{Transcriber's note: Some misprints have been corrected, as noted at theend of the e-text. All material added by the transcriber is betweenbraces {}. Text in bold in the original is surrounded by =equals signs=. } HERTFORDSHIRE [Illustration: ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH] HERTFORDSHIRE _By_ HERBERT W. TOMPKINS F. R. Hist. S. _With Illustrations by_ EDMUND H. NEW AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND TWO MAPS "Hearty, homely, loving Hertfordshire" --CHARLES LAMB LONDON METHUEN & CO. LTD. _36 Essex St. Strand_ _Second Edition, Revised_ _First Published March 1903_ _Second Edition, Revised 1922_ TO MY WIFE PREFACE In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief description ofHertfordshire on the lines of Mr. F. G. Brabant's book in this series. The general features of the county are briefly described in theIntroduction, in sections approximately corresponding to the sections ofthe volume on Sussex. I have thought it wise, however, to compress theIntroduction within the briefest limits, in order that, in theGazetteer, I might have space for more adequate treatment than wouldotherwise have been possible. I have visited a large proportion of the towns, villages and hamlets ofHertfordshire, and have, so far as possible, written from personalobservation. I desire to thank Mr. John Hopkinson, F. L. S. , F. G. S. , etc. , for hiskindness in writing the sections on _Climate_ and _Botany_; Mr. A. E. Gibbs, F. L. S. , F. R. H. S. , for his permission to make use of severalmiscellanies from his pen, and Mr. Alfred Bentley of New Barnet for hiscourtesy in placing some photographs from his collection at the disposalof Mr. New. VERULAM, SOUTHEND-ON-SEA, 1903. CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION 1 I SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES 1 II PHYSICAL FEATURES 2 III CLIMATE 11 IV FLORA AND FAUNA 15 V POPULATION 23 VI COMMUNICATIONS 25 VII INDUSTRIES 28 VIII HISTORY 31 IX ANTIQUITIES 33 X CELEBRATED MEN 39 DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY 45 INDEX TO PERSONS 235 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS THE RAILWAYS OF HERTFORDSHIRE _Front Cover_ THE ABBEY CHURCH, ST. ALBANS _Frontispiece_ (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co. , Enfield_) LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS _To face page_ 2 (_From a Photo. By Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) ON THE RIVER COLNE 8 (_From a Photo. By Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING--THE HIGHEST WATER LEVEL IN ENGLAND 10 (_From a Photo. By Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY 47 (_From a Photo. By Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) ASHRIDGE HOUSE 53 (_From a Photo. By Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK 59 (_From a Photo. By Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD 72 (_From a Photo. By Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) BISHOP'S STORTFORD 74 (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) BROXBOURNE 79 CHORLEY WOOD COMMON 87 (_From a Photo. By the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co. _) HATFIELD HOUSE 109 (_From a Photo. By Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE 111 (_From a Photo. By Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) HEMEL HEMPSTEAD 115 HERTFORD 117 HITCHIN 125 (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) KNEBWORTH PARK 139 OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END 146 (_From a Photograph by the Author_) RICKMANSWORTH 170 (_From a Photo. By the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co. _) THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON 172 (_From a Photo. By Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBANS--THE OLDEST INN IN ENGLAND 178 (_From a Photo. By Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) BACON'S MONUMENT 183 (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) RUINS OF BACON'S HOUSE 184 (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) ST. ALBAN'S SHRINE 192 (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co. , Enfield_) STEVENAGE CHURCH 204 (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) WALTHAM CROSS 214 MAP OF HERTFORDSHIRE 233 INTRODUCTION I. SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES Hertfordshire, or Herts, is a county in the S. E. Of England. On the S. It is bounded by Middlesex; on the S. W. By Buckinghamshire; on the N. W. By Bedfordshire; on the N. By Cambridgeshire; on the E. By Essex. Itsextreme measurement from due E. To W. , say from Little Hyde Hall toPuttenham, is about 38 miles; from N. To S. , from Mobb's Hole at the topof Ashwell Common to a point just S. Of Totteridge Green, about 30miles; but a longer line, 36 miles in length, may be drawn from Mobb'sHole to Troy Farm in the S. W. Its boundaries are very irregular; theneighbourhood of Long Marston is almost surrounded by Buckinghamshireand Bedfordshire, that of Hinxworth by Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire, and that of Barnet by Middlesex. Its extreme points are:-- N. Lat. 52° 5´ (N. ) E. Long. 0° 13´ (E. ) W. Long. 0° 45´ (W. ) S. Lat. 51° 36´ (N. ) Its area is 404, 523 acres or 632 square miles. It is one of thesmallest counties in England, the still smaller counties being Rutland, Middlesex, Huntingdon, Bedford and Monmouth. Hertfordshire is one of thesix home counties. [Illustration: LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS] II. PHYSICAL FEATURES Hertfordshire, being an inland county, is naturally devoid of manycharms to be found in those counties which have a sea-coast. But it hasbeauties of its own, being particularly varied and undulating. Itsscenery is pleasantly diversified by many woods, which however aremostly of but small extent, by swelling cornfields, and by several smalland winding streams. There is much rich loam in the many littlevalley-bottoms traversed by these streams, and other loams of inferiorquality are found in abundance on the higher levels of the arabledistricts. The soil in many parts, owing to the preponderance of chalk, is specially adapted to the cultivation of wheat. Its trees haveelicited the admiration of many, particularly its oaks and elms, ofwhich colossal specimens are found here and there throughout the county, and its beeches, of which the beautiful woods on the Chiltern slopes andelsewhere in the W. Are largely composed. The hornbeam is almostrestricted to Essex and Hertfordshire. The woods of Hertfordshire formindeed its sweetest attraction in the eyes of many. The districts ofRickmansworth, Radlett, Wheathampstead and Breachwood Green, amongothers, are dotted with coppices of ideal loveliness, and largerwoods such as Batch Wood near St. Albans and Bricket Wood near Watfordare carpeted with flowers in their season, interspersed with glades, andhaunted by jays and doves, by ringlets and brimstones. Hazel woodsabound, and parties of village children busily "a-nutting" in the autumnare one of the commonest sights of the county. It abounds, too, in quietpark-like spots which are the delight of artists, and contains manyvillages and hamlets picturesquely situated upon slopes and emboweredamong trees. A large proportion of the birds known to English observersare found in the county either regularly or as chance visitors, and willbe treated more fully in a separate section. The many narrow, winding, flower-scented lanes are one of the chief beauties of Hertfordshire. Theeastern part of the county, though, on the whole, less charming to theeye than the rest, contains some fine manor houses and interesting oldparish churches. Its most beautiful part is unquestionably the W. , nearthe Buckinghamshire border; its greatest historic interest centresaround St. Albans, with its wonderful old abbey church now largelyrestored; Berkhampstead, Hertford, Hatfield and Hitchin. The countycontains rather less than the average of waste or common land; thestretches of heath used for grazing purposes only aggregating 1, 200acres. Among the finest panoramic views may be mentioned:-- (1) From the hill near Boxmoor Station. (2) From the village of Wigginton, looking S. (3) From the high-road between Graveley and Baldock. (4) From Windmill Hill, Hitchin, looking W. There were medicinal waters at Barnet, Northaw, Hemel Hempstead andWelwyn, but these are now disused. Many other details touchingphysiographical characteristics are mentioned as occasion arises in theAlphabetical Gazetteer which follows this Introduction. The Geology of Hertfordshire must be here summarised in few words. Thepredominant formations are the Cretaceous and the Tertiary. CRETACEOUS. --Ignoring the Gault, which barely touches the county, thisformation consists chiefly of Chalk-marl, Lower, Middle and Upper Chalk. A series of Chalk Downs, an extension of the Chiltern Hills, stretches, roughly speaking, from Tring to Royston, forming by far the mostprominent natural feature of Hertfordshire. The oldest rocks are in theN. W. _The Chalk Marl_ is superimposed upon the Gault and Upper Greensandbeds, which are confined to the western portion of the county. Its upperlayer passes into a sandy limestone, known as Totternhoe stone, whichhas furnished materials for many churches in the shire. Ashwell, Pirtonand Tring may be named as neighbourhoods where this stratum may betraced. _The Lower Chalk_ is devoid of flints, and rests, in somewhat steeplysloping beds, upon the Totternhoe stone. It forms the western slopes ofthe Dunstable Downs, and of the Chiltern Hills. It is fossiliferous, oneof the commonest of its shells being the Terebratula. _The Middle Chalk_, of resonant hardness, is laminated, and has at itsbase the Melbourn Rock and at its summit the Chalk Rock. Nodules offlint, greenish in appearance, and (rarely) arranged in layers, occursparsely in the Middle Chalk, which may be traced in the neighbourhoodof Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Baldock, and also in a few otherdistricts. _The Upper Chalk. _--Although, as has been stated, the configuration ofHertfordshire is very undulating, we are able to discern a general trendin certain districts. Thus, there is a gradual slope to the S. From theN. W. And central hills, a slope which comprises the larger part of thecounty. This slope is formed of the Upper Chalk, a formation aboundingin layers of black flints. The chalk is whiter than that of the lowerbeds, and very much softer. Fossil sponges, sea-urchins, etc. , areabundant in this formation. TERTIARY. --Many of the chalk hills of Hertfordshire are strewn withoutlying more recent deposits which prove that the lower Tertiary bedswere more extensive in remote ages. The beds of sand and clay, of suchfrequent occurrence in the S. E. Districts, contain fossils so distinctfrom those of the Upper Chalk that an immense interval must have elapsedbefore those Tertiary deposits were in turn laid down. _The Eocene Formation. _--The _Thanet Beds_, of light-coloured sands, present in some other parts of the London Basin, notably in Kent, arewanting in Hertfordshire. There are, however, some widespread depositsof loamy sands which may possibly be rearranged material from the ThanetBeds. The lowest Eocene deposits in the county are the _Reading Beds_. Theserest directly upon the Chalk and have an average thickness of, say, 25feet. They may be traced E. To S. W. From the brickfields near Hertfordto Hatfield Park; thence to the kilns on Watford Heath and at Bushey;they may also be traced from Watford to Harefield Park. These bedscontain flints, usually found close to the Chalk, and consist chiefly ofmottled clays, sands, and pebble-beds. Fossils are but rarely found. From the Woolwich and Reading Beds come those conglomerate masses offlint pebbles commonly called Hertfordshire _plum-pudding stone_. Thesehave usually a silicious matrix and were often used by the Romans andothers for making querns for corn-grinding. It is, perhaps, notimpertinent to mention here the opinion of geologists that during the_Eocene Period_ a considerable portion of the land usually spoken of asS. E. England was covered by the ocean. Resting upon the _Reading Beds_ we find that well-known stratum calledthe _London Clay_, which is of bluish hue when dug at any considerabledepth. It is found in some of the same districts as the _Woolwich_ and_Reading Beds_, and from Hertford and Watford it extends to N. E. AndS. W. Respectively until it leaves Hertfordshire. Its direction may beapproximately traced by a series of hills, none of which are of anygreat height. _The Drift. _--In Hertfordshire, as elsewhere, the strata whose names areso familiar to geologists do not form the existing _surface_ of theground. For the origin of this we go back to a comparatively recentperiod, when disintegration was busily working upon the solid rocks, andglaciers were moving southwards, leaving stones and much loose _débris_in their wake. Rivers, some of which, as in the Harpenden valley, havelong ceased to run, separated the flints from the chalk, forming agravel which is found in quantities at Harpenden, Wheathampstead and St. Albans, and is, indeed, present in all valley-bottoms, even where noriver now runs. Gravel, together with clays, sand, and alluvial loams, forms, for the most part, the actual surface of the county. _The Rivers_ of Hertfordshire are many, if we include several so smallas hardly to deserve the name. They are the Ash, Beane, Bulbourne, Chess, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Lea, Maran, Purwell, Quin, Rhee, Rib, Stort and Ver. 1. _The Ash_ rises near Little Hadham, and, passing the village ofWidford, joins the Lea at Stanstead. 2. _The Beane_, rising in the parish of Cottered, runs to Walkern, whereit passes close to the church, and flows from thence past Aston andWatton, and into the Lea at Hertford. 3. _The Bulbourne_ rises in the parish of Tring, passes N. E. OfBerkhampstead and S. W. Of Hemel Hempstead and unites with the Gade atTwo Waters. 4. _The Chess_ enters the county from Buckinghamshire at Sarratt Mill, and flowing past Loudwater joins the Gade at Rickmansworth. The Valleyof the Chess is one of the prettiest districts in the shire. [Illustration: ON THE RIVER COLNE] 5. _The Colne_ rises near Sleap's Hyde, is crossed by the main road fromBarnet to St. Albans at London Colney, and by the main road from Edgwareto St. Albans at Colney Street. Thence it passes between Bushey Hall andBushey Lodge, flows through Watford to Rickmansworth where, uniting withthe Gade and Chess, it enters Middlesex near Stocker's Farm. 6. _The Gade_ rises near Little Gaddesden, skirts Hemel Hempstead Churchon the W. Side, and passing King's Langley and Hunton Bridge, flowsthrough Cassiobury Park and joins the Chess and Colne at Rickmansworth. 7. _The Hiz_, rising at Well Head, S. W. Of Hitchin, crosses that town, joins the Purwell at Grove Mill and leaves the county at Cadwell. 8. _The Ivel_ rises near Baldock, flows to Radwell Mill and shortlyafterwards enters Bedfordshire. 9. _The Lea_ is the largest river in Hertfordshire. It rises nearLeagrave (in Bedfordshire) and flows through the county from N. W. ToS. E. Entering Hertfordshire at Hide Mill, it flows past Wheathampstead, Hatfield, Hertford, Ware, and, leaving the county near Waltham Abbey, enters the Thames at Blackwall. Its entire length is about 50 miles. Thewaterway known as the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ is navigable toBishop's Stortford. 10. _The Maran_, or _Mimram_, rises in the parish of King's Walden, skirts Whitwell on the N. , running parallel with the village street, andpassing through Welwyn and near Tewin enters the Lea at Hertingfordbury. 11. _The Purwell_, or _Pirall_, rises in the parish of Ippollits andpassing W. Of Great Wymondley runs to Purwell Mill, and joins the Hiz atGrove Mill. 12. _The Quin_ rises in the neighbourhood of Wyddial, and passingQuinbury, unites with the Rib at Braughing. 13. _The Rhee_, rising a little E. Of Ashwell, has but a few miles toflow before it enters Cambridgeshire. 14. _The Rib_ rises at Corney Bury, flows E. Of Buntingford, thenceturning W. It flows under the bridge at the _Adam and Eve_, runs toWestmill, Standon and Thundridge, finally uniting with the Lea atHertford. 15. _The Stort_ enters Hertfordshire from Essex at a point near CannonWood Mill, and after passing through Bishop's Stortford forms theextreme E. Boundary of the county for some distance before quitting itnear Cheshunt. 16. _The Ver_ rises near Flamstead, is crossed by the Dunstable Road, N. W. Of Redbourn, then recrossed by it. It then skirts St. Albans on theS. And joins the Colne near Park Street. In addition to the cutting of the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ alreadymentioned, there are other artificial waterways:-- _The Aylesbury Canal_ (a branch of the Grand Junction Canal) crosses theextreme western neck of the county, from S. Of Puttenham to S. OfGubblecote. [Illustration: GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING _The highest water level in England_] _The Grand Junction Canal_ is largely utilised by barges traversing theW. Of Hertfordshire. It is conspicuous at Rickmansworth, Boxmoor, andBerkhampstead; it enters Bedfordshire near Marsworth Reservoir. _The New River_ was constructed by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a Londongoldsmith, in 1609-13, and is largely fed by springs at Chadwell nearHertford. Its course in Hertfordshire is mostly close to and parallelwith that of the Lea. The New River caused the financial ruin of itsprojector; one of its shares is now worth a large fortune. The wholestory of this undertaking is very interesting; but as the New River wascut in order to bring water to London that story belongs to a volume onMiddlesex. III. CLIMATE The chief elements of climate are temperature and rainfall. A generalidea of the mean temperature and rainfall of Hertfordshire, both monthlyand annual, may be gained from an inspection of Bartholomew's _Atlas ofMeteorology_ (1899). From that work it appears that the mean annualtemperature of the county, if reduced to sea-level (that is, thetheoretical mean for its position) would be 50° or a little above it, but that the actual mean varies from 46°-48° on the Chiltern Hills to48°-50° in the rest and much the greater part of Hertfordshire; alsothat the mean annual rainfall is between 25 and 30 inches, the latteramount only being approached towards the Chilterns. Thus altitude isseen to have a great effect on both these elements of climate. Hertfordshire is hilly though not mountainous, a great extent of itssurface being considerably elevated above sea-level, with a generalsouth-easterly inclination; it has a dry soil; is well watered withnumerous rivers of clear water--already enumerated--chiefly derived fromsprings in the Chalk; is well but not too densely wooded; and itsatmosphere is not contaminated by manufacturing towns. It thus maintainsthe reputation for salubrity which it gained more than three centuriesago, our earliest county historian, Norden, remarking on the "salutarie"nature of the "aire". Observations taken at the following meteorological stations during thetwelve years 1887 to 1898 have been printed annually in the_Transactions of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society_, and a briefsummary of some of the chief results will here be given. _Royston_ (London Road): lat. 52° 2´ 34´´ N. ; long. 0° 1´ 8´´ W. ; alt. 301 feet; observer, the late Hale Wortham, F. R. Met. Soc. _Berkhampstead_ (Rosebank): lat. 51° 45´ 40´´ N. ; long. 0° 33´ 30´´ W. ;alt. 400 feet; observer, Edward Mawley, F. R. Met. Soc. _St. Albans_ (The Grange): lat. 51° 45´ 9´´ N. ; long. 0° 20´ 7´´ W. ;alt. 380 feet; observer, John Hopkinson, Assoc. Inst. C. E. _Bennington_ (Bennington House): lat. 51° 53´ 45´´ N. ; long. 0° 20´ 7´´W. ; alt. 407 feet; observer, Rev. Dr. Parker, F. R. Met. Soc. _New Barnet_ (Gas Works): lat. 51° 38´ 5´´ N. ; long. 0° 10´ 15´´ W. ;alt. 212 feet; observer, T. H. Martin, M. Inst. C. E. 1. _Temperature. _--The mean temperature of Hertfordshire, as deducedfrom the above observations, is 48. 3°. It has varied from 47. 0° in 1887to 50. 2° in 1898. The mean daily range is 15. 9°. It was the least(14. 2°) in 1888, and the greatest (18. 1°) in 1893. The mean temperatureof the seasons is as follows: spring 46. 6°, summer 60. 2°, autumn 49. 2°, winter 37. 2°. The warmest month is July, with a mean temperature of61. 0°; the coldest is January, with a mean of 36. 1°. August is verylittle colder than July. In these two months only has the temperaturenever been below freezing-point (32°). In December and January only hasit never exceeded 62°. It increases most rapidly during the month ofMay, and decreases most rapidly during September and October. 2. _Humidity. _--The relative humidity of the air, that is the amount ofmoisture it contains short of complete saturation which is representedby 100, is, at 9 A. M. , 82. It has varied from 78 in 1893 to 85in 1888 and 1889. The air is much drier in spring and summer (78 and 75)than it is in autumn and winter (86 and 89). There is the least amountof moisture in the air from April to August (74 to 78), and the greatestfrom November to January (90). 3. _Cloud. _--The mean amount of cloud at 9 A. M. , from 0 (clear sky) to10 (completely overcast), is 6. 7. It has varied from 6. 0 in 1893 to 7. 4in 1888. Spring, summer, and autumn are about equally cloudy (6. 5 to6. 6), and winter is considerably more so (7. 2). The sky at 9 A. M. Isbrightest in September (6. 0) and most cloudy in November and January(7. 5). 4. _Sunshine. _--At Berkhampstead only have records of bright sunshinebeen taken for the whole of the twelve years. Throughout the year thesun shines brightly there for nearly four hours a day (3. 9). The averageduration in spring is 5. 0, in summer 5. 8, in autumn 3. 2, and in winter1. 6. The duration is least in December and greatest in May; the sunshining for rather more than an hour a day in December and nearly sixhours and a half in May. An apparent discrepancy between this and thepreceding section is due to a bright day often following a cloudymorning and _vice versâ_. 5. _Wind. _--The prevailing direction of the wind, as recorded atBerkhampstead, St. Albans and Bennington, is from S. W. (sixty-one daysin the year) to W. (sixty-two days), and the next most frequent windsare N. To N. E. And S. (each about thirty-seven days). The least frequentare S. E. (twenty-five days). About forty-four days in the year arerecorded as calm. 6. _Rainfall. _--Twelve years is much too short a period to give atrustworthy mean for such a variable element of climate as rainfall, andfive stations are much too few to deduce an average from forHertfordshire. The average rainfall at a varying number of stations forthe sixty years 1840 to 1899 (from one station in the first decade ofthis period to twenty stations in the last decade) was 26. 15 inches. Inthe driest year (1854) 17. 67 inches fell, and in the wettest (1852)37. 57 inches. Spring has 5. 40 inches, summer 6. 97, autumn 7. 87, andwinter 5. 91. The driest months are February and March, each with a meanof 1. 65 inch; April is but very little wetter, having 1. 69. The wettestmonth is October, with 2. 96 inches, and the next is November with 2. 56. The mean number of days of rain in the year, that is of days on which atleast 0. 01 inch fell, for the thirty years 1870-99, was 167. Autumn andwinter have each about six more wet days than spring and summer. Therainfall is greatly affected by the form of the ground, the southern andwestern hills attracting the rain, which chiefly comes from the S. W. , sogreatly that with a mean annual fall of about 26 inches there is adifference of 3½ inches between that of the river-basin of the Colne onthe W. And that of the river-basin of the Lea on the E. , the formerhaving 28 inches and the latter 24½. The small portion of theriver-basin of the Great Ouse which is within our area has rather lessrain than the average for the county. IV. FLORA AND FAUNA In his _Cybele Britannica_, H. C. Watson divided Britain into eighteenbotanical provinces of which the Thames and the Ouse occupy the whole ofthe S. E. Of England. The greater part of Hertfordshire is in the Thamesprovince and a small portion in the N. Is in that of the Ouse. In Pryor's _Flora of Hertfordshire_, published by the HertfordshireNatural History Society in 1887, which should be referred to for fullinformation on the botany of the county, these botanical provinces areagain divided into districts, the Ouse into (1) Cam, (2) Ivel; and theThames into (3) Thame, (4) Colne, (5) Brent, (6) Lea; both the largerprovinces and the smaller districts thus being founded on the naturaldivisions of a country, drainage areas or catchment basins. In the following brief notes a few of the rarer or more interestingflowering plants of each district are enumerated. 1. _The Cam. _--This is the most northern district. It is almost entirelyon the Chalk and is very bare of trees. The few plants which arerestricted to it are very rare. A meadow-rue, _Thalictrum Jacquinianum_, and the cat's foot (_Antennaria dioica_) occur only on Royston andTherfield Heaths; _Alisma ranunculoides_ and _Potamogeton coloratus_only on Ashwell Common; and of the great burnet (_Poterium officinale_)the sole record is that of a plant gathered near Ashwell in 1840. 2. _The Ivel. _--This district is S. W. Of that of the Cam, and the ChalkDowns of that district are continued through it. Its rarer plants are_Melampyrum arvense_, which occurs only in one spot S. Of Ashwell;_Smyrnium olusatrum_, which has been found near Baldock and Pirton; and_Silene conica_, which was found near Hitchin in 1875. The whitehelleborine (_Cephalanthera pallens_), the dwarf orchis (_Orchisustulata_), and the musk orchis (_Herminium monorchis_) occur on theChalk Downs. 3. _The Thame. _--A very small tongue-like protrusion[a] of the extremeW. Of the county, in which are the Tring Reservoirs. Two of the speciesconfined to the district, _Typha angustifolia_ and _PotamogetonFriesii_, are water-plants which occur only in these reservoirs or inthe canals which they supply. A rare poplar, _Populus canescens_, growsby the Wilstone reservoir, and the man-orchis (_Aceras anthropophora_)on terraces cut in the Chalk near Tring. 4. _The Colne. _--A large district, comprising almost the whole of thewestern portion of the county. _Diplotaxis tenuefolia_, _Silene nutans_, and _Hieracium murorum_ grow only on old walls in St. Albans. ColneyHeath is our only habitat for a very rare loosestrife, _Lythrumhyssopyfolium_, and also for _Teesdalia nudicaulis_, while there is butone other locality, a different one in each case, for four of itsplants, _Radiola linoides_, _Centunculus minimus_, _Cuscuta epithymum_, and _Potamogeton acutifolius_. The pasque-flower (_Anemone pulsatilla_)grows abundantly on the Chalk slopes near Aldbury. The rarer orchids ofthe district are the bog-orchis (_Malaxis paludosa_), the narrow-leavedhelleborine (_Cephalanthera ensifolia_), and the butterfly orchis(_Habenaria bifolia_). 5. _The Brent. _--The smallest district, a protrusion[b] of the county inthe S. Entirely on the London Clay, and chiefly interesting owing to thepresence of Totteridge Green and its ponds. In these ponds grow thegreat spearwort (_Ranunculus lingua_) and the sweet-flag (_Acoruscalamus_), the former, however, not being indigenous. The star-fruit(_Damasonium stellatum_) formerly grew on Totteridge Green, and_Chenopodium glaucum_ at Totteridge, but neither has lately been seen. 6. _The Lea. _--The largest district, comprising the whole of the E. Ofthe county. The London rocket (_Sisymbrium irio_) occurs only in the oldtowns of Hertford and Ware; the true oxlip (_Primula elatior_) near thehead of the River Stort; a very rare broom-rape, _Orobanche cærulea_, atHoddesdon, where it is parasitic on the milfoil; and an almost equallyrare bedstraw, _Galium anglicum_, on an old wall of Brocket Park. A raretrefoil, _Trifolium glomeratum_, is known only at Easneye near Ware; andHatfield Park is our only locality for the water-soldier (_Stratiotesaloides_) except where it has evidently been planted. Two species, usually of rare occurrence, _Polygonum dumetorum_ and _Aperaspica-venta_, are frequent in the district. The indigenous flowering plants of Hertfordshire number 893 species, 679being Dicotyledons and 214 Monocotyledons. If to these be added 199aliens, etc. , the total number of species recorded is brought up to1, 092. The flora is essentially of a southern type, the northern speciesbeing few in number. Owing to the dry soil, xerophiles largely prevailover hygrophiles. _The Ferns_ and their allies the horsetails and clubmosses are not wellrepresented, both the soil and the air of the county being too dry forthem. Another cause for the present scarcity of ferns is the proximityof Hertfordshire to London, for they have been uprooted and taken therefor sale in cart-loads. We have twenty-four species of ferns andfern-allies, but not one really rare. The principal varieties are_Scolopendrium vulgare_, var. _multifidum_; _Athyrium filixfæmina_[c], var. _convexum_; and _Polypodium vulgare_, var. _serratum_. _Equisetumsilvaticum_ is our rarest horsetail; and our only clubmoss is_Lycopodium clavatum_. _The Mosses_ are much better represented than the ferns, 175 specieshaving been recorded. The bog-mosses are represented by sixspecies--_Sphagnum intermedium_, _cuspidatum_, _subsecundum, acutifolium_, _squarrosum_, and _cymbifolium_. _Tetraphis pellucida_occurs in Sherrard's Park Wood, and _Polytrichum urnigerum_ in HitchWood. _Seligeria pusilla_ has been found in an old chalk-pit in BrocketPark, and _S. Paucifolia_ on chalk nodules in the Tunnel Woods nearWatford. _Campylopus pyriforme_ occurs in Berry Grove Wood, Aldenham, and _C. Flexuosus_ in Dawley's Wood, Tewin. Of _the Liverworts_ (_Hepaticæ_) forty-four species are known to occur;and the Stoneworts (_Characeæ_) are represented by seven species--two of_Chara_, two of _Tolypella_, and three of _Nitella_. _The Algæ_ have been pretty fully investigated, especially the_Diatomaceæ_, of the 252 species of Algæ known to occur in the county, 156 belonging to that interesting family of microscopic plants. As anillustration of their minute size it may be mentioned that a single dropof water from the saucer of a flower-pot at Hertford, mounted as amicroscopic slide, was found to contain 200, 000 separate frustules of_Achnanthes subsessilis_, and it was estimated that these occupied onlyone twenty-fifth part of the drop. Both species of _Chlamidococcus_ (theold genus _Protococcus_), _C. Pluvialis_ and _C. Nivalis_ occur; andthe pretty _Volvox globator_ has frequently been found. Of _the Lichens_ much less is known, only sixty-seven species havingbeen recorded. The most noteworthy are _Calicium melanophæum_, found onfir-trees in Bricket Wood; _Peltigera polydactyla_, on moss-coveredground in Oxhey Woods, Watford; _Lecanora phlogina_, in the TunnelWoods, Watford; and _Pertusaria globulifera_, on trees in the same woodsand also in Bricket Wood. As woods in the vicinity of Hertford and ofWatford only have been searched for lichens, our list ought to belargely increased by investigation in other parts of the county. Of _the Fungi_ our chief knowledge is derived from lists of speciescollected at Fungus Forays of the Hertfordshire Natural History Societyand from records of the Mycetozoa by Mr. James Saunders. The number ofspecies recorded for the county is 735, of which fifty-eight are"myxies". Of the Hymenomycetes, or mushroom-like fungi, some verynoteworthy finds have been made, nearly all at Forays of the countysociety. They include two species new to Britain, _viz. _, _Agaricus(Nolania) nigripes_, found in Aldenham Woods, Watford, and _Ag. (Hypholoma) violacea-ater_, in Gorhambury Park, St. Albans (by thepresent writer). Hertfordshire has also furnished the second Britishrecords for _Ag. (Lepiota) gliodermus_ (Broxbourne Woods), _Ag. (Leptonia) euochrous_ (Ashridge Woods), _Ag. (Psathyrella) aratus_(Sherrard's Park, Welwyn), and _Paxillus Alexandri_ (Hatfield Park), this species having first been recorded from Hatfield Park, Essex; andthe second and third British record for _Agaricus (Clytocybe) Sadleri_(Ashridge Park and Cassiobury Park). The very rare _Strombilomycesstrombilaceus_ has been found in Grove Park, Watford, and the stillrarer _Peziza luteo-nitens_ on the Chalk slopes between Aldbury andAshridge Park. Lastly it may be mentioned that Mr. Saunders added the"myxie" _Physarum citrinum_ to the British fungus-flora from specimensfound by him at Caddington and Welwyn. _The Birds_ of Hertfordshire have been carefully observed, and theappearance of rare visitors has been duly recorded. At a lecturedelivered at St. Albans in 1902, Mr. Alan F. Crossman, F. L. S. , F. Z. S. , stated that 212 species had been known to visit the county, andmentioned, _inter alia_, that the kingfisher is more numerous inHertfordshire than formerly, that the heron nested in the county for thefirst time in 1901, and that the appearance of the bearded titmouse hadbeen noticed on but three occasions. During the last forty years thefollowing birds, among others, have been noticed as occasionalvisitants: the storm-petrel (_Procellaria pelagica_), golden oriole(_Oriolus galbula_), whooper-swan (_Cygnus musicus_), snow-bunting(_Plectrophanes nivalis_), greater spotted woodpecker (_Picus major_), black tern (_Hydrochelidon nigra_), great northern diver (_Colymbusglacialis_), herring-gull (_Larus argentatus_), cormorant(_Phalacrocorax carbo_), tufted duck (_Fuligula cristata_), hoopoe(_Upopa epops_), crossbill (_Loxia curvirostra_), sheldrake (_Tadornacornuta_), Guillemot[d] (_Lornvia troile_), Pallas' sandgrouse (_Syrrhaptesparadoxus_), rock thrush (_Monticola saxatilis_), black redstart(_Ruticilla titys_), Dartford warbler (_Silvia undata_), grasshopperwarbler (_Locustella nævia_)[d], waxwing (_Ampelis garrulus_), twite(_Linota flavirostris_), hen harrier (_Circus cyaneus_), buzzard (_Buteovulgaris_), redshank (_Totanus calidris_), greenshank (_Totanuscunescens_) and the little auk (_Mergulus alle_). The lapwing is thought to be increasing in numbers; the writerfrequently observed considerable flocks during his recent rambles in thecounty. Finches are perhaps as numerous in Hertfordshire as in any othercounty of equal size; the large flocks of hen chaffinches that haunt thefarmyards in winter being quite a notable feature. The goldfinch, it isto be feared, is rapidly becoming scarcer; as are also the jay, thewoodcock and other birds much more numerous a few years back. Fieldfaresand redwings visit the county in great numbers from the N. During thewinter; one morning in the winter of 1886 the writer saw many thousandsof fieldfares pass over St. Albans from the direction of Luton. Theredwing, being largely insectivorous, is often picked up dead in thefields when the frost is unusually severe and food proportionallydifficult to obtain. The presence of many woods and small streams attracts a good proportionof the smaller English migrants; the nightingale and the cuckoo areheard almost throughout the county. Moorhens, coots and dabchicks areabundant; the reed-sparrow is heard only in a few districts. Titmice, great, blue and long-tailed, are well distributed. V. POPULATION Comparatively little peculiar to the county is known of the earlyinhabitants of Hertfordshire. They seem from the earliest times to havebeen scattered over the county in many small groups, rather than to haveconcentrated at a few centres. Singularly enough, this almost uniformdispersion of population is still largely maintained, for, unlike somany other counties, Hertfordshire has not within its borders a singlelarge town. The larger among them, _i. E. _, Watford, St. Albans, Hitchin, Hertford and Bishop's Stortford, are not collectively equal inpopulation to even such towns as Bolton, Halifax or Croydon. Anotherfeature to be noted is that, owing to the county's proximity to London, it is now the home of persons of many nations and tongues, and only inthe smaller villages between the railroads are there left any traits oflocal character or peculiarities of idiom. It is hardly necessary to saythat this conglomeration of peoples is common to all the home counties, though mostly so, as I venture to think, in Hertfordshire and Surrey. The Essex peasant is still strongly differentiated from his neighbours. Grose, writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, stated thatthe population of Hertfordshire was 95, 000. They must have been welldispersed, for he tells us that the county contained at that period 949villages; by the word "village, " however, he seems to mean any separatecommunity, including small hamlets. Some interesting figures are to befound in Tymms's _Compendium of the History of the Home Circuit_. Hestates that in 1821 the county contained 129, 714 inhabitants, comprising26, 170 families and living in 23, 687 houses. Of these families no fewerthan 13, 485 were engaged in agriculture. From the same source I quotethe following figures relating to the year 1821:-- Houses. Inhabitants. Hemel Hempstead 1, 012 5, 193 Watford 940 4, 713 Hitchin 915 4, 486 St. Albans 735 4, 472 Cheshunt 847 4, 376 Hertford 656 4, 265 In 1881 the population of the county was 203, 069; in 1891 it hadincreased by about one-eleventh to 220, 162; in 1921 it was 333, 236. In the days of William I. The whole of the possessions and estates ofHertfordshire belonged to the King and forty-four persons who shared hisfavour, amongst whom may be mentioned the Archbishop of Canterbury, theBishops of London, Winchester, Chester, Bayeux and Liseux, and theAbbots of Westminster, Ely, St. Albans, Charteris and Ramsey. To go as far back as the Heptarchy, we find the land mostly owned byMercians, East Saxons and by the Kings of Kent, and thus there graduallysprang up that "Middle English" population which for so long formed alarge proportion of the inhabitants of Hertfordshire, Middlesex and Essex. How thoroughly such persons separated into small communities and settleddown in every part of the county may be ascertained by the many "buries"found at a little distance from the town or village--Redbourn-bury, Ardeley-bury, Bayford-bury, Langley-bury, Harpenden-bury, etc. VI. COMMUNICATIONS 1. _Roads. _--Hertfordshire, as one of the home-counties, is crossed bymany fine roads from the N. E. , E. And N. W. , as they gradually convergetowards their common goal--London. Among them may be mentioned the OldNorth Road, from Royston through Buntingford and Ware to Waltham Cross;the Great North Road from Baldock through Stevenage, Welwyn and Hatfieldto Barnet; and the Dunstable Road through Market Street, Redbourn andSt. Albans, which meets the last-mentioned road at Barnet. [1] We maycontrast these roads at the present day with the rough paths infestedwith robbers existing in the days when the country between Barnet andSt. Albans was little better than a continuous, tangled forest; or evenwith the same roads in the days when Evelyn and Pepys frequently rodealong them--and found them exceedingly bad. The cyclist wishing to ridenorthwards through Hertfordshire has comparatively stiff hills to mountat Elstree, High Barnet, Ridge, near South Mimms, and at St. Albans. Heshould also beware of the descent into Wheathampstead, of the dipbetween Bushey and Watford, and of the gritty roadways in theneighbourhood of Baldock. Most of the roads are well kept, particularlysince they have been cared for by the County Council, and thetraveller's book at the inn usually contains fewer anathemas touchingthe state of the highways than in some other counties which might benamed. [Footnote 1: There has been much dispute as to the exact trend of the"Great North Road". After careful inquiry I believe that the aboveparagraph states the case correctly. Much misunderstanding has doubtlessarisen by confounding the "Old" with the "Great" North Road. ] _Railways. _--Few counties in England are so well served with railroadcommunications; the London and North Western, Midland, Great Northernand Great Eastern running well across its face. _The London and North Western_ enters the county ½ mile N. W. Of Pinner, and has stations on its main route at Bushey, Watford, King's Langley, Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Tring. It crosses the Bedfordshire bordernear Ivinghoe. From Watford it has a branch to Rickmansworth; and toBricket Wood, Park Street and St. Albans; it has also a station atMarston Gate, on its branch line to Aylesbury. _The Midland_ enters the county during its passage through the Elstreetunnel and runs nearly due N. , having stations at Elstree, Radlett, St. Albans and Harpenden. It has also a branch with stations at HemelHempstead and Redbourn. _The Great Northern_ main line crosses a small tongue of the county uponwhich it has stations at Oakleigh Park and New Barnet. It then traversesthe Hadley Wood district of Middlesex, entering Hertfordshire again atWarren Gate, and has stations at Hatfield, Welwyn, Knebworth, Stevenageand Hitchin. From Hatfield it has three branches: (1) to Smallford andSt. Albans; (2) to Ayot, Wheathampstead and Harpenden; (3) to ColeGreen, Hertingfordbury and Hertford. At Hitchin it has a branch toBaldock, Ashwell and Royston. _The Great Eastern_ enters the county at Waltham Cross and skirts thewhole of the S. E. Quarter, running on Essex soil from near the Rye Housealmost to Sawbridgeworth. It has stations in Hertfordshire at WalthamCross, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Sawbridgeworth and Bishop's Stortford. Itenters Essex again near the last-named station. It has also importantbranches, (1) from Broxbourne to Rye House, St. Margaret's, Ware, andHertford; (2) from St. Margaret's to Mardock, Widford, Hadham, Standon, Braughing, West Mill and Buntingford. In addition, the Metropolitan Railway has an extension which crosses theS. W. Extremity of the county, having stations at Rickmansworth andChorley Wood. The Great Northern Railway has a branch from Finsbury Parkto High Barnet, with a station at Totteridge. VII. INDUSTRIES 1. _Agriculture. _--Charles Lamb used no mere haphazard expression whenhe wrote of Hertfordshire as "that fine corn county". Forty years agothe county contained 339, 187 acres under arable cultivation, of whichconsiderably more than half were utilised for corn; and the proportionthus used is still much larger than might be supposed. (In 1897 itamounted to about 125, 000 acres. ) At the same period there were about60, 000 acres under wheat alone; for this grain, of which a large whitevariety is much cultivated, the county has long been famous. To thiscircumstance the village of Wheathampstead is indebted for its name. Barley and oats are also staple crops. The first Swede turnips everproduced in England were grown on a farm near Berkhampstead. Watercressis extensively cultivated, enormous quantities being sent into Londonfrom St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Berkhampstead, Welwyn and many otherdistricts. Much manure is brought to the farms from the London stables, and by its aid large second crops of vegetables are frequently obtained. Clover, turnips and tares may be mentioned among other cropsprominently cultivated. Fruit is also sent to London, particularly fromthe district lying between Tring, Watford and St. Albans, but none ofthe orchards are large. The number of pigs reared in the county is--or was quiterecently--rather above the average (per 100 acres under cultivation) forall England; the number of cattle rather below, and of sheep much below, this average. 2. _Manufactures_ are fairly numerous. (_a_) _Straw Plait_ has for over 200 years been extensively made by handfor the Luton dealers. The wages earned by peasant girls and women inthis employment were formerly high; 100 years ago a woman, if dexterous, might earn as much as £1 a week, but the increase in machinery and thecompetition from foreign plait has almost destroyed this cottageindustry in some districts. During the last four decades several largestraw hat manufactories have been erected in St. Albans, and the tradeenlarged, although the conditions of production are altered. (_b_) _Malting_ is still extensively carried on at Ware, which has beenthe centre of the industry for many years; it is said, indeed, to be thelargest malting town in England. There are nearly 100 malting houses, many of them being beside the River Lea, navigable from this town forbarges W. To Hertford and S. To London. There are extensive _Breweries_at St. Albans, Watford, Hertford, High Barnet, Baldock, Hitchin, Hatfield, Tring, Berkhampstead, and other places. (_c_) _Brick Fields_ are worked at Watford, St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Broxbourne, Bishop's Stortford, Hitchin and elsewhere. (_d_) _Brushes_ of many kinds are manufactured at St. Albans andBerkhampstead. (_e_) _Hurdles_ are made at Barkway, Croxley Green, Breachwood Green, Chorley Wood, Albury, and at one or two other places. (_f_) _Iron Foundries_ are at Hertford, Ippollitts, Royston, ColneValley (Watford), Hitchin and Puckeridge. (_g_) _Paper_ is made at Croxley Mills, King's Langley, and Nash Mills. (_h_) _Silk_ is made at the large mill on the River Ver, St. Albans, andat Redbourn. (_i_) _Photographic plates_, _paper_, etc. , are made at Watford, BorehamWood and Barnet. (_j_) _Lavender Water_ is made at Hitchin, from lavender grown in fieldsclose by. _Gravel_ abounds in many districts, and pits are extensively worked atRickmansworth, Hertford and at Heath, Wheathampstead, Watford andHarpenden. There are _windmills_ at Cromer, Albury, Goff's Oak, Anstey, Arkley, Much Hadham, Weston, Tring and Bushey Heath. _Water mills_ are toonumerous to specify, there being several on many of the small riversnamed in Section II. VIII. HISTORY Hertfordshire was formerly a part of Mercia and of Essex. Its share inwhat is usually called "History" can hardly be called great; but manyinteresting details of its story are recorded in the histories ofChauncy, Salmon, Clutterbuck, and Cussans. Among smaller works thefollowing will be found useful: Cobb's _Berkhampstead_; Gibbs'_Historical Records of St. Albans_; Nicholson's _Abbey of St. Albans_;Bishop's _Hitchin and Neighbourhood_, and _Bygone Hertfordshire_ byvarious writers. The story of Hertfordshire may be said to commence with the sack of thegreat Roman city of _Verulamium_ by the followers of Boadicea, Queen ofthe Iceni[e] (A. D. 61). Our knowledge of the event is largelydrawn from Tacitus, and Dion Cassius, who give revolting details of thetorture of the inhabitants by the Britons. The martyrdom of St. Alban(_circa_ A. D. 304) the Synod of Verulam (429), the seconddestruction of that city by the Saxons towards the end of the sixthcentury and the siege of Hertford by the Danes in 896, when Alfred theGreat grounded their vessels by cutting the river banks, are some of themore prominent episodes of pre-Conquest times. William I. , entering thecounty from the direction of Wallingford, met the Saxon nobles incouncil at Berkhampstead immediately before his coronation atWestminster. The castles of Hertford and Berkhampstead were captured bythe revolted barons. There was a dangerous insurrection of the peasantry in the days ofRichard II. Three important battles were fought in Hertfordshire, duringthe Wars of the Roses: (1) At St. Albans on 23rd (?) May, 1455; (2) onBernard's Heath, St. Albans, 17th February, 1461; (3) near ChippingBarnet, 14th April, 1471; these battles are mentioned more fully in theSections on St. Albans and Barnet. The residence of the Princess Elizabeth at Ashridge Park and hersubsequent captivity at Hatfield up to the time of her accession (1558)may be here mentioned, but the more casual visits of monarchs arereferred to as occasion requires. The county was not the scene of any considerable engagement during thegreat Rebellion; but the Parliamentary troops are held responsible formuch ecclesiastical sacrilege at St. Albans, Hitchin and elsewhere, andit was from Theobalds that Charles I. Set out to meet his army in 1642. In 1647, when a prisoner in the care of Cornet Joyce, he was taken fromLeighton Buzzard to Baldock and from thence to Royston. The march ofCromwell from Cambridge to St. Albans towards the end of the war isrecorded rather too literally on the interior of several churches. Of importance in history was the Rye House Plot (1683), a carefully laidbut abortive scheme to murder Charles II. And James, Duke of York, ontheir way to London from Newmarket. (See Rye House. ) IX. ANTIQUITIES The antiquities of Hertfordshire have been carefully studied and wellrepay the labour that has been bestowed upon them. A few words underseveral heads will suffice to show that the subject is a large one. 1. _Prehistoric. _--_Paleolithic_ man--in whom we are all so interested, but of whom we know so little--must have dwelt in Hertfordshire for along period, a period to be measured by centuries rather than by years. Perhaps, however, the word "dwelt" is hardly appropriate here; fordoubtless, for the most part, the rude flint-shaper and skin-clad hunterroamed at random over this tract of land wherever necessity led him. Itis usual to speak of him as a troglodyte, or cave-dweller, but the cavesof Hertfordshire are, and probably _were_ few, and his life in such adistrict would therefore be more than usually nomadic. As is often thecase, we find traces of him in the river-valleys more frequently thanelsewhere, and it is in beds of clay, conjectured to be of lacustrineorigin, that we find those rudely shapen flint nodules which served himfor tools. Such implements have been found in the Valley of the Gade bySir John Evans, K. C. B. ; in more central neighbourhoods by Mr. Worthington G. Smith; and many axes, knives, etc. , were discovered onlya few years ago near Hitchin. Implements of the _Neolithic_ Age arenaturally more numerous and form in themselves an interesting study inthe evolution of manual skill. Flint axe-heads, wonderfully polished, have been found at Albury, Abbot's Langley, Panshanger and Ware; chippedflints of more fragmentary character have been found near St. Albans andelsewhere; flint arrow-heads were discovered at Tring Grove nearly 170years ago. The great number of natural flints found in the county makeit very difficult to recognise these archæological treasures, many ofwhich must thus escape detection and be destroyed. Some details of thediscovery of Prehistoric implements are given in the Gazetteer. 2. _Pre-Roman. _--The earliest inhabitants of Hertfordshire in times moreor less "historic" were of Celtic blood; these, after a settlement ofconsiderable duration, were driven out by Belgic invaders, of whom theCassii, or Cateuchlani, seem to have been one of the most powerfultribes. The Cassii, who shared at least a part of the district with theTrinobantes, were numerous and war-like when Cæsar invaded Britain;their chief, Cassivellaunus, is believed to have lived near what is nowSt. Albans. He was chosen as leader by the British, and offered stoutresistance to the Romans, but was driven back and his capital--whereverit was--stormed and captured. Earth works, supposed to have been erectedby these Pre-Roman inhabitants, still remain at Hexton, Ashwell, GreatWymondley, Tingley Wood, and elsewhere, but are rapidly disappearing inthe general obliteration of ancient landmarks. Grymes-dyke, still to betraced on Berkhampstead Common, is the most famous; but many others aremarked in a map prepared by Sir John Evans. Some of these are hardlymore than conjectural sites; a few will be mentioned in the Gazetteer. Bronze Celts of many kinds are in the possession of Mr. W. Ransom, F. S. A. ; some of these were found at Cumberlow Green. Relics of theBronze Age in the county include two bracelets of gold found at LittleAmwell; and many narrow hatchets, or palstaves, from the neighbourhoodof Hitchin. To the Late Celtic Period belong the imperfect iron sword-blade, in abronze sheath, discovered at Bourne End and now in the British Museum;also the two bronze helmets, one from the neighbourhood of Hitchin, andone from Tring. At Hitchin, too, was discovered some pottery of the sameperiod. 3. _Roman. _--Hertfordshire formed a part of the Flavia Cæsariensis ofthe Romans--the district E. Of the Severn and N. Of the Thames. Mostimportant of their stations was the municipium at Verulamium (W. Of St. Albans) of which some fragments of wall yet remain in the neighbourhoodof the River Ver and the Verulam Woods; here, too, is the site of theonly Roman theatre known in Britain (of _amphitheatres_ there are manyremains). There were also stations at Cheshunt (Ceaster), at Braughing(ad Fines), at Berkhampstead (Durocobrivis?), at Ashwell, Wilbury Hill, etc. ; there was a cemetery at Sarratt; a sepulchre at Royston. Romanvillas have been unearthed at Purwell Mill, Abbots Langley and Boxmoor. The Roman coins found in the county would, if brought together, form anexceedingly valuable collection. They have been found in considerablenumbers at St. Albans, Ware, Hoddesdon, Hitchin, Willian, Ashwell, Caldecote, Boxmoor, and many other places. Small bronze coins, known as_minimi_, have been recently found at St. Albans, and are now in thecity museum. They date from after the year 345, when the earliestspecimens of this type were struck, and are conjectured to be copies ofcoins issued under Constantius II. (337-61) and Julian the Apostate(361-3). On the obverse is the "Imperial Head"; on the reverse a soldierstriking with his spear at a man on horseback. The coins, however, areassigned by at least one numismatist to a later date. They may haveissued from a Romano-British mint at Verulamium. The famous WatlingStreet entered the county at Elstree and crossed it by way of St. Albansand Redbourn to Dunstable (Beds); the Icknield Way ran N. W. ThroughIckleford, Baldock and Royston; Akeman Street passed through Watford, Berkhampstead and Tring; Ermine Street, entering Hertfordshire atWaltham, passed through Ware and Braughing to Royston. 4. _Saxon. _--A few fragmentary remains at Berkhampstead, Bennington, Offley and Hitchin have been thought to mark the sites of the palaces ofMercian kings; but genuine Saxon remains are scarcely found except, perhaps, among the foundations of a few churches, _e. G. _, St. Michael'sat St. Albans, Standon and Wheathampstead. Mention must however be made of the story, narrated in _Archæologia_, ofthe discovery of the sepulchre of St. Amphibalus at a spot near Redbourncalled the "Hills of the Banners". St. Alban himself appeared to alayman in a vision and told him where the saint's bones were to befound, --indeed, he is said to have himself gone thither to point out thespot. This was during the abbacy of Symon (1167-83). We learn from Rogerof Wendover that the remains of St. Amphibalus were found lying betweenthose of two other men; the bones of seven others were also lying closeby. Among the relics found with the bones of the saint were two largeknives, one of which was in his skull. We know that the holy relics weredeemed worthy of solemn removal to the Abbey of St. Albans; his shrinethere is mentioned in the Gazetteer. In the _Antiquary_ (vol. Xi. ) mention is made of the supposed discoveryof an Anglo-Saxon burial ground in a field near Sandridge. Many bonesand some implements were unearthed, and pronounced by local experts todate from Saxon times. They were buried again by some ignorant person. A bronze brooch, discovered at Boxmoor, has been assigned to "thelatest period of true Anglo-Saxon art". A gold ornament, resembling anarmlet, was found at the village of Park Street, near St. Albans; it isthought to date from A. D. 700-1000. 5. _Churches. _--These will be separately mentioned in due order, especially St. Albans Abbey, the unique meeting ground of all Styles;but a few sentences touching the predominant periods may be permissiblehere:-- _Norman_ work is found in many places; Anstey, Bengeo, Barley, EastBarnet, Graveley, Hemel Hempstead, Little Hormead, and Ickleford arelargely of this period, and Norman features are mingled with later workat Abbots Langley, Baldock, Weston, Great Munden, Great Wymondley, Knebworth, Redbourn, Sarratt, and the churches of SS. Michael andStephen at St. Albans. There are Norman fonts at Broxbourne, Bishop'sStortford (found beneath the flooring in 1869) Anstey, Buckland, Harpenden, Great Wymondley and Standon. _Early English_ churches are at Ashwell, Brent Pelham, Digswell, Furneaux Pelham, Great Munden (Norman doorway), Knebworth, Royston, Stevenage and Wheathampstead. Some of these, _e. G. _, Digswell andKnebworth, are pleasantly situated and others contain features of greatinterest, but on the whole they can hardly boast of much architecturalbeauty. _Decorated_ churches are rarely found without prominent transitionalfeatures, the purest structures dating from that period being those atFlamstead, Hatfield, North Mimms, Standon, and Ware. Early Decoratedportions are noticeable among Norman surroundings at Hemel Hempstead, and among Early English at Wheathampstead; Late Decorated is found withPerpendicular at Hitchin. Standon is the only W. Porch in the county. Flamstead and Wheathampstead are the only churches in the county thathave retained their original vestries, N. Of the chancel. _Perpendicular_ churches are fairly numerous in Hertfordshire. Almostpurely Perpendicular structures are those at Bishop's Stortford, Bennington, Broxbourne, Clothall, Hunsdon, King's Langley, Sandon, St. Peters (St. Albans), Tring and Watford. Churches later thanPerpendicular cannot be mentioned as antiquities. A characteristic feature of Hertfordshire churches--rare elsewhere--isthe narrow tapering _flèche_, or leaded spire; a feature almost whollyabsent is the apse, which is, I believe, present only at Bengeo, GreatWymondley, and Amwell. X. CELEBRATED MEN Comparatively few really famous men have been born in Hertfordshire, butvery many have resided in the county, or have at least been associatedwith it sufficiently to justify the mention of their names here. 1. _Men of Letters. _--Chaucer was clerk of the works at BerkhampsteadCastle in the time of Richard II. ; Matthew Paris, the chronicler, livedand wrote in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans; Sir JohnMaundeville, once called the "father of English prose, " was, accordingto his own narrative, born at St. Albans and, if we may trust an oldinscription, was buried in the abbey;[2] Dr. Cotton, the poet, lived anddied in the same town, where the poet Cowper lodged with him at the"Collegium Insanorum". Bacon lived at Gorhambury and was buried in theneighbouring church of St. Michael. Bulwer Lytton lived and wrote atKnebworth, where he was visited by Forster, Dickens and others. GeorgeChapman translated much of Homer at Hitchin, and is believed to havebeen born in that town. Young, the author of the _Night Thoughts_, wasfor many years Rector of Welwyn; his son was visited there by Boswelland Dr. Johnson. Macaulay was at school at Aspenden. John Scott, theQuaker poet, lived at Amwell; Lee, the dramatist, was born at Hatfield. Skelton probably stayed at Ashridge just before the Dissolution of theMonasteries; Sir Thomas More lived awhile at Gobions, North Mimms. Cowper was born at Berkhampstead. The county has been immortalised byWalton and Lamb in writings known to all. [Footnote 2: As most readers are aware, it is now, to say the least, gravely questioned whether "Sir John Maundeville" was ever more than aname. ] 2. _Divines. _--Bunyan laboured and preached much in Hitchin and itsneighbourhood; Baxter preached at Sarratt and elsewhere, and livedawhile at Totteridge; Isaac Watts lived for many years at Theobalds nearCheshunt; Philip Doddridge was at school at St. Albans. Fox, in his_Journal_, mentions visiting Hitchin, Baldock and other places. Tillotson was a curate at Cheshunt; Ken was born at LittleBerkhampstead; Nathaniel Field, a man of prodigious learning, chaplainto James I. , was born at Hemel Hempstead. William Penn, whom manyconsidered a divine indeed, lived with his beautiful wife at BasingHouse, Rickmansworth; Godwin was an Independent minister at Ware. Ridleyand Bonner were much in the county. Fleetwood, afterwards Bishop ofWorcester, was Rector of Anstey; Cudworth was Vicar of Ashwell; Warhamwas Rector of Barley; Horsley was Rector of Thorley. The two Sherlocks, respectively Master of the Temple and Bishop of London, were Rectors ofTherfield. Lightfoot, the Great Hebraist, was Rector of Great Munden. To classify other celebrities connected with the county would requirealmost as many headings as names. Henry Bessemer was born at Charltonnear Hitchin; Cardinal Wolsey lived at Delamere House, Great Wymondley;the munificent Somers lived at North Mimms; Nicholas Breakspeare, whobecame Pope Adrian IV. , was born at Abbots Langley; Piers Gaveston wasmuch at Berkhampstead and was buried in the priory church at King'sLangley; Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, lived at Theobaldsand is buried at Hatfield; Lords Melbourne and Palmerston lived much atBrocket Hall, where the latter died; Sir Ralph Sadleir, statesman andambassador to Scotland, who is said to have rallied the English atPinkie, lived at Standon and is buried in the church. Many noble or illustrious families have resided in Hertfordshire. Someof the owners of old manors are mentioned in the Gazetteer; but a fewprominent families may be here named. The Cecils have been Lords ofHatfield since James I. Gave the manor to the first Earl of Salisbury inexchange for that at Theobalds. The Cowpers have resided at Panshangersince the erection of their castellated mansion in the Park a centuryago by the fifth earl. The Egertons, Dukes and Earls of Bridgewater, lived at Ashridge; one of them, Francis, third duke, is known in historyas "the father of British inland navigation, " and another was theprojector of the famous _Bridgewater Treatises_. The Capells, Earls ofEssex, have owned the beautiful estate at Cassiobury Park since thefather of the first earl obtained it by marriage during the reign ofCharles I. The Rothschild family have an estate at Tring; Lord Ebury isthe owner of Moor Park; Lord Lytton still owns the grand old house ofthe great novelist at Knebworth, founded nearly 350 years ago. The Earlof Cavan has a house at Wheathampstead; Viscount Hampden at Kimpton Hoo;Earl Strathmore at St. Paul's Walden Bury; the Earl of Clarenden (LordLieut. Of Herts) at the Grove, Leavesden; Lord Grimthorpe lived at St. Albans. Gorhambury, near St. Albans, is the home of the Earl of Verulam. Mgr. Robert Hugh Benson lived and wrote many novels at Hare StreetHouse, near Buntingford. DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY Abbreviations of architectural terms:-- E. E. = Early English. Dec. = Decorated. Perp. = Perpendicular. ABBOTS LANGLEY (1½ mile S. E. Of King's Langley Station) is a village onprettily wooded high ground near the river Gade. It is famous as thebirthplace of Nicholas Breakspeare, who, having vainly endeavoured to beadmitted as a monk in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans, studied at Paris and eventually became Pope Adrian IV. He died in 1158at Anagni; tradition states that he was choked with a fly whilstdrinking. The village probably owes its name, first, to its length, "Langley" signifying a long land; second, to the fact that in the daysof Edward the Confessor it was given to the Abbots of St. Albans byEgelwine the Black and Wincelfled[f] his wife. An entry in _Domesday_records that there were two mills on this manor, yielding 30s. Rentyearly, and wood to feed 300 hogs. The Church of St. Lawrence has nave, aisles and clerestory; a chancel with S. Aisle, and square embattledtower. The windows are mostly Perp. , but those of the S. Aisle are Dec. Note (1) the monument to Lord Chief Justice Raymond, died 1732; (2) thebrasses in nave to Thos. Cogdell and his two wives, 1607, and to RalphHorwode and family, 1478. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. The vicaragewas rated at £10 per annum. An inscription in the chancel, copied inChauncy, reads "Here lieth Robert Nevil and Elizabeth his wife, whichRobert deceased the 28th of April in the year of our Lord God 1475. ThisWorld is but a Vanity, to Day a man, to Morrow none. " Prince Charlesheld a Court at Abbots Langley during the Reign of James I. ALBURY (3½ miles E. Of Braughing Station) is a village near the riverAsh. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, dates from the fourteenthcentury; it was recently restored. There was an earlier structure so farback as the days of Stephen, in whose reign Robert de Sigillo gave theprofits of the church at _Eldeberei_ to Geoffery, first Treasurer of St. Paul's Church, London. An interesting will, dated 4th November, 1589, records that Marmaduke Bickerdy, Vicar of Aldebury, gave an acre of landin the neighbourhood to provide a sum for distribution among the poor onevery Good Friday. In the chancel the mutilated effigies of a man andwoman are said to represent Sir Walter de la Lee and his wife. SirWalter sat in nine Parliaments in the interests of the county--atWestminster, Northampton and Cambridge, and was Sheriff of Herts andEssex. He died during the reign of Richard II. _Albury Hall_, close by, is a fine old mansion, where the "Religeous, Just and Charitable" SirEdward Atkins, Knight, and Baron of the Exchequer, died in 1669. Thevillage is usually a quiet spot, with little business, but it ispleasantly situated; the proximity of the river and some scatteredcottages and farms enhance its attractiveness. _Albury End_ is a small hamlet about 1 mile S. W. Of Albury. [Illustration: THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY] ALDBURY (1½ mile E. From Tring Station) is a village on theBuckinghamshire border, nestled in a beautiful valley close to AshridgePark (_q. V. _). It is the "Clinton Magna" of _Bessie Costrell_, and theauthor of that story, Mrs. Humphrey Ward, lived at _Stocks_, a fewminutes' walk from the village. On the Tring side Aldbury is shelteredby swelling fields and to the E. Beech woods cover the hillside, whichis topped by the "Aldbury Monument, " a granite column about 100 feethigh erected to the memory of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater, whoselabours and enterprise for the extension of canals earned for him thewell-known title "the father of inland navigation". As a village of theOld English type Aldbury has perhaps no equal in the county. In thecentre is the green and pond, under the shadow of an enormous elm; closeby stand the stocks and whipping-post, recently in excellentpreservation. The Church of St. John the Baptist is E. E. ; it wasrestored in 1867. Visitors should notice the old sundial on a pedestalin the churchyard, and the Verney Chapel, which is separated from thenave by a screen of stone, and contains a monument to Sir RobertWhittingham, who was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury. The church alsocontains memorials of the Hides and Harcourts, families who left severalcharities to the poor of the parish. In the days of Edward the Confessorthe manor of _Aldeberie_[g] was held by one Alwin, the king's thane. Theascent of the wooded slope towards the Bridgewater monument takes thevisitor through one of the most beautiful districts in the county, and anoble prospect stretches before him as he looks back through the beechestowards the village in the valley beneath. ALDENHAM (2 miles S. W. From Radlett Station M. R. ) is a villagepleasantly situated near the river Colne, reached by way of Berry Groveat the W. End of the village. The churchyard is locally famous for thetombs of a man and woman named Hutchinson, which, singularly enough, have been riven apart and almost destroyed by three sycamore trees abouta century old. The Church of St. John the Baptist is largely Perp. Withearlier portions, and is worth a visit, if only for the oaken nave-roof, believed to date from about 1480, and for the font of Purbeck marble, probably 750 years old. An object of greater interest in some eyes isthe fine parish chest, formed from one massive piece of oak nearly tenfeet in length, and furnished with iron clamps and hinges of greatsize; there are few finer old parish chests in England. Note also (1)the triple sedilia in chancel; (2) the many brasses dating from 1450, several of which are to the Cary family; (3) two palimpsest brasses inthe vestry, one of which bears a portion of a mutilated inscription toone Long, an alderman of London, who died in 1536. The church wasrestored in 1882 by Sir A. W. Blomfield, F. S. A. _Aldenham House_, property of Lord Aldenham, dates from the days of Charles II. , andstands in a park of about 300 acres. _Aldenham Abbey_, once known as Wall Hall, stands close to the parishchurch; it is about a century old, and belongs to the Stuart family. _Aldwick Farm_ is 1 mile N. E. From Marston Gate Station, L. &N. W. R. _Allen's Green_, a hamlet 2 miles N. W. From Sawbridgeworth, containslittle of interest. _Almshoebury_ (1½ mile W. Of Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) is about fifteenminutes' walk from the ruins of _Minsden Chapel_ (_q. V. _). AMWELL is a tiny hamlet 1 mile S. W. Of Wheathampstead Station, G. N. R. AMWELL, GREAT, a parish and village 1½ mile S. E. Of Ware Station, G. E. R. , is very prettily situated near the New River, and is known byname to many who have never visited the neighbourhood, for the villageis frequently mentioned in the essays and letters of Charles Lamb. Thechurch stands on a wooded slope; near by are the village stocks, thetiny island upon which stands a monument to Sir Hugh Myddelton, theprojector of the New River, and the stone bearing some lines written byJohn Scott, the Quaker. The grotto constructed by the poet may still beseen near the railway station at Ware. The church is an architecturalconglomeration, with several stained windows, one of which wascontributed by the children of the parish as an Easter offering nearlyseventy years ago. The structure was restored in 1866. There is apiscina in the chancel, and one in the S. Wall of the nave; there arealso two hagioscopes. "The chancel arch, " writes Canon Benham, "seems tome Anglo-Saxon, and the chancel is a most curious apse. " Thomas Warner, a friend of Shakespeare, and Isaac Reed, a Shakespearian commentator, were both buried here. _Amwell End_, once at the N. W. Extremity of the parish of Great Amwell, is now a part of Ware (_q. V. _). _Amwell, Little_ (about 1½ mile S. W. From Great Amwell), was formerly aliberty in the parish of All Saints, Hertford; it has formed a separatecivil and ecclesiastical parish since 1864. The Church of Holy Trinityis E. E. In style; it was erected in 1863. The district is now usuallycalled Hertford Heath. An interesting, pleasant ramble may be enjoyed bywalking from Hertford to Little Amwell, Great Amwell, and thence toWare, or _vice versa_. ANSTEY (about 4½ miles N. E. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. ) has acruciform church of mixed styles: the nave is Dec. , the transepts E. E. , the S. Porch Perp. The tower rests upon four Norman arches; the fontalso is Norman. The church was restored in 1871; many features ofarchitectural interest being wisely retained. The recumbent effigy inthe recess in S. Transept is thought to be that of Richard de Anestie, who founded the church in the fourteenth century. We learn from_Domesday Book_ that at the time of the Great Survey there was "pannage"(_i. E. _ acorn woods) at _Anestie_ sufficient to feed fifty hogs, andthat the manor was worth fourteen pounds a year. There was once a castlehere, built soon after the Conquest, the site of which is supposed to bemarked by the remains of a moat still to be traced in the grounds of_Anstey Hall_. The churchyard is entered by a covered lich-gate. _Appleby Street_ is a hamlet 3 miles N. W. From Cheshunt Station, S. E. R. , and about 2 miles N. W. From the village. APSLEY END (about 1½ mile S. From Hemel Hempstead Station, M. R. , and 1¼mile S. E. From Boxmoor Station, L. &N. W. R. ) is an ecclesiastical parishnear the river Gade. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was built in E. Dec. Style in 1871, and is well furnished and decorated. One of theprettiest prospects in the neighbourhood is that from Abbot's Hill, afine private residence, flanked by woods. The Gade and Bulbourne Riversunite, a little N. W. From the village, at a place called _Two Waters_(_q. V. _). _Archer's Green_ is on the river Maran, about ½ a mile S. E. From TewinChurch and 1¾ mile N. W. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. It adjoins_Panshanger Park_ (_q. V. _). ARDELEY, otherwise Yardley (6 miles S. W. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. ), is a village and parish in a purely agricultural district. Itis famous through its connection with the Chauncy family, who resided atArdeley Bury for many generations; one of them, Sir Henry Chauncy, wasthe author of a well-known history of Hertfordshire. The family monumentis outside of the church of St. Lawrence, some existing portions ofwhich date from the thirteenth century. The roofs of nave and aisles arenoticeable for the angels which they bear, of Tudor character; visitorsshould observe, too, the early window in the restored chancel. _ArdeleyBury_, in the days of Sir Henry Chauncy, was an Elizabethan manor-housedating from about the year 1580, surrounded by a moat; it was almostentirely rebuilt of brick in 1815-20, when it became a castellated, imposing mansion. The manor of _Erdeley_ was owned by a succession ofSaxon kings until Athelstan bestowed it upon the church of St. Paul, London, as recorded in Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_; it was of theDean and Chapter that the Chauncys rented their estate. The river Beanerises near here. A stroll around Ardeley and Ardeley Bury leads thevisitor into some of the quietest spots to be found in the county. Thewindmill on the hill above Cromer, near by, is useful as a landmarkwhen threading the many winding lanes in the neighbourhood. ARKLEY (1 mile W. From High Barnet) consists chiefly of a few smallhouses at a spot once called Barnet Common. The view is extensive inevery direction, the village (strictly speaking the chapelry) lying onhigh ground. The chapel of St. Peter was erected in 1840, the stylebeing a variety of Low Gothic; a chancel (E. E. ) was added in 1898, andhas a good groined roof. ASH, river; see Introduction, Section VI. _Ashbrook_ consists of a few cottages and a beer-shop, 1 mile N. E. FromSt. Ippollit's village, and midway between Hitchin and StevenageStations, G. N. R. [Illustration: ASHRIDGE HOUSE] ASHRIDGE is in a beautifully undulating district, immediately N. OfBerkhampstead Common, 1 mile E. From Aldbury Church and about 2 miles E. From Tring Station, L. &N. W. R. The present house, the seat of EarlBrownlow, stands in a park of about 1, 000 acres, well known for the deerwhich are kept there; it was built by the first Earl of Bridgewater, orrather by his architect, Wyatt, in 1808-14. It is a huge structure, itsgreatest width being 1, 000 feet; conspicuous portions are the turretedcentre, some good arched doorways and the large Gothic porch. The sitewas formerly occupied by the palace of Edmund Crouchback, Earl ofCornwall, and by the monastery which he built, adjoining the palace, forthe monks of the Order of Bonhommes, an Order which he himself broughtto this country from France. The earl died here, but his bones weresubsequently removed to Hailes Abbey in Gloucestershire. The housecontains some fine pictures, including, in addition to works by modernmasters, Rubens' "Death of Hippolytus, " Luini's "Holy Family" andTitian's "Three Cæsars". In the chapel is a fine brass to JohnSwynstede, Prebendary of Lincoln, 1395. It was brought here fromEdlesborough Church. ASHWELL is a village of considerable size on the Cambridgeshire border. The village is 2½ miles N. W. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R. The parish isvery ancient, and is believed to have been the site of a Britishsettlement and of a Roman station. The former theory is consideredproved by the existing entrenchments, S. W. From the village, calledArbury Banks; the latter theory is supported by the fact that very manyRoman relics, especially coins, have been discovered in theneighbourhood. That it was formerly a place of importance has beenmentioned in the Introduction (Section V. ); it was a town in Normantimes, and held four fairs each year. The Rhee, a tributary of the Cam, rises in this village, at a spot surrounded by ash trees, and to thisfact the parish is thought to owe its name. When Sir H. Rider Haggardwas at Ashwell recently he was unable to say much for its agriculturalprosperity and outlook; but in Chauncy's day the district produced "allsorts of excellent Grain, especially Barley, which has greatlyencouraged the trade of Malting in this Borrough". The same writermentions the stone quarry, from which he tells as that severalneighbouring churches had been built or repaired. The Church of St. Marythe Virgin is mostly E. E. And is conspicuous for its spire-toppedwestern tower, 176 feet high, being equal to the length of the church. Note (1) the large ambry in the S. Aisle, once the lady-chapel, where isalso a fragmentary reredos; (2) the curious inscriptions on the innerside of the tower walls, mostly undecipherable, one of which refers tothe plague that attacked the town in the fourteenth century; (3) thereally fine oaken pulpit, dating from the year 1627. There was formerlya small monastic house in the town, a cell to Westminster Abbey. Fromthe village it is an open, breezy walk N. To Ashwell Common or S. E. ToAshwell Field, between the village and the station. ASPENDEN (1 mile S. W. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. ) may be reachedfrom the Old North Road by turning to the left before enteringBuntingford. It is a small, quiet, unimportant village; but much of itis picturesque and interesting. Readers will remember that Macaulay wasat school here, and that it was the birthplace of Seth Ward, mathematician and bishop, a contemporary and antagonist of ThomasHobbes. The church is a flint structure, --a conglomeration of manystyles. Notable features are the Easter sepulchre in the N. Wall ofchancel, the Norman window close to it, the piscina, ambry and credencetable, discovered during the restoration of the church by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1873. There are also memorial windows to members of theLushington family, and an altar tomb, under a canopy of marble, to "SirRobert Clyfford" (d. 1508), who built the church porch in 1500, and tohis wife Elizabeth. The tomb bears brass effigies of these worthies, which were once in the Church of St. Michael, Cornhill, but were broughtto Aspenden at the time of the fire of London. The aisle (S. ) was builtby Sir Ralph Jocelyn in 1478. This Sir Ralph was lord of the manor; heis remembered in history for his sally against Thomas Nevill, when thatadventurer attempted to rescue Henry VI. From the Tower. He was twiceLord Mayor of London (1464 and 1476). He died in 1478 and was buried atSawbridgeworth. ASTON (2¼ miles N. E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) has an ancientchurch restored in 1883. There is E. E. Work in parts of nave andchancel, but other portions are largely Perp. , especially the tower, which is embattled. The alabaster reredos and several memorial windowsare worth notice; nor should visitors overlook the brass at the foot ofthe chancel steps to one John Kent, his wife and ten children. Thisworthy died in 1592; he was a servant of Edward VI. , Mary and Elizabeth. The village is scattered upon a hill a little W. From the river Beane, and dates from Saxon times. The manor was once owned by three men underthe protection of Archbishop Stigand; afterwards by the Abbot ofReading. It fell to the Crown at the Dissolution, like so many otherproperties. _Aston Bury_ is a fine manor house of red brick, about ¾ mile S. Fromthe village, formerly the property of the Boteler family. The prospectfrom the N. Windows is a noble one, the district being varied andundulating. _Aston End_, a hamlet 1 mile N. W. From Aston, may be reached fromStevenage Station, G. N. R. , about 2½ miles. There is little here ofinterest, but the neighbourhood is very pleasant and largelyagricultural. _Astrope Hamlet_ (½ mile E. From Puttenham) is midway between thevillage of Long Marston and the Aylesbury Canal. It is close to theBucks border. _Astwick Farm_ is 2 miles N. W. From Hatfield Station, G. N. R. _Attimore Hall_ is 1½ mile S. W. From Welwyn Station, G. N. R. _Aubrey Camp_ (¾ mile S. W. From Redbourn) is conjectured to be the siteof an early British encampment. _Austage End_ lies in the parish of King's Walden, in a purelyagricultural district. _Ayot Green_ is about ½ mile S. E. From and in the parish of Ayot St. Peter's (_q. V. _). AYOT ST. LAWRENCE (2½ miles N. E. From Wheathampstead Station and aboutthe same distance N. W. From Ayot Station, G. N. R. ) has a new and an oldchurch. The former is in Ayot Park, and was designed by Revett in aclassical style. Note (1) the _Eastern_ portico, with colonnade oneither side; (2) the memorial to Sir Lionel Lyde, Bart. (d. 1791), andto the architect of the church (d. 1804). The earlier structure, stillin ruins near the middle of the village, was Dec. Of an early period, with several singular features; the tower, however, was Perp. "TheWindows . .. Have been adorn'd with curious Pictures, in stained andpainted Glass, beyond many other Churches. " The village has at differenttimes been styled Eye, Aiot, Great Aiot, and Ayot St. Lawrence, and wasa parcel of the property of Harold Godwin. _Ayot House_, standing in abeautiful park of 200 acres, was once the property and residence of SirWilliam Parr, brother to Catherine Parr, Queen of Henry VIII. A room inan older building in the rear of the present mansion was once, accordingto local tradition, the prison of Catherine Parr. There are shoes atAyot House which belonged to Anne Boleyn and a hat of Henry VIII. AYOT ST. PETER'S (¼ mile N. From Ayot Station, G. N. R. ) lies in a prettydistrict watered by the rivers Maran and Lea. The village is small, buthas a commodious Parish Room, containing a small library. There was amill here in the time of the Great Survey, the rent of which was threeshillings and 200 eels from the mill-pool per annum. A church, bearing"a short spire erected upon the tower, " stood on the hill-top inChauncy's day; in 1751 an octagonal structure of red brick was built bythe rector (Dr. Freeman) some distance from the village. This church wasdemolished in 1862 and a new one built upon its site; in 1874 thiswas in turn destroyed by lightning, and in 1875 the present church ofSt. Peter, E. E. In style, was erected much nearer to the village. Itcontains a very fine pulpit, carved by Miss Bonham, of Norwood, uponwhich the figures of SS. Alban and Helen are conspicuous among others. There are several memorial windows, tastefully designed, one of which, to the memory of Mrs. I. A. Robinson, was designed by the architect (J. P. Seddon). A delightful stroll may be taken from the village, westwardsto Wheathampstead or Lamer Park, or northwards to Codicote or Kimpton. Nightingales are plentiful in the neighbourhood; the numerous thickets, dense and secluded, affording excellent shelter to this shy songster. _Baas Hill_ is ¾ mile W. From Broxbourne Station, G. E. R. _Babb's Green_ (nearly midway between Mardock and Widford Station, G. E. R. ) is a small hamlet. _Baker's Grove_ is 1½ miles S. W. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. [Illustration: OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK] BALDOCK, a small town in the northern extremity of the county, liesbetween the chalk hills at the junction of the Great North Road and theRoman Icknield Way. The malting industry is still busily pursued, although the town is not so exclusively devoted to it as formerly. Veryfine barley was grown in the district before the reign of Elizabeth, andthe horse fairs, of which there are several annually, are well attended. The township was founded by the Knights Templars, in whose time therestood a Lazar-house a little eastwards from the town. The church, dating from the fourteenth century, is large, and of considerablearchitectural interest. The chancel and adjoining chapels are Perp. Andcontain sedilia and piscinæ; the nave has eight bays and a loftyclerestory. The rood-screen is co-extensive with the width of the entirechurch; the octagonal font is of great antiquity (probably not less than700 years); there are several brasses, two of which are of the earlypart of the fifteenth century. Note also (1) the defaced slab, withLombardic inscription to Reynaud de Argenthem, (2) the piscina-likerecess in the N. Chapel, (3) the Dec. Pillars and arches of nave, (4)the fine old chest near rood-screen (N. Chapel). Baldock has been therecipient of many bequests; existing charities are in the name of Roe, Wynne, Pryor, Cooch, Clarkson, Smith, Parker, and a few others, thewhole aggregating a considerable annual sum. The Wynne Almshouses are inthe spacious High Street, where are also the fine town hall and firestation, erected in 1896-7. Some side streets between the church andstation are noticeable for the variety of cottage architecture whichthey display. BARKWAY (4 miles S. E. From Royston station, G. N. R. ) was a village ofsome importance in the old coaching days, for it is on the main roadfrom Ware to Cambridge. It was partly burnt in 1592. There are manyquaint houses in the neighbourhood, and one or two inns seem to stillretain something of the atmosphere of the old régime. Near the village, at a spot called Rokey Wood, a small bronze statue of Mars wasdiscovered some years ago. It is of Roman workmanship and is now in theBritish Museum. Cyclists riding northwards or eastwards from Barkwaywill find many hills to test their powers; but the air is exceptionallygood and the district decidedly worth visiting. The church (flint, withstone quoins) is Perp. With embattled and pinnacled western tower; itwas restored in 1861. Several memorials are worth noticing: (1) marblesarcophagus, with bust by Rysbrach, to Admiral Sir John Jennings (d. 1743); (2) brass on N. Wall, found in the flooring during restoration, to Robert Poynard (d. 1561), his wives Bridget and Joan, and his fourdaughters; (3) monuments to Chester and Clinton families in chancel. Theonce annual Pedlars' Fair has been discontinued; as has also the Tuesdaymarket, which dated from the days of Henry III. In Saxon times thevillage was called Bergwant, _i. E. _, the way over the hill. BARLEY, a village on the Essex border, is 2 miles N. E. From Barkway, andlies on the same high road. The Church of St. Margaret was restored in1872, in fourteenth century Gothic, but the tower, which is Norman, still stands. During the restoration some curious jars, of ancient make, were found in the chancel walls, but were broken in the efforts todislodge them. There is a brass to Andrew Willet, D. D. , rector of theparish and author of _Synopsis Papismi_ (d. 1621). Some interesting data for a book on the antiquities of Barley arepreserved in the pre-Reformation "Parish Hutch". I may mention the"towne house . .. Tyme out of mynde used and employed for the keeping ofmaides' marriages, " and the "Playstoe" or "common playinge place for theyounge people and other inhabitants of the said towne". This "townehouse" may still be seen near the church. _Barleycroft End_ is S. E. From Furneaux Pelham (_q. V. _). It almostadjoins that village. BARNET, EAST (½ mile from Oakleigh Park Station, G. N. R. ) is surroundedby Middlesex except to the N. W. Where it adjoins New Barnet. The oldvillage is situated at the meeting of the roads from High Barnet, Southgate and Enfield. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin is veryinteresting; it stands on the hill-top, at a sharp bend in the road, about ½ mile S. From the village. It is said to have been founded aboutthe year 1100 by an abbot of St. Albans; if this date is approximatelycorrect this abbot must have been Richard d'Aubeny or de Albini, whoruled the great monastery from 1097 to 1119, and in whose day the wholemanor (including Chipping or High Barnet) belonged to the Abbey of St. Albans. The structure is Early Norman, with a western tower of brick, through the lower portion of which the church is entered. The N. Wallis probably the most ancient church wall in this part of the county. There is a lich-gate at the N. Entrance to the churchyard. A son ofBishop Burnet, the historian, was once rector here, and is buried in thechurch. Tradition states that Thomson the poet was tutor to the son ofLord Binning when that nobleman lived at the old Manor House, the siteof which is now a part of the rectory garden. Near the church, too, stood once a house in which Lady Arabella Stuart was confined. _BelmontHouse_ (C. A. Hanbury, Esq. , D. L. , J. P. ) marks the site where stoodMount Pleasant, once the property of the Belted Will Howard, Warden ofthe Western Marches, referred to in the "Lay of the Last Minstrel". _Little Grove_, a house on Cat Hill (Mrs. Stern), stands where stoodformerly the house of the widow of Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart. , Ambassador to Spain in the reign of Charles I. The whole neighbourhoodis varied and undulating; the eastern extremity of the parish touchedthe confines of Enfield Chace until late in the eighteenth century. BARNET, HIGH (formerly "Chipping Barnet" from the market granted byHenry II. To the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday), stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N. W. From London, and 9 miles S. E. From St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots ofSt. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worthrepeating: "Anno 18, Edw. I. , the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton, 24th Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch andburning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at _Bernet_; RichardTykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosedhis Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there, could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, theydid lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to haveCommon there; but 'twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to haveCommon; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering onlyfor that he burnt the Hedge. " Other squabbles between abbot and peasantare referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The ParishChurch of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads fromLondon, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A churchstood upon the spot so long ago as _circa_ 1250, to which a detachedtower was added about a century later. The body of this structure wasalmost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including thetower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). Thepresent church is the result of the restoration and enlargement underthe direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and workedstone, partly Dec. And partly Perp. The old tower was loweredsufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled towerwas built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The presentN. Aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays;most of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuarychapel, adjoining the S. Transept, contains many monuments, the mostconspicuous being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble toThomas Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Othermemorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed thealmshouses in Wood Street near by, called _Jesus' Hospital_, and to JohnRavenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen, pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures ofmen famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers ofstone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed tomembers of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly achapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church, dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands inUnion Street: it was built in 1850. On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as"Barnet Wells"; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys' _Diary_, and more fully praised in _The Perfect Diurnall_ (1652) and _The BarnetWell Water_ (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen, an alderman of London, provided £1 to be spent yearly in keeping thewell in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early inSeptember, is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England andScotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainlyone of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattlemarket is held each Wednesday. BATTLE OF BARNET. --Of this engagement, so familiar by name, very littleis known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward IV. , assistedin his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, whither he hadfled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. Of England withreinforcements from Louis XI. ; touched, after a difficult passage, atCromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, andfinally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined byfurther followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, theLancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces, and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or GledsmuirHeath, to the N. W. Of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement wasdesperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying successthat some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the daywith the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, wasnot the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered overthe battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mistand confusion, and that this led to the death of Warwick. It is supposedthat the "King Maker" fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley HighStone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but wasremoved nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute, brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot. BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, beingsituated between the two. Indeed, the whole of "Barnet" is now almostmerged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley HighStone to a little S. From Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasantthoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G. N. R. , to the mainroad from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent groundfor the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverseschools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between therailway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parishcalled Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter's Road, stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held fortwenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. _Lyonsdown_, anecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high groundS. W. From the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detachedresidences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a goodview, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, NewSouthgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the Holy Trinity, erected in 1864, is Dec. And contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M. Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. And S. Porches, good of theirkind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed. _Barwick Ford_ is on the river Rib, about 2½ miles N. W. From Hadham and3 miles S. W. From Standon Stations, G. E. R. _Bassett's Green_ (1 mile S. E. From Walkern Church) is a small hamletbetween Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway stationnearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G. E. R. , and Stevenage, G. N. R. , beingeach about that distance. _Batchworth_ is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L. &N. W. R. , atthe N. W. Extremity of Moor Park (_q. V. _). _Batchworth Heath_, 1½ mile S. E. From Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesexborder. _Batlers Green_ (¾ mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S. W. From thestation, M. R. ) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than afew scattered cottages and farms. BAYFORD (3 miles S. W. From Hertford) is a parish and village on risingground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E. E. In design, with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq. , in1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained glass. Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton (d. 1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in half-armourand the other a figure in plate-armour and ring-mail skirt, of which theage is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the churchyard liesWilliam Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. At Yarmouth, 1856). BAYFORDBURY stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine cedars andpines, a little N. From the village. It is the seat of the lord of themanor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq. , J. P. The house was originally erectedby an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here are the portraitsof most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by Sir GodfreyKneller; the MS. Of the first book of _Paradise Lost_, and a collectionof letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to America. _Bedmond_, or _Bedmont_, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1mile N. From the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N. E. FromKing's Langley Station, L. &N. W. R. _Bedwell Plash_ is a hamlet 1 mile S. E. From Stevenage. _Beeson's End_ is pleasantly situated near the S. Extremity of HarpendenCommon, and about 1¾ mile nearly due E. From Redbourn Station, M. R. _Bell Bar_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman'sPark, and about 2½ miles N. From Potter's Bar Station, G. N. R. (Middlesex). _Bendish_ lies on high ground, 2½ miles S. W. From St. Paul's Walden(_q. V. _). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S. W. BENGEO (¾ mile N. From Hertford) is a village between the rivers Beaneand Rib; Ware Park is close by (N. E. ). It is now in the borough ofHertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early Norman;there are very few churches of older foundation in Hertfordshire. It wasrestored at several times between 1884 and 1893. The bell in the woodencote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides the nave from thechancel; there are lancets and a Perp. Window in the apse. The monumentsare mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron Reay, is buried in thetiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the hillside in 1855, is ofKentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by Tinworth in the reredos. The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the sandy warren-hills, sobeautifully clad with fir, larch, etc. , with the Lea winding through thelow meadows on the left, is one of the finest in the county. BENGEO (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the above. Nearby, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for boys. _Bennett's End_ is the name of two small hamlets, one near LeverstockGreen (_q. V. _) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (_q. V. _). BENNINGTON (4½ miles N. E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) was once theresidence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood arepicturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet wherea tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1mile to the W. The church is at the S. End of the village; it dates fromthe fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrowchancel has a chapel on the N. Side. The tower is embattled, andcontains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls ofcarved oak in the chancel; what was _once_ a holy water basin is in theporch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross;(2) the memorial to the Cæsar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tombof Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in thetime of Edward II. , as we learn from Dugdale's _Monasticon_; (4) Carvedoak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands onthe site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote twocenturies back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in850. _Bennington Park_ (1¼ mile E. ) is one of three deer parks inHertfordshire which figured in _Domesday Book_. BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. Of the county, issituated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as thebirthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26thNovember, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L. &N. W. R. , dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to finda castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, althoughof considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the planof this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N. W. , but triple elsewhere. Henry II. Held a court here; and the castle was attimes the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The BlackPrince was a visitor here during his father's reign. The Church of St. Peter, on the N. Side of the High Street, is by local authoritiesclaimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving onlySt. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary's, Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating frompre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of HenryIII. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; thatcalled "St. John's Chantry" dates from about 1350. Among many otherfeatures of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries;(2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass;(3) the E. Window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to AnnCowper, the poet's mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the BlackPrince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II. ; (7)mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d. 1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. Transept. During the restoration ofthis transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered. [Illustration: CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD] The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly forthis reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as themaking of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, armytent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church, to the S. Of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house, in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called "Cowper'sWell, " may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics'Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by theJohn Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to haveresided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meetat _Berghamstedt_ in 697. BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. ), hasa stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It has a woodenbelfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but containslittle of architectural or historical interest. There are, however, several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, bornin the parish in 1637. On a hill N. E. From the church stands the tallred-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as itis said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames. The tower has been called "Stratton's Folly". _Bernard's Heath. _ (See St. Albans. ) _Betlow_ is a lordship of Long Marston (_q. V. _) [Illustration: BISHOP'S STORTFORD] BISHOP'S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. Of the county and on the Essexborder. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over theriver Stort, and from the fact that William I. Gave the town to Maurice, Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the lateCecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of WaytemoreCastle, built by William I. , is on a mound near the road to Hockeril, where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The churchof St. Michael on Windhill is Perp. ; it was restored in 1859. There wasa former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring often fine bells. Chauncy's book has an interesting paragraph about thischurch. "Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyldof St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist;to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, _viz. _, to the twoformer 13s. 4d. A piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars, and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed;but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. And theSettlement thereof cost much Money. " Chancel and nave are separated by ascreen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during therestoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. Aisle. Theclerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancelfloor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), "a maid of honour inordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory". There isalso a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increasedthe facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigableby barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which ismarket-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in oldtimes a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from thetown. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; goingdown Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him, and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of thefinest old inns in Herts. BOREHAM WOOD (1¼ mile N. E. From Elstree) is a large and rather prettilysituated hamlet. _Bourne End_, 1 mile W. From Boxmoor Station, L. &N. W. R. , contains littlemore than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside theGrand Junction Canal. BOVINGDON (2½ miles S. W. From Boxmoor Station) is a large village, builton the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village being in thedepression between them. The church dates from the end of the eleventhcentury, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with pinnacled W. Tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the tower, datingfrom perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) brasses to theMayne family (1621-42). Some traces of a Roman encampment and villa areshown on inquiry at a spot near the village. _Bowman's Green_ (¼ mile N. E. From London Colney and 2 miles S. FromSmallford Station, G. N. R. ) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and thehigh road from Barnet to St. Albans. BOXMOOR is a village about 1½ mile S. W. From Hemel Hempstead. The GrandJunction Canal flows between the village and the town. From the station, L. &N. W. R. , a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. Many Romanremains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly some remainsof two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of Diocletian. Thechurch, erected in 1874, is E. E. In design, and was planned by Mr. Norman Shaw. It has N. And S. Aisles and porches. There was an earlierstructure on the same site. Private residences are increasing so rapidlythat the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel Hempstead. _Boydon's Hill_ adjoins the village of Aldenham. _Bragbury End_ (1¼ mile E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamleton the Great North Road. BRAMFIELD OR BRAINTFIELD (3½ miles N. W. From Hertford Station, G. N. R. )is a parish and village. The church is E. E. , standing on the site of anearlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in 1840, and thechurch itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of Westminsterthat Thomas Becket held the living here as his first charge; a pond nearthe church is called "Becket's Pond". _Queen Hoo Hall_, N. W. From thevillage, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an Elizabethan residence, and gave the title to a romance partly written by Sir Walter Scott. Theneighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may be taken either N. E. To Woodhall Park or S. To Panshanger Park. _Brandley Hill_ is 1 mile N. W. From Aston. BRAUGHING has a station ¾ mile S. W. From the town, on the BuntingfordBranch of G. E. R. It is an ancient parish, the "Brachinges" of _DomesdayBook_, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets of which thevillage consists are very picturesquely scattered on the S. W. Slope of ahill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of the Roman ErmineStreet and the road from Bishop's Stortford to Baldock. There wasformerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; also anannual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to thehand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp. , and contains a fewbrasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored onseveral occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modernworkmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen;(2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old fontoutside, near the tower. At _Cockhampstead_ (1½ mile E. From the church)was once an Augustinian priory. _Breachwood Green_ (about 3½ miles N. E. From Luton Hoo Station, G. N. R. , and 1 mile S. From King's Walden Church) is a village on high groundrather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks maybe taken S. E. To Bendish or S. W. To Chiltern Green. BRENT PELHAM (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. From Buntingford)is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham because, astradition states, both village and church were destroyed by fire duringthe reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days of Norden(_circa_ 1548-1626). The church--near which the old stocks may still beseen--is E. E. , with the embattled western tower so frequent in Herts. Itis locally famous for a tomb in the N. Wall, said to mark theresting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in thetime of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which havebeen the subject of diverse interpretations. _Pelham Hall_ (E. E. Barclay, Esq. ), "a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, nearthe Church, " was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once ownedby the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are severalmemorials in the church. _Brickendon_ is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. Thereare some imposing residences in the neighbourhood. BRICKET WOOD is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and Watford;it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive wood andcommon, crossed by L. &N. W. R. The station is ½ mile from the "wood, "which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. Thedistrict is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist. _Broadfield_ (2¼ miles N. W. From Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered, on the hill N. From that village. The hall was once a much largerstructure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. I. ); it was in part rebuilt in1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenthcentury. _Broadwater_ is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage, Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (1¼ mile S. ). _Broadway_ (1½ mile S. E. From Berkhampstead) has a Dec. Chapel-of-easeto the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one tothe ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border. _Bromley_ (1½ mile S. E. From Standon Station, G. E. R. ) is a small hamlet. _Broomin Green_ (¾ mile S. W. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamletnear the railway and ½ mile from the Six Hills. (See Stevenage. ) [Illustration: BROXBOURNE CHURCH] BROXBOURNE, a large village near the river Lea and New River, is afavourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground overlookingthe mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. Structure, dating from early in thefifteenth century. The N. Chancel-chapel was built by Sir William Say, "in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522"; his tomb is inthe chancel. The church was restored in 1857; the roof is of fine oakpanelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early Norman. Thereare brasses to a priest holding a chalice (_circa_ 1470); to anotherpriest in robes (_circa_ 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace bearer toHenry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife (d. 1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies ofSir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms incentre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From thechurch a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, toHoddesdon, by way of "Admiral's Walk, " or beside the Lea past thegrounds of the Crown Hotel. _Broxbournebury_ (Major G. R. B. Smith-Bosanquet, J. P. ) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W. , and is alarge imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on theLondon Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number ofroses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in thecounty. BUCKLAND (3 miles N. From Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has an E. E. Church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at the E. Endof the S. Aisle marks the site of what was formerly the lady-chapel. Thefont is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a roughly hewnmass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. Wall of the chancel wasopened out during some renovations, and is thought to have beenconnected with a confessional, as a coloured figure of the Virgin wasdiscovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as purelymythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the church(d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony (d. 1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior wasrestored in 1875; the new W. Door, of oak, was added in 1881. _Buck's Hill_ (2 miles S. W. From King's Langley Station, L. &N. W. R. ) is apretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 1¼ mile N. E. AtChipperfield (_q. V. _). BULBOURNE, river. (See Introduction. ) _Bull's Green_ is 2¼ miles N. E. From Welwyn Station, G. N. R. _Bull's Mill_ is 2½ miles N. From Hertford. BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-CambridgeRoad, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few smallby-ways, E. By the river side, and W. On the roads to Aspenden andCottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St. Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (_q. V. _). An oldbrass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine servicein the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward(see Aspenden); the almshouses a few yards W. Were founded by him in1684. "This town, " wrote Chauncy, "is of small antiquity, for there isno mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of itbefore Anno. 21. Edwd. III. , when that King did grant one Market everyWeek, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo andher Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d. " At the N. End of HighStreet is the old pound. _Corney Bury_ (½ mile N. ) is a fine old manorhouse. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but aramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint innsand cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn. _Burnham Green_ is a hamlet 1¼ mile N. E. From Welwyn Station, G. N. R. _Bury Green_ (1½ mile W. From Cheshunt Station, G. E. R. ) is a smallhamlet near Theobald's Park; also _Bury Green_, a hamlet 2½ miles W. From Bishop's Stortford. _Bury Hill and Bury Mill. _ (See Hemel Hempstead. ) _Bury Stede. _ (See Hexton. ) _Bush Barrow_ is 1¼ mile N. From Wallington, on Metley Hill, midwaybetween the village and the Icknield Way. BUSHEY is a large village, now practically the S. E. Suburb of Watford. The station (L. &N. W. R. ) is in the hollow between the village itself andHigh Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent towardsthat town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and pond, andhere stands the partly Dec. Church of St. James, rebuilt in 1871 by SirGilbert Scott. The E. E. Window, triple lancet, is to the memory ofEdwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas Titus, whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the notoriouspamphlet _Killing noe Murder_, was born at Bushey and buried in thischurch; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard. BUSHEY HEATH (1 mile S. E. From the above) is on the Middlesex border. Itis now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the church, an E. E. Brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added in 1882. Thedistrict is very healthy. _Bushey, Little_, is E. From Bushey Heath, which it almost joins. _Bushey Mill_ is on the river Colne, ¾ mile N. E. From Watford Junction. _Butchery Green. _ (See Hertford. ) BYGRAVE (1¾ mile N. E. From Baldock Station, G. N. R. ) has a small churchbuilt of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from perhaps1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor to aformer rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in chancel. Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats constructedfive centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John Thornbury, becauseof the many marauders that infested the neighbourhood. The place wasonce a market-town; the market, granted by Henry III. , was held eachMonday. The village lies on high ground, a few minutes' walk N. From theIcknield Way. CALDECOTE (about 3 miles N. N. E. From Baldock Station, G. N. R. ) has aPerp. Church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finelycanopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480. _Caldicot Hill_ is 1 mile E. From Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border. CASSIOBURY PARK. (See Watford. ) _Catlip_ is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met. R. _Chandler's Cross_ (2½ miles S. W. From King's Langley Station, L. &N. W. R. ) is a small hamlet. _Chapmore End_ is 2½ miles N. From Hertford. _Chelsing_ is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. From Ware. _Cherry Green_ (1 mile S. W. From West Mill Station, G. E. R. ) is a smallhamlet. CHESHUNT, according to Grose's _Antiquities_, the _Durolitum_ ofAntoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Itsancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that itwas a Roman station. [3] At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G. E. R. , isan urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago, and is probably of Roman manufacture. Cheston, yet another old name ofthis spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees onceplentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built. William I. Gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and itremained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III. Granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Churchof St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held theliving of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp. , entirely embattled;the W. Tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effectedduring 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern andpulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are verynumerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to theabove-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d. 1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel toRobert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows ofstained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860), and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parishclerk. N. From the main street, near the river Lea, stood a smallBenedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele, but Henry III. Turned them out and gave the property and rights to the"Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont". The college, a famous institution, stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, Countess ofHuntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed toCheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church ofEngland, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site ofPengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mileN. ) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The GreatHouse, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of CardinalWolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved. [Footnote 3: Chauncy writes: "This Vill in old Records was calledCestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability, import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitatingthe name, though corruptly . .. Might from hence call it Cestrehunt". ] CHESS, river. (See Introduction. ) _Cheverell's Green_ (1½ mile N. W. From Flamstead, and about 4 miles N. W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) is a small hamlet and green adjoiningBeechwood Park. _Childwick Green_ is 1 mile S. From Harpenden Common, and 2½ miles N. From St. Albans. CHIPPERFIELD (2½ miles W. From King's Langley Station, L. &N. W. R. ) wasmade an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church on the common, E. E. In style, built in 1837, is of little interest. There is a goodlich-gate at the N. Entrance to the churchyard. The neighbourhood ispleasant and varied. _Chipping_ (2 miles N. From Buntingford) is a small village on theRoyston Road. _Chivesfield (or Chesfield)_ is 2 miles N. E. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykinswas rector here as early as 1323. The windows were partly destroyed in1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy's day, and arementioned in the second volume of his _Antiquities_. [Illustration: CHORLEY WOOD COMMON] CHORLEY WOOD, a village 2½ miles N. W. From Rickmansworth, has a stationon the Met. R. Near the Amersham Road. The church, E. E. In style, datesfrom 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the Quaker, was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley of theChess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (_q. V. _). _Church End_ is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. FromBraughing Station, G. E. R. _Clapgate_, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End. _Clay End_ (1½ mile S. E. From Walkern) is about equidistant--5miles--from Stevenage or Westmill Stations. _Clay Hill_ is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath(_q. V. _). CLOTHALL (2¼ miles S. E. From Baldock) has an interesting church, chieflyPerp. , on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the chancel to JohnVynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to John Wright, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. 1519). On theS. Of the church is a small Dec. Chantry chapel. Note also a sixteenthcentury brass to the wife and sixteen children of William Bramfield ofClothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley Hall, becauseit stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to the E. _Cockernhoe Green_ is 2½ miles S. W. From Offley, and 2½ miles N. E. FromLuton Station (Beds). _Cockhampstead_ (2 miles N. E. From Braughing Station, G. E. R. ) is nearAlbury Hall. CODICOTE (3 miles N. W. From Welwyn Station, G. N. R. ) is a large villageon the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. The Churchof St. Giles is an ancient structure, E. E. , restored in 1853; it standsin a field ½ mile N. From the village. The S. Chapel dates from 1312. The embattled W. Tower is a fine structure. There are several memorialwindows, comparatively modern. COLE GREEN has a station on the G. N. R. Branch line from Hatfield toHertford. From the station little is to be seen except the Cowper's Armsand a few cottages. _Coleman's Green_ (1½ mile S. E. From Wheathampstead Station, G. N. R. ) isprettily situated near the "Devil's Dyke" and Brocket Hall. John Bunyansometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing aninscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed. _Collier's End_ is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S. W. From Standon Station, G. E. R. It is a very typical English hamlet. COLNE, river. (See Introduction. ) COLNEY HEATH (1 mile S. From Smallford Station, G. N. R. ) is anecclesiastical parish. The brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; ithas an apsidal chancel, and small N. Porch and tower. The new West HertsCounty Asylum is close by. COLNEY STREET, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, forms analmost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood Stations, L. &N. W. R. It is only a few minutes' walk from the pretty church atFrogmore (_q. V. _). _Common Moor_ may be visited from Croxley Green (¾ mile N. E. FromRickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill. _Cooter's End_ is a tiny hamlet close to the M. R. On the Bedfordshireborder. _Corey's Mill_, a hamlet 1 mile N. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. , isnamed from an old mill, burnt in 1878. COTTERED (3 miles W. From Buntingford) has a fine old church (Perp. ). There is a chapel on the N. Side of the chancel erected by EdwardPulter; the W. Tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. Severalmemorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the seventeenthcentury. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of William I. The_vill_ of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of Winchester. _CotteredLordship_, a farmhouse near the village, is one of the very oldestdwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an expert that thefront door dates from 1450-80! _Cromer_, a hamlet 5 miles S. W. From Buntingford, is prettily situatedin a valley, in a purely agricultural district. _Cromer Hyde_ (1½ mile S. From Ayot Station, G. N. R. ) consists of afarmhouse, the Chequer's Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages. The nearest church is ½ mile S. E. At the corner of Brocket Hall Park. _Croxley Green_ (¾ mile N. E. From Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiasticalparish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is lateE. E. In style and has some good memorial windows. _Cuffley_ is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter'sBar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. From the straight line. TheChurch of St. James at Goff's Oak (_q. V. _) is 1 mile E. _Cumberlow Green_ is 4 miles N. W. From Buntingford. _Currants Bottom_, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley WoodStation, Met. R. _Dane End_, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S. W. From Standon Station, G. E. R. The nearest church (½ mile N. ) is at Little Munden. _Dane End_, 4 miles S. From Royston, is close to the Old North Road. There are a few cottages and two farms. _Dassells_ is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. From WestmillStation, G. E. R. The little river Quin flows close by. DATCHWORTH (1½ mile S. E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) has a churchwith some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles round. Thelarger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained glasswindows in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was restored in1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides of land at_Decewyrth_ were granted by an early Saxon king to the Monastery of St. Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward III. Thomas de laMere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage of this church tothe king. _Dean End_ (¾ mile S. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) is a small hamlet. _Delamore End_ is ½ mile E. From Flamstead, and near the high road toDunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 2½ miles S. E. _Digswell_, a village on the river Maran, is ½ mile S. W. From WelwynStation, G. N. R. Looking E. The visitor will notice the Great NorthernViaduct over the Maran Valley--a truly magnificent structure of fortyarches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, is[h] E. E. Itcontains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of theHorse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II. , Henry IV. And HenryV. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribefrom Chauncy: "Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore RegisRichardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis HenriciQuarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister EquitumJohannæ, filiæ Regis Navarr, et Regiæ Angliæ qui obiit--et Johanna uxorejus quondam capitalis Domicilla--quæ obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415. "Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2)William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to acivilian, his wife, and ten children (_circa_ 1530); (4) to ThomasHoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church wasrestored in 1872. _Digswell Water_ is a hamlet ½ mile E. From Digswell Church, and closeto Welwyn Station. _Down Green_ is ½ mile W. From Wheathampstead Station, G. N. R. _Driver's End_, a hamlet 2 miles W. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. , ison the S. W. Confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. Is the village ofCodicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant. _Dudswell_, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is ½ mile N. W. From Northchurch village, and 2 miles N. W. From Berkhampstead Station, L. &N. W. R. _East End_ (1 mile S. E. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. ) is betweenPanshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the samename on the Essex border, about 5 miles N. E. From Braughing Station, G. E. R. EASTWICK (1 mile N. W. From Burnt Mill Station, G. E. R. ) is a parish nearthe Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in 1873, is inE. E. Style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of a knight inchain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are crossed. There isneither date nor name; but it has been surmised (1) that the crossing ofthe legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) that the effigydates from early in the thirteenth century and represents a member ofthe De Toni or De Ros family. The former conjecture is undoubtedlyerroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel. ELSTREE, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully situated onthe Middlesex border; the station (M. R. ) is to the N. E. At Boreham Wood. At the N. End of the street a fine view stretches in the direction ofRadlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was founded by theBenedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth century; the presentstructure is Dec. And dates from 1853. The monuments are unimportant;but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield, isworthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the vestry screen of carved oak. The five-light E. Window was presented by the pupil of a former rector, John Morris, D. D. (d. 1848), to whom it is a memorial. In the oldchurchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the notorious robber andreputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by Thurtell on Gill'sHill, 2½ miles N. W. , in 1823. Here, too, was buried Martha Reay, whoselife was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to the Earl of Sandwich, and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, in 1779. There isexcellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a little W. , inAldenham parish. Some archæologists have thought that the Roman city_Sulloniacæ_ occupied (approximately) the site on which Elstree stands, and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but there is littledoubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely corresponds inposition with the city mentioned in the _Itinerary_ of Antoninus. _Epping Green_, a hamlet 1 mile S. E. From Little Berkhampstead, is atthe N. End of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green(G. N. R. ), nearly 4 miles N. W. ESSENDON is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the Valley ofthe Lea, 2 miles S. From Cole Green Station. The church, standing in thepark, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as early as thetwelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster stone. Note(1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) brass andeffigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and Liveries (d. 1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of Henry, Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the churchby Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the FirstMarquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tookefamily (1635-55) were discovered. _Essendon Place_ (David Citroen, Esq. )is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and _Bedwell Park_ (C. G. Arbuthnot, Esq. ) should be visited, by special permission, to view theBelvedere Collection, including one of Murillo's many "Assumptions". _Exnells_, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N. E. FromHadham Station, G. E. R. _Fanham Hall_ is 1 mile N. E. From Ware. _Fisher's Green_ (½ mile N. W. From Stevenage) is a small hamlet. _Flamstead_ (2½ miles N. W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) lies on highground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, theriver having formerly been called the "Verlam". The church is in thecentre of the village; it is a large Dec. Structure dating from thefourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonalpillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W. Wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carvedoak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893;(4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing noinscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument, with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to JohnOudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to SirBartholomew Fouke, Kt. , for many years Master of the Household to QueenElizabeth (d. 1604). At _Beechwood Park_, so called because of the manyfine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. Thewalk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about6 miles), is very picturesque. _Flamstead Bury_ is 1 mile W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. , and midwaybetween the N. End of the village and a spot called Heaven's Gate. _Flamstead End_ (1½ mile N. W. From Cheshunt Station, G. E. R. ) is aconsiderable hamlet. _Flaunden_ (4 miles S. W. From Boxmoor Station, L. &N. W. R. ) is a villageand parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 1¼ mile S. Thepresent church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the firstbuilt by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc. , were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies, some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaundenbelonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to oneThomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river(Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. End. Spiritual officeswere performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who servedBovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required. _Folly, The_ (a small hamlet 1 mile N. W. From Wheathampstead Station, G. N. R. ), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A littlefarther W. Is Batford Mill on the river Lea. _Frithsden_ (or _Friesden_), a hamlet 2 miles N. E. From GreatBerkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to theN. W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (_q. V. _)½ mile N. E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, Holly Bush Woodand Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during anhour's ramble. FROGMORE (¾ mile S. E. From Park Street Station, L. &N. W. R. ) is a hamletbetween the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church ismodern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road fromRadlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to localpersons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July, and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows betweenthis hamlet and Park Street Station. FURNEAUX PELHAM (4 miles N. E. From Braughing Station, G. E. R. ) has aninteresting E. E. And Perp. Church. One of the six bells in the embattledW. Tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in black-letter, the words "Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis"; upon the clock in the towerare the words: "Time flies. Mind your business. " Note (1) piscina andsedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport Chapeladjoining S. Aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and effigyis in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, representingtwo figures, _temp. _ Richard II. ; (5) ambry (lancet headed) in chancel;(6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during restoration, onebearing the words: "Simonis de Furneaux Filius". The De Furneaux were aNorman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon de Furneaux waslord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to the church is_Furneaux Pelham Hall_ (recently unoccupied), a fine Elizabethan mansionwhose owners suffered several misfortunes during the civil wars. GADDESDEN, GREAT (3 miles N. W. From Hemel Hempstead), is a village onthe river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to Nettleden. Thechurch is close to the river side, and immediately behind the _Cock andBottle Inn_. It is an ancient structure of "Roman bricks" and flint(E. E. ), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was rebuilt in 1862. There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few others of anyinterest. _Gaddesden Place_, in a park ½ mile E. , is the seat of Rt. Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq. , D. L. , J. P. It was built from designs by Wyatt, in 1774, in an Italian style. GADDESDEN, LITTLE (4 miles N. From Berkhampstead Station, L. &N. W. R. ), isa straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. Pretty cottagesand tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. The church isPerp. And contains many monuments to the Egerton family, Earls ofBridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady Frances, Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, Lord ofthe Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of Bridgewater, a"transcendently virtuous lady" of "beauty so unparallel'd that 'tis asmuch beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it surpasseth the skillof several of the most exquisite pencils . .. To describe and notdisparage it" (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. 1625); (6) Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was styled the Father ofBritish Inland Navigation; and the tall column near Ashridge Park, 1¾mile W. From the church, was erected to his memory in 1832. _Gaddesden Green_ is practically one with the above, the marble crossand fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being betweenthe village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. From the S. Endof the Green. _Gaddesden Row_ (3 miles N. From Hemel Hempstead Station, M. R. ) is astraggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and GreatGaddesden. GADE, river. (See Introduction. ) _Gallows Hill_ (½ mile S. From King's Langley Station, L. &N. W. R. ) is ahamlet. The Booksellers' Provident Retreat is here. It is also the nameof a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint IsolationHospital for the two towns. _Gannock Green_ is 2½ miles S. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R. The nearestchurch is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is ½ mile E. _Gardener's End_ (3½ miles W. From Buntingford) is a hamlet in theparish of Ardeley. _Garston_ is 1¼ mile S. W. From Bricket Wood Station, L. &N. W. R. _Gibraltar_, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshireborder, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G. N. R. GILSTON (2 miles N. From Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about 2 milesS. E. From Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says it wasprobably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is nomention of it in _Domesday Book_. The church was very probably erectedby Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manorof Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E. E. And stands on the hill about ¼ mile N. From the Park. There is a finedouble piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows, showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. Themonuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in thechurch are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of thecounty, and a member of Cromwell's second Protectorate Parliament; (2)Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3)Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) inchurchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). TheFeathers, a fine old inn (_circa_ 1680), still stands in this village;an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the _Home CountiesMagazine_ (Oct. 1901). _Gilston Park_, beautiful but not very extensive, should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq. , M. A. , J. P. , etc. ) stands near the site of _New Place_, successively the home of theChauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified bySir Humphrey Gore, who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 itpassed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well knownto readers of the _Essays of Elia_. It was his grandson William (d. 1822) whom Lamb calls "a fine old Whig". This William left no family, sothe house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous "Blakesmoor inH----shire" of Lamb's essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) JaneHamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor. _Goff's Oak_ (2½ miles W. From Cheshunt Station, G. E. R. ) is a hamletwhich owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands nearthe Goff's Oak Inn at the S. Extremity of Cheshunt Common. GORHAMBURY. (See St. Albans. ) _Gosmore_ (2 miles S. W. From Hitchin Station, G. N. R. ) is a smallvillage. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (_q. V. _). _Gossoms End_ is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, ¼ mile S. E. From Northchurch. GRAVELEY (1½ mile N. E. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) is a village offthe Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards LittleWymondley[i] a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a gatewaynear some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and flintis late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7. Thecarved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained glassto the memory of local rectors. The present N. Aisle was added duringrestoration. The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was givenby William I. To William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon for"the Reeve's land, " and Norden thinks the place took its name from aReeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon wasemployed "once upon a time" to give warning of the approach of enemies. One mile N. From the church is Jack's Hill, once the haunt of a robber, "Jack o' legs, " the hero of many a legend known in the district. Hisgrave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. From Jack's Hill. _Gravesend_ (3½ miles N. E. From Braughing Station, G. E. R. ) is a hamleton the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1mile S. _Green End_ is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of LittleMunden, about 4 miles W. From Standon Station; (2) in the parish ofSandon, about 4 miles N. W. From Buntingford Station (both stationsG. E. R. ); (3) ½ mile N. From Boxmoor Station, L. &N. W. R. _Green Street. _--There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 2½miles N. W. From Bishop's Stortford; (2) 1½ mile N. E. From Boreham WoodStation (M. R. ). _Green Tye_ is 1½ mile N. E. From Hadham Station, G. E. R. _Grub's Barn_ (2 miles S. E. From Welwyn Station, G. N. R. ) consists of afarmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfieldand Tewin. _Grub's Lane_ is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S. E. Fromthe town. _Gubblecot_ (3 miles N. W. From Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. TheTring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters onmany occasions, are a little to the S. _Gustard Wood_ (1 mile N. From Wheathampstead Station G. N. R. ) may bevisited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county. HADHAM (GREAT or MUCH) is an ancient village and parish near the riverAsh. The station, G. E. R. , is 1¼ mile S. W. We read that the Manor wasgiven by King Edgar to the Bishops of London, several of whom haveresided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother of Henry VI. And wifeof Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as Edmund of Hadham. Thechurch of St. Andrew, near the river, is E. E. , dating from about 1300. It has been much altered and restored. The very fine S. Porch is thoughtto be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the massive, embattled W. Toweris probably by Bishop Braybroke (_circa_ 1400). Note (1) floriated crossand inscription to Simon Flambard, Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, andchaplain to Edward III. ; (2) brass to one Alban, also rector here (d. 1372); (3) monument in chancel to Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer, Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4) fourteenth-century glass in E. Window, a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a recent rector; (5) three brasses innave to members of the Newce family (1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancelscreen; (7) two piscinæ in chancel. The old House, or Palace, dated fromabout 1400. Close to the village (S. W. ) lies _Moor Park_, which readersor tourists must not confound with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (_q. V. _). The present mansion dates from about 1780; its predecessor was anElizabethan structure, once the property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (seeGilston), and previously of Sir Garratt Harvey, in whose day ArchbishopUsher was a guest at "Moore Place". At _Perry Green_, 1 mile E. FromHadham Station, is a chapel-of-ease, in E. E. Style, erected in 1853. _Hadham Cross_ is beautifully situated in the valley, S. From thevillage and partly hidden among trees. _Hadham Ford_ (3 miles E. From Standon Station, G. E. R. ) is on the riverAsh, 1 mile S. W. From HADHAM (LITTLE) formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys considerablehistoric importance through its connection with the Capel family, Earlsof Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the neighbourhood, and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands between thevillage and the river, and is widely known for its fine S. Porch oftimber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in whichcounty such porches are comparatively common. The building is mostlyE. E. , probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled andpinnacled, is Perp. (_circa_ 1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, arector of Great Hadham (_circa_ 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wifeand daughters (_circa_ 1485); (3) Perp. Chancel screen of oak; (4) on S. Side of chancel, memorial stone to "Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham, who was murder'd for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the9th, 1648". This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in asilver box and given to Charles II. At the Restoration, the earl havingwished his heart to be "buried with his master". The chancel wasrestored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. _Hadham Hall_ (½ mile E. Fromthe church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridorextending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finelymullioned windows. _Little Hadham Place_ (½ mile W. From the church) isprettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenueof Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely. HAILEYBURY COLLEGE (2 miles S. E. From Hertford) was founded at Hertfordin 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It is now oneof our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous from the S. E. , stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over the valley ofthe Lea, and, looking S. E. , the neighbourhood of Epping Forest. Note (1)the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. Entrance; (2) the great size ofthe quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel (by A. W. Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) the library, containing somegood portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon Bradby, waspainted by Herkomer. _Hall's Green_ (4 miles N. E. From Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mileS. E. From Weston church. A little farther S. Note the fine view overCromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left. _Hammond Street_ is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. Thenearest Station is Cheshunt, G. E. R. , 2½ miles S. E. _Hammond's End_, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centreof the pleasant varied scenery between the M. R. And the St. Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 1¼ mile S. W. _Handside (Upper and Lower)_ is the name of two hamlets in Lemsfordparish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S. ) is thenearest station, G. N. R. HARE STREET. --There are two places in the county bearing this name: (1)a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered parish; (2) alarge village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. From Buntingford. Thevillage has several quaint old cottages, and is by no meansunpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. Itaffords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old andinteresting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston, Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a shortwalk. _Harmer Green_ (½ mile N. E. From Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N. From the Maran Valley. HARPENDEN is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from St. Pancras (24 miles), or from King's Cross by changing at Hatfield. Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the largevillage, beautifully situated at the N. End of Harpenden Common, shouldbe careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday beforeEpsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E. Dec. Style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease toWheathampstead (3 miles E. ). It probably dated from say 1140 (_temp. _Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first toweris believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which thepresent W. Tower was built. Many alterations were made during theseventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, inparticular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font;(2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife(d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella hiswife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462)and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that thename of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. Windowof stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. Transept to the family of thelate Sir J. B. Lawes of Rothamstead. _Rothamstead_ (1 mile S. W. ), formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erectedabout 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From thegrand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S. There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mileN. W. From Rothamstead, on the river Ver. _Hatching Green_ is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S. W. From thestation, M. R. HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King's Cross, G. N. R. (17miles), the station being opposite the W. Gates of the park. The olderparts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to therailway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace, beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. Thetown is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield(the _Hetfelle_ of _Domesday Book_), owned the manor until it was givenby Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into abishopric by Henry I. , the bishops made Hatfield one of their severalresidences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop's Hatfield. Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII. , andwas at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. Itwas to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soonafter her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custodyof Sir Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown evento royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she wasQueen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of hersubsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to needrepetition. Immediately after her death James I. Paid a visit toTheobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a youngerson of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury. The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobaldshas been mentioned in the Introduction (Section X). The King promised tobuild for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried outon a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The newhouse stood a little E. From the old palace. To this house James paid anearly visit; one of its most stately apartments is called "King James'sRoom". [Illustration: HATFIELD HOUSE] _Hatfield House_ is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture. To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of itsarchitecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume asthis. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feetwide, with two wings on the S. Front. The centre between the two wingsis Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the greatgate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storeyof the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. This S. Front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds andlawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, threestoreyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wingsruns a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on eachside of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor abovethe arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16feet high. At the W. End of this gallery is the library, at the E. Endis King James's Room. The aspect of the house from the N. Is not soimposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N. Terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from themost distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero'sportrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuablecollections of MSS. In the country, but the State Papers have recentlybeen lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures ofthese two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12, 000 autograph lettersof the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the "great Lord Burleigh"; (3) theforty-two articles of Edward VI. With his autograph attached; (4) avellum MS. With miniature of Henry VII. ; (5) the Norfolk correspondence;(6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. Of the Chronicle ofWilliam of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. By Ascham. [Illustration: KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE] _King James's Room_ has three fine oriel windows and is profuselydecorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, issupported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronzeof James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture. _The Grand Staircase_ is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely, Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensionsof the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon;and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are fivelandings. Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) _TheChapel_, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories, marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the _Winter Dining Room_, looking out upon the N. Terrace, about 30 feet square; this roomcontains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie's Duke of Wellington, Van Somer's James I. And Charles I. , and Kneller's Peter the Great; (3)_Great Banqueting Hall_; (4) _Summer Dining Room_, near the foot of thegreat staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above thedoor; (5) the _Armoury_, full of treasures "rich and rare, " suits ofarmour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other picturesin various parts of the house include (1) William III. , and LadyRanelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelledhead-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother ofthe first earl; Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) finewhole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds. The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles incircumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are somesuperb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth's oak, N. E. From the N. Terrace, little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the LionOak, between the house and the great W. Gates, still puts forth leavesin its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than thatat Hampton Court. The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. And one of thelargest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. Transept is thought to bea portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeedalmost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancelabout 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. And S. Porches; the former looksalmost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The mostimportant among many features of interest is the-- _Salisbury Chapel_, N. Side of chancel, from which it is divided by anarcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosedby beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknownItalian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived andexecuted allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E. Side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling figures inwhite marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbenteffigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurerof England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff inhand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in thischapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), withinscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a mostChristian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection. On the opposite (S. ) side of the chancel is the _Brockett Chapel_, containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (seebelow). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them thearms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame ElizabethBrockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2)medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade, Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet ofSir John Brockett on wall. There are piscinæ in the chancel and N. Transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster andmosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda oneither side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone. Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisburystone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury. Three miles N. N. W. Is _Brocket Hall_. The Great North Road skirts thepark on the E. And the river Lea flows past the house from N. W. To S. E. The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart. , whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart. , became Viscount Melbourne in 1780. By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, andhere, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. Thedrawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as awhole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabethis said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park, as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit. From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction;_e. G. _, through the park S. E. To Lemsford Mill, or S. W. To Cromer Hyde, N. W. To Water End, or N. E. To Ayot Green. More charming still is theramble--permission should be requested--beside the winding Lea towardsOld Marford and Wheathampstead. _Hatfield Hyde_ (1¾ mile N. E. From Hatfield) is a hamlet in a prettydistrict, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S. _Haultwick_ lies 3 miles W. From the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1mile N. From Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G. E. R. (about 3½ miles E. ), passing the S. Side of Hamel's Park. _Heavensgate_ (2 miles W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) consists of afew cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk (2miles N. ) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant. [Illustration: HEMEL HEMPSTEAD] HEMEL HEMPSTEAD. --Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor(L. &N. W. R. ) and walk N. E. Over the little common or take the motor-busthrough Marlowes to the town (1½ mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasantwalk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; fromRedbourn it is but a few minutes' journey (M. R. ). The town, untilrecently an old "Bailiwick, " is on a hill, with central market place, town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it iscruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly beless than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. Doorway are fineexamples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. Windows S. Sideof chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3)nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height ofoctagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration). Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, toRobert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribefrom Chauncy:-- "Robert Albyn gist icy Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy"; (2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841). Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) tothe high hemp-land on the E. Side of the town. Offa, King of theMercians, gave six houses at _Hemelhamstede_ to the Abbey of St. Albans;but the remainder of the _vill_ remained in the hands of Saxon Kingsuntil it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in _DomesdayBook_ is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by EarlMoreton is thus described: "Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treunghundred, it was rated for 10 hides . .. There are two Frenchmen born, with thirteen Bordars, . .. There are eight Servants, and four Mills ofseven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and threehundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common ofPasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feedone thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth twoand twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rentin the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men ofEarl Lewin, they held this mannor. " From Priory Hill, W. From thechurch, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfieldsbeyond. _Bury Mill_ is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill. _Gadesbridge Park_ is on the left as you pass from High Street toPiccott's End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. From theGade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart. , J. P. , etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women ofthis neighbourhood. _Heronsgate_ (3 miles W. From Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucksborder, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter's, Mill End, 1¼ mile E. The building is modern, with one window of stained glass. [Illustration: HERTFORD] HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of thename has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one ofseveral places held to be the _Durocobrivis_ mentioned by Antonine. Itis the _Herudsford_ (_i. E. _ red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it wasa town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of theTrinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name ofthe town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when thesurrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by anatural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal, three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water. The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediateneighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfredthe Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded byWilliam of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learnthat in the twenty-third year of Alfred's reign the Danes infested theThames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of theircrafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, at or near what isnow the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foragingexcursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, strippedthe people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwardsestablished a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down tothe river side the following year and made a careful survey of theDanish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is saidto have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and tohave carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points. The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, buthe is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected adam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danishfleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew intoCambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the sceneof Alfred's ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships. Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remainseveral large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and apostern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentionedhere. William I. Entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; itwas besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St. Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John ofGaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose time Kings John of France and Davidof Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had beencreated Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks. It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV. Gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. To his wife Katherine ofFrance; and Henry VI. To his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and JamesI. Are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I. , on 3rd May, inthe sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl ofSalisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion. The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the siteof the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. By RalphLimesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed heresix Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. ThePriory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII. ; but thechurch was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was "demolisht by orderof the Bishop of Lincoln" towards the end of the seventeenth century. The church of All Saints, on high ground E. From the town, was destroyedby fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediatelyrebuilt as a Perp. Structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895. In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but theaisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of fivebays, and hexagonal N. Porch. The old building contained monuments toSir John Harrison, Kt. , Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);[4] toIsabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. OfFrance and second wife to Richard II. ; and to Johannes Prest, "porter"(janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments wereremoved more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees inthe avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on thetombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew ismodern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. Edifice, originallyfounded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the ShireHall, a large brick building of "questionable shape" erected towards theclose of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade incorn and its products form the larger part of the industries ofHertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put asummary period to the insurrection of the "Levellers" by shooting aringleader named Arnald. [Footnote 4: This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion inBalls Park, S. E. From Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend, Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses atButchery Green, long ago decayed. ] _Hertford Heath. _ (See Amwell, Little. ) HERTINGFORDBURY may be visited from Hertford, the station (G. N. R. )being 1½ mile S. W. The village is pleasantly situated on the riverMaran, on the S. Confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly rebuiltby Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth century. Itcontains little of architectural interest, but the monuments arenumerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, withalabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2)slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3)recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert, Kt. , who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d. 1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to twodaughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert deLouthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. Side of chancel, containsmany monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo byRoubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717. HEXTON (about 6 miles N. W. From Hitchin Station, G. N. R. ) lies on atongue of the county surrounded W. , N. And E. By Bedfordshire. TheChurch of St. Faith, W. From the village, was rebuilt, with theexception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. Edifice. The St. Nicholas Chapel, N. Side of chancel, takes the place of the chapelbearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to PeterTaverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that FrancisTaverner, Esq. , who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton andset it in the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in thisvolume, but the details which Taverner brought together are sointeresting that I transcribe a part of them from a copy in mypossession:-- "Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street, which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen awarlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to havebeen a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top ofanother Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as theRomans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones havebeen found. The Saxons call'd this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City inGermany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at thisDay. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call'd Hesk of Reed, which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call'd Heckstanes-Tune, that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, thatis, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire, Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates, which are call'd Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes madesome Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is calledDane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, butthis is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795, founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in Memory of St. Alban, and thatSexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of theAbby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town ofHeckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the timeof King William the Conqueror. "This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and fromthat time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans wereLords of the Mannors now call'd Hexton. They were also Patrons of thisChurch (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected overa Fountain near this Church Yard, call'd St. Faith's Well) for John deHertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston tothe said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leetand the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes andCustomary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing ofthe Profits of the Rectory. "The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, iscast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood, and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mightydeep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn. "The Town of Hexton is seated at the Foot of the Mountains, whence issuemany Springs of Water; the Mountains are a continued Rock of Stone. " HIGH CROSS (3 miles N. From Ware) is a village and parish on the OldNorth Road. It has a modern Dec. Church of grey stone, containingseveral good stained-glass windows, but little of architecturalinterest. _Youngsbury_, a beautiful but small park, S. From the village, has a fine Georgian residence (C. B. Giles-Puller, Esq. ). The littleriver Rib skirts the park on the S. Side. There is a small hamlet of thesame name 1¼ mile S. W. From[j] Radlett Station (M. R. ). _High Street_ is a small hamlet on the Cambridge Road, near the riverQuin. Braughing Station (G. E. R. ) is 1¼ mile S. _High Wych_ (2 miles N. From Harlow Station, Essex) has an E. E. Church, built in 1861; the marble reredos, finely worked, was added in 1871. Thetrade in malt is large for so small a place. _Highley Hill_ (1 mile S. W. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R. ) is on theCambridgeshire border. HINXWORTH, formerly Hamsteworde and Henxworth (4 miles N. From Baldock), is close to the Bedfordshire border. The parish is very ancient. Thechurch of St. Nicholas was erected about 1400 on the site of an earlierstructure. It is a mixture of several styles, partly restored in 1881. Note (1) two canopied Perp. Niches in S. E. Angle of nave, where wasformerly the lady-chapel; (2) brass to John Lambard, a master of theMercers' Company (d. 1487), and Anne his wife; (3) oak roof inchancel, added in 1892; (4) rood-stairs. William I. Divided the _vill_between three Normans, Peter de Valoignes, Hardwin de Scalers, andWilliam Earl of Ewe, who owned much other property in Hertfordshire. Thevill was subsequently divided into two manors, one of which belonged toWilliam de Cantilupe, a Steward and Councillor to King John, and theother, during the reign of Henry VII. , to John Lambard mentioned above. This manor was called Pulter; and the old house (now _Hinxworth Place_, ½ mile S. From the village) was once inhabited by some Cistercian monksof the Monastery of Pipewell (Northants). Note the clunch walls andmullioned windows, in one of which, designed in stained glass, are thearmorial bearings of three former owners. Two hundred years ago thevillage consisted of thirty-five dwellings, three of which werealmshouses. [Illustration: HITCHIN] HITCHIN is an ancient town, full of interest, 32 miles N. From King'sCross, G. N. R. It was formerly called Hitche, very probably from thelittle river Hiz, which rises at Well Head, about 1½ mile S. W. From thecentre of the town. Roman coins and pottery, and even prehistoricimplements have been found in great quantities in the neighbourhood, andthere are traces of a prehistoric lake bed, to the S. E. _The Priory_, immediately S. (R. H. J. Delmé-Radcliffe, Esq. , J. P. ), occupies the siteof a Carmelite monastery and Conventual church founded in the reign ofEdward II. ; and the Biggin Almshouses, close to the church, stillpreserve some of the old fabric of the Gilbertine Nunnery, founded inthe reign of Edward III. The Church of St. Mary (formerly St. Andrew), just off the N. E. Corner of the market-place, is thought to be thelargest parish church in the county, the other claimant for that honourbeing St. Peters, Great Berkhampstead. The whole structure is embattled. The square W. Tower is of unusual size, but low in proportion. Enteringby the fine old S. Porch we notice the niches for statues, none of whichremain, and the vaulted roof, badly battered and marred by--as issupposed--the zealous iconoclasts of Cromwell's army. Opposite, over theN. Porch, hangs a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, believed to beby Rubens; it was formerly over the communion table. The church has beenrestored at intervals since 1858; but the fine Perp. Aisle-roofs stillremain. The font, of Ketton stone, is ancient, and formerly had statuesof the twelve Apostles in niches; these, however, have been mutilatedalmost beyond recognition; the beautiful oak canopy is new. Note theeffigy in stone lying in the recess of the first window of the N. Aisle, believed to be that of Bernard de Baliol, founder of the Preceptory ofKnights Templars at Temple Dinsley (3 miles S. ), and the mosaics of thereredos, representing the Last Supper, Christ and the woman of Samaria, Moses striking the rock, and other subjects from Scripture. The screensof carved oak, between the aisles and chancel aisles, are among thefinest in the county. Memorials are numerous; some ancient brasseshaving been brought to light during restoration. Among the brasses areone (1) to John Beel, Margary his wife, and their eight children (1477);this is near the pulpit; (2) to James Hert, B. D. (d. 1498); (3) to JohnPulter, a draper (d. 1421), and his wife Alice, the effigies almostobliterated; (4) to Nicholas Mattok, and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1485);this Nicholas was a fishmonger of London, and a merchant of the stapleof Calais; (5) portion of a brass, near the chancel steps, to JohnSperehawke, D. D. , Canon of Wells (d. 1474). Adjoining the W. End of the churchyard is Golden Square, once theresidence of Eugene Aram, from which we may pass into Bancroft, one ofthe widest thoroughfares in the county. Close by is Tilehouse Street;the Baptist Chapel, on the left, some way up the street, was restored in1894: it stands on the site of the building in which Bunyan preached; achair which he gave is still shown in the vestry. It may here bementioned that George Whitefield and George Fox are both known to havevisited Hitchin during their missionary wanderings. A little farther W. Is Mount Pleasant, thought to be the birthplace of George Chapman, thetranslator of Homer. That he finished his translation in thisneighbourhood is matter of knowledge; but what is told of his familyconnections with Hitchin is little more than conjecture. Between the town and the station, G. N. R. , stands a modern church of redbrick, dressed with Bath stone, E. Dec. In style. There are good oakstalls and a sedile in the chancel. Hitchin was noted during the sixteenth century for its trade in wood andmalt. There were at one time tan-yards beside the Hiz, and thebuckle-makers of Bucklersbury gave that street its name. Themalting-yards occupied much of the ground on both sides of Bancroft. Themaking of lavender water in the town is referred to in the Introduction. HOCKERIL is now the E. Suburb of Bishop's Stortford, the bridge over theStort, near the Old Black Lion, connecting it with the town. It has amodern Gothic church. The E. Extremity of Hockeril is almost on theborder line between Hertfordshire and Essex. HODDESDON (1½ mile N. From Broxbourne Station, G. E. R. ) is an ancientmarket town, lying on high ground among beautifully diversifiedsurroundings. It is known, at least by name, to all readers of _TheComplete Angler_; but the old Thatched House, to which Izaak Waltonoften resorted, has long been a thing of the past. The Bull Inn stillremains where it stood in the time of Prior, whose allusion to it in his_Down Hall_ is invariably quoted in local handbooks: "Into an old inn did this equipage roll, At a town they call Hod'sdon, the sign of the Bull, Near a nymph with an urn that divides the highway, And into a puddle throws mother of tea". The stone figure to which Prior refers is no longer to be seen. At theS. End of the High Street, on the right when entering the town fromBroxbourne, stands _Rawdon House_, an embattled Jacobean mansion of redbrick, built by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon in 1622. It was restored in 1877, and the stucco with which it was formerly coated was removed. A tower, with cupola roof, is at the rear of the house, which is now a conventfor Augustinian nuns. The Church of St. Catherine, close to the site of the old ThatchedHouse, but W. From the opposite side of the High Street, dates from1732; the tower was added in 1888. It is a large building of red-brick, in mixed styles, with small windows of stained glass in the chancel. Itis not interesting. _Hollesmore End_ (2 miles W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) is a smallhamlet. HOLWELL is a village and parish transferred from Bedfordshire toHertfordshire in 1897. It is about 1½ mile N. E. From Pirton (_q. V. _);the nearest station is Henlow, M. R. , 2 miles N. The Church of St. Peter, very much restored, was originally Perp. There is a xii century holywater basin, and a very curious old brass to Robert Wodehouse, a priest(1515), with figures of two _wodehowses_ (wild forest men) and of achalice and paten. _Hook's Cross_ (2 miles E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamleton the main road from Hertford to Stevenage. _Frogmore Hall_ stands ina small park ½ mile E. ; it is a large modern mansion of red brick andstone facings. The grounds are very picturesque, and are divided by theriver Beane. HORMEAD, GREAT (2½ miles E. From Buntingford), has a restored fifteenthcentury church, perhaps 1400-20, containing a brass to a benefactor, oneWilliam Delawood (1694) and a mural monument to Lieut. -Col. Stables, killed at Waterloo. The village is close to the river Quin, which flowsbetween the church and Hare Street on the Cambridge Road. _Hormead, Little_ (½ mile S. From the above), has a quaint little Normanand E. E. Church on the hill crest overlooking Hare Street. Leaving theCambridge Road at the S. End of that village, and crossing the riverQuin, the rounded arch of the Norman doorway on the N. Side of the navecatches the eye as we approach the village. The door itself is partly ofwrought iron work, seventeenth century; an engraving of it is inCussans' _History of Hertfordshire_. There is excellently preserved workin the Norman nave. It has been surmised that "Hormede" was formerly one_vill_, that it was divided soon after 1100, and the two churches builton the hill less than ½ mile apart. Ralph Baugiard and Eustace, Earl ofBoulogne, together held the manor of "Hormede" at the time of the GreatSurvey, and the names Hormead Magna and Hormead Parva are of laterorigin. _Horse Shoes_ (½ a mile N. From Smallford Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamletin the parish of Colney Heath. _Howe Green_, a small hamlet, is 1¼ mile S. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. Pretty walks may be taken S. To Bedwell Park, or N. W. To the millon the Lea, Rye Croft, and Mill Green. HUNSDON (2 miles N. E. From Roydon Station, Essex) is a very ancientvillage. The E. Perp. Church of flint is thought to date from 1400, andthe N. Porch of oak is probably coeval with the main structure. Note thefinely carved Jacobean screen which divides the Cary Chapel in the S. Transept from the nave, and, in the chapel, the imposing monument andalabaster effigies to Sir John Cary (d. 1617) and his wife. The monumentis built into the wall; behind it is a rather long, but historicallyimportant inscription:--"Here resteth in Peace Sir John Cary, Knight, Baron of Hunsdon (being the fourth Son to the Right Honorable HenryBaron of Hunsdon) and the Lady Mary Hunsdon his Wife, Daughter toLeonard Hide of Throcking in the county of Hertford, Esq. ; The Said SirJohn Cary was sent to Barwick by the late Queen Elizabeth of FamousMemory, in the Year of our Lord, 1593, to be Marshall of the Town ofBarwick, and Captain of Norham; afterwards he was made Governor of thesaid Town and Garrison of Barwick, and Lord Warden of the East Marchesof England, . .. Scotland, and so he remained until he returned intoEngland with the most famous King James, where he entered into thePossession of the Crown of England; and so having two Sons and twoDaughters ended this transitory Life, in an assured Hope to rise againin Christ. " In the chancel windows are some white roses, and a badge ofthe House of York; note also the canopies in these windows, and thefigures of Apostles in the W. Window. On the N. Wall of nave is a finebrass to James Gray, showing a man shooting at deer with a crossbow;this Gray was gamekeeper for thirty-five years at _Hunsdon House_. Bishop Ridley preached from the pulpit on several occasions. _Hunsdon House_ stands between the church and Gilston Park. During thereign of Edward IV. , Sir John Oldhall "built here a fair House after themode of a Castle . .. Which building, 'tis said, cost £7, 222". This wouldbe an enormous sum of money in those days. The original structure had ahigh tower and large courtyard. Henry VIII. Made the house a palace, andin so doing appears to have almost rebuilt it; it is known that hischildren were often here, as the King had a high opinion ofHertfordshire air. Queen Elizabeth gave the estate to Sir Henry Cary, Kt. , her cousin, and created him Baron Hunsdon. The "palace" wassurrounded by a moat, crossed by two bridges; the grand entrance andlofty clock tower, the outhouses and grounds are elaborately depicted ina print in Chauncy's _History_. The present house was erected at thebeginning of this century, partly on a fresh site, but some portions ofwhat was the W. Extremity of the old palace are built into the E. Wing. Two fine Jacobean chimney-pieces still remain; but little else is leftof the old Tudor home, and the moat has been levelled. The presenthouse, however, is an imposing, even noble structure of red brick, andits position, backed by the grand old elms in the park, is verypicturesque. N. E. Stood Hunsdon Lodge, the hunting lodge of QueenElizabeth. HUNTON BRIDGE is a pleasant little village at the meeting of the roadsfrom Watford, King's Langley, and St. Albans, on the Grand JunctionCanal. The nearest station is King's Langley (L. &N. W. R. ), 1¼ mile N. There is a good modern inn and many pretty cottages, and folk in searchof rest and quiet might journey farther and find less suitableretirement. The nearest church is at Langleybury (_q. V. _). ICKLEFORD, formerly Ickleton, is a village on the Roman Icknield Way, which at this spot fords the little river Hiz; hence its name. It is 2miles N. From Hitchin. The church was restored in 1860; but portions ofthe ancient fabric have been carefully retained, and a small chapeladded to the chancel. The tower is Norman, as are also part of the navearcade and the S. Doorway. The chancel arch, pointed, is finely carved;the stairs to the rood-loft still remain; there is a piscina in thechancel. Note brass to Thomas Somer and his wife (_circa_ 1400). S. Fromthe church is _Ickleford Manor_, in a small park, for some years theresidence of Commander H. C. Dudley Ryder, R. N. It is not of historicinterest. IPPOLLITTS or St. Ippolitts (2 miles S. E. From Hitchin) was formerlycalled Hippolits, Eppalets or Pallets, according to the taste of thespeaker. It was thought by Norden to owe its name to Hippolits, asupposed Saint, who was very skilful in the treatment of horses. Afterthe Saint's death a shrine was placed to his honour in the parishchurch, and to this shrine near the high altar divers persons broughttheir ailing steeds to be healed by the attendant priest with the helpof relics of the Saint. The relics were of efficacy commensurate withthe gifts of those who desired the Saint's blessing! "The horses, " saysone writer, "were brought out of the North Street, through the NorthGate, and the North Door of the Church, which was boarded on purpose tobring up the horses to the Altar. " The church was restored in 1878; itis of flint and rubble, and is now chiefly Perp. And Dec. With a fewolder portions. Note (1) ambry and double piscina in the chancel; (2)brass in N. Transept to Robert Poydres (d. 1401); (3) brasses inchancel, with effigies, to the Hughes family, one of whom, Alice, wasdaughter of Thomas Bybsworth, "an ancient dweller in this parish"; shedied 1594. There is a tumulus about 1 mile S. KELSHALL (2½ miles S. E. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R. ) has a restored, but interesting church, dedicated to St. Faith, partly Perp. And partlyDec. Over the S. Porch is a small chamber, and in the N. Aisle is arecess, the nature of which is not quite understood, but it was probablyused for the safe-keeping of banner-staves, crosses and otherpre-Reformation ornaments. There is a brass with two effigies to"Rychard Adane and Maryon his Wyff" (d. 1400 and 1435 respectively). Inthe churchyard is an old sundial on the shaft of a stone cross. JohnJaneway, a young divine of astonishing spirituality, whose _Life_, byhis brother James, was subsequently prefaced by Robert Hall, was buriedhere in 1657: Richard Baxter was one of his admirers. The Manor of_Chelesell_ was the property of the Abbot of Ely at the time of theConquest, having been given to that ancient foundation by the father ofEdward the Confessor. _Kensworth_ was transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897. KIMPTON (about 2¾ miles N. From Wheathampstead Station) lies between thehills that lead N. To Whitwell and S. E. To Ayot St. Lawrence. Thevillage is very ancient, and was called _Kimeton_ in Saxon days. Thechurch, a little N. From the centre of the village, has been muchrestored: the N. Aisle was added in 1861; the tower and the N. Porch(over which is a parvise, as at Kelshall) were restored in 1887-8; thechancel in 1890, when the reredos was added. The building is E. E. Notethe finely carved oak screen separating the S. Aisle from the DacreChapel, formerly the rood screen, the piscina in the chapel itself, andthe stained glass in the E. Window to Thomas, twenty-second Baron Dacre(d. 1890), to whom the reredos is also a memorial. _Kimpton Hoo_, in abeautiful park of about 250 acres, is 1 mile N. E. From the village. Itis the seat of Viscount Hampden. Pretty walks may be taken E. _viâ_Kimpton Mill to Codicote, N. To Bendish and Whitwell, W. To Peter'sGreen, or S. To Lamer Park. KING'S LANGLEY is a large and interesting village. The river Gade flowsbetween the main street and the station, L. &N. W. R. [k] Paper and strawplait are both made largely. The village owes its name to the fact thatHenry III. Built a palace on a spot still marked by a few fragments ofruin a little W. From the church, and the royal manor became known asLangley Regis, whereas the Langley on the E. Side of the river belongedto the Abbey of St. Albans, and was called Abbot's Langley (_q. V. _). Edmund de Langley, fifth son of Edward III. , was born in this palace in1344. He became Duke of York, Earl of Cambridge and Lord Tivedale, andmarried Isabel, a younger daughter of Don Pedro of Castile. In 1392Richard II. , with his first Queen, Anne of Bohemia, and many bishops, earls, lords and ladies, kept Christmas at King's Langley Palace. Near the palace was founded, by one Roger Helle, a priory of Dominicanmonks, which was enriched by Edward II. And several successive monarchs. The body of Piers Gaveston was brought from Oxford and buried in thechurch of this priory in 1315--he was beheaded on Blacklow Hill in1312--and what was then believed to be the body of Richard II. Wasbrought to the same spot in 1400 for temporary sepulture. The priory wasdissolved, like most priories, in the days of Henry VIII. ; but it wasrestored by Mary. It was finally suppressed soon after the accession ofElizabeth. The church, at the S. E. Extremity of the village street, is aPerp. Structure of flint and Totternhoe stone; the W. Tower is embattledand has an angle turret. It has been partially restored. On the N. Sideof the chancel stood formerly the tomb of Edmund de Langley and Isabelof Castile (both mentioned above) which was brought from the priorychurch at the Dissolution; it is now in the chapel at the end of the N. Aisle. There is, I believe, no absolute proof that this is the tomb ofEdmund and Isabel, but the evidence that it is so is very strong. Chauncy, two centuries back, wrote: "On the north side of the chancelthere is a Monument raised about five foot, with the Arms of France andEngland, with three Labels upon it, also the Arms of Peter, King ofCastile and Leons, by which Coats it seems to be the Tomb where Edmondde Langley, the Fifth Son of Edward III. And Isabel his Wife, one of theDaughters of Don Pedro, King of Castile, was [were] interr'd". Duringthe removal of the tomb to its present position the bones of a male andtwo females were discovered; they are presumably those of Edmund andIsabel, and of Anne Mortimer, the wife of Edmund's second son, Richard, Earl of Cambridge. The tomb is covered by a slab 7 feet 3 inches long;the sides are embossed with Plantagenet shields within cusps. Note thebeautifully carved open screen between chapel and chancel, and thereredos, partly of marble, erected in 1877. The oaken pulpit is Perp. There are several other monuments: (1) to Hon. Sir W. Glascocke ofAldamhowe, Kt. , Admiralty Judge in Ireland under Charles II. (d. 1688);(2) brass to John Carter, "late of Gifres" (d. 1588); the inscriptionstates that he had two wives, that the first bore him four sons and fivedaughters and the second five sons and four daughters; (3) brass toWilliam Carter and Alice his wife, 1528. Sir John Evans, in 1862, found an almond-shaped river-drift flintimplement on a heap of stones in this neighbourhood. KING'S WALDEN (about 5 miles S. W. From Hitchin) has an ancient church, carefully restored in 1868. It stands in the park of _The Bury_, a largemansion, Elizabethan in style. The embattled tower has masonry probablyolder than fourteenth century, and much of the nave arcade is Norman. Note the sculptured capitals of pillars, curiously similar to those atOld Shoreham. The chancel arch is E. Perp. ; probably substituting itsE. E. Predecessor on very close lines; the corbels bear busts thought toresemble Henry VI. And Margaret of Anjou. In the chancel are a doublepiscina, and two E. E. Lancet windows. The chancel screen is a reallywonderful piece of work, in excellent preservation. In the N. Aisle isan ambry, and in the S. Aisle a sedile and two piscinæ, and on the N. Side another ambry. The font stands at the E. End of S. Aisle, formerlythe Chapel of the Virgin Mary. _Kinsbourne Green_ is on the Bedfordshire border, 2 miles N. E. FromHarpenden. The Kennels of the Hertfordshire Hunt are here. The hamlet isclose to Luton Hoo Park. _Kitter's Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile S. E. From King's Langley Station(L. &N. W. R. ). Abbot's Langley old church (_q. V. _) is ½ mile N. [Illustration: KNEBWORTH PARK] KNEBWORTH, famous as the home of Bulwer Lytton, lies on high ground 1mile W. From the station (G. N. R. ). The village is small, and in itselfof little interest; it was formerly called Chenepeworde, andKnebbeworth. It is, however, ancient, and was valued in _Domesday Book_. Sir Thomas Bouchier, K. G. , who fought for the Earl of Richmond atBosworth Field, sold the manor of Knebbeworth to Robert Lytton, Esq. , Keeper of the Wardrobe to Henry VII. , whose son William was buried inthis parish. This Sir Robert began to erect a huge Tudor mansion on thesite of a fortress which had stood since the days of the Conquest; ittook several generations to complete it. The present house is the resultof the work of demolition and reconstruction in the days of thenovelist's mother, and of the enlarging of 1883, when the S. Wing andentrance were added; it is pseudo-Gothic. The castellated parapet, cupola-topped turrets, griffins upon pinnacles and many mullionedwindows are noticeable features from the grounds. Within, the finestsight is the grand old banqueting hall, with its gallery for minstrels, its Elizabethan oak-screen, and wainscots by Inigo Jones. Around, on allsides, are suits of armour, some dating from the days of Henry VII. Theroom is associated with memories of Elizabeth, who was sometimesentertained at Knebworth by Sir Rowland Lytton, whom she knighted; hewas buried in the chancel of the little church in the park (see below)in 1582. The room in which Elizabeth slept on these occasions is stillshown as "Queen Elizabeth's Chamber, " and contains a finely carvedover-mantel (oak) and an oaken bedstead of colossal proportions. Amongthe distinguished guests so often entertained here by Bulwer Lytton wereDickens, Forster and Jerrold. The grounds are nearly perfect, art and nature seaming to strive toout-do one another. Well-kept lawns are figured by flower-beds of allshapes and sizes; the rosery is very large; the great variety ofevergreens imparts every hue and shade to the extensive walks stretchingW. From the house. The lawns are divided here and there by stonebalustrades and overlooked by statues of classical and modern figures. There are many nooks, pleasure houses and alcoves. A long avenue oflimes leads to the lake. The church, a little N. From the house, is approached through lodgegates. It is for the most part E. E. The oaken pulpit is octagonal; thefinely carved panels represent scenes in the life of Christ, one of thembears the date 1567. At the N. Side of the chancel, which has a piscina, is the Lytton Chapel, "a little Chapel or Burying Place, built by theFamily of the Lyttons". Among the members of the family buried in thechapel were (1) Dame Judith Barrington, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton, and wife to Sir Thomas Barrington of Hatfield Broad Oak (d. 1657); (2)Sir William Lytton, Kt. (d. 1660); (3) Sir Rowland Lytton, Kt. (d. 1674). To the Sir Rowland Lytton who died in 1582 (see above) there is afine brass with effigy, which also commemorates his wives Margaret andAnne, and his three children. There are other memorials both in thechurch and Lytton Chapel, among which note (1) brass to Simon Bache, Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. And Canon of St. Paul's (d. 1414); (2) brass to John Hotoft, who filled the same office in theHousehold of Henry VI. (d. _circa_ 1430). This brass formerly showedeffigies of Hotoft in armour with his wife beside him. Note also, nearthe S. Porch, two headstones with interesting inscriptions to servantsof the Lytton family, and close by, in the park, the mausoleum erectedby the mother of the novelist, who was buried within its walls. Theepitaph to her memory on the exterior was written by her son. Passingout at the lodge gates we may turn left and reach a pretty dip, fromwhence a walk of 3 miles N. Over open country leads to Stevenage. _Knebworth Green_ skirts the S. Side of the park. _Langley_, a hamlet on the Hatfield-Hitchin road, is 2 miles S. W. FromStevenage Station (G. N. R. ). Langley Bottom is a few minutes' walk N. _Langleybury_ (1 mile S. From King's Langley Station, L. &N. W. R. ) ispractically part and parcel of Hunton Bridge, the church standing W. Andthe village E. Of the main road from Watford to Hemel Hempstead. Thechurch is modern, a Gothic structure; on the S. Is a good lich-gate. Close to the S. Porch is the large cross of Sicilian marble, by theFlorentine sculptor Romanelli, to the memory of the late W. J. Loyd, atwhose expense the church was erected. The walk from Langleybury toBuck's Hill (W. ), by way of West Wood, leads through some lovely bits ofscenery, and should on no account be omitted. At the outset the confinesof Grove Park are on the left and the road dips up and down as the woodsare passed, and is shaded by fine beeches in many spots. _Layston_ was a village in Saxon times, but nothing now remains save theruins of the church, still almost intact, at the meeting of two lanes, 1mile N. E. From Buntingford. It is a flint structure, E. E. And Perp. TheS. Porch is in part demolished. There are monuments to the Crowch familyof seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. LEA, river. (See Introduction, Section II. ) LEAVESDEN (about 2½ miles N. From Watford) is a village in the prettydistrict between Grove Park and Bricket Wood. The ecclesiastical parishwas formed seventy years ago from the parishes of Watford and St. Albans. The huge brick building on high ground a little N. Is theMetropolitan District Asylum for Idiots; it was erected in 1869. Thechurch dates only from the formation of the parish and is situated atGarston, 1 mile E. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is E. E. _TheGrove_, a large mansion of red brick, was erected in 1760 by one of theVilliers family, but has been restored and altered. The house contains apart of the pictures collected by Clarendon; comprising portraits byVandyck, Lely, C. Janssens, Zucchero, Van Somer, Kneller, Hogarth, etc. The park is extensive and beautiful. LEMSFORD is another modern ecclesiastical parish, formed sixty yearsago. It is nearly 3 miles N. From Hatfield, on the S. E. Side of _BrocketHall Park_. It is widely known for its large mill on the river Lea. Thechurch, erected in 1859 as a memorial to the sixth Earl Cowper, is E. E. And Dec. , with a good E. Window, also to the memory of the earl. Thetower (W. ) is lofty and embattled. _Letchmore Heath_ (1½ mile S. W. From Radlett Station, M. R. ) is a smallvillage. _Letchworth_ (2 miles N. E. From Hitchin) has a small Perp. Church, containing a curious old brass to Thomas Wyrley, an early Rector (d. 1475). The effigy represents him with a heart in his hands. Anotherbrass, much defaced, dates from _circa_ 1400; it is to William Overburyand Isabel his wife. The village, which almost adjoins that of Willian(_q. V. _), is ancient, and was once the property of Robert Gernon, aNorman warrior who fought at Hastings. There was a church at _Leceworth_at least as early as _temp. _ Henry I. , for during the reign of thatmonarch it was given "with all its appurtenances and twelve acres ofland" to the monastery at St. Albans. _Letchworth Hall_, now a manorhouse containing some good carved oak, was built by Sir William Lytton(_circa_ 1620), and still bears on the S. Front the arms of that family. _Letty Green_ is close to Cole Green Station, G. N. R. _Levens Green_ (1 mile S. From Great Munden) has a tiny chapel-of-easeerected in 1893. The nearest station is Standon, G. E. R. , 2½ miles E. , between which and the hamlet lies the Old North Road. LEVERSTOCK GREEN (1½ mile S. E. From Hemel Hempstead Station, M. R. ) is ina pleasantly diversified district, at the junction of the roads from St. Albans and Abbot's Langley. It has a modern church, Gothic in style, erected just before the district was constituted an ecclesiasticalparish in 1850. _Ley Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile N. From King's Walden Church, and about 4miles S. W. From Hitchin. It is on high ground. LILLEY, a village on the Bedfordshire border, is 4 miles N. E. From Luton(Beds). It was formerly called Lindley, and Lilly Hoo, and the oldmanor, like so many others, was given to a Norman (Goisfride de Bech)for services rendered at Hastings. The church is of ancient foundation, but was rebuilt, in E. Dec. Style, in 1870-71. Several old memorials arestill preserved, notably those to the Docwra family, early seventeenthcentury. _Putteridge Bury_ (1 mile S. ) is in the centre of a park of 450acres; on or near the site of the house built by Thomas Docwra, J. P. AndHigh Sheriff of Herts, who died there in 1602. The present mansion datesfrom the beginning of last century. _Little Heath_ is on the Middlesex border, 1 mile N. E. From Potter's BarStation. The Dec. Church, just off the Barnet-Hatfield road, is new. LONDON COLNEY, a village on the main road from Barnet to St. Albans, ison the river Colne. The nearest station is that of the G. N. R. At St. Albans, 2¼ miles N. W. The church, built by the third Earl of Hardwickein 1825, is a plain brick structure of Gothic character. Half a mile E. Is _Tittenhanger Park_, a large brick mansion with tiled roof and dormerwindows, built by Sir Henry Blount in 1654. The manor had belonged tothe Abbots of St. Albans, who had a residence on the same spot, commenced during the abbacy of John de la Moote and completed duringthat of John Wheathampsted. Henry VIII. And Catherine of Arragon stayedhere during the "sweatinge sicknesse" (1528). _Long Lane_ is a hamlet near the river Chess, 1½ mile S. W. FromRickmansworth. _Long Marston_, 1 mile N. From the Aylesbury Canal, is a village andecclesiastical parish in the extreme W. Of the county. The neareststation is Marston Gate, 1 mile N. The old church, a small Dec. Structure, was pulled down twenty years ago with the exception of thetower, which stands in the disused graveyard. The new building, adjoining the present burial ground, is Gothic, and contains someportions of the old structure, and its two piscinæ. _Lower Green. _ (See Tewin. ) _Ludwick Hyde_ is in the parish of Hatfield, 3 miles N. E. From thattown. _Luffenhall_, a little hamlet, is in the hollow between Weston andCottered, 5 miles W. From Buntingford Station. The district is one ofwinding lanes and field footpaths so characteristic of the county. _Lye End_, 2 miles S. From Sandon Church, is a hamlet lying W. From theBuntingford-Royston road. [Illustration: OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END] MACKERY END, 1½ mile N. W. From Wheathampstead Station, G. N. R. , is closeto Batford and Pickford mills on the river Lea. Charles and Mary Lambhad talked about the place "all their lives" and the essay by the formerentitled "Mackery End in Hertfordshire" need only be named here. Theplace, as Lamb mentions, was also called Mackarel End. JohnWheathampsted, who became thirty-third Abbot of St. Albans in 1420, wasthe son of Hugh Bostok or Bostock of the village from which he took hisname; his mother was the daughter of Thomas Makery, "Lord of Makeyrend". _Mangrove_ is a hamlet, partly in Offley and partly in Lilley parishes;Mangrove Green is on the S. Outskirts of Putteridge Bury Park, on theBedfordshire border. The nearest station to the latter is Luton (Beds). _Maple Cross_, a hamlet 2½ miles S. W. From Rickmansworth, is near theriver Chess. It lies between Mill End and West Hyde, on the road toUxbridge. MARAN, or MIMRAM, river. (See Introduction. ) _Marford_, _Old_ and _New_, are hamlets on the river Lea. The latteradjoins the E. Side of Wheathampstead village; the former lies ¼ milefarther E. ; the cress-beds, the hand-bridge over the river, and somedilapidated cottages render it a picturesque spot. On the opposite sideof the road from Hatfield to Wheathampstead lies The Devil's Dyke, along, narrow gorge most beautifully wooded. It is a favourite haunt ofthe nightingale, as the writer can testify. MARKET or MARKYATE STREET (3½ miles S. W. From Luton, Beds) is a villageon the high road from St. Albans to Dunstable. The church, a little N. From the village, in Cell Park, is small and uninteresting, with achancel added in 1892. The mansion called Markyate Cell, a littlefarther N. , is old, and occupies the site of the old Benedictine nunnerybuilt by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, at theinstigation of Roger the Monk, the church of which was consecrated in1145. Cowper the poet was at school in the village, at the house of Dr. Pitman. MARLOWES is a suburb of Hemel Hempstead (_q. V. _). _Marsh Moor_ lies between Hatfield Park and Mimms Park. It is a hamletin the parish of North Mimms, 2 miles S. From Hatfield. _Marston Gate_ is little more than the station (L. &N. W. R. ) for LongMarston, 1 mile S. It is nearly the extreme W. Point of the county. _Mayden Croft_, or Maiden Croft, is near the source of the river Hiz, with the hamlet of Gosmore adjoining (S. E. ). Some remains of a moat maybe traced, which are supposed to mark the site of a nunnery. The manoris ancient; in the time of Edward III. It belonged to Sir Robert Nevill, Kt. MEESDON (6½ miles N. E. From Buntingford) has a very ancient flintchurch, probably erected in the thirteenth century, but restored in1877. The S. Porch is Jacobean. The pavement of the Sacrarium is amosaic of many coloured, vitrified tiles; it is almost unique in thecounty and is undoubtedly of great age. There is also in the chancel acurious monument and inscription to Robert Young, gent. (d. 1626). Mostof the population are to be found at Meesdon Green, ½ mile W. From thechurch. On _Metley Hill_, between the Icknield Way and the village ofWallington, may be seen Bush Barrow, one of the many ancient mounds inthe county concerning which so little is known. _Micklefield Green_ (½ mile E. From Sarratt Church) is near the riverChess and the Bucks border. The nearest station is Chorley Wood (Met. R. ) 2 miles S. W. The district is varied and undulating. MILL END (1 mile S. W. From Rickmansworth) is on the Middlesex border, close to the river Colne. The church (modern) is late Dec. In style, andhas several good stained windows. The village and parish were onlyformed in 1875. There is also a hamlet of this name 1½ mile S. W. FromBuckland, on the Royston road. _Mill Green_, at the N. End of Hatfield Park, is a pretty hamlet on theLea, near the old paper mill. MIMMS, NORTH (3 miles N. W. From Potter's Bar Station, G. N. R. ), is in oneof the prettiest districts in the county, although so close toMiddlesex. The church and parsonage are in the park, ½ mile from thevillage. Dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the church is Dec. , unusuallypure in style. It is said to have been built by Sir Hugh de Magneville(_temp. _ Stephen); I should think it more probable that Geoffrey deMagneville, then Lord of the Manor, was the real founder, as stated byChauncy. However this may be, the structure is now almost wholly oflater date. The monuments and brasses are numerous and very interesting;several of the latter, now in the chancel, were moved from theiroriginal positions on the floor during the restoration sixty years ago. Among them we may note (1) large black marble monument in chancelsurmounted by a figure of justice, to John Lord Somers, Baron of Evesham(d. 1716); (2) altar tomb in N. Aisle, with Elizabethan effigy, to aDerbyshire family named Beresford; the inscription is only in partdecipherable; (3) mutilated brass to Sir Robert Knolles (d. 14--), andto Elizabeth his wife (d. 1458); (4) brass to Sir Henry Covert (d. 1488); (5) fine old brass to Richard Boteler and Martha (Olyff) his wife(_circa_ 1560); (6) brass, probably of Flemish workmanship, thought tobe a memorial to William Kesteven, vicar (d. 1361). This effigy isclosely described in Murray. "It is apparently Flemish, and resembles instyle that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans. He is vested in a chasubleand stole, has a chalice on his breast, and over him is a rich canopy, with, on the dexter side, St. Peter, and underneath SS. John theEvangelist and Bartholomew, and in corresponding places on the sinisterSS. Paul, James the Great, and Andrew, with their respective emblems. Above is the Almighty holding the soul of the deceased; at the sidesare two angels swinging censers. " Separated from the chancel by an oakenscreen is the chantry-chapel of St. Catherine, dating from earlyfourteenth century. _North Mimms Park_ surrounds the fine Jacobean manor house of red brick, recently in part restored, but originally built about 1600 by Sir RalphConingsby; it is very extensive and can show some good carving, and achimney-piece dating from sixteenth century. E. From this park is_Potterels_, a modern house standing in another but smaller park, and E. Again from Potterels is the more famous _Brookman's Park_, where, in1682, Andrew Fountaine erected the mansion soon afterwards purchased bythe great Lord Somers who died here in 1716. The house was completelyburnt down thirty years ago and has only in part been rebuilt. Thefurther stretch of park adjoining Brookman's on the S. Is _Gubbins_, ormore correctly _Gobions_, where formerly stood the old manor house inwhich Sir Thomas More lived awhile with his family. The walks in each ofthese parks are very fine, and most beautifully wooded; they commanddistant views in many directions, and, in the autumn, are a perfectstudy in colour. No London cyclist should fail to visit this picturesqueand interesting neighbourhood. MIMMS, SOUTH, recently included in the administrative county of Herts, has a restored, E. Perp. Church, with fine massive W. Tower. The Frowykchantry, at E. End of N. Aisle, contains a very ancient tomb withrecumbent effigy of a knight in armour, under a richly designed canopy. The knight was a Frowyk, and there are also some mutilated brasses tothis family. The village is prettily situated on rising ground, 1½ mileW. From Potter's Bar Station, G. N. R. (Middlesex). _Moneybury Hill_ is on the Bucks border, close to the BridgewaterColumn, 2 miles S. W. From Tring Station. _Moor Green_ (3 miles W. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. ) is a hamletin Ardeley parish. _Morrell Green_ is a hamlet 2 miles E. From Barkway on the Essex border. The nearest station is Buntingford, nearly 6 miles S. E. _Mortgrove_, on the Beds border, is little more than a modern house, 1½mile S. From Hexton. _Munches Green_ lies in the centre of that quiet district of villagesand hamlets which stretches between the G. N. R. And G. E. R. It is a hamleta little S. E. From _Ardeley Bury_ and nearly 4 miles W. From WestmillStation, G. E. R. MUNDEN, GREAT, formerly Mundon Furnival, from Gerrard de Furnival, whowas Lord of the Manor in the time of Richard I. , is a village 2 miles W. From Braughing Station, G. E. R. There is a Norman doorway on the N. Sideof the church, and a small Perp. Reredos which was discovered duringrestoration in 1865. There is a brass in the chancel to John Lightfoot, Canon of Ely (d. 1675). The hamlet of Nasty, a little N. E. From thechurch, now takes Munden Furnival as its alternative name, but the olderhistorians give that title to the district around the parish church. MUNDEN, LITTLE, or Munden Frewell, is 2¼ miles S. W. From the above, and4 miles W. From Standon Station, G. E. R. The church, conspicuously placedon the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it was restored in1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of nave of threebays, chancel, N. Chapel, N. Aisle, N. And S. Porches, and W. Tower. Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S. Side ofthe chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and female, presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the armsand shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb ofSir John Thornbury, Kt. , and his lady; whilst the other is probably thatof his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from about1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a Knightnamed Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the village. _Rowney Abbey_, now a modern mansion, takes its name from RoweneaPriory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and occupied forseveral generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At MundenStreet, or Dane End, ¼ mile S. From Little Munden, were formerly two orthree large tumuli, long since levelled. _Nash Mills_, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of ApsleyEnd, 2 miles S. From Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of SirJohn Evans, K. C. B. , F. R. S. , etc. , the great archæologist, who had a richcollection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc. , some of whichwere discovered in the neighbourhood. _Nettleden_ was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a fewyears ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a woodedhill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and LittleGaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. Structure of stone, with aN. Porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and wasrestored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in LittleGaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir JohnCotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI. , was buried here. The neareststation is Berkhampstead, L. &N. W. R. , 2½ miles S. W. _New Mill_ is 1 mile N. From Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tringand Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rarewater-fowl, are within a short walk. _Newgate Street_, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6miles S. E. From that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to_Ponsbourne Park_. NEWNHAM (2½ miles N. From Baldock) is a village lying on high ground, with an E. E. Battlemented church on a little knoll above a brook. Itconsists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S. Aisle andporch, and W. Tower. The interior can show little of interest, but thereare brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart. (d. 1680); (2) to a family, the man in civic costume (_circa_ 1490); (3) toJoan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children. _Newsell_, a hamlet 1 mile N. From Barkway, lies a little W. From theCambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G. N. R. , 3½ miles N. W. Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. From the hamlet. _No Man's Land_ is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze, stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Someyears ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds, etc. , shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but Iunderstand the collection is now dispersed. In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith "a good white ovatepalæolithic implement, " one of two found on No Man's Land Common. InDecember, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found asomewhat similar implement _in situ_; this latter is engraved in his_Man the Primæval Savage_. At the same time Mr. Smith found twoneolithic celts on the common. _Nobland Green_ (1¼ mile N. W. From Widford Station, G. E. R. ) is littlemore than a farm and a few cottages. NORTHAW (2 miles E. From Potter's Bar Station, G. N. R. ) is a village onthe Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and a place ofconsiderable interest. In the wood N. From the village there lived ahermit named Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He lived aboutthe time of Henry I. , and was buried beside Roger the Monk (see MarkyateStreet) in the S. Aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban's Abbey. Therewas originally a small church close to the village, E. E. Or perhaps lateNorman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St. Thomas Becket, a pseudo-Perp. Structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the presentcruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. With a conspicuous W. Towercarrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and credencetable in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster stone, onmarble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There areseveral memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit andreredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists incanopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registerswere saved from the fire of 1881. NORTHCHURCH, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street with GreatBerkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. From BerkhampsteadStation, L. &N. W. R. The cruciform church is Dec. ; it stands in a smallgraveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious memorial isthe brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was found wild in aforest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the desire of QueenCaroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (_q. V. _) and died in 1785. There is also a curious sentence about this church in Chauncy: "HenryAxtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here April 12, 1625, 1Car. I. " The church was entirely restored in 1883, when the present N. Aisle was added. _Northfield_, a small hamlet, is a little S. From Ivinghoe (Bucks). NORTON, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is 1 mileW. From Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is theThree Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans atthe time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who tookhis name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of thatmonastery. The church, E. E. , is of great antiquity, some parts of ithaving been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N. E. Endof the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none ofhistoric interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through NortonBury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill. _Norton Green_, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is ½ mile W. Fromthe Great North Road. It is a small hamlet. _Nup End_ (1½ mile W. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) is almost one withKnebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S. W. _Nuthampstead_ (about 5 miles N. E. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. ) isa large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W. ), Anstey (S. W. ), and Meesdon (S. E. ) may all be reached within a shortwalk. OFFLEY or OFFLEY ST. LEGER (3 miles S. W. From Hitchin) is a village atthe meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple Dinsley, and Lilley. Itowes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who had a palace here, aswe learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its adjunct to the St. Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the Conquest. MissHester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards Mrs. Piozzi, used as a child to visit at _Offley Place_, in the park close to thechurch. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in 1600, and inpart rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed fromJacobean to a form of Gothic. The church (restored Perp. ) stands in the park, close to the road. Note(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure ofTruth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finelyexecuted; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir ThomasSalusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass witheffigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4)brass to a civilian and his family (_circa_ 1530); (5) well carved Perp. Font. _Offley, Little_, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N. W. From the above. _Offley Green_ is 4 miles N. W. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. The walkbeside Julians[l] Park to Rushden, 1 mile S. W. , is very pleasant. _Offley Holes_ (2½ miles S. W. From Hitchin) is a small hamlet. OffleyGrange, Offley Hoo, Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in theimmediate neighbourhood, W. And N. W. _Old Hall Green_ (1½ mile W. From Standon Station, G. E. R. ) lies W. Fromthe Old North Road. It is a small hamlet. OXHEY (2 miles S. From Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex border. Ithas a good modern church, E. E. In style. N. Lies _Oxhey Place_, on thesite of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir WilliamBucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799. Thechapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those renovators, but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many interestingmonuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. Wall to Sir JamesAltham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an earlierstructure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his robesbetween two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is theeffigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oakseventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. End of thechapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massiveand twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, withcornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudorwindows (replaced). _Oxhey Hall_, N. W. From the chapel, is now a farm;but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteenpanels, which must be very ancient. PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, K. C. V. O, should be visited by all wholove an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almostmidway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 1½ mile N. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. The park is very extensive (about 900acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. To S. E. , opening into alake S. From the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; thewonderful "Panshanger Oak, " one of the very largest in England, standsW. From the house. Panshanger is not a "correct" structure from an architecturalstandpoint; the writer of Murray's Handbook describes it well as "astucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatttype". Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stonemansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they canwell be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper, in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens, was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The olderhome of the family stood at Cole Green--then called Colne Green. The famous _Cowper Collection_ is largely the result of the taste andperseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence. Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen inforeground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; VirginEnthroned, by Paul Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; FirstEarl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer;Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, byJanssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission toview may be obtained when the family are away. PARK STREET, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W. (L. &N. W. R. ), is onthe river Colne, 2 miles S. From St. Albans. The parish church is atFrogmore (_q. V. _). _Parker's Green_ (4 miles S. W. From Westmill Station, G. E. R. ) is ahamlet adjoining Wood End. _Patient End_ may be reached from Braughing Station, G. E. R. , 4 milesS. E. , the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, aboutthe same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury andFurneaux Pelham. _Patmore Heath_ is 1 mile S. E. From the above. _Pepperstock_, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. From theHarpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park. _Perry Green_ (1¼ mile S. E. From Hadham Station, G. E. R. ) is a smallscattered hamlet. _Peter's Green_, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of severalroads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise thehamlet. The descent W. Towards Chiltern Green Station, M. R. , commands afine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several ways (one ishardly more than a lane) lead S. E. To Kimpton, S. To Harpenden, N. ToLawrence End Park, and N. E. To Breachwood Green and Bendish. _Piccotts End_ is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to GreatGaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N. E. Extremity of GadesbridgePark. _Pin Green_ (1½ mile E. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) lies between theGreat North Road and the river Beane. PIRTON (3½ miles N. W. From Hitchin) is an ancient village on the Bedsborder, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in Saxontimes. William I. Gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who foundedthe church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans. Thesite of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W. Fromthe church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originallycruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massiveand embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration hasbeen carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, butsome Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monumentand curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2)double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. Wall of chancel. Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood. _High Down_, S. From the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twistedchimneys and mullioned windows; it was formerly the home of the Docwras. _Pirton Hall_, on a hill N. W. From the village, is also Elizabethan, andthe _Rectory Manor House_ and _Hammond's Farm_ are both ancient. In thelatter is some fine old carved oak. _Plummers_ is 1½ mile S. W. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. It consists ofa few cottages. _Ponfield_ lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a smallhamlet nearly 2 miles S. E. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. _Poplar's Green_ is on the river Maran, on the W. Edge of PanshangerPark. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N. W. The station isCole Green. _Potten End_ (2 miles N. E. From Berkhampstead Station, L. &N. W. R. ) has amodern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N. ). The hamlet is prettilysituated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne. PRESTON (4 miles W. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamletbeautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a smallbuilding a few yards W. From the green, a modern erection; close by isthe Bunyan Chapel, and ½ mile N. Is Bunyan's dell, where the author ofthe _Pilgrim's Progress_ often preached. _Temple Dinsley_, a manor housea little E. From the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory ofthe Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign ofStephen. _Primrose Hill_ is a hamlet in King's Langley parish, ½ mile N. From thestation, L. &N. W. R. PUCKERIDGE, a village on the Old North Road, nearly 1 mile S. W. FromBraughing Station, G. E. R. , was visited by Pepys on more than oneoccasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going leftnearly due N. To Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partlyin Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is atStandon, 1 mile S. E. , but divine service is conducted in the churchschoolroom. _Puddephats_ (3 miles N. W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) is a hamlet inFlamstead parish. _Purwell Mill_, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. From Hitchin, stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa wasdiscovered many years ago, in excellent preservation. PUTTENHAM (1½ mile S. From Marston Gate Station, L. &N. W. R. ) lies nearthe Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. Of the county, on the Bucksborder. The church, close to the village, is of several periods, partsof the structure being E. E. And other portions Perp. And Tudor. Severalportions should be carefully noted: (1) very large embattled W. Tower, built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in squares between eachblock; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from _temp. _ Edward IV. ; withtwo shields under the ridges, one bearing the arms of Zouch, the churchhaving belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3) solid oak pews, probablycoeval with nave roof. The S. Porch was rebuilt in 1889. The vill ofPuteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to Harold Godwin; William I. Gaveit to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux. _Queen Hoo Hall. _ (See Bramfield. ) _Rabley Heath_ (1 mile S. W. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) adjoinsSallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (1¼mile), N. W. And S. W. Respectively. RADLETT, with station on M. R. (main line), is about 5 miles S. From St. Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city. Seen leftfrom the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of the churchshowing among the trees some distance before the station is reached. Thecruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. In style, with several goodwindows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken by turninginto any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley of theColne, W. A potter's kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here. RADWELL, on the Beds border, is in a charming district, threaded by thelittle river Ivel, 1½ mile N. N. W. From Baldock. The mill is reached byturning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old inn, where astory is told of the "Maid of the Mill, " a local beauty, who capturedmany hearts in days long past. [5] Between The Compasses and the millstands the little Perp. Church, very ancient, but in part restored onseveral occasions. It has no tower, the two bells hanging in a smallturret at the W. End of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are severalmemorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1) brass, with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives; thiswas discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but theinscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by somealterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to JohnParker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter wasburied at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage orCage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century. Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reedsthat grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots anddab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill. [Footnote 5: The story of the "Maid of the Mill" is, I understand, toldin an early number of _Temple Bar_. ] _Red Heath_ is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N. N. E. FromRickmansworth. _Red Hill_, 4 miles E. From Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quietneighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, ¾ mile N. W. _Julians_, a substantial house in the park, ½ mile S. , was built earlyin the seventeenth century. REDBOURN (_i. E. _, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling Street, 4 miles N. W. From St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small stream, skirtsthe E. Side of the village. The old manor, like that of Abbots Langley, was given to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the Black andWincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St. Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow wason the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albansis narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction(Section IX. ). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, ¾ mile W. From thestation (M. R. ), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions ofthe ancient structure are the three columns of the N. Aisle arcade, butmuch thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It waslargely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (_temp. _ Henry VI. ). Note(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointedarches of S. Side of nave, replacing those defaced during theCommonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscinæin N. Aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneelingeffigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by. REED lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and Royston, about 3½ miles S. From Royston Station, G. N. R. The village lies rightfrom the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the countyis on the N. Of the little church, which also contains good Dec. Portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixtyyears ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. From the village;Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. Theneighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county. _Revel End_ (1½ mile S. W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) is a hamlet. RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S. W. Of the county; the rivers Colne, Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it iseasy to understand why the place was formerly called "Rykemereswearth, "_i. E. _, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with manyquaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called _BasingHouse_, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn, the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the_Quiver_. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, whoretained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. Granted it toNicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. Granted a market to beheld in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday, but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largelycarried on in the neighbourhood. The church, at the S. End of Church Street, was rebuilt (except thetower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield. It is Perp. , almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints, with stone dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stallsin chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, andinscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wivesAlice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the"Ashbie Chapple" ran--I am not sure if it is still preserved:-- "Here ly byrid undyr this stone Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan". The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it stillretains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century. One mile S. Is _Moor Park_ (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone manychanges. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park inthe reign of Edward IV. , and sometimes entertained that monarch, and weread of a lodge (was it Nevil's house?) being here when Cardinal Wolseyowned the manor of "More Park". The estate changed hands several timesbefore we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke ofMonmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site ofthe present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, aman who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent£130, 000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, withthe assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built stilllargely survives in the present structure, after several alterationsand much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentiethcenturies. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, withfine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high. The vast hall was almost covered with classical and mediæval designs bySir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain hisremuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways. The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; butit must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which wereremoved when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of theeighteenth century. Permission must be obtained before the park, grounds or house can beinspected. The park contains about 500 acres and is famous for itssplendid timber, some of its oaks being of almost perfect developmentand proportions. [Illustration: RICKMANSWORTH] _Rickmansworth Park_, N. From the town, has a modern house wellsituated. The park stretches nearly to Loudwater Mill on the riverChess, and is, like Moor Park, beautifully wooded. RIDGE (2½ miles S. W. From Potter's Bar Station, G. N. R. ) is on theMiddlesex border, close to South Mimms. The village doubtless owes itsname to its situation on the hill. The small church is mainly Perp. , butthe chancel is E. Dec. ; it contains several memorials to the Blountfamily, including one to Charles Blount (1654-93). He was an infidel ofmore bitterness than ability, as may be seen from his translation ofPhilostratus's _Apollonius Tyanæus_; readers may remember that his _JustVindication of Learning_, etc. , was stigmatised by Macaulay as "garbledextracts" from Milton's _Areopagitica_. On being refused a licence tomarry his deceased wife's sister, he committed suicide--Pope says he"despatch'd himself". The Blount family resided in the neighbourhood formany generations; Sir Henry Pope Blount, father of the above-mentionedCharles, "built here a fair structure of Brick, made fair Walks andGardens to it, and died seiz'd thereof". He was the author of _A Voyageinto the Levant_. _Ringshall_ is a hamlet on the Bucks border, in the parish of LittleGaddesden. _Roe Green_ (4 miles S. E. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R. ) is in a pleasantand very quiet neighbourhood. The nearest parish church is Sandon, about1 mile N. E. Roe Wood is a little N. From the hamlet. _Roestock_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is 1 mile N. From thePark. Smallford Station, G. N. R. , is 1 mile N. W. _Round Bush_ consists of a few cottages, 1½ mile S. W. From RadlettStation, M. R. _Row Green_ (1¼ mile S. W. From Hatfield) lies close to the road from St. Albans to Hatfield. Row Hyde is a little farther S. W. _Rowley Green_, on the road from Barnet Gate to Shenley, is nearly 2miles E. From Elstree Station, M. R. [Illustration: THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON] ROYSTON, an ancient market town on the Icknield Way at its junctionwith Ermine Street, was until recently partly in Cambs. It is supposedto owe its name to a Dame Roesia who placed a cross here on the highway, near which spot a monastery of Black Canons was founded by Eustace deMere and others in the reign of Henry II. Early in the reign of HenryIV. The town was almost destroyed by fire. Royston enjoyed severalmarket privileges in the good old days, and it is recorded that early inthe fifteenth century wheat was so plentiful that it was sold in Roystonmarket for 12d. A quarter. The church was erected close to the monastery late in the thirteenthcentury, and at the Dissolution was constituted the parish church. Thirty years ago it was restored, and more recently enlarged, and is nowan imposing structure of flint and rubble, E. E. In style. The tower (W. )is embattled and carries four pinnacles. The fine lancet windows in thechancel were discovered during restoration in 1872, as were also thefragments of the old screen, since pieced together to form the presentpulpit and reading desk. The alabaster effigy in the chancel, of aknight in armour, is believed to represent one of the Scales family. There are several old brasses: (1) to William Taberam, Rector ofTherfield (d. 1432), this was large, but only the upper part nowremains; (2) to a civilian and his wife (_circa_ 1500); (3) to FatherWilliam Chamber, who founded an annual sermon to be preached in thechurch on Rogation Mondays (d. 1546). There are some good modern windowsof stained glass. James I. , who had been entertained at Royston by Robert Chester duringhis progress from Scotland to London, built a lodge near Royston Heath, to which both he and Charles I. Occasionally resorted, the latter beingbrought here as prisoner in 1647. Some cottages still standing on theoutskirts of the Heath are said to have been used for stables when JamesI. Used to hunt in the neighbourhood, and by inquiring for the "OldPalace" visitors will be shown what little remains of his Majesty'shunting lodge. The Heath is now famous for its fine golf links. Beneath the old boundary between the two counties, and close to the PostOffice, is the famous _Royston Cave_, which visitors should not fail tosee. It was accidentally discovered in 1742 by some men who were digginga hole in the market-place, and is now entered by a speciallyconstructed passage under the street. It was visited by Louis XVIII. Hewn out of the solid chalk, its greatest height is about 25 ft. , itsdiameter about 17 ft. It contains curious, and in some cases uncouthfigures and coloured reliefs of saints, kings, queens, etc. , of allsizes and ages, and some crucifixes. The late Joseph Beldam, F. S. A. , wasof opinion that the cave dates from pre-Christian times, that it becamein turn a Roman sepulchre and an oratory, and that it was closed duringthe Reformation. There are still the traces of several tumuli in the neighbourhood, andancient coins, etc. , have been found, but the evidences of any Romanoccupation are not very convincing. Royston is a somewhat quaint town, with some narrow byways andodd-looking houses, amongst which the Old Plough Inn is not the leastnoticeable. _Rush Green_ (1 mile S. From Ware) is a small hamlet. _Rushden_, formerly Risendene and Risden (5 miles S. E. From Baldock), has a stuccoed brick church, Dec. And Perp. Chauncy saw in it, "noInscription, Monument, or other Remark, " but in 1754 the monument of SirAdolphus Meetkerke, Kt. , was brought here from St. Botolph's, Aldersgate. Meetkerke was Ambassador from Flanders to the Court of QueenElizabeth, and the author of several volumes. Note the canopy in nave, thought to have covered a statue of the Virgin. In the reign of HenryII. The patronage of the church was given by William Basset, Sheriff ofLeicestershire, to the Canons and Church of St. Peter's at Dunstable. _Rustling Green_ is midway between Knebworth and St. Paul's WaldenParks. The district is prettily diversified by small woods. By theshortest way through the park Knebworth Station is about 3½ miles E. THE RYE HOUSE, on the W. Bank of the river Lea, is a famous resort offishermen, excursionists and folk wishing to see the Great Bed of Ware, brought here from Ware in 1869. The bed is a huge construction of solidoak, quaintly carved, and large enough to hold twelve adults, as isproved by a story which can readily be found by the curious, but whichis unfit for repetition in these pages. It is alluded to by Shakespeare, Byron and other writers. The present Rye House is modern, but attachedto it are some remains of the old House, some account of which must begiven here. In his description of the "Mannor of the Rye" Chauncy says, "King HenryVI. Granted licence to Andrew Ogard and others, that they might imparkthe scite of the Mannor of Rye, otherwise called the Isle of Rye inStansted Abbot, fifty Acres of Land, eleven Acres of Meadow, eight Acresof Pasture and Sixteen Acres of Wood, erect a Castle there with Lime andStone, make Battlements and Loopholes &c. "[6] The castle built by Ogardpassed into the hands of the Baesh family; it was doubtless in partrebuilt at different times, for what remains of it is of brick. Incourse of time it became the property of Lieut. , afterwards Col. , Rumbold, known as "Hannibal" among his associates, who had been aprivate in Fairfax's famous regiment of 1648. This man was theoriginator of the _Rye House Plot_. [Footnote 6: _Hist. Antiq. Of Hertfordshire_, etc. , vol. I. , p. 383, ed. 1826. ] The story of that plot may be recapitulated in few words. In the springof 1683 Charles II. And James Duke of York were at Newmarket. Rumboldand some of his ultra-Republican friends heard that the Royal partywould return to London by way of Rye House. They met together andarranged to secrete some men in the house, to create a disturbance asthe King passed and to kill him in the confusion which would follow. TheKing escaped--probably, as most writers agree, because he left Newmarketearlier than was expected. The plot soon became known, the Rye House wassearched and many persons were charged with High Treason. Twoillustrious men became implicated, through the allegations of Howard ofEscrick and others--Algernon Sidney and Lord Russell. Both werecertainly innocent, but both were beheaded, and Russell was buried atChenies in Bucks (almost on the Herts border). Rumbold fled to Holland, joined the expedition which Argyle headed in Scotland, and was hanged inEdinburgh in 1685. Visitors to the neighbourhood of the Rye House willperhaps be assured that Rumbold suffered on a tree near by, but such wasnot the case. SACOMBE (4 miles N. W. From Ware) lies scattered over a considerabledistrict. It was long ago called Suevecamp (_i. E. _, Suaviscampus)because of its pleasant situation. The small Dec. Church stands on thehill, at the N. End of the Park; it is of ancient foundation, but wasentirely restored about fifty years ago. There are two sedilia and apiscina in the chancel, and two brasses, to John Dodyngton and Eleanorhis wife (d. 1544 and 1550 respectively). Sacombe Park is beautifullytimbered; the present house of red brick dates from about 1800. ST. ALBANS is one of the most ancient and interesting places in England;it became a city on the foundation of the Bishopric of St. Albans in1877. It may be approached by road from London, (1) by way of Barnet andLondon Colney, the G. N. R. Station (branch from Hatfield) being passed onthe left nearly a mile from the old clock tower and market-place; (2) byway of Edgware, Elstree and Radlett, by which route, after passing St. Stephens, the L. &N. W. R. Station (branch from Watford) is on the rightand the steep Holywell Hill leading to High Street is straight before. The river Ver skirts the entire S. Limits of the city itself; the fieldthat slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. Direction, is called theAbbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey ofSt. Alban. As the ancient Roman city--the _Verulamium_ of Antoninus--stood somedistance to the W. , a brief account of it will be found under theheading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with thedeath of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rodsand beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus, connived at his escape, and adopted his faith (_circa_ 285-305; thedate is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons capturedand destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E. This they named _Watlingceaster_ (the town on Watling Street), but when(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill, the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known asSt. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlierchurch stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soonafter the death of St. Alban. The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roadsmeeting together near the Clock Tower, N. W. From Dunstable, S. W. FromWatford, S. E. From London, N. E. From Wheathampstead. The latter uniteswith the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, ¼ mile N. W. From St. Peter's Church. The four roads, on entering the city, arerespectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St. Peter's Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that calledFishpool Street, which runs from near the W. End of the Abbey to theflour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses inthe neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulleddown. [Illustration: THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S _The oldest Inn in England_] We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing thebridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, passthrough the gate near the river side and keeping the cress-beds onthe left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. Of theAbbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. Frontof the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way intothe city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad _Gate House_, a relicof the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. Pointed arch and vaultedroof. This was originally the entrance to the Abbey court, the "MagnaPorta" of the old monastic days. There was a former structure on or nearthe same spot; this was blown down and the present building dates fromthe rule of Thomas de la Mere, thirtieth abbot (1349-96). Used as a jailsome centuries ago, it has long been known as St. Alban's _GrammarSchool_; the battlemented house S. W. Of the archway is the residence ofthe head master. The claims of this school to be _the oldest in England_cannot be adequately discussed here. Suffice it to say that documentsattesting its existence date from Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119);his successor, Geoffrey de Gorham, came from Normandy to become itsmaster. Matthew Paris records that the school was afterwards kept by anephew of Abbot Warine (or Warren) de Cambridge, and had at that timemore scholars than any school in England. Passing through the arch wenotice on the left a small, triangular burial ground. The spot is calledRomeland. Here George Tankerville was burnt by order of Bishop Bonner, on 26th August, 1556. Passing straight forward into Spicer Street the _CongregationalChapel_, founded in 1797, is on the right. A little farther on isCollege Street; on the left side stands the house in which Cowper wasplaced under the charge of Dr. Cotton when his insanity was mostpronounced. To reach the old _Clock Tower_ we turn right into VerulamStreet and left into High Street. The Tower stands at the S. End of theMarket Place; note the quaint, narrow thoroughfare at its W. Side, called French Row. The Tower is Perp. , of flint and dressed stone, battlemented, and surmounted by a small spire; the basement has longbeen utilised as a saddler's shop. It dates from the fifteenthcentury, [7] but was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1864. In it hangsthe great bell "Gabriel" cast early in the reign of Edward III. ; it isnow used for striking the hour and formerly tolled the curfew. In theforeground, where the drinking fountain now stands, was "Eleanor'sCross, " erected, like the cross at Waltham (_q. V. _), by Edward I. Inmemory of his Queen. It was destroyed about 1700. The old market-place, so quaint even fifty years ago, is now largely occupied by modern shops;partly by reason of a fire which occurred many years back. [Footnote 7: Clutterbuck says it was erected between 1402 and 1427. ] Continuing our way up the market-place we pass the _Town Hall_ or _CourtHouse_ on the right, an Italian structure dating from 1826, and thebroad St. Peter's Street opens before us, leading to the old churchdedicated to that saint. The church is one of three built by AbbotUlsinus in Saxon times; the date of their foundation is very uncertain, but we may bear in mind that the first abbot, Willegod, ruled at theclose of the eighth century, that Ulsinus was the sixth abbot, and thatsix others ruled during Pre-Norman times. St. Peter's Church, largelyrestored by Lord Grimthorpe, is therefore of great antiquity as afoundation; the present structure is chiefly late Perp. With a lofty E. Tower carrying four pinnacles, the latter an addition by the restorer. The position of the tower (elsewhere almost invariably W. ) is explainedby the fact that the old church was cruciform, and that when, at thebeginning of last century, the extreme E. Of the chancel and thetransepts were found much dilapidated they were pulled down, the oldtower thereby losing its central position. Note the E. Perp. Archesseparating nave and aisles; the pulpit a good example of Belgiancarving, and the old stained glass in windows of N. Aisle; the stainedglass in other windows is modern. Concerning the brass to RogerPemberton, Sheriff of Herts (d. 13th November, 1627), a story is told. If the visitor passes out of the churchyard by the N. W. Gate he will be_vis-à-vis_ to the almshouses founded in 1627 on the W. Side of what wasthen "St. Peter's Street, Bowgate". Pemberton is said to have beenshooting in the woods, to have shot a widow by accident, and to havefounded these almshouses for widows, and endowed them with £30 perannum for ever as a salve to his conscience. There is an iron arrow overthe old brick gateway before the houses, which seems to countenance thestory. There were formerly many other brasses in the church, but theinscriptions on some of them must now be sought in the county histories. A few, however, remain, _e. G. _, one with shield of arms to Mrs. Elizabeth Wyndham (d. 1735). In the N. Aisle is the tomb of EdwardStrong (d. 1723), "Master Mason" of St. Paul's Cathedral; in thechurchyard lies Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, the friend of Cowper (see page180) (d. 1788). Among those who fell in the battles of St. Albans (ofwhich more will be said presently) and were buried in this church orgraveyard were (1) Sir Bertin Entwysel, Kt. , Baron of Brybeke inNormandy; (2) Ralph Babthorpe and Ralph his son, of an old Yorkshirefamily. As a matter of fact a great number of the slain were buriedhere; Chauncy says "this Church and Churchyard was filled with theBodies of those that were slain in the two battles fought in this town". The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephenand St. Michael. _St. Stephen's Church_ stands ¾ mile S. W. From the Clock Tower, at thejunction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by SirGilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features;_e. G. _, the late Norman arch in N. Wall, formerly in part separatingthe nave from the N. Aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widelysplayed, in W. Wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have beenformerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. Aisle; (3)fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S. Chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet toEdward IV. , (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife. [Illustration: LORD BACON'S MONUMENT] _St. Michael's Church_, about ¾ mile W. From the Clock Tower, stands ongently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It isbelieved to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancientcity of Verulam (_q. V. _) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It hasbeen restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work wasonly completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from thesurrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeatedrestorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity. There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d. 1430); (2) to "John Pecok et Maud sa femme" (_circa_ 1340-50); but themonument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. Of the chancel, to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April, 1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented assitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobeanruff is round his neck and a wide hat upon his head; the sculptor(unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction tothe countenance. Of Bacon's house at _Gorhambury_, 1½ mile farther W. , little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with projectingentrance[m] porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches aremedallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth. The present mansion, a little E. From the ruins, was commenced in 1778by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, butretains the grand N. Portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthiancolumns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and containsportraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, andother worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments, including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl ofStafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza andWilliam Pitt. [Illustration: RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE] There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:-- (1) The Leper Hospital of _St. Julian_, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen's Church. Of this no vestige remains. (2) The Hospital of _St. Mary de Pré_, for women-lepers, founded aboutfifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, oneither side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in thechurchyard attached to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827, and the cottages known as the "Three Chimnies, " originally part of thehospital itself, were pulled down in 1849. [8] [Footnote 8: _Vide_ _Historical Records of St. Albans_, by A. E. Gibbs, F. L. S. , etc. ; a most interesting little volume. ] (3) _Sopwell Nunnery_, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140, at a spot a little S. From the Old London Road, on the river Ver. Themasses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the"ruins of Sopwell Nunnery, " are, at least for the most part, the remainsof the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted atthe Dissolution. ST. ALBANS ABBEY. --The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restoredthat it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiasticalarchitecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely asto the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completedunder the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and noattempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great anexpert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect mightlove to write would fill a volume in this series. After carefulconsideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as toshow, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have beencareful to compare many authorities and to follow the consensus oftestimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction. It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and otherauthorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdomof St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that itwas almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, OffaII. , who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved tofound a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury, by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the originalabbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban andplaced them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church, intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it isdoubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed, we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church whichmust surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and thefirst hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives ofEaldred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immensequantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam;Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actualrebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066), enriched the building with "certain ornaments"; but it was thefourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores ofmaterial collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on ascale almost commensurate with its present size. The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied elevenyears. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largeststructures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman churchwas 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presentlymentioned. ) On the E. Side of either transept were two apsidal chapels, the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger ofthe two; there was also an apse at the E. End of the presbytery. Asquare, battlemented tower flanked the W. Front on either side; but thechief glory of Abbot Paul's church was undoubtedly the enormous Normantower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry, surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which suchconsiderable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirtyyears ago saw the E. Portion of the nave, the transepts and the towersubstantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey wasdedicated 1115. Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St. Alban in a new shrine. Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), erected the _ChapterHouse_ and _Locutory_ (Abbot's Cloister); his successor, Symeon(1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the _Shrine ofSt. Alban_, raising its height so that it could be seen from the _HighAltar_. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought toSt. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in theE. Aisle. The _Chapel of St. Cuthbert_ in the _Baptistery_, built byAbbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time. Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St. Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silverornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry ofSt. Alban. John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild theW. Front, notably the three fine E. E. Porches now replaced by those ofLord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William deTrumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abboterected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagonabove the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, andprobably built those E. E. Bays on each side of the nave which arenearest to the W. Front. He also restored portions of the S. Transeptand S. Aisle, and rebuilt _St. Cuthbert's Chapel_ on the spot now partlyoccupied by the _Rood Screen_. The E. End of the Abbey next received the attention of thesearchitect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. From the tower, Johnde Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E. E. Workof his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. Thework was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadlyhindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90)built the S. Aisle of the _Retro-choir_, and part of the _Lady-chapel_, but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead(1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb ofSt. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of theDissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeckmarble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. Bays ofthe S. Aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, andcompleted the _Lady-chapel_ at the extreme E. , thereby greatlyincreasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently, however, for a long period, a passage between the _Retro-choir_ and the_Lady-chapel_. Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S. Aisle and repaired the _Cloister_. His successor, Thomas de la Mere, paved the W. Floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almostcontinually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenthcentury; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when Johnde Wheathampsted became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebratedman, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his effortsto beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. That this abbotconstructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this wasperhaps the _Watching Loft_ (N. Of _Saint's Chapel_) in which the keeperof the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time. John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke ofGloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the _WatchingLoft_ (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W. From that of the duke; built the great Perp. Window over the W. Porches, now replaced by one Dec. In design, and the nine N. Windows of _Nave_and _Ante-Choir_; and was probably responsible for the paintingsdiscovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments ofthe _Lady-chapel_. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the _HighAltar Screen_, which he designed, but which was erected by thethirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84). There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and butlittle restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots(1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorationsand present appearance must now be added. Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century. Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainlydiscreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a NationalCommittee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, underwhose direction the building was in part restored; but public fundspresently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertakenby one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to itscompletion--Lord Grimthorpe. The _Abbey_, from the W. Porches to the E. End of the _Lady-chapel_ andthe _Chapel of Transfiguration_, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550feet; the entire _transept_ length from N. To S. , on the floor, 177feet; the _nave_, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet × 75feet 4 inches; the _Lady-chapel_, 57 feet × 24 feet; the great _Screens_are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the _tower_ is 144feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements inthe several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figureswill assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Itsarea is approximately 40, 000 square feet. Of special interest are:-- (1) _The Tower_, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir GilbertScott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfullypreserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. Thefour enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignoranceof early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in suchmanner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous work of SirGilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemealby partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying adurable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring ofeight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiralstaircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almostunrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit. [Illustration: The Shrine of St Alban] (2) _St. Alban's Shrine_ (in the Saint's Chapel between the Altar Screenand the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared aboutthe time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces ofit were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its formersite on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned, stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds offragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches ofthe Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to therestorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments werediscovered and the whole collection, the importance of which wassuspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the lateJohn Chapple. The _feretry_ itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, whichwas supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probablynever will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but therest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery ofthese groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crockettedpediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes fromthe martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus. (3) _Shrine of St. Amphibalus_ (in N. Aisle of presbytery). This wasdiscovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as thatof St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately, incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and thename of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals. (4) _High Altar Screen_, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at theexpense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhapsunique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It wasmuch dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at thetime of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirablyexecuted, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especiallynoticeable: the latter wears a _Celtic_, not a Roman tonsure. Note alsothe figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those ofAdrian IV. , Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others. (5) Chantry Tombs of _Abbot Ramryge_ and _Abbot John Wheathampsted_, occupying respectively the last arches of N. And S. Side of theSanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. Work of the former, and theWheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter. (6) _The Lady-chapel_ (enter through Retro-choir). This formerlycontained much of the finest work in the Abbey and traces of it arestill retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The presentvaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built byAbbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as theGrammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old GateHouse (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its presentstate. Many of its most beautiful features--tracery, mouldings, statuettes, carvings, etc. --had, however, been completely destroyed bythe boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. Windowwas presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful varietyof carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished. From Grose's _Antiquities_ (vol. Viii. ) I quote the following:-- "Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother's side, to Mrs. Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he diedabout sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He livedwhen the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution andremembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, theregimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church . .. All of which hewould often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in theGreat Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot's table, towhich the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at everyfifth step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung ashort hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; andwhen any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality camethither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monkshad waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables, placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in bynovices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner. " _First Battle of St. Albans. _--On _May 23rd_, 1455, the forces of KingHenry VI. Assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter's Street, and wereattacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker. Advancing from the fields E. Of the town, Warwick's men appear to haveapproached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having foughttheir way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke ofYork, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle wasdesperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing aconspicuous part; Henry VI. Was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl ofStafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham inthe face--all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottageof a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of Yorkto the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers duringthe latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey wasprobably spared only because the royal prisoner had been conductedthither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried inthe Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2)Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. SirRobert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts. , andmany squires and other gentlemen also perished. _Second Battle of St. Albans. _--On Shrove Tuesday, 17th February, 1461, Queen Margaret defeated the Earl of Warwick, who retreated withconsiderable loss, the battle being mostly fought out on Bernard'sHeath, N. From St. Peter's Church. This engagement also was stubbornlyfought out. According to Stow and Hollinshead, the Lancastrians werethwarted in their efforts to pass through the town from S. To N. , beingrepulsed by arrows in the Market Place, and eventually reached Bernard'sHeath by a circuitous route from the W. If this is so, visitors whoramble down the High Street, turn right into Katherine Lane, coming outof Wellclose Street near St. Peter's Church, will probably tread in thefootsteps of the troops of Margaret. After the fight had been decidedthe victorious Lancastrians poured back into the town, which was againplundered, and the Abbey also partially stripped. This was during thesecond abbacy of John Wheathampsted, and Stow records that the day afterthe battle Queen Margaret, and the King (Henry VI. ) were led by theabbot and monks to the High Altar of the Abbey, where they returnedthanks for the victory. ST. MARGARET'S, on the river Lea, has a small church with severalunimportant memorials. It was probably formed from one aisle of an olderedifice. _St. Margaret's_ is also the name of a few cottages a little N. W. FromGreat Gaddesden, near the site of the Benedictine convent of _Muresley_, the refectory of which was almost intact early last century. ST. PAUL'S WALDEN (4 miles S. W. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) is alarge and scattered parish; much of it is very picturesque. The church, which was restored twenty years ago, is of several styles, but containslittle worthy of comment. Note the tablet on the W. Wall of the chapelto Henry Stapleford and Dorothy his wife. "The said Henry was servant toQueen Elizabeth, King James and King Charles" (d. 1631). The manor wasformerly called first _Waldene_, then Abbot's Walden, being the propertyof the abbots of St. Albans. _St. Paul's Walden Bury_, ½ mile S. W. Fromthe church, is the seat of Lord Strathmore. Note the fine avenues in thepark, commanding good views of the house. The walk S. To Whitwell, through the steep and twisted lane and across the bridge over the Maran, keeping the "bog" and cress beds on the right, is very pretty. SANDON (3½ miles S. E. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R) has a flint church, probably late fourteenth century. Several features should be noted: (1)Perp. Screen (oak) between nave and chancel; (2) old stained glass inwindows of both aisles; (3) fine Jacobean oak pulpit; (4) old brass, with inscription which was imperfect 200 years back, to "Johannes FitzGeoffery, Armiger" (d. 1480); (5) piscina in each aisle; (6) pinnacledand crocketted arches in chancel, over triple sedilia. The church waspartially restored in 1875. The manor of _Sandone_ was owned by Saxonkings; Athelstan gave ten houses in the _vill_ to St. Paul's, London. The Old North Road to Royston is 2 miles E. SANDRIDGE (2½ miles N. E. From St. Albans) is on the road toWheathampstead, and is a thoroughly typical English village consisting, for the most part, of one street, with the parish church near its N. E. End. The parish stretches northwards to the Lea, and is very ancient;the _vill_ was given by Egfrith, a son of Offa, to St. Alban's Abbey. Itowes its name to the nature of its soil. The church, one of the mostancient in the county, has known much restoration, but still retainsNorman work. It was consecrated as a chapel a few years after theconsecration of St. Alban's Abbey (1115); the chancel was rebuilt byAbbot John Moote (_circa_ 1400). The tower fell towards the end of theseventeenth century and the structure which took its place was pulleddown and reconstructed in 1887. Note the old material in the apex, thePerp. Windows in the aisles, the clerestoried Norman nave and the Normanfont. There are N. And S. Porches. Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, derived his first title, BaronSandridge, from this parish; the Jennings family, from which his wifeSarah was descended, possessed the manor for several generations. _Sandridge Bury_, N. W. From the village, is beautifully situated. SARRATT (1½ mile N. From Chorley Wood Station, Met. Extension) is nearthe river Chess, on the Bucks border. The church is late Norman and isremarkable for the saddle-back roof of its tower, running N. And S. , theonly tower roof of its kind in Herts. The building is cruciform, offlint, dressed with Totternhoe and Caen stone, and has a square ambry, avery old piscina, and a double sedilia; the latter is E. E. RichardBaxter is said to have preached from the Jacobean pulpit. There are afew old memorials. The church is prettily situated, and a picturesquewalk may be taken N. W. To Sarratt Bottom, thence N. E. To SARRATT GREEN, which during the last two or three centuries hasgradually outgrown Sarratt. Note the many fine old cottages on eitherside of the village green. Sarratt owes its name to Syret, a Saxon. SAWBRIDGEWORTH (formerly Sabysford, Sabridgeworth, Saybrichesworth andnow often called Sapsworth) lies at the S. E. Extremity of the county, 4miles S. From Bishop's Stortford. The district is not very diversified, but is open and pleasant. The history of the several old manor housesin the neighbourhood would fill a large volume; those of _Hyde Hall_(E. ) and _Pishiobury_ (S. ) are engraved in Chauncy; the present mansionin Pishiobury[n] Park was built by Wyatt, and has a fine adjoiningrosery. The church stands between the town and the station (G. E. R. ); ithas a good Perp. Screen between the clerestoried Dec. Nave and thechancel, and a large canopied piscina in the N. Aisle. The brasses arenumerous: note (1) to Sir John Leventhorpe (d. 1433) and Katherine hiswife (d. 1431); the former was an executor to King Henry V. ; (2) toseveral other members of the Leventhorpe family, too numerous tomention; (3) to Calpredus Jocelin (d. 147-), and his wives Katherine andJoan; (4) inscription on brass, which was long ago transcribed asfollows:-- "Of your Charite Sey a Pater Nostre and an Ave For the Sowl of William Chaunce On whose Sowl Jesu have Mercy". Several monuments and brasses are to the memory of persons buriedelsewhere. Note the marble altar-tomb in chancel to John Jocelin orJocelyn (d. 1525) and Philippa his wife. _Shafton End_ and _Shafton-Hoe_ lie a little E. From the Cambridge Road, on the Essex border, about 4 miles S. E. From Royston. _Shaw Green_ is 4 miles S. E. From Baldock, near _Julians Park_. SHEEPHALL (2 miles N. N. E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. ) is a littleE. From the Great North Road. It is a small village. The church, E. E. , is approached through a good lich-gate, and contains many memorials, including two sixteenth-century brasses to members of the Nodes family, one of which was Sergeant of the Buckhounds to Henry VIII. , Edward VI. , Mary and Elizabeth (d. 1564). SHENLEY (2 miles E. From Radlett Station, M. R. ) is of interest to manyfor its fine old "lock-up, " or cage, in the centre of the village. Weare on high ground here, and the tower of St. Alban's Abbey is well seenabove the trees to the N. W. The village is scattered along severalconverging roads, and the surrounding country is undulating andbeautifully wooded. Turn down the lane opposite the Black Lion to reachthe old church of St. Botolph, 1 mile N. N. W. From the cage. Note thevenerable yews, and the quaint old grave-boards in the graveyard; alsothe altar-tomb to Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and the architectof St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street (d. At Shenley, 1736). The churchwas partly rebuilt in the middle of the eighteenth century, when thetower was demolished and a structure of timber, with quadrangular tiledroof, eventually erected in its stead. This has disappeared, and the"old parish church" is now an oblong building of flints, chalk-faced, with tiled roof. _Porters_, in the park, a little W. , was the residenceof Admiral Lord Howe. _Salisbury Hall_, a gabled manor house withmassive chimneys, surrounded by a moat, is Jacobean, and stands on thespot occupied successively by the older houses of the Montacutes, and ofSir John Cutts, Treasurer and Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. EugeneAram visited the neighbourhood. _Sleap's Hyde_ (½ mile S. E. From Smallford Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamletin the parish of Colney Heath. _Smug Oak_, a few cottages, lies on the E. Confines of Bricket Wood, ½mile N. E. From that station, L. &N. W. R. _Smyth's End_ adjoins Barley on the S. (_q. V. _). _Solesbridge Lane_, on the river Chess, is close to Chorley Wood. _Southend_ and _Southend Green_ are hamlets, (1) adjoining Stevenage onthe S. , (2) ½ mile E. From Rushden. _Spellbrook_ is a hamlet nearly midway between Sawbridgeworth andBishop's Stortford. _Stanborough_, on the Hatfield-Welwyn road, is midway between Hatfieldand Brocket Hall Parks. The road which branches N. W. From the hamletleads to the modern church at Lemsford (_q. V. _). STANDON has several claims to notice. It is a large village, 1 mile E. From the Old North Road. A little W. , and on the other side of therailway, is the mansion which occupies the site of _Standon Lordship_, afine old manor house, of which hardly a vestige remains. It was longowned by the Sadleir family, most illustrious of whom was Sir RalphSadleir (d. 1587), who fought at Pinkie. (See below. ) The church, largely Dec. , still retains some Saxon foundations, and hassingular features worthy of comment. The embattled tower is separatefrom the main structure, standing on the _S. Side of the chancel_; thechancel is raised much higher than the nave, from which it is approachedby a flight of steps; note the hagioscope on either side of the chancelarch. Within the chancel, on the S. Side, stands the fine monument toSir Ralph Sadleir, consisting of altar-tomb and marble effigy in armour, recumbent beneath a canopy supported by Corinthian pillars; note therelieved figures of his sons and daughters on the lower part of thetomb, also, suspended above, two helmets and other relics. The standardpole captured at Pinkie rests beside the effigy. There are also severalold brasses. Close to the village, at Old Hall Green, are the RomanCatholic College, Chapel and Cemetery; the college was founded atTwyford, Hants, late in the seventeenth century, from whence it wasremoved, first to Standon Lordship, and then (1769) to Old Hall. Thelibrary is large and valuable. STANSTEAD ABBOTS may be easily reached from St. Margaret's Station, G. E. R. , ½ mile W. It was a place of considerable trade at the time ofthe Conquest. The old flint church is E. E. , with a chapel on the N. Side, built by Edward Baesh--whose monument it contains--in 1577. Hewas lord of the manor of Stanstead Abbots and "General Surveyor of theVictuals for the Navy Royal and Marine affairs within the Realms ofEngland and Ireland" (d. 1587). He married Jane, a daughter of Sir RalphSadleir. (See Standon. ) The six Baesh Almshouses were built and endowedby his son, Sir Edward Baesh. Several brasses, some mutilated, are inthe church, notably one near the altar-rails to William Saraye orSaxaye, late of "Grais In" (d. 1581). _Stansteadbury_, a huge gabledmansion, largely rebuilt, stands in extensive grounds, and was the homeof the Baeshs and of their successors, the Feildes. _Stapleford_, a village on the river Beane, is 3 miles N. N. W. FromHertford. The church is Perp. With N. Porch; it was enlarged nearlyfifty years ago, when the present tower was added. STEVENAGE, a town on the Great North Road, has shifted from its originalposition. It once stood farther N. E. And close to the church; but aftera terrible fire which destroyed a large proportion of its houses thevillage was gradually rebuilt more directly on the famous old coachingroad. The first paper mill in England is said to have been built in thisparish. Several of its inns were standing when the regular coaches wereon the road. [Illustration: STEVENAGE CHURCH] The old Church of St. Nicholas, ¾ mile N. E. , is reached through anavenue of limes and chestnuts, headed by a new lich-gate. It is largelyE. E. Note the octagonal pillars and pointed arches of the nave and thetwo small chapels attached to the chancel. The font at the W. End isunder an Early Norman arch. There are several modern windows of stainedglass, and a good brass, early sixteenth century, in the chancel. Thechurch at the S. End of the town was designed by Sir A. W. Blomfieldabout sixty years back, but has since been much enlarged. Half a milefarther S. On the main road are six almost equidistant mounds, thoughtto be of Danish origin. At the old Castle Inn, E. Side of High Street, great numbers of personshave been shown on the rafters in a barn the coffin of Henry Trigg, whose will was proved in 1724; one of its provisions was that his bodyshould not be buried, but disposed of in that way. Little more than amile N. W. From the station, at Redcoats Green, stood, until 1893, "Elmwood House, " the home of the Hermit of Hertfordshire. This man, James Lucas, was descended from a good family, but for reasons neversatisfactorily explained he lived alone, and in a most filthy condition, from October, 1849, to April, 1874. A concise and reliable account ofthis peculiar man is issued by Messrs. Paternoster and Hales of Hitchin. STOCKING PELHAM, on the Essex border (5½ miles N. E. From BraughingStation, G. E. R. ), has an E. E. Church dating from early fourteenthcentury; it has no tower. The chancel was restored in 1864. The manor isvery ancient, and was held by Simon de Furneaux in the reign of EdwardI. , but the village now shows little of interest. _Swangles_ (2¼ miles N. E. From Ware) is a small hamlet a little S. Fromthe river Rib. _Symonds Green_ (¾ mile S. W. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) is a hamletbetween the Great North Road and the ruins of Minsden Chapel. _Symonds Hyde_ Farm and Wood are in a pleasant district, verydiversified, a little S. W. From Brocket Hall Park. Smallford andHatfield Station (G. N. R. ) are from 2 to 3 miles S. And S. W. Respectively. _Tea Green_, a hamlet near the Beds border, lies between BreachwoodGreen and Putteridge Bury. _Tednambury_ and _Tednam Mill_ are on the river Stort and right on theEssex border. Sawbridgeworth Station (G. E. R. ) is 1 mile S. TEWIN (about 2 miles S. E. From Welwyn Station, G. N. R. ) is mostcharmingly situated on high ground above the river Maran. The village isdivided into the Upper and Lower Green; the church, ¼ mile from thelatter, stands on a hill that slopes steeply to the river. Note thealtar-tomb in churchyard to Lady Anne Grimston (d. 1710). The tomb isforced asunder by ash and sycamore trees growing together, acircumstance popularly attributed to the sceptical opinions of LadyAnne, who is said to have denied the doctrine of immortality, and tohave expressed the wish that such a phenomenon should happen if thedoctrine were indeed true. The church, which looks very old, is offlint, brick and rubble, with a large diamond-faced clock on one side ofthe tower. In the S. Porch (entrance blocked up) is the marble monumentto Sir Joseph Sabine (d. 1739); who fought under Marlborough. Note thepyramid, 15 feet high, and the recumbent effigy, dressed as a Romansoldier. There is also in the S. Aisle a good brass to one Thomas Pygott(d. 1610), and a slab with an imperfect Lombardic inscription to Walterde Louthe. _Tewin Water_, in the park, N. W. , is prettily surrounded bytrees. Beautiful walks may be taken in almost any direction, especiallyin the trend of the river Maran towards Digswell and Welwyn. _Tharbes End_ is 1½ mile N. W. From Sawbridgeworth. THEOBALD'S PARK. (See Waltham Cross. ) THERFIELD (3 miles S. E. From Ashwell Station, G. N. R. ) was, according toDugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_, given to the church of Ramsey byEtheric, Bishop of Sherbourne, about 980, and Chauncy "guesses" that anabbot of Ramsey built Therfield church. The present church is a modernDec. Structure, a little W. From the centre of the scattered village. The _Icknield Way_ skirts the parish on the N. And many Roman relicshave been discovered in the neighbourhood. There are also several tumuliin the parish, which lies on high, chalky soil. THORLEY (2 miles S. W. From Bishop's Stortford) can show a good Normandoorway on the S. Side of the little church; note the dog-tooth mouldingand twisted nook-shafts. The remainder of the building is largely E. E. ;there is a piscina in the chancel and--at the W. Entrance--a niche for aholy water basin. The font, as at Bishop's Stortford, was a moderndiscovery. Thorley Wash and Thorley Street are between the church andthe G. E. R. THROCKING (2 miles N. W. From Buntingford Station, G. E. R. ) stands on ahill. The church is E. E. And Dec. , except the upper part of the tower, of brick, added in 1660. The monuments include one by Nollekens and oneby Rysbrack, to members of the Elwes family, of whose manor house thereare still some traces adjacent to the _Hall Farm_. The walk N. W. ToBaldock, by way of Julians Park (7 to 8 miles), leads across open, breezy country. THUNDRIDGE and WADE'S MILL are on the Old North Road, about 2 miles N. From Ware. The river Rib crosses the road at Wade's Mill. The presentparish church, E. E. In style, was built about seventy years ago, closeto the bridge over the Rib; the tower of the old church; "Little St. Mary's, " with a Norman arch stands in the lower meadows ½ mile E. On theW. Side of the Old North Road, close to Wade's Mill, a low obelisk marksthe spot where Thomas Clarkson resolved to give his life to the cause ofthe abolition of slavery. _Titmore Green_ is 1½ mile N. W. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. _Tittenhanger. _ (See London Colney. ) _Todd's Green_ adjoins Titmore Green. _Tonwell_, on the main road from Ware or Stevenage, is a hamlet nearthe river Rib. It has a modern chapel-of-ease. Ware is 2½ miles S. E. TOTTERIDGE, on the Middlesex border, is 1 mile W. From the Station(G. N. R. ). Richard Baxter lived here for a short time. The neighbourhoodis well wooded and very pleasing to the eye. The church, on thehill-top, dates only from 1790; but the site was occupied by an earlierstructure. The memorials are of no historic interest; but near theenormous yew tree in the churchyard stands the tomb of the first LordCottenham (d. 1851). Near by, too, lies Sir Lucas Pepys, physician toGeorge III. (d. 1830). _Totteridge Park_, W. From the village, was theresidence of Baron Bunsen, and of the above-mentioned Lord Cottenham;the large, plain structure in which they lived, recently in partrebuilt, was erected about a century ago, taking the place of the fineold manor house, for some generations the home of the Lee family. At_Copped Hall_, near the church, the late Cardinal Manning was born in1808. TRING is the most westerly place of any importance in Herts. The station(L. &N. W. R. ) is nearly 2 miles E. From the town, which is sheltered onthe N. W. By the chalk hills, a fresh spur of which crops out 3 mile N. E. At Aldbury (_q. V. _). The church (Perp. ) stands near the centre of thetown and is fortunate in having been restored under the direction of Mr. Bodley in 1882. It is an embattled, flint structure; the tower has acorner turret and is, like that at Hitchin, unusually massive. Note (1)the clustered columns of the nave, (2) the quaint corbels, (3) thelarge, imposing monument to Sir William Gore and his wife (d. 1707 and1705 respectively); Sir William was Lord Mayor of London; (4) good Perp. Windows in each aisle. Tring was formerly a considerable centre of the straw-plait industry, which is still pursued to a less extent. The place is of greatantiquity, _Treung_ hundred dating from the days of Alfred the Great. William I. Gave it to Robert Earl of Ewe, and Stephen kindly bestowed itupon the monks of Faversham, "in perpetual Alms for the Health of theSouls of Maud his Queen and all faithful People". Edward II. Granted toTring market rights. _Tring Park_ (property of Hon. N. C. Rothschild) is surrounded byperhaps the most exquisite woods--largely of beech--in the whole county. Much altered in modern times, it is said to have been designed by Wren, and to have been visited by Charles II. The park is well kept, andcontains many living curiosities placed here by Lord Rothschild, a loverof natural history. The _Museum_, at the top of Akeman Street, containing a fine zoological collection, is the outcome of hislordship's energy and benevolence. The _Museum House_, to which it isattached, is a prettily designed structure of red brick, with gables. _Tring, Little_, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N. W. From the town, and TringGrove, a hamlet 1¼ mile N. E. The former is near the large reservoirs, upon which several of the rare birds mentioned in the Introduction(Section IV. ) were observed. _Trowley Bottom_ (3 miles N. W. From Redbourn Station, M. R. ) is a hamleta little S. From Flamstead, in one of the most thoroughly ruraldistricts in the county. The Roman _Watling Street_ (St. Albans-Dunstable road) is 1 mile N. E. _Turnford_ (1¼ mile S. W. From Broxbourne Station, G. E. R. ) is a hamlet inCheshunt parish, on the New River. _Broxbourne Bury Park_ is 1 mile N. _Two Waters_ owes its name to its position at the junction of two smallrivers--the Gade and the Bulbourne. It is in Hemel Hempstead parish, andabout 1 mile E. From Boxmoor Station. _Tyttenhanger. _ (See Tittenhanger. ) _Upwick Green_ (4 miles N. W. From Bishop's Stortford) is a hamlet on theEssex border. _Hadham Hall_ (see Little Hadham) is 1 mile S. VERULAM. Of the old Roman _municipium_ (_Verulamium_) there now remainsabove ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall inthe valley of the Ver, immediately S. W. From St. Albans. Passing underthe old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor, instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, shouldkeep straight on and pass the small gate into Verulam Woods. On hisright as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. Wall of theRoman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushesand trees of many species, was once the _fosse_. Note the greatthickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similarto those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints. Presently both walland fosse turn sharply W. And may be followed in that direction for aconsiderable distance. The walls may also be traced at other spotsfarther W. , particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block, believed to mark the boundary of the _municipium_ in that direction. It has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section IX. ) that the onlyRoman theatre known to have existed in England stood in thisneighbourhood. Its remains were discovered rather more than seventyyears ago in a field immediately W. From St. Michael's Church; nothingis now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered. Thediscovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the _auditorium_, with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls. Many coinswere found among the ruins. Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman _Verulamium_ was thescene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen ofthe Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British andRoman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (A. D. 61). Anaccount of this is in the _Annals_ of Tacitus. The place wassubsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it_Watlingceaster_, or _Werlamceaster_. _Wade's Mill. _ (See Thundridge. ) _Wakely_ (2 miles W. From Westmill Station, G. E. R. ) is a hamlet inWestmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages. WALKERN (4½ miles E. From Stevenage) is a large village, with manypicturesque nooks and cottages. The river Beane skirts it on the E. Side. The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of "Walkerne" as a town, and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. End, presumably where Walkern Mill now stands. The church, on a knoll slopingto the Beane, is mostly Perp. , but retains Norman work in the S. Aisle;the chancel is modern, E. E. In style. The effigy in Purbeck marble in arecess of S. Wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to representone of the Lanvalei family. If so, it forms an interesting link with aremote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid ahundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey "that his daughtermight marry the heir of William de Lanvalley". There are also effigieson brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). _Walkern Hall_(1 mile S. E. ) stands in a small but pretty park; _Walkern Bury_ (1 mileE. ) can still show some remains of a castle. WALLINGTON (3½ miles E. From Baldock) lies in one of the most quietdistricts of the county, a district almost entirely agricultural. Thevillage is small; a few cottages are ancient and picturesque, but thereis little to notice. Take the lane opposite the Plough Inn to reach thechurch, which can show a good Perp. Roof and screen, and some mutilatedmonuments and brasses in the chapel. The main structure is Dec. ; but thechancel was rebuilt forty years ago. A walk affording views verycharacteristic of Herts may be taken from the footpath near the walledpond adjoining the church, by bearing S. S. E. To Red Hill, Rushden andCottered. _Walsworth_, a hamlet, is almost a suburb at the N. E. End of Hitchin, ½mile from the station. [Illustration: WALTHAM CROSS] WALTHAM CROSS, on the London-Cambridge road, owes its name, as is wellknown, to the Cross which Edward I. Erected to the memory of QueenEleanor about 1¼ mile W. From Waltham Abbey. The cross stands a littleW. From Waltham Station (G. E. R. ), where the above-mentioned road meetsthat which leads E. To the Abbey. Although frequently restored it isperhaps even now more complete than any other Eleanor Cross stillexisting. (That erected at St. Albans, as already stated, was destroyedabout 200 years ago. ) It is, I believe, disputed as to whether it wasdesigned by Pietro Cavalini or not; it was completed in 1294. It ishexagonal in shape, of three stages, diminishing from basement tosummit; the details of its sculpture can be readily seized by examiningMr. New's drawing. The restoration of 1833 was worked in Bath stone;this was largely replaced by new material, in Ketton stone, only afew years ago, at which time the Old Falcon Inn, which projected almostto the cross, was pulled down, thus affording a view of the monumentfrom all sides. The Four Swans, close to the cross, dates from 1260, as is testified onthe large, quaint sign-board which swings above the road; but only a fewportions of the present structure are of any great antiquity. There is amodern church a little N. From the cross; but much of the districtcommonly called Waltham is in Essex. Of great interest to visitors, however, and about 1 mile W. From the Cross, is _Theobald's Park_, abrick mansion erected about 150 years back by Sir G. W. Prescott, Bart. At one of the entrances to the park stands Temple Bar, brought here fromFleet Street and erected in its present position in 1888. The house doesnot occupy the site of the historic manor house visited by so manysovereigns, which stood on a slight eminence some distance to the N. W. It was William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, who commenced to buildthat famous mansion in 1560, and enlarged it considerably when he foundit pleasant in the eyes of many persons of high degree. Queen Elizabethwas frequently a visitor at Theobalds. It was Burghley's son, RobertCecil, who entertained James I. Here as that monarch was on his way toLondon and the English Crown, and James became so pleased with the houseand its surroundings that he obtained it from Cecil, giving him theroyal manor of Hatfield in its stead. It was from _Theobalds_ thatCharles I. Set out to raise his standard at Nottingham (1642). The housewas partially destroyed during the turmoil that ensued; after theRestoration it was given by Charles II. To George Monk. It wassubsequently the property of the Earl of Portland and of several otherpersons. WARE was for a long period, and is perhaps now, the centre of the malttrade in Herts, but brickmaking is also extensively carried on. Theriver Lea skirts the town on the S. Side, and is crossed by an ironbridge near the Barge Inn. The High Street displays many new houses andshops, but by turning into the smaller by-ways visitors may find quaintcottages and picturesque nooks and corners. The town is very ancient, but contained only a few persons at the time of the Conquest. The cruciform church of St. Mary has been much restored; the body of thepresent structure is Dec. ; but the tower and chancel are Perp. Note (1)the carved oak screen separating the S. Transept from the Lady-chapel;(2) sedilia, piscina and ambries in the chapel itself; (3) octagonalfont (_temp. _ Henry IV. ), bearing figures of saints on its panels; (4)mural monument in S. Transept to Sir Richard Fanshawe; (5) brass to W. Pyrry or Pyrey (d. 1470) and his wives Agnes and Alice, the inscriptionwas apparently never completed; (6) curious brass figure near pulpit. There is also a modern church in the New Road, E. E. In style, of KentishRag and Bath Stone. There was a Franciscan Priory a little W. From the church, which, although sometimes said to have been founded by Margaret, Countess ofLeicester (_temp. _ Henry III. ), was probably of much earlier foundation, though doubtless enlarged by that lady. It fell into decay after theDissolution, but some remains of the old buildings are still to be seenat _Ware Priory_, a mansion occupying the site. The property formed aseparate manor, which was given to the Countess of Richmond by her son, Henry VII. Ware is not without literary association. The Johnny Gilpin, on the roadto Amwell, commemorates the hero of Cowper's ballad; Pepys mentions hisvisits to the town on several occasions; Dick Turpin, as the story runsin Ainsworth's _Rookwood_, passed through Ware in his famous ride toYork; Godwin, who figures so largely in the Lamb literature, was forsome years the Independent minister of the town. By a long ascent N. From the town, we reach, by turning right, the hamlet of _Ware Side_, picturesquely scattered over a slight depression close to _Widford_(_q. V. _). W. From the town is _Ware Park_, a mansion on a beautifuleminence. _Warren's Green_ (about 4 miles N. E. From Stevenage Station, G. N. R. ) isa small hamlet. _Water End_, on the river Gade, is on the S. W. Confines of GaddesdenPark. There are also hamlets of the same name (1) close to Ayot Station, G. N. R. ; (2) at the E. Extremity of Mimms Park, 2 miles N. W. FromPotter's Bar Station (Middlesex). _Waterford_ and _Waterford Marsh_ are in Bengeo parish, on the riverBeane. On the marsh is some grazing common, free to all parishioners. _Waterside_ is the name of a few cottages (1) on the river Gade, nearKing's Langley village; (2) at Mill Green, 1 mile N. E. From Hatfield. WATFORD, including its quickly rising suburbs, is much the largest townin Hertfordshire. The Colne crosses the high road where it dips beforerising towards Bushey, and Chauncy says that the town derives its namefrom the Wet Ford by which the river is crossed. The building of theJunction Station (L. &N. W. R. ), N. E. From the High Street, did much tofacilitate the growth of Watford and extend its trade; the railroaddiverges S. W. To Rickmansworth only, and N. E. To Bricket Wood, ParkStreet and St. Albans; the main line from London passes through a longtunnel before reaching King's Langley Station. The antiquities of thetown itself are less interesting and indeed less known than those ofother towns in the county, and Chauncy, _e. G. _, finds little to sayabout it. The manor was long held by the abbots of St. Albans; then itbecame Crown property, and after several changes of ownership passed toWilliam, fourth Earl of Essex, whose descendants are still lords of themanor. The parish church, on a small yard adjoining the S. Side of the HighStreet, is Perp. , and was well restored about fifty years ago; with its_Katherine-_ and _Essex Chapels_ it forms a large and imposingstructure. The latter chapel was built in 1595 by Bridget, Countess ofBedford. Its monuments are very numerous and comprise (1) to Sir CharlesMorison, Kt. (d. 1599), and Dorothy his wife; note the fine kneelingeffigies; (2) to Sir Charles Morison, K. B. , son of the foregoing (d. 1628), and the Hon. Mary (Hicks) his wife, with recumbent effigies oneabove the other, and attendant figures of a daughter and two sons (notethe Corinthian columns which support the canopy overshadowing thewhole); both these Morison monuments were the work of Nicholas Stone, mentioned in Walpole's _Anecdotes_; (3) altar-tomb to the founder of thechapel (d. 1600); (4) altar-tomb with Tuscan columns and recumbenteffigy to Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Russell (d. 1611). Among thebrasses are those to (1) Henry Dickson (d. 1610); George Miller (d. 1613) and Anthony Cooper, "servants to Sir Charles Morryson, Kt. "; (2)imperfect, Hugo de Holes, Justice of the King's Bench (d. 1415), andMargaretta his wife (d. 1416); (3) Henry Baldwyn of Reedheath (d. 1601), Alice, his wife, and three children; (4) James Moss, a messenger toGeorge II. (d. 1758). There are modern churches: (1) St. John's, in the Sutton Road, a Gothicedifice completed in 1893; (2) St. Andrew's, near the Junction, E. E. Indesign, with a good stained glass window in the S. Aisle, and abeautiful Roman Catholic church by Bentley, architect of Westminstercathedral. In Beechen Grove is one of the finest Nonconformist (Baptist)chapels in the county; it dates from 1878 and is Italian in design. Market day is on Tuesday. CASHIOBURY PARK stretches from the N. W. End of Watford, reaching--together with Grove Park, which it joins--to the parting ofthe ways at Langleybury Church (4 miles N. W. From Watford Old Church). It is crossed from N. To S. By the river Gade. The present mansion datesfrom 1800; it was built by Wyatt for the fifth Earl of Essex. Disposedaround an open courtyard, its many handsome apartments make a nobleappearance; what was formerly part of the N. Wing of the old mansionbuilt by Sir Richard Morrison and his son Charles in the sixteenthcentury is still retained, although that house was largely rebuilt bythe first earl, from designs furnished by Hugh May. There is a finelibrary, and three smaller ones, the collection of books being veryvaluable; but in the estimation of many the pictures are still more so. Among them may be named: (1) Arthur Lord Capel and his family, C. Janssens; this was the Capel who defended Colchester and was beheaded in1649; (2) Charles II. , by Lely; (3) fifth Earl of Essex as a boy withhis sister, by Reynolds, in frame carved by Grinling Gibbons; (4)Countess of Ranelagh, full length, by Kneller; (5) portrait by Rubens, probably of Charlotte de la Tremouille, afterwards Countess of Derby;(6) "Moll Davis" (actress), by Lely. There are many others, especiallyfurther portraits of the Capel family. The park and grounds arebeautifully laid out. The park is open to the public; but the house isshown only by special request. WATTON or WATTON AT STONE is a large village on the Hertford-Stevenageroad and the river Beane, 3½ miles S. E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. Its position is very central, the roads from Ware, Hertford, Great andLittle Munden, Walkern, Stevenage, Welwyn and Tewin all convergingwithin the area of the main street. The church, at the S. End of thevillage, is Perp. ; it was entirely restored in 1851. Note (1) piscinaand triple sedilia in chancel; (2) doors formerly leading to rood loft;(3) curious tombstone, E. E. , in the churchyard; (4) E. Window of stainedglass, dating from the Restoration; (5) memorial window in the S. Aisleto Lady Catherine Barrington. The brasses are unusually old andinteresting, _e. G. _, (1) with canopied effigy, to Sir Philip Peletot (d. 1361); (2) to Sir E. Bardolf (d. 1455); the effigy is that of his wife, his own having been long missing; (3) to John Boteler (Butler) andfamily (1514). The Boteler family, to whom there are many othermemorials in the church, lived for many generations in the manor houseof Woodhall, burnt in 1771. The house stood on high ground in thebeautiful _Woodhall Park_, E. From Watton Church, on the site occupiedby the present fine mansion (Abel Smith, Esq. , J. P. ). The Beane flowsthrough the park and has been widened to form a large sheet of water S. From the house. _Welham Green_ is between Hatfield- and Mimms Parks, 2 miles S. FromHatfield Station. _Wellbury_ is 3 miles W. From Hitchin. _Wellbury House_ (modern) standsin a small park; two small places of few inhabitants, called "Old" and"New" Wellbury, lie on the N. E. Outskirts of the Park. WELWYN, a small town in the Maran Valley, can show little of interestbeyond many quaint cottages, and the church, famous as that in which Dr. Edward Young, author of _Night Thoughts_, officiated from 1730 to 1765. He was buried in the church; the mural memorial to him was erected byhis son. The church is Dec. , with E. E. Portions; the piscina in thechancel is ancient, the sedilia is modern. An inventory of the churchfurniture, taken in 1541, shows that there were formerly three altars init. The avenue of limes in the rectory grounds was planted by Young;there is a Latin inscription to the poet on a pedestal at its upper end. His son was visited here by Dr. Johnson and James Boswell. The walk S. E. To the station (1¼ mile) commands a fine view of the GreatNorthern viaduct of forty arches over the deeper portion of the MaranValley. On the opposite (left) side of the road is _Locksleys_, a goodmansion by the river side, surrounded by charming grounds. One mile S. Is _The Frythe_, long the residence of the Wilshere family; at a ratherless distance N. Is _Danesbury_, a prettily designed mansion in a smallpark. "King Etheldred . .. Willing to relieve his people from the barbaroususuage and the inhuman actions of the insulting Danes . .. Sentinstructions to the Governors of all cities, boroughs and towns in hisdominions, commanding, that at a certain hour upon the feast of St. Brice, all the Danes should be massacred; and common fame tells us thatthis massacre began at a little town called Welwine in Hertfordshire, within twenty-four miles of London, in the year 1012, from which Act, 'tis said this Vill received the name of Welwine, because the Weal ofthis county (as it was then thought) was there first won; but the Saxonslong before called this town Welnes, from the many springs which rise inthis Vill; for in old time Wells in their language were term'd Welnes. " One of the springs in the neighbourhood, now disused, was famous inYoung's day for its chalybeate waters. _West End_ is a hamlet 2 miles S. W. From Cole Green Station, G. N. R. Itlies close to the N. W. Corner of _Bedwell Park_, with the river Lea 1mile N. _West Hyde_, in the extreme S. W. Of the county, near the river Colne, has a modern cruciform church, Italian in style. WESTMILL, a church and picturesque cluster of cottages in a hollow alittle W. From the Buntingford Road, is 1½ mile S. From that town. Theriver Rib runs between the church and the station (G. E. R. ). The manor isancient; it was given by William I. To Robert de Olgi. Nathanial Salmon, author of a _History of Hertfordshire_ published in 1728, was oncecurate here. The church very probably dates from the end of the thirteenth century, and is an E. E. Flint structure. There are some old slabs in the chancelto the Bellenden family, and one on the nave floor bearing aninscription to one Thomas de Leukenor (?). _Westmill Green_ is a hamlet 1½ mile S. W. From Westmill Station, G. E. R. WESTON, a large village 3 miles S. E. From Baldock, has an interesting, restored church, dating from about 1200. It has a N. Transept, in whichare two good Norman windows; a piscina, E. E. , is in the nave. Themassive embattled tower, which carries an octagonal, N. E. Turret, wasrebuilt in 1867. In the churchyard may be seen two small stones, aboutfour yards apart, which, according to local tradition, mark the grave ofthe Weston giant. The church was once a property of the KnightsTemplars. There is what seems a second village just where a narrowfootpath leads from the Lufen Hall Road to the church, which stands ½mile E. From the long main street. Many folk may still be noticedplaiting in the neighbourhood. _Weston Dane End_ (1½ mile S. From the above village) is a hamlet onthe road to Walkern. _Westwick Row_ (2 miles S. E. From Hemel Hempstead) is a hamlet nearLeverstock Green, in a charming neighbourhood. WHEATHAMPSTEAD lies in a hollow, in the valley of the Lea. Cyclistsapproaching the village from St. Albans by way of Sandridge and No Man'sLand must beware of the steep descent from the Old Red Cow to the SwanInn. The place undoubtedly owes its name to the fine wheat grown in theneighbourhood; it is very picturesque, particularly around the churchand vicarage, and by the waterside towards _Brocket Hall_. The cruciform church, W. From the centre of the village, is E. E. AndDec. With a few Perp. Features. A doorway in the _Brocket Chapel_ issupposed to be Saxon, but I cannot say whether the supposition iscorrect; the chapel also contains an altar-tomb with effigies of SirJohn Brocket and his wife, Margaret, bearing date 1543, and a piscina inthe S. Wall. A brass of much interest is that to Hugh Bostock and hiswife, Margaret (_circa_ 1450), showing their figures in robes. Thesepersons were the parents of John de Wheathampsted. (See St. Albans. ) Anold marble tablet is to John Heyworth (d. 1558) and his wife Joan. Notealso the monumental effigies in N. Transept to Sir John Garrard, Bart. (d. 1637), and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1632). The _reredos_ is very fine. Forty years ago the village was truly rural, but the rebuilding of theold mill between the church and station (G. N. R. Branch from Hatfield toDunstable) and the erection of several modern shops in the main streethas altered its appearance. _Wheathampstead House_, close to thestation, is the seat of Earl Cavan; _Lamer Park_, a little N. , slopespleasantly towards the fine home of A. G. B. Cherry-Garrard, Esq. Mention must be made of the curious bronze vessel of the Anglo-Saxonperiod, resembling a teapot, found in the neighbourhood some years ago. It is figured and described in the recently published _Victoria Historyof Hertfordshire_. _Wheathampstead Cross_ (1½ mile S. E. From Harpenden Station, M. R. ) is 2miles S. W. From the above village. It contains nothing but a fewcottages. _Whempstead_, a hamlet in the centre of the county, is not easilyreached, being about 5 miles E. From Knebworth Station, G. N. R. , andrather farther N. W. From Ware. The so-called _Whempstead Chapel_, recently demolished, was a small cottage, but it doubtless stood nearthe site of an old chapel "founded and endowed about the beginning ofthe thirteenth century by the family of Aguillon". _White Barns_, near the Essex border, is a hamlet ¾ mile N. FromFurneaux Pelham (_q. V. _). _Whitwell_ (4½ miles S. W. From Stevenage) is strictly a hamlet, but is aplace of some size, scattered along the S. Bank of the river Maran. Thenearest parish church is at St. Paul's Walden (_q. V. _), but there is amodern Baptist chapel near the centre of the main street, and a smallchurch on the Bendish Road, formerly owned by the Countess ofHuntingdon's Connection; it is now partially disused. The mill at the E. End of the village, near the old tan-yard, was burnt down many yearsago, but has since been rebuilt. _Widbury_ is 1 mile E. From Ware. WIDFORD, so interesting in the eyes of all lovers of Charles Lamb, is asmall village on the river Ash, with a station (G. E. R. ) a few minutes W. From the church. Visitors, however, must remember that much in theneighbourhood has changed since Lamb's day. He himself recorded thedemolition of the old house "Blakesware" or, as he wrote it, "Blakesmoor, "[o] which he knew so well as a child; the church spire, mentioned in his verses "The Grandame, " was rebuilt many years back; thecottage at _Blenheim_ close by, immortalised in _Rosamund Gray_, waslong ago rebuilt. The church is Dec. And Perp. ; there are sedilia in the chancel, the roofof which was finely painted by Miss Gosselin forty years ago, and thereis a piscina in the nave. The circular stone staircase that formerly ledto the old rood-loft was built up during restoration. The present E. Window is to the memory of John Eliot--the missionary to theIndians--born at Nazing early in the seventeenth century. There are veryfew memorials; one might almost repeat the words written of the churchtwo centuries ago, "In this church are no gravestones". The manor isvery ancient and was held in the reign of William I. By the Bishop ofLondon. _Wigginton_ lies on very high ground, commanding splendid views. Thevillage is about 1½ mile S. W. From Tring Station, L. &N. W. R. ; the church, near the parting of the roads at its S. E. Extremity, is a small flintstructure, E. E. In style, with a modern N. Aisle. It has no tower. _Champneys_, near Wigginton Common (1 mile S. ), is a prettily situatedmansion, rebuilt in 1874. It was formerly the residence of the Valpyfamily. _Wilbury Hill_, between Ickleford and Baldock, is crossed by the RomanIcknield Way. The _vallum_, through which the Way passes, is thought tomark the site of a Roman camp; Stukeley's suggestion that it wasprobably the site of a British _oppidum_ is questioned by Salmon(_History of Hertfordshire_, 1728). Roman coins have been found in someabundance in the neighbourhood, notably a silver _Faustina_. _Wild Hill_ is between Hatfield and Bedwell Parks. _Willian_, formerly Wylie (2 miles N. E. From Hitchin Station, G. N. R. ), is very ancient, mention of it as a property dating from the times ofthe Mercian kings. The village lies 1 mile W. From the Great North Road. The church is thought to date from the Conquest, but only an arch in thechancel is Norman. Note (1) the monument to "Edvardus Lacon" (d. 1625), and Joanna his wife (d. 1624); (2) small brass to Richard Goldon, aformer vicar (d. 1446--? 1417). A tiny graveyard surrounds the church. _Roxley Court_ (½ mile S. ) is the property of Colonel Mortimer Hancock. _Wilstone_, near the Aylesbury Canal, lies in a hollow 2 miles S. E. FromMarston Gate Station, L. &N. W. R. It has a modern church, E. E. In style, consisting of nave only. _Windridge_, a ward of St. Stephen's parish, is 1½ mile S. W. From theL. &N. W. R. Station at the foot of Holywell Hill, St. Albans. _Winter Green_ is on the N. W. Confines of Knebworth Park, about 1 milefrom the church and 2 miles from the station (G. N. R. ). The neighbourhoodis on high ground. _Woodend_ (3½ miles S. W. From Westmill Station, G. E. R. ) has a numerouspopulation, but is, I believe, a hamlet in Ardeley parish. The modernChapel of St. Alban the Martyr is built largely of small stones, and hasa S. Porch. _Walkern Park_ is ¾ mile S. W. _Woodhall_ (1½ mile N. N. E. From Hatfield) is a scattered hamlet betweenStanborough and Hatfield Hyde. Two farms and several cottages bear thename. Woodhall Woods are a little farther N. _Woodhill_ (about 3½ miles S. E. From Hatfield) is prettily situated, with _Brookmans_, _Hatfield_ and _Bedwell_ Parks all within a shortwalk. St. Mark's Chapel-of-Ease was rebuilt in 1880, although originallyerected only in 1852 by the then Marquess of Salisbury. _Woodside_ is the name of at least three small places, (1) in theneighbourhood of Hatfield, where Upper and Lower Woodside are at theS. E. Side of the park; (2) a ward in the parish of Cheshunt; (3) in theparish of Leavesden. _Woollen's Brook_, on the Hoddesdon-Hertford road, has a tiny MissionChurch. It is a small hamlet, a little S. From Haileybury College. _Woolmer Green_ lies on the Great North Road, 1 mile S. E. From KnebworthStation, G. N. R. The roads from Welwyn, Stevenage and Bramfield meet atthe S. End of the street. The hamlet is considerable. WORMLEY (1 mile S. W. From Broxbourne Station, G. E. R. ) is on the NewRiver. The church is at _Wormley Bury_, ½ mile W. From the village; itis very ancient, but was restored twenty years ago. Note (1) Normanfont; (2) small Norman doorway on N. Side; (3) "The Last Supper, " byGiacomo Palma, a fine picture over the communion table; (4) rebuiltchancel arch; (5) Perp. Windows in nave; (6) tablet on S. Wall to Goughthe antiquary (d. At Enfield, 1809). Gough completed a translation of aFrench history of the Bible in his thirteenth year, which was printedfor private circulation; he subsequently translated Fleury's work onIsraelitish customs and edited Camden's _Britannia_. He bequeathed manyMSS. To Oxford University. The church contains other modern monuments, and there are brasses (1) toJohn Cleve, Rector (d. 1404); (2) to Edward Howton (d. 1479), his wifeand family; (3) to John Cok, his wife and eleven sons; date uncertain, but presumably fifteenth century. Cok or Cock was the name of a very oldfamily in the neighbourhood, especially at Broxbourne. WYDDIAL (1½ mile N. E. From Buntingford) was called _Widihale_ in_Domesday Book_, and was given by William I. To Hardwin de Scalers. Thewalk from Buntingford up the hill to the ruined church at Layston(_q. V. _), and thence to this village, leads through some of the quietestspots in the county. The church is E. E. , and stands on high ground a fewyards N. From the road and about 1 mile W. From the river Quin. It wasrestored sixty years ago; but still retains two seventeenth-centurystained-glass windows in the aisle, and two Jacobean screens. The littleN. Chapel of brick was built by one George Canon in 1632. The brassesinclude (1) to George Gyll, Lord of the Manor (d. 1546); (2) to DameMargaret (Plumbe), a daughter of Sir Thomas Neville, Kt. , and wife toSir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls (d. 1575). There are manymemorials to the Goulston family, several of whom were Lords of theManor; that to Sir Richard Goulston (d. 1686) bears a long inscriptionin Latin. _Wyddial Hall_, in a small park close to the church, was theproperty of the Goulstons. WYMONDLEY, GREAT or MUCH, is nearly 2 miles S. E. From Hitchin Station, G. N. R. The church dates from early in the twelfth century, but has beenmuch restored. The font, the chancel arch, and three windows in thechancel are said to be Norman; the tower is Perp. The memorials areunimportant. The neighbourhood is interesting. The Lords of the Manor of WymondleyMagna were formerly, as the newspapers have recently reminded us, Cup-bearers to the King at his Coronation. Near the church are sometraces of an ancient fortification; a little S. , and opposite a row ofquaint cottages with heavily thatched roofs, stands _Delamere House_, once the property of Cardinal Wolsey, who is said to have been visitedhere by Henry VIII. At the _Manor Farm_, Edward VI. --according totradition--once slept; the Green Man, close by, on the W. Side of themain street, has been kept by successive generations of one family for300 years. Forty years ago several Roman urns were discovered in theneighbourhood, and the well-preserved pavement of a Roman villa wasunearthed, subsequently, at Purwell Mill, between the village andHitchin. Prehistoric implements have also been found. WYMONDLEY, LITTLE, formerly Wymondley Parva, is 1 mile S. From theabove. The E. End of the street is crossed by the G. N. R. Near the tinychurchyard. The church is Perp. ; and was largely rebuilt in 1875; twoearlier structures are thought to have occupied the site. It containsseveral inscriptions, and some monuments to the Needham family(seventeenth century). A Priory of Augustinian Canons, dedicated to St. Mary, was founded here by Richard Argenton, in the reign of Henry III. ;it was suppressed at the Dissolution. When, in 1891, the _Old Priory_farm-house was being altered, some portions of two E. E. Arches weredisclosed, and are thought to show where the cloister of the _Priory_stood. There is another E. E. Arch in the house. YARDLEY. (See Ardeley. ) _Youngsbury. _ (See High Cross. ) INDEX OF PERSONS A Abbot d'Aubeny, 62, 179, 188 ---- Eadmer, 186 ---- Ealdred, 186 ---- Geoffrey de Gorham, 148, 179, 184, 185, 187 ---- Hugh de Eversden, 189, 194 ---- John de Berkhampstead, 189 ---- John de Cella, 188 ---- John de Hertford, 123, 189 ---- John de Marinis, 189 ---- John de la Moote, 64, 145, 198 ---- John Wheathampsted, 146, 147, 167, 190, 193, 196, 225 ---- Leofstan, 186 ---- Michael de Mentmore, 189 ---- Paul de Caen, 187, 191 ---- Ralph, 119 ---- Ramryge, 193 ---- Robert de Gorham, 197 ---- Roger de Norton, 63, 157, 189 ---- Symon, 37, 188 ---- Thomas de la Mare, 91, 179, 189 ---- Ulsinus, 181, 182 ---- Warren de Cambridge, 179, 184, 188 ---- William de Trumpyntone, 188 ---- Wm. Wallingford, 190 Adane (brass), 135 Adrian IV. , 41, 45, 193 Aguillon family, 226 Alan the Red, 85 Alban, a rector (brass), 103 ---- St. , 31, 37, 59, 177, 186, 188, 193 Albyn (brass), 114 Aldenham, Lord, 49 Alford, Lady M. , 99, 154 Alfred the Great, 31, 117, 118 Altham, Helen, 159 ---- Sir J. , 159 Alwin the Thane, 48 Amphibalus, St. , 37, 166, 177, 188, 193 Anestie, Rich. De, 51 Anne of Bohemia, 136 ---- Mortimer, 137 Anorbul, Wm. (brass), 107 {Annabull in text} Anthony, W. , 81 Antoninus (quoted), 84, 94, 117, 177 Aram, Eugene, 127, 201 Arbuthnot, C. G. , 94 Archer, Robt. , 85 Argenthem, R. De, 60 Argenton, Rich. , 233 Arnald the "Leveller, " 120 Ascham, Roger, 110 Asser, 117 Athelstan, 51 Atkins, Sir E. , 47 Axtil, Henry, 157 Aylmer, Bishop, 103 ---- Judith, 103 B Babthorpe, Ralph, 182 Bache, Simon (brass), 141 Bacon, Francis, 40, 161, 183, 184 Bacon, Sir Nich. , 184 Baesh family, 175, 203, 204 Baker, H. W. Clinton-, 69 ---- W. R. , 68 Baldwyn family (brass), 219 Barclay, E. E. , 78 Bardolf, Sir E. (brass), 221 Barrington family, 141, 221 Bartolommeo, 160 Basset, Alan, 213 ---- Wm. , 174 Baugiard, Ralph, 130 Baxter, Rich. , 41, 135, 199, 209 Beaufort, Edmund, 196 Becket, Thomas, 76 Bede (quoted), 117, 178, 186, 193 Beel family (brass), 127 Beldam, J. , F. S. A. , 173 Bell, John (brass), 166 Bellenden family, 224 "Belted Will Howard, " 63 Benham, Canon, quoted, 50 Benson, Mgr. R. H. , 43 Benstede, Sir J. , 71 Beresford family, 150 Bernard de Baliol, 126, 163 Bertulf, King, 71 Bessemer, Sir H. , 41 Bickerdy, Marmaduke, 46 Binning, Lord, 63 Bishop, Mr. , 31 Blomfield, Sir A. W. , 49, 55, 93, 105, 168, 205 Blount family, 170, 171 ---- Sir H. , 145 Boadicea, 31, 212 Bodley, Mr. G. F. , 85, 209 Bokeland, Nich. De, 80 Boleyn, Anne, 58 Bonham, Miss, 59 Bonner, Bishop, 41, 179 Borrell, Sir J. (brass), 80 Bostock, Hugh, 147, (brass) 225 ---- Margaret (brass), 225 Boswell, James, 40, 222 Boteler family, 57, (brass) 81, 150, 221 Bouchier, Sir T. , 139 Bowlby, A. S. , 100 Bradby, Canon, 106 Brakespear, Nich. , 41, 45, 193 {Breakspeare in text} Bramfield family (brass), 87 Braybroke, Bishop, 103 Bridget, Countess, 219 Bridgewater family (see Egerton) Brockett family, 113, 225 Browne, Dean J. , 121 Buckingham, Duke of, 195 Bucknall family, 159 Bunsen, Baron, 209 Bunyan, John, 40, 88, 127, 163 Burghley, Lord, 109, 110, 111, 215 Burgo, Elizabeth de, 82 Burgundy, Duke of, 66 Burnet, Bishop, 63 Butterfield, W. , 64 C Cæsar family, 71 Calvert family, 121 Canon, Geo. , 231 Capell family, 42, 104, 105, 218, 220, 221 Carlo Dolce, 160 Caroline, Queen, 156 Carter family (brass), 138 Cary family (brasses), 49, 130, 132, 169 Cassivelaunus, 34 {Cassivellaunus in text} Catherine of Arragon, 148 ---- Braganza, 184 Cavan, Earl, 42, 226 Cecil, Sir Robt. , 42, 109, 110, 113, 215 ---- Thomas, 111 Chamberlain, Sir W. , 196 Chamber, Father (brass), 172 Chantrey (sculptor), 81 Chapman, Geo. , 40, 127 Chapple, John, 192 Charlemagne, 186 Charles I. , 32, 46, 111, 119, 173, 197, 216 ---- II. , 32, 105, 176, 210, 216, 220 Chaucer, 39 Chauncy family, 100 ---- Sir H, (quoted), 31, 46, 52, 54, 58, 63, 66, 74, 81, 84, 87, 91, 96, 100, 115, 132, 137, 150, 157, 174, 175, 182, 200, 207, 218 Chester family, 61 ---- Robt. , 173 Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, 199 Citroen, David, 94 Clarendon, Earl of, 43, 143 Clarkson (charity), 60 ---- Thomas, 208 Cleve, Rev. John (brass), 230 Clifford, Lord John, 196 Clinton family, 61 Clutterbuck, Robt. (quoted), 31, 180 Clyfford, Eliza. (brass), 56 ---- Sir Robt. (brass), 56 Cobb, Rev. J. W. , 31 Cock, Sir H. , 80 ---- (Cok) family (brasses), 231 Cogdell, T. (brass), 46 Coke, Mildred, 111 Conan, Duke of Brittany, 153 Coningsby, Sir R. , 151 Cooch, 60 Cooper, Anthony (brass), 219 ---- Sir A. Paston, 115 ---- Sir A. Paston Paston, 116 Cottenham, Lord, 209 Cotton, Dr. , 40, 180, 182 ---- Sir J. , 154 Courtenay, Henry, 94 Covert, Sir H. (brass), 150 Cowper, Ann, 72 ---- family, 42, 121, 143, 161 ---- William, 40, 71, 72, 73, 148, 180, 182 Cressye, W. And G. (brasses), 107 Cromwell, Oliver, 32, 120 ---- Richard, 86 Crossman, Mr. Alan F. , 21 Crouchback, Edmund, 53 Crowch family, 142 Cudworth, 41 Curll, William, 113 Cussans, J. E. , 31, 130 Cutts, Sir John, 201 D Dacre family, 136 Dacres, Robert, 85 David of Scotland, 119 Day family (brass), 169 De Furneaux family, 97, 205 Delawood, W. (brass), 130 Denny, Lady M. (brass), 75 De Ros family, 93 De Toni family, 93 Desborough, Lord, 159 Devereux, Robt. , 184 Dickens, Chas. , 40, 140 Dickson, Henry (brass), 219 "Dick Turpin, " 217 Dion Cassius (quoted), 31 Dixon, Nich. (brass), 85 Docwra family, 145, 162 Doddridge, Rev. P. , 41 Dodyngton family (brasses), 177 Dowman family (brass), 155 Duckett, Sir G. , 75 Dugdale, quoted, 52, 71, 207 Dyer, Sir W. (brass), 154 E Ebury, Lord, 42, 169 Edelwine the Black, 45, 166 {Egelwine in text} Edgar, King, 103, 105, 108 Edmund de Langley, 136, 137 ---- of Hadham, 103 ---- St. , 193 Edward I. , 180, 214 ---- II. , 136, 210 ---- III. , 72, 82, 85, 103 ---- IV. , 65, 183 ---- VI. , 56, 108, 110, 154, 168, 202, 232 ---- Black Prince, 72 ---- the Elder, 118 Egerton family, 42, 47, 53, 98, 154 Egfrith, 198 Eleanor, Queen, 180, 214 Eliot, John, 227 Elizabeth, Queen, 32, 56, 75, 95, 108, 109, 111, 114, 119, 131, 132, 140, 184, 197, 202, 215 Ellis, Thos. And Grace, 121 Elwes family, 208 Entwysel, Sir B. , 182 Eric (Baron Reay), 70 Essex, Earls of (see Capell) Ethelbert, 186 Etheldred, 223 Etheric, Bishop, 207 Eustace de Mere, 172 ---- Earl of Boulogne, 130 Evans, Sir John, K. C. B. , 33, 35, 138, 153, 155 Evelyn, John, 26 F Fanshawe, Sir Rich. , 63, 216 Feilde family, 204 Field, Dr. Nat. , 41 Fitzroy, James, 169 Flambard, Simon, 103 Flaunden, Thos. , 96 Fleetwood, Bishop, 41 Floyer (Flyer?) family, 78 Forester family, 89 Forster, John, 40, 140 Fortescue, Sir Rich. , 196 Fouke, Sir B. , 95 Fountaine, Andrew, 151 Fox, George, 41, 127 Freeman, Dr. , 58 Frewell (Knight), 153 Frowyk family (brasses), 152 G Garrard, A. G. B. Cherry-, 226 ---- Sir J. And Elizabeth, 225 Gaveston, Piers, 41, 136 Geoffrey, Johannes (brass), 198 ---- Treasurer, 46 George II. , 219 ---- III. , 209 Gernon, Robt. , 144 Gerrard de Furnival, 152 Giacomo Palma, 230 Giant of Weston, 102, 224 Gibbons, Grinling, 220 Gibbs, Mr. A. E. , F. L. S. (quoted), 31, 185 Gildas, 178, 186 Giles-Puller, G. B. , 124 Glamis, Lord, 43 {Not found in text} Glascocke, Hon. Sir W. , 138 Godwin, Harold, 58, 165 Godwin, Leofwin, 164 ---- William, 41, 217 Goisfride de Bech, 145 Goldon, Rich. (brass), 229 Gore family, 100, 104, 210 Gosselin, Miss, 227 Gough the Antiquary, 230 Goulston family, 231 Gray, James (brass), 132 Grimston family, 184, 206 Grimthorpe, Lord, 43, 179, 181, 183, 185, 191 Grose, F. (quoted), 23, 84, 194 Gyll, Geo. (brass), 231 H Haggard, Mr. H. Rider, 54 Hall, Robert, 135 Halsey family, 98 Hamilton, Hon. Geo. , 101 ---- Jane, 101 Hampden, Viscount, 42, 136 Hanbury, C. A. , 63 Hancock, Col. M. , 229 Harcourt family, 48 Hardwicke, Earl, 145 Hardwin de Scalers, 125, 231 Harrington, Sir W. , 121 Harrison, Sir John, 120 Harvey, Sir Garrett, 104 {Garratt in text} Hawksmoor, Nich. , 201 Helen, St. , 59 Helle, Roger, 136 Henry II. , 63, 72 ---- III. , 83, 85, 136, 168 ---- IV. , 91, 119 ---- V. , 91, 119, 141, 200 ---- VI. , 56, 119, 138, 141, 175, 195, 196 ---- VII. , 110, 217 ---- VIII. , 58, 80, 85, 108, 132, 148, 201, 202, 232 ---- of Huntingdon, 117 Herkomer, Prof. , 106 "Hermit of Herts, " 205 Hert, James (brass), 127 Heydon family, 159 Heyworth, John and Joan, 225 Hide family, 48 ---- Leonard, 131 Hippolits, St. , 134 Hogarth, 143 Holes, Justice (brass), 219 Hollinshed (quoted), 196 {Hollinshead in text} Hoore family (brass), 92 Hopkinson, Mr. J. , F. L. S. , 12 Horsley, Bishop, 41 Horwode, Ralph (brass), 46 Hotoft, John (brass), 141 Howard of Escrick, 176 Howe, Lord, 201 Howton family (brass), 230 Hugh of Lincoln, 193 Hughes family (brasses), 134 Humberstone family (brasses), 213 Humphrey, Duke of Gloster, 190 {Gloucester in text} ---- Earl, 195 Hutchinson, 48 I Incent, Dr. John, 71 Isabel of Castile, 136, 137 Isabella of France, 119 ---- (2nd wife, Rich. II. ), 120 J Jack o' Legs, 102, 224 James I. , 41, 42, 109, 111, 119, 131, 173, 197, 215 ---- II. , 32, 176 Janeway, James, 135 ---- John, 135 Janssens, C. , 143, 161, 220 Jennings, Admiral, 61 ---- family, 199 Jerrold, Douglas, 140 Joan of Navarre, 91, 119 Jocelin family, 200 Jocelyn, Sir R. , 56 John, 125 ---- "Gilpin, " 217 ---- of France, 119 ---- of Gaunt, 118 Johnson, Dr. , 40, 222 Jones, Inigo, 140 Joyce, Cornet, 32 Julian the Apostate, 36 K Katharine Tudor, 103, 119, 120 {Katherine in text} Kemp, Bishop, 103 Ken, Bishop, 41, 73 Kent family (brass), 56 Kesteven, W. (brass), 150 Kit Cat Club, 69 Kneller, 69, 111, 143, 161, 221 Knighton, Sir G. , 68 Knolles family (brass), 150 Kybeworth, Thos. , 134 {Bybsworth in text} L Lacon, Edward and Joanna, 229 Lamb, Chas. , 28, 40, 49, 101, 146, 147, 227 ---- Mary, 146 ---- Sir M. , 114 Lambard (brass), 124 Langley, W. (brass), 81 Lanvalei family, 213 Lawes, Sir J. B. , 108 Lee family, 209 ---- Nathaniel, 40 ---- Sir Rich. , 185 ---- ---- W. De la, 46 Lely, 111, 143, 220, 221 Leoni (architect), 169 Leukenor (?), Thos. , 224 Leventhorpe family (brasses), 200 Lewin, Earl, 116 Lightfoot (Hebraist), 41 ---- J. (brass), 152 Limesy, Ralph, 119, 162 Long, Alderman (brass), 49 Louis XI. , 66 ---- (Dauphin), 118 ---- XVIII. , 173 Louthe family (brasses), 121, 207 Loyd, W. J. , 142 Lucas, James, 205 Luini, 54 Lushington family, 55 Lyde, Sir L. , 57 Lytton, Bulwer, 40, 140 ---- family, 139, 140, 141, 144 ---- Lord, 42 M Macaulay, Lord, 40, 55, 171 Magnaville, G. De, 100, 149 ---- Sir Hugh de, 149 "Maid of the Mill, " 165 Makery, Thos. , 147 Manning, Cardinal, 209 Margaret of Anjou, 119, 138, 196 ---- Countess, 217 Marjoribanks, Edward, 83 Martin, Mr. T. H. , 12 Mary (March. Salisbury), 112 ---- Tudor, 56, 108, 110, 137, 202 Mattok (brasses), 127 Matthew of Westminster (quoted) 76 ---- Paris (quoted), 40, 158, 166, 179, 186, 192 Maundeville, Sir J. , 40 Maurice, Bishop, 74, 228 Mawley, Edward, 12 May, Hugh, 220 Mayne family (brasses), 75 Meetkerke, Sir A. , 174 Melbourne, Lord, 42, 114 Miles, General, 85 Miller, Geo. (brass), 219 "Moll Davis, " 221 Monk, General, 216 Monmouth (see Fitzroy) Montacute, 67 ---- family, 201 More, Sir Thos. , 40, 151 Moreton, Earl, 116 Morison family, 219, 220 Morris, Dr. J. , 93 Moss, James (brass), 219 Murillo, 94 Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 10, 50 {Myddelton in text} N Needham family, 232 Nevil, Robt. And Elizabeth, 46 Nevill, Archbishop, 169 ---- Sir Robt. , 147 ---- Thos. , 56 Neville, Sir Thos. , 231 Newce family (brasses), 104 Newmarch, Isabel, 120 Newport, Edward, 78 ---- Robt. (brass), 97 Nicholson, Dr. J. , 31, 192 Nodes family (brasses), 202 Nollekens (sculptor), 158, 208 Norden, J. (quoted), 11, 102, 116, 117, 134 O Odo, Bishop, 165 Offa of Mercia, 116, 122, 158, 168, 178, 186 Ogard, Andrew, 175 Oldhall, Sir J. , 132 Oudeby, John (brass), 95 Overbury (brass), 144 Owen, John, 65 ---- Tudor, 103 P Paine (architect), 114 Palmerston, Lord, 42 Parker, Dr. , 12 ---- family (brass), 166 Parr family, 58 Pecok, John and "Maud" (brass), 183 ---- Rich. (brass), 167 Peletot, Sir P. (brass), 221 Pemberton, Roger (brass), 181 Penn, William, 41, 87, 168 Penrice, Sir H. , 158 Pepys, Sir Lucas, 209 ---- Samuel, 26, 65, 164, 217 Percy, Henry, 195 Peri, 162 Perient, J. (brass), 91 ---- J. , junr. (brass), 92 Peter de Valoignes, 118, 125 ---- the Great, 111 ---- "Wild Boy, " 156 Piers Gaveston, 41, 136 "Piers Shonkes, " 78 Pietro Cavalini, 214 Piozzi, Mrs. , 158 Pitman, Dr. , 148 Pitt, William, 184 Plowden, W. C. M. , 68 Plumbe, M. (brass), 231 Plumer, Col. J. , 101 ---- family, 100 ---- William, 101 Pope (quoted), 171 ---- Sir T. , 109 Portland, Earl, 216 Poyidres, R. (brass), 134 {Poydres in text} Poynard family (brass), 61 Prescott, Sir G. W. , 215 Prest, Johannes, 120 Priestley, Wm. , 94 {Priestly in text} Prior, Matt. (quoted), 128 Pryor, A. Reginald, 15 ---- Charity, 60 Pulter family, 89, (brasses) 127 Pygott, T. (brass), 207 Pyke, W. (brass), 85 Pym family, 166 Pyrry family (brasses), 216 R Radcliffe, F. A. D. , 125 Randolph, Thos. , 103 Ranelagh, Lady, 111, 120 Ransom, W. , 25 Raphael, 160 Raven, J. (brass), 72 Ravenscroft family, 65 Rawdon, Sir M. , 129 Raymond, Lord Justice, 46 Read(e) family, 113 Reay, Martha, 93 Reed, Isaac, 50 Rembrandt, 161 Revett (architect), 57 Reynes, Elizabeth, 94 Reynolds, Sir J. , 111, 112, 220 Rhodes, Cecil, 74 Richard II. , 91, 136, 137, 183 ---- Duke of York, 195 ---- Earl of Cambridge, 138 Richmond, Countess, 217 Ridley, Bishop, 41, 132, 168 Robert, W. (brass), 92 ---- de Olgi, 224 ---- ---- Sigillo, 46 ---- Earl of Ewe, 210 Robins (brass), 183 Robinson, Mrs. , 59 Roe, 60 Roesia, Dame, 172 Roger of Wendover, 37 ---- the Monk, 148, 156 Romanelli (sculptor), 142 "Rosamund Gray, " 227 Rothschild family, 42, 210 Roubeliac (sculptor), 121 Rous, T. B. , 170 Rubens, 54, 126, 221 Rumbold, "Hannibal, " 175, 176 Russell family, 86, 176, 219 Ryder, H. C. D. , 133 Rysbrack (sculptor), 61, 208 S Sabine, Sir J. , 207 Sadleir family, 202 ---- Sir Ralph, 42, 202, 203 Salisbury family, 42, 94, 108, 110, 111, 113 Salmon, Nat. , 31, 224, 228 Salusbury family, 158 Salvator Rosa, 160 Samwell family (brass), 158 Sandwich, Earl of, 93 Saraye, W. (brass), 204 Saunders, James, 20, 21 ---- Thos. , 95 Saxony, Duke of, 122 Say, Sir W. , 79 Sayer, John, 72, 73 Scales family, 172 Scott, John, 40, 50 ---- Sir Gilbert, 82, 96, 143, 180, 182, 191, 192 ---- Sir W. , 77 Seabrooke family, 107 Seddon, J. P. , 59 Selina, Countess, 86, 227 Sexi the Dane, 123 Shaw, Mr. Norman, 76 Sherlock, Bishop, 41 Shrimpton, Robt. , 194 Sidney, Algernon, 176 Sigar the Hermit, 156 Skelton, John, 40 Smith, Abel, 222 Smith-Bosanquet, Major G. R. B. , 80 ---- W. G. , 33, 155 Somer (brass), 133 Somers, Lord, 41, 150, 151 Southwell, Sir Robt. , 231 Spencer, Sir R. , 158 Sperehawke, J. (brass), 127 Spycere, Eliz. , 74 Stables, Lt. -Col. , 130 Stapleford, H. And D. , 197 Stephen, 210 Stern, Mrs. , 63 Stigand, Archbishop, 56 St. Legier family, 158 Stone, Nich. , 219 Stow, John (quoted), 196 Strathmore, Lord, 197 Stratton, John, 73 Strong, Edward, 182 Stuart, Lady A. , 63 Stukeley, Dr. , 228 Styles, B. H. , 169, 170 Sudley, Lord, 195 T Taberam, W. (brass), 172 Tacitus (quoted), 31, 213 Tankerville, G. , 179 Taverner family, 121 Thomson, James, 63 Thornbury family, 153 ---- Sir John, 83, 153 Thornhill, Sir James, 170 Thrale, Mrs. , 158 Thurtell, 93 Tillotson, Archbishop, 41 Tinworth, 70 Titian, 54 Titus, Silas, 83 Tonson, 69 {Not found in text} Tooke family, 94 ---- Wm. (brass), 94 Torrington, Margaret, 72 ---- Rich. , 72 Townsend, Chas. , 120 Tremouille, Charlotte, 221 Trigg, Henry, 205 Turenne, 161 Tykering, Rich. , 64 Tymms (quoted), 24 U Usher, Archbishop, 104 V Valpy family, 228 Vandyck, 111, 143 Van Somer, 111, 143, 161 Verulam, Earl, 43 Vere, Sir R. , 196 Veronese, 160 Villiers family, 143, 161, 184 Vynter, John (brass), 87 W Walchelin, Bishop, 89 Walpole, Horace, 219 Walton, Izaak, 40, 128 Ward, Dr. Seth, 55, 81 ---- Mrs. H. , 47 Waren, Rich. (brass), 105 Warham, Bishop, 41 Warner, W. , 50 Warwick, "Kingmaker, " 66, 67, 195, 196 Watson, H. C. , 15 Watts, Isaac, 41 Weare, William, 93 Wentworth, Thos. , 184 Whitefield, Geo. , 127 Whithred, King, 73 Whittingham, Sir R. , 48 Wilkie, 111 Willet, Dr. A. (brass), 61 William I. , 24, 31, 74, 85, 102, 116, 118, 125, 165, 210, 224, 231 ---- III. , 111 ---- de Cantilupe, 125 ---- Earl of Ewe, 102, 125 ---- Earl of Salisbury, 119 ---- of Malmesbury, 110, 117, 186 Willis, Thos. , 119 Wilshere family, 223 Wincelfled, 45, 166 Wodehouse, R. (brass), 129 Wolsey, Cardinal, 41, 86, 169, 232 Wolvey, Thos. (brass), 183 Wortham, Hale, 12 Wren, Sir C, 210 Wright, John (brass), 87 Wyatt (architect), 53, 98, 200, 220 Wykins, John, 86 Wyndham, Mrs. E. (brass), 182 Wynne, 60 Wyrley, Thos. (brass), 143 Y Yarrell, Wm. , 69 Young, Edward, 40, 222 ---- Robert, 148 Z Zucchero, 110, 112, 143 PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BYJARROLD AND SONS, LTD. , NORWICH =THE LITTLE GUIDES= PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS DELIGHTFUL GIFT BOOKS Pott 8vo, =4s. = net to =7s. 6d. = net THE 59 VOLUMES IN THE SERIES ARE:-- Bedfordshire and HuntingdonshireBerkshireBrittanyBuckinghamshireCambridge and CollegesCambridgeshireChannel IslandsCheshireCornwallCumberland and WestmorelandDerbyshireDevonDorsetDurhamEnglish LakesEssexGloucestershireHampshireHerefordshireHertfordshireIsle of WightKentKerryLancashireLeicestershire and RutlandLincolnshireLondonMalvern CountryMiddlesexMonmouthshireNorfolkNormandyNorthamptonshireNorthumberlandNorth WalesNottinghamshireOxford and CollegesOxfordshireRomeSt Paul's CathedralShakespeare's CountryShropshireSicilySnowdoniaSomersetSouth WalesStaffordshireSuffolkSurreySussexTempleWarwickshireWestminster AbbeyWiltshireWorcestershireYorkshire East RidingYorkshire North RidingYorkshire West RidingYork (_in preparation_) METHUEN & CO. 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With 40 Illustrations fromPhotographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition, Revised. _ 4s. Net. =Rome. = By C. G. ELLABY. With 38 Illustrations by B. C. Boulterand from Photographs, and a Map. 4s. Net. =Sicily. = By F. HAMILTON JACKSON. With 34 Illustrations by theAuthor and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition. _ 4s. Net. METHUEN & CO. LTD, 36 ESSEX ST. , LONDON, W. C. 2 {Transcriber's notes [a] "protusion" changed to "protrusion" [b] "protusion" changed to "protrusion" [c] "filixfoemina" changed to "filixfæmina" [d] "Guillemot" changed to "guillemot"; "Locustella noevia" changed to "Locustella nævia" [e] "Icene" changed to "Iceni" [f] "Wincelfied" changed to "Wincelfled" [g] "Aldeberie" unclear in original but checked with other sources [h] "in" changed to "is" [i] "Wymondly" changed to "Wymondley" [j] "From" changed to "from" [k] "L. &S. W. R. " changed to "L. &N. W. R. " [l] "Julian's" changed to "Julians" [m] "projectin gentrance" changed to "projecting entrance" [n] "Pishobury" changed to "Pishiobury" [o] "Blakemoor" changed to "Blakesmoor" The following place names have inconsistent spellings:Abbot's Langley, Abbots LangleyGubblecote, GubblecotLuffenhall, Lufen HallPiccott's End, Piccotts End(St. ) Ippollitts, Ippollit's, Ippollits Some of the index entries do not correspond exactly to the body of thetext. The differences are as follows: Index Text Anorbul AnnabullBrakespear BreakspeareCassivelaunus CassivellaunusEdelwine EgelwineHollinshed HollinsheadGlamis Not found in textHumphrey, Duke of Gloster GloucesterHarvey, Sir Garrett GarrattKatharine Tudor KatherineKybeworth BybsworthMyddleton, Sir Hugh MyddeltonPoyidres PoydresPriestley PriestlyTonson Not found in text }