough dry woods, the ground being very slippery owing to the leaves. Bucklandia occurs in abundance and of a large size, and attains a muchgreater height than Sedgwickia: found many interesting plants and a smallConifera, probably an Araucaria or a Taxus. 

I continued the ascent until about 12, but the scene had totally changed;the whole face of the mountain on the S. Side being entirely destitute oftrees, and in many places quite naked. The ascent was not verydifficult, and occupied a little more than an hour. This acclivity ischiefly occupied by Graminea, all past flowering, all adhering veryfirmly to the rock, which is quartzose and greyish blue outside, excessively angular: Gentianeae 2: a beautiful Campanula, Hypericum, Viburnum, Spiraea, Bryum Neckera, Pteris, Scabiosa, some Compositae, oneor two Vaccinioidea, and a curious shrubby Rubiacea evidently a Serissa, were observed. The top, which represents a ridge, is partially wooded, the trees being the continuation or rather termination of the jungle thatcovers the whole northern face of the mountain. Here I saw Bucklandia, aPomacea, Crawfurdia, Deutzia, Cynaroidea, Viburna 2, some ferns. Brachymeum, Neckera, Lichens several: a Caryophyllea and a Berberis. 

All these were somewhat stunted. The various views were beautiful, embracing a complete panorama, but unfortunately obscured towards Lama bytrees. The Lohit was seen extensively from the Koond to Ghaloom's, andto the plains to an immense distance. The whole range of Abor Hills anda great portion of the Naga, some of which appeared very high, werelikewise seen: to the S. E. High ridges not far distant and covered withsnow, limited the view; slight snow was visible on the peak seen fromSuddiya. The descent was very tedious owing to the excessiveslipperiness of the grass: it was dangerous, because a slip would havefrequently dashed you to pieces, and in all cases would have hurt oneseverely. 

_Nov_. _27th_. --Descended to Yen: near our halting place we gathered afine Pomacea arborea in fruit: a Symplocos, and observed Wallichioideaeand Calamus. The plants of the greatest interest gathered were an Acer, an Epilobium, a Hoya grandiflora, Eurya, Hypericum, a fine Arundo, Bucklandia: Cotoneaster microphylla, a Sabia, Coriaria, Abelia? a rareDipodous Orchidea of the same genus as a dwarf plant of the CossiyaHills. Rhododendron, scandesent Eleodendron. 

The ascent for the greater part is a steep wooded ridge; the first changeindicated or induced by elevation is the diminution of the size in thetrees, and the frequent occurrence of a Betulus? out of flower. Proceeding onward one comes to a ridge, the S. E. Declivity of which isnearly naked, the opposite being wooded with shrubs, Viburnum, Conaria, Mespilus, Pomacea, Rhododendron, Rubiacea Serissa, Cupulifera and someCompositae occur. Then Arbutus Vaccinium; Nardus: Filix cano-tomentosa, Lycopodium; Dicranum atratum; one or two Hypna, a Bryum, and Neckerafusca. Descending slightly from thence the ridge is observed to bewooded on both sides; it is at the termination of this that we halted. The ascent is continued up a rock, and the whole of the mountain is, excepting the ravines, covered with Graminea, Cyperacea, Filixcano-tomentosa, etc. But the Ericoidea are not so fine. The grasses ofthe summit are two Andropogons: an Arundo Festucoidea, Panicum, Isachne, Nardus ceasing below, it is towards this that Crepis? and Campanula arecommon. 

The Ceratostemmata are found towards the summit, none descend anydistance, except one of Roxburgh's; they are all generally epiphytes. Orchidea become more common towards the halting place; beyond this Iobserved only two past flowering, one Habenaria, and a Malaxidea; theothers are two Caelogyne, a Dipodious Orchidea, labelli ungue sigmoideovery common, a Bolbophyllum, and a few ditto epiphytes out of flower, oneterrestrial Bletioidea is common in some places. At our halting place, Iobserved an arborescent Araliacea, a Cissus, an Acanthacea and aLaurinea. A little below, Pandanus occurs here and there, and attains alarge size, the largest in fact I have ever seen. Castanea occurs abouthalf way up, it is that species with rigid compound spines to the cupula. I gathered also a fine Geastrum, but the specimens are lost. Bucklandiaoccurs extensively; it is a distinct species owing to its many floweredcapitula; Sedgwickia comes into play towards Yen, where Bucklandiaappears to become scarce: a large Vitex floribus roseo-purpureis is themost conspicuous tree of all, it ceases towards the summit; Cyathea Iobserved only above half way. Camellia axillaris occurs below, but Imissed the Laim-planj plant. I may here observe that almost all plantswith red flowers, at least in this quarter, are acid: the Assamese alwaysappear to expect this, the proofs are Loranthus, Ceratostemma, andBegonia, in which red is generally a predominant colour. 

Antrophyllum I noticed about Yen; towards Yen, I diverged from the pathto visit the place whence the stones are procured, which the Mishmees useas flints for striking lights: this stone is found on the S. Western faceof the mountain: the stones or noduli are frequently sub-crystalline, andare imbedded in a sort of micaceous frangible rock: they are very common, of very different sizes, with glassy fracture; the best are hard; the badeasily frangible, their weight is great. The inclination of this bed isconsiderable; overlying it at an inclination of 45 degrees, is the greyquartzose rock which forms the chief part, and perhaps nearly the whole, of the mountain. The Mishmee name for the noduli is _Mpladung_. 

In the jungle at Yen occurs a huge Palm evidently Caryota, foliis maximissupra decompositis; the diameter of the trunk is 1. 5 to 2 feet. It issaid to die after flowering: the natives use the central lax structuresas food. The Yen Gam promises to send me specimens to-morrow. The PalmsI have hitherto seen are Wallichia, one or two Calami: Wallichioidiatrunco 5-10 pedali, and a Phaenicoidea, but this I only saw at the footof the mountains near Laee Panee, and the small Areca common aboutNegrogam. The name of the large Palm in Assamese is _Bura Sawar_. Allthe plants common to these and the Cossiya mountains, with one or twoexceptions, flower much earlier here, those being all past floweringwhich I gathered in flower on the Cossiya hills in November last. Thisis owing to the greater cold, and the consequent necessity for the plantsflowering at an earlier and warmer period. 

A species of ruminant, or, according to the native account, a species ofPachydermata called the _Gan Pohoo_, occurs on Thuma-thaya. At thesummit of the mountain the ground was in one place rooted up, theMishmees said, by this animal, which they describe as a large Hog, butwhich I should rather take to be a kind of Deer. 

_Nov_. _28th_. --Returned to Deeling. At the commencement of theprincipal descent we gathered Betula and another Cupulifera, bothmoderately sized trees. Anthestina arundinacea, is about this place verycommon, and an Andropogon, Culmis ramosis which I had previously broughtfrom the Abor hills. About half way down by a present of _kanee_(opium), I succeeded in getting the arborescent vitex, which is the moststriking tree of all when in flower. Lost sight altogether ofBucklandia, nor did I observe Sedgwickia. Gathered at the foot of Thuma-thaya a Caelogyne in flower, allied to C. Gardneriana; Alsophila iscommon towards the base. 

In the evening the Yen Gam came up according to his promise with thegigantic Palm, with male inflorescence, it is a Caryota; he likewisebrought Sarcocordalis, Rafflesiacea, and a curious pubescent Piper. Healso added the female flowers of another Palm, which, according to him, is another species of _Sawar_, or Caryota: the inflorescence is of anorange yellow. A tree with the habit of Pterospermum occurs on Thuma-thaya, low down Habenaria uniflora on rocks in the Dirsoo Panee, orriver; Kydia occurs about Yen, but not higher. 

_Nov_. _29th_. --Reached Laee Panee after a march of five hours; andwithout Assamese coolies, it might be done in three. I noticed belowDeeling, but still at a considerable elevation, Crawfurdia campanu lacea, Adamea, Engelhardtia, Vitex speciosa, and Magnolia in the order in whichthey are thus given, Quercus, cupulis echinatis occurs comparatively lowdown, Castanea ferox still lower, Dracaena comes into view towards thebase. At the village first reached in the ascent there is a MeliaceousAzedarach looking tree. 

At our old halting place, and which is near Deeling, another_Ahum-metta Ghas_ was shewn me. This attains, I am told, a largesize: it is not very unlike in habit a Melanorrhaea, and its young leavesare tinged with red, the mature ones are coriaceous. I have not seen itin flower; the juice, at least from small branches, is not very abundant, and at first is of a whitish colour; it is, _on dit_, after drying thatit assumes the black tint; at any rate it is excessively acrid, for oneof my servants who cut it incautiously, had his face spoilt for a time:the swelling even after four days had elapsed was considerable. Withthis as well as the Rhus they dye the strings of the simple fibres of_Sawar_, which they all wear below the knee: if not properly dried thesestrings cause some inflammation: the strings are ornamental, light, andwhen worn in small numbers graceful, but when dozens are employed, andall the upper ones loose, they deform the figure much; some of the women, perhaps anxious to restrain the protuberance of their calves, tie two orthree lightly across the calf. 

At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, _baccis_ cyaneis occurs herethe same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya. 

_Nov_. _30th_. --Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam's hands, amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a longsword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming intoflower, Calyce aestiv. Valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheraslonge producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyeniacoccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Baehmeria?) foliissubtus candidis is common. 

_Dec_. _1st_. --Reached the Tapan Gam's after a sharp march of four hours. We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered _en route_ 4new Acanthaceae, not previously met with on this trip, among which is abeautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fineAristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom's, but at oncedistinct by its ferruginous pubescence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium notbefore met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behavedvery handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given fivekuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes, which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus, margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba, postice lutescens. 

Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens ofPentaptera, the Hool-look of the Assamese, the timber of which is usedfor large canoes; and Lagerstraemia grandiflora occurs on the banks ofthe Kussin Panee. 

CHAPTER III. 

_Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack__Districts_, _Upper Assam_. 

_Dec_. _2nd_. --Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and KaramPanee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banksof the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and anarborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellisdensissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. Thecaudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equallyfurnished with strong black bristly radicles towards its base. 

_Dec_. _3rd_. --Left for Husa Gam's about 9, and arrived at the villagewhich is on the Kampai of the Singfos, Tup-pai of the Mishmees about 4. 5P. M. The first part of our march was to the E. Up the Karam, we thentraversed for a long way heavy jungle in a S. Direction, and then came onthe dry bed of the Kampai, up which we ascended to the village. Found aRuellioidea, _Cyananthus_, _mihi_. _Oom_ of the Assamese, with which theKamptees dye their black blue cloths. Noticed an arborescent Araliaceainermis, foliis supra decomposita; panicule patentissima. The Husa Gamtreated us very handsomely forming a striking contrast with the Mishmees;he declares positively that no tea exists in this direction; I shalltherefore proceed direct from Luttora to Beesa. Roxburghia occurred onthe route. The village is on the left bank of the river: the directionfrom Jingsha's being about N. W. 

_Dec_. _4th_. --Reached Luttora after an easy march of three hours and ahalf, for the most part along an excellent path. We passed the followingvillages _en route_ Chibong, Wakon, Mtarm, and Mcyompsan: three ofwhich are of some size; none however so large as Nsas. This is thelargest Singfo village I have seen, and probably contains 400 people. This village and all the others are situated on high ground, the ascentfrom the Kampai being probably 70 feet. The country consists of level, apparently good soil, with here and there broadish ravines in whichbamboos are abundant. Cultivation is common, and of considerable extent. On a similar eminence is situate Luttora, and it has been well chosen, for on both sides that I approached it, the ascent is steep and capableof being easily defended; the south side is bounded by the Ponlong Panee, which runs into the Tenga Panee. If any ascent it is an easy one, andmust be to the westward; to the north, there is a small stream, butneither this, Ponlong or Tenga are any thing but mere rills, which may beeasily leaped over in the dry seasons. Our route from Nsas was to the W. Of south. No stockades appear to exist in this quarter. 

Luttora is not so large as Nsas; formerly the Luttora Gam was the chiefof all this soil, but he has been partly deserted by two bodies of menwho have respectively chosen Nsas and Htan-tsantan. 

The Gam visited me in the evening at our halting place on the Ponlong; heis a large, coarse, heavy-looking man, nearly blind, and excessivelydirty. He proposed of himself to me, to become the Company's ryott inaccordance with the wish, he said, of the Dupha Gam; but when I told himhe ought to send or go to the Suddiya Sahib, or Political Agent, he saidhe wanted to see the Dupha first: he was accompanied by a very loquaciousoldish man, who had just returned from Hook-hoom, to which place he hadgone with the Dupha. They left apparently not much pleased at my beingempty handed. 

_Dec_. _5th_. --Left at 6. 5, reached the Muttack Panee about 8. 5, havingcome through much heavy bamboo jungle; we then ascended the dry bed ofthe Muttack, and ascended after some time the Minaboom. This was mosttedious, as we continued along the ridge for two hours; we then commencedour descent, but did not reach the Meera Panee much before 1 P. M. Downthis we came here, and then along some curious chasms in the sandstone, and encamped about 3. The difference of soil between the Minaboom andthe Mishmee hills is most obvious; on the N. E. Declivity there is muchsoil; but on the opposite side little but rounded stones which supply theplace of soil, and in places we saw nothing but sandstone conglomerate?or indurated soil with many boulders imbedded in it, and a blackishgreasy clay slate; while on the Mishmees, on the contrary, all is rock, hard and harsh to the touch; or where loose stones do occur on the faceof the hills, they are all angular. The vegetation of sandstone islikewise far more varied; and that of the Meera Panee district, aboundsin ferns, among which is Polypodium Wallichianum. The Tree-fern ofKujing I observed in the Muttack, Sedgwickia in Minaboom, twoMagnoliaceae, one bracteis persistent, induratis, and a Dipterocarpus. The chief vegetation of the ridge consists of grasses, among which bambooholds a conspicuous place. A Begonia was common along the Muttack. TheMeera Panee would well repay a halt of two or three days. 

At our halting place we met four Burmese, despatched by the Maum, {51}who has arrived at Beesa on a visit to the Luttora Gam. 

_Dec_. _6th_. --Reached Beesa after a sharp march of six hours. Ourcourse lay at first down the Meera Panee; here I observed more of thePolypodium Wallichianum, which is common throughout the Singfo hillcountry, and appears to be used as grog, at least the juice of thepetioles. We then diverged to the westward through heavy jungle, and theremainder of our march consisted of uninteresting dense jungle, water-courses, and excessively low places. Observed Sabia in some of thejungles; the only interesting plants gathered were an Impatiens and twoor three Acanthaceae. About 2. 5 P. M. We came on the Noa Dihing, whichis now nearly dry, the water having flowed into the Kamroop. No boat, not even a dak boat, can come near Beesa. It is obvious that this riverhere never presented any depth, both banks being very low; the bedconsists of small hard boulders. 

_Dec_. _7th_, _8th_. --Halted at Beesa. 

_Dec_. _9th_. --Started for the Naga village, at some distance, and

_Dec_. _10th_. --Left for Kujoo or Khoonlong, which we reached about 1, after a march of five hours. At 10, we arrived at Dhoompsan or Thoompsa, a large village with extensive cultivation. The remainder of our marchwas through heavy jungle, many parts of which were very low, and crowdedwith a fierce Calamus. The higher parts abound in a Dipterocarpus, andtwo Castaneae. I found many fine ferns, all of which however wecollected last year. Chrysobaphus, not uncommon. Apostasia rare. 

_Dec_. _11th_. --Visited the tea in the old locality at Nigroo. No stepshave been taken towards clearing the jungles, except perhaps of tea. TheGam tells me, that the order for clearing was given to Shroo, Dompshan, and Kumongyon, Gams of three villages near the spot. Noticed Dicksonia_en route_, so that we must have passed it last year. AEsculus alsooccurs here. 

_Dec_. _12th_. --Arrived at Kugoodoo after an easy march of two hours anda half. At 12, went to see the tea which lies to the S. S. W. Of thevillage, and about ten minutes' walk to the W. Of the path leading toNegrogam, and which for the most part runs along an old bund road. Afterdiverging from this road we passed through some low jungle, which isalways characterised by Calamus Zalaccoideus; and then after traversingfor a short time some rather higher ground, came on the tea. This patchis never under water; there is no peculiarity of vegetation connectedwith it. It runs about N. And S. For perhaps 150 yards by 40 to 50 inbreadth. The Gam had cleared the jungle of all, except the larger treesand the low _herbaceous underwood_, so that a _coup d'oeil_ was atonce obtained, and gave sufficient evidence of the abundance of theplants, many of which were of considerable size, and all bore evidence ofhaving been mutilated. They were for the most part loaded with flowers, and are the finest I have seen in the Singfo country. Young buds werevery common, nor can I reconcile this with the statement made by the Gam, that no young leaves will be obtainable for four months. From theclearing, the plants are exposed to moderate sun; it is perhaps to thisthat the great abundance of flowers is to be attributed. The soil, nowquite dry at the surface, is of a cinereous grey; about a foot below itis brown, which passes, as you proceed, into deeper yellow; about fourfeet deep, it passes into sand. No ravines exist, and mounds only doabout a few of the larger trees. The soil as usual is light, friable, easily reduced to powder, and has a very slight tendency to stiffness. 

_Dec_. _13th_. --Left for the Muttack: our course lay through densejungle, principally of bamboo, and along the paths of wild elephants;these beasts are here very common. We halted after a march of sevenhours on a small bank of the Deboro; the only plant of interest was myCyananthus in flower. 

_Dec_. _14th_. --Continued through similar jungle along the Deboro; bamboomore frequent. About 2 P. M. We left the undulating hillocks, and thejungle became more open. At 4, we reached Muttack, but had still totraverse a considerable distance before we halted at Kolea Panee. Wecrossed the Deboro _en route_; no particular plant was met with. Ishot two large serpents, _Pythons_; one 8, and the other 10 feet long. The Kolea Panee is of some width, but is fordable. 

_Dec_. _15th_. --After marching for about seven hours, halted at a smallvillage. The country passed over was, like most of this part of Muttack, open, consisting of a rather high plain covered with grasses, T. Sperata, Saccharum, and Erianthus, with here and there very swampy ravines; thesoil is almost entirely sandy, light at the surface; the yellow tintincreasing with the depth, which is considerable. Crossed the Deboro bya rude wooden bridge. I found no particular plants _en route_. 

_Dec_. _16th_. --Reached Rangagurrah, after a march of about an hour: andhalted for the day. 

_Dec_. _18th_. --Started to visit Sedgwickia at the wood, where we foundit in February last. Reached the spot, which is at least ten miles fromRangagurrah, in two hours and a half. The trees had evidently notflowered last year; many of the buds were of some size, and suchcontained flower buds, each capitula being in addition enveloped in threebracteae densely beset with brown hair. The natives assured me, it willflower about April, or at the sowing of _halee_. When we before foundit, the buds were all leaf buds, which at once accounts for thenon-appearance of flowers. Gathered Sabia in the Sedgwickia wood. TheMajor {53} arrived before I got back. 

_Dec_. _20th_. --Revisited the tea locality of Tingrei, which we reachedafter a five hours' march. The portion of it formerly cleared is nowquite clean: all the plants, and they are very abundant, have a shrubbyshady appearance; the branches being numerous, so that the first aspectis favourable. But one soon detects an evident coarseness in the leaves, the tint of which is likewise much too yellow; altogether theirappearance is totally unlike that of teas growing in their natural shade. That part, and the more extensive one which we first visited in Februarylast, is now clearing; almost all the large trees have been felled, andall the underwood removed. The branches, etc. Are piled in heaps and setfire to, much to the detriment of the plants: all the tea trees likewisehave been felled. My conviction is, that the tea will not flourish inopen sunshine; at any rate, subjection to this should be gradual. Further, that cutting the main stem is detrimental, not only inducinglong shoots, but most probably weakening the flavour of the leaves. Itappears to me to be highly desirable, that an intelligent superintendentshould reside on the spot, and that he should at least be a goodpractical gardener, with some knowledge of the science also. 

_Dec_. _24th_. --Reached Suddiya. The country passed through was, for thefirst two days, of the same description as before; i. E. Rather highgrassy plains with belts of jungle, and intervening low very swampyravines. The soil precisely the same as that of the tea localities. Thelast march was, with the exception of Chykwar, through low damp densejungle. 

* * * * *

_Extract from the Author's letter to Captain F_. _Jenkins_, _Commissioner of Assam_, _regarding the Mishmees_. _December_, _1836_. {54}

"I had thus become acquainted with all the influential chiefs near ourfrontier, and by all I was received in a friendly and hospitable manner. In accordance with my original intentions, my attention was in the firstplace directed towards ascertaining whether the tea exists in thisdirection or not, and, as I have already informed you, I have everyreason to think that the plant is unknown on these hills. From what Ihave seen of the tea on the plains, I am disposed to believe that thecomparative want of soil, due to the great inclination of all theeminences, is an insuperable objection to its existence. 

"As I before observed to you, during my stay at Jingsha, my curiosity hadbeen excited by reports of an incursion of a considerable force of Lamasinto the Mishmee country. It hence became, having once established afooting in the country, a matter of paramount importance to proceedfarther into the interior, and, if possible, to effect a junction withthese highly interesting people; but all my attempts to gain this pointproved completely futile; no bribes, no promises would induce any of thechiefs to give me guides, even to the first Mishmee village belonging tothe Mezhoo tribe. I was hence compelled to content myself for thepresent, with obtaining as much information as possible relative to theabove report, and I at length succeeded in gaining the followingcertainly rather meagre account. 

"The quarrel, as usual, originated about a marriage settlement betweentwo chiefs of the Mezhoo and Taeen tribes: it soon ended in both partiescoming to blows. The Mezhoo chief, ROOLING, to enable him at once tooverpower his enemies, and to strike at once at the root of their power, called in the assistance of the Lamas. From this country a force ofseventy men armed with matchlocks made an invasion, and, as was to beexpected, the Taeen Mishmees were beaten at every point and lost abouttwenty men. The affair seems to have come to a close about Septemberlast, when the Lamas returned to their own country. Where it occurred Icould gain no precise information, but it must have been several days'journey in advance of the villages I visited. 

"It was owing to the unsettled state of the country, resulting from thisfeud, that I could gain no guides from the Digaroos, without whoseassistance in this most difficult country, I need scarcely say, that allattempts to advance would have been made in vain. These people veryplausibly said, if we give you guides, who is to protect us from thevengeance of the Mezhoos when you are gone, and who is to insure us froma second invasion of the Lamas? Another thing to be considered is, theinfluence even then exercised over the Mishmees near our boundaries bythe Singphos connected with the Dupha Gam; but from the renewal of theintercourse with our frontier station, there is every reason forbelieving that this influence is ere this nearly destroyed. 

"The natives of this portion of the range are divided into two tribes, Taeen or Digaroo and Mezhoo, these last tracing their descent from the_Dibong_ Mishmees, who are always known by the term crop-haired. TheMezhoo, however, like the Taeens, preserve their hair, wearing itgenerally tied in a knot on the crown of their head. The appearance ofboth tribes is the same, but the language of the Mezhoos is verydistinct. They are perhaps the more powerful of the two; but their mostinfluential chiefs reside at a considerable distance from the lowerranges. The only Mezhoos I met with are those at _Deeling-Yen_, asmall village opposite _Deeling_, but at a much higher elevation, and_Tapan_. I need scarcely add that it was owing to the opposition of thistribe that Captain WILCOX failed in reaching _Lama_. The Digaroos areruled by three influential chiefs, who are brothers DRISONG, KHOSHA, andGHALOOM: of these, DRISONG is the eldest and the most powerful, but heresides far in the interior. PRIMSONG is from a distant stock, and asthe three brothers mentioned above are all passed the prime of life, there is but little doubt that he will soon become by far the mostinfluential chief of his tribe. Both tribes appear to intermarry. TheMishmees are a small, active, hardy race, with the Tartar cast offeatures; they are excessively dirty, and have not the reputation ofbeing honest, although, so far as I know, they are belied in thisrespect. Like other hill people, they are famous for the musculardevelopment of their legs:--in this last point the women have generallythe inferiority. They have no written language. Their clothing isinferior; it is, however, made of cotton, and is of their ownmanufacture;--that of the men consists of a mere jacket and an apologyfor a _dhoti_, --that of the women is more copious, and at any rate quitedecent: they are very fond of ornaments, especially beads, the quantitiesof which they wear is very often quite astonishing. They appear to mecertainly superior to the Abors, of whom, however, I have seen but few. Both sexes drink liquor, but they did not seem to me to be so addicted toit as is generally the case with hill tribes:--their usual drink is afermented liquor made from rice called _mont'h_: this, however, is farinferior to that of the Singphos, which is really a pleasant drink. 

"_Religion_. Of their religion I could get no satisfactoryinformation--every thing is ascribed to supernatural agency. Theirinvocations to their deity are frequent, and seem generally to be madewith the view of filling their own stomachs with animal food. They livein a very promiscuous manner, one hundred being occasionally accommodatedin a single house. Their laws appear to be simple, --all grave crimesbeing judged by an assembly of Gams, who are on such occasions summonedfrom considerable distances. All crimes, including murder, are punishedby fines: but if the amount is not forthcoming, the offender is cut up bythe company assembled. But the crime of adultery, provided it becommitted against the consent of the husband, is punished by death; andthis severity may perhaps be necessary if we take into account the way inwhich they live. 

"The men always go armed with knives, Lama swords, or Singpho _dhaos_ andlances; and most of them carry cross-bows--the arrows for these areshort, made of bamboo, and on all serious occasions are invariablypoisoned with _bee_. When on fighting expeditions, they use shields, made of leather, which are covered towards the centre with the quills ofthe porcupine. Their lances are made use of only for thrusting: theshafts are made either from the wood of the lawn (_Caryota urens_) orthat of another species of palm _juice_--they are tipped with an ironspike, and are of great use in the ascent of hills. The lance heads areof their own manufacture, and of very soft iron. They have latterlybecome acquainted with fire-arms, and the chiefs have mostly each afirelock of _Lama_ construction. 

"With _Lama_ they carry on an annual trade, which apparently takes placeon the borders of either country. In this case _mishmee-teeta_, is thestaple article of the Mishmees, and for it they obtain _dhaos_ orstraight long swords of excellent metal and often of great length; copperpots of strong, but rough make, flints and steel, or rather steel alone, which are really very neat and good; warm woollen caps, coarse looseparti-colored woollen cloths, huge glass beads, generally white or blue, various kinds of cattle, in which _Lama_ is represented as abounding, andsalts. I cannot say whether the Lamas furnish flints with the steelimplements for striking light; the stone generally used for this purposeby the Mishmees is the nodular production from _Thumathaya_, --and this, although rather frangible, answers its purpose very well; with theSingphos they barter elephants' teeth, (these animals being found in thelower ranges, ) for slaves, dhaws, and buffaloes. 

"With the Khamtees they appear to have little trade, although there is aroute to the proper country of this people along the _Ghaloom panee_, or _Ghaloom Thee_ of WILCOX'S chart; this route is from the greatheight of the hills to be crossed, only available during the hot months. 

"With the inhabitants of the plains they carry on an annual trade, whichis now renewed after an interruption of two years, exchanging cloths, Lama swords, spears, _mishmee-teeta_, _bee_, which is in very greatrequest, and _gertheana_, much esteemed by the natives for its peculiarand rather pleasant smell, for money, (to which they begin to attachgreat value), cloths, salt and beads: when a sufficient sum of money isprocured, they lay it out in buffaloes and the country cattle. "

* * * * *

The following is a list of collections of Plants from the Mishmee Hillsto the extreme East, Upper Assam. 

 _Dicotyledones_. _Dicotyledones_. 

 (Ligulatae, 9) Ericineae, 7Composi- (Cynaraceae, 4) 89 Verbenaceae, 8tae, (Corymbiferae, 76) Boragineae, 2

 Labiatae, 50Valerianeae, 1 Gesneriaceae, 22Dipsaceae, 1 Acanthaceae, 38Caprifoliaceae, 6 Scrophularineae, 19Rubiaceae, 42 Solaneae, 6

Apocyneae, ) 5 Convolvulaceae, 8Asclepiadeae, ) Primulaceae, 1

Gentianeae, 7 Myrsineae, 19Oleinae, 2 Escalloniaceae? 3Jasmineae, 6 Malvaceae, 6Campanulaceae, 7 Cruciferae, 3Lobeliaceae, 7 Polygaleae, 1Vacciniaceae, 2 Violaceae, 5Passifloreae, 1 Begoniaceae, 6Modeccoideae, 1 Umbelliferae, 4Samydeae, 1 Araliaceae, 12Ampelideae, Leea, 6 Rhamneae, 1Balsamineae, 15 Celastrineae, 9Sileneae, 6 Amaranthaceae, 8Aurantiaceae, 5 Polygoneae, 12Meliaceae, 5 Chenopodeae, 1Sapindaceae, 3 Plantagineae, 1Acerineae, 4 Urticeae, 14Malpighiaceae, 3 Ulmaceae, 1Hypericineae, 2 Euphorbiaceae, 21Ternstroemiaceae, 11 Scepaceae, 1Symplocineae, 3 Stilagineae, 5Ebenaceae, 1 Myriceae, 1

 (Rhus, 5) Juglandeae, 1Terebin- (Buchanania, 1) Cupuliferae, 4thaceae, (Phlebochiton, 1) 9 Betulaceae, 5 (Sabia, 2) Salicineae, 1

Zanthoxyleae, 5 Laurineae, 8Conareae, 1 Hamamelideae, 2Trygophylleae, 1 Thymeleae, 1Rutaceae, 2 Santalaceae, 1Ranunculaceae, 4 Loranthaceae, 2Fumariaceae, 2 Proteaceae, 1Myristiceae, 2 Elaeagneae, 1Anonaceae, 4 Aristolochiae, 3Magnoliaceae, 1 Combretaceae, 2Berberideae, 1 Chlorantheae, 1Lardizabaleae, 1 Piperaceae, 14Menispermeae, 5 Coniferae, 1Rosaceae, 16 Incertae, 17Leguminosae, 31 Unarranged, 8Philadelpheae, 2 Ditto, 14Saxifrageae, 3 ---Melastomaceae, 9 725Onagrariae, 3 ---Myrtaceae, 2Cucurbitaceae, 6_Monocotyledones_ _Acotyledones_

Smilacineae, 14Dioscoreae, 1 Pteris, 21Peliosantheae, 5 Blechnum, 1Tupistraceae, 2 Dicksonia, 1Commelineae, 10 Davallia, 12Tacceae, 1 Lindsaea, 2Aroideae, 6 Asplenium 27Scitamineae, 6 Allantodioides, 6Orchideae, 43 Aspidium, 22Apostaceae, 1 Nephrodium, 16Palmae, 3 Cyatheae, 7Cyperaceae, 22 Trichomanes, 4Gramineae, 73 Hymenophyllum, 2 --- Gleichenia, 1 187 Angiopteris, 1 --- Botrychium, 1 _Acotyledones_ Lygodium, 2 Lycopodium, 6Acrostichum, 12 Tinesipteris 1Ceterach, 2 Equisetum, 1Grammitis, 3 ---Polypodium, 56 224Pleopeltis, 8 Monocotyledones, 187Niphobolus, 1 Dicotyledones, 725Cheilanthes, 3 Mosses unarranged, about 50Adiantum, 3 ----Vittaria, 1 Total, 1186Lomaria, 1 ----

N. B. --The plants enumerated above, were transmitted to the India House in1838, together with former collections made _in the Tenasserim_Provinces. 

CHAPTER IV. 

_Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookhoom_, _Ava_, _and__Rangoon_, _Lat_. _27 degrees 25' to 16 degrees 45' N_. , _Long_. _96 degrees to 96 degrees 20' E_. 

We left Suddiya on the 7th of February 1837, and reached Kedding on the10th; stayed there one day, and reached Kamroop Putar, where I foundMajor White and Lieut. Bigge on the 12th. The jungle to this place wassimilar to the usual jungle of the Singpho country, very generally low, and intersected by ravines. We crossed _en route_ the Karam river, theNoa Dihing, or Dihing branch of the Booree Dihing, on which the Beesa'sold village was situated; and lastly the Kamroop. Kamroop Putar is closeto the Naga hills; it is a cultivated rice tract, on the river Kamroop. This river is fordable, with frequent rapids. The only curious thingsabout it are the petroleum wells, which are confined to three situations. The wells are most numerous towards the summits of the range; and theplace where they occur is free from shrubs. The petroleum is of allcolours, from green to bluish white; this last is the strongest, partaking of the character of Naphtha, it looks like bluish or greyishclay and water. The vegetation of the open places in which the wells arefound, consists of grass, Stellaria, Hypericum, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, Mazus rugosus, Plantago media, etc. , all of which are found on theplains. One of the wells is found on the Putar, or cultivated ground;the petroleum in this is grey. The Kamroop river above this Putar, strikes off to the eastward, and the Kamteechick, a tributary, falls intoit from the south; this last is a good deal the smaller; the banks of theKamroop are in many places precipitous. About two miles from the Putar, a fine seam of excellent coal has been exposed by a slip: {60} the bedsare at an inclination of 45 degrees, and their direction is, I think, nearly the same with that of the left bank of the river in which theyoccur; immediately over the seam there is a small ravine, where three ofthe veins are still farther exposed. Caricea, a new Dicranum, Alsophilaferruginea, Polytrichum aloides, Bartramea subulosa, and Jungermanniaeare common near this spot. 

Left Kamroop on the 19th, and proceeded in a S. W. Direction for twelvemiles, when we halted on the Darap Kha, at the foot of the Naga hills, opposite nearly to Beesala. Nothing of interest occurred. 

_Feb_. _21st_. --Commenced the ascent, and after marching about ten miles, halted in a valley near a stream. Temperature 66 degrees. Water boiledat 210. 5 degrees, giving an altitude of about 77 degrees, or 383 feetabove Suddiya. The road was very winding, the path good, except towardsthe base of the hills: the soil sandy, in places indurated, and restingon sandstone; but there is not yet sufficient elevation to ensure muchchange in vegetation. Found Kaulfussia {61a} below in abundance, observed Castanea and a Quercus; three species of Begonia, and three orfour species of Acanthacea. In other respects the jungle resembles thatof the Singpho territory. Dicksonia is abundant. Dipterocarpus of largesize occurs. Caught two innocuous snakes at the halting place. {61b}

_Feb_. _22nd_. --The distance of the march is about 12 miles, and wehalted after crossing the Darap Panee; some parts of the route weredifficult, at least for elephants. No particular features of vegetationyet appears. The summit of the higher hills looks pretty. Tree jungleconsiderable, open places with low grass, is the surrounding feature ofvegetation. The hill first surmounted from the halting place is coveredwith a Camellia or _Bunfullup_, (i. E. Bitter tea) of the Assamese. Thefruit has loculicidal dehiscence. In habit it is like that of the tea, but the buds are covered with imbricate scales. At the summit of thehill, it attained a height of 30 or 40 feet. Begoniacea, Urticaceae, Acanthaceae, Filices, are the most common. 

_Feb_. _23rd_. --Halted to enable the elephants to come up; they arrivedabout 10 A. M. Temperature of the air 75 degrees, water boiled at 210degrees, altitude 1029 feet. The Darap is a considerable stream, but isfordable at the heads of the rapids. Fish abound, especially _Bookhar_, a kind of Barbel, {61c} which reaches a good size. Clay slate appears tobe here the most common rock, and forms in many places the veryprecipitous banks of the river. Alsophila ferruginea, Areca, Calami, Fici. , Pentaptera, Laurineae, Myristiceae continue. Kaulfussia assamica, is common along the lower base of the hills. 

_Feb_. _23rd_. --Started at 7, and after a march of five hours, reachedthe halting place on the Kamtee-chick, some distance above the place atwhich we descended to its bed. Distance 12 miles, direction S. S. E. ;crossed one hill of considerable elevation, certainly 1000 feet above thehalting place, which we find by the temperature of boiling water to be1413 feet above the sea. The tops of these hills continue comparativelyopen, and have a very pretty appearance. The trees, however, have notassumed a northern character; their trunks are covered with epiphytes. The Kamtee-chick is a small stream fordable at the rapids, the extremebanks are not more than 30 or 40 yards. No peculiarity of vegetation asyet occurs; the fruit of a Quercus continues common, as well as that ofCastanea ferox. I met with that of a Magnolia; Tree ferns, Calami, Musa, Areca, and the usual sub-tropical trees continue; Acanthaceae are mostcommon, Gordonea plentiful on the open places on the hills, Sauraufa twospecies, Byttneria, etc. Etc. Altogether, I am disappointed in thevegetation, which, although rich, is not varied. Wallichia continuescommon. A Begonia with pointed leaves, and a Smilacineous plant are themost interesting, and a large Quercoid Polypodium, the lacineae of whichare deciduous; and these I found in abundance on the Mishmee hills, although I did not succeed in getting an entire frond. 

_Feb_. _24th_. --Marched about ten miles all the way up the bed of theKamtee-chick, now a complete mountain stream, the general direction beingS. S. E. Traversed in places heavy jungle, but for the most part weascended the bed of the river. The only very interesting plant wasPodostemon, apparently Griffithianum, which covers the rocks on the bedof the river. The usual plants continue, viz. Scitamineae, Phryniumcapitatum, Tradescantia, Paederia and Isophylla, Pothos 2 or 3 species, Ixora 2, Leea, which occasionally becomes arborescent. Cissus 3 or 4, Panax ditto, Pierardia sapida, Elaeocarpus, Smilax, Areca, Calami 2 or 3, Asplenium nidus, Fici several, Pentaptera, Cupuliferae, the latter rare;Bauheniae 2, Acanthaceae, one of which attains the size of a large shrub, Guttiferae 2, Phlebochiton, Rottlera, Millingtonia simplicifolia, Inga, Wallichia, Pentaptera, Malvacea, and Acanthacea convallariae flore. Iobserved Pandanus to be common, (one Sterculia was yesterday observed). Equisetae 2, the larger being the plant of the plains. Erythrina, Lagerstraemia grandiflora. Chondospermum, Polypodium, Acrostichoidesferrugineum, and the fruit of Cedrela Toona, Megala. Choranthus was notseen. 

_Feb_. _25th_. --Proceeded about 100 yards up the Kamchick, then crossedthe Tukkaka, and commenced the ascent of a high hill, certainly 1000 feetabove the elevation of our last halting place on the Kamchick: the lowerportion is covered with tree jungle, the upper portion of the mountain isopen, covered with a tall Saccharum and an Andropogon, among which aremixed several Compositae, and an Ajuga. Among the grass, occur treesscattered here and there, chiefly of a Gordonia. From the summit we hada pretty view of the Kamchick valley, closed in to the S. W. By a high anddistant wall, being part of the Patkaye range. All the hills have thesame features, but it is odd that their highest points are thicklyclothed with tree jungle. Observed Kydia, Alstonia, _Eurya_, Triumfetta, Celtis, Engelhardtia, Rhus, Rottlera, Loranthus, Callicarpa and Dicksoniaall at a high elevation, but this latter is scarce. No pines visible. _Dhak_, Fici, Musa farinacea, Bambusae continue. Compositae are commonon the clearings. A Mimosa occurs on the summit, and Andrachne, 3-foliata. Thence we descended for a short distance, and halted at thefoot of the Patkaye near the stream. 

Direction S. S. E. Distance four miles. 

Elevation 3026 feet. Temperature 66 degrees. Boiling point, 206. 5degrees. 

All the trees have a stunted appearance. 

_Feb_. _26th_. --Halted. 

_Feb_. _27th_. --To-day ascended a hill to the W. Of our camp, certainly500 feet above it; its features are the same, Porana alata. Bignonia, aLeguminous tree, a ditto Mimosa. Panax, Lobelia zeylanica, Artemisia, Cordia. Panicum curvatum, Anthistina arundinacea. 

Panicum _plicatoides_, Smithea, Hypericum of the plains, and Potentilla, Sida, and Plantago all plain plants, are found at the summit. To theS. W. Of our camp are the remains of a stockade, which was destroyed byfire, it is said, last year. The only interesting plants gathered were aCyrtandracea, AEschynanthus confertus mihi, a Dendrobium, and a fineHedychium, beautifully scented, occurring as an epiphyte. Of Ficusseveral species are common. On the large mountain to the N. E. , eitherbirch or larches are visible, their elevation being probably 1000 feetabove that of our camp. 

The party halted until the 3rd March; I had one day's capital fishing inthe Kamtee-chick with a running line. 

_March 2nd_. --A Havildar arrived, bearing a letter from Dr. Bayfield, {64} stating that he would be with the Major in two or three days. 

_March 3rd_. --Capt. Hannay and I started in advance; we crossed a lowhill, then a torrent, after which we commenced a very steep ascent. Thisascent, with one or two exceptions, continued the whole way to the top ofthe Patkaye range, which must be 1500 feet above our halting place. Thefeatures continued the same. The Patkaye are covered with dry treejungle on the northern side. The place, whence the descent begins, isnot well defined: at first winding through damp tree jungle. After amarch of four hours we descended to a small stream, the Ramyoom, whichforms the British boundary; this we followed for some distance throughthe wettest, rankest jungle I ever saw: thence we ascended a low hill, and the remainder of our march was for the most part a continued descentthrough dry open tree jungle, until we again descended into the dampzone. We reached water as night was setting in, and bivouacked in thebed of the stream. 

The former vegetation continued until we reached the dry forest coveringthe upper parts of the Patkaye, and here the forms indicating elevationincreased. Polygonatum, Ceratostemma, Bryum Sollyanum, and aTernstroemiacea occurred, Epiphytical orchideae are common, but werealmost all out of flower. Owing to the thickness of the jungle, and theheight of the trees, we could not ascertain what the trees were; but fromthe absence of fruit, etc. On the ground, I am inclined to think thatthey are not Cupuliferae. _Betee bans_, (of the natives) a kind ofbamboo, perhaps the same as the genus Schizostachyum, N. Ab. E. Is commonall over the summit, and descends to a considerable distance, especiallyon the southern side. On this side the prevalence of interesting formswas much more evident. Along the Kamyoom I gathered an Acer, an Arbutus, a Daphne. Polypodium arboreum ferrugineum was likewise here very common. Succulent Urticeae, Acanthaceae swarmed: a huge Calamus was likewiseconspicuous. On this side there is plenty of the bamboo called _Deo__bans_, articulis spinarum verticillis armatis, habitu B. Bacciferae. Among the trees on the descent, Magnoliaceae occur; the petals of one Ipicked up were light yellow, tinged with brown in the centre. A speciesof Viola occurred low down. I believe it is V. Serpens. On both sides, but especially the south Ceratostemma variegatum occurs; this is commonstill lower down the Kamyoom. The trees along this portion of theboundary nullah, are covered with masses of pendulous Neckera and Hypna. On the summit I observed two species of Panax, a fruitescent orarbusculous Composita, Asplenum nidus, Laurineae, etc. 

The direction of the day's journey was about S. S. E. The distance 15miles. 

_March 4th_. --We reached almost immediately the real Kamyoom, downwhich our route laid; we halted in its bed at 3, after a march mostfatiguing from crossing and recrossing the stream, of about ten miles:general direction E. S. E. The features of this torrent are precisely thesame as those of the Kamteechick, but Sedgewickia is common. I gathereda Stauntonia, Ceratostemma variegatum, and some fine ferns, and two orthree Begoniaceae, Magnoliaceae three species occur, among which isLiriodendron; Cupiliferae are common, especially Quercus cupulislamellatis, nuce depressa; a Viburnum likewise occurred. The stream issmall; the banks in many places precipitous. In one place great portionof the base of a hill had been laid waste by a torrent coming apparentlyfrom the naked rocks; trees and soil were strewed in every direction. Clay-slate is common. 

I should have mentioned that Dicksonia occurs at 4000 feet, as well as(Camellia) _Bunfullup_, after that the former ceases. The two Sauraujaof Suddiya continue up to 4000 feet of elevation; on the first ascent Iobserved a large Thistle, but out of flower. No cultivation was passedafter surmounting the first ascent; we passed the remains of a stockadeon the 4th, in which some Singphos had on a previous inroad stockadedthemselves. The hills are generally covered with tree jungle, exceptoccasionally on the north side where they have probably at some earlyperiod, been cleared for cultivation. To this may be added the curiousappearance of the trees indicating having been lopped. 

Equisetum continues in the bed of the river. Nothing like a pine wasobserved. 

_March 5th_. --Proceeded in an E. S. E. Direction towards Kamyoom for adistance of four miles, where we met Dr. Bayfield. As we found from himthat it was impossible to go on, as there were no rice coolies, etc. Tobe obtained, we returned to our halting place; where I remained chieflyfrom supposing that the Meewoon will start less objections when he seesthat I am in his territory without coolies, etc. Fished in theafternoon. The Bookhar, or large Barbel already mentioned, stillcontinues; but there is another species still more common, of a longerform, ventral fins reddish, mouth small, nose gibbous rough; {66} ittakes a fly greedily, and is perhaps a more game fish than the other. Allthe birds inhabiting the water-courses of the north side of the Patkayecontinue. Barking Deer are heard occasionally. 

Gathered one fine Bleteoidia Orchidea, racemis erectis oblongis, sepalispetalisque fusco-luteis, arcte reflexis, labello albido, odore fortimellis. Engelhardtia occurs here, Pentaptera, Wallichia, Calamus, Saccharum, etc. 

_March 7th_. --To-day the Meewoon arrived, accompanied by perhaps 200people chiefly armed with spears; he was preceded by two gilt chattas. Hemade no objections to my remaining, and really appeared verygood-natured. The first thing he did, however, was to seize ashillelagh, and thwack most heartily some of his coolies who remained tosee our conference. He did not stay ten minutes. 

_March 8th_. --To-day I examined superficially the ovary and young fruitof Ceratostemma variegatum, Roxb. The placenta which is very green, is 5-rayed. The substance of the walls of the ovary which is thick and white, projects towards the axis not only between the lobes, but also oppositeto each; so that the fruit is really 10-celled, but 5 of the cells arespurious. The production opposite the placentae necessarily divides theovula of one placenta into two parcels, and these are they that have noadhesion with the axis. At present I can say nothing about the relativesite of the lobes of the placentae, otherwise there is nothingremarkable, beyond the production of the ovary opposite the lobes of theplacentae. 

_March 12th_. --Yesterday evening Bayfield returned alone, leavingHannay on the Patkaye, unable to come on or retreat, owing to his havingno coolies. It was decided, that there was no other step left me tofollow than going on to Ava, and I thus am enabled to obey the letter ofGovernment, relative to my going to Ava, which reached me on the 10th bythe Havildar. The Meewoon can give me no assistance towards returning, although he will spare me a few men to carry me on to Mogam. For thelast three days I have been indisposed. Altitude 2138 by the Therm. Temp. 208 degrees, at which water boils. 

_March 13th_. --Left and proceeded down the Kamyoom, or properly Kam-mai-roan, according to Bayfield, in an E. S. E. Direction for about sevenmiles, when we reached the previous halting place of Dr. Bayfield. Wepassed before arriving at this a small Putar on which were some remainsof old habitations; on it limes abound, and these are a sure test ofinhabitation at some previous period. 

The vegetation continues precisely the same as that of the Namtucheek, even to Podostemon Griffithianum, which I to-day observed for the firsttime. 

_March 14th_. --Proceeded on, still keeping for the chief part of ourmarch along the Kammiroan. We left this very soon, and crossed some lowhills on which the jungles presented the same features. We left thevillage Kammiroan to our right. We did not see it, but I believe itconsists of only two houses. Passed through one khet, the firstcultivated ground we saw after leaving that on the Kamchick; then we cameon to a few more Putars, in which limes continue abundant. On these Ifind no less than three species of Rubus; in those parts on which ricehas been cultivated a pretty fringed Hypericum likewise occurs, and theseare the most interesting plants that have presented themselves. Ourcourse improved much yesterday; it extended E. By S. , and was rather lessthan seven miles. Halted at Kha-thung-kyoun, where the Meewoon hadhalted, and where the Dupha Gam had remained some time previous. Thesame vegetation occurs, Engelhardtia, Gleichenia _major_ longe scandens, Equisetum both species, Euphorbiacea nereifolia, Dicksonia rare, Scleriavaginis alatis, Plantago media, Zizania ciliaris, Melastoma malabathrica, Lycium arenarum, Duchesnia indica, Mazus rugosus, the Suddiya Viburnum, Millingtonia pinnata, Pentaptera, Erythrina; an arboreous Eugenia fol. Magnis, abovatis, is however new, and Polypodium Wallichianum whichoccurred to-day growing on clay-slate. But considering the elevation atwhich we still remain to be tolerably high, the products both of thevegetable and animal kingdom are comparatively uninteresting. There aremore epiphytical Orchideae on the south sides of these hills, than thenorth. Musci and Hepaticae are common, but do not embrace a great amountof species. Machantia asamica is common. Another new tree I found isprobably a Careya or Barringtonia; the young inflorescence is nearlyglobular, and clothed with imbricated scales. Sedgewickia hasdisappeared. No tea was seen. There is but little doubt that on hills, the ranges of which rise gradually, the acclimatization of low plants maytake place to such a degree, that such plants may be found at highelevations; can they however so far become acclimated, as topreponderate? I expected of course to find the same plants on both sidesof the hills, but I did not expect to find Rottlerae, Fici, tree-ferns, etc. , at an elevation of 4000 feet and upwards. 

The fish of the streams continue the same, as well as the birds. TheOuzel, white and black, long-tailed Jay, white-headed Redstart, red-rumped ditto, all continue. Water Wagtails were seen to-day. Thisbird is uncommon in hill water-courses; one snipe was seen yesterday. Ooloocks (Hylobates agilis), continue as in Assam. With regard to fish, both species of Barbel occur; {68} the most killing bait for the largeone, or Bookhar of the Assamese, is the green fucus, which is common, adhering to all the stones in these hill-streams: it is difficult to fixit on the hook. The line should be a running one, and not leaded, andthe bait may be thrown as a fly. To it the largest fish rise mostgreedily; plenty of time must be allowed them to swallow before onestrikes, otherwise no fish will be caught. All the same Palms continueexcept Calami, Areca, and Wallichiana. 

Balsamineae are uncommon. There is one however, although rare, probablythe same as the bright crimson-flowered one of the Meerep Panee. Urticeaehave diminished; the Suddiya Viola occurred yesterday, the Asplenium, fronde lanceolat. Continues common. 

_March 14th_. --Halted. Water boiled 209 degrees. Temp. 59 and 60degrees. Elevation 1622 feet. 

_March 15th_. --Left the Meewoon about 8, and proceeded about 100 yardsup the Khathing. Thence we struck off, and commenced the ascent, whichcontinued without intermission for some hours, the whole way lyingthrough heavy tree jungle. Ascent in some places very steep. Onreaching the summit, or nearly so, the jungle became more open, and theroute continued along the ridge. We then descended for 50 feet, andhalted on an open grassy spot where we ascertained the altitude to be5516 feet. Boiling point 202 degrees. Temperature of the air 63degrees. The vegetation increased in interest; I noticed near theKhathing, Buddleia neemda, Pladera Justicioidea, which continues howeverall along even to 5000 feet. Thunbergia coccinea, Chondrospermum, Dicksonia; near and on the summit Magnoliae and two or three Cupuliferae, Daphne Strutheoloides, nobis, Gymnostomum involutum, Berberis pinnata, the same as the Khasiya one, but scarce. Laurinea arborea, Bambusamonogynia, Rubus moluccanus: Frutex Ruscordeus, Loranthus, Anthistiriaarundinacea, Melastoma, Cyathea, Compositae, Conyzoideae two or three, Correas one, Hedychium, Eurya, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Lycopodiumceranium, Hoya teretifolia, Acanthaceae two or three, Bucklandia. 

We thence descended, and after a longish march reached the Natkaw Kyown, and finally halted on the Khusse Kyown. During this portion I gatheredsome very interesting plants, a new Ceratostemma, Adamia, two or threeOrchideae, a beautiful large flowered Cyrtandracea, the same Daphne, anUmbellifera. Vaccineaceae, four species of Begoniae, a Viburnum. Crawfurdia and Polypodium Wallichianum, which roofed in our shed; Musciincreased as well as Succulent Urticeae in shady places. Smilacinae werecommon, especially one at elevations of from 3 to 5000 feetinflorescentia cernua. The features are the same, the drier woodscrowning the ridges. On the trees of these, Orchideae and Filices arecommon, as well as in low parts in which Acanthaceae abound. I saw no_Betee-bhans_ nor Deo-bhans, (peculiar bamboos). Of the above, Ceratostemma, Daphane, Smilacinae, Cyathea, some of the Begoniae, thelarge flowered Cyrtandraceae, Umbelliferae are sure indications ofconsiderable elevation. The course was nearly south. Distance about 13miles. Thermometer in boiling water 206 degrees. Temperature of the air50. 5 degrees. Halting place, 3516. 

_March 16th_. --Started before breakfast, and reached the Khusee Kyoungwithout any material descent. Thence we continued descending on thewhole considerably until we reached Namthuga, at 10 A. M. Thence thedescent increased. Halted on Kullack Boom. General direction S. ;distance 13 miles. Noticed Areca up to 3800 feet, as well asCheilosandra obovata, Bletea melleodora, and Begonia palmata as high as3000 feet. 

At Namthuga a Sambucus, probably S. Ebulus, a Mimosa, Pothos decursiva, Hedychium, Urtica urens, Gleichenia major, Tradescanthia panicularis. Between this and Kullack Boom Acanthaceae are the most common; Paederiatriphylla appears near the Boom, together with Arum viviparum. BlackPheasants were likewise heard on our route. On the open halting place, grasses preponderate. Anthestiria arundinacea, arbusculous Gordonia, andSaurauja, a Laurinea, Styrax, etc. AEsculus asamicus is common, andprofusely in flower, and Pteris as on Thuma-thaya; Musa glauca made itsappearance. From this open space an extensive view is obtained ofHookhoom valley, bounding which occurs a range of hills stretching E. S. E. And W. N. W. These in the centre present a gap in which a river is seenrunning S. The view to the E. Is impeded by the trees on that face ofthe hill. The valley is as usual one mass of jungle, with here and thereclear patches occurring, especially to the W. Of S. , but whether fromcultivation or not, I am unable to say. The Namlunai river is visible;winding excessively, especially to the E. S. E. , it appears a considerablestream with much sand: it passes out towards the gap above alluded to, winding round the corner of the hills. 

During the 16th, my attention was particularly directed towards Tea, which was said positively to exist. I obtained some of the bitter sort, or _Bunfullup_, but the plant which was pointed out to me as teacertainly was not, although resembling it a good deal. There is noreason for supposing, that it exists on these hills, and if tea isbrought hence, it is I should think a spurious preparation. The soil isin many places yellow, in many brick-dust coloured. If the Tea existedin abundance, I must have seen it. 

The hills which confine the valley, at least those which are obviousoutliers of the Patkaye range, are characterised by conical peaks, andthere is a bluff rock of good elevation to the W. S. W. . 5 S. 

[Valley of Hookhoom: p71. Jpg]

_March 17th_. --Boiled water at 206 degrees Fahr. Thermometer in theair 61 degrees. Elevation 3270. Commenced the descent, which continuedwithout interruption to the Loon-karankha, where we breakfasted. The bedof this, which is a mere mountain torrent, is of sandstone. HereCeratostemma variegatum is very common, and has larger, broader and moreobovate leaves, than before observed; Polypodium Wallichianum, a Begoniaand Orchideae are common on its boulders. Continued our course at firstup a considerable ascent, thence it was nearly an uniform descent. Crossed the Namtuwa, along which our course lay for a short time. Thelatter part was through low wet jungle, along small water-courses, tillwe reached the Panglai Kha, along which we continued for some time. Reached our halting place on the Namtuseek about 2 P. M. Generaldirection E. S. E. ; distance about ten miles. Noticed PodostemonGriffithianum, on rocks on the Namtuwa. My collector gathered oneDaphne, Acanthus Solanacea occurred very abundantly, corinfundib. Labsuper postico, infer reflexo, laciniis bifidis. Low down observed theusual Dipterocarpus, Uncaria and Kaulfussia asamica, Dracaena. Mesuaferrea occurred during the first part of the march. Noticed the tracksof a Rhinoceros. At 5 P. M. Water boiled at 210 degrees. Temperature 69degrees. Elevation 1099 feet. 

The most interesting plants were an Arum, an undescribed Ceratostemma, and a Celastrinea. 

The collection formed between this place and Suddiya now amount to about500 species. The vegetation of the lower portions is the same, or nearlyso, on either side of the hills; but I did not observe near this thePolypodium ferrugineum arboreum, although there is a small arborescentspecies of this genus. On either side, the lower ranges are clothed withheavy wet tree jungle, the under-shrubs consisting of Acanthaceae, Rubiaceae, Filices, Aroideae, and Urticeae; Kaulfussia does not ascend sohigh on this side. Acanthacea solanacea appears peculiar to this side, although there is a species of the genus on the Kammiroan. 

The plants indicating the greatest elevation are Acer, Ceratostemmaminiatum, and angulatum, Vacciniaceae; Daphne, particularly the Patkayeone, and D. Struthioloides, most of the Smilacineae, Berberis, etc. Etc. Bucklandia Crawfurdii, Begoniae, some Viburnia, Cyathea, etc. OfCeratostemma (Gay Lussacium?) several, perhaps not less than sevenspecies occur; all have the same habit, and the same depot of nourishmentin the thick portion near the _collet_. No Coniferae exist, although theelevation is more than sufficient to determine their appearance. InOrchideae the flora is certainly very rich, but few species are in flower

(_Memo_. To compare these elevational plants with those from the Mishmeehills, on which, speaking from memory, they are more abundant. )

_March 18th_. --Left at half-past 6, and arrived (after halting aboutone hour and a half) at 3 P. M. The road was very circuitous, for thefirst part E. By S. , subsequently for some time N. N. E. , and even N. E. ;the general direction is perhaps E. ; the distance certainly 18 miles. Thegreater part of the route lay through heavy but dryish tree jungle; butduring the latter half, and especially towards Nempean, Putars orcultivated fields increased in number, and extent. We crossed one streamonly. The soil is yellow and deep, occasionally inclining to brick-red;it is apparently much the same as that of Muttack. The low spots wereuncommon. We saw only two paths diverging from ours; one of these led toBone, which is about two miles from our path, in a south direction, andat no great distance from the Namtuseek. 

The features of the country and its productions are much the same asthose of Upper Assam, indeed strikingly so. During the earlier part ofour march we observed a fine Shorea in abundance; it had a noble straightstem, but the leaves were too small for Saul. The only new plants Ifound were Styrax floribus odoris, ligno albo close grained, arbormediocris, a Baeobotrys, two Goodyerae, a Laurinea, Sparganium!Tabernaemontana fructibus magnis, edulibus, fol. Obovatis, and a speciesof Shorea. 

I noticed the following plants in the following order from Namtuseek:Dicksonia, Areca, Calamus, Bambusa, speculis pubescentibus, deformatis, aspecies of Phrynium, Pladera justicioides, Chrysobaphus Roxburghii, Phyllanthus, Embilica, a species of Wendlandia common in places thatappeared to have been formerly cleared; Gnetum lepidotum, Celastrinea_foliis Leguminosarum_, Bombax (inerme) Saccharum Megala, Imperatacylindica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Ingae sp. , Sauraujae sp. Entada, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Blechnum orientale, Baeobotrys, Meniscium3-phyllum, Sonerila, Acanthus leucostachys, Diplazium of Kujoo, _Podomolee_, Saccharum foliis apice spiraliter tortis, Osbeckia, Rottlera, Lygodium, Rubus moluccanus, Centotheca, Zizania ciliaris, Violaasamica, Potamogeton nutans, foliis linearibus, Limnophila, Pontederiadilatata, Lobelia Zeylanica, Hypericum venustum. Panax foliis supradecompositis spinosis, Callicarpae 2 spec, Duchesnea indica, Combretum, Melica latifolia, Magus rugosus, Vandellia peduncularis, Villarsiapumila, Artocarpus integrifolius, Piper, Lagerstraemia grandiflora, Roxb. Dillenia speciosa, Spathodea. All these exist in Assam. 

The birds are the same. As for instance, common Maina, Doves, the Picusof low swampy places, and the _Lark_ of the plains of Assam. Squirrel, ventre ferrugineo. Black Pheasant, _Phasianus leucomelanus_, Laurineae, Acanthaceae, Rubiacea and Filices, are common in the jungles. 

The Putars are clothed with the same grasses as in Assam. Imperatacylindrica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Megala in low places with AlpineaAllughas, in those lately under cultivation, the Campanula of the B. Pooter occurs, together with Hypericum, Gnaphalium, Poa and Carex. 

From the frequent occurrence of these Putars, I should say that thecapabilities of the country, at least the latter half of our march, improves as far as regards _halee_ cultivation. 

Throughout the march nothing occurred to shew that this part of thevalley is inhabited. We passed, however, an old and extensive buryingground of the Singphos. Of the Putars only small portions werecultivated, and the crops did not appear to be very good. 

Nempean, which is a stockaded village, is about a quarter of a mile fromthe encampment of the Meewoon, and about S. E. , and within 200 yards tothe N. N. E. Is a similar stockaded village called Tubone. Both thesevillages are on the right bank of the Namturoon, which is a large stream, as big nearly as the Noa Dihing at Beesa. B. Measured it, and finds itsextreme bed to be 270 yards broad. The volume of water is considerable, the rapids are moderate; it is navigable for largish canoes. On thisbank, _i. E_. Right, there is an extensive plain running nearly N. AndS. ; no part of it seems to be cultivated. The scenery is precisely thesame as that of Upper Assam, viz. Open, flat, intersected by belts ofjungle. With the exception of the W. And the points between this andsouth, hills are visible, some of considerable height. To the S. E. Thereis a fine peak, which reminds one much of the Mishmee peak, so remarkableat Suddiya. It is in this direction that the hills are highest. 

No tea is reported to exist here. B. Met with it on his road hither, andshewed me the specimen; there is no difference between this and the Assamspecimens in appearance, neither are the leaves at all smaller. As a newroute has been cut out I cannot visit it, but shall wait until I arriveat Meinkhoom. 

The Chykwar Mulberry occurs, and to a larger size than I have seen it inAssam. The Singphos, however, as they have no silkworms, do not make useof it; I have seen some little cultivation on the Tooroon belonging toBon: Kanee or Opium formed portion of it. 

Thermometer in shade at 2 P. M. 85 degrees. 

_March 21st_. --7 A. M. Thermometer 60 degrees. Yesterday at 2 P. M. 86degrees! under a decently covered shed. 

Boiled water at 209. 5 Fahr. Thermometer 70 degrees, which gives 1399feet of elevation. 

Started at 9, and arrived at Kidding on the Saxsai, a small stream whichnow falls into the Tooroon. Distance about four miles and a half fromNempean: general direction about S. S. E. The road runs along the TooroonS. , and a little to the W. Of S. ; it then diverges up the Saxsai, whichruns nearly W. And E. Near the mouth of the Saxsai, and about 400 yardsabove, there is another small stream, the Jinnip Kha. Both these are onthe left bank of the river. On the opposite side, and about a quarter ofa mile, is a village, which like all the rest is stockaded. Kidding islarger than either Tubone or Nempean; it is on the left bank of theSaxsai. Rapids are common in the Tooroon, but are not of any severity. 

The vegetation remains in a remarkable degree similar to that of Assam. The Lohit Campanula is very common in the stony beds of either river. 

Brahminy Ducks seen at Nempean, and the ravenous Geese of Kamroop Putar. Fished in the Tooroon, and had excellent sport, killing in the afternoontwenty fishes, average weight half pound; some weighing nearly twopounds. Three species occurred, and all were taken with flies; thesmallest are a good deal like the _Boal_ of Assam. The large-mouthed, trout-like Cyprinida {74a} occurs, and to a larger size than in the NoaDihing. The third is the _Chikrum_ of the Singphos; it is a thick, verypowerful fish, a good deal resembling the Roach: one of two pounds, measures about a foot in length. Outline ovate lanceolate, head small, mouth with four filaments; eyes very large, fins reddish, first ray ofthe dorsal large spinous. It affects deep water, particularly at theedges of the streams running into such places. {74b} It takes a flygreedily even in quite still water; but as it has a small mouth, thesmaller the flies the better. Black hackle is better for it than smallgrey midges. On being hooked it rushes off with violence, frequentlyleaping out of the water. It is a much more game fish than the Bookhar:the largest I took with flies; with worms I took only one small one. Withregard to the Bookhar, it is strange if it is not found in the streamsrunning through this valley, as in the Kammaroan it occurs in abundance. 

Black and white Kingfisher, _Alcedo rudis_, Snippets, Curlews of the B. Pooter, with chesnutish back occur in the valley, together with Toucans:and Ravens occur as in Assam. 

At the village of Kidding there are silkworms fed. 

_March 22nd_. --Started at 6 P. M. , reached Shelling khet on the ProngProngkha in about two hours; it is distant about seven miles. Thevillage is now deserted. The nullah is small, with a very slow stream;direction from Kidding nearly S. E. It was at this place that Bayfieldgot his specimen of tea, but on enquiry we found that it was brought fromsome distance; it is said to grow on a low range of hills. We startedafter breakfast, and reached Culleyang, on the same nullah, about 12o'clock. Total distance thirteen miles; direction S. S. E. Path verywinding. The country traversed is much less open than that of Nempean, but few Putars occurred; and the whole tract is covered either with treeor Megala jungle. Water boiled at Shelling khet at 209. 5 Fahr. Temp. Ofthe air 68. 5 degrees. Elevation 1340 feet. Noticed but very littleclearing for cultivation, neither did the Putars appear to have beenlately under cultivation. 

Culleyang is a village containing about eight houses; it is notstockaded, and has the usual slovenly appearance of Singpho villages. Thenatives keep silkworms, which they feed on the Chykwar or Assam morus, which they cultivate. I noticed likewise Kanee, or Opium, and Urticanivea, which they use for nets; Acanthaceae, Indigofera, and Peach trees. 

Close to the village are the burying places of two Singphos. These havethe usual structure of the cemeteries of the tribe, the graves beingcovered by a high conical thatched roof. I find from Bayfield, that theyfirst dry their dead, preserving them in odd shaped coffins, until thedrying process is completed. They then burn the body, afterwardscollecting the ashes, which are finally deposited in the mounds overwhich the conical sheds are erected. Between the village and the gravesI saw one of these coffins which, if it contained a full-grown man, musthave admitted the remains in a mutilated shape; and close to this werethe bones of a corpse lately burnt. 

To-day I shot the beautiful yellow and black crested Bird we first saw onthe Cossiya hills, _Parus Sultaneus_, and two handsome Birds, _Orioles_, or _Pastor Traillii_, quite new to me, blackish and brightcrimson, probably allied to the Shrikes. 

Of fishes, Cyprinus falcata, or _Nepoora_ of the Assamese, together withthe Sentooree {75} of the Assamese, both occur. Of plants, we noticedStauntonia, Vitis, Cissampelos, Butomus pygmaeus, Dicksonia, Hedychia 2, Croton Malvaefolium of Suddiya, Xanthium indicum; Cheilosandraferruginea, Pothos scandens decursiva, etc. , Liriodendrum, Kydia. Ficuselastica? Asplenium nidus, Conyza graveolens, south of the oldclearings. Lemna, Valisneria, Azolla, AEsculus asamicus in abundance. Limes in profusion near Culleyang; Paederia faetida and the otherspecies, Naravelia, Hiraea, Phrynium dichotomum, Gaertnera, and Carallialucida. New plants, Ophioglossum, Carex, Gnetum sp. Nov. Choripetalum, and two _incerta_. Noticed Pladera justicioides during the first part ofthe march, and the small Squirrel of Kujoodoo. 

Six A. M. Temperature 58. 5. Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. 8 P. M. Temperature of the air 66. Altitude 1064 feet. 

_March 23rd_. --Started at 6 A. M. And reached Lamoom about 8, where webreakfasted. Reached Tsilone, the Dupha's village, at noon. Generaldirection S. W. Distance about ten miles. Lamoom is a small_un_stockaded village on the Moneekha. Tsilone is a moderate sizedSingpho village on the right bank of the Nam Tunail. The river is ofconsiderable size, with scarcely any rapids: stream slow. The village issituated on a rather high bank. 

The country continues the same, perhaps a little more open, at leastPutars are of frequent occurrence, although they are all narrow. ObservedCryptolepis, Celastrus _leguminoideus_ Cuscuta Uncaria racemis pendulis. Of birds the smaller Maina, common house Sparrow, blue Jay, and thelarger grey Tern occur. We halted on a sandbank about one mile and ahalf higher up to the south of Tsilone. New plants, the Campanula ofChykwar, ditto Lysimachia, Dopatrium, Jasminum, Rhamnea, Pothos, Lasia, Riccia, etc. 

_March 24th_. --Thermometer 58 degrees. Boiling point 210. Altitude1064 feet. After a long and hot march of seven hours we reachedMeinkhoon; general direction -- distance 17 miles. During the first twohours we marched along the bed and banks of the Nam Tenai, subsequentlyover grassy plains intersected by belts of jungle. Country much moreopen than that we saw yesterday. To the W. Low ranges of hills, aboutone-third of a mile distant, occurred throughout the day. We passed twoor three small nullahs, in one of which I observed lumps of lignite. 

The Nam Tenai continued a large river, extreme breadth varying from 250to 350 yards. We crossed at once, about half a mile from our encampment, deepest part of the ford four feet; its banks are either thickly woodedor covered with Kagara jungle. The day's march was very uninteresting. Iobserved a few Mango trees, a Mucuna, Laurineae are common, as well as aWendlandia in open grassy places. Sagittariae sp. Was the only novelty. Noticed the Hoopoe bird, _Upapa Capensis_. 

[Meinkhoom: p76. Jpg]

_March 25th_. --Meinkhoon is situated on a very small nullah, theEedeekha. The village which is large and well stockaded, is divided intotwo by this nullah. The population of both cannot, including children, be less than 200. They belong to the Meerep tribe. The women wear the_putsoe_ somewhat like those of Burma, which seems to me quite new inSingpho women; and is not the fashion with those in Assam. To the S. W. There is a group of somewhat decayed Shan Pagodas, and a Poonghie house, around which are planted mango trees and a beautiful arboreous Bauhinia, B. Rhododendriflora mihi, ovariis binis! Around the village is anextensive plain, and to the S. E. One or two more Pagodas. This Bauhiniahas flowers 1. 5 inches across, calyx spathaceus, petalis, sub-conformibus, obovatis, repandis laete purpureis, vexillo coccineo-purpureo, colore saturate venoso, carinae petalis distantibus, odorCopaivae! Stam. 5 declinata, cum petalis, alternantia. Ovaria 2!anticum posticumque, longe stipetata, difformia superiore minore, aborticate, ambobus vexillo oppositis! Stylus ruber pallide; stigmacapitatum. One B. Variegata, W. Roxb. Fl. Indic. Vol. Ii. P. 319, quamvisauctor de ovario antico silet. 

Two snakes were captured, approaching in shape to the green snake of theCoromandel Coast. Under surface throughout bright gamboge colour; uppersurface throughout, excepting about a span or less of the back of theneck, bright ochraceous brown. The space above alluded to is in onefaintly, in the other strongly variegated with black and white. Irides, gamboge-coloured. 

_March 26th_. --Visited the amber mines, which are situated on a rangeof low hills, perhaps 150 feet above the plain of Meinkhoon, from whichthey bear S. W. The distance of the pits now worked is about six miles, of which three are passed in traversing the plain, and three in the lowhills which it is requisite to cross. These are thickly covered withtree jungle. The first pits, which are old, occur about one mile withinthe hills. Those now worked occupy the brow of a low hill, and on thisspot they are very numerous; the pits are square, about four feet indiameter, and of very variable depth; steps, or rather holes, are cut intwo of the faces of the square by which the workmen ascend and descend. The instruments used are wooden-lipped with iron crowbars, by which thesoil is displaced; this answers but very imperfectly for a pickaxe: smallwooden shovels, baskets for carrying up the soil, etc. , buckets of barkto draw up the water, bamboos, the base of the rhizoma forming a hook fordrawing up the baskets, and the Madras lever for drawing up heavy loads. 

The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of 15 to 20feet, is red and clayish, and appears to inclose but small pieces oflignite; the remainder consists of greyish slate clay increasing indensity as the pits do in depth: in this occur strata of lignite veryimperfectly formed, which gives the grey mineral a slaty fracture, andamong this the amber is found. {78} The deepest pit was about 40 feet, and the workmen had then come to water. All the amber I saw, except afew pieces, occurred as very small irregular deposits, and in no greatabundance. The searching occupies but little time, as they look onlyamong the lignite, which is at once obvious. No precautions are taken toprevent accidents from the falling in of the sides of the pits, which arein many places very close to each other (within two feet): but the soilis very tenacious. 

We could not obtain any fine specimens; indeed at first the workmendenied having any at all, and told Mr. B. That they had been working forsix years without success. They appear to have no index to favourablespots, but having once found a good pit they of course dig as many aspossible as near and close together as they can. The most numerous occurat the highest part of the hill now worked. The article is much prizedfor ornaments by the Chinese and Singphos, but is never of much value;five rupees being a good price for a first-rate pair of earrings. Meinkhoon is visited by parties of Chinese for the purpose of procuringthis article. There are at present here a Lupai Sooba and a few men, from a place three or four days' journey beyond the Irrawaddi, waitingfor amber. These men are much like the Chinese, whose dress they almostwear: they squat like them, and wear their hair like them; shoes, stockings, pantaloons, jackets, tunic. They are armed chiefly withfirelocks, in the use of which at 50 yards two of the men were expertenough. They talk the Singpho language. 

The vegetation of the plains, proceeding to the mines, is unchanged. Noticed Apluda, a Phyllanthus, Cacalia, Poa, etc. That of the hills isthe same as that of the low ranges before traversed. The only new plantswere a Celtis? a Krameria (the Celtis is the Boolla of Upper Assam, )Ventilago, Quercus or Castanea, Compositae, etc. In the damp places alargish Loxotis, two or three Begoniae, ditto Urticeae occur. I noticedamong and around the pits a species of Bambusa, Celtis, Kydia calycina, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Calamus, Areca, Dicksonia, Ficus, Pentaptera, and Rottlera. Pladera has ceased to appear. 

Last night a sort of alarm occurred, and in consequence, this evening, the head cooly gave his orders to his men in the following terms: "Watchto-night well. " Nobody answering him, he continued, "Do you hear what Isay?" Then addressed himself to them in the most obscene terms, whichhabit and uncivilized life seem to have adapted to common conversationamongst these people without any breach of modesty or decorum; andamongst the Assamese such expressions likewise form not an uncommon modeof familiar salutation. 

_March 27th_. --Left about 7, and proceeded over the Meinkhoon plain inan easterly direction, in which the highest hills visible from thevillage lay. We continued east for some time, our course subsequentlybecoming more and more south. On reaching the Nempyokha, we proceeded upits bed for about two miles, the course occasionally becoming west. Wereached Wollaboom at 12. 5. General direction S. E. ; distance thirteenmiles. The greater part of the country traversed consisted of lowplains, splendidly adapted for _halee_ cultivation. No villages werepassed. Saw two paths, one leading to the N. , one to the S. Not far fromMeinkhoon; of these the N. One leads to the hills, the S. To a Singphovillage. And we passed burial places of some antiquity, and considerableextent. New plants; a Loranthus floribus viridibus, petalis 6 reflexis. Zizyphoidea, and an arborescent Bignonia foliis cordatis oppositis, integris, basi bi-glandulosis, paniculis racemiformibus, solitariis etaxillaribus vel terminalibus et aggregatis. Marlea Sporobolus, Castaneaedulis, Pteris dimediata, etc. , occurred. Noticed the tracks of a Tiger, of Elks, and the Peewit or Curlew. 

Woollaboom is rather a large village on the Nempyokha, which is herescarcely 40 yards broad; it is of no depth, and has not much stream. Thevillagers are Meereps, but seem to bear a small proportion to theirAssamese slaves. It is not stockaded, but was so formerly. The Souba, like a Hero and a General, has erected a small stockade for himself nearhis house, out of which he might be with ease forced by a long spear, ora spear-head fastened to a bamboo. He is an enemy of the Duphas, indeedalmost all appear to be so. Whatever events the return of this Gam toAssam may cause, it appears obvious to me, that the feuds in Hookhoomwill not cease but with his death. So much is he hated, that B. Informsme that his destruction is meditated directly the Meewoon retires toMogam. 

Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. Elevat. 1064 feet. 

List of Plants observed in Hookhoom, which occur likewise in Assam. 

Eclipta floribus albis, Dactylon. Pogonatherum crinitum, Cardamine. Verbena chamaedrys? Sisymbrium. Phlebochiton extensum, Gaertnera. Ehretia arenarum, Phrynium capitatum. Erythrinae, sp. ----- dichotomum. Trematodon sabulosum, Hiraea. Marchantia asamica, Naravalia. Euphorbiacea nerifolia, Liriodendrum. Adelia nereifolia, Roxb. Paederia foetida, and another. Spilanthus, Azolla. Convolvulus flore albo, Lemna. Mimosa sudiyensis-stipulis am- Conyza graveolens, plis foliaceis, on clearings. Vandellia pedunculata, Asplenium nidus. Bonnayae sp. Fol. Spathulatis Ficus elastica. Floribus saturate caeruleis, Kydia calycina. Cordia of Suddiya, Pothos scandens. Ricinus communis, (See Journal, Croton malvaefolium. P. 174. ) Hedychium. Buddleia Neemda, Hedychim, bracteis obtusis, apice reflexis, concavis. Urtica gigas, Plantago media, Dicksonia. Cotula, 2 species, Phlogacanthus, _major_. Coladium nympheaefolium, Vitis. Millingtonia pinnata, Butomus pygmaeus. Uricariae sp. Cissampelos. Saccharum spontaneum, Stauntonia. Eleusine indica, Apludae sp. Cynoglossum canescens, Clerodendrum infortunatum. AEsculus asamicus, Vandellia pedunculata. Cynodon, Mangifera indica. Ardisia fol. Obovatis, umbellis Briedelia. Nutanti-pendulis, on the hills. Marlea. Cheilosandra. Pteris dimidiata. Loxotis major. Centotheca. Bauhinia variegata. Castanea edulis. Cacalia rosea. Sporobolus. 

CHAPTER V. 

_Continues the Journey from Hookhoom Valley_; _Lat_. _26__degrees 20' N_. , _Long_. _96 degrees 40' E_. , _towards Ava_. 

_March 28th_. --Started at 5. 5 A. M. , and arrived at a halting place at3. 5 P. M. General direction nearly south. Distance 22 miles. Throughoutthe first part we followed the Kampyet, on the left bank of whichWulloboom is situated. We thence diverged into jungle. The remainder ofthe time was occupied in crossing low hills, with here and there a smallplain. We halted on a nullah, which discharges itself into the Mogamriver. 

In the Kampyet I saw abundance of Bookhar fish: these indeed actuallyswarm. The country throughout was uninteresting, although in the treejungle clothing the small hills we crossed there are noble timber trees. I saw one of the finest Fici, I ever saw. The Botany of these hills wasvery interesting; for instance, a Conifera taxoidea occurred, a newCyrtandracea, ditto Acanthaceae 2, Begoniae 2, Tankervillia speciosa, aspecies of Bletea, etc. Etc. 

I also observed Lindsaea, and Pteris in abundance. Hymenophyllum, Davallia atrata, Diplazium, Begonia Malabarica? Bambusa spiculishispidis, Hypni sp. Spinivenio prop. Dicranum glaucum, etc. Etc. A fineAlpinia occurred near Wulloboom. 

We observed no other signs of population than an old burial ground, nearwhere you strike off into the hills. 

_March 29th_. --Marched in a southerly direction from 5. 5 to 1. 5 P. M. , inclusive of a halt of two hours nearly: distance fifteen miles. Country, etc. Continue the same. Crossed same nullahs _en route_, before wereached the Mogam river at 11 A. M. Our course continued down it for 300yards; we then crossed into the jungle, and traversed a low risingground: subsequently we descended on the bed of the river. The junglewas for the most part dry. 

Fish abound in the Mogam river; in one place I never saw such swarms ofBookhar, thousands must have been congregated. The river is of no greatsize, the extreme banks being at our halting place about 30 yardsdistant. No rapids occur here, and the stream is in general gentle. 

Noticed the Shorea, which is the _Foung bein_ of the Burmese. Someoccurred of gigantic size. It is strange, but a considerable change hasoccurred in the Flora since we left Hookhoom. Thus, Jonesia andPeronema, Jack? or at least one of the involucrate Vitices occurred, aswell as a large Byttneria? fructibus echinatissimis. A climbing speciesof Strychnos, a Diospyros, a Sapindacea, were the principal new plants. Dicksonia and Polypodium Wallichianum continue. 

Slackia of Cuttackboom has white infundibuliform bilabiate flowers, tubobrevi, deorsum leniter curvato, lobo medio labii inferioris reliquisminore, lab. Super. Intus biplicato, plicis sursum convergentibus, stam. Quinto valde rudimentario, antheris apice cohaerentibus. The newCyrthandracea of yesterday is suigeneris, Ramondiae affinis. Of thisthere are three species, two of which I have not seen in flower. Calycislaciniae lineari-subulatae. Cor. Rotata, subregularis Stam. 4, subsessilia connectivis amplis, quinto minimo dentiformi. Stylusdeclinatus, Stigma subsimplex, Capsula (per junior) siliquosa. Herbaevel suffrutices, hispidae, habitu peculiari. Folia alterna! vel summasparsa vel ob approximationem sub-opposita: intervenia areolata, areolispiliferis, pilis basi bulbosis. Inflorescentia axillaris, cymosa, dichotoma. 

The Tankervellia (or Pharus?) has sepala pet. Conformia extus alba, intusfusco-brunnea, labellum cucullatum, breve, calcaratum; intus inconspicuebilamellatum; extus albidum margines versus exceptis qua uti intus fusco-sanguineum, fauce saturatiore. Columnae albae clavale sursum subulata. Anthera fere immersa, Rostellum integrum ut in omnibus glandula orbotisPollinia 8. 5 A. M. --Temperature 62. 210. 

_March 30th_. --Marched for about thirteen miles along the bed of theriver, and a more uninteresting march I never had. We breakfasted aboutfour miles from our halting place at the granary of the Meewoon. The bedof the river continues wider, and more sandy: the water being in generalshallow. The only acquisitions met with to-day are Grislea, anarborescent Capparidea, and a pretty Grewia. Of birds, I noticed theAvocet, or curved-billed Plover, the grey Kingfisher, the green Pigeon, and the snake-bird, Plutus Levalliantia. The plants occupying the banksand the bed of the river are the same, viz. Ehretia, Saccharumspontaneum, spirale; _Kagara_, Erythrina, Ficus, Gnaphalia, Podomolee, Bombax. Of fish, Cyprinus falcata, and _Nepoora mas_, occur in thisriver. 

Temperature at 5. 25 A. M. 6l. Water boils at 210. 

_March 31st_. --Continued our march down the Mogaung river, passingthrough a most uninteresting, inhospitable-looking tract. Generaldirection S. E. , distance fourteen miles. The river is not much enlarged:it is still shallow, and much spread out, and impeded by fallen trees andstumps; it is navigable for small boats up to the Meewoon's granary. Noticed AEsculus in flower. Of birds, saw the grey and black-belliedTern. 

The Botanical novelties are an arborescent Salix, a ditto Cordia floribussuave odoratis, Phyllanthus Embelica. 

Saw some cultivation on low hills to the S. E. And E. Inhabited byKukheens. 1st April. Temperature 63. Water 210. 25 altitude. 

_April 1st_. --Started at 5. 25. Leaving almost directly the Mogaungriver we traversed extensive open plains, halting for breakfast on theWampama Kioung. This we crossed, continuing through open plains until wecame to patches of jungle consisting of trees, and quite dry. Wesubsequently traversed more open plains until we reached the Mogaungriver, on the opposite (right) bank of which Camein is situated. Theseplains were in many places quite free from trees; they are, excepttowards the south, quite surrounded with low hills, the highest of whichare to the E. , and among these, Shewe Down Gyee, from which the Nam Tenairises, is pre-eminent, looking as if it were 3000 feet high, and upwards. The hills although generally wooded are in many places quite naked; andas the natives say, this is not owing to previous cultivations, I supposethat they are spots naturally occupied entirely by Gramineae. The plainsslope towards the hills on either side. They are covered with Gramineae;among which Imperata, occasionally Podomolee and Saccharum, Anthistiriaarundinacea, a tall Rottboelia, and Andropogon occur; and in the moreopen spaces a curious Rottboellioidea, glumis ciliatis, is common. Inaddition a Polygala, a Crucifera with bracteae and white flowers, anAcanthacea, Prenanthes? Centranthera tetrastachys are met with. Thetrees are quite different from those of Hookhoom; the principal one is aNauclea; Bombax, Wendlandiae sp. , a Rhamnea, Phyllanthus, and Bignoniacordifolia occur; the Nauclea giving a character to the scenery. TheBotany of the patches of jungle is varied. Strychnos Nux-vomica iscommon; Congea tomentosa, Engelhardtia, etc. Bauhinia arborea, andCostus also occur. 

Teak occurred to-day for the first time, but not in abundance, neitherwere the specimens fine: it was past flowering, it occurred only betweenthe patches of jungle among grass. I should have mentioned, thatthroughout the first portion of the plains traversed, a dioceous dwarfPhoenix was not rare, as well as an Herpestes. A beautiful Rose occurson the banks of nullahs, and at Camein, on the Mogaung river: it haslarge white flowers, involucrate; smell sweet like that of a Jonquil. 

The general direction of the march was S. S. E. Distance fourteen miles. 

Camein consists of two stockaded villages: the smaller one being situatedon a small hill on the Endaw Kioung, which comes from near the serpentinemines, and falls into the Mogaung river here; this has about twelvehouses: the one below about twenty, the inhabitants are Shans chiefly, and appear numerous and healthy. Assamese slaves are not uncommon. 

Observed the large blue Kingfisher of the Tenasserim coast, _Alcedo__sinensis_. 

The day's Botany was very interesting, more so than that of any otherdays, excepting two on the higher ranges of the Naga hills. TheCrucifera is highly interesting. In the woods Alstonia and Elephantopus;Salvinia is common in marshes. 

_April 2nd_. --Left at 10 A. M. , proceeding over the low hill to the W. Of lower Camein; our course continued traversing low ranges and smallintermediate plains, which we skirted. At noon we reached the Tsee Eennullah, where we found a large party of Shan Chinese, returning from themines; they had but few Ponies, and still fewer Mules. Their dress, appearance, habits, etc. Are those of the lower orders of Chinese. Afterleaving this our course continued over similar country, until we reachedthe Endaw Kioung at 3 P. M. , which we crossed, halting on its left bank;it is a stream of much strength and a broad bed, but shallow. We sawsome cultivation on low hills to the W. N. W. , and could distinguish two orthree houses; it is a small village inhabited by Meereps. 

The vegetation of the valleys or plains continues the same, but inaddition to the Rottboelleoidea minor, is a curious Andropogon, and onthe skirts of the hills a large Anthistiria; some of the finest specimensof teak also occurred. Bamboo in abundance; otherwise the trees are, with a few exceptions, completely changed. A fine arborescentWendlandia, Bignonia indica? fructibus siliquo-formibus spiralitertortis, arborea, Kydia, Eurya arborea, and many other fine treesoccurred, but these I leave until my return. On one plain I noticed aCycas, caudice simplici vel dichotomo, and the Phoenix of yesterday. Inthe Endaw Kioung two species of Potamogeton, Azolla, and Pistia, Villarsia and Ceratophyllum occur. 

_April 3rd_. --5. 25 A. M. Therm. 55. Water boiled at 210. Elevation1064 feet. 

Continued our journey over similar country, marching from half-past 5 to1 P. M. , including an hour's halt. Distance fifteen miles: generaldirection S. S. W. Passed many streamlets, and continued for some timeclose to the Endaw, which is still a largish river, apparently deep, witha sluggish stream. The plains continue, but of much narrower diameter. Met many Shan Chinese and two parties of Mogaung people returning fromthe mines. 

The most interesting plants of to-day are a Santalacea, a climbingspecies, racemis subpendulis, of Citrus--Citrus scandens, Cardiopteris ofwhich I found old fruit alone, a new Roydsia, R. Parviflora mihi. 

The vegetation of the plains continues unchanged, a Dillenia with smallyellow flowers is common on their skirts, Bignonia cordata occurs as alarge tree; no one has seen teak. There is something peculiar in theappearance of the trees of the plains, especially of the Nauclea; theylook scraggy. I picked up the flowers of an arborescent Hibiscus, andthe fruit of Lagertraemia grandiflora. 

Halted on an old rice khet, near a pool of tolerably clear water. 

Bignonia cordata has sweet smelling flowers, lab. Medio labii inferiorisbicristato. Is it not rather a Viticea, owing to the absence of the 5thstamen? Phlebochiton, Sambucus, Butomus pygmaeus. Many portions of thehills are covered with plantains in immense numbers, (not Musa glauca). On hills bounding to the south, one or two spots of cultivation belongingto a village in the interior occur. The Shans wear curious sandals madeof a sort of hemp, at least those who do not wear the usual Chineseshoes. _4th_. --5. 25 A. M. Temperature 55. 5. Water boiled at 210. Elevation as before. 

_April 4th_. --Continued our course through exactly the same kind ofcountry, the plains becoming much narrower. Reached the path leading toKeouk Seik after five hours' marching, and up to this our course wasnearly the same with that of yesterday, between W. S. W. And S. W. We didnot see the village; several (seven or eight) houses are visible on thehill, which here extends north and south, and along which runs a nullah, the Kam Theem. 

From this place our course continued almost entirely over low hills notexceeding 800 feet above us, until we halted on the margin of a plainbounded to the W. By the Boom, which runs N. And S. , the direction beingW. N. W. Distance seventeen miles. On our march we met several parties ofShans, Burmese, and Singphos. The path from the village to this is muchbetter, and much more frequented than any of the other parts. Most ofthe parties were loaded with Serpentine. Noticed _en route_, both onthe plains and on the hills, Teak; in the latter situations many of thespecimens were very fine. Another noble Dipterocarpea arborea wasobserved. I observed Drymaria, Vallaris solanacea, and a Spathodia, which is common on the plains. Teak is remarkable for the smoothness andpeculiar appearance of its bark, so that it seems to have had it strippedoff. 

Gathered on the hills Ulmus and Hyalostemma, the petals of which areunited into a tri-partite corolla, a Cyrtandracea in fruit, and anOlacinea, floribus tri-sepalis, appendicibus 6 apice fimbriatis, stam. 3, sepalis oppositis, racemis erectis. 

_April 5th_. --Reached the mines after a march of about four hours; ourcourse was winding, continuing through jungle and small patches of plain, until we reached the base of that part of the Kuwa Boom which we were tocross, and which bore N. W. From the place at which we slept. The ascentwas steep in some places, it bore in a N. N. W. Direction, principallythrough a bamboo jungle. From a clear space half way up, we had a fineand pretty view of the hills and plains, especially to the S. And S. E. Inthe former direction, and distant about fifteen miles, we saw on ourreturn, the Endaw Gyee, but we could not estimate its size or figure; itis evidently however a large sheet of water; the natives say, severalmiles across. From the summit, we likewise had a fine view of thecountry to the E. ; very few plains were visible in this direction. Nearlydue east, and about thirty miles off, was visible Shewe Down Gyee, andthis will make Camein nearly due east also, or E. By S. The descentpassed through similar jungle, that at the foot being damp. The coursecontinued in a direction varying from S. To W. , or rather between thesepoints, through damp jungle. We then ascended another steep hill, butnot exceeding 5 or 600 feet in height; descending from this, and passingthrough low tree and then bamboo jungle, we reached the mines. 

The road was, up to the base of Kuwa Boom on the W. Side, very good, thence it was in general bad; wet, slippery, much impeded by blocks ofserpentine, and foliated limestone (Bayfield) crossing several streams, mountain torrents, the principal one being Sapya Khioung. This takes itsname from a spring of water of alkaline properties, which bubbles upsparingly from under its rocky bed, and which must be covered during therains. The water is clear, of a pure alkaline taste, and is used by thenatives as soap. 

The mines occupy a valley of a somewhat semi-circular form, bounded onall sides by hills clothed with trees, none being of very great height. The valley passes off to the N. Into a ravine, down which the smallstream that percolates the valley escapes, and in this at about a cossdistant other pits occur. The surface of the valley apparently at onetime consisted of low rounded hillocks; it is now much broken, and chokedup with the earth and stones that have been thrown up by excavating. Thestone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders imbedded withothers, such as quartz, etc. In brickish-yellow or nearly orange clay. The boulders vary much in size. There is no regularity in the pits, which are dug indiscriminately; some have the form of ditches, noneexceed 20 feet in depth. They are dug all over the valley, as well as onthe base of the hill bounding it to the W. And N. W. We could not obtainany good specimens, nor is there any thing in the spot that repays thevisit. No machinery is used, the larger blocks are broken by fire. Butthat they are of importance in the light of increasing the revenue, isevident, from the fact that B. Counted, since we left Camein, 1, 100people on their return, of whom about 700 were Shan Chinese. The loadscarried away are in some cases very heavy; the larger pieces are carriedon bamboo frames by from two to five men, the lesser on a stout piece ofbamboo lashed to and supported on two cross or forked bamboos, thestouter joint resting on the bearer's neck, the handles of the forksbeing carried in his hands. The most obvious advantage of this is theease with which the load may be taken off, when the bearer is fatigued. The revenue yielded last year, B. Tells me, was 320 viss of silver, orabout 40, 000 rupees. The length of the valley from E. To W. Is aboutthree quarters of a mile; its breadth varies from 460 to 800 yards. 

On our return we boiled water at the Soap spring, which is about 50 feetabove the mines, Temp. Of the air 80. 5. 2. 5 P. M. Of boiling water 209. Elevation 1600 feet. And on the top of Kuwa Boom, which is crossed at acomparatively low place, at 4. 5 P. M. Temp. Of the air 76, of boilingwater 207. Elevation 2678 feet. 

I can say nothing as to the peculiar features of the vegetation, in thewoods towards Kuwa Boom. I gathered three Aurantiaceae; the Olacinea ofyesterday is common, a large arborescent Artocarpus fructibus oblongissub-informibus, sub-acidulis, . 75 uncialibus; Teak rarely; Tonabea, noblespecimens occur; on the Kuwa Boom, a large Gordonia arborea, twoarborescent Myrtacea, large Mangoes, Bamboo, a Morinda; Magnoliaeceaoccurs on its western face, as well as the Conifera toxoidea beforegathered. Dicksonia and Pladera justicioidea both occur. Dianellanemorosa, etc. The Serpentine is carried from Keoukseik in boats downthe Endaw Kioung, thence to Camein, and from whence it goes to Mogam, which is probably the principal mart. Calamus spioris petiolorumuncialibus verticillatis occurs in abundance in all the damp jungle. 

We returned in the afternoon to our halting place of yesterday, fromwhich the mines are distant ten miles, four of which occur from the sideof Kuwa Boom to the West. The Endaw Gyee is situated on a plain, but itis enclosed by hills on every side except the S. E. Those to the southare very high. 

_April 6th_. --Returned, diverging from the path to the villageKeoukseik. Noticed Liriodendron, AEsculus, Achyranthis aspera, Vallarissolanacea, etc. 

The village is situated to the S. Of the road to the mines; it is closeto the Nam Teen, and on a small elevation; it is stockaded. The numberof houses is about sixteen; of inhabitants, including children, 120: allthe houses, except two, being small. The merchants, etc. Employed aboutthe mines, halt on the Nam Theen, which is up to this point navigable forsmall boats. 

Thermometer 66. 6. 5 A. M. Temp. Of boiling water 210. 

_April 8th_. --Reached Camein at noon: halted on the 7th at our formerhut on the Endaw Kioung. The additional plants noticed are Duchesniaindica, common in wet places; a Bamboo, paniculis (culmis) nutantibusaphyllis, amplus. Pandanus; Curculigo pumila, floribus sub-solitariusante folia, 6 vel. 4 partitis; a Careya, Dillenia, arborea floribusnumerosis parvis luteis. 

AEschynomena, Anthistiria arundinacea, Composita arborea, 40-50 pedalis. Another species of Anthistiria, common on the margins of hills during themarch. Fir trees are reported to exist on _Lioe Peik_, which bearsSouth from Kioukseik. Volcanic hills reported to exist near the EndawGyee, but no salt rock occurs. This mineral is said to be found threedays' march from Kioukseik on the Nam Theen. The revenue said to accruefrom the Serpentine mines, is probably highly exaggerated; and the supplyof the stone is said to be diminishing yearly. Casually found on the NamToroon, a Sterculia arborea, florib-masculis clavato, infundibul. Coccineis, pubescentibus: a Sophora, floribus albidis pallidissimaceruleo tinctis, of which the flowers alone were seen; Prenanthisflosentis citrinis, a Polygala and Hypericum were likewise found. 

_April 9th_. --Left Camein at 6, and reached Mogoung at 6 P. M. After amarch of at least twenty-five miles. The course at first was nearly dueeast, until we reached the Nam Pong, but subsequently it became moresoutherly. Camein bears from this about S. S. E. The country traversedwas the same, generally comparatively open, that is to say, grassy plainswith Rhamnea, Nauclea, Bombax, etc. For some distance the path extendedthrough shady woods. No villages, nor any signs of such were observed_en route_. We passed many streamlets particularly during the latterhalf of the march. Our original intention was to have come to Mogoung bywater, and with this view Bayfield told the man sent by the Myoowook toprocure two or three canoes. At 6 A. M. The Havildar came up to our hut, and said that the headman of the village was disputing violently aboutour taking the boats. Bayfield proceeded down to the river side, wherethe Yua Thugee was very insolent, and he and his followers drew their_dhaos_ (swords) on Bayfield, who slightly pushed the Thugee. It endedin our going by land. We had previously heard of the rebellion at Ava:the Thugee's behaviour evidently arose partly from this. I did notobserve the dispute, as I remained near the stockade. 

Noticed a Lonicera in low places, and the Viola of Suddiya on the plains, a Cardiopteris, Kempferia, Curcuma, a Bambusa vaginis collo barbatis, ascandent Strychnos, an Aerides, Ardisiae 2, some Acanthaceae, Loxotismajor, Urticeae 2 or 3, Santalacea as before, Tetrantherae, Davalliaatrata, Asplenium fronde simplici, etc. Etc. 

_April 10th_. --We halt, and hear a report of the death of Mr. Kincaid, and that a Burmese army is _en route_ here. The whole country is mostunsettled, all the Singphos and Khukeens being in open rebellion. Itappears that Thurrawaddi is meeting with success in his summons for men. No resistance shewn to his authority hitherto except by one Myoowoon. OurMyoowoon has absented himself, and the Myoowook determined on surrender. Bayfield under all circumstances, and failing authentic intelligence ofMr. Kincaid, resolves on remaining here. 

Mogam is a rather pretty town, situated on the right bank of the Mogoungriver, at the confluence of a river 100 yards broad, the water of whichspreads out, in some places, to a considerable breadth and depth. Thecountry is however low, flooded in the rains, and surrounded by hills, except in the direction of Shewe Down Gyee. In many places it is onlycovered with grass. The town is large, and was formerly stockaded, theremains of the timber stockade being still visible. It contains about300 houses, about 2, 500 inhabitants, mostly Shans. The houses aregenerally raised, in many cases like those of the Kampties, the choppercoming low down, shaped like a turtle's back. There is a very distinctopening or chasm in the hills between S. D. Gyee and a low range to theNorth, but no river makes its exit there. Sunday, 16th. 

_April 18th_. --Halted up to this date, waiting for informationespecially regarding the army at Tsenbo. 

In this place two fragrant Dipterocarpeae are found; as also Bixa, Tamarindus, and Carthamus, which last is cultivated and used both forfood and dyeing. About the Poongie houses some remarkable Fici occur, the trunk being divided so low down as to give the idea of a group ofseveral trees. The roots in addition are made to spread over the conicalmounds, thrown up at their bases. 

A race of wild-looking short men, called Lupai Khakoos, inhabit thisvicinity, wearing a jacket, and dark-blue cloth with an ornamentedborder, worn with the ends overlapping in front. They wear garters ofthe Suwa. Their hair is worn either long or cropped, and a beard is alsooccasionally worn by the elders. 

In this place very few regular Chinese are to be found, and the few thatare here seen, are ultra-provincials; none are acquainted with themanufacture of tea. This article is procurable here, but at a high rate;it is sold in flat cakes of some diameter; it is black, coarse, withscarcely any smell, and in taste not much superior to the Assamesearticle; 20 tickals weight sells for 1. 25. All the blue cloths of theShans are dyed, Bayfield informs me, with Ruellia, or jungle indigo. 

It is with these people that the only trade seems to be carried on, andthis is limited to amber and serpentine. They are very dirty, andexcessively penurious, but industrious. Owing to their habits andextreme penury, there is no outlet for our manufactures in thisdirection; so that I fully agree with Hannay's statement, that 500 rupeesworth of British goods would be unabsorbed for some years. Rosa iscommon, also a Rumex; a Sisymbroid plant also occurs. Among the trees, all which are stunted, Gmelina arborea occurs. There are some Assameseslaves here among the people, one of them is said to be a relation ofChundra Kant, the Suddiya chief: slaves are held in very small estimationwith the Burmese. Thus Bayfield asked his writer, who such a onestanding near him was, whether a Shan or Singpho? The man answered, "Mylord, it is not a man; it is a Waidalee. "

Altogether, Mogoung is an uninteresting place; the surrounding plains arebarren-looking, and inhospitable, and clothed with grass. Here and therea ragged Nauclea, Careya, etc. Is visible with Gmelina arborea. Theundershrubs are chiefly a Rhamnoidea, and a Phyllanthus. Rosa is common;Rumex and Nasturtium are both met with. 

News arrived yesterday evening to the effect, that the King is drowned, the heir-apparent in the palace: and that Colonel Burney is withThurrawadi!!!

My collections up to this place amount to 900 species. 

_April 19th_. --Left at 12, and halted after having gone about fourmiles. The river continues the same as above; it is a good deal impededby trees, and much more so by sandbanks. 

_April 20th_. --Reached Tapaw in the afternoon; our progress is, however, very slow the stream being slight, but the river is muchimproved; being less spread out, owing to its greater proximity to thelow hills: often very deep, generally clothed with jungle to the water'sedge. On the hills near Tapaw are some Khukeens of the Thampraw tribe, and on these hills bitter tea is reported to be found. This the Khukeensbring down for sale. 

_April 21st_. --Continued our course, performing about twelve milesbetween 7 and 5, inclusive of one hour's halt. At some distance fromTapaw and thence throughout the day, here and there occur rapids, whichare much worse, from the stream being impeded by large rocks. In someplaces it is divided, in others, compressed between hills, and here it isvery deep. 

_April 23rd_. --Arrived at the Irrawaddi. The Mogoung river is veryuninteresting; the stream being generally slow, sandbanks very abundant, as well as stumps of sunken trees. At its mouth it is deep, and aboutseventy yards across. The banks are either overgrown with trees or elsegrassy; the grasses being Arundo and Saccharum. On the steep banks ofthe hills where these descend into the river, ferns are common togetherwith an Amaryllidea out of flower. Cadaba is common, as well as a largeMimosea. Rosa continues; as also AEsculus. On the road by which theChinese branch off from Tapaw to the Irrawaddi, I gathered an arborescentApocynea foliis suboppositis, and a Homalineous tree, floribustetrameris; Salix is common all down the river. Teak only occursoccasionally. In one place I gathered Lonicera heterophylla, a fragrantValeriana? and Jonesia in abundance; this last being here apparentlyquite wild. Adelia nereifolia, a Ficus, Ehretia arenarum, and the usualsandy plants occur on the banks. Pistia, Salvinia and Azolla are common. 

The Irrawaddi opposite the entrance of the Mogoung river, is 600 yardsacross. It is a noble stream; has risen a good deal, and presents oneunbroken sheet of water. The banks are by no means high, and are grassedto the brink. The water is cold and clouded; its temperature is 66. 5degrees, that of air in a boat 88. 5. We reached Tsenbo about 1 o'clock, having passed five or six villages, mostly small, and inhabited by Shans. Tsenbo numbers about 30 houses, but these as throughout Burma, as far aswe have seen, are small; it is situated on a low hill on the left bank. Both banks are hilly, especially the right. The river has risenenormously during a halt here--many feet. In one hour we found it torise about 16 inches. At this place I gathered a fine blue Vanda, and acurious tree habitu Thespiae: stigmatibus 4. Between this and theentrance to the narrow defile Kioukdweng, which is about 1. 5 milesdistant, three villages occur. This entrance is well marked, the riverbecoming suddenly contracted from 300 to less than 100 yards. We haltedabout 6. 5 P. M. At Lemar. Noticed four or five villages between Lemar andthe village at the entrance of the defile. All these villages areinhabited by Poans, a distinct hill tribe. Passed through two fearfulplaces, one in particular where the whole body of water rushes through a_gate_, formed by huge rocks not 50 yards wide. 

_April 24th_. --Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5. 5P. M. ; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, ordefile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known bytwo rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Passed several smallvillages before we made our exit from the K. Dweng: all inhabited byPoans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is trulymagnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted. 

The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadthof the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards, and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night aloneamounted to an increase of ten feet, the passage is one continued sceneof anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by withgreat velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by thesurrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as torender the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could notlive in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone, presenting angular masses which project into the stream; the former inall places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceousslate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of courseenormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield passed up, in manyplaces no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this seasonthe water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise thathas taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, whenBayfield passed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it wasnow 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, woulddetermine one of at least 40 within the K. Dweng. After passing theElephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by theirfanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of thisKioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque. 

The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills aboutMogoung; but so dangerous was the passage, that I had but fewopportunities of going ashore. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bearmany impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivationare certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spotscultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India aredeserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population mayclear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider hisauthority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited tothe villages seen during the passage. These do not exceed twelve, andthey are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height(apparently, ) they do not present any very peculiar features. 

Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at leastthat of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelianereifolia (Roxb. ), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also havefrom Moulmain, two Myrtaceae, a Rungia, are the most common. I did notobserve Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usualCompositae, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex arecommon, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematiscarpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear tooccur. One remarkable tree, _Belhoe_ of Assam, 70 feet high, corticealbido, foliis orbato, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has theappearance of an Amentaceous tree. 

_April 27th_. --We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have beensettled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen atleast three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channelyesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide. 

Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its principal streetruns. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses, and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, _i. E_. Asto length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that thepopulation cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only tothose within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two orthree small villages. The stockade is of timber, _pangaed_, or fencedoutside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as anattack is expected from the Khukeens. 

The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built ofunbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. Thereis but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, lowswampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness ofthe town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in pagodas, none of whichare worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care ofthemselves. 

The _inferior caked tea_, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, andcaps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and thebazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place thanMogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with theChinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of theMogoung district. 

The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there isan extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry, and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; atpresent the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed nopeculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanthae 2, Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma. When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. Theonly new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis, odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old Pagodas, Pladeraof Moulmain, a Labiata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur. 

The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, BixaOrellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus, Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coarseCustard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati. 

The climate is dry and sultry, the diurnal range of the Thermometer beingfrom 28 to 32 degrees. At this season, viz. At 6. 5 A. M. From 66 to 68; 4P. M. From 94 to 96. North winds are common, daily commencing from thatquarter, or terminating there. They are not accompanied by much rain, although the weather is unsettled. 

_May 2nd_. --A Khukeen whom Bayfield sent for tea returned, bringingwith him many specimens out of flower. The striking difference betweenthis and the tea I have hitherto seen, consists in the smallness andfiner texture of the leaves. For although a few of the specimens hadleaves measuring six by three inches, yet the generality, and these weremature, measured from four to three, by two to three. As both entire andserrated leaves occur, the finer texture was more remarkable. Thebitterness, as well as the peculiar flavour were most evident. Youngleaves were abundant. 

The Khukeens make no use of the tea. The Chinese here talk of this asthe jungle tea, and affirm that it cannot be manufactured into a goodarticle. They talk of the valuable sorts as being very numerous, and allas having small leaves. Neither here nor at Mogoung are there any realChinamen, nor is there any body who understands the process ofmanufacturing tea. The caked tea is not made to adhere by the serum ofsheep's blood, it adheres owing to being thus packed before it is dry. The plain around Bamoo is intersected by ravines, which afford good paddycultivation; no large trees occur within 1. 5 miles of the town. At thisdistance a large Dipterocarpea is common. In the underwood around thetown, a Dipterocarpus, arbuscula, foliis maximis, oblongo-cordatis, Gordonia, Lagerstraemia parviflora, Elodea, Nauclea; Leguminosae 3, Gelonia, Combretum, Jasminum occur. In the marshes Ammanniarotundifolia, Cyrilla, Azolla, Marsilea, and Salvinia, Serpicula, Ceratophyllum; a Campanula _arenosa_ reaches thus far. 

Every day indecent sights occur in the river, owing to the women bathingwithout clothes, and either with or near the men. They appear to beindifferent to the concealment of their person, breasts, and hoc genusomne, being freely exposed. They swim very well, and in a curious way. They make their escape by squatting down in the water, unfolding theircloth, and springing up behind it. As for the men, they appear to take apride in exposing every part of their bodies. No gazers-on occur amongthese people, such not being the fashion. 

The Shan Tarooks who trade with this place use oxen in addition to otherbeasts of burden; the breed appears good, resembling the smaller kind ofIndia. 

The Irrawaddi here is between the extreme banks a little less than 1. 5miles broad; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the largest, and is800 yards across. Two other channels exist, of which the west is thesmallest, and carries off least water. The river is a good dealsub-divided by sandbanks, but is, compared with the Burrumpooter aconfined river. Since our arrival here it has sunk several (say five orsix) feet, and no longer looks the noble river it did on our arrival. 

The sandbanks when they do exist are either naked, or clothed withpartial and not gigantic grassy vegetation. I have not seen any thingcomparable to the churs of the B. Pooter in this respect. Thetemperature of the river is not particularly low, and is much higher nowthan during the rise. From Bamoo the opening of the Kioukdweng is notconspicuous, nobody unacquainted with the course of the river wouldimagine that it passes through the range of hills to the N. And NNE. Thehighest hills visible are to the east. They are within a day's journey, and are clothed to their summits. Some appear 3000 feet high. 

Low hills inhabited by wild Khukeens, are visible nearly all around, except perhaps due west. The wild fierce nature of these people isattended with a great extent of mischief, quite unchecked, withouteliciting even precautionary measures on the part of the BurmeseGovernment. 

There are a few angles in the Bamoo stockade, and these exist because astraight line cannot be preserved; and large torches are placed out onlevers for illuminating the enemy, and loop-holes are cut through thetimbers; watch-houses are likewise placed at certain points. There aretwo rows of _pangahs_ or fences outside, but not the Singpho pangahs. Notwithstanding all this the river face is quite defenceless. 

The soil is dry and sandy, and cultivation is carried on principally onthe churs. Pumpkins and Gourds are abundant; Yams, (Dioscorea, ) not verygood. Rice is sold at the usual price, a basket full for a rupee. Thetown is dirty, and not kept in any order. 

_May 6th_. --We left Bamoo, and in three hours reached Kounglaun, arather large village on the left bank, containing 100 houses, many ofwhich are respectable, better indeed than any in Bamoo. It contains manysmall ruined pagodas. A gigantic tree grows within the stockade, whichis a very poor one. Punica Granatum, and Beloe, were the only plants ofinterest observed in the neighbourhood. 

We passed several (six or seven) villages, none except one with more thanthirty houses; the one alluded to had sixty. All the houses continuesmall. The river is here much subdivided, and in many places shallow;sandbanks are common. Vegetation of banks is almost entirely Gramineae, and coarse strong-smelling Compositae. The grasses are different fromthose previously met with, except the Arundo. Rosa continues; Salix iscommon. Between Koungloung and Tsenkan, which is on the same bank, andclose to the entrance to the Kioukdweng, three villages are met with; butnone of any size. Tsenkan is prettily situated on a high bank, or ratherlow hill. The houses are about 100 in number, all poor and small. Thestockade is a miserable affair. There are some good Poonghie houses, anda very pretty group of pagodas on a small rock. The country is jungly;just above the town a nullah enters the Irrawaddi: it is down this thatlarge quantities of teak is brought, from hills two days' journey to theeastward; some large rafts were seen, but although some of the timberswere stout, none were of any great size. I gathered a prettyHippocrateaceous plant in the jungles, as well as a Combretum; a Vitex, an Amyridea, etc. Phrynium dichotomum occurs here; Rosa continues;Jatropha is cultivated. 

_May 7th_. --Started at 5 A. M. , and entered the Kioukdweng almostimmediately. We halted about 7, at Tsenbo. Noticed AEsculus, Sisymbrium, Campanula, Adelia nereifolia, Dillania speciosa, the usualCompositae, and largish Dipterocarpeae. The river is a good dealnarrowed, but never less than 130 yards across, and as there are no rocksin any direction to impede the stream, the water flows but slowly andvery placidly. Almost all the rocks forming the hills are grey carbonateof lime. These hills are covered to high-water mark, with scantysomewhat stunted trees, the most of which have no foliage. The sceneryis by no means so bold as in the upper K. Dweng, although just aboveTsenbo, there is a noble cliff, 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular;under its ledges we observed great numbers of bees' nests. The rock whenexposed is rather greyish black, and in many places reddish. Serpentineoccurs, but is not common. A good deal of lime is prepared in thisKioukdweng, and some portions of it in the rugged serrated appearance, remind one of the limestone cliffs on the coast. Above Tsenbo and nearlyopposite the cliff, is a small village of eight houses. Tsenbo numbersfifteen; it is on the left bank, and is a miserable place. Here we wereleft by our escort which accompanied us from Tsenkan, and the Thogeerefused positively to give us two or three men to row. Although masterof a miserable hole, he had made preparations for defence, and had set onfoot a custom house. We saw a good many boats passing up, all evidentlycontaining families moving away from their villages. 

In this Kioukdweng a fine Palm exists, which I have never seen before. Caudex 10-15 pedalis, crassa, petiolorum basibus processibus vestitis, frondibus pinnatis, 10 pedalibus, pinnis ensifornibus 2 to 2. 5 pedalibus, subtus glaucis, diametro 1. 5 uncialibus, basi valde obliquis, bilobis!lobo inferiore maximo, decurrenti, uninervi: floribus in spadicibusnutanti-curvatis, amplis, basi spathaceis spicato-paniculatis. Florib. Masculis polyandris. 

Petiol. Bases cretosae, intus processubus atris, subulatis, longissimisrobustis quasi panicillatis. 

Habitus quodammodo Wallichiae. Hab. In Umbrosissimis. 

An arbuscula Anonacea, floribus dioicis, Mas. Corollae petalis apicevalvatim cohaerentibus, basi apertis, potius distantibus, Ovariis (faem)pedicellatis, also occurred. 

Fructus elliptico-oblongus, subuncialis, hinc a basi ad styli punctumlinea tenui exsculptus, unilocularis, unisporus. Endocarp, ac testaviscoso-gelatinosa. Testa ac tegumen intera membr. Chartacea. Albumencopiosum hinc et suturae fructus oppositae, profundius exarat. Sectionetransversa-reniformi. Carnoso albumeni germen secus sulcum affixium. Embryo in axi albuminis, radicul super. Cotyledones foliaceae, albae, amplae, curvat seminis sequentes: suturae placental, oppositae. Ejusdemgeneris cum Menispermea: in sylvis Singfoensibus cum Wallichia: videIcones. 

Arrived at Kioukgyee at 5 P. M. Waited on and dined with the Meewoon, whois a gentlemanly, spare, lively man with grey hair. Dinner was good, andclean. Preserved dried jujubes from China, as well as some preserved byhimself were very good. Kioukgyee is on the right bank of the river, which is here undivided by islands, and about 1200 yards broad. Justabove the town there are some rocks. The number of houses is abouteighty-five, most of them arranged in a broad street running along theriver, and the best that I have seen for some time. 

The village is surrounded by a new and wretched stockade, the outskirtsbeing fenced or _pangaed_; the people are on the qui vive, and the wholevillage seems to be in a constant state of alarm. All the jungleimmediately adjoining the town is cut down; many of the houses areunroofed, and all the gates are guarded. Visited this morning the linesoccupied by the attacking force; these were not 300 yards from thevillage, and occupied the skirts of the jungle: trees had been felled andearth thrown up, but not in such a manner as to obstruct in any waytolerably brave men. We saw none of the slain, we may therefore doubt ifthere were any, but it was evident from platters, etc. Strewed about, that the flight of the robbers had been very precipitate. We passed somelittle distance above this, a holy island, the numberless small pagodason which, had a very pretty effect. Close to these there was a smallvillage, Sheweygyoo, which had been just burnt down by the Kioukgyeepeople, for giving assistance to the robbers; this as well as two othercontiguous villages before occupied a good extent of the left bank, andnumbered probably 150 houses. Most of the inhabitants have retreated upthe river. 

_May 8th_. --Reached Katha at 6 P. M. Throughout the day saw little ofinterest. What we did see, gave evident tokens of disturbances, :villages deserted; dogs starved, howling piteously; canoes withoutowners. At one village a few miles below Kioukgit, our arrival causedmuch excitement, and a gun was fired off as a signal of alarm on ourapproach. 

_May 9th_. --Katha is on the right bank of the Irrawaddi; it is situatedon an eminence, and commands a fine view of a fine reach of the river;the situation indeed is excellent. It contains nearly 200 houses, butthese are not of the better description. To the west is a fine chain ofhills, the lowest ranges of which are distant about one mile and a half;the highest peaks are perhaps 1500 feet. No signs of alarm ordisturbances are here visible, although part of the force that investedKioukgit came from this village. We here learn the agreeable news thatthe country below is quiet, and that no robbers now infested the road. The Thogee is a fine looking young man; very polite. This village boastsof some pretty pagodas, well grouped, and a very fine _Kiown_, theworkmanship of which astonished me, particularly the carving; it is builtof teak, the posts being very stout, and very numerous. Several merchantboats left before us, apparently anxious for our escort. 

Behind the town is a large plain used for the cultivation of paddy. Otherwise the jungle comes close to the houses, although the larger treeshave been felled for firewood, etc. : the woods are dry, and tolerablyopen. In the morning I went out towards the hills; the chief timbertrees are a fine Dipterocarpus, and a Hopea; Pentapetes likewise occurs;Terminalia Chebula. Gathered a fine Arum, somewhat like A. Campanulatum. An arboreous Gardenia, as at Mergui; Myrtacea, Vitex, Bauhinia ofyesterday; Randia, Andropogon aciculare; some stunted bamboos werelikewise observed. Altogether Katha is the prettiest place I have yetseen. The river opposite it is confined to one bed, about 500 yardsbroad. 

_May 9th_. --Left at 7 A. M. , and reached the mouth of the Shwe Lee at 1P. M. ; the distance according to B. Being sixteen miles. Passed a fewvillages, but none of any size; the houses of all continue of the samedescription. The river presents the same features. Salix continues. Sandbanks occupied by annual Compositae occur, two Polygona, Campanula, aRanunculus, much like that of Suddiya, a Labiata, Paronychia, twoSpermacoces; Bombax occurs just below Katha; Salix and Rosa continue. Shwe Lee is a considerable river, at the mouth between 4 and 500 yardsbroad; but one-third of this is unoccupied by water, and the stream isnot deep, although of the ordinary strength. Above, it narrowsconsiderably. 

7. 5 P. M. Temperature of the air 76 degrees. Of Irrawaddi 74 degrees. 

_May 9th_. --Tsa-gaiya. This is a mean village on the left bank, abouteighteen miles from Katha; it is close to a low range of hills, andoccupies part of a plain, which is adapted for paddy cultivation. Nearthe village to the North, is a small _jeel_, covered to a great extentwith a large Scirpus, Jussiaea, Azolla, Salvinia, etc. Water-fruits areabundant; round this paddy is cultivated, and they appear to cut it atthis time. Low ground near the jeel is covered with a low, handsomeStravadium or Barringtonia, as well as a Xanthophyllum, resemblingexceedingly in appearance a Leguminosa: the wood is hard. Calamus isalso common. A handsome Nauclea occurs, and on the grassy margins of theplain a small Euphrasia is common. 

During our stage I observed large quantities of Bombax, and a treeapparently the Beloe of Assam; the banks were either grassy or wooded, especially on the right bank, which is skirted entirely by hills of thesame barren looking description. The grasses are all small compared withthose of Assam. 

_May 10th_. --Reached Tagoung late in the evening at 7. 5: distancethirty-two miles. The river continues the same; the hills on the leftbank are much broken into ravines: all continue clothed with the samestunted vegetation. 

_May 11th_. --Tagoung is a miserable village on the left bank; itoccupies a rocky eminence, and contains less than 100 houses. It is themost inferior village I have yet seen, the streets being dreadfully dirtyand the houses very mean. We visited an old pagoda, about a mile fromthe town, which is surrounded by an antique wall, much obscured byjungle, and more resembling a bund. On our route hither we landed atThigan, a village containing about forty houses, and prettily situated atthe foot of a hill of micaceous sandstone, on the right bank. At thisplace are the remains of a fort built by the Chinese, of slabs of therock forming the hill. Similar remains exist at Myadoung, on theopposite bank, as I learn from Mr. Bayfield. I gathered a Sida, Capparis, Prionitis, Gnaphalium, and a Xanthoxylia petiolis alatisarmata; an Adiantum grows between the slabs composing the wall. AtTsenkan I observed an Agave, a different Cactus, a fleshy Euphorbia; andan Ananassa is common all about. 

About Tagoung the botany is varied, and interesting. I gathered aboutfifteen plants that had not occurred before, two Poae, two Andropogons, aZanthoxylum, and an Olax. The most interesting is an Apocynea, floribusinfundibulifor. Lamina reflexa, fauce squamis dentatis 10, serie duplicidispositis, interioribus petalis oppositis et majoribus, antheris, inconum stigma omnino coadunatis. Cotton cultivated here; plants tallerthan usual. The villages around are all forsaken owing to one of themhaving been attacked by Khukeens, and two men carried off. Hence thepopulation at Tagoung, although usually scanty, is now much increasedfrom adjoining places. A small river falls into the Irrawaddiimmediately above Tagoung. 

_May 12th_. --Reached Male about 6 P. M. Passed _en route_ a fewvillages, none of any size or importance. The river varies in width, _i. E_. The channel, from 400 to 600 yards. The banks are eitheralluvial or rocky; and there are hills on the right bank skirting theriver; those on the left, are more distant and higher. Borassuscommences to be common; it is a taller, and more slender tree than thatof Coromandel, and the trunk is not covered with the persistent bases ofthe petioles. 

The village of Tsebainago is opposite to Male, and appears nearly of thesame size. Both are situated close to the mouth of the third Kioukdweng. Male contains 150 houses, all small; it is a place of no trade. To thenorth is a hill forming the river bank, and covered with pagodas; it isthe prettiest place we observed after Katha. The soil has now put on thedry sterile appearance of the Coromandel coast, all the trees of which, except the figs, are common; and often render the banks very pretty. Tectona of Hamilton is very common; it is a tree not exceeding in height40 feet, much resembling in habit the more valuable species; the flowersare blueish, particularly the villi; the leaves have the same excessiverough feel. Two other Verbenaceae, a curious Capparidea, caule laxo, foliis lineari-oblongis, basi hastato-cordatis, and a Ximenia are common. On the banks Stravadium, and an arboreous Butea, a Combretum, are common. Low stunted bamboos likewise prevail; and all the bushes are prickly. Nyctanthes is cultivated. The rocks as well as those forming theKioukdweng, are of coarse sandstone, here and there affording nourishmentto abortive Compositae, stunted grasses, Mollugo, etc. 

Left Male, and entered immediately the last Kioukdweng on descending, orthe first defile on ascending against the stream. This is a prettypassage, and moreover has no dangerous places; the hills are low, lowerthan those of the two former passes, consisting of sandstone partiallyclothed with the same scanty vegetation, presenting the same barrenappearance. Olax, Fici, Leguminosa, stunted bamboos, Hippocrateacea, Mimosa, and Stravadium, occur. Celsia on sandy spots, together withCampanula, but this last is becoming rare. Adelia nereifolia continues. An arundo occurs on the naked rocks; Cassia fistula, Tectona Hamiltonianaare also present. 

We are much impeded by south-west winds; and owing to this and theslowness of the stream, we were compelled to remain some time at Thee-ha-dau. We there had excellent opportunities of seeing the fish, which areso very tame as to come up to the sides of the boat, and even to allowthemselves to be handled. The faqueers of the place call them together;but I think they are not much disposed to come from mere calling, forthey seem to require more substantial proofs of being wanted, in theshape of food: they are found in still water in a small bay, which isclosed up still more from the influence of the stream by a round island, constructed superficially on a rocky base, and on which pagodas arebuilt. They resemble a good deal the Gooroa Mas of Assam, but have nolarge teeth as this has. They are very greedy, of a blueish grey colour, occasionally inclining to red; the feelers are in some forked: they haveno scales. 

We continued our course when the wind lulled; halted to dine on asandbank, and proceeded on afterwards, until we reached Kabuct about 8. 5P. M. On the sandbank where we dined I gathered a Crotalaria, Campanula, Cleome, a Graminea, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, and a Dentelloidea. Thevillages seen were all small. 

_May 13th_. --Left Kabuct before 6. Halted to breakfast on a steepbank, finding it impossible to proceed against the south-west winds, which have now become prevalent. 

At this place, which is hilly, I gathered Gmelina villosa, an Anonacea, calyce 6 sepalis, cor. Tripetala, pet. Patentissimis, margine revolutis, luteis. A Carissa, Grewia, Malpighiacea samaris, 3-alatis, alisdorsalibus abbreviatis, a curious Graminea, a green Orchidea, terrestris, bulbosa, flore ante folia evoluta, a Diospyros, Polygala, Plectranthus, Rungia, Pladera, etc. 

Halted at Movo, owing to the wind. This is a very pretty village; of nogreat size, and of no importance. A delightful tope formed by Mango, Fig, and Garcinia, or Xanthochymus, the dense shade of which is mostagreeable; Averrhoa, AEgle Marmelos is cultivated here; Borassus iscommon, trunks of which are often of very irregular diameter. Low grassyplaces occur running along the back of the village, with abundance of aCombretum fruticosum; and a nullah at either end of the village presentsmany trees on its banks, particularly a very large and handsome Myrtacea, Hemarthria compressa. Stravadium racemis longe pendulis. 

We were compelled to put into Mala on the right bank, about a mile aboveTsengoo, by a severe storm from the north-west. This village consists ofabout forty houses, many pagodas, and has a good many potteries, and somefine trees. It is at the entrance of the Kioukdweng. Observed JatrophaCurcas, and Vitex negrendo. In the evening we proceeded to Tsenbou. 

_May 14th_. --Left Tsenbou, and breakfasted at Nbat Kiown-wa. Justabove this are several villages, two of which number nearly seventyhouses each. This is the most populous part I have seen. To the east ofthis are the Ruby mines in the Shan hills; and to the south-east lowhills from which the marble is procured, from which they make the idols. The river features continue the same; namely, low hills close to theright bank, and more distant as well as higher ones on the left. On theShan hills to the east, teak forests occur; on those to the west, teaalso grows. In Polong tea districts also occur; but the tea is verycoarse, and said not to be drinkable. Hemarthria, and Hoya viridiflorawere found. 

Here I found Solanum, Tribulus, a Mimosa, lime trees, Carissa, Mimusops, Stemodia ruderalis now appear. The most interesting is a small diffuseCaryoplylleous-looking plant, with white Campanulate flowers; it isprobably a Frankeniacea. On the pagodas an Aristella grows. Certainfeatures prevail in the vegetation similar to those of the Coromandelcoast. Fig trees often surrounded at base with brick-work; this neverlasts long, the roots tearing up the masonry in every direction. 

The exit from this 3rd Kioukdweng is very pretty. Tsengru with itsnumerous white pagodas; the noble river expanded into a broad bay; theEastern hills are very beautiful, and the Marble hills which form abackground to Tsenbou are no less so. The banks towards the exit fromthe defile are sloping, often covered with grass. The Palmyra trees andFig trees have a very pleasing effect. At Kiougyoung there is a largebrick fort, built by Alompras. The village contains about 150 houses: nolarge village is passed between this and Kubuct. 

Halted above Sheemnaga to look at Gaudama's foot, a piece of workmanshipcontained in a pagoda; it is a very large foot, with a central circularimpression. This is about a mile below Endawka. Sheemnaga nevercontained more than 400 houses, I counted upwards of 180, and althoughextensive traces of fire, and of new houses existed, I should reckon itto have contained only about 300. At the Pagoda I gathered a curiousRutaceous-looking decandrous thorny tree, with foliis bijugis. 

Reached Mengoon about 7 P. M. Landed at the commencement of the sandstonehills, which in some places assume the form of cliffs: texture veryloose. They are full of holes, and abound with blue rock Pigeons. Gathered a Murraya. Trichodesma indicus and Compositae, Asclepiadea, Calotropis gigantea, and a curious Arenariod-looking plant. 

_May 15th_. --Mengoon boasts of a huge unfinished Pagoda, consisting asit now stands of an immense square brick mass, surrounded by four finebroad raised terraces; it would have been, had it been finished, upwardsof 700 feet high. The dome was to have been with angular sides. Height170 feet; the basement, as may be supposed, is immense. The plan ormodel of it was first built in a small adjoining grove to the south, bythe grandfather of the present king. The whole kingdom must have beenoccupied in its erection. The entrance to it is guarded by two hugeGriffins. Several large bells lie close to it. The country around ishilly; the hills low, raviny, and clothed with stunted vegetation. Beautiful topes exist along the river bank, between this and the cliffsbefore alluded to; consisting chiefly of fine mango trees, noble Ficilikewise occur. About Mengoon, Jatropha Curcas is common. Gymnemea, Calatropis gigantea, and Argemone abound. We found a Pergularia, Lippia, Zyzyphus, and one or two small Euphorbiaceae. The soil is dry, sandy, and barren. 

We reached Ava about 1 o'clock. 

_May 21st_. --Went to Tsegai on an excursion: the hills in this vicinityare low, none exceeding 300 or 400 feet, dry and barren, chiefly composedof grey carbonate of lime, and in some places Kancha occurs. Pagodas arevery numerous, but none are very large, or bearing the stamp of greatage. A fine view of country is however afforded: large plains are seento the east of the city, and between the hills and the river two largejheels are visible from the hills. 

The vegetation almost entirely consists of low stunted, very ramousshrubs, and these are generally thorny. Not a tree visible except Bombaxand Tamarindus, but this last is planted. A large subarboreous Cactus, spinosus, ramis 4 angulis, is common. Noticed four species of Capparis, and the following plants, Barleria, Prionitis, Tamarindus, AEgle, Zizyphus, Cocos; Borassus, Bixa, Cordia, Punica, Ricinus, Melia Azederak;Citrus Cassia, near houses and on the hills; Euphorbia 2, Ximenia, Cleome, Boerhaavia, Adhatode, Cassia sennoidea, Sidae, Andropogon, a laxLinaria common on old pagodas; Calanchoe, Sedum, Pommereulla, Vincarosea, Tectona Hamiltoniana, but not of such size as at Male. Bambusastunted and rare, Blepharacanthus, Polygala, Labiatae 2, AEruae, sp. Ficione or two, an Alstonia, Celosia mollugo, Solani sp. Stemodia, Combretum, Heliotropium indicum, and the Euphorbiacea of Mengwong. It will at oncebe seen that the vegetation has some similarity with that of theCarnatic, for in addition I found Asplenium radiatum, and LimoneaMonophylla, a Carissa, Ximenia, Flacourtia, etc. Etc. 

Ava is a fine town, surrounded with an excellent brick wall: the streetsare wide, and kept clean; the houses are regular, and as trees areinterspersed, a pleasing effect is produced. The appearance is muchimproved by a lattice before each house. The houses also are of asuperior description, a few only are of brick. The fort is surrounded byan additional wall, and a broad but shallow ditch. The palace is ahandsome, irregular, gilt edifice; but its precincts are not kept soclean as they might be. The Shwottoo is a handsome hall. The townaltogether conveys an idea of importance. The river is about 800 yardsbroad opposite the Residency; but above, it is encroached on by asandbank. Boats are numerous, and opposite Tsegain there is a busyferry, especially now the king is at Tsegain. This is a much preferableplace, and rendered much more pleasing by its superb Tamarind trees, withtheir most elegant foliage and sculptured trunks. The plants cultivatedabout Ava are Palmyra, Cocoa (rare). Tamarinds abound; Carica Papaya, Punica Granatum; Mangoes, which are of good description; Cordia, Plantains, AEgle Marmelos. 

The country is flat, and destitute of trees to the south and southwest. The whole of this is cultivated during the rains, chiefly for Gram, Tobacco, Capsicum, and a Melilotus. At present the plains are barren, the low places being almost exclusively occupied by a Combretum; the restgive a new Polygonum, Lippia, 2 or 3 Compositae, and a curious dwarfgrass. On the walls Linaria is common. Noticed near one of the gates, Cryptostegia grandiflora; the waste places and banks are occupied byArgemone, Mollugineae three, Xanthium, Dentella, and low annualCompositae. 

_May 26th_. --Visited Tsegain in the evening, and returned to Ava on thefollowing morning. 

_May 27th_. --Noticed Phoenix sylvestris. The Euphorbia is common; itis not a Cactus, but a species of this genus, ramis complanatis, is foundthough not common; as well as an Agave or Aloe, but this is a doubtfulnative. Poinciana pulcherrima, both red and yellow, Rhus? sp. Arbuscula, Vallaris solanacea. A small Lycopodium, Gmelina asiatica? Theadditional Madras plants are, Cissus quadrangularis. There is likewiseanother fleshy species fol. 3 phyllis, Sarcostemma viminale, Indigofera, Kalanchoe laciniata is common; so is the white Cyperacea on barren spots!I met with Sarcostemma ciliatum; Wall. ? petalis extus viridescent, intusciliisque purpuro sanguinies, but it is rare. Cardiospermum pubescens iscertainly distinct, the flowers are twice as large as those of C. Halicacabum, fructibus inflatis vix alatis, ovalibus, dehiscentiasepticida, septis axi adnatis, persistentibus. Semin. Solitarii centroloculi affixis, pisiparvi magnitudine, atris. 

NOTE. --Where any discrepancy occurs with regard to the native names inthe preceding Journal, it is requested that such may be corrected fromthe Report to Govt. Chapter VII. P. 115. 

[The view from Beesa: p109. Jpg]

CHAPTER VI. 

_Botanical notes connected with the foregoing Journal_. 

(_February 19th_. --The finest view of the hills from Upper Assam isobtained on a reach or turn of the river just above Palankar, the riverbending to the NNE. Snow is plentifully seen on one back range from theSugar-loaf peak. Another reach shortly after presents a fine view of theBurrampooter chasm, terminated by the rugged peak so distinctly seen fromSuddiyah, due east. This view might be chosen, as a generalcharacteristic of the Scenery of Upper Assam. 

It embraces the Mishmee mountains to the left, the higher peaks of whichare covered with perpetual snow. These lie to the NNE. Of Beesa. To theeast, is the continuation of the Himalaya, to the South-east and South, the Patkaye, and Naga ranges; the whole forming a panorama, rarely if anywhere surpassed in beauty. Temperature. Of the river at 6 A. M. 67degrees

_Musa_. Many flowers from the axil of a bract; no bractiolesinterspersed, hence we may expect racemose or spicate partialinflorescences. The perianth is unilateral, 5 cleft, the two smallersegments, which are intermediate, being internal, or belonging to adifferent series. Within this petaloid perianth is a membranous one, together with a boat-shaped bracteolate body, entire. The stamens arefive, evidently opposite to the segments of the petaloid perianth, staminibus adnatis, the sixth is not developed, but is rudimentary, andexceedly minute, opposite to the bracteoid body. The carpella three, alternate as they ought to be with the last series of stamina, and hencethey are opposed to the larger and outer segments of the petaloidperianth, but this last point deserves further examination. 

The base of the bracteoid sepal is filled with a gelatinous, sweet, transparent, unicoloured . 5 fluid. 

I am unaware whether this explanation has occurred to any body else. 

It is curious as compared with Scitamineae, in which the posticous stamenis alone fully developed. Pl. 1. Fig. 3. _a_. Bracteoid body, _b_. Sterile stamen, c. C. C. Outer series, d. D. Inner ditto. 

The fact of the outer smaller laciniae belonging to a second series isnot very apparent, but is corroborated by the evidently internalsituation of the bracteoid scale, and by the evidently elevated linesvisible in the inner. 

(_April 3rd_, _1837_. --On march towards the Serpentine mines) the faceof the perianth, corresponds to these smaller laciniae. 

_April 7th_. --Thunbergia grandiflora has the pedicels of its flowerstwisted, or not twisted, according to the situation of the flowers. Thusif the flower be so situated that the raceme has the direction of theaxis, or in other words is erect, the pedicel is straight, but if theraceme, as generally happens, be pendulous, the twisting of the pedicelis resorted to, to secure the flower that situation which it would have, were the raceme erect. 

The above is obvious in flowers which from elongation of the axis ofinflorescence, have fasciculate or aggregate flowers. An obviousinference is, that the twisting of the pedicel is not of generic, nor ofspecific importance; and that it is capable of being producedartificially. 

This resupination is not uncommon in the order; it is most evident inThunbergia coccinea, in which the racemes are always pendulous. There isnothing, at least in this species, in the situation of the genitalia toaccount for the resupination. 

Pedicelli demum apicem infra articulati, the inflorescence of this orderis always centrifugal, the partial axis being invariably as well indeedas the general, disposed to dichotomy. Hence the very common presence ofthree bracteae to each flower, the central one presenting the leaf fromwhose axil the partial branch springs. 

Stipulae--if the analogy of these be difficult to ascertain, thestructure and functions would appear to be as of leaves, in addition tothe function of protection. In most cases they are certainly not doubleorgans; in Naucleaceae they are apparently so. Can this be explained bysupposing them to form a bud with four scales, the scales instead ofbeing imbricate, being on one plane. Stipellae of Leguminosae arecertainly single; these being all probably stipulate plants, are to beconsidered as having terminal buds, the buds being either totally, orpartially protected by the stipulae. The difficult nature of ochreae ofPolygoneae is certainly to be acknowledged, but they are similar to thoseof Costus, and hence not stipulae, but an extension of the margin of thevaginate petiole, from which veins are prolonged into it; the functionsof these are not stomatose, since they are membranous, the veins beingthe only green parts. 

I see no reason why the stipulae of Rosae are not to be considered asbelonging to, or dilatations of the petiole. They have no distinctvascular fascicles to indicate a distinct origin. And further, in Loweano stipulae exist. 

_Jonesia_: pedicellis apice articulatis, basi bracteolatis, ideoqueinfloresc. Magis composita esse debet; laciniis anticis? corollae?perianth compositum, binatum praebentibus, emarginatio et situs stam 5tirudiment. Staminis laciniis alternatis? basi in annulum, seriem 2indicantem coalit. {111} The situation of the stamens is somewhatobscure, the two lowermost however alternate with the segments, the twointermediate being sometimes sub-opposite. 

Of course if they be opposed, the perianth will be referrible to a calyxif not to a corolla. 

_Lepidostachys_ or Scepa. Fruit dicarpillary, stigmata four, hence theyare placentary not costoid. Bilocular, loculis dispermis, ovula 2 pend; 1abortiv. Semiunceum, testa vix arillus obsacuit clause lutescens carnosaet ab nuclei inter adhaeren. Rad. Sup. Embryo junior viridis. 

Stipulae cad. Gemmam oblegent. 

_Homalineae_, Calycis; laciniae 4, petal 4, Glandulae 4 totidem sepalisoppositae. Connat; stamin 4, petal opposita; styli 4. Ovar non ext. 

Arbor magna. Foliis alternis stipulatis, paniculae racemoso-axillares, Flores minut. Viridescent. Pet. Et sep. Fimbriat. Aestiv. Imbricat. 

_Clematis_ has semina pendula. 

The stipulae of Ficus obviously belong not to the leaves, their insertiontaking place . 5 a line above that of the petiole. Hence they belong asobviously to the elongation of the axis above the leaf; their colorationis curious, especially as they are green when young. Their vernation isconduplicate and plicate. 

_Combretum_ presents several points in common with Rhamneae; valvatecalyx, and tendency to want of petals; to Elaeagneae in calyx andfurfuraceous scales; a decandrous Rhamneae would differ but little inflowers from Combretum. 

_My idea_ of the origin of stigmata is proved to be correct by aPhyllanthus, the carpella of which are ovuliferous below, the upper partbeing fleshy, the stigmata are two to each, obviously corresponding tothe placentary inflexions, while the sinus terminating the dorsal sutureis totally naked; it is this which should bear the stigma if Lindley'sview were correct. 

The true place of Moringa seems to be near Xanthophyllum with which genusit has some remarkable points of resemblance, witness the papilionaceouscorolla; unilocular stamina, their situation, ovary, placentation, andlastly glandulation. 

To this Lindley has made an approximation by placing the order nearViolarieae. Its chief difference from Polygaleae, is habit, foliation, and the perigynous insertion of corolla and stamina, and consequent unionof the sepals. As in Xanthophyllum there is no albumen. 

(An additional Xanthop. Which until to-day I have always taken for aLeguminosa. )

_Tamarindus_ cal 4 partitus, sepals 2, superiorib. Connatis. Pet. 3, vexillo, sepalo postico composit; opposit; stamen tria; sepalis 3, inferior opposita. Stylus aestivation deflexus. 

Pedicelli apice articulat. Folii petiol. Basi articulat. Stipulaeminimae stipellae. 

In Jonesia, there are no petals. Humboldtia comes near Tamarindus, through H. Brunonis, which agrees in calyx and petals. 

Thorns of Prionites, what are they? They are axillary, and yet buds areproduced between them and the axis. They have no connection with theleaves. Were it not for the buds above alluded to, I should say thatthey were abortive branches (bearing one pair of leaves) reduced tospines. 

_Olacineae_. Certainly in habit, corolla, etc. Olacineae are allied toAurantiaceae, but they are nearer akin to Santalaceae. The processes areindubitably modified stamina, with a great tendency to irregularity; inone species from Tagoung only three fertile, and five sterile staminawere observed: the three fertile generally, but not invariably, alternatewith the petals. 

To Santalaceae they approach in processes, valvate corolla, andplacentation, also to Loranthaceae. 

Eight stamina thus accounted for; when two opposed to petals, belong toouter series--also single one. 

In Punica, the structure of the ovaria is highly curious. We find thebottom of the tube is occupied by two cells, partially filled with ovula, which are attached both to the axis and to the base, as well as to thelower part of the outer paries of each cell; so far, it does not departfrom the order, for in Aplexus the placentation is tolerably similar. 

Above these two, are 4-5 cells, filled with ovula, which are attachedentirely to the outer wall of each cell, but the placentae however wouldseem to have an obvious connexion with the axis, although this is verydoubtful. 

The formation of the stigma decidedly indicates a binary formation ofcarpella. 

If these 4 upper cells are 4 constantly, and the base of the ovary is asconstantly two celled, then the explanation is sufficiently obvious, though different from that given by Lindley. {113}

First, we have in the bottom from which the mere structure of an ovary isdeduced, the normal dicarpellary structure, and there is in addition atendency in excess toward a parietal placentation. 

The anomalous formation arises first from parietal placentae beingproduced to the axis, and from spurious growth from the sides of theovary also meeting in the axis, by which the ovula are divided into fourbundles. 

Lindley's view seems to be questionable, because as in all cases thestyles and stigmata are more permanent than ovaries, there should be asmany styles, etc. As ovaries. 2nd, because according to this view theplacental suture of the carpella would be turned from the axis, (look atPomaceae, ) although his view of Pomaceae being right would indicate anadditional affinity with Mespilus, etc. Which it does in habit andabbreviated lateral branches. 

Are all Myrtaceae dicarpellar?

The true nature of the case is pointed out in the instance cited byLindley of a permanent variety of apple, which has 14 cells and 14styles! With regard to Nicotiana and Nolana; have these one or two rowsof carpella?

TECTONA. 

Arbores, trunco crasso, cito ramoso, cortice albido, laevi, tenui. 

Folia siliceo-aspera, inflorescent dichotoma. 

Calyx aestiv. Valvat. Cor infundibul, subregularis laciniis, 5rotundatis, demum reflexis aestivat. Laciniis super 2, omnino exterior, facies barbato-villosa. 

Antherae longit dehiscent, stylus stigma simplex. 

Pubescentia stellata. 

Modo Asclepiadeae, corolla rotata. 

GMELINA VILLOSA. 

Lab. Super. Aestivat. Omnino exterior fl. Axi fere paralleli, pedicellapice bibracteolat. 

Cal. Minim. 5 dentat. 

Cor. Infundibul campanul. Bilab; 4 partit. Stigma bilabiat-lab inferlongiore. 

AROIDEUM. 

Radix maxime napiformis, undique radiculas exserens, et superne e centrospadicem. Spadix pedunculum 3-uncial terminans, basi squamis magnismembranaceis, lineari-oblongis stipatus sursum in corpus fungoiden, capitatum, maximum, purpureo-sanguineum, superficie rugose dilatata. 

Ovar bilocul, diovulat. 

Medio antheras bipoross confertissimas, sessiles, numerosas, basi ovariadistantiora gerens. 

Ovaria fusco-purp, stylus elongatus clavatus, stigma clavato, capitat. 

Odor-floris praeserti marcescentis pessimus. 

Katha in sylvis aridis. 

The fruit of Lagerstramia grandiflora can, I think, be explained byassuming it to consist of several carpella, which by not becoming unitednear the axis, leave an irregular shaped space in the centre; theplacentae are fleshy, the ovule inserted all around. This view does nottake into consideration the situation of the stigmata. The deeper sulcivisible externally correspond to the inflexions of the carpellary leaves;in addition to this, the centre of the dorsum of each of these is markedwith a line. {114})

CHAPTER VII. 

_Report to the Government of India_, _12th July_, _1837_. 

In the following report, I have divided the marches into series, corresponding with the countries through which they were made, reservinga table of the whole for a subsequent part. These series will be asfollows--

1. From Sadiya to Beesa Lacoom. 

2. From Beesa Lacoom to Namtusseek. 

3. From Namtuseek to Wullabhoom. 

4. From Wullabhoom to Mogoung. 

5. From Mogoung to Ava. 

I. FROM SADIYA TO BEESA LACOOM. 

COUNTRY TRAVERSED BELONGING TO THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT, AND FORMING PARTOF THE SOUTH-EAST EXTREMITY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM. 

1. From Sadiya to the Noa Dihing river mouth or Mookh. Direction east. Distance 6 miles performed in boat, the course lying up the Burrumpootur. 

2. From Noa Dihing Mookh to Rangagurrah on the Noa Dihing. DirectionSSE. Distance 12 miles, course lying along the dry bed of the NoaDihing. 

3. From Rangagurrah to Moodoa Mookh, on the same river. Direction south-east, the distance being 12 miles. {115a}

4. From Moodoa Mookh to Kidding. Direction south, the distance 9 miles, course south-east, along the bed of the Noa Dihing as far as Wakhet, thence diverging to SSW. Through heavy jungle. 

5. From Kidding to Namroop Puthar. Direction, nearly south, thedistance being 12 miles, course lying through very heavy jungle, crossesthe Karam Panee, {115b} which here is not fordable, and anotherconsiderable feeder of the Booree Dihing, and lastly up the Namroop. 

6. From Namroop Puthar to Beesa Lacoom. Direction southwest, thedistance 12 miles, the course extending at first over low hills anddifficult ground, thence through heavy jungle intersected by narrowplains, lastly chiefly along the banks of the Darap Panee. 

_Nature of the country_. --It will be seen that with the exceptionof the three first marches, and part of the fourth, the country isoccupied by the heavy jungle so prevalent in these parts. The chiefdifficulties our party experienced arose from the limited manner in whichthe jungle had been cut for their passage. 

_Rivers_. --The only one not fordable in the above route, is the KaramPanee, but this does not hold good either above or below the place Icrossed. They all discharge much water during the rains, and even in thedry season are navigable for small canoes. 

_Villages_. --These are as follows:--

1. _Digalo Gohain Goung_. --On the right bank of the Noa Dihing it isinhabited by Kamptees lately settled in our territory, and is arespectable village. The Noa Dihing here ceases to be navigable even forsmall canoes. 

2. _Wakhet_. --This is a new but wretched village, inhabited by Singphos. Wakhet Gam was an adherent of the Duphas, and is by all account one ofthe worst-disposed Singpho chiefs. He is said even at this period stillto traffic occasionally in slaves. 

3. _Kidding_. --A temporary village, containing about 10 houses, inhabited by Nagas, now naturalised to the plains. 

4. _Namroop Puthar_. --So called from a plain on the left bank of theNamroop. The village, which is a mean and despicable one, is on theopposite bank. 

5. _Beesa Lacoom_. --Is situated on the right bank of the Darap Panee, which is fordable at the heads of the rapids. It contains 12 smallhouses. The Gam is, I believe, an uncle of the Beesa Gam, and exercisesexclusive control over the tribe of Beesa Nagas. This influence heappeared to exercise to our disadvantage. He is a discontented man, andhis behaviour to our party was very unsatisfactory. 

_Population_. {116} --This is scanty enough, particularly when weconsider that the houses in the above villages are much smaller than inthe better sort of Singpho villages. With the exception of the Kampteevillage the average number of people to each house cannot exceed five. Another small Singpho village exists on the Namroop, about 3 miles fromNamroop Puthar, and not far from the site of the coal mine. 

_Capabilities of the Country_. --These are of the usual description. The soil is productive enough, but the labour of clearing the drier spotsis excessive. Excellent rice grounds exist in abundance between BeesaLacoom and Namroop Puthar, but the cultivation of this, as well as of allthe other necessaries, is limited to the quantity absolutely required. Scarcities of grain are of frequent, indeed almost of annual, occurrence;and this is chiefly owing to the pernicious influence of opium or Kanee, to which all our Singphos are immoderately attached. Of the _Mineral__Productions_, coal and petroleum were the only ones we met with. 

_The coal occupies_ the greater portion of a precipitous part of thesandstone composing the left bank of the river Namroop. Three largeveins have been completely exposed by the cutting away of the bank. Thecoal is I believe of good quality. The river immediately under the veinsis very deep, and were it not for the rapids which intervene between thesite of the mineral and the Booree Dihing, it would be difficult toconceive a spot affording similar facilities for the transmission of themineral. I must however, observe, that even in the dry season the riveris navigable for small canoes as far as the site alluded to. During therains no difficulty whatever would be experienced in the carriage, asrafts might be made on the spot. No use is made of the coal by thenatives, nor did they seem to be aware of its nature. 

Of _the Petroleum_ {117} no use whatever is made, although we haveample experience from its universal use by the Burmese, that it is avaluable product both as affording light, and preserving in a very greatdegree all wooden structures from rot and insects. The springs occur infour different places, all close to the Puthar: of these three occur onthe low hill which bounds the Puthar to the southern side, and one on thePuthar itself, at the foot of the range alluded to. The springs areeither solitary, as in that of the Puthar, or grouped, a number together;the discharge varies extremely from a thin greenish aqueous fluid to abluish grey opaque one, of rather a thick consistence: the quantitypoured out by these latter springs is very considerable. On the surfaceof all, but especially on these last, an oleaginous, highly inflammablefluid collects in the form of a thin film. The jungle surrounding thesprings ceases abruptly, the ground around, and among them, being coveredwith stunted grass and a few small herbaceous plants. Elephants andlarge deer are frequent visitors to the springs; of the former, thetracts are frequent, and they are sometimes shot here by the natives. 

_Vegetable Products_. --The jungles afford several kinds of bamboo, someof which are of value; generally speaking the trees are not large, withthe exception of a gigantic Dipterocarpus, wood-oil or dammar tree; ofthis particular tree I have seen specimens measuring 100 feet from thebase to the first branch. The wood is of no value, nor have I seen anyuse made in Assam of the resinous secretion, which is in great vogue onthe Tenasserim Coast for the construction of torches, etc. 

II. FROM BEESA LACOOM TO NAMTUSSEEK. 

COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING PARTS OF THE NAGA RANGE OF HILLS, AND OF THESOUTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM: THE NORTHERN SIDE IS SUBJECT TOBRITISH, THE SOUTHERN TO BURMESE CONTROL. 

1st. STAGE. --_Halting place_ in the jungle, at an elevation of 770 feetabove the sea. Direction SSE. Distance 12 miles, course over low hillscovered with dense jungle. 

2nd. _Darap Panee_. --Altitude 1029 feet. Direction SSE. Distance 12miles, passed over some difficult places; crossed the Darap twice beforewe reached the halting place, course through very heavy jungle, except onthe summits of the higher hills, which are tolerably open. 

3rd. _Namtusseek_, {118} or Tusseek Panee, altitude 1413 feet. DirectionSSE. Distance 12 miles, country more open: summit of the hills coveredwith grass and scattered trees. The highest hill surmounted wascertainly 1000 feet above our halting place. 

4th. Namtusseek, or Tusseek Panee, altitude (not observed). DirectionSSE. Distance 10 miles, course almost entirely up the bed of the riverover boulders, occasionally skirting the stream through heavy and wetjungle. 

5th. _Yoomsan nullah_, near the foot of the Patkaye. Alt. 3026 feet;direction SSE. Distance 4 miles. Course for a short time along the bedof the Namtusseek, until we crossed a small stream, the Tukkakha: thenascended a mountain, about 3500 feet high; on reaching the summit wedescended until we reached the halting place. 

6th. _Nam-maroan_, or Maroan-kha. {119a} Alt. 2500 feet. DirectionESE. Distance 15 miles. Ascended until we reached the summit of thePatkaye; the ascent was in some places very steep, and owing to theunsettled state of the weather, very difficult. Reached the boundarynullah, along which we proceeded for some time; we then commenced thedescent, which was steep, and continued so, until we reached theNam-maroan. The extreme elevation we reached was rather more than 5000feet. {119b}

7th. _Nam-maroan_. --Altitude estimated 2000 feet. Direction ESE. Distance 10 miles, course along the bed of the stream; ground difficult, and much impeded by boulders. 

8th. _Nam-maroan_. --Altitude not taken. Direction ESE. Distance 7miles. Course the same, but of a less difficult nature. 

9th. _Khathung khioung_. {119c}--Altitude 1622 feet. Direction E. ByS. Distance 7 miles, course continues along the Nam-maroan, the wholeway: ground much less difficult. Passed close to a Singpho village oftwo houses; some Puthars which bore traces of having once been cultivatedand inhabited occurred on this march. 

10th. _Khussee-khioung_. --Altitude 3516. Direction E. By S. Distance13 miles, left almost immediately the Khathung Kioung, and commencedascending. Ascent in some places very steep and difficult, and continueduntil we had reached an elevation of 5600 feet. The descent thencommenced, and continued until we reached the Khussee-khioung, passingalong for some distance the Natkaw-khioung. The descent was occasionallydifficult, owing to broken ground; tree jungle occurred almost throughoutthe whole distance. 

11th. Kuttack Bhoom. {119d}--Altitude 3270. General direction S. Distance 13 miles. Left the Khussee-khioung, but reached it again beforelong. Continued to descend considerably, until we reached the Nam-thuga, thence the descent increased considerably. Halted on an open grassyspot, from which an extensive view of the valley of Hookhoom is obtained. 

12th. _Namtusseek_. --Altitude 1099 feet. General direction ESE. Distance 10 miles. Descended from Kuttack Bhoom, until we reached theLoonkharankha, then ascended considerably. The descent then recommenced, until we reached the Namtusseek. Heavy jungle occurred throughout. Pathoccasionally difficult, becoming as we approached the base of the rangevery wet. We crossed several small mountain streams. 

_General features of the hills_. --The prevailing formationappears to be sandstone, and connected with this we have rounded summits, not attaining a great elevation, and a considerable depth of soil. Thelower ranges are throughout covered with heavy tree jungle. This becomesexcessively thick and wet along the water courses, which are of frequentoccurrence towards the base of the range, both on the northern andsouthern sides. But from an elevation of 1000 feet to that of Yoomsan, agreat change for the better takes place on the northern face, the hillsbeing covered with clay, and generally not very high grass jungle, amongwhich trees are scattered. This character is particularly evident alongboth sides of the valley drained by the Namtusseek of the northern side. The Patkaye is wooded to its summit; the jungle on the south side beingmuch more humid than that on the northern. Indeed on this face of therange, with the exception of the Puthars on the Nam-maroan, scarcely morethan two open spots exist, and both of these are of small extent. Ofthese one exists at an elevation of 5500 feet, and one at Kuttack Bhoom. 

The paths although very often steep, are easy enough for coolies, exceptduring wet weather, when they become very slippery. With some degree ofpreparation the worst places might be made passable for lightly loadedelephants, and this would be facilitated by the soft nature of most ofthe rocks. The most difficult marches are those which lie along the bedsof the streams, and these, it has been seen, are far the most numerous;they are particularly difficult for elephants, the boulders affording avery precarious footing to these weighty animals. The difficulty is muchincreased by rain, when even coolies find considerable difficulty inmaking any progress. Several elephants accompanied Major White as far asthe Darap Panee, and a small suwaree elephant, loaded with a light tent, succeeded in reaching Yoomsan. The southern side of the range isdecidedly of a more difficult nature than the northern, and it is inaddition of greater extent: the highest point traversed is 5600 feetabove the level of the sea. The range might be traversed by a lightlyloaded active native in six days. 

_Streams_. --These all partake of the usual nature of mountain torrents;they are all fordable during the cold weather, the principal ones beingcrossed at the heads of the rapids. The boundary nullah is a merestreamlet: it runs between two ridges of the Patkaye: its course beingabout ESE. And WNW. Owing to the frequency of the streams and theirmountainous nature, I should imagine that this route is impracticableduring the rains. 

_Villages_. --Not a single village or house exists directly on the route. One small Naga village is visible from the Namtusseek below Yoomsan, anda detached hut is visible here and there on a high mountain close to, andNE. Of Yoomsan. On the Burmese side there is, as I have mentionedbefore, a village consisting of two houses close to the route. Thisvillage has lately been established by some Singphos from Nimbrung, several marches to the eastward. 

_Population_. --I certainly did not see 100 Nagas throughout the timepassed in traversing these hills, although I am satisfied that every manwithin a reasonable distance came into Camp in the hopes of sharing inthe extensive distribution of presents. From the appearance of thecountry about Yoomsan, and the valley of the Namtusseek, I am inclined tothink that the population was at one time considerable. The openness ofthe country, which is as I have previously said chiefly clothed withgrass, and the peculiar and generally imperfect aspect of the trees, canonly be accounted for, by supposing the country to have been extensivelycleared, particularly when it is remembered that the highest portions ofthe range are thickly wooded. But allowing this supposition to becorrect, it is no proof, that the total population has been on thedecline, for we must take into account, the wandering nature of all hilltribes. In forming an opinion of a hill population, which in all timesand places has, in this country at least, been found scanty, we must takecare not to confound the temporary huts, erected in khets, for thepurpose of protecting the cultivation, with actually inhabited houses; tothe former description I think the detached houses mentioned as beingvisible from Yoomsan are to be referred. 

The Nagas, at least the men, for I saw no women, are a small, active, large-legged race, with Tartar faces. They are divided into very manytribes, each of which has some peculiarity of costume. Those I saw weredecidedly inferior to any of the other hill tribes with which I amacquainted. Their clothing is miserable, the chief protection consistingof a number of rings, made of rattan, which encircle the abdomen. Theyare as usual excessively dirty, and much attached to the use of tobaccoand ardent spirits. Their wants are few, but even these are miserablysupplied. They entertain an unbounded fear of the Singphos, who appearto make any use of them they think proper. Their only weapons arespears, Singpho dhas and battle axes. 

The Singphos cannot be considered otherwise than as encroachers. Invasions of these restless marauders appear not to have been uncommon upto a late date. The remains of two stockades, in which they hadentrenched themselves were extant, one close to Yoomsan, the other on theS. Face of the Patkaye. I have before said that the puthars on the Nam-maroan bore evidence of having been inhabited, and apparently to someextent. But even during the stay of Major White on these hills, anirruption of Singphos from Nimbrung had taken place, and had totallyunsettled the peace of the native inhabitants. Such things must beexpected to occur, particularly when it is well known that the Burmese, the only power to which they are subjects, can exercise no authority overthe Singphos in any one direction, except when they have a large armedforce in the valley of Hookhoom. 

_Of the Capabilities_ of the country it would be vain to attemptgiving an opinion. Scarcely any cultivation was passed on the route. Thesoil is generally deep, more or less yellow, and somewhat clayey; thehollows having a thin superstratum of black mould. Taking the desertedstate of the country into account, this part of the Naga range is oflittle importance, except as forming portion of a most natural and welldefined boundary, compared with other portions of the same range to thewestward. 

_Products_. --The principal mineral product is salt, an article which isprocured abundantly in some other more available points of the range. Wesaw one small spring on the Namtusseek, from which supplies had beenlately taken. 

_Vegetable Products_. --Fine timber trees occur here and there. Oaks, Magnolias and Chesnuts occur not uncommonly, the Magnolias being of thesein this range the most characteristic of elevation. The horse chesnut ofAssam, (Osculus Asamicus mihi) occurs on both sides of the range, butdoes not ascend further than 3, 000 feet. No Fir trees exist on theroute, nor is it probable that they exist on the range in this direction. One of the most interesting plants is a new species of tea, which Ibelieve to be a genuine Thea; it is called Bun Fullup, or jungle tea, bythe Assamese, in contra-distinction to the true tea plant, which iscalled Fullup. This species makes its appearance at an elevation ofabout 1, 000 feet, and is met with as high up as 4, 000 feet. It attainsthe size of a tree of 30 feet in height; it is used only as a medicine. No real tea exists on this route; several plants were pointed out to meas tea, but all were spurious instances. The higher portions of theranges have a flora approaching in many instances to that of northernlatitudes. As examples of this, it will be sufficient to allude, inaddition to the trees mentioned above, to the existence of two species ofDaphne, one of Barberry, several species of a genus nearly allied to theWhortle Berries, a Violet, and several species of Smilacineae, to whichorder the Lily of the Valley belongs. 

In concluding this part of my report, I may perhaps be permitted toadvert to the question of the possibility of transporting a body of armedmen into the Burmese dominions by this route. Although there is nothingin the nature of this portion of the boundary which would render thisoperation very difficult, yet considering the state of the adjoiningparts of Upper Assam, and that of Hookhoom, it becomes almostimpracticable. I allude to the extreme difficulty of procuring grain inUpper Assam, in which, at least around Sadiya, annual scarcities are byno means uncommon, and to the utter impossibility of drawing any suppliesfrom Hookhoom in its present miserable state. All the necessary supplieswould require to be drawn from Lower Assam, and for the transport ofthese the scanty population of this extremity of the valley would by nomeans be sufficient. Bearing on this point it must be remembered, thatfrom the 1st of April to the 1st November, these hills cannot betraversed except by their native inhabitants, without incurring greatrisk from the usual severe form of jungle fever. 

III. FROM NAMTUSSEEK TO WULLABOOM. 

COUNTRY TRAVERSED SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY, FORMING GREATER PORTIONOF THE VALLEY OF HOOKHOONG, OR THE PAEENDWENG. 

March 1. _From Namtusseek to Nhempean_. --Direction E. Distance 18miles, crossed the Namtusseek, then passed through heavy tree jungle, andsubsequently over extensive grassy plains. 

2. _From Nhempean to Nidding_. --Direction SSE. Distance 4. 5miles, course along the Namtoroan, thence up the Saxsaikha. 

3. _From Nidding to Kulleyang_. --Direction SSE. Distance 13miles, country covered either with tree or high grass jungle. Passed adeserted village, Thilling Khet. 

4. _From Kulleyang to Isilone_. --Direction SW. Distance 10 miles, country rather more open. Puthars are of common occurrence; passed asmall village, Damoon. 

5. _From Tsilone to Meinkhoong_. --Distance 17 miles, course atfirst along the Namtunai, {124a} country open, consisting of grassyplains; several nullahs occur. 

6. _From Meinkhoon to Wullabhoom_. --Direction SE. Distance 13miles. Course over plains intersected by tree jungle, subsequently upthe bed of the Nempyo-kha. 

_Nature of the Country_. --The valley of Hookhoong, or as theBurmese call it, in allusion to its amber mines, Paeendweng, is of smallextent. Its greatest diameter is in the direction of E. To W. , {124b}its southern termination being within a few miles from Wullabhoom. It issurrounded on all sides by hills, the highest of which are towards theNE. And E. ; none however would appear to exceed 6000 feet in height; andfrom their appearance, I imagine they are wooded to their summits. Thelowest hills are those which form the southern boundary, and thesescarcely deserve the name. From Kuttack-bhoom a fine view of the valleyis obtained; it is here very narrow, and does not I should think exceed25 miles in breadth. The features of the country are in a strikingdegree similar to those of Upper Assam, that is, it presents a plainsurface intersected frequently by belts of jungle, the parts at the baseof the boundary hills being exclusively occupied by heavy jungle. Thegeneral elevation of the plain above the sea may be estimated at about1000 feet, so that it is several hundred feet above the level of Sadiya. But although this is the case, the valley of Hookhoom undergoes the samechanges during the rainy season as Assam, the greater part being duringthat period under water. 

_Of the Climate_ it is perhaps presumptuous to give any opinion; itis however by no means so cold as that of Upper Assam. In April thedaily range of the thermometer was very considerable, from 60 degrees to88 degrees. The rains set in later than on the northern side of thePatkaye, and they are said to be much less severe. 

_The rivers_ are numerous, the principal one is the Namtunai, {125}which subsequently assumes the name of Kyeendweng. This is in the placesI saw it a large, generally deep and sluggish stream, varying in breadthfrom 270 to 350 yards. The next in size is the Namtoroan, which has moreof the character of a mountain stream; it is of considerable breadth(opposite Nhempean it is 270 yards across, ) and presents numerous rapids. Both of these rivers are navigable for boats of some size. The otherrivers are small and insignificant; all fall into the Namtoroan orNamtunai. 

_Villages_. --Of these the following were passed on the route:--

1. _Nhempean_, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, is situated on anextensive open grassy plain, it is stockaded: it contains about 12houses, the river is here navigable for middling sized canoes. 

2. _Tubone_, on the same bank, but lower down, and within quarter of amile of Nhempean, it is of about the same size, and similarly stockaded. 

3. _Nidding_, on the left bank of the Saxsai-kha, about three-quartersof a mile above its junction with the Namtoroan: it is a stockadedvillage, and about the same size. 

4. _Calleyang_, on the Prong-kha contains about 8 houses: it is notstockaded. 

5. _Lamoon_, on the Moneekha, is a very small village, containing fouror five houses: it is not stockaded. 

6. _Tsilone_, on the left bank of the Namtunai. This is the Dupha Gam'svillage: it is of the ordinary size, and is stockaded in the usualmanner. 

7. _Meinkhoon_, on the Cadeekha, by which it is intersected; it consistsof two stockades, separated by the above stream; and contains about 25houses, none of which are however large. It is here that the firstPagodas (Poongye houses) occur. The village is situated on an opengrassy plain of considerable extent. 

8. _Wullabhoom_, on the right bank of the Nemokapy, an insignificantstream. This village is not stockaded; it contains about 10 houses, ofwhich several are of the Singpho structure. 

The Gam of this village was in expectation of an attack from the Duphapeople, and had in consequence erected a small square stockade for hisown use; he had however built it so small that he might easily bedislodged by means of a long spear. 

In addition to these, there is a village called _Bone_, on the Namtoroan;the path leading to this is crossed soon after leaving Namtusseek, andanother stockaded village, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, a littlebelow the mouth of the Saxsai-kha. 

None of the above villages are situated on strong positions. Thestockades are as usual of bamboo, and are but weak defences; the spacebetween the stockade and the outer palisades is covered with shortpointed bamboos, placed obliquely in the ground: these are called Panjahsby the Assamese; they inflict very troublesome wounds, and areuniversally employed by the Singphos. The interiors of the stockades aredirty, the houses are built without order, and generally fill thestockade completely, so that the people inside might be burnt out withthe greatest ease. The average number of houses in each of the abovevillages, may be estimated at about 12, of these the largest occur atWullaboom. They are built on muchowns, and resemble in all respectsthose of our Assam Singphos. They are generally thatched with grass(Imperata cylindrica. {126} ) The larger kinds have invariably one endunenclosed; under this portico, which is usually of some size, all thedomestic operations are carried on. The Dupha Gam's is not distinguishedabove the rest in any one way. 

_Population_. --No country inhabited by sets of petty chieftains belongingto different tribes, which are generally at enmity with each other, canbe populous; it is therefore with considerable surprise that I find itstated that the number of houses in the north and eastern sides of thevalley is estimated at not less than 3000, which at the rate of 7 men toone house, which is, considering the great size of very many Singphohouses, rather underrated, would make the population of these portions ofthe valley amount to 21, 000 souls. The part of the valley which I havetraversed, and during which route 75 miles of ground were passed over, does not present a single sign which, in the absence of direct evidence, would lead one to suppose that it contained a considerable population. During the before mentioned marches, I saw only four paths, crossing ordiverging from that which we followed. Of these, one _leads_, as I havementioned, to Bone, one to the hills on the NE. , one to a Singphovillage, some miles to the south of our track, and the fourth divergedfrom the path leading to the Amber mines through the village of a chiefcalled Tharapown Hhoung. The population on the above route of 75 miles, would at the rate of 7 men to one house, and 12 houses to each village, amount only to 840, but I think that 1, 100 or 1, 200 would be a fairerestimate. From Kuttack-bhoom, as I have mentioned, a great portion ofthe valley is distinctly seen, and nothing meets the eye but jungle, broken here and there by the waters of the Namtunai: not a clearing iseven visible; instead of a population of 30, 000, as has been stated Ishould imagine that the whole valley of Hookhoom does not contain morethan 12, 000. 

The above population consists almost entirely of Singphos and theirAssamese slaves, and these last form a considerable portion. This wasparticularly evident at Wulla-khoon, where they certainly out-numberedtheir masters. 

The Singphos of Hookhoong resemble exactly those located in Assam: theyare however less given to opium eating. They are of the same indolenthabits, and content themselves with cultivating sufficient grain to keepthemselves from starving. The women wear the Thumein, or Burmese dress, a costume which is entirely unknown among the Singphos of Assam. Themost superior men I saw belonged to the Lupai tribe, from the east of theIrrawaddi; they had come to Meinkhoon for the purpose of procuring amber. In manners and dress they resembled the Shan-Chinese, they were providedwith firelocks, in the use of which they were certainly adroit. Theusual weapons of the Hookhoong Singphos are dhas and spears. I saw veryfew muskets. 

The behaviour of these people was throughout civil, and perhaps friendly. Their hatred of the Burmese is excessive, the visits of the armed forcesof this nation being most harassing and oppressive. They are sub-dividedinto tribes, among whom there is but little unanimity. The Dupha Gam ismuch disliked, as he is considered the cause of the visit of the Burmese. His power has been much exaggerated; he is not capable of bringing 500men into the field. So unpopular was he, that it was reported to Mr. Bayfield, that he was to be cut off immediately the Burmese force hadleft the valley. 

In giving the foregoing low estimate of the population of the valley, Ibelieve I have taken into consideration every circumstance of importance. The occurrence of several old burial places on the route, some of whichare of considerable extent, might be considered by some as a proof, thatthe population has undergone a decrease; but I conceive that it issufficiently accounted for by the wandering habits of the people. 

_Capabilities_. --The greater part of the valley is well adapted for thecultivation of rice, and as the soil is generally rich, approaching inexternal characters to that of some parts of Upper Assam, particularlyMuttack, it is capable of supporting a large population. 

_Products_. --Of the mineral productions, the most remarkable is Amber, for which the valley of Hookhoong has been long famous, and from theexistence of which it derives its Burmese name. The mines are situatedin low, wooded hills, from which they are distant between five and sixmiles; of this distance the first three miles traverse the plain on whichMeinkhoong is situated. The pits now worked give occupation to about adozen people; they occur on the brow of a hill: they are square, and ofvarious depth, the deepest being about 40 feet, the diameter notexceeding three feet; the workmen ascending and descending by placingtheir feet in holes made in two faces of the square. No props are usedto prevent the sides of the pits from falling in, the tenacity of thesoil rendering this precaution unnecessary. The instruments used, aresmall wooden shovels, a wooden crow-bar tipped with iron for displacingthe soil or breaking the rocks, baskets for removing the substances sodisplaced, buckets made of the bark of trees {128} for removing the waterwhich is met with in the deepest pits, and rude levers similar to thoseused in Madras for the purposes of irrigation, for carrying the soil, etc. From the pits to the surface; these however are only used in thedeeper pits, a hooked bamboo answering the purpose in the shallower ones. 

The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of from 15to 20 feet, is clayey and red: the remainder consists of a greyish-blackcarbonaceous earth, increasing in density with the depth, and being veryhard at a depth of 40 feet. The amber occurs in both these, the clue toits existence being the presence of small masses of lignite. Thesearching occupies but very little time, as the presence of the ligniteis readily ascertained; all I saw dug out occurred as small irregulardeposits; it did not appear to be abundant. The people appear to have noguide for the selections of favourable spots on which to commence theiroperations; but having once met with a good pit, they dig other pits allaround, and often within a distance of two feet from the first one sunk. 

I could not succeed in procuring a single fine specimen; indeed theworkmen denied having found any of value during the last six years! Itis an article in great request among the Chinese and Singphos; at thepits, however, it is not high priced, and a first rate pair of ear-ringsare procurable at Meinkhoong for 5 tickals; in Assam 10 rupees areoccasionally given. Meinkhoong is annually visited by parties of Shan-Chinese, for the purpose of procuring this mineral; the caravan at thetime I passed this village had returned, and I believe was met by Mr. Bayfield. There was a small party of Lupai Singphos from the East of theIrrawaddi, consisting of a Tsonba and six or seven followers stillwaiting for a supply. 

The spot occupied by pits is considerable, but three-fourths of these areno longer worked. Compared with the Serpentine mines, they are but ofsmall value. 

Both _Coal and Salt_ exist in the valley; the only indication of theexistence of the former I saw, was a mass of lignite in the bed of anullah between Tsilone and Meinkhoong. 

_Vegetable products_. --Fine timber trees, {129} which belong to thesame genus as the Saul, occur between Nhempean and Namtusseek, andelsewhere towards the foot of the hills surrounding the valley. 

The Mulberry of Upper Assam occurs likewise, and the leaves supply withfood a species of silkworm. From the silk a coarse species of cloth ismanufactured, but the use of this appears to be very limited. 

Tea appears to be of uncommon occurrence. The only specimens I saw weregiven me by Mr. Bayfield, they were procured from low hills some distancefrom Shellingket. On this subject Mr. Bayfield made very frequent andminute enquiries, and the result appears to be that the plant is of rareoccurrence; none exists towards or about the amber mines. 

The Room of Upper Assam (Ruellia Indigofera Mihi) is in use for dyeingcloths, but not so much so as in Assam. 

The cultivated plants are of the ordinary kind; and the produce is justsufficient to meet the wants of the inhabitants. Owing to the presenceof the Myoowoon's force, rice was scarce during my visit; the price wasseven tickals a basket, each of which contains about 30 days' supply forone man. 

The domestic animals are of the ordinary description: fowls forming theonly poultry. But on this subject it is unnecessary to enlarge, as thehabits and manners of the people are precisely the same as those of theAssamese Singphos. 

IV. FROM WULLABHOOM TO MOGOUNG. 

COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING CONSIDERABLE PORTION OF THE MOGOUNG VALLEY, THROUGHOUT SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY. 

March 1. _Halted_ on a small stream, a tributary of the Mogoungriver. --Direction nearly S. Distance 22 miles, course at first along theNamphyet, thence over low hills, forming part of the S. Boundary of thevalley of Hookhoong. 

2. _Halted_ on the Mogoung river. --Direction S. Distance 22 miles, oversimilar low hills until we reached the Mogoung river after a march offour hours, soon descending into its bed, which we followed. 

3. _Mogoung_ river. --Direction S. Distance 13 miles, course along thebed of the river. 

4. _Mogoung_ river. ---Direction SE. Distance 14 miles, course continuedalong the bed of the river. 

5. _Kamein_. --Direction SSE. Distance 14 miles: on starting left theMogoung river: course throughout over fine open high plains intersectedby belts of jungle. 

6. _From Kamein to Mogoung_. --Direction SSE. Distance 25 miles, course over high open plains and dry woods. Many nullahs occurred on theroute: crossed the Mogoung river opposite to Kamein. 

_Nature of the Country_. --The low hills which are passed beforereaching the Mogoung river, are covered with tree jungle, but they affordscarcely any thing of interest; they are here and there intersected bysmall plains, covered with the usual grasses. {130} The countrytraversed while following the Mogoung river, is most uninteresting, theroad following almost entirely the sandy bed of the river, the banks ofwhich are either covered with grass or tree jungle. On leaving this mosttortuous river, the face of the country improved and became verypicturesque, presenting almost exclusively fine high, and ratherextensive plains covered with grass, and partially with trees, while hereand there they are intersected by strips of dry tree jungle. Low hillsare visible frequently, especially to the eastward. 

_Villages and Towns_. 

1. _Kamein_, on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the junction ofthe Endaw-khioung, consists of two stockades, one on a small hill theother at the foot. Both together contain about 32 houses. Theinhabitants are Shans. It is a place of some consequence, as it is onthe route from Mogoung to the Serpentine mines. From Kamein, Shewe DownGyee, a conspicuous mountain, so called, bears east. 

2. _Mogoung_, on the right bank of the river of the same name, justbelow the junction to the Namyeen Khioung, contains rather fewer than 300houses. Although it contains so few houses it is a place of considerableextent. It is surrounded by the remains of a timber stockade, similar inconstruction to those of Burmah proper. The houses are mostly small, andI speak within bounds when I say, that there is not a single one thatbears the stamp of respectability. There is a bazaar, but nothing goodis procurable in it. Tea and sugar-candy are rare and high priced. Porkis plentiful. Mogoung is situated in a plain of some extent, this plainis surrounded in almost every direction by hills, all of which, with theexception of Shewe Down Gyee, are low: the nearest of these are aboutthree miles off. 

The inhabitants are mostly Shans, there are some Assamese, the chief ofwhom is a relation of Chundra Kant, the ex-Rajah of Assam. The beststreet in the town, though one of small extent, is that occupied by theresident Chinese, none of whom however are natives of China proper. Ofthis people I should say there are barely 60 in Mogoung, and, judgingfrom their houses, none of which are of brick, I should say they are veryinferior to their fellow-countrymen residing in Bamo. 

During our stay in Mogoung, which was protracted owing to the disturbedstate of the country, the population was much increased by Shan-Chinesereturning from the Serpentine mines; and as there was a considerablenumber of boats engaged by them for the transportation of the Serpentine, the town looked busier than it otherwise would have done. 

The Mogoung, river is here about 100 yards broad, but it is muchsubdivided by sand banks: it is navigable for moderate sized boats aconsiderable distance above the town. In the upper part of the coursethis river abounds with fish to an unprecedented degree; of these themost numerous is the Bokhar of Assam, and of this I have seen shoals ofimmense extent. 

The Namyeen is a small and shallow stream. Although from the extent ofthe stockade Mogoung has evidently in former periods (during the Shandynasty) been of extent and consequence, it is at present a mean andpaltry town. It derives any little consequence it possesses from beingthe rendezvous of the Shan-Chinese, who flock here annually for procuringSerpentine. 

The most valuable product of the Mogoung district is the Serpentine; themines producing which, we visited from Kamein. The marches are asfollows, 1. _From Kamein to Endawkhioung_. --Direction SSW. Distance 10miles, course over low hills covered with jungle, with intervening grassyvalleys of small extent; crossed the Isee Een nullah. 

2. _Halted on a plain_, on a patch of ground lately undercultivation. Direction SSW. Distance 14 miles. Course over a similartract of country; continued for some time close to the Endawkhioung;crossed several nullahs. 

3. _Halted in the jungle_. --Direction WNW. Distance 17 miles. Country the same: we changed our course on reaching the path which leadsto Kionkseik, a Singpho village, diverging to the N. ; halted within ashort distance of Kuwa Bhoom. 

4. _Reached the mines_. --Direction WNW. Distance 10 miles, courseover small plains and through jungle until we reached Kuwa Bhoom, whichwe ascended in a WNW. Direction, extreme altitude attained 2, 799 feet. The descent was steep, varied by one or two steep ascents of some hundredfeet in height. On nearing the base of the range we continued throughheavy and wet jungle, until we arrived at the mines. 

These celebrated Serpentine {132} mines occupy a valley of somewhat semi-circular form, and bounded on all sides by thickly wooded hills of nogreat height. To the north the valley passes off into a ravine, downwhich a small streamlet that drains the valley escapes, and along this, at a distance of two or three miles, another spot of ground affordingSerpentine is said to occur. The valley is small: its greatest diameter, which is from E. To W. Being about three-quarters of a mile, and itssmallest breadth varying from 460 to 600 or 700 yards. 

The whole of the valley, which appears formerly to have been occupied byrounded hillocks, presents a confused appearance, being dug up in everydirection, and in the most indiscriminate way; no steps being taken toremove the earth, etc. That have been thrown up in various places duringthe excavations. Nothing in fact like a pit or a shaft exists, nor isthere any thing to repay one for the tediousness of the march fromKamein. 

The stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders mixedwith other boulders of various rocks and sizes imbedded in brick-colouredyellow or nearly orange-coloured clay, which forms the soil of thevalley, and which is of considerable depth. The excavations vary much inform, some resembling trenches; none exceed 20 feet in depth. Theworkmen have no mark by which to distinguish at sight the Serpentine fromthe other boulders; to effect this, fracture is resorted to, and thisthey accomplish, I believe, by means of fire. I did not see the mannerin which they work, or the tools they employ, all the Shans having leftfor Kamein, as the season had already been over for some days. No goodspecimens were procurable. The workmen reside in the valley, drawingtheir supplies from Kioukseik. 

On our road to the mines we met daily, and especially on the last march, parties of Shan-Chinese, Burmese, and a few Singphos on their return. Ofthese in all Mr. Bayfield counted about 1, 100, of whom about 700 wereShan-Chinese: these were accompanied by ponies, which they ordinarily useas beasts of burden. The larger blocks of stone were carried by four orfive men, on bamboo frames; the smaller, but which still are ofconsiderable size, on ingenious frames which rest on the nape of thecoolies' neck; the frame has two long arms which the bearer grasps in hishand, and which enables him to relieve himself of his burden, andre-assume it without much sacrifice of labour, as he props his loadagainst a tree, which is then raised by the legs of the frame some heightfrom the ground. The valley we visited affords I believe the greatestquantity of the stone, which is said to be annually diminishing, neitherare pieces of the finest sort so often procurable as they were formerlywont to be. 

The path to the mines is on the whole good; it is choked up here andthere by jungle, and the occurrence of one or two marshy placescontribute to render it more difficult. It bears ample evidences ofbeing a great thoroughfare. 

The greater part of the stone procured is removed in the large masses, toKioukseik, and thence by water by the aid of the Endawkhioung to Mogoung. At this place duties are levied upon it. Hence almost the whole is takento Topo by water. From this place the Shan-Chinese carry it to their owncountry on ponies. 

From the stone various ornaments are made; from the inferior kind, bangles, cups, etc. And from the superior, which is found in smallportions generally within the larger masses, rings, etc. The stone is, Iam informed by Mr. Bayfield, cut by means of twisted copper wire. Theprice of the inferior kind is high. 

It is from these mines that the province of Mogoung derives itsimportance; so much so, that its revenue is said to exceed that of anyother Burman Province. The sum derived from the Serpentine alone isstated to be occasionally as high as 40, 000 Rs. Per annum. 

Owing to the avidity with which this product is sought after by theChinese, it is highly desirable to ascertain whether it exists in Assam, which indeed is probably the case. I believe it is reported to existnear Beesa; at any rate, blood-stone is found in this extremity of thevalley of Assam, and this, in Chinese eyes, is of considerable value. Ifthe Serpentine is found, specimens should be sent to Mogoung. As theShan-Chinese are reported to be a most penurious race, a small reductionin the price below that of the Burmese, would suffice to divert thecurrent of the trade into Assam. Another interesting product, althoughof no value, exists in the shape of an Alkaline spring on the SapiyaKhioung, which hence derives its name. The water of this spring bubblesup sparingly and quietly from under the rocky bed of the above mountaintorrent, it is quite clear, of a decided and pure alkaline taste: it isused by the natives for the purpose of washing, and it answers thisremarkably well. Of this interesting spring Mr. Bayfield took specimensfor analysis. 

Salt is procurable within a distance of three or four days fromKioukseik. 

_Vegetable products_. --Teak, and some of it is of a fine description, occurs both on the route between the Mogoung river and Kamein, as well asbetween Kamein and the Serpentine mines. The natives do not howeverappear to cut it, probably owing to the want of water carriage. Finetimber trees, nearly allied to the Saul, likewise occur on the road tothe mines. 

I met with the tea but once. This occurred among the low hills dividingthe Mogoung district from the valley of Hookhoong, close to the Dupai-beng-kheoung, or Tea tree Nullah. There was no difference in thespecimens brought to me from the plant of Assam, with the exception thatthe leaves were even larger than in the plant alluded to; it did notoccur in abundance. It exists I believe, in another place on this route, and among the same hills, but I did not succeed in procuring specimens. Throughout both routes scarcely any cultivation was seen. Between theMogoung river and Mogoung town considerable portions of some low hills tothe East, presented the appearance of clearings. It must however beobserved, that the appearance of clearings is a most fallacious ground onwhich to form an estimate of the population; 1st, owing to the habits ofa nomadic population; 2ndly, because a spot once cleared, keeps up theappearance of a clearing for a long time; and 3rdly, because someparticular spots are, from some local cause or other, exclusivelyinhabited by grasses, the prevalence of which will at a little distancealways give one the idea of cultivation. 

_Population_. --This in the somewhat extensive tract of the Mogoungdistrict traversed, is very scanty. That of Mogoung and suburbs may beestimated at about 1, 600, and that of Kamein at 250. In addition tothese places, I have to mention a small Singpho village of three or fourhouses, seen on a range of hills during our first march towards themines, and bearing about WNW. , and Kioukseik. This latter place wevisited on our return from the mines, it is a stockaded village, containing 16 houses, and about 120 souls. It is situated about 100yards from a small stream, the Nam Teen: it is inhabited by Singphos: itis about a mile from the divergence of the road to the mines, and bearsfrom this spot nearly due south. During the season of operations at themines it is a place of some consequence, as all the necessary supplies ofgrain are procured from it. At the time of our visit, there was a goodsized bazaar along the Nam Teen, which was likewise a good deal crowdedby boats. 

The neighbouring hills are inhabited here and there by Kukkeens, the mosttroublesome perhaps of all mountainous tribes; but there are some othervillages about the lake, called the Endawgyee. We had an opportunity ofviewing from a distance the above lake on our return from the mines. Froman open spot on the eastern face of Kuwa Bhoom, it bore nearly due south, and was estimated as being 15 miles distant. We could not distinguishits outline, but we saw enough to satisfy us that it was a large body ofwater. It is situated in an extensive plain near a range of hills, partof which form portion of its banks. From the same spot we could seeShewe Down Gyee, the large range from which the Namtunai takes itscourse, bearing nearly due east, and at an estimated distance of 35miles; the situation of the mines is therefore nearly due east fromKamein. 

V. FROM MOGOUNG TO AVA. 

THE WHOLE OF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO ABOVE PLACES WAS PERFORMED BYWATER. 

The time occupied in descending the Mogoung river was three days. Thisriver is exceedingly tortuous, generally a good deal subdivided, and itschannels are in many places shallow. The chief obstacle it presents tonavigation consists in rapids, which commence below Tapan, and continuefor some distance; these rapids are not severe, but are rendereddifficult by the presence of rocks, many of large size. These rapidscommence immediately the river in its course approaches some low rangesof hills. Boats of considerable size however manage to reach Mogoung;they ascend the severer rapids in channels made along the sides of theriver, by removing and piling up on either side the boulders which formgreat part of the bed of the river in these places. The descent ismanaged in the same way, the speed of the boat being retarded by the crewexerting their united force in an opposite direction. On leaving theproximity of the hills, the river resumes its natural and rather slowcharacter, and towards its mouth there is scarcely any stream at all. Thechannels are much impeded by stumps of trees. The country through whichthe Mogoung river passes is very uninteresting, and almost exclusivelyjungle, either tree or high grass. 

Only one village, Tapan, is met with; this is small, and is situated onthe right bank; with the exception of its river face it is stockaded. Atthis place the Shan-Chinese leave the river, striking off in an E. Direction towards the Irrawaddi, which they reach in one day. Weobserved a small Kukkeen village on some hills near Tapan; with theseexceptions no sign of inhabitants occurred until we reached theIrrawaddi. On the hills above alluded to, the bitter Tea is reported toexist. The Mogoung river at its mouth is about 70 yards across. TheIrrawaddi even at the mouth of the Mogoung river, and at a distance ofnearly 800 miles from the sea, keeps up its magnificent character. Atthis point it is 900 or 1, 000 yards across; when we reached it, it hadrisen considerably, and the appearance of this vast sheet of water wasreally grand. Its characters are very different from the Ganges andBurrumpooter, its waters being much more confined to one bed, andcomparatively speaking becoming seldom spread out. Generally speaking itis deep and the stream is not violent. It appears to me to afford everyfacility for navigation; in one or two places troublesome shallows aremet with, and in several places the channel near the banks is impeded byrocks. It is only in the upper defile, or Kioukdweng, that thenavigation is during the rises of the river dangerous, and at timesimpracticable. On our reaching Tsenbo, which is about 12 miles below thejunction of the Mogoung river with the Irrawaddi, the river continued torise in a most rapid degree, Mr. Bayfield ascertaining by measurementthat it rose 16 inches an hour. We were consequently compelled to pushon, as we were informed that the next day the defile would be impassable. The Kioukdweng alluded to commences about two miles below Tsenbo, theriver becoming constricted from 1000 to 150 yards. The rush of water wasgreat, and was rendered fierce by rocks which exist in the midst of theriver. Still further within the defile the difficulties were increased;at one place the whole of the enormous body of water rushes through apassage, and it is the only one, certainly not exceeding 50 yards inwidth. The passage of this was really fearful, for on clearing it wewere encountered by strong eddies, backwaters and whirlpools, whichrendered the boat nearly unmanageable. These scenes continued, variedevery now and then by an expanded and consequently more tranquil stream, until a gorge is passed, well known by the name of the "Elephant andCow, " two rocks which are fancifully supposed to resemble the above namedanimals; the defile then becomes much wider, and the waters flow in atranquil and rather sluggish manner. The depth of the river in thisdefile is, as may be supposed, immense; Mr. Bayfield ascertained duringhis passage up, at a season when the waters were low, that in many placesno bottom was to be found at a depth of 45 fathoms. The necessity ofthis enormous depth is at once evident, and is pointed out by theconfiguration of the banks, which are in many places sheer precipices. Two other defiles exist between Bamo and Ava, of these the middle orsecond is the shortest, in both the stream flows sluggishly, and there isno impediment whatever to navigation. In these the depth is great, butowing to their greater width, much less so than in the upper. 

The temperature of the waters of the Irrawaddi is as usually obtains, except during the rises of the river caused by the melting of snow, whenit is higher than usual. 

_Tributaries of the Irrawaddi between Mogoung river and__Ava_. 

The number of tributaries even to Rangoon is unprecedentedly small: thistends to increase the astonishment with which one regards thismagnificent river. 

The rivers that fall into the Irrawaddi within the above distance are, 1st. The Mogoung river. 

2nd. Tapien Khioung, above Bamo. 

3rd. Shewe Lee Khioung. 

These are about the same size, and only discharge a considerable quantityof water during the rainy season. The Shewe Lee at its mouth, is between5 and 600 yards wide, but only an inconsiderable portion of this isoccupied by water, and this to no depth. 

The great branch from which the Irrawaddi derives its vast supply ofwater still remains to be discovered, and will probably be found to bethe Shoomaee Kha. It is evident, at any rate, that the great body ofwater comes from the eastward, for between the Mogoung river andBorkhamtee, in which country Captain Wilcox visited the Irrawaddi, andwhere it was found to be of no great size, no considerable branch findsits way from the Westward: neither are the hills which intervene betweenthese points, of such height as to afford large supplies of water. 

On the whole it is, I think, probable, that the Irrawaddi is an outletfor some great river, which drains an extensive tract of country; for itappears to me that if all its waters are poured in by mountain streams, atract of country extensive beyond all analogy, will be required for thesupply of such a vast body of water. 

In addition to the above three rivers, few nullahs exist, but these arescarcely worthy of consideration. 

_Nature of the country_. --From the mouth of the Mogoung rivernearly to Tsenbo the country is flat, and the banks wooded or coveredwith grass to the brink. The range of hills which form the upperKioukdweng there commence, and continue for a distance of 16 or 20 miles, during the whole of which they form the banks of the river. These hillsare scantily covered with trees, most of which are in addition stunted. The vegetation within the maximum high water mark consists of a fewscraggy shrubs. The rocks composing these hills are principallyserpentine, which within the influence of the water is of a dark sombrebrown colour. Limestone occurs occasionally. 

From this Kioukdweng to the second, the entrance of which (coming fromabove) is at Tsenkan, the features of the country are of the ordinaryalluvial description, and the river is a good deal spread out andsubdivided by islands, covered with moderate sized grasses. On leavingthe second Kioukdweng the same scenery occurs, the banks are generallytolerably high, often gravelly or clayey. About Tsagaiya, a few milesbelow the mouth of the Shewe Lee, low hills approach the river, and theycontinue along one or both banks {139} at variable distance until onereaches Ava. These hills are all covered with a partial and stuntedvegetation, chiefly of thorny shrubs, and present uniformly a ruggedraviny and barren appearance. The scenery of the river is in many placeshighly picturesque, and in the upper Kioukdweng and portion of thesecond, where there is a remarkable cliff of about 3, 000 feet in height, bold and even grand. 

_Villages and Towns_. --These although numerous compared with thealmost deserted tracts hitherto passed, are by no means so much so as togive an idea of even a moderate population. From the mouth of theMogoung river to the Kioukdweng there are several villages, but all aresmall, mean, and insignificant. Strange to say, they are defenceless, although the neighbouring Kukkeens are dangerous and cruel neighbours. Nothing can be more calculated to shew the weakness of the Burmesegovernment than the fact, that the most mischievous and frequentaggressions of these hill tribes always go unpunished, although a shorttime after an attack the very band by whom it has been made will entereven large towns to make purchases, perhaps with money the produce oftheir robberies. 

The upper Kioukdweng has a very scanty population, consisting of adistinct race of people called Phoons: who are sub-divided into twotribes, the greater and lesser Phoons. About 12 villages occur in thisdefile, and Mr. Bayfield says that the population is almost entirelyconfined to the banks of the river: all these villages are small. 

Between the defile and Bamo a good number of villages occur, the largestof which does not contain more than 100 houses, the generality are smalland mean. Bamo, which is a place of celebrity, and is perhaps the thirdtown in Burmah, is situated on the left bank of the river, which is here, including the two islands which subdivide it into three channels, about amile and a quarter in width; the channel on which Bamo is situated is theprincipal one. The town occupies rather a high bank of yellow clay, along which it extends for rather more than a mile, its extreme breadthbeing perhaps 350 yards. It is surrounded by a timber stockade, theouter palisades being well pangoed; the defences had just undergonerepair owing to an expected attack from the Kukkeens. It contains withinthe stockade rather less than 600 houses, (the precise number wasascertained personally by Mr. Bayfield, ) and including the suburbs, whichconsist of two small villages at the northern end, one at the southern, and one occupied by Assamese at the eastern, it contains about 750houses. These are generally of the usual poor and mean description;indeed, not even excepting the Governor's house, there is not a goodBurman or Shan house in the place. One street which occupies a portionof the river bank, is inhabited by Chinese, and contains about 100houses; these are built of unburnt brick, and have a peculiar blueishappearance; none are of any size. The best building in Bamo is theChinese place of worship. Those occupied by the Burmese have the usualform. The country adjoining Bamo is flat, dry, and I should thinkunproductive; it is intersected by low swampy ravines, one or two ofwhich extend into the town. To the south there is an extensive marsh, partially used for rice-cultivation. 

The population of Bamo including the suburbs, may be estimated at about4500, of whom 4 or 500 are Chinese. The governor is a bigoted Burman, ofdisagreeable manners; he expends much money in the erection of Pagodas, while he leaves the streets, roads and bridges by which the ravines arepassed, in a ruinous and disgraceful state. 

The Bazaar of Bamo is generally well supplied: British piece goods andwoollen cloths are procurable, but at a high price: the show of Chinesemanufactures is much better, particularly on the arrival of a caravan;considerable quantities of Tea are likewise brought in the shape of flatcakes, of the size of a dessert plate, and about two inches thick. Thistea is of the black sort, and although very inferior to the Chinese caseteas, is a far better article than that of Pollong. In addition to this, warm jackets lined with fur, straw hats, silk robes, skull-caps, andsugar-candy are procurable; pork of course is plentiful, and isexcessively fat; grain, vegetables and fish are plentiful. On the wholeBamo is a busy and rather flourishing place: it derives its consequenceentirely from its being a great emporium of trade with the Chinese, whocome here annually in large numbers; for the accommodation of thesepeople and their caravans, two or three squares, fenced in with bamboos, are allotted. 

The principal article of Burmese export is cotton, and this I believe isproduced for the most part lower down the Irrawaddi. 

The climate of Bamo is in April dry and sultry: the range of thethermometer being from 66 degrees or 68 degrees to 94 degrees or 96degrees. North-westers are of common occurrence in this month, and arefrequently of extreme severity. I saw very little cultivation aboutBamo, some of the ravines alluded to had lately been under rice-culture;the chief part of the cultivation for vegetables, etc. Is confined to thesandy islands, which occur here and there. 

Of the numerous villages passed between Bamo and Ava not one deservesespecial notice, nor is there one, with the exception of Umeerapoora, theformer capital, which contains 500 houses. Shewegyoo, which formerlyoccupied a considerable extent of the left bank near the south opening ofthe second Kioukdweng had been burnt by the orders of the MoneinMyoowoon, on account of their having supplied troops to the emissaries ofthe Tharawaddi. Kioukgyee, the residence of the above governor, had ashort time before our arrival been invested by a force in the interest ofthe Tharawaddi, but had been repulsed. The governor was to proceed withthe whole population, amounting to several hundred souls, to Bamo, tojoin his forces with those of the Bamo governor. This part of thecountry was most unsettled and almost deserted. On reaching Katha thestate of the country was more tranquil, all the people below this pointhaving espoused the cause of the Tharawaddi. Katha contains 200 houses, and has a rather respectable bazaar; it is well situated, and has themost eligible site in my opinion, of all the towns hitherto seen. Themost remarkable object is a noble Kioung, or Mosque, built by the head-man of the place; this is one of the finest now existing in Burma. 

The only other large place is Sheenmaga, about a day's journey from Ava. This is said to contain 1, 000 houses. An extensive fire had latelyoccurred here. I counted 200 houses, and judging from the extent of theruins, I should say it might probably have numbered between 4 and 500. There are several villages contiguous to this, and I think that thedistrict immediately contiguous is more populous than any part hithertoseen. 

During the above portion of the journey our halts were as follows:--

 1. Tapaw. 2. Mogoung river. 3. Mogoung river. 4. Lemar, in the upper Kioukdweng. 5. Bamo. 6. Tsenkan. 7. Kioukgyee. 8. Katha. 9. Tsagaya. 10. Tagoung. 11. Male, at the entrance of the lower Kioukdweng. 12. Kabuet, in the lower Kioukdweng. 13. Male. 14. Menghoon. 15. Ava. 

This distance down the Irrawaddi may, in a fast boat, be performed in tendays, but owing to the disturbed state of the country we were compelledto avail ourselves of the first opportunity that offered to enable us toreach Ava; in addition the proper number of boatmen was not procurable, everybody being afraid of approaching the capital even a few miles. 

The chief product I saw was Teak, of this there were large rafts atTsenkan and elsewhere. This tree seems to abound in the hills formingthe NE. Boundaries of Burmah. I did not, however, see any of large size. 

Tea is found on hills to the east of Bamo, and at a distance of one day'sjourney from that place. Through the kindness of Mr. Bayfield, I wasenabled to procure specimens; the leaves were decidedly less coarse, aswell as smaller, than those of the Assamese plants, and they occurredboth serrated and entire. No use is made of the wild plants in thisdirection, and the Chinese at Bamo, asserted that it was good fornothing. It must be remembered, however, that none of them had seen theplant cultivated in China. Indeed the only real Chinaman we saw, was oneat Kioukgyee, serving the Myoowoon as a carpenter: this man had been toEngland twice, and talked a little English. 

Cotton is, I was informed, extensively cultivated. 

But the most valuable product is the Ruby, which is procured from hillsto the eastward of Tsenbo, and which are, I believe, visible from theopposite town, Mala. From the same place and to the SE. , low hills arevisible, from which all the marble in extensive use for the carving ofimages, is obtained; this marble has been pronounced by competentauthority to be of first-rate quality. 

_Population_. --This must be considered as scanty. From a list of townsand villages, observed by Captain Hannay, between Ava and Mogounginclusive, I estimated the population at 100, 000 souls, but from this one-third at least must be deducted. In this estimate of the number ofhouses, Captain Hannay was probably guided, either by the Burmese census, or by the statement of the writer who accompanied him. From the numbersgiven by this officer, in almost every case one-third, and occasionallyone-half, or even more, must be deducted: as instances, I may cite hisstatement of the number of houses in Bamo and Katha. 

In almost every case Mr. Bayfield counted all the houses, and in alldoubtful cases, I counted them also at his request, so that I am enabledto speak with great confidence on this point. 

As a collateral proof of the scanty population of this extensive portionof the Burmese territory, I may allude to the fact that Bamo, the thirdplace in Burmah, and the emporium of great part of an extensive Chinesetrade, contains only even at the rate of seven souls to each house, whichis two too many, 4, 250 inhabitants. The capital may be adduced as anadditional instance; for including the extensive suburbs, no oneestimated it as having a larger population than 100, 000. It must beremembered also, that there is no doubt, but that the banks of theIrrawaddi are more populous than any other portion of the kingdom. 

Throughout the above rather long journey, we were treated, with oneexception, tolerably well; indeed our delays arose from theunwillingness, real or pretended, of the authorities to forward us onwhile the country remained so unsettled. The headman of Kamein on ourfirst arrival was extremely civil, but on our return after he hadreceived news of the revolt of the Tharawaddi, he behaved with greatinsolence, and actually drew his dha on Mr. Bayfield. It must beremembered however that he had been brought to task by the Mogoungauthorities for having, as it was said, accepted of a douceur forallowing us to proceed to the serpentine mines. 

The general idea entertained by the people through whose countries wepassed, was, that we had been sent to report upon the country prior toits being taken under British protection. Of the existence of this idea, Mr. Bayfield met with some striking proofs. 

On reaching Katha our troubles ceased, and these, excepting at Kamein andMogoung, only arose from the evident wish of the natives to keep at adistance from us, and not to interfere in one way or the other. AtMogoung I consider it probable that we should have been detained had itnot been for the firm conduct of Mr. Bayfield, and his great knowledge ofthe Burmese character. At this place the authority of the Myoowoon, whowas absent in Hookhoong, was totally disregarded, and his brother theMyoowoah, was in confinement, the Shan Matgyee having espoused the causeof the prince Tharawaddi. 

_Conclusion_. --For the brief and rapid manner in which I have run throughthis last section of my report, as well as for having forsaken thearrangement adopted in the previous sections, I trust I shall be excused. In the first place, this portion of the route had been previouslytravelled over by Captain Hannay and by Mr. Bayfield, by whom muchadditional information will be laid before Government; and in the secondplace, I would advert to the hurried nature of this part of our journey, and to the disturbed state of the country. For similar reasons I haveonly drawn up this account to the period of my reaching Ava. It will beat once seen that the information might have been much more extensive, especially as regards the revenues of the districts, but I abstained frominterfering with subjects which were in every respect within the provinceof Mr. Bayfield; and the minute and accurate manner in which this officerperformed the duties consigned to him, reconciled me at once to thesecondary nature of the objects which were left for my examination. 

I subjoin a tabular view of the marches, this will not agree entirelywith those given in the body of the report, as one or two of those wereunavoidably short. I give the table to shew the shortest period in whichthe journey could be accomplished by an European without constantlyoverfatiguing himself. If the total distance be compared with anestimate made from charts, all of which however are imperfect so far asthe country between Meinkhoong and Beesa is concerned, the tortuousnessof our course will be at once evident. 

Marches. Miles

 1 From Sadya to Noa Dehing Mookh, 6 2 To Rangagurreh, 12 3 To Moodoa Mookh, 12 4 To Kidding, 9 5 To Namroop Puthar, 12 6 To Beesa Lacoom, 12 7 To Halting place in the hills, 12 8 To Darap Panee, 12 9 To the Namtuseek, 1210 Namtuseek, 1011 To the Boundary Nullah, 1212 To the Namaroan, 1513 Namaroan, 1314 To Khathung Khioung, 1515 To Khussee Khioung, 1316 To Kuttack Bhoom, 1317 To Namtuseek, 1018 To Nhempean, 1819 To Kulleyang, 1720 To Tsilone, 1021 To Meinkhoong, 1722 To Wullabhoom, 1323 To Halting place towards the Mogoung river, 2224 Mogoung river, 1525 Ditto ditto, 1326 Ditto ditto, 1427 Kamein, {145} 1428 Mogoung, 25 ---Total number of miles, 378

The remaining distance performed in boats may be thus estimated down the Mogoung river to the Irrawaddi, 45

From the confluence of the Mogoung river down the Irrawaddi to Ava, 240 --- 663 ---

Allowing twelve days for the performance of this last portion, whichhowever is too short a time, the entire distance may be performed inforty days. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

_Notes made on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to__Rangoon_. 

_28th May_. --I left Ava and halted about two miles above Menboo. 

_29th May_. --Continuing the journey, the country appears flat withoccasionally low hills as about Kioukloloing, no large villages occur;the river is sub-divided by churs; no large grasses to be seen, and thevegetation is arid. Bombax is the chief tree: Mudar and Zizyphus occur:Guilandina, Crotolaria a large Acanthacea, and a Jasminioides shrub arethe most common plants: Borassus is abundant: Fici occur about villages. The banks are generally sandy, not high. 

Yandebo. This is a wretched village; barren plains bounded to the eastby barren rather elevated hills; base jungly. Observed the tree underwhich the treaty was signed with the Burmese at the close of the latewar. It is an ordinary mango, near a pagoda on a plain with two largefig trees. I counted to-day 28 boats sailing up between this and ourhalting place of yesterday, mostly large praows. The banks present fewtrees, are flat, barren, and from being occasionally overflowed, adaptedto paddy. 

Halted at Meengian, which is a middling sized village on the left bank, about a mile below Tarof myoo. 

_30th May_. --I made an excursion into the country which is dry, barren, and sandy, with a descent towards the banks of the river. Zizyphus, Acacia, Euphorbia 20 feet high, Calotropis, Capparis 2, etc. , occur allthe same as before, only one Ehretiacea appears to be new. Hares arevery common. Likewise red and painted Partridges, and Quail. Carthamusand Tobacco are cultivated, specially the latter at Meengian. The mostcommon tree here, is Urticea procera? which has always a peculiarappearance. The country towards Pukoko becomes prettier, the left bankwooded, and the ground sloped very gradually up to Kionksouk, which isbarren, and 2, 000 feet high at least, with the slopes covered withjungle. 

_31st May_. --Passed Pagam, a straggling town of some size, famous forits numerous old pagodas of all sorts. The surface of the country israviny, and the vegetation continues precisely the same. Below Pagam, the range of low hills becomes very barren: altogether the country isvery uninteresting. 

The low range of hills on the right bank is nearly destitute ofvegetation. The hills present a curious appearance of ridges, sometimeslooking like walls. The country continues the same. 

Halted opposite Yowa. 

_June 1st_. --A low range of hillocks here occurs on the left bank, andas in other places, consisting of sandstone with stunted and scantyvegetation. 

Tselow is a large place on the left bank, the river is here much spreadout, with large sand banks. The hills on the right bank present the samefeatures; passed Pukangnai, a large village on the left bank. PassedPukkoko, Pagam, Tselow, etc. , the hills about this last place abound withPrionites. Strong wind prevails. 

_June 2nd_. --Yeanangeown 10 A. M. The country continues exactly similarto that already observed--hillocks intersected by ravines, loosesandstone, very barren in appearance. Vegetation is the same, but morestunted; fossil wood is common, especially in the bottom of ravines. {147} Of fossils very few were seen, but more are to be procured bydigging. The most common trees are Zizyphus, Acacia, and a Capparis: themost common grass Aristida. Arrived at Yeanangeown, a busy place judgingfrom the number of boats. 

Wind less strong. At 2 P. M. Stopped at Wengma-thoat, where Zizyphus isextremely common. Euphorbia seems rather disappearing. 

The plants met with at the halting place six miles above Yeanang, wereEuphorbia, Olax, Zizyphus, Mimosa, Carissa, Ximenia, Prionites, Calotropis, Gymnema, Capparis pandurata et altera species arborea, Murraya rare, Gossypium frutex 6-8-petal, Xanthophyllum blue, petiolisalatis of Tagoung, Sidae sp. On the right bank flat churs continuecovered with a small Saccharum. Vegetation more abundant and greenerthan before. Ficus again occurs and Stravadium occasionally. 

Passed 5 P. M. Memboo at a large village on right bank, containing perhaps200 houses. The river below this runs between two ranges of low hills, similar in every respect to those already passed. A Kukkeen woman wasobserved, who appeared to have a blue face, looking perfectly frightful. 

_June 3rd_. --Maguay. Reached this place at 8 P. M. It is on the leftbank. It is a place of some importance. Many boats lying in the stream. The country, is of the same dry, arid description: the banks of the riverare however lower than previously observed. 

Passed Esthaiya, a small village on the right bank, at 6 A. M. Adelianereifolia continues common in some places. 

Dhebalar, Meemgoon, two villages nearly opposite, neither of thesevillages large. Ficus and Bombax are common; no Euphorbia was observed. 

We are now evidently getting within the influence of the Monsoon, as thevegetation is more green. 

Passed Mellun, a village on the right bank. The hills on either side ofthe river are higher and better wooded than before observed, and theriver itself is not more than 350 yards broad. 

Observed gold washers below Meegyoung-yea, where they find gold, silver, and rubies by washing the sands. Here Bombax is very common on the rightbank. 

Passed Thembounwa, a village on the left bank. The country presents thesame ridges of singular hills formed of veins of slaty, tabular, brownrock, this is very conspicuous at Thembounwa. The hills on the left bankabove Meeaday are very barren; the banks rocky. 

Halted at Khayoo, just above Meeaday, at 7 P. M. 

_June 4th_. --Passed Teiyet myoo, a village on the right bank, whichseems to have some cotton trade; the houses along the bank are wretchedin appearance. Meeaday was passed during a squall, I was thus preventedfrom making any observation on it. Teiyet is the largest place I haveseen. The country we are now passing is very slightly undulated, soillight and sandy. Fine tamarind trees occur, also Terminalia. Inaddition to the usual plants a Lagerstraemia occurs, which attains thesize of a middling tree, and a frutescent Hypericum, Aristolochia, andHedyotis occur. Strong south wind prevails so that we can make noprogress whatever, I therefore went into the jungle and found Stravadium, a fine Bignonia foliis pinnatis, floribus maximis, fere spitham. Infundibulif. Subbilabiat. Lacinus crispatis: one or two Acanthaceae, twoGramineae, two Vandelliae, Bonnaya, Herpestes, Monniera, Rumex, Dentella, three or four Cyperaceae, Ammannia, Crotalaria on sand banks, Triga inwoods and Bauhinia, Dioscoria, a pretty herbaceous perennial Ardisia, etc. We have not made two miles since breakfasting at Teiyet, about fourhours ago. Convolvulus pileatus and dwarf bamboo are common on the lowhills. The Lagerstraemia has petals none, or minute squamiform. 

Reached Caman Myoo, a village on the right bank, at 7 P. M. 

_June 5th_. --Many boats are here, owing to there being an excellentplace of anchorage in still water, protected by an Island, but there arenot many houses in the village. 

Below, the river again becomes confined between hills, but above this itexpands. These hills are rather bare: no Euphorbia exists, and the wholevegetation is changed. 

Now passing hills, chiefly covered with bamboos. Bignonia crispa occurs, and a Scilloid plant out of flower is common. Aroideum, similar to thatof Katha, is common, a new species is likewise found, but it is aRoxburghia, and rare. 

Stravadium has very minute stipules, the habit and gemmation is that ofTernstraemiaceae, and it perhaps connects this order with Myrtaceae;Punica from this is certainly distinct, owing praeter alia to its valvatecalyx. Soneratia belongs I suspect to Lythrarieae, connecting it withMyrtaceae. 

The Roxburghia above alluded to, is a distinct genus. 

Planta quam juniorem tantum vidi vex spithamaea. Radices plurimaefiliformes, cortice crassa, tenacissima obfibras foliiformas ad vaginamredacta, superiora petiolique purpureo-brunnei, vernatione involutiva, flores solitarii in axillis foliorum et vaginarum, albi carneo tincti. Pedicellis subtereti apice, articulatis, monoicis. 

Perianth sub-companulat, 4-sepalum, sepalis lanceolato-oblongis a medioreflexis, estivat imbricat. 

Stam. 4. Sepalis alterna, filam subanth. Magna, subsagittat, connectivomagno supra in apiculum longum product, et inter loculos in carinam(carneam) purpuream, loculi angustissimi, viridis, alabastrus lutescens. Pollen viridescens. Faemin flos, infimus, unum tantum vidi sepalalongiora herbacea, stam. 0. 

Ovarium compressum, fol. Carpell () {149}, stylus conicus, ovar viridis, stigma sub-simplex. 

Char. Gen. Flores monoici Per. 4, sepalum, stam. 4. 

Arrived at Prome on the left bank, the stockade seemed to be out ofrepair: the water front of the stockade is about 800 yards in length: itextends about 200 yards back from the river, and beyond the hill on whichare pagodas: opposite the pagodas it is of brick, and beyond this a longline of houses or huts extends; there is no appearance of improvementgoing on. The hills on the opposite side present the same features, trees just commencing to leaf; every thing indicates a temporarysterility caused by the long hot season. Above this place we passed avillage extending 500 yards along the river. Cocoa trees thrive wellhere, and are not uncommon. Borassus continues. 

Shwe Doung, 6 miles from Prome, is as large as Prome itself: the countrybeyond this expands; no hills were seen near this part of the river; someway below Palmyras are common; Bombax, Ficus, and Tamarind are the chieftrees. 

Passed Reedan, a straggling place on the left bank. A range of hillsoccur, extending close along the right bank, and which, as well as thedistant ones, are wooded to the summit, as the hills are on the MalayCoast. 

Passed Thengyee, a village on the right bank. Hills at this placeapproach close to the river for a short way, but soon cease. They arecovered with Teak, scarped, and many images are carved in the recesses ofthe rock, apparently sandstone. Thengyee, just below this, seems to be agreat place for boat-building. 

Halted at Talownmo at 7. 5 P. M. 

_June 6th_. --At this place there are no hills near the river, which issub-divided by islands. Painted partridge continues. Kioungee; palmyratrees continue in plenty. Talipat never seen dead, but with itsinflorescence. Passed Meavion and Runaown. Palmyras here occur: greatnumbers of boats passing up and down. Traffic considerable. 

Moneu, a village on the left bank, at which many boats were observed. 

The river banks throughout are today flat and alluvial, and those of theIslands are covered with moderate sized grasses; extreme banks jungly. Palmyras continue. 

Halted at Thendan, on left bank. 

_June 7th_. --The country here has the usual alluvial features; fewvillages are seen, but as the river is sub-divided, one must not judgefrom this and the consequent barren appearance, that the country is lesspopulated than above. 

Stravadium is common in the woods: on the banks, noticed Acrostichumdifforme; Epiphytical Orchideae are common. Urticea fructibus lateobcordatis. 

Passed Tharawa, a village on the left bank, and Theenmaga myoo on theright bank, which seems a large place; here Pandanus commences. Palmyraswere seen, together with a few Areca. At 4 P. M. I saw at Zulone myoo, for the first time during the descent, a Crocodile, which is anindication of our approach to the coast. A Bombax is now common on someof the islands, the banks are now generally grassy. 

This Bombax is apparently the same as that of Assam; the river hereresembles the B. Pootur about Chykwar. 

Halted at a small village about six miles above Donai-byoo near Dollong. 

_June 8th_. --Donai-byoo, 7 A. M. This is a large place, on the rightbank, having a good many boats. 

Niown Sheedouk on the left bank, three miles below Donai-byoo, islikewise a large place. 

Tides exist here, and their influence extends upwards as far as Zulone, that is to say, the stream is much diminished during the flood. EnteredRangoon river at 1 P. M. : it is here not more than 200 yards broad. Nioungdoa is a middling sized village, situated about a mile from themouth or entrance, at which were observed plenty of boats. The banks ofthe river are here grassy; tall Saccharum and Arundo occur, but not solarge as those of Assam. The river a small way below the mouth is notmore than 100 yards wide. Bombax and Ficus are the most common trees:Lagerstraemia grandiflora forms a little tree jungle: Butea likewiseoccurs. 

Passed Tsamaloukde, a small village on the right bank. 

_June 9th_. --Halted at 6 this morning at a small village on the leftbank. The features of the country now become paludosal. Acanthusilicifolius, Cynometra acacisides, Cyperaceae, Soneralia acida, Avicennia, Stravadium, Croton malvaefolium are very common, Creni sp. Caesalpinia, and a leguminous tree, fructibus 1-spermis, drupaceis, Webera, Premna, Cissi sp. Potius _Vitis_, Clerodendri sp. Heritierafomes, Flagellaria indica, Hibisci species populneae affinis, Arundo, Ambrosinia 2 species. 

Country open, low, and quite flat, admirable for rice cultivation. 

Crinoid giganteum, Excaecaria, Agallocha, no Rhizophores, Ipomaeafloribus maximis, hypocrateriform, albis, foliis cordatis. Soneratiaapetala less common, but becomes more so as we approach Rangoon, it is anelegant tree with pendulous branchlets. Heritiera is very common andconspicuous when in flower, it is then of a yellow brown tint;Acrostichum aureum, Calamus, and Lomaria scandens occur. 

CHAPTER IX. 

_Journal towards Assam and to Bootan--contains notes on__distribution of Plants_. 

Left Calcutta a second time on the 31st August 1837, arrived at Seramporeon the 1st September, and spent the day with the Voights. 

_September 3rd_. --Continue on the Hooghly: paddy cultivation prevailsand Crotalaria juncea; this last is sown broadcast in low places, but notquite so low as paddy. Bengallees are but slovenly husbandmen; grass, etc. Collected by them in small cocks, and covered with a small thatch, which answers its purpose as well as a narrow brimmed hat would answerthat of an umbrella. Broken earthenware not unfrequently visible in thebanks, in some places at the depth of 3-4 feet. Unsettled weather, withgusts of strong wind from the S. And SSE. Thermometer 78 degrees 82'. The usual Calcutta birds continue, jackdaw-like crow, Falcopondicherainus, two common mainas, Ardea indica, and the white one. 

Came on the Ganges about noon; on passing Chobda had the horror of seeingthe bodies of burning Hindoos, the friends who are present at thesefuneral rites turning them about with sticks, so as to give each side itsshare of fire. The women bathe in their ordinary dresses: these thoughample are of fine cotton fabric, so that when wet more of the shape isdisclosed than is deemed desirable in Europe, but exposure of person hasno repugnant effect on Asiatics. 

The Matabangah is a small, very tortuous, stream, not exceeding 70 yardsin breadth: the banks are low, either wooded to the edge or covered withgrass, such as Cynodon. Excellent pasturage prevails, as indicated bythe number of cows. 

_Monday 4th_. --Wind SE. There are not many villages in the vicinity ofthe river; passed yesterday Kranighat, where there is a toll, from whichofficers on duty are exempt; but as no precautions seem to be taken tokeep the river clear, no toll whatever should be taken: although thelatter is high, the receipts must be very small. Passed Arskally aboutnoon, the banks are composed occasionally of pure sand, and the countrybecomes more open, with very little jungle, much indigo cultivationoccurs. Thermometer 78 degrees 85'. 

_Tuesday_, _5th_. --Wind SW. The country continues the same as before. At2 P. M. , we reached Krishnapoor. 

_Wednesday_, _6th_. --8 A. M. We left the Matabangah river and entered aless tortuous nullah. The country continues the same. Much indigocultivation still occurs. We saw yesterday evening a large herd of cowsswim across the Matabangah; they were led by a bull, who kept turninground every now and then to see whether his convoy was near him. Today Isaw a rustic returning from his labours, with his plough thrown easilyacross his shoulders; to a strong Englishman the feat of walking homewith such a plough, cattle, and all would not be very difficult. Indigois cut about a foot from the ground, then tied in bundles. Water forsteeping it in is raised from the rivers by something like chair-buckets, only the buckets are represented by flat pieces of wood, the whole isturned on an axle by the tread of men; the water is carried upon aninclined narrow plane; the machine answers its purpose very well, and thenatives work it with great dexterity. At 5 P. M. , we came on a stream 100yards wide, down which we proceeded. 

_Thursday_, _7th_. --The country continues much the same. Of birds theblack and white peewit is not uncommon;--cormorants, etc. Also occur. P. M. Thermometer 90 degrees. 

_Friday_, _8th_. --The country is more low and more sub-divided by riversthan before. Abundance of indigo. Pumps also used, as before observed, for raising water. Passed Moodoo Kully at 5 P. M. , and left its river fora small nullah. Indigo abundant on all sides throughout the day'sjourney. 

_Saturday_, _9th_. --Continue in this nullah. Country wooded. Phaenixsylvestris very abundant: Areca Catechu also becoming abundant. A gooddeal of cultivation occurs, mottled chiefly with sugar-cane andvegetables. The habits of the black and white kingfisher, Alcedo rudis, are different from those of the other Indian species: it never perches, choosing rather the ground to rest upon: it builds in banks: takes itsprey by striking it from a height of 20 feet or thereabouts, previouslyfluttering or hovering over it. The size and figure of this bird whenresting on the ground, resembles the two common Indian Terns. 

Palms, contrary to what might be supposed from the nature of theseplants, can put forth additional buds;--this is exemplified in phaenixsylvestris, the stems of which are deeply and alternately notched by thenatives for procuring toddy. When this is carried to a great extent, thetree either dies or a new apex is formed laterally. The old notches, asmight be expected, at length, become much obliterated. It is from thestudy of such palms that much light will be thrown on the growth ofmonocotyledonous stems. The vegetation of jheels is now obviouslycommencing. Pistia stratioles, Nymphaea, Potamogeton, Potamochloa, Oplismenus stagninus, and Villarsia occur. Reached Furreedpore at 7 P. M. 

_Sunday_, _10th_. --Came on the Paddo, an immense stream 1. 5 miles wide, with a very strong current, about a mile to the East of Furreedpore. Lagerstraemia Regina here occurs. 

_Monday_, _11th_. --The country is become much lower since leavingFurreedpore, and is inundated during the height of the rains. Thepeculiar vegetation of jheels predominant; that of the jungle continuesmuch the same. Plhugoor continues plentiful. No palmyras. Mangoesplentiful, but small. Passed a deserted Roman Catholic Chapel, andPriest's house. White-winged long-nailed water-hens becoming plentiful. 

_Tuesday_, _12th_. --The country abounds more in jheels: in many placesnothing is visible but water, in which huge plains of floating grassesoccur. The villages are very numerous, and occupy in fact almost everyspot of ground not subject ordinarily to inundation. Damasonium Indicum, Nymphaea pubescens occur in profusion. The grass which exists in suchvast quantities is, I believe, Oplismenus stagninus. The water of thesejheels is clear, black when deep, which it often is to a great extent. 

_Wednesday_, _13th_. --Reached Dacca about 2 P. M. : it is a large andpopulous place. The numerous grass of the jheels is sown there: it isthe red bearded _dhan_ or paddy grass: of this vast quantities are cutfor fodder, for, the whole face of the country being overflowed, itfollows that the cattle are throughout the rains kept in stalls. 

_Thursday_, _14th_. --Left about noon, and proceeded down the Dacca riverabout 5 miles, then diverged into a narrow creek running nearly south. Along this were observed fine specimens of tamarind trees. Stravadium inabundance. Sonninia scandens, and Mango, both in abundance. Passed at 5P. M. Neerangunge, a large native town, and below it Luckepoor. A vastexpanse of water appeared near this, viz. , the Megna. A good deal ofnative shipping occurs, consisting of brigs: great quantities of ricebeing exported from both places. Pelicans I observed here to roost intrees. 

[View in the jheels: p154. Jpg]

Friday, 15th. --In the midst of jheels: the whole face of the country iscovered with water several feet deep. Vast quantities of Oplismenusstagninus still occur. 

_Saturday_, _16th_. --Still in jheels. The same features continue. Thecountry is still very populous, all the more elevated spots havingvillages. Oplismenus stagninus still prevails in vast quantities. 

_Sunday_, _17th_. --Jheels in every direction:--nothing indeed seen butwater, with occasional grassy or reedy, and elevated spots occupied byvillages:--here and there a round-headed tree springing apparently out ofthe water. Hills visible to the east. Cormorants, Ciconia nudiceps, paddy-birds, the common white ones with black feet, are abundant, andassociate in flocks: there is one very nearly allied to this, which issolitary, having black feet with yellow toes. The boats of this districtare very simple, something like a Bengal _dingy_ reversed, but they aresharp in the bows and ought to be fast; their only mode of progression isto be pushed along by means of poles. There appears to be a great numberof Mussulmans, who would here seem to form the majority of thepopulation. Strong winds from the south interrupt our progress. 

_Monday_, _18th_. --Delayed by bad weather. 

_Tuesday_, _19th_. --Continued to pass through same kind of country, butless jheelly. The Cook boat was left behind on the 17th in a squall, andhas not come up yet, so that I dine with the boatmen. 

The black and white long-toed water-hen continues plentiful: when alarmedby kites, etc. It pursues them uttering a low mournful scream, until ithas succeeded in getting its enemy off to some distance; it then returns, I suppose to its young; otherwise its cry is something like the mewing ofa cat, or rather a low hollow moan. The hills are plainly visible to-day, lying towards the north. 

The males of the white and black water-hen have tails something likethose of a pheasant. There are two other species: one that is found onthe Tenasserim coast; the other is much larger, --the size, of a largedomestic fowl: one of the sexes, has red wattles on its head. The whiteand black one is far the most common; it feeds apparently, in flocks: theMaulmain one is the least common. These with Ardea Indica, the white, black-toed, yellow-beaked Ardea, Ciconia nudiceps a small brown _chat_?, Pica vagabunda, are the birds of the jheels or rather the dry spots inthem. I saw yesterday a flock of the black Ibis, flying _in a__triangle_ (>) _without a base_, the party was headed by one of thewhite paddy-birds! Villages have become very numerous, and thepopulation abundant and flourishing. The cattle are, as I have said, stalled and fed with paddy grass, quantities of boats being employed forits conveyance. Oplismenus stagninus appears less common about here. 

_Thursday_, _21st_. --Still among jheels; our progress is necessarily veryslow; we are indeed scarcely moving, there being no tracking ground:jheels occur in every direction, although the hills are not 15 milesdistant. Pelicans with white and black marked wings occur, together withthe slate-colored eagle with white tail, barred at tip with black; it iscommon in the low wooded places surrounded by jheels. Black-bellied Ternoccurs, but not that of Assam. 

_Friday_, _22nd_. --Arundo and two species of Saccharum occur, among whichS. Spontaneum, is very common and of large size. We reached the Soormariver about 12 o'clock, 3 or 4 miles above Mr. Inglis's house. 

I arrived at Chattuc on the 21st, which place I left for Pundoa thefollowing day. There are no mountains of this name as would seem fromthe habitat of some plants given in Roxburgh's Flora Indica. Themountains therein called Pundoa are the Khasya or Cossiah range; Pundoa, is the name of a village called by the natives Puddoa. The jheels arefor a great part under cultivation. The paddy cultivation is of twokinds; it is either sown in the jheels just at the commencement of theinundation, or it is sown on higher portions, and then transplanted intothe jheels. Jarool, Lagerstraemia Regina is the chief timber, it comesfrom Kachar; it is a dear and not a durable wood. 

Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there isalso a Grimmia here on the river banks. 

Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, veryrarely. 

Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are notwooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined toravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with grass. Here and there, scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may beseen to fall. 

Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P. M. , and hereregulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with thelarge thermometer 210. 5 degrees, by means of the one in wooden case 210. 5degrees, temperature of the air 92. 5 degrees, red case thermometerindicated the boiling point at 206 degrees!! nor would the mercury risehigher. 

_Saturday_, _23rd_. --Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to whichpoint the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great partwith gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckianepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax, Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very largeRottboellia, Bauheniae 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiariamay all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is apure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng, between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon, Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varecae sp. Impatiens in abundance, oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; ratherhigher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; AEschynanthus fulgens, jackand sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tenderLycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences, probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks withGordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum, Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C. Bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as alsoAndropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, infact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick treejungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with grass, eitherSaccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur. Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changedespecially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills iscovered with grasses, interspersed with rocks; the clumps of woodedvegetation being small, irregular, and composed of barren looking stuntedtrees. 

Above this ridge the country puts on the appearance of a table land. AtMahadeb, Staurogyne, Ruellia Neesiana, and Cryptophragmium are common, alittle above these is a species of Zalacca; Impatiens bracteata is verycommon from near the foot to beyond Mahadeb; but it becomes small anddisappears before Moosmai is reached. Cymbidium bambusifolium commences600 feet above Mahadeb. Linum trigynum commences at Mahadeb; Scutellariaa little above, but I have found this at the foot. 

Dianella is found 1, 000 feet above Mahadeb, as also Camellia candata;Plantago, and Eriocaulon 2 sp. Appear about 500 feet above Mahadeb; andcontinue to Churra. Randia, the common one, is found up to 4, 000 feet. Cinchona gratissima appears at Moosmai. The first Viburnum, also occurshere. Impatiens graminifolia a little lower. Salomonia, which appearshalf way to Mahadeb, continues to Moosmai and Churra, but is stunted. 

Vaccinium, Ceratostemma, Crotalaria Hoveoides, Gnaphalia appear towardsMoosmai. Wendlandia at Moosmai. Ruellia persicaefolia straggles alittle lower than these. Smithia commences at Moosmai; Pandanus also;this is excessively common on hills to the left, towards the caves. Dipsacus commences above Moosmai. 

_Monday_, _25th_. --Churra is situated in a plain surrounded in everydirection by low rounded hills, except to the E. And SE. , on which sidethere is a deep ravine, the whole plateau rising considerably towards thenorth, in the direction of Churra itself. Ravines exist here and there;it is along these, and the water-courses, that the only woody vegetationis to be found. The rest of the surface is clothed with grasses, ofwhich a number of species exist, they are chiefly Andropogoneae. Two orthree Osbeckias exist; a Tradescantia (T. Septem clavata) covers certainpatches with its bright blue flowers. Three species of Impatiens, twowith bright pink flowers are common. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonum occuron the flat rocks, which frequently prevail; Arundinaria is seen everywhere as well as a Smithia? with lotus-like blossoms. With regard tobirds, the Motacilla or water-wagtails are seen at Churra and at Pundoa, are generally of yellow colour in place of white. 

The woody vegetation consists of Berberis, Viburnum, Bucklandia, Cleyerafloribus fragrantis, petalis sepalis oppositis, Myrsine and many others, too numerous indeed to mention. 

The woods, towards Churra, assume that rounded and very determinate form, which is seen so commonly in some parts of England, Bucks for instance. None of the trees arrive to any great size. The generality are low, rounded, and stunted. It is in these, that Quercus, Viburnum, andPandanus may be seen growing side by side. 

_October 4th_. --Took the height of the station, which I make to be3, 921 feet; temperature 74 degrees; water boiled at 205 degrees; in thesmall metal thermometer 198 degrees! centigrade 97 degrees; large metal205. 25 degrees; wooden scale 204 degrees. 

_October 5th_. --Left for Surureem. On the first height on which thevillage is situated, a Potentilla is to be found, and this becomes moreabundant as we continue to ascend. The next European form that appears, is Fragaria, the height of which may be estimated at 4, 200 feet, this toobecomes more common as we ascend; Caryota may be seen, or at least, apalm tree, in ravines as high as 4, 000 feet; Daucus appears at 4, 300 feetin grassy plains; Prunella at about the same, Gerardia at 4, 500 feet;Gaultheria and an Impatiens with very small yellow flowers at 4, 800 feet, as well as Othonna. 

With the exception of these, the vegetation is much the same as thatabout Churra: but the Balsams of that place disappear almost towardsSurureem, as well as the Tradescantia 7-clavata. Plants which are not inflower about Churra, are found towards Surureem in perfection. 

After the first considerable ascent is surmounted, and which is probably4, 750 feet, the country becomes more barren, the grass more scanty andless luxuriant. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonium disappear; Xyriscontinues in abundance, likewise Eriocaulons, especially the middling-sized one; Bucklandia becomes more common and more developed; afrutescent Salix commences at 4, 800 feet, as well as a Gramen Avenaceumvel Bromoideum. 

Surureem is a small village, 100 feet above the rude bungalow, providedfor the few travellers who pass this way; close to it is to be foundZanthoxylum and Hemiphragma, which last commences at Moosmai. The simpleleaved Rubus of Churra, petalis minutis carneis, has ceased; a trifoliateone foliis cordato-rotundatis, existing instead. Most of the grassescontinue, but all are comparatively of small stature. Two newAndropogonoids make their appearance: of Compositae, a Tussilaginoid anda stout Senecionidea, the former not uncommon about Churra, but out offlower. Salomonia ceased. 

The height of Surureem I calculate at 4, 978 feet; temperature 65 degreesFahr. ; of centigrade 19 degrees; water boiled at 95. 5 degrees ofcentigrade; 203 degrees Fahr. , wooden scale; 203. 5 degrees large metal;small ditto 195. 5 degrees! Temperature of the air at 6 P. M. , 63 degrees. 

_October 6th_. --Temperature 6 A. M. , 63. 5 degrees. Left for Moflong. There is a considerable rise at first, then the country is tolerablylevel until one reaches the Kala Panee, the descent to this is about 7 or800 feet, thence the rise is great, with a corresponding descent to theBoga Panee, which I estimate at 4, 457 feet, and which is certainly 1, 000feet below the highest ground passed on this side of the Kala Panee. After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady woodenbridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1, 200 feet, thence there is asmall descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5, 485 feet. Most of theplants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less commontowards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but theirplace is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwardsof four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes morecommon on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thencediminishing in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundanttowards a height of 5, 200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, andSpiraeas make their appearance at 5, 300 feet. On the Kala Panee, Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of theascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among grasses, with it_Sphacele_? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5, 400 feet, Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the KalaPanee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorbaappears at 5, 400 feet, but in small quantities, and at this heightAnisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5, 300 feet, continues atthe same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to theBoga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5, 000 feet withViola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the sameheight. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5, 500 feet, continuing even toMoflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendagesof the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts. Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to KalaPanee, apparently quite wild; altitude 5, 200 feet: it recommences atMoflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size ofa small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here andthere, and may be found even about Moflong. 

The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, althoughof small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee;so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side, about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeedare found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height ofthe bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72 degrees; water boiledat 204 degrees; which gives the height about 4, 400 feet. BetweenSurureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; grasses continue, asalso at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The principal new ones occur onthe descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied toA. Schaeranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. Arundinacea; a beautifulSaccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the KalaPanee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form. On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few smallones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the BogaPanee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parnassia; atrailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadeniapubescens, a Circaea, Campanulae 2, AEschynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?;this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphaliumaereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur;Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus, Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris(Aquilina. ) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5, 000 feet withPlantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The moststriking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5, 000 feet, occursstunted; this is common about Moflong. 

Agrimonia range from 3, 500 to 5, 500 feet, where they are very common, Hypericum three sorts occur, H. Myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re-occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is verycommon. H. Ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below5, 000 feet; H. Japonicum is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H. Fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5, 000 feet; Leucas galeabrunneo villosa on grassy hills is common towards Boga Panee, andcontinues as high as Moflong. 

Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge ofwoods towards the Kala Panee; altitude 5, 000 feet; it nearly commenceswith two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives atperfection on the Kala Panee. 

Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5, 000 feet, continueshere and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, butnot commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond theChurra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong. 

Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5, 000 feet; other forms ofEricineae appear in places about 5, 000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as faras Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation, continuing to Moflong. 

Three species of Spiraea are found between Surureem and Moflong, noneperhaps below 5, 000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height, continuing as far as Moflong. 

On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulatedand much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen, the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediatelyaround Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to beseen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs. Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spiraea _bella_? Eurya _camellifolia_, Betula_corylifolia_. 

To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, thenearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedlydirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. Thehouses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges ofColquhounia, Erythrina, Buddlaea. 

In waste places Colquhounia _micrantha_, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris, Davallia, etc. Are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. Thehills are covered with low grass, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla, Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis, Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very smallParnassia, and a still smaller Ischaemum. 

Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common inthickets, etc. 

The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and whichanswers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats andpigs abundant. 

On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiarvegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of theplants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state. 

Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent. 

CHAPTER X. 

_Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan_. 

The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudesof the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the precedingobservations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the lefthand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater heightof which is something better than 6, 000 feet. 

[Gradient Surureem to Moflong: g163. Jpg]

_October 8th_. --Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to theeastward; the road runs over the same _downey_ ground. The first plantthat appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned. A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilobum notuncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a woodin one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size. Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circaea andHerminium?

Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera, Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibusgratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found. Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothedwith grasses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys betweenthese, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, acurious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. AnotherHypericum is likewise found in lately cleared places. 

Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chieflyof a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe;together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme. 

To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation, the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and aHabenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, thelatter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and anUmbellifera with curious foliage. 

The height of this ridge is 5, 768 feet, the temperature being 74 degrees, and water boiling at 201. 75 degrees. 

Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65degrees; water boiled at 202. 25 degrees; this gives 5, 410 feet. 

There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the southof the Boga Panee, ) the generality of which are more elevated than thoseon the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, thenorth face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1, 000 feet aboveMoflong. 

8 P. M. Temperature 58. 5 degrees. 5 P. M. 65 degrees. 

_October 9th_. --Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A. M. , 58. 5 degrees. 

_October 10th_. --A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at53. 5 degrees. 7 A. M. Left for Myrung. The march to Syung isuninteresting, passing over precisely the same country as that aboutMoflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree withpink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. AboutSyung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this placethat the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from thisnorthward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculisvillosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation passedon the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a largevalley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and somerice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on thenorth side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent anotherspecies of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urenalobale was noticed as high as 5, 300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung, especially about Nungbree, Parnassia recurs, with another species ofEpilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecioneoe, etc. ; a new Impatiens occurstowards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same asthose about Moflong; but several new Compositae occur. 

The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting partsof the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plantsoccurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, andthere is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. Thismakes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an Elaeagnusoccurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hillthe altitude of which is 5, 000 feet. 

An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; anew Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by meon these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. Canescens. Thealtitude of Syung is 5, 594 feet. The temperature being 70 degrees, andwater boiling at 202 degrees. Myrung 6 P. M. Thermometer 65 degrees. 

_October 11th_. --Myrung 7 A. M. Temp. 63 degrees Fahr. ; noon 67 degrees;6 P. M. Temp. 65 degrees; 9 temp. P. M. 62. 5 degrees. Weather unsettled, showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and theHimalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A. M. When the atmosphereis clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation ofthe hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods arefine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree, likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myricaintegrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the trueappearance of an Elaeagnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the firstarborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptionsoccur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be aterrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood tothe east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has avery rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent aboundswith Orchideae, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge inquestion may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered withEpiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common, climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes whichare frequented by a few snipe, present grasses, the usual Cyperaceae, Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panicum stagninum? Eriocaulon spe. Fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides, Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophilaesp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similarsituations. _Goldfussia_ so common about Churra, recurs here, butrarely. 

The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green_Bulbul_ is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with itscoquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Bothspecies of Phaenicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Centuryas male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animalsare two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, butalthough it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed insecuring it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail, climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues. 

The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fineusually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the rangeof the thermometer from 53 degrees, at 6. 5 A. M. To 68 degrees in theafternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerfulone, for the aspect on every side except to the E. And NE. Is dreary, marshes and the usual bleak grassy hills being alone visible. Myfavourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the altitudeof which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs, is 5, 439, (or probably 5, 700, ) temperature of the air being **, and waterboiling at 202. 5 degrees. There is a beautiful and very extensive woodat Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at theskirts, principally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya, and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur. 

[THE OK-KLONG ROCK: p167. Jpg]

At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise thevegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a hugeSarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus corticesuberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especiallytowards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna andNeckerae. 

On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing aboutNW. From Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; theroad runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to whichvillage one passes; the village is of no great size, and as well asothers in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the ironbeing procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the soundof their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that ofa sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finallyceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists, having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast mass, forminga precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bareof vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered withtree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot somefine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet incircumference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks, Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia. 

The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepaticae, a Didymocarpus, Caelogyne and some other epiphylical orchideae, among others Bolbophyllumcylindraceum. 

All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepaticae, whichare gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed withgrasses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches ofgrass, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs--Viburnum, another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, Caelogyne in profusion, Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium alsoin abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle. 

The view to the westward in particular was pretty, embracing a fine well-wooded undulated valley, with several villages and a stream of some size. The plains of Assam and the huge Brahmapoutra were likewise seen, but notvery clearly. The distance from Myrung to the Kullung rock is certainlynot less than eight miles, the time it took was 4 hours. The altitude ofthe rock is 5, 392 feet, temperature 76 degrees, water boiling at 202. 5. Wild hog are found round its base. {168}

_October 14th_. --I left for Moleem, the march is long and fatiguing;the road leaves the Moflong road at about four miles from the village ofthat name, continuing over similar barren hills, clothed with scantygrass. On reaching Morung firs become common, but they are small. Theview of Moleem, from this direction is remarkably pretty; the countrybeing better wooded, especially with young firs, and the effect beingmuch increased by the quantities of large boulders that occur strewn inevery direction. The Boga Panee is here a contemptible stream, not kneedeep. Moleem is a place of some size on the left bank of the river, occupying the side of a hill of considerable height. Thermometer 7 P. M. 58 degrees. 

_October 15th_. --Temp. 7 A. M. 53 degrees, at 3 P. M. 70. 5 degrees, waterboiled at 204 degrees, altitude 4, 473 feet, or perhaps rather more. Walked towards Nogandree; between this and a stream resembling the BogaPanee there is a pretty valley, the eminences generally well-wooded withyoung firs. Pretty and eligible sheltered sites might here be chosen fora Sanatarium. The vegetation is the same as that of Moflong--Delphinium, Ranunculus, Anemone, Potentilla, Tricyrtis, Codonopsis, Lilium giganteum, Spiraeaceae, Viola, Pyrus, Galium, Carduus, Viburna. 

The woods are not very frequent, they consist, when not exclusively ofPines, chiefly of Oaks and Chesnuts. Underwood almost entirely ofAcanthaceae. Rhus Bucki-Amelam is common here, an Oxalis occurs in veryshady places with fleshy leaves, it is so large that it is scarcelyreferrible to O. Corniculata. Berberis asiatica is very common. 6 P. M. Thermometer 58 degrees, 9 P. M. 50. 5 degrees. 

_October 16th_. --7 A. M. 842. 5 degrees (sic). Ascended the Chillonghill, which is among the highest portion of this range, it is said thatfrom this both the plains of Bengal and of Assam may be seen, not becauseit overtops all the intermediate ground, but because that happens in someplaces to be rather low; the termination of the 1st elevation aboveChurra, is seen to be very abrupt, but nothing can be seen beyond theelevated plateau of this part towards the south. To the east and westthe view has the usual appearance--grassy valleys and hills--with a greatdisproportion of jungle. 

The summit is gained after an easy march of two hours; the ascent isgradual. The highest ridge is naked of trees, but to the north the slopeis in one portion covered with heavy tree-jungle, in which the underwoodis as thick as I have ever seen it: it consists of an Acanthaceous plant;the forest itself of oaks, chesnuts and Rhododendron arboreum, which lastis common on the highest margin. A few Pines occur, but scarcely abovethe middle of the hill. To the north very high ground is visible, aslikewise from Myrung, and between this and Chillong is an elevatedplateau which appears to me likewise very eligible for the sites ofEuropean residences. 

But many places about Moleem are so, especially towards Nonkreem; and itis much to be regretted that some situation in this part of the range hadnot been selected for the site of a sanatarium instead of Churra. TheRhododendra were covered with mosses and other epiphytes, among whichOtochilus occurred. Bambusae, 2 Fici sp. Andropogon, Gaylussacia, etc. Occur about the wood. The vegetation of the grassy hills was preciselythe same, Aroidea, Erianthus, Tofieldioidea, Parnassia nana _potius__collina_, Sphacelioidea, Osbeckia, Arbutoideae, etc. I got scarcely asingle new plant; the best was a fine large Neckera, sect. Dendroidea. The temperature being 70 degrees: water boiled at 201 degrees, making thealtitude 6, 167 feet. No view of any particular beauty was obtained, nordid any thing occur to repay me for the trouble and fatigue of thejourney. 

About Moleem an Osmundoid is common enough, but not in _flower_: thenorthern forms are Ranunculus, Anemone, Parnassia, Pyrus, Pinus, Viola, Galium, Campanula, Clematis, of which an additional species occurs, Bromoideae, etc. Etc. , as at Moflong. I took the height of this placeagain; the mean of the three thermometers gave 4, 502 feet, thetemperature being at 60 degrees: water boiling at 95 degrees, 203. 75degrees, 204 degrees. It must, however, be remembered that my residenceis not 100 feet above the bed of the Boga Panee, so that it would be easyto attain an elevation of 5, 000 feet in the village itself. 

_October 17th_. --I returned to Churra to send away my collections andto consult with Major Lister as to the routes proposed for me by Capt. Jenkins, viz. Through the Garrows, or through the Cacharees. Nothingparticular occurred en route. I met with Hydrangea exaltata along atorrent flowing into the main-feeder of the Boga Panee, and two otherAraliaceae. The highest ground crossed is towards the ravine of the BogaPanee, and from this a good view of Moflong is obtained, and also of theHimalayas in clear weather. Coelogyne Wallichiana was commencing toflower; this plant occurs in profusion in some rocky spots about Moflong. The only additional thing I remarked was, that Luculia scarcely reachesthe Kala Panee. 

On my return to Churra, a change was observed in the character of thevegetation, all the Tradescantias had ceased, as well as most of theImpatientes, and Eriocaulons. The grasses had become more withered, andthe general tint was brown. No kites (Falco milvus) are to be observedout of Churra. 

The plants which were particularly conspicuous about Churra, were pastflowering in the interior; thus Osbeckia Nepalensis? was not to be metwith in flower in the interior, while it is in profusion about thestation. The same may be said of other instances. 

After all Churra presents the richest flora of any other place in theKhasyah hills, because there is a greater extent of wood near it, than isfound in any other locality, much greater _altitudes_ and deeper descentsin its ravines, and it is as it were the transit point between a tropicalor sub-tropical, and a temperate vegetation. I have no doubt, thatwithin a circle of three miles of Churra, 3, 000 species might be found inone year. 

The principal plants pointing out the tropical nature of the vegetationare Pandanus, which is almost limited to the limestone formation, onwhich it is excessively abundant, Chamaerops Martiana? which from itsaffecting particularly the walls of the amphitheatres so conspicuousabout Moosmai, Mamloo and Surureem, and the depths of whose sides isprobably at Mamloo 1, 000 feet, might have been better named. I havenever seen it on any other places. The Alsophila Brunoniana is likewiseapparently confined to the limestone hills, while the tree fern, Polypodium, is found on sandstone, as well as Impatiens, Tradescantia, Commelineae, Eriocauloneae, Xyres, almost all the grasses, Melastomaceae, almost all the Leguminosae and the preponderance of tropical Rubiaceae, which are, however, few, Scitamineae, Epiphytical Orchideae, UrenaLabiata, etc. Etc. 

On the _23rd_ I went to Mamloo, which is about four miles to the west ofChurra. To this place the limestone ridge, extending from Churra, nearlyapproaches: its vegetation is not rich but always stunted: rockyamphitheatres are very remarkable at Mamloo, they are of excessive depth;their walls being generally perpendicular, often somewhat overhanging. The manner of their formation is now to be seen in the amphitheatreimmediately contiguous to the village, although it appears to be veryslow. It is thus, bodies of water falling from the edge of the tableland, seem to undermine the sandstone below, producing land slips, whichoccur in this manner year after year. Since 1835, the edge of theMoosmai fall has receded at least 10 feet, and ample evidence remains ofthe recession to take place next rains. This simple undermining willsuffice for the formation of ravines, which are formed by their sidesmerely slipping down without being carried away, this last only occurringin the immediate vicinity of the strength of the torrent. All thedifferent stages may be easily seen. The edge of the table land I taketo have been originally at Mahadeb. The time that has elapsed betweenthe falling of the first cataract over its edge, and the formation of theedge over which the waters at present fall, must be immense, since thatedge has now receded several miles. Allowing the annual recess to be 5feet, and the distance 5 miles; the time occupied would be 5, 700 years:that the time has been great, is proved by the sides of these placesbeing clothed with large tree-jungle to the base of the scarp. 

_October 25th_. --I went in search of the fossil marine beach, (foundduring our first visit in 1835, ) but passed it, and my journey ended atthe site of the Jasper beds: this occupies a ridge where roads strike offleading to the Orange villages, so called from the groves of orange treesby which they are surrounded, and from which they derive their name. Fromthis spot, 3 villages are seen occupying sheltered situations, none muchabove 2, 000 feet in elevation. Luckily I was accompanied, (althoughgoing down I was unconscious of it, ) by a boy who had been withMcClelland when he originally discovered the fossil remains, so Irecommenced the ascent, after digging in many places without any success. The site is scarcely 1, 000 feet below Mamloo, which is 3, 153 feet; it isbelow the ridge along which the road is visible from the village, and isabout 100 yards farther from it than the second square stone erection. One would imagine that one was passing through rocks presenting nothinginteresting: the rocks are in many places very hard, particularly whenthey have been long exposed to the atmosphere, in which case they areless red than when sheltered by vegetation, when they are soft and of areddish colour: the fossils are by no means frequent, the cylindric_tubes_ appear to occupy the outer or rather upper surface of thesandstone, in the interior of which Medusae or Cyrtomae are mostfrequent, accompanied by shells, some of large size, the largest bivalvesresembling _scolloped oysters_; the next in size looking like oblongcockles: for only in one position did I see a conglomeration of minuteshells; this occurred above the others and nearer the jungle. I broughtaway with me, two boxes full. Owing to my presuming that I should meetwith water near, I omitted the precaution of taking some with me, so Icould not ascertain exactly the height of the place. All the fossils areeasily friable. {172}

From the Jasper, which is scarce 1, 800 feet in elevation, the followingplants occurred nearly in succession--Holmskioldia, this is scarcelyfound above 2, 000 feet; Porana in abundance, gradually diminishing above;Callicarpa arborea abundant, continuing to about 2, 200; Triumfetta, Urenalobata, Arundo the same as above, Melica latifolia, Panicum plicatum, andone or two other species; a Polygonum, Andropogon, small Commeline, Leea, Erythrina are very close to the spot, and the only Churra plant, exceptthe Arundo and Wendlandia is a Labiata, Geniosporum? so is Compositaarborea; indeed the vegetation is almost decidedly tropical. Thefollowing plants are then seen--Tetranthera, Flemingia as at Mahadeb, Vitis, Drymaria, Panicum eleusinoides, Eurya, Panax foliis decompositisinermis, Pogonatherum crenitum, Wallichia, which occur before one hasgained an ascent of 2, 000 feet: Osbeckia nepalensis descends to this butin small quantities; then I remarked Bidens, AEtheilema, Caricineae, Rottlera, Didymocarpus, Begonia, Cheilanthes dealbata, Stemodiaruderalis? Scutellaria, Impatiens bracteata, Rungiae sp. Sida, Elephantopus sp. And Bambusa, Gordonii occurring there at an elevation ofabout 2, 100 feet. Then Centotheca lappacea, Deeringia, Panicum_centrum_, Gouania, Caryophyllus, which last occurs on all the chain ofHimalayas, and which I have seen as high as 6, 000 feet in the MishmeeMountains, latitude 28 degrees. Panax foliis palmatim partitis, Clerodendrum nutans, Ficus feruginea and F. Hispida, foliis cordatis, serrato-dentatis: then Saurauja micrantha; before 2, 300 feet werereached. There Oxyspora sp. Paniculis cernius ramis ascendentibus, frutex, Croton of old, Ruellia persicaefolia appeared, and about 2, 400feet, the 1st Quercus appeared. Here, as at Mahadeb, Ruellia Neesianabecame common, and Linum trigynum, Uncinia, etc. Grasses commence topreponderate at about 2, 800 feet, but not the grasses of Churra. Holcus, Airoides, etc. Not being found, but Panica varia, and Rottboellia whichceases above this. 

At the raised Marine Fossil Beach, a queer Cephalanthus? Legumenosaarbuscula fol. Pinnatis impari (Pongamiae) Legumenibus secus suturamquamque alatis, Mangifera indici, Anthistiria arundinacea are found, andan arbusculous Mimosa, but unarmed. Shortly above this, Holcus, Andropogons, etc. , begin to preponderate, and thence the vegetation isnearly that of Churra. The woods of Mamloo consist of Bucklandia, oaks, chesnuts, Panax, Hyalostemma, Eurya, and Oleineoe; Epiphytes are verycommon. The most remarkable tree is one foliis alternis bistipulat;corymbis denis, Calycibus hinc fissis, petalis 5-albis, Antherae sinuosaecolumna terminans, et ovarium et stigma occultantes? fructibus pendulisstipilatis ovato oblongis, carpellis 5-latere marginatus. 

This has some affinities apparently with Sterculiaceae; the flowers areperhaps polygamous. 

Here Cypripedium insigne, Venustum, and various other fine Orchideae maybe found. 

The only bird I saw was a Bucco, which in voice resembled the green oneof the plains. 

The elevation of Mamloo is 3, 153, the temperature being at 7 A. M. 63degrees. The large metal thermometer rose at the boiling point to 206. 25degrees: wooden one to 206. 5 degrees: centigrade 96. 7 degrees: smallmetal 200 degrees. 

One of the most curious places about Churra is situated over the ridge inwhich the coal is found; on surmounting this, which is steep and perhaps400 feet high, one soon commences to descend gradually until you come toa water-course; on proceeding along this a short way you come to aprecipice. The water falling over this, has cut a deep well in thelimestone: the road to the bottom is precipitous and dangerous. Onreaching the water-course again no signs of the well are observable, access to this is gained by subterranean passages, of which two, now dry, exist. The scene inside is very striking; you stand on the rugged bottomof the well which is 70 or 80 feet deep, the part above corresponding tothe fall, being of about the same depth; the water now escapes through achasm below the bed of the well, the other fissures or passages beingabove, and probably now rarely letting off the water. After a severefall of rain the scene must be grand. 

_November 4th_. --Nonkreem 6. 5 A. M. , thermometer 31 degrees: hoarfrost. Marched hither from Surureem. Vegetation the same until you reach theBoga Panee, when Delphinium, Anemone, and Ranunculus make theirappearance. On the high ridges before reaching Boga Panee, found anAstragalus; at Nonkreem, a Scrophularia. Nonkreem is a curious place, the village of no great size in a valley: the sides of the valley arecovered with boulders; those at the entrance from Churra of huge size, and thrown together with great confusion. Pines at this place occur ofsome size, but they are distinctly limited in this direction to thegranitic formation. The downs have now assumed a withered wintryappearance. Nonkreem is a great place for iron; this is found in coarsered sandstone, or it may be fine granite, forming precipices; this isscraped or pushed down by iron rods, it is then washed by a stream turnedoff on to it: the stream is dammed up, and the irony particles by theirweight fall to the bottom: they are very heavy, of a dull blackishappearance. All the streams are of a whitish colour, and the rocks arecovered with Caelogyne Wallichiana. 

The elevation of Nonkreem is 4, 578 feet, the temperature of the air being52 degrees. The large thermometer indicated boiling water 203 degrees:centigrade 96. 5 degrees: wooden 204 degrees: small 197 degrees. In theNonkreem jheel, Alisma, Villarsia! and Potamogeton occur. 

_November 5th_. --The march to Suneassa continues over high downs, thevegetation being precisely as before, viz. Cnicus, Carduus, PrunellaPedicularis, Gaultheria, Gnaphalia, Bromoid acroideum, TussilaginoidAndropogon, Sphacelia Daucas, Hypericum, Hedychium, Polygonum rheoides, Smithia but rare, Tradescantia clavigera, Parnassia collina, Pterisaquilina, Euphorbia, Dipsacus, Salix, Osbeckia capitata, AEthionnia, Eriocaulon, Knoxia cordata, and Campanula. In short, the higher ridgeshave the vegetation of those between the Kala and Boga Panee, the lesselevated, that of Surureem. Along the watercourses Pyrus, Betula, Corylifoliae, and Eurya. 

As one approaches Suneassa the ravines become wooded, and the aspect ofcountry more diversified. The woods consist of a Castanea, 2 oaks, Rhododendron arboreum and R. Punctatum, Panax, Eurya, Thebaudiaceaevariae, no less than 4 or 5 of these, one is a Gaylussacia; Saccharummegala makes its appearance at Suneassa. 

This is a small straggling village, on the brow of the ravine of the samename; it is like Moflong, each house being hidden by hedges composed asusual of Buddleia, Colquhounii, Solanum spirale? Erythrina, Ficus, andRhus. Sugarcane, but of poor quality, is here cultivated, as well ascapsicum, but this is also of inferior quality; the houses are worse thanusual. Near this place several Nunklow plants appear, as Plectranthuscaeruleus, Labiata foliis verticillatis of Suddya. Its elevation is4, 362 feet, the temperature being in the air, 59 degrees. Bigthermometer boiling point ditto 204 degrees: wooden ditto 204 degrees:small 198 degrees: centigrade ditto 96 degrees. Pines occur here andthere towards Suneassa, but of no size and no abundance. 

_November 6th_. --Left Suneassa and proceeded down the ravine which isprobably 1, 200 to 1, 500 feet deep. The scenery is very pretty, the sidesbeing much wooded; the woods open, consisting chiefly of pines, which areof moderate size, Gordonia, Castanea, and Quercus: Mimosea occurs, alsoSaurauja. The grasses are as before, except that the Anthisteria ofNunklow appears, with Volkameria, Verbena Primulacae, and Osbeckiacapitate, foliis lineari oblongis, floribus carneis. Towards the foot, the scenery still improves. 

The woods consist of pines and a Quercus foliis castaneae cupulisechinatis, Arbor mediocris; the slopes as well as the valley arecultivated chiefly for rice, this last often assuming the terracefashion. The river is of considerable width, 50 to 60 yards, but of nodepth: two here flow together, and at the end of the valley a stilllarger stream not fordable in the rains, at least where I crossed, meetsit. On the streams at the base of the Suneassa acclivity, Salix, Ligustrum, Ficus frutex humelis, and a fine Indigofera occur. Movingthence along the valley the vegetation becomes tropical, although pinesdescend nearly to its level. Pontederia the small one of Bengal, dittoSagittaria Vandelliae, Poae 3, Apluda, Cyperaceae, Saccharum megala, andspontaneum, Elytrophorus, Ammannia, Erianthus, Cnicus! Artemisia asbefore, Arundo exalum, Cirsium, Carduus! Scitamineae 2, Panicum curvatum, Setaria glauca, Swertia angustifolia! Volkameriae sp. , Ranunculushirsutoideus! Zizania ciliaris. 

Those marked with (!) have probably straggled down. The cultivation ischiefly of rice, Eleusine, Coix, and the edible seeded Labiata. Grassesabound; in addition to those above several new ones occur, Rottboelliaexallata, Anthisteria of Nunklow, Arundinaceae, Andropogones several, Saccharum fusco-rubum, 25 species might certainly be collected. 

Fine pines occur on the other ascent from its base to apex. Here alsooccurs Phoenix pumile, which as well as the Rottboellia, which I think Ihave seen in the Mogoung valley (during the journey to Ava), and Buddleianeemda. 

The ascent gained, the country appears level, covered with the usualgrasses. The ravines are well wooded, but few pines occur, although theymay be seen here and there. The woods appear the same as those ofChurra. Pandanus sp. Altera? occurs. In one ravine gathered a newThebaudiaceae allied to T. Variegata, differing in its short greenishflowers and its smoothness. 

[Gradient Nonkreem to Amwee: g176. Jpg]

Amwee is situated on an undulated plain or table land; the undulationsare gentle, separated by marshy tracts: no steep ravines occur, the faceof the undulations is covered with grasses, among which are seen most ofthe Churra plants, the sides are covered with fine woods with definededges, consisting chiefly of oaks, chesnuts and Bucklandia. The aspectof the country is pretty, resembling some woodland scenery in the southof England; close to Amwee is a fine stream 40 yards wide, this windsthrough the valley, and on its upper part fine cascades occur. No fishare to be found besides those of Churra. The river is crossed by a stonebridge consisting of pillars of single slabs of large size, one measuring20 feet in length by from 4 to 5 in breadth. The temperature varies from50 to 68 during the day in an open verandah. Fogs are not so common, noris the rain so heavy as at Churra. The space being much greater, and thecountry more level, it would be better as a sanatarium than Churra, besides which, its access is as easy, it being reached in one day fromJynteapore. There is, however, a Toorai about Jynteapore, which isunhealthy. Its altitude is 3, 500 feet, or nearly 500 below Churra. 

The vegetation is nearly the same as about Churra, some new Castaneae andan Elaeocarpus occur, and Pandanus of large size in the woods. Epiphytical Orchideae abound; Nepenthes occurs here. Altitude from threeobservations 3, 530 feet: 1st observation 3, 439: 2nd 3, 597: 3rd 3, 624. 

_November 10th_. --Joowye: this is north from Amwee, and about 8 milesdistant. Two valleys have to be descended, one rather steep. Thecountry alters immediately after the 1st ascent, the woods nearlydisappearing except in the more favoured spots. Pines soon commence. Inthe second valley, the stream of which is large, and of which prettyviews are to be obtained, the pines reach on the south side to the bankof the stream, on the north scarcely any are to be seen. In the woodsabout Amwee, Eugenia is very common: noticed on the route Lonicera. 

Joowye is the largest village I have seen, it is of great extent butstraggling; near its entrance is a breast-work now nearly complete. Thehouses are of a better description than those generally met with. Theyare surrounded by wood, especially fine bamboos, in habit not unlike B. Baccifera. They are also surrounded by excellent timber palings. Thepeople are different from Khasyas Proper--perhaps they are not so fine arace. Their features approach more to those of Bengallees, particularlythe women, who dress their hair like those of Assam, indeed the dressgenerally of both sexes assimilates to that of Assamese, although theirlanguage seems to be Bengallee. In the wood surrounding this placecurious features of vegetation occur, and beautiful lanes and pathways. One may see a beech now naked of leaves, standing out in graceful reliefclose to the elegant foliage of a bamboo. Bamboos surround all thehouses--sugarcane, kuchoos, mustard, hemp, Musa, Ricinus were observed. 

The plants are beech, which is common and of large size. Pyrus ofMoleem, Pinus rare, Marlea begonifolia! Betula corylifolia common. Verbena chamaedrys, Rubi 3 or 4, Tetrantherae? Rubia cordifolia, Morus, Cerasus, Panax 3 species, Gleicheniae 2, Eurya, Juncus, Ranunculus, Viola, Verbesina of Moflong, Sida, Clematis _pubescens_, Caricineae, Myrica, Gordonia, Polygonum 3, among them Rheoides Engeldhaardtii common, Viburna 2, Wendlandia, Osbeckia capitata and nepalensis. The grasseschiefly Andropogons; Mussaenda, Bucklandia, Saurauja, Hiraea, Dipsacusrare, Camellia oleifolia, and C. Axillaris, Begonia laciniata, Ficus, Vitis, Sonerila, Plectranthus azureus, Randia, Mephitidia, Psychotria, Galium, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Pyrus or crab, Fragaria, Potentilla, Urena lobata. The diversified nature of the vegetation, both tropicaland temperate, is at once evident. 

The altitude is 3, 553 feet--temperature of the air 62 degrees; largethermometer boiling point 205. 5 degrees: wooden ditto 206. 75: centigradeditto 96 degrees: small ditto 199. 5 degrees. 

The higher ground about the place is about 4, 000 feet: Joowye beingsituated in a hollow. Viola and Peristrophe occur. 

_November 11th_. --The march to Nurtung occupies about 6 hours. Thecountry is level, or merely undulated, with no considerable descent, thesteepest being that to the river on which Nurtung is situated. Thevegetation continues the same, the trees except in the ravines almostexclusively pines, those on the ravines consisting of oaks, Rhododendra, Betula corylifolia, Betula moroides, Solidago, Verbena, Primulaceae, Othonna, occur; Anthistiriae, _both_ those of Nunklow are common, Rottboellia Manisuris in low valleys: here and there Phoenix pumila iscommon. The country just before Nurtung is uninteresting, scarcely anything but grass being visible in some directions. Indeed it falls off onleaving Joowye. 

Rhinanthus, Corolla infundibulif. Subbilabiat. Lobis 2, superioribusminoribus, stam. Ascendent. Stigmati inclusi decurvo. 

_November 12th_. --Nurtung is a large place for these hills, perhapsnext in extent to Joowye, it occupies principally both sides of asufficiently sheltered hill. The lanes adjacent to the place are narrow, often very wet, and always very dirty. The gardens are enclosed withwooden palings and are screened still further by bamboos. The houses, atleast the better order, are still better than even those of Joowye. Theexterior is of the same construction as all Khasya houses, but the lawnsand the comparative cleanliness of the front makes them look much better. The market, which took place to-day, is outside the village and close toour bungalow: it is well attended, but the amount of persons could notexceed 100 to 200, and these form a considerable amount of all thepersons capable of bearing burdens from the neighbouring villages. Theluxuries exhibited are all Khasyan, consisting of stinking fish, someother things of dubious appearance and still more dubious odour, milletand the inferior grains, and the fashionable articles of Khasya clothingand the adjuncts to that abominable habit pawn eating. There was plentyof noise, but still order prevailed: no other rupees than the _rajah's_were taken, and even pice were refused. Iron implements of husbandry ofnative manufacture were vended, in short all the various luxuries ornecessaries of a Khasya are obtainable. 

This place bears evidence of having been ruled over by some chiefpretending to Hindooism. This is observable in the large fig trees insome of the buildings, in most of the houses in the presence of somebrahmins, in the tanks, and in a sacred lake. At any rate it is attendedwith bad effects, and to see a Khasya attempting the formalities of arigid Hindoo is ridiculously absurd. 

It must be a wealthy place, many of the natives are well off; and I saw a_lady_ of a decidedly superior nature to the Khasya women, clad in snowwhite, reclining in oriental fashion on a platform. The _vegetation_ ofthis place forms a curious melange around our huts: Rhus bucki ameli, twoArtimiseae, Anthistiria arundinacia, Pteris aquilina, Callicarpa_lilacina_, Eurya, Bombax, Osbeckia nepalensis and linearis, Marleabegonifolia, Pyrus, Pinus, Urticia fructibus aurantiaceus capitulatis, Polygonum rheoides, Rubi 3, Swertia angustifolia, Polygonum globuliferum, Valerianae, Cacalia, Randia, Gnaphalia nervosa, and G. Revoluta, Smilax, Plectranthus azureus, Trichosanthes, Leea, Tradescantia clavigera, Geniosporum, _Butea_, Hypericum, Knoxia cordata, Rice cultivation. 

Along the path to the village are to be found, Carduus, Myricacrotalaria, _Hacyoides_, Cariceneae, Panicum curvatum, Arundo, Menthaverticillata, Cyperaecae usual, Zizania ciliaris, Panax, Wendlandia_Salvinia_, Isachne bigeniculata, Betula corylifolia common, Pontedera, Tetranthera, Erythrina, Celtis, Salix, Buddleia, Gordonia, Calamusabundant, Juncus, Arum macrophyllum, Cordiaceae, Urena lobata, Cynoglossum canescens, Bambusa, Verbesinea, _Lavinia_, Magnolia ofMyrung, Camellia oleifolia, Gualtheria. 

About the village, Porana, Musa, Verbena, Xanthophyllum, Xyris, Urticaherophylla, Sambucus, etc. 

The cultivation consists of rice, millet, Soflong? pumpkins and tobacco;guavas and oranges, are also to be seen. 

Daphne cannabina occurs here, as well as Loxotis obliqua, the Cardaminum, Plantago, and Martynia. 

From a fresh observation and taking the mean, I find the elevation ofNurtung to be 3, 302 feet. 

On enquiry I find that Rulung is one march off, that the country issimilar, and that pines grow there to a large size. From this place toKoppilee river it is said to be nine marches. A fuqueer from Cutch saidseveral, six to ten--and as the distance is nearly fifty miles and theground difficult, he was probably right. 

You then come to the Meekir country. To get into Tooly Ram's countrywould require at least nine days, but with loaded people probably twelveor fifteen. The station between Rulung and the Koppilee is Hush Koorah. Thermometer varies here from 45 to 85 in the sun, in shade from 52 to 74. 

_November 13th_. --Left for the Borpanee. 

The country traversed is easy, consisting chiefly of undulations coveredwith grassy vegetation. There are no steep ascents nor descents; and theonly obstacle is the Borpanee. The march is of about six hours'duration. 

Butea suffruticosa is very common about Nurtung, but ceases soon afterleaving its environs. All the valleys near this place are cultivated:the ground being now inundated in proportion. Dipsacus valerianacontinued, and a short distance from Nurtung pines become very common. Thence the country became more undulated and scarcely a tree was metwith: Hedysarum gyrans commenced shortly after leaving Nurtung: a suresign of decreasing elevation. The country subsequently improved, beingmore diversified with wood: firs became abundant, Callicarpa arboreacommenced. About Nonkreen, a small village to the east, close to ourpath the trees became mostly different. Kydia appeared, a tree like themango, and some others unknown to me. Bauhinia, Randia, PhyllanthusEmbelica, and a stunted arboreous Symplocos, Anthistiria arundinaceacommon, with chesnuts (Castaneae). 

Close to this, Gordonia, pines of some size, Anthistiria arundinacea andCassioides. The grasses continued the same, but two new Andropogons anda small Rottboellia appear; Holcus, Airoides, etc. Of Churra have ceased:the other are Sacchara and various Andropogons. On approaching aconsiderable descent the woods became open, consisting at first entirelyof pines, Betula of Joowye, etc. Then of pines, Quercus castaneoideswhich attains a large size. It was here that the pines became large, onefelled measured sixty-nine feet to the first branch, most are straight, the greatest diameter not two feet. Gordonia occurred here of largesize, the woods are really delightful, reminding one much of England. Here Myrica occurs but rarely, Lematula, Flemingia, Elephantopus, Vanda, Quercus callicarpifolius commences, Biophytum appears a short distancehence. Also, Liriodendron, Dipterocarpus, Bambusa, Pinus but of smallersize, Engelhaardtia, Dioscorea, Castanea, Quercus callicarpa, which isvery common. 

Here Bombax appears somewhat lower, with it Castanea, Kydia, Gordonia. Nopines now occur except on the neighbouring heights. 

The descent to the Borpanee is not great, say 400 feet; on its banksThunbergia grandiflora commences, but the Castanea castaneoides of largesize, Camellia oleifolia, Daphne cannabina, Rhododendron punctatumvariety. Engenia Wallichii (which commences), Quercus castaneoides, etc. May be found along its banks. 

This is a large stream, not fordable at any time, nor passable in therains; both banks are high, rocks of course break the stream, which isgentle at the points crossed. Breadth is 50 to 60 yards, the elevationof its bed is 2, 508 feet, water boiling at 207. 5 degrees: temperature 74degrees. 

The ascent of the north bank is great, on surmounting it one returns tograssy undulations, the vegetation of which is the same as before, Rottboellia of Suniassa as well as Manisuroides here occur. The villageMadan is very small, the people, of course, as they have scarcely everseen a white face, very polite and obliging: it is situated on a hill, but is still below the north bank of the river. Its altitude is 2, 753feet--temperature of the air 67 degrees: boiling water 207 degrees. 

[Gradient Nurtung to Madan: g182. Jpg]

The birds, as well as those of the Nurtung river, are the water-ouzel, the greyish-blue water-chat, the red and black ditto with a white head-top, and the black bird, _durn-durns_ or bird producing that cryoccurs, but not in great numbers. Pea-fowl at Madan. Elephants areabundant, especially towards the descent to the Borpanee. _Fly wheel_(?) insect is here common at Kokreen, a small village close to Nonkreen. Equisetum occurs along the Boga Panee as well as a new species ofPodostemon, P. Fronde profunde lobato, lobis liniaribus simplicibus vellobatis saxis arcti adpressis, floribus marginalibus distiches. Polygalaoccurs at 3, 000 feet and continues higher. 

_November 14th_. --The march to Mengtung occupies about six hours, it isby no means difficult, and the only ascent of any length is that beforedescending on Nungtung. Throughout the 1st part, all the bottoms of thevalleys are cultivated, thence all is jungle, either of high grass or oftrees. 

Near Madan, Arundinaria bambusifolia may be found, although at anelevation of 2, 800 feet, Volkameria is common. The same grassescontinue. In the rice field Butomus lanceolatus, Herpestes, Jussaeia, Juncus, Eriocaulon, Zizana ciliaris. 

We then came after traversing such low swampy ground for sometime to awood composed of Quercus castaneoidea, of large size; its bark is thickand somewhat corky, its diameter three feet. Quercus callicarpifoliusappeared soon after, with Polygala linearis, Scitamineae are common inthe valley. In similar low places, Impatiens graminifolia of Churra wasseen, and Hedysarum gyrans. 

Oolooks {183} and parrots are both found: Cnicus floribus roseis, Gerardia, Apluda, Senecio pubescens, were found in similar spots. 

After traversing a low valley with gentle undulations presenting theusual grasses, we came to a wood presenting many tropical features. Oaksand chesnuts still continuing to be the usual trees. Much underwood, consisting of Acanthaceae, Laurineae, Anonaceae, Rubiaceae, among whichPoederia triphylla and Mephitidia were common. Centothca sp. , Sarcopyramis, Garcinia, Triumfetta were observed. 

Thence we came to pines. Then a low valley, the altitude of the streamof which was 1, 979 feet, the thermometer being in the air 82 degrees, boiling point 208. 5 degrees. Then a wood. 

In it Castanea ferruginea continued common, Quercus dalbergioides, Daphnecannabina, Acanthus leucostachyus (1st appearance), Oxyspora andPolypodium Wallichii were found; ascending a few feet, say 60, Randiamicrophyllum, Aneilema aspera, and pines appeared in the woods, withstraight trunks and high branches, occasioned by the abortion of thelower branches, sometimes dichotomously forked, bark grey, and scaley, branches horizontal, approximated; cones inclining towards the axis. Thedescent occasioned a loss of pines, oaks and chesnuts continuing, Orthopogon, Pederia triphyllum. 

This wood was of great extent, the path running along the precipitous orsteep edge of a very wet water-course. Castanea ferruginea very common, Cyrtandracea. 

Begonia malabarica, Achyranthes, Tradescantia flagellifera, Phlogacanthus, Acanthaceae, Sarcopyramis, Magnolia, Eupatorium arboreum, Laurineae, Gleichenia minor. 

Pinus subsequently appears but is rare, Eurya. 

Daphne involucrata, Gaultheria arborescens, Knoxia cordata, Polypodiumarborescens, Thibaudia, Viburni sp. , Vareca, Leucas galea brunacea. 

Then still gradually ascending, open woods occurred. 

Pines, Q. Castaneoides. 

Thence the ascent is still through open woods of pines. Castanea, Quercus castaneoides and callicarpifolia, Polygala here appears, Knoxialinearis, Flemingia, AEschynomene. 

On the top no Pines. Oaks, chesnuts, and Gordoniae appear. 

Thence a second but small ascent, pines re-appear with birch, Scutellaria, Erythrina, Melica latifolia, Epiphytes common, especially onGordoniae. The altitude of the summit before descending on Nungtung was3, 359 feet: thermometer 75 degrees, boiling point 206 degrees. 

The altitude of Nungtung is 2, 862 feet, Temp. 64 degrees. Big Therm. Inboiling water 206. 5 degrees, ditto wooden 207 degrees, small ditto 201degrees, centigrade 97. 75 degrees. 

[Gradient Madan to Nungtung: g185. Jpg]

Nungtung is a small village not containing more than 12 houses; these areon michaowns, {186} and are built entirely of bamboos. The doors ofcurious construction, consisting of bamboos strung longitudinally over atransverse one, so that they can be only opened by pushing on one side. The pigs have similar doors to their houses and appear well acquaintedwith the mode of ingress and egress. 

Tobacco flourishes here. Here also I saw Sesamum and Ricinus, sure signsof increasing temperature, Labiata edulis. The first part of the marchlay through an oak and chesnut wood; then through the valley which isunder rice cultivation; then through part of an oak and fir wood; I thenturned off to NNE. Traversing undulated hills entirely covered withgrass; here and there an oak and chesnut wood occurred; this continueduntil 1 P. M. , when the path joined the great road as it is called, butwhich is nearly as bad as the Nungtung one. The marching was verydisagreeable, owing to the path being choked up with grass, particularlyin the swampy valley just before Onkreem. In this valley wild elephantswere first seen. 

After leaving the halting or resting place under a large oak (Q. Castaneoides) at Onkreem, the path improved and is only rendered bad bythe swarms of elephants, by which animals we were disturbed twice; itcontinued until 6 P. M. , over undulated ground becoming lower and loweruntil we arrived at the large valley of Onswye, which is even now at thisadvanced period of the season, the middle of November, considerablyswampy. 

Oaks and chesnuts continued, but pines ceased about half way betweenOnkreem and Onswye. 

[Gradient Nungtung to Onkreem: g187. Jpg]

[Gradient Journey towards Assam and Bootan: g188. Jpg]

[Gradient From Onkreem to Onkreem: g189. Jpg]

[Gradient Journey towards Bootan: g190. Jpg]

[Gradient Descent into Assam: g191. Jpg]

Onswye is a small village, seated on a low hill, and entirely hidden bytrees: the access to it is pretty. Its elevation is 1, 632 feet, temperature 63 degrees. Water boils at 98. 75 of centigrade, small ther. 202. 5 degrees, big ditto 208. 75 degrees, wooden ditto 210 degrees: taking209 degrees as the mean. 

It is a Lalung village. These people have distinct habits and languagefrom their neighbours: their dress is like that of the Khasyahs. Theyapproach to Hindoos in not eating cows. They inhabit the lower northernranges of these hills, but do not extend further east, nor into theplains at the foot, and are far less civilized than the Khasyahs. 

They have religious houses or places of worship, deo-ghurs, in one ofwhich I slept, having it first cleansed, and the deity appeased by somemost villainous music, and a procession of men with knives. 

At this village Carica, Ficus elastica, Ficus cordifolius, Ricinus, Artocarpus intigrifol, Tamarind, Guava, Musa, Solanum Melongena, tobacco, etc. , are cultivated. 

Caryophyllea scandens, Desmochaeta, Plumbago, Plectranthus azureus, Phlebochiton, Cassia tora, Orthopogon, Adhatoda, Mangifera, Crotonmalvaefol, Hastingsia, Torenia asiatica, Caricinea, Leea, Prunus! Congea!Antidesma, Rottleria, Clerodendron nutans, Calamus, Xanthochymus. Mesuaferrea, Garcinia Cowa, Leea arbuscula, Dalhousia, Roxburghia, are foundon the ascent which is moderate and pretty. 

The heavy tree or bamboo jungle does not begin until you attain 12 or1, 500 feet, up to that, the ridges present the former grasses. Rottboellia, Andropogons, Erianthus, Saccharum, Anthistiria, and thetrees are scattered consisting of Arborescent Leguminosae, Sterculia, Cedrela, Semicarpus continues to the tree jungle, but rarely. 

The road to the village runs through heavy woods, the plants formingwhich I have already mentioned, it is in good order. The village is aLalung one. 

At Dullagong, which is situated in the plains of Assam, at the foot ofthe range the temperature being 66 degrees, 8. 5 A. M. , water boiled at211. 1 degrees in the large thermometer. 100 centigrade, and above theboiling point in the wooden. 205. 5 degrees in the small metalthermometer. 

Between this and Goba, the path is generally through grass or treejungle. I noticed Exacum, Careya, Butea arborea, Ficus, Cinchona, Kydia, Saccharum Megala fuscum masus, Spathodea, Alstonia, Bombax, Semicarpus!AEgle Marmelos, Emblica, Panax, Elephantopus, and Lagerstraemia Reginaesucceeds about Goba: and between this and Dhumria, the country being lowand highly cultivated, presents generally the appearance of one sheet ofrice. In this march I observed one or two instances of the absoluteenclosure of Dicotyledonous trunks by Fici. This enclosure arisesentirely from the excessive tendency to cohesion between the roots andradicles of some of the species of this genus. With these, an expertgardener might produce any form he likes; the tendency exists in all tothrowing out additional roots; in few only to excess. In the generalityit is limited to the trunk and often to its base. Nobody can understandthis genus who cannot study it from living specimens. 

Cardiopterus is very common along the foot of these hills: it aboundswith milky juice, and in habit and some other points approaches nearer toChenopodiaceae than Sapindaceae. 

_December 7th_. --Returned from Jeypore, whither I had been to report onthe Caoutchouc trees. {193}

These trees appear to be limited to the belt of jungle or toorai whichcommences towards the foot of the Aka and Duphla hills, and which in thepart in which I examined them is about 8 miles wide. They are said to befound likewise among the neighbouring villages, but I saw no instance ofthis. They occur solitarily, or at most in groups of two or three. Theyappear to be more frequent towards the immediate base of the hills, andto prefer the drier parts of those humid and dense forests called toorai. They are frequently of vast size, and by this as well as their densehead, may be at once recognised even at a distance of a few miles. Someidea of their size may be formed from the following measurements of alarge one:

Circumference of main trunk, 74 feetDitto, including the supports, 120 "Ditto, of space covered by crown branches, 620 "Height, ditto ditto, 80 to 100 "

The roots spread out in every direction on reaching the ground; thelarger running along the surface, their upper portion being uncovered:occasionally they assume the form of buttresses, but never to such amarked degree as occurs in some other trees, such as the Simool, Herietiera, etc. The supports are only thrown out towards the base ofthe principal branches, not as in the banian at indefinite distances. Thetrunk is a compound one, formed entirely by the mutual cohesion of roots;not as in almost all other trees by the growth of parts in an ascendingdirection. Its aspect is picturesque and varied, occasionally putting onthe appearance of sculpture. It is, I think, doubtful whether this aswell as some other species of the genus are not to be considered asgenuine parasites, at any rate they generally cause the destruction ofthe tree on which they originally grew. If this be the case theparasitism is the reverse of that which occurs in Cuscuta, in which theplantule draws its first nourishment from the earth, relinquishing thiswhen sufficiently developed to enable it to draw its supply from otherplants. I may here observe, that parasites are common on the peepul, contrary to the statement of M. DeCandolle. 

The destruction of the foster-mother takes place by the mutualinterlacement of the roots, which descending irregularly, form at first astrong net-work, subsequently becoming a cylindric binding, in thestrongest possible way to the trunk, and preventing all lateraldistinction. The hollow occupied by the trunk when dead may becomefilled up, when this has passed away, by other roots. The adhesion ofthe roots commences by abrasion of the bark, the union subsequentlybecomes of the most intimate kind. The supports are perfectlycylindrical; they become conical only towards the earth, on approachingwhich they divide into roots: they are strictly descending growths, andas such, under ordinary circumstances, they never produce leaves, etc. Roots likewise issue from every section of the bark of sufficient depthto reach the outer layer of wood, with the outer fibres of which they areobviously continuous. To such an extent is this carried, that transversesections of young supports assume the appearance of coarse paint-brushesor tails. The lenticells, which are very numerous, have nothing whateverto do with their production; if the bark remains entire, no roots arethrown out except by division of the apex. The branches ascendobliquely, the outermost running nearly horizontally. 

The juice is obtained from the larger; that from young parts is lessthick: an exposed semi-denuded root, is selected for transverse incisionsthrough the bark, from which alone the juice flows, a small hole is madein the ground immediately beneath the incised parts into which a leaf, generally of Phrynium capitatum is placed: it is collected in this simplemanner in a very clean state, far more so than that which can becollected from the tree in any other situation. On issuing, it is of avery rich pure white; if good, of the consistence of cream: itsexcellence is known by the degree of consistence, and by the quantity ofcaoutchouc it contains. This is ascertained by rubbing a few drops up inthe palm of the hand, which causes the watery juice to separate (probablyby evaporation) from the caoutchouc which remains in the form of small, oblong, or round portions; and by kneading this in the hand, and strikingit sharply once or twice with the fist it acquires elasticity, so that anadditional test of excellence is at once pointed out. Many incisions aremade in one tree, the juice flows rapidly at first, at the rate of sixtydrops a minute from an ordinary incision, but this soon becomes so muchdiminished that it dwindles to eight. The bleeding is continued for twoor three days, when it ceases spontaneously by the formation of a layerof caoutchouc over the wound; and it is to the commencement of this thatthe rapid diminution in the number of drops is perhaps to be attributed. The quantity obtained from one tree has not exactly been ascertained; bysome it is stated to be as much as four or five maunds, while others saythat a moderate tree will only yield one gurrah full, or about ten seers. From the slowness with which it flows, I should consider half a maund tobe a fair average for each bleeding. The juice is, however, said to flowfaster at night, but this demands verification. 

The operation is repeated at the end of eighteen or twenty days. Inseven miles of jungle we observed eighty trees, by far the greaterportion of which were of large size. Lieutenant Vetch has made acalculation, (on the assumption that they are equally plentifulthroughout Chardowar, ) that the number in this district alone is ---trees. 

I calculate the number to be about 20, 000. There is no reason forsupposing that they are not equally abundant throughout Noadwar, nor infact on any line where toorai prevails between Goalpara and Bishnath;beyond this, however, the increase in latitude may occasion theirdecrease both in number and size. On the southern side of the valleythere is every reason to believe it to be equally common. The generalgeographic range may hence be said to be in latitude 24 degrees, to 26. 5degrees in longitude. It has been stated by Mr. Royle that it does notextend beyond Pundua, Jynteapoor, and Churra Punjee, but on no otherauthority than that it had not been found elsewhere. 

Taking the number of trees at 20, 000, and the produce of each from fourbleedings at two maunds, the annual supply that may be obtained fromDurrung may be estimated at 13, 000 maunds of the caoutchouc itself, assuming Dr. Roxburgh's proportion of one to three to be nearly correct. Some idea may be formed of the extent to which it is procurable, whenfrom the mere outskirts of the forest, 300 maunds of juice may becollected in one month. 

On the excellence of the Assam product as compared with that of America, it does not become me to pronounce. If strength, elasticity, clearness, and perfect freedom from viscidity, be tests of excellence, then thisproduct may be considered as equal to any other. It has been pronouncedby persons in Calcutta to be excellent, but no details have been enteredinto except by Mr. Bell, who objects to its snapping: if by this we areto understand snapping on being pulled too much, in contradistinction tobreaking, it only proves its excellence. It is declared to be inferiorto the American by Mr. McCosh, evidently on examination of the worstpossible specimens. 

The size of the trees as they generally occur in the limits above alludedto, entirely precludes all idea of any great liability to be destroyed bythe extraction of juice, the amount of which must be so minute, comparedto that of the whole tree. Still it may be considered desirable for thesecurity of the tree to limit the bleedings to the cold months, and thisis rendered more necessary by the inferiority of the juice during theseason of active vegetation. And if it be possible to limit the numberof bleedings of each tree to four or five during the above period, Iconsider that the present 3, 000 stock cannot fail to be kept up. But toventure on still larger supplies, to meet the demand for this most usefularticle, a demand to which limits can scarcely be assigned, the formationof plantations should be encouraged, the sites chosen to be near thevillages bordering on the line of the natural distribution of the tree. Propagation by cuttings or layers cannot fail to be of easy and rapidapplication; and if we consider that the tree is the most valuablereceptacle of the lac insect, there is every reason to suppose that thenatives will readily enter into such views. 

The jungle in which the tree occurs is of the usual heavy description, presenting in fact no one feature in particular. The trees are all of atropical nature, except towards the foot of the hills, when two speciesof chesnut and one of alder begin to shew themselves. 

CHAPTER XI. 

_Journey from Assam towards Bootan_. 

Left Gowahatti on the 21st and halted at Ameengong ghat. 

_December 22nd_, _1837_. --Left at twelve and proceeded to Hazoo, whichis nearly due west of Ameengong, and distant thirteen miles. Road, through grassy plains; much cultivation throughout the greater part. Passed several villages, and forded one stream. Hazoo is at the foot ofsome low hills, on one of which is a temple of great sanctity with theBooteahs. The hills above this, as well as between this and Ameengong, abound with Cycas, many of which were once dichotomous; on these hills afleshy Euphorbia likewise occurs, a sure indication of barren soil. Pea-fowl abound. The light-blue Jay figured in Hardwickii, Sterna, Haliaetuspondicerianus, Chat, Butcher-bird, Edolius, Plovers, Hoopoe, and Ardeaindica, were met with. 

_December 23rd_. --Hazoo, a large village, extending nearly north andsouth, all the houses surrounded by trees. Areca bamboos, Ficuselastica, F. Indicoides, F. Religiosa, Sapotea (Mimusops) Arborea, Erythrina. Country to the east very jheely, and one huge expanse ofpaddy cultivation. Fine Loranthus, Hingtstha repens. 

_December 24th_. --Nolbaree, seventeen miles nearly, N. By W. , throughout the latter half of the way, the country consisted of highlycultivated plains, intersected by bamboo jungles, etc. Villages veryabundant, surrounded by trees, especially bamboos. The hedges are madeof a dwarf Pandanus. Crossed four streams, two not fordable. Grallatoresand water-birds innumerable throughout, but especially after passing theBorolia, Bec ouvert or Anastomus coromandelianus, Pelicans, Water-hens, Divers, Ibis bengala, Cigoines (Ardea Pavonia) Syras, Mangoe-bird, largeKing-fisher, Hawks abundant, of which we observed five species; this is, generally speaking, one of the richest parts of Assam I have hithertoseen. 

_December 25th_. --Dum Dummia, distance ten miles, direction north, country very open, in parts less cultivated than before, scarcely anyjungle towards Dum; this is a straggling place on the banks of a smallstream called Noa Nuddee. 

The bamboo continues common, as well as Pandanus, Pterocarpus marsupium, Bombax, Diospyros ebenum, which are the most common trees. Villages arevery numerous, but as usual, entirely concealed from view by jungle. 

_December 31st_. --Up to this morning we remained at Dum Dummia, and hadthe Booteas alone been consulted, we should have remained there till to-morrow. It is a very uninteresting place, the country consisting of oneextensive plain, diversified only by trees wherever there are villages. There is a good deal of cultivation, chiefly however, of rice; somesugarcane is visible, but it is of inferior quality, and evidently notsufficiently watered. Sursoo is considerably cultivated. The river NoaNuddee is about seventy yards wide, with a stream of three miles an hour;it is full of sand-banks and of quicksands, and is crossed with greatdifficulty on elephants; by men it is easily fordable. The only shootingabout the place is Floriken, which are very abundant, ten or twelve beingseen in one day. 

We left for Hazareegoung, a Bootea-Assam village to the north. We passedthrough a similar open country not much cultivated, but overrun withgrassy vegetation. The path was of the ordinary description, and notkept at all cleared: crossed a small stream twice, with a pebbly bed andsub-rapids, a sure indication of approaching the hills. These, in theirlower portion, have a very barren appearance, but this may arise from thecultivated patches: land-slips are of very frequent occurrence. 

The grasses of the enormous plains, so prevalent every where in thisdirection, are Kagaia, Megala, Vollookher, Saccharum spontaneum, this issoft grass, and affords an excellent cover for game, Cymbopogon hirsutum, which is more common than the C. Arundinaceum, Erianthus, Airoides, Rottboellia exaltata, Arundo, (?) Anatherum muricatum, Apluda, Trizaniacilearis, is common in the old rice khets. 

Among these occur a tall Knoxia, Plectranthus sudyensis, and P. Uncinatus. 

I observed Vareca, Grislea, about Dum Dummia. Elytrophorus is common inrice khets. 

Towards Hazareegoung we came on a high plain, covered principally with S. Spontaneum. Among this occurred Lactuioides, Premna herbacea, Grewia, with here and there Pterygodium. I observe here Bootea bamboo basketsmade water-proof by caoutchouc; this is a practice much adopted by theBooteas: and the trees are here. The large coloured stipulae arepeculiar to the young shoots cultivated, they are often a span long. Theyoung fruit is enveloped by three large coloured scales, which originatefrom the annuliform base; this is hence a peduncle, not a bracte, as Ibefore supposed. 

January 1st, 1838. --Halted. 

_January 2nd_. --Marched to Ghoorgoung, a small village, eight milesfrom Hazareegoung and nearly due north. We crossed similar grassytracts: the country gradually rising as we approached the hills. 

Very little cultivation occurred. Crossed the Mutunga, now dry, but thebreadth testifies to its being a large stream in the rains, as theboulders do to its being a violent one. The same plants continue; smalljungle or wood composed of Simool. Trophis aspera, Cassia fistula, Bauhinia, Butea scandens, Byttneria, underwood of Eranthemum, and anotherAcanthacea. 

About this place Cnicus and Arundinaria occur, and a small Santalaceousor Olacineous plant, with the habit of a Polygala. Merops apiaster isvery common. 

_January 3rd_. --To Dewangeri, distance eight miles. 

Our route hither lay for the greater portion up the bed of the Durunga, the stream of which makes its exit about one mile to the west ofGhoorgoung. After ascending its bed for some time, the ascent becomessteep, for perhaps 800 or 1, 000 feet, when we reached a portion ofDewangeri, but two or three hundred feet below the ridge on which thevillage is situated. The hills bounding the watercourse are very steep, many quite perpendicular, owing to having been cut away; generally theyare of decomposed granite as at Dacanara, in some parts of conglomerate. 

The torrent contains but little water, and very few fish, the banks arewooded tolerably well, as soon as the lower barren ranges are past. 

At the base Cassia fistula, Leguminous trees, Artemisia, Simool, Spathodea, Bignonia indica, Sterculia, Caesalpinea, Phlogacanthusthyrsiflorus, Paederia faetida, Eugenia, Rhamnea, Croton malvaefoliis arefound among the usual grasses, which form the chief vegetation. 

These continue along the sandy bed for some time, but afterwards theusual small Andropogons usurp their place. Anthistiria arundinaceacontinue longest; with some of the large Saccharum, Rubus moluccanus soonappears, with Melica latifolia, and a species of Rhus. 

_Leptospartion_ is very common up to 1, 000 feet, Pandanus 3-500 feet, butsoon ceases; the higher precipices abound with an elegant palm tree, habitu Cocos. 

Fleshy urticeae and Aroideum become common at 300 feet, along the shadedwatery banks, and continue so long as shade and humidity are found. Equisetum commences at 300 feet, Arundo, Saurauja, Pentaptera, which lastascends to 1, 000 feet, as does Dillenia speciosa, Castaneae feoroxcommences at 500 feet. Between this and the Choky, Polypodium, Wallichianum arboreum, Davallia grandis, Oxyspora, Musci, Goodyera, andComposita arborea are found. 

At the Choky, the elevation of which is 965 feet, OEsculus begins. Wallichia, * OEschynanthus, Urtica gigas, * Derngia, * Govania, * Anthistiriaarundinacea, Alstonea, Angiopteris, are found. Grislea is found as highas 1, 000 feet. Ficus obliquissima is found at 300 feet, and Ficus alteraspecies as high as 700 feet. 

At 1, 200 feet Rubi sp. , Panax, Cordia, are found, and on the steepascent, Hastingsia, * Gordonia, Eurya, Corisanthera, Griffithia. 

At one place the jack fruits, Ficus elastica, Compositi arborea, Panaxaltera species. 

Dewangeri occupies a ridge 200 feet above our halting place, theelevation of which is 2, 031 feet. The view to the north is confined to aravine of 1, 500 feet deep, at the bottom of which runs a considerablemountain torrent: to the SW. Plains are visible, to the east and west theview is hilly. 

The village itself is a poor one, containing perhaps sixty houses, butthese are divided into three or four groups; the houses, with theexception of three or four stone and lime ones, are of the usual build, viz. Of bamboo, and raised on muchauns. Filth and dirt abound everywhere, and the places immediately contiguous to the huts are furnishedplentifully with various ordures. 

Along the ridge three or four temples occur, these are of theBoodhistical form: they are composed entirely of slate, are white-washed;none are of any size, and the workmanship is rude in the extreme; on eachface of the square basement, slabs of slate with inscriptions arevisible, and in one instance many of these are ranged along a longishwall. The Pagodas are surrounded with long banners, with inscriptionsfastened longitudinally to bamboos. On the west side of this the view isremarkably pretty, embracing all the temples, part of the village, andthe Rajah's house. The hills adjoining being considerably diversifiedand remarkable, and for India over picturesquely wooded. 

The pucka houses are ungainly structures, the height being out of allproportion to the width, the walls are very thick, and composed of slateslabs, the roof is choppered with projecting eaves, the windows are verynarrow. Each has three stories, the middle one being occupied by theowner, this is divided into several rude compartments, each of which hasone or two balconies. 

The steps are rude and awkward, consisting of notches cut into largeblocks. The cooking is carried on, on the ground floor, much to theedification of the residents above. Dirt abounds in every direction. Thedoors are rudely constructed of wood. 

_January 4th_. --To-day was occupied by moving up into the village, inwhich we occupy a pucka house. 

_January 5th_. --Visited the Sooba or Rajah, his house is verypicturesque, reminding me much of the pictures of Swiss cottages: it iswhite-washed, with a red belt. The interior is capacious; the state roomhas hangings, which are decorated with native pictures on cloth. At theeast end is a recess in which are some well-executed Chinese statues, thechief figure is of large dimensions, and is intended to represent theDurmah Rajah, whose statue is supposed to give infallibility. Two bellswere suspended, one from the centre, the other from the balcony, thetongues of which were long, of ivory, and moved by a string. The Rajahreceived us in state, amidst discordant sounds of horns, pipes, anddrums; his followers for the most part were badly clothed, the few decentlooking persons being only decent externally. He was seated on a raiseddais and was well dressed. He is a stout Chinese looking man, about 50years old, and his deportment was certainly easy and dignified. Themeeting was very friendly, but it is evident that we shall be delayedhere at least seven days. 

The central room in the Rajah's house is used as a guard house! arms werefixed round the walls, but they seemed to consist chiefly of spears, swords, and bucklers. 

_January 6th_. --I walked this morning to a village, a mile to the west, in which there is a picturesque pucka house of religion. What pleased meespecially was a specimen of a juniper, of extreme elegance, withdrooping branches. The house itself was of the usual form, and one endwas occupied as usual by an ornamental window and balcony. I noticed inaddition Ulmus and Quercus. 

The vegetation hitherto seen about this, consists of mango trees, severalspecies of fig, among which were Ficus indica, elastica, terminalioides, Papyrifera, etc. Two with cordate leaves occur. Ulmus, Quercus, Bombax, Juniperus and Pinus, both cultivated. Aralia or Panax, four or fivespecies, Croton malvaefolium, Justicia, Adhatoda, Peristrophe, Amaranthaceae, Artemisia, Urtica urens? and heterophylla, Pogostemon, Triumfetta, (these occupy the old cleared spots, ) Castaneae sp. ?Artocarpus integrifolium, Erythrina, Sambucus ebulus, Rubi, threespecies, Solanum farinaceum, Engeldhaardtia, Pandanus, Leptospartion, Calamus, Nauclea, Euphorbia carnosa, foliis ligulatis, Artocarpuschaplasha, the fruit of which is eaten, Phlebochiton extensus, Sedgwickiacerasifolia, Callicarpa arborea, Porana, Randia, sugarcane, citrons, tobacco. 

The fauna contains two or three squirrels, one of which is the small oneof Upper Assam, Trocheloideus, the lesser Edolius or Drongo minor. Mainas, two kinds, carrion crows, Bucco, Muscipeta flammea, and one ortwo other species, Parus, two or three species, kites, largetailor-birds, sparrows. The black-bird of the torrents, and the usualwater-birds, black pheasants; bulbuls very common, Bucco barbatus, parroquets, barking deer. 

The temperature being 58 degrees 61', water boiled at 208 degrees. Themean of two observations accordingly gives the altitude as 2, 165 feetabove the sea. 

The number of houses is about 130, but these form two or three detachedvillages. The population is considerable, and there is no want ofchildren. The people are stout and very fair, with ruddy cheeks, butabominably dirty. Some of the men are six feet in stature. We had oneopportunity of witnessing their practice with the bow, but only two orthree of the dozen candidates were decent shots. The mark was a verysmall one, and the distance 120 steps, but none hit it during the time welooked on, nor even the circular patch of branches, on which the slab ofwood of this form was placed. The practice was accompanied with theusual proportion of noise and gesticulations. 

There is very little cultivation on the hills around, so that this peopleare, at least about here, evidently dependent on the plains for theirsupplies. The cattle are a good breed, and totally different from thoseof the plains. Ponies and mules are by no means uncommon; there arelikewise pigs and fowls, both of which are abundant, and of finedescription. 

_January 16th_. --Every thing leads me to conclude that the Booteas arethe dirtiest race in existence, and if accounts be true, they are equallydeficient in delicacy. Although much beyond other mountain tribesinhabiting either side of the Assam valley, in the structure of theirhouses, in their clothing, in their language, and probably in theirreligion, they are inferior to them in other points. Thus their loomsare perhaps really primitive, and of the most simple construction;neither in their weapons of defence are they at all superior. 

On the 14th I ascended a peak to the eastward, and certainly 1, 000 feetabove the village: on the summit of this, where there were the remains ofan old clearing, I observed Pyrus, Acer, Rhus, Tetrantherae, three orfour species, Bigonia species picta, Carex, Composita arborea, Pterisaquilina, Kydia zyziphifolia, Saurauja, Eurya, Maesa Panax, Artemisia, Hedyotis scandens, Callicarpa arborea, Camellia, Caelogyne, Oberonia, Otochilus fuscescens, Ficus, Cinnamomum, AEschynanthus, Pholidota, Cyrtandra, Piper, Citrus, Corysanthera, Hypoxis, Tupistra, Bambusa. 

Sanicula appeared at 2, 500 feet with Bartramea spectabilis, and a smallOphiorhiza, Acer at 2, 800 feet, as likewise Rhopala; at 2, 000 feet, Costus and Abroma, Thunbergia grandiflora. 

_January 19th_. --I find that large quantities of Mungista or madder aresent to the plains from this, where the plant is very common; it isexchanged for ill preserved salt-fish, one bundle of madder for one fish. This fish is of an abominable odour, and probably tends to increase thenatural savour of the Booteas, which, considering their totalunacquaintance with soap, is sufficiently strong. 

P. Tells me that the Kampo country is situated north of this, and that itmay be reached by a Kampo, in twenty-six days. 

The language of the people we are now among, is distinct from that ofAssam, as will be observed from the names given to the common grainscultivated in both countries, their principal grain is barley, which isof a fine description; very little cultivation being carried on here, thepeople drawing all their supplies from the plains. The following is alist of grains cultivated: those marked * are Cerealea:--

 _Assam_. _Bootea_. 

1* Lalkonee dhan, Yungra, )Panici sp. 2* Legaid ditto, Ditto, )

3 _Boot_, Tel, Hnam, A Sesamum. 

4 _Cultivation_ in Upper Assam, Braime, (Polygonum Fago- (pyrum, grains (very large. 

5* Bhobosa, Khongpo, Eleusine sp. 6* Goomdam, Peihnam, Zea Mays. 7 Gellei-ma, Linjee, Phaseoli sp. 

[Gradient Bootan: g204. Jpg]

The palm from the cliffs on the road hither is evidently a species ofPhaenix, pinnulis inferioribus spiniformibus reticula copiosa, pinnulisliniaribus acuminatissimus, apicem versus canaliculatis reticulo copioso, the height must be about that of a moderate Areca. No specimens of thetrunk, none of flowers and seeds have been brought to me. 

The temples here have a good deal of the Burmese shape, but the dome ismore like that of a Mussulman mosque. 

_January 22nd_. --Yesterday evening Mr. Blake's Khidmutgar died rathersuddenly, he had been ailing for some days, but apparently not serious;his indisposition was owing to over-loading the stomach with radishes, etc. In which all partook too freely during the protracted halt, thuscausing a good deal of sickness. 

This place is so straggling that it is difficult to make a guess at thenumber of the houses, the greater number of the people are temporaryresidents and mostly are natives of Kampo, {205a} they are more dirty thanthe Booteas, and seem to have an especial predilection for begging. Whenwishing to be very gracious they bow and gesticulate awkwardly, shewingtheir tongue at the same time. Their principal dress is coarse woollenclothes, and in lieu of turbans they wear caps or hats. Their beasts ofburden are principally asses, which are perhaps, from bad treatment, undersized: they likewise use goats, and largish animals between goatsand sheep in appearance; of these we saw one male only, it had _once__spiral_ horns. Even a little black kid was not exempt from carrying itsshare, this was ornamented by woollen tassels of a red colour, fastenedthrough a hole in the ear. 

Pemberton tells me, that most of these people come hither with the viewof going to Hazoo, a place of pilgrimage in Assam; some remain here as asecurity for the return of their brethren in three months, the periodduring which leave is granted by our friend the Rajah of this place. Their language is totally different from that of the Booteas. The daybefore yesterday an edict against catching fish, being taken off as Isupposed it would be on shewing the Rajah some flies, Blake and I wentdown, and repeated our visit yesterday; the bed of the river at thedebouchment of the path leading towards Tongsa, is elevated 1, 431 feet, (70. 209. 8), {205b} it is of no great size, and is generally fordable; thefish are almost exclusively Bookhar. {205c} I saw one or twoSentooreahs, {205d} and caught a long thin Bola, {206a} beautifullybanded with purplish-blue. The Bookhars as usual take a fly well, especially red hackles; the largest was caught by Blake, and must haveweighed nearly three pounds. 

Very little worth noticing occurred in the vegetation. Sedgwickia iscommon and of very large size, 2, 400 feet above the river, as well astree ferns. 

Equisetum occurs in the bed of the river; in some places at the samelevel a species of Ranunculus, Aroidea, Succulent Urticeae were common;along the edges or in the small churs, that have established themselveshere and there, and which are covered with the usual Sacchara, but ofsmaller size; Erythrina, Leptospartion, Sambucus, Boehmeria tomentosa, Kydia calycina, Grislea, Tupistra, Leea occurred, Ficus elastica is notuncommon, one specimen presented itself, which had sprung up on anothertree, fifty feet from the ground; this it had destroyed, and theappearance was singular enough. 

The juice is used for water-proofing bamboo vessels. The general rocksare slate, and this was the only one we saw _in situ_; the vegetationis rather barren. 

Near the bed of this river, which is called the Deo Panee, I found acurious Menispermous genus, Columnea, Clypeae perianthia uncialata, oreintegeriuscula, a Myrtacea, Uncaria, Abroma augusta, etc. 

On ascending, Murraya exotica, Magnoliaceae, Paederia faetida, andBignonia, occurred at low elevations, Lobelia baccata, Wulfenia obliqua, Costus, Chloranthus, Justicea orchidiflora below 600 feet, Eurya occurredscarcely below 1, 800 feet with Millingtonia simplicifolia. 

The cattle here are really noble, particularly the bulls; they are muchlike the Mishmee Methuns, but are distinct, {206b} they are very quiet. 

_January 23rd_. --Left at twelve, and arrived late at Rydang on anullah, distant eight miles. Passed no villages, but passed a bridgeerecting over the Deo Nuddee, at which place a Lam Gooroo or high Priestwas employed: vegetation continued the same, and only two new plantsoccurred, a Stemodia with large yellow flowers, and a Begonia, withbranched stems. Rydang is 2, 404 feet above the sea (55. 208. 5. ) {212}

_January 24th_. --Started early in the morning, (at 8 A. M. ) the cooliesmostly leaving at daylight. Yet although the distance was only elevenmiles, we did not reach till 5 P. M. And many of the coolies did notarrive till late at night. The fact is the ascent was nearlyuninterrupted during the day, the highest point traversed being about6, 000 feet. We then descended slightly to Khegumpe, our halting place, the altitude of which is 5, 395 feet (46. 202, ) at the highest point Fahr. Thermometer stood at 42 degrees at 1 P. M. 

The first part of the road lay over grassy sparingly-forested hills, until we reached 4, 000 feet. Here or a little below this the change inthe vegetation commenced, the first elevational plants being Serissoid;Gaultheria, and Rhododendron commenced at about 3, 600 feet on dry rockyeminences, which it always prefers. 

On the 1st eminence, 600 feet above Rydang or 3, 000 feet above the sea, Quercus, Castanea, Sedgwickia, Polypodium Wallichii, Lobelia, Pyramidalis, Composita arborea, Gordonia, Pteris aquilina, Anthistiria, Gramen airoides, Callicarpa arborea, Artemisia, Tephrosia, Flemingia, Govania, and these continued up to 4, 000 feet. We here met with KampoTartars with their laden sheep, the children being generally placedcradle-fashion on the top of the loads, each in its own basket. Iteamacrophylla occurred at 3, 200 feet, with Clematis, Hastingsia, Bignonia, Euphorbiacea, Briedleia. 

At 3, 300 feet Kydia zyziphifolia, Rhopala, Composita arborea, Hypericum, *Triumfetta, Smilax, Indigofera. *

At 3, 600 feet, the same with Panax, Wendlandia, Myrtacea arborea, l. Melica latifolia. 

At 3, 800 feet, Hedychium, Gaultheria, Habenaria, Serissoides, Gnaphalium, Gordonia, here very abundant, covered with Lichens and epiphyticalOrchidea, Phyllanthus, Emblica. 

At 4, 000 feet, Rhododendron arborea, Eugenia, l. Gaultheria arborea, Echinanthus, Bambusa, microphylla. * The same trees continue. 

At 4, 200 feet, Hedychium, Briedleia, Pyrus, Ficus, * and Rhododendron inflower, Gordonia, Itea macrophylla, Pteris aquilina, Osbeckia nepalensis, Artemisia major, Airoides, Flemingia. 

At 4, 500 feet, Myrica, Callicarpa arborea, Verbenaceae, Buddlaeoid, *Ardisia, Maesa, Panax, Piper, Styrax, Camellia, * Polygonum rhaeoides, Cyrthandra common, Mimosa arborea, Betula, * Ficus, foliis cordatishispidis, Kydia calycina, Inga, Rubus moluccanus. Anisadenia, Begonia, Otochilus latifolius, Tussilaginoides, Neckerae, Urtica, Gaylussacia, Lobelia, Panax, AEschynanthus venosus of Churra, * Lycopodium ofSurureem, * Smilax ruscoideus, * Liparis, Rhododendron arboreum verum, Bucklandia of vast size. Hoya fusca, Ophiopogno, Viola, Hymenophyllum, Croton heterophyllum, Convallaria oppositifolia, Plectranthus Roylii, Begonia picta, Isachne, Cerastium, Spiraea, Hedera, Hypericum, Peliosanthes, Carex gracilis rupium, which commenced at 5, 500 feet, Bambusa microphylla. 

The forests here were damp and tropical so far as herbaceous underwoodswere concerned, the trees were loaded with mosses chiefly pendulousNeckerae and Hypnea, as well as the rocks, Epiphytes were common. 

We then continued along ridges about the same elevation, Ranunculus, Hemiphragma, Thibaudia buxifolia, Polygonum rheoides, Pyrus indica. Gnaphalium common, Pteris aquilina, Airoides, Artemisia on sunny spots, Gaultheria, Galium of Churra, Arundo. The trees were about this allscraggy, but of picturesque appearance. Choripetalum, Panax, Laurineae, *Piper, Cissus, Photinia and Gleichenia major, Thibaudia myrtifolia, *Potentilla, Calophyllum, * Hydrangea arbuscula, * Thalictrum majus, *Crawfurdia speciosa, * Macrocapnos, * Daphne papyrifera. *

Our march now wound round a huge hill with rocky head, lowering severalhundred feet above us, the road being narrow, rocky, overhanging vastprecipices. All the trees were scraggy, stunted with tufted grasses. Here about Dipsacus of Churra occurred, Buddleia, Phlomoides, Lonicera, Rosa, _Jubrung_, Cheilanthes dealbata of Brahmakund, Asparagus, Urticeaarborea floribus faem. Capitulatis aurantiaces, Spiraea bella, Hymenopogon, Saxifraga ligularis, * on the rocks Primula, * in thecrevices, with Hydrocotyla, Thalictrum renatum, Umbelliferae, * Scirpus, Stemodia, Compositae, Hypericum, Didymocarpus contortus of Oklong, Erianthus, Gymnostomum, all these on the bare rocks. Along the path, Codonopsis, Cnicus, Valeriana, Hardwickia, Lobelia. 

Hence we passed along nearly at the same elevation through romanticpaths, the vegetation being European, and comparatively open: the treescovered with moss, with grassy swards here and there: the scenery wasbeautiful, the descent hence to Khegumpa was gradual and easy, alongsimilar paths. 

Noticed the following trees, etc. In the following order: Tetranthera, Gaultheria arborea, Tradescantia cordifolia, * Acer, Polygala, Deutzia, Tradescantia, Jasminum triphyllum, Plectranthus azureus, Macrocapnos, Rubia cordifolia, * Cucurbitacae Cissampeloid, then forests ofRhododendron, on the paths Swertia, Potentilla, Fragaria, Alnus Acerfolius palmatum lobatis oppositis, Porana. 

This day I gathered about 130 species, the march was really delightful. The plants marked thus * indicate elevation. 

Madder is furnished by both Rubia munjista and R. Cordifolia, thesespecies are quite distinct, the latter affecting greater elevations thanthe former, scarcely descending below 4, 000 feet. 

Scarcely any water occurred on the route; from just above Khegumpa, abeautiful valley is seen to the left, with a good deal of cultivation. Nolarge villages were seen. 

[Gradient Rydang to Khegumpa: g210. Jpg]

_January 25th_. --Khegumpa. This is a pretty place; but the wholecountry has a wintry appearance from the trees having mostly deciduousleaves; it is a small village, not containing twelve houses. Pagodaswith the inscription-bearing walls occur as usual; on a small hill risingfrom just below the village, a large house with out-houses belonging to aLam Gooroo, is the prettiest bit of architecture I have yet seen. We putup in a small house, of the usual poor construction, capable ofcontaining four or six people, the roofs are of wood, the planks beingkept down by stones. The evening was very cold, but the thermometer didnot fall below 44 degrees. Here a solitary specimen of Pinus was seen. 

A beautiful tree, with pendulous leaves and cones, which resemble thoseof Abies, occurred. Rhododendron is common here. Around the hut Iobserved Lobelia, Rumex, Quercus, Ranunculus, Plantago, Leucas ciliata, Gnaphalia, Rubus, Urtica urentior, Rubi 2, Pteris aquilina, Geranium, Galium, Artemisia major, Fragariae, Betula? ramis pendulis, foliislineari lanceolatis, _Jubrung_, Phlomoides, in flower, Spiraea bella, Tetranthera, Daucus, Gleichenia major, Oxalis corniculata, Dipsacus. Thetrees were covered with Lichens; the only cultivated plants I saw, and ofthese only straggling individuals, were tobacco and Bhobosa. 

In a wood at the base of the hill on which the Lam Gooroo's house issituated, Saurauja hispida, and S. Arborea, * Woodwardia, * Rubiacordifolia, Oaks, Spiraea bella, decomposita, Stemodia, Cerasus, Curculigo, Pogonatherum, * Carduus, Polygonum rheoides, Panax, Bucklandia, Berberis asiatica and Porana, occurred. 

Our march, after passing this hill, commenced by a descent through a dampwood of Oaks, Eurya. Here Swertiae 2 occurred on banks. Clematisverbesina, Gordonia, Erythrina, Myrica. Thence we passed along a ridge, the forests being stunted and wintry, abounding with Rhododendron andoaks. Myrica, and pendulous lichens occurred in abundance, but grassespredominate, chiefly Airoid and Andropogons. 

From this to the right was seen a beautiful valley with a moderate-sizedvillage and picturesque houses, with considerable and very clevercultivation. 

Thence we crossed to the other side of the ridge, descending a little andthen continuing through forests of oak, consisting of a species found onthe Khasyah hills, and approaching Q. Robur: as all the leaves hadfallen, the whole appearance was that of winter. Here I shot the Jayfigured in Royle's work: continuing to descend very gradually, I observedEpilobium, * Neckera, Fissidens, Brachymenium, Nerioideum in fruit andhalf buried in the fallen leaves; a pretty Gentiana, Ruta albiflora, Potentilla. After passing along this for some way we commenced a sharpdescent. At about 4, 800 ft. Vitex simplex, occurred. Indigoferare-appeared, with Saccharum rubro nitens of Churra, the other grassesbeing Andropogons, 2-3, and Orthopogon, Hedychium, Gordonia soonre-appeared: to the east, cultivation was visible, and to the north, Pines were visible in every direction stretching away far below us to aconsiderable torrent. About one-third of the way down this steep ravine, at the bottom of which a torrent was heard roaring, Wendlandia, Spiraeabella, Hedychium, Gaultheria arborea, Aspera Rhododendron, Pterisaquilina, Artemisia, Saurauja hispida, Indigofera, Eurya, Mimosa arborea, Maesa angustifolia of yesterday; Osbeckia nepalensis, Viburnum, Tetranthera, Ficus, Gleichenia minor, Crawfurdia speciosa, Polygonumrheoides, were found. Hitherto the woods had been dry, or rather so, buton turning to the east, we came into damp woods presenting many tropicalfeatures, along which we continued descending gradually for some time: atthe commencement in this, Callicarpa arborea, a weeping Beech, Dipsacusverbesina, and the Alnus, of Thumathaya occurred, Arbutoideus, Hydrangea, Urtica heterophylla, Neuropeltoid aromatica. Then below we came onPiper, Deeringia, Cerasus, Sanicula, Cyrtandracea, Cheilosandra gracilis, and fleshy Urticeae. Underwood, herbaceous forms of Acanthaceae, Ferns, as Davallia, Asplenium, all more or less succulent. Darea, Glycine, Buchanania, Saurauja ferruginea, Thalictrum majus, Pothos, etc. Hypericum, Begonia, Panax terebinthaceus, Magnoliacae, Garciniae, Valeriana cordifolia. * Passing on at the same elevation, we suddenlyrounded a ridge, and in one moment came on dry, sunny, rocky, grassyground, the trees being exclusively Rhododendron, oaks and a fewGordonias with Airoid, Andropogons, Pteris aquilina: we then came on thebrink of the ridge up to which Pinus longifolia ascends; the elevation ofthis was 4, 132 feet (60. 204. 5. ) {212} From this all around Pinus isvisible in profusion; we then dipped to the south, this face beingoccupied by thick forest, having Rhododendrons on the skirts. From theabove spot Saleeka was visible, with a fine grove of Pines, it is 1, 500feet, at least above this. 

The descent was steep, we soon came on Callicarpa arborea, Celtis megala, Pogostemon, Stemodia grandiflora; this was about 4, 300 feet, where aclearing had been commenced: close to this I observed Martynia, Pteris, Composita arborea, Desmodium vestilum, Flemingia, and gathered at 4, 000feet a Verbenaceous shrub, looking like a Plumbago, and a Boehmeria;continuing, without descending much, I came on Pinus, Rhododendron, Gaultheria. 

Loranthus was here a common parasite on Pinus, oaks occurred but thespecies was changed; this had small leaves, white underneath; anddescending we continued through pine woods, Artemisia minor, togetherwith the usual grasses and Aspideium macrosomum. 

Here we travelled along a hill just above a ravine. Either side of thiswas covered with grasses and pines, the ravine being crowded with oaks, etc. Panax, and Composita arborea occurred. 

A little below this, Hastingsia, common, Desmodium hispidisum, Artemisiaminor, Briedelia, Mimosa, and several Compositae: we continued descendingvery steeply, and observed Holcus elegans, Melica latifolia, ErianthusApludoid Circium. 

At 2, 600 feet, came on Scutellaria; Pines had ceased, but on the oppositeside of the nullah, they descended lower. Knoxia scandens, Kydiacalycina, Hastingsia, Hedyotis linearis, Ficus pedunculis radiciformibuspendulis, Leguminous trees as Dalbergia, Triumfetta; Boehmeria, Asparagus, Buchanania again, Solanum, 10-dentat. , Urtica urens, --l. (66. 208. 5. ) {212}

The altitude of the bed of the Cameon nullah is here, 1, 937 feet, itsbanks are formed by hills cut away and hence precipitous, those to theeast are covered with Pines, Oaks descend to this. Here Arundo Karka, Leptospartion, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Solanum farinaceum, blackpheasants of which I shot a male. Ficus Dumooriya, Grislea, Rhamnoidscandens, Pandanus, Boehmeria torrentum, Urtica pendula, BarleriaPrionites of Dgin, Sida cuneifolia, Dalbergioid. 

Thence we ascended 100 feet or thereabouts, and descended to another andlarger torrent. Anonaceae, Phlogacanthus thyrsifloris here occurred. 

The bed of this stream is 70 to 80 yards wide, but the volume of water isinconsiderable. The hills forming the opposite bank are lofty, not under4 to 5, 000 feet; their bases and the nullah above alluded to have thevegetation of Dgin, otherwise they are clothed with the usual grasses andnoble Pines. The brown bird with crooked bill was heard here. 

At 500 feet above the torrent Menispermum, Bidens albiflora, Megala, Leptospartion, Verbenacea, Plumbaginea, Mucuna, Desmodium hispidum andFicus were seen as before: Phyllanthus, Emblica, and Grislea occurred at800 feet: Grewia at 1, 000 feet: and Osbeckia linearis occurred at 1, 200feet in rocky places; with Poa, Cynosuroides of Churra, and Bassia at1, 300 feet, with Emblica, Labiata sudyensis, Osbeckia nepalensis, Ficus. 

On rounding the ridge to the east, which is 200 feet above this place_Sassee_, we came on a forest of oak, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Pothospinnatus. 

_January 26th_. --Sassee. Our coolies left us here, they are not verygood ones, not equal to Khasyah, they are however merry, and whistle orsing when tired, their feet are generally naked, but occasionally theywear leathern sandals. Thermometer 60 degrees: water boiled at 204. 5degrees: altitude 4, 109 feet. 

About this place I first met with Thlaspi bursa pastoris, Malvarotundifolia also occurs, Ligustrum, Adhatoda! Euphorbia ramis 4-gonis, foliis? in spinis abeuntibus! Bambusa, Urtica urentior, Geranium, Rumexof Khegumpa, Pancratium or Crinum! Peristropha triflora, Holcus elegans, Pteris aquilina both Artemisias, Panicum cynosuroides! Stemodiumruderalis! Callicarpa arborea! Cerasus, Pyrus indica and malus, Barleriaprionitis! Ervum, Hedychium coronarioides! in wet places, Buchanania, Peperomia, Moschosma! Dendrobium! Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gordonia, Dioscorcae! Tetrantheroid arbor magna, Pinus longifolia, Quercus, 2-sp. Rhus, Citrus also is found. Thus the mixture of forms is nearlyexcessive, those marked ! thus indicate usually low elevations. Rubiacordifolum. 

The whole four leaves of this plant are petiolate, but one pair isperhaps always unequal, one occasionally abortive, I look upon this as aproof that the so-called stipulae of Stellatae are real leaves. There isthis difference then between Rubiaceae and Stellatae, the one has coveredbuds, the other not. The development of the lamine before the petiole isparticularly conspicuous in this plant. 

Buck-wheat with trisulcate seeds, and Cannabis sativa are found here;barley is cultivated. 

_January 27th_. --Sassee: temperature 58 degrees, big metal thermometer. Tomato found here; Leptospartion ascends woody ravines as far as this; ofbirds, the larger dove is abundant; Verbena officinalis. 

_January 28th_. --On walls about this a Lobelia, and Stemodia ruderalisoccurred. Sassee is a ruined village, said once to have been large, nowcontaining not more than five or six houses, an equal number being inruins. 

_January 29th_. --Commenced to descend almost immediately, until wereached the Giri Nuddee, we then ascended again 5, 600 feet, and continuedover excessively precipitous rocky ground, until we reached the nullahagain. 

The same vegetation continued until we had descended some hundred feet. Pinus, Quercus, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Indigofera, Osbeckia nepalensis, Desmodium, Gaultheria arborea, Rubus, deltoidifolius, Conyza, Sauraujaferruginea, Crawfurdia speciosa, Labiata sudyensis, Dipsacus occurs butis rare, Gordonia, Rubus idaeus, Gleichenia minor, Pendulous lichens, Galium asparagus, Engeldhaardtia, Smilax. 

The descent was steep. Thibaudia myrtifolia, Peperomia, Stemodiagrandis, Airoid, Otochilus linearis. 

At 300 feet Composita arborea, and penduliflora, Polygonum rheoides, Flemingia, and a cleared spot with Zea Mays. 400 feet Pteris aquilina, Rubus moluccanus, Aspidium Polypodioides, Lygodium, Aspidium macrosorum, Moschosma, Mimosa arborea, Millet, Cerasus, Hedyotis, Plectranthus, Roylia, Knoxia Scandens, Ruta albiflora, Rottlera, commenced at 500 feet. Stemodia, Hovenia, Cerastium, 4-Ovulatum, Carex. 

[Gradient Khegumpa to Sassee: g216. Jpg]

Carex, Kydia, Jujubifolia, Randia, Hovenia, occurred at 600 feet, withRhopala, Panax, Ficus obliqua. 

Then shady jungle commenced, underwood of Ferns, Acanthaceae, Urticeae, Andropogons, Stemodia secunda occurred at 700 feet. {217a} Hastingsia, Pogostemon, Kydia calycina, Glypea, Curculigo, 750 feet, with ClematisCana, Cerasus, Quercus Robur, this came down a ridge. Rhus acidissima. 

Scleria, Lycopodia, Maesa, Sterculia Balanghas, and Kydia Jujubifolia, at900 feet. {217a} Phlomoides, Acanthacea specicosa, Pothos pinnatus, Choulmoogrum, Malpighiacea, at 1, 000 feet. {217a} Buchanania, Magnolia, Achyranthes, Murraya exotica, Sedgwickia, Urtica Gigas, Chloranthusinconspicuus, Peliosanthes, Phaenix pygmaea, Hedysarum acenaciferum, at1, 200 feet. {217a}

The altitude of the bed here is 3, 112 feet (64. 206. 2: of Woollaston, 6. 4. 3) {217b} and along its banks Cissus, Woodwardia, Megala, PolygonumRheoides, Mimosa arborea, Curculigo, Woodwardia, Andropogon fuscum, Conaria, Potentilla, Rumex, Rubia cordifolia, Drymaria, and Begoniaoccurred. 

The ascent was steep, leading over several land slips, the samevegetation continuing. Oaks, Pines, Rhododendrons occupying the moreexposed faces, and the usual humid jungle characterising aspects not somuch exposed. Pinus longifolia strays down to within 100 feet of thenullah. We passed a pretty cascade discharging a considerable body ofwater: here at 200 feet {217a} above the nullah, I observed Crotalariajuncea, the Betula of Thumathaya, Quercus lanatus, Leea crispa, Panaxterebinthaceus, Indigofera, Scutellaria, Clematis, Cana, Panax altera, Mimosa, Porana, Arundo karka, Flemingia, Conyza, Aspidium macrosomum. 

At 400 feet, {217a} Itea macrophylla, Ficus, Composita arborea. Thewoods are dry, but little occurring underneath the trees, except theusual grasses, Andropogons and Airoides. At 500 feet, {217a} Thibaudiamyrtifolia, Triumfetta mollis, Composita penduliflora, Lysimachia, Pinus, Rhododendron. The ground now became excessively rocky, the road windingalong at the same elevation, not more than a foot wide. 

At 600 feet, {217a} Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia, Acanthacea lurida, Gentiana, as before. Gordonia, Bambusa, Microphylla, Arum viviparum, Tussilaginoid, Wendlandia, Thibaudia, _variegatoides_, and a myrtifolia;Sedum, rocks strewn in every direction covered with Sedum and epiphylicalorchideae. 

On rounding a ridge with a north-east aspect we came without altering ourelevation, on a humid jungle. Pothos pinnatus and red, Ferns, Acanthaceae, Choripetalum, Calamus, Acrostichea, Blakea, Grammitisdecurrens, Moschosma. We descended through similar jungle with Pandanusalso occurring until we again changed our aspect, when the oak woods, etc. Reverted with Rhododendron and Thibaudia myrtifolia; again changing, we returned to an intermediate jungle, gradually assuming all the humidcharacters of those places passed before. Here I observed Tupistra, Asplenium nidus, at 200 feet above the bed of a nullah. Rottleria, Mimosa arborea, Crawfurdia, Speciosa, Zanthoxzlon triphyllum. 

Along the bed of this nullah, Crawfurdia speciosa, Potentilla, Choripetalum, Eurya, Ranunculus, Cardamina, Juncus! Oxyspora, Sauraujahispida, occurred; some in a sort of marsh, with Thibaudia variegatoides. The places along which torrents formerly flowed were occupied by Typhaelephantina, Kujara, Megala, Arunda, the Alnus of Bhailseeree, Artemisiamajor, Rubus deltoidifolia, (Corysanthera hispida with Juncus;) hereAnthistiria arundinacea, Artemisia minor, Bucco grandis (Bird), Polygonumrheoides, Baehmeria torrentum, Gaultheria deflexa, Indigofera, Oaks, Gordonia, Holcus elegans, Conaria nepalensis in flower, and Erythrinaoccurred along the bed, up which we proceeded about a mile. 

We then ascended among Pines and Oaks, Callicarpa arborea, and others, ascending up the humid ravines, which in the rains give exit totorrents--at 300 feet noticed a different Pinus, which is observed inabundance on a mountain on the opposite side, up which it ascends 2 or3, 000 feet. 

Callicarpa azurea, Buddleia Neemda, Eugenia, Serissoides, and theSaccharum of Churra, occurred here. 

The ascent was continual but gradual, rounding the almost precipitousface of the hill, the path was stony, often loose and frequently notabove a foot wide, with a precipice lowering above and yawning beneath. The vegetation had, with the exception of the Pines, Oaks, andRhododendrons, all been burnt, so that the ascent was uninteresting. Aswe neared the summit it became bitterly cold, a strong biting wind nearlycutting us in two: we reached Bailfa, which is on the summit butsheltered, at 6 P. M. 

Conaria occurs at the top! being more advanced in flower than below; inone instance with young capsules. I noticed Pogonatherum, Didymocarpuscontortus, Serissoides, Gaultheria fruticosa, Polytrichum fuscum, gathered at 7, 000 feet, previously: at 1, 200-1, 500 feet above the nullah, Indigofera reaches the top. In a sheltered place here I found abeautiful Gaultheria; a small Campanula occurs on the rocks at from 1, 000feet upwards. 

BAILFA or _Bulphai_. --This place is 6, 808 feet above the level of thesea, yet on the east and south are mountains towering far above it. Snowis said to fall in February, but sparingly--the hills around are bleak, thinly vegetated, except those on the south of the Geerea, which are morewooded. There are only a few houses. Turnips and barley are cultivatedhere, and in these fields may be found a Cruciferous annual, and probablya small species of Lamium. The chief cultivation is visible in thevalleys below. Buckwheat is among the number. 

_January 29th_. --To-day I sallied out a few hundred yards to the west, on turning over the ridge, the south side of which is so bleak, thinlycovered with Q. Lanata and Rhododendrons, I found myself in a thick shadyjungle, the chief tree being a species of oak, widely different from Q. Lanata. The trees and shrubs are loaded with mosses, especiallypendulous Neckerae, Daltoniae, Hypne; Hookeria, Fissidens, etc. Occurredon the ground. I imagine, I gathered twenty-five species of mosses here. Ferns were likewise abundant; I noticed Daphne papyracea, Berberisasiatica, Conyza nivea, Smilax ruscoides, OEschynanthus venosus, Hedera, Ophiopogon linearis, O. Latifolius, Cymbidium viridiflorium, Ardisiacrenata, Carex, Piper! Clematis, Gordonia, Spiraea decomposita, Compositavolkamerifolia, Cissus, Smilax, Bambusa microphylla, Viburna, as before. Gaylussacia serrata and microphylla, the former in fruit. Thibaudialanceolata, buxifolia, Gaultheria of yesterday. 

On the exposed face Santalacea, Gentiana, Hypericum decussatum ofMoflong, Leucas ciliata, Ischaemum pygmaeum, on Rhododendron, Loranthusobovatus. The mosses of this side were Brachymenium, Tortula, Famaria, Trichostomum, Neckerae, Polytrichum fuscum, Zygodon? Dendrobium andOtochilus, occur here. A stray and small Abies occurs on the ridgeitself. 

About the village of Bailfa, occur Urtica urens, Artemisia major, Saccharum aristatum, Rubus triphyllus, Senecio scandens, Rumex, Chickweed, Stemodia ruderailis, Lactucoidea murorum, Carduus, Phlomoides, Rubus deltoidifolies, Achyranthoid, densa. 

_January 30th_. --Thermometer at 7 A. M. 40 degrees. The houses here areroofed with split bamboos, and they are tied on by rattans, a precautionrendered necessary by the boisterous winds which prevail. The place isvery cold; the thermometer varying from 40 degrees to 52 degrees; meantemperature of the day 46 degrees. 

In the barley fields I noticed Fumariae sp. , Potentilla and Cynoglossum. Erythrina ascends to this! Pyrus Malus and Spiraea bella occur. 

_January 31st_. --Our march this day commenced with an ascent of a ridgelying to the north-east of our halting place, this occupied us some time, and at last we reached a pagoda, visible from Bailfa, and which is nearly1, 000 feet above that place. Thence we descended about a hundred feet, through a well-wooded situation. Emerging thence at about the sameelevation, we crossed barren bleak downs; the ravines being alone wooded, and hence the woods had that rounded, defined appearance, so remarkablein some parts of the Khasya hills. 

Thence the descent was continued to Roongdong, the march is an easy one, about seven miles. 

The first new plant that occurred was an Allium on rocks, but it had beendried up by the fires which had bared the surface of the hill of everything, except the trees and stouter shrubs, capable of resisting itsaction. 

Toward the pagoda, on the summit of the ridge, Pendulous lichens wereabundant, Epiphytes were common, consisting chiefly of Orchideae, withthe 2 Gay Lussacias, Rhododendron punctata, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Orthodon, Tussilaginoid, Alnus occurred at 7, 300 feet. The othervegetation continued. 

At 7, 400 feet, a new Quercus appeared, this, which has in its youngstate, leaves much like those of the Holly, and may therefore be calledQ. _elicifolia_! Andropogon, Viburnum caerulium, Neckera, Bambusamicrophylla, Fragaria, Potentilla, Conyza nivea, Scabiosa Spiraeadecomposita, Gillenioides, Smilax ruscoideus, Hyperica of Moflong, Campanula, Swertia, Dipsacus. 

At 7, 500 feet, Epilobium, Rosa, Vaccinium cyaneum! Rhododendroncoccineum, Tetranthera. 

At 7, 800 feet, Abies pendulifolia, Hemiphragma. 

At the pagoda, and about it, Grimmia was found on rocks, with the usualpendulous Neckerae, Q. Ilecifolia, Vibura, Hypericum. 

Abies Brunoniana, a large solitary tree, with pendulous branches, Tetranthera, Laurineae, Smilax gaultherifolia, Ilex, on the wooded sideof the ridge. Ferns and mosses were abundant, Ilex! Daphne papyracea. 

Eurya, Panax rhododendrifolia, Rhododendron arborea, minus et majus. Thetree of Thumathaya foliis ad apicem ramorum aggregatis, petioliscolorat. , Celastrinea Euryifolia, Tetranthera another species withoutleaves. In the more moist places a small Urticeae, Lonicera as before, on the exposed side stunted Q. Ilecifolia, Dipsacus, Gnaphalia, Vacciniumcyaneum, and Gramineae, Hemiphragma, Potentilla, Campanula, Tussilaginoides. Long tailed grey monkeys. 

The ridge we crossed, runs up into a bleak ridge on which are houses, andwhich cannot be under 9, 500 feet high, about the descent through thewood, which did not extend many hundred yards. I noticed Galium, Valeriana, Crawfurdia fasciculata, Sphaeropteris Betula corylifolia, Hypericum, Spiraea gillenioides, Rubus cordifolius, Senecio scandens, Juncus effusoideus, in wet places, Rhododendron majus, coming intoflower, (flower white) Cerastium bacciferum, arborea, canescens, Cissus, Rubus moluccanus, Elaeagnus, Rubus potentillifolia, Plantago, Ligustrum, Berberis pinnata and asiatica, which last is generally covered withlichens. 

Xanthoxylum, Lilium giganteum! Polytrichium fuscescens, Trichostomumanielangioides, Pohlia, on walls and rocks, Adoxa! in wet places underbanks, with a fleshy Urticea: about this was observed the brick-red andblack bird. {221}

Along the naked ridge and on the downs, which had a most wintryappearance, and where it was bitterly cold, the Lycopodium of Surureemwas found, also Vaccinium cyaneum, Gnaphalium, Pteris aquelina stunted, Hypericum of Moflong, Swertia stunted, Hemiphragma. 

The defined woods are formed of oaks and stray Abies pendulifolia, Panaxrhododendrifolia, Berberis asiatica, and B. Pinnata. 

Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron minus, and R. Arborea, (Euphorbia, and Juncus on the swards. ) Eurya, Gaultheria arborea, Stauntonia. Fromthis ridge a village near Benka is visible, as well as a large stream, the Goomrea, and several villages. The one we now inhabit, being thebest looking and occupying a deep valley, is surrounded with much terracecultivation. 

Descending still farther we left the downs, first coming into the scraggywoods of Oaks, Rhododendron, Quercus, chiefly Q. Robur. About here wemet abundance of people going to Hazoo from Kampo; they were accompaniedwith asses chiefly carrying burdens of one maund weight; few goats; oneyak was seen of a black colour; a low compact animal, much resembling, except in the absence of a hump, the bison: it was not a handsomespecimen. We also passed a village to the left, containing about twentyhouses, here a Nai gooroo, or person of rank, resides, and here I alsogot fruit-bearing specimens of Abies pendula. 

Noticed, as I descended, Pyrus, Cerasus, Magnoliacea, Gaultheria arboreaand frutex, Pteris aquelina, Quercus sclerophylla of Bulphai, Viburnumcaerulescens and angustifola! Rhododendron minus, Ilex! Aspid. Nidus, Gordonia, Q. Lanata, Woodwardia, Rubia albiflora, Gleichenia major, Pyrusindica. Then we came to a pretty temple built like a house, with a finespecimen of Cypress pendula, altitude of the place 7, 000 feet. From thisa fine view of Roondong is obtained. 

Still descending a short distance came to another temple, with a dome ofthe ordinary form, and a large square terraced basement, and inscribedslabs in the recesses. Hence the ascent was very steep. Erythrinum, Buddleia! Indigofera! Spiraea bella, Artemisia major! Polygonum rheoides!Rubus deltoidens! Curculigo, Conaria nepalensis, Thalictrum majus!Asparagus, Jubrung! Oxalis corniculata, Clematis cana, Eurya ferruginea!Santalacea australas, Pyrus malus! Elaeocarpus! Maesa salicifolia. Wethen crossed a small torrent, and ascended about 100 feet to Roongdong;noticed Stemodia grandiflora! Spiraea bella, Conaria, Erythrium, Elaeagnusspinosus, Salix? buds with velvet or woolly hairs, Martynia! Hedera!Citrus! Woodwardia. 

The transitions of the flora were this day well shewn. The plants whichindicated the greatest elevation are, Vaccinium, Abies Brunoniana, Saxifraga, or Adoxa, Q. Ilecifolia, Rhododendron formosum, R. Arboreummajus, Sphaeropteris, Ilex, Eurya acuminata? Panax rhododendrofol. , Berb. Pinnata and B. Asiatica, Mespilus, Microphylla, Juncus. 

The occurrence of the Urticea at such elevation is curious, the proofs ofthe wonderful effects of humidity, and non-exposure were particularlyshewn, between the exposed south face of the Bulphai mountain, and thenorth-east face which was wooded. 

From scarcity of grass, horses were here seen to feed on boughs so highas to be obliged to stand on stones, to get at their food. They arelikewise fed on maize and tares; the poultry is of a large brood. Thecocks are atrociously noisy, two in particular had such lengthened, cracked or quavering voices, that they were quite a nuisance. We put upin the house of the Dumpa or head man. It is situated on the top of astony, and a bitter cold place, exposed to the four winds of heaven. House very large, and our host a little man with great airs, and a redcoat or wrapper of coarse English cloth, drinks intensely. 

During our stay at this place he invited Pemberton and Blake to shootpigeons; the poor man thought that they would not be able to hit them, onfinding out his mistake, he put an end to the sport. 

Atriplex is cultivated here, Mooreesa of Assam, Hempstee of the Booteas, though seeds are used as well as the leaves. 

The loads of salt brought down by the Tibetans on asses are packed upneatly in coarse cloths, and weigh upwards of forty seers each. 

[Gradient Bulphai to Roongdong: g224. Jpg]

_February 1st_. --Our march commenced by descending gradually at first, then very rapidly to the Dimree nuddee: crossing this at the junction oftwo streams, we ascended a little and then kept along the side of theridge forming the right bank of the nuddee, until we came over theMonass: thence proceeding about one and a half mile, we reached Tassgongor Benka which is situated on this river, and about 1, 000 feet above it. This we crossed by a suspension bridge. 

But little interesting botany occurred to-day: Chenopodium sp. Occurs infields at Roongdong. The terrace cultivation here had just yielded acrop of rice, and was now planted with wheat. Agriculture would appearto be at a low ebb, and if the country is populous, the people must behalf-starved. 

Water was abundant throughout the route: the Monass is a large stream, but not generally very deep, although from its rapidity it must dischargeeven at this season a great body of water. Composita pendulifloradescends to the Dimree, the altitude of which is about 3, 000 feet, so infact did most of the plants found about Roongdong. Pyrus continues half-way, Rhododendron to the bottom. Hovenia at an altitude of 5, 000 feet, Randia--as also Tetranthera oleosa, and a new Flemingia. 

At 4, 900 feet, _Jubrung_ occurs. --Clematis Cana, Luculiae sp. , Conyzoideanivea, Kydia calycina, Mimosa arborea, began at 4, 800 feet: Gaultheria, arborea, Gordonia, descend to the bottom: Crawfurdia speciosa, Oxyspora, Aspidium, Macrostomium, and Polypodioides, Saurauja hispida, Hypericum, Spiraea bella, Gillenioinis, Quercus, Rubus, and Viburnum caerulescens. Atree yielding lac, which had lately been cut, and Meliaceae, Rhustriphyllum. Hence some snow was visible on a lofty ridge above ourheads, at least 9, 500 feet, the snow descending a considerable way downravines. Of birds, Bulbuls and Bucco, were here observed. 

At --- feet, Leguminosa arborea, Loranthus Scurrula, Kydia Wendlandia, Celtis, Osbeckia nepalensis, a Vitex, Grislea, Pteris aquilina, Indigofera! Acanthacea caerulea. 

At --- feet, Triumfetta mollis, Composita arborea, Pterospermum, fructibus 10-valvibus, valvis lobatibus, Sem. Alatis. Santalaceaaustralasica, here a large shrub. 

At the nullah, Fici sp. , Saccharum Megala, Verbenacia? foliis apice crasolobatis. On the opposite side, Pinus longifolia, to within 200 feet ofthe nullah, Phlebochiton extensus! Solanum farinaceum! Achyranthes densa!a Plumbaginacea which is a Paederioid Rubiacea, and another Ficus, Hastingsia, Bassia, Labiata Sudyensis, Grislea, very common, Emblica, Ficus obliquus were found along the road, after crossing the nullah. Theridge of the mountain was rocky, barren, covered chiefly with grasses, the Butea of Nurtung, Artemisia minor, Umbelliferae, Desmodium vestilum, Kalanchoe, also occurred. At the few houses below our path, we sawplantains! and bamboos as well as mangoes! The terraces here are frontedwith stones: Lemna occurred in water; Linaria on rocks; Conaria and afleshy Euphorbia, this last, about villages. 

The occurrence of plantains and mangoes here is curious, and a sure signof mild climate, as Kalanchoe is of dryness; nothing could well exceedthe barrenness of the road, from crossing Dumria to Benka. 

Benka is a straggling place, built on a ridge overhanging the Monass, andon exceedingly rugged ground, the north face of the ridge being nearlyequally steep; the southern face, contains about fifty houses, all ofwhich are small and a few in ruins. The only large house is the Rajah's, which is said to be of Chinese construction. 

This day the Rajah paid us a visit; a tent was pitched for his receptionon the open ground before our house, consisting of a small silken pall, with two high silken parti-coloured kunnauts. He arrived about eleven, preceded and succeeded by followers amounting to less than a hundred. Onreaching the ground, he was carried or shuffled off his horse anddeposited in the tent amid most terrific screechings. He took an immensetime to arrange for our admission. We found him seated on a shabbythrone, with a head priest, a coarse looking man, on his right, on a lesselevated seat. Brass cups, etc. Were arranged before him. Our chairsoccupied the left; a present of fruits, onions, etc. , the floor. Themeeting was friendly, and he promised us coolies in two days. He is ayoungish man with a square face, and was well dressed. 

After we had taken leave, he feasted his attendants and the spectatorswith salt-fish and rice. He departed about 2 P. M. The procession was asfollows, both going and returning--

A large, black, shaggy dog led by a chain. 

A drum and drummer; a gong with a melodious sound; a clarionet played byan old and accomplished musician, rivalling in its strains that beautifulinstrument the bagpipe; a man bearing a wooden painted slab on a pole, onthis was an inscription; a banner looking like a composition of rags; awhite flaglet; fifteen matchlockmen; fifteen bowmen; the Dompa ofRoongdong; five horses and one mule led. 

The household; Natchees; guitar; sundries. Personal attendants, lookinglike yeomen of the guard in red cloth dresses, variegated with yellow;the Rajah wearing a Chinese copper hat. 

Lastly, the priests, of whom there were about six. 

These were the best clothed and best mounted, and evinced satisfactorytokens of being corporeally well off. Their dress consisted of a sombrejacket with no sleeves, with either a yellow or red silk back, over thisis a sombre scarf. They are great beggars, and the headman was wellpleased with a present of four rupees. In return, he gave P. Two, B. Andmyself each one paper of salt, similar to those given to the lookers-on. 

The ponies were all poor, excepting two or three of the Rajah's own, which were handsomely equipped; these had their tails raised on end, exactly like hobby-horses. In addition to this, each was supplied withsupernumerary yak tails, one on either side. 

The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, atleast were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with anenormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of apitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on thehead when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back whileresting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for someway up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noisewere predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be, had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. Thedancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the handsand forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous. 

A peculiar kind of spirit called _Chonghoons_ is in great requisition:this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with asmall matter of malt in it. 

Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymariaovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacksand pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hotweather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermostpair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably presentthe normal form of foliation. _Adoee_ fish {227} found in the Monass. 

Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seenhere. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of someimportance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. TheRajah's house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle withan elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumultsstill prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: thata new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did notwish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come sofar, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place. 

_February 5th_. --Left: descended immediately from the town to thebridge over the Monass. The descent is steep but winding, the face ofthe hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we passed a smallfield of Cajanus, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is asuspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in squarelinks; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sidesbeing of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased bythe bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, andabout thirty above the Monass. 

The Monass is 1, 300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banksbeing about eighty yards apart, but this space is not generally filledwith water. Its violence is extreme. 

We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its beduntil we ascended nearly 1, 000 feet. We continued at this elevationuntil we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The wholemarch was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Monass was insight nearly the whole distance. Passed two villages, both small, one onthe right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetationoccurred except that we came upon pines, P. Longifolia about a mile and ahalf from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think thisis different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra, Desmodium, Buddleia sp. , were the only plants of a novel nature thatoccurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous grasses, very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on highhills to the east. 

[Gradient Benka to Nulka: g229. Jpg]

CHAPTER XII. 

_Continuation of the journey in Bootan_. 

The following table affords the result of observations made with the viewto determine the relation between temperature and altitude, in theseparts. 

 Difference of Difference of Value in height of Temperature Elevation 1 degrees of Temperature

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr. 1, 222 feet 94 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 406 = 01-5/10

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1, 110 = 85-5

Khumna and Nulka, 16 = 1, 516 = 89-3

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 816 = 90-6

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2, 332 = 89-9 ---------- 6)550-8 ----------Mean value of 1 degrees of Fahr. As indicated on the barometer 91-8

Second series of observation

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr. 1, 193-4 feet 91-8 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 367-2 = 91-8

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1, 178-1 = 90-6

Khumna and Nulka, 17 = 1, 557-0 = 91-10

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 826-2 = 91-8

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2, 386-8 = 91-8 ---------- 6)549-8 ---------- 91-6

The Monass is called Goongree by the Booteas; its bed is very muchinclined, and tranquil pools are of rare occurrence: it is not fordablein any place, although many of the rapids are not very deep. Thesingular bridge is said to be of Chinese construction, and that it servesthe purpose of a chief thoroughfare, is a proof of the extremely smallpopulation of the country. 

Onions grow at Nulka, plantains, sugarcane, tobacco. 

Bheirs are common. Weeping cypress occurs, but stunted. 

The entrance to this village on the north-side, is through a squarebuilding, the ceiling of which is painted, and the walls decorated withfigures of deities, white and red. 

[Koollong Bridge: p230. Jpg]

_February 6th_. --We descended immediately to the Monass, keeping alongits banks throughout the greater part of the march; rising however, overone or two spurs that dip into it. 

This river varies a good deal in width, its bed, however, is generallyconfined, and the stream fierce; occasionally, however it spreads out andbecomes here and there more placid. We continued along its banks, crossing one or two small streams until 12 o'clock, when we reached alarge torrent, the Koollong, up which we proceeded three or four hundredyards, but at some height above its bed. We crossed this by a woodenbridge of similar construction with that over the Deo Panee, and the ideaof which is ingenious. It is nearly fifty yards wide, and about twentyabove the torrent. It is in a bad state, and unprovided with railingsthroughout the central level part. The houses into which the inclinedsupporting beams are fixed are strong, and built on rock. The fasteningsare altogether of cane, and the whole presenting the appearance given inthe annexed drawing. 

Hence we ascended a black, rocky, burnt-up mountain until we reachedKhumna, the ascent amounted to nearly 2, 000 feet, and occupied more thanan hour. 

But little of interest occurred, in fact I never saw a more barrencountry. We passed a small village of two or three houses, and two goodpatches of rice cultivation, one just below Nulka, one at Ghoomkhume, thesmall village just alluded to. 

Pinus longifolia descends nearly to the bed of the Monass, which belowNulka is about 2, 200 feet above the level of the sea. Along this Inoticed Hiraea, Eugenia, Vitis, Jasminum, Paederia foetida, Ficus, Loranthus, Scurrula, Desmodium, Aerides, Vanda, Flacourtia, Kalanchoe, Leguminosa, _Vanillidora of Solani mookh_, Ceanothus, Bergera, Dischidia bengalensis, Leguminous trees, Euphorbia, Bassia, Cheilanthesof Brahmakoond common, Coccoloba cyanea. In rice khets at Ghoomkurrah, Ifound Lemna, Cardamine, Rumex of Khejumpa, Cirsium decurrens, Gnaphalia, Datura, Simool in flowers; Spathoidea, Oxalis coriculata, Cannabis, Verbesina. 

I observed water-ouzels, bucco, water-wagtails, bulbuls, ordinary andyellow-rumped. 

[Gradient Nulka to Khumna: g232. Jpg]

Passed cotton cultivation in two places, one close to the Monass, and oneto the Koollong, both equally bad, and observed Begonia edule, which theycall Sheemptsee, and which they eat. 

The road to-day was generally good, overhanging in one place the Monassat a height of forty yards above, and below scarped precipices. The roadhere was constructed or supported artificially. Distance six miles. 

_February 7th_. --To Phoollong. Left at 9. 5 A. M. , and immediatelycommenced ascending. The ascent was at first steep, then gradually woundround the Khumna mountain, which was most barren throughout. The ascentcontinued but very gradually until we came near Phoollong, to which wedescended, and then ascended about 1, 000 feet. About half-way, and whenwe had ascended perhaps 1, 000 feet, we came on new vegetation, oaks, Rhododendra, etc. As before, and this continued improving in densenessuntil we reached the village. The distance is five miles, ascent about1, 500 feet, but so gradual, that one would not imagine it more than 800feet. At Khumna, I noticed Pinus longifolia, Pyrus malus, Achyranthesdense, Cirrus, Urtica urens, tobacco, Musa, Datura, Artemisia major. Hogsare fed here in large circular platters made of stone scooped out. 

Commencing the ascent, I observed Ficus cordata of Bhamru, Rhus pendula, Indigofera _elatior_, Conaria, Pteris aquilina, Cerasus commenced at5, 000 feet. Then Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia minor, Conyza laculia, Rubus deltifolius, Labiata Sudyensis, Acanth. Caerulescens. 

Quercus robur commenced at about 5, 200 feet, but stunted Flemingiasecunda, then Gaultheria arborea, Gnaphalium nivea. 

Here there was a high ridge to the right, crowned with a wood of Q. Robur, all the leaves of which had fallen. Myrica, Rhododendron, Jubrung, Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Cnicus, Clematis cana, Polygonum rheoides. At a village here, which contained ten houses, observed Cupressus pendula, Citrus, wheat, Bambusa, then Juncus. Primulaof the Khasya hills. Q. Robur abundant, Composita penduliflora, Sauraujahispida, Equisetum, Rubus caesius, Alnus of Thumathaya, Elaeagnusspinosus, E. Macrophyllus 5, 300 feet: Plantago, Coriaria, Erythrina, Rhusacidum, Cerastium coenum, Dipsacus, Viburnum microphyllum, Rubiacordifolia, Barleria, Tetranthera oleosa, Hedera, Gentiana, Myrsine, Blasia, Fleshy urticea, Q. Robur, Gordonia, Adamia, Neckerajungermannoides and laeta, Primula in abundance, Acorus, Calamus, Scirpuskysoor of Churra, Gram. Latifolia, Andropogonoides of Suniassa. 

Coming on a well-wooded ravine close to Phoollong, the first I have seensince leaving Balphai, found Quercus 2, Castanea, Gordonia, Spiraeadecomposita, and S. Bella, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Thalictrum, Quercus, Curculigo, Viburnum caerulescens, Indigofera elatior, Gnaphalium niveum, Sempervivum on rocks, Panicum eleusinoides, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Swertiamajor, Alnus as before, Rubus moluccanus, Salix lanata, Primula Simsii, Phlomoides, Orthodon. 

Throughout the march we observed many detached houses on the mountainsforming the right bank of the Koollong, and much cultivation, all of theterrace sort. Passed one village beneath us about 700 feet, containingtwelve houses, and the one mentioned above; as usual, ruined housesoccur. 

Cattle furnished with litters of leaves; a curious low was heard, likethat of an elephant. 

Booteas work their own cotton, much of which is cultivated along therivers at low elevations. 

Higher land, certainly 11 to 12, 000 feet high, was visible to the northside: on this a good deal of snow was visible. 

[Gradient Khumna to Phoollong: g235. Jpg}

_February 8th_. --Towards the morning it commenced to rain; snow hasfallen on both sides the Koollong: it has fallen on the road we came byyesterday, and on the hills above to within 200 feet of us, or in someplaces to the level of this. Exemption in favour of this place is to beattributed to local causes. The trees in the neighbourhood arecompletely covered with it, and it is said to have fallen here twiceduring the night, The Bootea houses are ill calculated for rain, they leak all around asindeed might be expected, from the nature of the roofs, which consist ofboards, kept _in situ_ by stones. It would be curious to ascertain thetemperature under which snow does not fall, and if possible thetemperature here and among the snow. In the morning, sleet with a fewflakes of snow fell also, but only occasionally. 

Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and steadily too: it commencedslightly: as the cold increased it ceased to melt on reaching the ground, and at length all around was a sheet of white. The variations of thethermometer were considerable and frequent, the wind blowing prettysteadily from the south-east. 

At 10 A. M. 37 degrees Snow commencing. At 10. 5 A. M. 36 degrees South-east wind. At 10. 75 A. M. 40 degrees Wind from the north, snow rather heavy. At 11. 75 A. M. 37 degrees South-east. At 12 Noon 35 degrees ditto. At 12. 5 P. M. 36 degrees ditto. At 2. 5 P. M. 37 degrees ditto. At 4 P. M. 39 degrees ditto. At 6 P. M. 37 degrees ditto. At 9 P. M. 38 degrees ditto. 

Fine moonlight night. View to the north beautiful; every thing silveredwith snow; the deep and black ravine of the Koollong is particularlyconspicuous, and on some cultivated spots the pendulous cypress with itssombre head and branches covered with snow, was also remarkable, altogether a beautiful scene. Larch-like firs were visible 500 feet overthe road leading to this from Khumna. 

_February 9th_. --Fine sunny morning: thermometer at 7 A. M. 35 degrees:at 8 A. M. 42 degrees. Hills around covered with snow. High ridge tosouth plainly visible, a good deal of snow visible. Went out at noonover to the south-east, in which direction a pine wood was visible; thisI ascertained to consist of Pinus or Abies pendula, which has much thehabit of a Larch. The altitude of this above Phoollong is certainly1, 000 feet; snow covered the ground in all sheltered spots. The woodshere are formed chiefly of Q. Robur, Q. Ilecifolia also occurs here andthere, Gordonia, Cerasus, Rhododendron minus. 

Mosses and Jungermanniae abound, and were in high perfection owing tobeing saturated with moisture. Polytrichum, Neckera, Brachymenium, Dicranum, Weissiae, Fissidens, Hypnum, Didymodon, Diastoma, Orthodon, were found in perfection. The only new plants were a Campanula and aChimaphila, which last was found at 7, 000 feet. Berberis asiaticascarcely occurs below 6, 000 feet, Hedera. The birds seen were the jay, barbet, red-and-black-headed, variegated short-wing, large ditto ofKhegumpa, orange-breasted Trochilus, brown Fringilla, green woodpecker, black pheasant, and small squirrel of Assam was also found. 

From the fir wood, Tassyassee was distinctly visible, bearing nearly duesouth, distance 10 or 12 miles. Koollong was also seen: all the highground between that and Bulphai was covered with snow. The high range tothe south is, I think, the same as that which runs up behind from thepagoda above Bulphai. 

A few plants of the Assam Indigo, Ruellia indigofera, are kept here, andpreserved with care, but stunted and obviously unsuited to the climate. Montario, our taxidermist, says that it is the fourth plant he knows fromwhich indigo is procured. First, Indigofera--Second, the custard apple, _shereefa_--Third, a climbing plant used in Java, etc. Probably Marsdeniatinctoria--Fourth, --?

_February 10th_. --Fine weather: thermometer at 7 A. M. 40 degrees. Started at 9 A. M. , and reached Tassyassee at 3 P. M. ; the distance beingnine miles. We continued throughout nearly at the same elevation, rounding the hill on which Koollong is placed. About three miles fromthis we descended about 500 feet to a nullah, which we crossed over bymeans of planks, thence we ascended about the same height, and continuedat nearly our former level until we descended to the Koollong, which wecrossed by the usual form of wooden bridge. Thence we ascended 400 feetto the village, which is chiefly constituted by the Rajah's house, a verylarge edifice. The Koollong is still a considerable stream, but appearsto be fordable, at least in the present season. 

The vegetation continued the same almost throughout. In ascending fromthe nullah above mentioned, we came on plenty of Pinus longifolia, and ongetting still nearer Tassyassee the Abies pendula became more and morecommon, until it forms on the opposite bank of the Koollong oppositethis, a large wood; Pinus longifolia disappearing. The hills continueopenly wooded, the woods consisting of oaks, chiefly Q. Robur andRhododendrons. In the ravines which are thickly wooded, oaks, chesnuts, Cerasus, Rhododendron arborea, mosses; Panax two or three species, amongwhich is a new one, _P_. _aesculifolia_, arbor parva armati, foliis 7digitatis, paniculis nutantibus. Hydrangea, Viburnum caerulescens, andMicrophyllum, Galium, Ferns abundant, Bucklandia likewise occurred hereand there! Tetranthera, Valeriana, Scabiosa, Conaria, Holcus elegans. 

In the broken ground before reaching this, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Primula minor, in crevices of rocks. In some places Erythrina was verycommon, Gentiana, Dipsacus, Sedum and Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Saccharum aristatum, Salix lanata, Woodwardia, Primula minor, which growsin shade on the Khasya hills, is found here in sunny wet places. Thescenery in some places is very romantic, and occasionally grand; thevalley of the Koollong being closed far to the north by a high ridge andbeautiful peaks, all heavily snowed. The Rajah's house is visible from aconsiderable distance. As we approached, some parts were rugged andbold. Water abundant throughout. 

[Gradient Phoollong to Tassangsee: g239. Jpg]

_February 11th_. --Went out at 1 P. M. ; descending to, and crossed theKoollong, then ascending along its banks for about a mile. 

The bridge over this is about thirty yards wide, abutting from two housesof ordinary structure, built on solid rocks: the river is underneath thebridge apparently of great depth; above it is a succession of rapids, itis even at this, the driest season, a considerable river. The path leadsin a winding direction either over rice cultivation or on precipitousbanks. I noticed Berberis asiatica, pinnata, a Pomacea spinosa, foliisspathulatis, Stauntonia latifolia, Hedera, Gaultheria two or three, Thebaudiaceae, Artemisia major, Erythrina, Primula Stuartii in abundance, Juncus, Alnus, Myrsina, Prunella in grassy spots, Rumex of Khegumpa, Daphne papyracae, Peperomia quadrifolium, Spiraea bella, Viola, Ophiopogon linearifol. , Hypericum, Smilax, Elaeagnus, Conaria, Loniceravillosa, Epilobium sericeum, a common plant in all watery places, Cardamina Swertia, Viburnum microphyllum. Rhododendrum arborea andminor, Leucas ciliata, Thistles, Pteris aquilina, Neckerae, Osbeckiacapitata of Churra, Oaks, Catharinea, Xyris, Gordonia, Fragaria, Potentilla two, Festucoidea, Cupressus pendula. 

The greatest acquisitions were a beautiful pink farinaceous ascapousPrimula, and a new genus of Hamamelideae. This plant I have long known, and called _Betula corylifolia_, as I had only seen it in fruit, andnot examined it; it is found on the Khasya hills at elevations of between4, 000 and 6, 000 feet. It will be worth dedicating it to somedistinguished geologist, thereby associating his name with that ofBucklandia and Sedgwickii. 

No fly-fishing is to be had in this stream, nor indeed in any at suchelevations. The Adoee is found, but always keeps at the bottom, thestructure of its mouth pointing out its grovelling habits. The Bookhardoes not, I think, ascend more than 2, 500 feet. Water-ouzels, white-fronted Sylvia occur. Observed for the first time the religiousvertical revolving cylinders, these revolve by the action of water, whichruns on the cogs of the wheel by means of hollowed out trunks of trees. Flour mills are common here, the grindstone revolves on another by meansof vertical spokes, which are set in motion by a horizontal wheel, andmoved by a stream let on it in the same way. 

Funaria heygrometrina abounds in the larch wood here. 

This is a very cold place, although 550 feet below Phoollong: it is muchcolder than that place: thermometer at 7 A. M. 34 degrees. 

Snow still remains on the height around; heavy snow on the lofty ridge tothe north; strong south-east winds prevail here. 

[Tassgong from the Koollong: p241. Jpg]

_February 12th_. --Tassyassy, which is also called Tassangsee, is asmall place apparently consisting of one large house, belonging to theSoobah, and some religious edifices, the other houses belonging to it arescattered about among the adjoining cultivation. The Soobah we have justlearnt is absent at Tongsa, so we have no opportunity of comparing hisrank with that of the Tassgong man. His house is however, much larger;it is situated on a promontory formed by the debouching of a considerablesized torrent into the Koollong. The bridge is at the foot of this hill, which is about 400 feet high: the house is accessible to the north andwest only. Half-way up a high hill to the north-west is a fort! andbetween the foot of this hill and the Rajah's house there is a wall witha tower at the north-west end, and a house at the south-east. In theafternoon the weather threatened snow, but it ended in very slight rain. 

_February 13th_. --Thermometer at 7 A. M. 33 degrees: at 9 P. M. 31degrees: cloudy. Observed Conyza nivea, Composita penduliflora, Agrimonia, Stemodia grandiflora, a species of Alopecurus in inundatedrice fields, Fragaria, in the wood, Arenaria, Gymnostomum on theterraces. An Arabis in cornfields with a Viola, probably V. Patrinia, Gaultheria deflexa and Gerardia of Churra. The fir woods arecomparatively bare of mosses and lichens. Shot an Alauda, a Fringilla, and a curious climber with the tail of a woodpecker, at least so far asregards the pointing of the feathers, plumage of Yunx, and beak ofCerthia. 

Fine cypresses were seen opposite Tassangsee. 

_February 14th_. --Left Tassangsee, diverging from the Koollong at thatplace, and following the nullah, which falls into that river below theSoobah's house. The march was a generally, continued, gradual ascent; wecrossed two considerable streams by means of rude wooden bridges, and thewhole march was a wet splashy one, owing to the abundance of water. Snowbecame plentiful towards the latter end. The direction was west, thedistance about seven miles. We passed two or three deserted villages. 

We commenced ascending through woods of stunted oaks, Rhododendrons, Gaultheria arborea. The chief under-shrubs being Daphne papyracae, Gaultheria fruticosa, Primula Stuartii, Lycopodium of Surureem, Thibaudiamyrtifolia continue, the Alnus of Beesa occurred plentifully along thebed of the nullah. Spiraea decomposita, Valeriana simplicifolia, Conaria, Scabiosa, Fragaria, Potentilla, Geranium, Artemisia major, Spiraea bella, Hedera, Viburnum caerulescens, Q. Robur, Crawfurdia speciosa alsooccurred. 

Ascending, the oaks and Rhododendrons became more developed the latterbeing the smaller species, Bambusa microphylla, Gordonia, Sphoeropteris, Antrophyum trichomanes, Oxalis major! commenced. Larches on the oppositeside, Saccharum aristatum, Gillenioides, Gleichenia major, Hemiphragma, Abies Brunonis commence. 

At 6, 500 feet Smilax ruscoides, Senecio scandens, Lilium giganteum. TheRhododendrons here are large, forming with oaks, open woods, mosses andlichens, very abundant. Here we came on snow, with it commenced Euryaacuminata, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Rhododendron fruticosa on ruins, Pyrus malus, Dipsacus. 

At 6, 800 feet, Q. Ilecifolia, Q. Glauca, Dalibarda, Bambusa very common, Sphagnum abundant, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Quercus ilecifolia largerand more common at 7, 000 feet, Gaultheria nummulariodes very abundant, Daltonia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Gaultheria flexuosa, Thibaudia acida, Tetranthera nuda, Lycopodium of Surureem, Primula Stuartii, Hyperici sp. , also _H_. _moflongensis_, are found up to 7, 400 feet, with Hemiphragma, Elaeagnus spinosus, microphyllum, Juncus, Alnus of Beesa, Saccharumaristatum. 

The village is a ruined one apparently, and never contained more thanfour or five houses, situated on an open spot, surrounded by woods. Thisspot is covered with sward, a fine Q. Ilecifolia occurs about the centreof the village. Its altitude is 7, 983 feet. 

The vegetation is the same, Abies pendula, Oaks, Rhododendron formosa, majus, the other has disappeared, Bambusa microphylla, Thibaudia acida, Primula Stuartii, Juncus. 

[Gradient Tassangsee to Sanah: g243. Jpg]

_February 15th_. --We started very early; the coolies were all off by6. 5 A. M. Our march was first over undulating ground, either sward orthrough green lanes. We then commenced ascending a steep hill visiblefrom Sanah, the face of which was covered with sward; at the top of this, snow lay rather thick, especially in the woods. The ascent continued, soon becoming very steep, snow laying heavily on the path, until wereached the summit of the second ridge; thence we descended a little, soon ascending again very steeply until we surmounted the highest ridge. The descent from this was at first most steep, the path running in zig-zags, and being in many places very difficult. About 1, 000 feet below, we came on sward, with wood on the right, along which we descended, diverging subsequently through a thick wood, until we reached swardagain. Here the coolies who had come up had halted, refusing to go on, as it was already dusk. Learning that Pemberton and B. Had gone on, Ihurried on likewise, expecting that the coolies would follow, andcontinued along the swardy ridge, the path running occasionally betweenpatches of wood, the descent being gradual; the path then struck off intowood, and the descent became rapid. I continued onward, until it wasquite dark, and finding it impossible to proceed, and meeting with nosigns of B. And P. , I determined on returning. I reached the cooliesabout eight, covered with mud, the path in the wood being very difficultand excessively slippery. I had nothing but broken crusts to eat; Iprocured some sherry however, and my bedding being up, I was glad to takeshelter for the night under the trees. Next morning on overtaking P. AndB. , I found that they had remained all night in the wood without anything to eat, and without bedding, and that no habitation was near. Wereached the village about 9. 5 on the 16th, fatigued and dispirited. Nothing was at hand, and we had no meal until 5 P. M. Except some tea, andan egg or two. 

Many of the coolies came up late on the 16th, and some have not yetarrived (17th. ) The distance was fifteen miles, to the halting placeabout twelve. The amount of ascent about 4, 500 feet, and descent 6, 100feet, the road being difficult and very slippery: snow was heavythroughout, and the elevations between 9 and 12, 400 feet; icicles werefrequent. The trees were all covered with frost, and the aspect waswintry in the extreme; luckily there was no wind, and no snow fell. Thesummit of the ridge was 12, 477 feet high. No views were obtainedthroughout the 15th and 16th; the weather being cloudy and verydisagreeable. No bad effects were experienced from the rarefaction ofthe air; we all suffered of course from colds owing to exposure at night, at an elevation of nearly 9, 500 feet; the servants bore it tolerablywell. 

At Sanah, the altitude of which is 7, 983 feet, (Pemb. ) I observed Quercusilecifolia, on it Neckerae, Anhymenium, Senecio scandens, Rhododendronarboreum, majus, Juncus effusus, Swertia, Pendulous lichens, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Primula Stuartii, Berberis asiatica, Bambusamicrophylla, Lycopodium of Surureem, Orthotrichum!

At 8, 000 feet, Smilax ruscoideus, Senecio scandens, woods of oak andRhododendrons, the ground and the trees covered with mosses. Gnaphalium, Daphne papyrif. , Mespilus microphyllus! Gaultheria nummularioides, Spiraeagillenioides, and S. Bella, Hypericum, Gnaphalium lanceolatum, trivenum, Sambucus! but withered, Tetranthera nuda of Bulphai, Abies Brunonis whichis probably a Podocarpus. 

At 8, 300 feet, Tussilaginoides of Churra, Primula Stuartii common onswards with Swertiae, etc. As before, Funaria and Weissia Templetoniacommon, Sphaeropterus! Quercus ilecifolia, Abies pendula, Rhododendronarboreum, majus! Dalibarda, Rubus, Ilex dipyrena! Rhododendron undulatum!

At 8, 400 feet, the road running along, and above a ravine, rocky groundto the right, Eurya acuminata! Composita penduliflora. Thibaudiarotundifolia, and in a swampy sward a small dwarfed very narrow-leavedbamboo, Primula Stuartii, Gnaphalium densiflorum, Swertiamonocotyledonea, Prunella in the woods, Salix lanata, and Panaxrhododendrifolia. 

Just above this, 8, 500 feet, the first Abies cedroides appeared, soonbecoming very common, and extending up to 9, 500 feet, its habit is likethat of a cedar, and it is a tall handsome tree, Rubia* cordifolia!Geranium scandens, Baptisioides. 

Crossing a nullah, we commenced a steep ascent, Thibaudacae rotundifolia, Abies cedroides, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Crawfurdia speciosa, Andropogon, Gaultheria nummulacifol. Ilex, Epibolium Vaccinium cyaneum! Here asward commenced with vegetation as before, the summit of this ascent was9, 050 feet. Here Ilex, Daphne papyracae, Rhododendron, Scleria, Lomariaof Khegumpa! Primula pulcherrima! Spiraea bella, Gnaphalium trivenium, Rubus moluccanus, Thibaudia, Ericinea orbiculens, Spiraea decomposita, Gaultheria, nummulariod. , Scutellaria prunella, Gaultheria flexuosa, Scandent composita, Cerastium bacciferum. The trees covered with mosses, Neckerae, Dicranum, Daltoniae, Abies pendula ceased, its limits visiblebelow. Hence the ascent was gradual at first: snow became heavy at 9, 100feet. Hemiphragma, Rhododendron abundant. 

At 9, 500 feet, much the same vegetation, Abies densa commenced, cedroidesceased. Woods entirely of A. Densa, with a small baccate-like deciduousleaved tree. Hydrangea! Spiraeacea! Urticeae?! Pedicularis elatior. 

At 10, 000 feet, some trees all covered with frost; snow very heavy, quitecrisp, Juncus niveus, Cerastium inflatum! bamboos, other plants of 9, 500feet, continue. Old Cretins!

At 11, 270 feet, thermometer 39 degrees, the same trees, scarcely anything but Abies, Arenoid, Dicranum macrocarpus, Orthotrichum, Lichenpendulum atratum. 

Thence we descended a little, soon to re-ascend. 

At the same elevation Parnassia, Epilobium monus, Gnaphalium densiflor. , Vaccinium pumilum, Gentiana, Polygonum(?)

At 11, 000 feet, icicles were common, and snow, very heavy. Woods of someAbies, a species of rose very abundant, a shrub of four feet high; otherplants continue as before. 

From this to the summit the ascent was very steep; Abies continues. Rhododendron(?) very common, with rose, Parnassia, Saxifraga, Compositaarenoid, Gentiana, Polygonum(?), Pedicularis dwarfed, Triticoides, Aroides. Many pines dead as if blasted. Summit nearly bare of trees, which appear confined to slopes, Rhododendron very common, Umbelliferacrassa, figured in Royle, Lilium unifloria. 

At 12, 000 feet, after descent, commenced Hymenophyllum, Xyris on rocks, Pyrus at 11, 500 feet, Rhododendron ellipticum common, summit strewed withrocks, Rhododendron pumilum. 

At 10, 000 feet, the Spilus microphyllus, Polygonum, as well as on ascentGaultheria nummularioid. , swards abounding with Gramen nardoides(?), Dipsacus minor, Epilobium parnassia, Swertia, Umbelliferae, Primulascapigerc. Floribus in globum densum, pedalis, Habenariae herminioid. 

At the halting place 9, 700 feet, Berberis ilecifolia, Daphne papyracae, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Baptisia, Dipsacus, major, Swertim pedicularis, Andropogones, Ilex dipyrena, Rumex of Khegumpa, Betula, Euonymus cornets, Abies cedroides, and Brunonis, Geranium scandens, Pyrus, Hypericummoflongensis, Hemiphragma, Mespilus microphyllus, Panax rhododendrifol. , Rhododendron obovatum. 

At 9, 500 feet, Rhododendron arborea, majus, Abies cupressoides, Gaultheria nummularioides flexuosa, Thibaudiacea rotundifolia, PrimulaStuartii, stunted juncus. 

At 9, 000 feet, Q. Ilecifolia, Rhododendron undulatum, Primulapulcherrima, Tetranthera nuda, Chimaphiliae! Andropogons, Rhododendronarbor, majus, common, which varies much in size of leaves, Dalibarda, Smilax ruscoideus. 

At 8, 500 feet, Berberis pinnata, asiatica, Buddlaea purpurea; Euryaacuminata. 

At 8, 000 feet, Gnaphalium trivenium, Baptisia, Spiraea, (Gillenioid)bella, Artemisia major. 7, 500 feet, Rhododend. Minus arborea, Leucasciliata, and woods of Q. Robur, as usual deciduous. 

[Gradient Sanah to Linge: g248. Jpg]

All the plants above 10, 500 feet, had perished, not a single one beingfound in flower. The descent was so hurried, that it was impossible tonote down more plants; and the same applies to the descent to this fromthe halting place. Starvation being to be added to discomfort. 

Of Rhododendrons, the species observed, may be characterized as follows:--

 _Floribus in racemis umbelliformibus_. 

1. R. _arboreum_, arboreum, foliis oblongo obovatis, subtus argenteis. 

2. R. _ferrugineum_, arboreum, foliis obovatis, supra rugosis, subtusferrugineis. --No. 654. 

3. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis oblongis, subtus ferruginealepidotis. --No. 652. 

4. R. _ellipticum_, fruticosum, foliis ellipticis. --No. 653. 

5. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus glaucusreticulatis. --No. 659. 

6. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis lanceolato oblongis, sub-obovatis, subtuspunctatis. --No. 655. 

7. R. _undulatum_, fruticosum, foliis elongati lanceolatis, undulatissubtus reticulatis. --No. 656. 

 _Floribus solitariis_. 

8. R. _microphyllum_, fruticosum, lotum ferrugineo lepidotum, foliislanceolatis parvis. 

_February 17th_. --Snow has fallen during the night all around, but notwithin 1, 000 feet of us: this will make the snow line here about 7, 300feet, the village being 6, 335 _supra marem_. Mildness of climate wouldappear to be indicated by the abundance of rice cultivation round thisplace, chiefly, however, about 1, 000 feet below. In every directionranges of 9 to 12, 000 feet are visible: villages are very common, especially so in a hollow on the western side of the ravine of theKooree, in which I counted sixteen or eighteen; one containing betweenthirty and forty houses. The space alluded to is one sheet ofcultivation, chiefly rice and wheat. Linge itself is an ordinarily sizedvillage, containing about twelve houses. The wooded tracts cease for themost part, about 1, 000 feet above this. The face of the country, whereuncultivated, being clothed with harsh Andropogoneous grasses, Salixpendula, Thuja pendula, Pyrus malus, Erythrina, Quercus, Juncus effusus, Porana of Churra, Plantago, Barleria, Polygonium rheoides, Stellariamedia, Rubus deltifoliis, Cnicus, Rhodod. Arboreum minus, but rare, Smithea occurs also. 

_February 18th_. --Our march commenced by a steep descent on the southface of the hill, the coolies proceeding by a more direct one to thenorth, but which was said to be difficult. We continued descending in awesterly direction, until we came in sight of the Kooree river whichflows along the ravine, and which is a large stream, one-third less thanthe Monass. We then turned to the north following the river, the pathrunning up, about 800 feet above it. We then came to another ravine, anddescended to the torrent, which we crossed by a rude wooden bridge: thenfollowed again the Kooree, to the bed of which we descended, and alongwhich we continued for some time. We then ascended where the banks wereof such a nature as not to allow a path, descending again here and there. Then we came on the Khoomun, a large torrent, which we crossed by awooden bridge about 100 yards above its bed; re-descended to the Kooree, reached its bridge; and thence descending rather steeply, and for aboutone and a half mile to Ling-Ling, or Lengloon, which is plainly visiblefrom the bridge over the Kooree. 

After turning to the north along the Kooree, and indeed after passing thecultivation below Linge, which chiefly occupies a sort of plateau, wepassed through a most miserable country, the hills being rocky, nearlydestitute of trees, and chiefly clothed with the usual coarseAndropogoneous grasses, especially lemon-grass, occurred between Lingeand Lengloon. 

At 5, 000 feet, observed Desmodium, Santalacea australasia, Gaultheriaarborea, Indigofera, as before, Clematis cana, Acanthacea caerulescens, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum caerulescens, Oxyspora, Panicum eleusinoides, Anthistiria, Conyza, Ficus cordifoliis of Bhamree, Labiata Suddiensis, Corearia, Rhus pendula, Airoides major, Flemingia secunda and major. 

At 4, 800 feet, Desmodium vestilum, stunted, Q. Robur, Dipsacus, Epilobium, Elaeagnus microphyllus, spinosus. 

At 4, 600 feet, Sedum, Campanula, Osbeckia capitata, Citrus in villages, Emblica, Artemisia minor. 

At 4, 000 feet, Paederia cyanea, lemon-grass, Panax, Terebinthaceus, Pinuslongifolia, here and there, Ficus obliqua, Grislea, Cirsium. 

At the bed of the torrent 4, 000 feet, Bassia. 

Over the Kooree, Euphorbia antiqorum, a sure sign of aridity. Didymocarpea contorta, D. Canescens, which differs from the other inbeing hirsute, Menispermum, Holcus elegans. 

Along its bed, Sedum of Phoollong, Eugenia, Achyranthis, Ingoidesarborea, Aspidium polypodioides, Briedleia obovata; Desmodium of Nulka!Arundo, Buddlaea neemdoides, Jasminum of Benka, Composita, involucrisquamis ciliatis. Rice fields, in these Gnaphalium aureum, Phleoides ofTassangsee, but in full flower, Lysimachia majus, rugosus, Oxaliscomiculata, Hieracioid, Composita, Lactucoid purpureseus, Ammannia, Bidens alba, Drymaria. 

Then along the wooded banks, Wendlandia, _Pomacea_? Mimosa arborea, Camunium, Butea suffruticosa, Pterospermum of Bhamree, Luculia, Ulmus, asbefore, Pinus longifolia, Rottlera, Melica latifolia, young plants of Q. Robur on rocks, along with it Goodyera articulata, Urticoid rhombifolia, carnosa; on rocks up Khoomun, Orthotrichum corcalypta. At the bridgeover this, a Myrtaceous tree and the Simool occur. The plants occurduring the ascent, as in the descent. Water-wagtails, blackbirds, tomtits, were observed, as also white-pated and white-rumped water-chats. 

_February 19th_. --Ling-Ling or Lengloon. 

_February 20th_. --To-day we visited the Soobah, who is a young man, certainly not more than twenty years old, with a good humouredcountenance. The meeting was cordial but unattended with any state, andjudging from appearances only, this Soobah is inferior to the others wehave seen, and especially to him of Tassgong. No armed men were present, and the whole bystanders scarcely amounted to 100. It was agreed that weremain here until the baggage, now in the rear, arrives. Tonsa is, wehear, only four or five days journey from this. 

The meeting took place in an open plot of ground below the Soobah's houseand on the skirts of the village, the ground was matted and a spaceenclosed with mats: we sat in the open air; the Soobah under a silkencanopy. Altogether he seemed a person of no pretensions, crowds, speaking comparatively, of priests attended as usual, they were theslickest looking of the whole, and the greatest beggars. A hideous partyof _nachnees_ were in attendance, and ready to perform any more pleasingduties they might be required; they were however so ugly, that not muchself-denial was required in declining their offers. They were dressed inred, with abundance of cumbrous silver ornaments, and dirty leggings; onewas additionally ornamented with incipient goitre. 

Sugarcane (but stunted), almonds, or peach, oranges, castor-oil, datura, pear, simool, may be found here. Oranges are poor enough, the pear nobetter. Pinus longifolia, Cupressus pendula, are almost the only trees:the hills being barren, covered with coarse grasses. 

_February 23rd_. --Marched to Tumashoo: our march commenced with a steepascent, but which may be avoided by going through the village, itcommenced and continued throughout in the direction of Linge, opposite towhich place we found ourselves on our arrival, but on the right bank ofthe river. The highest part reached, before we descended to thisvillage, was 6, 350 feet, or about the height of Linge. The march wasnearly six miles, it was easy, the road being throughout excellent andapparently more frequented than any we had hitherto seen. Generally wemoved along through open Rhododendron woods, frequently very muchstunted, at 6, 000 feet. These were intermixed with Quercus tomentosa. The only spot well wooded, occurred in the ravines, giving exit to smallstreams. 

The first ascent from Leng-Leng, gave the same vegetation, scarcely anytrees being visible. Tradescantia clavijera of Churra on rocks, Galiumof Churra, Santalacea, Desmodium vestilum, Indigofera canescens, Artemisia major and minor, Oxyspora, Luculia, Conaria, Sambucus in wetplaces, Lobelia pyramidalis, Spiraea bella and decomposita, Thalictrummajus, Gaultheria fruticosa, Woodwardia, Saurauja hispida, Rhododendronminus, and lemon-grass, occurred in the order of ascent. 

Turning hence along the ridge at the same elevation, Gaultheria arborea, Quercus tomentosa, Rhododendron minus, Hedychium, Holcus elegans, Leucasciliata. In wet wooded spots Gaultheria duplexa, Bucklandia, Viburnumcaerulescens, Polyg. Rheoides, Erythrina, Gordonia, Porana, Neuropeltisaromatica, Catharinea, Thibaudia myrtifolia, in open massy woods ofRhododendron minus and Quercus tomentosa, Rosa, Cnicus, Pyrus, Gleicheniamajor, Agrimonia occurred at the same elevations. 

From one spot seven villages were visible, on opposite bank of Kooree andbetween Linge and the Khoomun. A few stunted P. Longifolia: one or twoof Abies pendula, occurred 100 feet above the highest point of theformer: at 6, 350 feet, woods of the deciduous Q. Robur, were observable. 

On the descent at 6, 000 feet, Mimosa spinosa, Primula Stuartii, Rhus, Juncus, and others, as before. 

We passed several villages, some containing twenty or thirty houses, andon halting found ourselves towards the edge of the cultivated tractalluded to, as seen from Linge. 

Cattle are here kept in farm yards which are well littered with straw; asin other places they are noosed round the horns: they are fed, while tiedup, on straw of a coarse and unnutritious description, which they do notseem to fancy much. Pigeons abound, but they are of no use as they cannotbe caught; they may help to feed the sparrow-hawks, which are generallyfound about the villages, and which are very bold. 

_February 24th_. --Left at 8 A. M. After the usual trouble about cooliesand ponies. We ascended at first about 1, 000 feet, passing over swardwith woods of P. Longifolia on either side, crossing the ridge through ahollow, we then commenced a steep descent to the west, until we reached awater-course, the elevation of which is about 200 feet below that ofTumashoo. We then struck off, again to ascend, and continued to do sountil we attained 7, 800 feet, from which point we descended gradually atfirst, then abruptly to our _mokan_. The direction was nearly west, thedistance 11 miles, the march pretty easy, as the road was good, and theascent gradual. 

Up to the ravine and indeed throughout, nothing new occurred in thevegetation. The hill up which we ascended to again descend, was bare, covered with the usual coarse grasses, Campanula linearis and C. Cana, foliis undulatis, Desmodium vestilum, Santalacea. 

In the ravine Gordonia, Photinia, Pothos flammea and another species, Maesa, Polygonum rheoides, Ficus of Bhamree, and in the khets Hieraceoid, Gnaphalium aureum, Ajuga, and Veronica occurred. 

Up the first ascent and at about 5, 500 feet, there was a field of peas, in very luxuriant condition. Our road lay through open dry woods ofoaks, either Q. Robur or Q. Tomentosa, principally the latter, Rhododendron minus, and Pinus longifolia preponderated in some places, but few trees of Abies pendula occurred. 

The march was so far interesting as establishing nearly the limits of Q. Robur, Q. Tomentosa and Q. Ilecifolia, which last only commenced, andthen in a small state, at 7, 300 feet, I should say that Q. Tomentosa wasto it the next indication, as well as Q. Glauca. But it must beunderstood that only full grown trees are now considered. Mosses werecommon in the woods on reaching 6 to 7, 000 feet, principally Dicrana, Hypna, Orthotricha, Pendulous lichens frequent; about 7, 000 feet, PrimulaStuartii in its old situations between 6 to 7, 000 feet, Hypericum ofMoflong, 7, 000 feet. 

We crossed several small water-courses, along these, the dry woodsceased, and the usual humid jungle made its appearance; mosses verynumerous. 

[Gradient Longloon to Tumashoo: g254. Jpg]

The above plants continued throughout, after reaching an altitude of6, 000 feet, the woods consisting of oaks and Rhododendrons. 

The route for the most part wound along the course of the Kooree, butconsiderably above, we left this track about 3 P. M. On the river turningto the southward. Linge was in sight nearly the whole day; we have beensix days (including a halt) performing what might with ease be done inone, for there probably is a road in a direct line between this part andthe opposite bank of Kooree. The small-crested finch, and red-beaked andred-legged fare occurred, the former is a noisy bird, inhabiting chieflywoods of Q. Robur, the flock were loth to leave one particular spot, sothat we obtained five specimens: the finch occurred at 7, 800 feet. 

Various temples and walls were passed en route, and a few villages, withone exception of average small size, were visible in various directions. 

_February 25th_. --Our route hence continued for some time at about thesame level, when we descended rather rapidly, until we reached aconsiderable stream, the Oongar, which is crossed by the ordinary woodenbridge; about 200 yards further, it is again crossed by means of a rudebridge, and the remainder of the march is a steep, long, and unmitigatedascent. I reached the tent about 5 P. M. ; we passed one village situatednear the larger bridge, with this exception the country seemeduninhabited: very little cultivation was visible in any direction. 

The vegetation was the same, for the most part, the drier faces of thehills being covered, i. E. At about the level of Oongar, with oaks andRhododendrons, the wet ravines being more densely, and more variouslywooded. On sward about Oongar, I noticed a Pedicularis, Artemisia major, Stellaria angustifolia, Berberis pinnata in woods at the same elevation, Plantago, Crawfurdia speciosa, Rubus deltoideus, Alnus of Beesa, Otochilus, Gordonia, Lilium giganteum, Bucklandia. 

In one spot near this place mosses were very abundant. On one rock Igathered, Weissioides, Orthodon, Pohlia, Brachymenium bryoides, Weissia, Bartramioides, Didymodon, Daphne papyrifera, and Eurya acuminata, thisbeing about the lowest elevation at which I have seen this plant. Incultivated spots Crucifera, Ervum, and at a temple about a mile fromOongar, Cupressus pendula, and a juniper, Arbor parva, of aspect scraggy, trunco laevi, Cannabis, Cerastium canum in cultivated places. The mostcommon oak was Q. Robur. The Jay, larger Brachypodium, which always goesin large flocks, orange-breasted Trochilus and blackbird, were likewiseseen, as well as the brown finch, which was seen feeding on Rhododendronminus. On rocky ground I procured a really fine Acanthus, leaves allflesh-coloured, subscandens, spic. Maximis lanato-ciliatis, tetrastich. On this the black cattle appear to be fed, as large bundles were broughtin at Oongar. In the woody ravines Panax curcasifolia was common, inthese I noticed Cerastium scandens, Elaeagnus, Clematis, Tetrantheroideahabitu, Sedgewickiae! Orthotrichum pumulum! Phlomoides, and in wet spotsare Epilobium. The descent shewed nothing remarkable: towards the nullahI noticed Engelhaardtia, tree fern, and Gaultheria deflexa. Obtained abeautiful woodpecker at 5, 000 feet, with the chesnut-pated lesser tomtit, Yunx, and speckled Brachypodium in woods here; this last has the habitand manners of the crooked bill of Dgin. 

The wood between the two bridges was very pretty and open; the treescovered with mosses. The ascent shewed nothing remarkable until 2, 000feet had been surmounted, the plants forming the vegetation below thiswere Q. Robur, Rhododendron minus in abundance, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gaultheria arborea, Saurauja hispida uncommon, Viburnum caerulescens, Conyza nivea, Oxyspora towards the base with paper plant, and Bambusamicrophylla. About 5, 000 feet, a Daltonia, D. Hypnoides, was found inabundance both on rocks and trees. 

The change takes place about the situation of a spacious open sward; herethe jungle is thick, the trees consisting principally of Q. Glauca, whichis a noble tree, with immense lamellated acorns, Pendulous lichens arehere common, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Berberisasiatica! Hemiphragma, Gaultheria nummulareoides, Panax Rhododendrifol. 

At 7, 500 feet, Rhododendron majus appears, the wood preserving theumbrageous humid aspect, Eurya acuminata, Hydrangea, and about this snowcommenced sparingly, but soon became thick. At 8, 000 feet, Rhododendronundulata, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris. At 9, 000 feet, Rhododendronferrugineum. The evening now became so misty that it was impossible todiscern any thing; in addition, it was snowing: these circumstances addedto fatigue made me press on for the halting place, before coming to whichI passed through heavy snow. 

_Pemee_, where we put up, is a miserable hut, is upwards of 9, 000 feetabove the sea, situated on an open sward, now densely covered with snow, the accommodations being of course very miserable. Icicles of large sizewere seen here; and we had nothing but snow for water. 

_February 26th_. --Leaving this, we commenced a long and at last verysteep ascent, the snow increasing in thickness as we increased ourelevation, the march commenced with undulations, but soon passed off intoan excessively steep ascent, in some parts indeed precipitous. Wecrossed at twelve and a half P. M. The Pass of Rodoola, on which are someslabs, with mystic characters, but even here the ascent did notterminate, but continued, although very gradually for perhaps two milesmore. Before coming to the summit, a small hut is passed. The descentwas at first very rapid, then we proceeded along the side of the mountainfor a long way, at nearly the same level through woods of Abies densa. Onrecommencing the descent, swardy patches commenced, surrounded by firwoods, these increased in frequency. At length we reached extensive firwoods, from whence a valley was visible, percolated by a large stream towhich we descended over open country with beautiful patches of firs, andat length over extensive swards. I reached the village at 5 P. M. , aftera march of nearly nine hours, the direction was west, the distanceeighteen miles. The road was very bad; in one place our ponies escapedwith difficulty, the road having apparently fallen in, and the onlyfooting being afforded by the thickness of the snow: one pony was savedby placing branches under him. The highest portion of the Pass near thepeak was good enough. Snow was heavy on the road, until we descended intothe open fir-wooded country, it became scanty at 9, 500 feet. The day wasgloomy and misty, for a moment, the sun appeared while I stood on thesummit, disclosing deep ravines, one formed by the valley in which we noware, surrounded in every direction by equally high land, as that on whichI stood, and certainly not under 12, 000 feet. Nothing visible but denseforests of firs. The highest point crossed was 12, 035 feet, estimatingthe summit to be 300 feet above the Pass itself, which is so narrow asscarcely to admit of the passage of a loaded mule. 

In the open spot around the hut, Tofieldioid, which continues as high as10, 500 feet, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata species, Conecis, which, as onDhonglaila, continues up to 12, 000 feet, Dipsacus, Prunella, Gaultherianummularioides, Pteris aquilina, stunted, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalium. Nofirs were visible, but the trees were so covered with snow, that I wasnot able to distinguish them. 

At 9, 800 feet, along an open ridge, Spiraea belloides, Buddlaea, B. Purpurasae, Khasyanae affinis, Andropogones, Mespilus microphyllus, Hydrangea, Taxus, Swertia, Gnaphalium, Thibaudia orbicularis commences, continuing up to 10, 500 feet, Brachymenium bryoides, Bambusa very common, forming frequently the chief bulk of the forest, even up to 10, 500 feet, Acer arbuscula foliis palmatum lobatis!! Pyrus arbor magna fol. Obovat. Serratis subtus albus, fructibus cerasi magnitudinum. 

At 10, 000 feet, Composita penduliflora! Hemiphragma, Lobelioides, Brachymenium bryoides, Rhododendron minus ferrugineum, arboreum velarbuscula, Rhododendron obovatum, foliis subtus albus, Rhododendronhispidum, Rosa microphylla, Bambusa, Spiraea of former ascent. 

At 10, 200 feet, Polygonum, Rheum, Hydrangea! Spiraea belloides, Hydrangea, Betuloides. 

At 10, 500 feet, Abies densa, but sparingly, Rhododendron ellipticum, foliis basi cordatis, Hypericum, Rhododendron microphyllum. 

At 11, 000 feet, no firs: nothing almost but Rhododendrons, R. Ellipticum, and R. Ellipticum foliis basi cordatis. 

At 11, 500 feet, Vaccinium, foliis ovatis spinuloso-dentatis, atratusfructex pygmaeus repens. 

Towards the Pass, the face of the mountain became more and more rugged, the vegetation more scanty, consisting of nothing but Rhododendrons. 

At 12, 000 feet, Eriogonum minus, Polygonum, Rheum, Rhodod. Microphyllumand ellipticum foliis basi cordatis. 

About the Pass, Trichostomum, _Xyris_, Abies densa, one small plant, Rosa, Eriogonum minus, Rhododendron microphyllum and ellipticum foliisbasi cordatis. 

On the more level ridge between this Pass and the summit, Rhododendronsstill were most frequent, Triticoides umbellifera of Royle, Eriogonummajus, woods of Abies densa occurred a little below the path, Gentianamaxima, 4-pedalis folliculis bipollicaribus, Lilium uniflorum, Potentillacommon between this and 9, 000 feet, Rosa microphyllum, Juniperus, Epilobium minus of Dhonglaila, Rheum. Large black crow, Pedicularis, Saxifraga, Umbellifera alia, Compositae, Spiraea. 

At the summit, no woody vegetation was visible, except Rhododendrons; thefirs being confined below. 

The descent at first through Rhododendron, then for a long time entirelythrough vast woods of Abies densa, most of the larger trees of this areapparently blasted, it has a tabular form, and very sombre appearance, and can be recognized even at great distances by its black columnar palm-like appearance. 

At 11, 000 feet, Acer sterculiacea, Rosa microphylla, Ribes, which ceasesbelow 10, 000 feet, it is confined to the A. Densa woods. 

At 10, 500 feet, Saxifraga, two species on moist banks, A. Densa woods, small Umbellifera. 

The sward commences at about 10, 000 feet, and is common at 9, 500 feet. Itis clothed principally with the small bamboo noticed in similar placesabove Sanah. Berberis spathulata commences. It is with this sward thata new fir, with a larch-like look, which I call temporarily Abiesspinulosa, commences, and continues down to the nullah, becoming moreabundant as A. Densa becomes less abundant, and finally usurping itsplace entirely. Rhododendron microphyllum continues to 9, 600 feet, atwhich point Baptisoidea commences. 

The vegetation hence to Bhoomlungtung consists entirely of Abiesspinulosa, intermixed with a species very like Abies pendula, thisappears at about 9, 500 feet. The sward consists of small grasses, Juncusniveus, Gnaphalium, Hypericum of Mollong, suffrutex incertus. Juncuseffusus at 9, 000 feet, with Prinsepia utilis. 

The marked indicators of great elevation are A. Densa, Polygonum, Rheum!Eriogona! Rhododendron microphyllum, ellipticum, and ellipticum foliisbasi cordatis, Epilobium, Triticoides, Holcoides, Umbellifera of Royle, Saxifragae, Ribes, Juniperus. 

The most marked peculiarity is the comparative absence of A. Densa on theeast side of the mountain, and its excessive abundance on the west. Thisvalley may be justly called the valley of pines, for in no direction isany forest to be seen but those composed of pines. The change indeed isextraordinary, in other respects as indicated by the presence of a newRosa and Prinsepia utilis. Another peculiarity is the appearance for thefirst time of A. Spinulosa. The range of which is between 8 to 10, 000feet; this is a beautiful tree, and disposed in beautiful groups. Thevalley altogether is a beautiful one, and actually repays one for thetrouble endured in getting access to it. 

The temperature in crossing the ridge was below that on Dhonglaila, andbelow the freezing point at times. No inconvenience was felt by us fromthe elevation, but many of our servants suffered probably as much fromfright as cold. 

_February 27th_. --Halted. 

_February 28th_. --This valley is certainly the prettiest place we haveyet seen, the left bank is particularly level, but neither are of muchbreadth, the hills adjacent present rounded grassy patches, interspersedwith beautiful groves of pines. The level space, as well as the morefavourable sites on the slopes of the hills, are occupied by wheatcultivation, which is carried on in a more workman-like manner, than anyof the previous cultivation I have hitherto seen. The fields areoccasionally surrounded with stone walls, but generally only protectedfrom the inroads of cattle by branches of thorny shrubs strewed on theiredges. They are kept clean, and above all, manure is used: it is howeverdry and of a poor quality, apparently formed of animal and vegetablemoulds. In some of the fields the surface is kept very fine, all stonesand clods being carefully removed and piled up in various parts of thefield, but whether these masses are again strewed over the ground. Theplough is used, and penetrates to about four inches. Hoes and rakes arealso used, but the angle of the handle is much too acute. Radishes aregrown with the wheat: no rice is cultivated here. 

The village Bhoomlungtung, at which we are stationed is on the left bankof a branch of the Bhoomla nullah, a river of some size, but fordable inmost places, its bed being subdivided. It is 8, 668 feet above the sea. The houses are ordinary, but they are surrounded with stone walls. Our's, which is a portion of the Dhumpas or headman's, has a court-yard, surrounded by a stone wall, and the entrance is defended by a stout andlarge door. The natives invariably wear dark clothing, the colour beingonly rivalled by that of their skins, for I never saw dirtier people. TheBhooteas hitherto visited, were quite paragons of cleanliness compared tothose we are now among. Half ruined villages are visible here and there, although otherwise the appearance of the valley is prosperous enough. Thevalley is surrounded on all sides by hills of great altitude, the lowestbeing 10, 500 feet high. Snow is plentiful on the ridges, but it does notremain long below, although falls are frequent. No fish are to be seenin the river, which is otherwise as regards appearance as beautiful atrout stream as one could wish to have. The birds are the commonsparrow, field-fare, red-legged crow, magpie, skylark, a finch whichflies about in large flocks, with a sub-forked tail, raven, red-tailedstonechat, larger tomtit, syras, long-tailed duck, and quail, which ismuch larger than that found in Assam. The woods are composed entirely ofAbies pendula, a few A. Spinulosa occur, intermixed, but the woods of thelatter species are scarcely found below 9, 500 feet. The ridges areclothed with the columnar Abies densa. In thickets a smaller Rosa, Rhododendron ellipticum, foliis basi cordatis, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis subtus argenteis, Rhodod. Gemmis viscosis. Berberis asiatica, Hamamelidea? Bambusa microphyllum, Philadelphus, Thibaudia orbicularis, Mespilus microphyllus, Taxus or Abies Brunonis, Ilex dipyrena, occur. Thesward shews small grasses, all past flower, Hemiphragma, Thymus, Dipsacus, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalia 2, 3, Potentilla. 

The fields have Crucifera Lamium and Verbascum, a late biennial species, Caule simplici, Hemiphragma. 

The marshy spots abound with Juncus effusus, and shew also a Primula outof flower, and a Xyris past flowering. 

Along the bed of the river, Hippophae is the most common plant. Lastly, a few trees occur of Q. Ilecifolia, which assumes a very handsomecharacter, looking much like a Conifera at some distance, one groupoccurs near the village, and a solitary tree or two elsewhere. The otherwoody vegetables are Rosa fructibus hispidis, Cycnium, Pomacea arbuscula, and one or two other deciduous shrubs. The willow tree is also common. 

_March 1st_. --Marched to Byagur, we were told that the march was ashort one, and that we should continue throughout along the Bhoomlungtungriver, which is called Tung-chiew. We did keep along this for about twomiles, when we struck off into the hills passing through a village, wecontinued rising for perhaps 1, 000 feet, when we descended to a smallnullah. Leaving this we commenced an ascent, and a very long one too, and continued to ascend until we surmounted the ridge overlooking theriver, on which Byagur or Iugur is situated. To the place we descended, the march was fourteen miles, direction westerly. Highest groundtraversed about 9, 500 feet high. Road throughout winding round and uphills, through woods of Abies pendula: nothing of interest occurred. Magpies, crows, chatterer feeding on pine cones, common in woods at 9, 000feet. Passed two or three villages, all containing ruined houses. Direction we pursued was that of the Tung-chiew river, until we reachedthe ridge guiding the Byagur river to it: their junction takes place twoor three miles below this place, Cycnium occurred on the road in plenty, also Sarcococea. 

Horseshoe curlew, the same as we shot at Daimara, common in theTung-chiew, along which the chief shrubs are Hippophae and Elaeagnus, particularly in the islets which are not uncommon in its bed. The commonwater wagtail also occurs. 

I find that the root of the common Potentilla is used here, as aboutNunklow, as a substitute for _sooparee_, it is unpleasantly astringent. Observed Rhododendron microphylla on the loftier ground; very high land, 18, 000 feet visible to the south along the course of Tung-chiew, coveredwith heavy snow: Abies pendula is occasionally a beautiful tree, 100 feethigh, and in appearance something like a cedar, the finest occurs at amonastery under a bluff rock, about one and a half mile fromBhoomlungtung on the Tung-chiew; Daphne papyriferae occurred at 9, 000feet. The heaps of earth piled up in the fields before sowing, consistof burnt rubbish, the ashes are subsequently spread out. The manureconsists entirely of vegetables: here I find that the pine leaves arepiled up, and formed into manure by fermentation. 

_March 2nd_. --Byagur, the Soobah's house is about 500 feet above us, and is a huge rambling edifice. We are in a village situated in a rathercapacious valley, percolated by a large river, twice the size of the Tung-chiew, which is crossed by an ordinary bridge, the river runs close tothe hills, which form the left bank, the right is a sort of plain, occupied by wheat cultivation, and which has apparently at a formerperiod, been the bed of the river. In this valley other villages arevisible, but they are small, and nothing indicates either fertility orprosperity. The valley is surrounded on all sides by high mountains, those towards Bhoomlungtung being lowest. To the north-east very highland is visible. The ridge which separates us from Tongse is, in thehighest parts, certainly 12, 000 feet, and covered with snow. The peopleare dirty to an excess. 

Crow, sparrow, Alauda, are the birds here. Saw a fox, an animal of somesize, with a beautiful brush. The botany is poor, the hills are clothedwith the usual grasses, abundance of Abies pendula. The khets or fieldspresent the old Lamium and Crucifera. The only trees are one of Q. Ilecifolia, and one or two of Salix lanata. 

_March 3rd_. --Cycnium is found here, but is put to no use. The cropswhich are now springing up are very poor, the soil being extremely bad, they are irrigated by means of canals, but terraces are not in use, theground being too level, the embankments are much smaller than those usedin rice cultivation. 

The place is bleak in the extreme, and here, as often on the western faceof the Himalaya, at this season a fierce diurnal wind rises directly thesun gets power, which always blows up the ravines or against the streamsdraining these, it dies away towards evening, generally. It is cold inthe extreme, and must check vegetation extremely. Syras, common here, asat Bhoomlungtung. 

The ridge above this which is crossed coming from Bhoomlungtung, is 9, 947feet high, yet no snow was on the ground. The contrast between it andPemee in regard to snow and vegetation is remarkable; there the woodswere thick, luxuriant, and varied, here nothing is to be seen but Abiespendula. I consider this a proof that A. Pendula is a native of placesbelow much snow, and that where snow abounds, it will not be found toextend above 8, 000 feet. The dwarf bamboo of Sanah is common here, covering large patches of ground, Lamium of Bulphai in the vicinity oftemples, and enclosing pagodas. The people here evince great skill infigures, but none in architecture. 

The Soobah's house, a castellated heterogeneous mansion, spread over muchground, the defences on one side reaching nearly to the level of thevalley. The Kumpa dogs are fierce and handsome, with the bark of amastiff, they are not apparently deterred by threats, but rather thecontrary. A woman with dropsy, wrapped in filthy clothes, presentedherself and evinced great anxiety to have her pulse felt, but the dirt ofher clothes was such, that I made excuses. 

Manure for the land consists of pine leaves, etc. Mixed with cow-dung. The cattle are well littered; and grass is here of rather betterdescription: all cattle are however in wretched conditionnotwithstanding, and the cows give very little milk. The houses of thepoorer orders, are unornamented, but those of the better classes arealways ornamented with a belt of red ochre outside. There are no largeboulders in the river here, although it runs with violence. This isowing to the softness or tenacity of the rocks. 

_March 4th_. --Our march commenced with a steep ascent up the ridge, forming the west boundary of the valley, surmounting this we proceeded onfor some distance at about the same level, and thence descended rapidlyto a nullah. We then ascended slightly, and subsequently descended tothe valley, in which the village Jaisa is situated. The distance wasnine miles; the march was pretty, almost entirely through fir woods, three villages were visible in a valley to the left, which is in fact thetermination of the Jaisa one, but beyond the valleys no cultivationwhatever was visible. 

The first part was up a barren grassy slope, after which we entered firwoods, these at first were almost entirely constituted of Abies pendula. 

At 9, 000 feet Chimaphila, Berberis spathulata, Abies pendula, Bambusamicrophylla of Sanah, Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis basi cordatis subtus argenteis, Philadelphus Lycopod. Of Surureem, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Rhododendron viscosum. 

At 9, 300 feet, Abies spinulosa becomes more common, Rosa hispida andmicrophylla! Pinus cedroides commences, Dalibarda, Daphne papyracea, Thymus, Gnaphalia, Mespilus and Berberis, as before, Potentilla. 

At 9, 500 feet, snow lying on the path in sheltered places, Euphorbia, Gaultheria arboreoides, Hypnum rubescens, scolopendrioids, Pterisaquilina, Melianthus, Rosa, frutex erectus ramis hispidissimis, ramulissubglabratis, fructibus pendulis glabris, tubo-ovato, sepalislanceolatis. Salix arbuscula, gemmis rubur glabris, foliis lanceolatissubtus glaucis, amentis faeminies pendulis, Bupleurum, Hydrangea, Spiraeadensa belloides! Prunella, Pinus cedroides common at Potentilla. 

At 9, 700, 9, 800, to 10, 000 feet, Abies densa, a few trees, as usual manyblasted, from lightning confined entirely towards the summit, Acersterculiacea, Aruncus, Thibaudia orbicularis, A. Spinulosa very common, A. Pendula ceases, or at most only stunted plants occur, Mespilusmicrophyllus, Berberis spathulata, Baptisia, these were very common onwest face, which is level enough and open. 

Here also Pedicularis, Bupleurum, stunted Pteris aquilina, Polygonum, Rheum! Avena! Pendulous lichens luxuriant. Along the level tracts, thewoods consisted entirely of Abies spinulosa, a minute Gentiana common onthe sward. 

The descent was steep to the ravine; half-way down A. Pendula commencedto flourish, and towards the ravine it was more common than A. Spinulosa;Rhododendron microphyllum was seen on this face at 9, 500 feet, Verbascumat 9, 200 feet, but most of the plants seen on the east face were notfound on this. Acer sterculiacea, however occurred at 9, 800 feet, otherwise pines were the most prominent feature. 

At the nullah, Dipsacus, Elaeagnus, Salix lanata, Artemisia major, Daphnepapyracea, Rhododendron viscosum, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida, spinus acutissimis, Bambusa of Sanah, Plectranthus a large suffruticoseannual species, common in all the same altitudes, were observed. Thesubsequent descent was through woods of A. Pendula, with a few of A. Spinulosa intermixed. 

The limits of A. Densa, A. Spinulosa and A. Pendula, Melianthus, Acersterculiacea, Thibaudia orbicularis, A. Cedroides, Rosa microphylla, Pedicularis, Hydrangea, Baptisia, Berberis spathulata were welldetermined. They may be expressed as follows: A. Densa, 10 to 13, 000feet, A. Spinulosa, 9 to 10, 500 feet, A. Pendula, 6 to 9, 000 feet, Melanthus, 9, 500 feet, Acer sterculiaceum, 9, 800 to 10, 000 feet, Thibaudia orbicularis, 10, 000 feet, A. Cedroides, 9, 000 to 9, 800 feet, Rosa microphylla, 9, 800 to 13, 000 feet, Pedicularis, 10 to 12, 500 feet, Hydrangea, 4 to 10, 000 feet unless two species are confounded, Baptisia, 9 to 9, 800 feet, Berberis spathulata, 9 to 10, 000 feet. 

_Jaisa_ is a good sized village for Bootan, and the houses are ratherlarge. We were lodged in the castle, a large building, with a capaciousflagged court-yard, surrounded by galleries: we were housed in the grandfloor of the higher portion fronting the gate. A good deal of wheatcultivation occurs around. The village is situated in a small nullah, surrounded on all sides by pine-clad hills. The vegetation is preciselythe same as at Juggur, with the exception of a Ligustrum, which is commonalong the nullah. Larks, red-legged crows and ravens, abound here. 

_March 5th_. --Our march consisted of a progress along levelish groundup the river, occasionally rounding small eminences: we then commencedthe ascent of a ridge, the summit of which we reached about half past-twelve. Snow is common above 9, 000 feet. The descent was steep anduninterrupted from about 2, 000 feet, when we reached a small river. Thence we ascended a little to descend again, we continued over a ravineat nearly the same level, for some time proceeding over undulated ground:on reaching the debouchure of the ravine into a larger one running northand south, we commenced to descend rapidly until we came to an elevationsituated above Tongsa, to this place the descent was excessively steep. The march was thirteen miles long, the direction west. 

At a temple near Jaisa found the Juniper of Oongar in flower, andarboreous, attaining a height of about 40 feet. The whole march up, nearly to the summit, was through pine woods, A. Pendula and spinulosabeing intermixed for some time. I noticed Primula globifera, Eucalypta, Thibaudia orbicularis, Aruncus, Rosa ramis hispidis, Dipsacus, Prunella, Potentilla, Gnaphalium, Sphagnum, Daphne papyracea, Tofieldia, Gaultherianummularoides, as we approached the base of the ridge or rather the spotat which the ascent commenced. At this place Abies cedroides commenced, and Abies pendula became uncommon. 

On a bank here, I gathered abundance of mosses, Bartramia, Dicrana, etc. And some Jungermanniae. 

The ascent was through precisely similar vegetation, in one place it wasexceedingly pretty, consisting of sward with pines. Here snow was lyingon the ground in sheltered places to the depth of several inches. Theground hence was levelish, but between this place and the summit a riseof a hundred feet took place. Between these places Abies densa, cedroides and spinulosa, occurred, but this was uncommon, Rosa ramishispidis, Salix of yesterday, Bambusa of Sanah, stunted Pteris aquilina, Betuloidea, Hydrangea, Hypnum rufescens, scolopendrioid as well as below:Spiraea belloides, Rhododendron obovatum, which varies on the same plantwith ferruginous and white leaves, Sphagnum, Thibaudia orbicularis. Onsward Gentiana minima. 

As the snow increased, Abies cedroides became less, Abies densa morecommon. At the very summit Parnassia, Polygonum rheum, Compositapenduliflora, Rhododendron hispidum, Berberis spathulata, which hadoccurred previously, Vaccinium pumilium, ciliatum, Gentiana minima, Swertia, Cnicus, Compositae frequent, Labiata spicata of Dhonglaila. 

The descent was at first open, through swardy places: here Acersterculiaceum, Geranium scandens, Avena, Abies densa, Juniperusfruticosa, raro arbuscula. 

At 9, 800 feet, Rhododendron foliis lanceolato-oblongis subtus ferrugineatomentosis, arborea, became very common, forming large woods, Abies densainterspersed, Juniperus, Betuloidea which has six or seven layers ofbark, the _boj-putah_ of Hindoostan according to Blake, Rosamicrophylla, Hemiphragma, Daphne papyracea, Dicranum stratum, etc. 

At 9, 500 feet, Clematis, Berberis asiatica, commences, Betula, commonAndropogoneous grasses. 

At 9, 300 feet, Primula pulcherrima, Abies cedroides very common, Abiesdensa ceasing, Buddlaea purpurescens, Aruncus, Bupleurum. 

At 9, 200 feet, Lonicera villosa, Vaccinium cyaneum, Bambusa alia, Abiesdensa ceasing. 

At 9, 000 feet, the jungle now became humid, Gaultheria flexuosa, Mespilusmicrophyllus, Quercus ilecifolia, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris, Gaultherium nummularifolia common, Rubia cordifolia! Hydrangea. 

At 8, 900 feet, Junipers cease, woods of Q. Ilecifolia and Pinuscedroides, Rosa microphylla, shrubby Rhododendrons, that which wasarboreous previously now becoming shrubby, Berberis asiatica, Taxus orAbies brunonis! Lomaria of Khegumpa, Rhododendron foliis oblongis subtuspunctatis ferrugineis, Rubus, Primula Stuartii! Quercus foliis, Castaneae, Ilex, Betuloid, continues. 

At 8, 500 feet, Panax rhododendrifolia, Thibaudia obovata, Taxusophiopogon angustissimus, Rhododendron formosum majus! Smilax ruscoideusvel gaultherifolia! Primula pulcherrima, very common. 

At 8, 200 feet, Spiraea decomposita, Thibaudia obovata very common. Nofirs, woods of oaks and Rhododendron majus, Panax rhododendrifolia andanother species; Bambusa. 

At the nullah, same vegetation, Tetranthera nuda, Primula pulcherrima, Valeriana violifolia, Eurya acuminata, Daphne papyrifolia, Fragaria, Potentilla supina, Rumex of Khegumpa, Poa annua, Stellaria media andangustifolia, Rhodoracea deflexa!

At 8, 000 feet, the woods at this elevation have the same characters, Rhododendron argenteum becomes common, Q. Ilecifolia and Castaneaefacies, both very handsome and large trees, covered with pendulousmosses, Sphaeropteris, Saxifragea viridis, fleshy Urticea, Oxalis majoron sward at the same elevation, Vaccinium cyaneum, Mespilus microphyllus, Artemisia major, Gnaphalium, Dipsacus, Elaeagnus in woods, Tetrantheranuda, Taxus, Gaultheria flexuosa nummularifolia, Vaccinium cyaneum, Lomaria, Lonicera villosa, paper plant, Thibaudia orbicularis, Hedera. 

At 7, 800 feet, towards open barren hills, Indigofera canescens, Q. Robur, Spiraea decomposita, Anthistiria minor, Composita penduliflora, Alnus ofBeesa, Juncus effusus, Viburnum caerulescens, Xyris, Scripus fuscescensof Tassangsee, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, Polygonum rheoides, Smilax auriculata, Saccharum aristata, Lobelia pyramidalis, Stauntonialatifolia, Salix lanata, Deutzia. 

At 7, 500 feet, Quercus tomentosa commences, between this and Tongsa, Berberis asiatica is very common, Rosa sp. , quarta, Cyaneum dycopod. OfSurureem, Ilex dipyrena, Tuipus, Kysoor of Churra, Apple, Gleicheniamajor, Rubus deltoideus. In wheat fields, 7, 500 feet, Crucifera, Thlaspa, Lamium, Ervum, are found, Vaccinium cyaneum continues to 7, 000feet, this Mespilus microphylla, Berberis asiatica, Cycnium, Lycopod. OfSurureem, Ilex, Daphne papyriferae, are the only elevational plants foundbetween 8 and 9, 000 feet, and which continue low down. All the othersceased with the jungles. 

_March 13th_. --_Tongsa_: this, although the second place in thekingdom, is a poor wretched village, the houses, always excepting thepalace, are poorer than ordinary, abounding in rats, fleas, and otherdetestable vermin. Our reception would seem to be uncordial: we aremiserably housed in the heart of the village, which is a beggarly one. Ondescending the hill some people in the Pillo's house behaved veryinsolently, roaring out, and making most insolent signs for me todismount, of which of course I took no notice: sparrow-hawk was seen at8, 000 feet. There is but little cultivation, indeed the adjoining hillsare barren in the extreme. The little cultivation there is of barley, which is now in the ear, and decent enough; the crops being much betterthan any we have yet seen, although in many fields it is difficult to seeany crop at all. The village, including the houses on the surroundingadjoining heights does not contain thirty houses. There is one flock ofsheep, which are in good condition, some small shawl-goats, and a fewcattle, but of a lighter breed than the Mithans, from which they are verydistinct, and which we have scarcely seen since crossing Dhonglaila, thefirst high ridge. There is some rice cultivation along the nullah ortorrent, on which the village is situated. Pears, peaches likewiseoccur, and are now both in flower. The hills around are bare, nothingbut shrubby vegetation being visible, the tree-jungle not descendingbelow 7, 500 feet, except on one spur to the south-west, on which itreaches nearly to our present level. 

The shrubby vegetation consists of Hamamelidae, Salix, Gaultheriafruticosa, Rosa, Rubus, Pomacea, Elaeagnus, Berberis asiatica, amongwhich Artemisia major occurs on sward. Primula Stuartii, Potentilla andP. Supina, Oxalis acetoseltoides, Juncus, Bartramia, Polytrichum glaucum, Fragaria vesca. In the fields Lamium, Crucifera, Thlaspi, Gnaphaliumaureum, Prenanthoid, Fragaria indica, Viola, Ranunculus, Oxalisacetosella, Poa annua. 

Urtica urens, and urentior occur about the houses, Cupressus pendula anda Magnoliaceous tree, with exquisitely fragrant blossoms. 

The palace is a huge, long, straggling piece of patch-work, of ordinaryconstruction, and less imposing than that of Byagur, which the Pillomakes his summer residence on the Bhoomlungtung; it is however ornamentedwith three gilt umbrellas. It is situated on the bank of the nullah, anddefended by some outworks, 6 to 700 feet above it; to the east, thesemight, from their situation, be easily demolished by stones. The palaceitself is commanded in every direction, particularly by the hill, alongwhich we came from Jaisa; indeed a person might jump from the summit ofthis on to the outpost, and thence on to the palace; so precipitous isthe descent. 

The people, above all those hitherto seen, are dirty in their persons, uniting curiosity with no small share of obstinacy and impertinence intheir manners. The birds are the blackbird, a black mina, thehouse-sparrow, sparrow-hawk, larger crow, domestic pigeons, kites, andhoopoo. The red-legged crows I have heard once, but far above, nor do Ithink that they ever visit this. The productions being essentiallydifferent from those of the elevated valleys we have lately quitted. Canthose valleys be the _steps_ to the table-land of Thibet to which theymust be near, and which is reached sooner in that direction than anyother? The idea of the high valleys in question being steps to table-land is perhaps corroborated by the fact, that the table-land is said tobe within two days' journey from Byagur. 

Our interview with the Pillo took place on the 15th, it was conductedwith some state, and with some impertinence. The latter was indicated bydelaying us at the door of the audience room, the former by theattendance of more numerous and better dressed attendants than usual. TwoPillos were present. The incense as usual was burning, and the Pillos, both old and new, were seated before some large Chinese-looking figures. The only novel ceremony was the praying over a mess of something which Iimagine was meant for tea; in the prayer all joined, when finished thebeverage was handed to the Pillos, who, however, were contented withmerely tasting it. Before this some was strewn on the floor in front, and some to the right of the chieftains. The castle was in placescrowded with people, no less than 5 to 600, but all were as dirty asusual. None but the immediate attendants appeared armed. The new Pillois a dark low-looking man, with an incipient goitre, the old one a moredecent aristocratic looking person, good-looking and very fair. Thepresents were of course beggarly, consisting of indifferent oranges, wretched plantains, sugarcane of still worse quality, and ghee of anabominable odour. 

March 17th. --We still remain here, and do not expect to leave for two orthree days. The weather is unsettled, and the sun increasing in powerdaily. The new Soobahs left to-day for their appointments, with theexception of the Dewangur one. Pigs are here fed on boiled nettleleaves: old ladies may be seen occasionally busily employed in pickingthe leaves for this purpose, and which they do by means of bamboo pincersor tweezers. A few plantains may be met with here, but in a wretchedstate. Rice may be seen 500 feet above this, on the north of the castle, the slope of a hill being appropriated to its cultivation; the terracesabove, owing to the inclination, are very narrow, and from the paucity ofstraw, the crops must, I should infer, be very poor. 

_March 22nd_. --To-day we took our leave of the Pillo, who received usin a room to the south of the castle. He was friendly enough, but beggedfor presents unconscionably. He was surrounded by a considerable numberof more mean-looking persons than ordinary. On the previous meeting hetalked openly of being at enmity with the present Deb Rajah, but on thisoccasion he said little on the subject. 

The castle is an ill-built, and worse arranged building, the windows andloopholes being so placed as to afford every facility for shooting intothe air. In a court-yard, several tiger skins brought from the plains, are suspended. 

It now appears that this Pillo, who said previously that the new Deb wasnever installed, is himself an usurper, previously handing the old Debfrom the throne. This latter personage appears to be by far the morepopular of the two. The Pillo must now have great influence, as all theposts in his division, are either held by his own sons, or by his moreinfluential servants. The sons by the bye are, so long as they remain inthe presence, treated like ordinary servants. Joongar is held by one ofhis sons, a lad of about eighteen, of plain but pleasing appearance andof good manners. He visited us yesterday, and his newly acquired ranksat easily on him. The old Pillo no doubt owes his rank to his havingbeen the father of the lad chosen to be Dhurma Rajah, he is himself veryevidently low-born and low-bred, and compared with the former one, sopoor a specimen, that the greater popularity of the former is not to bewondered at. From all we have heard, they are contemptible rulers, asthey appear to do nothing but intrigue for power among themselves. Changes are hence excessively frequent, and were they attended with muchbloodshed, the country would be depopulated. 

This evening we had ample proof that the Bhootea houses are not water-proof. Heavy showers occurred with thunder and dense clouds from thesouth-west. 

_March 23rd_. --We left Tongsa, proceeding through the castle, andthence struck down to the river Mateesun. The descent was very steep, and amounted to about 1, 200 feet. The river is crossed by an ordinarybridge, it is a large and violent stream and contains fish, some ofwhich, seen by Blake, were of large size. Crossing this, we continuedthroughout the remainder of the march, gradually rising along the ridgesbounding the Tongsa river. We continued rising until we reached ourhalting place, Taseeling. In one or two places, the road was completelybuilt up; ascending by zig-zags up, in some degree, perpendicular cliffs. The distance was seven miles. 

Proceeding to the bridge, observed Rubus deltoideus, Pomacea, Quercustomentosa, Artemisia major, Cycnium, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, Buddlaea, Quercus altera, Indigofera cana, Gaylussacia serratoides, Hedera, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Pomacea sauraugifolia, Viburnumcaerulescens, Quercus robur budding, Pterogonium, Fragaria, Duchesnia. 

The remaining hills were much similar, generally very bare, clothed withpartial woods of Q. Tomentosa, Rhododendron minus; the oak changing to Q. Robur, as we increased our elevation. Near the bridge noticedBucklandia, Erythrina, which is likewise found at Tongsa, Maesasalicifolia, Urena lobata, Cnicus, Mimosea! Arbuscula inermis, Senecioscandens in flower, Araliacea subscandens, Didymocarp. Contort. , aSolenia, Betuloideus, Panax curcifolia, Alnus, Arundo, Anthistiriaarundinacea, Cerasus, Tricerta unisexualis, at 6, 000 feet. 

At about the same elevation Rhododendron minus becomes common, PrimulaStuartii, Dipsacus, Verbenacea exostemma, Scleria, Valeriana, Tradescantia on rocks, with Saxifraga ligularia in full flower at 6, 500feet. 

About this, 6, 500 to 6, 800 feet, Spiraea decomposita, Hamamelidea here atree, occasionally but small, Erythroxyloides, Conyza nivea and communis, Gleichenia major, Parochetus communis on wet dripping rocks, Woodwardia, Clematis ternata. 

At 7, 000 feet, Berberis asiatica, Q. Tomentosa ceased, its place beingsupplied by Q. Robur, Verbascum, Juncus, Gaultheria nummularioid, Mespilus microphyllus, Scirpus fuscus of Tassangsee, Thibaudiagaultherifolia, Rubia cordifolia, Azalea, and Daphne capitulis pendulis, Ranunculus uniflorus, Hydroctyle. 

Taseeling is situated about 2, 000 feet above the Mateesun, on a nakedishhill; about it there is some cultivation, and one or two villages, onetowards Tongsa and above Taseeling of some size. The place itselfconsists of a large house, with some fine specimens of Cypressus pendula, the east face of the house has the red stripe, indicative of rank. Itselevation is about 7, 300 feet, close to the house I observed the Lamiumof Bulphai, Bursa pastoris, Oxalis corniculata, Cnicus out of flower, Artemisia major, Fragaria vesca, Daphne pendula and papyracea, Hemiphragma, Composita pendulifolia, Lycopod. Of Surureem, Hypericum, Berberis asiatica, Juniperus; Barley cultivation, and a Pomaceousarbuscula, armat. Ovar. 5-discretis. The red-legged crow occurs here, and a thrush much resembling our English one. The raven of courseoccurs. A curious opening occurs in the hills at Taseeling, affording aprospect of the Bag Dooar plains, seven days' journey distant, but theroad is bad. 

_March 24th_. --Leaving Taseeling we commenced to ascend until werounded a ridge, when we turned to the west, we then commenced todescend, but slightly, winding over undulated surfaces of barrenishhills. After some time we reached heavy tree jungle, the road proceedingin the same undulating manner, so that it was impossible to say whetherwe had risen or descended. About one we came on the river, up the ravineof which we had been advancing ever since turning to the west. Thisstream is of some size, very violent and rapid, but fordable. Near thisis a large pagoda, built after the old Boodhistical style, and the onlyrespectable one we have yet seen, its site is pretty, and it isornamented above with eyes and a fiery-red nose. Leaving this weascended along one bank of the river, until we reached Chindupjee, ourhalting place; this was distant from the pagoda three miles, and fromTaseeling twelve. This latter part reminded me of Bhoomlungtung; firsbeing the prevailing trees, and the valley having more pretensions to thename than usually happens. 

We encamped in a beautiful spot, the house being situated on fine slopingsward, surrounded by picturesque trees of Q. Ilecifolia, a few tallCypressus standing up in the centre. The village is a few feet above, and of average size, although it looks from a little distance to be ofconsiderable size. The march throughout was beautiful, especially afterentering the wooded tract; this reminded me of the march near Khegumpa, the woods were here and there very picturesque, glades and swardsabounding, water was very abundant here, and this no doubt causes thedevelopment of so much vegetation. 

At 7, 800 feet, Thibaudiaceae very common, Rhododendron two species, Gaultheria flexuosoides, Thibaudia obovata, Caudata myrtifolia, Hydrangea, which I find to be a climber, Rhododendron majus, commencing, pine wood; chatterers heard here. Hills naked or covered here and therewith stunted wood; marshy places common. 

At 7, 600 feet, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Tetranthera nuda, Sphaeropteris, pearand apple, Q. Tomentosa, Magnolia grandiflora begins, Polygonum rheoides, Daphne pendula, which is used, as well as the other, both here and inNepal in the manufacture of paper: brick-red black-pate. 

At this same elevation farther on, Rosa hispida! Gillenia, Juncus, Rhododendron deflexa, Smilax gaultherifolia, Spiraea bella, Dipsacus, Spiraea decomposita, Ilex, Vaccinium cyaneum, Magnolia grandiflora verycommon. The country now becomes more wooded, the woods being confined tomoist ravines, and in other situations where water is very plentiful, thewoods throughout become continuous, and forming the large forests beforementioned: having the open spaces between the woods covered with sward, on which Gentiana pygmaea, and Fragaria are very common. 

[Chindupjee: p272. Jpg]

As we approached the wood or forest, Pinus cedroides commenced, andtowards the valley of Chindupjee this species became very common, Rumexoccurred throughout in wet places, also at Taseeling. Geranium is commonalso in wet places, Stauntonia latifolia, Potentilla, Duchesnoides, Tussilago of Churra, on the confines of wood and on it. Here the orangebreasted trochilus occurred. The mass of the wood is formed of a fineQuercus, resembling Q. Glauca, it is a beautiful and a shady tree. Nextto it in abundance is Rhododendron majus, now in full flower, and forminga beautiful object, Rhododendron minus ceases with the barrener tracts. Magnolia is very conspicuous; Pinus cedroides common towards the pagoda;Eurya not rare, Gaultheria nummulifolia continues throughout, Valerianaviolifolia, Oxalis acetoselloides, Bryum, Butia purpurea, Sambucus, Saxifraga of Bulphai, and another species, Bambusa microphylla, Swertia, Luzula, Thibaudia orbicularis, Primula Stuartii, occurred between thecommencement of the ascent and the pagoda; at between 7, 300 to 7, 600feet, Magnolia odoratis. 

At the pagoda and village, Pinus cedroides, P. Pendula, Bambusa of Sanah, Mespilus microphyllus, Magnolia grandiflora, Berberis asiatica, Q. Anthoxylia, Coriaria, Rosa altera of Bhoomlungtung, Elaeagnus, Salix andAllium of Bulphai, occur. 

Chindupjee is situated on a rivulet close to the confluence, with alarger stream. Around it, or at least between the village and the largerstream, picturesque patches of sward bordered with a very picturesqueoak. Q. Ilecifolia occur; this tree predominates all about the village, it is certainly the prettiest place we have yet seen. 

Some cultivation occurs around, chiefly of barley, with a little portionof radishes. The valley is surrounded by comparatively low mountains, most of which are rather bare, many are transversely furrowed on thesurface, this may arise from their having been at some former periodunder cultivation. --The prevailing trees on the surrounding heights arefirs, Pinus pendula and cedroides. No fish are to be seen in the river. The birds are the raven, white-necked starling, _bullfinch_, crimson andyellow shrikelets, blue tomtits, lesser ditto with two stripes on thehead, white-rumped waterchat, red-tailed chesnuty sparrow. 

The plants are Q. Ilecifolia, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurinea, Hamamelidioides, Castanea aromatica, Pinus cedroides and pendula, Bambusamicrophylla, and B. Of Sanah which may be a variety depending on itsmarshy sites, Rhododendron minus, Salix, Mespilus microphyllus, Gaultheria nummularoides, Elaeagnus, Marchantia, Swertia, Rumex, Daphnepapyracea, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Berberis asiatica, Rosa hispida, Rubus caesius, Stauntonia latifolia, Tofieldioid of Sanah and Pemee, Taxus, Mespilus microphyllus, Ilex dipyrena, Oxalis acetoselloid, Thymus, Lycopodium of Surureem, Juniperus. 

Bamboos split and inverted, and then placed in the ground, are used toscare away beasts from the cornfields. 

_March 26th_. --Left at seven and a half and proceeded along the riverwhich runs by Chindupjee, the path running over the spurs of the hills, forming its right bank. After proceeding about four miles, we crossedthe nullah, changing our direction, and proceeding up a tributary, untilwe reached a prettily situated, and rather large village, thence wecommenced to ascend over naked slopes with intervening woods, until wereached the base of the chief ascent, which is not very steep, althoughof good length, chiefly over naked hills. On reaching the summit, whichis about 10, 000 feet high, we commenced to descend, and the descentcontinued uninterruptedly and steeply until we reached Rydang, where wehalted. 

We passed only one village, which is about five miles from Chindupjee, and of similar size; but we passed in the more elevated places twotemporary ones, apparently intended for the residence of the herdsmen ofyaks or chowry-tailed cows, as a herd of these animals was seen feedingnear each place. 

The march throughout was beautiful, in the more elevated and drierportions, winding over swardy slopes or through woods of fir trees: onthe descent from 9, 000 feet downwards, passing through beautiful forests, chiefly of oak, and diversified in every possible way. The long-tailedpie was met with in the first portion, about 7, 800 feet, the speckledchatterers at 8, 500 feet, red shrikelet at 7, 800 feet, and a new hawk at8, 300 feet. I observed the water-ouzel again as high as 8, 000 feet. Thenew plants were a Carex, 6, 500 feet, a sileneous plant past flowering, from the _same_ limestone formation. 

At 7, 800 feet, and not far from Chindupjee, Pinus spinulosa againre-appears, it becomes common towards the village alluded to, andcontinues throughout the ascent, up to 9, 300 feet, P. Cedroides wasuncommon during the first part of the march, its place being occupied byP. Spinulosa, afterwards it re-appeared, and continued abundant up to9, 300 feet, it re-appeared on the descent about the same elevation, andcontinued to about 8, 000 feet. Abies densa commences at the base of thechief ascent: at 10, 000 feet, it is the only fir to be seen, it descendsbut a short way on the Rydang side. In the higher portions it occurredmixed with a Juniper, which in proper places becomes a small but eleganttree. 

At the village on 7, 000 feet, observed Rosa hispida, Ligustram of Jaisa, Philadelphus, Pinus spinulosa common, as also Pinus cedroides, Bambusa ofSanah very common. Near this, larks were heard soaring high above us. 

At 8, 500 feet, Pendulous lichens becoming plentiful, Lonicera villosa. 

At 9, 000 feet, Abies densa appears, Acer sterculium, Betula, Bogh Pata, Rhododendron fruticosa, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis. 

At 9, 300 feet, Abies densa common, P. Cedroides rare, spinulosa 0, pendula 0, Rosa hispida, Gaultheria nummularioid, which as usualcontinued throughout, Hypnum scolopendroid, Sphagnum, Bogh Pata verycommon, Rhododendron foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus argenteis, which I found on the descent as low as 8, 000 feet. 

At 9, 500 feet, Bogh Pata very common, trees covered with Pendulouslichens, Bambusa of Sanah, Abies densa everywhere. 

At 10, 000 feet, Abies densa, Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, foliissubtus argenteis; I am not sure whether this is a variety or not, but itindicates greater elevation than the ferruginous one, Rhododendrongemmis, viscosis, foliis lanceolatis, supra venosis subtus subargenteisvery common, Gnaphalium, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida, Swertia, Berberis spathulata, Orthotuck, Cerastum inflatum, Hemiphragma, BoghPata, Primula globifera, Pedicularis, Dicranum nigrescens, etc. Limonia, Laureah. 

Daphne papyraceae occurs at the same elevation, chiefly on the side ofthe descent. From this place an opening is visible to the north west, occupied by low hills. Juniperus very fine occurs, Compositae abundant. Snow lies in the hollows and sheltered woods. 

At 9, 600 feet, Lonicera villosa, Rosa microphylla, Buddlaea purpurescens!Berberis spathulata, Spiraea belloides, Hydrangea! Rhododendron foliislanceolatis, etc. As above, forming thick woods, Abies densa, Bogh Pata, Bambusa, Limonia lanceolata. 

At 9, 400 feet, Prunella, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata spicata, Baptisia!High ground 14 to 15, 000 feet, is seen forming a lofty heavily snowedridge to the north. 

At 9, 000 feet, Pinus cedroides re-appears, Bogh Pata, Rhododendron asbefore, Daphne papyraceae, Thibaudia orbicularis, Limonia lanceolata, Dalibarda, Polygonum rheum!

At 8, 800 feet, Rhododendron hispida, Abies densa ceased, Limonialanceolata common, Lonicera villosa, Rebus triphyllus, Acer! Taxus!Primula Stuartii! Rubia cordifolia!!

At 8, 500 feet, Chimaphila, Rhododendron obovata-ferrugina! Pinuscedroides, here and there, of immense size, diameter of one-six feet, Lycopodium of Surureem, Bogh Pata, Gaultheria flexuosa, Q. Ilecifolia, also a very large and tall tree. 

At 8, 400 feet, Taxus very common, Smilax gaultherifolia, Olea, Sarcococeavery common, Thibaudia orbicularis, Laurinea, Hamameloides. Beautifulglades here occurred, trees covered with mosses: another fine oak, Q. Castaneoides commences, Daphne papyraceae very common, Compositapenduliflora, Hemiphragma, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis basi, cordatissubtus punctatis, Ilex! Berberis intermedia, Laurinea uniflora, largeUmbellifera of Rodoole descent. 

At 8, 000 feet, Acer, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron majus! R. Argenteacommences. 

At 7, 500 feet, Cedar ceased, Rhododendron majus very common, Taxusdiminishing, Sphaeropteris, Ericinia soloraefolia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Thibaudia orbicularis ceases. 

At 7, 300 feet, Berberis pinnata, Spiraea bella, Cycnium, apple tree. Herewe emerged on open space in front of a hill, on which several detachedhouses stood, around which Pinus pendula was very common. Barleycultivation. Several small villages visible around, and to the north, infront of the snowy ridge, a curious truncated mountain was seen, its apexcovered with snow. 

Magnolia! Conaria! Cycnium, Viburnum canescens! Gaultheria arborea, Berberis intermedia very common, Fragaria. 

At 7, 200 feet, Q. Tomentosa! the others have ceased, Gaultheriafruticosa, Rhododendron arborea, minus and argentea, in fine flower, Eurya aecuminata, Smilax, Gaultherifolia, Thibaudia caudata, Q. Robur, Gleichenia major, Salix as before, Artemisia major, Rumex, Valerianaviolifolia, Rosa, Berberis asiatica, Ervicia crucifera, Thlaspi, Callitriche, Calamus. 

The curious features are, the absence of Thibaudia obovata on thedescent, and of Mespilus microphyllus, the substitution of Thibaudiaorbicularis, and its low descent, the abundance of Taxus, size of thecedar and Q. Ilecifolia, the re-appearance at same elevation of Magnoliagrandiflora, occurrence of Rubia cordifolia, at such an elevation, etc. 

_Rydang_ is prettily situated towards the bottom of a rather narrowvalley. There is a good deal of barley cultivation about it. I alsonoticed Cycnium, Celopecurus, Acorus Calamus, Corydalis! Fragaria, Cardamina, Rosa, Berberis, Ilex, Plantago, Rumex, Viola, Artemisia major, Daphne papyraceae, Gentiana pygmaea of Khegumpa, Houttuynia! Pomacea, Callitriche, Dipsacus, Berberis pinnata, Elaeagnus, Q. Robur, ilecifolia. Of birds the long-tailed pie! is common. Berberis asiatica, Viburnum, Caneun, apple, Quercus microcarpus, Orthodon, Pteris aquilina, Ophiopogon, Angustis, Valeriana violifolia, Urtica urentium, Stellariamedia, Eurya acuminata, Betula. 

_March 27th_. --Our march commenced with a steep descent to the Gnee, ariver of average size. We then continued descending along it for sometime, crossing it once on our way: we then diverged up a small nullah, and then commenced a very steep ascent, of about 2, 000 feet. Afterattaining this, we proceeded through woods, or over sward at about thesame elevation, still continuing along the Gnee. We subsequentlycommenced to descend at first through fine oak woods, then over barrennaked hills. We reached Santagoung, about three and a half milesdistance in a direct line, but fourteen miles by the road, highest pointtraversed 8, 000 feet; lowest reached 6, 000. 

During first part of descent, noticed one or two straggling cedars andTaxus, Primula Stuartii, the woods were formed by Quercus robur, tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus, Scabiosa reappears, Clematis nova species, Sambucus, Rubus cresius, Composita pendulifolia, etc. As at Rydang. 

Along the Gnee, the beech became plentiful, as also two Viburnums, bothtrees, together with the Cupulifera of Tongsa was here common and in finefoliage. Juglans, Incerta of Boodoo, Gaultheria, Mimosa arborea, Cupressus pendula, Conaria, Berberis racemosa and pinnata, Quercusmicrocarpus, Woodwardia, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Marlea! Cucurbitaceaemenispermoides, Alnus of Beesa, Polygonium rheoides, Mespilusmicrophyllus! Gentiana pygmaea, Salix, Pyrus. The birds were the usualwater birds, viz. Ouzel, slaty-white rump, slaty-red tail, white-patedchat. 

On the smaller nullah Bucklandia, Viburnum microphyllum, Bucklandia!

The ascent was at first through dry woods of Rhododendron minus, Q. Tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, a Taxus or two occurred at 7, 000 feet, Indigofera cana, Rosa, Gaultheria fruticosa of Sanah aristatum. 

At 7, 000 feet, the same vegetation continued, Rhododendron minus verycommon, Pendulous lichens commencing. 

At this elevation, in more moist spots, woods thick, differentlyconstituted, Quercus glauescense, Castaneoides ilecifolia, here and thereRhododendron majus, Magnolia grandiflora. 

Gaultheria flexuosa, Pinus cedroides rare, Vaccinium cyaneum, Rosahispida! Saxifraga! Thibaudia orbicularis and caudata, Mespilusmicrophyllus, Azalea, Ilex, Symplocos, Tussalago of Churra, Acer, Thibaudia obovata, Pendulous mosses abundant. 

The remainder of the vegetation afforded little of interest; consisted ofstunted oaks, Q. Tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus:Serissoides reappears near Santagoung, Pinus longifolia, plantains. 

The valley to the left towards Santagoung is on the left side wellpopulated and cultivated. 

_March 28th_. --Santagoung, a small village 6, 300 feet above the sea, situated on bare hills, between two loftier ridges. Country around wellinhabited and well cultivated in the terrace style: villages numerous. Pinus longifolia, Rosa, Azalea, etc. Occur here as before. A lake orjheel was observed 500 feet below the village, of some extent, formed ina natural hollow, abounding with Scirpus trigueter of Churra, andHydropeltis. Water-fowl, snipe, and red pie-like peewit or plover. 

The march commenced with a steep descent, which continued until wereached the river. 

Crossing this we ascended 1, 000 feet, and then proceeded in an undulatingmanner over naked hills until we reached Thain, distance six miles; thegreatest descent was about 1, 800 feet, ascent 1, 000 feet; the countrynaked; no forest. The hills for some extent towards Thain appeared fromsome cause very red. 

But little interesting vegetation occurred: noticed a huge Cypressuspendula, half-way to the Gnee. Vegetation otherwise much the same astowards Tassgong, Valeriana violifolia, Azalea, Campanula linearis, Rubusdeltoides, Aspidium macroser. , Artemisia major, Pinus longifoliastraggling, only plentiful near Thain, Anthistiria minor! PrimulaStuartii, Mimulus, Gentiana pumila, Alnus, Flemingia secunda, Morusrubeseoides, Salix, Quercus, Viburnum microphyllum. 

At the river Caesalpinia! Ficus obliqua! Desmodium, Salix, Indigoferacana, Arundo, Luculia. 

On the ascent Holcus, Elaeagnus, Santalacea, Clematis cana, Senecionoides, Conyza vulgaris, Emblica, Schaenanthus, Phyllanthus ruber, Q. Tomentosa, Desmodium vestilum, Briedleia obovata! Nerium canum, Euphorbia antiquorum, Jasminum of Benka, Ligustrum conaria, Mesp. Microphyllus (are these two species confounded by me, as thelarger-leaved one never descends so low?), Lerissoides, Osbeckialinearis, Euphorbia, Gordonia, Gymnobotrys. Red-legged crow; in descentaltitude 5, 800 feet, the most common plant is a species of Berberis verynearly allied to B. Asiatica. Rain in the afternoon. 

_March 29th_. --Mimulus, Acorus Calamus, Quercus robur, Rhododendronminus, P. Longifolia, Gymnobotrys, Campanula linearifolia, Rosatetrapetala, Gordonia, Salix, Verbena officinalis, majus, rugus, Lemna, Gentiana, Hypericum japonica, Indigofera cana, Schaenanthus, Senecio, Buddlea of Nulka, Pyrus, wheat, Ervum, Vicia, Potentilla, Q. Tomentosa, Cypressus, Ficus, Berberis, Phyllanthus ruber. 

Blackbird, sparrow-hawk, and Hoopoe about houses; it has a curious hoop, varied with a grating chirp. 

The blackbird frequents houses here; its voice is very discordant andsingular, sparrow-hawks were seen to pursue wounded pigeons. Houses few, built of unbaked and large bricks or rather cakes of mud. The village ofWandipore is visible to the south-west, about one and a half mile. Snowon ridges to west, all which are lofty. The country around Wandipore istolerably populous, though not so much so as about Santagoung. 

We were compelled to halt at Phain or Thain, until the 1st instant, owingto the admirable management of the Bhooteas. It appeared at first as ifthe Zoompoor or Governor of Wandipore was determined that we should notbe gainers in time by not going through his castle, but subsequently itturned out that the Deb had, with infinite consideration, wished us toremain in order to rest ourselves after our long journey. This may havebeen merely said to shelter the Wandipore man, who had the impudence tosend one evening to us saying, that the Deb and Durmah were coming toWandipore next morning, and that we were to meet them there, and returnthe same evening to Punukha. This turned out untrue. Pemberton was atlast compelled to write to the Deb, and the consequence was thearrangement for our advance next morning. 

_April 1st_. --The march to Punukha extended over a most barren dried-upcountry, the features presented were the same as those about Phain. Weproceeded at first in the direction of Wandipore, then diverged, proceeding downwards in the direction of the villages. The remainder ofour journey extended either just above the base of the hills, or alongthe valley: the distance was nine miles. The march was an uninterestingone; the only pretty part being the river that drains the valley, and itis one of considerable size, fordable in but few places; the rapids arefrequent, but the intermediate parts flow gently. We were all dreadfullydisappointed in the capital, the castle even is by no means so imposingas that of Tongsa or Byagur; the city miserable, consisting of a few meanhouses, and about as many ruined ones. 

The surrounding cultivation is chiefly poor wheat; the hills the mostbarren conceivable. On arriving near the palace we made a detour, toavoid exposure to the usual regal insolence: our plan was effectual. Fromsome distance I had espied our quarters, and although our mission is onesent by the most powerful eastern government, yet we had allotted to us aresidence fit only for hogs. 

It consisted of a court-yard, surrounded by walls, and what had evidentlybeen stabling; the apartments were numerous, but excessively small, theroof of single mats. The place swarmed with vermin. In this wedetermined not to stay, and so proceeded to the city, (for sure therecannot be a capital without a city, ) and there, after some delay, procured two houses, in one of which the present Tongso Pillo had lodgedbefore his present exaltation. But imagine not that it was a palace. Thetwo houses together furnished three habitable rooms. 

I imagine not that the houses were procured for us by the localgovernment. We only obtained them by Pemberton's liberality was wellknown. The Sepoys' lines were transported hither not by Bhooteas but byour own people. In addition the people are in many cases insolent, andit was only after a peremptory message to the Deb, stating what theconsequences would be of such a system of annoyance, that we got anyassistance. 

_April 3rd_. --We have heard nothing of the Mutaguat. It appears thatthe country is unsettled now. The old Deb having possession ofTassisudon, and the people here declaring they will stop all supplies ifthe Deb does not, according to custom, repair at the usual period toTassisudon. A Deewan here, who has held office under four Rajahs, says, that the present truce is owing to the hot weather; Bhooteas only admirefighting in the cold season, in conformation of which, he says that inthe cold season the contest will be renewed. There will then be anadditional bone of contention for the present. Nor should I much wonderif the Paro Pillo then comes forward and takes the Debship and all away. The Deewan's account of the past fighting, places the Bhooteas in a mostcontemptible light: it appears that when they fire a gun, they take noaim, their only aim being to place their bodies as far as possible fromthe weapon; the deadly discharge is followed up by the deadlier dischargeof a stone. At plunder they are more adroit. 

The following plants may be found about this place; Ligustrum, Salexpendula, Valeriana orolifolia, Campanula linearis, senecionideae, Viola, Jasminum, Rosea, Conaria, mangoe one tree in the gardens, Citrus two orthree species in ditto, Jubrung, Diospyros, Acorus, Veronica, Ranunculus, Sclerossophalos, Alopecercus, Agrostides, Bombax, stunted weepingcypress, Pinus longifolia, Punica, Dipsacus, Potentilla, Potamogeton 2, Hypericum japonica, Lysimachia, Chenopod, Ajuga, Anisomales. 

Birds--great kingfisher, diver snappet, white-pated rumped chats, noouzels. Part of the gardens extend from the palace up the river to thevillage; the breadth is fifty to seventy yards, the length 200. They aresurrounded by a dilapidated stone fence. Although an Assam malee orgardener resides in them, they are kept in miserable order: the soilseems good, the trees flourishing, mangoe, Diospyros, Jubrung, oranges, citrons, pomegranates, are the principal trees. The south side has astreamlet running along it outside the fence, for the supply of water. This streamlet abounds with Acorus Calamus. 

_April 9th_. --Our interview with the Deb took place. We dismounted atthe boards over the streamlets above mentioned, and then proceeded overthe wooden bridge across the Patcheen, which is here a wide and deepstream: the bridge was partially lined with guards, in different dresses, few in uniform; it was besides armed with shoulder wall-pieces, capitalthings for demolishing friends. We then crossed a sort of court-yard andthen ascended a steep and extraordinarily bad flight of steps to the doorof the palace. Here we found the household troops all dressed in scarletwith two door-keepers, one seated on either side of the door: this led usinto a quadrangle. The citadel being in front, the side walls wererather low, although viewed externally they appear of good height, butthe ground of the interior is much raised. We crossed this diagonally, passed into the opposite quadrangle on the west side, and thence ascendedinto a gallery, hung with arms, and filled with followers, from this wepassed after a little delay into the Rajah's room. 

This was handsomely decorated with scarfs, the pillars were variouslyornamented. The Rajah was seated on an elevated place in the corner, andappeared a good-looking well-bred man. He received the GovernorGeneral's letter from P. With much respect, getting up from his chair:the visit was a short one, and entirely of ceremony. The presents weredeposited on a raised bench in his front. Communications were kept up bythe Deewan and the Zimpay, formerly Joongar Zoompoor or Governor. Onretiring we were presented with fruits, oranges, walnuts, horridplantains, ghee, eggs and rice. 

The whole business went off very well, no attempt at insolence. Theconcourse of people was greater than I expected. Swarms of Gylongs, themore curious of whom received whacks from leathern straps, wielded bysome magisterial brother. 

_April 10th_. --Yesterday we saw the Dhurma, to whom we had to ascend byseveral flight of steps, which are most break-neck things, the stepsoverlapping in front, and being often lined with iron on the part mostsubject to be worn. We found him in the south room of the upper story ofthe citadel. We waived our right to sitting in his presence as thequestion was put to us with respect and delicacy. The Rajah is a goodlooking boy, of eight or ten years old: he was seated in the centre, butin an obscure part of the room, and was not surrounded by many immediateattendants. The balcony was filled with scribes with handsome black, gilt, lettered books before them. Two other scribes were likewiseengaged on our right, noting down what passed, but they seemed to be verybad writers. The visit went off well. The room was tastily, but not soprofusely ornamented with scarfs as was the Deb's. 

On returning we found the household guard drawn up in front to preventour passing out without paying a fee. This matter was soon settledforcibly, and the durwan, or door-keeper, lost by his impudence thepresent he would otherwise have had from P. , besides being in a greatfright lest the affair should be reported to the Rajah. 

_April 11th_. --The rains appear to have set in: the sky is constantlyovercast, and showers are by no means unfrequent. One of our dawksarrived opened: this no doubt took place in the palace, although the Debstrenuously denies it. Messengers are to be sent to Tassgoung, where theaccident is said to have happened. The cause of its having been opened, is no doubt the report that there was a letter in it from the old Deb. 

_April 14th_. --A violent squall unaccompanied by rain, came onyesterday from the west: roofs were flying about in every direction, andmany accidents occurred from the falling of the stones by which they weresecured. Part of the palace was unroofed. The storm has stopped all ouramusements, particularly as the Gylongs attribute it to our firing. TheKacharies, our servants, were likewise requested not to play any more onthe esplanade. This is just as it has been in every other place inBootan, nothing is said against amusement until the presents have beenreceived, and then we are requested to do nothing, and the authoritiesbecome disobliging!

The potters fashion their earthenware entirely with their hands, theupper half is finished on a flat board; the lower being added afterwards;the finishing is done chiefly by a wet rag, the operator revolving aroundthe pot. The vessels chiefly used for carrying water are oval, these arecovered with black glaze. 

Some Didymocarpi very fragrant, one near Chindupjee most grateful, resembling quince and sandal wood; the odour is permanent, and appears toreside in the young leaves before their expansion: Iris, Hypericum, Viola, Ligust. , Ranunculus, Verbasena, Gymnostomum, Serratula arenaria, Veronica. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

_Return of the Mission from Bootan_. 

_May 9th_, _1838_. --We left Punukha at twelve, having been delayedthroughout the morning, on account of coolies. We crossed the palaceprecints, and the two bridges unmolested. Our road lay in the directionof our entering Punukha for some time, but on the opposite bank of theriver. We gradually descended throughout this portion. Then at abouteight miles turning round a ridge, we followed a ravine to the west, somedistance above its base, gradually descending to the watercourse drainingit. Thence we ascended in a very circuitous route to Talagoung, thecastle of which is in a ruinous state: it is visible from the placewhence one turns to the westward. 

Up to this point, which was certainly 1, 200 feet above Punukha, no changeoccurred in the vegetation. The country remained barren, the ravines infavourable places being clothed with underwood, and as we increased ourelevation, with trees. Noticed a Bupleurum, Viburnum sp. , Ficus obliqua. 

At 3, 500 feet, Sambucus, Bupleurum sp. , Potentilla as before, Gentianapinnata, Serissoides, Campanula. 

At 3, 800 to 4, 000 feet, Pinus longifolia more common though still astunted tree; Emblica, Paederia cyaneum, Q. Tomentosa, Primula Stuartii, Parochetus, Pogonantherum, this is a most common grass about here, itbecomes more stunted as we proceed lower, and its extreme elevation doesnot exceed 6, 000 feet, Acorus very common, Adhatoda!

At 4, 000 feet, Simool, Dipsacus as before, Aspidium, Macrodon, Rhododendron minus re-appears. 

On rounding the ridge, although we did not increase our elevation, thecountry became more wooded. In some places Q. Robur, Gordonia, Pyruswere common, others and the greater portion were composed of Pinuslongifolia, Bucklandia re-appears at 4, 500 feet, Azalea, Saccharumaristatum, Hedera, Didymocarpus contortus, on rocks. 

Towards the nullah we passed a village with some wheat and buckwheatcultivation; Plantago, Ranunculus, Thymus, were interspersed. Along thewatercourse Symplocos styracifolius, which becomes a middling-sized tree, was seen, and Stellaria cana, petalis albis profunda partitus, as well asS. Media. 

Our section was as follows:

[Section Page 285: m285. Jpg]

_Telagoung_ is a middling-sized, dilapidated castle, in which it issettled the first blood is to be shed in the forthcoming contest, it isoccupied by the old Deb's men. Up to its walls, thickets abound, and thefragrant rose was very conspicuous. 

Its elevation is about 5, 600 feet, yet a Ficus may be seen planted by theside of Cupressus pendula, and Punica thrives. The change in temperaturewas very great. Birds abounded throughout; a new sombre-coloured dovewas shot by P. : the most common birds were the orange-billed shrike oftowards Tumashoo. 

_May 10th_. --We left Telagoung at 7 A. M. And descended instantly to asmall nullah, from which we re-ascended. The ascent continued withoutintermission, occasionally gradually, but generally rather steep forthree or four hours. The descent occupied about as long, and about three-fifths the distance, following nearly throughout a small nullah. Woollakkoo, our halting place, is a good-sized village, and fourteen anda half miles from Telagoung. 

To the nullah I observed Stellaria cana, Berberis asiatica, which has re-appeared, Erythrina, Rubus deltoid, which is very common all over theseparts and whose fruit is palatable, Uvularia, Swertia plantaginifolia, Caesalpinia, Mimulus, and Urtica foliis apice erosis. 

The ascent commenced through woods of Q. Robur, the shrubs consisting ofGaultheria fragrans and arborea, a Myrsinea, Thibaudia serrata, whoseinferior limit is here, Rhododendron minus, but not very common. A gooddeal of wheat cultivation and of better quality occurred at 6, 500 feet, assuming Telagoung as 5, 600 feet, Pteris aquilina common throughout andup to 10, 000 feet. 

At 8, 000 feet, Taxus re-appears, with Baptisia in flower, Thibaudiaorbicularis, Luzula of Chindupjee, Smilax gaultherifolia, Thibaudiaobovata, Fragaria vesca, which continues throughout, and has a range ofbetween 3 to 10, 000 feet, Bambusa microphylla, and Acer sterculiaceaappear, woods of Q. Ilecifolia, up to 7, 200 feet, chiefly of Q. Robur, Gaultheriae two common ones, occur commonly. 

At 8, 500 feet, the woods composed chiefly of Q. Castaneoides and glaucum, Q. Ilecifolia less common. No Q. Robur, path-like glades and ratheropen, Pythonium ecaudata, up to 9, 000 feet, Primula pulcherrima verycommon. 

At 8, 500 feet, Saxifraga of Khegumpa and of Chindupjee, Mitella, ! Luzula, Carex, Viola reniformis, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hedera, Ilex, Mercurialis, grey lichens. 

Taxus, Quercus, Rhododendron, another species foliis subtus ferrugineo-argenteis floribus rosaceis. 

Smilacina, Ophiopogon, Urtica carnosa decumbens, Limonia laureola, Pythonium ecaudatum. 

At the same elevation and indeed below us, but on other ridges, cedarswere seen in abundance: Hydrangea and Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Epilobiumsp. Withered. 

At 7, 800 feet, Aristolochia novum genus, Tritium glaucum, Thlaspi, Arabiscordata, Loranthus, Symplocos sessiliflora. 

At 7, 900 feet, Lardizabalea. 

At 8, 000 feet, Hamiltonia?

At 9, 000 feet, Crucifera floribus amplis albis, on mossy banks, withMitella, Spiraea densa. 

Acer sterculiacea in forests, Cerasi sp. Common. 

Betula, Ribes, Arenaria, Lilium giganteum, Laurinea, Chimaphila, Acer. 

At 9, 300 feet, Rhododendron hispida and rosaceum, Taxus, Pythoniumfiliformia, Trillium album, Salvia of Royle, Rhododendron ferrugineo andobovata, Smilacinia densiflora, Sarcococea, Daphne cannabinum, here inflower, Anemone, Prunella, Hemiphragma, Cedar, but rare. 

At 9, 700 feet, Primula Stuartii in flower lower down, but here quitepast, Corydalis linetta, Viola, Juniperus, Viburnum floribus magnisalbis, Rhododendron deflexa, in flower. Acer: 1, vel. 2, Cerasi sp. Altera, Paris polyphylla, and from 7, 000 feet, Iris foliis angustis, Cerasus apetalus gathered below here a shrub, very common, Osmundia alia, Berberis ilecifolia and integrifolia, Rosa microphylla, Spinis latis, Baptisia, Corydalis altior floribus luteis, Aconiti sp. , Papaveraceasucco aqueo, ferrugineo hispida, capsula siliquosa, 3-valvis, replistotidem, stigmata radiata, 5-lobo. Prunella, Betula, Ranunculus minimus, Carex, Mimulus! Sambucus of below, Salvia of Royle, Polytrichumrubescens. 

From the ridge the view to the south is pretty, the country undulated, either naked and swardy, or clothed with firs. 

Abies spinulosa commences: and is soon succeeded by Pinus pendula, which, as we proceeded lower, soon became the chief tree; Rhododendron obovatafinely in flower, Lilium giganteum common. Trillium stratum, Ribeslacineat. 

Q. Ilecifolia re-appears 500 or 600 feet below the ridge, Pinus spinulosacommon, with a Salix, grey pendulous lichens. 

At 6, 000 feet, P. Pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Larix, Rumex, which hasoccurred throughout, Salvia alia viscosa foliis subhastatis trilobis, Cycnia, Astragaloides! bracteis subvaginant magnis, Rosa latispinabecomes very common. 

At 8, 800 feet, Hedera, Hamiltonia re-appears, Galium sp. , Juncus, Oxlip, Clematis, Salix, very common. 

At 8, 500 feet, a village is seen to the right; Q. Ilecifolia is the chieftree, with P. Pendula, Azalea, Baptisia, Pomacea of Rydang, Rhododendronarbor. Minus. Red-legged crow, pine chatterers. 

At 8, 000 feet, Baptisia continues; all alpine vegetation ceased;Rhododendron minus continues, Q. Ilecifolia, but no Corydalis, Anemone, Iris, etc. Although Oxlip does; Salix continues. 

The descent to the halting place is marked by return to the oldvegetation indicated by re-appearance of Elaeagnus fragrans and Rosatetrapetala, Valeriana violifolia. 

Baptisia rotundifolia and oblonga, this last a tree very common, Pinuspendula chief tree, Pomacea celastufolia, Elaeagnus fragrans, Rosatetrapetala, very common along the nullah, Baptisia continues low down, as Oxlip, Stauntonia alba, Viburnum, _Asteroides_, Jasminum luteum, Tussilago, Spiraea bella, found about the level of this. 

All the monocotyledons have a defined elevation; Smilacina cordifolia isthe lowest, except Uvularia, Lilacineae and Trillium, are the highest, not being found much under 10, 000 feet. There is an Osmundia likewise onthe ridge, the fronds below are not contracted, it isferrugineo-tomentosa. Hemiphragma has a wide range, between 6 and 10, 000feet: Salvia nubigena of Royle, confined to 10, 000 feet, Aconitum, Corydalis lutea, lenella and caerulea, Prunus penduliflora, Papaveracea, Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, Silacinea, Cerasus apetala, Ribes 2, aresure signs of elevation. 

If the Mimulus be the same as that from Punukha, it has a very widerange, as also Lilium giganteum, Pythonium filiformeis, limited, as wellas ecaudata, Crucifera, Anemone, Laurinea, Polytrichium, were alldefinite. Mitella ranges between 9 and 9, 500 feet, it is strange thatthe chief variety in vegetation occurred on the Telagoung side, on whichsprings are rare. No Thibaudias occurred on the other side, Euphorbiawas confined to the Woollakkoo side, as also Primula, etc. Etc. Thechief cultivation about Woollakkoo is of wheat, but from the mode ofcultivation the plant is evidently adapted for irrigation; rice is alsocultivated. This is perhaps its maximum height. The hills around arecovered here and there with snow, and must therefore be above 10, 000 feethigh. The highest were to the north-west. 

The river is of moderate size, fordable in most places, but still wellsupplied with wooden bridges. Fish, in shoals too, were seen here andthere. 

_May 11th_. --Our march continued down this river throughout: we leftits banks once or twice owing to ascending some hundred feet above itsbed, occasionally it spread out, but generally was confined between therocks. Its banks in some places were planted with weeping willows. Thevegetation throughout was much the same. The most common plants wereRosa, this literally abounds, Pinus pendula, Viburnum grandiflora, aSymphoria! Crataegus 2 species, Mespilus microphyllus, Lantonea, Jasminumluteum, Berberis asiatica and obovata, Plectranthus canus, Elaeagnusfragrans, Stellaria cana, Colquhounia, _Indigofera_ sp. Altera, Baptisiadid not re-appear, Euphorbia continues, as does the Celastrus noticedyesterday, which commences at 8, 500 feet. 

Cycnia re-appears, it is in fruit, the cotyledons are not conduplicate. In the fields Stachys, Potentilla (common), Brumus, Lamium of Khegumpa, Cynoglossum, Thlaspi, Datura in waste places, Conaria, rare, Imperata!Scabiosa of Bulphai. 

A low shrub abounded on the road sides and walls, having all thecharacters of Plumbago, a Lantonea likewise abounded, Fragaria, Swertia, Taraxacum, Cardamina lilacina, Herminu sp. , Marchantia, Astragalus, Ranunculus; Carex, Potentilla supina, Potamogeton, Clematis grata, Poplars were seen; of these, Taraxacum very common. Quercus robur re-appears towards Lamnoo, as well as Juglans and Populus. 

Weeping cypresses about villages, Hordeum hexastichum is commonlycultivated, A. Buddlaea floribus lilacinis noticed yesterday was found, its range is 8, 500 to 7, 500 feet, Zanthoxyla here. 

A cuckoo was shot; this bird would seem to be as in Europe attended bythe Yunx, at least a cry very similar to that of that bird was heard. Lysimachia of Punukha, Campanula re-appears. 

The most common bird is Lanuis. The sombre-coloured dove too is rathercommon. The wheat cultivated here is poor, a good deal of the Bromusoccurs with it. Astragalus is common on the borders of the fields, andin some of them Ervum, Lamium and Vicia. 

The whole upper surface of the column of Aristolochia of Telagoung, isviscid and stigmatic, and likewise the margins of the depressions inwhich the anthers are lodged, it is certainly akin to Rafflesiaceae. 

_May 12th_. --Proceeded to Chupcha, our march to, and indeed beyondPanga, seven miles from Lamnoo, was through exactly similar country. Thehills naked or clothed with firs, the path lay along the river Teemboochiefly, but occasionally we met with one or two stiff ascents. Onreaching Panga it was determined to push on to Chupcha, which was said tobe but a short way off; we started, and descended after some time to theriver, above which Panga is elevated about 1, 000 feet. We continuedalong the river until we commenced to ascend towards Chupcha, this ascentwas very long and rather steep, the road tolerably good. We foundChupcha to be ten miles from Panga, and 8, 000 feet high, the greatestheight we crossed being 8, 600 feet, and this day we were told, that allour climbings had ceased. The road was generally bad, and well furnishedwith rocks: in one place we passed from 100 yards along the perpendicularface of a cliff, the Teemboo roaring underneath, the road was built upwith slippery slabs of stone. The country was generally very pretty, thescenery along the river being very picturesque. We passed a waterfall ofconsiderable size, which is Turner's Minzapeeza. After leaving Panga wecame on an uninhabited country, nor did we see more than one village, until we reached the ridge immediately above Chupcha, 1, 000 feet abovethis, there is a very large village inhabited by Gylongs, the bare summitof the hill rising an equal height above it; snow visible to the south. The greatest distance we descended was 6, 500 feet, the greatest height8, 500 feet. The distance seventeen miles, the longest march we have yethad. 

The vegetation was nearly the same up to the time we turned off towardsChupcha, it was characterized by a profusion of Rosa, among which theCrataega, Symphorema, (which is less common than towards Woollakkoo, )Rhamnus, Viburnum grandiflorum, Pinus pendula, Thymus, Cycnium. 

In grassy banks of fields between Panga and Lamnoo, Astragalus, Ervum, Vicia, Aster major, Rumex, Agrostia, in fields Hieraciae sp. , Cariciasp. , Lactuca, Bromus. 

Salix pendula about villages. After leaving Panga we came on to a placecalled Minzapeeza, here Adiantum, Aspidium? Hamamelidea, Cedrela? Rhus, Galium, Tussilago, Saxifraga ligularis, Valeriana violifolia, Smilaxflexuosa, Aruncus, Sarcococea, Azalea. 

Rhododendron minus recommenced after leaving the river towards Panga, astraggling cedar or two occurred, Populus rotundifol. Very common, Gaultheria arborea. 

About Panga, Lithospermum, Oxalis corniculata, Umbellifera, from theflowers of which _moud_ is made, Rubus, Arabis, Taxacum, Dipsacus. 

Beyond the waterfall the Quercus robur became common, forming beautifulwoods, it continued throughout until we re-descended to the river, range7 to 7, 500 feet. In these woods formed likewise by Pinus pendula, Convallaria cirrhosa appeared, Rubia cordifolia, hispida, Parispolyphylla, Aralia cissifolia, Mitella, Ribes! Spiraea, Asparagus, Epipactis, Avularia, Houttuynia! Arum viviparum on rocks, Duchesmium, Populus oblonga occurred also, Coriaria! Hedera common, Benthamia common. 

On rocks along the river, Peperomia, 4-phylla, Populus oblonga, Acersterculiacea! Symphoria alia! Indigofera, Salix, Cedrela, Sassafras, arbor facie, Gordonia, Vitis, Syringa, Serissa, Buddlaea, Sedum on rocks, Eriophon ditto, Campanula cana, Pinus pendula, Rosa, Convallariumcirrhosa, Polygonum robustum, foliis cordatis. 

The ascent up to 7, 500 feet, was marked by similar vegetation: up to thispoint the prevailing shrubs gradually disappeared, they were never socommon as about Panga. Quercus robur having ceased, was succeeded byQuercus ferruginea, which is much like Quercus ilecifolia, and has verycoriaceous leaves, this again at 7, 500 feet, was succeeded by Quercusilecifolia, Dipsacus up to this, Pteris aquilina, Gaultheria arborea. 

At 7, 600 feet, Rhododendron oblonga, a most beautiful species, Calycediscoideo commenced, as also Rhodora deflexa and Rhodoracea ochrolenea, which is, I think, that I before noticed as R. Elliptica, foliis basicordatis subtus argenteis et punctatis, Euphorbia occurs also here, asalso the Rosa, Berberis asiatica. 

At 8, 000 feet, the trees were covered with grey lichens, and assumed theusual highly picturesque appearance: noticed Primula Stuartii in flower(Symphoria! ceased), Euphorbia, Gaultheria nummularifolia commences, Artemisia major, Crataegus odoratus continues, Saxifraga ligularis commonup to this, Ribes commences, Gaultheria of Bulphai, Galum, Hyperici sp. , Lilium giganteum, Clematis grata, Populus species, do not ascend abovethis. 

At 8, 500 feet, Rhododendron minus, Rhododendron oblonga, ochroleucum, Coccineum appears, Ribes, Smilax sanguinea, Gaultheria of Bulphai verycommon, arborea stunted, Limonia major, Clematis grata! Rhododendronhispida, Potentilla, Pteris aquilina, Berberis asiatica, Mespilusmicrophyllus, Gnaphalium, Swertia, Viola, Patrinum! Elaeagnus fragrans!Thymus, which ranges from 6 to 10, 000 feet, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, Cycnii sp. , Mimulus, Rhodora deflexa, Pinus pendula, Quercus ilecifolia, both stunted, Pteris aquilina. 

The descent to the village was about 500 feet, Arenarium on rocks, Mimulus, Viola, Rumex, Juncus, Acorus veronica, Anagallis, Pythonium ofBlake, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, Carex, Mespilus microphyllus: pinechatterers throughout, at least above 7, 000 feet. 

The summit, which was certainly 9, 500 feet, was completely bare: Pinuspendula ascends a long way. 

Chupcha--Hordeum hexastichor in beautiful order, the chief cultivation. Red-legged crow; larger dove. The form of the country traversed is asfollows:-

[Teemboo to Chupcha: m291. Jpg]

At Diglea we had an opportunity of seeing the mode of building in thispart of Bootan; the houses are made of mud, which is trampled and beatdown by men, who perform sundry strange evolutions while so employed; themud is beat down in a frame-work; it is from the different layers formedthat the lines seen outside finished houses result. The mode is slow, but must give great firmness. 

_May 14th_. --Ascended to the Gylong village, above Chupcha, and then tothe naked ridge. The village may be estimated as being 8, 700 or 8, 800feet above the sea, and that part of the ridge to which I ascended as9, 800 or 10, 000 feet. The ascent is uninterrupted up to the village; itwinds through a fine fir wood, after diverging from the road to Panga, after that it is quite open, scarcely a shrub being met with until theridge is surmounted. On turning to its northern face, woody vegetationbecomes pretty abundant, and 500 feet below, woods occur. This iscontrary to what usually happens; the south faces of mountains beingsupposed to be better wooded than the others, but in Bootan thedifference would seem to be due to the piercing winds blowing from south, or up the ravine of the Teemboo. The scenery was very pretty, both inthe woods before reaching the village, and from the ridge: vastquantities of snow visible to the north and north-east. I ascended towithin 1, 000 feet of snow, and I think that at this season, an elevationof 11, 000 feet is required _in open places_ to secure the presence ofsnow: it is obvious that local circumstances, such as shelter, etc. Maycause it to descend nearly to 9, 000 feet, and it is as obvious that snowwill descend lower down a mountain of 15, 000 feet high than one of12, 000; the difference in the beds of snow causing a greater reduction oftemperature in the one than in the other. In an isolated mountain, anelevation of 11, 000 feet will be required for the presence of snow inMay. 

At 8, 000 feet, Baptisia, Viburnum canum, Umbellifera toxicaria, Colquhounia, Deutzia, the Symphoria of Teemboo. 

At 8, 200 feet, Salix, Abies spinulosa straggling, Rhododendronmicrophylla commences, the bruised has a terebenthaceous odour, Ilex, Gaultheria flexuosa, Parus major: variegated shortwing, Papiliomachaonires. 

At 8, 300 feet, Saxifraga ligularis. 

At 8, 400 to 8, 500 feet, Limonia, Viburnum grandiflorum or canum, Berberisasiatica, Mespilus microphyllus, Populus oblonga, Rhododendron ochrolena, Clematis grata viola lutea, * Epipactis, Hemiphragma. 

At 8, 700 feet, Rhododendron microphyllum very common, Ribes, Bupleurisp. , * Rosa fructibus hispidis, * Rubia hispida, Sambucus, Berberisintegrifolia, an vero distincta. 

At 8, 800 feet, Viola pusilla, Fragaria vesca and lutea, Baptisia, Rosa, Sphaerostemma, Clematis grata, Pinus pendula, etc. 

At 9, 000 feet, commencement of sward, no trees, except stunted shrubs ofPinus pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Baptisia, Gnaphalium Pedicularis, *Rosa, Bistorta, * leaves with margins not united to the margins ofpitchers of Nepenthes and Cephalotus, Pteris aquilina, Prunella, Rhododendron microphyllum, Euphorbia, Taxaxacum, Potentilla, Thymus, Primula Stuartii. 

At 9, 100 feet, Hyperica brachiata of Moflong. 

At 9, 300 feet, Morina Wallichiana, Osmundioid, Dipsacus, Scabiosa?capitulo nutanta, Verbascum, Juncus, Epilobia sp. 

At 9, 400 feet, Salix shrubby, Cyperus fuscescens of Tassangsee, dwarfedLarix. 

At 9, 500 feet, Anemona aurea commences, covering in some places thesward; it straggles down in favourable places with Iris angustifolia, to9, 300 feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron microphyllum, Gnaphalia, Euphrasia. 

At 9, 800 feet, southern face of ridge bare, northern thickety, consistingof Rhododendron fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis punctatolepidotis, Salix, Berberis, Pyrus aria, Bambusa, Tetranthera. 

In wet sheltered spots, Iris angustifolia, Aconitum, foliis aconitoideum, on the sward Euphorbia radians. Below this a little, woods commencechiefly of Bogh Pata, Cerasus, Salix, Rosa fructibus hispidis, Acers, Abelia? Viburnum niveum, Hydrangea arbuscula, non-scandens, Berberisintegrifolia. The woods are open, the open spaces occupied by remains oflast summer's vegetation, as Compositae, Umbelliferae, Aquilegium, aplant five or six feet high, folii aconitoidie, etc. Epilobium. 

Among these in the woods, Trillia sp. , Saxifraga reniformis, LiliaceaBrodidoid, Viola, Primula purpurea, a lovely species, Aconiti sp. , Papaveracea hirsuta foliis, Aconitoid very common, Orchideae, Ribessanguina, Composita penduliflora, Arenaria pusilla of above Telagoung, Polygoni sp. , pusilla repens hirsuit foliis cordata ovatis, velreniformibus subtus purpurescent, Salvia nubicola? Euphorbia coccinea. 

Abies densa appears, as also close to the Gylong village, from thiselevation upwards, it is common. 

Abies spinulosa common on north face at 9, 000 feet, Abies pendula ascendson south side as high as 9, 300 feet, but is stunted beyond 9, 000 feet, itdoes not exist on north face. 

Primula Stuartii throughout, very abundant. 

The plants most limited were Papaveracea, Aconitum folium aconitoideum, Saxif. Reniformis, Primula purpuria, Euphorbia radians, Rhododendroncereum, mentioned above, and another at 9, 800 feet with similar leaves, but normal flowers, Abelia, Cerasus, Trillii sp. , Anemona, Iris, Bistorta, Ribes, A. Densa. 

The most dispersed are Euphorbia coccinea, Salix, Bogh Pata, Mespilusmicrophyllus, Cyperus fuscus, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendronmicrophyllum. 

Hordeum hexastichum gives fine produce here; nothing can exceed it inappearance, oats also occur mixed with it, but is not sown, at least, itoccurs rarely on walls, Arabis, Magus stolonifer, Juglans in villages, (Ribes Juniperus in the Gylong village), Acorus, Carex, Stellaria cana, Media, Caltha, and Thlaspi. 

The temperature is delightful, thermometer 46 degrees at 7 A. M. , 52degrees in the middle of the day. 

_May 15th_. --Left Chupcha for Chuka, distant seventeen miles. Ourmarch commenced by a very steep and indeed almost precipitous descent tothe nullah, at the foot of Chupcha, of 1, 800 feet. Thence we ascendedgradually until we reached a temple visible from Chupcha, at which placewe returned to the course along the Teemboo. The remainder of the roadundulating, varying in level from 6, 000 to 6, 500 feet, until we commencedthe descent to Chuka, which was long and tedious: we reached this at 5. 5P. M. The road latterly was very bad, we passed Punukha, a small village, about 300 feet below our path. The mountains closing in the Teemboocontinue lofty, at least 9, 000 feet. Iris, cedars, and Abies densa, werecommon on the loftier parts. 

We passed some beautiful places, indeed the march throughout was pretty. The vegetation was beautiful, owing to the quantity of water on the road, a stream occupying each hollow, round many of which we wound. Glades andpieces of green sward were not uncommon. 

The Lamium of Bulphai is found about Chupcha. On the descent to thenullah the following plants were found. 

At 7, 000 feet, Iris commences, with a species of Lychnis, ground bare androcky, Umbellifera cana, Umb. , from which _moud_ is prepared, common. 

At 6, 800 feet, Quercus ferruginea commences, on rocks here Stemodiumruderalis, Santonica of Panga, etc. , Convallaria cirrhosa. 

At 6, 500 feet, Hedera common, Aristolochia tetrarima, Berberis obovata, Viburnum caerulescens, Filix ferrugineo tomentosa, Pteris dealbata. 

Iris common to 6, 500 feet, continues lower down, but scarce. Along thenullah, which is a middling-sized torrent, Rhus, Cederela toone, Acersterculiacea, Hamamelis, Fici sp. , scandens, Rhus, Juglandifolia! Populusoblonga, Sassafras, on the ascent to the temple, Populus of very largesize, and the above trees. Fraxinus floribunda, Osmundia in profusion, Aristolochia tetrarima, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Prunella, Fragaria vesca, Duchesnum, Sarcococea, Elaeagnus fragrans, Galium of Panga cascade, Corydalis, which continues to Chuka, but is scarce below 5, 000 feet, Deutzia, Lilium giganteum, Uvularia very common, Primula Stuartii, Woodwardia (scarce), Pythonium pallidium, Campanula cana, Panax herbacieae2 species, Rhododendron agaleoides of ridge above Chupcha, Buddlaea cana, Ranunculus of Taseeling, Benthamia, Anemona ranunculacea, Buxus, Delphinum sp. ? common, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Jasminum lutium, Conaria. This ascent was about 500 feet. Long-tailed pie seen here, red-billed shrikelet, first met with towards Tumashoo, common now as far downas 4, 500 feet. 

On passing the temple, or rather before coming to it, we changed thevegetation which became of the ordinary _dry_ character. Woods of Q. Ferruginea mixed with Pinus pendula, Benthamia, Pteris aquilina, Viburnumcaerulescens, Conaria, Polygonum of Teemboo, Rhododendron minus, Gaultheria arborea. 

The remainder of the march consisted of a series of winding round spurs:at about an average elevation of 6, 000 feet found a Pythonium foliispedalis, spad. Apice filiformo recurvo, vel erecto, spathe viridi, Didymocarpea odora contuso terebinthaceo, Solanum nigrum, Succulenturticeae, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Gnaphalium, Polygonum globiferum, Scirpuseriophorus, Hippocratia angulata, Mitella, in damp spots, Cycnium, butrare, Sarcococea, Impatiens two species, one at 6, 500 feet, with acreeping plant, foliis ranunculaceis floribus solitariis hypocrateriformalbis. No Buxus or Delphinum was observed, in any other glens than thefirst crossed. Alnus became common soon, the pines disappeared, Osmundiacommon, Primula rotundifolia, Paris polyphylla, Bletia as of Churra atPunukha, Sphaeropteris. 

In some places Rhododendron minus common, and with it Quercus ferruginea, Rubia hirsuta, not uncommon throughout as far as 15, 000 feet, Thalictroides majus, Houttuynia, Betula. 

In glades, Smilax gaultherifolia, in a wood round the marsh a Pomaceoustree: on the march, Swertia, Peloria, Carex stricta, and of Chupcha, Spiranthes rubriflora, Berberis pinnata, Saxifraga of Bulphai occur here. 

Still further on, the forest assumed the appearance of those towardsKhegumpa. Q. Robur, recommences, cedars straggle down; Pinus pendula, more common, Arenariae sp. , Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hottoneoidesranunculofolia common, Luzula, Sedi sp. , Sambucus common throughout inshady spots, Radsurae sp. , Daphne papyracea, rare, Acer sterculiaceacommon, Sabia, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Hamiltonia, this last common to4, 500 feet. 

On wet rocks Hutchinsia, Arenaria, succulent Urticea. In woodsCucurbitacea cessifolia, Ajugae sp. , Polygonum rheoides. On open spots, Benthamium in flower, Gaultheria arborea, here of large size, pines ceasewithout changing the elevation, Q. Ferruginea ceased, this is limited todry spots. 

The first change indicated by the appearance of Laurineae, and Symplocosamong oaks and chesnuts. The woods continued thick for some time, but oncommencing the descent, which is gradual, especially at first, Q. Roburis common, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus. 

At 5, 500 feet Hottonia, Rubia hirsuta, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Phytolacea, also at 6, 500 feet, and as low as 4, 000 feet, Senecioscandens, Verbenacea of Dgin appears, Uvularia, Duchesnia, Polygonumrheoides. 

Umbellifera gigantea, Potentilla supina appear, Pythonium recurvum, Rhus, Dipsacus of Churra, Alnus, Pomacea macrophylla, Stauntonia angustifolia, Photinea parviflora, Benthamea disappears, in flower at least, Didymocarpea, Rhamnus, and also at 5, 000 feet, Fragaria vesca, in fruit!Paris, Curculigo pygmaea appears, Sedum continues and ceases at 4, 500feet, Ranunculus of Taseeling found also as low as 3, 600 feet, Daphnenutans appears. This found first near Taseeling, found as low as 4, 000feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron minus, Viburnum caerulescenscontinue, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Rubus deltoideus appears. 

At 4, 500 feet, a Malvaceae Sidoides, Erythrina, Rosa fragrans, Pythoniumsp. Majus, spadicis apice filiformi 2-pedali, Incerta of Taseeling, Ribesioides, Quercus ferruginoides, Indigofera major, Berberis obovata, in fruit. 

At 4, 400 feet, Cuscuta, Hamiltonia, Hottoneoides, Daphne pendula velnutans, Impatiens, Mimosa, Menispermum tropaeolifolia, Celastrinia sp. , Panax crucifolia, Hypericum japonicum. 

At 4, 300 feet, Conyza nivea, Q. Robur, Indigofera major, of Tassgoung, etc. Gaultheria arborea, Hedychium appears! Buddlaea of Nulka, Maesasalicifolia!

At 4, 200 feet, Thibaudia lanceolata appears, ranges between 4, 200 and2, 000 feet, Sanicula, Cynoglossum, Zyziphi sp. 

Along the bed of the river, Zizyphus arborea, Urtica, foliis apicaeerosis, Berberis obovata, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Elaeagnus fragrans, and Stellaria cana, occur, the last ranges between 3 and 6, 000 feet, Thlaspi, Polygonum globifera, Dendrobium pictum, Verbenacea of Dgin, Clematis, petiolis basi connatis demum induratus majus, Magnolia, Randiaof Punukha, Liriodendron tulipif. , Apocynum nerufolium. 

At Chuka, Ficus elastica, but not flourishing, Musa, Salix pendula, Phytolacea, Buckwheat, Crucifera cordifructus, Sanicula, Stellaria cana, Thibaudia lanceolata, Cynoglossum, Vandea, Parkioides common. 

The most limited plants are Iris, Silene, Aristolochia tetrarima vixinfra 6, 000 feet, Buxus, Delphinioid, Fraxinus non infra 6, 000 feet, Epipactis ditto, Hutchinsia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Mitella, Carex strictaof Chupcha, _Petunia_, Smilax gaultherifolia, Osmundia non infra 5, 500feet, Hydrangeacea ditto, Cucurbitacea cissifolia, found about Suddiya, etc. 

The most diffused, Hottonia, Q. Robur, Gaultheria arborea, 5 to 3, 500feet, Corydalis. 

The subtropical forms, Mimosa, Impatiens, occurrence of fleshy Urticea, Ficus elastica, but not flourishing, Musa, Salix pendula, Buckwheat, Urtica urens, peaches, Stellaria cana, Crucifera cordifructus, Panaxcurcifolia, Andropogon arbusculoid, Rubia cordata. 

_May 16th_. --The fort of Chuka not being whitewashed, is notconspicuous: its situation is strong, and against Bhooteas would beimpregnable. It occupies a low hill arising from the centre of thevalley, one side of which is washed by the Teemboo or Tchien-chiw. Theroom we were lodged in was a good one. The village is a mean one, andconsisting of three or four houses. 

We crossed the river by a suspension bridge much inferior to that ofBenka, and then rose gradually and inconsiderably, following the Teemboo. To this we subsequently descended by a most precipitous road built forthe most part on the face of a huge cliff: we reached the Teemboo at itsjunction with a small torrent; the tongue of land here was strewn withhuge rocks, and bore evidences of the power of the torrents, for itevidently had been once a hill, such as that we had just descended. Thence we continued ascending, following the river, from which however wesoon diverged to our right, but not far. The road was rugged beyonddescription. As we approached Murichom, it improved somewhat, but wasstill very bad. We reached this place which is visible for some distanceat 5 P. M. ; the march being one of eighteen miles. No villages occurreden route. The hills were densely wooded to the summits and much loweredin height than those to which we had been accustomed. Passed twowaterfalls, one less high, but more voluminous than the other, is theMinzapeeza of Turner; both these occurred on the left bank of the river. Minzapeeza, is a fall of great height, but the body of water is small. 

The vegetation to-day partook much of the subtropical character, almostall boreal plants being left behind. We ascended and descended between3, 000 to 4, 500 feet near Chuka, Parkioides, Mimosa arborea! and M. Frutex. Magnolia! Rubia munjista, Impatiens! Cucurbitacea!

Oxyspora latifolia! Rosa fragrans, Incerta ribesioides, Piper! Urticaheterophylla! Wendlandia! Phytolacea, Daphne nutans, Rottleria! Curculigoorchediflora, Acer, Eurya pubescens, Rhus, Alnus! Adamia, Gordonia! Q. Robur reappears at a lower elevation than before seen: Dipterocarpioidesarbor vasta trunco ramoso! Smilax auriculata! Pothos pinnatifid! Briedliaoblonga! Corydalis, Dipsacus, Acanthaceae common, Rubiaceae of a tropicalcharacter, such as Ophiorhizae; Celastrus! Pythonium majus, Tetrantheramacrophylla! Quercus coriacea! Gaultheria arborea scarce, Deutzia on thedescent to the Teemboo, Macrocapnos, Sterculia platanifolia, Melicalatifolia! Arundo! Achyranthes densa! Labiata spinosa of Khegumpa orPhlomis, Labiata, Quercoides. The rocks on the river side are coveredwith Epiphytical Orchideae; Saurauja sterculifolia, Pythonium pallidum, Elaeagnus fragrans. 

Along the banks of the Teemboo, Pandanus! Rhododendron azaleoides, R. Pulchrum, Lyellia, Begonia picta, Composita arborea! Ficus! on ascentabove its banks, Dioscorea! Elaeocarpus! Acrosticum atratum! Convallariumoppositifolia, Thibaudia loranthiflora! Pogostemon of Dgin! Leea! Theonly northern plant a species of Viola; Otochilus linearis! Entada!Kydia! Mussaenda! Macrocapnos altera of Yen, Callicarpa arborea! Panaxaculeato palmiformis supra decompositae of Dgin! Solanum farinacium!Urena lobata! Marlea, Panicum plicatum! Before ascending to Murichom wemade two descents to two streams, crossed by common wooden bridges: thatnearer Murichom being the largest; elevation at 2, 500 feet. Here tree-fern; Pythonium majus, Duchesnia, Lysimacha, Begonia of Punukha!Caryophyllea scandens, Urtica gigas! Modeceoides exembryonata! Commelina!Combretum sp. ! Baehmeriae! Piper spica caudata pendula and anotherspecies!! Euphorbia! Galina of Panga, Croton malvifolius! Bambusa major!Bauhinia! Engeldhaardtii!

Although we subsequently ascended 1500 feet, very little change occurred:no re-appearance of tropical forms, Sterculiacea novum of Moosmai, Adamia, Volkameria! serrata, Triumfetta mollis! Briedlia ovalis ofChilleeri! Gortnera! Corydalis! Hydrangeacae! Melastoma malabathrica!

The march was very tiresome, some of the ranges passed were high and wellclothed with firs. Those marked thus* are subtropical or tropical, andone glance will show their predominance: only Corydalis straggles down. The woods were in many places damp, in others dry: it was obvious thatless rain had fallen between Chupcha and Chuka, than in other situations:a large proportion of Laurineae and Acanthaceae appeared in the woods, with Gordonia: the oaks and chesnuts when they did present themselvesbore a tropical form, pointed out by their coriaceous undivided or merelyserrated leaves. I certainly never saw such a predominance of tropicalforms, at such an elevation as 3, 500 or 4, 000 feet. 

For Lyellia I had been hunting for three years, but never thought oflooking for it at low elevations; as it was I believe given out to be anative of high places. Of birds, Bucco, Picus intermedius, green pigeon, azure shrikelet, occurred. 

_May 17th_. --Murichom is a small village of eight or nine thatchedhouses, it is well and prettily situated: about it maize and wheat are incultivation, Ficus, Hoya, Dendrobium, Croton malvaefolius, Meliacea, Cedrela Toona, orange, Verbesina, Datura, Artemisia major, Echites, infact it would be difficult to point out an elevational plant. The sameremark applies to the march to Gygoogoo, distant twelve miles, andsituated 500 feet below the road, but still it is about the same level asMurichom. The march commenced with a steep descent, followed by asteeper ascent, then winding along, in and out, at an average elevationof 5, 000 feet. The road was very bad, rocky and rugged as usual, P. AndB. Passed the village, and pushed on to Buxa, a distance of twenty miles, which place they reached at 7 P. M. At Murichom, Ficus cordata, fructibuspyriformibus, Clerodendron infortunata, Adamia, Spilanthes, Melastomamalabathrica, Bignonia, Pentaptera. The Oollook or Simia Hylobates, ofUpper Assam. 

Scarcely any thing worth noticing occurred; the vegetation beingprecisely the same. No oaks or chesnuts, at least comparatively few:Elaeocarpus, Rhus, Gordonia are the most common trees; Pythonium common, Hoya rotundifolia. Gygoogoo, a small village of two or three houses, waspassed. 

_May 18th_. --Marched to Buxa, ascending from Gygoogoo over a wretchedrocky road, winding in and out. No water was to be had until we reacheda ridge from which to Buxa is one continued descent. This ridge isbetween 5 and 6, 000 feet, and yet there is scarcely a change in thevegetation. Pythonium abounded, especially P. Majus, which literallyoccurred in profusion. The trees towards the top of the ridge werecovered with moss, but all appeared subtropical; a few chesnuts, E. Spinosissima occurred, Bambusa nodosis, verticillatis, and spinosis. 

En route thither, Pholidota imbricata, Thib. Loranthiflora, Araliaterebinthacea, Rottleria foliis peltatis, Ranunculus of Taseeling, Meniscum majus, Byttneria ferox, Caladium foliis medio discoloratissaepius atratis, Gnetum, Ixora, Choulmoogra, Phlogacanthi sp. , Corisanthes of Sudya, Acer platanifolia, Croton foliis oblongisirregularis dentato-lobatis occurred before, between 2, 500 to 3, 500 feet, Calamus, wild plantains as before, Gordonia, Rhus, Mimosa, Rottleria, Wallichia, Sida cuneata, Tradescantia cordata, AEschynanthus fulgens, etaltera, Tupistra, Lobelia baccifera, Costus, tree-fern, as high as 5, 000feet, Bambusa fasciculata; of birds, the large Bucco. 

At 5, 000 feet, Thibaudia serrata, and on this side, as low as 2, 500 feet, myrtifolia, Gordonia, Pythonium majus and medium, cinnamon, Piper, Acerplatanifolia, Mucuna, Angiopteris, Saurauja ferruginea. 

At 5, 300 feet, Polygonia pinnatifolia, Hookeria macrophylla, Araliascandens, etc. As before. 

On descent nothing remarkable, except steepness: same vegetation. Pythonium majus not below 3, 000 feet, Guttiferae at 3, 000 feet, Acanthaceae, Carduaceus 2, 800 feet. 

At 2, 500 feet, Buchanania undulata, Hyalostemma undulatum, Roydsia. 

What can be the cause of this tropical elevation at such altitudes? Buxais hot enough for any tropical plants, as jacks, mangoes, Cactus, etc. Are found in fine order. It is not attributable to a gradual rise, asthe ascent from this to 5, 500 feet, is excessively steep. It must beowing to local causes modifying the climate: at 5, 000 feet on the Dginroute, there are many elevational plants, indeed more than ofsubtropical. 

It must not be forgotten that no Pinus longifolia exists on this routeafter leaving Telagoung. 

Buxa is a rather pretty place, but as usual poor: the Doompa's house isthe only decent one in the place, the others, amounting to eight or ten, are common huts. The big house occupies an elevation in the centre ofthe pass, being cut off from the neighbouring hill on either side by aravine, one of which is now quite dry, the other affords a scanty supplyof water. The hills are covered with jungle, the only clearing beingabout Buxa, and this, except the flat summit of the hill, is overrun withbushes, Capparis modecea, Croton malvaefolia, Menisperma tropaeolifolia. Bergerae 2 species, Ixora, Brucea same as of the plains, Atriplex, Tournefortia of plains, Maesa macrophylla, Mimosa scandens, Ficuselastica in good order, jacks, mangoes, oranges, plantains, Tabernamontana, Calamus, Cedrela Toona, are found. 

Black pheasants, Bulbuls, Drongoles, Oorooa, Bucco, green pigeons. Long-tailed blue-crested shrike, etc. Are found here. The Doompa, or ChongSoobah, is a man of no rank, and the place itself is of no importance, except as the pass or entrance between the mountains of Bootan and theplains of Bengal. 

The descent from Buxa is gradual at first and not unpicturesque: afterpassing a small chokey about half a mile from Buxa, sandstone of a coarsenature commences. The descent is very steep, and continues so untilwithin a short distance of a place called Minagoung, at which thebullocks are unladen at least of heavy baggage. The remaining descent isvery gradual, and continues so for several miles. The march throughoutand until the level of the plains is reached, was through tree jungle. The underwood being either scanty or consisting of grass. 

On reaching the plains, the usual Assamese features presented themselves, viz. Vast expanses of grass, intersected here and there with strips ofjungle. Reached Chichacootta about 3 P. M. : distance eighteen miles, ofwhich about fifteen were over either level or very gradually slopingground. No villages occurred, and only one path struck off from the Buxaone. We passed two or three halting places. 

The vegetation throughout was subtropical. At the same elevation asBuxa, noticed Cassia lanceolata, Torenia the common Leucas, Bheir, Solanum quercifolia, Banyan, Alstonia, Styrax, Caryota, Elephantopus, Osbeckia linearis, Herminioides, Wedelia scandens. 

At 1, 500 feet, Celastrus guttiferoid, Malvacea digyna, of which I foundflowers on the path, Koempfera terminal, Antidesma, Anthericum, Echitesarborea, Careya, Mimosa scandens, Pavetta, Rubiacea alia, Lepidostachys, Lagerstroemia grandiflora, Leea crispa, Costus, Thunbergia grandiflora, Gordonia, Commelina, Phyllanthus, Briedlia, Dioscorea, Cassia fistula. 

As we approached a lower level, the same plants continued: a Dilleniavery common, Urena lobata, Hedera terebenthacea: the root is in somecases like figs, Spathodea, Nauclea, Sterculia carnosa, foliis palmatis, Dalbergia, Panax, Semecarpus, Rhaphis trivialis, Cymbid. Alvifolium, Sarcanthus guttatus common, Apocynea fauce, 10-glandulata, Ixora, etc. 

Saul was not common, nor did I see one tree of any size; it commencedabout the margin of the Toorai. 

Among the grasses forming the underwood of the Toorai and the grassymasses clothing the plains, Sacchara were the most common and the mostconspicuous: next to these a species of Rottboellia. Sciurus Bengmoriaoccurred, Hemarthria, Greweia edulis, Leea crispa, Crinum in the Toorai, Viburnum of Sudya, Millingtonia pinnata, Volkameria serrata, LabiataSudyensis, Mussaenda erecta, humilis, Cinchona, Premna herbacea, Phoenixpumila. 

Arrived at Chichacootta, a small village, situated in an open grassyplain, miserably stockaded; and lodged in a good well elevated house. Thefollowing day started and reached Cooch Behar territory, after crossing aconsiderable but fordable stream. The contrast between the desolateterritories of Bootan, and the sheet of cultivation presented by CoochBehar was striking. 

The same contrast continued until we reached the Company's territories, and its less cultivated portions along the bed of the Brahmapootra. Theonly plant worth notice on the route, was a species of Swertia; thevegetation being almost precisely the same as in Upper Assam. 

_Rangamutty_, _Bhooruwa_. 

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CHAPTER XIV. 

_Journey with the Army of the Indus_. _From Loodianah__to Candahar through the Bolan Pass_. 

I reached Loodianah on the 10th December 1838, after a dawk journey offourteen and a half days. After passing the Rajemahal Hills, the countrypresents an uniform aspect, but becoming more sandy as one proceeds tothe northward. The hills alluded to, form a low range, the only one ofany height being that called Pursunath. They are well wooded, the under-vegetation being grassy. Undulating ground bare of trees, but providedwith shrubs, is passed before coming on the wooded tracts, the vegetationof these present much similarity with that of even 31 degrees N. The_Dhak_, Pommereulla, Zizzyphus, occurring. The _Mahooa_ occurs inabundance on the hills, but does not reach much beyond Cawnpore. Thecountry from the hills upwards, is almost entirely cultivated; very fewtrees occurring, and those that do, are almost entirely mango. TheBorassus does not extend in abundance much beyond Benares, but the_Khujoor_ is found everywhere in sandy soil. 

Loodianah is situated about five miles south of the Sutledge, in themidst of a sandy country, very bare of trees. The fort and Capt. Wade'shouse are situated on a rising ground, at the base of which runs anullah, a tributary of the Sutledge. There is much cultivation about theplace, chiefly of grain, barley and wheat, bajerow, cotton, the latterbad, but there is much land uncultivated. The surface is often flat andsomewhat broken; in such places there is much of a low prickly _Bheir_, much used for making fences. This and _Dhak_ jungle, which occurs instrips, form two marked features, the _Dhak_ occurs in patches. Thegrasses, which occasionally form patches, are Andropogoneous;Anathericum, Pommereulla, and Eleusine occur. 

Sugar-cane occurs; it is cultivated in thick masses, it is poor, andalways fenced with the _Bheir_. 

The most common trees are the mango, Parkinsonia, _Babool_, Acacia alterababooloides, a Leguminous Mimosoid tree, Tamarisk, a middling sized treeand very pretty, Ficus. 

The hedges about the cantonments, etc. Are formed by prickly pear; muchRicinus occurs in waste places, and it appears to me to be different fromthat to the south. 

The most varied vegetation occurs along the nullah, but consists entirelyof aquatic or sub-aquatic plants; among these the most common are two orthree Scirpi, particularly a large rush-like one, a large Sparganium, avery narrow leaved Typha, Hydrocharis! a pointed leaved Villarsia, Potomogetons three or four, one only natant; Chara, Naias, Ceratophyllum, Ulva, Valisneria, Marsilea, Herpestes, Jussieua repens, Fumaria common infields. 

The town is a large bustling place: the houses low and regular, and of asomewhat picturesque style, built of brick, the streets are wide andregular, having been laid out by our officers. There is a good deal oftrade, and the place is filled with Cashmereans, who may be seen workingtheir peculiar shawls, and producing very beautiful dyes. 

_January 22nd and 23rd_. --Violent south-east winds during the day;abating at night. 

_February 4th_. --Arrived at Hurreekee, having halted on the previousday at Mokhoo, a small village, with the usual style of mud fort. Themarches were as follows: from Loodianah to Ghosepoora is eight miles; toBoondree, eight miles; Tiraia, ten miles; to Durrumkote, ten miles; toFuttygurh, ten miles; to Hurreekee, ten miles. Thus Hurreekee is atleast eighteen miles from Durrumkote, although we had been told it wasonly five. The country near Loodianah, and, perhaps as far asDurrumkote, is occasionally very sandy, but beyond that it is easilytraversed by hackeries. Being much less cultivated and overrun withgrasses, among which Andropogons are the most numerous and conspicuous, these grasses are either coarse and stout or wiry and fine, should affordexcellent cover for game, which however, does not seem to be veryabundant. Very few trees are visible in any direction, and althoughneither very much cultivation nor many villages are visible, it wouldappear from charts that the country is very populous. The mostinteresting plant was a species of Fagonia. 

Durrumkote is the largest of the villages we passed, and has arespectable looking mud and brick fort. Inside the village is filthy;the houses wretchedly small, and the streets very narrow. It is much thesame sort of village as other Seikh ones. In the bazars cocoanuts werenoticed. All the Seikhs eat opium, and very often in a particular way byinfusing the poppy-heads, from which the seeds have been extracted by ahole in the side; great numbers of these are found in the bazars. 

Hurreekee is on Runjeet's side. I crossed the Sutledge, which is between400 to 500 yards broad with a sufficiently rapid stream, by a bridge ofboats built by the Seikhs, under the superintendence of Mr. Roobalee. Itcontained 65 boats, placed alternately up and down the river; the boatswere moored to posts: over them were placed, both lengthwise and across, timbers, then grass, then soil; many elephants passed over, until it gavein, but was quickly repaired, and since many more hundreds of camels, horses, and thousands of people have passed. The right bank is thirtyfeet high, the left low and sandy. The country where uncultivated, isclothed with grasses, and the only trees visible are perhaps the Pipul;the _Jhow_ occurs but not the Parhass; a few Bukeens are visible, Ricinus, Salvadora, which is occasionally a climber, especially atTiraia. The river rose suddenly on the night of the 6th and carried awaythe bridge. The Himalayas had been seen very distinctly throughout theday, so that the rain must have been local: the height of the rise wasthree feet. 

We left Hurreekee on the 8th at 10 A. M. , the river up to this time (9th)presents the same monotonous appearance--sandy banks clothed withgrasses, intermixed with _Jhow_ here and there, and occasionallyAEschynomene, and Typha. Very few villages have been passed, nor doesthe rare occurrence of topes indicate that there are many near it. Thechannel has been throughout much subdivided, and flats are of frequentoccurrence. Yesterday we passed two busy ferries, at which two or threeboats were unceasingly employed, and there was an obvious demand formore. Black partridges were heard frequently, black-bellied tern, herons, cormorants, etc. The stream averages three miles an hour. Parkinsonia was seen near Hurreekee. Reached Ferozepore at 12. 5 on the9th; it is a very busy ghat, more so than that of Hurreekee: two largegodowns were passed on the Company's side. The river is wider by 100yards than at Hurreekee. 

_10th_. --Reached Mamdot at 9. 5 A. M. The fort appears of good size, withhigh walls: it is about half a mile from the river. The countrycontinues the same. Some wheat cultivation, in which Fumaria, Anagallis, Medicago are abundant; Calotropis Hamiltonii common; some grapes; _doob_grass wherever there is or has been cultivation. The only trees I seeare Babooloid, but not the true _Babool_, which has very odorous flowers, and is always an arbuscula, a shrubby _Bheir_, spina una erecta, alterarecurvo also occurs; among the fields, Lathyrus, Aphaca, and a Compositaewhich has the leaves of a thistle, are common. 

Halted at Buggeekee, which is, I imagine, the Pajarkee of Tassin's Map. 

_11th_. --Continued passing down, breakfasting at Attaree: few signs ofvillages, but a good deal of cultivation. Persian wheels notunfrequently employed in raising water from the river: a short channelhaving first been cut in the bank, and the banks, when loose, propped up. Wheat, radishes, etc. Grasses appear to be much less common, while the_Jhow_ is increasing much. The river is much subdivided, and the actualbanks are scarcely discernible owing to the want of trees. The soil andcurrent remain the same: no impediments have been met with by our boats, nor have I yet observed any to tracking, the grass jungle being easilyovercome, and very unlike that of the Brahmapootra, and the _Jhow_ notreaching that height necessary to make it troublesome. The Nawab ofMamdot visited the Envoy today, accompanied by a small party of horsemen. Only two alligators have been seen thus far: no game even to be heard, and but few living creatures visible. 

_12th_. --The river becomes even less interesting than before; the channelis occasionally much narrowed by sands, over one of which we foundyesterday evening some difficulty in passing; it is much more spread outand subdivided, and from this circumstance, will occasion difficulty intracking up. The banks are low and generally within reach of inundation:scarcely a village is to be seen; and _Jhow_ is the most uniform feature. Yesterday evening saltpetre was visible in abundance on some of thehigher banks, and on these _Phulahi_, _Jhow_, a Composita, and Salsola?or Chenopodium were observed. Since the 10th, the few boats seen are ofdifferent structure from those to which we had been accustomed; they areflat, less wide, and much better fastened together, elevated at bothends; they are propelled as well as guided by the rudder, which iscurved, so as to bring it within reach of the helmsman, who is on a levelwith the bottom of the boat. Very little cultivation: Tassin's Map ofbut little use, as few of the names are recognised by the boatmen orvillagers. 

Paukputtea was passed to-day; it is the shrine of a _fakeer_, and one ingreat repute, as passing through a particular gate is supposed toauthorize one to claim admittance into Paradise. The Moulaveeconsequently has proceeded there in full faith and extravagant joy: withnatives of the east such absurdities are to the full as much believed bythe educated as by the uneducated; indeed the former are much the morebigoted of the two. The _fakeer_ alluded to, not only lived for years ona block of wood carved into the likeness of a loaf, but subsequentlysuspended himself for several years in a well, without even the woodenloaf. He is then said to have disappeared, and is no doubt now enjoyingall the pleasures of a Mohammedan paradise. We were detained by strongwinds at a small village opposite Paukputtea, which is situated on ratherhigh ground, as far as could be judged from the distance. 

_13th_. --The cultivation round this village consists of wheat, radishes, a sort of mustard cultivated for its oily seeds, and the Mehta ofHindoostan. Among the fields I picked up a Melilotus, a Melilotoid, anda genuine Medicago, which is also found at Loodianah, both these last arewild, and their occurrence is as curious as it is interesting; the latterbeing a decidedly boreal form. In connection with these annuals I haveto observe, that most flower about January or February, at which time themornings and nights are the coldest: also observed Lathyrus cultivated, aChenopodium was also found, Calotropis, a large Saccharoid, Amaranthaceae, were the most common plants, Gnaphalium, Lippia; _Purwas_, occursscantily. 

_14th_. --Detained till 12 P. M. By bad weather. Sissoo not uncommon butsmall, _Babool_, the true sweet scented sort. The Colocynth seen infruit much like an apple, not ribbed; it has the usual structure of theorder, viz. 3-carpellary with revolute placentae, so much so, that theyare placed near the circumference; seeds very numerous, surrounded withpulp, not arillate: no separation taking place; oval, brown, smooth. Infields here, a wild strong smelling Umbellifera occurs, called _Dhunnea_, used as a potherb, and esteemed very fragrant by the natives. Besidesthe absence of an arillus, there is another anomaly about the aboveColycynth, which is, that between each placenta a broad partitionprojects from the wall of the fruit, usually provided with 3-septa, so asto be divided into two chambers, these contain seeds, the funiculipassing completely through them; seeds are also contained between theoutermost septa and the placentae themselves. 

Passed two or three villages. The Persian wheels continue in vogue;their site is always on a sufficiently high and tenacious bank. Iobserved some wells, communicating with the river by an archway in thebank. Most of the cattle are blinded by the conical blinkers or hoodsover the eyes. 

_15th_. --Halted at a village partly washed away, surrounded by a gooddeal of wheat and radish cultivation. The mango tree and Moringa alsooccur here with the larger _Babool_, which invariably has long whitethorns. The small Sissoo still occurs. Snake bird seen, black crownedtern. 

The river remains most uninteresting; the banks are low and coveredchiefly with _Jhow_. In many places recent shells are very abundant, butdo not appear to be composed of more than three species. Reseda, Oligandra in fields. 

_16th_. --No change in the country. Heavy fog yesterday morning; to-daystrongish north-east winds. Grass and _Jhow_ about equal. 

_17th_. --Cloudy, drizzling, raw weather; river more sluggish; morevillages and more cultivation: Phascum, and Gymnostomum common ontenacious sand banks. 

_18th_. --Weather unsettled; windy and rainy. _Jhow_ and grass junglecontinue, Tamarisk, _Furas_ fine specimens, Fumaria continues in fields, Capparis aphylla, which has something of a Cactoid habit, and whosebranches abound with stomata, Reseda. 

_19th_. --Weather finer but still cloudy, north-east wind still prevalent, and impeding our progress in some of the reaches very much. Salvadora, Capparis aphylla, _Phulahi_, _Bheir_, large _Babool_, _Furas_, Ranunculussceleratus: _Jhow_ and grass jungle are the prevailing features. Currentmuch the same, only occasionally sluggish. Pelicans, black-headedadjutants, (Ardea capita, ) wild geese, ducks very numerous in the jheelsformed by alteration in the course of the river; the country is morecultivated, but as dreary looking as imaginable. Phoenix becoming morefrequent and finer, P. Acaulis? likewise occurs occasionally, ratheryoung _Khujoors_. We passed Khyrpore about 3 P. M. , it seems a stragglingplace, stretching along the bank of the Sutledge; there are a great many_Khujoor_ trees about it, and indeed about all the villages near it. Alittle below this large tract, the banks were covered with a thick_Sofaida_ shrubby jungle, which looked at a distance like dwarf Sissoo. The country is much improved, and there is a great deal of cultivation, especially on the left bank. 

_20th_. --Continued--the river is very winding, and its banks present thesame features: the immediate ones being covered with short _Jhow_ orgrass, or both intermixed, the extreme ones well wooded, and wellpeopled. _Khujoor_ very common. Yesterday near Khanpore, caught aglimpse of the descent, and to-day again the ground appears uneven, andalmost entirely barren. It must be within a mile of the Sutledge. Theleft bank continues well cultivated. In some of the fields I noticedMedicago vera, Anagallis, Fumaria, Chenopodium cnicoideus, Prenanthoid, the _Furas_, larger _Babool_, and Calotropis Hamiltonii continue. Radishes very common, as also _Teera Meera_. 

_21st_. --Halted about 8 coss from Bahawulpore. The Khan's son, a boy of8 years, came to see Mr. Macnaghten, and saluted him with "good night, "he was attended by about twelve indifferent pony _suwars_, or horsemen. The river is very tortuous, both banks a good deal cultivated; thereappear to be a good many canals, which have high banks owing to theexcavated soil being piled up: they are 8 or 10 feet deep, and about 20feet wide, at this season they are nearly dry, becoming filled during therains. The same plants continue--_Furas_, _Jhow_, Chenopodia 2, Reseda, Linaria, Malva, Boraginea, Lactucoidea. The wheat throughout thesecountries is sown broadcast. Irrigation is effected by means of smallditches, and squares formed in the fields--each partition being bankedin, so as to prevent communication; when one is filled, the water isallowed to pass off into its neighbour, and so on. Irrigation isentirely effected by Persian wheels; the cattle are hoodwinked in orderto keep them quiet: besides from not seeing, they are led to imagine thatthe driver is always at his post, which is immediately behind the oxenand on the curved flat timber which puts the whole apparatus in motion. Saw a man cross the river by means of a _mushuk_ or inflated skin. Thevery common bushy plant with thorns and ligulate leaves which commencesto appear about Hazaribagh and continues in abundance throughout thesandy north-west, is, judging from its fruit, which is a moniliformlegume--a Papilionacea; the fruit are borne by the short spine-terminatedbranches: the stalk of the pod is surrounded for the most part by acupuliform membranous calyx. I have only seen however witheredspecimens. Reached Bahawul ghat at 1 P. M. The Khan visited Mr. Macnaghten in the afternoon, his visit was preceded by one from hisHindoo minister, and another man, Imaam Shah, who is a very fat ruffianly-looking fellow. The Khan was attended by numerous _suwarries_; he is aportly looking, middle-aged man. 

_22nd_. --We returned the visit to-day, the Khan having provided us withone horse and two bullock _rhuts_: we traversed the sandy bank of theriver for about a mile before we reached the town, the suburbs of whichare extensive, but very straggling, and thinly peopled. The inner townseemed to be of some extent, the streets narrow, the houses very poor, and almost entirely of mud; there were a number of shops, and the streetswere lined with men and a few old women. There is very littledistinction in appearance between the Khan's residence and any otherportion of the town, and I did not see a defence of any kind. The Khanreceived us on some irregular terraces; near his house, the streetleading to the private entrance was lined with his troops, as well asthat leading to the terrace, and this was surrounded with his adherents, variously and well-dressed. The troops, for such appeared, were decent, and those forming one side were dressed in white, in imitation of ourSepoys, and the other side were in red and blue, _more proprio_ Iimagine: they were armed with muskets; the red ones for the most parthaving muskets of native workmanship. A royal salute was fired when themeeting took place, which was on the terrace, and as we proceeded up thestreet, a band made a rude and noisy attempt at 'God save the King. 'Having had a private consultation, Mr. Macnaghten withdrew with similarhonours, presenting arms, etc. The presents were a handsome nativerifle, with a flint lock, and the fabrics of the city, some of whichcalled Kharse, were very creditable. 

There are a good many trees about the place, indeed these form the chiefmark when seen from the ghat: the principal are mangoes, _Khujoors_, Moringas, oranges. The natives are rather a fine race, but dirty: someof the women wore the _Patani_ veils, or hoods, with network over theeyes. 

Continued down the river; though much delayed by strong south-east winds. The vegetation, etc. Continue the same, Potentilla sp. In flower, Phascumvery common. 

_23rd_. --Nothing new has occurred: the current is stronger than aboveBahawulpore: the channel continues very winding, and sandbanks veryfrequent. _Furas_, Salvadora, _Phulahi_ very common. The boatsaccidentally separated, and we went without dinner in consequence: cameinto the Pungnud. The mouths of the Chenab seem to be two, bothapparently of no great size, yet the Pungnud is a noble river, andalthough much subdivided by sand banks, is a striking stream, the watersare very muddy, and when agitated by a strong wind become almost reddish. The jungle continues much the same: the Sissoid jungle again occurred to-day, the natives call it _Sofaida_; it has a very curious habit, and isgemmiferous, the gemmae abounding in gum. Quail, black-grey partridge, hares, continue; a goat-sucker (Caprimulgus, ) was seen. 

_24th_. --The boats joined early this morning: we were delayed the wholeday by strong north-east winds; the whole country was obscured by thedust. 

_26th_. --The wind abated towards evening, and occurred again in gustsduring the night. This morning we came in sight of the southerly portionof the Soliman range, by which name however, these mountains do notappear to be known hereabouts; their distance must be forty miles atleast, yet they appear to be of considerable height: the range runs northand south nearly. Wheat is here sown in rows. _Khujoor_, large_Babool_, Fagonia, continue, _Jhow_ very common. Towards evening we cameto a subdivision of the stream following the smaller one in which thecurrent was very strong; in some places, apparently six knots an hour. Wecame to for the evening at a village on the limits of the Bahawulterritory. 

_27th_. --We came on the Indus early in the morning and stopped oppositeMittunkote until 2 P. M. , awaiting the arrival of Mr. Mackeson. Themouths of the Attock river are scarcely more striking than those of theChenab; neither is the combined river immediately opposite Mittunkote ofany great size: certainly the stream we followed was not more than 800 or900 yards wide, the extreme banks are at a considerable distance; andhalf a mile below Mittunkote the surface of the water must be one and ahalf to two miles in breadth; the river is much subdivided by banks, andshallows are frequent, yet some of the reaches are of great extent. 

The banks are low and rather bluff, the vegetation continues the same, but _Jhow_ is far the most common plant. _Bheir_, _Babool_, and the_Seerkee_ Saccharum continue; the cultivation is the same; CalotropisHamiltonii. Mittunkote appears, from a distance of two coss, a place ofsome size, with a somewhat conspicuous dome. Immediately behind it arethe Soliman Hills, of no great altitude; and, except at the bases, whichare covered with black patches of forest, they appear uniformly brown, otherwise there is nothing to vary the monotony of the scene, scarcelyany trees being visible. On stopping for breakfast, a general scene ofembracing among the dhandies or boatmen and their friends occurred; womenwere also embraced in the usual way, but with apparently less tendernessor warmth than the men. The boats tracking up, have masts, but the goonor rope is seized with both hands, a plan far less advantageous than thatadopted on the Ganges and Bramahpootra, where the principal tracking isexercised by a bamboo placed over the shoulder, farthest from the goon. 

_28th_. --No change worth noticing. The current continues rapid. Thehills visible, running parallel to the river, and ending very gradually. Typha is very common, and in some places Arundo. 

_29th_. --We remain in sight of, and generally continuing in the samedirection as the hills, which run out very gradually indeed. Scarcely atree is to be seen, and very few villages. The country continues to havesome vegetation. The _Sofaida_ is now found in flower, it is the _Ban_of the natives of these parts; the former name indicates in Persian, atree, said to be wild Poplar, with which this has an obvious affinity. Saccharum _Seerkee_ very common, growing in tufts and covering extensivetracts. Scarcely any cultivation is to be seen along the river, andaltogether a very small proportion is rendered available. River verymuch subdivided: towards evening the sky is obscured to leeward by thesmoke arising from burning jungle. Waterfowl are very common along theIndus; especially wild geese, which frequent open streams, whereas ducks, etc. Haunt places which only communicate with the main streams duringfloods: myriads of _Bogulas_, (the general name for herons, ) were seenyesterday in a compact body. The Soliman mountains are by no meansrugged, and this only in one or two places, where they become peaked. InMr. Elphinstone's account of a Journey to Cabul, the limestone said to befound in the desert contains shells; it would be most interesting tocompare this with the limestone of Churra more especially. Mr. E. Alsomentions a wild rue as forming part of the very scanty vegetation of thedesert; the chief plants being _Kureel_, which is a Capparis; Phoke ----and _Bheir_. Mr. E. Also says that the material of which the tope ofManikyalah is built, resembles petrified vegetable matter, an observationto be kept in view. The mottled kingfisher occurs throughout, but iscommoner in southern latitudes of India. 

Alligators abounded to-day, and it was curious to see them basking in thesun with flocks of herons so close, that at a little distance theyappeared to be perching on the backs of the alligators, or rathercrocodiles. Again saw a man swim the Indus by means of a _mushuk_ orinflated skin: he swam very rapidly, and with great ease; half his bodynearly being out of the water; he reclined on the skin and kept theaperture by which it is inflated in his mouth, carrying his clothes onhis head. Passed Chuck about 4. 5 P. M. The country appears populoushereabouts. 

_30th_. --We have seen a good many boats today employed in carrying grainto the camp; the smaller ones are not unlike Bengal boats, having a highstern; all on the Indus however have square bows and flat bottoms. 

The _Jhow_ has increased in size in some places as has _Sofaida_, whichis occasionally a moderate tree, and it is now more advanced inflowering: the temperature having visibly increased. The river puts onthe same features and is much subdivided; the channels by which we havecome, are not above 400 to 500 yards in breadth, yet there is often seento be a waste of low sand banks stretching to a great extent, and theextreme banks are very remote, so as generally not to be visible. 

_31st_. --Arrived at Uzeeypore about 9 A. M. Here we found horses andcamels for our conveyance to Shikarpore. Uzeeypore appears to be a wellfrequented passage of the river, although we did not see any ferry boats. Bukkur is visible from it, apparently occupying a hill almost to theextreme right of a low range running south-west; it is seven or eightcoss distant. We left for Shikarpore about 2. 5 P. M. And reached about 7P. M. : the distance is said to be twenty-four miles; the road is generallyvery sandy, although the sand is not very deep; the substratum beingsolid. We passed some cultivation and a few villages, at one of which(Khye) there is a neat sort of fortification; here we changed horses. Thejungle throughout consisted of Furas, Tamarisk, Salvadora, _Phulahi_parva, the prickly Leguminosa, with the habit of Fagonia, CalotropisHamiltonii, Saccharum. 

Shikarpore is not visible until one reaches the clearing around the town;in the twilight it appears to be a very large place. 

_February 2nd_. --We do not proceed to Larkhanu, as daily news fromHyderabad is expected. I see nothing likely to interest me about thisplace; there is absolutely not a flower to be got any where. The junglesconsist of _Jhow_, small _Furas_, _Rairoo_, a small arbusculoid Mimosa, _Kureel_, and Ukko, Calotropis Hamiltonii; _Bheirs_ shrubby; one of themost abundant plants is the _Joussa_ or prickly Leguminosa, with thehabit of Fagonia; some of the saline loving Compositae, No. 51, frutex 2-3 pedalis, foliis carnosis lanceolato-spathulatis, sessilibus. Corymbiset Cymi axillaribus et terminalibus pauci capitat. Flosculesinconspicuis, also occurs. Near the Shah's tents there is a grove of_Phulahi_, all more or less demolished, and a good many _Khujoors_. Haresand grey partridges appear common. The changes of temperature are verygreat; in the mornings and evenings it is cold; in the afternoon thethermometer reaches as high as 82 degrees. 

_9th_. --Shikarpore is getting hotter every day: thermometer ranges from40 degrees to 85 degrees. 

_15th_. --The heat continued to increase until the 12th; the range ofthermometer being from 50 degrees to 95 degrees; the evenings graduallybecame hotter, and the night although cool, had the peculiar thrillingcoolness of tropical nights. 

On the 12th, the barometer commenced falling, and has since continued todo so. The visible signs of rain have been confined to cloudy mornings;the fall of the mercury is perhaps connected with the occasional strongnortherly winds, which at times, as last night, blow nearly half gales. The range of thermometer is now from 55 degrees to 85 degrees. Thechange was sudden on the 9th or 10th; the nights were cold, thermometerat 5 A. M. 34 degrees 36'; and the days were only moderately warm. Theweather now is pleasant. Shikarpore is disagreeable _inter alia_ fromits dust, every thing becoming covered with it. 

The suburbs of the city are well wooded, and all such portions are wellprovided with gardens. The _Khujoor_ is the most common tree, theMoringa, mango, _Jamun_, _Bheir_, _Neem_, Cassia fistula, Sissoo, _Peepul_, _Furas_, _Phulahi_, another Mimosa and Agati, occur; oranges ingardens, and a Pomaceous tree from Cashmere, which appears to thrive verywell. The cultivation consists chiefly of wheat, _Mahta_, mustard, radishes, _Soonf_, coriander, beet, _Bagree_. 

In these fields Phascum, Plantago, Ispaghula, Singee, Chenopodiaceae 1-2, Salsola lanata, and Boehmeria, may be found; Composita salinaria, stocksand wall-flowers in the gardens. 

The vegetation elsewhere is very scanty; consisting of _Jhow_, _Bheir_, _Furas_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, Andropogon _Seerkee_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, alow bush called ----, and a Lycium? Boehmeria albida. 

The town is miserably defended: the streets are very irregular and verynarrow: the houses all of mud, of the usual Scindian form, and completelyirregular. The bazaars or arcades, are mere ordinary streets, covered inwith timbers, over which tattered mats are placed: in these are situatedthe Hindoo shops, and in some places darkness is completely visible. These Hindoos have a peculiar elongated Jewish aspect, and are reportedto be very wealthy. Grain and cloth are the principal articles in whichthey deal, and they say the streets are covered in order that thepurchaser may buy with his eyes half shut. The city is a large ramblingplace, and each house deposits its own filth before it. The inhabitants, especially the Hindoo portion, have a peculiar complexion, and by nomeans a healthy one. No one seems to have deserted the town on accountof our approach, neither has fear hitherto prevented them from bringingtheir merchandise into camp. 

The weather has continued cool: yesterday we had a good deal of rain; to-day it is very cloudy. The range of the thermometers from 46 degrees and48 degrees to 82 degrees outside. 

Artificers are not uncommon, as carpenters and blacksmiths, but theirtools are miserable: and there is no such thing as a large saw to beseen. Wages are high, and from the slowness with which they work, it isruinous to employ them. 

Left Shikarpore on the 21st and marched to Jargon, 13. 5 miles, one of theusual fortified villages of _kucha_ or unburnt brick. Houses surroundedalso with _Jhow_ fences. The jungle and country precisely the same asthat round Shikarpore, road at first bad, but subsequently good enough:water is to be had very good: at no great depth. 

_22nd_. --To Janidaira, 11. 5 miles: road excellent throughout. Countryless covered with jungle: features mostly the same: a curious lookingplant occurred plentifully, but to a limited extent near Jargon andsubsequently, as the country became more sandy, we had abundance ofSalicornia, of which camels are excessively fond, otherwise _Jhow_, _Furas_, very common, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_ throughout; near Jargon, Elrua very common, Chenopodium cymbifolium throughout. 

The soil at first is very fine, finely pulverized, brownish as weproceeded onwards, becoming more and more sandy. Hills of some height, apparently very distant, are seen ahead due north, and to the west. Wepassed one village to the left, two canals of small size, and some_Bagree_ cultivation. A small ridge with a hillock occurred afterpassing the village, otherwise all was flat. And about this the junglewas thin, entirely of patches _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, and _Furas_, Peepul. 

We had a violent north wind yesterday evening with some rain. 

_23rd_. --To Rogan, distance 11 to 12 miles: country generally flat, presenting here and there sandy undulations, generally bare ofvegetation. Salvadora, _Jhow_, _Furas_, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, continue;_Furas_ and _Rairoo_ most common; a new Chenopodium and a Salsola, or aplant of the same genus as that met with yesterday, swarming in someplaces, both species were common in some parts, in others one of the twoonly occurred. Road generally excellent, level and unbroken. Two smallghurrees or forts occurred, with a large patch of cotton, and stilllarger of _Bagree_: a small Sedoid-looking plant with yellow flowers, andone or two other (to me) novelties occurred: Heliotropium, Fagonia, _Joussa_, _Bheir_. In those parts in which loose sand had becomeaccumulated, it not only formed banks, but every bush was submerged init. The fresh sand must be derived from decomposition of the hard levelplain by the action of the air: yet there should be a regular gradationin size of the waves; those nearest the windward side of the desert oughtto be the smallest. Rock pigeon of Loodianah seen. 

There are two ghurrees or forts at the halting place, both small; thewater is tolerable. The chief trees are Salvadora and _Rairoo_. 

_24th and 25th_. --Left in the evening and marched all night throughthe desert, which commences within two miles of Rogan, and towards whichplace vegetation gradually becomes more scarce until it disappearsentirely. This sandy waste is upwards of twenty miles in extent: in thedirection we traversed it, NW. Or NNW. , it is almost totally deprived ofvegetation; one or two plants, such as Salsoloid, being alone observablenear its borders. The surface is generally quite flat, in some placescut up by beds of small streams: the surface is firm, and bears marks ofinundation: tracks of camels, etc. Being indented. We reached Bushore at5. 5 A. M. ; the camels performed twenty-six miles in ten hours. We haltedfor four hours in the centre of the desert and tried to sleep but thecold was too great, striking up as it were from the ground. The camelsmarched through without halting, and we suffered only one loss amongstthem next day. The occurrence of this peculiar desert is unaccountable, especially its almost absolute privation of vegetation; for many otherplaces, equally dry, have their peculiar plants, such as Salsola, Chenopodium, _Furas_, _Rairo_, _Ukkoo_, _Kureel_. 

_25th_. --Bushore is a miserable place, consisting of the usual mud housesand defences: the adjacent nullah does not invite attention; it ishowever the only seat of wells, which, as in all this country sinceleaving Rogan, are of small diameter, from thirty to forty feet deep, andcontain very little water, which also is rather brackish and wellimpregnated with sand. The surrounding country is so barren that it maybe called a desert, while the desert itself may be called the desert ofdeserts. I should mention that this ceases first to the west, in whichdirection shrubs encroach on it. _Phulahi_, Evolvulus acanthoides, Tribulus, _Kureel_, etc. Are found about Bushore, but the prevailingplant is Chenopodium cymbifolium. 

_26th_. --Leaving Bushore, we proceeded to Joke, which we reached late, itbeing nineteen miles: we lost the road however, which is in a direct lineonly sixteen miles. We soon came on a nullah, or canal, which wefollowed to Meerpore, a rather large double village, with a nice grove of_Furas_, situated on the dry river Naree, which is as contemptible insize as deficient in water, this is only procurable by digging wells ofthirty feet deep, and even then in small quantity. Before reaching it, we passed several villages, mostly deserted and ruined. 

The country is frightfully bare of wood; the chief plant is Chenopodiumcymbifolium, and along the canal lemon grass, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, _Joussa_, _Ukko_, _Bheir_, etc. ; near Meerpore a Centaurea, and Evolvulusacanthaceus. But along the nullah some wood may be found, stunted thoughit be, it is chiefly _Rairoo_. We left Meerpore and proceeded about oneand a half mile from Joke, following the nullah until we came on a canalin which, from a bund having been thrown across, there was a puddle ortwo of water. Here we halted. Much remains of cultivation is presentedabout this, chiefly _Bagree_, which is perennial. Durand tells me thatthe sprouts of the second year are poisonous to cattle, i. E. Horses; butthis report may have been given out purposely by the natives. Along theriver, _Jhow_ and _Furas_ occur, in the naked plains, Chenopodiumcymbifolium, _Rairoo_, and a few _Kureel_, but they are so naked as toafford little fodder for the camels: there is a little cultivation ofmustard, and _Taira meera_. The hills are about twenty miles off, andappear about 4, 000 feet high, they are precipitous, but the outline isnot rugged: they appear perfectly barren. Those to the north which runnearly east and west are more distant. No new birds were seen; rockpigeons occur. The soil would be rich if water were abundant: in the_Bagree_ fields it is of a cloddy kind. 

Reseda, Euphorbia, Salsola lanata, Chenopodium cymbifolium, Evolvulus, Panicum, and Andropogon occur here. _Jowaree_ sells at twelve seers arupee, and _Khurbee_ is very dear. A large plain occurs here coveredwith Gramen Panicum, which is in tufts, and has the appearance of beingcultivated. 

_27th_. --Halted at our camp near Joke. The Naree runs one and a halfmile to the westward: its bed is fifty yards wide and about ten feetdeep; the banks are well clothed with _Furas_. There is a good deal of_Bagree_ cultivation. 

_28th_. --To _Oostadkote_, nine and a half miles. The road is not a madeone for the latter one-third. Crossed the Naree about two miles from ourencampment: the country appeared the same. On arriving near our haltingplace, green wheat fields, intermixed with much fresh Chenopodium, GramenPanicum, Reseda were most abundant, Chloroideum, Sinapis, Raphanuscultivated with _Taira meera_, two Cruciferous plants common, Salsolalanata also occurs. Water abundant in a channel of fifteen yards wideand three feet deep, clear and tasteless. _Furas_ the most common shrub. No grass occurs but the remains of Panicum. Wheat is here sown indrills, in some places the crop is promising. The country is evidentlyoccasionally overflowed, witness the indurated surface and the fissures, which away from the road, renders it bad for camels, being full of holes. 

There are several villages visible round our camp, all of the usualmiserable description, and there is a good deal of _Bagree_ cultivation. The water does not extend more than a mile; it is eight feet deep, andabout twenty yards wide towards the head, where the bund is thrownacross. 

_March 1st_. --To Bagh nine and a half miles. The country is quitesimilar: the chief plants continue to be Chenopodium cymbifolium, _Kureel_, a _Rairoo_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, and Salsola robusta, but occur inno great plenty, they and all the face of the country exhibit marks ofinundation. Bagh is visible a long way off from its being ornamentedwith a gamboge, or ochre-wash, otherwise its aspect is poor and muddy. Wecame on the Naree about three miles from the town, and as it has beenbunded, it is full of clearish blue water, to a good depth. We encampedabout one and a half mile on the south side of the town. About the headof the bund there is a good deal of wheat cultivation, and some mustard. In these _khets_ Reseda is very abundant, Heliotrope is also common; Ipicked up a Matthiola and a Pommereulla. The banks of the Naree areclothed with small _Furas_, which in these parts are always encrustedwith saline matter, or, as it would seem, pure salt. Rock pigeons bothsorts, Loodianah rats, etc. 

Bagh is celebrated for gunpowder; it is a largish, straggling, but poorplace, though thickly tenanted. Its latitude is 29 degrees 1' 20", andis placed thirty miles too far south in Tassin's last map. Sugar-candyfrom Bussorah and cloth, are the principal articles sold. 

_4th_. --Marched sixteen miles to Mysoor: direction at first NNW. Andlatterly west, close to the Brahorck hills. Water is plentiful in bundsand river, but the country is very very bare, Salicornia robustauncommon, Plantago canescens, Poa, Cynodon, _Ukko_ is very common, otherwise _Kureel_ is the predominant plant. A good deal of wheatcultivation, every thing depends on water: the wheat along watercoursesis luxuriant, but where water is less plentiful, stunted: soil the same, a tenacious sandy clay when wet: fields very free from weeds. Resedavery common, but very small, Heliotropium ditto, Crucifera hispida ditto. Green wheat a maund for a rupee. The road or rather country, isintersected here and there by ravines. 

_5th_. --Halted. The nearest range of hills are six miles off, they havea very peculiar irregular brown appearance. The higher ones also have asimilar appearance; these appear quite precipitous, and have in someparts a curious crenated outline. The chief vegetation about this placeis _Kureel_, especially along the river and towards the bund, which lastis well filled with water. _Kureel_, _Furas_, _Ukko_, very common, Cynodon, Prenanthoid, Poa minima, _Joussa_, Fagonia, Saccharum, Nerioid. In the water Scirpus, Cyperaceus, Charae two species, Potomogeton twospecies, Valisnaria, Typha. On banks, Plantago cana, a curious_Sileneacea_, a splendid Orobanche, and a Brassicacea. 

The birds continue the same: there is abundance of Fulica, swarms ofwaterfowl, herons, plovers, etc. ; starlings re-appear. 

Some wheat fields well irrigated; most luxuriant _Khujoors_, radishes. 

_6th_. --Marched to Nowshera, sixteen miles: five first miles across aplain scantily furnished with _Kureel_. Sturt tells me the country looksquite a desert to the eastward from one of the hills. Thence we came onthe hills, through which and the dividing valleys we proceeded for twomiles, thence emerging into a narrow valley in which Nowshera issituated, drained by the river of Mysoor, which is an insignificantrunning stream. 

The hills are very curious, totally bare of vegetation, not more than twoor three stunted Chenopodium cymbifolium being seen on or about them. They do not exceed 300 feet in height; their composition is various; theyare much worn by rain, and the outline although generally sharp, is oftenrounded. They present great variety, but chiefly are of a soft clayishlooking substance, distinctly enough stratified, the uppermost stratabeing indurated and often quite smooth, and of a sub-ochreous appearance. The outer ridges on each side of the range slope gradually outwards, andthe surface in these slopes is smooth. Inside, or towards the inner partof the range, they are generally precipitous, but beyond the uppermoststrata, the exposed face is not indurated, hence this can scarcely arisefrom exposure to the weather. In these places they look much likesandstone, the fragments at the base of the cliffs are clayey, mixed withbrown angular masses, occasionally shingle, and indeed, a low ridge nearthe north side of the range is chiefly of shingle. The direction isNNE. , the angle of inclination of the slopes say 30 degrees. The hillsare highest towards the centre, and here some of the strata are curved. 

The plain between this and the main range is much broken by ravinescaused by rain; it is thinly covered with _Kureel_, Salsola robusta, Chenopodium, etc. The vegetation along the river is the same as atMysoor. Durand finds nummulites, but thinks them brought down by theriver. The strata or rather debris of slips often intersected by nearlyerect projecting lines of a fibrous dyke. There is some wheatcultivation in the fields, a new Plantago, a Ruta, Silenacea, a curiousComposita, two Boragineae, Phalaris, Phleum, Avena, two or threeCrucifera, Trigonella, and Melilotus are to be found. The vegetationelsewhere is much the same, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_, Chenopodium, Lycium albidum re-occurs. 

_7th_. --Proceeded to Dadur, a distance of seven and a half miles, nearlynorth. The country is a good deal cut up by water: within two and a halfmiles of Dadur we crossed the Naree, a running stream, with smallboulders, and high clayey banks. The country improves towards Dadur, topes becoming more frequent. Salsola lanata abundant: a good deal ofcultivation occurs along the river. 

_10th_. --Dadur is a good sized, and more orderly looking place than Bagh, and is ornamented with well wooded gardens, among which the _Khujoor_holds a conspicuous place. An elegant and large _Bheir_ and a Mimosa, are two other trees of the place; it is situated on the left bank of theBolan river. The bed of this river until the Levee bund was cut, hadbeen dry, but there is now plenty of water in it. It is in some placesmuch choked by bulrushes, etc. , it is eighty yards broad, and is shingly. Dadur stands nearly on the end of a good sized plain, surrounded on allsides by hills, of which those traversed to Nowshera, run NNE. And arelowest. The main range is four or five miles off. The greater part ofthis plain is uncultivated and covered with _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Joussa_, Sal. Lanata, and Chenopodium; but along the sides of the river, as wellas near that crossed en route to this place from Nowshera, there is ahighly luxuriant cultivation of wheat, bearded and beardless, and barley. In some places near the town, are rich gardens of _sonff_, coriander, _Mola_, cress, onions, carrots, beet, among which a few poppies andCannabis occur. These, as well as the fields, are protected with loose_Bheir_ fences. There are a few small villages around, all of the samekucha or temporary construction, together with some remains of cotton, which in these parts is perennial. 

There are no wild trees to be found, excepting perhaps an elegant speciesof willow. The vegetation of the fields is highly interesting, consisting of many European forms, similar to those at Nowshera--Avena, Phleum, Polygonium, Zanthoxyloid, Erodium! Anagallis in abundance, Plantago, _Pecagee_, Cynodon two species, Andropogon, Melilotus, Medicago, Boraginea, Malva, Tetragonolotus, Astragaloides, Sperguloides, Cruciferae. 

In the bed of the river Nerium, Paederioides, Crotalaria, etc. Of whichthe former is common every where: Fagonia, Viola found in the bed of theriver crossed en route hither, a very curious plant. Antirrhenoid wasbrought from the hills by Capt. Sanders, singular in the inequality ofthe calyx and the great development of the posticous sepal. 

Altogether this spot is curious in regard to vegetation, for the meanannual temperature must be high, and the winter temperature by no meanslow enough to account for the appearance presented. 

The only novel birds are a jackdaw, with the voice and manners of the red-billed Himalayan species, and which I have only seen at a distance, and adifferent sort of Pterocles. 

_11th_. --Proceeded to Drubbee, eight miles from Dadur, and about threewithin the range of hills, the plain towards which is rather elevated, and generally covered with boulders and shingle. The vegetation of thisshingly plain is much the same, Chenopodium, _Ukko_, Salsola, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_; the most common shrubby plant, however, is an elegant Mimosa, much like the _Babool_, with white thorns; Nerium oleander is also verycommon along cuts. 

In some wheat fields I procured Imperata, a new Plantago, and a curiousGnaphalium. The entrance to the pass is gradual; the hills almostentirely bare. I noticed _Rairoo_, Salvadora, _Kureel_. The most novelplant is a curious, erect, bushy, thorny Convolvulus, which is one of themost common plants farther in. The pass to Drubbee is wide, say 300yards; the only obstacle exists in the shingle, which renders the roadheavy. No abutments are present, jutting out from the hills, the streamis considerable but easily fordable, and abounds with fish, the Mahaseer, and two or three species of Gonorhynchus. The hills about Drubbee arenot more than 500 feet high. They are generally of a coarse breccia, thecomponent parts principally limestone; abundance of nummulites. Thechief vegetation of the pass is one or two Andropogoneous grasses, andApocynum nerioides. There is absolutely no fodder for camels, whichhowever, take readily to grass. Towards the mouth of the pass, Paederiainvolucrata, Villarsia, Lycioid, Stenophyllum and _Ukko_ are common, butthey are rare inside, although the last continues some distance up thehills and attains a large size, becoming quite arboreous. A Crucifera, arhubarby sorrel, a Goodyera, and one or two grasses, were the onlyadditional novelties met with. 

_12th_. --Marched on eight miles, after five of which we turned to theright, and the pass became and continued narrow, until we reached ourhalting place, which is something like what we may suppose to be theremains of a mountain, still a good deal elevated above the bed of river. The mountains continued the same in the gorge, until we came to limestonecliffs, which afforded a peculiar vegetation, Linaria retephioides, Linaria alia pusilla foliis 5-gonis cordatis, floribus luteis minutispubescens, specimen lost, one or two Rubiaceae, a Salvia, several veryinteresting grasses, among which is a Stipa, a Composita, Santanoides, acurious Capparidea, Cassia, etc. Etc. 

The hills have increased in height, in many places they were extremelypicturesque, split and divided in every direction. The valley runningoff to south on our entrance into the gorge: river diminished somewhat insize. Jheely spots, with very deep water common, surrounded with thickAndropogon, Typha and Scirpus jungle. Few fish were seen and none taken. Can the Mahaseer not reach this? Gonorhynchus continue, but they nevertake a fly; Ophiocephalus, _Sowlee_; turtle caught by bearers, Silurus. No less than twenty-three plants novel to me were gathered on thelimestone, which looks as bare as the breccia; all its plants grew insmall tufts or singly, and all adhered firmly to the rock. The only treewhich continues is _Phulahi_ or _Rairoo_; Convolvulus spinosus verycommon, a very curious Chenopodioid, Reseda with Cruciferous qualities. 

_13th_. --Proceeded to Gurmab, eight and a half miles. Country continuesthe same. The defile after crossing some rather broad water three feetdeep, opened out into a rather large valley, near the south end of whichGurmab is situated, and it is _ornamented_ with a good many _Rairoo_trees, of indifferent size and appearance. No change whatever in thevegetation; Salsola prima occurs sparingly. 

_14th_. --Halted at Gurmab. The hills close to our encampment are oflimestone, which is in many places very angular. Oolite found by Durandin a low range, standing by itself in the valley, it generally bears avast quantity of nummulites and madrepores. A flat discoid organizedremain occurs in abundance, and probably belongs to the same group. _Ukko_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_ rare, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankenioides, Stipaceum gramen, Euphorbia, Polygonum rheoides, Salvadora, may be found. Along the water Andropogonoides 2, Typha, Arundo, Juncus, Scirpusjuncinus in abundance. In the water, a new Naias, and Conferveae. In aravine near our camp, I found a Cynoglossum and a curious Periploceousplant, in habit approaching to certain Aphyllous, true Asclepiads. 

A few stunted dates are visible near Gurmab, which is three miles fromKirtah, and towards the deep water there is a ruin of a single house. _Rairoo_, Nerioid, and Lycium albidum are the most common ground plants. There is only _Rairoo_ for camels, who do not thrive on harsh grasses, although compelled by hunger to eat them. Large flocks of Doombah sheepand goats belonging to Khelat men were met with. Mahaseer in abundance, and very greedy after a red hackle of fish, Macrognathus andOpheocephalus occur also. Of birds the white vulture, Alauda cristata etalia, with a notched beak, a partridge which I had not previously seen, Motacilla alia. 

_15th_. --Proceeded to Beebee Nanee, nine and a half miles up the valleyin which Gurmab is situated. The road tolerably level and good; bouldersnot however common. The village of Kuttah, is one mile to the right, consisting of one ruined house; near the exit from the valley a burialground occurs, having flags, or banners, pointing out the graves, whichare covered with heaps of stones. The exit from the valley is by anarrow pass through a low range of angular limestone, thence up anothernarrow shingly valley or narrowish gorge, and over a small stream ofwater of ordinary temperature, where we encamped: in the second valleytwo spots were observed covered with graves. Immense flocks of birdswere seen on the range to the west of the valley. In the first valleyPaederia involucrata and Salsola prima, are the most common plants. Onthe limestone hills, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankeniacea, Plantagovillosa, and a curious Composita, subacaulis, involucro foliaceo, ofwhich the single specimen has been lost, a few _Bheirs_. 

Encamped in a small valley or pass leading to Khelat, a marked one only afew hundred yards wide. To the west, the hills continue very barren. Gurmab--this takes its name from the warmth of the water, whichapparently rises in several sedgy spots; the united waters form a smallstream abounding with Mahaseer, Barbus, etc. And falling into anotherstream, again meets the main river, which runs off to the eastward fromthe place where it is crossed towards Gurmab. There is no sign ofbubbling in the springs, although the water commences to run visibly fromwithin a few yards. The temperature of one did not vary from 76 degrees, which must be about the mean temperature of the place, but thetemperature of a deep body of water after the confluence of severalsprings was 82 degrees, so that some of them must hence be ofconsiderable temperature: the highest examined was 81 degrees. 

Of three springs examined--the first of these had a temperature of 82degrees Fahr. --the second of 77 degrees, these unite to form thestreamlet that runs towards the east--the third spring had a temperatureof 77 degrees: this is crossed on entering the valley from the south, itruns under a limestone range, and then bends off to the south-east tounite with the main stream. Cyprinus fulgens and C. Bimaculatus werefound in the 82 degrees spring. From the variation in the temperature ofthe three, it is obvious that neither represents the mean temperature ofthe place. 

_16th_. --To Abigoom, eight and a quarter miles, through a similar countryup a valley in a NNW. Direction; the valley is narrowed towards themiddle, and is a plain of considerable inclination, the chief rockspassed are limestones. No fodder for camels, and little enough on theroad for horses; the chief vegetation consisting of Nerioides, Paederiainvolucrata, and small tufts of _Kuss-kuss_ grass; Ruwash is common, Lycium album; Salsola prima are not common, and the _Bheir_ is rare. Anew and curious plant looking like _Kureel_ was found, male flowers withlarge semi-antheriferous bearing disc. Apocynum viminale not uncommon, and not ruined by cattle, Prenanthoid albiflora, Echinopsides, a fineBegonia, B. Punicoides, arbuscula; Salvadora also occurred. The inclinedvalleys are very shingly and bouldery. The mountains as barren as ever. 

There is at Beebee Nanee a running streamlet, in which small Mahaseer, Nepuroid, Gonorhynchus and Barbus may be found; also a species of Cancer. We were encamped close to the cliffy termination of a limestone range, inwhich Linaria, Trichodesma, Cynoglossum, Ruwash, Labiata, and a mostsingular Telepheoid polygalous looking plant were found. There is somefodder along the water for horses, but for camels scarcely any: weaccordingly lose six to ten camels now daily. There was a curious echofrom the cliff. 

_17th_. --To-day we halt at Abigoom, which is at the extremity of aninclined plain, and 2, 500 feet above the sea; some of the boundary hillsare considerably higher, the valley is shingly and bouldery, covered withthe usual plants, but more scantily: Nerioid, Paederia involucrata, Lycium albidium, Apocynum viminale. 

I went to some wheat cultivation yesterday afternoon about two and a halfmiles off, in a small valley to the south-east. The wheat was fine, allbearded, most of the Dadur plant occurred in it with some curiousnovelties, Boraginea, Cynoglossum, Compositae, Cuscuta, and a new Reseda. The Melilotus and red Anchusoid were not found, Plantago, were among themost abundant. A single _Furas_ tree and some _Kureel_ were seen nearthe wheat. The weather unsettled; cloudy; rain fell at night and earlythis morning. A _cafilah_ or caravan from Candahar with figs and raisinspassed us. Rock pigeon of Loodianah and the small partridge wereobserved. There is a streamlet here. 

_18th_. --Detained by bad weather, which threatened the whole ofyesterday. The river came down during the night, flooded, and upset someof the tents, damaging many things, but not carrying off much. It rainedsmartly almost the whole night: we moved this morning to rather higherground, but not so high as to preclude all danger should the river riseagain. A dawk man arrived last night, bringing a handful of tulips whichhe said came from Shal; it is a small species, foliis subtortis undulatiscaule 1-flora, flore amplo aureo subodora. 

_19th_. --Advanced to Sirekhugoor, distance nineteen miles, ascentthroughout on a considerably inclined plain up the bed of a river, shingly and bouldery; the pass is not much contracted, but a shortdistance from Abigoom we parted from every thing like valleys. Thevegetation continues much the same: _Kureel_, Salsola prima re-occurrednear Abigoom but sparingly, chief vegetation consists of clumps ofwithered coarse Andropogons, Nerioides, Paederia, and Lycium, but lesscommon than before, while Apocynum viminale, and Convolvulus spinosushave increased. The bed of the streamlet is until near Sirekhugoor, chiefly occupied by a large Arundo just past flowering, in which Typhaalso occurs sparingly: within 300 feet of the halting place, a solitary_Khujoor_, and some wheat cultivation occurs, the latter much behind thatof Abigoom. In the fields Polygala occurred with a Galium; the mostcommon plant being a Sinapis found at Dadur: some _Bheir_ trees alsooccur here; a few Compositae, Labiatae, and Cruciferae, similar to thoseat Abigoom, are also found: the novelties were _Peganum_ which continuesthroughout the pass, Hyoscyamoid, and one or two Compositae; while inwater-courses close to it the first dripping rocks occurred covered withAdiantum and fructiferous mosses, and a curious Primuloid plant out offlower, with a curious Clematis. 

The halting place is at the head of the stream, which gushes copiouslyout of a rock; the bed of the river or defile is 100 yards wide: themountains immediately adjoining not exceeding 1, 000 feet in height, butthe second range is much higher, that to our north being plentifullysprinkled with snow. These mountains are barren, chiefly covered withConvolvulus spinosus, which has a different aspect, with a Sytisoid, handsome silvery shrub, a species of Caragana and Apocynum viminale:about the spring and in other places there are thick patches of a verydwarf palm, and a solitary fig tree, a Lycium album continues: the bedoccupied by tufts of coarse Andropogons and Apocynum viminale; about thespring Adiantum, a small Boraginia, white flowered small Compositae, awithered Hepaticum, two or three efructiferous mosses, and the Primuloidplant. In the stream Chara, Conferva, Peppermint, _Beccabunga_, Convolvulus, like C. Reptans, Arundo left behind nearly. On themountains fragrant Labiatae, Compositae, and Umbelliferae are commencing. The barometer stood at 25. 669; thermometer 64 degrees at 11 A. M. Manysoft rocks occurred: passed a clayey looking one, with very elevatedstrata, containing veins of transverse crystals: the sides of the defileare often precipitous, these are generally formed of conglomerate. 

_20th_. --Continued up the same defile, a gradual ascent, and about twomiles from Sirekhugoor entered the pass by pre-eminence; very muchnarrowed, precipitous cliffs on both sides: this continues for some time. The road good, shingly, but not very bouldery; very winding, andgenerally capable of strong defence; much cover exists from the ruggedmargins of cliffs, and windings of the road. The mountains, after fouror five miles were passed, gradually receded and became less precipitous:at length we came to gradually rounded more distant mountains; then to asmall valley; then ascended say 100 feet, over a low rocky range, anddescended into a fine valley, surrounded by usual barren lookingmountains: high ranges to the north and south covered with snowpresenting a beautiful view--and now entered Khorassan. We wereaccompanied by several bands of a gypsyish-looking people, forming partsof a _cafilah_. They were accompanied with numerous goats: and camelsornamented with trappings. 

Throughout the very narrow portion of the pass the vegetation continuesthe same: at Sirekhugoor a Xanthoxylon appears and continues nearlythroughout: this and an oleinous looking small tree are the onlyarborescent plants: Apocynum viminale and the other plants of Sirekhugoorcontinue, nor did I notice any new ones further than a Sedum, andTortula. However fragrant Labiatae and Compositae increase in number, but none are in flower. 

As soon as we opened out from the pass, the vegetation almost entirelychanged; the hills assumed a rounded form, covered with low bushes, andwere much less rocky. Umbelliferae, Labiatae, and Compositae abound, some of them deliciously fragrant: an Astragaloid spinosus very common, ashrubby Cerasus, Thalictrum, Hypoxis, and small Cruciferae abundant. Thechief vegetation consists of grasses in low round tufts; Anemone, Tulipa, etc. All small. After crossing a low range we came into the valley, which is almost entirely covered with an Artemisioid odoriferous plant;no verdure was visible, even on the snowy ranges. We encamped closeunder a ridge about two and a half miles to the north of the summit ofthe pass. 

_21st_. --Halted: there being some water collected in attempts to form anullah from the last rain, it is quite brownish and opaque, but depositsno sediment, and makes good tea, although disagreeable to drink in anyother form. I walked out in the afternoon into a valley to the west, close to our encampment, and thence ascended a hill 600 feet high atleast. 

This valley like the one in which we are encamped is covered entirely byan Artemisioid, a very fragrant plant, each shrub of which is distinct;mixed with it are tulips, several small Cruciferae, and aFritillarioides. 

The same Artemisioid is also the chief plant on all the hills: it ismixed, but in small quantities with Cerasus pygmaeus, Equisetoid, Caragana, and one or two shrubby Labiatae; and also especially above, with a curious Astragaloid looking plant. The herbaceous plants arenumerous, consisting of very fragrant Umbelliferae, bursting into leaf;tulips, Fritillarioides, Trichostema, Erodium, Iris, Thalictrum, Senecio, Boragineae 2, Gilenacea, several tufted Gramineae, Berberideae, Ranunculoides, Myosotis, Anemone cracea, Asphodeloid, Mesembryanthoids;of mosses Tortula, Grimmia. 

_22nd_. --Proceeded to Sinab, a distance of fifteen and three quartermiles, up two valleys, no ascents. These valleys are elevated towardsthe mountains and generally depressed in the centre: in some they stretchout a long way from the mountain to which they may be imagined to belong. The mountains seen from a distance jutting out from perhaps the centre ofa plain, look curious. The vegetation is generally Artemisioid, and veryfragrant: the first valley in its depressed portions was covered with aSalsoloid looking plant, to the exclusion of Compositae, but these lastrecurred in the higher parts. 

With the Compositae, swarms of small Cruciferae occur; that with purpleflowers and pinnatisect leaves being the most common. Very rugged hillsare visible to the north-east and north of our route, presenting a verydifferent appearance from the usual aspect: they are steep to the east, and present inclined slopes to the west. 

_Sunday_, _24th_. --Halted this day. Little new occurs in the valley, except a few trees out of leaf and flower, which, though trees here, yetthe species are not so elsewhere. At this place are the heads of theriver of Pisheen, which appear to arise more artificially than naturallyfrom _Kahreezes_, or wells dug in a rude way, and communicating bysubterranean channels; those nearest the natural outlet of the waterbeing the shallowest. The vegetation is the same; there is a littlecultivation, but nothing to indicate any descent. The amount ofpopulation is not great; and the hills to the west are covered with snow. The chief vegetation is _Santonica_. In cornfields Fumariaceae, Adonis, Cruciferae, Pulmonaria, Arenaria, Hordei sp. , Tulipa lutea, andHyacinthus? may be found. 

The vegetation of the plains, inclusive of Santonica, consists generallyof three or four small Cruciferae, Tulipa lutea. 

I went to the west towards the snow, and found in the river here anaquatic Ranunculus, foliis omnibus immersis, floribus albis, Chara iscommon; gravelly slopes commence some distance from hills, covered withSantonica, Astragaloid spinosus, Leguminosae, a spinous Statice, Cytisusargenteis, Composita floribunda carnosa. 

The mountains are covered with masses of rock. One tree occurs with aFraxinus? a Thymeleous looking shrub, Cytisus, Caragana. The herbaceousplants are very numerous, Compositae, Cruciferae, small Leguminosae, Berberideae, Isopyroides, Crocus? Gentiana, Onosma and other Boragineae, Umbelliferae, Silenaceae, especially small Arenariae; Cupressus commencesabout 6, 500 feet, near the Cypress an Arctium occurred, at least it hasthe habit of that genus, Onosma, a curious Boraginea calyce sinubusbidentigeris, demum plano! ampliato bilabiato! clauso, quasi hastatolobato, nucibus compressis, 2, Sedums 4, Arenariae, a fine Gentiana, Crocoides, Iris, Ornithogaloides or Trichonema occurred, with manyothers. The greatest elevation attained was about 1, 200 feet above thecamp. Chikor and the smaller partridge were seen. 

_25th_. --Marched to Quettah, eight and a half miles up the valley over adelightful road. The valley is cultivated, and many villages are visiblewith their orchards, consisting of mulberry trees, cherries, andapricots, surrounded with mud walls; the houses miserable, and all treesout of leaf: the crops under cultivation are more advanced, but depend onirrigation, some salad-bearing plant occurred cultivated in trenches likeasparagus: the fields are clean, and sometimes well manured. A Veronicaallied to V. Agrestis, 2 or 3 Euphorbiaceae, a very well definedPlantago, Hyacinthus, and a pretty Muscari, were among the novelties;Juncus, Chara, Carex, occurred in some marshy spots. I was most struckwith the occurrence of at least two species of Lucerne, or Trefoil: wellsare common, and water abundant. The climate is delightful, temperature49 degrees at 9 P. M. In a tent. 

_26th_. --I ascended towards a snowy range to the ESE. Of our camp, crossing a cultivated portion of the valley extending to the gradualslopes so universal between the level portion and the bases of themountains, and which are always covered with shingle, and occasionallymuch cut up by watercourses. Turning a ridge I ascended up a ravine, rather wide and easy at first, but becoming gradually narrow, and at lastdifficult. On coming to its head I rambled some distance higher amongprecipitous rocks, the ground generally covered with loose shingle, giving bad footing. The rocks too were treacherous, often giving wayunder the feet. I was still 1, 000 feet from the summit, which is thesecond range between our camp and the snow but which is not visible fromthe camp. From it I saw the camp, and the valley of Pisheen beyond thetermination of the Tuckatoo range. Water boiled at 196 degrees 7', making the height about 8, 300 feet, in my (new) Woollaston instrument at686; temperature of the air 46 degrees 5'. Nothing occurred to repay mefor the fatigue of the excursion. Junipers or cypress form the chiefarbusculous vegetation, but even these are scanty; they commence at 6, 500feet, and continue to the snow: Fraxinus occurred about 7, 000 feet, andanother tree of which I could make nothing, it being out of flower andleaf. Compositae were the prevailing vegetation; but of these, only theremains were found, which were very fragrant. A large thorny Leguminousshrub out of leaf, etc. Looking much like a Rosa, Equisetoides, etc. ; ofmosses, Weissia Templetonii, and Tortula, so that in these there is verylittle variety; the debris of one Hepatica occurred. 

At the foot of the mountains, the only place out of the valley where anyvegetation is to be found, Asphodelus, radicibus luteis, foliistriangularibus, a fine plant coming into flower, Cytisus, Caragana, Narcissus? Cruciferae, among them a small Draba, Cerasus pygmaeus, Peganum, Salsoloid of Mumzil, Trichonema, Myosotis, Gentiana of Chiltera, Buddlaea, Carex; indeed the vegetation is precisely the same as atChiltera. The only novelty was Bardana in flower, and it proves to be acruciferous plant of large size. 

On the stony slopes, a shrubby spinous Centauroid, foliis pinnatifidisglaucis, Cytisus, Caragana, Asphodelus and Cheiranthus are the prevailingplants. No Santonica is found about here. 

A new Iris occurs in abundance: near this in wettish parts of the valleya Vicia, Muscari, Hyacinthus and others as before. The chief cultivationis wheat, irrigated in plots: the soil when saturated with water, forminga clayish, adhesive, finely pulverulent mass, which cakes on drying. Awatermill for flour, having a horizontal wheel acted on by the stream asin Bootan occurs; the grain drops in from a pyramidal cone fixed over thetwo horizontal stones, in the upper of which there is a hole. Theapparatus is very rude. 

The height attained by me on the eastern ridge being about 8, 300 feet;that of the 2nd range, will be 9, 300 feet at least, and the height of thepeak or highest ridge, cannot be less than 11, 000 feet. 

30th. --Continue to halt. There is a good deal of cultivation about thisplace, but the crops will not be ripe before August: it is principallywheat; munjit is also cultivated on trenched ground: the young sproutshave a good salad-like flavour. The Suddozye Lora runs through thevalley, about two miles from the town: it is a small stream, crowded hereand there with bulrushes, sedges, etc. Towards its banks there is a gooddeal of Santonica, but elsewhere there is no good fodder, and whereverthis is the case the camels eat Iris, and destroy themselves. The valleyis sprinkled over with villages and orchards, and is picturesque enough. In one spot, where water runs over the surface, it is delightfully greenand velvety, covered with short grass and trefoil, Carex, etc. 

In cornfields in this direction, Berberidea ranunculiflora is verycommon, Muscari, Hyacinthus, Taraxacum, Plantago. Of animals the Jerboa, sent to Macleod by Mr. Mackenzie, of the Artillery, several specimenshaving been caught here: presenting affinities obviously with the hare, and analogies with the Kangaroo. Macleod has just given me, from hisnamesake of the 3rd Cavalry, a tadpole-like animal, very similar to onefrom the Khasiya Hills. I fear it is a tadpole, but I keep the specimenlest it should be a Lepidosiren. 

The orchards here consist of cherry, and a pomaceous tree which also iscultivated at Shikarpore, and on the skirts occasionally of willows, which, were they unmutilated, would be handsome trees. The Punjabi nameof the pomaceous one is _Sai-oo_, of the cherry or plum _Aloochah_. 

Senecionoid glauca is extremely common towards the river, but is noteaten by camels. In the streams arising from springs a Myriophylloidesis very common; as also in some places, Ranunculus aquaticus, Beccabunga, Mentha piperitioid, a Sicyoid, Juncus, Coniferae, and Cariceae, allsmall. 

Along the banks of the river, there is a good deal of a small thornyshrub with white bark and fleshy clavato-spathulate leaves. Themopsis isextremely common, Crucifera glauca ditto, Peganum less so, Achilleoidesis very common. In damp spots a Lotus (out of flower) occurs. Theground is covered in many places with an efflorescence of saltpetre. 

_Quettah_. --The country was so disturbed throughout the greater part ofthe line, and attacks on followers so frequent, that I did not go out somuch during the last few days as I otherwise would. The only plant thatseems to a considerable extent local, is the larger Asphodel, which ishowever found occasionally towards Kuchlak. Within the last few daysvegetation has rapidly progressed; the orchards bursting into leaf, andthe whole plain, where uncultivated, is assuming a greenish tint. I havenothing to add respecting the botany, except having found Ceratophyllumand two species of Chara, one a very interesting species from having thejoints furnished with semi-reflexed, very narrow leaves, it is apparentlyDioeceous, there is also a Naiad, much like that found at Dadur. NoLemnae occur among the vegetation: there is some sort of pea cultivated:but the chief object is wheat, then next to it in extent is Lucerne, which is cultivated in plots; the ground being laid out as in wheat, soas to allow of irrigation. 

The climate is variable; rain generally falls every four or five days, before this happens it becomes hot and hazy, afterwards it is very coldand clear: the alternations are hence very great. From the thermometerimmersed in the fount of a spring gushing out from a _Kabreeza_, the meantemperature would appear to be 56 degrees. Water running in cuts closeto it, was 66 degrees. A Tauschia occurs in abundance near the spot, andis remarkable for illustrating the nature of the leaves of the upperparts; it is curious that all such have a peculiar aspect. (For otherplants of this neighbourhood, see Cat. And Icones. )

The town although the third in Khorassan, is a miserable place and has adeserted aspect, the houses are of the most temporary construction, andthe hill is crowned by a poor half-ruined _kucha_ fort; the gates of thetown are ornamented with wild goats' horns and heads. There is no trade, and the place is stated to be plundered often by Caukers. Orchards--apricots of large size, and very large cherry trees, apomaceous plant with the habit of poplar, occurs; the Ulmus of this placeis one of the largest sized trees; no walnuts. 

_April 6th_. --Left Quettah for Kuchlak. We traversed the sandy plainand then ascended the gravelly slope to the pass traversed beforereaching Kuchlak, the ascent and descent were about equal, but the formerwas long and gradual, the latter rapid and short. The features of thecountry are precisely the same; the pass is short, the descent to theravine, which in the rains is evidently a watercourse, short and steep, not 100 feet. The mountains forming the sides are steep; and those tothe left, bold and romantic, with here and there a small tree. The plainof Kuchlak is like that of Quettah, well supplied with water-cuts and onesmall canal, but miserably cultivated, and with very few villages. Thehills forming its west boundary are low, rugged, and curiously variegatedwith red and white. Tuckatoo forms part of its eastern boundary: no snowis visible on its face towards Kuchlak: a few low rounded hillocks occurin the centre of the valley. The chief vegetation round the camp, isSantonica. We encamped close to the western boundary of the valley, about two miles from the grand camp: total distance of the march thirteenand a half miles. The climate is very hot and variable; thermometerranged to-day from 40 degrees to 86 degrees. 

The chief vegetation of the gravelly slopes is as marked as ever, anddiffers entirely from that of the sandy tillable portion; it consists ofCentaurea fruticosa, C. Spinosa, Anthylloides or Ononoides, Astragalusspinosus, and Staticoides, another thorny Composita occurs, but is notcommon, the herbaceous plants are Cruciferae in large numbers, as well asCompositae; of Boragineae, a good many, some Labiatae, a large Salvia:towards the tillable lands or where gravelly places occur among these, Asphodelus is common with Cheiranthus; one or more fruticose Dianthioccur in these places, and a curious shrubby Polygonum. 

In dry watercourses Cytisus is common, with a host of small Cruciferae, Boragineae, and Compositae; Papaveraceae are very common with Glaucium. 

The novelties in the pass were Ficus, Lycium, some grasses, Onosma. (SeeCat. From Nos. 411 to 430, ) Marchantiaceae. 

_7th_. --Proceeded to Hydozee, distance eight miles. The country is verybarren, diversified by curious low hills, of a red, white, or yellowishcolour, divided by small bits of plain, which in some cases were a gooddeal cut up by ravines. Passed immediately on starting, the SudoozyeLora, here a sluggish muddy stream, knee-deep, twenty yards wide, and inaddition to a bad dry cut, we passed likewise another little stream witha pebbly bottom and rapid current. 

The crops composing the very little cultivation seen before arriving, were backward and scanty: so were those at Hydozee. The chief vegetationis Santonica; here and there are gravelly spots with Centaurea fruticosa, spinosa; Statice, Salvia, etc. Re-occur. The commonest shrub along thewatercourses is Lycium, with another Lycioid thorny plant. 

The low hills were in some cases stratified, the strata in others andperhaps in most were indistinct: most were rounded, but the outlines at adistance were very diversified. The novelties today were a finevesicular calyxed Astragalus, an Isatidea, tulip of red, orange, andyellow, indiscriminately mixed, Papaver Rheas, Cheiranthus lapidium, Asphodels both sorts, but the second and larger one is uncommon, Iris_Stacyana_ very common in sandy places, Iris agrestis, most common aboutSuddozye, Adonis, and Ranunculus Anemoides occurs. Snow on north side ofTuckatoo mountain as heavy as on Chiltera; the valley of Pisheen is herea miserable place, narrower than that of Quettah. 

_9th_. --Advanced to Hykulzyea, distance twelve miles to the town, abouteleven through a similar country with that previously noted, and untilthe expanded part of the valley of Pisheen is entered the aspect is verybarren; the road extends between low rounded hills. After crossing thevalley of Hydozyea, three streams are passed, none of any size. Botanicalfeatures continue the same, Santonica being still the prevailing plant. The curious frutex pluvinatus of Sinab re-occurred, together with anadditional subspiny Astragaloid shrub and a small Ruta. The hills arecovered with distinct small shrubs, never coalescing into patches. Peganum continues in addition to the other plants: Glaucioides hasaqueous juice, Papaver Rheas ditto, the other smooth-leaved one has itslightly milky. 

Lycium and Tamarisk 4-fida is rather common: Hykulzyea is a far largerplace than Quettah, but miserably defended. The houses are veryinferior, consisting of thatch and mud. The cultivation of wheat israther extensive around. Many villages are seen towards the hills to thenorth and NNE. ; also one or two forts, but not a tree is to be seen inthe valley which is comparatively very large and very level. The hillsto the north have the ordinary appearance; those separating us from thevalley of Hydozyea, more especially the lower ranges, are so confusedthat they look like a chopping sea, and present a red and white colour. The rock pigeon of Loodianah is common about Hydozyea. A few noveltiesoccurred in the vegetation, the chief of which being a large SalvoidLabiata, a plant which is very common throughout Khorassan from Sinab ingravelly spots. Leguminosae, Boragineae, Compositae, Cruciferae, andLabiatae, are the prevailing plants; Salsola tertia not uncommon. Birdsas before, Alauda cristata, and Sylvioides being the most common; no redlegged crows were seen. Rock pigeons are abundant. 

_10th_. --March to Berumby, distance thirteen miles, the road very bad inone or two places: the first difficulty being a rather deep ravine, thesecond a nullah, with water knee-deep, and very high precipitous banks, yet both these had to be passed. Much of the baggage was not up at theencampment until 5 P. M. , although we started at 3 A. M. , but the nullahwas literally choked up with camels. No change in the vegetation hasappeared, except in the occurrence of large tracts of Tamarisk, whichtree reaches to nearly the same size as the _Jhow_. Very littlecultivation is to be seen; the villages are tolerably numerous, especially near the hills forming the north boundary of the valley. 

_11th_. --Entered the pass which is at first wide, with a gradual ascent, but which soon becomes narrowish, with a good though gradual and easyascent: the mountains are of no height, and they are not generallyprecipitous: no limestone, but much clay slate occurs. The ravine upwhich we passed, or rather watercourse, was well stocked withXanthoxylon, some of large size as to the diameter of trunk, but verystumpy: water is found not far from the entrance: some cultivation alsooccurs and one large walled village, Dera Abdoollah Khan, lay to ourleft. Not much change in the vegetation: Xanthoxylon is almost entirelyconfined to ravines, Cerasus common, and one or two other prickly shrubs, and a Ruta, Onosma, Linarea, coming into flower, are among the novelties. 

We encamped where the pass becomes narrow, and the ascent steep, andwhere water is plentiful, but the stream being soon absorbed does notappear to run down the main ravine at this season. 

_12th_. --Halted, to make the road where the main ascent commences about400 yards from our camp, and which is about 300 feet high; thence thereis a descent, and afterwards an ascent to about 600 feet above the camp, whence the _low_ plains of Candahar are visible, as well as the range tothe north of which Candahar stands. The road is good compared withplaces elsewhere to be seen, and for common traffic on camels may be easyenough; but for guns, it is steep and difficult. The way it has beenmade by the Engineers is admirable and rapid; three other passes withoutroads, and in their rude natural state are as yet to be crossed. Thepass here is narrow, none of the hills rise more than 1, 000 feet aboveit, they are easily accessible, and are composed chiefly of clay slate. Chikores are frequent. The cuckoo was heard to-day, as well as abeautifully melodious titmouse, with a black crown: a fine eagle, orfalcon was seen. 

The hills are as usual barren, all the shrubs are thorny, and all theplants unsocial, never coalescing into any thing like groups. TheXanthoxylon is found throughout in ravines up to nearly 7, 000 feet, theutmost height of the pass. Fraxmus of Chiltera also occurs, Cerasusprimus, in abundance, Cerasus alius, tertius, not uncommon, Berberis!here and there in ravines, Equisetoides, Caraganoides altera; the mostcommon shrubs of any size are Cerasus primus. The other shrubs consistof the low customary Compositae, and Astragaleae, Umbelliferae arecommon, among which last the Nari, a species of Assafoetida occurs? Abeautiful Iris is common, as well as tufts of Berberideae, Asphodelusmajor, and which is much eaten when cooked as a _turkaree_ by our hungryfollowers, Eryngioides, Aconitoides, a Valeriana, three new smallVeronicae, small Cruciferae, Silenaceae, Boragineae, and Labiatae, formthe bulk of the herbaceous vegetation. An Arenarioid, Muscoid, Cruciferae, common at the head of the pass. A large Acanthoid leavedUmbellifera, a Rheoides papillis verrucosum, this is a true Rheum, andwhen cultivated becomes the _Ruwash_ of the Affghanistans; it is verycommon on the Candahar face of the pass, particularly about Chokey, whereit is in flower. 

_13th_. --Proceeded to Chokey, not quite four miles. The top of the passmay be reached by three or four passes. I went by one to the right, which is easy enough, and the descent from which is much better adaptedfor camels than the made road, which is very steep, with two sharp turns, but soft. The descent thence is gradual, down one of the ordinaryravines, well clothed with the usual shrubs and Xanthoxylon: our camelswere a good deal fagged, but more from the halt at the pass, where somecathartic plant abounds and weakens them very much, than fatigue. Theview from the top of the pass is very extensive: the plains are seen tohave nearly the same level, and are divided here and there veryfrequently to north-east and north, by the ordinary mountains. 

_14th_. --Halt; water here is not abundant, and is obtained from dribletsand pools; around these, the surface is covered with a rich sward, whichaffords fine fodder for a small number of horses. In the swampy spots, _Beccabunga_, Anagallis, Mentha, Carex, Glaux, apparently identical (sofar as a memory of 7 years may be trusted, ) with the English plant, thesmall variety of Leontodon, Medicaginoides, Phleum, and the very smallAmaranthoid, Polygonea, occur. 

The hills around Chokey, and below it are rounded, those towards the passbeing more steep. They are covered with Centaurea fruticosa, and C. Spinosa, a favourite food of camels when it has young shoots, Santonica, Statice, all of which grow precisely as before, Boragineae, Compositae, Labiatae, and Papilionaceae, are the predominant forms, and mostly of thesame type: I observe a tendency among Boragineae to have cup-shaped nuts. Generally speaking, the plants are the same as those before found. Rheas, Papaver, Glaucium purpureum, especially the two last are common, Labiatasalvoides, Iris persica, and crocifolia (rare), Trichonema, Gentiana, Alyssoides. 

The novelties were Rheum, Silena fruticosa, Linaria, Ruta, Astragalina, 2small Silenaceae, Iris, Glaucium aureo-croceum, a beautiful Boragineaewith cup-shaped nut, Lotoides, an Hippophaoid looking shrub, Scrophulariasp. Singulous, Malthioloids spiralis, Allium, Glaux, Nitella, etc. (SeeCatalogue 482 to 516. ) Graminea very common, Rottboellia andAnthistiria, 2 curious forms, the other more northern, Umbelliferaecommon, Nari much less so than on the south face. 

The vegetation of the summit which is nearly 7, 000 feet, and of peakswhich rise 600 to 700 feet above the pass, has no change, except theabundance of Cruciferae and Muscoides; Cerasus is the chief shrub;Thymelaeus frutex occurs at 6, 500 feet. The prevailing rock is clayslate. 

_16th_. --Marched to Dund-i-Golai, distance fifteen miles, we firstdescended gradually to the plain, and then traversed this until weskirted some low hills, about one and a half mile, from which a pool ofwater was situated, where we halted, and which was fed by a small cutcoming from some distance. The road was very good throughout, the water-cuts although not unfrequent, being either shallow or skirting the leftof the road. The vegetation continued the same as about Chokey, untilthe plains were reached, but the prickly shrub, habitu Berberidioides, became more common in the water-cuts below than I had seen it before, while Santonia, Centaurea spinosa, and the plants of Chokey, disappearedas we reached the plain, except some few herbaceous forms, whichcontinued throughout. I was much indisposed during this march, and forthe time we halted at Dund-i-Golai, a period of four days, was unable togo out, but Capt. Sanders and my people brought me many novelties, whichI have not yet noted down. The chief vegetation of the plain is Salsolatertia, the surface is level and firm, clothed with scattered Salsola anda few stunted herbaceous plants, among which a yellow Centaureoid, aCrucifera siliquis junioribus clavati 4-gonis, were the most common, there was also a curious Thiscoid looking plant. A considerable changecommenced about the low hills, a Thymelaeus shrub, some curious grasses, an Erodium, a Santonica, occupying the places of the former shrubs, andDipsacus or Scabiosa becoming very common. The height of this place isabout 4, 040 feet, the climate most variable. Fahr. Thermometer 48degrees to 105 degrees in single roofed tents. No cultivation seen, apool of water is situated near the hill, and a little is reported assituated half-way between this place and Chokey, this however I did notsee. The country is much parched up, and bears every appearance ofalways having been so; no remains of tanks, villages, etc. Visible. Painted partridges were seen; and the eggs of a large bird like a plover?The wind inclining to be hot, but it is cool up to 7. 5 or 8 A. M. 

Alaudo cristata? and an Alauda with the form of Sylvia. 

_Sunday_, _21st_. --Proceeded to Killa Pootoollah, a distance of tenmiles. The road was good over an open, dry, level country, butintersected with small cuts: some cultivation was passed, but novillages. Some little improvement was observed close to the Garrahhills, which are of the usual description, and of no great height: acurious slip of the strata exhibited itself, in which the upper strataare cut away in the centre as if there had been a watercourse there. Vegetation continues the same. The Thymelaeous shrub and Iris, stilloccur in sandy spots, Allium and a second species; Centaureoides, yellowand pink, Thesioides, a curious sand-binding grass, Salsola tertia mostcommon, and in some open firm places _Joussa_ reappears as it did at Dund-i-Golai: Anthemis occurs, Rheas, Salvioides in stony places, otherwisefew of the plants of the Pisheen side are seen; grapes abundant about oldand new cultivation, Hordeum, Bromus several species, Triticoides, etc. , in profusion. Passed a deep well of considerable diameter, which had anopen communication with a widish and deep canal, the only place I haveseen that would hold a good deal of water; it was cut throughout inshingle, and was perhaps fifty feet in its deepest part. 

_22nd_. --Left Pootoollah for Mailmandah, and on our arrival found some ofthe troops and the cavalry had passed through and made a double march tothe river Lora, a distance in all of twenty-four miles. There is a gooddeal of pure water at Mailmandah running in a cut by the side of that, which is in the rains a considerable stream, also one or two _Kabreezes_about two miles further on, producing excellent water. The road firstled up a ravine of some width, and swardy, and then over low hills, untilwe surmounted these to descend into the valley in which part of the armyhalted. The country continues mostly the same; although if possible itis still more barren than before: the mountains generally are morerugged: the ridges frequently toothed, and the sides precipitous; not atree to be seen except a willow near some water, and a small arbusculoidfig. After passing the halting place we re-ascended an inclined plane, entered a gorge, and again issued out of it: after a short time again weentered into another valley drained by an actual river, _really__containing water_, and bounded to the west and north-west by curiousred low hills, not unlike an embankment. The vegetation continues muchthe same: Salsola tertia very common in some sandy places, Centaureaspinosa, Statice, Santonia, etc. Re-assuming their places on all gravellyslopes: some novelties occurred as (See Catalogue, Nos. 543 to 574inclusive, ) one or two new shrubs, Cytisus, etc. The heat continuesgreat; 102 degrees Fahr. In tents in the middle of the day. We encampedon a flat ground about 200 yards from the river, which contains a gooddeal of water, and has a sluggish stream running to the north, surroundedby mountains, none of any height. Wheat cultivation, Arundo, Vitex, Prunus or Cerasus abundant in the pass to the river, and yet the formerdoes not indicate water as it ought to do, Lycium, Tamarisk, Arundo onthe banks of the river, and Tamarisk in profusion in its bed. 

The cultivation on the opposite side of the river is remarkably clear ofweeds, as compared with the cultivation at Quettah, etc. Achilleoides, Veronica, Iris crocifolia, Phalaris, Chenopodium, Rottboellioides, Hordeum vulgare, being the only or the chief plants cultivated. 

Proceeded next to Dai Hap, thirteen miles, over a similar but even morebarren country, the hills being destitute of all vegetation, except a fewstunted small shrubs, such as Statice. The usual plants recur withshingle and in sand, the chief is a _Santonica_, {349} a few noveltiesoccurred, among which is a curious plant, with large vesiculate petaloidconnectiva. See Catalogue, No. 576, et sequent. 

The hills continue with toothed ridges, near Dai Hap, where water isabundant, but not in the form of a river. Thymelaea occurs in abundance, with a Mimosea fruticosa humilis: a curious hairy-fruited Polygonum etPeganum, is among the most common plants. 

_25th_. --To Khoshab, distance twelve miles, over a large level plain, either sandy, and then generally cultivated, or gravelly, and thenuncultivated: road open: passed two dry beds of rivers: one must be oflarge size, but is very shallow. A new Tamarisk occurs along it; notrees are visible until we approach Candahar: vegetation continues muchthe same. _Santonica_, (see above) Centaurea spinosa, Astragalina(Ononoides recurs), Staticoid, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoid, Peganum, arethe chief plants, especially on gravel; most of the small Cruciferae havedisappeared, Labiata-Salvioides continues; a curious subaphyllousComposita occurs, Iris persica is not uncommon; another Iris is foundhere and there in profusion, with Gnidia in sandy spots, Compositae, Monocotyledons of Abigoon are common in shingle. New rock pigeons. Finemadder cultivation in _khets_. Of birds the yellow hammer occurs. Villages numerous, poor, and though built of mud and straw yet presentabundance of small domes. 

In these dry hot plains the prevailing wind is westerly, blowing verystrong in the heat of the day, and having a tendency to become hot: thethermometer is here 98 degrees. The cultivation of wheat is very generalaround our present encampment which is within four miles of Candahar, thewheat is fine; Lolioides occurs in it. 

_26th_. --Halted: Candahar is hid from us by some low hills, on thesurmounting of which a large straggling place is obscurely visible, interspersed with trees, the valley is much smaller than that in which weare now, which is very extensive. Munjit cultivation is conducted bydeep trenches, it is a different species I think from that of theHimalayas. The bed of the Turnuk is now dry and very shallow: and thehills near us are extremely barren, the chief vegetation beingPaederioides vestila and Staticoides cymosa, Cheiranthus continues. Thevegetation is very poor as indeed it has been since leaving the KhojebAmrah, nor is there any appearance to be seen of a better autumnalvegetation. 

Candahar is visible at a distance of six miles, from some low hills tothe north of our camp. 

_27th_. --Moved to Candahar, skirting the low hills just mentioned andpassed through two villages, a mile from Candahar in a fine open plain. 

Candahar has rather a pleasing aspect; it is situated close to apicturesque range of hills, and is well diversified with trees, barleyand wheat fields. The slope on which the town stands is a parallelogram;towers occur frequently along the wall, which is however, of mud, and notstrong; it is surrounded by a ditch utterly insignificant on account ofits narrowness and shelving banks, this ditch is crossed by aninsignificant causeway. The gate at which I entered is oblique, and isdefended by a tower: it leads into the main street which is rather wideand not very dirty: towards the centre of this you pass under a middlingdome, a street branching off to the right and left; the continuation ofthe main street or bazar leads to the _topekhanah_, or artillery ground, a small space quite disorderly, containing eight or ten guns, most ofthem melted at the mouth; one Sheik 18-pounder of cast iron, another ofEnglish make, 140 years old. From the end of this space you pass overanother similar ditch into the fort, the entrance to which is covered, affording two or three angles capable of good hand to hand defence. Passing thence through some spaces occupied by low buildings, you reachKhoondil Khan's house, an extremely rude looking place outside, but verydifferent within. It consists of two houses, one looking into a smallsquare with a delicious reservoir of water, and some fine and very greenmulberry trees; the ground being laid out as a garden with sweet-william, etc. ; the water is supplied by a small cut, and is seven or eight feetdeep. The garden fronts of both houses are prettily ornamented, one hasa _tharkhanah_, delightfully cool; generally the rooms are small, coatedwith a pretty sort of stucco. The remaining sides of the square areoccupied by offices; small rooms opening into the garden by lattice workevidently denote a portion of the _zenana_. Altogether the Khan must bea man of taste. 

The bazars of the city are well thronged, but the shops are by no meansequal to those of Buhawulpoor, and the manufactures, except those ofearthenware, are utterly insignificant. 

Tobacco, _atta_, _musallahs_, dried fruits, _aloo-bokhara_, figs, apricots, raisins, salt, sugar, a green fruit something between a plumand greengage, meat, onions, salads, _dhie_, _sherbets_, _kubabs_, wicker-work, singing birds, are offered for sale: also abundance of Lucerne andsome _bhoosee_. Altogether it is a busy place, but not so busy as theroad near the gate, which is thronged by followers, and dismountedEuropeans, who are forbidden access to the city without a pass. Tea fromKhiva of good quality is procurable in small quantities. No women butold ones to be seen. The dress of the inhabitants very often, and insome cases very completely, approximates to that of the Chinese. Thefeatures too of most are evidently of Tartar cast, and some wear twotails of plaited hair. Blue seems to be a favourite colour of dress. 

The chief trees about the city are mulberry, a few _Khunjucks_, which isthe Xanthoxylon of Bootan and the Kojhlak passes, occur outside; willowsare frequent, and generally appear to be cultivated, among these aweeping species here and there occurs. 

_May 3rd_. --The resources of the city are evidently small, the onlythings indeed that appear plentiful are earthenware and milk: grain isexcessively dear, but is reported to exist in considerable quantities. Khoondil Khan having ordered all those out of the city, who had notprovided themselves with six months' provisions. _Atta_ or flour is nowselling at two seers a rupee, or 6d per pound, and every thing isproportionally dear: wood excessively so, the chief fuel is derived fromthe _Santonia_, which in some form or other appears to constitute aprincipal feature of the vegetation of Central Asia, and there is someother wood apparently derived from some tree I have not yet seen. 

Some discontent prevails in the town owing to the high price ofprovisions, which is, no doubt, severely felt. The established price ofgrain is at the rate of eight seers the rupee, a rate established by theking, but on occasions like the present there can be no rule. Water isvery abundant, it is to be found within four feet of the surface, andsome regiments have already supplied themselves from this source by meansof temporary wells. The water is excellent. 

Asses, ponies, and horses are common, the former are excellent, 150rupees is a good price for one; they carry heavy loads with theadditional weight of an Affghan on their back; the ponies or tattoes areless valuable, but still they are strong. 

The horses are indifferent; good, generally speaking, but heavy, and withlittle spirit. Excellent milch cows have been procured for twenty-fiverupees, including the calf. Goats are not easily procurable. Sheep(_Doombas_) are common, and afford excellent mutton, they vary in pricefrom two to three rupees. 

Tea from Bokhara is procurable in small quantities; its quality isdecent: it was originally eight rupees a seer but is now thirty. CoarseRussian cloths, and very inferior silks are also procurable. 

The great drawbacks are the want of wood, and above all want ofinhabitants; from what I have seen of the cultivation, the soil appearsto be very capable, and well adapted to barley and wheat; rice might alsobe raised as a summer crop. With regard to water, if there is a scarcityof this element, it is due to the indolence of the people. I have notyet seen any vestiges of buildings, topes, etc. To indicate that Candaharhas ever been a very populous place, the want of trees considering theease with which they may be cultivated, is a strong evidence of theextreme laziness of the Affghans, who appear to me remarkably low in thescale of civilization; and in personal habits, very generallyinexpressibly filthy. 

Poplars, mulberries, and willows are the principal trees: the poplar isvery much akin to the _Sofaida_ of the Sutledge, it is a handsome tree, with a fine roundish crown. The fruit trees generally appear small ingardens; lettuces and onions are commonly cultivated, especially thelatter, fields of Lucerne are very abundant, and I believe clover also; apony load of the former now costs five annas, but it is sufficient for aday's consumption of two or three horses. The pomegranate attains theordinary size. In gardens two or three Ranunculaceae, Jasminum, pinks, sweet-williams, marigolds, stocks, and wall-flowers, are common, with abroad-leaved species of flag, the flowers of which I have not seen. 

The crops vary according to the mode in which they have been watered; ifthis has been properly done, they are rich. Some of the fields aretolerably clean, others filled with weeds, among which a Dipsacea, andone or two Centaureae are very common. 

The villages are not generally defended: each house has its ownstraggling direction, is built of mud, and the roof is generally dome-shaped, and it has its own enclosure within a mud-wall. The houses arevery low, and indicate poverty, and want of ingenuity. The better orderappear always with arched roofs, and none are without picturesque ribsand recesses. 

The vineries here are so well enclosed, that there is no way of accessexcept by scaling the mud-wall: the vines are planted in trenches; a rowon each side, and allowed to run over the elevated spaces between thetrenches. In one garden pomegranates, a pomaceous tree, and mulberries, whose fruit is now ripe but quite devoid of flavour, occurred. AZygophyllum, a beautiful Capparis, an Anthemis, Marrubium, Centaureoides2, occurred as weeds, with Plantago, Phalaris, Cichorium. 

For an excellent register of the thermometer at this place, I am indebtedto the kindness of Dr. Henderson; the range in the open air is from 60degrees to 110 degrees!!!

The variations in the wet bulb are due to the currents of air, whichbeginning about 11 A. M. , pass into a rather constant strongish west windabout 11. 5 or 2 P. M. , and even almost become hot. The climate isexcessively dry, as indicated by the effects it has on furniture, etc. 

The difference of temperature between a tent, even with two flies ordouble roof, and the open air in free situations, is by no means great;thus when the thermometer was 105 degrees in part of my tent, it wasscarcely 110 degrees in the sun; in Capt. Thomson's large tent 102degrees; placed against the outer _kunnat_, it rose to 105 degrees. Hanging free with black cloth round the bulb, 112 degrees. But to shewthe great heating powers of the sun, the thermometer with the bulb, placed on the ground and covered with the loose sand of the surface ofthe soil, rose to 141 degrees. 

Black partridges occur in the cornfields here, but in no great numbers. Much of the cultivation of barley, wheat, and rye, is very luxuriant, butthe proportion of waste, to cultivated land is too considerable to argueeither a large population or active agricultural habits. Pastor roseusoccurs in flocks; it is evidently nearly allied to the _mina_. Thecapabilities of this valley are considerable, more particularly when theextreme readiness with which water is obtained in wells is considered, aswell as the nature of the soil, which is well adapted to husbandry. Candahar, viewed from about a mile to the west of our camp, backed by thepicturesque hills (one bluff one in particular), the numbers and verdureof the trees, the break in the mountains on the Herat road, presents apretty scene. 

_8th_. --The installation of the Shah, which took place to-day on theplain to the north of the city, was a spectacle worth seeing on accountof the grand display of troops; but there were very few of theinhabitants of Candahar or surrounding villages present. Mulberries andapricots are now ripening. Rats, a Viverra with a long body and shortlegs, tawny with brown patches, face broad, blackish-brown, white bandacross the forehead, and white margins to the ears which are large;storks were seen when alarmed. Pastor roseus occurs in flocks; magpies, swallows, swifts, and starlings. There is a garden with some religiousbuildings, to which an avenue of young trees leads in a north-eastdirection from one of the Cabul gates, for there are two on this face. The buildings are not remarkable; nor are the trees, which are small; afew planes (Platanus) occur, the most common is the _Benowsh_, a speciesof ash, (Fraxinus) of no great size or beauty. The elegant palmateleaved Pomacea likewise occurs, with the mulberry: the marigold is agreat favourite. 

The fields are now ripening, this being the harvest-moon. Wild oatsoccur commonly, although they are not made any use of; the seed is large, and ripens sooner than any of the others; from the size of theuncultivated specimens, I am sure that oats would form an excellent crop. 

In the fields Cichorium is very common, and Carduacea, Centaurea cyanea, Dipsaceae, and in certain low places an Arundo, are the most commonweeds; two or three Silenaceae, and Umbelliferae also occur. In theditches Typha, Butomus, watercresses, Alomioides, Ceratophyllum, Lemna_gibba_? Confervae, Gramineae two or three, Ranunculus, Potamogeton, onespecies immersa; Mentha, Sium. 

On the _Chummuns_, which are of no extent, but which are pleasing fromtheir verdure and soft sward chiefly consisting of Carex, Trifolium, Juncus rigidus, Santalacea, and Gentiana likewise prevail. 

The fields of Lucerne are luxuriant, but require much water, the price ofwhich is very dear; one ass-load costs eight annas!!

Iris crocifolia is common in old cultivations. 

The city is situated at the termination of one of the shingly slopes, which are universal between the bases of the hills, and the cultivatedportion of the valley. The ditch is hence shingly, whereas an equaldepth in the cultivated parts would meet nothing but a sandy, light, easily pulverizable brownish-yellow soil, tenacious, and very slipperywhen wet. The tobacco crop is excellent. 

CHAPTER XV. 

_Candahar to Cabul_. 

The good old _Moolla_ of a mosque, to which we resort daily, gives me thefollowing information about the vegetable products of this country, fromwhich it would seem, that every thing not producing food, is looked uponwith contempt. The fruit trees, are--

1. _Sha-aloo_, _Aloo-bookhara_, (damson), which has ripe fruit inAugust, the same time as figs; _Zurd-aloo_, (apricot), _Aloocha_--apricot, _Shuft-aloo_, another kind of apricot; _Unar_, (pomegranate); _Ungoor_, (grapes); _Unjeer_, (guava); _Bihee_, (figs);_Umroot_, _Toot_, (mulberry); _Aloogoordaigoo_, _Shuft-aloo_, all these_Aloos_ being Pomaceous. 

The Elaeagnus is called Sinjit: it produces a small red fruit, used inmedicine as an astringent, it ripens in August, and sells at eight ornine seers the rupee; it is exported in small quantities; but the plantis not much esteemed. 

The _Munjit_ is an article of much consequence; it is exported chiefly toChina and Bombay, some goes to Persia; the roots are occasionally dug upafter two years, but the better practise is to allow them five to seven:the price is six Hindostanee maunds for a rupee. The herb is used forcamel fodder. The Affghan name is _Dlwurrung_. 

The common Artemisia of this place is called _Turk_; the camels are notso fond of it, as they were of the Sinab and Quettah sort; perhaps thisis due to their preferring Joussa, which is found in abundance. 

The carrot is called _Zurduk_; it is dug in the cold months, and sown inJuly; three seers are sold for a pice: both men and cattle use it. 

_Turbooj_, (watermelon, ) ripens in June; it is not watered afterspringing up; four seers are sold for a pice. But I have not seen muchof this fruit. 

The wheat is watered according to the quality of the soil, the better thesoil the less water is required, and this varies from four to eightrepetitions of water. _Jhow_ requires two waterings less. Wheat isconsidered dear if less than one maund is sold for the rupee. One yearago, three maunds of barley, and four of wheat were sold for a rupee. 

Iris odora, _Soosumbur_; (the two kinds, and _Datura_ has the same name)is indigenous. 

The timber trees, or rather trees not producing fruit, and which the_Moolla_ thinks very lightly of, are the _Chenar_, (plane), _Pudda_, (Poplar?), Baid, _Sofaida_. 

The fig trees are often planted in rows, they are very umbrageous, andlook very healthy. These, and the mulberry, are the most common; nextare the bullace and damson. Neither are worth introducing to India, norhave I seen any thing yet in the country that is so. 

It is certainly the interest of the inhabitants to keep the army here aslong as our commissariat places so many rupees in their hands. It mayindeed be questionable whether with an overpowering army, the rates paidfor grain and other supplies for the troops should not be established byauthority rather than advancing money for grain at exorbitant rates, whenthe crops are entirely within the command of foraging parties. _Atta_now sells at two and three-quarter seers the rupee, a mere nominal fall, for the dealers will only give fifteen annas for a Company's rupee. 

There is a curious _hazy_ appearance of the atmosphere over the city inthe evening, occasioned by fine dusty particles from cattle, suspended inair; which, from their fineness, are long in subsiding. 

This curious hazy weather increases daily, yesterday evening was verycloudy, and this morning the wind rather strong and southerly up to 8A. M. : and at 5. 5 P. M. The sun is either quite obscured, or the light sodiminished, that the eye rests without inconvenience on his image. Inthe morning the wind strengthens as the sun attains height and power. 

The old _Moolla_ says that this weather commences in Khorassan with thesetting in of the periodical rains in the north-western provinces ofIndia, and continues with them. From the direction of the wind it isprobably connected with the commencement of the south-west monsoon atBombay, for the rains at Delhi do not commence before June. 

The haze is so strong at times that hills within three to five miles arequite obscured; it tends to diminish the temperature considerably, especially between seven and eight of a morning; curious gusts of hotwinds are observed, even when the general nature of the wind is cool. 

_21st_. --A fine and clear cold morning; thermometer 56 degrees at 7 A. M. In the tent. Air fresh; thermometer 75 degrees at 9 P. M. A few drops ofrain at 12; _cloudy generally_. 

_22nd_. --Thermometer 48 degrees at 5 A. M. Similar weather, clear andelastic: south winds continue but of less strength. 

Easterly wind prevails in the morning up to 9 A. M. , after which hour thewesterly hot wind, variable in strength, sets in: the range of thethermometer is then somewhat increased, although in the house it does notrise above 90 degrees. 

The _Moolla_ tells me, that snow is of rare occurrence at Candahar; hementions one fall in about four or five years. The rains last for threemonths, and happen in winter. During the winter all occupations out ofdoors are suspended, and people wrap themselves up, and sit over fires. 

Clouds are of very rare occurrence, and then only partial. 

The clouds, if resulting from the south-west monsoon, ought to beintercepted by the Paropamisus and Hindoo Koosh, and rain ought to fallalong these and about Ghuznee at this time. In the evening a cool windsets in, indicating a fall of rain somewhere. 

Rarity of dews in Khorassan: as dews depend on a certain amount ofmoisture either in the soil or atmosphere, it follows that in a very dryclimate no dews will occur. The occurrence of the dews here at thisperiod, is another proof that rain must have fallen somewhere (to thesouthward), to which the coolness of the weather is attributable. Yesterday and to-day, the thermometer at 5 A. M. Stood at 48 degrees, 49degrees; at 8 P. M. 75 degrees, 72 degrees, the daily range in the mosqueis from 70 degrees to 80 degrees. Capt. Thomson suggests that the dewsobserved here are either confined to, or much greater in the _Chummuns_, in which the water is very close to the surface, as indicated _inter__alia_ by the green turf. 

The kinds of grapes are numerous; those earliest ripe are the black, anda small red kind called _Roucha_; which will be ripe in the latter end ofthis moon. _Kismiss_ another sort, comes in July. The _Tahibee_ is thebest kind produced here, and the dearest. 

Tobacco is cultivated chiefly along the Arghandab; it is planted aboutthis season, and gathered in two or three months, and requires to bewatered ten or twelve times. 

The barley is now fully ripe, and is generally cut and thrashed in someplaces. Pears in gardens are now ripe. 

Candahar valley is of great extent to the westward, or south-west andSSW. 

The wasps, with large femora, I observe build their mud nests in houses. The rarity of Lepidoptera, except perhaps some nocturnal moths, iscurious; Coleoptera are more common, but inconspicuous. Ants areabundant in the mud walls. A small gnat with large noiseless wings, isvery annoying, and the bite very painful and irritating. Doves, and wildpigeons are tolerably common, as also crested larks, and swifts. Abundance of lizards; a venomous snake of brown colour, having anabruptly attenuated tail. 

Every thing that happens shows how credulous, and how unenquiring we are;and in all cases out of our particular sphere, how extremely apt most areto give excessive credit, where a moderate only is due. It is a generousfailing which it is difficult to condemn, particularly with regard to ourtravellers in this direction. Instance Connolly, and certainly Gerardwhose acquaintance with Burnes and its results demands attention. It issingular that his name scarcely occurs in Burnes' book, although hisscientific knowledge and MSS. Submitted to Government, entitle him to beconsidered an observant, and well-informed traveller. Pottinger isanother instance of what I have said above. 

The general opinion is, and it is one which I have not discardedentirely, that he threw himself into Herat, that he was throughout thesiege daily employed in the front of the garrison, and that it is owingto his personal exertions that Herat was saved. I hear however on goodauthority that he was at Herat accidentally, and wished to leave it whenthe besiegers appeared, but was prevented by want of funds. So anxiouswas he however to get away, as his leave of absence had expired, that hewas obliged to discover himself to Yar Mahommed, and request loans toenable him to rejoin India. The Vizier at once secured him, took him toKamran, and hindered him from leaving, forcing him indeed to thedangerous elevation of British Agent at Herat. His merits, if this betrue, rest on very different grounds from those generally supposed; hiscourage however has been proved of a high moral cast. 

The _Joussa_, the _Moolla_ tells me, is the _Kan Shootur_ or _Shootur__Kan_. Burnes' account of the _Turunjbeen_ or manna is correct, exceptperhaps in the limits he assigns to its production. It is at any rateproduced here and sold in the bazar, its production while the plant is inflower is curious, and worthy of examination; it may however be depositedby an insect, in which case the probable period of its production wouldbe that of inflorescence. 

There is some cultivation of Indian corn here, the plants have nowattained one-third of their growth. 

Except in the immediate vicinity of the town, nothing can exceed thesterility of the valley, or rather its desolation: scarcely a plant, beyond the Peganum and _Joussa_, is to be found. 

_Khaisee_, an excellent smooth skinned apricot, is now ripe, and is oflight yellowish colour, sometimes faintly spotted; it is a product fromgrafts, the seeds are useless, as they do not continue the good qualitiesof the fruit: it is here grafted on _zurd-aloo_, _thulk_, Potentillaquinquefolia. 

Melons and grapes are now coming in; the former, at least those I haveseen, have pale pulp, and are not superior. The grapes first ripe arethe ordinary black sort: we tasted yesterday some very good ones in the_Moolla's_ garden. The _Kismiss_ are especially delicate, and anotherlarge sort of very fine rich flavour, both were rather unripe. Those forpacking are still unripe. The trenches in this garden are very deep: thevines are planted on the northern face only. 

Gardens are very common to the south-west of the town. The valley of theArghandab is the most fertile part of Khorassan I have yet seen. A stripof cultivation extends along the banks of the river, and from these lastnot being high, the stream is easily diverted into channels forirrigation. Seen from any of the neighbouring hills, the valley presentsone uniform belt of verdure, almost as far as the eye can reach, and theview up and down is of some extent. The chief cultivation is wheat, barley, and lucerne; _Chummuns_ also occur. Gardens abound, togetherwith fine groves of mulberry trees, the former are walled in, and areverdant to a degree. 

There is a bluff mountain to the north of Candahar, the disintegration ofwhich is so rapid, that it is evident from the slope of the debris, itwill in time bury the original structures. 

The hills forming the ridge separating Arghandab from Candahar, as wellas all those rugged looking ones about Candahar, are of limestone, theyare much worn by the weather, and full of holes. They are very barren, the only shrubby vegetation of any size being Ficus, which may be thestock of the _Ungoor_, as it resembles it a good deal, Centaurea spinosa, Paederiae 2, Echinops, Pommereulla, one to two, other Graminae, lemon-grass, Dianthus, Peganum, Cheiranthus as before, Sedum rosaceum, Gnaphalium, _Hyoceyamus_, _Didymocarpeae_, Gnidia, etc. 

The Arghandab is a good sized river, with channel subdivided: its streamis rapid and fordable; no large boulders occur in its bed; thetemperature of its water is moderate. 

The fish are a Cyprinus and a Barbus, or Oreinus with small scales, thickleathery mouth, and cirrhi; a Loach of largish size, flat head, reddish, with conspicuous brownish mottlings, and a Silurus. 

The hills forming the northern boundary of the valley are picturesque, and of several series, and perhaps the subordinate valleys are not solarge and fruitful in this direction. 

Between Arghandab and Candahar, two ranges occur; one interrupted: theother nearer Candahar has first to be surmounted at a low pass; the passis short, rugged and impassable for guns. The inner ridge is much closerto the cultivated part of the valley than the northern range. 

Between it and the Arghandab, at least six cuts occur: these are met withgenerally in threes, and are at different elevations; the inner one beingclose at the foot of the hills; great labour must have been required tomake them. Numerous villages, some with flat roofed houses occur. 

Arundo, Salsola, Plantago, P. Coronopoid, Cnicus, Juncus, Veronicaexallata, Santalacea, Mentha, Lactucoides, Chenopod. 2-3, Panicum, Samolus, Ceratophyllum; Salix occurs near the river; apricots, apples, pomegranates, damsons or plums, bullaces, pears, mulberries andraspberries in the gardens. 

The shingle found about all the hills in Khorassan, can scarcely bederived from any source but disintegration, it slopes too gradually anduniformly for upheavement. If my idea is correct, the mountains will atsome period be buried in their own debris, of course inspection of theshingle will at once point out whether this is true or not, moreespecially _in all those places where the rocks are of__uniform structure_. There is a curious desert to the south andsouthwest of Candahar, elevated a good deal above the valley, quite bare, and stretching a long way to the westward: it is seen for forty milesalong the Girishk road. 

_Curious reflection_. --Observed in ghee used as lamp-oil, a bubbleascending from the surface of the water on which it floated, met byanother descending; the deception of this is perfect. That it is due toreflection, is apparent from the variation of the length of the descent, according to the angle under which it is viewed. When viewed frombeneath at a very oblique angle, the descent is complete, but if viewedparallel to the surface, no appearance of the sort occurs. Thereflection is due to the surface of the ghee which appears to be moredense than the rest, probably more oily; this mathematical reflection maysuggest others of a moral nature, touching our liability to mistakenviews of things, from observing only one side. 

Old Candahar is about three miles to west of the new town; it isimmediately under a steep limestone range, running about southwest, andnot exceeding 500 feet in height. It bears marks of having beenfortified, and at either extremity remains of forts are still visible. The fort of forty steps is at the north end of the range. The town is incomplete ruins; indeed none of the edifices are visible except those thatoccupy the mound of stones, (with which they are partly built) probablythe site of the citadel. On three sides, the town is fenced by tworespectable ditches, the outer one about 50 yards wide; both are now, especially the outer, beds of marshes; they were supplied by cuts fromthe Arghandab river. Wells exist however. There is one white mosque ingood preservation. The works were strong, and much better than the veryindifferent ones of new Candahar; and the walls of the town wereprolonged up the face of the hills. 

About Candahar, conical houses occur, probably for granaries. A curiousmosque cut out of the rock in situ, is seen on the Girishk road, with aflight of steps leading to it, cut in like manner out of the rock. Thereis also in the same quarter the fort of Chuhulzeenat, or forty steps; awork not of very considerable extent; and as in other Asiatic countries Ihave visited, troughs are cut in rocks for separating grain from thehusk. But there is no work to be seen indicating vast labour or anygenius. 

Some remains of good pottery may be picked up; and the earth of which theworks, etc. Were made, is filled with remains of coarse pottery. 

_27th_. --Moved four miles to Shorundab, the country is very barren: notmuch _Joussa_: the water is brackish at our present encampment, which iswithin sight of Babawallee. 

_28th_. --Proceeded to Kileeyazim, ten and a quarter miles, marched at 2P. M. And reached the place at 6 P. M. , the camels arriving one hourafterwards: the ground is generally good, throughout stony, difficult inplaces and undulated, particularly in two situations occasioned fromcuts. There is a square fort, situated at the halting place with a towerat each corner, and on north face two; as well as towers at the gate: butwithout windows. _Joussa_ is abundant, as also grass along the cuts. Salsola rotundifolia, a Chenopodia, and a curious prickly, leaflessComposita and _Joussa_ occur, the latter most common, Artemisiae sp. Alsorock pigeons and the raven. Halted one mile to the east of the fort. 

_29th_. --Proceeded to the Turnuk, near Khet-i-Ahkoond, distance fifteenand a half miles. The country continues the same, no cultivation to beseen before reaching the Turnuk. The road tolerable, over gravelly orshingly ground: it was at first level, until we reached a mountain gorge, when it became undulated. Passed the dry beds of two streams, the secondthe larger: its banks were clothed with Vitex instead of Tamarisk. Atthe entrance of gorge a fort similar to that of yesterday was passed. Scarcely any change in vegetation. Artemisiae one or two, Centaureaspinosa, Salsola cordifolia and aphylla? are the most common plants, Euonymus and Malpighiacea? Polygonoides, occurred along the nullah, apretty species of the plant, Antheris globosis petaloideo-terminalis, inprofusion in some places, literally colouring the ground: close to itanother very distinct species, foliis connatis, floribus albis, aRubiaceous crystalline looking plant, another novelty; all the plantsabout the hills at Candahar continue: Dianthoid, Statice, Paederiavillosa. Cultivation along the Turnuk, melons in small trenches, thecrops are now cut, _Jhow_ or _gaz_ along the bank: but there is not muchwater. The hills around are apparently of limestone, very picturesque, and presenting very fine cliffs. The valley of the Turnuk is here verynarrow, and the country very arid looking, completely burnt up. _Joussa_rather scarce, _doob_ grass occurs along the river, the water of which isdiscoloured. 

_30th_. --Proceeded to Shair-i-Suffa, ten miles and six furlongs. Thecountry continues the same. The road extending along the right bank ofthe Turnuk, over undulating ground for one and a half or two miles, isbad, very narrow, and overhanging the steep bank of the river, scarcelypassable for wheel carriages without preparation. Vegetation continuesprecisely the same: little verdure to be seen even along the Turnuk: thehills desperately barren; a high mound occurs in middle of the valleynear our halting place, well adapted for a fort, but unoccupied. Smallfields of cultivation are now seen. A small species of mullet occurs inthe river: thermometer 101 degrees at 1 P. M. In the tent. 

Nothing can exceed the barren aspect of this valley, which is near Khet-i-Ahkoond, but at several miles distance, a few trees are visible in nooks:the only green along the banks of the river, is occasioned apparently byTamarisk: the hills are picturesque, rugged, varied with bold cliffs, thevalleys are changed in structure, being now occupied by rounded undulatedground, instead of hollow basins. 

[River Turnuk banks: m363. Jpg]

_July 1st_. --Proceeded ten miles, and halted on the Turnuk within onemile of the tower of Tirandaz. The country continues precisely the same:the road at first is bad, owing to the inhabitants having tried to floodit. At a distance of six miles we ascended a small defile without anydifficulty; the remainder of the march being over undulating stonyground: the valley then becomes narrow, and we again enter into thearable part, which is especially narrow. The hills present the sameaspect. _Joussa_ very abundant, and also Artemisia, and a Salsoloidesflore ochroleuco. No villages are visible. We are unable to judge ofthe extent of cultivation, because the country, which seems uniformlydried up, is rugged and bouldery: on the right is the old bed of theriver, consisting of dry sand. We crossed one small nullah, when an oldfort became visible on a hill, in the centre of the valley. 

_2nd_. --Proceeded to Toot, a distance of eleven miles, through a similarcountry; the road dividing at the low hills approaching the river andforming its banks, which are in places precipitous; the greater part ofthe difficulties were avoided by taking the lower route, that along thehills being impassable for guns owing to the large rocks scattered inevery direction, and detached from conglomerate hills. Two or threenullahs were passed, one with a little water. The ground was besides agood deal cut up towards the centre of the valley, and a water-cut wascrossed several times. Owing to the delay in making the road, the troopsdid not reach the encamping ground before 8 or 8. 5 P. M. , the camels insome instances not before 12 P. M. An attack is reported to have beenmade on the baggage at the river where the road ascends the cliff: it wasprevented by a party of the 13th, who shot two of the marauders. _Joussa_is plentiful, and Mentha in flower. 

The Turnuk river is 20 feet broad, the current rapid, and the waterdiscoloured; the banks are sandy, 15 feet high: coarse grass, Clematisscandens fol. Ternatisectis pinnatis. _Jhow_ is abundant. 

_3rd_. --From Toot to ----, nine miles and four furlongs. Road decent, over the usual sort of ground, except in one place, where the bankapproaches the river; this defile is much shorter and much easier thanthat at Tirandaz or rather Jillongeer: a small river with a little wateris crossed: here the road for a very short distance bends suddenly to alittle west of north, but having crossed a narrow and deep ravine-likecut, resumes its original direction. The country continues precisely thesame, the valley however becomes narrow and more undulating, while thepeculiar limestone ranges appear to be fewer. Reached the encampingground in very good time, the vegetation almost precisely the same asbefore, but with some willow trees. Many of the ravines are however, actually covered with thickets, apparently of the prickly yellow floweredDioica shrub of _Chummun_; trees and these shrubs occupied by thousandsof a hymenopterous insect or fly. _Joussa_ very abundant: a village, thelights of one were visible _en route_. The water of the Turnuk isstill very much discoloured, its bed shingly, and the ground near it muchcut up: a mill was passed on the river; the valley here not being 500yards wide: the climate is more agreeable, though still very hot in themiddle of the day; in the shade, the air continues pleasant up to 10 A. M. Thunder not heavy, was succeeded by a squall from the ENE. ; little rainfell, but there were clouds of dust. 

_4th_. --Reached Khilat-i-Gilzee, distance thirteen and a half miles, fromour last encampment, direction NE. By E. As before: the aspect of thecountry is unchanged, the road became somewhat difficult about one and ahalf mile from camp, where a defile exists along the hills forming thebank of the river; it was however much easier than that of Botee. Thencewe continued over undulating ground, leaving the Turnuk river to theright, but reverting to it beyond the fort. Half-way the deep and steepchannel of a river presented a serious obstacle; the country graduallyrises until Khilat-i-Gilzee fort is passed, from thence it descendssomewhat. At this place there is a considerable expanse of irregularvalleys; and to south curious low undulated ground occurs: to the south-east is a patch of table land, which is not an uncommon form in theseparts; some cultivation here exists along the Turnuk, which runs half amile below the fort, which is in ruins, occupying a hill not commanded byany near ones. This is of no great height, and has two ramifications, and in the centre the remains of a tower. 

In the valley extending NNE. Two villages with castles occur, togetherwith a good many low trees. Vegetation the same: a curious Antirrhinoidplant occurs out of flower, Echinops, Carduacea, and a curious Centaurea. Wet places abound in Rumex and Tamarisk along the river. Horsemen wereseen after passing the fort: two or three willow trees about thevillages. _Jhow_ or barley is selling for ten seers the rupee, _atta_ orflour at eight. 

_5th_. --Khilat-i-Gilzee is a very uninteresting place, with littleappearance of cultivation. The vegetation of the undulated groundcontinues the same, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthemoides, remains of Tauschia, and the former Cruciferae. The Turnuk discharges a good deal of watermuch discoloured, and forming a series of constant rapids. The mostcommon plants are Artemisiae two or three species, Centaurea spinosa, Salsola luteiflora, Almond groves, Iris crocifolia? vel sp. Affinis, Asphodelus, Mesemb. , Salvioides, Thermopsis, Cichorium, _Joussa_, andMentha recur, the two last in abundance. The new plants are aChenopodium, Polygonum, Lotoides, Triticum, Astragalus, Scirpus, Caesalpinioides, Centaurea micrantha, and Eryngioides: a spring occurs inthe old fort of Khilat-i-Gilzee. 

Indian-corn is just sprouting up, barley and other crops ripe. Latitudeof Khilat-i-Gilzee 32 degrees 7' 30"; altitude, Bar. 24. 740: the climateis disagreeable from the violent sudden extremes to which it is exposed. West winds during day, and east winds of a morning. 

_6th_. --Proceeded to Sir Tasp, ten miles, north-east, road good over anopen undulating country, the only difficulty in the way arising from acut with deep holes in it. Vegetation continues precisely the same:limestone hills less frequent, or at any rate much less rugged, and thecountry assumes a much more open character. Artemisia most abundant, oflarge size, Caesalpinia, Euonymus dioica, Centaurea spinosa, Echinops, new plants two Linariae, Eryngium, Verbascum. Altitude 24. 505, latitude32 degrees 12' 22" north. _Atta_ has risen in price to seven seers arupee. 

_7th_. --Arrived at Nooroock after a march of nine miles; still extendingup the valley in a direction north-east--direct on the star Capella. Thecountry is undulated; vegetation still the same. Artemisia most abundantand of a larger size; road good: no fodder for horses, except along theriver: the valley open, distant hills on either side with a fine range tothe north of the camp, apparently composed of limestone, with abundanceof junipers, and the Iris of Dund-i-Golai very common. Hares, rockpigeons, Alauda. Myriads of Cicada, and the Jerboa rat. The Turnukriver is again occasionally in sight, valley apparently littlecultivated. Stipa very common, as well as Iris, Festuca vivipara, Astragali sp. , and Artemisia. Cloudy evening, followed by a stormynight; wind southerly. 

_8th_. --Reached Tazee, eight miles seven furlongs from Nooroock:direction still the same, no change: the road good, extending over anundulated country, except one or two small nullahs with rather steepbanks. A range of mountains seen to the north, called Kohi-Soork, continue forming a long line, the southern boundary of which is broken:we are encamped opposite a valley running east, presenting muchcultivation: several villages indicated by distant _smoke_: some treesare seen here and there: the face of the valley is rather green, indicating more water than usual. Vegetation is precisely the same; no_Joussa_ or other fodder for camels than Artemisia and spinous Compositae. Morning very cloudy and cold at 12 P. M. The plants met with are Chara, Naiad, Polygoni 3, Malva fl. Amplis lilacinis, on banks of river. 

_9th_. --_Shuftul_, five miles: the direction lay towards the starCapella: road bad, requiring to be made over three difficult ravines, allforming beds of torrents descending from the Koh-i-Soork. The countryotherwise presents the same features. The Turnuk runs close under thesouthern boundary of the valley, and is here a pretty stream ofconsiderable body. _Joussa_ grows abundantly on its immediate banks, together with excellent grass and some clover, one or two new Compositae, one of them a Matthiola, otherwise Artemisiae, Stipa, Centaurea spinaceisherb. Astragalus, and Peganum, are the most common; Muscoides, Plantaginacea reoccur, a curious _leaved_ Composita?

_10th_. --Halted yesterday, and went out along the banks of the Turnuk:where I found twenty-six species not obtained before. Some cultivationwas observed, but as usual weedy, abounding with two species ofCentaurea. In ditches two species of Epilobium, Sparganium, Mentha, Polygonum natans, Ranunculus aquaticus, Lotus, Carex, Astragaloid onswards, on the sandy moist banks of the Turnuk: Epilobium, two Veronicae, several Cyperaceae, 2 or 3 Junci, Cyperus fuscus. Alisma abundant inswamps: small partridges: no chakor: hares, swifts, rock-pigeons. Springsof beautiful clear water: temperature not changeable, 59 degrees; twosmall platiceroid fishes in it; tadpoles. Temperature of the river 78degrees. The fish of this river are the same as those of the Arghandab, the large Cyprinus takes Cicada greedily. The vegetation of the hills isthe same: Cerasus pygmaeus and canus, common; the novelties were a fineComposita, Plectranthus, Ephedra in fruit, Artemisia, and Astragal. , formed the chief bulk; _Joussa_ is common on the river sides. 

This place is 150 feet above the last, yet the increased elevation is notappreciable to the sight: the tents of the army at the Tazee encampmentare distinctly visible. _Atta_ sold, at eight seers yesterday, barleysixteen seers for the rupee. Where the sellers come from I know not. _Atta_ was fifteen seers, but it was soon made eight by the approach ofthe army, and to-day it has risen to four and a half. 

_11th_. --Proceeded to Chushm-i-Shadee, ten miles six furlongs, directionthe same: road good, not requiring any repairs; it continues up thevalley but at a greater distance from the river than before; the valleyis enclosed in hills on both sides. Koh-i-Soork, the northern one, isnot very high, but bold and cliffy, with very little cultivation: thecountry is less undulated. Chushm-i-Shadee is a beautiful spring, notdeep, but extending some distance under ground; large-sized fish arefound in it: apparently Ophiocephali, but only parts of their bodies canbe seen. Indian-corn and madder are cultivated: a new Asteraceous flowerwas found. Passed a small eminence in the centre of the valley, aboutthree miles from Chushm-i-Shadee. _Joussa_ very abundant. Temperatureof spring 59 degrees. 

_12th_. --Reached Chushm-i-Pinjup, six and a half miles, direction morenortherly; keeping Capella a little to the right: the country isprecisely the same, the road good, one or two easy ravines; one withwater in it. 

The valley is rather wider, soil much less shingly, and capable ofcultivation; several patches of trees are visible in many directions, indicating villages. We encamped opposite the entrance or gap betweenthe mountains forming hitherto the southern boundary, and a more loftyrange is seen running parallel with them, about east and west. Thisrange is of considerable height; presenting a _peculiar slope_ risingalmost half-way up, and very conspicuous: four forts are seen in thisdirection; together with several patches of trees, and a good deal ofcultivation, but nothing to what might exist. Artemisia is the chiefshrub; several good springs occur: clover, and good grass are bothabundant for a small party; _Joussa_ in cultivation. The mountain rangeto the north is very fine, and apparently of different formation from theothers; here and there whitish patches occur. There is a very evidentslope, which is very gradual from the northern range to the _peculiar_slope of the southern. 

Several springs of fine water occur: the temperature of which is 60degrees. Fish are abundant about the mouths of these springs, which arelike caves; their waters form one of the heads of the Turnuk, along themMentha, Gramineae 2, Plantago major, Centaurea magnispina, Compositae, Trifolium. In the spring Polygonum natans, and P. Graminifol. , Chara, Cyperacae. 

[Peculiar slope: m368. Jpg]

_13th_. --Gojhan, the distance to this place is 12 miles 6 furlongs: it isnot within sight of the Turnuk, though still up the valley of that river, with the same boundaries: a few ravines were crossed but they were notdifficult: the road, otherwise level, turning most of them, and capableof easy transit. One small stream was passed, when we encamped on asmall cut with excellent water: the banks as usual clovery and grassy;opposite this are two villages on either side of a gorge in the northernboundary, both apparently fortified; the one to the north of the gorge isof large size. The country is not shingly, but the soil is mixed withsmall pebbles; to our right is a bold hill; vegetation the same. _Bicornigera_ planta is very common, and a good deal of maddercultivation occurs; wheat and barley all cut and thrashed or trodden out:_atta_ selling eight and a half seers the rupee. Thermometer at daybreak 49 degrees, the west winds continue strong: they arise about 11A. M. And continue till sunset, sometimes even a little later; they arenot hot. 

This place, and its environs, is one of the most promising looking I haveseen; the whole face of the country being perhaps capable of cultivation. No _Joussa_ seen except perhaps among the cultivated fields; grass isplentiful enough for a small force, and _Boosee_ likewise. 

Quails were seen on the march at some distance: it seems to be a greatcountry for potash, and perhaps for camphor, which is evidently abundantin one species of Artemisia. 

_14th_. --Proceeded to Mookhloor or _Chushm-i-Turnuk_, twelve and ahalf miles; direction about NNE. The country is the same, but the roadis more raviny: certain passes occur about three miles from Gojhan, presenting a fine defile, and some smaller ones afterwards. Vegetationcontinues the same. Artemisiae, Astragali, and Peganum, are most common;observed a new Astragalus. The valley is much wider after passingGojhan; the southern boundary is not so distinct, owing to the haze:there is not much cultivation, which appears to be confined to the slopesunder the hills. Mookhloor is situated under a fine limestone cliff; andan excellent stream of water occurs here, and abundance of fine grassalong the humid banks: along this water villages are abundant, they areall fortified. Trees are plentiful, indeed after Candahar and Arghandab, this is the best looking place we have seen: the view is not distincthowever, owing to the haze above alluded to: beyond the water, lies avast and barren plain. Fish are abundant in the stream, and vegetationluxuriant along its margins. This stream divides into two or threebranches, which are all soon choked up with sedges, etc. , a cut carriesoff the greater part of the water, the slope is to the south, or a littleto the west of south. 

Typha angustifolia occurs in profusion, Mentha, Cochlearia, Epilobiae 2, Calamus abundant, Cyperaceae in profusion, Ranuncul. Aquatic, Alismaditto. The vegetation of the plain where we are encamped is chieflyArtemisia. 

_15th_. --Halted: and I here ascended the hills overhanging the heads ofTurnuk where many villages are visible along its branches, fifty may becounted, but it is not known how many of these are in ruins, the villagesoccur at little distances from each other; the valley is very broad. These hills, which are of conglomerate limestone, except about the upperone-third, which is simple limestone, have no peculiar vegetation. Ficusis the only moderate sized shrub, Asphodelus, Lameoides, Salvia alia, which must be a beautiful species, Labiatae caespitosa, Baehmerioides, Pommereulla, and several grasses, Compositae, Linaria, Senecionoidesglaucescens of Quettah, Dianthoides frutex alius congener, Staticoidesalia, Composita Eryngifolia, Eryngium, Astragali 2, Umbelliferae 2-3, Hibiscus vel Althaei, Rutae sp. ; Frutex pistacioides, Sedoides rosaceus, Onosma, Verbascum, Dipsacea, Cerasus pygmaeus, canus, Scrophulariatertia, Compositae, Labiatae, and grasses, are all the most commonplants. 

The novelties along the water are a pretty species of Astragalus, in turfa Triglochin and Typha in flower, Potamogetons 3-4, and Ecratophyllumoccur: barley is now selling at sixteen seers, wheat at eight seers for arupee. 

_16th_. --Reached Oba-kahreeze, the distance of which from the lastencampment being fourteen miles. The country is open, but veryuninteresting; the boundary hills are scarcely discernible owing to haze:the road is good, and a few small hills occur here and there. Vegetationis comparatively scanty; Astragalus novus, common; the chief plants, however, is another Artemisia of much more medicated qualities than thosepreviously met with, that is, less fragrant, Peganum common. Water isplentiful enough, but fodder is scarce, and scarcely any _Joussa_ occurs;but a good deal of cultivation was passed, consisting of madder, barley, and wheat. A few trees were observed here and there marking the sites ofvillages. The country is much poorer than that at Mookhloor, but almostthe whole expanse of plain is capable of good cultivation: soil pebbly. Fowls a good many are procurable. Apricots are also brought for sale, but very inferior: a striking boundary hill to the north presents arugged, lofty aspect, not less in the peaks than 4, 000 above the plain;several ranges occur, but those to the south are low, rounded, and small;rounded clumps of Astragali are seen. 

_17th_. --Proceeded to Jumrat, 12 miles and 2 furlongs, our directionlying to the north of the star Capella. The country continues to presenta similar aspect: valley expanded, road tolerable, several ravines andbeds of dry watercourses, with sandy bottoms; indeed as compared withyesterday, the soil is much more sandy and less pebbly. Vegetation isthe same, no more dense aggregations of Artemisia fruticosa are seen, butthe plants consisting of scattered Artemisia of yesterday, barelysuffruticose, Peganum, Astragalus, Astragaloid Muscoideus, and Senecioglaucescens. A good deal of cultivation occurs on both sides of theslope towards the southern boundary, which is here lofty, presenting theusual limestone characters. Many villages are seen, all fortified, andabout Jumrat there is the appearance of much population. Jerboas, ravens, rock pigeons, and wild pigeons, are common; hares are uncommon. Very few trees are to be seen, but there is abundance of good water andgrass along the margins of the cut. Sheep are also to be had, but theyare small, and goats for one rupee each, large sheep two rupees: _dhal_, _atta_, barley procurable; and Herat rugs. 

To-day the native troops were put on short rations of twelve _chatacs_;servants, etc. On eight. Horsemen to the number of 100? came to meet theShah, all mounted on decent ponies, but quite incapable of coping withour irregular horse. Barometer 23. 305, thermometer 87 degrees, Wooll. New thermometrical barometer 697. 6, old 595. 8. 

From 11 P. M. To 12 P. M. Heavy rain; very heavy for about twenty minutes, with a threatening aspect in the horizon at 7 A. M. To south by east, fromwhich direction the rain came: thunder and lightning; latter veryfrequent. 

_18th_. --Entered the district of Karabagh, distance to our present placeof encampment from that we had left eight and a half miles. The roaddecent, traversing several watercuts, one or two ravines, and a smallstream, indeed water becomes more abundant to-day than in almost anyother march: our direction lay the same as before, but as we approachedthe low hills, separating us from Ghuznee plain, we proceeded more eastin order to turn them. The features of the country are the same, together with the vegetation, the only novelty being a genuine Staticeand a Cruciferous plant, which I observed at Mookhloor, and a Composita, Echinops spinis radiantibus continued. The medicated suffruticoseArtemisia: _Joussa_ in old cultivation, and Peganum are the most commonplants. 

Grass abundant along the cuts and streamlets, mixed with a pretty newAstragalus, and the Astragalus of Mookhloor, _Composita depressa_, etc. 

The valley narrowing, we halted at the foot of low hills, which we areyet to traverse; the ground about our camp stony and barren, producingAstragalus, thorny Staticoides, Centaurea spinosa, Verbascum, andThapsus. 

The soil of the plain good and deep, as instanced by ravines, and thedeep beds of streamlets. Cultivation is abundant, villages numerous, and, as usual, all walled; their form generally square, with a bastion ateach corner, and often two at each face, in which there is a gate. Thepeople are very confident of their own security in these parts, crowdingto our camp with merchandise. The country continues bare of trees, except about some of the villages; northern boundary hills lofty; acurious snow-like appearance is occasionally produced from denudation ofland slips, like a long wall running along one of the ridges: southernhills distant, presenting limestone characters. 

The articles sold in camp yesterday, were _atta_ (wheat) eight seers, barley sixteen _chenna_, sugar three to four seers. Lucerne abundant, atone rupee four annas a bullock load, _soorais_, _kismiss_, three to fourseers, _zurd-aloo_ twelve seers, dried _toot_ or mulberry one and ahalf seers for a rupee, but these are insipid, very sweet, but also verydirty, _pistacio_ nuts one seer: crops not yet cut, but ripe. 

_Kupra_, cloth of common quality, as well as a black kind called_soosee_. 

Barometer, mean of three observations (12 P. M. , 1 P. M. , 2 P. M. ) 23. 433, thermometer 85 degrees 6'. Wooll. New therm. Bar. Mean of twoobservations, 699. 1, old, 597. 5. Lichens abundant on black _limestone_?rocks. On hills about camp, Labiata nova, and a curious tomentose plantwere the only novelties. 

_19th_. --Proceeded to Argutto, distance nine miles, direction easterly, the country continues unchanged until we ascended gradually the end ofthe low ridge between us and Ghuznee. The slope was very gradual: theroad towards the foot generally sandy, and in some places very bouldery:on surmounting the ridge, which was not 300 feet above the plain, wedescended a trifle, and encamped in an open space with hills to thenorth; this place slopes to the south into the valley up which we havecome for some marches. The valley in this upper portion is not sofertile as the lower parts we have seen lately, still there are a goodmany forts, and some cultivation: one or two cuts were passed, and wateris abundant at our halting place in cuts, or _Kahrezes_, as well as in asmall torrent with a shallow bed. Several forts were seen on the northside, situated in the small ravines of the hills, they are however, mostly ruined. No change in the vegetation. Jerboas not uncommon. AnAccipitrine bird, the same as that obtained at Shair-i-Suffer. 

Horsemen, about thirty, were seen on the hills; they descended thence andskirted the base in number; when they were pursued by our cavalry, butescaped through a ravine which Sturt says, leads into a fine plain withmany forts. The 4th brigade joined with the Shah's force. I observed to-day a curious monstrosity of an Umbelliferous plant, in which the rays ofthe umbellules are soldered together; forming an involucre round theimmersed central solitary female, the male flowers forming the extremeteeth of the involucre. 

Detached thermometer 83 degrees 3', attached ditto 83 degrees 3';barometer 23. 262, mean of three observations: old therm. Bar. 597. 2, newditto 696. 9. Abundance of villages throughout the part of the valleyrunning east, and then north, and many trees. 

[Ghuznee: p373. Jpg]

_20th_. --Proceeded to Nanee, distance eight to ten miles, bearing north-east; after descending slightly from the ground we encamped on, andturning the east extremity of its slope, the road is good, sandy andshingly, running close to low undulated hills. No change in vegetation. Encamped on undulated shingly ground formed from low hills to the north, about half a mile off: Ghuznee is thence visible, situated close under arange of hills, the walls high, having many bastions, and one angle onthe south face. Abundance of villages and topes or groves about thevalley closing up with irregular barren mountains. Picquets were seenabout five miles from our camp, but no appearance of an army aboutGhuznee. 

The valley up which we have come since leaving Mookhloor, runs oppositethis place, from nearly east to north, and apparently, terminates beyondGhuznee; it is highly capable, is well inhabited and much cultivated. Soare all the valleys that we have seen on surmounting the boundary ridges:the villages occupy each indentation of the valley, as well as itsgeneral level. 

Barometer at 1 P. M. 23. 336, thermometer 91 degrees: new thermometric bar. 697. 1, old 597. 2. Latitude mean of three observations 33 degrees 24' 26"North. 

_21st_. --Moved to Ghuznee, ten miles six furlongs. Cavalry in veryregular columns on the left; infantry to the right, and the artillery inthe centre; the park bringing up the rear: to the last moment we were notaware whether the place would hold out or not. The Commander-in-Chiefand staff moved far in advance to reconnoitre until we entered a roadbetween some gardens, at the exit of which we were almost within range ofthe town; here we halted; a fire was soon set up against us from gardensto our left, and somewhat in advance, but all the shots fell far short. On the arrival of the infantry, the light companies of the 16th, the 48thwere sent to clear the gardens, which they easily did, although frombeing trenched vineyards, walled and _treed_, their defence might havebeen very obstinate. In the mean time the guns on the south face of thefortress opened on us, and our artillery forming line at about 800 yardsrange, opened their fire of spherical case and round shot in return;other guns in the fort then opened and a sharp fire was kept up on thosein the gardens by _jhinjals_ and _pigadas_, who when hard pressed tookrefuge in an outwork or round tower. The fire from the south-eastextremity was soon silenced _pro tempore_, the shrapnel practice beingvery effective. The howitzer battery on the extreme left of theartillery line was too great a range, and with the exception of one gun, all the shells fell short. In the _melee_, the Zuburjur 48-pounder, wasdismounted, and carried with it a considerable portion of the wall of thecitadel where it is built upon a scarp in the east face. After somefurther firing, the troops were withdrawn almost without range, butsheltered by gardens and broken ground. From 9 A. M. The engineers withan escort reconnoitred the place, and having ascertained that the onlypracticable point of attack _with our means_ was the Cabul gate, wewere moved off, and marched to the new ground in the evening. Owing tothe difficulty of crossing a river and several cuts which intercepted theway, and formed the worst road for camels and guns I have yet seen, muchof the baggage was not up till twelve next (i. E. This) morning. 

One European was killed, accompanying the escort. Graves severely, andVon Homrig slightly wounded, a _golundauz_ lost his leg, and a few otherswere wounded. Their gun practise in the fortress improved much towardsthe end, and against the reconnoitring party, was said to be good. 

_22nd_. --The ground we now occupy is the mouth of the valley, up whichthe Cabul road runs: our camp stretches obliquely across this; the Shah'scamp taking a curve and resting by its left on the river. On our (i. E. The sappers) right, is a range of hills, from the extremity of which thetown is commanded; between us and the range in question, the 4th brigadeis stationed, and on the other side, the remainder of the infantry. Weare it seems within reach of the long gun, which has been remounted, andoccasionally directs its energies against the Shah's camp. The night wasquiet, the troops completely knocked up by the fatigues of the day, thedistance we came (to the right) was certainly six miles, and that bywhich the infantry moved to the left, was still more. 

The gardens between us and the town are occupied by the enemy, but thevillage of Zenrot on the ridge, is not. Large numbers of cavalry areseen on the other boundary range of the valley, opposite our encampment, certainly 2, 000; this is probably the other son of Dost Mahommud, wholeft the fort with the Gilzee cavalry on the night of our march toGhuznee, for the purpose of attacking our baggage; they were easilydriven from the ridge, which is now occupied by our horse. 

_23rd_. --Ghuznee was taken this morning by a coup-de-main, the wholeaffair was over in half an hour from the time the gate was blown open;there was, however, a good deal of firing afterwards, and some of theinhabitants even held out throughout the day, and caused almost as muchloss as that which occurred in the storm. The affair took place asfollows: the guns moved into position between 12. 5 and 2. 5 P. M. , andabout 3 P. M. Commenced firing at the defences over the gate: under coverof this fire the bags of powder, to the amount of 800 lbs. Were placedagainst the gate by Captain Peat, the hose being fired by Lieut. Durand. In the mean time the road to the gate was occupied by the storming party, the advance of which was composed of the flank companies of all theEuropean Regiments. The head of the advance was once driven back by aresolute party of Affghans, who fought desperately hand to hand, but ajam taking place, the check was only momentary. After clearing the gate, the enemy must have become paralysed, and both town and citadel weregained with an unprecedentedly trifling loss. None of the engineers, orof the party who placed the bags, were touched, although from the enemyburning blue lights they must have been seen distinctly: two, of a fewEuropeans who accompanied Capt. Peat were shot; one killed. During theday a great number of prisoners were taken, among whom was DostMahommud's son; a great number of horses also fell into our hands. 

_24th_. --Ghuznee: by this morning at 9 o'clock every thing was quiet, andthe last holders-out have been taken; strict watch is kept at the gate toprevent plunder, dead horses are now dragged out, and dead men buried:the place looks desolate, but the inhabitants are beginning to return. Itappears to me a very strong, though very irregular place, the strongerfor being so: the streets are very narrow, and dirty enough, houses poor, some said to be good inside, it is a place of considerable size, perhapsone-third less than Candahar. It is surrounded by a wet ditch, of nogreat width, the walls are tall and strong, weakest on the north-eastangle immediately under the citadel; parapets, etc. Are in good repair. The loop holes are however absurd, and even when large are carefullyscreened. The ditch is crossed at the Cabul gate by a stone bridge. TheZuburjur is a very large gun, but almost useless to Affghans, who are nosoldiers. Every side of the town might have been stoutly defended. 

The view from the citadel is extensive and fine, the mountains to thenorth and north-west extremely so, and seem crowded in the view, whilethe river and its cultivation add novelty to an Affghan landscape; manyvillages are visible in every direction, surrounded with gardens andorchards. 

There is a good deal of cultivation all round the town, which is situatedon a sloping mound, separated by the ditch from the ridge forming thenorthern boundary of the valley, up which the Cabul road runs; there is asmall mosque on this ridge, and below it, within 400 yards of theramparts, a small village, from which the attack was best seen. Thegardens are as usual walled, and are all capable of irrigation, the plotsbeing covered with fine grass or clover. Apples, apricots, pears, andplums much like the Orlean's plum, a sort of half greengage, bullace, Elaeagnus, and mulberries, are the principal fruit trees; of these thepear is the best, it is small but well flavoured; the others areindifferent. There are many vineyards dug into shallow trenches: theplum is allied to the egg-plum, but altogether there are four kinds. 

The chief vegetation of the uncultivated ground is a small Salsola, Salsola luteola, this is mixed with Peganum, Santalaceae, Senecionoidesglaucescens, Umbelliferoid bicornigera, Composita, having the decurrentpart of the leaves dislocated and hanging down. Centaurea spinescens, Linaria, _Joussa_, and one or two Astragali. 

The vegetation, with the exception of an Artemisia indicae similis, aMalvacea, and an Orobanche growing on Cucumis sp. , is precisely the sameas that met with from Mookhloor hither, Cichorium, Polygonumgraminifolium natans, and two others, Rumex, Mentha, Epilobiummicranthum, Dandelion, Plantago major, Panicum. 

There are two kinds of willow trees; Thermopsis is not uncommon, Centaurea magnispina and Zygophyllum of Candahar are very common, Sisymbrium, Lophia, Hyoscyamus, Centaurea cyanea, Tauschia. Magpies, Hoopoes, Pastor roseus. Corvus corax, etc. , along the water-cuts. 

Some fine Poplars occur at a village, or rather a Fuqeer's residence;about one and a half mile to the south-west of the town on the road toCandahar, and about it, one or two Carduaceae, one a fine one, to becalled C. Zamufolia, Pomacea acerifolia, also in gardens: among thecultivated plants are maize, fennel, aniseed? Solarium, Bangun! Madder, the beautiful clover of Mookhloor, lucerne, melons, watermelons, cresses, L. Sativum, radishes, onions, beetroot. 

There are no ruins indicating a very extensive old city. About our campare the remains of bunds and old mud walls; near us, and between us andthe city, are two minars, with square tall pedestals, of burnt brick, about 100 feet high, and 600 paces apart: there is nothing striking aboutthem, although they bear evidences of greater architectural skill thanany thing I have seen in the country, excepting the interior of AhmedShah's tomb. The base is angular, fluted, and equals the capital, whichis but little thicker towards its base. They are brick, and derive theirbeauty from the diversity in the situation of the bricks. The onenearest the city is the smaller, and appears perfect, it is likewiseprovided with a staircase: the larger one is broken at the top of thecapital. 

_26th_. --I went to see Mahmoud of Ghuznee's tomb, which is situated in alargish and better than ordinarily built village, about two miles fromthe Cabul gate, on the road to Cabul, at a portion of the valley denselyoccupied with gardens. The situation is bad, and the building whichappears irregular, quite unworthy of notice; it is situated among thecrowded houses of the village, and to be found, must be enquired for. 

At the entrance of the obscure court-yard which leads to it, there is afine rivulet that comes gushing from under some houses, shaded by finemulberry trees; in this court are some remains of Hindoo sculpture inmarble; the way there leads past an ordinary room under some narrowcloisters to the right, then turning to the left one enters anothercourt, on the north side of which is the entrance to the tomb; there isno architectural ornament at all about it, either inside or out. Theroom is an ordinary one, occupied towards the centre by a common oldlooking tomb of white marble, overhung by lettered tapestry, anddecorated with a tiger skin: over the entrance, hang three eggs of theostrich, for which the natives have the very appropriate name of camelbird, and two shells, like the Hindoo conches, but smaller. The roof isin bad order, and appears to have been carved. The doors appear old;they are much carved, but the carvings are effaced; they are notremarkable for size, beauty, or mass; and appear to be cut from some firwood, although the people say they are sandal wood. The tomb strikinglyconfirms the idea that the Putans became improved through theirconnection with Hindoostanees, rather than the reverse; the tomb isunworthy of a great conqueror. 

I then ascended the ridge, and descended along it to the picquets on theflank of our camp. This ridge, like all the low ones from Mookhloor tothis place, is rounded, very shingly, and generally on the northern face, is partly covered with rocks, apparently limestone. The vegetationpresents nothing unusual, with the exception of a very large Cnicus, Cnicoideus zamiafolius, capitulis parvis, an Umbellifera, a Scutellaria, Dipsacus; otherwise they are thinly scattered with two or threeAstragali, two or three Artemisiae, among which A. Gossypifera is themost common, Labiata fragrans of Karabagh, Senecio glaucescens, Compositae, Eryngioides, Centaurea alia, magnispinae affinis, Santalacea, Leucades, Onosma major, et alia, foliis angustis, Echinops prima, Sedoides, Cerasus, Canus pygmaeus, Dianthoides alia. 

The view from this ridge is beautiful, it shows that three valleys enterthe Karabagh one about Ghuznee, the largest to the eastward; then theCabul one, then that of the Ghuznee river. The slope of this valley fromthe mountains to the river, presents a very undulated appearance. Thecultivation is confined to the immediate banks of the river, which isthickly inhabited, and to most of the ravines of the mountains, shewingthat water is generally plentiful. The river is to be traced a long wayby means of the line of villages and orchards which follow its banks. 

The mountains are very barren, much varied in the sculpture of theiroutlines, and are by no means so rugged as those of limestone in theTurnuk valley. The lofty one which presents the appearance of a wallnear its ridge, and of snow, alluded to during the march hither on the18th ultimo, is still visible. Considerable as is the cultivation, itbears a very small proportion to the great extent of waste, and probablyuntillable land, untillable from the extreme thinness of the soil and itssuperabundant stones. Cratoegus occurred near Mahmoud's tomb, alsoCentaurea cyanea. 

_29th_. --Halted: nothing new; botany very poor; poorer than ordinary. 

_30th_. --Moved to Shusgao, distance thirteen and three-quarter miles, direction still the same, or, to the north of the star Capella. The roadextends over undulating ground, is cut up by ravines, but easilytraversed, ascending and descending; then crossing a small valley, at thenorth-east corner of which the ghat is visible: the ascent to the mouthof this gorge equals apparently the height attained before descendinginto the valley. The pass is narrow, the sides steep but notprecipitous; the hills are not very rugged, and they are generally thinlyclothed with scattered tufted plants; the pass gradually widens, and hasa ruin or remains of a small fort-like building as at the entrance. Thisruin, or fort, looks down into a poorly inhabited, poorly cultivated, Khorassan valley: road good, with a gradual ascent for one and a halfmile from the exit of the pass, where we encamped, about five miles onthe Cabul side. 

The Botany is rather interesting, the general features are the same asthose of the hills round Ghuznee; the most common plants Senecionoidesglaucus, Plectranthus of Mookhloor in profusion, a new densely tuftedStatice very common, Verbascum, Thapsioides, Linaria, Artemisia verycommon, Cnici, two or three of large stature, Astragali, two or three, Asphodelus luteus, Labiata of Mookhloor, Santalacea, Dipsacus, _Thymus_, Lotoides, Staticoides major. 

In the undulated ground before reaching the valley preceding the pass, afine tall Cnicus occurs, also Plectranthus; Peganum is very common. 

About our halting place the same small Artemisia and Composita dislocataoccur in profusion; Cnicus zamiafolius, Dianthus aglaucine, _Astragalus_, a peculiar prim-looking species. Leguminosae, Muscoides two or three, very large Cnici, Plectranthus, Iris out of flower, Astragali alii, 2-3. 

Cultivation consisting of mustard and very poor crops, of which wheat isthe principal: a few ordinary villages are seen with good and abundantsupplies of water; the country notwithstanding is inferior, as comparedwith that about Ghuznee. The soil coarse and gravelly, or pebbly. Thermometer 47 degrees at 5 A. M. 

After descending from the gorge, the summit of which may be estimated at400 to 500 feet, the ascent is considerable: barometer standing at 1. 5P. M. At 22. 323; thermometer 86 degrees; so that the extreme ascent sinceleaving Ghuznee has certainly been between 1, 100 to 1, 200 feet. 

The inhabitants are coming into camp with articles for sale, as lucerne, clover, coarse rugs, and sheep. 

_31st_. --Proceeded to Huftasya, eight and a quarter miles, directionabout the same, continuing down a narrow valley with a well marked andtolerable road, extending over undulating ground, having a slight descentthroughout: the centre of the valley is cultivated, villages extend upthe ravines of the northern side. We halted near several villages, witha good deal of cultivation around, consisting of beans and mustard. Butfew trees are seen about the villages, and there is no change invegetation: water abundant from covered _kahreezes_ or wells, whichgenerally flow into small tanks. 

The slope of the southern boundary is undulated, that of the northernthough generally flat and uninteresting, yet near us becomes very boldand rugged, but its ravines and passes are easily accessible. 

Shusgao--The plants found here about the cultivation, are Achillaeoides, Asteroides, Plantago major, Hyoscyamus, Tanacetoides, Artemisia, Trifolium, Taraxacum, Mentha, Phalaris, Rumex, the small swardy Carex ofChiltera, Astragalus, calycibus non-inflatis, tomentoso villoso, thislast with Composita dislocata is common on shingly plains. 

On slopes of hills Leucades, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus rare, Dianthoides, Plectranthus very common, Cnici 3 or 4, Labiata of Mookhloor, Senecionoides glaucescens common, Artemisia, sp. Very common, Staticoidesof Dhun-i-Shere, Anthylloides, Verbascum. 

_Hyoscyamus_. The circumcision of the capsule of this genus isapparently in connection with the peculiar induration of the calyx of thefruit; its relations to the capsule is so obvious that its dehiscence isthe only one compatible with the free dissemination of the seeds, _the__calyx remaining entire_. _Hence_? the induration of the calyxshould be the most permanent if it is the cause, but to obviate alldoubts, both calyx, fructus induratus, and capsula circumscissa, shouldenter into the generic character; the unilaterality of capsules, andtheir invariable tendency to look downwards, or rather the inferiorunilaterality, may likewise reasonably be considered connected with thesame structure of calyx, as well as the expanded limb of the calyx. 

The indurated calyx is the cause, because although circumscissa capsulais by no means uncommon, and in others has no relation to the calyx, yetin this genus it has such, and should have in every other similar case. 

_August 1st_. --Hyderkhet, distance ten and a half miles down the samevalley; the road is bad and after crossing the undulating terminations ofthe southern slope, very stony and bouldery; in several places it isnarrow and uneven. The country is well inhabited, and very wellcultivated, particularly towards the bed of the river, which is here andthere ornamented with trees. Numbers of villagers are seen on the roadas spectators. Beans very abundant, mustard less so, excellent crops ofwheat; the fields are well tilled, and very cleanly kept: this portion ofthe valley, though small, is perhaps the best populated and cultivatedplace we have yet seen: the descent throughout is gradual: the boundaryhills, at least lower ranges present a very barren character, coveredwith angular slaty fragments. Some tobacco cultivation. 

_2nd_. --Shekhabad, nine miles and six furlongs, direction north-east byeast. The road throughout is rather bad, particularly in places near theSchneesh river, which has a very rapid current. We left this on itsturning abruptly through a narrow ravine to the south: towards this, thevalley narrows much; we then ascended a rising ground, and descended asmuch or perhaps less until we reached the Logur, a river as large almostas the Arghandab, this we crossed by a bridge composed of stout timbers, laid on two piers composed of stones and bushes, and tied together bybeams: the cavalry and artillery forded below, and above the bridge. Crossing the bed which is low and well cultivated, chiefly with rice, weascended perhaps 100 feet, and encamped on undulating shingly ground; wethen passed much cultivation on the road: villages are plentiful, andoften placed in very narrow gorges unusually picturesque forAffghanistan; one scene was especially pretty, enclosed by the highbarren mountains of the southern boundary, in the distance a village ortwo, and the Schneesh, with banks well wooded, and willows in theforeground. 

The aspect of the hills, except some of the distant ranges, is howeverchanged; quartz has become very common among the shingle, with reddish, generally micaceous, slate: the mountains are rounded, and easy ofaccess: very poorly clothed with vegetation. The course of the Logur isnearly north and south. 

There are some villages about this place, with lucerne, clover andbearded rice of small stature. 

The elevation of the country is here about 100 feet below our camp, whichis about half a mile from the river. Barometer 182, 23. 362; thermometer95 degrees; latitude 34 degrees 5' 30". 

_3rd_. --Halted: the Logur river discharges much water; the whole of thetillable portions of adjacent banks are not under cultivation, the rockysides to the south composed of micaceous slate, are very precipitous;these mountains were originally rounded, but are now formed into cliffs;willows and poplars are abundant along the river. But the vegetation ofthe cliffy sides scarcely presents any change, except in a Salvia, aRuta, a small withered Leguminosa; the other plants are Polygonaceafrutex uncommon, Senecionoides, Salvia Horminum common, Artemisia two:the usual one very common, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoides, and luteus, several Compositae, two or three Cnicoidei, a Pulicaria, etc. Of the samesection, Cuscuta, Linaria angustifolia, Stipa, several withered grasses, Dianthoides, Scrophularia, Allium, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus uncommon, Sedoides, Boragineae, Boraginis facie common, Leucades, Astragali, threeor four, Onosmae 2, angustifolia and majus, Scutellaria, Equisetoides, Ephedra. 

Anthylloides, Plectranthus common, Peganum uncommon, Staticoides major, Compositae dislocata common. 

In the swardy and wet spots along river, the usual plants occur; thenovelty being a Hippuris out of flower, Plantago, Glaux, Chara, Alisma, Tamarisk, Salix, Trifolium fragiferum, Thermopsis, Cyperacea, Triglochim, Equisetum. The _Nuthatch_ found in the cliffs, cultivation occurs. 

To-day news arrived of the flight of Dost Mahommud to Bamean, with 3, 000Affghan Horse. Captain Outram sent in pursuit. The Shah joined us, attended by perhaps 2, 000 Horse, and people are said to be flocking intoour camp from Cabul. 

_4th_. --Proceeded to Killa-Sir-i-Mahommud, distance ten and a half miles, direction north by east, the park of artillery, etc. Remaining behind, the road for the first half extending over undulating ground to the headof the valley, then becoming level and good with some inferiorcultivation: the valley is dry and barren. We encamped on stony groundforming a slight eminence under a beautiful peak, certainly 4, 000 to5, 000 feet above the plain, and hence 12, 000 to 13, 000 feet above thesea. The valley at the base of the hills is occupied by a few villages, but generally speaking little population exists in these parts. Nochange in vegetation; at the level part of the march the Chenopodiaceaeof Karabagh is very common. 

The 2, 000 Dooranees who joined the Shah yesterday dwindled down to 300 bythe evening, and the camp was fired into at night. There is somecultivation about this, chiefly of mustard, carrots, millet and Panicum, Setaria. 

_5th_. --To Maidan, distance eight miles? direction at first as before, but after crossing the river due north, we continued down the valley, passing some villages and cultivation consisting of beans, etc. ; waterbeing abundant about three miles from camp, forming a small brook, whichfalls into the Cabul river at the end of the valley. Before reachingthis we crossed a low spur, and then descended into Maidan valley: whichpresented a beautiful view; much cultivation, and trees abundant alongthe Cabul river. 

Crossing this which is a rapid current one foot deep, twenty yards wide, running south, or in the contrary direction to that which is given inTassin's Map, we ascended an eminence on which a ruinous stone fort isbuilt, we crossed this eminence between the fort and main ridge anddescended into a valley again, keeping above the cultivation at the footof the east boundary range, for about a mile, when we halted. The ruinsof a stone bridge exist over the river, one arch remaining on the leftbank. 

The valley is the prettiest we have seen, the hills to the west and northbeing lofty and picturesque; one to the latter direction presenting anappearance exactly like that of snow on its ridge, quite white, but notchanging even at noon, nor occupying such places, as it would do if itwere snow. The mountains, except those to the west, are not boldlypeaked, the valley is prettily diversified with wood, all of the usualsombre cypress-like appearance, from the trees, especially poplars, beingclipped. Cultivation and water both plentiful: villages and small fortsnumerous, with very barren mountains. This was the place where DostMahommud was to have fought; he could not have selected a better, theridge entering the valley, and the passage of the river, as well as thatof the fort would have afforded good positions: a road however runs roundthe base of the eminence on the river side. By swamping the valley, orcutting a canal, and entrenching himself he might have caused greatdifficulties. Apples are abundant here, rosy and sweet. 

Cultivation of the valley consists of wheat, barley, Cicer, not _chunna_, maize, rice, carrots, beans, peas. 

The river side is well furnished with willows and poplars, Salix vimineaalso occurs; the villages are generally square, with a bastion at eachcorner, and loopholes. Cyprinus microsquamatus, {383} common. 

_6th_. --Arghundee, distance eight miles, direction for the first fourthof the way NE. , then considerably to the eastward, when we soon left thevalley and commenced with an ascent over a low ridge by a vile stony roadover undulating ground. On reaching the ridge a similar descent tookplace, where the road becomes less stony, but much intersected byravines. We encamped about three miles from the ridge, in a ratherbarren narrow valley. Nothing of interest occurred on the road, exceptDost Mahommud's guns, which are the best I have seen in the country. Thehills to our north crowded closely together, the inner ranges are veryhigh, with the appearance of snow. 

Hindoo-koosh is dimly seen in the distance to the eastward. In somestreams water birds, particularly the small kingfisher of India are seen. The Hoopoe is common, Merops, Pastor, and ravens. New plants a Boragineaefloribus infundibuliformis, tubiformibus, loeta caeruleis, venosa roseis, melons. Snow on the Hindoo-koosh: rain in the afternoon, and at night aheavy thunderstorm to the north. 

_7th_. --Kilah-i-Kajee, lies one mile to the eastward: distance ofto-day's march, nine miles? one continued but gradual descent over a bad, frequently very stony road, not much water. Direction at first ENE. , then on descending into the first valley, due east or even to the southof east, we encamped in the centre of a well-cultivated valley; neardense gardens, having good apples; apricots indifferent. Hindoo-koosh ishere more distinctly visible with several ranges interposed; the outlineis rugged, highest point presenting a fine conical irregular peak towardsthe south-east. 

_8th_. --Halted: encamped close to gardens and rich cultivation. Thefields are separated by rows of poplars, willows, and Elaeagnus; scenerypretty from abundance of trees with rice fields interspersed among woods;the umbrageous banks of the rocky river of Cabul, are quite of unusualbeauty for Afghanistan: extensive fields of cultivation lie in thisdirection, as well as across the valley in the direction of Cabul, consisting of rice in great quantities, mixed with much of a Panicumstagninum, lucerne, carrots, peas, quantities of safflower, which appearsto me to be of a different species, wheat and barley both cut, the riceis just in flower. 

In orchards, hazel-nuts, apples, pears, etc. Some of the fruit excellent, particularly pears, but generally they are coarse; apples beautiful tolook at, but poor to the taste, excellent but too luscious plums, goodgrapes, excellent and fine sized peaches, melons as good as those ofCandahar, water melons, cherries of very dark colour. 

Some change is to be observed in the vegetation, see Catalogue, two orthree Labiata, an Ononis, an Aconite, Tussilago? etc. Among the moststriking, Ammannia and Bergioides, remarkable as tropical forms, but itis now hot enough for any plant: rice fields crowded with Cyperaceae andAlisma. 

Crataegus oxycantha, or one very like it. The poplar here grows like theLombardy one, either from cropping or crowding; its leaves (when young)are much smaller! and at this stage it might easily be taken for anotherspecies. 

Heliotropium canus common. The large poplar when young, or even whenmatured, has its younger branches with terminal leaves like the sycamore. The pomaceae-foliis palmatis subtus niveis of Quettah and Candahar arenothing but this poplar in its young state!! Nothing can exceed thedifference between the two, both in shape and tomentum. 

_12th_. --Halted since 10th at Baber's tomb, situated at some finegardens, or rather groves very near the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, andto the right of the entrance into the town. It is a delightfulresidence, and for Afghanistan, a paradise. There are some tanks ofsmall size, around one of which our tents are pitched under the shade ofsycamores and fine poplars; the tank is fed by a fall from a cut aboveits level, and which skirts the range of hills at an elevation of fiftyfeet in some places from its base. The tomb of Baber is poor, as also isthe so-called splendid mosque of Shah Jehan, a small ordinary openedifice of coarse white marble. In the gardens, one finds beautifulsycamores, and several fine poplars both round the tank and in avenues. Below them a Bauhinioid fruit was found, together with abundance ofhawthorn, roses, and jasmines. 

The view from this spot is beautiful, as fine as most woodland scenery. The view from Shah Zumaun's summer-house is also extensive, and not to beexceeded as a cultivated woodland scene; it is variegated with greenswardy commons, presenting all sorts of cultivation; with water, villages, abundance of trees, willows, poplars, hedgerows, and by thegrand but barren mountains surrounding it, the Pughman hills, which mustbe at least 13, 000 feet above the sea. 

The entrance to Cabul on this side, is through a gorge flanked by hills;these to the left are low, those to the right reaching 1, 000 feet, through which the Maidan river, here called the Cabul river, runs; it maybe 100 yards wide. The river is subdivided, and crossed by a ruinedstone bridge of many arches, one parapet of which (the outer) iscontinuous with the wall before mentioned. The gorge is occupied bycultivation of several kinds, having the city wall at its termination, running irregularly across the valley. A village is situated between theentrance of the gorge and the wall. There are no defences to the cityworth mentioning: one enters immediately into narrow dirty streets, withhere and there a fever-breeding stagnant sewer; while the streets arenarrow, the bazars are good, of good breadth, well covered in by flatornamented roofs: the shops are clean, and well laid out. Shoemakers andleather-workers, and fruiterers, are the most common: there arearmourers, blacksmiths, drapers and bakers. Hindoos and Mussulmenintermixed, form the population. There is great bustle and activity, everywhere profusion of fine fruit, especially melons, grapes, and applesare presented. 

_13th_. --I ascended this morning the ridge above us, up which the wallruns; the ascent is, after surmounting the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, considerably steep, and very rugged. The highest position of the wall is1, 150 feet above the city. It is eight feet high, and six or seventhick, composed of slabs of the micaceous slaty stone of the place, cemented by mud, with a parapet of two feet, generally of _kucha_, ormud, with loopholes, and bad embrasures. It is furnished with bastions, but is now in a ruinous state. It is a work completely thrown away. Tothe south, the wall bends eastward, and is continuous with the outworksof the upper citadel; to the north it dips into the gorge, and re-ascendsthe hills on the opposite side. 

From the peak, (which is not the highest point of the ridge, there beingtwo higher to the south, on the nearest of which is a mound, and a smallpillar) a beautiful view is obtained of Cabul, its valley, and itsmountains, together with the far more beautiful valley in which the armyis encamped. 

The town itself presents an irregular outline, and is, with the exceptionof some gardens towards its northern side, some lucerne fields near itscentre, and one or two open spots of small size, densely crowded with theusual terraced-roofed, _kucha_, or mud houses, which are so close, as toshow no streets whatever. 

There is not a single conspicuous building in it, with the exception ofthe lower Bala Hissar and a mosque of small size on the right bank of theriver, occupying an open space near a garden, which alone renders itdistinct. 

The Bala Hissar occupies the eastern corner: its outworks are regularenough. It is surrounded by the remains of a wet ditch; its works havebeen lately improved. Excepting the part occupied by the Shah, etc. Thespace is crowded by houses exactly like the town. The fort to its southand commanding it completely, is the upper citadel, and is altogether outof repair; this continues the defence formed by the wall. The walls ofthe city themselves are not distinguishable, excepting those of thenearest quarter, occupied by Kuzzilbashes. The river intersects thetown, it is crossed by two, three, or perhaps more small stone bridges, and runs nearly due east, and may be traced almost to the foot of theeastern boundary range. From near the mosque a fine straight road runsNNE. Or thereabouts, with avenues of trees of small size near the town. Two other roads are visible on the east side; one is continuous with thatwhich runs along the north face of the lower citadel, it runs due east;and the other slopes towards this, and meets it about two or three milesfrom the city at the end of a low range of hills. 

The valley is not so well cultivated as ours, (i. E. The one in which thearmy is encamped) nor by any means so well wooded; it appears bare someway from the city, but this may arise from the stubble of the prevailingcultivation of wheat and barley. There is abundance of water, the onlydistinct _Chummun_ is to the south of the citadel, it is now under water. 

Some low isolated hills or ranges are interspersed in the valley; ofthese the largest is that running nearly parallel to the central road;the next is due north of the city, and midway between it and the salt-water lake which stretches several miles along the north of the valley, and which appears to be a large body of water. 

The boundary hills are generally fine; to the east is a high scarped boldrange, running nearly due north and south, its terminations being plainlyvisible; near its southern end commences the ridge that forms the obliquesouth boundary of the valley, and which runs up towards the south into afine broadly conical peak, very conspicuous from Arghandab. To the northare the fine Pughman mountains; these run east and west: they are ofgreat elevation, and of fine outline, presenting here and thereappearances of snow. To the west is the walled ridge, not exceeding1, 300 feet in its highest point above the general level; this isinterrupted by the Cabul river, and never reaches such elevations again;before ending to the north, it sends off a spur to the east. 

Beyond the eastern boundary, glimpses of the Hindoo-koosh are obtainable. 

To the west, there are no very high hills visible, excepting the westernpart of the Pughmans; those of our valley are not exceeding 2, 000 feet inheight, and are low to the south, in which direction the Maidan riverflows into the valley. Beyond the highest point of the walled ridge, areseveral crowded high mountains. 

The vegetation of the western hills is not peculiar, Echinops, a tallishCarduacea, Carduacea alia, Senecionoides, Astragali, Artemisiae 2, Statice of Dhuni pass. 

Leucades, Labiata of Karabagh, Gramineae, several small Compositae, foliis dislocatis, Leguminosa, fructu echinatis, Santalacea, Asphodelusluteus, Ruta angustifolia, Umbellifera, foliis maximis of Chiltera, avery stout plant, with a very medicinal gum, a new Polanisioid, aCentaureoid, and a fine Carduacea are to be found in it. 

A Marmot, the size of a large rat, is also found here, the largespecimens are of a reddish tinge, the small ones of a blackish. 

The bazars are crowded all day, and in the morning are obstructed fromasses loaded with wood. Most things are procurable; the cloths seen aremostly the indifferent common kind of cloth related to the Seikh Puttoo;camel hair _chogas_, posteens or coarse blankets; these last indicatingvery cold winters: there are not many other things peculiar--long knives, and the shoes and boots are among the most so, and wretched silkhandkerchiefs. 

The most common grapes are the _kismiss_, a long coarse grape whichanswers for packing, a round, very sweet, purple grape, with large seeds, and small seedless ones intermixed, are all capable of being muchimproved by thinning, and a huge, tough-skinned, coarse, purple grape, ofgood flavour. 

The best peaches have a green appearance, even when ripe; the ordinaryones are coarse, and not well-flavoured; but the Affghans are quiteignorant of the art of packing fruit, and hence most are bruised. 

Two sorts of apples are common, both rosy; one very much so, but muchinferior to the other. 

Pears principally of two kinds, both allied to the common pear in shape;the large ones are very coarse, but well adapted for stewing. 

_Aloocha_ excellent for jellies, as also the cherries: most kinds ofplums are now out of season. 

The melons vary much in quality, the watermelons are generally better, and vary less: the muskmelons I have here seen, are ruined by inattentionto the time of gathering; some are very fine, the pulp is never very deepcoloured; it is very rarely green; some of the Kundah sort are very good;this and the _turbooj_ are both excessively common. The usual Cucurbitais cultivated, as well as the other common cucumber, pumpkin, Luffafoetida, and L. Acutangula. 

Cabbages common, beet root ditto, _bangun_ ditto, excellent spinage(Spinaceae). 

All sorts of spices procurable, but they are generally old: sugar verygood, is sold in flat candied cakes, one and a half inch thick; _koorool_in small cakes resembling chunam. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

_From Cabul to Bamean--The Helmund_, _and Oxus rivers_. 

_24th August_, _1839_. --Left Cabul for Bamean, and marched toUrghundee. 

_25th_. --To the Cabul river, distance twelve and a half miles; divergedfrom the Cabul road at Urghundee Chokey, striking obliquely across aravine that debouches into the main valley at this point. The course ofthe river ENE. Or thereabouts, then we entered a ravine to the west sideof the river, and commenced ascending the pass, which is not difficult, and although rather steep at first, subsequently it becomes merelyundulated, the surrounding hills of the pass have the usual character, but are separated by mere ravines. Vegetation very scanty; Senecionoidesvery common, as also _Joussa_ and Statice of Dund-i-sheer; here I noticedthe Solora found in the wood at Kilatkajee. The Barometer at the summitof the pass, 22. 148: thermometer 60 degrees. An extensive view is hadfrom it, up the Cabul river, the valley of which is well cultivated, butpresents nothing very striking in its neighbouring mountains. Greatnumbers of sheep passed us going towards Cabul, also numbers of Patanswith their families, all on camels, than some of which last nothing couldbe finer. The women's dress consists of loose gowns, generally bluish, with short waists coming almost up under the arms, and leggings of foldedcloths; they are a gipsy-like, sun-burnt, good looking people. Numbersof asses laden with grain were also passed. At the halting placeindifferent apples only were to be had. Slight rain fell in theafternoon from east, then it became heavier from west. 

_26th_. --Distance eight miles, the road lay along the Cabul river up agentle ascent, over undulated ground; features of country the same, villages, etc. , abundant. Heavy rain set in from the west after ourarrival at the encamping ground at 4 P. M. , with thunder. Night hazy, heavy dew. 

_27th_. --To Sir-i-Chushme, distance ten miles, direction continueseasterly up the Cabul river valley: features the same; road generallygood, here and there stony, crossed a large tributary falling into theCabul river, from the north at Juljaily, a large village, the largest inthe valley, and very pretty. Poplars and willows in plenty along river. Near Sir-i-Chushme the valley becomes narrow; the river passing through agorge, on the left side of which on rugged rocky ground, are the remainsof a tower. The rocks here are mica slate, reposing at a considerableangle, occasionally nearly vertical. The surface is thinly vegetated, Silenacea, two or three _Muscoides_ (981), Scrophulariae sp. , common, etc. (see Catal. 971, etc. ) Beyond, the valley again widens, presentingsimilar features to those just mentioned. To the right side of thevalley there is a beautiful narrow ravine, bounded on the south withsprings, to the north by a noble bleak rugged ridge, with much snow; ithas the usual features, namely, a shingly inclined plane between hugehills. The village of Sir-i-Chushme is built on a rising ground or smallspur, surrounded by numerous springs which supply the source of the Cabulriver; the bed of which above them is nearly dry. The springs aboundwith the usual water plants, a Cinclidotoid moss in abundance, a Celtoidtree stands over one spring; Peganum continues. A shallow circular pooloccurs at the foot of the hills, on which the village is built; it iscrowded with the peculiar Cyprinidae of these parts, {390a} some of whichattain three pounds in weight, as also a small loach. {390b}

The cultivation throughout this valley is good. The soil is howeverheavy, but in places it gives way to a brown mould: rice is cultivated upto Julraiz, but not beyond, millet (Setaria), Indian-corn, lucerne, mustard, beet root; beans and peas are very common. 

Great pains are taken with watercuts, which are led off into each ravinethat debouches into the valley, at elevations of sixty to eighty feetabove the river; opposite each, the river where led off is bunded across. The watercuts or courses are in some places built up with stones. Apricottrees continue, also mulberries near Julraiz, but they are notproductive. 

Timber is cut in good quantities, and is floated down in the spring toCabul. We continue to meet flocks of sheep and camels with Patans, Momums, and Ghilzees going to Cabul, thence to Julallabad; after sellingtheir produce at Cabul, they return in the summer to the same pasturages. 

The oxen used to tread out corn are muzzled: grain is winnowed as inEurope by throwing it up in the wind, the corn falls nearest the wind, the coarse chaff next, then the fine chaff. Sir-i-Chushme is about thesame height as the pass into the valley of the Cabul river. 

English Scrophularia were observed to-day at Julraiz. We obtained allprovisions cheap at this place, but of very inferior quality compared toCabul. 

The most common plants are Senecionoides and Plectranthus; Artemisiae oneor two, some Carduaceae. Very few novelties occur: hedges of Hippophaeand roses, Salvia very common to-day; asses were seen laden with dried_Ruwash_ leaves. 

_28th_. --To Yonutt, twelve miles, continued for a short distance up theSir-i-Chushme valley, then we diverged to the north-west, still followingthe principal streamlet up an easy defile; on reaching a beautiful_kila_, differently ornamented from the usual form, we diverged along thesame ravine much more to the west. We continued doing so for five or sixmiles, passing a little cultivation in every possible spot capable of it, and four or five forts. The ascent then commenced to be steeper, stillcontinuing up the watercourse which was very small; this we soon left, passing over five ridges of easy access, the third being the highest. Barometer 20. 365: thermometer 80 degrees at 10. 5 A. M. ; after this wedescended the 5th ridge or kotal, 200 or 300 feet, which is very steep, having a watercourse at its bottom; direction of stream lies to thenorth, thence ascending we again descended gradually over an open stonyridge, until we reached the fort of Yonutt, where we encamped near agreen wet spot, visible for some distance. 

The road here and there was bad owing to stones; except at the lastkotal, or ascent, it was nowhere very steep, but difficult enough forcamels, especially up the ascent of the 1st kotal. It lay up a ravinenot unlike others we have seen, the ascent being considerable, butgradual, when we left the watercourse, however, we came on a differentcountry, very elevated (1st kotal not under 10, 000 feet), longly_undulated_, the mountains generally massive, rounded, here and thererising into peaks, especially to the south, near Yonutt, where there is afine ridge not under 14, 000 or 15, 000 feet, rugged with spots of snow;the mountains to north of this are more rounded; slate and limestoneabundant, but not a tree from the base of the 1st ascent. The ascent isvery practicable, the road is made, or artificial in many places, soilsoft and broken: there is water at seven miles from Sir-i-Chushme, andeven at the foot of the 1st kotal, at least there are two or three of theusual villages; there is one with its wall demolished. Many graniteblocks are strewed on the road. For ponies and horses, even laden, theroad is very easy, but for draft it is difficult. We experienced a coldcutting west wind from 11 A. M. Grass is plentiful along all the moistspots, but it is useless as the camels prefer the Carduacea of thisplace, though a bad fodder for them. 

[Sir-i-Chushme ridges: m392. Jpg]

Not much change was observed in the vegetation for half-way up the 1stkotal or ascent; willows and poplars continue to nearly one mile from thelast village. Here and there along the ravine or streamlet, Salvia isvery common, Senecionoides, Bubonoides on rocky ground, Sinapis, Verbascum decurrens used in the Himalayas for German tinder, Statice ofDund-i-Shere, Muscoides of yesterday, Urtica of Cabul, Malvarotundifolia, Hyoscyamus 1-labiat. , Polygonum prostratum of shinglyspots, Composita dislocata, Leucades, Boraginea, Boraginis fasciae _of__before_. About Kila Moostaffur Khan a coarse tufted grass, Centaureaoligantha common throughout, first found at Khilat-i-Gilzee; Onosmamajor, Cochlearia, Dianthoides. Chenopodium diclinum, villosa, Astragali2-3, Cichorum, Linaria angustifolia, Euphorbia angustifolia, Marrabium, Hyoscyamus of Quettah, Testucoides annua appears about here, Epilobiumminus, Rumex, Lactuca fol. Cost. Subtus spinosis, Melilotus, Sileneangulata, Arenaria, calyce globoso inflato, Echinops of Cabul. The waterplants are precisely the same as those of Cabul. 

For new plants see Catalogue 980, etc. 

Summit of 1st kotal Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Statice grandiflora, Dianthoides, several Astragali, one with the pinnulae dentato serratis, petiola spinosa, a tufted Monocotyledonous plant with terete canaliculatesubulate leaves, _Salvia_, Gramen alterum, Composita dislocata, Carduacea, this is the most common plant on the open rounded parts, whilethe others occupy the rocky sides of the hills. The vegetation ishowever very poor. 

Cultivation various, as seen in different stages along the gorge up tothe ascent. Thus, people are seen ploughing for the next year's cropsamidst stubble fields, and lucerne; but above and throughout the ascent, no crops are cut, while the wheat and barley on the descent are in theear: mustard very common. Several encampments of what are badly calledblack teal, and paths are to be seen very frequently over the hills inmost directions, together with flocks of sheep. A large road leading offto the south-west from the summit is seen; from this our road is well-marked. 

_29th_. --Halted: every tillable spot is made use of about Yonutt, wherethere is a fort with forty families. The crops are chiefly wheat and afour-awned barley, the grain is fine though scanty, and the plants are ofstunted growth. Ravens the same, round-tailed eagle as at Urghundee, andPercnopterus, wagtails, three kinds of Conirostres, and an Alauda arefound here, one or two Sylviae. The sward about this place is abundant, affords good pasturage for a few horses, and water is plentiful. Thissward is chiefly occupied by a Leguminous Caraganoid shrub, ratherthorny, and not unlike some species of Barberry in habit, this isabundant, and is first met with in the ravines beyond the Oonnoo pass, Cyperaceae, viz. 2-3, Carices, small grasses, Leontodon, Astragaloidcaerulens, Trifolium album, Composita corona, Cnicus acaulis, andGentiana pusilla, compose the sward chiefly; in the drier parts of itthere is a very fine Carduacea, which appears very local. 

The hills about are all either clay slate, pure slate, or micaceousslate, the strata generally vertical. 

Descended the ravine which the rivulet passes down, to where it joins theHelmund, the hills bounding it are of no great height, but the slips aresometimes bold. The Helmund runs between rocky cliffs, its bed not muchbroader than the stream, the water is clear, rapid, and the columnconsiderable. 

This gorge is picturesque, the sides being generally precipitous. 

The plants of these hills are, Umbelliferae very common, Statice 2, Carduacea, Ephedra, Labiatae of Karabagh vel similia, Arenarioid out offlower in the crevices, a large Mattheoloid, Leucades, Dianthoides foliisundulatis, Artemisiae two or three, one a peculiar one, No. --a shrubbyAstragalus, stunted scraggy Polanisia of Cabul? Campanula of Karabagh inthe bed of the stream, Cnicus of Kot-i-Ashruf, and Salvia are excessivelycommon, Artemisia pyramidalis, two or three: mosses occur on the banks, and several Gramineae, see Catalogue 1, 005, etc. Cnicus alius, Verbascum. 

[Helmund gorge: m393. Jpg]

_30th_. --We continued ascending gradually, crossing a low ridge coveredwith sward, and then descended to surmount another ridge, which appearedto me to be as high as the top of the Oonnoo. We thence descended, crossing several small ridges; and, at about the distance of five milesfrom the commencement of the day's journey, suddenly turned north, entering a gorge of the usual structure, drained by a small stream, andthence came on the Helmund, not much increased in size as compared withthe point at which we had seen it first, but in a comparatively wide andpartly cultivated ravine, containing three or four ruined forts. Wecontinued a quarter of a mile down the Helmund, then ascended up aconsiderable stream through a similar gorge, until we reached anencamping spot, after performing thirteen and a half miles. Thebarometer at the Helmund stood at 21. 206, thermometer 63 degrees in sun. 

Kohi-Baba is first seen from the first ridge, but it is seen beautifullyfrom the second, and still better from some distance beneath this; it isa noble three-peaked ridge, the eastern peak is the largest, and ofangular, conical shape. The other two are rugged; the central one isperhaps the highest; the lower portions cliffy, evidently slaty. 

The river up which we came after leaving the Helmund, is fully equal tothat in size; it is very rapid: the ravine is very narrow, occasionallywidening into swardy spots. We encamped nearly opposite Kohi-Baba, theconical peak of which here seems a huge rounded mass, with heavy patchesof snow, particularly along the northern ridge: the second range to thesouth is very precipitous and cliffy: at this place a small streamletfalls into the river from the direction of Kohi-Baba. 

No particular change in vegetation is observed: two or three Umbelliferae, a Scrophularia, Geranium, Ranunculus aquaticus, Herba immersa, foliisanguste loratis, Potentilla, _Panserina_, a new Graminea. 

The most common plants are still Carduaceae and Salvia; Rosa occurs also, (Senecionoides ceased some time before) Statice, Scutellaria common, Verbascum, Euphorbia linearifolia, Linaria ditto, Mentha: no change inwater plants, or in those of the sward, Chenopod. Faemin. Villos, coarsegrass, No. 998, common; the chief new feature is _Ruwash_, the dead redleaves of which are abundant. Two villages were passed after leaving theHelmund, both ruined, yet all spots cultivated, several with Cicer. Watercourses as high up cliffs and hills as 100 feet above the river. 

A dreadfully cutting dry wind blows down the ravine, and in our faces allthe way. Limestone cliffs occurred, about which the vegetation becamerich, more especially near a bridge consisting of trees thrown across anarrow portion of the river, at a point where the stream is very deep;near this are two willow trees of a different species. A fine Rosa, anew Epilobium, Aconitum, Salisburifolium, a small Crucifera, one or twoCompositae, a curious Polygonum, a Rumex, a Dianthus, Silene, three orfour Umbelliferae, among which is the yellow Ferula? of the Kojhuk pass, two or three new Leguminosae, Saponaria, Silenacea inflata, Cerastium maybe found among them, or in the fields close by. 

_31st_. --We ascended the high bank or cliff over the bridge, andcontinued up the ravine which lies over the river, but whose bed is toonarrow for a road: we passed two or three villages, the road undulatingover ground covered with granite boulders, or rather small masses, rounded only when exposed to weather; the bottom of each undulation iscovered with sward and giving exit to a small stream; sometimes we cameon the bed of the river. At six and a half miles we came on a fort, usedas a custom house, and diverged again to the east up a ravine; the Arakroad continuing along the river. We passed another fort, and thencommenced the main ascent of Hajeeguk. In a ravine to the left, 100 feetabove us, was a large mass of half frozen snow: barometer at the foot ofmain ascent 20. 320, thermometer 80 degrees. The ascent is rather steep, but easy enough: barometer 19. 755, thermometer 80 degrees. Thence thedescent was steep for about 800 feet, and then gradual for four or fivemore, when we encamped on sward. From the top of the pass we had abeautiful view of the _ridge_ of Kohi-Baba, running about WNW. , presenting a succession of fine bold rugged peaks, the conical mass wasnot seen well, as there is heavy snow on it, and on some other parts ofthe ridge. 

Water is plentiful in all ravines, the lower parts of which are coveredwith swardy grass. Cultivation is less advanced than at Yonutt, consisting chiefly of barley; every capable spot is made use of. Bouldersof antimony, also a large mountain close to, and on the right of our campcomposed of this ore, which is very heavy; a ruined fort on the hill nearus, shewing again how some of these ridges become disintegrated. A_cafila_ passed with huge loads of cloths of various sorts, carried onasses, going to Bamean: they paid toll I observed at Choky fort. 

The vegetation in the snow ravine was rich, and varied in the swardyspots: Ranunculi 2, Swertia 2-3, Gentiana a fine one, Junci, Carices, Euphrasia, Triglochin, Veronica as before, Cardaminoides; near the snowin sward, a pretty Primula in flower; two other Pediculares. A Brynum onthe dry parts of the ravine, two Astragali in flower 2-3, Cruciferae, Echinops, Carduaceae, Silene pusilla, Stellaria, Campanula odorata, Rutacea about springs, Parnassia? Astragali 3-4, in flower, long pastthis elsewhere, Thalictrioides, Secaloides. 

See Catalogue Nos. --- of exposed face; Staticoides of Yonutt, Graminae998, Carduaceae very common, Statice aliae rare. 

The hill over which the pass runs, is chiefly covered with a herbaceousCarduacea out of flower in profusion, one or two Astragali, anArtemisioid, small Compositae, and the abundant Carduaceae of Yonutt, Astragaloid pinnulis on the west side, _Koollah hujareel_, Statice, Macrantha dentatis; a spinous leaved Carduacea, different from the Zamealeaved ones out of flower, Gramin. 998 common, Chenopodioid? Arenariaspinosa, Onosma, Carduacea alia, two or three Astragalus primus. Altogether the vegetation is different from that of Oonnoo, in thecomparative absence of Statice, Dianthoid, and Astragali. 

Similar swardy spots occur on the west of the pass, a large Swertia, Caraganoid, Carices, etc. As before, Gentiana of Yonutt, a newPotentilla, Salix fruticosa; here also occurs the first Orchidea I haveseen in Khorassan: it belongs to the tribe Orchis, but is out of flower. On the 1st of Sept. , I re-crossed Hajeeguk, directing my way again intothe snow ravine from the top of the pass, and found a number of plants, for which see Catalogue. A Campanula abundant about springs at 12, 400feet. The vegetation of the ravine close by the little fort is rich, andwould repay two or three days' halt, as it runs a long way up theantimony hill, Swertia in profusion, Geranium also, Stellaria, a fineConyzoidia. 

I had here an opportunity of observing the curious effect of a patch ofsnow in retarding vegetation, all the plants about, being as it were aspring flora, even such as at similar elevations elsewhere, were all pastseed; such as Astragalus primus. Again, why do some plants flower soonerat such elevations than at other lower places? such as Cardamine, herepast flower, but not commencing at Cabul; is it because this plant willflower in the winter in Cabul? so there may be a law requiring suchplants to flower in wintery situations by a certain time? The idea isperhaps absurd, as their growth depends exclusively on the power of thesun. 

_September 1st_. --After re-crossing Hajeeguk we continued our march toSohkta, five and a half miles. The road continued along a considerabledescent throughout, at first down the valley in which we had halted tothe west, thence down the large Kulloo valley in a northerly direction;towards the mouth of first ravine or valley it is bad, passing across aland slip, then it crosses the bed of a huge torrent falling at a greatrate, and obstructed with boulders; the right bank, a high almostprecipitous mountain, the left a high aggregate of granitic and otherboulders. Water abundant, divided into three streams or so: this torrentcomes direct from the nearest portion of Kohi-Baba, which appears of easydescent, presenting beautiful peaks. The road then keeps along leftbank, undulating over the ravines, down which water flows from the hillson the eastern side; some of these are very steep, and the road itself isinfamous, as may be supposed, crowded with boulders, and impracticablefor wheeled carriages: one precipitous ravine we passed through, therocks consisted of blackish, curiously laminated, and metallic lookingstone. On descending one steep ravine, we then came on the road leadingup to the Kulloo mountain, where we halted. 

A good many villages, with forts, as usual were passed; the cultivationmore advanced than at our last halt, crops consisting chiefly of barley. One good fort was observed close to our halting place opposite thedirection of the small Kulloo ravine; across the valley a well markedroad is seen running up a part of Kulloo ridge, at a lower elevation thanthat which we crossed. 

Poplars and willows occur in the large valley, particularly towardsSohkta, a small orchard of stunted mulberry trees. Cultivationconsisting of peas; barley of fine grain, resembling wheat when freedfrom the husk. 

The plants of the valley of Kulloo were badly observed, as I was greatlytired and fatigued. Polygonum fruticosum re-occurs, Silene, Clematiserecta, Tragogopon, Salvia but less common, a curious Cruciferous plant, Lactucacea purpurea of Cabul, Chenopodium villosum faemin. Dianthus, Saponaria, Lychnis inflata, oats common in fields, the common thistle, Urtica, Caragana abundant along the bed of the river, Papaver. On rocksabout camp, 2 Salsolae, Glaucum, Umbelliferae of the Yonutt ravine, Artemisiae, Rosa _Ribes_! Scrophularia alia. 

The valley is very narrow at camp, the river running between precipices, in some parts passable without wetting the feet. 

_2nd_. --From Sohkta Kullar-Rood to Topehee, eight and a half miles. Theroad lay in a northerly direction for a quarter of a mile, then turningup a steep ravine, with an ascent for 800 feet; then small descent, thenlevellish, until we came to a black cliff, over which another steeper butlonger ascent extended, then it became levellish for some distance; twoother moderate, extended, longish ascents, led us to the summit, which is500 feet higher than that of Hajeeguk. The descent continued steep andmost tedious on reaching the precipitous ravine of Topehee, the roadwound over small spurs, until we came to a grove of willows near thevillage. The road although steep is not bad, the soil being soft, thatof the upper parts and of the descent, even annoying from the sand, bothmight with little trouble be made easy, but especially the descent. 

The mercury of the Barometer on the summit at 11 A. M. , stood at 19. 513, at 11. 5 A. M. , 19. 506, Thermometer 66 degrees. 

The camels all came up but one, though very slowly; to them as to us, thedescent was more tiring than the ascent. 

From the summit a fine view of Kohi-Baba was obtained, running to NW. ByN. To the NE. , another high range, but not so marked as Kohi-Baba, wasseen running in a similar direction; on this, two considerable peakspresent themselves, but only visible when lower down. 

A splendid view of the Bamean valley is here obtained. We have nowobviously passed the highest ranges: to west where the country is low andflat; to the north, the mountains indistinctly visible, are beautifullyvaried, presenting rugged outlines 10, 000 feet above Bamean, also a viewof an unearthly looking mountain, most variedly sculptured, is obtained, with here and there rich ravines and columnar sided valleys, presentingtints very varied; in those of the lower ranges, rich rosy tints arepredominant; also niches in which gigantic idols are plainly seen: also aview of Goolghoolla, looking as it is in reality, a ruined city: a finegorge apparently beyond the Bamean river, and a large ravine due north, by which I expect the Bamean river reaches the Oxus; not a tree is to beseen, except a few about Bamean. The whole view is indescribablyvolcanic, barren yet rich, requiring much colouring to convey an idea ofit. 

[Bamean Idols: p398. Jpg]

To the top of the pass it is three and a half miles; the character ofKulloo mountain is different from that above described, it is rounded, and composed of a curious compact slate, towards the summit well coveredwith plants, large tufts of Statice, two or three kinds, two undescribed;immense quantities of Artemisia, coarse tufted grasses, Onosma, Carduaceaherbacea of Hajeeguk, uncommon; Triticoides 998, not common; Alium fuscopurpurea common. A few exposed rocks occur on the summit. The ravinesare all dry, there being no water or very little in them, and nocultivation; thus the contrast visible on both sides of the Kulloo riverwhich runs round the foot of the mountain, is remarkable. Vegetationbeing distinct on either side. 

Yet the ravine of Topehee shows, that when exposed to the action ofwater, this rock becomes very precipitous, cliffy, easily dislocated: thelatter part of the road winds over a portion of this. Chakor, Ptarmigana fine bird, voice somewhat like that of a vulture, to which it isperhaps anologous. 

About Sohkta or in ravines, Euphorbia linearifolia, Ephedra, Asteroides, Rosa Ribes, Composita dislocata, Artemisiae, Aster pyramidalis, Chenopodium villosum faem. , Senecionoides. 

Scutellaria, Scrophularia, Santonicoides, Polygonum fruticosum, Salvia, Artemisia linearifolia, Centaurea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Umbelliferaeof Yonutt, Stellaria, Glaucium, Labiata nova, Hyoscyamus minor, Lactucacea, Linaria, Salsola elegans, Marrubium, common thistle, Rumex, Potentilla anserina, Sinapis of Siah-Sung ravine, Berberis, Secaloides, Statice, _Marmots_, Statice glauca pedunculata, Stipha of Nakhood, Aconiti sp. , Ferula? Spiraea facie frutex, Ribes, Muscoides. 

First ridge Dianthoides, Statice three to two glaucous species, onesessile the other pedunculate, Ferula, Scutellaria, Labiatatrumpet-shaped calyces, Astragali, Diacanthus, Stipa, Ribes, Arenariaspinosa, Triticum carneo pubescens, Pulmonaria corolla trumpet-shaped, Salvia sparingly, Pommereulla, Artemisia in profusion, Spiraeoides, Chenopodium villos. , faemin. Parvus, Leguminosae two or three, _Ruwash_sparingly. 

Not much change beyond 12, 000 feet, at that height Glaucium in abundance, with a few Hyoscyamus parvus, Borago. 

Labiatifol, inciso dentatis occurs throughout, Sinapis of Siah-Sungstraggles to 12, 000 feet. 

[Topehee cliffs and ravine: m399. Jpg]

The same vegetation continues down to Topehee; on the red hills over itsravine, the plants are different. Portulacea cana, several prettySalsolae, a Polanisia occurs, with Statice two or three, a stragglingAstragalus, Ferula, Peganum re-appears! Cerasus canus, Carduacea Frutexof Mailmandah, fructibus combretiformibus, Muscoides which is a Sedum, Polygon. Fruticosum common, the usual plants of cultivation, etc. Etc. 

_3rd_. --We proceeded from Topehee to Bamean, a distance of twelve miles, for two and a half miles down Topehee ravine. The road is a decentdescent, although steepish: from thence turning abruptly at the Bameanvalley, we cross the river, which is of considerable size, but fordable, although rapid. The road then extends along the left bank, not in thevalley which is occupied by cultivation, but winding over and round thebases of low hills and cliffs, forming a northern boundary; throughoutthis part the road is villainous, often impeded by huge blocks. After adistance of about ten miles it improves, the valley expanding into acultivated plain. 

Topehee valley narrows towards its mouth or exit, which is walled in byhigh, red, raviny cliffs; above, in its upper parts it is well cultivatedwith beans, barley, wheat, and oats, and contains two villages: it opensinto the Bamean valley at a village also called Topehee, there the Bameanvalley is well cultivated, with oats intermixed with barley or wheat, trefoil, etc. , it then narrows, forming the bed of a ravine occupied byHippophae, Tamarisk, etc. , then it widens again. 

The structure of the hills is curious, and generally exhibiting theappearance of having been much acted on by water. They are often cliffy, composed either of limestone or a soil of red clay, with which saltoccurs in abundance, conspicuous from the white appearance, or springs. Crystals of carbonate of lime are frequent, limestone, or coarseconglomerate with large rounded stones, occurs; together with a curiouslaminated clayey rock, with white and ochraceous layers intermixed. Thetints most various, as well as the sculpture of the mountains: hereravines representing tracery occur: there, columnar curiously carvedcliffs, exhibiting all sorts of fantastic forms: here, as it were, a hillthrown down with numberless blocks into the stream, scattered in everydirection; and here, but this is rare, very red horizontal strata, colours various, generally rosy, especially the clayey cliffs: here andthere the colour of the rock is ochraceous, at one place its structure isslaty. The curious intermixture of these colours owing to the weather, is striking. 

From the head of two of the ravines by which considerable torrents flowinto Bamean river, beautiful views are obtained of the Kohi-Baba, whosepeaks according to native authority, stretch sixty miles to the westwardof Bamean, without much diminution in height. The scenery, however, isless beautiful after emerging into the widened part of the valley, wherethe hills are less varied both in form and tints, than they are in lowerparts: fine views however of Kohi-Baba are occasionally had. 

Salsolae are the prevailing plants of the rocky sides of the valley, Clematis erecta common, here and there a small Statice. 

Caves occur throughout the wide portion of the valley, but chiefly on thenorthern side; they also extend a little way into the narrow portion, where they seem to be excavated into clayey-looking, red, earthylimestone, or more commonly conglomerate, of coarse grey, or reddishcolour. 

The caves are most common in two cliffs composed of conglomerate mixedwith transverse strata of the same rock, 3, 400 feet high, presenting arugged outline; and between the two, which are 800 yards apart, largeidols are carved. These cliffs in some places have suffered little fromthe action of the elements, as testified by the perfect nature of theopening of the caves, and the corners, etc. Of the niches enclosingidols; in others they are furrowed by the action of water; in othersagain slips have taken place to such extent in some, as to cause the fallof all their caves, or of their greater portion, thus exposing thegalleries, etc. 

The base of the cliffs is irregular, formed of the same conglomerate andclay, but covered more or less by boulders, evidently brought down by theriver; by these many caves are choked up, so that originally the cliffmight have been perpendicular to the edge of the base, and if so, thecaves in the cliffs, and the idols, are of later date than those of therugged base. But more probably the cliffs, and the caves, are much asthey were originally, the boulders having been a subsequent deposit. 

The western corner of the cliff beyond the large idol, is much destroyed;on this, the force of the current would have acted: a breakwateroccurring along the returning face. 

The caves are very numerous, but are confined chiefly towards the base ofthe cliffs, not scattered over them as I believe Burnes represents. Theseare of no size, finish, or elegance, and it is only their number, and theextreme obscurity of their history, that makes them interesting; theroofs are usually arched, and the walls are often supplied with niches, and covered with a coating of tar of some thickness, and intenseblackness. The galleries are low, arched, and admit one person at atime, or a line of persons with ease; they often form the ascent to theupper caves now inhabited, but originally they were enclosed in the rock, they are defended in such cases by a parapet. 

The largest caves are those about the idols, but I see none of any size. They are often domed, the spring of the dome is ornamented with aprojecting frieze, some of these are parallelogramic, in one instancewith an ornamented border thus. 

[Part of a frieze in caves near Bamean: m402. Jpg]

Some of the caves are situated as high as, or even above the tops of theidols; all parts within the rock are lighted by small apertures. 

Access to the large idol is destroyed; the smaller one is gained by aspiral staircase of rude construction, and by galleries. The floor ofthe galleries is rugged, the steps and the cement of the conglomeratehaving worn out from between the masses of rock. The images all occupyniches in the face of the hill: two are gigantic, the rest not verylarge. They are generally in the usual sitting posture, and rather highup, while the larger ones are erect, and reach the base of the cliffyportion of the rock. They are all male, and all obviously Boodhistical;witness the breadth, proportion, and shape of the head, and the drapery;both are damaged, but the smaller is the more perfect, the face of thelarge one being removed above the lower lip; the arms are broken off, showing they were occupied by galleries. The drapery is composed ofplaster, and was fixed on by bolts which have fallen out, leaving theholes. The arms in the smaller one are supported by the falling drapery. The height of the large image in the niche is 135 feet. 

The pictures are much damaged, the plaster on which they were paintedbeing mostly very deficient, all the faces are damaged by bullets orother missiles: their execution is indifferent, not superior to modernBurmese paintings; the colours however are good, the figures are eithergrouped or single, and one is in the style of the time of Henry VIII, with a hat and plume, others represent groups flying--one a golden bird, another a man with a hemispherical helmet, all are much damaged. Thehair in some is dressed as in the modern Burmese top-knot, oftensurrounded by a circle. 

Otherwise the niches are not ornamented, except in one instance, as abovealluded to; the head of the smaller figure was formerly covered by theroof, as evident from holes or troughs for timbers in the gallery. Theseholes are now inhabited by pigeons, and the lower ones by cows, donkeys, fowls, kids, dogs; some are filthy apertures blocked up by stone and mudwalls; the doors irregular, and guarded between two giants. 

An old tope occurs near some small figures, it is composed of stones verymuch disintegrated, with curious blocks of _kucha_ work, and largeBabylonish bricks; the smaller figures are much destroyed, somecompletely; all are in alto-relievo. 

The plants about Topehee valley, are Cichorium, Centaurea lutea, Berberiscommon, Salvia, Cicer cultivated, Lucerne, Centaurea angustifolia, Cnicusof Koti-Ashruf, ditto of Karabagh hills, Triticum, Asteroides, Avena, Centaurea glauca, the common thistle, Ephedra, Mentha, Rumex, Melilotus, Medicago, Artemisia pyramidalis, Lychnis inflata, Saponaria, Bromus, Verbascum, Cerasus canus, Ferula, Statice, Salsola, Astragalus, Polygonumfruticosum, Composita dislocata, Clematis erecta, Clematis alia, Echinops, Leucades, Pulicaria fragrans, Hyoscyamus parvus, rare;Geranium, Rosa, Fabago of Maidan, fructi echinatis, Arundo, Hippophae. 

Halted at Bamean till the 6th, and inspected Ghoolghoola or Bheiran, which presents extensive ruins: those of the city are almost destroyed;but those of the citadel are more perfect, and situated on a mound 300feet high, which still stands with steep banks or fortifications, apparently of Kafir origin, generally _kucha_, with bases formed ofboulders. Three lines of defences remain on the valley side; and theremains of a ditch 50 feet broad at the mound on the east side. _Pucka_, or burnt bricks are common among the debris, also pottery, but this is ofthe ordinary sort: I observed but few _pucka_ bricks in the fortificationon the west side. Great masses of rocks have been thrown about near thebuilding of the fort, and some of the lower bastions were built on thesemasses. The mound is chiefly occupied by Salsolaceae, some of whichexist in profusion. Nothing seems to be known about the history of theplace, except that it was built by _Julal_, to whom the Mahommedans fix_Ud-deen_. 

Quails are abundant in the fields about Bamean; it is a curious thingthat in many of these fields oats far preponderate over other grain; yetthey are not cut, although all the seeds have fallen out of the ear! Canit be cultivated solely for the straw?

Fine groves of poplars occur about certain portions of the valley; frombeyond this to the south, a beautiful view is obtained, embodying thecliffs with the large image, and the back hills whose varied surface andtints it is impossible to describe, so as to convey a correct idea oftheir fine effect. The poplar grove contains some ordinary Mahomedan_tombs_. The trees are the P. Heterophylla, but the leaves are muchsmaller and more silvery underneath than usual; a beautiful poplar oflarge size and unencumbered growth, of the same sort occurs in the ravinebeyond the small image. Abundance of wild sheep's heads are preservedabout all the sanctified buildings, together with a few of those of theibex, and fewer of the wild goat. The plants of Bamean require nospecification, the hills are very barren, chiefly occupied by Salsoleae, of which 6 or 7 species occur. 

The water plants continue the same as at Cabul; Hippurus and Triglochin, Mentha, Cochlearia, Naiad? Potamogeton of Siah-Sung, Polypogon. 

The other plants are those found in cultivation, and present no change, Anchusoides alba, abundant. Choughs very abundant; wild pigeons, ravens, Laurus; the nuthatch, a noisy but not unmusical bird, Chakor, togetherwith small partridges, but these are rare; several Conirostres. 

The greatest curiosity is a genuine trout, {404} this appears rare, thespots are very bright, the largest caught was only six pounds in weight. I could not take any even with the fly; but I caught with this, Schizothorax, or one of the universal Khorassan Cyprins. 

The range of the thermometer is great; before sunrise it varies from 28degrees to 30 degrees! in the sun in midday it is 100 degrees! when thereis no wind, and the mornings are delightful. 

One of the long-tailed clumsy Brachypodiums occurs in the fields: bearsalso are found here. 

_Joussa_, Mentha, Tanacetoid, Polypogonum, Cichorium, Plantago, commonthistle, Potamogeton longifolium, Labiata arvensis of Yonutt, Centaurealutea, Cyanea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Hippuris, Ranunculus, Potamogetonpectinata, Triglochin, Convolvulus arvensis, acaulis, Glaux, Capparis ofArghandab, Centranthera pinnatifida, Malva rotundifolia, Asteroides, Lactuca purpurea. 

Salt is obtained in some places from the red earth, as also alum anearthy substance of a whitish or brown colour, and irregular surface, sent in quantities to Mindosh, called Zak. 

_6th_. --To Zohawk, down the valley two miles beyond the mouth of Topeheeravine, or embouchure of the Kulloo-Rood. The angle is occupied by aKafir fort called Kojhuk, of very large size, situated on a precipitousdusky-red and very high rock, facing towards both rivers; the defencesreach down the eastern face of rock to the Kulloo bed, and are in goodpreservation, more ornamented than the modern fort, and betterproportioned. A pretty grass sward occurs here, with Tamarisk. 

The fort must have been of great size, and is chiefly weak, _i. E_. To anative army, from depending on the river for supplies of water, for it iscommanded from the opposite sides of either ravine. The bed of the riverunder the east face, presents the remains of outworks to protect thesupply of water, which is perhaps a sign of its being a recent structure?

The works are good, much better than those of the Affghans, the view ofthe fort from half a mile down the Bamean river, with the sun gilding theruined battlements, while the precipice contrasts with it its dusky-redcolour, is beautiful. 

The Bamean river, especially after receiving the Kulloo-Rood, is ofconsiderable size, but fordable at the head of most of the rapids, itscourse is rapid, and its waters greyish, while those of the Kulloo arequite colourless; its bed is of some width, presenting a capital roadover green sward, with plenty of willows, Lycium, Hippophae, Berberis, and Tamarisk. 

About one mile east of our camp, its ravine turns to the south. Wildducks, quails, chakor, and trout occur whose haunts are in holes, andtaking the worm are easily caught. 

This fort of Kojhuk is as well worth examining as any place we have seen, the dusky-red rocks are coarse conglomerate. A violent wind prevails upthe ravine, commencing about 2 P. M. A curious staircase situated at thecorner towards Bamean, ascends through rock, the bottom of which isdefended by a bastion and round wall; near, or close to this a slip hasoccurred, destroying part of the wall and blocking up one exit. 

Ascended the cliff by the gateway of the Kulloo valley, and found theline of fortifications, with good loop-holes and parapets extend two anda half miles up, a few houses likewise occur. The path leads through theface of the solid rock: abundant defences, with arched buildings occurabove: this cliff is almost totally separated from the upper citadel by aravine: the citadel has four lines of defences surmounting a steep ridgewith outworks on the Kulloo river, the bed of which is 60 yards broad. 

_7th_. --Proceeded to Erak, six miles. We crossed the Kulloo-Rood, andimmediately ascended its right bank, 100 feet high; then descended intothe ravine up which we continued, then leaving it we struck over the spurof a high mountain; the ascent being about 1, 000 feet, thence wecommenced a steep descent, of 5, 600 feet into the Erak valley, up whichwe proceeded for two miles distance and encamped. From the top of thepass, a fine view is obtained of Kojhuk, and the valley of the Bameanriver, presenting a rich and varied surface beyond description, withbeautifully sculptured rocks, of purplish-red colour, which are seen upthe Kulloo, close to Kojhuk. 

The hills and ravines are however very barren, nothing but Salsolaoccurs. At the top of the pass a section is partly laid open, shewing amass of conglomerate, twenty to thirty feet thick, resting on red clay. This conglomerate being less acted on by water than the clay, the rocksoften assume curious shapes, and are occasionally even fungiform. 

[Sculptured rocks near Kojhuk: m406. Jpg]

We observed here a new partridge, at least one to which we were notaccustomed; it is almost the size of chakor, black on the back, with agrey neck, and very shy; chakors abundant here in coveys. The valley ofthe Erak is very narrow, but well cultivated, and with a good manyvillages. 

All the mountains in this direction have rounded shapes or outlines, theprecipices variously curved, the surfaces are thus formed by the actionof water on the outer strata; when this is once exposed, the changesappear often rapid, as may be imagined in a country of such low wintertemperature. Caves occur in the Erak valley, chiefly situated in a dirtywhite conglomerate. 

[Erak ravine: m407. Jpg]

_8th_. --Halted and encamped eight miles up the Erak ravine on a swardyspot: the road easy, ascent bad in some places, but generally good, particularly for the latter part of the march: the rocks in some placesrising in abrupt rugged cliffs, generally rounded, slaty. We passed onemass of snow about two miles from camp, botany good, especially about thesnow; so much so, that it employed me all day. 

Caragana appears at about 10, 000 feet, a Tamerioid of large stature inabundance, Asphodelus, not as I thought a Mesembryanthemum, but abeautiful and very distinct species; see Catalogue for other plants. 

Our camp is within one and a half mile of the head of the Erak ravine, where snow occurs in two large masses; patches of snow also occur on theridge or a little below it; these ridges rise about 1, 200 to 1, 500 feetabove us. 

Unsettled evening, snow during night on all the ridges about us withfrozen sleet in camp. Thermometer at 6 A. M. 31 degrees. 

Large round-tailed eagle seen. 

Barometer 20. 164, thermometer 61 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. Newthermometer; barometer 650, old ditto 555. 3. 

Swardy plants. Parnassia, Swertia, Gentiana, Carices, Compositacoronata, Primula, Labiata, Menthoides, Caprifoliacea! Pedicularis, Umbelliferae. 

Plants of hill sides Asphodelus, Leguminosae alter, a Nakhood Moschata, Nakhood Labaria violacea, Mulgedioid, Euphorbia, Astragalus prior, alter. , Pedicularis, Onosma versicolor, Boraginea, stamens exserted. 

_9th_. --Proceeded to Kurzar, eight miles up a ravine to the left oreastward, about one and a half mile, then the steep ascent of the pass;thence the descent was as steep for 800 feet, then gradually down aswardy ravine until we came to the Kurzar ravine, which we followed tillwe reached the Choky. The road good; the ascent for 1, 000 feet is verysteep, the soil good, hills rounded, here and there slate rocksoutcropping. No change in vegetation. Passed a mass of snow: abundanceof snow on the summit where the mercury in the Bar. Stood at 19. 200;thermometer 58 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. New thermometer; Bar. 648. 5, old 539. 1, this being the highest spot we have visited. 

The vegetation of the summit presents no change from that of the rocksand hill sides 1, 500 feet below. There is a good deal of vegetation, Carduaceae, Statices, Astragali, a few tufted grasses forming the greatbulk, _Nakhood_ rare on the Kurzar side, 500 feet down, Statice becomesmost abundant, it is curious that on the sward of this side, neitherFumariaceae, nor Campanula were observed, Silene fimbriata one species. 

Caragana all about, even at Kurzar in ravines; Primula abundant, alsoSwertiae, generally all four plants are found at the Hajeeguk snowravine, and may be found between this and Erak, with some interestingnovelties. The distance to Bamean by both routes is within two miles ofthe same, the Kulloo-Rood being the shorter, but Hajeeguk the best road. That of the Kulloo river is followed to Zohawk. The weather unsettledwith showers of hail, clouds and sunshine: and heavy gusts of windoccasionally from Kohi-Baba, whose eastern extremity comes in sight afterentering the _Kurzar_ ravine. No view from the summit of the pass. 

[Pass between Erak and Kurzar: m408. Jpg]

Pedicularis, Campanula, Rubiaceae, Hippuris in flower, Phleum, Carduaceaof Yonutt, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, Pulmonaria, corolla tubiform. Euphorbialinearifolia, Composita dislocata, Cardamina lutea. 

_10th_. --Proceeded to the Helmund, thirteen and a half miles; the onlynovelty met with is a curious spring about half-way between Siah-Sunghalting place, and the Helmund consisting of limpid water emitting acopious ebullition of gas, not water, as the overflow is very small; acopious deposition of fine red earth is formed all round, which looksespecially bright in the springs themselves. The water possesses apeculiar acid taste. 

Quails abundant, especially about this place, the water of the Helmund isvery clear and affords excellent fishing with worms which are greedilytaken, and also with the fly, particularly towards evening, by a speciesof Gonorhynchus. 

_11th_. --Returned to the foot of the ascent of the Oonnoo, nine miles:nothing new having been met with, except that Kohi-Baba is seen to greatadvantage, from the higher ridges of this pass. On going to Bamean wesaw it for the first time from the ridges beyond Yonutt, badly from thefirst, but beautifully from the second ridge. The weather continues asusual threatening in the evening, clearing up after sunset: there is lesssnow on Kohi-Baba now than when we went. 

_12th_. --Proceeded to Sir-i-Chushme, eight miles, which was one continueddescent. Passed Killa Moostaffur Khan, built by a Kuzzilbash; it is theprettiest fort in the country. The common Carduacea disappears below9, 500 feet, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf commences here. 

Temperature of the spring at Sir-i-Chushme, 55 degrees (1. 5 P. M. ); thatat Kallo, on the other side of Hajeeguk, 45 degrees. 

All crops are cut, and the ground ploughed or preparing; in one place theyoung wheat is springing up; but the country generally looks very brown, and the hills small. Abundance of black teal. Plectranthus reappears atthe foot of Oonnoo, Verbascum rare, if any, on the Tartary side of theHindoo-koosh. Abundance of Loaches or Balitora in the streamlets arisingfrom the springs. 

13th. --Proceeded to Julraiz, eight and a half miles, having passed awaterfall, as well as abundance of people going to Jallalabad. Bar. 22. 760 at noon; Ther. 75 degrees. 

14th. --Proceeded to Koti-Ashruf, where there is excellent fishing withworms, the fish however did not take a fly, though they often appeared atthe surface: a large headed Silurus occurs, but I was unable to procure aspecimen. 

15th. --Proceeded to Arghundee, where we met the Bamean force. 

16th. --Proceeded to Topehee Bashee. 

17th. --Returned to Cabul. Eryngium is rare between the foot of Oonnooand Moostaffur Khan's fort. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

_From Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur_. 

_October 7th_. --Proceeded to Bhootkhak, nine and a half miles fromCabul, and seven from our camp: the direction lay easterly. A canal anda river were both crossed by bridges, the latter of stone, but muchneeding repairs: the country generally marshy: the marshes were crossedby a causeway of stones, rough and broken here and there. The road isone apparent continued slope to this, but the Barometer gives noindication of any difference of level. The march proving uninteresting, and the country an uniform brown and barren tract. 

_8th_. --Proceeded to Koord Cabul valley, the distance of which from theplace we left being eleven miles: first having rounded a spur extendingfrom the south boundary of Cabul valley, we then entered a narrow ravine, chiefly occupied by a small stream, which we crossed several times. Themountains being chiefly of limestone, then becoming slaty, veryprecipitous, rugged, and barren; on emerging from this very tediousravine, we entered on some sward with plenty of Tamarisk, and Salixvimenea. Koord Cabul valley is a frightfully barren, and very stonyplace; the chief vegetation of the valley, as also of the ravine, beingArtemisiae, in which there is abundance of Carduacea subspicata fromBaber's tomb. 

The road throughout is indifferent, but only so from the stones, thelargest of which would require removal, and there are not more than twoor three difficult rocks in the way, these however might be avoided bykeeping in the bed of the stream. There are two ruined stone wallsthrown across the ravine, the remains merely of the very few villages ofKoord Cabul. A high truncated mountain stands to the south, on whichsome patches of snow are visible. 

The mountain forming the east wall of the ravine is the subconical one, seen to such advantage from Arghundee, it is of limestone, quiteprecipitous, with a few large bushes of, I do not know what; none of thembeing within reach, --Ilex, and _Cupressus_. 

_9th_. --To Tazeen, the road for seven miles extends over somewhatundulated ground, generally good; but here and there stony, with agradual but almost imperceptible ascent, until the top of the pass isreached; from this, the view of Tazeen valley, and the summit of theSofaid-Koh is good. 

Thence the road extends over ascents and descents, three of which haveconsiderable, and stony inclinations, then it enters the ravine drainedby a small stream, and continues down it until we enter Tazeen valley. 

Two streams are passed in the ascent; the first, near the former haltingplace, flowing, where it is crossed, between slaty cliffs of no height;the second one, small, frozen, and not sufficient to supply a largeparty: there is however a spring a short way below the summit, althoughvery small. Temperature 58 degrees. The rocks forming the narrow ravineare very rough and slaty: limestones presenting the usual characters. 

This march has been said to present a very bad road, but it is not thecase, at least in comparison with many of the Affghan roads, distancetwelve and a half miles, the time it takes for camels to perform thejourney is six hours. The road, where not stony, is very well beaten. 

No change is observed in the features of the country until the oppositeside of Tazeen valley is seen, and the summit of the Sofaid-Koh: here, wonderful to relate! are abundance of firs extending down and along theridge to some distance, but not forming forests. 

Otherwise the vegetation consists of Senecionoides, _Astragali_, _Rosa_, Statice 2-3, Artemisiae, and Plectranthus, which last is very common inthe ravine leading to Tazeen valley, which is drained by a small stream. Here also Carduacea, and Onosmoid angustifolia occur!

In this ravine, Xanthoxylon of Kojhuk, a willow, Rosa, and a distinctIlex, occur, forming chiefly a shrubby vegetation. Ilex is also, so faras can be judged from appearance, the bushy thing seen on the limestonehill at our last halt, also Cupressus, a fine specimen of which I foundon limestone at about the height of the top of the pass, (22. 76 Bar. )Ther. 60 degrees, with a very small Spiraea. 

The large-winged vultures of Arghundee are common here. Some ruinedvillages were passed, a mosque stood near one of these, two and a halfmiles from last halt, little cultivation in the Tazeen valley, and in thecentre of this, two villages with orchards are visible. 

[Pass between Koord Cabul and Tazeen: m411. Jpg]

_9th_. --Tried to get to the firs, but failed. 

The lower hills, and indeed the range between the valley and the firrange, are conglomerate, easily disintegrated, then limestone, whichoften occurs quite vertical. Some of the hills are red, others brown, inone instance the coloured substance is interposed between strata oflimestone, which last have alone withstood the effects of climate, thisrange is as high as the Koord Cabul pass. 

Ilex very common, and much used for charcoal, the trunk being eight toten inches in diameter; almost all are pollarded. Pomacea common at 500feet above this, Plectranthus, Senecionoides. 

Artemisiae, Astragali, Statices, Rosa, bastard indigo, Cerasus. Theorchards are now assuming their autumnal tint, Salvia pinnata, Canusaliusque, _Ruwash_. Chough, ravens, nuthatch, and chakor here occur. Heavy snow is observed on the eastern portions of Hindoo-koosh, which arequite barren. The best way to the fir tract I find on enquiry will be tofollow the bed of the stream up to it. Fields are being now ploughed andsown. Thermopsides very common here in old cultivation: it affordsdecent fodder for camels. 

_10th_. --To Barikab, distance ten and a half miles; the road extendingdown the Tazeen ravine, over a tract with a considerable descent forabout nine miles; on passing a long dark looking rock and its spur, theroad then leaves the bed, and ascends over low undulations of easilydetachable conglomerate, and sand; then a short but rather steep ascentoccurs for 200 feet, passing over an easily friable sandstone, eitherexisting as grains slightly adherent, or caked; thence the descent passesover the preceding sort of conglomerate, to an abominably barren ravine, drained by a very small stream. 

The road only once leaves the bed of this ravine, but soon rejoins itbefore finally turning off. 

The mountains present the same features; where no outcrop of strataoccurs, they are rounded, brown, and very barren, with here and there anIlex; towards the end of the raviny part in one or two places, more woodthan usual occurs, forming scattered thickets. Fraxinus, the olderbranches of which have much smaller leaves, Thymelia of Chiltera, Cerasuscanus, and alius, Senecionoides, Compositae, Artemisiae, Polygonumfrutescens, which last is not uncommon throughout. Equisetoides becomescommon towards the black rock. 

Where the road turns off from the ravine, a _Khubar_ or tope occurs, shaded with two or three large Xanthoxyleae now in fruit, called_Khinjuk_. 

Snow visible from Barikab to the north, but generally in ravines. Thecountry continues abominably barren, we passed the entrance of theLutabund pass, near the black rock, but without seeing it: no difficultyoccurs on the road, except from the jolting of stones. There is howeverno forage to be had at the halt, and but little fodder. A sprinkling ofholly-looking bushes are seen extending over the lower ranges of Hindoo-koosh. 

_11th_. --Jugdulluck, ten and a half miles from our last encampment; onleaving Barikab we commenced ascending, winding over undulating groundfor a short distance, until we reached the main ascent, which is short, but moderately steep: thence we descended steeply for perhaps 500 feet, hitherto the road extended over sand hills, with quantities of stones. Onreaching the foot of the steep descent, we then descended gradually overa long stony inclined plane, then entered undulating ground, descendingfrom which the road took us over a small stream, which we followed up, soon entering a gorge, up which we continued till we reached Jugdulluck. This gorge is the finest and boldest we have seen, the rocks formingprecipitous cliffs 2, 400 feet high, which often hem in the road, andconfine it to a breadth of a few feet, sufficient merely for a gun topass. 

On emerging from this we reached the tope of Jugdulluck, now a grove ofmulberry trees, surrounded by the remains of a wall. 

The country, until we entered the gorge, presented the same features asbefore, being frightfully barren. Passed a spring of water at the footof the main descent where there is level ground sufficient for a smallparty, afterwards we passed a smaller spring containing less water, butsituated in much better ground than Barikab. 

The vegetation of undulated ground continues unchanged, very poor andstunted; in ravines below the main descent, Stipa is very common; inothers, a large Andropogon occurs near the mouth of the gorge along thebed of the river, also _Jhow_ in patches, and one patch of Donax. 

The vegetation of the gorge is more varied; two small trees occur, onethe _Khinjuk_, and it is the commonest, the other a Terebinthacea;Thymelaea of Chiltera is common, Ephedra, Ilex occurs but is less commonthan on hills. 

Along the water to which it gives exit, and which is abundant, the usualCyperaceae, Junceae, Gnaphalium, Potentilla, and Epilobium occur as atCabul; the place is chiefly remarkable for two or three Saccharoidgrasses, Stipa common, Polypogon, Donax, Dracocephala of Quettah and theBolan pass, Spiraea, Typha, young Tamarisks. 

Chakor, large vulture, ravens; a woodcock rose from a dripping rock, covered with a tropical Andropogon in dense patches. Adiantum, Rubus, Erythrea, Labiatae two, common; Salix. 

The gorge appears to be a distinct formation of sandstone, slate, andlimestone: on the way to it, we continued over the sand and conglomeratehill, which again recur at Jugdulluck, with plenty of Holly. 

The Sofaid-Koh is visible from the main ridge: it is a ridge runningperhaps SW. To NE. , tolerably covered with snow, as barren as any others:a few fir trees are found in the direction of Tazeen: are these confinedto the sandstone formation? little grass, a few rice fields, bad forage. 

[Pass and gorge, Barikab to Jugdulluck: m414. Jpg]

_12th_. --Halted at Jugdulluck. Small partridges are common: observed acurious Certhioid creeper, whose flight is like that of the Hoopoe; it isscandent over rocks. 

_13th_. --To Soorkhab, twelve and a half miles over a similar country:region of Hollys continues; we first passed up a ravine, then overundulating ground, until the summit of the pass is reached. From this afine view of Sofaid-Koh is obtained, the lower ranges in some placesbeing black with firs; thence a continued descent, varied here and thereby small ascents over undulating ground, we at length came to a ravinefilled with bulrushes: we followed this, leaving it near the haltingplace, and winding over rocky ground and a bad road, we descended to thebed of the river. The road good, though stony here and there, butnowhere so, to such an extent, as the previous marches. 

Hills precisely similar to those already passed, either sandy, easilyfriable, or conglomerate, held together by sandy cement. Vegetationcontinues the same; _Baloot_, or oak, is said to be abundant though I didnot see it; Daphne, and Xanthoxylon, compose the chief shrubbyvegetation; Saccharum here and there. Small partridge very common. Thegreatest ascent is 5, 600 feet. No grass for forage; several very smallstreamlets were passed en route, so that a small party might haltanywhere. 

[Ascent and descent Jugdulluck to Soorkhab: m415. Jpg]

The beautiful Himalaya looking range Sofaid-Koh, runs east and west; itis very high, in the back ranges with very heavy snow on both ridges, andpeaks. The view from the pass shows a rapid fall in the country to theeastward, which still continues hilly, and very very bare. Large coarsegrapes are had here, also pomegranates: some _seedless_ rice cultivationoccurs since we descended to Jugdulluck. 

_14th_. --We proceeded nine and a quarter miles, throughout until reachinga grove near Gundamuck: the road lay over undulating ground, is moresandy than stony, and in two or three places it is raviny, and requiresto be made. Then the road emerges into a fine sort of valley, dippingdown to a small stream with many sedges. In the bed of the stream, willows occur, and mulberries about it: we then ascended and halted justbeyond the ascent. Water and _dhoob_ grass are both plentiful, as wellas supplies of grain, pomegranates, and grapes, as yesterday; _Bajree_. 

A fine view is obtained of Sofaid-Koh, which forms the southern boundaryof the valley; many villages, with cultivation in a very sandy soil. Small partridge very abundant. A fox observed. The ravines whereverthere is water, crowded with Typha, and Saccharum; oaks are seen inabundance on the mountain to the south; left the Soorkhab river afterfording it near yesterday's camp; the bridge is quite useless for cattle, as the ground is rocky and broken on this side, no pains having beentaken to carry the work to the road; cypresses, planes and mulberry treesin the gardens: Cannabis, also one patch of cotton cultivation waspassed. 

No descent, but rather small ascent on the whole, say 200 feet, theascent from the principal nullah crossed being equal, though much shorterthan the descent to it. 

[Soorkhab to Gundamuck: m416. Jpg]

_15th_. --We halted: many rivulets descend near us from the Sofaid-Koh;and the water in these is beautifully clear; many villages and mills withseveral beautiful spots occur, well shaded with trees, poplars, mulberries, and figs. The objects of cultivation are millet, Indian-corn, rice, and wheat; this last just sprung up: many _bedanah_pomegranates, but none I think of superior quality. 

All the low hills here, and indeed between us and the boundary ranges ofthe valley, are of sandstone, generally very slightly held together, hereand there more firm, and distinctly stratified towards the upper surface. The surface consists of conglomerate, formed of boulders imbedded in thesame kind of sandstone as that below; often very friable, occasionally itis as hard as flint. In the sandstone below, a few stones occur here andthere; but I saw no fossils. The upper surface of these hills isremarkably stony, all the stones being more or less rounded. 

Several new plants were found in these ravines, a Lythrum, a veryaromatic species of Compositae, Samolus in some of the swamps with Typha, which swarms in every ravine and ravinelet, Rubus, Clematis, Bergia, Ammannia, Lythraria, Chara, Xanthium. 

The plants of tropical forms are, Celosia of Digera! Polanisia, Andropogons, two or three. 

The tropical cultivation consists of cotton, the usual annual sort;Indian-corn, Pennisetum, and rice. 

The fish are, four kinds of Cyprinidae, including one Oreinus, and oneloach. 

_16th_. --Proceeded to Futtehabad, eleven and a half miles. The roadleaves the valley after crossing a stream with a ruined bridge, like thatat Soorkhab, but of two arches, and ascending a little way, then windingalong over undulating very stony ground; this continues until we descendsteeply and along the Neemla valley, a mere ravine, historicallyinteresting, as the field on which Shah Soojah lost his kingdom in 1809, and for a fine tope of trees: then crossing a streamlet, we ascend alittle way over sandstone, then another stream, which we follow for 500yards, and ascending a little, we proceed thence to camp, along a slightslope of very stony, generally _very level_ ground, where we halted ona rivulet with a wide grassy bed, Lythrum growing around. 

[Gundamuck to Futtehabad: m417. Jpg]

No change appears in the vegetation: the surface very barren in stonyparts, chiefly Artemisia, Saccharum, Andropogon albus, in ravines, Capparis common, also AErua and Lycionoides. 

The northern boundary of the valley is comparatively low, and from Sofaid-Koh to this is an uniform slope, broken by ravines; here and there bysmall hills; ravines occasionally dilating into small valleys, the onlyparts in which cultivation is to be seen. This is so far different fromthe usual formation where the valleys occupy the level tract between theslopes from either boundary range. Neemla is a very confined space forany thing like the battle said to have taken place here, the risinggrounds inclosing the small space being too much broken for cavalry. 

The rocks consist of conglomerate at top, below sandstone, layers of bothalternating near the surface: a break occurs (nearly opposite) in thehills, this break is minutely undulated. {417} Rock pigeons were seen onthe march by Thomson, and small partridges. I find that though to oursenses there was comparatively but little descent, that the barometer andthermometer indicate one of 1, 500 feet. The Neemla river must be theboundary between the hot and cold countries alluded to by Burnes. 

In spite of this descent, and our small altitude, about 3, 000 feet, butlittle change if any occurs in the vegetation, and none in the generalfeatures of the country; the Apocynea of Dadur and Bolai (Nerioides) hasre-appeared. 

At this season (October), throughout the way we came from Cabul, there isa curious white efflorescence covering the Shootur Kari, I do not knowwhat it is, but it is not Conferva. A good deal of forest is seen onsome of the ranges to the north of this, bearing from camp about NNE. , certainly not firs, perhaps oaks. 

_19th_. --Yesterday we went to the Soorkhab, which runs east and westalong the northern boundary of the valley; half the distance down the bedof this stream the ground is strewed with boulders, thence to the hills, and excepting the bed of the Soorkhab, is one sheet of cultivation, consisting of large quantities of cotton and sugar-cane, this latter ofsmall size, and not very juicy, castor-oil plant, Corchorus (_Pat_), _Sun_, Tel. , radish, and among the other plants cultivated, the Mudar iscommon: Nerioides of Dadur; Epilobium sp. Is the chief Boreal form. Thisis one of the richest districts I have seen. 

Trees--Bukkhien, {418} _Furas_, Ficus, Cupressus, with much ricecultivation. 

The vines are trained on mulberries, as Burnes says, or the Lilyoak. Pomegranates are also to be mentioned among the fruits of this place. 

The Soorkhab river is not seen after leaving the place of the same name;after it crosses the road, it runs due north through the mountains, in anarrow, almost inaccessible bed; its waters are of a reddish colour. 

The villages here are larger, and not so fortified as those about Cabul. Balabagh stands on a high bank of conglomerate, overhanging the Soorkhab, and is in danger of being cut away by the river. The peasantry arecivil, and unarmed. Ravens, quails, _minas_, sparrows, and a beautifulswallow were seen about the Soorkhab river; the latter, with metallicblue on the back of the head, crown of head tawny, tail short, twoexterior feathers elongated into beautiful almost setaceous bodies, exceeding the length of the bird. This swallow, or one with a similartail, was seen by Sanders on the Helmund, at Girishk. 

_20th_. --We proceeded to Sultanpore, eight and a half miles, passedFuttehabad, thence a gradual descent over a very stony slope to thehalting place, where the valley becomes narrow, and water plentiful in asmall stream. Willows, mulberries, ashes. Two large pollards atFuttehabad. 

The vegetation consists of Gramineae in patches, AErua Nerioides, andMudar. 

Sultanpore, is a village of some size, situated about a mile north fromthe road, and contains many Hindoos. All villages here crowded withhighish two or three-storied houses, something like Shikarpore: they aresurrounded with gardens and mud walls, apricots, mulberries, greengages, pomegranates in profusion; the cultivation very rich as yesterday, andthere is an air of repose about the villages unusual in this country. Tobacco. The rice-pounder or _dekhee_ I observe is here lifted bytreading on it with the foot, as in Hindoostan. The country hereabout, has the advantage of being well watered. _Isain_, Dolichos sp. Occurs. 

Trees as before: the plane flourishes, fine ones were seen growing arounda Hindoo Zearut, where there is a double spring of water with a copiousebullition of gas. The temperature of this is said to be hot in winter. Salsola common, _Joussa_, a curious Ericoid plant was observed, Typhaangustifolia, latifolia ceased since we left Gundamuck; Isachne, Pulicaria, Epilobium, Sagittaria, Cyperaceae, Marsilea! Polygonum, Ranunculus sceleratus, Lythrum, Lemna, Alisma, Menthoid, a Cuscuta commonon cotton plants, as at Futtehabad, several tropical grasses, Aristida, Poa, and Andropogon appear. 

Descent though almost unappreciable, yet amounts to 1, 000 feet. Bulbuland Parus common, as well as doves and ravens; quails are scarce. 

_21st_. --To Jallalabad, eight and a half miles, the road keeping alongthe southern edge of the valley, occasionally extending over smallundulations sometimes stony, more often sandy. 

Typha latifolia occurs in profusion along parts of Futtehabad nullah, general features the same otherwise, AErua and Nerioid are common onstony parts, and fewer coarse grasses. 

Cypresses in gardens, also _khujoors_. Starlings. 

The entrance to Jallalabad, or rather to its suburbs, presents the usualdesolate, disorderly appearance, of such places in this country; theruined walls to the city; the sandy barren soil, and the odious lookinglow hills between it and the Sofaid-Koh, present as sad and melancholy apicture as could well be met with. The same desolate, disorderly, dirtyappearance is to be met with in most Asiatic capitals, particularly thosethat have been subjected to independent misrule: while the more distantsurrounding villages look cheerful, and as clean as can be expected: theappearances immediately around the chief towns are always bad. To whatis this owing? is it to their being more completely under the thumb of arapacious governor? to the insecurity of property, or to defect in thelaws? or to all these causes together?

At Cabul it was just the same, particularly on the Peshawur side, wherestagnant pools, half destroyed mosques, and mutilated trees present atotal contrast to the smiling valley of Kilah-i-Kajee. 

At Shikarpore the same. 

The most common fruit tree in the gardens here is a sweet lime: grapesare brought in from the villages of Sofaid-Koh, they are the same sort asthose at Gundamuck: Narcissus, Rosa, Cerasi sp. , Mirabilis, stock, Cupressus, mulberry also in gardens, _Bheir_ of waste places, Salsola, Artemisiae, two or three: Kochia villosa, Peganum, AErua, Croton ofCandahar, Ricinus, _Joussa_ of wet places, Lippia, Typha latifolia, angustif. , Azolla, Riccia, Cyperaceae, several Lythrarieae, Potamogeton, three species. The fish here will not take a fly, and the bottoms aretoo foul and stony for worm-fishing, the largest sort of fish is somewhatlike a Barbel. Jackdaws and Corvus, alter atratus, dorso ventre griseo:very few quails. _Furas_ common. 

_27th_. --To Ali-Baghan, distance six and a half miles, road winding, generally good: after it crossed the dry bed of the nullah, it thenbecomes rather undulated extending over raviny ground; it then crossesthe broad bed of the stream, in which there are swarms of bulrushes, thenthe same sort of sandy ground leads to camp, which is near the villageAli-Baghan. 

The river here is much increased, much more deep; banks alluvial, steep;soil deep. Chenopodium sp. , very common, but too much eaten up to berecognized, also Salsolae sp. 

Nothing new observed. We passed the break above-mentioned in thenorthern hills, whence issues the Coomur Nuddee. Serratuloides verycommon in sandy undulations. Porcupines and foxes. Beds of grass inislands of the river Barikab. 

_28th_. --We proceeded to Bankok, twelve and a half miles from theencamping ground, having turned nearly due south, in order to avoid theslope, which is seen in this direction from Jallalabad; then a valley, with low hills on either side, is passed; then the road ascends overundulating ground, until 500 feet is gained; then a long and gradualdescent is traversed over a very stony plateau. 

No water nor cultivation on the road, nothing can exceed its barrenness. AErua Nerioides, Lycioides, Andropogon albus, are the principal plants onthe plateau; Kochia common, and a few straggling _Bheirs_, small rockpigeons. Geology unchanged, sandstone and conglomerate, with enormousboulders. 

We passed the gorge through which the Cabul river runs. The road, bythis is said to be only six miles, but is only passable by pedestriansand horsemen. 

One village of some size is situated in the south towards Sofaid-Koh;from the plateau as well as from our camp, a curious and characteristicscene is visible to the north, showing a barren lofty range with peculiarundulations at the base, as well as the isolated hills jutting up aboveits surface: the trees and villages being confined to the course of theriver which may be thus traced by its fertility. In this last directionthere is a good deal of _Abadi_, but nothing comparable to that aboutJallalabad. 

At camp Serratuloid australasicus, very common, as indeed it wasyesterday; _foliis verticalibus_ in consequence of both surfaces beingstomatose, the base of the leaf is so twisted as to present each surfaceequally to the light. It is curious that all such leaves have the veinsprominent on both surfaces, showing a relation between the veins and thestomata, the more stomata the larger veins. 

_29th_. --To Bassoollah, eight and a half miles, the road for guns is goodthroughout; better perhaps than any yet met with, from the soil beingsandy. We came by a straighter road, and a very bad one, instead ofdiverging to the south, and rounding a range of hills, we entered these, and passing through a gorge coming upon marshy ground, running for somedistance along the Cabul river, to which we were here quite close. Passedseveral villages about the mouth of the gorge, which is a short one. 

The general features of the country continue the same; we crossed anullah near the camp, and another near the gorge, six miles from camp, towards this last, grass covers the plains, though of a coarse kind; AEruaNerioides most common on the barren ground. 

We observed on the way a new Pterocles, and passed an old tope situatedon a low ridge. 

The gorge is rather pretty; the Cabul river runs close, along the foot ofa range, forming the northern boundary of the place, where Bassoollah issituated, this is also a pretty place, with much good grassy ground forencamping on. 

The country under Sofaid-Koh presents a long strip of cultivation, withmany villages: hills barrener than ever, chiefly limestone. Very littlesnow here observed as on the eastern face of the high peaks of Sofaid-Koh, compared with the quantity visible on the face towards Jallalabad. 

About half-past two, a slight shock of an earthquake was felt, presentinga rumbling noise, very audible, proceeding from east to west. 

Between the village and the river, an extensive strip of level landoccurs, with sandy soil well adapted to rice, of which quantities aregrown. The crops are now ready for the sickle, and some partly cut: muchof this land is occupied by a marsh choked with bulrushes of both sorts, Typha latifolia being the most common; Cyperaceae abound, Marsilea inprofusion, Azolla, Mentha, Epilobii sp. As before, Lemna, Valisneria_verticillata_? Sium. , Sagittaria, Pulicaria, Chara, Lippia, Monniera, _Jhow_. 

The river runs close under the hills, which are very barren, its courseis rapid, cataracts also are of frequent occurrence transmitting a greatbody of water; no fish are visible. Some cotton and maize and _Toot_cultivation. _Furas_ the only trees. 

The mountains slope off from Sofaid-Koh in distinct groups, and are seento advantage, broken in some places into undulations: about the centre ofthe slope an irregular strip of village forts and cultivation isextended. The course of the Cabul river in many places is curious;flowing between singularly round ranges. Snipe common; quail rare. Erythraea common on moist sward. 

_30th_. --Proceeded to Lalpore, the country undulating, the road skirtingthe stony portions of the plain is bad to Hizarnow, three miles fromthence it is very stony, thence continuing on the skirts of the hills, which are principally slate, and passing through a small ravine, it thenextends over sandy or stony ground, until the Chota Khyber is reached:this is a narrow, but short, and not very steep pass; slate rocks composethe upper parts, and are entirely disintegrated, thence they descend atonce into the plain opposite Lalpore; the distance of the march is elevenmiles, the road generally decent. 

Much rice cultivation occurs, and much land, it must be confessed, alsooccupied by marshy ground, Typha, etc. The same plants continue; Butomustrigonifolius not uncommon. 

On the slate rocks of Buttencote Kochia recurs, Heliotropium luteum, Nerioides, and Lycioides of Shikarpore are found. 

Near Hizarnow, Serissa, Acaciae sp. , which is the black wood of Madras;Sissoo, and _Bheirs_. Hizarnow is a large place, curiously occupyingreceding slopes of the base of a low range of hills, but it must bedreadfully hot. We passed several _Kaburistans_ with pollarded, stunted, excavated _Furas_ trees. One mile before Hizarnow, a curious hill ofslate occurred, covered with boulders. 

The road is very winding in consequence of its following the bases of thehills forming the southern boundary of the valley. The Cabul river isvisible almost throughout the whole march. 

All houses in the villages are now roofed in this part of the countrywith straw. Starlings observed in swarms. 

_31st_. --Halted at Lalpore, this is a very busy large place: the housesare one-storied, and flat-roofed. The only peculiarity being occasionalsquare towers. The river is here quite open for commerce downwards, andis well adapted to small canoes: the stream is rapid and crossed by aferry. 

On rocks under which the river flows near this, a species of Fissidensoccurs, where the rocky surface has passed into sand. Glycyrrhiza, Rubus, Artemisia, Asparagus, Pommereulla, Andropogon albus, Arundo, Cyrthandracea, an Hyoscyamus of the Bolan Pass, Beebee Nanee, Heliotropium flavum. 

It would be curious to enquire why the powers of variation change socompletely in the different families? Thus for instance in Orchideae, nocharacter can be taken from the vegetation with some limitations, andnone from the fruit or seeds; two products in most orders very fruitfulin discriminating marks. This leads one to the idea that inmonocotyledonous plants, the fruit is very generally of limited powers ofvariation; witness Orchideae, Gramineae, Smilacineae, etc. This ideadeserves to be followed out as much as possible. The river at the ferryis 100 yards wide, and twelve feet in the deepest part, the current fivemiles an hour, but confined to one and a half towards its centre. 

_November 1st_. --Marched ten miles: the road from the camp extended upan acclivity, the ground becoming more broken than usual to the mouth ofthe ghat, which is four miles distant; thence up to the ghat whichresembles much the Bolan Pass, it extends up an inclined plane over ashingly road. The ghat is rather wide throughout, and all the featuresare the same as the Bolan Pass, slate rocks most common. We passed onthe way a large and a deep but dry well, ascribed to the _kafirs_; andnear it the ruins of a fort built half-way up a small mountain, the topof which is level with the ghat. 

Vegetation to the ghat unchanged. In the ghat Capparis as before, Lycioides, Chamaerops, Andropog. Albus, Schaenanthus, _Bheir_, Nerioides, Pommereullioid, Andropogonea, appear at once, AErua, Asparagus. 

At 300 feet up, Mimosae sp. , foliis tomentosis, occurring here and there. Heliotropium flavum, Plectranthus lavandulosus, Scrophulariae sp. 

At 500 feet, Dodonaea: this is very common, and being very green, givesthe ghat a pretty appearance. 

At 600 feet, a curious pomaceous looking Rhamnaceous plant is found. 

The most common plants are Nerioides, Andropogon albus, _Bheir_, Chamaerops, Dodonaea. 

The bed of the ghat is formed of debris from the boundary hills, this bedis very thick, and the particles have the appearance of being carried totheir present situation by water. 

Our halting place is a confined irregular piece of ground, waterabundant, but no grass, except coarse Andropogon; no fodder, except_Bheir_ and Mimosa. 

I ascended in the evening the ridge to the south, and which is 1, 200 feetabove the road, to the ruins that run along the summit. The ridge, likeall others in this neighbourhood, is rugged and much distorted, the topis limestone, much varied and weathered; then slate masses of greenstoneoccur towards the base. 

The vegetation is chiefly at the summit. Schaenanthus, Periploca, Dodonaea, an arbuscula nova, Euonymus, Chenopodiaceae. Below this, (butthe elevation is scarcely sufficient to form any difference, ) and alongthe water, Euonymus, Adhatoda, Buddlaea cana or Syringia, Rhamnacea, Periplocea, Linaria, Labiatae, 2-3, Pistacea, Roylea, Acanthoides, _Urticea_! habitu, U. Penduliflorae, Vitex, Convolvulus spinosus ofBolan, Sempervivum, Stapelioides used as a vegetable, and for fever byHindoos, Artemisiae, Solanum sp. 

Along water, Adiantum, Mentha, Epilobium, Verbena officinalis, Solanumnigrum, Jacquinifol. Pinnatif. Spinosus about cultivation. 

On slaty rocks which form the bed of the ravine or ghat, Dodonaea, Hyoscyamus, and Cyrthandracea are found. 

The building consists of a wall near the edge of a ridge, whichterminates some twenty feet from the steep precipice of 300 to 500 feet:it is 200 to 300 yards in length, and is terminated at either end by twotowers, both of which are ruinous, it is built of slabs and rough blocksof limestone, between which are layers of slate, much like the Bactrianpillar, and very superior to modern buildings: what its use was, it wouldbe difficult to conjecture as it is out of musket shot of the ghat, whichit only commands by being above it. There is no water on the top, nor isthere any well-marked path up to it: curious mortar-like excavations wereobserved in a mass of limestone just below, probably for pounding rice. Up the ravine are remains of terraces formerly used for cultivation, butnow mostly disused. At 700 to 800 feet above the ghat the ravine aboundswith the Ficus of Gundamuck; this and the Adhatoda or _Rooss_ are perhapscultivated: the ravine is pretty well entangled with Ficus and brushwood. It consists of metamorphosed rocks and excavated limestone; some mossesoccur, and Adiantum abounding. 

From the ridge, a rather extensive view to the south is obtained, extending to the Khyber fort, which is of the ordinary square form, andjust below it, a tower and house. To the east, and all around a gooddeal of cultivation occurs; also several high ridges, say 7, 000 feet; oneterminating 4, 000 feet above us, presents a very rugged outline with theappearance of rather large trees. The road up to the ghat is visible, aswell as the _Choky_ and a fort, with a small sheet of cultivation to theeastward. Beyond this a ravine, then two other ridges, of which thenearer one is high. The Cabul river passes to the NNW. , and Lalpoor liesto the north. One peak and a small piece of ridge of Hindoo-koosh, whitewith snow, is seen very distinctly though distant, it must therefore bevery lofty; far more so than any part we have seen to the westward. 

[Khyber Pass: p425. Jpg]

_Description of the annexed map of the Khyber Pass_. 

A. Kumdhukta. By this is Abkhanah route. 

B. Little Khyber ghat, on Peshawur side. 

C. Khyber ghat, entrance on the Jallalabad side. 

D. Kurraha route. 

E. Direction of Sofaid-Koh in the distance. 

F. Flagstaff in the middle of the Pass. 

The ground between the dotted lines and river, on the south, is, or hasbeen cultivated. The ground near the river on the north side is coveredhere and there with brown grass. About the Flagstaff, sand and shortdried up grass occur. 

The general character of the hills in every direction except the snowyrange, is bluffly rounded, very bare, and brown, with here and there ashrub. 

That which Burnes calls Noorgil, is the range of Kareaz, and is distinctfrom Koonur. Kashgur lies beyond the snowy range. 

The inhabitants of the mountains, like those of Lalpoor, wear sandalsmade of the fibres of Chamaerops, which is common: one plant of Ephedraused _for snuff_?

_3rd_. --Proceeded to one mile beyond Ali-Musjid. The ascent commencesimmediately where the _Choky_ is seen from the camp, by a very good roadcut out of slate rock; the rocks are steep on both sides, and very zig-zag; a short partial descent in one place occurs to a small pool ofwater. From the _Choky_, a descent takes place by a similar road forperhaps two miles, until the ravine which we left at camp is turned; thisis thence followed, occasionally leaving it where the road is bad andruns through low rugged hills. The road then after passing some of theold ruins opens out into a space with cultivation. Close to this is thehighest spot of the pass, surrounded by low hills, none higher than 500feet. Cultivation occurs especially at Lal-Ghurry Beg, a space of somesize, containing several villages, of the usual Khyberry form, namely, surrounded by low, quadrangular walls, with a thin square tower and verybroadly projecting eaves. A short distance from its summit, just afterpassing the villages, and before entering the ravine which leads us toour present camp is a Khyberry tower, built on a fine Bactrian tope, which is nearly half ruined; on the top of this a dome of goodproportions is built on a double-terraced foundation. 

This gives a rude idea of what the tope was originally, now half the domehas fallen down. 

[A Khyberry tower: m426. Jpg]

The entrance to the ravine gradually becomes narrower, the bed is stony, very winding, and narrow. Bold precipices of limestone cliffs ascend oneither side of Sir-i-Chushme; then a little below, very copious springsissue from limestone. The temperature of the principal spring is 75degrees; it contains abundance of fish--a loach and cyprinoid. Passedsome ruined fortifications on the right, leading down to water, evidently_kafir_ works; then we enter a narrow but short gorge, occupied by thestream; a few more turns and you come on Ali-Musjid. No change occurs inthe vegetation, bare rocks at the summit of which the Bar. Stood at26. 72. Andropogons and Artemisiae are the chief plants. 

In the gorge downwards, Acacia occurs in abundance, with Adhatoda, andotherwise the shrubs of Lundyakhana occur in abundance, and Adiantumabout the spring. 

After passing the fort, the rocks open out into a ravine, with lowundulated hills on every side, covered with the usual vegetation;Astragalus one species. 

At Lal-Ghurry Beg, one Khinjuck tree, Elaeagnus, occurred; and grass invery small stacks, well pressed and covered with a thatch of bushes and alayer of dirt. 

There is excellent fishing in the stream. Loaches, Perilamps, andespecially an Oreinus? swarming at Sir-i-Chushme, and taking worms verygreedily. 

No forests whatever visible in this direction; the arborescent vegetationbeing confined to scattered and small trees. 

_5th_. --We halted near Jumrood, after a march of ten miles and onefurlong. This place is situated at the mouth of the pass, within sightof the Seikh camp at Jumrood. Marched down to the ghat, which isgenerally speaking narrow and very strong, opening out here and there, into easier parts extending down the stream all the way; this streamloses itself suddenly, but after a little distance it is replaced byanother from the right, where ravines enter: here the pass is welladapted for pillage, elsewhere the sides are so steep, that robbers couldnot dispose of their plunder. At the mouth, the pass opens out into agood breadth, with an even, small, shingly bottom. At Kuddun the Seikhtroops were drawn up to compliment the C. In C. , one regiment met usshortly before to protect the baggage. Maize cultivated. At the mouth, the Khyber is more difficult than any other pass, except the Bolan:perhaps it is much narrower than that, except just above Sir-i-Bolan. 

No change in vegetation, one or two new plants occurred, viz. A Labiata, and a treelet, foliis linearibus oppositis, Jasminacea aspectu, Baloot, Vitex common, Salix, and shrubs as before, Veronica, etc. 

The Khyber mountains viewed from the mouth of the pass are brown, anddotted with peculiar looking trees. 

_6th_. --Proceeded six and a half miles to near the ruins of an old tope;first, down the nullah, then by the fort of Futtygurh, a Hindoostanee mudfort with high parapets, two lines of works, and a _pucka_ citadel withembrasures for guns on a commanding mound: thence we passed over a gentleslope with a good many scattered _Bheirs_, _Kureels_, AErua, Mudar, etc. To camp, where the ground is very rough and stony, abundant waterobtained from a cut with sheets of maize cultivation. Fossil shells, Pterocles, found in arenaceous limestone (Durand). 

_7th_. --To Peshawur, eight and a half miles, over a sandy plain; roadbad, intersected with cuts and ravines; three canals had to be crossed bysmall bridges which occasioned a good deal of delay to the camels. Passedthe Seikh lines, between the fort and north face of town, and encamped oneast face opposite the Governor's house: three gibbets were passed, withtwelve persons hanging from them, some of old date. 

In the evening we had a gay party at M. Avitabili's, who is a finelooking man, with an intelligent Italian countenance. 

In a room gaudily decorated and painted, was the following veryappropriate motto--

 Donec eris felix multos numerabis amicos. Tempora si fuerunt nubila, solus eris. 

If this was true in Rome, and is true in Europe, to what extent does itstruth not reach in this country. In the evening we were entertained withdancing and fireworks; excellent dinner and admirable bread. 

_14th_. --To-day the atmosphere is hazy, but the snowy range is not toppedwith clouds. It is curious enough that the part which is most exposed toour view, and which bears about north-east, is generally cloudedthroughout the hotter parts of the day, while apparently equally highpeaks in other directions remain clear. 

It is curious that in Khorassan remarkably few climbing plants occur, andof these, the chief form is Cuscuta. 

Botany here at this season is a non-entity, in the marsh close to thefort, there occur some few plants, the chief European forms beingVeronica. Ranunculus sceleratus is now coming into flower, Typhaangustifolia abounds, with Arundo, also Sparganium, Sium, Butomustrigonifolius common; otherwise Cyperaceae, _Epilobium out of__season_! Ranunculus aquaticus is most abundant; two species of Chara, orrather 1 Chara, and 1 Nitella, the last a beautiful species, Marsilea inprofusion, Azolla common, Lemna two or three species, one _new_, afloating Marchantiacia, Nelumbium occurs, but only as a cultivated plant. 

Of two Boreal, or European forms found in sub-tropical countries, thatform is the most northern which flowers, etc. In the coldest season, hence Veronica and Ranunculus are more northern than _Epilobium_ in thisparticular district. The most elevational plant at Cabul isCardaminoidea, floribus luteis, this flowers at high altitudes in Augustand September, and at Cabul shows no symptom of flowering even inOctober; it is there a winter plant? The same is true of Hippuris, whichto flower at Cabul requires a greater degree of cold than is obtainableduring the summer months. 

What I have said of Epilobium above, is true of Typha and Arundo, bothnow passed flowering, and both found in India, to a considerable extent. 

Royle's idea of the comparatively greater extent of distribution of waterplants is not I think correct, in the sense he seems to entertain it; tobe so, the species should be the same, which they are certainly not. Itis only with pre-eminently aquatic forms that the annual temperature canbe more equalised than obtains with strictly terrestrial plants. Thehumidity which may appear connected with the rapid evaporation in thesecountries, and which obtains? in the vicinity of all bodies of water, mayaccount for the appearance here of Arundo, etc. All genuine aquatictypes have leaves involute in vernation?

The least valuable of all northern forms, are those associated withcultivation, especially if they be annuals, because in the first placethey may be acclimated species, a circumstance of great importance; andin the second, because if annual, they are confined to the cold season. All such forms have probably migrated into these countries, they havecome from the westward: this shows us why at almost equal elevations theyare most common, the nearer we approach to the elevated regions towardsthe west, because it is self-evident that the nearer we approach theregions whence they have migrated, the more abundant and diversified willthe migrating plants be, only particular species having the power ofextending the range of migration. 

When all the Indian plants hitherto met with, have been tabulated; whenall their respective heights at which they have been found have beendetermined; when their more strictly geographical sites have been fixed;when we have some data as to the quantity of humidity pervading theirlocalities; then, and not till then, shall we be able to legislate forthe geography of Indian botany. 

The Botanist who travels without the means of determining these points, destroys half the value of his collections. 

_December 16th_. --Yesterday was very raw and cloudy, to-day clear asusual, towards 1 P. M. A strong north-east wind occurred for a short timeas usual, because once or twice before, it occurred after threateningweather. 

_Rationale_. --It blows from the nearest snow to supply the rarefied airin the valley heated by the sun, even now tolerably powerful; it blowsfor some days so long as a vacuum is formed, and discontinues when cloudsagain appear; hardly so, as it before only blew for three or four days, although several more elapsed before clouds re-appeared: it may howeverbe dependent on each fresh fall of snow in the hills. 

_26th_. --Cloudy morning, forenoon fine, clear and calm. 

Mosses are the analogues of Zoophytes; these analogies are to be lookedfor in the most striking and most constant parts of the organization ofthe divisions of nature. 

Marchantiaceae are the representatives of radiate animals, another reasonwhy Jungermanniaceae are to be separated from them. 

Hence, Radiata, = Marchantiaceae. " Zoophyta, = Musci. 

I am quite convinced that the true subordinate groups of Acotyledones arefar from being discovered. 

Are the sheaths found on certain radicles strictly confined tomonocotyledonous plants. There is this certain about them, that theydepend on the presence of vascular tissue, from which the radicles or thedivisions of each root originate: see young Hyacinth roots, grown inwater. 

Although the sheaths cannot exist without a positive cuticle, theirexistence does not depend so much on its presence as on the direction ofthe adhesive powers of its component parts: witness certain forms ofMarchantiaceae, and the vaginate forms, as Azolla, Lemna, etc. Also thesheath may not have adhesive powers at its apex to prevent the escape ofthe radical at that point: witness Hyacinth roots? We may imagine a casein which the primary radicle may be without a sheath, while its divisionsshall have them, this depending on the want of adhesion of the cuticleover the original one. 

The emerged and immersed leaves of plants are well worthy of examination, since Microphytum proves that stomata do not depend on the presence of acuticle as Brongniart supposes: their presence is united with, or alliedto an amount of density in the cellular tissue, sufficient to prevent thedue aeration of the inner cellules, without direct communication with theatmosphere. Vide Musci!! Hence the inner tubes of the leaves of thegenerality of aquatic plants, (exception Eriocaulon fluitans. )

What is the cause of the plurality of radicles in certain species ofLemna, and their blank in others? It will be necessary on this point toexamine well the sheaths of Azolla, and to look at the MerguiAEschynanthus. 

The formation of Affghanistan is very curious: it consists of a wideextent of country, variously elevated steppes being separated by ridgesusually very accessible, generally isolated. The mountainous part variesas to its formation, but there is no variety in the declivities andacclivities forming the lower elevations, which are composed ofconglomerate; nor is there much in the usually narrow strip at the lowestportion of each steppe or valley, which is very generally the onlycultivatable portion. 

In the Khyber ghat the ridges are either of limestone or slaty rocks, between which conglomerate occurs of various thicknesses; this beingdependent on the angle of the mountains forming the sides of the ghat: itis from this conglomerate in such places consisting usually of a loosetexture that the very excellent roads (for mountainous passes) arenaturally made by the draining streams, which are only periodical. Theconglomerate consists of water-worn stones of all sizes, even bouldersare not unfrequent, yet the wearing is such as occurs in courses nowfilling the beds of torrents. The conglomerate increases in density andadhesion towards Lalpoor, and in many places is exceedingly hard. 

Whatever the country may have been previously, one might explain itspresent appearance by supposing it to have consisted of a tolerably levelextent of conglomerate, with here and there a strip of soil in the lowestpart of each portion, and that the elevation of the mountain ridges wasof subsequent occurrence: this would account for the formation of thelower slopes, and the frequent isolation of small eminences of the samecharacter as the neighbouring mountains. It will account for theappearance of the conglomerate in every ravine until the top of theculminating point is reached. 

As the mountains were elevated, portions of conglomerate would bedetached, and these resting again on all suitable places, would accountfor the existence of conglomerate on certain parts which are flatter thanusual. 

Whirlwinds are common about Cabul, commencing as soon as the sun hasattained a certain degree of power. 

In all cases they assume the shape of a cone, the point of which being atangent on the earth's surface: the cone varies in shape, is generally ofa good diameter, occasionally much pulled out, some being 2, 300 feet inheight, the currents are most violent at the apex. 

They come and go in all directions, even after starting, not alwayspreserving the original direction. They are less common on days in whichwinds prevail from any given direction, and vary much in intensity from amere breeze, lightly laden with dust and with no tortuosity, to a violentcone of wind, capable of throwing down a _soldari_. 

Northerly winds are prevalent here from 1 or 2 P. M. Until 8 or 9 P. M. , occasionally they only commence in the evening, when they are obviouslydue to the rarefaction of the air of the valleys by the great heat of thesun, amounting now to 100 degrees at 3 P. M. , and the vacuum beingsupplied by gusts from the high mountains to the north and north-east. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

_From Peshawur to Pushut_. 

_January 8th_. --At Ichardeh. Between Busoollah and Lalpoor are threecurious low ridges, none above sixty feet high, and all of small extent;they are covered with fractured masses of rock of the same size as thosestrewn so liberally about the shingly slopes; but they are much cleaneror fresher looking, and appear to me less worn. Whence do they derivetheir singular situation? They occur in such numbers, that one would atfirst think they originated from a mass of ruins, but the ridges presentscarcely any surface for buildings to stand upon, certainly not to suchextent as would account for the abundance of these fragments. 

About Huzarnow and on both sides, low ridges of sand occur. In this sandgraves are usually dug, and in some places to an extent indicatingdreadful devastations from disease, each grave is headed by a stone, andabout every ramification of the irregular size of the burial ground, there is a building of the usual mud structure, designed for a mosque, but not domed as is customary in Mussulman cemeteries, but ornamentedwith flagstaffs bearing white bits of cloth. These low sand ridges areoften very much undulated; they consist of a very fine powder, and atHuzarnow are evidently of the same nature as the cultivated soil: theyare neither in attachment as it were to the neighbouring hills, nordistinct from them, but always have some communication with the shinglyslopes, to which they are evidently inferior. 

So that the base of Khorassan may be taken to be the tillable portions, over which occur, to a vast extent, the shingly very barren slopes, whichevery section shows to be nothing but a mass of debris, resting on themountain rocks. 

_9th_. --Ali-Baghan. To this the road is good, along the right bank ofthe river, wherever it does not wind along over the spurs forming aconsiderable part of the march. To the first point where this occurs, itextends over the same sort of plain as that about Ichardeh; keepingrather close to the bank of the river, it is good, also through thevalley of Gundikuss, and from near the _Choky_, to Ali-Baghan. 

The first rocky ridge is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and isnot very difficult; at the end near Gundikuss, is a curious ruin builtinto the stream, where the latter runs with violence on the rocky bank:it consists of a broadish pathway, with a wall on the river side, breasthigh; the masonry is good and solid, of the usual Bactrian materials, butwell cemented; it has mostly been ruined by the river, only one end beingperfect. Although the materials are _Bactrian_, the contour isMussulman, and I was told by some people that it was a Mussulmanerection: originally it perhaps extended all along this part, as slighttraces here and there are discernible; for what use the originalstructure was intended I know not, as there are no remains visible of afort. 

The inlet of Gundikuss is well cultivated, the village itself a largestraggling one, built close under a ridge. 

From this to the _Choky_ the path is rocky, and in many places very bad, consisting of a series of ascents and descents, and winding round spurs;in the worst place, the path almost overhangs the river 200 feet aboveits bed, and it is very hard and very rocky. The distance between ten oreleven miles, the road is impracticable for guns, etc. Nor could ourcamels with loads well get over it. 

_10th_. --To Camp at the Bussout river, nothing remarkable occurred;immense quantities of Serratuloides on the sandy raviny parts of theroad. Crossed the river on the usual _mussuck_ rafts, the animals fordedit, at the quiet head of a rapid, water breast deep: this river issmaller than that from Kooner. 

_11th_. --To Bussout, five miles. A village passed about one and quartermile up Kooner ghat, here a mile broad. No change in the features of thecountry, which throughout is well cultivated; here and there abundance ofsedges, in the low ground; plenty of watercuts, but none of any greatsize: road worse at the entrance of the ghat rounding the east boundary, but guns might avoid this ground by keeping towards centre of the ghat. 

12th. --To Sha-i-wa, distance 8 miles. The road after turning the angleof Bussout ghat, passed entirely through cultivation, villages, trees andinhabitants more numerous than in any other place, cuts numerous, but theroad altogether from this cause and the cultivated fields very bad. Rubusfound along cuts at Chunar-Bukkeen. _Toot_, _Phaenix_. Vines numerous, of large size, running up mulberry trees; forests seen on Koonermountain? _Umlook_ and _Julghogal_, very common grain, very dear. Thewomen are generally clothed in dark blue _Noorgul_. The road now extendsup a gorge to our front, named Durrah. 

Gooraiek fort on the opposite side. 

_13th_. --Halted. River much clearer than that of Jallalabad; its bedaffords abundance of large grass. 

_14th_. --Rejoined camp, keeping on the north bank of river. The roadpassed over tillable recesses among the hills forming the north boundaryof Kooner valley, and over the spurs dividing these, of which the firstis short but bad, the last is a mile long, road infamous, narrow, rocky, and in some places overhanging the river. I was attacked about a mileand a half from camp, my servant Abdool Boyak, the bravest and mosttrustworthy Asiatic I ever saw, wounded, losing the two first fingers ofhis right hand; this was opposite the old Fort, Noorgul, which is adilapidated _kafir_ ruin on a low island in the centre of the valley andriver, a strong position. {435} Other ruins occur on the road, one nearSek-Syud, the spur being covered with its remains. 

After leaving Deh-Syud, the valley becomes contracted; the riveroccupying almost all its level portion, being much spread out, and withnumerous grassy islands; the cultivation occurring in the recessesbetween the banks of the rivers and the glacis slopes. 

_15th_. --To Kooner, the road passes to Noorgul, an old _kafir_ fort, doneup and occupied by Kooneriles, to its south-west, three-quarters of amile a hostile fort is situated. The ferry is about two miles fromNoorgul, and is with difficulty fordable: the streams, three in number, the last almost brim full, and very rapid; thence to Kooner is over acultivated country. 

Noorgul is on a commanding position, the ground rising gradually on allsides to it; the valley here is very narrow. Observed Cnicus, Fumaria, Lotus, Anagallis caerulea, and Veronica agrestis, springing up: treescontinue the same to about Kooner: some fine plane trees observed. 

All the mountains are wooded at a certain height, and in greaterquantities, very different however from Himalayan forests, being dottedin parts, rather than uniformly clothed with forest, Andropogon one ofthe ordinary spring forms: the _churs_ or islands in the river are alsocovered with Andropogoneous vegetation. 

_16th_. --To Pushut, or rather to within one mile of it, rain throughoutthe day accompanied by an unpleasant wind down the valley. Road exceptfor the first mile, during which it passed through cultivation, troublesome, otherwise with the exception of two ravines, at one of whichthe horses were taken out of the guns, very good: valley narrow, saythree miles, the boundary ridges to the north presenting as it were, truncate faces to the valley, all the mountains at certain heights arewell wooded. 

_17th_. --Rain continued since, almost without intermission, very dirtyweather, but no wind. 

Snow on the hills around, almost within 1, 500 to 2, 000 feet of this, themountains to the south are well wooded, the woods occurring here andthere in forests; snow is said to fall here occasionally. 

_18th_. --The attack took place this morning, and failed on account of theweather, which was sufficient to damp any thing, and which prevented thepowder bags from exploding, as well as a second cask of cartridges. Themen were withdrawn about twelve, rain pouring down, ammunition of theguns being expended, and that for musquetry quite useless; a few morerounds would have demolished the entrance gateway and brought it downbodily; loss severe, twenty five men killed, thirty-two wounded, severaldangerously. The fort was well defended, and evidently by a mere handfulof people. 

_19th_. --Last night the fort was evacuated as well as that on theopposite side, and the Syud has made off into the hills. It cleared upin the morning but is now as threatening as ever, the ditch of the fortis twelve or fifteen feet deep, but like all Affghan ditches it isnarrow. The parapets were very slight, so that a more powerful batterywould have kept down their fire completely; no injury had occurred to theinner gate except its being off one of its hinges, or rather out of oneof its sockets. The entrance _was thus round the gate_, notthrough the gateway: it was protected by a thick screen of brushwood andmud, all of the shots from the second position had lodged in the wallclose to the side of the gate; every thing was carried off, except alittle grain, and some gunpowder. 

_20th_. --Continued rain. 

_21st_. --Snow within 500 feet. 

_22nd_. --Moved camp. 

_23rd_. --Continued rain and sleet, almost passing into snow. 

[Section of Kooner valley: m436. Jpg]

_Desideratum_. --Required to ascertain positively whether the shingle andboulders are in all cases not derived from the boundary mountains: thatthey are not in many cases is clear, witness the declivities of slaterocks, totally incapable of assuming the form of boulders. Theproportions of the cultivated to the uncultivatable land is previouslygiven rather in favour of the tillable portion, this is always a light, almost impalpable powder, consistent when wetted: generally the soil owesany fertile qualities it has here, to the presence of water; thus theDusht-i-Bedowlut produces nothing beyond its indigenous plants fromhaving no water. 

The transition from the extremely bare mountains of the Hindoo-koosh asseen on the road to Bamean, to the well wooded ones of the Himalaya, takes place at Jugdulluck, the hills, round which, produce plenty ofBaloot: in this direction, the forests become much thicker as we proceedto the eastward. There is a mountain near Jallalabad, which at oncearrests the attention from its being wooded. Nothing like it occurringbetween this and Cabul, on any part of the chain of mountains distinctlyreferrable to the Himalayas. Wooded as this is, it is nothing to thewoods on the mountains about Pushut, the size of these has been welldemonstrated by the late snows: some bare places occur, whichappearances, Abdool says are from cultivation of Kohistanes. Balootabounds, Dodonea also is now coming into flower! a curious fact pointingout its northern qualifications, although in form it is very like aMergui Dodonea. 

_24th_. --A clear day after a night of heavy rain, still no appearance ofsettled weather; walked in the afternoon towards the Dhurrah at the southside of the valley. The bouldery slope presented an abrupt bank of aconsiderable angle, and its limits were most marked from that of thetillable soil; as we approached the foot of the ghat, the fragmentsbecame larger, they are angular, and have been little if at all worn;thence I walked eastwards to a small isolated ridge of limestone, perhapsa mile from the foot of the boundary chain, and returned to camp. Inthis direction, which is that of the torrents, occasionally rushing outof the Dhurrah, the transition between the mountain slope, and thetillable soil, was gradual, the action of water carrying farther downsmall fragments, and turning some of the fields into a sandy shinglysoil: the depth of the beds of these torrents here, is perhaps four feet, the section being a mass of very unequal fragments. 

I am not certain whether these fragments are derived from the mountainsor not, they seem to be too varied, and too widely spread for that, although the course of the occasional torrents must vary very much. 

Another puzzling thing is, that in the section afforded by the ditch ofthe fort, and which is seventeen feet deep, the shingle underlies thetillable soil. 

The vegetation of the slopes here partakes of the nature of the Khyberpass, the prevailing feature consists in coarse tufts of Andropogonousgrasses, Lycioides occurs, also Periplocea, also Cryptandoid, Euonymus, these are on the cliffy ridge of limestone alluded to, 2 sp. OfAstragalus, Solanum jacquini? Schaenanthus, Sedoides pictum very common, a small fern, apparently a Cryptogramma, Grimonia, Tortula, a Bryum, three or four lichens, one Marchantiacea found under boulders or increvices of rocks, one Salsola, Fagonia, Dianthoid, Statice common, Onosma, Artemisia one or two, a large Cnicoid. 

The only new feature is a shrubby dwarf fragrant Composita, foliis albissubobovatis, dentatis grossiusculi margine revolutis. 

_24th_. --A break after a very wet night, cloudy throughout the day. 

_25th_. --A fine day, particularly towards evening, beautifully clear. 

_26th_. --No rain, but very cloudy, cold north-east wind. 

_27th_. --Rain very threatening, a disgusting country in which it isimpossible to take exercise without a strong guard: no means of access tothe beautiful forests visible in several directions, and the natives areso intractable that it is impossible to induce them to bring in specimensof their various trees, the only things about which I am anxious. 

In the meantime I have begun to use the theodolite, and gettingapproximations to the height of those peaks remarkable for their featuresof vegetation. 

It is curious that no pines are visible on any range south of the Koonerriver, until we reach those heights on the opposite side of a veryconspicuous ravine, up which the Bajore road runs. To the north, on allthe ranges of sufficient height, fine forests are visible, especially offirs, other large-crowned trees exist, forming the bulk of the forests, below the limit of the pines, but never grouped as those are, butoccurring isolatedly, these I call generally, _Baloot_ woods, i. E. Quercus _Baloot_. 

The only means I have of gaining any idea of the composition of theseforests, are derived from the twigs and branches, which are used by thenatives as pads for the loads of _wood_ which they bring into for sale, and which almost consequently are from the lowermost limits of woodyvegetation. To go among the woods unguarded, is impossible, andsecondly, the weather is very bad. 

_Memoranda_. --That it cannot always be deficiency of soil which causesthe extreme barrenness of the usual Khorassan mountains, because on theKalo Pass to Bamean, nearly 13, 000 feet high, the soil is abundant; butin this case, height may interfere. 

It is obvious between Kooner and Cabul, that the transition fromabsolutely treeless mountains to well-wooded ones occurs nearer to Koonerthan Cabul, because the Hindoo-koosh about Cabul, and to the eastward, issaid to be treeless. 

How interesting will the examination of these woods be, how differentwill be their flora from that of Khorassan proper!

To define the Khorassan Province also, by its being destitute of wood ortrees. Note its passing off from this character between Ghuzni andQuettah, see Marryott's letter about Kooner, compare with _Mazenderam__forests_. Fine plane trees occur here, all the vines are trained onmulberries. What is Burnes' holly oak, or lily oak?

Rubus occurs, Ranunculus stolonifolia, a cold season plant, Euphorbiaditto, and the usual Peshawur forms. 

_28th_. --Fine weather; clouds however, still flying about. 

_29th_. --A fine morning; in the afternoon threatening, night cloudy, allthe clouds come down the ravine! except when the wind occasionally shiftsto west. 

_30th_. --Fine weather, although still unsettled. I procured the otherday a few specimens of trees from the hills to the south of this, amongthese which amount only to a few, are one Myrtus, an Olenia, both ofwhich bear me out in assuming that the woody vegetations of these hillswill present a curious transition between the genuine Australio-Europeanand the Himalayan forms. 

_31st_. --Almost every isolated rock in this country is covered with ruinswhich vary much in extent, and are often barely perceptible, but carefullooking will detect them in all situations about gorges, and such places. From the rivers running under rocks, the paths which must be resorted to, at least at this season, are very difficult. It would be curious tospeculate on the different state of preservation of these ruins, and thesingular people to whom they are due. 

The soil of this valley is very deep in places: in one place on theopposite side of the river, it is twenty-five feet at least, the depthobviously diminishing towards the bed of the river, or the lowest part ofthe valley. 

[Section through river valley: m440. Jpg]

In this valley, at least about here, curious round thatched huts arevisible about villages, intended for religious females, they are closedexcept at a small door. 

Cotton much cultivated. 

The _Jala_, or float skins used for crossing rivers, are inflated by_bellows_ of the usual description, this causes delay as some require tobe inflated very often owing to the eagerness of those who want to beferried over, and who rush indiscriminately on the _Jala_ which, from therafts being few and far apart, occasion delay; such ferries were notintended for impatient travellers; nothing can show the want ofintelligence of the people more than this abominably slow method ofcrossing rivers; here, there is little excuse for it, as wood isabundant. 

The Culminating peak to the west of the north Dhurrah, shows that here, as elsewhere, snow lies longer on the north than south sides: it alsoaffords a curious instance of the various disposition of snow: thoseangles of its faces presented to the south having none, or little snow;or does this depend upon the faces having different declivities?

_February 1st_. --First part of last night clear; but the wind shiftingfrom west to north-east, has again thoroughly clouded the sky, nightbeautifully clear, no rain, and no wind during the day. 

_2nd_. --A windy but clear night, succeeded by a beautiful morning, windas usual, north-east or thereabouts, i. E. Down the river. 

I have seen it mentioned somewhere, that in arid climates the onlysupport of vegetable life exists in the dews, which are hence, at leastin the cases alluded to, supposed to be providential adaptations tosupply certain deficiencies. But considering that dews consist ofnothing but a deposition of moisture: it follows that in very aridclimates, as there is no moisture, so there can be no dews. For thedeposition of a dew, the fist essential thing, is moisture, either in theground or in the air, this last may have been derived from the ground. Ifneither the ground nor the air contain moisture, no dews can exist, thisis the case in Khorassan. 

Throughout the whole campaign no dews were noticed, although the nightswere almost uniformly serene and calm, and the time chosen for marching, would have certainly brought us in contact with them had they beendeposited. Dews therefore do not form in Khorassan, _with these__exceptions_, that wherever from the nature, and the level of the soil, water was found very near the surface, dews were deposited; as on the_Chummums_ or low marshy pasturages at Candahar, Cabul, etc. 

But even these were trifling, the aridity of the air being too great ascompared with the small extent of Chummums, to allow the deposit of anyconsiderable portion of the moisture it had derived from the ground. 

So that aridity, instead of being adapted to dews, is a serious obstacleto their ever appearing. With the rarity of dew, that of hoarfrost whichis nothing but frozen dew, may be associated; nor does hoarfrost oftenoccur, because in Khorassan it rains in the winter too freely, particularly in all such places whose elevation is not sufficient tocause the formation of snow, and hence where other circumstances arefavourable for hoarfrosts, _they are too much watered_ as itwere, and seldom occur. With extreme aridity, Khorassan unites extremeelectricity, the casual friction of woollen cloths, especially those ofcamels' hair being accompanied by discharges sufficiently startling. Thesame thing happens when caressing dogs or horses. I could never fill thebarometer without experiencing a shock as the mercury approached the_bottom end_ of the tube, which (when nervous) used to endanger it. 

It is this extreme aridity that gives Khorassan so rich a spring flora, this season being that of rain, of melting of snow, and the ground beingwell moistened. 

It is this extreme aridity that necessitates the abundance of bulbousplants in Khorassan, these deposits of nutrition existing even in severalof its Compositae. 

Query--Why are Carduaceae, (Artemisia) so adapted to aridity?

The region of Carduaceae, commences about Ghuzni, and extends to _Maidan_or Cabul, it is at its maximum about Shaikabad and Huftasya. Theabundance of Carduaceae on the higher grounds, as for instance towardsBamean, belong rather to a vernal flora. 

I hope to be particular in hereafter comparing the floras of all thedeserts? and to notice the absurd remarks of some travellers inKhoristhan, on the domesticated parasitic nature of the watermelon plant, on the Hedysarum Alhagi, _Shooturkari_. 

_3rd_. --Fine moderate north-east wind, very clear. 

_4th_. --Over-clouded. 

_5th_. --Rain. 

_6th_. --Unsettled. 

_7th_. --Rain, thunder, distant lightning occasionally last night. 

_8th_. --Fine: ice in the morning, thermometer five feet from the ground35 degrees at 7 A. M. 

_9th_. --Fine diffused clouds last night, succeeded by a strong northeastwind. 

_10th_. --Fine. 

_11th_. --Fine in the morning, then threatening. 

_12th_. --Quite over-clouded, north-east wind. The inferior level of snowis now several hundred feet above that which it was at first. 

Oxalis corniculata in abundance, what an universal plant this is. 

All the natives of these parts wear sandals, those about the Khyber beingmade of the leaves of a small Chamaerops, which is common on the rocks ofthose mountains. 

A proof of the extreme want of useful plants is seen in the fact, thatbaskets are scarcely ever seen, all the loads of flour, etc. Beinginvariably carried in skins. 

Leopards' skins for the purpose are obtained from Chugur Serai, Pullungand also Sofaid-Koh. 

_16th_. --The troops marched on their return. A lark very much like theEnglish species occurs in flocks; it is a stupid bird, although obviouslyaware of its resemblance to clods of earth, which it makes use of onevery occasion when a little frightened. The Gypaetos is also foundhere; it feeds principally on carrion. I observed Trichrodroma for thefirst time here to-day, this bird is by no means a powerful climber;indeed the individual seen to-day could only cling, he was employed aboutsand banks of the irrigating canals, etc. Hopping from one likely spot toanother, clinging here and there momentarily, and always aiding himselfin his inclined position by a flutter of his wings; holes seemed alwaysto attract him. It is by no means a shy bird. I should observe howeverthat I have seen this species running up and down cliffs, so that perhapsthe rather loose sand would not give firm hold to his claws. 

As I mentioned elsewhere, this bird is allied, at least in analogy toUpupa, it has its precise habit of flight and a good deal of its habitsin looking for food, although the Hoopoe pokes about in the ground, orrather hammers the ground alone. It is however fond of building in holesof walls, it breeds at Punukka, in April. 

I observed, and shot a weasel, or a _mungoose_ to-day, whilst it wasemployed feeding on the cast away skin of a goat or sheep, so that someof these creatures evidently feed occasionally on carrion, although theyare said to live upon live prey. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

_On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants_. 

_17th_. --Fine weather, the sun daily increasing in power, is having aremarkable effect on the peculiar spring vegetation, but this is notsufficiently developed to bring in the corresponding birds and insects. Gypaetos is common now about the dead camels. 

On the low east ridge, along the path that leads over the river, ruins ofancient times are discernible, this only adds another to the many proofsof similarly situated ruins, that the people who built them have beenlocated about Cabul, Jallalabad, and Peshawur, certainly not aboutCandahar. 

In the soil between the rocks, and in their crevices saturated withmoisture, most of the plants are just sprouting. Trichonema, Crocus, andone or two other monocotyledons, Labiatae? Sedum three or four species, exclusive of Sedoides foliis deltoides sphathulatis, and a StapelioidAsclepias, are to be found. I also got a new fern, the fourth speciesout of 1, 300 sp. It is a Ceterach or Grammitis, a curious stalked snuff-ball, and one or two other Fungi, with an inverted cap, were met with. 

In the fields a young Ranunculus in profusion, Veronica agrestis, Euphorbia, Festuca annua?

Kochia spinosa, and a curious Mathioloid are among the few wild plants tobe found about Pushut. 

It would be a curious circumstance if all indusiate ferns were to befound reducible to a _marginal production_ of the reproductiveapparatus. I will bear this in mind, as certain forms of Pteris or itsaffinities lead me to suspect that in these tribes the indusium may be along way from the margin, and yet be, quoad origin, marginal; thissection illustrates my meaning. 

[Fern sections: m444. Jpg]

The transition to this might reasonably be suspected. The philosophy offerns is most ill understood, the higher points connected with them havebeen quite neglected, and botanists in this as in other departments ofthe science have been contented to confer names on certain externalforms, without sufficient regard to structure. 

To-day I commenced examining Adiantum, with the view of determining ifpossible the nature of its reproductive organs, and the mode in whichthey are impregnated, if they are impregnated at all. 

As I had long been aware that the fructification of each frond is a thingto be determined at a very early period, and that if not determined then, it is never likely to be determined afterwards, my attention was directedmore strongly, if possible, than it would have been otherwise, toexamining the subject at the earliest possible stage of its development. 

The first piece examined gave me the idea that I had trouve le noeud del'affaire; the second made me doubt this; the subsequent ones went far todisprove it. 

I was immediately struck with the resemblance of those organs, calledramenta, to what are fairly assumed to be the male bodies, in certainother families of the same grand division; and I at once came to theconclusion, that the barren fronds, were barren, because almost destituteof these ramenta; and that as these ramenta were confined to the base ofthe stalk, that is, to the part below its first ramification, an obviousnecessity existed for the peculiar nature of the vernation. 

Further examination of the thing, especially of the base of the stipesand the adjoining part of the rhizoma, threw me back almost into myoriginal difficulties. I find that the rhizoma is entirely covered withramenta, which are brown, much detached at the base, and obviouslyrepresent a low form of leaf, i. E. In appearance, perhaps partly infunction, but not in structure. Among these, mature ramenta at thepunctas of prolongation, which appear to be very irregular, areconcealed, others much smaller, and much narrower, (which bear as obviousa resemblance, or even more so to the male organs of certain otherorders, ) than the ramenta on the stipes. These are never entirely brown, the end cell alone is coloured, but though occasionally tinged withbrown, they are filled with some fluid (even this is not so at first, )but do not appear to open. I believe that subsequently all become highlytinged with brown, but what increase of growth they subsequently undergo, I know not. The terminal cell is always solitary, very often attached tothe one next it, which is generally single, obliquely placed, occasionally looking like the dimidiate calyptra capping a young seta. The number of cells forming the base, or dilated part varies, but isalways small in proportion to the larger ramenta, or protecting scales:these last have a single terminal cell, which in fact must be the same inevery really cellular growth _sooner or later_, the last degree offormative power being the production of a single cell. 

At a subsequent period, still an early one, the terminal cell is fuscous-brown, and this colour then extends to the next in various degrees, butif it reaches the basilar ones at all, it does so at late periods. Thebase of the terminal cell, and parts of the parietes of the next andnext, present a coagulated appearance, precisely as in certain mosses. 

No such thing as a petiolate leaf occurs in acrogens, all are attached bya broad base? Of acrogenous leaves, those only are leaves whoseattachment is at right angles with the stem; the rest are divisions of afrond. Thus far with the ramenta. The divisions of the frond, are, Ifind, not gyrate, but rather cochleariform involate. The futurereproductiveness is settled at a very early period, and isdistinguishable under the microscope by a sort of _margination_ of thefrondlets. In the earliest stage I have looked at, the margin isgreenish, striated by narrow cells, and passes into the body of the leafgradually; the greater development is perhaps central; even now the bulkof the cells of the leaflet have green granules, and are opaque from air. The vessels are marked out, or at least their future course, and alongthem the opacity from air does not exist, so that the veins appeardepressed. 

The next stage presented a greater development of an isolation of themargin, but no other change. The next presented an isolation of themargin, which remains almost white, the other part being green, but moreso because of a thickening as it were along the base of the marginalpart, and an evident deposit of grumous matter, from which, under everycircumstance new tissue seems always to be developed. Pressure causesits discharge, its contents were unappreciated by my poor instruments;after this the leaflets revert to the appearance of the second stage. Here I ceased for the day, having I think ascertained that ferns areendorhizal, and that the primary divisions of the roots hence havesheaths, which adhere to the apex of the root itself. --What a strangeunion of roots, that of monocotyledons in the main divisions, and of pureacrogens in the minor!!

I cannot help thinking that the secret is hidden in these ramenta, which, as is known, are so universal as obviously to have higher functions thanthose of mere covering scales. The appearance of those I have describedas existing about the points of growth, are exactly the same as theprocesses mixed with the anthers of mosses, and of which the anthers arenothing but more developed growths; this would point out, as indeedappears to me otherwise evident, (especially from consideration of thetheca, and its want of style, ) that ferns are lower organised as sexualbeings than mosses and Hepaticae. I know nothing of Lycopodineae, morethan they are the highest of all acrogens; and are not to be included inthe same category with ferns. 

The objection to the ramenta being anthers, will be the closed nature(_apparently_) of the terminal cell, and although the anthers of mossesdo burst, and most especially those of Hepaticae, yet the argument is notconclusive--inasmuch as _boyaux_, to which they are analogous _do not__open_?

These ramenta explain fully the nature of those confervoid organs foundin some Neckerae, and perhaps in other mosses, and it becomes paramountto prove whether these Neckerae have also the usual anthers, or if theyare confined to these, in which case a presumptive proof will thus beafforded of their functions: if they have both forms, they willnevertheless constitute an analogous passage between the two orders: ifthey have only _these_, such Neckerae will form, as indeed they do, avery distinct genus. 

The nature of the barren fronds requires distinct analysis. Are theybarren from mere deficiency in supplies, such as may result from manycircumstances; or are the antheriform ramenta deficient? They are barrenfrom defective growth. I am aware how readily objection may be taken tothese views, some will say these young ramenta are nothing but youngscales as the older ones evidently are scales; but this amounts tonothing, because we may expect simplicity in the sexual organs of thisdivision, and it will be only a proof of the uniformity of nature inmaking so great a difference in a function depend on, or be associatedwith so small a one in form. My view I think explains their uniformlybrown colour--analogous to Brown's sphacelation in mutatis mutandis. 

Others will say how absurd the idea is, when you cannot show the place towhich the impregnating influence is to be applied. But the considerationof mosses does away with this objection partly, and that of Anthoceros, entirely; because in mosses, the _ovule_, or pre-existing cell, ready toreceive the male influence becomes an empty cell, terminating the seta;and the sporula become developed at its opposite end, the first growthappearing to be quite unconnected with that of the future reproductiveorgans: and in Anthoceros there is no fixed punctum ready for theapplication of the male organs, but these have to form a communicationwith the lower, or inferior cellular tissue of the frond, before even thegrowth of seta can commence. 

Besides a case in point exists in Viscum, or Loranthus, in which no pointis ready prepared for the reception of the male influence; showing howuniversal the law is, that in no one point or place is there an absolutewant of gradation. 

As in mosses the influence of the male _disregarding the ovule_, isthrown into the development of the seta, and then of the theca at theapex of this; there can be no conclusive reason why in ferns the sameinfluence should be thrown into the development of the frond, and theninto that of the theca. 

While Anthoceros proves that in these orders the male influence may exertits effects upon any point. 

As there is no styliform production in Anthoceros, so there is none inferns. If the ramenta be anthers, they will not be dubious ones, becauseas they remain fixed, people cannot say, that possibly they are alsoreproductive bodies, which by the bye is no objection at all, afterinstances of anthers bearing _ovules_ instead of pollen!

Why the peculiar distribution of the male influence (on which wedetermine our genera, ) takes place, is another question, and one thatcannot be fairly asked?

Why it is confined to the under surface perhaps can, it being a law thatin all cases it is the under surface of the leaf, or its modification, from which new growths originate, and as nature has closed indusia, howcould the under surface be interior if this rule were not regularlyadhered to?

That the indusium is a _special_ organ, i. E. Not an eruption of thecuticle, I am sure; hence it is essential to examine extensively bothindusiate and other forms, the precise extension of their veins, etc. Atan early period to ascertain if their most diversified situations cannotbe reduced to some one type. 

_Query_. Is the gyrate vernation of any ferns comparable to the form ofcertain shells, to which (at least Mollusca) ferns are supposed to beanalogous. 

_Memo_. To ascertain the most peculiar, and most universal points ofMollusca and Pseudo cotyledonea, it is in this way that we may hope toextend our views. Some there are indeed who, while the whole course oftheir studies has been to neglect structure, deny the applicability ofpresumptive evidence in favour of doctrines, the subjects of which arebarely susceptible of direct proof. Thus Greville and Arnott, angrilyask, what do persons mean by saying that mosses have pistilla, etc. ? theyprotest against such community of application in the use of terms. Manymore deny sexuality because it has not been proved. Considering theinvisible nature of the fluid of the anthers of mosses, etc. How do theyexpect that we are to demonstrate its application to the pistil, and thesubsequent steps? As well might they doubt the necessity of theapplication of the boyau to an ovule, (or the existence of the boyauitself, ) because the derivation of the embryo cannot be proved. 

One word more; in all cases the appearance of the reproductive body afterimpregnation, is of late date; that date becomes later as we descend thescale. The embryonary sac of Phaenogams does not always exist at thetime of application of the boyau, and the appearance of the embryo isalways posterior to this. 

Again, ferns are superior to mosses in this, that in many cases the maleinfluence is exerted directly on the parts that become the thecae, whichis not the case in mosses. 

_18th_. --Continued examining ferns, and to-day completes my knowledge ofthe ramenta of three different genera. 

In the first which is Cryptogamma, the resemblance of the young ramentato the anthers of Jungermannia is evident enough, they are capital, andthe head is at one period filled with granular matter: so are the cellsthroughout, to a greater or less extent. They are to be seen in allstages of development on the pinnae of a very young frond, those near itsbase having perhaps effected their purpose, while those at the apex ofthe pinna, or the prolonging part of pinnula, may be formed of only onecell. It is curious that the terminal cell does not become spherical forsome time: in its earlier stages it is cylindrical like the rest. 

The appearances of the old ones are, if possible, more markedly in favourof my hypothesis; there is the same aggregation of grumous _congealed_matter about the ends of each cell, the same curious communicationbetween these masses which hide the septa from view, evincing a greateror less tendency to assume the peculiar fuscesent or fusco-brownappearance. I observed in two instances what appeared to me decidedirregular openings in the terminal cell, from one of which grumousfilaments projected; these appeared to communicate with the mass in theterminal cell, which like that in all the others, is congealed; but itassumes a different and very undefined form. 

People may object and say, why were not more met with _opened_? This isno objection, because it is obvious that a spherical body may be openedin part of its surface, and yet unless this portion happens to be on the_edge_ as it were of the sphere, it may escape detection with amicroscope of poor penetration. 

In this the ramenta are confined, or nearly so, to the under surface ofthe fronds. Most occupy that which is called the costa. In this thefirst change as in Adiantum is in the definition of the margin. But thispoint I have not paid much attention to, as with my present means here, it would be absurd to attempt _proving_ how the fecundation takes place;all that I can attempt is, to ascertain from structure and analogy, themale nature of these curious bodies. 

_See_ Plate _B_ for the various sketches. {450}

The next genus examined, is perhaps the instance in which these ramentahave the strongest resemblance to ordinary simple hairs, both in theiryoung, when they represent succulent, tinged, grumousmolecular-containing hairs, and in the old, when they represent long, flattened, coriaceous hairs, still there is abundant evidence to provethat, however different these bodies are in appearance from those ofCryptogamma, that they undergo the same changes, excepting perhaps as todehiscence. We have a tendency to fuscous colouring, a tendency to theaggregation of congealed matter about the septae, precisely the placeswhere it is to be expected. The same appearance of a canal ofcommunication, the same irregular _constriction_ of certain cells; inthis too the first change in the pinnae, or its component lobes, is thedefinition of the margin. In this genus the under surface of the frondis covered with these _hairy-form_ bodies (which have been figured overand over again in Hooker and Greville's ferns): on the upper face, a fewexist, but incomparably less developed. 

From the examination of this genus alone, I do not think the idea I havebeen so diffuse upon, would have struck me. 

To-morrow I examine Ceterach, assured that the scales of its under faceare reducible to the same type. In a matter of such interest andimportance as this, many will, and with reason, dislike so important anassumption on such inconclusive evidence. But with our present means, itappears to me probable that no evidence to demonstration can be lookedfor, and for this reason, that the contents of these peculiar cells areso subtile as to escape definition even while in their cells, (or underthe most favourable circumstance for a concentration of attention. ) Howmuch more so will this be the case, when we attempt to examine the stepsof the application of the fecundatory matter, applied over a surfacewithout any prominent points, and probably opaque. 

When direct evidence is not to be had, we are justified in usingpresumptive evidence. As in human law, so in the laws of nature, presumptive evidence to a practised eye carries with it conviction. Wehave no direct evidence how the embryo is formed, yet no one doubts butthat it is brought about by the agency of the boyau, which is a cellcontaining grumous molecular matter. However different a boyau may seemto many, yet when viewed in conjunction with Cycadeae, the graduation tothe present case becomes natural, and even the resemblance may beperfect, because in Cycas the grains of pollen get into the nucleusbodily, although they would still seem to throw out short tails. 

Wonderful is the simplicity of nature! The male organ in its essence, consists of a single cell containing molecular matter. 

The female in its essence consists of a single cell, likewise containingsimilar matter. The influence of the male is exerted, and so anothercell is formed in the female cell, and this either becomes the embryo, orgives origin to another cell, and so on, until the terminal one becomesthe embryo. 

I believe from examination of the most developed scaly ramenta, thatthese have at an earlier period been fecundating organs, the samepeculiarities are to be detected towards their ends, where in fact theyretain their original structure, the dilated base being a subsequentdevelopment. 

In reference to this, the examination of young ferns on their arrival atthe age of puberty is indispensable. A curious question arises, what isthe frond of a fern? Is it a mass of foliaceous growth containingcertain lines of reproductive matter, or is it a distinct developmentfrom the axis, in which the reproductive organs are situated? Is it, oris it not, subservient to reproduction? Here again extensive examinationis necessary. 

If it is altogether subordinate to reproduction, we may expect theoccurrence of far more simply constituted ferns than we are yetacquainted with. In fact we may expect a form reduced to an axis, a fewramenta, a frondose dilatation, and one punctum of reproductive organs. 

With respect to duration, each frond is analogous to a single seta of amoss, it has definite limits, and is unlike the fronds of certainHepaticae, which are capable of compound growth; or if this is the casein ferns, as it is in viviparous ferns, the new formation becomesseparated from the frond, as a Phaenogamous gemma does. This is aquestion of importance, as perhaps it may prove that all the foliaceousforms, except Lycopodium, Equisetum, and Chara, are frondose; the dorsalsituation is in favour of this assumption, since in all the genuinefrondose forms, the reproductive organs of both kinds originateimmediately from the under surface, although they may protrude throughthe upper. 

I here ask, is there not _prima facie_ evidence that these organs havepeculiar functions; a peculiar form, attended with peculiar changes, musthave peculiar functions; and will any one show me in any single instance, like circumstances to the like extent, in any of those organs calledhairs? By the bye, ferns themselves may prove that however like theseare to certain forms of hair, yet that their functions are different, because the glandular hairs of ferns do not undergo the same alterations, and are evidently nothing but hairs, probably secretory. 

_19th_. --In Ceterach the same thing occurs precisely, with thisdifference, that the _capita_ of the ramenta are highly developed; andstill more, that the terminations of each pinnula of the young frond, aremere scales without a terminal _head_. 

So that almost all the scales of the under surface of the lobes of themature frond, are mere scales. The peculiar ramenta are to be looked foralong the insertion of each pinna, and along the rachis, in which allhave the peculiar structure. 

At the time that these scales are commencing their development, thepeculiar ones are at the age of mature perfection, so far as functiongoes. No one can look at a young pinnula at this epoch and observe theevident capitation of each ramentum, the inflexion of its apex, so thatthe head is brought into contact with the frond, without suspecting thatthey have the same relation of _cause_ to the appearance subsequently ofthe thecae or capsules. It is curious that the colour of the scales isthe same as that of the ramenta, in which the colour is developed fromabove _downwards_, a peculiarity as it appears to me. 

The frond of Ceterach is very frondose-looking, it has stomata on itsunder surface, and the cells of the cuticle very sinuate. There can beno doubt of the propriety of including the nature of these ramenta andscales in its generic character. 

I can see nothing peculiar in the situation of the scales or ramenta tosuggest the reason of the situation of the capsules. 

In several cases, each pinna appears to have scales only which becomebarren lobes? the scales and ramenta have the same imbricate situation. In this country it will be useless to expect more proofs. But the fourgenera alluded to afford evidence enough, and sufficient to show thatthese ramenta are formed with reference to some important function, thattheir universality is incompatible with any functions of such minordegree as are attributed to them by those who represent them to be scalesor hairs. 

To those who require proof of the existence of the complex male organ ofPhaenogams, or of a male of that form with which only they are familiar, I do not address myself; but to the philosophic botanist, who expects tomeet with in the lower orders of plants, a lower organization, one with atendency of reduction to the essential elements, and who bears in mindthe comparative anatomy and structure of similar bodies in adjoining, ornot very distant groups, I beg leave to suggest the intimate study of theramenta of Ferns. 

Various as the situation of the fructification is, in three out of theabove four genera, yet the initial arrangements are precisely the same. The various forms therefore may not depend proximately on fructificationitself, but on the peculiar growth given to the species, in the same wayin fact as we have the numerous modifications of the theca in mosses, etc. And the infinite modifications of the carpels in Phaenogams. 

(Attention is particularly pointed to those ferns which have generalcapsules or involucres. 

Above all to the Cyatheoid forms. 

To Ophioglossum. 

To naked Thecae. 

To indusiate as Asplenia, etc. )

But however erroneous these views may be, they will still have been ofservice if general attention is directed by them to plants, inconsequence of the suggestions they make. The time now thrown away onisolated species, the station of which, still does not become fixed, whendevoted to the philosophical examination of ferns, will rescue botanyfrom one of its numerous reproaches. It is strange that such shouldexist to the greatest degree in all those families stamped by nature asmost distinct. Those chaoses Polypodium, Aspidium, Davallia, would thenundergo distinct creation, and the primary divisions of the family wouldbecome fixed; and we should then be spared the reproach of drawingcharacters from organs, of the nature and functions of which we are quiteignorant of, and of the importance of which in a science of demonstrationlike that of botany, it is impossible to judge, without a true knowledgeof structure. 

Vide Lindley's Introd. Ed. 2, 407, for the protest of Greville andArnott. 

What is the most comprehensive definition of a pistil. A case in whichthe future organs of reproduction are developed; and here is a mostcurious circumstance, namely, that though the calyptra, which is agenuine pistillum containing an _ovulum_, becomes torn up from its base, yet it remains in contact with that part of the seta in which thesporules are developed until these make their appearance, or even later!!so that one might as well deny a pistillum to a Reseda, or Leontice, asdeny it to these plants on the strength of its being torn from itsattachments. Sprengel's objections are worthy only of being noticed fromtheir having been quoted by Lindley. The vagueness of his statementdestroys all weight. 

His objections in all cases amount to the fact, that the _stellulae_ or_buds_ containing the anthers are capable of growth. So is theprolongation of an axis of Ananassa. 

A Gemma has a general character in its formation as well as an anther, oras pollen; one is a congeries of cellular tissue, with or withoutvessels, the other a sac consisting of a single cell containing activemolecular matter. As an anther producing a single grain of pollen is notinconsistent with our notions of structure, so neither is an antherconsisting of a single grain of pollen. 

Will any one show me an instance of a proved gemma taking upon itself theform of one of these anthers? Will any show an instance of a saccontaining fluid matter capable of growth _after dehiscence_. The realgemmae of the Hepaticae puts the question of gemmae out of doubt. Isthere any plant existing with two sorts of gemmae, so differentlyconstituted? Many phaenogams have gemma in addition to sexes, so haveHepaticae. Which is the most probable? That they should have no sexes, reproductive organs, and two sorts of gemmae, or sexes, reproductiveorgans, or gemmae of one evident kind?

I cannot adopt the belief of any one having seen the germination of thepowder in the axillary bodies, that is, if applicable to the organs Itake for anthers. 

(_Memorandum_. --To draw up a parallel between the two sets of organs, andthe steps followed in the development of each. )

CHAPTER XX. 

_From Pushut to Kettore and Barowl in Kaffiristan_, _and__return to Pushut and Cabul_. 

_February 20th_. --Fumaria found. 

_23rd_. --Cloudy, threatening rain. Swallows coming in, alsoFringillaria, with blackish cheek-streaks, also Pyrgita alia, starlingsuncommon up to this day about the site of the camp, where there is muchstraw, and camels are lying. Flocks of _rooks_, genuine rooks, flocks ofdaws, _minas_, pigeons, and many carrion crows have been daily resortingto camp, all very wild from being constantly fired at, as in this countryevery man almost has a matchlock. No Gypaetos seen for several days. 

_26th_. --Fine weather after two days uncertain, in which the large-headedlark has just come in abundance, this and the _English_ one frequentfields; the crystal one is found almost exclusively on certain stonycultivated places: swallows have likewise arrived with many wild fowl. Four raptorial birds are now seen about this, or rather three, forGypaetos has gone, viz. The common kite, or one which looks much like it, a beautiful white slaty-blue and black _harrier_, at least it comes aboutconstantly, and looks much like an Indian species, and much like one Ishot high up in Bootan, together with a large blackish and white one, with a _distinct collar_. The fishing hawk, I saw it yesterday catch alarge fish, making a strong rapid plunge boldly into the water, andemerging again from it without much difficulty; its habits except whilefishing, are very sedentary, and it seems to prefer _one spot_, viz. The top of some particular tree, near perhaps its favourite feedingplace. 

_27th_. --Another new bird has come in. A _Fringillina_, with curiousFlycatcher habits, I have only seen two individuals, they perch towardsthe top of trees, and thence sally out after winged insects. I examinedthe contents of its stomach, and found only seeds, gravel, and softinsects. 

The sun is increasing wonderfully in power, but the trees are not as yetbudded. Shrubby Polygoneae, with flagellate branches and leaves, inwhich the petiole is as much developed as the lamina, form a curiousfeature of Affghan Flora; Euphorbia linifolia common, the herbaceous onein profusion. 

_28th_. --Spring coming on rapidly, snow not within 2, 000 feet of where itwas twenty days back, and the sun oppressively hot; winged ants inabundance: whenever this happens it proves the perfection of the crows, which are on all such occasions to be seen acting the part of flycatchersin addition to their various other callings, soaring and sweeping roundafter these insects, but not returning as Merops or real flycatchers to afixed station. I have hitherto seen only the jackdaws at this spot inCalcutta, but here the real crow mingles in it. 

In Calcutta, the common kite often acts a similar part, but catches only_with its feet_. 

A small kingfisher is to be found here _rarely_, it is much like theIndian blue and reddish one, the white and black kingfisher is not seenhere, although found at Jallalabad. 

The species of _sub_-wader, with a stout upturned beak, is a trueGrallator, yet is not always about water, but often in the driest places;the genus has a flight strongly resembling that of certain Anatidae. 

A _Monaul_ pheasant, or some similar splendid bird is found in the snowsof Kaffiristan, all I have seen of it are a few feathers. 

Merula more common, _Anthus_, _Timalia_, observed. 

To-day one good specimen of a splendid pinus, allied to P. Longifolia, was brought from the mountains, where it is found _among snow_: thismakes the third species; one cultivated at Candahar near a mosque; theshort-leaved _Julghozeh_, from Tazeen; and this one which has as fine acone as can be wished. 

Where did the profusion of Justicia Adhatoda which I find here come from, is it not a distinct species?

_March 2nd_. --Proceeded to Chugur Serai, started from the other side ofthe ferry at 11. 30 A. M. , and reached at 4 P. M. No halt of anyconsequence on the road. Passed Nachung at 12. 50: the first rocky groundoccurred at the narrow part of the north side of the valley 2. 25. 

15th. --And thence to Chugur 4 P. M. , distance certainly thirteen miles. 

Road decent, good about half-way, where it extends over cultivation onfirm ground, then over rocky, stony, raviny ground. From the 12. 50station, the valley becomes much narrower, and the river confined to onebed: cultivation scanty, between this and Chugur, where, about 400 yardsof excessively difficult ground occurred, commanded by the precipiceunder which the path, which is execrable, runs. It is quite impassablefor guns. 

After this the country traversed seemed to be well cultivated: and evenpicturesque. 

The fort is nothing particular; it is placed on the right bank of theriver, which is deep, narrow and raviny: descent to the river abrupt. Thebridge very richly ornamented, and of curious and simple Bootan timberconstruction. 

Town small, and the people very civil: I lodged in Meer Alum's own house. 

Iris crocifolia abundant, towards Chugur, a Mazus or Stemodia. 

Mimosa that of the Khyber, common, Polygoni in abundance on the rocks, Dodonaea. 

The hills about Pushut are here only recognisable in two instances, thecentral one presenting three peaks, next to it the barren cliff, and thethree mountains south-west of Dhurrah. 

_3rd_. --Proceeded to Bala Chugur Serai, which is not more than six milesup the river, occasionally passing along the stony bank under hills, otherwise over cultivation, which is conducted in terraces. 

The scenery pretty, reminding me of low parts of Bootan, although muchmore barren; watercourses well made: two _kafir_ ruins passed; valleyvery narrow, but rather straight. Both chakor and small partridgescommon. Vegetation is here the same as elsewhere. Zaitoon trees, Mimosa, Euonymus, Dodonaea, Amygdalus in abundance, Polygonum ofyesterday. 

The stony slopes of hills, covered with Andropogoneous grasses. Rice, beans, wheat, oranges, _toot_, _chanra_. Narcissus in swarms, brought infrom the _kafirs_. 

Another bridge was here crossed, the same as at lower Chugur Serai. Notributaries passed, the river fordable at rapids, but the road is notpassable for guns. 

Aquila, Enicurus, Alcedo bengalensis common, as well as jack snipe. 

Red-billed crow, chakor, yellow wagtail, Fringilla, Muscicapa in flocks, feeding in the fields, and from trees on insects. 

The blackbird of the Himalayas, wild pigeons. Narcissus in abundance insandy fields, Cryptandrioid, Clematis, Rubus, Euonymus, Pteris!

We had an interview with the _kafirs_ or infidels about a mile belowKatoor, they seemed at first much alarmed, our retinue not being small orunarmed, and their reliance on Mussulman faith not very strong. Theytook up their post at the foot of a hill where a deputation of the Khanof Chugur Serai, (who has married a Chief's daughter) met them; theyreceived the deputation with a _feu de joie_ from one or twofirelocks, and then accompanied him to us, preceded by two drums, one ofordinary, the other of an hour-glass shape, and two pipes of gramineousculm, with three or four holes, and apparently oblique mouth-pieces, butof ordinary sound. The Chiefs, the head of whom is Hussin Ali's father-in-law, having been introduced, advanced, and commenced turning andstamping round a circle. 

The usual formalities then took place; the followers, although a finebodied people, and very active, were excessively dirty, and not veryfair; most were dressed in skins, having the hair inside, armed withbows, either straight or like cow's horns, and daggers. 

The Chiefs were much fairer than their followers, and in the expressionof face and eyes European; but in all cases the forehead was veryslanting, and head generally badly developed. 

Their dress consisted of cotton frocks, with slashed sleeves, embroideredthickly with worsted network: they wear short _pyjamas_, and skin shoes, with thick skin soles; one had short boots with hair inside: most wereornamented with the blue and yellow _longhys_ of Pushut, etc. The hairis cut short except that of the Chiefs, who had fillets left round theirheads, adorned with cowries, in radiated shapes, with a red, worsted, pendant tassel. The headman had a pendant wire chain with ornaments, andfrom the centre of the tassel, the _Monaul_ pheasant feathers, and hisback hair was plaited into many little tails. 

Almost all had necklaces of beads, the better sort silver earrings (plainrings), and some pendant silver ornaments; many had bracelets, ornamentedwith brass; _kumurbunds_ of plain white cloths: the poor ones have theirheads naked, or with bits of cloth wrapped round. 

They had no swords, but Hindoostany ones, and of these very few. 

Even their archery, Macgregor says is bad; one or two had spears, theChief's spear was provided with a very long head, and ornamented withcowrie shells at the top of the _haft_; two women came afterwards, theirnecks loaded with cowries and bits of bones, but otherwise well clothedwith the usual gowns, the outer one without sleeves and very wide armholes. They were decorated with very coarse, large, circular earrings. They approached the rest singing in chorus, not unmelodiously, but withvery little variation in notes. Then a whistle, general and loud fromthe whole party, representing their rejoicing over a slaughteredMussulman. 

On the whole these people present nothing peculiar as compared with otherhill people: like them they are vindictive, savage, poor, dirty, remarkable for great cupidity, fond of red cloth, beads, etc. They are amixed race, some are like Indians, some like Europeans, but in all theforehead is low, Tartar eyes, often light brown or grey, hair oftenlight. Put them among the Nagas, etc. Of the Assam frontier, and nonewould notice them. 

The Chief's son wore a black, narrow band round his head, ornamentedbehind with a few cowries and bone ornaments. 

They are independent, appear to delight in talking of their victoriesover the Mussulmans, but the oddest peculiarity as compared withAsiatics, is their shaking hands, which was certainly done with us in theEuropean custom. 

The limits of the firs, are as strict as those of Baloot, etc. , of thelatter it may be stated as between 3, 500 to 5, 600 feet, of the firsbetween 5, 500 and 8, 000; what makes me say this is, that at Katoor themountains are covered with heavy snow, and are naked above, but withheavy pine forest below, and then with forests of Baloot. 

_5th_. --Ascended the hills to about 200 feet above the limits of inferiorsnow, which may be estimated at about 4, 500 feet. 

These hills from 3, 500 feet and upwards, are well wooded, presenting nopeculiarity in the distribution of the woods, which are thin, or thickishonly in sheltered parts, down ravines, etc. But presenting a greatpeculiarity in the small variety of forms, for there are not more thanthree kinds of trees, and not more than a dozen shrubs: the trees areBaloot, which commence at the base, and ascend to the pines, say a heightof 4, 000 feet: Zaitoon, which commences at the base, and scarcely extendsbeyond 5, 000 feet, Xanthoxylon, which has a wider range than Zaitoon, iscomparatively rare. 

The inclination of these hills is steep, but the ascent is not moreextraordinarily difficult, they are covered with masses and blocks ofrock, which are plentifully clothed with lichens and mosses, but of smallvariety of species. The more open parts are covered with Andropogoneousgrasses; the lemon-grass occurs below. 

The shrubs and trees are as follows with their Pushtoo names--

Zanthoxylon, _Schneae khinfuch_, Quercus Baloot, _Ichairraye_. Olea, _Khoo-unn Zaitoon_. Amygdalus, _Budam_, _Junglee Tulk_. Nanus, _Naguhn_. Celtis, _Tanghuh_. Cyrtisoid of Bolan, _Wooraijoa_. Periploca, _Burrara_, _Banduk_. Cotoneaster of Tazeen, _Khurrowa_. Euonymus, _Churroghzye_. Dodonaea, _Wroolarskye_. Artemisia, _Tuhakar_. Rubus, _Khusuhurra_. 

The higher ridges are crowned with beautiful pines; the most common onthis side is called _Nukhtur_, and has not eatable seeds, its timber isin general use--and it is in much vogue for torches. 

The _Julghozeh_ also is met with, but rarely. Abundance of firewood. 

Ixioides very common, and now in flower, Amygdalus, _Budam_, also, thisis common, and a curious Irideous plant, allied to Crocus; one Arumlikewise occurs. Pigeons very wary, mostly of the green sort withwhitish wing-coverts; a pretty small-sized Jay occurs, with a jerkingbobtailed flight, a strong-billed Parus, of the climbing sub-genus, Chakors common. 

_March 6th_. --Rain almost all day. 

_7th_. --Unsettled weather continues. To-day the _kafirs_ came in withplants of a decided Himalayan nature, a beautiful Iris, the flowers ofwhich are of a deep indigo-blue, a Viburnum, Euonymus, Valeriana, Juniperus, Spiraeacea, Adiantum, Asplenium, Pteris, etc. 

How strangely intelligent all hill people are, and how they are urged byan insatiable love of money. I never expected any thing to be broughtin, judging of the _kafirs_ as I have learnt to do of Affghans andIndians, and here they have in one day, without even a lesson, brought inexcellent specimens, including mosses, etc. I went out to-day to the endof Meer Alum's territory, this boundary being about one and a quartermiles beyond Shingan. The valley up to this is beautifully cultivated, and begins to look green. Saw and shot another Myophonus, a Saxicola andan Alcedo, the common one of India; this species has strengtheningsplints, as it were on both mandibles: and the feet, etc. Have no scales, being very different from those of the generality of birds. 

Myophonus I take to be the large beautiful metallic-blue blackbird, withobscure and elegant white markings. I have observed common to all hillsI have seen, and is always found in damp wet places, this bird is verywary, and in carriage much like the English blackbird, on alighting fromits short flight, flirting its tail about, etc. This bird leads me toremark how widely the river chats are distributed. The beautiful white-crowned black and red species, and the grey, with a red tail, are foundabout all hill streams in the north-eastern parts of India; the latter isa curious bird, radiating its tail out constantly. Enicurus is alsowidely distributed. 

I also got to-day a beautiful male Lophophorus, the plumage of whichsurpasses description; it is a heavy bird, with brown irides, and abrownish-chesnut tail; it came from Daiwag. 

I met with five _kafirs_, when out to-day, only one would come to me; hewas a very tall man, with a savage face, light keen eyes, returning froma forage on the Safis: he was an _Arunsha_ man, and a _Tor kafir_, whoare represented as very different from the _Espheen_ or white ones, whoare found in the mountains adjacent to Balk, etc. Arunsha is three daysjourney from this, and has a lame, or one-_legged_ chief, _Dheemoo_; myfriend's name was _Bazaar_, he was armed with a matchlock taller thanhimself, and the usual dagger. How they compete with the Mussulmans Icannot imagine, as they can only fight in close quarters, and for whichthey have daggers about six inches long in the blade. 

The _Kafir_ names of the plants brought in are as follows:--

* _Praitsoo_, Hedera. _Akrumah_, Iris. * _Kreemapotak_, Melanthium. _Daisoo_, Urtica urens?* _Joh_, Laricoides. _Wheeree_, Ephedroides. * _Amarr_, Rhamnea. _Whishtur_, Juniperus. * _Traih_, Quercus. * _Unzoomal_, Spireaea. _Gutsuttur_, Viola. 

Of these, those marked with an asterisk have no affinity at all with theKhorassan Flora: nothing can show the change in the Flora of Katoorbetter than this, that two _kafirs_ bring in one day, without havingtheir attention directed to ferns, as many species as I have obtained inall that part of Khorassan I have visited, amounting to 1, 000 miles indifferent latitudes and at very various elevations. The following arethe kafir names for the corresponding words:--

_Darr_, Mountain. _Wussut_, Goat. _Trimm_, Snow. _Wemmi_, Doomba sheep. _Trosse_, Ice. _Sovurr_, Hog. _Wishin_, Rain. _Kookoor_, a Fowl. _Earr_, Clouds. _Melli_, Bread. _Populass_, Lightning. _Ow_, Water. _Doodoowunn_, Thunder. _Undah_, Meat. _Tsaih_, Sun. _Ornachoa_, Skin. _Mass_, Moon. _Haddi_, Bone. _Tarah_, Star. _Jeet_, Body. _Geutte_, Jungul. _Shai_, Head. _Julla_, Tree. _Ash_, Face. _Poutte_, Leaf. _Uchain_, Eyes. _Pushe_, Flower. _Jibb_, Tongue. _Bhee_, Seed. _Mass_, Nose. _Tat_, Father. _Dhermurr_, Neck. _Zfee_, Mother. _Kaitss_, Hair. _Porottr_, Boy, Son. _Deh_, Beard. _Jhoo_, Girl, Daughter. _Troh_, Chest. _Moochook_, a little Girl. _Booh_, Arm. _Ooruttur_, a large ditto. _Ungree_, Hand. _Birra_, Brother. _Sichupput_, Fingers. _Soose_, Sister. _Noach_, Nail. _Tsoon_, Dog. _Dust oungree_, Thumb. _Pishash_, Cat. _Koorr_, Leg. _Goh_, Cow. _Papoa_, Foot. _Ghora_, Horse. 

The mixture of Hindoostanee names is very curious indeed, particularlythose names of things which, from being indigenous, one would supposewould have indigenous names. 

_7th_. --Went up to Bharowl and returned to-day, March 9th, first went toLoongurze, the Barometer at which stood 24. 758. Therm. In sun 85degrees. Bharowl is a small plain, but still three or four times largerthan Loongurze, and perhaps 100 feet below it: this place is up theravine leading to the fourth peak of the west side, which same peak mustbe between 9, 000 to 10, 000 feet high. Loongurze is visible from this, and is more to the south. 

The villages consist of several houses forming a sort of wall; outside, the houses are of one story, with terraced roof, supported by timbers, they are built of stones, slabs of micaceous slate, which is theprevailing rock, and timbers interposed as ties; the rooms are very dark, and very dirty, with no outlet for the smoke. The only part of thefurniture worth noticing consists of an inverted conical basket, made outof the stems of some large grass, coated with mud, and truncated at thetop, used to keep grain in. The under, or ground floor appears to beused for the domestic animals which are cows, goats, fowls, etc. Theinhabitants of Bharowl, _Bhawiolis_, are a _kafir_ race with a Mussulmancast of countenance, but fair, of an unhealthy look, with in many caseslight hair, and generally light eyes, they are a rather large tribe, andappear to have but few wants, are very poor, and very dirty; the betterpart of the men are clothed in Cashgar, _chargas_, and ordinary cottonunder-garments; the women dress in blue. Both villages are on the limitof inferior snow at this season; there is enough of cultivation about tosupply their wants, chiefly wheat and barley, and a sort of pea. Loongurze is infested with a villainous midge, of the same genus as thatof the Naga Hills, but few are to be found at Bharowl. 

At Loongurze I met a Khungurlye slave, of the caste Krungurlye, the head-quarters of which are at a mountain village, about eight _cos_ off, in anorth-west direction. The chief of Koorungul is Ahmed Khan, he isindependent: his village having 400 men, well armed. 

The man wore a goat skin jacket without sleeves, a skull cap of camelhair netted, and leggings to the ancle of the same, to keep off themidges; these leggings are likewise used at Bharowl for the same purpose. The following is a specimen of the Krungurlye dialect. 

_Baba_, Father. _Wurrik_, Water. _Aiee_, Mother. _Soourr_, Hog. _Lohideck_, Brother. _Kookoor_, Fowl. _Trizzai_, Sister. _Ow_, Bread. _Khleck_, Woman. _Trull_, Jungul. _Gillor_, Horse. _Psan-sa_, Cat. 

The Krungurlies are said to have been _kafirs_, converted long ago. Theyare now quite Mussulman in appearance. They were doubtless originally amixture of European and Tartar races driven by persecution to the hills, to which they are still perhaps restricted by the cause which led totheir original isolation. 

I tried to ascend the ridge, but the snow was impracticable even within700 feet of the village. The _Nakhtur_, or Pinus, which is theprevailing feature above Bharowl, is the same as the Tazeen one, and is aCedrus or _Abils_, leaves very short, cones erect and elegant, but onlybroken ones could be found. The ridge and its face is quite covered withthem, they grow singly. Huge masses of micaceous rocks are scatteredhere and there, some are of gigantic size. 

The Baloot is the next most common tree, but I fancy it does not extendbeyond 7, 500 feet; this is in general use for firewood, many of thetrees, especially below, are much damaged, and on these the leaves aregenerally very thorny. Next is the Zaitoon, but it is not common in thisdirection, although common a mile to the south on the ridge firstascended. The soil is now saturated with snow water, and appears goodand plentiful. The want of soil is another reason why the lower rangesare so barren, but this is just the contrary of what would be expected. 

In spite of the beauty and fineness of these forests, there is still theKhorassan paucity of forms. Many herbaceous plants are doubtless hidunder the snow, but few shrubs were to be seen: the Mespilus of Tazeenbeing the most common at 6, 000 to 7, 000 feet, a Thymus, Labiata, Oleafragrans, Ocymoidea, two or three Crucifera; Sedum pictum observed, andMelanthaceae which has fragrant flowers, is very common. The rocks arecovered with mosses, Grimmia pulvinaloides, every where in profusion. Newforms consist of a fine Tortula and an Anictangioid, with leaves white, and membranous from the middle upwards. 

Birds, a black and white Erythaca, eyes fuscous-brown; the wood pigeon; ajay, which is a beautiful bird, irides light brown; a small woodpecker, with a greenish subcrest; the _Parus_; a thrush not obtained; Paruscaerulens; a pretty red-crowned small Fringilla, eyes light brown; commoncrow, chakor, bearded vulture; a wren, not obtained, with irides lightbrown, but with exactly the manners of Troglodytis. Chamaerops, _Maizurrye_ used for netting ropes for bedsteads, Viscum of Baloot, usedfor food of domestic animals. 

Wild goats, sheep, an ass-like animal (_Goomasht_), and a fox which ishandsome, of large size, and common. 

_8th_. --Returned. 

The _Kafirs_ have a game exactly the same as the English leap-frog, called by them _Shutruck_. They were very much astonished at myunderstanding it. They are miserable marksmen, and were even at smalldistances unable to strike a large object, as for instance a hat attwenty yards, although offered a handsome reward; nor can they shoot atall at long distances. They are in this respect quite below Khasyas andBooteas. 

[Ridge near Loongurze: m466. Jpg]

_March 9th_. --Yesterday evening a female of Lophophorus, was broughtin, and a beautiful pheasant, having claret-coloured neck. Bodyotherwise fuscous and blackish-brown, having a blackish-green head, whitecheeks and fine transverse crest, as large as a middle-sized fowl. Apparently a new subgenus of Phasianus. 

_11th_. --Swallows have now come in here. They are apparently a differentspecies from the Pushut kind. 

_12th_. --The large-headed lark has also come in, so that there is adifference of twelve or fourteen days between this part of the countryand Pushut, where it was first seen, although this is only 500 feethigher, and about thirteen miles farther north. 

The universality of the common crow is curious, especially whencontrasted with the circumscribed locality of Jackdaws. The IndianJackdaw is never found in hills. 

A common plover was brought in yesterday, the wing quills had been takenout, and its gestures on being liberated were most absurd, and althoughoriginating from fright, were much allied to pride, its head reclining onits neck, the latter curved, and the feet lifted high into a statelywalk, while the crest was disposed in a most supercilious manner. 

I have got into great request here as a physician, entirely I apprehendowing to the people's faith in _vilayuti daroo_, or English medicine, especially calomel and cream of tartar, a combination of which has provedan universal panacea. 

Goitre is common here, and the place in the hot months is said to be veryunhealthy, fever and jaundice carry off numbers of people. The Affghans, strange to say, have no popular medicines, but they are an unintelligentrace in many other points. They are aware of bloodletting, which theypractise most indiscriminately. 

_13th_. --Unsettled weather. Heavy thunderstorm in the evening withclouds over the western range. 

_14th_. --Beautifully clear, a genuine spring beauty on all sides. 

The common _Maina_ of these parts is a gregarious bird, which feedsgenerally on the ground, but is rarely associated with cattle, to whichthe Indian species are so addicted: this is an intelligent bird, althoughfrom its nature not unnecessarily shy. 

It is fond of singing; its notes are very varied, but not very musical, including all sorts of intonations. 

While so employed, the bird every now and then bobs his head suddenlydown three or four times, much for the same purpose perhaps, as ourpublic singers in the production of certain notes. I do not know whetherthese actions of the bird are really associated with particular notes, although they generally seem to accompany certain very flat and very basenotes, not unlike the clerk of a coachman. 

The snow is rapidly disappearing, rain having a most powerful effect evenat the summit of the pine ridges: it is fast melting, and no new snow hasfallen, although it has been raining occasionally during the last threedays, and the sun has been altogether obscured. 

Generally on the high Kuttoor range, fresh snow has fallen, a proof ofthe great height of that range. 

Two species of Corydalis, the first Iris and Colchicum I had found inKaffiristan. Corydalis is another analogy with the genuine HimalayanFlora. 

Jackals were heard here for the first time, although they were heard manydays ago at Pushut. 

_15th_. --The antilopoid animal called Suja, has horns both on the maleand female, it occurs in small herds fifteen to twenty in the woodedmountains, its hair is of the same structure as in the Moschiferusantilope; colour brown. Height to the shoulder two feet six inches; itsheight does not increase or decrease perceptibly behind; length of neckseven inches. Length of back from root of tail to nape of neck two feeteight inches. 

The Lophophorus is called _Moorghi Zureem_, it is a very gorgeouslycoloured bird, but of heavy make; the tail is always carried erect. Length of body two feet one inch; the girth of the body at the shoulderincluding wings, seventeen to eighteen inches. Length of neck fromcommencement of the crest to the base of the under mandible, five to sixinches. 

The bird is not uncommon, being found on all the hills about here, andapparently at no great elevations. 

_16th_. --The _Ungoor_, Ficus cordifolia is the first tree that buds. ThePlatanus, _Thagur_; Morus coming into flower, vegetation being veryrapid. 

A captive fox brought in, a fine and a handsome animal, with greyish furinclining to fuscous on the back, and with blackish points at the back ofears, which are large, and dark-brown; eyes light yellowish-brown. 

Measured as follows from:--

Shoulder to base of tail, 1 feet 3 inches. Shoulder to tip of nose, 1 feet 0 inches. Height at shoulder, 1 feet 4 inches. Height at loins, 1 feet 6. 5 inches. Total length, 3 feet 8 inches. Length of tail, 1 feet 7 inches. 

There is also a nocturnal beast here which has a voice something like ajackal, but more of a bark. Shot one of the small grey, white-rumpedwater robins, which was examining a wall for insects, and flutteringabout the holes in it. I saw two Carbos (cormorants), distinct from anyI had hitherto seen, very black, with some white marks. The common blackone also occurs. 

_17th_. --Proceeded to Chugur Pair; the time occupied by the journey, excluding stoppages, was two hours and four minutes, at the rate of threeand a quarter miles an hour. 

Tulipa in abundance in fields, a beautiful species, external sepals rosyoutside, odour faint but sweet. 

On a ridge near Chugur Pair is a curious ruin, viz. A long wall. 

The mountain is too high to enable me to say what it is like. The tuliphas a tendency to produce double flowers: one specimen seen with aregular three-leaved perianth, eight stamina, and four carpellary ovary, angles opposite the outer perianth leaves; the upper leaf or bract has atendency to become petaloid. If the anthers are pulled, the filamentsare separated from them and remain as subulate white pointed processes. 

_19th_. --Labiata, Ocymoidea, Salvia! erect, ramose, foliis rugosis, verticillatis; spicatis racemosis. _Cal_. Bilabiata supra planisculis, medio carinatus, _Cor_. Pallida, caerulea, bilabiata, labio superiorasubfornicata: lateralibus subrevolutis. See Catalogue No. 52, in fieldsChugur Pair, common on grassy banks. 

A curious tendency is observed in Pomaceae, Ceraseae to have the staminaof the same colour as the petals, thereby _showing their origin_? Howis it explained that in some transformations of this, the anthers aloneare petaliformed, while in others both filament and anther are equallyand primarily affected. 

The female Lophophorus has been living on nothing for at least a week;its voice is various, sometimes not unlike that of a large hawk, atothers a cackle, or low chuckle; occasionally it runs forward, erectingits crest, and spreading out its tail like a fan, the _tail being__depressed_. I fancy it roosts in trees not unlike certain pigeons, Haematornis one species come in, this genus I think represents Parus: ithas the same fluttering clinging habits, it often sallies forth likeMerops after insects, the genus is remarkable for the yellow or redcolour of the under tail-covers, it is a noisy bird, and not wary untilso taught by experience. I doubt its power of singing. The so calledBulbul, _hazari dastar_, the famous songster, is not a real _bulbul_, but either Alaudina or a stonechat. 

With Haematornis has appeared a fine Merops, of which I have not yet gota specimen; its habits were quite those of Merops, and it made the samenoise: it occurred with Haematornis. 

Chugur is a large extent of ruins, traces of paths are visible leading tothe houses, mere huts built of slabs of slate. There is one square partremaining much like the base of one of the topes to which it assimilates;the building, is of slabs of wood and stone, intervening. What couldhave induced the Mussulmans to build on such horridly hard barren and hotplaces, with no water near? or did they occupy places taken from the_Kafirs_. The latter I should think most likely from the names, whichare evidently _Kafir_. 

_20th_. --The bird alluded to yesterday, was again seen to-day. Iremember shooting the same species at elevations of 8, 000 feet in Bootan, in oak forests. It has the habits of Merops, with its voice or chirp, and is very gregarious, so that one part of the flock will not separatefrom the rest. It perches in a very erect manner making swoops andsallies after insects precisely as Merops. Plumage sombre, generalcolour slaty, quills and crest blackish, bill and feet orange, tailforked. 

Is this bird of the sub-family Brachypodinae, or is it a Fissirostralbird; the wings, although graduated as to the two first quills (the firstbeing half spurious) are still long, and may be called pointed. Itobviously has much analogy? with the Drongo shrikes in habits, and inforked tail: as well as in lengthened body? Both it and Haematornes arevery local, none being found here but just around a village calledPillipote, a favourite station--Zaitoon trees, or naked Bakkeins. Haematornis I have seen feeding on the ground, this species has the samevoice as that of the genus generally. 

The yellowish _Bunting-like_ water-wagtail, is very common just now: itoccurs in wheat fields; flight, chirp, and mode of getting up whendisturbed just as in the Buntings. 

Weather very unsettled, heavy rain and thunder last night, and nowthreatening a gale. 

_21st_. --Returned towards Pushut: a Lanius, but not the one shot, wasseen near the road in bushes. 

_22nd_. --Of the four red-billed Shrikes, two are male and female, sexesalike, stomach fleshy like that of Haematornis, but food entirelyvegetable: the two female stomachs contained each a seed of the _Bukkein_(Melia): the two males contained fragments of buds, perhaps of a willow, but not a vestige of an insect, so their swooping and sallying is a mereanalogical representation of Merops. In Haematornis contents of stomachchiefly vegetable, partly of insects. 

_26th_. --Very rainy and unsettled weather, thunder and lightning. 

_27th_. ---Clearing up: heavy rain in some parts of the night, otherwisefine. 

_28th_. --A beautiful morning. Went to Kooner, distance twelve tothirteen miles: for three miles the road was dangerous but tolerablydecent, no defiles being passed, in which murderers were likely to lurk, very little difference in seasons between this and Pushut. 

_29th_. --Returned again to Pushut. The country about Pushut is one sheetof cultivation, studded with trees; so thick are these that few villagesare discernible in consequence. Nothing particularly notable occurred, except that a tulip is common in the fields about Kooner, but not foundin those about Pushut: it occurs also with Amaryllideae, which islikewise a stranger to Pushut. What is the reason of the ruined forts socommon in this country? One would think that it were useless to pulldown or destroy a good fort, when it is the intention of buildinganother, so that they are scarcely to be accounted for from a successionof conquerors. 

The country has, and always will be, a distracted one. I observe that inall parts approaching mountains, in which the chief danger of robberyexists, that there are generally people and especially boys tendingcattle, so that they must probably be familiar with robberies andmurders, and seeing these done so openly, so easily, and so securely, they may well be imagined to become ready scholars. So even if the stockalready existing in the robbers' sons, etc. , were deficient, others wouldbe found ready to take up the profession. The Kooner Dhurrah, or valley, is a very fine one, it is a good instance of the peculiar kind of slopeor _talus_, so common in this country. The soil in such places being sostony as to be useless for cultivation. Low parts entering into thevalley become useful for wheat, that is, if rain falls early, theseDhurrahs are formed or filled by debris from the surrounding hills, carried down by torrents, which are constantly changing their beds, theoutline of the edge is circular, such as that of a sand bank at the mouthof a river, the finer particles being of course carried furthest down. 

The Kooner valley may be considered as the second; the Shaiwa distinctforming the first; it continues as far as the bend to Chugur Pair; itsbeginning is close to Kooner village, near the ferry where the valley ismuch contracted. 

_31st_. --The beautiful Smyrna kingfisher of India, with metallic plumage, chocolate-brown underneath, occurs at Kooner. 

The common kite is very expert in seizing objects with its claws whileflying: as is the Pondicherry falcon. They are often seen about standingwater, fishing I fancy with their claws for shells, etc. On the surface. 

The late rain has caused a torrent down Dhurrah Bader, and the fields andlow grounds about Choke have been inundated; about these spots, birdshave collected in numbers, the common crow taking advantage of thecircumstance had turned as it were, kingfisher, swooping about like thekite. There were two species of Laridae, neither of which I had seenbefore, several small Tringae, the very long red shanked bird, Hematopus?the metallic Tantalus, common, jack-snipe, and hosts of Budytes, whichwere busily employed flying and flitting about after insects. Edoliusoccurs at Kooner as well as here. The number of birds is smallcertainly, although the trees, etc. Are now in full leaf: no new birdsseem to have come in, except the dove, and Edolius; neither Haematornisnor Brachypus yet observed, one or two fresh species of Alaudina, andstonechats have made their appearance. It is curious that the larks donot remain above a few days, none are to be seen now, that the crops arebarely a foot high. 

The female Monaul is going on well, though obliged to be crammed, forthough it takes water voluntarily it will not take food. It is a verydomestic bird, and fond of notice, its voice on such occasions ispleasing, on some others very harsh and hawk or eagle-like. Its mannersare curious, depressing its tail, and arching its neck, and pecking atimaginary objects in a curious way. From the expressive manner in whichit looks up at sunset on surrounding objects, especially trees, it isobviously accustomed to roost. 

_April 1st_. --Pushut Fort. 

_4th_. --Weather unsettled: a slight rumbling sound of an earthquake wasfelt yesterday evening, the atmosphere at the time being very close: thiswas succeeded by a squall. Strong winds are prevalent, generallyeasterly: clear sunshine is evidently of rare continuance at Pushut:little snow remains except towards Bharawul. 

I was much struck this morning with the entire disappearance of a greenmantle of Confervoid scum from the surface of a foul pool close to myquarters. Yesterday the pool was quite green, now there is no green, norany traces of the scum except such portion as was not in the water butround the margins. 

_6th_. --Proceeded to Chugur-Serai, which place was reached after marching3 h. 10 m. At three miles an hour. Ocharrye one of the peaks near thisis deep in snow; it is much higher than Speencas. The season here is nownearly as forward as it is at Kooner, although on my last visit sixteendays ago, it was fifteen days behind, but the narrowness of the valleymust increase the heat much. 

Great delay occurred in crossing the Pushut river, which is much swollenfrom the heavy rain on the 4th. Thunder and hailstone common, clear daysdecidedly rare in the spring of these parts. 

Edolius occurs here, another stonechat has come in. 

_7th_. --Proceeded to Otipore, which took 8 h. 9 m. To perform thejourney; very unsettled weather. Yesterday several thunderstorms, andheavy rain. 

_10th_. --Clearing up, went to Bharawul; and returned on the 12th. I wasmuch disappointed at the paucity of forms, for I did not get ten species, not met with before. The flora of the fir woods amounts to almostnothing, Colchicum straggles up now and then, this and a grass or Carex, a Caprifoliaceous shrub, and Cotoneaster of Tazeen, and Fragaria are theonly forms. The oak as it gets to higher altitudes assumes a differentform, probably it is a different species, for the leaves are much lesscoriaceous, and are not glaucous underneath, otherwise there is littledifference between it and the common Baloot, the chief plants foundoccurred in the clearings, which surround Bharawul to some extent. Alliaria is very common; also Tulipa. In this variety the dehiscence ofthe anthers continues until, from a single simple pore, a line reachingnearly the whole length of the anther is formed: a very pretty and sweetsmelling Anemone common, Viola, Rumex, Thalictrum a rather fine species, Hedera, Rubia cordifolia, Valeriana, Corydalis, Fragaria, Thlaspidea, Sambucus, Ebulus adonis, Berberis, Equisetum, Clematis, Urtica urens, were noticed, either in cultivation or on the edge of the clearings. Pooras the flora is, I see no chance of its promising much variety, for Iobserve few other plants showing themselves: several ferns were met within moist places, and under rocks, two Asplenia, one undetermined;Aspidioides very common in some places, but of last year. 

The soil is deepish and good, when wet it is subtenacious. The _Nukhtur_is a large tree, seventy to eighty feet high; one of an average sizemeasured fourteen feet in girth, four feet from the base. The slopes ofthe mountain are steep, and the ravines very rocky: on the ridges betweenthese, the ground is covered with soil. Colchicum observed as high as7, 500 feet. I returned another way, keeping along the large ravine thatdrains the mountain to the north, and which falls into the Otipore river, below Shinegam. 

Buddlea was noticed at 5, 800 feet, Hyacinthus throughout from this toBharawul; _Nurgiss_ 5, 800 feet, Impatiens the same as the species below5, 000, Myrsinea ditto, Fraxinus is very common about 4, 000 feet, it isvery easily mistaken for the Xanthoxylon, which appears common over mostparts of Khorassan. The range of the Cytisus, which is a beautiful sweetsmelling shrub, is extensive, it may be included here between 3, 000 and7, 000 feet: associated with it between 4, 000 to 4, 500 feet is a Caragana, and about this occurs a fine Salveoideo-Dracocephalum. 

The limit of the Baloot may be taken at 4, 000 feet, but in shelteredravines it descends lower. 

Euonymus _Moamunna_, Periplocea, scarcely extend above 4, 000 feet, neither do the spirescent Astragali, these are succeeded by two or threeespinous species, one the same as the Astragalus stipulis magnis of theriver towards Pironi. Amygdalus ranges between 3, 500 and 7, 000 feet, thepretty Cerasus does not extend above 4, 000 feet. There appears to beanother Amygdalus above. 

The chief vegetation of the mountain below 6, 000 feet appears to be atufted coarse Andropogoneous grass, and in such situations as thisoccupies, little soil is to be found; the Baloot, and Zaitoon, areconfined to sheltered places. Above they occur indiscriminately on allfaces, but Zaitoon is rare at such elevations; few birds were observed, the most common about Bharawul are an Emberizoid and a Certhia? Muscicapaflammea was seen at 7, 000 feet in pine forests with several Sittae: inthese forests and about Bharawul, only one Garrulus was heard, and fewwoodpigeons were seen. The Picus is still common, Myophorus now extendsup to Bharawul. Parus caeruleus still continues. Another femaleNemorrhaedus is brought in with young: the breeding time probably takesplace two months later. The Merula before found below, now occurs inflocks about Bharawul. 

According to the natives there is only about twenty days difference inthe seasons of cutting wheat and barley; this is probably not true, yetit is borne out by the Tulip, Cytisus and Hyacinth. 

The village has been founded five years since, and contains 180 souls. The burial ground contains sixteen graves, which will give the annualpercentage of mortality. At Otipore the mortality is said to be great. Whence do these people get their curious grey eyes, and light hair?

Daphne extends to Bharawul. 

_14th_. --The kingcrow is now in here, also Columba, and Lanius; this lasthas an unceasing jarring chirp, it has however considerable powers ofvoice. 

Sitta feeds on seeds as well as on insects, but the structure of itsstomach is insectivorous. 

The female Monaul died yesterday. I heard some of these birds in thepine forests of Bharawul, their voice being very loud and grating; thefemale was a good tempered bird, capable of attachment, when caressed itsnotes were pleasing. 

_15th_. --The Hoopoe seen; another fish brought in to-day, the usualmountainous form, but with a very rough nose. 

The Edolius is here the earliest and the latest daily bird. I observedseveral to-day on a tree making a great noise with their harsh chirp, ateach chirp the tail was for the instant jerked out like a fan. 

_17th_. --A single parrot seen flying overhead. 

_19th_. --What is the bodily strength of man to that of insects! I havejust been watching an ant dragging the body of a hornet, many timeslarger than itself, up a door with the greatest ease; so much so, thatafter dragging it up three feet, it came down to alter its position, carrying it up a second time by its wing: the ant was of a large species. 

_23rd_. --Pastor came in to-day, an elegant bird, eyes nearly white, tinged with grey; legs and beak yellow, base of gape leaden-blue, junction of yellow and blue parts greenish!

_26th_. --Mango bird first seen today, another dove came in about the23rd. Quail coming in, Pastor roseus. 

Every plant from the Kafir hills convinces me that they are Himalayan intheir features, and that about this the transition between the Americanand genuine European forms takes place. Thus I have seen Asperula, twoand three European looking Ranunculi. 

Cratoegus, etc. In addition to the other forms, before alluded to. 

There is a rather fine _sissoo_ near Sheargar, it is curious that it islater in coming into leaf than any other tree. Does this indicate itsbeing of a more tropical nature than the others? on the contrary, theBukkeim is now in flower, also Citrus. 

The Affghans are fond of Amaryllideae, _Gratool_, _Goolab_, and Lonicera, in the season of the two former, every one met has a bunch placed overeach ear. 

Observed to-day a curious monstrosity of the ovula of the Lonicera ofthis place, from which it is evident, that the ovule represents a bud;the funicle the _stalk_; the teguments convolute leaves, and the nucleusthe punctum of growth. 

Every variation was observed, generally the more leafy the outer tegumentthe greater was the degree of straightness of the funicle, and theabortion of the nucleus. 

_29th_. --To Chugur-Serai. 

_June 5th_. --Arrived at Cabul. 

The whole country between Khuggur and Koord Cabul, even including thehigh ground of this, or Huft-Kotul, presents the same formation, but fromKhuggur it rises gradually, and beyond Gundamuck loses all characters oftabularity, it consists of sand, overlying which is a bed of blocks oroften of boulders; in this sand, which is here and there easilypulverised, (in other places it is pressed as it were into slabs of nogreat thickness;) layers or beds of conglomerate frequently occur, eitherregularly or irregularly; in one case two conglomerated beds approachedat an angle and then united. 

The framework or base of the country is generally limestone, sometimesslate which presents every variety of distortion, the strata being oftenvertical and wavy, no dykes were observed. The older rocks are generallycompletely covered by sand and shingle, or stones; but as we approach theboundaries of the valleys, they protrude into ridges, often ofconsiderable size and height. The valleys however are not entirelybounded by these to the west, for as I have said, the plain of KoordCabul is reached by crossing undulations of this same formation. FromKhuggur to Gundamuck, about five stony steppes are crossed, each risingin height above the last, and each separated by deep ravines, with one orboth banks generally precipitous, affording exit to streamlets from theSofaid-Koh. It is curious that the streamlets, and streams aboutGundamuck have not worn themselves half as deep channels as those aboutKhuggur, although no appreciable difference is apparent in the strata. 

The surface is often rendered rugged in places by the occurrence of looseslabs, which give the appearance of stratification to the rocks. 

It appears to me that the whole of the extreme eastern Khorassanoriginally was a bed of stones or boulders, overlying a formation of puresand, and that its irregular surface is due to the subsequent upheavementof the foundation ridges. The good soil is in such case necessarilyconfined to the immediate neighbourhood of the streams, etc. Descendingfrom those ridges. 

The following is a section exposed on the north boundary of the valley, not far from Jugdulluck:--

[Section of valley near Jugdulluck: m476. Jpg]

The whole tract is devoid of trees, until one nears Jugdulluck, when notonly the foundation rocks, but also the stony undulated hills are dottedwith stunted trees of Baloot and Xanthoxylon. Tufted Andropogoneousgrasses form the prevailing feature, AErua also is common along thestreams: and wherever the ground retains moisture, Typha latifoliaabounds with the usual frequenters of watery spots. The road toGundamuck, especially the ascent of the two last steppes, is infamous;but the regular Jallalabad road is good, having only one descent toNeemla, and an easy ascent from that place, and thence it is over agentle declivity to Futtehabad. 

The spurs from the Sofaid-Koh are very numerous, and the ravines theyform show the great quantity of water derived from this ridge, theirdirection is N. 45, E. The direction of the streams after emerging fromthe lower ridges continues about the same. 

The Cabul and Soorkhab rivers debouche at a much greater angle. Theirdirection being 95, E. The waters of both are turbid, but those of thelatter are reddish. 

Throughout the valley of Jallalabad cultivation extends alone along thestreams, many of which are entirely consumed by agricultural processes;in no place does it bear any proportion to the uncultivated portion, which is invariably densely strewed with stones, the smaller of which aregenerally water-worn; the larger, masses of angular rock. 

White mulberries ripen in perfection at Gundamuck in the early part ofJuly. There is more cultivation about Khuggur occurring in a continuousand broadish tract, than in almost any other place. 

I observed a curious tendency to anastomosis, or self-grafting in theroots of Morus: this in its young state often has pinnatifid artacarpoidleaves. Query, is this a sign of the greater development of Morus? or isit in any way analogous to that progressive development existing duringthe growth of every animated being?

At Gundamuck observed Oriolus; it differs in plumage and voice from theIndian Mango bird, which is a far more beautiful bird, with only onenote: Edolius also seen. 

Pastor and the other common birds. Merops was seen soaring over stones, and stooping at insects; in such situations it remains long on the wing;it does not appear to perch on any thing but withered branches. 

Composita Senecionoides occurs about Soorkhab, Reaumuria occurs half-waybetween it and Gundamuck. Capparis continues to Soorkhab. Staticescommon, also Campanula; and about Jugdulluck a striking Boragineousplant, Boraginiae sp. , and on the sandy pass above Barkhab, a Salvia isfound in profusion, one of the commonest grasses is Poa _cynosuroides_?

The stem of Hippuris is worth examination, inasmuch as it consists of acentral easily separable axis, and a vertical system of great thickness, highly cellular, so that judging _a priori_, as these cells (which arecompound) occupy the whole space between the ligneous system and thecutis, no longitudinal vessels can exist in that part which representsthe bark. 

_15th_. --Cabul. Glycyrrhiza thermopsoides frequently presents on the non-flowering stems, a pod-like transformation of the uppermost leaves. 

In Centaurea _cyanea_, the disposition of the limb of the ray is suchthat the incomplete part or the fissure is outside. This is exactlyopposite to the disposition of the same part in true Ligulatae. 

Judging from Centaurea, the smaller lip of the bilabiate species ofCompositae ought to be situated outside. 

Erythraeoides, Glauca floribus albidis occurs on the _Chummums_. 

_16th_. --Regaled with a library: "Calumny and detraction, " saysBoerhaave, "are sparks, which if you do not blow them, will go out ofthemselves. "--_Murphy's Johnston_, Vol. IX. P. 34. 

In Johnston's Life of Drake, p. 99 to 100, are some admirable remarks onthose minds, that disapprove of every strikingly novel scheme, and fromwhich a good motto might be chosen, should any national system beproposed in Botany. 

What were Sir Thomas Browne's five sorts of vegetables, and what were hisremarks on the form of plants and laws of vegetation?--_See Johnston's__Works_, Vol. IX. P. 296. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

_From Cabul to Kohi-Baba_. 

_July 17th_. --Proceeded from Cabul to Shah Bagh; cloudy weather, occasionally a very slight shower during the last few days, dependingprobably on the Punjab rains. To-day, observed a small greencaterpillar, climbing up a fine thread, like a spider's web, which hungfrom the fly of the tent; its motions were precisely those of climbing, the thread over which it had passed was accumulated between its thirdpairs of legs; it did not use its mouth. 

I did not ascertain whether the thread was its own production or not; ifit was, it must have come out of its tail. 

_24th_. --The fish in the Cabul river here are, a Loach, an Oreinus, and aBarbel; none of these grow to any size, as there is but little water leftin the river in consequence of the drain for extensive cultivation onboth the east and west sides of the city. 

Small specimens of these fish, especially the Loach and Oreinus, arefound in the canals or larger watercuts, in which the current is slow andregular. It is curious that in the canal near the Shah Bagh, which hasbeen lately turned off above the Cantonment, all the specimens of theLoach left in the pools of water were dead, while the Oreinus did notappear to have suffered. 

This Loach is a Cobitis propria, it has the usual form of that genus, thespots are disposed irregularly, rarely becoming banded. The shape of thehead is curious, the forehead being prominent, this gives the mouth anappearance of unusual depression. {479}

The country both on the east and west sides of Cabul may have beenformerly a lake. Such indeed would seem to have been the origin of allthe valleys in which there is an expanse of tillable ground, and not merestrips confined to the banks of the draining streams. 

The eastern valley is indeed partly occupied by the large sheet of waterto the north, and the west is very marshy. The eastern one isinterspersed with low detached ranges of hills. 

The birds are a magpie, a dove, Oriolus, Pastor roseus, Pastor alter, sparrow, water-wagtail, Hirundo, Hoopoe, Lanius, Sylvia sp. , water-hen, wild ducks on the lake, and Merops; almost all these as at Khujgal, butno _minas_, or Edolia. 

At Urghundy occurs Potentilla quinquifolia, repens radicans pubescens, stipulis oblongis. 

_28th_. --Halted at Koti-Ashruf. The most common plants on the Khak-i-Sofaid pass are two or three of the small pulvinate Statices, Senecionoides glaucescens. The yellow Asphodelus is very common, and Ialso saw A. Mesembryanthemifolia. At the foot of the pass, I sawScabiosa, which also occurred on the summit. 

First march on the Cabul side of Ghuznee. Whole tracts blue with theLabiata Plectranthoides; at Urghundy, along a watercut, are plantedseveral willows of the common large-leaved kind, the bark of these on allthe older parts is cracked longitudinally, and the trunk has theappearance of being twisted, which I have no doubt is the natural state, the spire is from left to right. The prevailing winds are easterly. 

Bean cultivation is very common in the valley of the Cabul river to thewest beyond the Khak-i-Sofaid pass; I suspect it requires a greateraltitude than most of the other cultivated plants of Affghanistan, itabounds in the high ground about Shaikhabad. 

_29th_. --Proceeded in the morning from Julraize to Sir-i-Chushme. Thefish of the place are the same, the Silurus being common. The two sortsof Oreinus vary much in the length of the intestinal canal, --theyellowish and large one having it five times: the small and lessyellowish, three and a half lengths of the body. Both these species comeclose to Barbus, showing that the spinosity of the dorsal fin is a morevaluable character than that of the form of the mouth. 

The cartilaginous disc of Oreinus is a reflection outwards of the osseo-cartilaginous part of the mouth, the fleshy part alone is the lips. Oriolus, Upupa, and Percnopterus, continue with Columba. Grapes andapricots _khar see_, and the common ones reach as far as this, but arevery inferior to those of Cabul; rice cultivated here and there. Thechief trees are Populus lombardensis, Salix magnifolia, and S. Pendula, Hippophae. 

At Koti-Ashruf Salix angustissima is found, and on it Cuscuta gigantea;on to-day's march Hippophae, but this is found also at Maidan: Merops washeard at Koti-Ashruf. In the spring of Sir-i-Chushme, a Typhoid plantoccurs in profusion, Veronicae 2, alta et repens rotundifolia, Nasturtiumaquatica, Scrophularia of Julraize, Juncus, Triglochin, and Plantago ofthe green sward, everywhere between 6, 000 and 11, 000 feet. 

Trees end at the foot of Oonnye. 

_30th_. --Girdun Dewar. Salvia swarms up the ascent and on the descent, but less so than before, and on the Yonutt platform it is almost absent;Cnicus also in profusion both up and down, and on the platform Festucatriticoides begins about half-way up; Statice are common over the wholepass. Caragana in the grassy swardy ravines. On the highest pointAstragalus arbuscula, the fields studded with yellow buttons of tansy, and white flowers of Stellaria; Arabidea glauca siliculosa, also common;this is rare on the west side of Hindoo-koosh, as is also Stellaria. Tansy continues in some places. 

_31st_. --To Kurzar. Proceeded up the Siah-Sung; along the river, greensward with patches of Caragana, Campanula, and Geraniums occurred inprofusion in some places. Salvia not uncommon; at the first part, orperhaps for three miles from camp a large Hingoid is common, smaller andwhiter than the species so common on the lower hills, and which is thelarge-leaved species of Quettah and the Kojhuk pass. Potamogetoncylindrifolia common; Senecionoides. 

On the stony part, or beyond Siah-Sung, when one leaves the bed of theriver, Astragali two or three species, Salvia, and Blitum. Two sorts offish are found in the river, and perhaps a third in the blackhammer-headed Silurus. {481} Of the two caught, one is an Oreinus, butpassing close into Barbus. Beneath the glandular line, white, abovefuscous-brownish, with irregular black spots, fins fusco-reddish. 

The other is a loach, Cobitis propria, shape shark-like, colour yellowish-brown, almost tawny, sides irregularly spotted with brownish-black spots, arranged on the back in broad irregular, generally complete bands. Headnot banded, fins tawny, with oblong black spots, eyes prominent, iridesreddish-orange: this is a very abundant species. 

Poplar trees, (P. Lombardensis): these from being planted close, growtogether, the union generally taking place near the base. I have notseen a section of the wood. 

_August 2nd_. --Kaloo. So far as I can judge, the flora of this side ofthe pass does not differ, but in a few unimportant instances from that ofthe Kurzar side. The summit however has a much colder climate, probablyfrom being exposed on the Kurzar side to an extremely cold and piercingwind from the Kohi-Baba range. Cnici 2, and Festuca triticoides are themost common plants, with Arenaria fruticosa, Composita No. 152, Asphodelus of Erak now nearly passed flower, and some Astragali. But onthis side, Cnici cease almost entirely, although they re-appear lowerdown, but only partially, and the top of the pass is covered with theStatice of Kurzar, and Astragali, among which, that with the flat pod, winged on the dorsal suture, is the most common. Lower down the same, orsimilar features continue, and the only plants limited to this side are acurious Astragalus, Crotalarioid, Polygonum fruticosa, microphyllum, andspinosum, a Boraginea like that of Jugdulluck, but much smaller anddecumbent, a Papaveraceae, petalis Papaveris Rhoeadis, with a siliquosefruit, and Clematis erecta: willow trees (the broad leaved species) occurhere, a large Agrostic grass, Ribes and Symphorema of Erak. 

The Affghans appear to cut every plant almost of any size for winterfodder, even thistles, docks, etc. The purple Lactucoid of Cabulre-appears, and the curious flat fruit calyxed Boraginea of Shawl both inabundance. The crops here are not more forward than those at Kurzar; thefields are _crowded_ with Stellaria, but there is much less Tanacetum;Geraniums occur in profusion. 

Silene fimbriata, is a night flower, withering by 9 A. M. 

I found no snow up the left Hajeeguk ravine, and the effect was marked, namely, that none of the alpine plants are so abundant about it as lastseason, when they were in flower, or had passed. 

There is on the hills about this ravine, a large burrowing animal, probably a marmot; it is of a dark colour with tawny rump; when on thealert it sits on its rump, or rather perhaps raised on the hind legs, andhas the voice of an ordinary Rodentia. 

I heard several of these, but saw only one. 

Rich botanising is to be had on the swampy ground at the mouth of theright ravine. Pediculares 2, Silenaceae 3 or 4, Veroniceae 2, Orchis 1, Ranunculi 2, Junci 2, Carices several, Swertiae 2, one the largerSolidago, Geranium, Gramineae several, Parnassia of Erak, Campanula, Rutaodora, etc. 

_3rd_. --To Topehee. The vegetation of Kaloo is far less varied than thatof Hajeeguk, for it presents no such swampy ravines at such elevations. 

The plants of the hills around Kaloo villages continue half-way up, onthe road over the ravine Corvisartia is plentiful, with a Labiata, CalyceRoyleae, in profusion; this and Cnici form the chief vegetation;Papaveraceae also continue. 

Up the 1st ascent Hingoid tenuifolia, Ephedra stricta, Ribes commence, Ephedra continuing throughout wherever the bare rocks project through theloose soil; one-third way up, Statice long and short-peduncled commencewith an Astragalus. The bulk of the vegetation is an Artemisia; Royleoidand Chenopodium villosum continue, and do so for half-way up. 

At the black rock half-way up, Dianthus, Astragalus, Crotalarioid, Rosaesp. , Statice pulvinata, are common, this last and Artemisia are the chieffeatures: Scutellaria, Stellaria dichotoma, Umbellifera of Yonutt, Corvisartia, wild Gramineae of Yonutt, Arenaria fruticosa, Festucatriticoides continues. Borago of upper Kaloo, and the Glauci of Kaloooccur. Astragali 2 or 3 sp. , Silene sp. , but the chief vegetation isArtemisia. 

On the summit, Corvisartia, Boragineae, Gramineae, several; a stragglingPlectranthus coeruleus, Arenaria fruticosa, Allium rubrum, Cnici 2, theyellow Erigeronoid of Hajeeguk summit, occur on the descent just belowthe ridge, and on this side the Statice pulvinata is in profusion, and oflarge size. Large marmot, with teeth like those of a rat. 

_4th_. --Proceeded to Bamean. At Topehee was found a curious succulentHypericum, it is odd that the leaves, etc. Of these succulent salineplants are cold; strikingly so. Connected with this low temperature, isthe fact, that if shut up in a box with other plants, and water thrownin, that even though they be at the top, they cause the deposit of allthe water that passes up in the shape of vapour, while the ordinaryplants remain quite dry! A wonderful provision of nature adapting themthe more to extremely dry stations. About Topehee, Cichorium is common;Salvia of Oonnye, Geranium, Artemisia exaltata of Sir-i-Chushme, andPulmonaria, so common everywhere, occur; Glaucum swarms in saline marshyplaces. Triglochin is also found, also Ranunculus stoloniferae trilobataof Kaloo, Hippuris. The flat-calyxed Boraginea, Melilotus officinalisalso found; Potamogeton cylindrifolia, Centaurea lutea. 

There also occurs along the barren slopes of the hills a glaucous shrub, much like that between Chunni and Dund-i-Goolai, decumbens, subspinos:glauco alb. Fruct. Baccato drupaceis, oblongis, purpuris, basi calyceparvo, 5-fido, stylo brevi apiculatis, putamina osseo-crasso oblongoovato, Sem. Immatur. 

_8th_. --Bamean. The fish, so far as I have caught any, seem to be onetrout, and two barbels. Of 5 species, one of these takes the wormgreedily, the length of the intestines varied in every instance, and ofthree the relative lengths of body and canal were as follows:

Inches. Canal. 

Body 6 (times ) 2. 125 ( Of three since captured andBody 7 (longer ) 2. 5 ( about 8 inches long, allBody 10. 5 (than the) 3. 5 ( nearly the same size, the (body. ) ( length of the canal was ( three times longer than the ( body. 

The intestines as usual taper almost gradually from the stomach andoesophagus, and are gorged with greenish pulp. 

This is worth following up. It is scarcely credible, but that thespecies are really different; or if not, the variety in the length willconsiderably diminish the value of the length of canal as a principle ofarrangement. {484}

The glaucous long-peduncled, large-flowered Statice is limited to theeast side of Kaloo. On this side another species occupies similarelevations, viz. , 9, 500 to 10, 500 feet; it is a good deal like the onemet with towards Ghuzni. These species are less alpine than the short-peduncled species with large flowers, which continues all over Kaloo, being in great perfection on the west side, near the summit. Anothershort-peduncled species appears on the descent, close to upper Topehee. Towards this Royleoid occurs but sparingly, and the first change takesplace in the abundance of Salicornia or Kochia. Also about this, Peganumand Salvia reoccur, both kinds not being uncommon about Bamean. 

Lactuca dislocata occurs throughout. 

The vegetation of Bamean is that of Topehee, but the small floweredTamarisk is scarce--Potentilla anserina is common, Hyoscyamus spinosus ofKaloo occurs. 

The Bamean river divides the Kohi-Baba from the Hindoo-koosh, but bothare obviously of the same system, i. E. They divide the ranges to thenorth. To the east their offsets are divided by the Kaloo river. Thedirection of the Hindoo-koosh and that of the Kohi-Baba, is about 115west. The space to the west consists of a low, rather flat plateau, (asit appears from the top of Kaloo, ) this flat belongs to the Kohi-Babarange; the offsets of the Hindoo-koosh to the east and north areordinarily shaped. All the hills on the north side of the valleydisintegrate on their south faces, forming cliffs of partial extent. 

_13th_. --Proceeded to Akrobat, ascending the Bamean river, and thendiverging up a _kotul_ or acclivity of considerable height, but gradualascent. Then descending at once steeply to Akrobat, which is about 9, 500feet above the sea. Along the river, Rosa, Hippophae, and Salix occur, the two former being abundant. Scarcely any change in vegetation occurs:an Ephedra, very common up the _kotul_ and abundantly in fruit. Thehills are very barren, and nothing remarkable is observable about Syghan. Apricot constitutes the only fruit tree. Salix, Populus, and Sinjitoccur. 

All the valleys are narrow, and the hills very barren, the chiefvegetation being Salsolaceae. The vegetation of the valleys is the sameas that of Bamean; on the north of Akrobat two Statice occur, one withspathulate leaves scapigerous, the other a tall straggling plant. 

_22nd_. --Erak. The vegetation of Kurzar consists of Hypericum, Salsolaceae, Carduacea, and Hyoscyamus spinosus, but Salsolaceae occur inprofusion and several species. 

Hypericum enjoys to perfection, the faculty of condensing water on itsleaves, much more so than Salsolaceae; it presents an obvious affinity toRutaceae, capsula radiata 5-valvis, loculicida: valvis linea centralinotatis, septis solutis imo apice exceptis. Seminibus basi locul. Affixis, apice villosis; the tobacco is different from the Nicot. Tobaccum, cor. Virida tubo calyce, duplo longiore lamina brevi plicato:apricots in sheltered places. 

_24th_. --Kurzar. The Erak _kotul_ is thickly covered with Festucatriticoides, two Carduaceae, Salvia, Artemisiae, and Statices on thesouth side. On the north Statices, Onosma, and Carduaceae are mostcommon, and the vegetation is scantier. Ribes is common up the Erakravine; with it, Rosa and Symphorema are the chief shrubs. Ephedraceases about 10, 000 feet. A snake found of general grey colour, withblack-brown marking. 

_26th_. --Ascended Kohi-Baba from upper Kaloo, the ascent occupied aboutfive hours, the ridge was surmounted but no view of Baissoat wasobtained, except that the crest surmounted, as well as the still loftierculminating one belong to ridges running 30 degrees north from a mainridge, the passes of which, although apparently the same height as thepeak surmounted, are much more heavily covered with snow. These passesdo not appear very difficult. 

At 2 P. M. Set up the barometer on the ridge, the mercury stood 17. 354. Therm. In cistern, 79. 5. Detached Therm. In sun 85 degrees--on theground 105 degrees. 

_September 2nd_. --At 2. 5 P. M. The barometer stood 17. 356. 

Assuming this to give about 15, 000 feet, none of the peaks will be foundto be higher than 16, 500. The culminating point was close by, and didnot appear more than 1, 000 feet above me. The different ridges areseparated by deep spaces in which snow lies to a considerable extent. 

Having descended a considerable way I again set up the barometer. Time 4-45 P. M. 

The mercury stood at 18. 889. 

 Therm. In the Cistern. 63 degrees Ditto in the air. 68 degrees

The vegetation continues unaltered, the same as that of Kaloo kotul. 

Carduaceae, Astragali, Nardoid, Bromoid, Hordeoid pubescens, andStatices. And up to this, which may be assumed as 13, 500 feet, the hillspresent the same features, rounded with a good deal of soil, and largegranitic masses. 

But above this the disintegration of the ridge has reached a greatextent; for 1, 500 to 2, 000 feet the ascent is steep, passing over aprofusion of blocks and slabs of granite, generally externally of a darkbrown colour; here and there there is some coarse granular soil, andtowards the second station, say at an altitude of 14, 000 feet, a marshyspot occurred, crowded with Primula, together with Arenaria, Fumaria ofErak, Ranunculus of Hajeeguk, Carex, etc. From within 1, 000 feet of thesummit the ascent was easier, over ground composed entirely of smallangular bits of granite, which rock protrudes to the north, forming thesouth wall of a huge amphitheatre, heavily snowed in places. 

This granite varies much; being below a coarse quartzose grey rock, abovea very compact brown rock, except perhaps in its lowest outcrop, where ithas a slaty structure. 

The second station may be assumed as the lowest limit of the inferiorsnow line, but this so much depends on casual circumstances that evenmany places at 15, 000 feet are uncovered by snow, which as might beexpected is always heaviest in the higher valleys which are least exposedto the sun's rays. The surface of the snow in many places waspicturesque, being in the shape of crowded pinnacled ridges, theinterstices from 4 to 5 feet deep, holding water or ice. I saw from thesummit a flock of the large grouse, and at 14, 000 feet, a large hare. 

The peak surmounted is the lowest, and the nearest to Upper Kaloo. Thegranite on the west side formed a precipitous cliff of 200 to 300 feetdeep. 

The vegetation of the slope with small fragments, say between 14 to15, 000 feet was very scanty, a Cheiranthus, Polygonum scariosum, Papaveraceae, Phloxoides and Statice, being the only plants; and perhapsthis may be assumed as having no particular plant, all those enumeratedbeing found below. 

The vegetation of the steep rugged portion, which contained many patchesof snow and better soil, was more varied; in the upper parts of this aCarex, two or three Graminae, Cheiranthus, Plectranthus, Sedoides, Arenaria, Potentilla, Primula, Draboides and Brassicacea occurred. ATanacetoid was perhaps the most common. 

The most alpine forms of these were Carex, Holcoides, Sedoides, Staticedensissima, and Papaveracea; but of these Papaveracea, Phloxoid, Staticedensissima, Cheiranthus, and Polygonum are alone found above. Here againthe effect of the proximity of a bed of snow in retarding vegetation wasmost evident. Phloxoides elsewhere partly in flower, being found in fullflower near one of the beds of snow. 

It is curious that no green spots are found above, all the water passingdown under the soil, the swardy ravines scarcely extend beyond anelevation of 1, 500 feet above the camp on Upper Kaloo. 

The limit of the grey shrubby Salix may be taken as 1, 000 feet abovethat, the other plants are precisely the same as those of other swards;Abelia extends higher than Salix. 

The limit of crops is about the same, the issue of the water obviouslybeing in relation to the extent of cultivation by irrigation. Theassociated plants present no change. 

_23rd_. --Cabul. Curious transformation in Carthamus was observed, eitheraffecting the involucrum alone, when those branches that would havebecome flowers become clavate, covered with very dense aristate leaves, or affecting the florets which become more or less converted in thebranches. In these the involucre is little altered, and the receptacleis attacked by larva. In certain of these the florets are submitted tovery curious metamorphoses, each envelope remaining, but quite green, thestamina being little changed, the pistillum changed into a leaf-bearingbranch, the stigmata, etc. Into two leaves. 

This is chiefly remarkable because of the general tardiness of change inthe stamina, since it shows that the binary formation of the pistillum isa primary effect: it may be asked, if the number should be 5, why has itnot reverted to its original or typical state? The calyx is notreducible to 5. The permanency of the character of aggregate flowers ishere shown, as well as in Echinops, so that it is scarcely probable weshall ever meet a compositious flower solitary in the axil of an ordinaryleaf. 

To be examined hereafter in detail. 

If wood is a descending formation, produced by leaves, how are woodytendrils to be accounted for. In the vine the ancient tendrils areperfectly woody, although this may not be true wood, yet it is trulyfibrous, and I ask, from what is it formed?

The growth of young shoots is at once a proof that the whole system maybe formed from ascending growth, for in many we find woody fibrecomplete, though not indurated, and all the leaves from which wood issaid to be formed are only in a rudimentary state. 

_October 2nd_. --Seh-Baba. Spiraea belloides, commonish on limestonerocks in the ravine near the road which leads from Tazeen valley toKhubur-i-Jubbur. This limestone is in thin strata; the strata aresubdivided by quartzose veins, they occur generally at a dip of from 15to 20 degrees, but are occasionally quite vertical or highly wavy, presenting evidence of concentrated force upwards. The outcrop wears anuniform aspect, and occurs to the north of the ravine. The south hereand there presents sheets of rock, the overlying strata having slippedoff. The strike of the strata is north and south. 

Coal is said by Hatchet to be formed chiefly from the resinous principlesof plants, --this would account for its appearance when burnt, which isthe same as that of burnt bitumen. But resinous principles are, evenwhen they exist, of partial extent only in plants. In good coal thewhole of the vegetable substance seems to be transformed, a suppositionbarely compatible with Hatchet's idea. 

To study this, extensive examination of coal in all degrees of formationwould be necessary, beginning with the wood so curiously changed by theBrahmapootra, i. E. Brown coal occurring in its sand banks, and which hasa very peculiar and disagreeable odour when burning. It would also benecessary to examine how far the coal-plants exhibit vegetable structure, are they mere impressions or are they the plants themselves changed? Towhat extent do these agree with coal? What particular plants and whatparts of these appear to have formed coal? Its fibrous structure wouldhint at formation from the woody system, and it is not incompatible withthe _deliquescence_ of a thick layer of drift. 

The plants of coal fields having been drifted, can only give us an ideaof the vegetation along the natural drains of the then country, such mayby no means have had _one universal character_. 

The plants of the open surface of modern tropical countries beinggenerally different from those along the beds of streams, in whichsituations now-a-days Equiseteae, Lycopods and Filicis are chiefly found. Coal being drift, it follows that the plants of the coal fields can giveus no information on the distribution of vegetables in those days; togain information on this, the fossils should be in their originalsituation. And there again an obstacle may exist in our not being ableto ascertain the height or level of that situation. 

If the plants of coal fields are found to be converted into coal, thenthe only difference between coal shale, and coal will consist in the verysmall proportion of vegetable matter in the former. 

The small number of coal plants, i. E. The small number of species, atonce points to the supposition that fossil plants are confined to thoseof the most indestructible nature: here again is another sign of this inthe preponderance of Ferns, which Lindley finds to be the most permanent. 

Hence the preponderance of Ferns, is by no means explainable by theirgreatest simplicity of form, and consequent priority of formation. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

_From Peshawur to Lahore_. 

_October 14th_. --Peshawur. --Cucurbitaceae. The petals of cucurbitawere observed in one instance united along two of the corollal sinuses tothe staminal column, alternating with the smaller stamina; the processeswere produced upwards into petaloid appendages. 

_17th_. --Proceeded to Nowshera. As far as Pubbe the road extendedchiefly through a cultivated country, thence as far as could be judged atnight, over a plain country covered with coarse grass, and here and there(whenever a sufficiently gravelly surface occurred) among the thick of_Bheir_, which is here used for fences; Mudar, AErua, Nerioides andAdhatoda occurred; _Furas_ a common tree. 

_18th_. --Reached Khairabad. The same kind of country as about Nowshera, stony or sandy, with extensive tracts covered with _Bheir_, Mudar, andAErua as before, Mimosa common towards Geedur Gulli, and on it alsoKureel, which appears for the first time as it was not seen aboutJumrood. On to-day's march many grasses are apparent, the paleSaccharoid grass of Jugdulluck common, a species of Cynodon (given to meby Dr. Ritchie at Dhukk) very common, a Pommereullioid, a curiousSchoenanthus, a Poa, all are coarse and cover a large tract towardsGeedur Gulli: Barleria spinosa appears. 

Geedur Gulli is a ravine winding in and out in a curious manner among lowhills at the north-west end of what is called the Afredi Spur. Mimosavery common, Kureel, Dodonaea and Edgeworthia, neither very common, butMoarcurra and Euonymus are both rather common. _Mudar_ common; someAndropogons, of which one is the same as that of the Khyber. _Bheir_very common, also a Mimosa like the common _Babool_, but flowersunscented. Chokeys, or police stations are situated along the whole lineof road to Peshawur. Adhatoda common at the entrance to Geedur Gulliwhere the scenery is rather pretty; Adiantum common on banks near thewater; the hills of Geedur Gulli are rather thickly sprinkled with wood. 

The Cabul river is here a large stream, with a moderate confined bedbetween high banks on which Akora and Khairabad are situated. The viewof the Indus from Geedur Gulli presents a desolate look of sand, whichextends over a large space visible through a break in the hills to thenorth. The passage of the Indus through the Attock range seen from thesame point is curious; but general remarks on scenery can be of no use, except when they are founded on an intimate acquaintance with thecountry. The most natural course, i. E. One less impeded by mountains, would seem to be to the east instead of south. 

[Diagram of Attock Range: m491. Jpg]

Mulberry, Salix angustifolia, or willow, and _Buckein_, were seen atAttock. The scenery is not however bold, but on the contrary very poorcompared with the defiles of the Irrawadi. The hills are low, rounded, and present no precipices of striking dimensions. An old fort situatednear the junction of the rivers is a handsome looking building, butcompletely commanded. A large Serai or place for travellers is situatednear it to the north. The water of the Indus is muddy, but presentsnothing remarkable in temperature. The analogous points between theIndus and Irrawadi consist in defiles and the want of branches for a longway above their mouths. Jackdaws were the first old acquaintances I metwith on entering Peshawur; and the common kite, the Affghan one nothaving the same thrilling cry that the Indian one has; grey partridgesare found about Nowshera; as also Kuchaloo or Yams. 

_19th_. --Proceeded over the plain to Chuch and Khot-bha, winding alongthe Attock hill round to the fort, and passing the Serai, and anothersmaller one in ruins near the plains, thence over level ground to withintwo miles of Bhowli, where conspicuous trees were observed, otherwise theplain is rather barren, a few _Bheirs_ and some Phoenix only occurringabout villages on hills. The vegetation is the same. Chuch plain, wherenot cultivated, is covered with short coarse grasses, Andropogoneae. Among these a large-leaved Salvia occurs. The forms presented by thevegetation are however very little diversified. Mudar, a small-fruitedKochia, like that of Jallalabad; Boerhaavia very common. 

Cultivation is conducted in _Bheir_ fences, and consists of Indian-corn, _Bajra_, and cotton. 

From the Attock hills, the Indus is seen much divided by beds of sand, and churs or islands covered with a large purple Saccharum. Peganumcontinues to Attock and even extends beyond. 

Water plants of Chuch, Trapa, Valisneria verticillata, and Nymphaea. 

Shumshbad. --This town lies to the left of the road, one mile in the rearof my encampment. 

The spines of Barleria are evidently axillary, as is seen in youngbranches, probably they represent the lower pair of leaves of the lateralbranches, the terminal parts of which have a tendency to develop. 

The spines of Mimosa belong evidently to the same exertion as the leaf;they are connate at the base, and from the centre of this hardened part, arises the leaf; they may be either the lower pinnae, or they may be_spurious_ stipulae. The leaves developed within the true ones belong toan ill-developed branch. True stipulae are leaves with a distinctorigin. Spurious stipulae belong to their leaves, as is evident fromtheir not having a distinct origin. 

_20th_. --Hussun Abdul. Until we came near the Boorhan valley, the roadpassed over a high, dry, sandy plain, with no cultivation, and no water, then the descent took place through picturesque raviny ground with a fewisolated mounds, to a fine clear stream. The remaining part extendedeither along the cultivation of the Boorhan valley, or through similarraviny ground. Two streams were passed, the last is the Hussun Abdulriver. 

The vegetation of the high plain continues the same. _Bheir_, Mimosa, _Kureel_, AErua, Mudar, Andropogoneae, Pommereullia, OEgilops, Salvia, and Crotalaria aphylla. 

Among the ravines and thence to Hussun Abdul, a new feature presentsitself in the frequency of a largish Mimosa, probably that of the Khyberpass. This forms prettily wooded scenery, the white thorned Mimosa alsooccurs, Moacurra none, Euonymus, _Bheir_. 

About Boorhan a Ficus becomes very common, Achyranthes, Kochia fructibusparvis, Salvia, Serratuloid of Ali-Baghan and Ichardeh. Paganumcommon--Adhatoda and Vitex. In scenery the country is pretty, particularly after passing the last river: a dampish spot was passed atBhowli: a large Acacia, Melanoxylon and Pteris were found on the riverbanks. Dodonaea seen on low hills near Bhowli, as also Adiantum. Startedat 5 hours 40 minutes and reached at 11. 30; distance at least eighteenmiles. 

Hussun Abdul, is a pretty place, particularly the broken ground about thesacred stream, and the tank, in which Mahaseers abound; the waterbeautiful, many trees occur, especially Morus, Salix and Ficus. 

Zyziphus is a fine tree here, Phoenix, Khuggur, Bukkein, Ficus, andCupressus occur. 

The jackdaw, _mina_, blue and chesnut kingfisher, a noisy bird. Thesmall kingfisher, black and white kingfisher common: Myophonus, Pomatorrhinus. 

_21st_. --The chief cultivation here is _bajra_, and Zea maize. Theformer produces a second crop from branches; hence it is left standingafter the top spike, which is the largest, is picked; vegetation chieflyIndian, very few Affghan forms remaining, those of the hills are Mimosa, Adhatoda, and Euonymus. 

The water plants are all decidedly tropical; no Epilobium seen sinceleaving Peshawar: Eclipta, Cyperaceae. 

Trichodesma, Cannabis. 

Fish have few engaging habits, the tame Mahaseers take no notice of anyone until food is thrown to them. 

Tagetes, _Sud Buruk_, is a curious genus, on account of its simpletubular involucrum, very entire and pappus florets, conduplicate inaestivation, all florets faeminine are ligulate; are the folded up onesrepresentations of the males?

_22nd_. --To Janika Sung, seventeen miles: the country continues much thesame. The road passes out of _Hussun Abdul_ over a low stonyelevation, and enters another valley, the exit from which is through theMaha Gullah: a large Serai is passed about two and a half miles from theBoorgi; in the Gullah near this, is a portion of a formed road. JanikaSung is a small village, about five miles from the Boorgi. 

The face of the country is undulated, intersected by ravines, ratherthickly covered with the large Mimosa and _Bheir_: the same may be seenin every direction. 

Affghan plants have nearly ended, Moacurra and Euonymus alone continuing. At the Maha Gullah a Carissa, and a _Zaitoon_, Ehretioides. This defileis picturesque, the wood prettily contrasted with bits of grassy ground. Adhatoda in abundance. 

The Maha Gullah was formerly a notorious place for robbers, but is nowquite safe, which says much for the Seikh rule. 

There was not much cultivation passed to-day, although most of thesurface is fit for it: water is near the surface. The Maha Gullah rangeis composed of limestone. 

The white-spined Mimosa and crooked-spined one change places, the formeroccupies uncultivated plains, the latter stony, undulated, or hillyground. 

Carissa certainly represents Jasminum. 

On the Kaliki Serai plain the chief plant is Mimosa albispina, then_Bheir_--here and there patches of Leguminosa, like the Cytisoides, socommon in Affghanistan. In the _Bheir_ thickets Schoenanthus is common;Andropogon and Pommereullioid also occur. 

In the Hussun Abdul river there is a species of Perilampus approaching toLeuciscus, but with faint bars. In the sacred stream there is a smallCyprinoid, probably a Systomus, with a conspicuous spot on either sidenear the tail: there is also a small loach. 

The Mahaseer in the water is a handsome fish, the edges of the scalesbeing then blackish, as is also the longitudinal line. 

It is curious that all plants hitherto found parasitical on roots, haveno green leaves; to this, marked exceptions exists in Cuscuta andCassytha, such true-leaved parasites being found only on the ascendingaxis; this rule is so permanent, that species of certain genera, such asBurmannia, the bulk of which are not parasitical, have no leaves. Themode of attachment of all parasitical plants is I think the same, otherwise I should suspect the above difference to point to a marked onein the nature of the fluid derived from the stock: thus leafless plantsmight be supposed to induce no particular change in the fluid theyimbibe, while the others might be supposed to elaborate their own fromthat of the stock. 

There is another very remarkable circumstance connected with the mosttypical leafless parasites, in their very frequent limitation to thegenus Cissus, on which perhaps all Rafflesiaceae and Cynomorieae areexclusively found. 

My chief reason for supposing Sarcocodon to be Monocotyledonous, orrather Endogenous, is the ternary division of its parts, and if mysupposition be correct, it tends to establish, if indeed other ampleevidence did not exist, the great permanence and consequent value of thisnumerical character. 

And with respect to Sarcocoidalis I shall adopt the same opinion, if Ifind on enquiry that a binary number, and imperfection of the female ascompared with the male, are more characteristic of Endogenous than ofExogenous growth. This same genus I consider in both these characters toallude to some analogy with one or more Acrogenous divisions. 

The establishment of the order of Rhizanths, as well as that ofGymnosperms, I consider as a retrograde step in Botanical science. It istotally opposed to all sound principles of classification, and is a proofthat, in the nineteenth century, arbitrary characters are still soughtfor, and when found are obstinately maintained. 

Even in the arbitrary character, which is considered as destructive ofall their other claims to ordinary vegetable rank, there is no unisonwhatever, for Rafflesiaceae have ordinary ovula, while Sarcocoidalis veryextraordinary. 

The amount of testimony proving their analogy in germination to be withAcrogens, must be very strong before I am convinced that plants withperfect ovula as Rafflesia, etc. Germinate from an indeterminate point, the existence of an aperture in the coats, points in the most markedmanner to some part representing a radicle. With the exception perhapsof Sarcocoidalis, these plants differ in no respect whatever from otherPhaenogamous vegetables; we have instances of the same parasiticalgrowth, and instances of the same apparent want of a radicle orhomogeneousness of embryo, and in the structure of the parts of theflower there is tolerably absolute general identity. 

It may be worthy of remark, as tending to prove the soundness of Mr. Brown's views with regard to the affinity of Rafflesia with Aristolochia, that a certain large and fleshy flowered species of the latter genus hasthe same putrescent smelling flowers. 

In Rhizantheae, as proposed by Endlicher, we have an assemblage ofdiscordant characters; we have plants associated, differing in the numberof their parts; we have some of comparatively simple roots associatedwith others of decidedly complex organization; we have Rafflesia in whichhighly complex female parts exist, associated with Sarcocoidalis, inwhich these are very simple. But besides the objection of combiningdiscrepancies on the strength of one agreement, the establishment ofdivisions upon such pretexts is objectionable in another point of view;viz. , that of making a transition of structure on one point, instead ofin several. 

We might as well form into one division all the ternarily formedDicotyledons, and into another all those Monocotyledonous plants withevident distinction between the calyx and corolla. 

But in addition to reasons founded on structure, I have this theoreticalone, that it is as requisite that Endogens should establish a similarrelation with Acrogens; otherwise a gradation exists between the firstand third classes, and none between the second and third, between which, gradations ought to be the more frequent. 

As Rafflesia approaches Aristolochia, so does Sarcocodon, Taccaceae. 

_23rd_. --Rawil Pendi. The country continues much the same to within fiveor six miles of this place, viz. High raviny ground, well covered withMimosa, _Bheir_, etc. 

Thence to Pendi, the country is open, bare, and much cultivated. Fromhigh ground near Pendi a considerable tract is visible, consisting of lowridges running nearly due south, interrupted here and there, andapparently quite bare. 

_24th_. --To Manikyala, distance nineteen miles, over an elevated country, with not much cultivation; broken ground occurs here and there, especially near the river Hoomook, now a small stream, the road windingthrough Mimosa jungle. _Moacurra_, _Bheir_, Euonymus. 

At a place about three miles from Manikyala, are the remains of a Serainow in ruins. From this to Metope, the road extends over an open countrycapable of cultivation, but neglected. Water in wells is thirty feetperhaps below the surface: the country about Tope very bare of trees. 

A curious low chain of sandstone rocks here occurs, and occasionallyprotrudes in places from below the soil, seldom rising above five feetand occasionally dilated into undulated tracts. 

Drill husbandry, (i. E. Seeds sown after the plough, ) seems much inpractice here. The late noise about improving pasture grasses has beenmade with little reference to the nature of an Indian climate, or thegenius of the Indian people. Pasture grasses only excel in countrieswhere there is no division of climate into hot, rainy, and cold seasons;but not in those in which rain is equally, or nearly so distributedthroughout the year. So far as I know, no place in India is calculatedfor pasture grass cultivation, because as none of excellent kinds cansucceed without irrigation, this element of Indian agriculture is appliedto more profitable cultures, such as artificial grasses. In the coldseason and the rains, nature supplies _dhoob_ grass bountifully, leavingthe natives to apply their agricultural labour to other objects, and insuch seasons the condition of cattle is decidedly good. 

Manikyala Tope, seen from near Rawil Pendi, is an insignificant building, and presents the same architecture as other topes, and as the Cabultower, although it is not of the same materials. The lower part of thebase is of pure sandstone, the upper of a stalactital conglomerate ofsmall pebbles, often perforated. The terraces at the base are now almosthid by rubbish, so that the whole looks like an overgrown dome or a lowmound. There are three stone ledges below, with flat pilasters betweenthe middle and lower ledge on the sides. The dome is much damaged. Thestones of which the building was erected, were not hewn inside, but I donot know whether they have not been cemented together. Access is easy tothe top partly by means of broken steps, otherwise the stones gave goodfooting. The top of the ruin is now open and discloses a square_funnel_, penetrating half the height of building; thence modernhandiwork has caused a broken irregular perforation. The building is notremarkable for great size, nor are any of the stones large, still as apiece of architecture it is far superior to any thing in modernAffghanistan. The country around is very bare and sufficiently open. Itis curious that there are many Indian plants found on or about thebuilding, all indicating a decided approach to Hindoostan. A Sida, Euonymus, Bheir, Lantana, and a Menispermum, are common shrubs on thebuilding, also Solanum quercifolium, spinis albis floribus coeruleopurpureis. 

_25th_. --To Puttiana, seventeen to eighteen miles; the country much thesame, little wood but bushes of the old trees: it is tolerably open untilPukkee Serai is approached, when it becomes very much broken andintersected by ravines in every direction, showing most forcibly theaction of water, many of the cliffs thus formed are picturesque. AtPukkee a small river is forded, thence to near Puttiana the country thenbecomes almost as raviny as before. 

AErua, Bheir, Mudar, a Kochia, much like one of the Cutch ones, and thebefore-mentioned plants continue. 

_26th_. --To Bukriala, twenty-two miles. From Puttiana the road is good, extended over a high open country, except where it crosses two ravines;the first of these containing a stream of water, about ten miles fromPuttiana. From Tammuch the road descends steeply into the BukrialaKakhudd ravine, which takes you to Bukriala. 

This ravine runs through a system of sandstone hills, of a blueish muddyaspect, and red clayey earth, often conglomerate. In colours not unlikethe Bamean district. Water is plentiful in pools throughout the lowerhalf of the road, which is all descent. Bukriala stands on the rightbank of the Khudd river towards its mouth, the vegetation about thisplace resembles that of the open country, and is unchanged in the Khuddriver, consisting of Kochia, _Phulahi_, and Mimosa albispina, Euonymus, _Bheir_, Adhatoda, Barleria, _Kureel_, and Capparis of Gundamuck; alsoPommereullioid, Andropogon, Schoenanthus, Holcus, and Stipa of Kuta Sung, Carallunia, Grewia and Menispermum of Manikyala. 

Also two plants not before seen, and neither common, one is a Butea, leguminous velutino pubescent arbor, it is the _Chuchra_ of the natives, and is used for paper. The other is a curious, leafless, scandent, monocotyledon. Asparaginea, and an Apocynea. 

Alhaji Maurorum is not found between this and Hussun Abdul, which is acurious thing. 

_27th_. --To Rotas. The country to Mittian is very much broken andconsequently difficult, consisting entirely of ups and downs: the road isonly practicable for cattle; the bad part of it commences with an abruptascent. About Puttiana, four miles from Bukriala, it becomes better, butit continues partially raviny until within four miles of Rotas, when thecountry becomes open, and the road good. 

Vegetation continues precisely the same, being still in the region of_Phulahi_: observed the Asparaginea again, Euonymus continues, alsoAstragalus, a Kochia, and an Affghan Chenopodium. 

A beautiful _bhowli_ or spring is passed on the way two miles from Rotas, it is covered with masonry, and the descent is by means of steps; thewater passes under large arches, a work worthy of the Mogul emperors. Sissoo, Peroplocea of Bolan, common. Rotas is an immense irregularfortress, with the usual faults: it is much too large, and situated on arocky plain partially commanded. It must have once contained a largenumber of inhabitants. Nelumbium, Potamogeton: half a mile from Rotastowards Peshawur, a square Serai, enclosing a garden, is passed. 

The country immediately about it on the west is open: and wellcultivated: there is but little water in the river. The town or villageis of no size. 

Butea not uncommon. 

_28th_. --Proceeded to Jhilun. The road is at first steep, as it passesdown along the Rotas river, about three miles from thence it is good, extending over a plain to the Jhilun. Fine cultivation observed on allsides, and of various sorts, chiefly _Bajra_ and _Kureel_. Dhahabundant, but not arborescent, Euonymus, Peganum, _Bheir_, and _Phulahi_, the latter very dwarfish. Mimosa albispina and Adhatoda very common. Thecommonest tree in these countries is _Bheir_, and a very handsome tree itis; _Nihi-joari_ cultivated. 

_Sun_ and _Tel_ occur, the last is very common. Yesterday a newcultivation presented of a Composite plant, called _Kalizeen_, used asspice or _musala_ for horses. The birds observed were Haematornis, Crateropod, Sylvia, Alauda cristata, Alauda alia in flocks. 

The town of Jhilun stands immediately on the right bank of the river ofthat name, it is a large and flourishing place. The river is about 200yards broad, not rapid, but here and there deep, and the bed at thisplace forms one undivided channel. The right bank on which the townstands has a stony sloping shore, the left is sandy. 

It is a mistake to suppose that the hilly country ceases here, on thecontrary, it crosses the Jhilun. At the ferry this river runs through alarge valley, bounded to the west by hills like those to which we havebeen accustomed; to the east it is bounded by a low chain, which runsparallel with the general course of the river. The valley is open onlyto the north and south. 

Otters, tortoises, and Mahaseer were seen in the river. 

_29th_. --To Sera, twenty-four miles, half the distance extended over theuncultivated base of the hills, and then over the low range itself, fromwhich at two points, fine views are obtained of the vast plain of thePunjab. Throughout this vast surface the vegetation is exactly thesame--Euonymus continuing, Peganum and _Phulahi_ forming chiefvegetation; numbers of white partridge occur. 

In the plains _Dhah_ is found in profusion, especially where thecultivation is not extensive. A new Acacia appears, the _Kikkur_, forming groves about most of the villages. Noticed the Physaloides ofLundykhanah. Encamped under a fine Mimosa and _Bheir_ near an old Seraiwhich forms part of the village, with a splendid view of the Himalayasstretching away from east to west. It appears from this direction as ifthere was only one low range between the plains and the culminating rangeof the Himalayas. Nothing like these mountains has been seen inKhorassan. The chief cultivation about here is _Nihi-joari_, then_Bajra_--why is the former always bent?

Prickly pear common from where we crossed the Jhilun river. 

A curious metamorphosis of Sesamum is of common occurrence: the calyxbeing unchanged, while the corolla preserves somewhat its shape, but isfoliaceous, the other organs are much transformed, the ovary less so thanthe stamina, but generally much enlarged; _ovules in leaves_ inside. This is worthy of examination, as it shows very plainly the origin of thestigmata from the placentae. 

_30th_. --Halted owing to having been robbed of two horses. 

_31st_. --Wuzerabad, twenty-four miles. Ten miles from Wuzerabad the roadextended through a highly cultivated country, and crossed the Chenab, onthe left bank of which river Wuzerabad is situated. The Chenab is a fineriver, the stream 150 yards wide, but on either side extensive beds ofsand show that the river during some seasons is of great width. 

Wuzerabad is a nice well built town, having a fine straight bazaar, withpaved street. The chief gateways and residences built by GeneralAvitabile. 

Chilodia occurs in abundance, Eleusine sp. , E. Coracana; _Bajra_ and_Joari Nihi_ being the prevailing cultivation. 

It is curious that in Phulahi major of Sera and the _Kikkur_, the youngbranches only are armed with thorns, so that the spines must be deciduousin certain species of Mimosa. 

Cactus is an instance of a calyx composed of a congeries of adherentleaves, which leaves produce from their axilla, tufts of white hair andthorns; or is it not an instance of an axis hollowed out towards theapex, to the sides of which the ovary finally adheres, in this case theoutermost series of the perianth will be calyx; one reason for adoptingthis supposition, besides the axillary bodies, is that there is nogradation between the small concave leaves of the calyx, and the outerseries of the perianth. 

_November 1st_. --Halted for fishing: Cyorinus Mrigala, is the _Mhoori_of these parts; it grows to a large size, is a handsome fish, and isindeed considered the king of fishes by the Punjabees. The intestinesare in longitudinal folds of extremely small comparative diameter, andenormous length; in a large specimen it is twenty-three times the lengthof the body. The intestines of the _Mahaseer_ are on the other hand onlytwo and a quarter times the length of the body!

Of the fish obtained, two are Perilamps, here called _Rohi_, 5 or 6 Cyprinides, 4 or 5 Siluri, 2 Ophiocephali, 1 Esox. Indeed I obtained a list of twenty-four species. 

_2nd_. --To Goograuwala, twenty-four and a half miles, over a finepopulous generally cultivated country. Goograuwala is a large town, having the streets paved with brick like those of Wuzerabad. Cactus verycommon; _Kikkur_ (Mimosa) is the chief tree here about the _Fukeer's_abodes. The Banyan also occurs. 

Peganum and Kochia of Jallalabad continue. There is a fort of some sizeclose to this town, built of mud; the ditch is unfinished, and not deep, it has a fau-se-braie, with bastions like those at Peshawur and Jumrood. The surface of the ground is much broken close up to it, the earth beingtaken away for bricks. 

_3rd_. --Proceeded to Koori, an inconspicuous village, belonging to M. Court; it is surrounded by extensive plains, on which a tall grass occursto a great extent. Distance twenty-eight and a half miles, the timetaken for to-day's journey was six and a quarter hours. 

The country is precisely similar to that previously noticed, the only newfeature being the grassy plains, in which at some little distance fromKoori, deer, partridge, hares, etc. Are said to abound. 

A sissoo-like tree is not uncommon. 

_4th_. --To Shah Durrah, twenty-three and a half miles at Nunzul, eightmiles from Shah Durrah, a fort with ditch out of repair was passed, atKoori ten miles from Shah Durrah, passed a deep Nullah called Baghbuchah, with high banks, thence entered on a tract of country covered withSaccharum, (_Moong_), from which ropes are made; (this is the same as theChuch species, ) we next entered on cultivation close to Shah Durrah, which place is well wooded. 

Mangoe trees, _Ams_, Eugenia Jambolana, _Jams_, _Bheirs_, Phoenix, _Kikkur_, and Ficus, are the principal trees. 

The grassy tracts of the Punjab represent probably the originalvegetation, existing now only here and there owing to the extension ofcultivation. 

From Shah Durrah Lahore is visible, particularly the buildings of theMogul emperor's, consisting of a conspicuous dome in ruins, and someminarets, a large Serai likewise going to ruin, standing in the immediatevicinity of the Royal Gardens, Lahore is decidedly a handsome lookingcity viewed from Shah Durrah. 

So great is the tendency in palms to throw out roots towards the base, that these roots exist in the common _Khujoor_, although they have to getrid of the indurated bases of the petioles before they can make theirexit. They are so extremely short and indurate that it is difficult toimagine the function they perform; at first they are capable probably ofabsorbing from the air. 

_5th_. --Proceeded to General Court's house at Lahore, distance six miles, the road after crossing the Ravee river near a royal summer house of noextraordinary merits, passes on to the town, and then winds round underthe Simon Boorge, a very striking part, at least exteriorly of the city, for the buildings, works, etc. Are in good repair. Besides this theground outside is swardy and prettily wooded. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

_From Lahore to Simla_. 

Lahore is surrounded by a ditch and wall, the work of former emperors' ofDelhi; the environs of the city, particularly towards M. Court'sresidence, are studded with mosques, etc. Mostly half ruined, and theground is literally strewn with old bricks, so that the city must at onetime have been an enormous one. 

Seikh troops in large numbers are cantoned round to the east and south-east skirts of the town, in low pucka barracks. 

Several low mounds apparently unconnected with ruins, occur in thisdirection. 

I arrived to hear of the death of Kurruck Sing, who was burned the sameday with five women; after the ceremony a scaffolding fell down, woundingNehal Sing dangerously in the head, and killing the son of Goolab Sing. Late in the evening the Maharajah was senseless. 

It is a curious thing, that the prince who this day ascended the_guddee_, and Goolab Sing, had been active intriguers against KurruckSing, who is said to have had his death hastened through chagrin atwitnessing Nehal Sing's usurpation of power. 

_6th_. --Not much cultivation was observed on the road to-day, whichextended over a naked marshy saline plain, or through a _Kureel_, andsmall _Jundy_ and _Phulahi_ district. 

To Kanah, seventeen miles--_Jundy_, _Kureel_ and _Bheir_ occurextensively. _Jundy_ is a low prickly shrub, Mimosa. There is somethingcurious both in the surface of the cavity enclosing the seed, and in thatof the seed itself of Acacia serissa. The former presents the distinctappearance of a straight line, originating in the same spot as thefunicle, and terminating in a very well marked, circular depression; itis formed by the funicle as far as the cells of the legume. If a sectionbe made through the seed longitudinally and its cell parallel with theplane of the legume, this mark will be found on both sides of the cell, but more distinct on one than the other. 

The mark on the seed by no means relates to this, at least it does notcorrespond with it, for it consists of a somewhat reniform elevatedridge, the ends of which do not meet, but one of which originates from anelevation to which the depression would seem to respond. The straightline does not correspond with the funicle, which is not straight, but ispushed up in a curved form against the upper edge of the cell. 

It corresponds, however, with a straight subclavated line running fromthe hilum to the elevation whence the curved line originates, althoughthis correspondence is not always well marked. 

[Sketch of Jundy seed: m504. Jpg]

The above marking, corresponding as it does in the flat part of thelegume with the funicle, evidently points to a peculiarity in thedistribution of the vascular system; probably it consists of the testa, and if so, it is worthy of remark, as the main vessels ordinarily asingle one, run along the edge, and not on the flat surface of the fruit. 

I know of no similar instance; in this plant the vessels of the testa aredistributed primarily at right angles with the placenta, and not inparallel lines with that organ. If the seed were depressed instead ofcompressed, it would not present this peculiarity, although even then thetwo primary vessels would be remarkable. From this instance it may beassumed that the hilum may only be defined correctly as the spot of unionbetween the body of the seed and the funiculus. The leaflets of theplumula are pinnate. 

It is also curious that the distribution of green parenchyma is along thecourse of the veins of the legume, and that there is a more minutereticulation, and a greater development of the green colour on the facesof the cells, than on any other part of the surface of the legume. Thereis no difference appreciable by the naked eye between the placental anddorsal sutures, with the exception of the sutural line of union, whichhas the usual relation with the axis of the head of the flowers--Euphorbiaoccurs here. 

The affinity of Cacteae with Grossulaceae is questionable, the systems oforganization being very different. Query--What instances are there ofaffinity between inferior ovary plants, with distinct definite envelopesand stamina, and plants with a perhaps similar ovary, but with indefiniteenvelopes and definite stamina with a want of correspondence in thestructure of the fruit?

_7th_. --To Kussoor, twenty miles. The road extended generally through a_Jundy_ country: about half-way Salvadora appears in abundance. Kussooris a large well-built town, consisting of three separate parts, eachsurrounded by a _pucka_ wall furnished with bastions: these three partsare at some distance from each other. _Furas_ tree common. 

_8th_. --Ferozepore. About this place two species of Kochia occur, andArtemisia is not uncommon. The Serratuloides of Alli-Baghan and Ichardehin profusion, affording cover for game. 

_16th to 21st_. --Loodianah. In the Nullah, Butomus begonifoliusoccurs. 

The following are the fish of Loodianah taken both from the Nullah andthe Sutledge. 

_Roh_. --Cyprinus (Cirrhinus), a large, very handsome, excellent, orange-brown fish, takes a bait but is capricious. 

_Rohoo_. --A sombre black-brown fish, intestines several times the lengthof the body, said to be the young of the above. Both these are differentfrom the Roh or Ruee of the Ganges. 

_Coorsah_. --Labeo Cursis, a definite scaled sombre fish, it is good food, and attains the size of two to three seers; intestines twice the lengthof the body, very narrow. 

_Kkul Bhans_. --Cirrhinus Calbasu, a sombre looking breamoid-shapedfish, attains the same size as the above, and is reputed to be excellentfood. 

_Mhirgh_. --Gobio Mrigala, a handsome fish, particularly when young; formvery elegant, intestines fourteen times the length of the body; excellentfood. 

_Bura Raiwah_. --Gobio Rewah, a very handsome, eight-cornered, scaledfish, with orange fins and golden sides: takes no bait?

_Chota Raiwah_. --Gobio occurs in shoals--either occupied in busilyturning up its silvery sides against the bottom, or at the surface, abovewhich it may be seen protruding its head. 

_Bhangun_. --Gobio, a handsome fish, not esteemed. 

_Potea_. --Systomus, takes bait--worms; affords good sport and reaches toone seer, but is not esteemed; colours ordinary. 

_Systomus_, a beautiful fish, back shining green, sides yellow, scalesbeautifully striate, with a spot near the tail; mostly found in stillwater. 

_Gonorrhynchus_. --Snout rough, colours sombre, belly somewhatprotuberant; found with Systomus. The intestines are of the usual formof the genus. 

Gonorrhynchus, a sombre smaller fish, found in still water. 

_Bura Chalwa_. --Much esteemed as food in the districts of the Sutledge. 

_Perilampus_. --Intestines shorter than the body, having at the lower enda short curve; above green, from lateral line downwards silvery. 

_Moh_. --A _Siluroid_ fish, does not attain the size of the real Moh, which is a higher or deeper formed fish. 

_Tengrei_. --Silurus platycephalus. Attains a very large size. 

_Gudha_. --A Percoid. Colour irregular brown, mouth very protractile. 

_Gughal_. --Ophiocephalus, a handsome fish, back rich greenish, mottledbrown, with 3 or 4 black spots on the sides, which are yellow, passingoff into white, and a peacock spot on the tail. Fins spotted with white:it reaches a large size. 

_Bham_. --Macrognathus, body eel-shaped, with a row of movable spinesalong the back. 

About Loodianah, the Naiad of Affghanistan, Monandra, stigmatibusreniformibus, is common in the Nullah, so also is Butomus begonifolius, but this may be a leafless form of Sagittaria. 

Towards Roopur, Sissoo becomes more and more common. Roopur is a largishtown, with a Seikh pucka fort on a mound. The fort is surrounded by adry ditch. The town is situated on a low, rather rugged ground, formingthe first elevations of the surface towards the Himalayas; beyond it tothe north-east is a low spur, also to the west a similar spur, verybarren, rugged, clayey rock forming the immediate bank of the river. Every thing assimilates to the Bukriala and Jhilun ranges. Saccharum, _Moong_, as before, _Bheir_ likewise occurs. 

Phoenix, Dalbergia sissoo, Ficus, Adhatoda, Boerhaavia scandens, Hyperanthera, Morus, Apluda, Tamarisk, Riccia, Ammannia, Euphorbiaantiquorum, Cactus, and Dodonaea, form the chief vegetation. 

Some rapids occur near the Bungalow: the strongest is under a cliff onthe opposite side; no fish rose to red or black hackle or orange flies, all which were tried in vain in the deep still water close underBungalow. The plants of this place are Guilandina, Grewia arbuscula infruit, Justicia, _Bheir_, _Neem_, Mango, Parkinsonia, the latter rare. 

Fish caught in net are Mullet, this fish is very active, and escapes byjumping over. Silurus, Mahaseer, several of the latter taken at a haul, the largest 10 lbs. , it is a beautiful fish with golden sides, scalesblack, with the anterior half bluish-black, posterior half tawny-yellow, fins orange, lips very thick and leathery; it lives half orthree-quarters of an hour after it is taken out of its element. 

The _Nepura_ of the natives, Gobio malacostoma, or Rock Carp of Gray, Hardwicke's Illustrations, is the _puhar-ka muchee_ of these parts:it has the base and edges of the scales dull greenish-blue, fins dusky, atransverse pink line across the scales; the length of the intestines istwenty-two and a half times that of the body, filled with mud andcoloured pulp, stomach continuous with the intestine, and more fleshy, filled with green and whitish pulp, and disposed in longitudinal folds. 

The _Bangun_, Roh, (Gobio) is a splendid fish, base and edges of thescales dusky brown, otherwise refulgent gilded, belly white, fins dusky, head greenish-brown, less gilding about the dorsal scales. This fish Ihave not seen elsewhere. Length of intestines disposed in longitudinalfolds, the posterior of which are nearly as long as abdominal cavity, thewhole twenty-seven and a half times the length of the body. Organizationand contents as in _Nepura_. The breadth or depth of this fishimmediately behind the opercule three inches, across the body, oppositethe first ray of dorsal fin, five inches, first ray of anal three inches, length twenty-two inches. 

Query--In which part of a fish intestines like that of the Mahaseer, isthe chief digestion carried on?

_27th_. --To Nalighur Bungalow, the distance rather less than sixteen, butover fourteen miles through a similar country to that round Roopur. Theroad passes a large village called Canowli; at rather less than abouthalf-way it extended across a sandy dry river bed of some extent, on theright bank of which, at the highest part, is a Seikh brick fort. Theroad subsequently passes the Sursa, a small shallow rapid stream. Thedry bed of which turns up on the south side of the low range to the southof Nalighur valley. No change in vegetation takes place, except theoccurrence of a Croton, much like that of the Pagoda near Canowli. 

Trees observed--Eugenia Jambolana, Mangifera indica, Ficus, _Bheir_, _Neem_ or Melia Azadarach, Parkinsonia about the bungalow. Toon, Cordia, Bauhinia, Bambusa, Emblica, Morus, Plumeria, Mudar, Saccharum, _Moong_, Bheir fruticos and Kikkur are the most common indigenous forms. Dhak inpatches here and there: Cassia also occurs. 

Nalighur consists of a village and fort, the latter situated to the north-east half-way up a range of hills, the country about very barren. Indeedthe aspect of the country is much like that between Hussun Abdul and theJhilun, except in the rarity of _Phulahi_. 

A great affinity exists in foliation between Terebinthace and Sapindaceae. Also both in foliation, flowers, and habit, between Myrtaceae andGuttiferae, the only material differences being in aroma, and adherentovary. 

The plants observed about Nalighur Bungalow, exclusive of speciescollected, were Cassia lanceolatoid, this is the common Indian _Tora_, Acacia, _Rairoo_, Achyranthes aspera, Digera arvensis, Polanisia viscosa, Carissa, Carandas, Bheir frutex, Coccinea communis, Cucurbita, Sidamultilocularis, Amaranthus? spicatus, Cassia fistula. 

Eleusine _echinata_; Poa very common, as well as _Dhoob_. 

In gardens--Tabernamontana coronaria, _Bhee_, Chrysanthemum double andligulate. Of Birds, _Pica vagans_. 

_28th_. --From Nalighur to Ramgurh, a good ten miles. The road firstascends through and above the town, then follows a short twistingdescent, and soon after a very long but not very steep ascent, until itcomes over the ravine of the Ramgurh river, and the descent to thattorrent; thence an uninterrupted steep ascent about as much as thedescent to Ramgurh. There is no bungalow at this stage, merely a fewshops and sheds. The fort is situated to the left of and 600 feet abovethe town. 

From Ramgurh to Sahee Bungalow, the distance is eight miles, there is asteep descent to Sursa torrent, which contains very little water, then arather long and gradual ascent, then descend to the Gumbur river. Theroad then extends up this ascent for one and a half mile, and continuesascending on the right bank until within half a mile of the bungalow, towhich there is a slight descent. There is no made road along the Gumbur, and I missed or did not observe the Soorog river. The Gumbur is a clear, good-sized stream, fordable about the rapids, bed narrow confined. 

The hills traversed were comparatively barren, and decidedlyuninteresting. However much in appearance they may here and thereassimilate to the Khorassan hills, no identity in vegetation existsexcept perhaps in the Apocynum found at Attock. 

The country is cultivated with great labour, and the villages thoughsmall are numerous, and present a look of plenty, like Englishwhite-washed cottages. 

There is a difference between the vegetation of the hills near the plainsand those in the interior. On the former there are scarcely any trees, and Adhatoda occurs in greater profusion than elsewhere. The Himalayanprovinces here present an extreme affinity with the same range to theeastward, as Bootan and Mussoorie, but the forms are by no means sofrequent--i. E. Species are not so numerous. Throughout the above twenty-eight miles the vegetation is tropical: a few European forms occur as onegets into the hills, but they are of no great value. The chief arboreousvegetation consists of Rubiaceae, Mimoseae, Cassiaceae (_Bauhinia_), Bignoniaceae, and Myrtaceae. These are much the most common betweenRamgurh and the ridge over Naligurh. Here also Nyctanthes is verycommon; Zanthoxylon also occurs here and there like an Ash. 

On the ridge above Ramgurh, Adhatoda is very common; Carandas likewiseoccurs, but is not very common; Eranthemoides is rather common, but thisoccurs in profusion on the descent; Cassia tora, O. Lanceolata, andPeristrophe occur. 

On the descent from the above ridge, Porana appears. Lemon-grass, Bambusifolia, Cryptogramae calamelanos, Adiantum flagelliformis. 

On the long ascent Grislea, Acacia, Bheir, Zanthoxylon, Cordia, Nyctanthes, Myrtaceae 1-2, Wendlandia, Bignonia, Randia, and two or threeother trees about houses, a species of Ficus; Euphorbia antiquorum commonon the drier parts. 

On the ascent from the torrent, the vegetation is thick. Bauhiniascandens, Carandas, Butea, Erythrina, neither common, others as before:Loranthus. 

At Ramgurh, Peepul, Erythrina, Rhus planted; Euphorbia antiquorum verycommon, Cassia tora, C. Lanceolata, Carandas common, Kalanchoeintegrifolia, Adhatoda not rare, scarcely a single wild tree. 

Scutellaria occurs on the descent. Rubus, Berberis, Gnaphalium. On theascent from Sursa, Geranium, Clematis, Asparagus, Trichodesma of theplains, Bombax (young), Bambusa, Hiroea, Dioscorea, Fragaria, Adiantumflagelliformis, Calomelanos, Saccharum, _Moong_, Acacia, Adhatoda, Vitex, etc. As before, but trees are not common, except Ficus and _Bheir_ inprofusion. 

Descent to the Gumbur the same. Pyrus pomum appears, Carandas, Anatherummuricatum, Briedleioides common. Along the Gumbur river, Pyrus, Adhatoda, Mimosa, Dalbergia sissoo, Myrtaceae, Euphorbia, etc. Continueas before. 

Between Nalighur and the commencement of the descent to the Gumbur, andespecially between the Sursa and that descent, the chief vegetation istropical grasses, such as Andropogons. Along the Gumbur, the hills arewell covered with tall bushes. Carandas common, but little if any grass. 

Fossil shells are found along the Gumbur. Of birds Pica vagans, Haematornis, and several Sylviae were observed. 

About Sahi, young Pinus longifolia; all around, the hills are of the sameaspect. No fish were seen in the Gumbur, although I crossed it severaltimes. The view of the plains shows the commencement of the great chainstretching out in low, very much undulated hillocks, precisely as inKhorassan. 

_29th_. --Proceeded from Syree to Konyar: this I think the longest of themarches to Loodianah, and is nothing but one series of ascents anddescents chiefly along the Gumbur ravine: at the foot of ascent to theKonyar, the road crosses a considerable stream, and nearly at the summitof the ascent, branches off to Soobathoo. 

Konyar is a rather large village, well ornamented with trees, in rather afine sort of valley, every inch of which is cultivated. The tankadjacent to the village is well stocked with Nelumbium. 

To Syree, the distance is eight and a half to nine miles. The roadcrosses the Konyar village and valley, then ascends to the south-east, and continues ascending gradually by an excellent road for a considerableway, then it skirts a ridge and comes on the grand Soobathoo road. Fromthis a short but steep ascent, followed by a descent of a mile and aquarter, conducts you to the bungalow. 

No change occurs in the vegetation. The hills are more grassy and morebare of trees, especially near Syree, but this is partly owing tocultivation. The principal woody feature is Euphorbia antiquorum. 

The plants before noticed occur throughout, except about Syree, wherescarcely a shrub is to be seen, nothing but burnt up grasses. 

At Sahi, Roylea appears, also an odd-looking Modeeca and a Deeringia. Near these is also an Asplenium, Echites. At Konyar, Prinsepia appears, and continues becoming more and more frequent up to Syree. Towards thisplace V. Reniformis is seen, not a single northern grass, although Syreemust be nearly 5, 000 feet high. 

At Sahi, Pinus longifolia, Phoenix, Salix, and Polygonum of Chugur-Serai;this is common as far as Konyar. Acacia, Carandas, Urtica nivea. Ricecultivated. 

About three miles beyond it, there is a beautiful ravine with densejungle and fine trees, chiefly Laurinea, and I think a Rhus; this is theonly spot I have seen reminding me of the Himalaya to the eastward. 

At Konyar--Toon, Morus, Musa, Deeringia, Berberis, Briedleia. 

The hills are as usual marked with wavy parallel lines, on which nothingappears to grow. These lines are united by smaller oblique ones, whencetheir origin?

_30th_. --To Simla. The road extends over undulated ground along ridgesuntil the foot of the great ascent is reached; this is long and steep, especially steep at the first, or Buttiara pass, where it turns to theface of the mountain, and extends through beautiful woods. The groundfrozen, with some snow; from this to Simla the road is tolerably level, and defended on the _Khudd_, or precipice side by a railing. It thenpasses through fir woods, etc. In which the exceedingly pretty Jay ofBharowli is common. 

The vegetation to the foot of the ascent, and nearly half-way up, isunchanged. Andropogoneous grasses forming the prevailing feature; butlittle arboreus or shrubby vegetation occurs. About halfway betweenSyree and this an ascent takes place, on which Daphne, Hypericum, andEchinops occur. 

Near Syree--Bombax, Ruta albiflora, Daphne, Pteris aquilina, Clutia, Aspidium, Polytrichum nanum and aloides, Hypericum, Berberis, Rubus, Prinsepia, Rosa, Jubrung, Grislea, (rare, ) Clematis, Cerasus, _Datura_, _Bukhein_, Citrus, Spermacoce, Poederia azurea, and Andropogonbambusifolia were observed. Ficus two species, Ficus repens, Pommereullioid spicis longis, Rubia Mungista, Galium, Polygonum ofChugur, Carissa, (rare, ) Amaranthaceae, Conyza. 

The great ascent is very instructive; half-way up observed Gaultheria, conspicuous from its blood-coloured leaves; an oak occurs commonly butstunted, and a few stunted Pinus longifolia. 

Buddlaeoides occurs two-thirds of the way up, with Mespilus microphyllus, Alpina, Labiata and Pyrus. 

The oaks and Gaultheria increase in number and size towards Bithuria, Conaria. 

The first to cease is Euphorbia. 

At the summit Berberis, Polygonum of Chugur, Rubus deltoideus, Conyza andPrinsepia may be found, but to no extent. From this to Simla thevegetation is chiefly northern. 

Nothing definite is observable with regard to the distribution of forestsabout Simla. The principal secondary ranges, including the Choor, whichis quite void of shrubby vegetation, is about north-east and south-west;generally the southern aspects of those ridges on which forests occur isbare; of this, there is a notable instance--Muhassoo. 

Mount Jacka, which looks east and west by its broad faces, has bothdensely enough wooded with oak, Euonymus, Rhododendron, Gaultheria, andIlex, but the ridge which looks to the plains is bare. 

Some ridges again are quite bare, as that lowish one between Mounts Jackaand Muhassoo. 

The thickest and most humid woods decidedly occur on the northern facesof the ridges; and all about Simla instances of this occur. Such spotsare at Simla so much sheltered from the sun, that the snow which fell onthe 23rd November is scarcely diminished. 

Even in these there is no comparison in luxuriance and variety ofvegetation with the Mishmee or Bootan portions of the same stupendouschain. 

The trees are few in number as regards species, the only ones I haveobserved are a species of oak which is very common, forming the chiefvegetation of the northern faces, and of both those of Mount Jacka. 

The scarlet Rhododendron which occurs in the highest parts of the woods, an occasional Pyrus, Benthamia, Euonymus, Gaultheria very common, alsoPinus Deodara, longifolia, and excelsa; of these the Deodar is mostcommon. Ilex, a pretty tree, occurring on Mount Jacka. 

The following forms also I have noticed--Saxifraga ciliata, Berberisasiatica, and Gnaphalia three or four species, which are chiefly confinedto grassy naked ridges. Thymus is also confined to these. 

Ruta albiflora is very common in woods; Dipsacea and Artemisia on exposedgrassy spots; Swertia is common in damp places; Spiraea bella, Ledum, Stemodia, Epilobium, Viola, Saccharum rubrum, Valeriana, Fragaria, Galium, Clematis, Rosa, Rubus, Rumex, Leguminosae, Coronilloid, Smilax. 

Acanthaceae, Androsaceae, particularly a Gnaphalioides common on theexposed ridge of Mount Jacka; Myrsinea frutex, Parnassia common, Salixfruticosa; on Prospect Point, Lycopodium, Herminioid, Epipactis, Orchideaealiae, 2 Scitamineae. 

Elaeagnus, Mespilus microphyllus, Polygonum of Chugur; 2 or 3Amaranthaceae; Prinsepia, rare; very little variety in ferns; Pterischrysocarpa, Aspidium pungens, and another are the most common; nor isthere any variety in Epiphytous ferns, and very few Jungermannias. TheMosses are Bartramia, Catharinea, Polytrichum aloides on banks withFissidens, otherwise Hypna are the most prevalent. A Neckera hangs fromevery tree, and a Pterogonio Neckeroid covers almost every trunk, aBrachymenium is likewise common. 

Altogether, though numerous, there is no great variety in form. 

On the summit of Chaka, Quercus, Gaultheria, and Rhododendron are common;with here and there a Deodar. 

On the east face of that mountain consisting of a long ridge, grassesform the chief vegetation, among which Andropogons and Schoenanthus arenot uncommon, Gnaphalia and Artemisia occur; Thymus, Androsacegnaphalioides, Potentilla, Coronilloid, Labiata frutex, Jasminum, Rosa, Mespilus microphyllus, Clematis, Cnicus, Rubus, Labiata alia, Galium, Swertia, Salvia were noticed. 

Of the tropical forms, Andropogoneous grasses are most common, Saccharumrubrum of the Khasyah Mountains, Desmodium, Acanthaceae, and Elaeagnus, which last occurs on Prospect Point. 

Saccharum rubrum extends up to 8, 000 feet. 

The woods generally on the surface are matted down with grasses orCarexes, so that there is no variety of surface for the lower orders; insuch places, Ophiopogon is very common. 

Regarding the Coniferae, Pinus excelsa is the rarest, Deodar is the mostcommon; longifolia occurs principally on a southern projection fromChaka, and on the south face of the Mall ridge. 

_December 5th_, _1840_. --Went to Mount Fagoo. After passing MountJacka, or Chaka, you come on a bare country which continues at least onall the southern aspects until you reach the ascent to Muhassoo, which isat first steep, then gradual and long; the vegetation remains unchangeduntil the Muhassoo ascent is begun upon; then Rhododendron, Quercus andGaultheria soon cease, and their places are occupied by a Quercus muchlike Q. Semecarpifolius, Pinus excelsa also occurs rather abundantly, andof good size, the other vegetation continues. 

The first part of Muhassoo, along which the road runs for some hundredyards under its crest, is occupied by grassy vegetation, chieflyAndropogon and Schoenanthus; Gnaphalia, Buddlaea, Labiata, Polygonum ofChugur, Thymus, etc. , and the crest of the same is chiefly occupied bythe undescribed oak. 

But where the ridge takes a north and south direction, the west facebecomes almost exclusively occupied by Deodars, among which as oneproceeds up, Pinus Smithiana occurs; after turning again close to thelittle Bazar on the north face, the road continues on this side to Fagoo, extending through a heavy and magnificent forest of Pinus Smithiana andQuercus semecarpifolius, the Deodar almost ceasing to appear; occasionalknolls are passed, on which grasses, Gnaphalium, etc. Occur, the sceneryis very beautiful, the trees being ornamented with the grey pendulouslichen, and with Neckerae, particularly the dark Neckera pendula. Theunderwood consists here and there of shrubs, but generally herbaceousvegetation, as grasses, Gnaphalia, etc. 

In fact Muhassoo is genuinely Himalayan. 

From Fagoo eastward the country is bare, except at great elevations; nearMuttiara to the north, forest-clad mountains occur, also at Huttoo, andfar away to the eastward other fir-clad ridges appear. 

It may be said that the really fine forests are restricted above, within8, 000 feet. 

The Smithia pine is a really fine tree, often 100 feet high, and three tofive feet in diameter, known by its downward curved branches, pendulousbranchlets, and pendulous oblong cones: many dead trees from the effectsof barking were observed. It is worthy of remark, that potatoes are nowcultivated in these woods. 

The Deodar is not so large as Smithia, and is known by its tabularbranches and ovoid erect cones. 

Andropogoneous grasses occur high up; even at the summit Acanthaceaeoccur, scarcely any change in the terrestrial ferns, among which Adiantumis found in profusion along the road, little change in Mosses, aPolytrichum occurs at the higher elevations, also a Dicranum on deadtrunks of trees. 

The only new arboreous vegetation consists in an Acer, which is a smalltree, also a small Poplar and Quercus semecarpifolius, this variesgreatly, Pinus Smithiana, Limonia laureola, a shrubby Rhododendron. 

Fagoo is only 5, 600 feet above the adjacent heights. 

On the edge of the forest, the following genera, etc. Were noticed--Spiraeabella and S. Aruncus, * Berberis asiatica, Swertia, grasses common, Gnaphalium, Senecio. , Epilobium, Pteris chysocarpa, P. Aquilina, Adiantum, Aspidium, Rumex, the Labiata fruticosa of Jacka, Potentillasanguinea, Artemisia, Coronilloid, Androsacea, Gnaphalioid, Epipactis, Carex, Cnicus, Viola, Valerianum, Jasminum, * Viburnum, * V. Aliud, Populus, * Silene, Mespilus microphyllus, Verbascum, Thapsia, Ilex, Euonymus, Loniceroid, Acer, * Eriogonoid, * Geranium scandens. *

Bupleuroid, Polytrichum, Rosa, Rubus, Salex fruticosa, * Fragaria, Crataegus, * Saxifraga crassifolia, Viscum, Rubia cordifolia. 

* Means altitudinal. 

Viscum has one attachment, but from this many branches spring after theform of the primary one. Muhassoo is of great extent, because an arm ofthe mountain extends to the south, and there assumes a considerableheight, equal to that of Muhassoo itself, and equally well wooded. It isof all other situations about Simla the proper place for collecting. Thesuccession of the pines in these regions is as follows:--

P. Longifolia, dry barren spots, from 5, 000 to 7, 500 feet, asRhododendrum arboreum. 

P. Excelsa, from 7, 500 to 8, 500 feet, no groups occur. 

P. Deodars, from 7, 500 to 9, 000 feet, especially on southern faces. 

P. Smithiana, from 9, 000 to 10, 000 feet, and is in the highest perfectionon north faces. 

One thing remarkable is the wide ranges of the above forms, for exceptingthose marked with an asterisk, all are found about Simla. 

The most common herbaceous family on Muhassoo is Compositae, and verystrange to say, most of its forms, as indeed the others, excepting someof the trees, are found on the Khasyah Mountains at much lowerelevations, and much lower latitudes. Of birds the _Cone-eater_ ofBootan occurs. 

_7th_. --To Annandale, a pretty level spot, some 2, 000 feet below Simla, remarkable for its beautiful grove of Deodars. 

Of the wild grasses they are almost all exclusively tropical forms, Paniceous or Andropogoneous. The chief cultivation of the hills, Atriplex sanguinea, _bhatoo vena_, some fine walnut trees, mulberries, also Celtoidea? _Kirrack ven_, Zanthoxylon. 

Passed a herd of red-rumped monkeys; the crooked-tailed _Lungoor_ is alsofound here. 

Rich vegetation extends down the southern slope, where there is awaterfall. It is curious that both here and in Annandale the Deodargrows to a large size, although naturally its range does not extend solow as this slope. Passed a beautiful temple, surrounded with fineDeodars. 

Ferns occur in more abundance, thence downwards Woodwardia, Dicksonia?Cyatheoides, and Adiantum. Mosses also occur on the dripping rocks. 

An Alnus also occurs. 

No fish were visible in the streamlet. Peristrophe occurs throughoutfrom Roopur to Simla. 

Epiphytous or at least _Epirupous_ Scitaminia. Hedychium is found onrocks on this slope, which would give an elevation of about 5, 500 feet. 

On the sunny sides of hills about Simla, Dicerma is found, this is one ofthe most tropical forms. 

No Epiphytous Orchidea are seen. And of birds Enicurus, the redstart oftorrents, and Myophonus were observed. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

_Heights and Latitudes of the Stations visited in__Affghanistan_. {517}

"The subjoined Table contains the latitudes and the altitudes of theprincipal stations passed through by the late Dr. Griffith during theCabul campaign in 1838-40, from his original observations. The altitudesfor the latitudes were taken with the sextant and the artificial horizon, and the results throughout are so nearly coincident, that it may berelied on the latitudes herein given are correct to within half a minutein space. 

[Formula for Latitude/Elevation: m517. Jpg]

_Latitudes_, _and Elevations above the Sea_, _of the various__localities visited in Affghanistan_. 

[Lat/El. 1: tle1. Jpg]

[Lat/El. 2: tle2. Jpg]

[Lat/El. 3: tle3. Jpg]

NOTES. 

{0a} Major Thomson, C. B. , Engineers, from whom as well as all theofficers of the same corps, Mr. Griffith experienced much kindness inAffghanistan. 

{0b} _Racoma nobilis_, Calcutta Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. Ii, p. 577. T. Xvfig. 4. Subfam. SCHIZOTHORACINAE. 

{0c} Calcutta Journal Natural History, Vol. II. P577, t, xv. F. 4. 

{7} It is also on a northern declivity. 

{9} On a hill near the Bungalow are the tombs of Lieuts. Burlton andBeddinfield, two distinguished officers murdered by the natives in 1829. 

{12} Although in former times it must have been of some note, thevicinity is strewed with sculptured stones and columns, of which themodern buildings are constructed. These remains present the form andproportions of European Architecture, and exhibit considerable taste. 

{24} The rank of the chiefs of various nations on the frontiers of Assamdepends on the number of skulls of vanquished enemies, which decoratetheir houses. The Mishmee trophies, as appears from the author's accountin the Journ. As. Soc. May 1837, consist of the skulls of cattle only. 

{25} _Trigonocephalus mucrosquamatus_, afterwards described in Proc. Zool. Soc. 1839, Vid. Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. 1, p. 77. 

{29a} Subsequently described from this specimen in the Proceedings of theZoological Society, March 12, 1839. Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol 1, p. 82. 

{29b} _Gonorhynchus bimacalutus_, _G_. _brachypterus_, _Perilompus__aequipinnatus_, and _Cobitis phoxocheila_, which have been all sincedescribed from these specimens in the 19th vol. As. Res. Beng. 

{31} Afterwards crossed by the author in his journey into Burma. 

{33} For a narrative of Lieut. Wilcox's visit to the Mishmee mountains, see As. Res. Vol. Xvii. P. 314. 

{35} Mithun is, according to the author, a peculiar species of Ox. 

{40} Subsequently described by the author in an important communicationto the Linnaean Society. 

{42} One of the most influential of the Singpho chiefs, whose influenceat this period kept Upper Assam unsettled. 

{51} A Burmese authority. 

{53} Probably Major R. Bruce of the Rajah's service, one of theSuperintendents of Tea Cultivation. 

{54} For the whole of this able communication, detailing the object andresults of his visit to the Mishmee mountains, See Journ. As. Soc. Beng. May 1837. 

{60} See Reports of the Coal Committee, 1841, p. 3. 

{61a} See Description by the Author, As. Res. Bengal, Vol. Xix. 

{61b} Since described from these specimens as _Calamaria monticola_, and _Dipsas monticola_. Vide Proc. Zool. Soc. March 12th 1839, andCal. Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. I. Pp. 80-85. 

{61c} As. Res. Vol. Xix. P. 336. 

{64} Dr. Bayfield was deputed by the Resident at Ava to meet the partyfrom Assam on the Burmese Frontier. 

{66} This is one of the Mountain Barbels, _Oreinus_, probably _O_. _guttatus_, As. Res. Vol. Xix. P. 273. 

{68} A Barbel, and an Oreinus, or Mountain Barbel. 

{74a} _Opsarius gracilus_, As. Res. Vol. Xix. P. 419. 

{74b} A species of Barbel; probably _B_. _deliciosus_, As. Res. Xix. P. 352. 

{75} Since described as _Cyprinus semiplotus_, As. Res. Vol. Xix. P. 346. 

{78} This would seem to be Coal formation, in which amber is frequentlyfound. It occurs, for instance, in the spurious coal of Kurribori, E. OfRungpore. 

{111} The reading of this passage is obscure, the MS. Being very faintlywritten in pencil. 

{113} Introd. Nat. Syst. P. 44. 

{114} The preceding eight pages within brackets are written faintly inpencil. 

{115a} The usual route is to Kujoo Ghat, about five miles below MoodoaMookh, thence through Sooroo, Kujoo, etc. To the Booree Dihing. 

{115b} By the Karam and this other branch, on which old Beesa wassituated, all the water which formerly supplied the Noa Dihing now passesinto the Booree Dihing. 

{116} Most of the Singphos subject to our control are located betweenKujoo Ghat and the Booree Dihing, as well as on the banks of this riverand in the valley of the Tenga Panee. 

{117} The existence of Petroleum is of value as connected with thesolution of Caoutchouc. 

{118} The affix Nam, signifies in the Shan language a river or stream. 

{119a} The word _Kha_ is Singfo, and signifies a river. 

{119b} Here Capt. Hannay and myself were met by Mr. Bayfield. 

{119c} Khioung, or Kioung, signifies a small river in the Burmeselanguage. 

{119d} Bhoom is the Singfo word for mountain. 

{124a} Which we forded a few miles below Isilone; depth of the ford fromtwo to four feet. 

{124b} In this direction the valley is nearly 65 miles in length. 

{125} This river rises in a conspicuous range, well known by the name ofShewe Down-gyee, or great golden mountain. 

{126} This is certainly not the Ulukhor of Buch. Hamilton's statistics ofDinajpoor. 

{128} Probably from a species of Sterculia. 

{129} The Toung-bein of the Burmese. 

{130} Many of these hills are inhabited by Kukkeens, who do a great dealof mischief, and whose annual depredations remain unchecked andunpunished. 

{132} Serpentine is occasionally found in the bed of the Nam-marsan. 

{139} Especially on the right bank. 

{145} It must be observed that Kamein is several miles out of the routefrom the Mogoung river to Mogoung itself, we visited it en route to theSerpentine mines. 

{147} This is the site of the fossil bones discovered by Mr. Crawfurd. 

{149} These brackets are shown in the text turned through 90 degrees. -L. B. 

{168} The Kullung rock is a most striking object from its artificial dome-like appearance. It is composed of granite resting on an elevatedplateau of soft friable gneiss. This last in mouldering away, leavesnumerous rounded boulder-like masses of granite on the surface, whichfrom their hardness, resist the action of the atmosphere amidst thesurrounding decay of the softer rock. 

{172} For original notice of the discovery of this raised beach, seeJournal of the Asiatic Society, September 1835, p. 523; and an account ofthe difference of level in Indian coal fields, vol. Vii, 1838, p. 65 ofthe same work; also description of Cyrtoma a new genus of FossilEchinida, Calcutta Journal of Nat. Hist. Vol. I, p. 155. 

{183} Simia Hylobates agilis. 

{186} Raised on posts. 

{193} See Journal Asiatic Society of Bengal, vol, --Feb. 1838. 

{205a} Eastern Thibet. 

{205b} For this and similar figures, see {212}

{205c} _Barbus hexagonolepis_, Asiatic Res. Xix. --Pl. F. 3, pp. 170, 313, 336. 

{205d} Cyprinus Semiplotus As. Res. Xix. --Pl. 37. F. 2, pp. 274, 346. 

{206a} Opsarius gracilus, As. Res. Vol. Xix. 

{206b} See {35}

{212} Such figures may be thus read. Temp. Of the air 60 degrees Fah. , that of boiling water 204. 5 degrees. 

{217a} Relative heights. 

{217b} These figures refer to Woollaston's thermetrical barometer. 

{221} Centropus nigrorufus. 

{227} _Oreinus progastus_, As. Res. Vol. Xix. Pl. 40, fig. 4. 

{349} Referred to by the Author as an Anthemidioid, and on one occasionas _Santonica achilleoidea_. 

{383} Schizothorax Edeniana, Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. II. P. 579. 

{390a} Schizothoracinae. 

{390b} Cobitis marmorata, see Calcutta Journal of Nat. Hist. Vol. II, p. 560, where the Fishes collected by Mr. Griffith in these parts aredescribed. 

{404} Salmo orientalis, Calcutta, Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. III. P. 283. 

Throughout Southern Asia, including the Punjab, and both plains andpeninsula of India properly so called, no species exists of the troutfamily or Salmonidae. Their discovery in the streams descending from thenorthern declivity of the Hindoo-koosh distinguishes that chain as thesouthern boundary or limit of the family. It is also remarkable that theHindoo-koosh should likewise be the exclusive province of a numerousgroup of small scaled Cyprinidae, met with only in the rivers ofAffghanistan, consisting of the genera, Schizothorax, Racoma, andOreinus, of which one or two species only have been found to extend southalong the plateau of the Himalaya, as far as 27 degrees N. , while thebulk of the family is confined to 34 degrees N. See Calcutta Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. II. P. 560 t. Xv. 

{417} This alludes to a sketch of the valley. 

{418} Melia. 

{435} For the particulars of this attack in which Mr. Griffith nearlylost his life, the reader is referred to extracts from privatecorrespondence. 

{450} These sketches, together with the author's further views on thesubject, will be more appropriately incorporated in the second part ofhis Posthumous Papers, entitled 'Icones Plantarum Asiaticarum, ' and'Notulae ad plantas Asiaticas. '

{479} Nearly allied to _Cobitis chlorosoma_, As. Res. Vol. Xix, pl. 52, f. 3. 

{481} This is an undescribed species if not an undescribed genus, and wasby some mischance lost from the collections; it may properly, whendescribed, receive the name of the author, who was the first to notice soremarkable a form. 

{484} It is chiefly important as a generic, not as a specific character, see _November 1st_. 

{517} The Editor is indebted to the kindness of Mr. Curnin, not only forthe note with which this table of heights and latitudes is introduced, but also for the construction of the table itself from the results of 437observations for latitudes alone, and an equal number almost foraltitudes.