THE FASCINATION OF LONDON

HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE

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_IN THIS SERIES. _

Cloth, price 1s. 6d. Net; leather, price 2s. Net, each. 

THE STRAND DISTRICT. 

By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. 

WESTMINSTER. 

By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. 

HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. 

CHELSEA. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. 

KENSINGTON. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. 

HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. 

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[Illustration: CHURCH ROW, HAMPSTEAD. ]

The Fascination of London

HAMPSTEADANDMARYLEBONE

BYG. E. MITTON

EDITED BYSIR WALTER BESANT

LONDONADAM & CHARLES BLACK1902

_Published August, 1902_

_Reprinted February, 1903_

PREFATORY NOTE

A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that shouldpreserve her history, her historical and literary associations, hermighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all thatLondoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from thepast--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when hedied. 

As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anythingelse I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attemptedbefore. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and Ifind something fresh in it every day. "

He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace, but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. Hedied when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumeson the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end ofthe eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great citypractically unique, and exceptionally interesting, compiled by one whohad the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how tomake the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which SirWalter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting, "will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. And C. Black, who had undertakenthe publication of the Survey. 

Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular andsystematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that thehistory of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a veryoriginal feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took thekeenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant itsissue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it isproposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts andpublish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the localinhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest andthe history of London lie in these street associations. For this purposeChelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected forpublication first, and have been revised and brought up to date. 

The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great, for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undyingcharm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past historywith the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, herhistory is written for those who can read it, and the object of theseries is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain. The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man wholoved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him, and it was because of these associations that it did so. These linksbetween past and present in themselves largely constitute TheFascination of London. 

G. E. M. 

CONTENTS

 PAGE

PREFATORY NOTE vii

HAMPSTEAD 1

MARYLEBONE 56

INDEX 106

_Map of Hampstead facing page 1. _

_Map of Marylebone facing page 104. _

[Illustration: HAMPSTEAD DISTRICT. 

Published by A. & C. Black, London. 

By permission of the Hampstead Corporation. ]

HAMPSTEAD

The name of this borough is clearly derived from "ham, " or "hame, " ahome; and "steede, " a place, and has consequently the same meaning ashomestead. Park, in a note in his book on Hampstead, says that the "p"is a modern interpolation, scarcely found before the seventeenthcentury, and not in general use until the eighteenth. 

HISTORY

Lysons says that the Manor of Hampstead was given in 986 A. D. By KingEthelred to the church at Westminster, and that this gift was confirmedby Edward the Confessor; but there is an earlier charter of King Edgarof uncertain date, probably between 963 and 978. It granted the land atHamstede to one Mangoda, and the limits of the grant are thus stated:"From Sandgate along the road to Foxhanger; from the Hanger west toWatling Street north along the street to the Cucking Pool; from theCucking Pool east to Sandgate. "

Professor Hales, who thinks, whether genuine or not, this charter iscertainly of value, interprets Sandgate as North End, Foxhanger asHaverstock Hill, Watling Street as Edgeware Road, and the Cucking Poolhe concludes was in the marshy ground at the north-west corner of theparish. 

This earlier charter is only interesting because it carries the historyone point further back; the gift to the monks by King Ethelred was inits consequences far more important. The Bishop of Westminster, who heldthe land after the dissolution of the monastery, surrendered it to theKing in 1550, by whom it was given to Sir Thomas Wroth. It remained inthe Wroth family until 1620, when it was acquired by Sir Baptist Hickes, afterwards Viscount Campden. Hickes' daughter and coheir married LordNoel, ancestor of the Earls of Gainsborough, and it was held by theGainsboroughs until 1707. In that year it was bought by Sir WilliamLanghorne, who left it to his nephew. It then went to a Mrs. MargaretMaryon, later to Mrs. Weller, and about 1780 to Sir Thomas SpencerWilson, in right of his wife. Her son, Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, succeeded her, and in this line it has remained since 1818. 

Besides the Manor of Hampstead there is included in the borough theancient Manor of Belsize, or Belses. Sir Roger de Brabazon in 1317 gavean estate to Westminster Abbey to found a chantry for himself, Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and Blanche his wife. After many changes it wasoccupied by Lord Wotton, who had been created a Baron by Charles II. Hishalf-brother, Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, succeeded him, and thefamily held the Belsize estate until 1807. The house was afterwardsturned into a popular place of amusement. 

Hampstead as a whole has grown very rapidly. In a map of the beginningof the nineteenth century there are comparatively few houses; thesenestle in the shape of a spear-head and haft about the High Street. AtWest End and Fortune Green are a few more, a few straggle up thesouthern end of the Kilburn Road, and Rosslyn House and Belsize Houseare detached, out in the open country. 

Seymour, writing in 1735, gives a quaint description of Hampstead asfollows: "This Village . .. Is much more frequented by good company thancan well be expected considering its vicinity to London, but such carehas been taken to discourage the meaner sort from making it a place ofresidence that it is now become, after Scarborough and Bath andTunbridge, one of the Politest Public Places in England, and to add tothe Entertainment of the Company there is, besides the long room inwhich the Company meet publicly on a Monday evening to play at cards, etc. , a new Dancing Room built this year. "

Hampstead itself, now a town of 80, 000 people, is almost entirelymodern; the old village has been gradually destroyed until there is nextto nothing left. But the Heath remains, the only wild piece of groundwithin easy reach of the Londoner. It remains to be seen whether theauthorities will continue to observe the difference between a park and aheath. 

No suburb of London can point to so many distinguished residents asthis, the most favoured and the most favourite. Among them may bementioned Sir Henry Vane, Dr. Butler (author of the "Analogy"), LordAlvanley, Lord Chatham, Lord Erskine, Crabbe, Dr. Johnson, JoannaBaillie, Mrs. Barbauld, Constable, Romney, Sir James Mackintosh, Steele, Gay, Arbuthnot, Akenside, Thomas Day, Leigh Hunt, Keats, William Blake, John Linnell, Wilkie, Stanfield, Du Maurier, and many others. 

Directly you get within the boundaries of Hampstead you are aware thatthe borough has an atmosphere of its own--an atmosphere in two senses, for the great height of part of the borough and its distance from Londoncombine to give it as wholesome and pure an air as may be found in anyplace in England, and an atmosphere in the metaphorical sense--apeculiar feeling of brightness and lightness which proclaims a favouredsuburb. Hampstead has always been celebrated for its trees, and in spiteof the great annual increase in the number of its houses these have notbeen wiped out of existence. Nearly every house possesses one or more, and some are very fine specimens. The long sinuous backbone of theborough, beginning as Haverstock Hill, continuing as Rosslyn Hill, andrunning through High Street and Heath Street to the Heath, istree-shaded almost all its length. The streets on either side showvistas of irregular red brick, softened and toned down by the greeneryof trees; every road is an avenue. The main artery, indicated above, isall uphill, not all equally steep, but collar-work throughout itslength; at the top it bifurcates, and the winding of Heath Streetreminds one of a Continental town. The steep little streets or alleysrunning down into it are furnished with steps like the Edinburgh wynds. The way is long, but the toil is forgotten at the summit in the splendidview from the flagstaff. Here the rolling blue outlines of distant hillsare emphasized by the beautiful foreground of the West Heath. There isnone of what painters call the "middle distance"; everything is near orfar, and the near is extraordinarily beautiful, especially if it be seenin springtime when the spray of blossom is like the spray of deep waterbreaking upon rocks, and the gorse twinkles like the twinkling ofripples in the golden sunlight. The immediate foreground is bare andworn, but a little further away the miniature heights and hollows, thescrubby bush and little winding paths, add that mystery which so greatlyincreases delight. The pond by the Flagstaff is frequently very gay;there are carriages and horses, children with flotillas of white-sailedcraft, and horses splashing knee-deep from end to end of the pond, anadvantage much appreciated in the hot and thirsty summer. Away to theeast stretches of rolling green form a joyous playground for all atholiday times, but are bare and arid compared with the West Heath. 

Below North End on West Heath this character is maintained, and thereare few sights in England more beautiful than the richly clothed brokenground stretching away from the slopes below Jack Straw's Castle whenthe sunlight catches the leaves of the poplars and beeches, making themshine with shimmery silver light. On all sides are magnificent views ofdistant horizons. 

The Heath forms one of the greatest attractions of Hampstead, and thatthe inhabitants are fully alive to its beauty and importance is shown bytheir gallant and successful efforts to preserve it intact, when, fromtime to time, it has been threatened. Neither the proposed curtailmentsby the Lord of the Manor nor the park-like "improvements" of the LondonCounty Council have been permitted. It is still a wide space ofundulating ground, outlined by masses of foliage rising to the heightsof Highgate, and is an untold boon to the dwellers in the City, whothrong its slopes on Bank Holidays. In 1866 a contest arose between theLord of the Manor, Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, and the inhabitants ofHampstead as to the preservation of the Heath. Up to that date fortwenty years a guerilla warfare had been going on in dispute of SirMaryon Wilson's right to build upon the Heath, and when he began tobuild a house close to the Flagstaff pond the matter came to an issue. Asubscription list was opened called the Hampstead Heath Protection Fund, and the matter was taken into court. Before the case was ended SirThomas died, and was succeeded by his brother Sir John, who was open toa compromise. Under an Act of Parliament the Metropolitan Board of Worksacquired the Heath for £55, 045. The ground thus acquired comprised 220acres. In 1889-90 Parliament Hill Fields and the Brickfields werepurchased for £302, 000, with money partly raised by the local Vestries, partly by public subscription, and partly by Metropolitan taxation. Theland thus bought from Lord Mansfield and Sir Spencer Wilson comprised261 acres, and was dedicated to the public as an open space for ever. 

The part of the Heath known as East Heath consists of rolling grassyslopes outlined with clumps of trees and intersected by roads andfootpaths. The great road known as Spaniards, which cuts across asstraight as an arrow, gives the impression of having been banked up andlevelled at some previous date, but this appearance is due to theexcavations for sand and gravel at its sides which took place while theground was still under the rule of the lord of the manor. 

The Heath has suffered from highwaymen in common with most lonely spotsin the vicinity of the Metropolis. One, Jackson, in 1673, was hungbehind Jack Straw's Castle for highway murder, but no other verynotorious crimes are attached to this spot as there are to Hounslow orBlackheath. 

The Heath is not altogether destitute of houses; of those detached, several have had the origin of what Baines terms "Squatters' right, " andhave established their title by process of time. There are also severalhamlets: the Vale of Health, the houses about Jack Straw's Castle, NorthEnd, and the group near the Spaniards. 

The curious little cluster of buildings called the Vale of Health, situated in a basin near to one of the Hampstead ponds, has alwaysattracted considerable attention. Here Leigh Hunt came to live in 1816;his house was on the site of the Vale of Health Hotel. Thornbury quotesan old inhabitant, who writes of Leigh Hunt's cottage as having a"pretty balcony environed with creepers, and a tall arbor vitĉ whichalmost overtops the roof. " There are very few even tolerably old housesleft here; the little streets are of the modern villa order, and thegreat square tavern, with its tea-gardens and merry-go-rounds, itsshooting-galleries and penny-in-the-slot machines, has vulgarized theplace. Prince Esterhazy is said to have taken a house in the Vale ofHealth in 1840; this has been "long since pulled down. " The place is nowdedicated to the sweeping tide of merry-makers which flows over it everyrecurring Bank Holiday. 

The charming spot called North End still remains rural in appearance:small cottages with red-tiled roofs and quaint inns survive side by sidewith the modern red-brick school-house. The Bull and Bush is said tohave been the country seat of Hogarth, and later, when it became atavern, to have been visited by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Garrick, Sterne, Foote, and other celebrities. The house is very picturesque: theprojecting wing northward is of rusticated woodwork; the leads of thebayed-windows are covered with flowers in summer. There are still theold-fashioned tea-gardens attached. 

There are many substantial and comfortable residences about North End, but the Hampstead boundary does not include them all. Wildwoods, or, asit used to be called, North End House, is the most important within theboundary. The original fabric of the house is two centuries old, but hasbeen altered and repaired largely. The spot is named Wildwood Corner inDomesday Book. Its chief historical interest lies in its occupation byWilliam Pitt, first Earl of Chatham, who shut himself up here from allcommunication with his fellow-Ministers in 1767; he was then a miserableinvalid, afflicted with a disorder which in modern times would have beentermed "nerves"; he refused to see anyone, even his own attendant, andhis food was passed to him through a panel of the door. However, heafterwards returned to public life. In Wildwood Terrace are the Home ofRest for the Aged Poor, and a Convalescent Cottage Home. Wilkie Collinswas born at North End. Besides this, the names of Linnell, portrait andlandscape painter, Coventry Patmore, Mrs. Craik, Eliza Meteyard, a minorauthor, and Sir Fowell Buxton, are more or less intimately associatedwith the little hamlet. 

A charming path leads over the broken ground from North End to theSpaniards. The most noticeable object as the pedestrian approaches thelatter is a grove of fine Scotch firs, which at one time formed anavenue to a substantial, unpretentious house on the north. A Mr. Turner, a tobacconist of Fleet Street, built the house and planted thetrees in 1734. The road past the house turns to the left or north, andis bounded on the east side by the wall of the Caenwood property. 

Following the road we come upon Erskine House, a stuccoed house withcovered porch, chiefly remarkable for the immense size of its upperwindows, which are out of all proportion to those of the ground-floor. These command a magnificent prospect, and light a room which, it issaid, was designed as a banqueting-hall in which to entertain GeorgeIII. The house was the residence of the great law lord, Thomas Erskine, and on that account alone is worthy of special mention. A tunnelconnecting it with Lord Mansfield's grounds formerly ran under the road. 

Below the house, standing at an angle to the Highgate Road, and lookingdown the hill, is the famous old inn called the Spaniards. Here, atleast, the modern builder has not been at work. From the quaint tiledroof to the irregular windows and white-washed brick walls, all issimple and charming. A little lean-to shed of rusticated woodwork formsa bar at the back. This tavern is actually outside the boundary ofHampstead, but it is so closely connected with the parish that it cannotbe overlooked. It is on the site of a lodge at the entrance to the parkor grounds of the Bishop of London. 

From Wroth we learn that about the middle of the eighteenth century orearlier one Staples laid out a curious pleasure-garden here, with quaintdesigns, which attracted much attention. It was the landlord of theSpaniards Inn who in the time of the Gordon Riots dexterously detainedthe rioters from proceeding to Caenwood House until the troops arrivedto protect it. The tea-gardens at the back still survive; in these wasthe old bowling-green. Close by was another pleasure-garden, NewGeorgia, but this is quite beyond the parish limits. 

Returning across the Heath, we come to Jack Straw's Castle, though thereis no evidence to show that the riotous ringleader of 1381 had ever anyconnection with the hostelry named after him, but it is quite possiblethat the Heath formed a rendezvous for the malcontents of his time. Inearly times an earthwork stood on the site, which gave rise to the name"castle. " The real Jack Straw's Castle was at Highgate. It is almostcertain that the Hampstead hostelry was originally a private house; thewood of the gallows on which one Jackson had been hanged behind thehouse, in 1673, for highway murder, was built into the wall. When theplace became an inn it was called Castle Inn, and the first mention ofJack Straw's Castle is in a book published in 1822 called "The Cabinetof Curiosities. " The present inn was built in the early part of theeighteenth century, and is a nice-looking stuccoed old house; throughthe entry to the yard we get a glimpse of red-tiled, rusticated woodenoutbuildings. On one side are the tea-gardens. Dickens often resortedhere, as is mentioned in Forster's "Life of Dickens, " and the inn isreferred to also by Washington Irving in "The Sketch-Book. "

There was a race-course behind the hotel on the Heath, but the raceshave been suppressed. In a paper contributed to Baines' book onHampstead a correspondent says: "The Castle Hotel is associated with themeetings of the Courts Leet, and in the old days during the MiddlesexParliamentary elections the house was a famous rendezvous for candidatesand voters. " A brick house two centuries old at the corner of SpaniardsRoad is Heath House. It was long occupied by the Hoare family, ofbanking fame, whose name has been intimately associated with Hampstead. Visitors of distinction have often been received here, and the names ofWordsworth, Coleridge, and Crabbe were among those of frequent guests. 

The Flagstaff marks a very high point on the Heath, 439 feet, which is, however, surpassed by Jack Straw's Castle at 443 feet. 

The Whitestone Pond has been enlarged, and is supplied by New Riverwater. From this site a view of surprising beauty is seen--broken groundcovered by bracken and gorse, bushes and trees, with the blue outlinesof the distant hills. 

South of the Whitestone Pond is the Hampstead water reservoir, and nearit beds of flowers, rhododendron bushes, etc. , are neatly laid out. Almost immediately opposite is a quiet, dark-coloured little brickhouse, with area steps descending in front and the entrance on thenorth. This (now a private residence) was once the Upper Flask Tavern, familiar to all the readers of Richardson, for here he makes the unhappyClarissa Harlowe fly in his famous novel. The Kit Kat Club used to meethere during the summer months, and many celebrities of Queen Anne'sreign, including Pope and Steele, are known to have patronized thetavern. George Steevens, the commentator on Shakespeare, who died in thebeginning of the present century, lived here, and spent much money onalterations and improvements. Anything less suggestive of a tavern thanthis cool, shady, retired spot cannot well be imagined. A very largered-brick house, modern, with fancy tiles, stands in its own groundsadjacent, overlooking Holford Road. But it is quite impossible toenumerate all the charming residences scattered about in this locality. 

East Heath Road skirts the edge of the Heath. In itself it containsnothing remarkable, but closely adjoining are one or two of thosecharming old red-brick mansions which make Hampstead what it is. Heathfield House, Squires Mount, and The Pryors are specimens of these. 

On the south side is Cannon Hall, an old Queen Anne mansion. Old cannon, which have doubtless some connection with the name, stand in the roadwaybefore it, and close by is Christ Church Vicarage, of the same type, with red-tiled roof. 

Christ Church Road is a long tree-shaded thoroughfare descending theslope of the hill; it was formerly called Green Man Lane, from thepublic-house of that name at the foot. 

The church stands at a great elevation, and has a high spire, whichforms a landmark far and wide. It was built by Sir Gilbert Scott, consecrated in 1852, and was the successor of the chapel in Well Walk, an account of which is given on p. 18. The church was enlarged in 1882. The streets hereabouts are set at all angles, and the result to astranger is a little perplexing. 

Hampstead Square is a square only in name; one or two delightful oldbrick houses are dotted about, but are chiefly detached, and can hardlybe said to form a square. At New End is the workhouse originally builtin 1845, but extended in 1870 and 1883. It is a solid and commodiousbuilding. Of the remainder of that part of Hampstead known as New End, it is almost impossible to give any detailed account. It is a curiousmedley of steeply tilted narrow streets, little passages, small cottagesset down at any angle, with vine or Virginia creeper growing over them, and here and there a hideous row of little modern brick houses. TheWhite Bear at New End is the oldest public-house in the parish, bearingdate 1704. Willow Road lays claim to its name by the fringe of willowsthat lines its northern side. 

The Flask Tavern in Flask Walk is on the site of one of the oldestbeerhouses in Hampstead; the present structure is a hideous brickbuilding of modern date. The Walk is reached from High Street under acovered entry, and the street is at first only wide enough for thepassage of one vehicle. Being on the side of the hill it shows, furtheron, a picturesque irregularity with the footway at a different levelfrom the road. Small rows of limes add a certain quaintness to itsaspect, and it is easy to imagine the four days' fair, beginning onAugust 1, which used to be held here annually. The watch-house andpublic stocks stood at the upper end of this street when removed fromHeath Street. 

It is easy to imagine that the name Flask originated in the shape of theroad, with its narrow neck and expanded end, but perhaps the Walk tookits name from the public-house, in which case the suggested derivationwould fail. 

Well Walk is the most celebrated spot in Hampstead, for here flow thefamous chalybeate waters, which rivalled those of Bath and TunbridgeWells, and in their best days drew an amazing army of gay people to thespot. The earliest mention of the spring is in the time of Charles II. , when a halfpenny token with the words "Dorothy Rippin at the well inHampsted" on the obverse was issued. In 1698 Susanna Noel with her sonBaptist, third Earl of Gainsborough, gave the well, encompassed by sixacres of ground, to the poor of Hampstead. It was in the beginning ofthe eighteenth century that the waters first became famous. Howitt saysthey were carried fresh every day for sale to Holborn Bars, CharingCross, and other central spots; but their palmy days did not last verylong, for in 1734 there was an attempt to revive interest in them by alaudatory pamphlet. However, while they were at the height of theirpopularity many persons whose names are well known were attracted bythem. It was at the Long Room, Hampstead, that Fanny Burney (afterwardsMadame D'Arblay) came to stay, and here she made her heroine Evelinaattend balls. Her book gained her such a circle of admirers that it issaid her second work was expected as eagerly as a novel from Scott. 

The chief building was the Pump Room, on the south side of the street, near where the entrance to Gainsborough Gardens now is. The firstrecorded entertainment here was on August 18, 1701, when a concert wasgiven. Concerts and entertainments of various kinds were kept up duringthe season. There was a bowling-green near. This house dated from aboutthe beginning of the eighteenth century. In 1733 it was converted intoan episcopal chapel, and was so used until 1849. There was anotherchapel called Sion Chapel in the vicinity, though its exact situation isunknown; here couples could be married for five shillings, provided theybrought with them a license. The license was not always insisted on. ThePump Room was later used as a guard-room of the West MiddlesexVolunteers, and was pulled down in 1880 to make way for the road abovementioned. It was then discovered by the intervening wall that theadjacent house was of still older date, and it is thus proved to be oneof the oldest remaining in Hampstead. It has a graceful spindle porchand delightful old-world air, though the side adjoining GainsboroughGardens has been refaced. 

Just opposite is a solid drinking fountain of polished granite, withinscription to the effect that it is in memory of Susanna Noel's gift, and here the chalybeate waters may still be tasted. One or two oldhouses are on the northern side of the Walk, and one of these, a long, low, red-brick edifice called Weatherhall House, deserves specialnotice. It contained the Long Room where dances and assemblies wereheld, and even after the fame of the waters declined it still held itsplace. Perhaps this is the room referred to by Seymour as having beenbuilt in 1735. He describes it as "60 feet long and 30 feet wide, welladorned with chandeliers. The manner of being admitted into it is by aticket, of which every gentleman who subscribes a guinea for the seasonhas one for himself and two more for two ladies; all those who have notsubscribers' tickets pay 2s. 6d. Each at the entrance every night. AndSunday nights in the same room is an assembly where the gentlemen andladies who lodge in the town are entertained with tea and coffee atsixpence per head, but no other amusements are allowed on these nights. "

Here Mrs. Johnson came, and Mark Akenside, poet and physician of theeighteenth century; Dr. Arbuthnot, friend of Swift, a man ranked highamong the wits of his day, and holding the appointment of physician toQueen Anne; Fanny Burney, and many others. The house is now a privateresidence. Standing further back from the road behind a quadrangle isBurgh House, also old. This was at one time used as a militia barracks, at which time (1863) the two solid wings adjoining the road wereerected. 

Burgh House is now a private residence, and the cells whereinsubordinate soldiers were confined are converted into the drying andmangling rooms of a laundry. 

The Wells Tavern is on the site of the Green Man, of ancient date. In1879 the Vestry proposed to sweep away the groves of the Well Walk andmake it into a modern thoroughfare, a New Wells Street, which drew forthindignant protest from the parishioners and a pamphlet from Sir GilbertScott. 

The renovations, accordingly, were confined to the opening of one or twonew streets on the south side, and the erection of the fountain. Buteven this involved the destruction of part of the old Pump Room. On thesite of the Pump Room is a new red-brick house called Wellside, built in1892, which has an inscription to that effect. Besides the Pump Room, Well Walk has many associations. The famous painter Constable lived in ahouse which was then numbered 6. He took this house as an extra one in1826, though still retaining the studio and a few rooms in his Londonhouse, near Fitzroy Square; he was then fifty, and was just beginning tofeel the small measure of success which was all that was granted him inhis lifetime. John Keats and his brothers lodged in Well Walk, next tothe Wells Tavern, in 1817-18; and the seat on which Keats loved to situnder a grove of trees at the most easterly end is still called by hisname. Here Hone found him "sobbing his dying breath into ahandkerchief. "

East Heath and South End Roads are traversed annually by millions ofpeople, for they lead from the station and the tramway terminus to theHeath, passing some nicely laid-out ground suggestive of awatering-place, and a curious octagonal tower connected with the watercompanies. 

To the north-east are the Hampstead ponds, which are supposed to havebeen made in Henry VIII. 's reign. They are certainly larger now thanthey were in the seventeenth century, and have probably been enlargedartificially. They are now in possession of the New River WaterworksCompany. The streets on the hill beyond the ponds are all modern. 

Gayton Road is composed entirely of modern villas in a continuousstraight line. Many of the streets in the vicinity are in the samestyle, and were built over open meadows at a comparatively recent date. On Downshire Hill is an episcopal chapel with white porch and smallcupola; this is dedicated to St. John. 

John Street, like Downshire Hill, has detached residences on eitherside. Large brick flats are rising on the ground once covered by LawnBank and Wentworth House. In the former Keats was a welcome visitor from1818 to 1820, and here he wrote many of his famous poems. Fanny Brawne, with her mother, occupied the adjacent house. 

Rosslyn Hill was formerly called Red Lion Hill, from a public-housewhich stood on the site of the present police-station. On the north sideare a Unitarian chapel and schools approached by handsome iron gates. The chapel is approached from Pilgrim Lane and Kemplay Road, and theschools from Willoughby Road. There stood near by until within the lasttwenty years an old building known as the Chicken House. This issupposed to have been once a hunting lodge of King James I. , thoughthere is little basis for the tradition. It became later a mean hovel, the rendezvous for the scum and riffraff of the neighbourhood. It stooda little back from the road just at the spot where Pilgrim Place now is, and contained some very curious stained glass in its windows. There wasin one section a portrait of King James I. , with an inscription on atablet below in French to the effect that the King slept here on August25, 1619. In another section was a corresponding portrait of thefavourite, Buckingham. Further north there existed another old houseknown as Carlisle House. Perhaps this is the one mentioned by Park as ared-brick Elizabethan house with rubbed quoins, which had been let intenements, and was in a ruinous state in 1777. 

On the south or western side of Rosslyn Hill there is the police-stationbefore mentioned, and adjacent an interesting Tudor house, which, thoughnot old, is well built; this contains the Soldiers' Daughters' Home. OldVane House previously stood here, and was the residence of Sir HarryVane of the Commonwealth, and later of Bishop Butler, who wrote the"Analogy. " The Home is on the site of the south wing of this building, and includes no part of it. Belmont House, now a private residence, wasthe northern wing. Baines speaks of a date, 1789, and the initialsI. R. W. Scored on the leads of the latter, but this gives no clue to theage of the building. He says: "The antiquity of the house is abundantlyshown by the arrangement of the basements, by the thickness of the mainwalls, and by a curious subterranean passage from the brewhouse to thestable-yard. "

The institution of the Soldiers' Daughters' Home was the outcome of thepatriotic feeling aroused by the Crimean War. The house was built forthe reception of the girls, who entered into possession in 1867. TheTudor feeling has been well carried out, from the deep porch whichoverlooks the ivy-surrounded courtyard in front to the stone staircaseswithin. The result is delightful; instead of the hideous dreariness ofan institution, we have a real home. At the back a large extent of grassplayground stretches out westward, and at the end of this there is agrove of trees. On one side of the grass is a large playroom built in1880 by means of an opportune legacy, and on the other a coveredcloister which leads to the school, standing detached from the house atthe other end of the playground. An old pier burdened with a mass of ivystands up in the centre, the only remnant of this part of old VaneHouse. Some years ago a portion of the ground was profitably sold forthe frontage to Fitz John's Avenue. 

The girls are received between the ages of six and eleven years, andremain until sixteen. They are trained in every requisite for domesticservice, and make all their own clothes except hats and boots. As abadge of the army, they are always dressed in scarlet. 

High Street has been greatly changed within recent years, and it iswithin the memory of living persons that there were trees on each side. The opening of the two new roads, Prince Arthur Road and Gayton Road, affected its appearance. At the corner of Prince Arthur Road is a largeWesleyan chapel in many coloured bricks. Opposite is the King ofBohemia, a public-house which dates back to Jacobean times, and containssome good Jacobean woodwork; also Stanfield House, once the residence ofClarkson Stanfield the artist, now used as a subscription library. TheFree Library reading-room is under the same roof. The house is of brickwith ivy climbing over it. About the end of old Church Lane cluster afew old red-brick houses, which preserve a certain flavour ofpicturesqueness in the street. Opposite the Wesleyan chapel a few morepeep over more modern additions. The north-east side is almost entirelymodern. The Bird in Hand public-house, where the London omnibusescomplete their journey, inherits the name and site of an old tavern. APresbyterian church at the corner of Willoughby Road dates from 1862, but replaces a much older one removed 1736. In the earlier one Mr. Barbauld, chiefly known on account of his famous wife, ministered formany years. After his death Mrs. Barbauld continued to live at RosslynHill. 

Heath Street cuts diagonally across the top of High Street. Below thejunction it is all modern, immense red-brick buildings of similar type, with large shops on the ground-floors. At the junction is an imposingfire-station, built by Vulliamy in 1874 on the site of the oldpolice-station. The street higher up is narrow and irregular, with arow of elms above the level of the roadway on the west side. Aconspicuous Baptist chapel in white stone with two western spires wasbuilt in 1862, but the origin of the congregation here dates from thepreaching of Whitfield on the Heath in 1739. The watch-house and stockswere formerly situated at the foot of Heath Street, and later removed toFlask Walk. About Golden Square there are many little irregular entwinedstreets and passages, with here and there a cottage, here and there theflat sashed windows of a house of a bygone generation, all intricate, entangled, but very quaint and charming. 

The Grove is a long shady avenue, with one or two fine old houses oneither side of the road and a few cottages. At the top is a big boys'school. On the east in one building are Old and New Grove Houses, andopposite is Fenton House, which was long known as the Clock House. NewGrove House was the residence of Du Maurier. At the north end is theHampstead Waterworks reservoir. 

A tree-shaded eminence, crowned with pleasant seats and commanding amagnificent view of the Heath, leads to Branch Hill. This, marked inPark's map Prospect Walk, is now called the Judge's Walk. This name isderived from a tradition that the judges came here and held their courtsunder canvas while the plague was raging in 1665. But derivations ofthis sort are very easy to make up and entirely unreliable. 

Lower and Upper Terraces just behind are full of charming residences. Inthe former Constable lived at intervals (No. 2) during 1821, and to thelatter Mrs. Siddons came in the autumn of 1804. In Montague House Sir G. Scott lived. 

Branch Hill runs down into Frognal Rise, and on the west there are oneor two big houses scattered about. 

Branch Hill Lodge belonged to Sir Thomas Clarke, Master of the Rolls in1745, who presented it to Lord Chancellor Macclesfield. It was for aperiod the residence of the Earl of Rosslyn, and tradition connects LordByron's name with it. It stands in beautiful and extensive grounds. Further along Branch Hill Road there are many new terraces and one ortwo big houses. 

Hollybush Hill is in a straight line with High Street, and between itand Heath Street there are curious little steep passages and alleys, which resemble those found in some Continental towns. Hollybush Hill isassociated with the name of Romney the artist, who lived here and builta studio in 1796. He was then sixty-two, the zenith of his career waspast, he suffered from ill-health and was morbid and irritable. Thestudio was converted into Assembly Rooms after his death, and is nowincorporated into the Constitutional Club building which adjoins. Thisclub is social and Conservative. The exterior is of rusticated woodwork, and a flagstaff stands before it. In the curious little side-streetknown as Holly Mount is the front of the Hollybush Tavern, a stuccoedbuilding with a somewhat fantastic wooden porch or veranda. Three housesin a row face the open space at the top of Hollybush Hill. The mosteasterly possesses a charming old ironwork gate supported by old brickpiers and the inevitable stone balls. This is protected by an outermodern gate. All three houses stand back behind gardens, so that onlyglimpses of them can be seen from the road. 

In Bolton House, the most westerly of the three, Joanna Baillie, dramatic writer, and her sister Agnes lived. Mr. Shaw, writing in the"Dictionary of National Biography, " says: "Geniality and hospitalitywere the characteristics of the two sisters during their residence atHampstead, and even when one became an octogenarian and the other anonagenarian they could enter keenly into the various literary andscientific controversies of the day. " This is next door to the houseknown as Windmill Hill, which is also the name given to the locality. Opposite is Mount Vernon, where the Hospital for Consumption stands, apleasant red-brick building which contains accommodation for eightyin-patients; the out-patient department is in Fitzroy Square. A newwing was opened by Princess Christian in 1893. On the sloping groundnear the old workhouse used to stand; before it was a workhouse, ColleyCibber used to meet Booth and Wilkes to arrange his dramatic campaignsin this building. 

Behind the hospital is a Roman Catholic chapel, in which Mary Andersonwas married. This was built in 1816, and the founder was the Abbé Morel. The front is stuccoed, and in a niche there is a group of Virgin andChild. Close by a stone slab bears the name "Holly Place, 1816. "

St. Vincent's Roman Catholic Orphanage occupies No. 's 1, 2, 3, HollyPlace. To the west are big National schools and playgrounds, and acurving hill called Hollybush Vale runs into the modern part of HeathStreet. On the west of Heath Street are Oriel Place and Church Lane. Atthe corner of the latter is the Sailors' Orphan Girls' Home. This is abig formal building, with none of the architectural beauty which marksthe sister establishment on Rosslyn Hill. The institution, however, claims an older date, having been founded in 1829. The present buildingwas opened in 1869 by the Duke of Edinburgh. The girls are kept from sixto sixteen years of age and trained for domestic service. Their uniformis the naval colour, dark blue. This road, running past the buildingformerly called Greenhill, is now merged into Fitz John's Avenue. 

Church Row is almost entirely old, one of the most lovable and quietparts of the parish--houses of brick with flat-sashed windows, projecting porches with carved brackets, here and there red tiles, hereand there a bower of jasmine and ivy. One house covered with rusticatedwoodwork projects above the ground-floor in a bay carried up to theroof. 

Dr. Sherlock, Dean of St. Paul's, and a great theological andcontroversial writer in the reigns of William III. And Anne, and Dr. Arbuthnot were former residents in the Row, and the great Dr. Johnsonstayed at Frognal Park in the vicinity. Mrs. Barbauld (see p. 25) andMiss Aikin are also to be numbered among the residents. There is anindustrial school for girls, and at the western end of the Row theparish church (St. John the Evangelist) rears its tower beyond a line ofsmall lime-trees. The place has, however, recently been disfigured byhigh mansions. 

The parish of Hampstead was originally included in that of Hendon. Thechurchwardens of Hampstead first appeared at the Bishop's visitation in1598, which therefore marks the beginning of an actual parochialsettlement, though the register commences in 1560, nearly forty yearsearlier. Until 1561 it was considered as a donative or free chapel, andafter that date it became a perpetual curacy, subject to thejurisdiction of the Bishop and the Archdeacon. 

The first church or chapel, which stood on the same site as the presentone, must have been a curious little structure, if one may judge fromthe illustrations still extant--a low-pitched Gothic building withwooden belfry. This was dedicated to St. Mary, and the date of itsorigin is unknown. In 1745 it was taken down, and services were held inthe chapel in Well Walk for two years, while the new church was beingbuilt. The building itself is of a kind of dingy earth-brick, which, inspite of the conspicuous date, 1745, at the east end, looks as fresh andsharp-edged as if it were of yesterday. The body of the church ismercifully clothed in ivy, but the square tower, with its abnormalbattlements and stone courses and facings, rises up nakedly. Thepeculiarity of the church is that the tower is at the east end. Theconical copper spire was added in 1784. An old clock-dial of stone faceseastward. 

To raise funds for the building of the church a plan was formed by whichthose who gave £50 were to have first choice of seats, and to have theadditional privilege of handing on such seats to their heirs. Thisarrangement continued until 1827. Besides many minor alterations andimprovements, a thorough rearrangement of the interior took place in1878. Then a chancel was added at the west end, and thus we have beneathit the open-arched vaults which form its support. The old pews were doneaway with, and the interior redecorated. The reredos is of mosaic work. The font is of Siena marble "with moulded bases and carved Ioniccapitals of white statuary. " The general scheme of decoration is of afree Renaissance colour. The restoration cost £14, 000. The ceiling isvery elaborately decorated, and in a side chapel is a large frescopainting. The choir is ornamented by beautiful inlaid wood, in the samestyle as the font cover. There is an excellent bust of Keats, presentedby American admirers in 1894. 

The churchyard is a peculiarly peaceful spot, surrounded by trees, beeches, acacia, and evergreens. There are no abnormal monstrositiessuch as are found among the tombstones of our big cemeteries, but plainaltar-tombs, crosses, and upright slabs of stone. The main entrance isby flagged walks between neatly-trimmed hedges, and from this foregroundeven the church looks almost picturesque. 

The tomb of John Constable the artist, his wife, and some of hischildren, is in a shaded corner in the south-east. Joanna Baillie isburied here, and Lucy Aikin, also Lord Erskine, and many minor artists. The churchyard was enlarged in 1738, and in 1811 an additional groundwas formed on the north side of the road. Here, though it is verypeaceful, there is not the same charm as there is about the olderground. Mrs. Rundle Charles, author of "The Chronicles of the SchonbergCotta Family, " rests here, with a plain Iona marble cross bearing date1896, as her memorial. 

The more important of the parish charities are:

The Wells and Campden Charity, originating in the Gainsborough bequestof the well and six acres of land in Well Walk. In 1642 Lady Campdenbequeathed £200 to trustees to purchase land for the poor of the parish, and to this other legacies were added. Freehold land was purchased atChild's Hill, and in 1855 the distribution of the money was reorganized. 

The oldest parish benefactor was Thomas Charles, who in 1617 left moneyto buy bread for the poor of the parish. The bread is still bought anddistributed. Various other bequests of small amounts were made from timeto time. About 1723 the then Bishop of London, John Robinson, left £169odd for the poor. 

The succeeding bequests were below this in value until 1771, whenWilliam Pierce, a surgeon, left the interest on £1, 700 in 3 per cents. To endow a Friday evening lecture, to pay the parish clerk and othersfor attendance, and to buy Bibles and Prayer-Books. John Stock'sCharity produces nearly £80 per annum for the clothing and education ofpoor children. The next in importance was Thomas Rumsey's gift of £900, the interest on which was to buy coals for the poor. The other bequestsare too numerous and too small in amount to mention. 

The origin of the name of Frognal is not known, though the locality isof some importance, as it contained the old manor-house where the CourtsLeet were held. The demesne lands at Frognal occupied from four to fivehundred acres of the best land stretching from Child's Hill to Belsize. The old manor-house, which stood at the north-east corner of West EndLane, was a long, low farmhouse building which contained a big hall. Mr. Pool, a lessee, pulled it down and built a brick house on the site, and, later, built a small house on the south side of the lane, where he wentto live himself. The Courts followed him, and were held there. There arenow on the site of the ancient manor-house two buildings side by side;the one to which the ancient title has descended appears the moremodern. The Ferns next door looks older, in spite of Howitt's assertionthat the manor-house built by Mr. Pool is the same now bearing the name, and The Ferns occupies the site of the former manor-house. There arenumerous substantial and comfortable houses in the vicinity. FrognalHall, near the west end of the church, was the residence of Isaac Ware, architect, and here Lord Alvanley died. 

To the north-west are a row of new buildings, forming a crescent on thehill called Oakhill Park, and to one of these Miss Florence Nightingaleis a frequent visitor during the summer months. At the top of FrognalGardens the Editor of this survey lived. Returning again to West EndLane, we find the hand of the modern builder everywhere apparent. Untilrecently a mock antique erection in the Gothic style known as FrognalPriory formed a feature in the landscape; this has quite disappeared. Itwas built by a dealer in curios known as "Memory" Thompson about the endof the eighteenth century, and was full of curiosities. The owner waspleased to have visitors to inspect his property, and it is said thatone of his freaks was to leave five-shilling pieces lying about for themto pick up. Lower down the Frognal Road all is modern, and we come intothe part formerly known as Shepherd's or Conduit Fields. There was aspring here which used to be the principal source of the Hampsteadwater-supply. The water was carried in pails by persons who thus earneda livelihood. An old woodcut of this well is still extant; it isrepresented as a spring with an arch over it. The building ofFitz-John's Avenue, cutting right through the fields, quite destroyedtheir character, and they are now more or less covered with streets. 

Rosslyn House, which stood between Wedderburn and Lyndhurst Roads, deserves a word of mention as one of the latest of the famous oldHampstead houses to be destroyed. It was originally called ShelfordHouse, but changed its name when it became the property of AlexanderWedderburn, first Earl of Rosslyn, Lord High Chancellor of GreatBritain, 1793. It was noted for its magnificent avenue of Spanishchestnuts said to have been planted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Elizabethan relics have been found in the vicinity. The grounds are nowcut up and let for building purposes. Woodlands, another fine largehouse, is also shorn of its glory, roads having been driven through itsleafy gardens. 

West End Ward embraces that portion of Hampstead which is limited by theHampstead junction railway on the south and the Finchley Road on theeast. 

West End still preserves the character of a little hamlet, thoughsurrounded on all sides by new streets. The name arose from its beingthe western terminus of the demesne lands. The small triangular bit ofgreen at the junction of Fortune Green and Mill Lanes preserves itsrural aspect, with two little tumbledown, creeper-covered cottagesoverlooking it, though it will probably before long suffer from theplague of red brick. To the south there is a line of buildings andshops, with a few--a very few--of older date wedged in between the newones. West End Hall, a square red-brick house of respectable antiquity, stands back behind a rather dilapidated wooden palisade, but a row ofmagnificent elms lines the street before it. Beyond it are one or twoother houses in their own grounds. Here a fair was formerly heldannually on July 26 and two following days. 

Mill Lane was formerly Shoot-up-Hill Lane, a name now absorbed by aportion of the northern road into which it runs on the west. The presentname is derived from a mill which stood in the Edgware Road, and wasburnt in 1861, owing to the friction caused by the high velocity of thesails in a gale of wind. A building called Kilburn Mill still marks thewestern end of the lane, though it is in a dilapidated condition, withthe windows broken. Mill Lane was widened by the Vestry, and now runsbetween rows of small houses, all of modern date. At the top of AldredRoad is a big brick building, the Field Lane Boys' Industrial School. Atthe corner of the same road stood an unpretentious little church, builtin 1871; it has been pulled down in the last few years. A little furthereastward in Mill Lane is a national school looking rather like achapel, and then we come to the Green again. 

There is little in Fortune Green Lane that calls for comment. On thewest side it is completely lined with small new houses. The Green at thetop still remains open for the geese to hiss and cackle over at theirwill. The Hampstead cemetery lies on the north. This consists of about20 acres of land, and two-thirds of it was consecrated by the Bishop ofLondon in 1876, the remainder being left unconsecrated. A smooth driveruns down between close-shaven turf, and is lined by rows of singularlyuniform monuments, of which two-thirds are in the form of marblecrosses. The chapel, with its two wings for Church of England andNonconformists, connected by a pointed spire and tower, stands acrossthe central drive as an archway. There is a different kind offascination in this well-kept, quiet spot from that derived from theirregularity of sloping Highgate or the monstrous tombs and overpoweringvaults at Kensal Town. There are many persons buried here whose namesare known to those of their own country and time, but none of anyworld-wide note. Maas the singer is perhaps the most important amongthem. We have now commented on the principal parts of the ward, exceptthe great eastern and western roads by which it is bounded. 

Finchley Road bounds the borough on the west. Beginning at SwissCottage, we recall the fact that Hood died in a house near the presentrailway-station which is now pulled down. The first building thatstrikes the eye is New College, for Nonconformists, a big stone edificestanding on a green lawn behind a row of small trees. On the oppositeside, further northward, building operations are taking place on a largescale. On the west side again is Trinity Church, date 1872, a smallchurch of ragstone with red-tiled roof. We travel much further on beforearriving at any other feature of interest, passing Finchley Road Stationand the shops gathered in the vicinity, also the Hampstead PublicLibrary, a big building at the corner of Arkwright Road. Hampstead wascomparatively slow in adopting the Public Library Act. The site for itslibrary was acquired from Sir Maryon Wilson, and the stone was laid bySir Henry Harben, who had given £5, 000 for the erection of the building. Five branch libraries are established in connection, and the main one ischiefly for reference. This was opened in 1897. Further on, we pass onthe east numerous rows of red-brick houses, and on the west the fieldsand meadow-lands still open. 

Then we come to a huge red brick building with terra-cotta facings; thiswas founded in 1866, and is intended both as a college and seminary. Itbelongs to the Congregationalists, and their chapel attached is of thesame materials, and was founded in 1894. Another well-known institutionis Westfield College for ladies, which stands in Kidderpore Avenue onthe rising ground to the west of Finchley Road. The front of the house, in which the entrance is, is an old building called Kidderpore Hall, andto this the large modern wing inhabited by the students was added in1890. The work is for the London Degrees in Arts and Sciences. There areforty-five students, and each one has two rooms, a larger allowance thanis made at Girton. Through the fields, beyond the cemetery, a windingfootpath takes us over the railway into the Edgware Road. 

The part of the road which goes by the name of Shuttup Hill orShoot-up-Hill deserves some comment. The Knights Templars anciently heldan estate here of which the origin is obscure. At the Dissolution KingHenry seized it, and handed it over to the Hospitallers of St. John ofJerusalem. But their turn was to come also. In 1540 the King despoiledthem, and gave Shoot-up-Hill to Sir Roger Cholmeley. At a later date wefind that this and the estate at Kilburn were vested in the same holder, Sir Arthur Atye and Judith his wife. 

There is very little to remark on in this hill. A few of the houses onthe west are not aggressively modern, but those on the east are allstartlingly new. St. Cuthbert's Church, built in 1887, stands at theend of St. Cuthbert's Road. 

Howitt derives the name of Kilburn from Kule-bourne or Coal-brook. Theearliest mention of this locality is when one Godwyn, a hermit, retiredhere in the reign of Henry I. , and "built a cell near a little rivulet, called in different records Cuneburne, Keelebourne, Coldbourne, andKilbourne, on a site surrounded with wood. " This stream is the samewhich passed southward to the Serpentine, and empties itself into theThames at Chelsea, called in its lower course the Westbourne. 

Between 1128 and 1134 Godwyn granted his hermitage to the conventualchurch of St. Peter, Westminster. The Abbot, with the consent of theconvent, gave it to three pious maidens, Emma, Gunhilda, and Cristina, who are said to have been maids of honour to Queen Matilda. They were tolive here, and Godwyn was to be master warden, and on his death theywere to choose some staid and senior person to fill his place. It is tobe gathered that the maidens were bound to celibacy, though noparticular monastic rule seems to have been enjoined. In the ensuingyears there were jealousies between the Bishop of London and the Abbotof Westminster, who both claimed jurisdiction over the Priory. The Pope, in 1224, who arbitrated, gave the award in the Abbot's favour, but theBishop appealed to the Bishops of Rochester and Prior of Dunstable, and, as they were on his side, he calmly assumed authority. The Priorywas enriched by various grants and privileges, and its devoteesincreased in number. At the dissolution of the monasteries the King gaveit to the Prior of St. John of Jerusalem in exchange for some lands hewanted. But in 1540 he wrested it from him, and regranted it to Robert, Earl of Sussex. As has been mentioned above, Kilburn eventually cameinto the same holding as Shoot-up-Hill. 

A sketch of the Priory as it remained in 1772 is still extant, and showsa little barn-like building with exterior buttresses and gable-ends. Needless to say that no trace of it now remains, though its memory isperpetuated in the names of Priory, Abbots, and Abbey Roads. 

When the foundations for the London and North-Western Railway were dugin 1850 various relics were found--tessellated tiles, human bones, and abunch of old-fashioned keys, etc. --which pointed to the fact that thePriory had stood on that site. This spot is still pointed out not farfrom Kilburn Station, close by the place where Priory Road goes over therailway. It is a most uninteresting spot at present, with dullrespectable middle-class shops leading up to it. 

A legend of Kilburn given in Timbs' "Romance of London" may be alludedto here. It states that at "a place called St. John's Wood, nearKilburn, " there was a stone stained dark-red with the blood of SirGervase de Mertoun, who was slain by his brother, who had becomeenamoured of his wife. Gervase, with his dying breath, exclaimed: "Thisstone shall be my deathbed!" The brother Stephen suffered remorse forhis crime, and ordered a handsome mausoleum to be erected to hisvictim's memory, which was to be built of stone taken from the quarrywhere the murder was committed. As the eye of the murderer rested on acertain stone, blood was seen to issue from it. This completed themurderer's horror and remorse; he confessed his fault and died shortlyafter, leaving his property to Kilburn Priory. 

Kilburn Wells became famous about the middle of the eighteenth century, and soon rivalled those of Hampstead as a place of entertainment. Evenso late as 1818 they were a favourite resort for Londoners. 

The High Road at Kilburn, continuing in a straight line into Maida Valeand the Edgware Road, is the old Watling Street of the Romans. 

As a street it possesses little interest. Lines of modern red-brickbuildings with shops on the ground-floor form the main part of it, andfurther south the shops are smaller, the buildings more irregular. 

In the remainder of the ward pleasant rows of moderate-sized houses withsmall trees growing before them form the majority of the streets. 

In Priory Road is St. Mary's Church, a fine stone edifice in the Gothicstyle, dating from 1857. Behind this are open fields, rapidly beingencroached upon by the builder. 

In Quex Road there is a large Wesleyan chapel with a big portico, closeby a Roman Catholic church with high-pitched roof, which instantlyrecalls the Carmelite Church at Kensington; the architect was the same, Pugin. It was built in 1878, and inside is lofty and light, withpolished gray granite pillars supporting the roof. 

A slight account of the Manor of Belsize has been given above (see p. 2). The manor-house stood about the site of the present church, St. Peter's, and Rocque's map of 1745 shows it in the middle of veryextensive grounds surrounded by fields. In the beginning of theeighteenth century the house was a place of public entertainment. Insome newspaper cuttings from the _Daily Post_, date 1720, we read thatthe "ancient and noble house" had been fitted up for the entertainmentof ladies and gentlemen during the whole summer season, and was to beopened with "uncommon Solemnity of Dancing and Music. " Among theentertainments mentioned are the Park, Bowling Green, and Fish Ponds. The latter were stored with the "best of Carp and other Fish, " and thecompany might amuse themselves by angling or catching them with nets, when they should be "dressed to perfection. " We hear also that the Parkwas well stocked with deer, and in August, 1721, a notice was issued. "Besides the usual Diversions, there is to be a wild Fox Hunted ToMorrow, the 1st inst. , to begin at four a clock. " One hundred coachescould stand in the square of the house, if we may trust the advertiser, and "Twelve men will continue to guard the Road every night till thelast of the Company are gone. " There was a satirical poem called"Belsize House, " published in 1722, showing that the house had earned abad reputation. Belsize Avenue, Park Gardens, and Buckland Crescent areall built over the property. There is a tradition that the house was theprivate residence of the Right Hon. Sir Spencer Perceval, when it ceasedto be a place of amusement in 1745. In 1841 the place was demolished, and the site transformed as we now see it. 

Belsize Lane is very old, being marked between hedges in Rocque's 1745map, and shown as leading to the grounds of the manor-house. Baines saysthat about 1839 "Belsize Lane was long, narrow, and lonesome; midway init was a very small farm, and near thereto the owner of Belsize Houseerected a turnpike gate to demonstrate his rights of possession. "

The lane at present boasts a few shops and modern red-brick houses, butit is greatly bounded by high garden walls, and the gardens reachingfrom the backs of the houses in Belsize Avenue. 

Belsize Avenue is a park-like road, from which on the south side stretchthe meadows of Belsize Park. Large elm-trees of great age throw shadeacross the road, and seats afford rest to those climbing the ascent toHaverstock Hill. Up to 1835 a five-barred gate closed the east-end andmade the road private. 

In Belsize Square stands the Church of St. Peter, with a squarepinnacled tower. This was consecrated in 1859, and the chancel addedsome seventeen years later. It is in the decorated style of Gothic, andhas a row of picturesque gable-ends lining the north-east side. 

Belsize and Buckland Crescents and Belsize Park Gardens are all in thesame pleasant villa-like style, with trees and bushes growing beside theroadway, but their chief claim to interest lies in their associationwith the old manor-house. 

The southern part of this ward is still more modern than the above, thegreater part having been built over since 1851. Eton Avenue is lined byprettily-built, moderate-sized houses of bright red brick alternatingwith open spaces yet unbuilt on. 

The north-eastern corner of the ward, including Eton Road, Provost Road, Oppidans Road, College Road, and Fellows Road, is made up of mediumhouses, many covered with rough stucco, and with a profusion offlowering trees and bushes in the small gardens. This section of theparish might well be part of some fashionable and fresh watering-place. At No. 6, Eton Road lived Robertson, author of "Caste" and other plays. St. Saviour's Church, built of ragstone, is at the corner of Eton andProvost Roads; it is in Early English style, consecrated 1856. 

Fellows Road runs into Steele Road, near the end of which, on HaverstockHill, is the Sir Richard Steele public-house. These names commemorate areal fact. Sir Richard Steele had a cottage on Haverstock Hill, of whichprints are still extant. They show a funny little square, barn-likebuilding with pent house-roof, set in the middle of fields andsurrounded by trees. With a vividness of detail that does more credit tohis imagination than his eye the artist has depicted St. Paul'sCathedral in the not very far distance!

England's Lane in 1839 was bounded on the south side by palings and awall, and on the north side by low palings and a ditch full of water. 

Three houses there were in it, Chalcots, North Hall, and Wychcomb. In aview of the lane in 1864 we see a leafy country road with fine timbergrowing over it. The lane at present is chiefly lined by shops, thoughthere are a few private houses. 

In the Upper Avenue Road stands a large brick building with stuccoedfacings; it is the institution of the Society for Teaching the Blind, founded in 1838. In 1840 certain industrial occupations were added tothe tuition in reading, which had been the primary object of thefoundation. After moving to several localities in succession, in 1847the present site was obtained. In 1864 the building was enlarged, andexternal workshops have since been added. The institution is entirelysupported by voluntary contributions, though a few paying pupils areadmitted. The pupils are taught any industrial trade which may supportthem in after-life, such as piano-tuning, knitting, chair-caning, basket-making, as well as the usual branches of a useful education. Theyare admitted at any age under eight, and leave at twenty-one if men, andtwenty-four if women. There are day-scholars in attendance as well asthose resident in the house. 

In Winchester Road are a few shops and St. Paul's parochial schools. Where Eton Avenue and Adamson Road join there is the Hampsteadconservatoire of music, a large brick building. 

Professor Hales suggests that the word Haverstock in Haverstock Hill maycome from "aver, " the Low Latin _averia_ meaning cattle. He says that, as in Rocque's map Pond is Pound Street, perhaps a cattle pound stoodhere. The hill is at present a toilsome ascent, but most picturesque;masses of shady trees in the grounds of Woodlands and Hillfield hangover the seats placed for wayfarers, and on the east side, in spring, bushes of flowering lilac or laburnum soften the picturesque red tilesand bricks of the well-built modern houses. Here and there a small rowof shops forms a straight line, but between them the villa houses aredotted about at any angle. 

Of public buildings or institutions on the hill there are not many. TheBorough Hall, a red-brick building in the Italian style, stands at thecorner of Belsize Avenue. It was built in 1876, and first used for theCambridge Local Examination for Women. 

Further up on the other side is St. Stephen's Church, which differs verymuch from the ordinary church of the last half-century. It stands well, surrounded by an enclosure of green grass, on a spot formerly calledHampstead Green. The best view is obtained from Lyndhurst Road. Justbelow it is the entrance to the immense buildings of the North-WesternHospital. The brick wall encloses a house and front-garden at one timebelonging to Sir Rowland Hill. This site was acquired by theMetropolitan Asylums Board in 1868, and was destined to be used forcases of infectious disease, a plan which provoked the greatestagitation in the parish. In 1870 a severe epidemic of small-pox brokeout, and some wards were hastily built in addition to those which hadalready been used for fever patients. As this was followed by anoutbreak of small-pox in the parish, the parishioners very naturallywished the hospital to be removed, but without result. In 1876 anotheroutbreak and a further congregation of patients had the same result, andafter a long and protracted fight the inhabitants of Hampstead obtaineda verdict preventing the Asylums Board from using the hospital forsmall-pox, though fever cases were not prohibited. In 1882 a RoyalCommission inquired into the facts regarding the spread of disease fromhospitals, and gave as their decision that thirty or forty patientsmight safely be treated when a larger number would be injurious to theneighbourhood. The Asylums Board eventually came to terms, agreeing torestrict the hospital cases of small-pox to the number mentioned, to paythe plaintiffs' costs, and an additional £1, 000 by way of damages; butthey demanded that Sir Rowland's property should be sold to them. 

The terms were accepted, and the hospital henceforth was known as theNorth-Western Hospital. In 1884 another epidemic of small-pox causedthem to fill the limited number of beds agreed upon, but as this alsowas followed by an outbreak of the disease in Hampstead, a fresh appealwas made by the local authorities, and ended in victory, no moresmall-pox patients being received. The hospital was in full use duringthe scarlet fever epidemic of 1888. 

Close by the entrance to the hospital is an ancient inn, The George. Ithas been repaired and renovated, but still shows its picturesquelyancient lines. In front of the inn there used to be tea-gardens. Aconvent of the Sisters of Providence is not far south. Looking upHaverstock Hill from Chalk Farm there is an almost unbroken line ofgreenery. Moderate-sized houses stand back on either side in theirgardens. 

The Load of Hay was originally a very old inn, but has been rebuiltrecently, and is now a hideous yellow-brick public-house, with date1863. Just opposite the Load of Hay lived Sir Richard Steele, in apicturesque two-storied cottage, already mentioned. The cottage waslater divided into two, and in 1867 was pulled down. 

Park Road is a long thoroughfare of no particular interest. At the northend a range of red-brick, wide-windowed buildings attract attention. These are studios, occupied by some of the artists for which Hampsteadis famous; among the names perhaps that of W. Q. Orchardson, R. A. , isthe best known. Beyond are the London Street Tramway Companies stables, and to the north and east we get into a district very poor and slummyfor such a fresh, pleasant suburb as Hampstead. 

The Fleet Road recalls the Fleet River, which had origin among the hillsof Hampstead and flowed down over this course. The hospital wall linesone side of this dreary street. At the upper end, where two or threeroads meet, there is a fountain and pump, and this open space is knownas the Green and Pond Street. Pond Street seems to have alternatelyencroached upon and receded from the Green, houses being named in one orthe other according to fancy. The street is steep and irregularly built. It was about this site that some of the first houses in Hampstead werebuilt. 

On the south-east side of the lane which leads to the hospital SirSydney Godolphin Osborne resided. Sir Rowland Hill has been alreadymentioned. Prince Talleyrand stayed in a house afterwards occupied bySir Francis Palgrave, and later by Teulon the architect. In theadjoining house was Edward Irving, founder of the sect of that name, andnext to him the sculptor Bacon. Collins the artist also lived in PondStreet. In No. 21 there is at present an Industrial Home for Girls. 

Adelaide Ward contains very little that is of interest. The streets areall of one pattern, formed of detached or semi-detached villas standinga little back from the road, with small trees growing before them. 

The three churches in this part--namely, St. Paul's, Avenue Road; AllSouls, Loudoun Road; and St. Mary the Virgin, Primrose Hill Road--alldate from the last thirty or forty years, and are in the same style, built of brick, and requiring no special notice. 

Primrose Hill rises to the height of 216 feet in a conical shape, andcommands a magnificent view. The earliest name was Barrow Hill, and thename Primrose Hill was first used in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; itoriginated, it is said, from the quantity of primroses which grew here. Professor Hales, in an address to the Hampstead Antiquarian andHistorical Society, quoted from the "Roxburgh Ballads, " printed about1620:

 "When Philomel begins to sing, The grass grows green and flowers spring, Methinks it is a pleasant thing To walk on Primrose Hill. "

It was in a ditch on Primrose Hill that the body of Sir EdmondburyGodfrey, who was mysteriously murdered, was found in 1678. Soon afterQueen Victoria's accession the hill was obtained by the Crown as apublic space for the people for ever, the provost and fellows of Etonsurrendering their rights in consideration of an exchange of land. 

The derivation of the odd name of Chalk Farm was not from any chalkfound in the vicinity, but is a corruption of Chalcots, a country houseor farm which stood on the south side of England's Lane. Contemporaryprints show us a large white house with balconies and pleasure-grounds, for the house was at one time one of the minor tea-gardens in which theNorth of London seemed particularly rich. 

Chalk Farm was a favourite spot for duels in the earlier half of thenineteenth century. The Adelaide Tavern dates from 1839, and facing thespot there was previously a toll-house with turnpike gate. 

We have now traversed the length and breadth of Hampstead, finding theremuch that is picturesque, some few things ancient and many modern; andabove all we have experienced some of the charm and freshness of thisfavoured spot. It is not difficult to see why Hampstead has been sofrequently selected as a home by artists--and not by artists alone, butby literary men of all classes. Its natural advantages and its manyassociations have exercised, and continue to exercise, a fascinationwhich draws men potently, in spite of some drawbacks, not the least ofwhich is its inaccessibility. 

MARYLEBONE

The derivation of this name is simple. Lysons says: "The name of thisplace was anciently called Tiburn, from its situation near a small bournor rivulet formerly called Aye-brook or Eye-brook, and now TybournBrook. When the site of the church was altered to another spot, near thesame brook, it became St. Mary at the Bourne, now corrupted to St. Maryle bone or Marybone. " There is a possibility that the "bourne" did notindicate the brook, but the boundary of the parish, in which caseMarybone would still be a corruption of St. Mary at the Bourne. 

The borough of Marylebone is unique in many respects. It contains manywell-known and magnificent houses, such as Montagu House, PortmanSquare; Hertford House, Manchester Square, where is Sir RichardWallace's collection of pictures and curiosities; Portland House, Cavendish Square; and others. More than two-thirds of Regent's Park arewithin its boundaries, including nearly all the Zoological Gardens. Insome parts of the borough the street lists furnish many titled andfamous names; in others are the poorest and most squalid districts, rivalling in misery those of the East End. 

Many foreign embassies are located within the parish boundaries. But themost striking characteristic is the great number of hospitals. There arehospitals for special diseases everywhere, besides large institutionswhich have acquired more than Metropolitan fame. 

The ancient Tyburn stream ran right through this district. It rose notfar from Swiss Cottage, and ran for a few hundred yards through Regent'sPark, across the road at Sussex Place, between Gloucester Place andBaker Street, across the Marylebone Road, then, turning westward underMadame Tussaud's, by South Street to the foot of High Street, passingalong close to Mandeville Place, it crossed Wigmore Street and soreached Oxford Street. 

The manor of Tyburn is mentioned in Domesday Book among the possessionsof the Abbess and Convent of Barking. Early in the thirteenth century itwas held by Robert de Vere, whose daughter married William de Insula, Earl of Warren and Surrey, from whom the manor passed to their heirs, the Fitzalans, Earls of Arundel. The Berkeleys, Nevilles and Howardsdivided three-quarters of it later, and one quarter went to Henry V. Asheir of the Earls of Derby. 

About the end of the fifteenth century Thomas Hobson bought up thegreater part of the manor, and in 1544 his son Thomas exchanged it withHenry VIII. In consideration of lands elsewhere. 

The manor remained with the Crown until James I. Sold it to one EdwardForset, who had previously held it at a fixed rental under Elizabeth. James reserved to the Crown the tract of land then known as Marylebone, now Regent's, Park. Sir John Austen, Forset's grandson, sold the estateto John Holles, Duke of Newcastle, for £17, 500. The Duke of Newcastle'sonly child, Henrietta, married Edward Harley, who succeeded his fatheras Earl of Oxford and Mortimer. He carried on his father's collection ofbooks and MSS. , and formed what was afterwards known as the HarleianCollection, which was bought by the trustees of the British Museum for£10, 000. Henrietta's only daughter, Margaret, married William Bentinck, second Earl of Portland, and thus the estates passed to the Portlandfamily. 

In the west was another manor, that of Lyllestone, a name stillpreserved in the corruption, "Lisson" Grove. This manor is mentioned inDomesday Book among the lands in the hundred of Ossulston. In 1338 itwas in the hands of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Sir Williamde Clyf held it from the knights. In 1512 the then Lord Prior granted aparcel of land out of the manor to John and Johan Blennerhasset on afifty years' lease. On their decease Chief Justice Portman acquiredtheir interest, afterwards obtaining the land in fee simple, and thuscreating the Portman estate. This estate comprised 270 acres. Theremainder of Lyllestone Manor included several estates of importance. The St. John's Wood estate was granted by Charles II. To Lord Wotton indischarge of a debt. In 1732 it was bought by Samuel Eyre, after whom itwas known as the Eyre Estate. 

Another estate lying along the Edgware Road was bequeathed to HarrowSchool by John Lyon. A third was known as City Conduit Estate. Theborough at present embraces the Eyre estate at St. John's Wood, theBaker estate, comprising the poor district to the west of Lisson Grove, the Portman estate, the Portland estate, and other land, including thepark held by the Crown. 

Beginning our ramble at St. John's Wood Station in the heart of theborough, we find ourselves near the well-known Lord's Cricket Ground. Thomas Lord first made a cricket-ground in what is now Dorset Square, and in 1814 it was succeeded by the present one, which is theheadquarters of the Marylebone Cricket Club, the club that gives laws tothe cricketing world. Among the most popular matches which take placehere are the annual contests between Oxford and Cambridge, Eton andHarrow, when the resources of space are taxed to the utmost. Besidesthese, during the season, the M. C. C. Matches, the Middlesex Clubmatches, and Gentlemen _v. _ Players are played here. Lord's has beenincreased many times since its inauguration; most recently by a piece ofground, about two acres, which was formerly part of the site of theClergy Orphanage. This was presented by the Great Central RailwayCompany in return for the privilege of being permitted to tunnel acorner of the cricket ground. 

The extension of the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway, now known as the Great Central Railway, has completely altered the faceof Marylebone. The demolition caused by it extends up the west side ofthe Wellington and Finchley Roads; but it is further south that thegreatest changes have taken place. St. John's Wood Road is itselfuntouched, the line passing under it. 

The part of the parish lying to the west and north contains nothing ofany exceptional interest. There are wide roads and well-built terraces, and an air of prosperity that speaks well for the neighbourhood. A Homefor Incurable Children, founded in 1873, is near the Maida Vale end ofSt. John's Wood Road, and in Hamilton Terrace is St. Mark's Church, inmodern Gothic style; a Presbyterian church and several chapels are alsoto be found in this neighbourhood. 

Returning to the point from whence we set out, we find St. John's WoodChapel, which is in the classical style, designed by Hardwicke in 1814. The chapel stands well at the junction of four important roads; itsIonic portico is dignified and suitable to the position. The body of thechapel is covered with ivy, and the windows look down on a largeburial-ground, now open as a public garden, which is peculiarly brightand well kept. In it are many fine trees, chiefly willows, whichoverhang the seats placed for public comfort. The gravestones, which aremany, have not been removed, and with few exceptions are of the regularround-topped pattern. In the vault beneath the chapel lies the wife ofBenjamin West, P. R. A. In 1833 there had been about 40, 000 persons buriedin this ground, and it is probable this number was greatly exceededbefore the burials ceased. Joanna Southcott was buried here in 1814. 

Further north in the Finchley Road All Saints' Church stands upconspicuously. This is a fine church in the Perpendicular style, builtin 1846. The chancel was added in 1866, and the tower and spire in 1889. It is really the church of the Eyre estate, and was largely built by theEyre family. There is in it a beautiful marble font of uncommonpattern, and a pulpit to match. 

This part of Marylebone, to the north of Regent's Park, has a HighStreet of its own--a wide street with comparatively low buildings. Thevista, on looking back from the top to the trees of the burial-groundand Regent's Park, is not unattractive. The shops which line either sideof the road, though small, are clean and bright. St. John's Wood Terraceis a very wide thoroughfare. In it stands St. John's Wood Church, chiefly distinguished by a very heavy portico. The church is at presentused by the Congregationalists, and was formerly known as ConnaughtChapel. Just beyond the chapel we come to the St. Marylebone Almshouses. They are built round three sides of a square, and enclose a quadrangleof green grass. The blue slate roofs and drab stuccoed walls form agentle contrast. The central house, occupied by the superintendent, isfronted by a clock over the Royal Arms. 

By the will of Simon, Count Woronzow, dated September 19, 1827, the sumof £500 was left for the poor of the parish of Marylebone, and this sumwas given by the Vestry, under certain conditions, to the committee forthe proposed erection of almshouses in 1836, to be by them applied tobuilding purposes. Various charitable subscriptions and donations havebeen added from time to time, until at present the almshouses afford anasylum to about fifty-two single women and eight married couples. Therecipients must be of good character, and must have paid rates in theparish of Marylebone for at least ten years, and never receivedparochial relief. They must be over the age of sixty years. They musthave a small weekly sum of their own or guaranteed by a friend. Theyreceive shelter and free firing; the single inmates receive in addition7s. A week, and the married couples 10s. 6d. The corner houses, in whichthe rooms are larger, are occupied by the married couples. The centralbuilding contains the board-room, lined by the names of generous donors. On the staircase is a bust of Count Woronzow, whose name is alsocommemorated in the road which runs on the east side of the houses. 

The parish extends to within about fifty yards of the summit of PrimroseHill on the south side. At this spot three stones, erect, standingtogether, mark the point where the three boroughs of Hampstead, St. Pancras, and Marylebone meet. Not far below is a covered reservoir. Thisspot was formerly known as Barrow Hill, a name supposed to be derivedfrom burials which anciently took place here. St. Stephen the Martyr'sChurch stands just within the parish boundaries of Marylebone. It is apretty little Gothic church with a square battlemented tower andtriple-gabled east end. It was built in 1849, and restored thirty yearsago. The interior of the church is not equal to the exterior. All theroads lying to the north-west are in uniform style, with comfortablemodern villa houses. 

When the Manor of Tyburn was let to Edward Forset, King James reservedMarylebone Park for the Crown, and it remained in the same keeping until1646. In that year King Charles I. Granted it to two faithful adherents, Sir G. Strode and J. Wandesford, in payment for arms and ammunitionwhich they had supplied to him. In the time of the Commonwealth the parkwas seized and was sold on behalf of the opposite cause, the proceedsbeing devoted to the payment of one of Cromwell's regiments of dragoons. At the Restoration it was restored to its former holders, who retainedit until the debt due to them was discharged. The park was then let tovarious leaseholders, the last of whom was the Duke of Portland, whoselease ended in 1811, when the land reverted to the Crown. 

The ground was laid out by Nash in 1812, and was named Regent's Park inhonour of the then Regent (George IV. ), for whom it was proposed tobuild a palace in the centre of the park, in the spot now occupied bythe Botanical Gardens. 

Regent Street was designed to form a continuous line between the Palaceand Carlton House, near St. James's Park. Nash built all the terraces inthe park except Cornwall Terrace, which was the work of Decimus Burton. By a clause in the lease the lessees of the houses in these terraceshave to repaint the exteriors in August every fourth year. The broadwalk and adjacent flower-beds were laid out and opened to the public in1838. 

The park is about 400 acres in extent. The ornamental water is in shapesomething like the three legs on a Manx halfpenny. A terrible accidenthappened here in 1867, when the ice gave way and forty skaters losttheir lives; since then the pond has been reduced to a uniform depth of4 feet. The water for this is supplied by the ancient Tyburn Brook. 

South Villa was built about 1836, and an observatory was erected here byMr. Bishop; this was frequently used by Dawes and Hinde, who herediscovered many asteroids and variable stars. 

St. Dunstan's Villa was formerly occupied by the Marquis of Hertford, and is of considerable size. It is in the Italian style, and wasdesigned by Decimus Burton, whose name is almost as closely associatedwith the park as Nash's own. The name of St. Dunstan's arose from thetwo gigantic wooden figures of Gog and Magog, which the Marquis broughtfrom St. Dunstan's, Fleet Street, where they had been since 1671. 

A panorama was formerly exhibited in Regent's Park, in a great buildingcalled the Colosseum. This was opened in 1829, and attracted crowds ofpeople. It stood on the east side of Regent's Park near Park Square. 

Regent's Park Baptist College is established in an old house known asHolford House, from its first owner Mr. Holford. 

The building is of great size and stuccoed; within, the central hall, used for prayers, has an ornamental gallery. The domed skylight is ofcoloured glass, and a huge bronze statue of Bunyan, by Sir E. Boehm, stands on the south side. 

The former ballroom, now used for lectures, debates, etc. , is amagnificent room, with richly mounted ceiling and walls decorated withplaster work painted to resemble wood. The dining-room is also of greatsize. The students' studies are at the east and west ends of thebuilding, and the common rooms in the centre. The extreme west wing islet privately, as the whole house is too large for the collegerequirements. 

Regent's Canal was begun in 1812, and was opened August 1, 1820, with aprocession of boats, barges, etc. It is in total length 8 miles 6furlongs, and descends about 84 feet from the beginning to the end. 

In Regent's Park there are various enclosed gardens and grounds--namely, the Zoological Gardens, the Botanical Gardens, and the grounds of theToxophilite Society. The first of these is too well known to need muchdescription. The Zoological Society originated in 1826, and wasincorporated three years later. Sir Humphrey Davy and Sir StamfordRaffles are the two names most closely connected with its foundation. The Gardens were opened in 1828, and contain the finest collection ofanimals in the world. They are open to the public on payment of 1s. Daily and 6d. On Mondays. On Sundays admittance is obtained only by anorder from a Fellow. 

The Botanical Gardens belong to the Botanical Society, incorporated in1839 by a Royal Charter. The Gardens fill nearly the whole of what isknown as the inner circle in Regent's Park, a space of ground comprisingnearly 20 acres in extent, held on a lease from the Crown. These gardensare tastefully laid out, and include a hot-house (covering about 20, 000feet of ground), winter garden, conservatory, special tropical houses, museum and lecture-room, tennis court, and an ornamental piece of water. Entrance is obtained by an order from a Fellow. Exhibitions of plants, flowers, and fruit take place during the spring and summer. The Duke ofTeck is the President. 

The Toxophilite Society was founded by Sir Assheton Lever in 1781. Hehad previously formed a museum of curiosities in Leicester Square on thesite of the present Empire Music Hall. It was in the grounds of thishouse that targets were first shot by the Society. When the museum wassold in 1784 the ground was no longer available. It was in this yearthat an Archers division of the Honourable Artillery Company was formed. In 1791 an archery ground was rented on the east side of Gower Street, on part of which site Torrington Square now stands. In 1805 this groundwas required for building purposes. From this date to 1810 there are noauthentic records of the Society, and from then until 1821 the recordsare intermittent. It is probable the Society shot at Highbury. In 1821Mr. Lord allowed the members to shoot on his cricket ground on paymentof three guineas a day. Mr. Waring, who had been Sir Assheton'scoadjutor in founding the Society, owned ground in Bayswater to the eastof Westbourne Street. He had previously offered this site to theSociety, and his offer was eventually accepted. In 1833 the presentground in Regent's Park was obtained. This is about 6 acres in extentand well laid out. It includes a hall with accommodation for members. 

The shooting season is divided into two parts: one from the firstThursday in April to the last Thursday in July, and the other from thelast Thursday in September to the first Thursday in November. Ladies'days are a feature of the club, and every Thursday between theabove-mentioned dates has some fixture or competition. The only rival tothe Royal Toxophilite Society is the Grand National Archery Society. 

The part of the borough lying to the west of the park has been immenselyaltered by the new railway. In fact, the greater part of the buildingshave been demolished, and the amount of compensation paid todispossessed owners and leaseholders is said to be unprecedented. 

In Blandford Square there is a convent which has survived the generalwreck. It was first established near Queen's Square, Bloomsbury, in1844, and was opened on its present site in 1851. 

The House of Mercy is for servants out of work, who do laundry and otherwork, and so contribute to their own support. There are thirty Sisters, who, besides attending to the home, do much charitable work in teachingand the visitation of the sick. 

Dorset Square was built on the site of the original Lord's CricketGround. It was made by one Thomas Lord at the end of the eighteenthcentury, and, as stated above, in 1814 the present ground wassubstituted, so Dorset Square can claim only a small connection withthe famous game. The streets leading northward from Dorset Square are oflittle interest. In Hill Street is a small Baptist place of worship. InPark Street is St. Cyprian's little church, opened in 1866. 

The last house on the east side of Upper Baker Street bears one of theSociety of Arts memorial tablets to the memory of Mrs. Siddons, wholived here intermittently for many years. She used to give readings fromShakespeare to her friends in this house, and here in 1831 she died. Thehouse is now called "Siddons House Private Hotel. "

In the Marylebone Road, close to the underground station, stands MadameTussaud's famous waxwork exhibition, the delight of children andvisitors from the country. The waxworks were begun in Paris in 1780, andbrought to London in 1802 to the place where the Lyceum Theatre nowstands, and afterwards were removed to Hanover Square rooms. 

On the west side of Park Road are the terraces abutting on Regent'sPark. Some of these terraces show fine design, though in the solid, cumbrous style of the Georgian period. Hanover Terrace was designed byNash, and also Sussex Place, which was named after the Duke of Sussex. The latter is laid out in a semicircle, and is crowned by cupolas andminarets. The houses are very large, and, in spite of fashion havingdeserted the district, can still show a goodly list of inhabitants. 

The district lying to the west of Sussex Grove and Grove Road is thepoorest and most miserable in the borough. In Grove Road is a Home forFemale Orphans, a large gabled building. The girls are received here atsix years of age, and pass on to service when about sixteen. The littlevillage of Lisson Green stood out in the country not far from the greatRoman Road, the present Edgware Road (see p. 58), and it formed thenucleus round which houses and streets sprang up. From the MaryleboneRoad to St. John's Wood Road the streets are poor and squalid, aboundingin low courts and alleys. Several great Board Schools in theneighbourhood of Great James Street rise up prominently, and round aboutthem neat lines of workmen's houses are gradually replacing the wretchedtenements. The district is still miserable, but it has bettered itsnotoriously bad reputation of ten or twenty years ago. 

St. Barnabas Church, near Bell Street, was built by Blomfield, and is ina kind of French Gothic. Christ Church, in Stafford Street, not far off, is surmounted by a cupola, and built in the classical style. It was thework of P. Hardwick in 1825. 

Earl Street is a long, dreary, but fairly respectable thoroughfare. TheMarylebone Theatre or Music Hall is in Church Street. This was openedin 1842 as a penny theatre, and enlarged in 1854. In Church Street thereis also a Baptist chapel. 

Salisbury and Carlisle Streets are indescribably dingy. In the latter isSt. Matthew's Church, which has the (perhaps) unique distinction ofhaving been built for a theatre. It was consecrated in 1853, andrestored forty years later. Close by the church, between the two streetsmentioned above, is the Portman Market. This was opened as a hay-marketin 1830, and the year following was dedicated to general uses. Themarket is still held on Friday every week. Smith speaks of it as bidding"fair to become a formidable rival to Covent Garden, " a prophecy whichhas not been fulfilled. There is another Board School of great sizebetween two miserable little streets on the east, and another a littlefurther north between Grove Road and Capland Street. 

Infant, National, and Catholic Schools lie near North and RichmondStreets. One or two of the houses to the north of the latter have stillretained a certain cottage-like appearance, a memory of the bygonevillage. Lyon's Place, a straggling mews, preserves the name of thebenefactor who left the estate he had bought here to found HarrowSchool; and the names Aberdeen, Cunningham, Northwick, etc. , areassociated with the school. 

The Regent's Canal runs under Aberdeen Place. Emanuel Church, a curiouslittle square building with an Ionic portico, was formerly known asChrist's Chapel. It was largely remodelled in 1891, and seats over 1, 000persons. On the interior walls are several memorial tablets. 

Edgware Road forms the western boundary of the parish. It is a veryancient road. In the 1722 edition of Camden's "Britannia" we read:"Towards the Northern boundary of Middlesex a military way of the Romanscommonly called Watling Street enters this country, coming straightalong from the older Verulam to London over Hampstead Heath; not theroad which now lies through Highgate, for that, as is before observed, was opened only about 400 [marginal note, 300] years ago by permissionof the Bishop of London, but that more ancient way (as appears by theold charters of Edward the Confessor) which ran along near Edgeworth, aplace of no great antiquity. "

The difficulty of accounting for the entrance of the road at thisparticular point has been solved in various ways. It has been suggestedthat a circuit had been made to avoid the great Middlesex forests, but amore likely theory is that it followed this route to avoid the Hampsteadand Highgate hills. Edgware was the name of the first town it passedthrough after the forests of Middlesex. 

We have only to deal with the east side of the road at present. This islined with shops, varying in quality and increasing in size towards theMarble Arch. There are no buildings of importance. The road ends inOxford Street, the ancient Tyburn Road, a name associated with thedireful history of the gallows. 

The Tyburn gallows were originally a huge tripod, subsequently twouprights and a cross beam. The site was frequently changed, so that bothMarylebone and Paddington can claim the dreadful association. Timbs saysthat the gallows were erected on the morning of execution right acrossthe Edgware Road, opposite the house at the corner of Upper BryanstonStreet. This house has iron galleries from which the Sheriffs watchedthe execution, and in it after the ceremony the gallows were deposited. Galleries were erected for spectators as at a gladiatorial show, andspecial prices were charged for special exhibitions. Among the peoplewho suffered at Tyburn, the best known are: Roger de Mortimer, fortreason, 1330; Perkin Warbeck, 1449; the Holy Maid of Kent and herconfederates, 1534; Robert Southwell, the Elizabethan poet, 1595; Mrs. Turner, murderess of Sir T. Overbury, 1615. 

In 1660-61, on the anniversary of Charles I. 's execution, Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were dragged from their graves and hanged atTyburn, after which their heads were cut off and exposed on WestminsterHall, and their bodies buried beneath the gallows. 

Jack Sheppard was hanged here in 1724, and the last person to suffer atTyburn was John Austin, in 1783. The turnpike gate across the road nearthe gallows remained until 1825. It was a double turnpike, with gates onboth the Edgware and Uxbridge Roads. 

The Marylebone Road was at first called the New Road, when it was cut in1757. The Bill for its making had met with strong opposition inParliament from the Duke of Bedford. In consequence of his opposition aclause was introduced prohibiting the erection of any building within 50feet of the road, and the effect of this prohibition is to be seen inthe gardens which front the houses. 

The new road was later subdivided into the Marylebone and Euston Roads. Beginning at the Edgware Road, the first building on the south side toattract attention is St. Mark's Church, designed by Blomfield. Thischurch is of red brick, and is prettily built and surmounted by a highsteeple. The schools form a part of the same building. The consecrationceremony took place on June 29, 1872. A few doors further on are theChristian Union Almshouses, founded in John Street, 1832, and extendedto Marylebone Road in 1868. These are supported by voluntarycontributions, and are for the benefit of old women or married couplesof the parishes of Marylebone, Paddington, or part of St. Pancras. Theinmates receive sundry gratuities, coal and lodging, but the eligiblemust possess not less than 4s. 6d. Per week. 

A neatly built Roman Catholic church with high-pitched roof stands atthe corner of Homer Row. This was built about 1860, and is called theChurch of Our Lady of the Rosary. The northern side of the MaryleboneRoad, for the distance traversed, consists of huge red brick flats inthe most modern style. 

Standing back a little from the road, again on the south side, nearHarcourt Street, is Paddington Chapel, for Congregationalists. 

Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital and Midwifery Training School comessoon after. This was founded in 1752, and was the third of its kind tobe established in London. It was at first situated in Bayswater, andmoved to the present site in 1813. In 1809 the Duke of Sussex waselected president for life, and it was he who induced Queen Charlotte togive the hospital her patronage, and to allow it to be called by hername. The Duke was the guiding spirit of the institution until his deathin 1843. In 1857 the present building was erected on the site of theolder one. 

No. 183 is the Yorkshire Stingo public-house, which preserves the nameof a celebrated tavern and place of entertainment. From here the firstpair of omnibuses in the Metropolis were started on July 4, 1829. Theyran to the Bank and back, and were drawn by three horses abreast. Thereturn fare was a shilling, which included the use of a newspaper. Afair was held at the Yorkshire Stingo on May 1 for many years. Close byare the St. Marylebone Public Baths and Wash-houses, which claim thehonour of having been the first of the kind in the Metropolis. 

The St. Marylebone County Court adjoins. This was erected in 1874-75, when the need for further accommodation than that afforded by the oldCourt House was felt. 

Seymour Street was cut through a nest of slums about 1872-73; it partlyreplaced the old Stingo Lane, which extended from Marylebone Road toCrawford Street, and was a most disreputable thoroughfare. The SamaritanFree Hospital, for diseases peculiar to women, occupies the place of tennumbers, 161 to 171. This is a fine modern building with flutedpilasters running up the frontage to an ornamental pediment. Thememorial stone was laid on July 24, 1889, by the King, then Prince ofWales. The hospital was first established by Dr. Savage in OrchardStreet in 1847. The celebrated engineer James Nasmyth, after whom award is named, left a bequest of £18, 000. There is a well staircase inthe building which separates the hospital into two parts, one devoted tomedical, the other to surgical cases. The benefits of the hospital areextended free to patients from all parts of the world, not even asubscriber's letter being required. The only requisites are that theapplicant must be poor and respectable and a suitable case, then she istaken in directly a vacancy occurs. 

Almost opposite the hospital is the Great Central Hotel, and behind itthe railway-station, in an elaborate style that forms a contrast to someof the dismal termini in London. The Western Ophthalmic Hospital, agloomy-looking stuccoed building, is near at hand. This was founded in1856. 

The small streets leading from the Marylebone Road into York andCrawford Streets are poor in character. In the north of Seymour Place isa small Primitive Methodist chapel, erected in 1875. York Street, inspite of being a little wider, is not much better than its neighbours. In Wyndham Place is the Church of St. Mary's, Bryanston Square, in thestyle of Grecian architecture so much affected in this parish. Thearchitect was R. Smirke. Dibdin, the bibliographer, was the firstincumbent of this church, and the poetess L. E. Landon was married hereJune 7, 1838. 

Bryanston and Montagu Squares are almost duplicates. They are built onground known as Ward's Field, where there was formerly a large pond, which was the cause of many fatal accidents. Near this spot was a littlecluster of cottages called Apple Village. The squares were built aboutthe beginning of the present century. They are lined by large houses ina uniform style, and are as fashionable now as in 1833. The TurkishEmbassy is at No. 1, Bryanston Square, at the south-east corner. 

Horace Street was once known as Cato Street, and was the scene of theinfamous conspiracy which originated with Thistlewood in 1820. Theconspiracy was to murder the Cabinet Ministers, burst open the prisons, set fire to the Metropolis, and organize a revolution. Thistlewood andhis fellow-conspirators were caught in a hay-loft in this street, wherethey used to hold their meetings, and the five of them, including theringleader, suffered the extreme penalty of the law, while the rest weretransported. It is now a poor and squalid thoroughfare, occupied bygeneral shops, and reached only by a covered entry at each end. 

In Nutford Place is St. Luke's Church, built in the Early English stylein 1854. It stands on the site of a cholera hospital, which was not usedduring the great epidemic of 1849, as there was not a single case inthe parish. The church was built in memory of this great deliverance. 

The Marylebone Presbyterian church stands between Upper George Streetand Little Queen Street. 

Upper Berkeley Street contains a Jewish Synagogue, built in 1870 forJewish dissenters. Brunswick Chapel was built in 1684 by Evelyn Coswayfor Lady Berkeley. 

In Bryanston Street there is a synagogue which was built for the Spanishand Portuguese Jews resident at the West End. This has been recentlysuperseded by a much larger building in Lauderdale Road, SutherlandAvenue. Quebec Chapel was built in 1788, and is now called the Church ofthe Annunciation. It has numbered among its incumbents Dr. Alford andDr. Goulburn, later Deans of Canterbury and Norwich respectively, andDr. Magee. The number of chapels of every denomination thus shown tocluster in this district is curious. 

Great Cumberland Place is fashionable still. This was formerly GreatCumberland Street, and was called after the Duke whose name isassociated with Culloden. It leads us out nearly opposite to the MarbleArch. 

OXFORD STREET. --Lysons says the north side of the street was completedin 1729, and then called Oxford Street. But against this statementthere is the fact that a stone built into a house at the corner ofRathbone Place was dated "Rathbone Place in Oxford Street, 1718. "Pennant remembers Oxford Street "a deep hollow road and full of sloughs, with here and there a ragged house, the lurking place of cut-throats. "

Its chief association will always be that of the many dismal processionsgoing to Tyburn, when some poor wretch, tied upright in a jolting cartwith his coffin in front of him, was taken in face of all the world fromNewgate to the gallows to "make a public holiday. " The slow grinding ofthe wheels, the jeers and shouts, the scuffling of those who would beforemost not to miss one tremor of agony, must have combined to form atorture felt even by the most hardened criminal. The scene must havebeen more degrading still when the punishment was that the victim shouldbe flogged at the cart-tail. 

The terrible procession is familiar to all from Hogarth's illustration"On the way to Tyburn, " one of the series of Idle and IndustriousApprentices. Here he shows people among the crowd sinking up to theirknees in mire, thus proclaiming the state of the principal highways inthe eighteenth century. 

The present Oxford Street is a wide and handsome thoroughfare, with manysplendid shops lining either side. There are no buildings of any publicimportance. The Princess's Theatre occupies the site of a large bazaarknown as Queen's Bazaar. It has been many times remodelled and rebuilt. The latest rebuilding was in 1879. Its chief claim to notice is thathere took place Kean's famous Shakespearian revivals. 

The part of the borough lying to the north of Oxford Street includesboth the oldest and the most aristocratic quarters. Bryanston andMontagu Squares have been already noticed. 

Portman Square was begun about 1764, but not completed for nearly twentyyears. The centre was at first a shrubbery or wilderness, and here theTurkish Ambassador placed a summer-house or kiosk, where he used to sitwhen the Turkish Embassy was in this Square. Thornbury says he was thenoccupying Montagu House, but Smith says the Embassy was in No. 78, andMontagu House is now numbered 22. However, it is possible that thenumbers have been altered. The list of the names of the presentinhabitants reads like a page from the Court Guide. Among the mostimportant are those of the Duke and Duchess of Fife at No. 15, andViscount Portman at Montagu House. 

This house was built for Mrs. Montagu, a celebrated blue-stocking of theeighteenth century. She was born at York in 1720, and came to MontaguHouse in 1781. Here she founded the "Blue-Stocking" Club, and gatheredround her many famous men and women. On May 1 every year she gave afeast to all the chimney-sweeps of London, "so that they might enjoy onehappy day in the year, " an expression hardly appreciated now when thelot of chimney-sweeps is so very different from what it was then. Timbsremarks of the house: "Here Miss Burney was welcomed and Dr. Johnsongrew tame. " The lease reverted to the Portman family in 1874. 

York Place, Baker Street, and Orchard Street form a long line cuttingstraight through from Marylebone Road to Oxford Street. Baker Street wasnamed after a friend of W. H. Portman's. The combined thoroughfare isuniformly ugly, with stiff, flat houses and some shops. Nos. 8 and 9, York Place were once occupied by Cardinal Wiseman, and later by CardinalManning. They are now Bedford College for Ladies. The Baker StreetBazaar was originally designed for the sale of horses, and behind it, until 1861, was held the Smithfield Cattle Club Show. Later, the bazaarwas the scene of Madame Tussaud's well-known waxworks. 

Portman Chapel, near Adam Street, was built in 1779. Between King andGeorge Streets is Little George Street, in which is a French chapel, built in the reign of George III. By _emigrés_ from the FrenchRevolution. It is a Catholic chapel, and is called "Chapelle de St. Louis de France. "

Orchard Street was named after W. H. Portman, of Orchard Portman inSomerset, who bought the estate of the manor. St. Thomas's Church is theonly object of note in the street; it was built by Hardwick, andconsecrated July 1, 1858. 

In Lower Seymour Street is the Steinway Hall, used for concerts andvarious entertainments. In Nos. 9, 11, 13 is the home of the Sisters ofSt. Vincent de Paul. Two of these houses were formerly occupied by theSamaritan Eye Hospital. A statue of our Lord stands over the centraldoorway, and at His feet an inscription on stone announces that anight-home for girls of good character was originally started here, andwas founded by public subscription in honour of the Sacred Heart ofJesus, and in memory of the pilgrimage made to Paray-le-Monial onSeptember 4, 1873, by the Catholics of Great Britain and Ireland. TheHome is now for destitute children, and is on the same lines as thesister institution at Westminster. The noticeable feature of the Home isthat girls who have been placed out as dressmakers, teachers, etc. , andare earning their own living, may still return every evening. TheSisters are also engaged in many other charitable works. 

Manchester Square was begun in 1776 by the building of Manchester Houseon the north side, but the house was not finished until 1788. It wasbuilt for the Duke of Manchester, but was afterwards the residence ofthe Spanish Ambassador. The Roman Catholic chapel in Spanish Place wasbuilt during the Embassy from designs by Bonomi. It was restored in1832, but has been replaced by a large church in the next street, andits site is now covered by high red-brick flats. The French Embassysucceeded the Spanish, but was withdrawn at the time of the lastRevolution. The Marquis of Hertford afterwards occupied the house, andcalled it after himself. He was succeeded by Sir Richard Wallace, whobuilt immense picture galleries round the garden at the back, enclosingit in a quadrangle. He almost rebuilt the house, and at his death lefthis famous collection of pictures and curios, which were brought herefrom the Bethnal Green Museum, to be eventually bequeathed to thenation, which was done on the death of Lady Wallace. 

North Street leads us into a network of small slums, and Paradise Streetopens into a public recreation ground, laid out with trees and shrubs, where the children play among sombre altar-tombs of a past generation. This was formerly a cemetery, consecrated in 1733, and the Marylebonehistorian, Smith, says that more than 80, 000 persons have been interredin it. Of the names he gives--country gentlemen, baronets, captains, etc. --none are now remembered. George III. 's master-cook and PrincessAmelia's bedchamber woman are of little interest to us of the twentiethcentury. The only men here buried who can claim a faint degree ofposthumous fame are Canning, father of the great statesman, and Bonomithe architect. 

The cemetery on the north side of Paddington Street was consecrated muchlater, in 1772. In this also there is little of present interest. Stephen Riou, one of Nelson's captains, killed in action at Copenhagen, deserves mention, but the others have no public memory. The Mortuary andCoroner's Court stand near the ground, of which the greater part isattached to the workhouse for the benefit of the inmates. 

Paddington Street was built about the time of the consecration of thenorthern graveyard. It is in the centre of a poor district, and hasnothing to commend it. There is a mission-house and an Industrial Homefor Destitute Boys. 

In Northumberland Street stands the workhouse, built about 1775, andadjoining is a solid, well-built stone edifice containing the offices ofthe Guardians of the Poor. At the north-east corner of the street is theCripples' Home and Industrial School for Girls. The inmates are taughtsewing, basket-making, and are educated, clothed, and boarded. 

MARYLEBONE CHURCH. --William de Sancta Maria, who was Bishop of London inthe reign of King John, appropriated the church at Tybourn to the Prioryof St. Lawrence de Blakemore in Essex, but with the reservation of amaintenance for a vicar. In 1525 the Priory suffered the fate of itsfellows, and the King seized the control of Tybourn Church. He passed iton to Wolsey, with license to appropriate it to the Dean and Canons ofChrist Church. At Wolsey's request they granted it to the master andscholars of his old college at Ipswich. When the Cardinal was disgracedthe King resumed the Rectory, and in 1552 granted it to Thomas Reve andGeorge Cotton. Before 1650 it came into the possession of the Forsetfamily, from which time its history has been identified with that of themanor. 

The ancient church stood at what is now the Oxford Street end ofMarylebone Lane, and on account of "its lonely situation" was repeatedlyrobbed and despoiled. In 1400 the inhabitants made a petition to thethen Bishop of London, Robert Braybrooke, to remove it to a moreadvantageous situation. This was granted, and license given them toerect a new church of "stones or flints" at the place where they hadrecently built a chapel. The former church had been dedicated to St. John the Evangelist; the new one was dedicated to St. Mary. The spot onwhich it was built is the same on which the old parish church nowstands, near the top of High Street. 

This church is described as having been a "mean edifice. " It was theoriginal of the church delineated by Hogarth in the marriage of therake, in his famous "Rake's Progress. " This series was published in1735, and the church was then in a ruinous condition. It wassubsequently pulled down and rebuilt (1741) in the form in which it nowstands, with the exception of some slight alterations. In a curiousdiary in the Harleian MSS. Collection it is stated that the Rev. Randolph Ford, curate of Marylebone between 1711 and 1724, on one Sunday"married six couples, then read the whole of the prayers and preached;after that churched six women; in the afternoon read prayers andpreached; christened thirty-two children, six at home, the rest at thefont; buried thirteen corpses, read the distinct service over each ofthem separately--and all this done by nine o'clock at night. "

The only ancient charity connected with the church is a bread bequestleft by Thomas Verley in 1692. He left £50, the interest to be spent inbread, twelve penny loaves to be given to the poor every Sunday. Thisceremony is still observed, but the value of the money has increased, sothat 5s. Worth of bread is distributed every Sunday after service. Themural tablets and monuments on the walls of the church are of someinterest and of great variety. The earliest dates back to 1644. TheViscountess Ossington about ten or twelve years ago had them allrestored at her own expense. 

Among the entries in the register are: J. Michael Rysbach, buriedJanuary 11, 1770; Allan Ramsay, buried August 18, 1784; Rev. CharlesWesley, buried April 5, 1788. Horatia, daughter of Lord Nelson and LadyHamilton, was baptized here, and also Lord Byron. 

About 1770 the necessity for providing increased church accommodationbecame apparent, and it was first proposed to erect the new building onthe north side of Paddington Street, where Mr. Portman offered a site. This land was afterwards used for a burial-ground. The next suggestionwas for a site to the north of Portland Place, but this was alsoabandoned. Finally, the present site to the north of the old church wassecured after many delays. Mr. Thomas Hardwicke (a pupil of Sir W. Chambers) was the architect of the new church, which was designed atfirst to be merely a chapel of ease. The first stone was laid July 5, 1813; when the building was finished it was resolved to make it theparish church, and the old church the chapel of ease. Accordingly, thiswas done by Act of Parliament, and the new church consecrated onFebruary 4, 1817. In this church Robert Browning was married in 1846. 

The building is of great size, seating over 1, 400 people. The front isornamented by an immense portico with six Corinthian columns, and thebuilding is surmounted by a high belfry tower. In 1883-84 a thoroughinvestigation of the church took place. The interior was restored in theItalian Renaissance style, the architect employed being T. Harris. Anapse was added and other alterations made. The necessary funds wereraised by a bazaar held in the Portman Rooms, Baker Street, in which allthe features of the old Marylebone Gardens were reproduced. Close besidethe church are the Central National Schools of St. Marylebone, with ahigher grade Technical School for boys and girls opening on to the HighStreet. The latter building overlooks the graveyard filled with hoarytombstones. 

At the top of High Street, in the Marylebone Road, formerly stood aturnpike, otherwise there is little to remark on in High Street. It hasfallen from its former importance, and is a dingy, uninterestingthoroughfare with poor shops. This, being one of the older streets, follows a tortuous course, in contrast with more modern streetswestward. We are now at the nucleus of the old village of Marylebone. 

Nearly opposite to the old church was the manor-house, and its site canbe fixed accurately; it was at the end of the present Devonshire Placemews, and is incorrectly described in one or two books as having been onthe site of Devonshire mews, which would take it out of the High Streetaltogether. 

This manor-house was originally a royal palace, built by Henry VIII. , doubtless as a kind of hunting-lodge for the adjacent Marylebone Park, as Regent's Park was then called. 

It is said to have been visited by Mary and Elizabeth, and as there areauthentic records of the latter Queen's entertainment of the RussianAmbassador here, the statement is probably true. The house was rebuiltand considerably altered when it became the manor-house at a later date, but after having borne this title for many years it was let as a schoolin 1703, and was pulled down in 1791. 

Another house about 100 yards south of this in the High Street has oftenbeen confounded with it (the manor-house), but this was built by EdwardHarley, second Earl of Oxford, for the reception of the famous Harleiancollection of MSS. , begun by his father and continued by himself. Whenthis collection was purchased by the British Museum the house, known asOxford House, became a boarding-school for girls. The grounds stretchedout at the back, covering the space now occupied by Beaumont Street, Devonshire Place, and part of Devonshire Street. Some time before thehouse became a school these grounds were detached, and a notedbowling-green was established here. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's sharpremark in reference to this, "Some Dukes at Marylebone bowl time away, "has often been quoted. There was close to the green a noted taverncalled the Rose of Normandy. This is supposed to have been built in theearly half of the seventeenth century, and was a well-known resort ofgamesters and idlers. Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, against whom LadyMary's sally was principally directed, is said to have spent much of histime there. He used to give a dinner to his associates at the end of theseason, and his parting toast was, "May as many of us as remain unhangedmeet here again next spring. " In a plan of the Duke of Portland's estatein 1708 two bowling-greens are shown, one in the gardens at the back ofthe manor-house, and one behind the tavern. Both of these bowling-greenswere afterwards incorporated into the famous Marylebone Gardens. 

These Gardens were entered through the tavern above mentioned, and wereopened before 1737; up to that date the public had free access, butafterwards were admitted only on payment of one shilling, for which, however, they received an equivalent of "tea before eight o'clock, " or"half a pint of wine during the concert. " There was a theatre in theGardens, in which balls, concerts, and scenic displays took place. Themusical department was for some time under the direction of Dr. Arne, and the fireworks under Signor Torre. An allegorical play was performedon June 4, 1772, in honour of the King's birthday. 

In 1778 the Gardens were closed, complaints having been made by theinhabitants as to the danger of fire from the fireworks. Pepys mentionsthe Gardens as "a pretty place, " and John Locke records "bowling atMarebone and Putney by persons of quality. " These Gardens formed thescene of McHeath's debauchery in the "Beggars' Opera. " Devonshire Place, built on the site, is a fine wide street. 

Almost opposite to the church, on the north side of the Marylebone Road, is the Charity School for Girls, a large, well-built edifice, whichstands back behind a high brick wall. An inscription on this wallproclaims "St. Marylebone Charity School for the maintenance andeducation of the daughters of poor inhabitants. Supported solely byvoluntary contributions. Founded 1750. Moved to this date 1838. "

In 1750 a few benevolent gentlemen inaugurated the scheme, and at firstits benefits were open to boys and girls alike. In 1754 the DowagerCountess of Oxford, having granted a piece of land in High Street forthe term of 999 years at peppercorn rent, the school house was erected. The numbers of the children varied according to the income. In 1829 itwas considered advisable to devote the charity exclusively to girls, andthe boys were dispersed. In 1838 the present schoolhouse was built onground leased from the Duke of Portland. P. Hardwicke was the architect, and the result is entirely satisfactory. 

The girls enter at ten, or two years earlier if they are paying pupils, and remain till sixteen. They make everything for themselves at theschool excepting hats and boots, and do all their own domestic work, thekitchen and laundry being under the superintendence of a cook andlaundress. Large orders of needlework are executed, but the mornings aredevoted to bookwork. 

They still wear the picturesque dress of the time of the establishmentof the foundation. On Sundays they are dressed in brown frocks withelbow sleeves and mittens, and wear white fichus and aprons and snowyDutch caps, like the children of the Foundling Hospital. The building ison the site of Marylebone Park House, an old house, parts of which thearchitect has incorporated into its successor; a handsome oak floor andmarble mantelpiece of the Queen Anne period are to be seen in theboard-room. At its southern end High Street bifurcates, becoming ThayerStreet and Marylebone Lane. 

In 1839 Charles Dickens came to a large house in Devonshire Terrace, facing York Gate. This was his home for eleven years, during whichappeared "Martin Chuzzlewit, " "Dombey and Son, " "David Copperfield, " andmany minor works. 

Marylebone Lane is a narrow, crooked street on the site of a real lane, which followed the windings of the Tyburn and overhung its left bank. Atthe south end stood the ancient parish church already referred to. Thefact of the churchyard having surrounded the church was proved by thenumber of bones and human remains dug up at the foundation of the CourtHouse. This Court House stands in a wedge-shaped block. It is nowsuperseded by the larger Court House in Marylebone Road. The Vestryoffices were in this block which was originally built in 1729, andrebuilt in 1804. It is a plain brick building, with a clock dial set ina triangular pediment. It adjoins the site of the old Watch House onground where the parish pound stood formerly. A stone let into theadjacent building records "A. D. MDCCXXIX St. Marylebone Watch House, "and is surmounted by a coat of arms. It is curious to reflect that notso very long ago, as men count time in history, the little lonely churchstood here on the brink of a stream and surrounded by fields. Marylebone Lane is now a very poor and squalid district. 

In 1237 one, Gilbert Sandeford, obtained leave to convey water to theCity from the Tyburn, and laid down leaden pipes, the first recordedinstance of their use for this purpose in England. Once a year the Mayorand Corporation visited the head of their conduits, and afterwards helda banquet in the Banqueting House in Stratford Place. "The Lord Mayorand Aldermen and many worshipful persons rode to the conduit heads tosee them, according to the old custom; and then they went and hunted ahare before dinner and killed her, and thence went to dinner at theBanqueting House at the head of the conduit, where a great number werehandsomely entertained by their Chamberlain. After dinner they went tohunt the fox. There was a great cry for a mile, and at length the houndskilled him at the end of St. Giles with a great holloaing and blowing ofhorns at his death, and thence the Lord Mayor with all his company rodethrough London to his place in Lombard Street" (Strype). The BanquetingHouse was demolished in 1737, long after Sir Hugh Myddelton's scheme(1618) for supplying London with water from the New River had renderedthe Marylebone conduits unnecessary. 

Stratford Place is a cul-de-sac opening out of Oxford Street. It wasbuilt about 1774 by Lord Stratford, the Earl of Aldborough, and others. It was Lord Stratford who built Aldborough House in this place, beforewhich General Strode erected a column to commemorate the naval victoriesof England. The column, which was a Corinthian one surmounted by astatue of George III. , fell in 1805, eight years after its erection. Thehouse in Stratford Place was subsequently occupied by the Duke of St. Alban's, Prince Esterhazy, and others. 

Vere Street was called after the Veres, Earls of Oxford. The westerndistrict post-office is situated here, and at the north end is thelittle Church of St. Peter's, formerly called Oxford Chapel. T. Smithsays this was considered one of the most beautiful structures in theMetropolis; taste has altered considerably since those days. It is asmall squat building erected in 1724 by Gibbs. In 1832 it was altered, redecorated internally, and named St. Peter's. 

The marriage of the Duke of Portland with the heiress of the Newcastleand Oxford families took place here in 1734. The Rev. F. D. Maurice wasa former incumbent. 

Henrietta Street was named after Henrietta, heiress of the Duke ofNewcastle; and Welbeck Street, after Welbeck, the Duke of Portland'sseat in Nottinghamshire. It was one of the earliest built afterCavendish Square, and shares in the prevailing medical element of thedistrict. The West End Hospital is on the west side, next door toWelbeck Hall, used by the Plymouth Brethren. At the upper end of thestreet is the Russian Embassy and chapel. 

Wigmore Street is wide and lined by good shops. It was called afterWigmore Castle, the ancient seat of the Harleys, Earls of Oxford. Thiswas one of the first streets to be built after Cavendish Square; it wasburned in 1729, but rebuilt. 

Wimpole and Harley Streets are long, dreary arteries which give theimpression of having been cut out of cardboard. At Nos. 43 to 45 is nowQueen's College, and next door is the Governesses' Home and RegistrationOffice. The College was first established in 1848. It owed its originpartly to the Governesses' Benevolent Institution, and partly to theexertions of the Rev. F. D. Maurice and the Rev. C. G. Nicolay. Thefirst object was to assist governesses to obtain certificates ofefficiency, but this is no longer the primary object. The Collegeoccupies two fine old houses thrown into one; but though the picturesqueceilings and staircases add to its interest, the narrow passages andturnings are inconvenient. The names of Kingsley, Maurice, Trench, ofSterndale Bennett and of Hullah, associated with its early development, are sufficient to give the foundation exceptional interest. 

South of Weymouth Street is a poor, squalid district. In this isWestmorland Street, where stands St. James's Chapel. This was built in1774, and was first called Titchfield Chapel, and subsequently WelbeckChapel, before it gained its present name. It was thoroughly restored in1869-77. Externally, the chapel has no architectural beauty, but insidea richly-coloured Burne-Jones window, placed so low as to give theimpression of an altar-piece, lights up the building. 

Cavendish Square is the nucleus from which all the surrounding streetshave radiated. The ground was laid out in 1717, when the circular gardenin the centre was designed. For a time the name of the Square waveredbetween Oxford and Cavendish, and it was referred to indiscriminately asone or the other; but at length the present name gained favour. Anequestrian statue of the Duke of Cumberland, presented by GeneralStrode, formerly stood in the garden. At the southern end there is abronze statue of Lord George Bentinck by Campbell. James Brydges, Dukeof Chandos, formed a design for building in the Square a princelyresidence, and he took the whole of the north side for a site. He hadamassed a large fortune as Paymaster in Queen Anne's reign, and heintended to purchase all the property between this spot and Edgware, sothat he might ride from town to country over his own domain. But only apart of his palace was ever completed. The two similar buildings stillstanding on each side of Dean's Mews were designed for lodges. One ofthe wings was occupied for a time by Princess Amelia, aunt to GeorgeIII. , and subsequently by the Earl of Hopetown. This has since beendemolished. One of these is now a convent of the nuns of the Holy ChildJesus. 

On the west side of the Square is Portland House, a heavy stone edificeof great size standing back behind a high brick wall. The stables andgrounds connected with it stretch through to Wimpole Street. The housewas first called Bingley, and later Harcourt House. It was designed byInigo Jones for Lord Bingley in 1722-23, and purchased after his deathby the Earl of Harcourt, and when it was bought by the Duke of Portland, it was for a second time renamed. This was the only house standing whenthe Duke of Chandos designed his palace. The ground was then worth 2s. 6d. A square foot. In 1833 a man then living remembered a fox beingkilled in the Square. 

The streets leading from the Square are all of about the same date, andwere built or laid out in the eighteenth century. At No. 24, HollesStreet Lord Byron was born. 

Chandos House in Chandos Street was a part of the original housedesigned by the Duke of Chandos. A long, low, rough, stuccoed building, containing the Medical Society of London, is here also, besides numerousoffices of other societies, mostly medical. 

In Queen Anne Street, No. 23 contains the offices of the Portlandestate. It is a quaintly-built house, quite modern, with a commemorativetablet to Turner, R. A. , who lived here. At No. 72 Fuseli formerly lived. Portland Place was built about 1772, and measures 126 feet in width. Itis one-third of a mile long, and was designed by the brothers Adam. Itwas Nash's fancy to make Regent Street run straight on into PortlandPlace to lead up to a palace to be built for the King in Regent's Park, but this design was subsequently abandoned. The Chinese Embassy is inNo. 49. 

On the site of the Langham Hotel originally stood Foley House, built bythe Duke of Foley. In his lease with the Duke of Portland it wasexpressly stipulated that no other house should be built to block theview northward. Thus, when Portland Place was built, it was made of thepresent enormous width in consequence of this stipulation. Foley Housewas demolished in 1820, and part of the site was bought by Sir JamesLangham, whose name is preserved in the adjacent street. The well-knownarchitect, Nash, was employed by him to build a house, but Sir Jameswas dissatisfied with the construction. It is said that Nash, thenemployed in carrying out Langham Place, made it curve, to spite hisemployer, instead of carrying it on in a continuous line to PortlandPlace, as was at first designed. 

All Souls' Church is also Nash's work. This church was built 1822-24, and is of a curious design with a circular portico surrounding acircular tower surmounted by a spire. The altar-piece is by Westall, R. A. The church was restored in 1876. Dr. Thomson, late Archbishop ofYork, and Bishop Baring of Durham, were among the former incumbents. 

Queen's Hall, close by, is used for concerts and entertainments. 

The London Crystal Palace, erected in 1858, stood formerly on the siteof a great drapery establishment at the north-east corner of RegentCircus. 

Halfway down the part of Regent Street above the Circus is thePolytechnic Young Men's Christian Institute and Day Schools, also thePolytechnic School of Art, founded in 1838, and enlarged ten yearslater. It was originally intended for the exhibition of novelties in theArts and practical Sciences, especially agriculture and other branchesof industry. Exhibitions were held here and lectures and classesestablished, but in 1881 the building was sold, and is now used as aboveindicated. 

Margaret Street was named after Margaret, heiress of the Newcastle andOxford families. In it is All Saints' Church, a decorative buildingwhich has been described as the most beautiful church in the Metropolis. It was built by W. Butterfield, and the first stone was laid by Dr. Pusey on All Saints' Day, November 1, 1850. The whole of the interior iscovered by mural decorations. The frescoes in the chancel were executedby W. Dyce, R. A. The style is Early English, and the spire reaches aheight of 227 feet. 

The church stands on the site of a chapel which is said to have been thecradle of the High Church Movement in the Metropolis. It is curious toread that in the eighteenth century this chapel was an isolatedbuilding, and that a shady lovers' walk led from it to ManchesterSquare, and another walk through the fields to Paddington!

In No. 204, Great Portland Street is the London Throat Hospital. TheJews' Central Synagogue, a large and imposing building in the Byzantinestyle, is just to the north of New Cavendish Street. In Portland Placethere was formerly a well-known tavern, the Jew's Harp, where Onslow, Speaker to the House in George II. 's reign, used to resort incognito. St. Paul's (episcopal) Chapel stands to the north of Langham Street. This was formerly Portland Chapel, and was erected 1766 on the site ofMarylebone Basin, which had for some time formed the reservoir of awater-supply. The chapel was not consecrated until 1831, when itreceived its present name. This name recalls a market begun here in 1721by Edward, Earl of Oxford, but not opened till 1731, owing to theopposition of Lord Craven. The market had a central vane, with date offoundation and the initials of Lord Harley, Earl of Oxford, and hiswife. He obtained a grant "authorizing himself, his lady, and theirheirs to hold a market on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays for thesale of flesh, fish, fowl, herbs, and all other provisions. " It does notseem, however, to have answered his expectations, for the central roomwas afterwards used as a pay-office for Chelsea out-pensioners. On thesite of this Oxford Mansions now stands. 

Titchfield Street was built about the end of the eighteenth century. Loutherbourg, R. A. , lived here, and W. Collins, R. A. , was born in thisstreet in 1787. 

All the rest of this district is very dreary. There are various chapelsand charitable institutions scattered about in the streets; but it seemslikely before long that land in such an advantageous position will berequired for buildings of a better class, which will bring in more rentthan the present ones. 

[Illustration: MARYLEBONE DISTRICT. 

Published by A. & C. Black, London. ]

Wells Street chiefly consists of large manufacturing premises. St. Andrew's Church has been opened out by the demolition of adjoininghouses. It is celebrated for its choir. 

Nollekens the sculptor's studio was at No. 9 in Mortimer Street. TheMiddlesex Hospital stands back from the street, with two wings enclosinga cement courtyard. This hospital was instituted in 1745 for sick andlame patients. It was first situated in Windmill Street, Tottenham CourtRoad, but was removed to Marylebone Fields, as the present site was thencalled in 1755. The site was obtained from Charles Berners on lease forthe term of 999 years, and the first stone of the building was laid bythe Duke of Northumberland. The building of the wings was completed in1775, and they were extended in 1834. Various additions were made to thehospital, and improvements carried out in the interior arrangements, butit was not until 1836 that a charter of incorporation was obtained. 

At the end of the eighteenth century several of the wards not thenrequired were opened for the reception of the French refugees as atemporary shelter. 

And with this we bring our "Circuit Walk" to an end, having foundtherein many things interesting, and not a few curious, even in adistrict usually accounted by no means exceptional in these respects. 

INDEX

Aberdeen Place, 72

Aiken, Miss, 30

Akenside, Mark, 19

Aldborough House, 97

Aldred Road, 37

Alford, Dr. , 80

Alvanley, Lord, 35

Anderson, Mary, 29

Apple Village, 79

Arbuthnot, Dr. , 19, 30

Arne, Dr. , 93

Arundel, Earls of, 57

Atye, Sir Arthur, 40

Austen, Sir John, 58

Austin, John, 75

Avenue Road, 53

Bacon, 52

Baillie, Joanna, 28, 30

Baker Street, 83

Baker Street Bazaar, 83

Banqueting House, 96

Barbauld, Mrs. , 25, 30

Baring, Bishop, 102

Barrow Hill, 63

Bedford College, 83

Belmont House, 23

Belsize Avenue, 46

Belsize Crescent, 46

Belsize Lane, 45

Belsize Manor, 2, 44

Belsize Park Gardens, 46

Berkeleys, 57

Bingley, Lord, 100

Bird in Hand, The, 25

Blandford Square, 69

Blennerhasset, John, 59

Bolton House, 28

Bonomi, 86

Booth, 29

Botanical Gardens, 67

Brabazon, Sir Roger de, 2

Branch Hill, 26, 27

Branch Hill Lodge, 27

Brawne, Fanny, 22

Browning, Robert, 90

Bryanston Square, 79

Bryanston Street, 80

Buckland Crescent, 46

Bull and Bush, The, 9

Burgh House, 19

Burney, Fanny, 17, 19

Burton, Decimus, 65

Butler, Bishop, 23

Buxton, Sir Fowell, 10

Byron, Lord, 27, 89, 100

Caenwood House, 12

Cannon Hall, 15

Capland Street, 72

Carlisle House, 23

Carlisle Street, 72

Cato Street, 79

Cavendish Square, 99

Cemetery, 85

Chalcots, 47, 54

Chalk Farm, 54

Chandos, Duke of, 99

Chandos House, 100

Chapels: Brunswick, 80 French, 83 St. James's, 99 St. John's Wood, 61 Paddington, 76 St. Paul's, 103 Portman, 83 Roman Catholic, 85

Charity, 88

Charles, Mrs. Rundle, 33

Chatham, Earl of, 10

Chicken House, 22

Chinese Embassy, 101

Cholmeley, Sir Roger, 40

Christian Union Almshouses, 75

Christ Church Road, 15

Churches: All Saints', 61, 103 All Souls', 53, 102 Annunciation, 80 St. Barnabas, 71 Christ, 15, 71 St. Cuthbert's, 41 St. Cyprian's, 70 Emanuel, 72 St. John's Wood, 62 St. Luke's, 79 St. Mark's, 61, 75 St. Mary's, 44, 78 St. Mary the Virgin, 53 Marylebone, 87 Marylebone, New, 89 Marylebone Presbyterian, 80 St. Matthew's, 72 Parish, 30 St. Paul's, 53 St. Peter's, 46, 97 St. Saviour's, 47 St. Stephen's, 49 St. Stephen the Martyr's, 63 St. Thomas's, 84 Trinity, 39

Church Lane, 25, 29

Church Row, 30

Church Street, 72

Cibber, Colley, 29

City Conduit Estate, 59

Clarke, Sir Thomas, 27

Clock House, 26

College Road, 47

Colleges: Congregational, 39 New, 39 Westfield, 40

Collins, R. A. , 104

Collins, Wilkie, 10, 52

Colosseum, 66

Conduit Fields, 35

Constable, 20, 27, 30

Constitutional Club, 28

Cornwall Terrace, 65

Court House, 95

Craik, Mrs. , 10

D'Arblay, Madame, 17

Davy, Sir Humphrey, 67

Dawes, 65

De Clyf, Sir William, 58

De Insula, William, 57

De Mortimer, Roger, 74

De Vere, Robert, 57

Devonshire Street, 92

Dibdin, 78

Dickens, 13

Dorset Square, 69

Downshire Hill, 21

Du Maurier, 26

Earl Street, 71

Edgware Road, 73

England's Lane, 47

Erskine House, 11

Erskine, Lord, 30

Esterhazy, Prince, 9, 97

Eton Avenue, 46

Eton Road, 47

Evelina, 17

Eyre Estate, 61

Eyre, Samuel, 59

Fellows Road, 47

Fenton House, 26

Ferns, The, 34

Finchley Road Station, 39

Fitz John's Avenue, 30

Flagstaff, 13

Fleet Road, 52

Foley House, 101

Foote, 9

Forset, Edward, 58

Fortune Green, 36

Fortune Green Lane, 38

Free Library Reading Room, 25

Frognal, 34

Frognal Gardens, 35

Frognal Hall, 35

Frognal Park, 30

Frognal Priory, 35

Frognal Rise, 27

Fuseli, 101

Gainsborough, Earl of, 2, 17

Gainsborough Gardens, 18

Garrick, 9

Gayton Road, 21

Gayton Street, 24

George Street, 83

Godfrey, Sir Edmondbury, 54

Golden Square, 26

Gordon Riots, 12

Goulburn, Dr. , 80

Governesses' Home and Registration Office, 98

Great Central Hotel, 78

Great Central Railway, 60

Great Central Station, 78

Great Cumberland Place, 80

Great James Street, 71

Great Portland Street, 103

Green Man Lane, 15

Grove Road, 71, 72

Grove, The, 20

Hampstead Cemetery, 38

Hampstead Conservatoire of Music, 48

Hampstead Green, 49

Hampstead Ponds, 21

Hampstead Square, 15

Hampstead Public Library, 39

Hanover Terrace, 70

Harcourt, Earl of, 100

Harcourt Street, 76

Harleian Collection, 58, 91

Harley, Edward, 58

Harley Street, 98

Harlowe, Clarissa, 14

Haverstock Hill, 5, 49

Heath, The, 6, 8

Heath, East, 8

Heath Street, 5, 25

Heath, West, 5

Heathfield House, 15

Hendon, 30

Henrietta Street, 97

Hertford House, 85

Hertford, Marquis of, 65, 85

Hickes, Sir Baptist, 2

High Street, 5, 24, 62

Hill Street, 70

Hill, Sir Rowland, 50

Hinde, 65

Hobson, Thomas, 58

Hogarth, 9

Holford House, 66

Holles, John, Duke of Newcastle, 58

Holles Street, 100

Hollybush Hill, 27

Hollybush Tavern, 28

Holy Maid of Kent, 74

Homer Row, 76

Homes: Charity School for Girls, 93 Cripple Girls', 86 Female Orphans', 71 Incurable Children, 60 Industrial, for Destitute Boys, 86 Industrial Home for Girls, 53 Sisters of St. Vincent de Paul, 84 Soldiers' Daughters', 23 St. Vincent's Orphanage, 29

Honourable Artillery Company, 68

Hood, 39

Horace Street, 79

Hospitals: Consumption, 28 Hampstead, 15 Middlesex, 105 North-Western, 49 Queen Charlotte's Lying-in, 76 Samaritan Free, 77 West End, 98 Western Ophthalmic, 78

House of Mercy, 69

Howards, 57

Hunt, Leigh, 8

Irving, Edward, 52

Jack Straw's Castle, 12

Jew's Harp, 103

Johnson, Dr. , 30

Johnson, Mrs. , 19

John Street, 21

Judge's Walk, 26

Kean, 82

Keats, John, 20, 22

Kidderpore Hall, 40

Kilburn, 41

Kilburn Mill, 37

Kilburn Priory, 41

Kilburn Wells, 43

King Street, 83

Kit Kat Club, 14

Landon, L. E. , 78

Langham Hotel, 101

Langham Place, 102

Langhorne, Sir William, 2

Lawn Bank, 22

Lever, Sir Assheton, 68

Linnell, 10

Little George Street, 83

Little Queen Street, 80

Long Room, 17

Lord's Cricket Ground, 59

Loudoun Road, 53

Loutherbourg, R. A. , 104

Lower Seymour Street, 84

Lower Terrace, 27

Lyllestone Manor, 58

Lyon, John, 59

Lyons Place, 72

Macclesfield, Lord Chancellor, 27

Manchester House, 85

Manchester Square, 84

Manor House, 34, 91

Marylebone Gardens, 92

Marylebone Lane, 95

Marylebone Park, 64

Marylebone Road, 70, 75

Marylebone Theatre, 71

Maryon, Mrs. Margaret, 2

Maurice, Rev. F. D. , 97, 98

Meteyard, Eliza, 10

Mill Lane, 36

Montagu House, 27, 82

Montagu, Mrs. , 82

Montagu Square, 79

Mortimer Street, 105

Mount Vernon, 28

Nash, 64, 101

Nasmyth, James, 77

Nevilles, 57

New End, 15

Nightingale, Miss Florence, 35

Nollekens, 105

North End, 9

North Hall, 48

North Street, 72, 85

Northumberland Street, 86

Nutford Place, 79

Oakhill Park, 35

Old Vane House, 23

Onslow, 103

Oppidans Road, 47

Orchardson, R. A. , W. L. , 52

Orchard Street, 83, 84

Oriel Place, 29

Osborne, Sir Sydney Godolphin, 52

Oxford, Earl of, 58

Oxford House, 91

Oxford Market, 104

Oxford Street, 80, 81

Paddington Street, 86

Palgrave, Sir Francis, 52

Paradise Street, 85

Park Road, 51

Park Street, 70

Patmore, Coventry, 10

Pepys, 93

Perceval, Hon. Sir Spencer, 45

Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, 3

Pilgrim Place, 22

Polytechnic, 102

Pope, 14

Portland, Duke of, 97

Portland, Earl of, 58

Portland House, 100

Portland Place, 101

Portman, Chief Justice, 59

Portman Market, 72

Portman Square, 82

Primrose Hill, 53, 63

Primrose Hill Road, 53

Prince Arthur Road, 24

Princess's Theatre, 82

Priory Road, 44

Prospect Walk, 26

Provost Road, 47

Pryors, The, 15

Pump Room, 18, 20

Queen Anne Street, 101

Queen's Bazaar, 82

Queen's College, 98

Queen Elizabeth, 91

Queen's Hall, 102

Quex Road, 44

Racecourse, 13

Raffles, Sir Stamford, 67

'Rake's Progress, ' 88

Ramsay, Allan, 89

Rathbone Place, 81

Regent's Canal, 66, 72

Regent's Park, 64

Regent's Park Baptist College, 66

Regent Street, 102

Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 9

Richardson, 14

Richmond Street, 72

Riou, Stephen, 86

Romney, 27

Rosslyn, Earl of, 27

Rosslyn Hill, 5, 22

Rosslyn House, 36

Russian Embassy, 98

Rysbach, J. Michael, 89

Salisbury Street, 72

Savage, Dr. , 77

Schools: Blind, 48 Field Lane Boys' Industrial, 37

Scott, Sir G. , 27

Seymour Place, 78

Seymour Street, 77

Shepherd's Fields, 35

Sheppard, Jack, 75

Sherlock, Dr. , 30

Shoot-up-Hill, 40

Shoot-up-Hill Lane, 37

Siddons, Mrs. , 27, 70

Sion Chapel, 18

South Villa, 65

Southwell, Robert, 74

Spaniards, The, 11

Squires Mount, 15

St. Alban's, Duke of, 97

Stanfield, Clarkson, 25

Stanfield House, 25

St. Dunstan's Villa, 65

Steele Road, 47

Steele, Sir Richard, 14, 47, 51

Steevens, George, 14

Steinway Hall, 84

Sterne, 9

St. John's Wood Road, 60

St. John's Wood Terrace, 62

St. Marylebone Almshouses, 62

St. Marylebone County Court, 77

St. Marylebone Public Baths and Wash-houses, 77

Stratford Place, 96

Strode, Sir G. , 64

Sussex Grove, 71

Sussex Place, 70

Swiss Cottage, 39

Synagogues: Jewish, 80 Jews' Central, 103 Spanish, 80

Talleyrand, Prince, 52

Teulon, 52

Thayer Street, 95

Thistlewood, 79

Thomson, Dr. , 102

Titchfield Street, 104

Toxophilite Society, 68

Turkish Embassy, 79

Turner, Mrs. , 74

Turner, R. A. , 101

Turnpike, The, 75

Tussaud's Exhibition, Madame, 70

Tyburn Gallows, 74

Tyburn Manor, 57

Tyburn Road, 81

Tyburn, The, 57

Upper Avenue Road, 48

Upper Baker Street, 70

Upper Berkeley Street, 80

Upper Bryanston Street, 74

Upper Flask Tavern, 14

Upper George Street, 80

Upper Terrace, 27

Vale of Health, 8

Vane, Sir Harry, 23

Vere Street, 97

Wallace, Sir Richard, 85

Wandesford, J. , 64

Warbeck, Perkin, 74

Wards Field, 79

Ware, Isaac, 35

Watling Street, 43

Wedderburn, Alexander, 36

Welbeck Hall, 98

Welbeck Street, 97

Weller, Mrs. , 2

Wells and Campden Charities, 33

Wells Street, 104

Wells Tavern, 20

Well Walk, 17

Wentworth House, 22

Wesley, Rev. Charles, 89

West End, 36

West End Hall, 37

West End Lane, 35

Whitestone Pond, 13

Wigmore Street, 98

Wildwoods, 10

Wilkes, 29

Willoughby Road, 25

Wilson, Sir Thomas Maryon, 2, 7

Wilson, Sir Thomas Spencer, 2

Wimpole Street, 98

Winchester Road, 48

Windmill Hill, 28

'Woodlands, ' 36

Woronzow, Count, 62

Wotton, Lord, 3, 59

Wychcomb, 48

Wyndham Place, 78

York House, 86

York Place, 83

Yorkshire Stingo Public House, 77

York Street, 78

Zoological Gardens, 67

THE END

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