BY THE GOLDEN GATE

or

San Francisco, the Queen City of the Pacific Coast; with Scenesand Incidents Characteristic of its Life

By

JOSEPH CAREY, D. D. 

A Member of the American Historical Association

1902

To My Beloved Wife

this volume

is affectionately inscribed. 

PREFACE

This work now offered to the public owes its origin largely to thefollowing circumstance: On the return of the author from Californiaand the city of Mexico, in November, 1901, his friend, the Rev. JohnN. Marvin, President of the _Diocesan Press_, asked him to contributesome articles to the _Diocese of Albany_. From these "sketches" of SanFrancisco this book has taken form. There are chapters in the volumewhich have not appeared in print hitherto, and such portions as havebeen already published have been thoroughly revised. Much of thework has been written from copious notes made in San Francisco, andimpressions received there naturally give a local colouring to it inits composition. 

It is not a history, nor yet is it a guide book; but it is thoughtthat it will be helpful to tourists who visit one of the mostpicturesque and interesting cities in the United States. It furnishesin a convenient form just such information as the intelligenttraveller needs in order to enjoy his walks and rides through thecity. The writer in his quest among books could not find any thingexactly of the character here produced; and therefore he is led togive the results of his observations and studies with the hope thatthe perusal of this volume, sent forth modestly on its errand, willnot prove an unprofitable task. 

THE AUTHOR. 

November 1st, 1902. 

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

WESTWARD

CHAPTER II

VIEWS FROM THE BOAT ON THE BAY

CHAPTER III

SAN FRANCISCO AND THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD

CHAPTER IV

THE STORY OF GOLDEN GATE PARK AND THE CEMETERIES

CHAPTER V

THEN AND NOW, OR EIGHTEEN HUNDRED FORTY-NINE AND NINETEEN HUNDRED ANDONE

CHAPTER VI

FROM STREET NOMENCLATURE TO A CANNON

CHAPTER VII

CHINAMEN OF SAN FRANCISCO--THEIR CALLINGS AND CHARACTERISTICS

CHAPTER VIII

A CHINESE NEWSPAPER, LITTLE FEET, AND AN OPIUM-JOINT

CHAPTER IX

MUSIC, GAMBLING, EATING, THEATRE-GOING

CHAPTER X

THE JOSS-HOUSE, CHINESE IMMIGRATION AND CHINESE THEOLOGY

CHAPTER XI

THE GENERAL CONVENTION OF 1901

CHAPTER XII

THROUGH THE CITY TO THE GOLDEN GATE

CHAPTER I

WESTWARD

Choice of Route--The Ticket--Journey Begun--Pan-American Expositionand President McKinley--The Cattle-Dealer and His Story--Horses--OldFriends--The Father of Waters--Two Noted Cities--Rocky Mountains--ACity Almost a Mile High--The Dean and His Anti-tariff Window--Loveand Revenge--Garden of the Gods--Haunted House--Grand Cañon and RoyalGorge--Arkansas River--In Salt Lake City--A Mormon and His Wives--TheLake--Streets--Tabernacle and Temple--In St. Mark's--Salt LakeTheatre--Impressions--Ogden--Time Sections--Last Spike--PiuteIndians--El Dorado--On the Sierras--A Promised Land. 

The meeting of the General Convention of the Church in San Francisco, in 1901, gave the writer the long-desired opportunity to visit thePacific coast and see California, which since the early discoveries, has been associated with adventure and romance. Who is there indeedwho would not travel towards the setting sun to feast his eyes on aland so famous for its mineral wealth, its fruits and flowers, and itsenchanting scenery from the snowy heights of the Sierras to the watersof the ocean first seen by Balboa in 1513, and navigated successivelyby Magalhaes and Drake, Dampier and Anson?

The question, debated for weeks before setting out on the journey, was, which route of travel will I take? It is hard to choose where allare excellent. I asked myself again and again, which line will affordthe greatest entertainment and be most advantageous in the study ofthe country from a historic standpoint? The Canadian Pacific route, and also the Northern Pacific, with their grand mountainous sceneryand other attractions, had much to commend them; so also other linesof importance like the Santa Fé with its connecting roads; and theonly regret was that one could not travel over them all. But one wayhad to be selected, and the choice at last fell on the Delaware andHudson, the Erie, Rock Island, the Denver and Rio Grande, and theSouthern Pacific roads. This route was deemed most feasible, and onethat would give a special opportunity to pass through cities andplaces famous in the history of the Nation, which otherwise could notbe visited without great expense and consumption of time. It enabledone also to travel through such great States as Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada, as wellas central California. As the return journey had also to be determinedbefore leaving home, the writer, desirous of visiting the coast townsof California south of San Francisco, and as far down as San Diego, the first settlement in California by white men, arranged to takethe Southern Pacific Railway and the direct lines with which itcommunicates. In travelling over the "Sunset Route, " as the SouthernPacific is styled, he would pass across the southern section ofCalifornia from Los Angeles, through Arizona, New Mexico, Texas andLouisiana, the line over which President McKinley travelled when hemade his tour in the spring of 1901. From New Orleans, by taking theLouisville and Nashville Railroad, he would journey through southernMississippi, Tennessee, Kentucky, and so back through Ohio fromCincinnati, and across Pennsylvania into the Empire State, over theErie and the "D. & H. " Railways. By the "Sunset Route, " too, thewriter could avail himself of the privilege of going into the countryof Mexico at Eagle Pass, and so down to the City of Mexico, famouswith the memories of the Montezumas and of Cortez and furnishing alsoa memorable chapter in our own history, when, in September 1847, theheights of Chapultepec were stormed by General Pillow and his bravefollowers. 

The journey from beginning to end was one of delightful experiences, full of pleasure and profit, and without a single accident or mishap. This is largely owing to the excellent service afforded and thecourtesy of the railway officials, who were ready at all times toanswer questions and to promote the comfort of the passengers. Theobliging agent of the "D. & H. " Railway in Saratoga Springs made allthe necessary arrangements for the ticket, with its coupons, whichwas to take me to and fro; and baggage checked in Saratoga was foundpromptly, and in good condition, on my arrival in San Francisco. Howdifferent our system, in this respect, from that of the English andContinental and Oriental railways! Luggage in those far off countriesis a source of constant care, and in Continental Europe and Asiaticlands a heavy item of expense. The old world might learn in severalparticulars from our efficient American railway system, which hasfor its prime object facility of travel. The ticket was an object ofinterest from its length, with its privileges of stopping over atimportant towns; and strangely, as I travelled down the Pacific coast, with new coupons added, it seemed to grow instead of diminishing. Onecould not but smile at times at its appearance, and the wonder of morethan one conductor on the trains was excited as it was unfolded, andit streamed out like the tail of a kite. It was most generous inits proportions as the railway companies were liberal in theirconcessions. 

It was on September the 23rd, 1901, a bright Monday morning, whenI stepped on the "D. & H. " for Albany, thence proceeding from theCapital City to Binghamton, where I made connection with the ErieRailway. Travelling on the train with me as far as Albany were Mr. W. Edgar Woolley, proprietor of the Grand Union Hotel, Saratoga, and Mrs. James Amory Moore, of Saratoga and New York city, whose hearty wishthat I might have a prosperous journey was prophetic. The countrytraversed from Saratoga to Binghamton by the "D. & H. " Railway affordsmany beautiful views of hill and valley, and, besides Albany withits long and memorable history and magnificent public buildings andchurches, including St. Peter's and All Saints' Cathedral, there areplaces of note to be seen, such as Howe's Cave and Sharon Springs. Bythis branch of the "D. & H" system, Cooperstown, rendered famous byJames Fenimore Cooper in his works, is reached. On alighting fromthe train at Binghamton I was greeted by my old friends, Col. ArthurMacArthur, the genial and accomplished editor of the _Troy Budget_, and that witty soul, Rev. Cornelius L. Twing, Rector of CalvaryChurch, Brooklyn, N. Y. , who had come here for the purpose of attendingthe Annual Conclave of the Grand Commandery of the State of New York. At Buffalo I had sufficient time, before taking the through sleepingcar "Sweden, " on the Erie Railway, to Chicago, to visit thePan-American Exposition grounds. The scene, at night, as I approached, was very impressive. The buildings, illuminated with electricityfurnished by the power-house at Niagara's thundering cataract, lookedlike palaces of gold. The flood of light was a brilliant yellow. Themain avenue was broad and attractive. The tower, with the fountainsand cascade, appealed wonderfully to the imagination. Machinery, Agricultural, and the Electrical buildings, had an air of grandeur. Music Hall, where the members of Weber's Orchestra from Cincinnatiwere giving a concert before an audience of three hundred persons, hada melancholy interest for me. It was here, only a short time before, that President McKinley, at a public reception, was stricken down bythe hand of an assassin; and the exact spot was pointed out to me by apoliceman. In that late hour of the evening, as I stood there rapt incontemplation over the tragic scene which deprived a nation of one ofthe wisest and best of rulers, I seemed to hear his voice upliftedas in the moment when he was smitten, pleading earnestly with thehorrified citizens and officers around him, to have mercy on hismurderer, --"Let no one do him harm!" It was Christian, like theProtomartyr; it was the spirit of the Divine Master, Who teaches us topray for our persecutors and enemies! Happy the nation with such anexample before it!

In travelling westward one meets now and then with original andstriking characters. They are interesting, too, and you can learnlessons of practical wisdom from them if you will. They will befriendly and communicative if you encourage them. Answering thisdescription was a Mr. H. W. Coffman, a dealer in Short Horn cattle, whowas travelling from Buffalo on the Erie road to Chicago. He lives atWillow Grove Stock Farm, a hundred miles west of Chicago on the GreatWestern Railway, one mile South of German Valley. Naturally wetalked about cows, and we discussed the different breeds of cattle, especially the Buffalo cows of the present-day Egypt, and the Apis offour thousand years ago, which according to the representations, onthe monuments, was more like the Devon breed than the Buffalo. Thenames which he gave to his cows were somewhat poetic. One, forexample, was named "Gold Bud;" and another, called "Sweet Violet, "owing to her fine build, was sold for $3, 705. As the conversationdrifted, sometimes into things serious, and then into a lighter vein, Mr. Coffman told a story about a man who had three fine calves. One ofthem died, and, when his foreman told him, he said he was sorry, butno doubt it was "all for the best. " "Skin him, " said he, "and sell hishide. " Another one died, and he said the same thing. When the last andthe best died, his wife said to him, "Now the Lord is punishing youfor your meanness!" His reply was, "If the Lord will take it out incalves it is not so bad. " I could not but moralise that the Divinejudgments on us, for our sins, are not as severe as they might be, and that few of us get what we deserve in the way of punishment orchastening. I also met a horse dealer, who said that he shipped somesixty horses every week to a commission merchant in Buffalo. Thelatter made three dollars per head for selling them. They broughtabout $60 a piece. When shipped at New York, by English buyers, forFrance, South Africa, and elsewhere, they cost about $190 a head. Thefarmers of Ohio, Indiana, Iowa, and Wisconsin, are getting rich fromhorse culture and the raising of cattle. He said that fifteen yearsago, the farmers, in many instances, had heavy notes discounted in thebanks. Now they have no such indebtedness. When formerly he entered atown he would go to a bank and find out from the cashier who had notesthere; and then he would go and buy the horses of such men at reducedrates. All is different now. The European demand has helped theAmerican farmer. 

At Akron, Ohio, the energetic and successful Rector of St. Paul'sChurch, the Rev. James H. W. Blake, accompanied by his wife and MissGraham, his parishioner, boarded the train; and I found them mostagreeable travelling companions to San Francisco. In Chicago, in theRock Island Station, I was met by tourist agent Donaldson, in theemploy of the Rock Island Railway Company, and during all the journeyhe was most courteous and helpful. Here also I found my old classmatein the General Theological Seminary, Rev. Dr. Alfred Brittin Baker, Rector of Trinity Church, Princeton, N. J. , Rev. Dr. Henry L. Jones, of Wilkesbarre, Pa. , Rev. Dr. A. S. Woodle, of Altoona, Pa. , the Rev. Henry S. Foster, of Green Bay, Wis. , and the Rev. Wm. B. Thorne, ofMarinette, Wis. , all journeying to San Francisco. It was a pleasure tosee these friends, and to have their delightful companionship. 

Many interesting chapters might be written about this journey; and togive all the incidents by the way and descriptions of places visitedand pen pictures of persons met would detain you, dear reader, toolong, as you are hastening on to the City by the Golden Gate. Somethings, however, we may not omit as we travel over great prairies andcross rivers and plains and mountains and valleys. At Rock Island ourtrain crossed the Mississippi, reaching Davenport by one of the finestrailway bridges in the country; and as the "Father of Waters" sped onin its course to the Gulf of Mexico, it made one think of the Nile andthe long stretches of country through which that ancient river wendsits way; but the teeming populations on the banks of the Mississippihave a more noble destiny than the subjects of the Pharaohs who sleepin the necropolis of Sakkarah and among the hills of Thebes and ininnumerable tombs elsewhere. They have the splendid civilisation ofthe Gospel, and they are a mighty force in the growth and stability ofthis nation, whose mission is worldwide. At Transfer we passed overthe Missouri by a long bridge, and entered Omaha, a city picturesquelysituated, the home of that doughty churchman, Rev. John Williams, andof Chancellor James M. Woolworth, a noble representative of the laityof the Church. Well may this place be called the "Gate City" of theAntelope State. Towards evening we reached Lincoln, the home ofWilliam Jennings Bryan, the Democratic candidate for the presidency in1896, and also four years later. The house where he lives was pointedout to us. It is a modest structure on the outskirts of the city, comporting with the simplicity of the man himself. In the morning wefound ourselves riding over the plains of Colorado. Here are miles andmiles of prairie, with great herds of cattle here and there. Here alsothe eye of the traveller rests on hundreds of miles of snow fences. Atlast we have our first view of the Rocky Mountains, that great rampartrising up from the plains like huge banks of clouds. It was indeed animposing view; and it reminded me of the day when, sailing across thesea from Cyprus, I first saw the mountains of Lebanon. You almost feelas if you are going over a sea on this plain, with the Rocky Mountainsas an immovable wall to curb it in its tempests. One thought greatlyimpressed me in the journey thus far, and this is the wonderfulagricultural resources of our country. We were travelling over but onebelt of the landscape. Its revelations of fertility, of cultivation, of products, of prosperity, of thrifty homes, of contented peoples, made one feel indeed that this is a land of plenty, and that we are anation blessed in no ordinary way. 

The City of Denver is beautiful for situation, with the RockyMountains fifteen miles to the west. As it is on the western border ofthe great plain, you can hardly at first realise what its elevationis. Yet it is 5, 270 feet above the sea, lacking only ten feet of beinga mile above tide water. The atmosphere is clear and crisp, and themountain air exhilarates one in no ordinary degree. Although foundedonly as far back as 1858, it has to-day a population of 134, 000, and it is steadily growing. It has well equipped hotels such as thePalace, the Windsor, the Albany and the St. James. It has also finepublic buildings, flourishing churches and schools, and many beautifulhomes. There is an air of prosperity everywhere. Here among otherplaces which I visited is Wolfe Hall, a boarding and day schoolfor girls, well equipped for its work, with Miss Margaret Kerr, agrand-daughter of the late Rev. Dr. John Brown, of Newburgh, N. Y. , forits principal. I also met the Rev. Dr. H. Martyn Hart, a man of strongpersonality. I found him in St. John's Cathedral, of which he is theDean, and of which he is justly proud. It is a churchly edifice, and it suggests some of the architectural form of Sancta Sophia inConstantinople. Dean Hart showed my companions and me what he callshis anti-tariff window. The window was purchased abroad, and theoriginal tariff was to be ten per cent of the cost price. This wouldbe about $75. The window cost $750. Meanwhile the McKinley tariff billwas passed by Congress, and as the duty was greatly increased he wouldnot pay it. Finally the window was sold at auction by the customs'officials, and Dean Hart bought it for $25. As we rode about the citythe courteous driver, a Mr. Haney, pointed out a beautiful houseembowered in trees, which had a romantic history. A young man ofDenver was engaged to be married to a young woman. She jilted him andmarried another, and while she was on her wedding tour her husbanddied. The house in which she lived was offered for sale at thisjuncture, and the original suitor bought it and turned her out intothe street. He had his revenge, which shows that human nature is thesame the world over. Had he offered her the house to live in, however, it would have been a nobler revenge, "overcoming evil with good. "

It is but a short ride from Denver to Colorado Springs, which is adelightful spot with 21, 000 inhabitants, and here is a magnificenthotel a block or two from the railway station called the New Antlers. The Rev. Dr. H. H. Messenger, of Summit, Mississippi, an apostoliclooking clergyman, with his wife, accompanied us from Denver toColorado Springs, and also to Manitou, at the foot of Pike's Peak andthe mouth of the Ute Pass. From Manitou we drove to the Garden ofthe Gods, comprising about five hundred acres, and went through thismysterious region with its fantastic and wonderful formations, which seem to caricature men and beasts and to mimic architecturalcreations. Here we saw the Scotchman, Punch and Judy, the SiameseTwins, the Lion, the elephant, the seal, the bear, the toad, andnumerous other creatures. We also viewed the balanced rock, at theentrance, and the Gateway Cliffs, at the northeast end of the Garden, and the Cathedral spires. Everything was indeed startling, and aspuzzling as the Sphinx in old Egypt. Nature was certainly in a playfulmood when, with her chisel and mallet, she carved these grotesqueforms out of stones and rocks. 

On the outskirts of Manitou the "Haunted House" was pointed out bythe guide, who said that a man and his wife and their son had beenmurdered here. No one would live in the house now. He asked me if Ibelieved in "Ghosts. " I said I was not afraid of dead men, and that Idid not think they came back to disturb us. He seemed to agree withme, but hastened to say that he "met a clergyman yesterday who saidhe believed in them. " The house in Manitou which, of all others, interested me most, was the pretty vine-covered cottage of Helen HuntJackson, who wrote "Ramona. " It was she, who, with a fine appreciationof nature, gave this wild and secluded spot, with its riddles instone, the suggestive name of "The Garden of the Gods. "

At noon on Friday, October 7th, I boarded the Pullman train atColorado Springs, on the Denver and Rio Grande Railway, for Salt LakeCity. On this train was my old friend the Rev. James W. Ashton, Rectorof St. Stephen's Church, Olean, N. Y. , whom I had not seen for years, and from this hour he was my constant travelling companion for weeksin the California tour, ready for every enterprise and adventure. AtPueblo were some quaint Spanish-looking buildings, and farther on wewere among the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. Our train graduallyascended the heights skirting the bank of the Arkansas River, whichwas tawny and turbid for many a mile. But the Grand Cañon of theArkansas, with its eight miles of granite walls and its Royal Gorgetowering nearly three thousand feet above us! It is rightly named. I cannot undertake to describe it accurately. Here are grand cliffswhich seemingly reach the heavens, and in some places the rocky wallscome so near that they almost touch each other. As you look up, evenin midday, the stars twinkle for you in the azure vault. As the trainsped on, toiling up the pass through the riven hills and crossing abridge fastened in the walls of the gorge and spanning the foamingwaters, you felt as if you were shut up in the mysterious chambers ofthese eternal mountains. It is a stupendous work of the Creator, andman dwarfs into littleness in the presence of the majesty of God heremanifested as when Elijah stood on Horeb's heights. 

It was a pleasant task to study the scenery, wild beyond descriptionat times; and then you would pass upland plains with cattle here andthere, and mining camps. That is Leadville, a mile or so yonder tothe north; and the children who have come down to the station havevaluable specimens of ore in their little baskets, to sell to you fora trifle. Off to the left hand, a little farther on, was a "placermine, " with water pouring out of a conduit, muddy and yellow with"washings. " This emptied itself into the Arkansas River, which, fromthis point down to the foot of the mountains, was as if its bed hadbeen stirred up with all its clay and other deposit. Above thisjunction the waters of the river were clear and sparkling. It is apicture of life, whose stream is pure and sweet until sin enters itand vitiates its current. Miles beyond are snow sheds, and the famousTennessee Pass, 10, 440 feet above the sea level. This is the greatwatershed of the Rocky Mountains, and two drops of water from a cloudfalling here, --the one on the one side and the other on the other sideof the Pass, --are separated forever. One runs to the Atlantic Oceanthrough rivers to the Gulf of Mexico, and the other to the PacificOcean. So there is the parting of the ways in human experience. Thereare the two ways, and the little turns of life determine your eternaldestiny!

Even after a night of travel through the mountains and across theColorado Desert, we still, in the morning, find our train speeding onamid imposing hills, but now we are in Utah. This we entered at UtahLine. At length we cross the Pass of the Wahsatch Mountains at SoldierSummit, 7, 465 feet above the sea, and some thirty miles farther westwe enter the picturesque Utah Valley. At length we see the stream ofthe River Jordan, which is the connecting link between Utah Lake andthe Great Salt Lake, and at last we find ourselves in the city foundedby Brigham Young and his pioneer followers in 1847. There is amonument of the Mormon prophet in Salt Lake City, commemorating thisfounding. Standing on the hill above the present city and looking outon the great valley, with his left hand uplifted, he said: "Here wewill found an empire!" And here to-day in this city, which bears hismarks everywhere, is a population of 54, 000 souls, two-thirds of whomprofess the Mormon faith. 

Here we were met by Bishop Abiel Leonard, D. D. , of Salt Lake, who wasa most gracious host and who welcomed us with all the warmth of hisheart. He had engaged accommodations for us at the Cullen House; andwhen I went to my room, I looked out on a courtyard bounded on oneside by the rear end of a long block of stores. There I saw a wagonwhich had just been driven into the grounds. Two men were on the seat, the driver and another person, and seated on the floor of the wagon, with their backs toward me, were four women. They wore no hats, as theday was balmy, and I noticed that one had flaxen, another brown, and the two others dark hair. Seeing everything here with a Mormoncolouring, I said, "This is a Mormon family. The Mormon farmer hascome to town to give his four wives a holiday. " It reminded me ofsimilar groups which I had seen in old Cairo, on Fridays, when theMohammedan went with his wives in the donkey cart to the Mosque. Andis there not a strong resemblance between Mormon and Mohammedan? TheMormon husband alighted and gently and affectionately took up one ofhis wives and carried her into the adjoining store, then a second, anda third. My interest deepened as I watched the proceeding. I said tomyself--"How devoted these Mormon husbands, if this is a true example, and how trusting the women!" When he took up the fourth wife to carryher in where her companions were, he turned her face toward me, so that I had a good view of her, and then, to my surprise, nay, amazement, I discovered that she had no feet! But quickly it dawnedon my mind, that, instead of real, living Mormon wives, I had beenlooking on waxen figures, models for show windows! Well, are there notmanikins in human life, unreal creatures, who never accomplish morethan the models in the windows, who may be looked at, but who performno noble and lasting deeds?

Our sojourn in Salt Lake City gave ample time to visit the Great SaltLake, eighty miles long and thirty miles wide, with two principalislands, Antelope and Stansbury; to make a complete study of the city, whose streets run at right angles to each other, with one streetstraight as an arrow and twenty miles long, and many of them borderedwith poplar trees which, as has been facetiously said, were "popular"with Brigham Young; to attend the Saturday afternoon recital on thegreat organ, in the Tabernacle, which is oval in shape, and has aroof like a turtle's back, and where some three thousand people wereassembled; to walk around Temple Square and examine the architectureof the Mormon Temple, which is like a great Cathedral, and into whichno one is admitted but the specially initiated and privileged amongthe Latter-day Saints; to visit many buildings famous in Mormonhistory, and especially "Zion's Co-operative Mutual Institute, " which, in its initials has been said wittily to mean, "Zion's ChildrenMultiply Incessantly;" and on Sunday morning to attend the beautifulservice in St. Mark's Church, where Bishop Tuttle, of Missouri, preached a striking sermon from the text "A horse is counted but avain thing to save a man;" and in the evening to participate in thegrand missionary service in Salt Lake Theatre, where the congregationwas led by a choir of sixty voices, and stirring addresses were madeby Bishop Leonard of Salt Lake, Bishop Gailor of Tennessee, BishopJacob, of Newcastle, England, Bishop Dudley, of Kentucky, and BishopTuttle, who was formerly Bishop here, before an audience of fourthousand people, made up, as the Bishop said, of "Methodists, Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Hebrews, Latter-Day Saints andChurchmen. "

What I saw and heard here in Salt Lake City and in other parts of Utahwould make a book of itself, but I may say that the only place inwhich to study Mormonism in all its workings is here in its seat. While polygamy must drop out of the system owing to the laws of theUnited States, the religious elements will not so soon perish. Ithas enough of Christianity in it to give it a certain stability likeMohammedanism; but we believe that the Church of the Living Godwill sooner or later triumph over all forms and teachings which areantagonistic to the Christian Creeds and Apostolic Order. I visited aMormon bookstore, among other places, and I was amazed at the numberof volumes which I found here on the religion of the Latter-DaySaints. In a history of Mormonism, which I opened, was this pregnantsentence--"The pernicious tendency of Luther's doctrine. " Surely hereis something for reflection!

From Salt Lake City to Ogden, the great centre of railway travel, where several lines converge, is but a ride of thirty-six miles. Herethe train, which was very heavy, was divided into two sections, and, after some delay, we went on our journey with hopeful hearts. The SaltLake Valley and the Great Salt Lake, which we had traced for a longdistance, finally disappeared from view. The journey was begun fromOgden on what is known as Pacific time. There are four timesections employed in the United States, adopted for convenience in1883, --Eastern, Central, Mountain, and Pacific. It is Eastern timeuntil you reach 82-1/2 degrees west longitude from Greenwich, Centraltime up to 97-1/2, Mountain time till you arrive at 11-1/2, Pacifictime to 127-1/2, which will take you out into the Pacific Ocean;and there is just one hour's difference between each time section, covering fifteen degrees. So that when it is twelve o'clock, midday, in New York city, it is eleven in Chicago, ten o'clock in Denver, and nine o'clock in San Francisco. You adapt yourself, however, veryreadily to these changes of time, in your hours of sleep and in othermatters. 

One of the places of special interest through which we passed beforeleaving Utah is Promontory. Here the last tie was laid and here thelast spike was driven, on the 10th of May, 1869, when the CentralPacific and the Union Pacific Railways were united and the greatcities of the Atlantic seaboard and San Francisco at the setting sunwere brought into communication with each other by an iron way whichhas promoted our civilisation in a marked degree. A night ride overthe Alkali Plains of Nevada, famous for their sage brush, was anovelty, and in the clear atmosphere they looked like fields of snow. 

At Wadsworth, where our train began to ascend the lower slopes of theSierra Nevada Mountains, were several Piute Indians. They sell beads, blankets, baskets, and other mementoes. A papoose, all done up inswathing bands, aroused no little curiosity, and when some venturesomepassenger with a kodak tried to take a picture of the infant, themother quickly turned away. They think that the kodak is "the evileye. " There was an old squaw here with whom I conversed, who had aremarkable face on account of its wrinkled condition. She said hername was Marie Martile, and at first she said she was one hundredyears old, and later that she was one hundred and fifty. At Reno I sawmore Indians with papooses. The thought, however, that this old raceis passing away like the fading leaf before the "pale face, " issaddening. Soon we arrive in the El Dorado State, we are at last onCalifornia soil, and the train with panting engines climbs the dizzyheights of the Sierras, through beautiful forests, along the slopesof hills, through tunnels, beneath long snow sheds. These sheds are astriking feature, and are, with broken intervals, forty miles long. The scenery is remarkable, entirely different from that of the RockyMountains; and Donner Lake, into whose clear depths we look from loftyheights, recalls the terrible story of hardship, isolation, sufferingand death, here in the winter of 1846 and 1847, when snow-fall onsnow-fall cut the elder Donners and several members of this party offfrom the outside world, and they perished from cold and starvation. Oh, what a tragic, harrowing history it is!

At Summit Station, the loftiest point of the pass over the Sierras, in the path of our railway, engines are changed, and while the trainhalts passengers amuse themselves by making snowballs. Then we beginthe descent along the slopes of the mountains into the great valleysof California. Already we have passed from the region of perpetualsnows to a milder clime. We begin to feel the tempered breezes fromthe Pacific fanning our cheeks. Yes, we are now in the land of asemi-tropical vegetation, a land of beauty and fertility, which inmany respects resembles Palestine; and surely it is a Promised Land, rich in God's good gifts. Blue Cañon and Cape Horn and beautifullandscapes with vineyards and orange groves are passed, and as nightwith its sable pall descends upon us, we rest in peace with a feelingof satisfaction and thankfulness to Him Who has led us safely by theway thus far. When the train halted at Sacramento, I had a midnightview of it, and then we sped on to our destination. Some three weekslater, in company with Rev. Dr. Ashton, I visited the valley west ofSacramento, Suisun and Benicia, that I might not lose the view whichnight had obscured. The Carquinez Straits, with the railway ferryboat"Solano, " the largest of its kind in the world, and the upper view ofthe great Bay of San Francisco, make a deep impression on the mind. I was well repaid for all my pains. But on that first night, as wehastened to our goal, amid landscapes of beauty and fruitfulnesstraversed in the olden days by the feet of pioneers and gold-seekers, it all seemed as if we were in fairyland. Will the dream besubstantial when we enter the City by the Golden Gate?

CHAPTER II

VIEWS FROM THE BOAT ON THE BAY

Arrival at Oakland--"Ticket!"--On the Ferryboat--The City of "LiveOaks"--Mr. Young, a Citizen of Oakland--Distinguished Members ofGeneral Convention--Alameda--Berkeley and Its University--PicturesqueScenery--Yerba Buena, Alcatraz and Angel Islands--San Francisco atLast. 

It was on the morning of Wednesday, October the second, 1901, whenI had my first view of that Queen City of the Pacific coast, SanFrancisco. Our train, fully nine hours late, in our journey from SaltLake City, arrived at its destination on the great Oakland pier ormole at 2:30 A. M. The understanding with the conductor the eveningbefore, as we were descending the Sierra Nevada Mountains, was thatwe would not be disturbed until day break. When the end of our longjourney was reached I was oblivious to the world of matter in midnightslumber; but as soon as the wheels of the sleeping coach had ceased torevolve I was aroused with the cry, "Ticket!" First I thought I wasdreaming, as I had heard the phrase, "Show your tickets, " so often;but the light of "a lantern dimly burning" and a stalwart figurestanding before the curtains of my sleeping berth, soon convincedme that I was in a world of reality. This, I may say, was my onlyexperience of the kind, in all my travelling over the Southern PacificRailway, the Sante Fé, and the Mexican International and MexicanCentral Railways. There was little sleep after the interruption; andwhen the morning came with its interest and novelty I was ready toproceed across the Bay of San Francisco. Our faithful porter, JohnWilliams, whose name is worthy of mention in these pages, as I steppedfrom the Pullman car, said, "Good-bye, Colonel!" He always addressedme as "Colonel. " The porters on all the western roads and on theMexican railways are polite and obliging, and a word of commendationmust be said for them as a class. 

The Rev. Dr. James W. Ashton, of Olean, N. Y. , my fellow-traveller, andI were soon in the ferry house. We ascended a wide staircase and thenfound ourselves in a large waiting room, through whose windows Ilooked out on the Bay of San Francisco for the first time. Off in thedistance, in the morning light, I could catch a glimpse of the GoldenCity of the West. Near by was a departing ferryboat bound for SanFrancisco. Just then a young man, evidently a stranger, accompanied bya young woman, apparently a bride, accosted me and asked the question, "Sir, do you think we can get on from up here?" Looking at thebay-steamer fast receding, I assured him, somewhat pensively, that Ithought we could. In a few moments another steamer appeared in viewand speedily entered the dock. The gates of the ferry house wereopened and we went on board at once. Most of the passengers at thisearly hour were those who had come across the Sierras, but there werea few persons from Oakland going over to their places of business inSan Francisco. Oakland, so named from the abundance of its live-oaks, has been styled the "Brooklyn" of San Francisco. It is largely a placeof residence for business men, and from fifteen to twenty thousandcross the Bay daily in pursuit of their avocations. It is pleasantlysituated on the east side of the Bay, gradually rising up to theterraced hills which skirt it on the east. The streets are regularlylaid out and lined with shade trees of tropical luxuriance as well asthe live-oaks. Pretty lawns, green and well kept, are in front of manyof the houses in the residence part of the city, and here the eye hasa continual feast in gazing on flowers in bloom, fuschias, verbenas, geraniums and roses especially. At a later day I visited Oakland, andfound it just as beautiful and attractive as it looked in the distancefrom the deck of the ferry boat. It has several banks, numerouschurches, five of our own faith, with some twelve hundredcommunicants, also good schools, and some fine business blocks. Trolley cars conduct you through its main streets in all directions. Landing at the Oakland pier, one of the largest in the world, andextending out into the Bay some two miles from the shore, the SouthernPacific Railway will soon carry you to the station within the citylimits. As you wander hither and thither you see on all sides tokensof prosperity. There is an air of refinement about the place, and youfind the atmosphere clear and stimulating. There is not a very markeddifference in the temperature of the climate between summer andwinter. Frosts are unknown. It is no disparagement to San Franciscoto say that Oakland for delicate persons is more desirable. The tradewinds as they blow from the Pacific ocean, and make one robust andhardy in San Francisco, when there is vitality to resist them, aretempered as they blow across the Bay some fourteen miles or more, while the fogs, so noted, as they rush in through the Golden Gate andspeed onward, are greatly modified as they reach the further shore. Asit has such a splendid climate and natural advantages, and enjoys thedistinction of being at the terminus of the great overland railwaysystems, it is constantly attracting to itself population and capital. Ten years ago it had 48, 682 inhabitants; to-day it numbers 66, 960. 

Its people are very hospitable and are glad to welcome the travellerfrom the east to their comfortable homes. On the ferry boat I wasaccosted by a ruddy-faced and genial gentleman, a Mr. Young, aresident of Oakland, who was proceeding to his place of business inSan Francisco. He gave me some valuable information, and pointed outobjects and places of interest. He seemed to be well informed aboutthe General Convention appointed to meet on the day of my arrival, inTrinity church, San Francisco. He spoke with intelligence about itscharacter and purpose, and with enthusiasm concerning its members whomhe had met as they were crossing the Bay. The names of Bishop Doane, of Albany, Bishop Potter, of New York, and Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan, were as household words on his lips, and there was a gleam of delightin his eye as he pictured to us the pleasures and surprises in storefor us during our sojourn in the Capital of the Golden West. 

"That town, " said he, "which you see to the south of Oakland, withits long mole, is Alameda. It is a great place of resort, a kind ofpleasure grove. Alameda in the Spanish language means 'Poplar Avenue. 'Many people go there on excursions and picnic parties from SanFrancisco, and other places along the Bay. It is, as you see, a verypretty spot. In time it will become a part of Oakland. It has to-daya population of over sixteen thousand people. " When I asked him if ithad an Episcopal Church, he said, "Yes. Its name is Christ Church, andthere are in it four hundred communicants. Do you know its rector?He is the Rev. Thomas James Lacey. " Mr. Young, who was a native ofMassachusetts and just as proud of California as he was of his oldhome in the east, turned with considerable elation to Berkeley, the University town. "There, " said he, "to the north of Oakland isBerkeley, with a population of thirteen thousand. It is, as you see, situated at the foot of the San Pablo hills, and is about eleven milesfrom the Market street ferry in San Francisco. To reach it you goby ferry to the Oakland pier and then take the cars on the SouthernPacific road. " As I gazed northward, there, as a right arm of Oakland, was the classic town with its aristocratic name, nestling at the footof the hills in the midst of trees and flowers. It was like a daintypicture with the Bay in the foreground. A nearer view or a visit to itbrings the traveller into line with the Golden Gate, through which hiseye wanders straight out into the Pacific ocean with all its mysteryand grandeur. The University of California was organised by an actof the Legislature in 1868. A law passed then set apart for its work$200, 000, proceeds from the sale of tide lands. To this endowment wasadded the sum of $100, 000, from a "Seminary and Public Building Fund. "There was also applied to the new university another fund of $120, 000, realised from the old college of California, which had been organisedin 1855. Then by an act of Congress appropriating 150, 000 acres ofland for an Agricultural College, which is a part of the equipment ofthe University, it became still richer. It embraces 250 acreswithin the area of its beautiful grounds, and so has ample room forexpansion. It has departments of Letters, Science, Agriculture, Mechanics, Engineering, Chemistry, Mining, Medicine, Dentistry, Pharmacy, Astronomy and Law. The famous Lick Observatory, stationedon Mount Hamilton near San Jose, is a part of the institution. It hasprospered greatly under its present efficient President, Benjamin IdeWheeler, LL. D. ; and it now has three hundred instructors, with overthree thousand students. Tuition is free to all students except in theprofessional departments. It has a splendid library of seventy-threethousand volumes. It will be readily seen that with such aninstitution of learning, and with the Leland Stanford Jr. University, at Palo Alto, the State of California is giving diligent attention tomatters of education. While also there are the various schools andacademies and seminaries of the different denominations, it may besaid that the church is not backward in this respect. St. Margaret'sSchool for girls, and St. Matthew's School for boys, as well as theChurch Divinity School of the Pacific, at San Mateo, where BishopNichols resides, and the Irving Institute for girls, and TrinitySchool in San Francisco, are an evidence of what she is doing forthe welfare of the people intellectually, aside from her spiritualministrations in the dioceses of California and Los Angeles and theMissionary Jurisdiction of Sacramento. Mr. Young was forward tomention the fact that in Berkeley there is the large and influentialparish of Saint Mark with a list of nearly four hundred communicants;and this is a great factor for good in the life of such a uniqueUniversity town. As my eyes turned away from Berkeley, I naturallyrecalled the great Bishop of Cloyne, after whom the place is named;and as I took into view the wider range of the coast lands, and theblue waters of the magnificent Bay, some fifty miles in length, and, on an average, eight miles wide, and reflected on the significancewhich attaches to this favoured region, and the influences whichgo out from this seat of power, and fountain head of riches, Iinstinctively recalled the noble lines which the eighteenth centuryprophet wrote when he mused, "On the Prospect of Planting Arts andLearning in America:"

 "Westward the course of empire takes its way; The four first acts already past, A fifth shall close the drama with the day: Time's noblest offspring is the last. "

East of us, in picturesqueness, as in a panorama spread out, were thecounties of Alameda and Contra Costa, with their receding hills, andMount Diablo, 3, 855 feet in height, lifting up its head proudly. Farther to the south was the rich and beautiful valley of Santa Clara, with its orchards and vineyards. On the west across the Bay were thecounties of San Mateo, and San Francisco, with their teeming life, covering a Peninsula twenty-six miles long, and extending up to theGolden Gate; while off to the north, and bordering on the ocean wasMarin in its grandeur, crowned with Tamalpais, 2, 606 feet above thesea;--and skirting San Pablo Bay was Sonoma with its vine-clad vale. There were the islands of the Bay also, which attracted our attention. Not far from the Oakland pier is Goat Island rising to the height of340 feet out of the waters, and consisting of 300 acres. It was brownon that October morning when I first saw it, but when the rains comewith refreshment in November the islands and all the surroundingcountry are invested with a robe of emerald green, and flowers springup to gladden the eyes. Goat Island was so named because goats whichwere brought in ships from southern ports to San Francisco, for freshmeat, were turned loose here for pasturage for a time; and as thesecreatures multiplied the island took their name. But it formerly borethe more euphonious title, Yerba Buena, which means in Spanish"Good Herbs. " Later in my journeyings to and fro I overheard a ladyinstructing another person as to the proper way in which to pronounceit, and she made sad work of it. She gave the "B" the sound of theletter G. It also had another name, as you may learn from an oldSpanish map of Miguel Costanso, where it is called--Ysla de MalAbrigo, which means that it afforded poor shelter. It is a governmentpossession, as also the other islands, Alcatraz and Angel. Alcatraz, which Costanso styles, White Island, is smaller than Yerba Buena. Inits greatest elevation it is 135 feet above the Bay, and it embracesin its surface about thirty-five acres, about the same area as theHaram Esh-Sherîf, or sacred enclosure of the Temple Hill in Jerusalem, with the Mosque of Omar and the Mosque el-Aksa. On its top is alighthouse, which, on a clear night, sailors can see twelve milesoutside of the Golden Gate. Nature, with her wise forethought, seemsindeed to have formed this island opposite the Golden Gate, farinside, in the Bay, as a sentinel to watch that pass into the Pacific, and to guide the returning voyager after his perilous journeyings tosafe moorings in a land-locked haven. Farther to the north is Ysla delos Angeles, Angel Island, with a varied landscape of hill and plain, comprising some 800 acres of land. 

Here are natural springs of water, and in the early days it was wellwooded with live-oak trees. To the eyes of Drake and other earlynavigators and explorers it must have been a vision of beauty, liftingitself out of the waters. Not many trees are seen here now, however, but you may behold instead in harvest time fields of grain. It isespecially noted for its stone quarries, and out of these were takenthe materials for the fortifications of Alcatraz and Fort Point--aswell as the California bank building. It was my privilege at a laterday, in company with many of the members of the General Conventionto sail over the Bay and around these islands, which one can neverforget. The steamer "Berkeley" was courteously placed at the serviceof the members of the Convention by the officers of the SouthernPacific Railway; and it was indeed a most enjoyable afternoon underclear and balmy skies as we rode along the shores of the Peninsula, and up the eastern side of the Bay, and northward towards San Pablo, and then around Angel Island and Alcatraz strongly fortified, adistance altogether of forty miles. But now on the first morning, veiled partly with clouds, San Francisco rises on the view, that cityof so many memories by the waters of the Pacific, where many a one hasbeen wrecked in body and soul as well as in fortune, while others havegrown rich and have led useful lives. Yes, it is San Francisco atlast! And while it looms upon the view with its varied landscape, itshills and towered buildings, I am reminded of another October morningwhen I first saw Constantinople, when old Stamboul with its SeraglioPoint, and Galata with its tower, and Pera on the heights above, and Yildiz to the east, and Scutari across the Bosphorus, all wererevealed gradually as the mists rolled away. So the Golden City ofthe West is disclosed to view as the shadows disappear and the cloudsbreak and flee away and the morning sun hastening across the loftySierras gilds the homes of the rich and poor alike, and bathes waterand land in beauty. There is another city on the shore of a tidelesssea, and it will be the joyful morning of eternal life, when, earthlyjourneys ended, we walk over its golden streets!

CHAPTER III

SAN FRANCISCO AND THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD

San Francisco--Her Hills--Her Landscapes--Population of DifferentDecades--The Flag on the Plaza in 1846--Yerba Buena its EarliestName--First Englishman and First American to Build Here--The PalaceHotel--The Story of the Discovery of. Gold in 1848--Sutter andMarshall--The News Spread Abroad--Multitudes Flock to the GoldMines--San Francisco in 1849. 

As we stand on the deck of the bay steamer and are fast approachingthe San Francisco ferry-house which looms up before us in dignity, welook out on a great city with a population of 350, 000 souls, and weobserve that it is seated on hills as well as on lowlands. Rome lovedher hills, Corinth had her Acropolis, and Athens, rising out of thePlain of Attica, was not content until she had crowned Mars' Hill withaltars and her Acropolis with her Parthenon. Here in this goldencity of the Pacific the houses are climbing the hills, nay they haveclimbed them already and they vie in stateliness with palaces andcitadels in the old historic places which give picturesqueness to thecoast lands of the Mediterranean. There is indeed in the aspect of SanFrancisco, in her waters and her skies, and all her surroundings, thatwhich recalls to my mind landscapes and scenery of Italy and Greeceand old Syria. Yonder to the northeast of the city is Telegraph Hill, 294 feet high, a spot which in the olden days, that is, as far backonly as 1849, was wooded. Now it is teeming with life, and it looksdown with seeming satisfaction on miles and miles of streets andwarehouses and dwellings of rich and poor. But there are not many poorpeople in this Queen City. In all my wanderings about the city for amonth, I was never accosted by a professional beggar. Everybody couldfind work to do, and all seemed prosperous and happy. Off to thewest, serving as a sentinel, is Russian Hill, 360 feet high. It isa striking feature in the ever-expanding city, and it is a notablelandmark for the San Franciscan. In the southeastern part of the cityis Rincon Hill, 120 feet in height, attracting to itself the interestof that part of the population whose homes are in its shadow. Thereare other hills of lesser importance as to altitude, but over theirtops extend long streets and broad avenues lined with the dwellings ofa contented and thrifty people. The business blocks and hotels, theprinting houses and railway and steamship offices, the stores and artgalleries, the places of amusement and lecture halls, the stores andshops, the homes and the churches, fill all the spaces between thosehills in a compact manner and run around them and stretch beyond them, and at your feet, as you stand on an eminence, is a panorama of lifewhich at once arrests your attention and enchains your mind. It wasall so different fifty or sixty years ago. According to the censusreturns the population of San Francisco in 1850 was 34, 000. In 1860there was a gain of 22, 802. In 1870 there were in the city 149, 473souls; while in 1880 there was a population of 233, 959 including30, 000 Chinese. The census of 1890 gives an increase of 64, 038 duringthe decade, and the last enumeration shows that there has been a gainof 44, 785 in the ten years. If the towns across the bay and northward, as well as San Mateo on the south, which are as much a part of SanFrancisco as Brooklyn and Staten Island are of New York, there wouldbe a population of more than 450, 000. The growth, as will be seen, issteady, and San Francisco offers to such as seek a home within herborders, all the refinements and comforts of life, all that ministersto the intellect and the spiritual side of our nature as well as oursocial tastes and desires. 

There can be no greater contrast imaginable than that between the SanFrancisco of 1846, when Commodore Montgomery, of the United Statessloop of war _Portsmouth_, raised the American flag over it, and thenoble city of to-day. And no one then in the band of marines who stoodon the Plaza as the flag was unfurled to the breeze by the waters ofthe Pacific, in sight of the great bay, could have dreamed of thegolden future which was awaiting California--of the splendour whichwould rest on little Yerba Buena in the lapse of time. Yerba Buena wasthe early name of the settlement. This was applied also, as we havelearned, to Goat Island. The pueblo was then insignificant andapparently with no prospect of expansion or grandeur. There were onlya few houses there, chiefly of adobe construction, clustering aboutthe Plaza. The Presidio, west of the stray hamlet, and the MissionDolores, to the southwest, were all that relieved a dreary landscapebeyond. There were the hills covered with chaparral and the shiftingsands all around, and far to the south, where now are wide streets andgreat blocks of buildings. The ground sloped towards the bay on theeast, and a cove, long since filled in, which bore the name of YerbaBuena, extended up to Montgomery street. The population of the townwas less than a hundred; there was hardly this number in the Presidio, and not more than two hundred people were connected with the MissionDolores. In 1835 Captain William A. Richardson, an Englishman, thefirst foreigner to enter the embryo town, erected a tent for hisresidence; and on July 4th, 1836, the second house was built at thecorner of Clay and Dupont streets. The story runs that the firstAmerican to build a house in San Francisco proper was Daniel Culwer, who also founded Santa Barbara. This pioneer was born in Maryland in1793, and died in California in 1857. He lived long enough to see thegreatness of the city assured. But on that day when he finished hismodest house on the corner of New Montgomery and Market streets, helittle thought that in after years there would spring up, as ifby magic, under the skillful hands of the Lelands, famous in SanFrancisco as in Saratoga in the olden days, the magnificent PalaceHotel, with its royal court, its great dining halls, and its sevenhundred and fifty-five rooms for guests, rivalling in its grandeur andits luxurious appointments the palaces of kings. 

The growth of San Francisco was very rapid after the discovery ofgold. The population immediately leaped into the thousands. Californiawas the goal of the gold-seeker, the El Dorado of his quest. Men insearch of fortune came from all parts of the world to the Golden West. It was on the 19th of January, 1848, that gold was discovered. Thestory reads like a romance. Captain John Augustus Sutter, who was bornin Baden, Germany, February 15th, 1803, after many adventures in NewYork, Missouri, New Mexico, the Sandwich Islands, and Sitka, at lastfound himself in San Francisco. From this spot he crossed the bay andwent up the Sacramento River, where he built a stockade, known asSutter's Fort, and erected a saw mill at a cost of $10, 000, and aflour mill at an outlay of $25, 000. Here in 1847 he was joined byJames Wilson Marshall, born in New Jersey in 1812. Marshall was sentup to the North Fork of the American River, where at Coloma he built asaw mill. This was near the center of El Dorado county, and in a linenortheast from San Francisco. The mill, in the midst of a lumberregion, was finished on January 15th, 1848, and everything was inreadiness for the sawing of timber, which was in great demand in allthe coast towns and brought a high price. The mill-race, when thewater was let into it, was found too shallow, and in order to deepenit Marshall opened the flood gates and allowed a strong, steadyvolume of water to flow through it all night. Nature, aided by humansagacity, having done her work well, the flood gates were closed, andthere in the gravel beneath the shallow stream lay several yellowobjects like pebbles. They aroused curiosity. The miller took one andhammered it on a stone. He found it was gold. He then gave one ofthe "yellow pebbles" to a Mrs. Wimmer, of his camp, to be boiled insaleratus water. She threw it into a kettle of boiling soap, and afterseveral hours it came out bright and shining. It is yellow gold, California gold, there can be no mistake! Next, we see Marshall, allexcitement, hastening to Sutter's Fort, and informing his employer, ina mysterious way, that he has found gold. Sutter goes to the mill thenext day, and Marshall is impatiently waiting for him. More wateris turned on, and the race is ploughed deeper, and more nuggets arebrought to light. It is a day of supreme joy. The excitement is great. Even the waters of the American River seem to "clap their hands" andthe trees of the wood wave their tops in homage and rejoice. At thefoot of the Sierras is the hidden treasure, which will thrill thecivilised world when it hears the tidings with a new joy, which willbring delight beyond measure to thousands of adventurers, which willenrich some beyond their wildest dreams, and which will prove the ruinof many an one, wrecking, alas! both soul and body. Sutler's plan wasto keep the wonderful discovery a secret, but this was impossible. Even the very birds of the air would carry the news afar to the coastin their songs; the waters of mountain streams running down to theSacramento River and on to San Francisco Bay and out to the PacificOcean through the Golden Gate would bear the report north and south toall the cities and towns, to Central and South America, to China andJapan, to Europe and more distant lands; and the wings of the windwould serve as couriers to waft the story across the Sierras and theRocky Mountains and the plains, till the whole world would be startledand gladdened with the cry, Gold is found, gold in California! One ofthe women of Sutler's household told the secret, which was too big tobe kept in hiding, to a teamster, and he, overjoyed, in turn told itto Merchant Smith and Merchant Brannan of the Fort. The "secret" wasout in brief space, and like an eagle with outspread wings, it flewaway into all quarters of the globe. Poor Sutter, strange to say, it ruined him. The gold seekers came from the ends of the earth and"squatted" on his lands, and he spent all the fortune he had amassedin trying to dispossess them. But his efforts were unavailing. Thelaws, loosely administered then, seemed to be against him, and fate, relentless fate, spared him not. Almost all that was left to him inthe end was the ring which he had made out of the lumps of the firstgold found, and on which was inscribed this legend: "The first goldfound in California, January, 1848. " It tells a melancholy as well asa joyous tale, in it are bound up histories and tragedies, in it thehappiness of multitudes, and even the fate of immortal souls! TheCalifornia legislature at length took pity on Sutter, and granted hima pension of $250 per month, on which he lived until he was summoned, at Washington, D. C. , on June 17th, 1880, by the Angel of Death, to aland whose gold mocks us not, and where everyone's "claim" is good, if he be found worthy to pass through the Golden Gate. Marshall, too, died a poor man, August 8th, 1885, having lived on a pension from theState of California, which also has seen fit to honour his memory, asthe discoverer of gold, by erecting a monument to him at Coloma, thescene of the most exciting events in his life. The names of these twomen, however, will endure in the thrilling histories of 1848 and 1849, as long as time lasts--for all unconsciously they set the civilisedworld in motion, gave new impulse to armies of men, spread sails onthe ocean, filled coffers with yellow gold, and added new chapters tothe graphic history of San Francisco and many another city. When thetidings of the discovery of gold reached the outside world thousandson thousands set their faces towards the El Dorado of the Pacificslopes. There were many new Jasons. The Golden Fleece of the sunnyWest was beckoning them on. New Argos were fitted out for the newColchis. The Argonauts of 1849 were willing to brave all dangers. Itis Joaquin Miller who sings--

 "Full were they Of great endeavour. Brave and true As stern Crusader clad in steel, They died afield as it was fit-- Made strong with hope, they dared to do Achievement that a host to-day Would stagger at, stand back and reel, Defeated at the thought of it. "

There were three ways of reaching the gold fields. Men could travelacross the plains in the traditional emigrant wagon. It was a weary, lonely journey, life was endangered among hostile Indians, and happywere those who at last were strong enough to toil in the mines. Alas, too many fell by the way and left their bones to bleach in aridregions. It is the experience of life. We have our object of desire. We often come short of it. Ere we reach the goal we perish and thecoveted prize is forever lost. Not so is it to him who seeks the Goldof New Jerusalem. The Gold of that land is good, and all who will canfind it and enjoy it. 

Another way was by the Isthmus of Panama, and then up the coast insuch a ship as one could find. It was the least toilsome journey andthe shortest, but still attended with hardships. Many fell a prey towasting fevers which burn out one's life, and so never reached thedestined port of San Francisco, through which they would pass to thegold fields. 

The longest way was around Cape Horn. Still there were those who tookit, even if months, five or six, it might be, were consumed in thejourney. The gold they sought would compensate them at last. These toohad to encounter storms, face probable shipwreck or contend with grimdeath. Many who sold all to equip themselves, who turned away fromhome and kindred, for a time they thought, to enrich themselves, whowould surely return to their loved ones with untold treasure, neverfulfilled their desire. Some perished in the voyage, others diedin San Francisco, and were laid to rest till the final day in hercemeteries by the heaving ocean. Such as reached the mines didnot always gain the gold they coveted. There were those who werefortunate, who made a success of life, who realised their day dreams;and some of these returned to the old home, to the waiting parents, to the longing wife and children. Some with their gold settled in SanFrancisco and sent for their kindred. And what happy meetings werethose in the years of gold mining, when ships coming from many lands, from American and foreign ports, brought to the city through theGolden Gate the beloved ones whose dear faces had ever been aninspiration to the toilers in darkest hours! Methinks the meetingsof loved ones parted here, on the shores of the crystal sea, willcompensate for all life's labours and trials. Yes, if we only have thetrue treasures, the true gold of the Golden City. 

In those days of 1848 and 1849 and during 1850 and 1851, SanFrancisco--on which we are now looking, the stately, comely city ofto-day, was a city of tents in a large measure. Ships were pouring outtheir passengers at the Long Wharf. They would tent for a time on theshore, then hurry off to the mines. In those days you could meet inthe streets men of various nationalities. Here were gold seekers fromNew England and old England, from our own Southland and the sunny landof France and Italy, from Germany and Sweden and Norway, from Canadaand other British possessions, from China and Japan. And it was goldwhich brought them all here, the statesman and the soldier, thelabouring man and the child of fortune, sons of adversity and sonsof prosperity, rich and poor, lawyers, doctors, merchants, sailors, scholars, unlettered, --all are here for gold. Such is the SanFrancisco of those early days. It is a romance of reality, of theGolden West!

CHAPTER IV

THE STORY OF GOLDEN GATE PARK AND THE CEMETERIES

St. Andrew's Brotherhood--Patras--The Cross at Megara and theGolden Gate--Portsmouth Square and its Life--Other City Squaresand Parks--Golden Gate Park, its Beauty, Objects and Places ofInterest--Prayer Book Cross--Chance Visitors--Logan the Guide--FirstView of the Pacific Ocean--"Thy Way is in the Sea"--The Cemeteries ofSan Francisco--World-wide Sentiment--Group Around Lone Mountain--Storyof the Graves--Earth's Ministries--Lesson of the Heavens. 

When my companion Ashton and I landed at the Market Street FerryHouse, an imposing structure of two stories, with a wide hall on thesecond floor and offices and bureaus of information on either side, our newfound friend, Mr. Young, bade us a "Good-by" with a heartyhandshake, hoping he might meet us again. Before leaving us, however, he introduced us to a young man a member of the Brotherhood of St. Andrew, who took us to the temporary office of the Society in theFerry House, and gave us necessary directions about the street cars, hotels and churches. We were in a strange city on the western shoreof the Continent, yet, we felt at home at once through the cordialgreeting of the Brotherhood. The St. Andrew's Cross, which our youngguide wore on his coat, was indeed a friendly token. It spoke volumesto the heart; and I was carried back in memory to that early morning, when, having sailed over Ionian Seas, our good ship cast anchor in theBay of Patras, and my feet pressed the soil which had been consecratedby the blood of the Saint, whose cross was now a token of good willand welcome at the ends of the earth. I could not but recall besides amemorable incident in connection with the Saint Andrew's Cross. We hadpassed the Isthmus of Corinth, and our train halted for a space atMegara, a town of six or seven thousand people, where is the bluestblood in all Greece; and as I alighted from my coach on the Athens andPeloponnesus Railway, I saw, some twenty rods away, a Greek Papa orPriest, who made a splendid figure. An impulse came over me to speakto him, and I knew there was one sign which he would recognise andunderstand. It was the Saint Andrew's Cross, which I made by crossingmy arms. He immediately came to me and we conversed briefly as thetime would permit, in the old language of Homer and Plato, which allpatriotic Greeks love. He asked me if I was a Papa, and was pleasedwhen I said, "Yes. " I introduced him to my companions in the coach, and he greeted them warmly; and as the train began to move on we badeeach other farewell. We may never meet again, but the Cross of SaintAndrew was a bond between us, and we felt that we were brethren inone Lord, Saint Andrew's Divine Master and ours. So the sight of thatCross there by the Pacific, with all its history of faith and love andmartyrdom, caused our hearts to beat in unison with our brethren bythe Golden Gate. I thought then it would be a special advantage tostrangers in strange cities, if in some way the Brotherhood couldserve as a Bureau of Information to travellers, who understand themeaning of the Cross. It would not be a matter of large expense afterall if Chapters in large centres would extend greeting to men andwomen who are journeying hither and thither and who often stand inneed of just such services as the Brotherhood could give. In a fewhours after our arrival we were ready for the opening service of theGeneral Convention, in Trinity Church, on Gough street at the cornerof Bush street. 

At intervals when duty would permit we made a study of San Franciscoand its life, rich in scene and incident, and most instructive as wellas attractive. Some of the noticeable features of the city are itsparks and squares. In the northern part or section, Washington andLobos Squares greet you, while Pioneer Park adorns Telegraph Hill, and Portsmouth Square or the Plaza is just east of the famous Chineserestaurant and close by police headquarters. This last was famous inthe early days as the centre of Yerba Buena, and here the Americanflag was raised for the first time when our marines under CommodoreMontgomery took possession of the town. Indeed some of the mostexciting scenes in the early history of San Francisco were witnessedin this locality. Volumes might be written about its Spanish andMexican families, its adobe buildings, its gambling places, its hauntsof vice, its public assemblies, its crowds of men from all lands, itssocial and civic histories. 

But all this is of the past, and it seems like a dream of by-gonedays. When I visited it on two occasions, in company with friends, itwas a quiet place enough; and the casual observer could never havethought or realised that around this romantic spot fortunes made byhard toil of weary months and years had been lost in a few short hoursin the saloon and gambling places for which the vicinity was noted, that the worst passions of the human heart had been exhibited here, and that betimes amid the laughter of the merry throng in midnightrevelry and above the strains of the "harp and viol" one could haveheard the voices of blasphemy and the sharp, loud reports of pistolsin the hands of careless characters, whose deadly bullets had sentmany a poor unfortunate wayfarer or unwary miner from the gold fieldsto his long home. 

If, in your saunterings, you go through the central part of the cityyou will find Lafayette Square, Alta Plaza, Hamilton Square, ColumbiaSquare, and Franklin and Jackson Parks, at varying distances from eachother and affording variety to the tourist. In the south section youwill see Buena Vista Park and Garfield Square, while to the west youhave Hill Park and Golden Gate Park. The Golden Gate Park is nowfamous the world over and vies in beauty and splendour with CentralPark in New York, nay, in some respects surpasses this, in that it hasa magnificent frontage on the Pacific ocean, a long coast view and awide range of sea with the Farallone Islands, about twenty miles offin the foreground of the picture, and visible on a clear day always, and most enchanting in the sunset hour as we gazed on them. The GoldenGate Park dates back only to the year 1870, when the CaliforniaLegislature passed an act providing for the improvement of publicparks in San Francisco. At that time this lonely spot, now so like adream of fairy land, was but a waste, a wide stretch of sand dunesamong which the winds of the ocean played hide and seek. Itsentrances, with a wide avenue in the foreground running north andsouth, are some five miles from the Market Street Ferry. The afternoonthat my friend Ashton and I visited it was clear and balmy. Just as wewere entering the park carriage I was greeted by a young friend fromthe East, whom I had not seen for years; and then, more than threethousand miles away from home, I realised how small our planet isafter all. As we rode along the flowery avenues with green lawnsstretching out on either hand and losing themselves in groups ofstately trees and hedges of shrubs and Monterey Cypress we were filledwith delight. We could see the birds, native and foreign, flying frombranch to branch of trees which grew within their gigantic cages, andoccasionally we heard the notes of some songster. Yonder, too, we sawdeer browsing, and elk and antelope. There also were the buffalo andthe grizzly bear; and apparently all forgot that, shut in as theywere in wide enclosures, they were in captivity. We could not fail toobserve the bright flower-beds on every hand, the pleasant groves, theshady walks, the grottoes of wild design, the woodland retreats, thesylvan bowers. The park, we were told by our communicative driver, John Carter, comprises ten hundred and forty acres of ground. He alsopointed out various places and objects of interest. The Museum, by thewayside, in its Egyptian architecture, is like one of the old templesof the Pharaohs on the banks of the Nile. 

You are carried into the realm of immortal song when you gaze on thebusts of Goethe and Schiller, and your patriotism is stirred afreshas you behold the monument of Francis Scott Key, author of theStar-Spangled Banner. The Muses also have their abode here on thecolonnaded Music Stand or Pavilion erected by Claus Spreckles at acost of $80, 000. Another interesting feature is the Japanese TeaGarden. Then there is the well equipped Observatory on Strawberry Hillfrom which you can look far out to sea, and where star-gazers canstudy celestial scenery as the Heavens declare God's glory. Sevenlakelets give charm to the landscape, but the eye is never weary inlooking on Stone Lake, a mile and a quarter in circuit, beautifulwith its clear waters, its shelving shores, its bays and miniatureheadlands, while on its calm bosom, ducks of rich plumage andAustralian swans are disporting themselves. 

That, however, which attracted our attention most of all was the greatgrey stone cross on the crest of the highest point of the Golden GatePark. This, chiseled after the fashion of the old crosses of lona andlinked with the name of St. Columba, is the monument erected by thelate George W. Childs, of Philadelphia, Pa. , to commemorate the firstuse of the Book of Common Prayer on the Pacific coast, when, in 1579, under Admiral Drake, Chaplain Fletcher read Prayers in this vicinity, either in San Francisco Bay, or a little further north in what iscalled Drake's Bay. But more of this anon. As we walked from thecarriage road, beneath some spreading trees, to get a nearer view ofthe Prayer Book Cross, numerous partridges were moving about, withoutfear, in our pathway; and had we been minded to frighten them ordo them harm we would have been restrained by yonder symbol of ourredemption, which teaches us ever to be tender and humane towards birdand beast and all others of God's helpless creatures. The PrayerBook Cross is seen from afar. It looks down on the city with itsinnumerable homes, on the cemeteries within its shadow, on thePresidio with its tents and munitions of war, on the Golden Gate andon the waters of the Pacific, and it brings a blessing to all with itsmessage of love and peace. It is a guide too, to the sailor comingover the seas from distant lands. As he strains his eyes to catch aglimpse of the coast the Cross stands out in bold relief against theeastern sky, and it tells him that he will find a hospitable welcomeand safe harbourage within the Golden Gate. So it is dear to him afterhis voyage over stormy seas as was of old

 "Sunium's marbled steep"

to the Greek sailor nearing home. 

Near Stone Lake we met the head commissioner of the Park who salutedus with all the easy grace of the Californian; and on the way we hadthe opportunity of receiving a Scotch gentleman and his wife into ourcarriage; and, later, a clergyman who had been wandering about in themidst of sylvan scenes, rode with us to the entrance of the Park, where we bade our new found friends good-bye, each to go his own way, at eventide. 

The third day after our arrival in San Francisco I had a longingto gaze on the Pacific ocean which I had never seen. There wereno laurels for us to win, such as Balboa justly deserved when hediscovered the Pacific and first beheld its wide waters in the year1513; but it was a natural desire to look on its broad expanse and tostand on its shores, along which bold navigators had sailed since thedays of Cabrillo and Drake. Taking a line of cars running out to thePresidio, Ashton and I walked the rest of the way. A young man namedLogan, a cousin of the famous General Logan, who was in the serviceof the government as a mail carrier, but off duty that afternoon, volunteered most courteously to be our guide. He accompanied us formore than a mile and a half of the distance beyond the Presidio, butthen had to return to meet an engagement. We went forward climbing thesteep hills and finally found that we were standing on the heightsabove the immense ocean, in the grounds of the Government Reservation. It was a solemn moment when we for the first time beheld the Pacific, and we were greatly impressed. There the mighty waters, across whichthe ships sail to China and Japan and the Sandwich Islands and thePhilippine Archipelago and the South Seas, lay before our eyes. Thedarkness of the night was coming on, but the sky far off across thewaters, away beyond the Farallone Islands, was tinged with red andgold, the fading glories of the dying day. We could see in the glowof evening the heaving of the sea and the motion of its comparativelycalm surface, in that twilight hour. 

Gathering clouds hung over the horizon and formed the shadows in thepicture. Every picture has light and shade. It is a portrait of life. We stood silently for a time drinking in all the beauty of the scene, well nigh entranced, awed, thrilled betimes; and at last in order togive fitting expression to the thoughts within our hearts, I suggestedthat we should hold a brief service in recognition of His power whoholds the seas in the hollow of His hands, Who had guided our feet insafe paths and byways of the world, often over its troublesome waves. Ashton said an appropriate Collect from the dear old Prayer Book of somany tender and far off memories, while I expressed my feelings in thegrand words of the Psalm--"Thy way is in the sea, and Thy paths in thegreat waters, and Thy footsteps are not known. " We felt God's presencein that hushed hour, we saw in vision the divine Christ walking overthe waters to us!

In our wanderings about the city the sleeping places of the deadnaturally attracted our attention; and where, especially, on Sundayafternoons, the living congregate to mourn over their loved ones, toscatter flowers on their graves, or to while away an hour amid sceneswhich have a melancholy interest and tend to sobriety and remind oneof another land where there is no death for those who pass through theGolden Gate of eternity. Cemeteries have always attracted the livingto their solemn precincts at stated times, anniversaries and fiestas. It is so in all lands, among all peoples no matter what their creed, and in all ages. Jew and Gentile alike, Mohammedan and Christian, byvisiting tomb or grassy mound with some token of their affection, theprayer uttered, the tear shed, the blossoms laid on sacred soil, afterthis manner cherish the memories of the departed. And it is well!Scenes which the traveller may witness in the Campo Santo of Genoa orin the Koimeteria of Athens, on Sundays, in the Mezâristans of Skutarion the Bosphorus and Eyûb on the Golden Horn, on Friday afternoons, and in the Kibroth of old Tiberias by the Sea of Galilee or outside ofthe walls of Jerusalem, on Saturday or in the Cimenterios of MexicoCity on fiestas, all testify to the universality of the deep andtender feelings of reverence and affection which animate the humanheart and make all men as one in thought and sentiment as they standon time's shores and follow the receding forms of their kindred andfriends with wishful eyes bedimmed with tears across the Dark River!

While there is a Burial Place for the soldiers who die for theircountry or in their country's cause, on the grounds of the Presidio, the principal cemeteries of San Francisco seem to cluster aroundLone Mountain in the northwestern part of the city and south of theMilitary Reservation. These are Laurel Hill, Calvary, Masonic and OddFellows. The Jews have their special burying ground between Eighteenthand Twentieth streets, and the old Mission cemetery where some of theearly Indian converts and Franciscan Fathers sleep their last sleep, is close by the Mission Dolores, on the south side. 

The group around Lone Mountain is dominated by a conspicuous cross onthe hill top, which, as a sentinel looks down with a benison on theresting places of the dead, and, in heat and cold, in storm andsunshine, seems to speak to the heart about Him "Who died, and wasburied, and rose again for us. " To this picturesque spot too theChinese have been attracted, and they bury their departed westof Laurel Hill, with all the rites peculiar to the followers ofConfucius. 

But what thrilling histories of men from many lands are entombed inall these tens of thousands of graves, what fond hopes are buriedhere, what withered blossoms of life mingle with this consecrated soilby the waters of the Pacific! Many a one who sought the Golden West inpursuit of fortune found all too soon his goal here with unfulfilleddesire, while anxious friends and relatives beyond the seas and themountains or on the other side of the continent awaited his homecoming for years in vain. Here, indeed, are no rolls of papyrus, nohieroglyphics, as in Egyptian tombs, to tell us the story of thepast, but it is written in the experiences of the gold seekers, it isinterwoven with the life of the city, now the mistress of the greatocean which laves her feet, and it is burned into the memories of manyliving witnesses. 

If yonder grave could tell its tale it would speak to you of amisspent life which might have been a blessing--of midnight revels andmad excesses and Circe's feasts, the ruin of soul and body. And thisgrave could talk to you about one who, far away from home andkindred, had pined and wasted away in his loneliness, and had died ofhomesickness. But while you are touched with the pathetic recital, that grave near by reads you a lesson of patience, of heroism, offaith, of purity of soul and body preserved in the midst of fierytemptations, even while strong men were yielding themselves up to"fleshly lusts which war against the soul. "

The shrubs and trees and flowers on which you gaze, and which aregreen and blossom the year round, now beautify all and mother earthsoftens with her ministries the severities of the past, and sunlitskies bend over the dead, as of old in many lands, and star-bedeckedheavens tell still to the living, as once to those whose bodiesmouldered here, the story of the life beyond, where glory and richesand honour are the heritage of the faithful!

CHAPTER V

THEN AND NOW, OR EIGHTEEN HUNDRED FORTY-NINE AND NINETEEN HUNDRED ANDONE

Triangular Section of San Francisco--Clay Banks, Mud and Ratsin 1849--Streets at That Time--Desperate Characters--GamblingHouses--Thirst for Gold--Saloons and Sirens--The Bella Union--TheLeaven of the Church--Robbers' Dens and Justice in Mining Camps--TheVigilance Committee and What It Did--San Francisco Well GovernedNow--Highway Robbers and the Courts--Chief of Police Wittman and HisMen--A Visit to Police Headquarters--The Cells--A Murderer--A ChineseWoman in Tears--A Hardened Offender. 

The traveller to the City of the Golden Gate, as he approaches it, having crossed the great bay from Oakland, notices that the hundredsof streets which greet his gaze run from east to west, and cross eachother at right angles, except a triangular section of this metropolisof the west. This part of the city may be compared to a great wedgewith the broad end on the bay. It begins at the Market Street Ferryhouse and runs south as far as South Street at the lower end of ChinaBasin. This triangle is bounded on the north by Market Street, whichfollows a line west by southwest, and on the south by Channel andRidley Streets, the latter crossing Market Street at the sharp end ofthe wedge-shaped section. The portion of the city within the triangleembraces in its water-front the Mission, Howard, Folsom, Stewart, Spear, Fremont, and Merrimac Piers, together with Mail and Hay Docks. Here you may see steamships and sailing vessels from all parts ofthe world moored at their piers, while others are riding at anchor alittle way out from the land. The whole scene is at once picturesqueand animated and suggests great activity. We must remember, however, that where now are these massive piers with their richly laden shipsand noble argosies, as far back only as 1849 there were no stabledocks, no properly constructed wharfs, no convenient landing places. Here only were clay banks, which gave no promise of the great futurewith its commercial grandeur, and everything was insecure andunsatisfactory, especially in rainy weather, which began in Novemberand continued with more or less interruption until April. The newcomer, not cautious to secure a sure footing would sometimes sink deepin the soft mud or even disappear in the spongy earth. With the shipstoo came not only the gold-seekers from many lands, but rats also asif they had a right and title to the rising city. These swarmed alongthe primitive wharfs, and at times they would invade the houses andtents of the people and go up on their beds or find a lodging-place invessels and cup-boards. Some of these rodents which followed in thewake of the new civilisation were from China and Japan, while others, gray and black, came in ships from Europe and from American cities onthe Atlantic seaboard. Even wells had to be closed except at the timeof the drawing of water, in order to keep out these pests which madethe life of many a householder well nigh intolerable. 

The streets were few in number then, not more than fifteen or twenty, as the town, at the time of which we are speaking, had only apopulation of about five thousand people. As San Francisco grew, however, under the impetus which the discovery of gold gave to it, thestreets were naturally multiplied; and, to overcome the mire in wetweather and also the sand of the dry season, which made it difficultfor pedestrians to walk hither and thither or for vehicles to moveto and fro, they were planked in due time. Wooden sewers were alsoconstructed on each side of the street to carry off the surface water. A plank road besides ran out to Mission Dolores, the vicinity of whichwas a great resort on Sundays, especially in the days when "bullfighting" was a pastime and the old Spanish and Mexican elements ofthe population had not been eliminated or had not lost their prestige. 

As one went to and fro then and encountered men of all nationalities, it was not an uncommon thing to meet many who had the look ofdesperadoes, whose upper garment was a flannel shirt, while revolverslooked threateningly out of their belts at the passerby. All this ofcourse, was changed after a time, when the days of reform came, asthey always come when the need arises. There is an element in humansociety which acts as a corrective, and wrong is finally dethroned, and right displays her power with a divine force and a vivid sweep asa shaft of lightning from the sky. We need never despair about thetriumph of the good. It is a noble sentiment which Bryant utters in"The Battle Field:"

 "Truth crushed to earth shall rise again: The eternal years of God are hers; But Error, wounded, writhes in pain, And dies among his worshippers. "

And never was there a community or a city where Truth asserted hersway more potently in the midst of evil than in San Francisco in thetrying days of her youth. With the rush from all lands to Californiafor the coveted gold came the lawless and the blood-thirsty. Men inthe gambling houses would sometimes quarrel over the results of thegame or over some "love affair. " Fair Helen and unprincipled, gay, thoughtless Paris were here by the Golden Gate. The old story isconstantly repeating itself since the Homeric days. Duels were foughtbetimes as a consequence, and the issue for one or both of thecombatants was generally fatal. Gambling in those days was, from aworldly stand-point, the most profitable business, that is for theprofessional player or the saloon-keeper. Indeed it was looked uponas quite respectable. It has a strange fascination at all times for acertain class, with whom it becomes a passion as much as love for thewine-cup, and one must be well grounded in principle to resist itsinfluences. Many once noble souls who had been tenderly brought upwere led astray. Away from home and its restraining associations, gambling, drinking, and other sins and vices became their ruin. Incalm moments when alone or under some momentary impulse of goodnessthere would rise before them the vision of God-fearing parents--ofopen Bibles--of hallowed Sundays; but the thirst for gold could not bequenched, the mad race must be run, and to the bitter end, dishonour, death, the grave! Shelley, if he had stood in the midst of thegamblers, staking all, even their souls, for gold, in those Californiadays of wild revelry, could not have expressed himself more appositelythan in his graphic and truthful lines, in Queen Mab:

 "Commerce has set the mark of selfishness; The signet of its all-enslaving power Upon a shining ore, and called it gold: Before whose image bow the vulgar great, The vainly rich, the miserable proud, The mob of peasants, nobles, priests, and kings, And with blind feelings reverence the power That grinds them to the dust of misery. But in the temple of their hireling hearts Gold is a living god, and rules in scorn All earthly things but virtue. "

The saloons fifty years ago were the centres of attraction for theover-wrought miner, the aimless wanderer, the creature of impulse, the child of passion. They were decorated with an eye to brilliantcolours, to gorgeous effect, to all that appeals to the sensuouselement in our nature. They were the best built and most richlyfurnished houses in the San Francisco of that period. The walls wereadorned with costly paintings, and the furniture was in keeping withthis lavish outlay. In each gambling house was a band of music, and askillful player received some $30 per night for his services. Paintedwomen were the presiding geniuses at the wheels of fortune and thesemodern Circes or Sirens played the piano and the harp with all thepassion of their art to drown men's cares and make them forget dutyand principle and honour. The tables of the players of the games werepiled high with yellow gold to serve as a tempting bait. The gameswere chiefly what are called in the nomenclature of the gamblingfraternity. Rouge-et-noir, Monté-faro, and Roulette. The men who lost, whatever their feelings might be, and they were often bitter, as arule disguised their sore disappointment. They would try their luckagain, but this only led them deeper in the mire. Many an one lost aprincely fortune in a night. The gambling houses were located chieflyaround the Plaza or Portsmouth Square, of which we have alreadyspoken. They were filled, as a general thing, all night, with an eagerthrong, especially on Sunday. Indeed everything then had its fullcourse on Sunday. There were various sports; drinking and gambling ranriot. Blasphemous words filled the air. Men swore without the leastthought. But profanity is not alone restricted to a frontier or bordercommunity, where laws and a sense of propriety are wanting. One mayhear it in old and civilised towns, as he walks the streets, andsometimes from the lips of boys. In these saloons people of all agescongregated from youth up to hoary hairs. Here were the Indian and theNegro, the American and the Mexican, the Spaniard and the Frenchman, the Italian, the Dutchman and the German, the Dane and the Russian, the English, the Irish and the Scotchman, the Chinaman and theJapanese. One of the most noted of the saloons was the Bella Union, aMonte Carlo in itself. Woe betide the miner from the mountains withgold who entered it. Here was a richly appointed bar to tempt thedesire for drink, while costly mirrors were arranged in such wise asto reflect the scenes of revelry, and pictures that were worth largesums of money hung on the walls. The silverware too would have donecredit to a royal board. Both the tables and the bar were wellpatronised at all times. 

Naturally with such elements of society, with the mad thirst for gold, with the loose morality which prevailed to a large extent, therewould be great lawlessness. It must be borne in mind however that theChristian Church was at work in those perilous times, which live onlyin memory now, and was gradually leavening the whole lump. There weredevout men and true women in early San Francisco, who, in the midst of"a crooked generation, " kept themselves pure and "unspotted from theworld. " And is it not true that men can hold fast their crown, that noman take it from them, if only they will make use of the grace of God?God has His faithful witnesses in every place, in every age, no matterhow corrupt. There are the "seven thousand" who do not bow the kneelto Baal, there are the faithful "few names" even in Sardis who do notdefile their garments with the world. San Francisco had them in thosedays of special temptation, brave and noble souls who could say withSir Galahad:

 "My strength is as the strength of ten, Because my heart is pure. "

In this strength they rose up and purged the place, even though asdifficult as a labour of Hercules. The men of the Vigilance Committeewill ever live in song and story. Even up in the mountains in the goldmines of El Dorado county and elsewhere the spirit of the men ofSan Francisco was at work in the camps. Robbers were there, boldcharacters, dark-browed men, who would not hesitate to steal, andkill, if need be, in their nefarious work. The miners had their perilsto encounter in these bandits. The robbers had their dens in themountains in lonely places, beside a trail sometimes, and in thedepths of the forests. The dens had generally two rooms on the groundfloor and a loft which was reached by a ladder. If a belated minersought shelter or food here he was given a lodging in the loft. If hedrank with his "host" it would most likely be some liquor that wasdrugged, and in his heavy sleep he was sure to be robbed. In themorning he had no redress, and he might consider himself fortunate ifhe escaped with his life. Sometimes however the robber was broughtto quick justice by the miners. Robbery was not countenanced in thecamps. If one should steal, his fellows would rise up, try him in ahastily convened court, and condemn him to death, and hang him onthe nearest tree. It was a rule that the body should be exposed fortwenty-four hours as a warning to others. All this may seem harsh, butunder the circumstances it was the only way in which justice couldbe dealt out to offenders. The camps were in consequence orderly andsafe. We must not think, because the Vigilance Committees of themining camps and of the city took the administration of law into theirown hands that therefore they were lawless and that their rule wasthat of the mob. No, this was the only way in which peaceable citizenscould be protected from the violence and crimes perpetrated by theturbulent and disorderly and vicious elements of society. In the years1851 and 1852 there was great lawlessness in San Francisco. Bad men, who had served terms in prisons for their misdeeds, and men whowished to disorganise society, who had the spirit of anarchy in theirbreasts, organised themselves into bands for the purpose of stealingand killing, and good citizens stood in mortal fear of them. Buildingswere burned at pleasure, houses were broken open and robberiescommitted, and even murder was resorted to when the wrongdoers foundit necessary in the accomplishment of their hellish purposes. Theofficials of the city were careless in punishing offenders, indeedthey were powerless to do so, and the lawbreakers knew this. It issaid that over a hundred persons were murdered during the periodof six months; and the blood of these victims cried to Heaven forvengeance. To assert the majesty of law and to punish criminals alarge number of the best citizens, who grieved over the evils whichprevailed, organised themselves into the famous Vigilance Committee. The seal which they adopted showed their worthy purpose. In the centrewas the figure of a human eye to denote watchfulness. Above the eyewas the word, Committee, --beneath, Vigilance; then the name, SanFrancisco. Around the edge of the seal ran the legends: "Fiat JustitiaRuat Coelum. No creed; no party; no sectional issues. " While notconstituted exactly like the Court of Areopagus, yet the VigilanceCommittee of San Francisco did for a time exercise authority overlife and death like the Athenian judges on Mars' Hill. The shaft oflightning first fell on an ex-convict who was caught stealing. Eightymembers of the Committee tried and convicted him, and on the samenight he was hanged in Portsmouth Square in view of the saloons. Athrill ran through the whole community, and when, the next morning, the people read the names of the prominent citizens who served onthe Committee, their action made a deep and salutary impression. TheVigilance Committee prosecuted its work till the city was purged ofits evils, and it exercised from time to time its authority until theyear 1856. As a result of its firmness, its promptness in punishingcriminals, and its high-minded aims, the land had rest for twentyyears. A weak administration of justice is an encouragement to wrongdoing. Municipal and state officials can best serve their city andcountry by dealing quick and severe blows at lawlessness; but to beeffective they must be men of integrity, above reproach, and withaljust. To-day San Francisco is one of the most orderly and bestgoverned cities in the United States. During my rambles through itsstreets I went to and fro at all hours without being molested. I nevermet a drunken man or a disorderly person. The city feels the effect ofthe Committee's good work even to this latest hour. It serves as anexample. Justice is dealt out speedily to offenders. There are fewif any technical delays of the law and the criminal rarely escapeswithout punishment. Some examples have occurred recently which showthat the judges of the superior courts are alive to their duty andthat they can perform it when the occasion arises. A man named John H. Wood, a former soldier, was convicted of highway robbery, and he wasspeedily sentenced to imprisonment for life in Folsom Penitentiary. Judge Cook who passed sentence on him took the position that a man whoused a deadly weapon in the commission of his crime should receive thefull penalty of the law. A man who holds a pistol to shoot will takelife, therefore he ought to have a life sentence. Wood, who belongsto a wealthy family in Texas, has a checkered history. He served asa soldier for a time in the Philippine Islands. Here he deserted hispost and committed highway robbery. He was tried by court martial forlarceny and convicted. Then he was brought to San Francisco and putin the military prison on the Island of Alcatraz. He was finallydischarged from the army in disgrace. A few months ago he tried to roba showcase man and held a revolver at his head while he seized a watchand chain. He was immediately arrested by three officers, and a monthafter he was sentenced for life. As showing the depravity of theman he said after receiving sentence: "That is an awful dose, and Ihaven't had my breakfast yet. " Possibly in prison he will reflect uponhis evil life, and be softened, and repent. He might have been a goodcitizen, worthy of his country; but he hardened his heart and sankdeeper and deeper in his degradation. Oh, the hardening of the heart!It was Pharaoh's sin. It is the sin of many an one now. 

Another highway robber, Edward Davis, was sentenced at the same timewith Wood to serve in the State Penitentiary for thirty-three years. He also pointed a pistol to the head of his victim. But thirty-threeyears! He will probably die in prison. It is a life thrown away, oneof God's best gifts. But if stern justice be meted out here in thisworld, what must the unrepenting sinner, who has trampled the divinelaw under foot, expect in the world to come? San Francisco teaches alesson which reaches farther than an earthly tribunal. The judgeon his bench is an image of the Judge who weighs human life in Hisbalances. 

There is of course crime in San Francisco as in all other cities. Indeed crime is universal, whether in the Orient or the Occident. TheChief of Police Wittman accounts for highway robbery, to the extentin which it prevails, from the fact that San Francisco is a garrisoncity. Here are numerous recruits and discharged soldiers, and, as aseaport, it draws to itself the scum and offscourings of all nations, Hindoos, Chinese, Malays, and all other kinds of people. 

The police force is hardly adequate to patrol the entire city. Itconsists only of 589 men all told, and they are fine, manly lookingguardians of the law, always ready to do their duty, always courteousto strangers, answering all questions intelligently. It is claimed, moreover, that the criminal element of the country drifts to SanFrancisco in the winter on account of the climate and also through theattractions of the racetrack. The police also find that the placeswhere poker-games are played are a rendezvous for criminals. In 1887and 1888 there was an outbreak of highway robbery, but the grandjury acted promptly in the matter and the courts soon suppressed it. Property and life therefore are jealously guarded in the City of theGolden Gate, and bad characters who go thither to prey on the publicsoon get their deserts. In this respect then San Francisco is adesirable place in which to live. 

One evening in company with a party of friends, Rev. Dr. Ashton ofClean, N. Y. , Rev. Dr. Reynold Marvin Kirby of Potsdam, N. Y. , Rev. Clarence Ernest Ball of Alexandria, Va. , Rev. Henry Sidney Foster ofGreen Bay, Wis. , the Rev. William Barnaby Thorne of Marinette, Wis. , and Doctor Robert J. Gibson, surgeon in the United States Army, stationed at San Francisco, I visited the police headquarters, situated on the east side of Portsmouth Square. This is a largebuilding of several stories with numerous offices. The chief in hisoffice on the main floor, on the right hand of the entrance, receivedus courteously and assigned to us a detective according to anarrangement previously made with Ashton. In the office were portraitsof police commissioners and the chiefs and others who had beenconnected with the department for many years. Entering an elevator wewere soon on the topmost floor where were the cells in which prisonersjust arrested and waiting for trial were confined. The doors of thecells, all of iron, were opened or closed by moving a lever. It wasnow about 9:30 P. M. , and officers were bringing in such persons as hadbeen arrested for theft, for assault and battery, for drunkenness andother kinds of evil doing. Towards daybreak the cells are pretty wellfilled, but now they were nearly empty. How true His words who knowswhat is in man. "Men love darkness rather than light because theirdeeds are evil!"

One young man who had killed another in a quarrel was pointed out tous. The woman who loved him and who expected to be his wife, and stillhad faith in him, was at his side, with her sister, conversing withhim between her sobs, in a low earnest tone. He seemed greatlyagitated. A detective stood a little way off from the trio. Theevidence was strong against the murderer, and an officer said to usthat there was no chance for him to escape from the penalty of thelaw. In a cell was a young Chinese woman, just brought in, possiblyfor disorderly conduct. She could not have been more than fifteenor sixteen years old. She was pretty and refined in appearance andhandsomely dressed, and she wept as if her heart would break. Not yethardened by sin, and probably imprisoned for the first time, she feltthe shame and degradation of her lot. I could not but feel pity forher, and expressed sorrow for her, though she may not have understoodmy words. At least she could interpret the signs of sympathy in voiceand expression. These are a universal language. Maybe she was moresinned against than sinning, --and that Divine One Who reads all heartsand knows the temptations and snares which beset unwary feet, wouldsay to her--"Go, and sin no more!"

In another cell was an old offender who had a face furrowed with sin. As we looked at her I could see that she regarded our presence as anintrusion. I recalled Dr. Watt's lines:

 "Sinners who grow old in sin Are hardened in their crimes. "

Yet there is an awakening of the conscience at last, and even a prisonhouse with its corrections may be a door of escape from that otherprison of the sinful soul from which no one can go forth, be heculprit or juror, counsellor or judge, until his pardon is pronouncedby Him who can forgive sins. 

CHAPTER VI

FROM STREET NOMENCLATURE TO A CANNON

The Streets of the City--Numbers and Names--Example of Athens--Namesof Men--Names of States and Countries--American Spirit--Flowersand Trees--Market Street--Pleasantries--Mansions of CaliforniaAvenue--Grand Reception--Art in California--Cost of Living in1849--Hotels and Private Houses now--Restaurants--New CityHall--Monumental Group--Scenes and Representations--History of aCannon--Chance Meeting with General Shafter--Mission of the Republic. 

The streets of the city! They are an important feature, and thetraveller naturally observes their direction and studies theircharacter. In the description of New Jerusalem, St. John noted thefact that its street was "pure gold. " The streets of earthly citiescannot vie with the celestial, though the gold of commerce may befound in their warehouses and mansions; but if men were as earnest inseeking after the treasures of Heaven as were the tens of thousandswho flocked to the gold-fields of California in 1849, they wouldsurely win the fortune which awaits them within the Golden Gate of theCity on the banks of the Crystal River. San Francisco has her notedstreets, just as the City of Mexico has her San Francisco promenade, leading from the Alameda to the Plaza de Zocalo; or Rome her famousCorso, the old Via Flaminia, with its shops and its teeming life; orAthens her Hodos Hermou, with its old Byzantine church of Kapnikaraea;or Constantinople her Grande Rue de Pera, with its hotels and theatresand bazaars; or old Damascus, her "street that is called straight, "Suk et-Tawileh, the street of the Long Bazaar, with its Oriental lifeand colouring; or Cairo her picturesque Muski, where you may findillustrations of scenes in the Arabian Nights, and gratify your senseswith

 "Sabean odours from the spicy shore Of Araby the Blest. "

The streets of the city by the Golden Gate have an interestingnomenclature, which well deserves one's study for what it teaches. Some streets in the triangular section of San Francisco, alreadyspoken of, are numbered. These begin west of Fremont street and runup to Thirteenth, being bounded by Market street. Then the numberedstreets take a turn to the left hand and go from Fourteenth toTwenty-Sixth, in the southwestern section of the city, and run duewest. Numbers on the streets of any city are of course a convenience, but such a nomenclature has nothing else to commend it, and lacksimagination and sacrifices bits of history which may be interwovenwith municipal life and show progress from small beginnings andperpetuate pioneers' names and benefactors' memories. Modern Athensin naming her streets has very wisely called them after some of thedemigods, heroes, generals, statesmen, and poets of Greece; andgrateful too for the work of Lord Byron in behalf of her independence, she has honoured him who in immortal song spurred on her sons toarise and cast off the Turkish yoke, with a name on one of herthorough-fares--Hodos Tou Buronos--which the traveller reads withemotion, even as he gazes also with admiration on the beautifulPentelic monument reared to the memory of her benefactor, near theArch of Hadrian, while Athenae is represented as crowning him with thevictorious olive. With feelings and sentiments akin to this the sonsof the Golden West have associated forever with the streets of theirgreat city the names of men who either benefited California or takehigh rank in national life or are otherwise worthy of perpetualcommemoration. Hence we have a Berkeley street, a Buchanan, a Castro, a Fillmore, a Franklin, a Fremont, a Grant, a Hancock, a Harrison, a Hawthorne, and a Humboldt street. Juniper street is a memorial ofFather Junipero Serra, founder of Franciscan Missions. Kepler takesus up to the stars, which shine beautifully over the lofty Sierras, California's eternal rampart; while Lafayette speaks to us offriendship and chivalry, still alive in these matter of fact days. Asyou walk through the streets you see also the name of Kearney, notDennis of "sand-lot" fame, but that of General S. W. Kearney, whosesword aided in placing the star of California in our Nation's Flag;you read too the name of the old Indian chief, Marin, and that ofMontezuma takes you across the Rio Grande and back to the days ofMexican romance and barbaric splendour. Here also Montgomery isremembered, the patriotic commander of the Portsmouth, who gave ordersto his marines to raise the Stars and Stripes, in place of Spanishensigns and the Bear Flag, on the Plaza of Yerba Buena, old SanFrancisco, in 1846. We find also such well known names as Scott, Sherman and Stanford. We have too a St. Francis street and a St. Joaquin street; Sumner, Sutter, Tilden and Webster are rememberedalso. Nearly all the states of the Union speak to us by these watersof the Pacific in the stones of the streets. All the original Thirteenexcept Georgia have been honoured. Possibly this will receiverecognition in the future. It is to be noted, however, that theadjectives are omitted in the Carolinas and New Hampshire. New York isthe exception together with Rhode Island. The other States which havegiven their names to streets are Alabama, Arkansas, California, theDakotas without the qualifying adjective, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, Tennessee, Utah, Vermont, Wisconsin and Wyoming. The natural inference from this is that San Francisco has drawnher population from all parts of the land; so that here you haverepresentatives of our great country, north, south, east and westgathered together. While there are many who delight to call themselvesNative Sons, yet their fathers have sprung from households in NewEngland and in the South and in the Middle States and elsewhere andnew peoples are steadily migrating to the Pacific slopes, notablyto this Queen City by the Golden Gate. In my intercourse with SanFranciscans, this or that worthy citizen would say, with no littlepride, I was born in New York, Boston is my birthplace, I am a nativeof Albany, or Saratoga, or Philadelphia, or Baltimore, or Savannah orNew Orleans. Sometimes one would say to me, I came from the East. Whatpart? The answer would be at times, Chicago, or St. Louis, or Omaha, as the case might be. But one thing was very noticeable, that theywere all loyal Americans. I think it may be truly said that the spiritof patriotism is even stronger in the Pacific States than at the East. You could see the Flag of the Union everywhere, and there was abundantevidence in the life and speech of the people of San Francisco and ofCalifornia generally that they were an integral part of the Republicand as anxious to have it prosperous and great and united as the mostardent American in any other part of the land. 

The cosmopolitan character of San Francisco is further indicated bythe names of foreign countries and places which some of her streetsbear. Here we note in our walks the names of Denmark and Japan, Honduras and Montenegro, Trinidad, Venezuela and Valencia, and alsothe Spanish town De Haro. Certain names also of cities tell us whencepeople have come to the City of the Golden Gate. We find an Albany, anAustin, and a Chattanooga street. There are also streets called Erie, Hartford, Vicksburg and York, San Jose and Santa Clara, while FairOaks speaks of one of the great battlefields of the Civil War. Some ofthe counties of the State have also fixed their names on the streetsas Butte, El Dorado, Mariposa, Napa, Solano and Sonoma. The PotomacRiver has a name here also, while Sierra and Shasta represent themountains. There are names of streets besides which take us among thetrees and shrubs, such as the Cedar, the Locust, the Linden, the Oak, the Walnut, the Willow, the Ivy, the Laurel and the Myrtle. Of flowersthere is a profusion in San Francisco. They bloom on every hand; andwherever there is a bit of ground or lawn in front of a house thereyou will see plants or flowers in blossom. Fuschias attain the heightof ten feet in some places and are magnificent in the colour andbeauty of their flowers. The heliotrope climbs up its support witheagerness and its blossoms vie in hue with the blue skies. You mayalso see the pink flowers of the Malva plant in abundance, the chastemignonette and the Australian pea-vine. The latter is a favourite andclothes the bare walls of fence or house or trellis with a robe ofbeauty which queens might envy. Roses are rich and fragrant, white andpink chiefly, and delight the eye, no matter which way you turn. TheAcacia grows here in San Francisco as if it were native to the soil;and the Monterey Cypress, green and beautiful, makes a handsome hedge, or, when given room and air, it attains to stately proportions. Herealso you will find the Eucalyptus tree in its perfection, stately inform with its ivy-green foliage, and you look upon it with an admiringeye. California may be truly called a land of flowers as well as aland of fruits; and we err not in judgment when we say that closeassociation with these beautiful products of the earth has a refiningand an uplifting influence on the human heart. A man who has love fora flower is brought near to the Lord of the flowers, Who said as Hewalked over the meadows of Palestine--"Consider the lilies of thefield, how they grow. " So they have their sweet message of love andgentleness and peace for all, yes, these "stars of the earth, " as thepoet calls them. Such thoughts come to you as you gaze on the richgardens of San Francisco and note their wealth of bright blossoms, brightening man's life and filling his soul with poetry and sentimentand longing for the beautiful and for the good. 

As we walk through the city we note that it is rapidly extendingitself towards the south and the slopes of the Pacific, and new homesare constantly appearing in its suburbs, even climbing up the hills tothe west. Market street, broad and straight, is San Francisco's mainartery of business activity, and the cable cars which run throughit are so numerous that a person who undertakes to cross this greatavenue, especially during the busy hours of the day, must be carefullest he be run over. It reminds one of Broadway, New York, in thisrespect. All streets of the city converge towards Market street. Crowds of people throng it, and this is true, particularly duringSaturday night, when the labours of the week are ended and thepopulace seek recreation. There are many large and attractivebuildings on this street, as for example "The Call Building, " "TheChronicle Building, " "The Palace Hotel, " and the "Emporium. " As youwalk up and down studying life you note many things, and you see goodnature depicted in the faces of the people whom you meet. They alllook bright and intelligent. I think there is something in thesurroundings and in the exhilarating atmosphere which promotesfellowship and good feeling. There is a keen sense of humour oftenmanifest. Among many of the things which I saw was an illuminatedsign, with the legend: "Your bosom friend. " As I drew near it Idiscovered that it was over a shirt store. It was certainly mostsuggestive. The women, as you see them going hither and thither, arethe picture of health and many of them can boast of real beauty. Hereare few if any pale faces, sallow complexions, cadaverous cheeks. There are various types of nationality, but it may be said that thereis a California or San Francisco type, which is the product of climateand environment. One is struck with the animation manifested in thefaces and movements of the men and women. They are quick too inreaching conclusions and witty in observation. A young man in one ofthe railway offices asked this question: "What, " said he to me, "isthe difference in dress between a bishop and any other clergyman, " Ireplied that some of the bishops wore aprons, and that this was theonly real difference in daily attire--except some special mark on thecoat or the shape of the hat. I hastened to add by way of pleasantry, that my friend Ashton, who was standing beside me, and I had not anapron as yet. "Well, " he replied promptly, "you have gotten beyondthat. "

They take pleasure in telling a good story also. As Ashton and I weretravelling one afternoon to San Rafael we were joined on the Saucelitoferry boat by a benevolent gentleman, named Ingram, who said he was acousin of the Bishop of London. As we talked over various matters hefinally said, "I will tell you a story. An Irishman landed in New Yorkafter a stormy voyage; and as he walked up Broadway he thought thathe would go into the first place he saw, which looked like a RomanCatholic church, and there offer thanks for his safe journey. When hecame to St. Paul's Chapel, with the statute of the Apostle in view, hewent into it, and kneeling down he began to cross himself. The sextonseeing his demonstrations said to him, 'This is not a Roman church, this is a Protestant church. ' But said he, 'It is a Catholic church. Don't you see the cross and the candles on the altar. ' 'O no, ' saidthe sexton in reply, 'It is a Protestant church. ' 'No, no, ' said theIrishman, 'you can't convince me that St. Paul turned Protestant whenhe came to America!'"

One is impressed with the air of prosperity and thrift on every hand. Many of the houses are artistic in construction and elegant in theirfurnishings. Some of them are stately mansions, notably the Stanford, Huntington, Hopkins and Crocker residences on California avenue, inits most conspicuous section. The homes of these California kings areadorned with costly works of art, choice paintings, and beautifullychiselled marbles. During the sessions of the General Convention theCrocker mansions on the north side of the avenue were the centreof attraction in the liberal hospitality dispensed there and thecourtesies shown to many of the Bishops and other Clergy. On theevening of Wednesday, October the ninth, Bishop Nichols held areception for the Bishops, other Clergy, the Lay Deputies, and theirfriends, in the Hopkins' mansion, on the south side of Californiaavenue. This is now used as an Art Institute, and it is admirablyadapted to its purpose. The building was thronged all the evening bythe members of the Convention and the representatives of San Franciscosociety. Five thousand people high in the councils of the Churchand the Nation and in social walks were in attendance; and it wasimpossible to accommodate all who came. It is said that hundredswere turned away. The writer and his friends considered themselvesfortunate to be able to thread their way through the crowd withoutbeing crushed or having their garments torn. It was the grandestfunction of a social character which ever took place on the Pacificcoast. The costly paintings adorning chambers, galleries and receptionrooms, the splendid specimens of statuary, the numerous pictures, the brilliant lights, the strains of joyous music, but above all themoving throng of handsome women beautifully arrayed, and the noblebearing of Bishop, Priest and layman, with the fine intellectual facesseen on all sides, made this reception a scene never to be forgotten. Who, in the days of forty-nine, would have dreamed that, a little overa half a century later, there would be such a magnificent gatheringof intellect and beauty, --men and women with lofty aims and noted fortheir achievements in letters and art, and their prominence in Churchand State, and excelling in virtuous deeds, on a hill which was then abarren waste of shifting sands?

While I am speaking of the reception in the Hopkins' Art Institute, Imay note that Californians have a great love for art. Their own grandscenery of mountain and valley and ocean fosters the love for thebeautiful; and to-day they can point with pride to the works of suchmen as Julian Rix, Charles Dickman, H. J. Bloomer, J. M. Gamble, andH. Breuer, whose landscapes are eagerly sought for, and command highprices. The frequent sales of paintings are the best evidence that thepeople of San Francisco equal the citizens of the oldest cities of theland in refinement and the elevation of the mind and heart above themere desire to make money. There is also a goodly array of femaleartists who deserve praise and honour. Eastern cities must look wellto their laurels in the matter of art as well as in many other things. The contrast between 1849 and 1901 in the prices paid for articlesof consumption and service rendered is quite remarkable. When BayardTaylor visited San Francisco in 1849 he paid the sum of two dollarsto a Mexican porter to carry his trunk from the ship to the Plaza orPortsmouth Square. Here in an adobe building, he tells us, he had hislodging. His bed, in a loft, and his three meals per day, consistingof beefsteak, bread and coffee, cost him thirty-five dollars a week. From other sources we learn that, if you kept house, you had to payfifty cents per pound for potatoes, --one might weigh a pound. Appleswere sold at fifty cents a piece, dried apples at seventy-five cents apound. Fresh beef cost fifty cents a pound, milk was a dollar a quart, hens brought six dollars a piece, eggs nine dollars a dozen, andbutter brought down from Oregon, was sold at the rate of two dollarsand fifty cents per pound. Flour was in demand at fifty dollars abarrel, and a basket of greens would readily bring eight dollars. Acow cost two hundred dollars. A tin coffee pot was worth five dollars, and a small cooking stove was valued at one hundred dollars. A cookcommanded three hundred dollars a month, a clerk two hundred dollars amonth, and a carpenter received twelve dollars a day. Lumber sold forfour hundred dollars per thousand feet, and for a small dwelling houseyou had to pay a rental of five hundred dollars per month. It must beremembered that people were pouring into San Francisco from all partsof the world in search of gold, that there were few if any persons totill the ground, and that many of the articles in demand for life'snecessities were brought either across the Isthmus of Panama or aroundby Cape Horn. In consequence the cost of living was necessarily high. To-day you can live as cheaply in San Francisco or any other city ofCalifornia, as Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, or San Diego, as in anyeastern city or town. Rooms with board can be secured at the PalaceHotel, corner of Market street and New Montgomery, at the rate ofthree dollars and a half per day up to five dollars. Without board youcan obtain a room for the sum of one dollar and a half up to threedollars. The Grand Hotel, the annex to the Palace, and just acrossthe street, offers the same rates as the Palace. The Lick House, thecorner of Montgomery and Sutler streets, will take you for threedollars up to five per day. The Occidental, corner of Montgomery andBush streets charges also from three dollars up to five per day forboard and room. The California Hotel, an imposing structure, on Bushstreet, supplies rooms at the rate of one dollar per day and upwards. The Baldwin, corner of Market and Powell streets, charges for boardand room at the rate of two dollars and a half up to five per day; andthe Russ House receives guests, giving room and board at the rate ofone dollar and a half up to two dollars and a half per day--this hotelis situated on the corner of Montgomery and Pine streets. There aremany other hotels where the traveller can be made comfortable at amoderate cost. It is the same with many private houses which are openfor guests. In the latter a parlor and bedroom with the luxury of abath may be had for two dollars per day. A single room can be securedfor a dollar a day. In such a case you can obtain your meals at one ofthe numerous restaurants for which San Francisco is noted. There arethe restaurants at the Palace, the California and other prominenthotels, the Maison Dorée in Kearney street, Westerfeldt's in Marketstreet, and the Café in the Call Building on the top floor of thetower, from which you have a commanding view of the city in alldirections. Good servants can be had at the rate of thirty dollars permonth, especially the much abused Chinese, who cook and do the laundrywork, and wait on the table, and render a willing service. I recallthe faithfulness of the Chinaman "Fred, " who tried to please hisemployer, and also the fidelity and zeal of "Max, " the Dane, or MadsChristensen. Max was an ideal waiter. He had been only nine months inthe United States, and yet he had learned sufficient of the Englishlanguage to understand what was said to him and to express himselfclearly. It is an example of persistence; and Max had the qualitieswhich, in a young man, are bound to lead to success. 

In addition to the other great buildings you cannot fail to notice theNew City Hall, a magnificent pile including the Hall of Records to theeast of the main structure. The location is somewhat central, beingopposite Eighth street, just north of Market street, and bounded byPark avenue, Larkin and McAllister streets. The plot of ground onwhich it is erected has an area of six and three-quarters acres and istriangular in shape. The front is eight hundred feet in length, theLarkin street side five hundred and fifty feet, and the McAllisterside six hundred and fifty feet long. While the architecture isdifficult to describe, as being of any particular order, yet it may besaid that it is partly classical, partly of the renaissance style andthat it has a suggestion of the Byzantine period, which is seen in somany buildings of a public character. Nothing, however, could be moredignified than this great and imposing structure, which is traversedby a main corridor crossed by a central one with two others, one inthe east and the other in the west. These corridors which give you asense of amplitude, are paved with Vermont marble. It has one chiefdome, three hundred feet above the base, which is surmounted by acolossal figure with a torch in the uplifted right hand, a goddess ofliberty. On another section of the Hall is a small tower with a flagstaff, then a lower dome with a flag staff, the dome being supportedby pillars with Corinthian capitals. Flowers were in bloom in thecourt-yards the day when I visited the building, and they gave anartistic appearance to the granite-foundations. The upper courses ofthe Hall are made of stucco in imitation of granite. The building, which was begun in 1870, was completed in 1895. What it cost is hardto tell. I questioned several persons in regard to it, but receiveddifferent answers, ranging all the way from five millions of dollarsup to thirteen millions. San Francisco, however, may well be proud ofthe white edifice, in which are located most of the offices relatingto the business of the city. But we must not depart from theseprecincts until we have examined the monumental group in the New CityHall Square on the south side or front. The monument is circular inform and is crowned with a figure of a woman, representing California, in bronze. She wears a chaplet made of olive leaves, and holds a wandin her right hand, and in her left a large disk bordered with stars, while a bear is seen standing on her right side. No doubt Bruin hasreference to the famous bear flag which had been raised on the Plazain 1846, when California declared herself independent of Mexico, andwhich in the same year gave place to the Stars and Stripes. Around themonumental figure of California are subjects in bronze. First of allthere is an overland wagon drawn by oxen, with pioneers accompanyingit. Secondly an Indian wigwam with hunters and Indians representingthe year 1850. In the third scene we have a buffalo hunt, the hunterholding a lasso in his hand, and then there is the dying buffalo. Succeeding this we have a domestic scene--fruits and wheat--and areaper in 1848. We then note bronze-medallions of Sutter, James Lick, Fremont, Drake, the American Flag, and Serra. Moreover on this centralmonument we have the names of Stockton, Castro, Vallejo, Marshall, Sloat, Larkin, Cabrillo-Portalo. Then the date, "Erected A. D. 1894. Dedicated to the City of San Francisco by James Lick. "

The scenes on the four monuments around the central one are--First, the finding of gold in "'49"--three miners. Second, a figure with anoar. Third, Early Days. Indian with bow and arrow. Pioneer with saddleand lasso. A Franciscan preaching. Fourth, a figure crowned withwheat, apples in right hand, and the Horn of plenty with variousfruits in the left hand. The monument bears this inscription, near thebase--Whyte and De Rome, Founders. Frank Appersberger, Sculptor. 

In front of this most interesting monument is a cannon that has ahistory. Near the head of this instrument of destruction is thelegend, _Pluribus nec Impar_. On the body of the cannon we read LePrince De Conde. _Ultima Ratio Regum_. Louis Charles De Bourbon--ComteD'Eu. , Due D'Aumale. A Douay--Par T. Berenger. Commissionaire. DesFontes Le 23 Mars, 1754. 

The cannon is made of bronze, has a coat of arms, and is otherwiseornamented. It has two handles in the shape of dragons. It is twelvefeet long. But it has another inscription in which we are deeplyinterested. This is in English, and reads as follows:

"Captured at Santiago De Cuba, July 17, 1898, by the Fifth ArmyCorps, U. S. Army, Commanded by Major General William R. Shafter, andpresented by him to the City of San Francisco, California, in trustfor the Native Sons of the Golden West, and accepted as a token of thevalor and patriotism of the Army of the United States. "

While I was reading the inscriptions and making measurements an opentwo-seated carriage was driven up to the curbstone, about four o'clockin the afternoon. From this a gentleman in a business suit, aboutsixty years of age, alighted and approached me. He was a man ofpleasing address. He said to me, "You seem to be interested in thiscannon. " "I am, " was the reply. Then he began to pace it and toexamine it, and said, "It is just twelve feet long. " He thought thatpossibly it came into the hands of the Spaniards during the Napoleonicwars, and that it at length found its way over to Cuba to helpin enslaving the people of that island. As I was attracted tomy informant, I ventured to ask him whom I had the pleasure ofaddressing. Imagine my astonishment and delight when he saidmodestly--"I am General Shafter. " I said to him, "I am glad to meetone so brave and who has helped to add new lustre to our Flag. " Hereplied that "he considered it a privilege to have had a share in theliberation of Cuba, and that our beloved nation was on the march tostill greater glory. " Finding out where I came from, and that I livednear Ballston Spa, he said, "You must know my son-in-law, William H. McKittrick. " I replied that I did, that I knew him when he was a boy, and that he and his family were my parishioners, when I was Rector ofChrist Church, Ballston Spa, twenty-eight years ago. Said he, "Williamdistinguished himself in the Cuban War. He is now a Captain andAssistant Adjutant-General, and it was he who was the first to hoistthe Flag over Santiago. " The General having courteously invited me tocall on him, soon after bade me good-bye. It was a chance meeting, butfull of interest, especially under the circumstances. Here was thehero who had captured the cannon and who had won laurels for himselfand for his country. McKittrick also comes of a patriotic family, hisfather having laid his life on the altar of his country in the CivilWar; and after the elder McKittrick is named the Grand Army Post ofBallston Spa, N. Y. --Post McKittrick. General Shafter was as modeston the day when I met him by the cannon as he was brave at Santiago. While the Republic has such worthy sons she has nothing to fear. Her mission is one of peace to her own people in all the States andTerritories of the Union, and in all our Colonial possessions; and themotto of every citizen should be _Non sibi sed Patriae_. For everychurchman it ought to be _Non sibi sed Ecclesiae_. 

CHAPTER VII

CHINAMEN OF SAN FRANCISCO--THEIR CALLINGS AND CHARACTERISTICS

A Visit to Chinatown--Its Boundaries--A Terra Incognita--Fond ofMongrels--My Licensed Guide--The Study of the Signs--Men of AllCallings--Picture of the Chinaman--Devoid of Humour--Confucius--GreatMen from Good Mothers--Confucius to Women--Mormonism andMohammedanism--How to Regenerate China--Slaves of the Lamp--ChinamenImpassive--Aroused to Wrath--How They Dress--The Queue--"Pidgin"English--Payment of Debts--Bankrupt Law--Suicide. 

When in the City of the Golden Gate you will not fail to visit theChinese Quarter, or "Chinatown, " as it is popularly called. Just as inan Oriental city like Jerusalem or Constantinople you find differentnationalities or races living apart from each other, so here inSan Francisco you have "Little China" in the heart of Anglo-Saxoncivilisation. It is as if you had unfolded to your wondering eyes in adream some town from the banks of the Pearl River, the Yangtse-Kiang, or the Hwangho or. Yellow River; and it seems strange indeed that, without the trouble or expense and danger of crossing the waters ofthe Pacific, you can by a short walk from the midst of the teeminglife of an American City, be ushered into streets that are foreign inappearance and where scenes that are unfamiliar to the eye attractyour attention on every hand. With the exception of the houses, which, as a rule, take on a European or an American style of architecture, you might imagine that you were in Canton or some other Chinese city. The life is truly Asiatic and Mongolian in its character and in itsdisplay as well as in its customs. The home of the sons of the FloweryKingdom in San Francisco is in the north-eastern section of the city, and may be said to be in one of the best portions of the metropolisof the West, sheltered as it is from the winds of the Pacific by thehills which are back of it, and with a commanding view of the Bay andits islands and the magnificent landscapes to the east, valleys andhills running up to the heights of the Sierras. The locality isbounded by Jackson, Pacific, Dupont, Commercial, and Sacramentostreets, and embraces some eight squares; and within this space, crowded together, are the twenty-five or thirty thousand Chinese whoform a part of the population of the city. There are Chinamen here andthere in other parts of San Francisco, but nearly all live here inthis quarter which we are now approaching. Here there are the homes ofthe people who came from the land of Confucius, here the famous shops, the theatres, the Joss-houses where heathen worship is maintained. Assoon then as you set foot within the area described you feel that youare in a strictly foreign country; and if this is your first visit, the place is to you a sort of terra incognita. You will need a guideto take you through its labyrinths and point out to you its hiddenrecesses and explain the strange sights and interpret for you thelanguage which sounds so oddly to your ears. If you have not some manto conduct you, a dragoman or courier, you will be likely to makemistakes as ludicrous as that related of an English woman. Sir HenryHowarth, the author of the "History of the Mongols, " a learned andlaborious work, was out dining one evening. It fell to his lot at hishost's house to escort a lady to the dinner table; and she, having aconfused idea of the great man's theme, surprised him somewhat by theabrupt question, "I understand, Sir Henry, that you are fond of dogs. Are you not? I am too. " "Dogs, madam? I really must plead guiltless. Iknow nothing at all of them!" "Indeed, " his fair questioner replied;"and they told me you had written a famous history of mongrels!" Itis best then always to take a guide, and you will have no trouble infinding one, who will charge you from two to three dollars an hour. Ifyou go with a small party, which is best, all can share the expense. It will take about three hours to explore the town thoroughly andstudy the life. The writer went through Chinatown on two eveningsat an interval of a few days, and saw this Asiatic Quarter of SanFrancisco to great advantage. The first time was with a licensed guideof long experience, and the second time it was under the directionof a police-detective. Some five friends were in the party; and westarted on our tour of exploration about half past nine o'clock atnight. The night is the best time in which to study the life, for thenyou can see the Chinese in their houses and at their amusements, aswell as many others who still are at work; for some of the Chineseartisans toil for sixteen hours a day, and long into the hours of thenight. Here among them are no strikes for fewer hours, but patienttoil, as it were in a treadmill, without a murmur. My licensedguide was Henry Gehrt, a man about fifty-five years old, of Germanparentage. He had been in the business for twenty-seven years, and hemaintained an office on Sacramento Street. His badge was No. 60. All guides must wear badges according to law. As we went hither andthither we met occasionally groups of sight-seers, among them some ofour friends, members of the Convention, Bishops, and clerical and laydeputies, who felt this was a rare opportunity to study heathendom;and I am sure all went away from this strange spot thanking God forour noble Anglo-Saxon civilisation, as well as for the knowledge ofHis Revelation. 

The houses, I observed, are three, and sometimes four stories high, with balconies and windows, which give them a decidedly Orientalappearance. On most of them were signs displayed in the Chineselanguage. You also see scrolls by the doors of the private houses andon the shops. The signs are a study in their bright colours and theirmythological and fantastic adornments. Yellow is the predominantcolour, and the dragon is in evidence everywhere. This emblem of theCelestial Empire is represented in gorgeous array and with a profusionof ornament. A splendid dragon is the sign and trade mark of "Sing Fatand Co. , " who keep a Chinese and Japanese Bazaar on Dupont Street. Ontheir card they give this warning, "Beware of firms infringing on ourname;" and it seems as if the dragon on the sign would avenge anyinvasion of their rights. The signs are a study, and if you areignorant of the language, you ask your learned guide to interpret themfor you. He will tell you that Hop Wo does business here as a grocer, that Shun Wo is the butcher, that Shan Tong is the tea-merchant, thatTin Yuk is the apothecary, and that Wo-Ki sells bric-a-brac. Some ofthe signs, your guide will tell you, are not the real names of the menwho do business, that they are only mottoes. Wung Wo Shang indicatesto you that perpetual concord begets wealth, Hip Wo speaks to you ofbrotherly love and harmony, Tin Yuk means a jewel from Heaven, WaYun is the fountain of flowers, while Man Li suggests thousands ofprofits. Other of the signs relate to the muse. They do not at allreveal the business carried on within. The butcher, for example, hasover his shop such elegant phrases as Great Concord, Constant Faith, Abounding Virtue. There are many pawn-brokers who ply their vocationassiduously. They tell you of their honest purpose after thisfashion: "Let each have his due pawn-brokers, " and, "Honest profitpawn-brokers. " In the Chinese restaurant, to which we will go later, you will be edified by such sentiments as these, --The Almond-FlowerChamber, Chamber of the Odours of Distant Lands, Garden of the GoldenValley, Fragrant Tea-Chamber. The apothecary induces you to enter hisstore with inviting signs of this character: Benevolence and LongevityHall, Hall of Everlasting Spring, Hall of Joyful Relief, Hall forMultiplying Years. Surely if the American druggist would exhibit suchsentences as these over his shop he would never suffer for want ofcustomers. All are in pursuit of length of years and health; and Ithink the Chinese pharmacist shows his great wisdom in offering to allwho are suffering from the ills to which flesh is heir a panacea fortheir ailments. It takes the fancy, it is a pleasing conceit for themind, and the mere thought that you are entering Longevity Hall givesyou fresh courage!

You will find here in Chinatown men of all callings, the labourer whois ready to bear any burden you lay on him, the artisan who is skilledin his work, the grocer, the clothes' dealer, the merchant, theapothecary, the doctor, the tinsmith, the furniture-maker, theengraver, the goldsmith, the maker of paper-shrines for idols, thebarber, the clairvoyant, the fortune-teller, and all others of everycalling which is useful and brings profit to him who pursues it. Butwe are deeply interested in the men whom we meet. At first view theyall seem to look alike, you can hardly distinguish one from another. They are a study. Look on their solemn faces, sphinx-like in theirrepose and imperturbability. They are a riddle to you. You rarely everhear them laugh. They are like a landscape beneath skies which arewanting in the sparkling sunbeams. They seem to you as if they hadcontinual sorrow of heart, as if some wrong of past ages had set itsseal on their features. The Chinaman has very little sense ofthe ludicrous, and he is lacking in the elements of intellectualsprightliness and vivacity which lead a Frenchman or an American toappreciate and enjoy a sally of wit, a bon mot, or a joke. Life indeedis better, and a man can bear his burdens with more ease if he has asense of humour. Some of the great characters in history have oftencome out of the depths with triumph by reason of the spirit withinthem which could perceive the flash of wit and apply its medicine tothe wounds of the heart. I think it may be said, as a rule, that theAsiatic has not the power to appreciate wit and humour like the oldGreek or the Teuton or the Celt. He is not wanting in his love ofthe beautiful, in his appreciation of poetry, in the vision whichperceives the flowers blooming by the waters in the desert, and in thehearing which catches the sound of the harmonies of his palm-treesand lotus flowers, but in the sense or faculty to seize on mirthand appropriate her to his service in burden-bearing he is sadlydeficient. He is but a child in this respect. While the Chinaman hasinventive faculties and keen intellect and wonderful imitative powers, yet in other respects he is behind the progressive races of the world. He has made little advance for thousands of years. His isolation, hisnarrow sphere, his simple life, and his religion even, which, whilesome of its maxims and tenets are admirable, still is lacking in theknowledge of the true God and in lofty ideals, have had a markedeffect upon his thoughts and habits and pursuits. His great teacher, Confucius, who flourished five centuries before the Christian eraand who spoke some sublime truths, was nevertheless ignorant of aRevelation from heaven and inferior in his grasp of religious truth tosuch sages of Greece as Socrates and Plato. In his system also womanis practically a slave. She is simply the minister of man, andtherefore unable to rear up children, sons who would reflect thegreatness of soul of a noble motherhood. It has often been remarkedthat great men have had great mothers. I think experience andobservation will bear out this statement. Glance over the pages ofhistory, and eminent examples will rise up before the view. Whencespring the Samuels and the Davids, whence a Leonidas and a MarkosBozzaris, whence the Scipios and the Gracchi, whence the Augustinesand the Chrysostoms, whence the Alfreds and the Gladstones, whence theWashingtons and the Lincolns, whence the Seaburys and the Doanes, and many another? Are they not all hewn from the quarries of a noblemotherhood? Are they not sprung from the fountain of a womanhood whoseliving streams are clear as crystal and sweet and refreshing? Thefirst Chavah, Eve, is rightly styled the mother of all living; and ageneration or race of men to be living, active, noble in achievement, distinguished in virtues, must issue from a well-spring whichvitalises and beautifies and magnifies the spirit and the intellect, as Engannim waters her gardens, and Engedi nourishes her acaciasand lotus-plants, and Enshemesh reflects the sun's golden beams thelivelong day. But what, you ask, are the exact teachings of the sageConfucius, who influences Chinese society even to this day, withregard to woman? Hear him: "Moreover, that you have not in this lifebeen born a male is owing to your amount of wickedness, heaped up ina previous state of existence, having been both deep and weighty; youwould not then desire to adorn virtue, to heap up good actions, andlearn to do well! So that you now have been hopelessly born a female!And if you do not this second time specially amend your faults, this amount of wickedness of yours will be getting both deeper andweightier, so that it is to be feared in the next state of existence, even if you should wish for a male's body, yet it will be verydifficult to get it. " Again another saying of Confucius is: "You mustknow that for a woman to be without talent is a virtue on her part. "With such teaching then ever before them, do you wonder that Chinesewomen do not excel in virtue, and that they are the mothers of a raceof men who are practically like standing water instead of a flowingfountain to refresh the waste places of human life? The teachings ofMormonism and Mohammedanism with regard to woman also degrade her androb her of the beautiful crown which her Maker has put upon her head;and hence it is that such peoples are not virile and progressive likethe nations where woman is looked upon as man's helpmeet, where shestands upon his right hand as a queen. The Mormons are better in manyrespects than their faith; and if the first generation was hardyand aggressive and brave in subduing the desert and changing RockyMountain wastes into a blooming garden, it was because they had beentrained in the school of Christianity and had imbibed lessons ofwisdom at the fountain of a pure faith and inherited from Christianfathers and mothers those qualities which are stamped on the soulthrough upright living and a creed that is formulated in truedoctrine. But Mormonism is dying out, and woman in Utah is receivingthe rightful place assigned her by her Creator in the work of buildingup the race and perpetuating the virtues and forces of a true manhood. The followers of Mohammed are still numerous and powerful, and theReligion of the Koran has shown great vitality for centuries. Thenobility of character, however, which has manifested itself in suchlives as that of Saladin the Great is the product of other causes thanthe specific teachings and views of Islam respecting domestic lifeand the position and office of woman. The destinies of men have beendetermined often by their environments. We must also bear in mind thatfrom time to time, under the sway of the Crescent, different sectionsof the civilised world have been brought under the rule of theSultans, and all that was good and noble in the lives of peoples newlyincorporated into the faith of the Arabian Prophet has contributed inno small degree to the strength of a system which has in its own bosomthe seeds of decay and which will ultimately become effete and passaway. Mohammed Ali, the founder of the present Khedivial house ofEgypt, had in his veins old Macedonian blood, and his views respectingmarriage and domestic life, as well as the traditions of his familyin his old home at Kavala, had much to do with the development of hischaracter and his brilliant career; and hence neither he nor otherslike him in the Turkish Empire can be singled out to prove thata religion which looks upon woman as an inferior being to man isexcellent in its tendencies and produces a noble fruitage. WhatNapoleon once said with respect to France, that she needed goodmothers, is true as regards China. Where woman is held in honour andwhere the domestic virtues are woven into a beautiful chaplet ofspring-time blossoms to bedeck her brow, there you will find good andgreat men. Our own nation is an example of this. To regenerateChina then, to improve the morals of Chinatown in San Francisco, orChinatown in New York where there are between seven and eight thousandsons and daughters of the Flowery Kingdom, you must create pure homes, and to do this you must first of all sweeten them with the precepts ofthe Gospel of Jesus Christ. Confucius will fail you. The Son of Godwill reform you and save you! Such thoughts and reflections as thesenaturally sprang up in my mind in my walks through Chinatown. I sawits people on every hand. Sometimes they were in twos, again in groupsof a half a dozen or more. They scarcely noticed us as we walked bythem; they showed no curiosity to observe us, but went on their way asthough intent on one object. They moved about like automatons, as ifthey were a piece of machinery; and such as were at work in shopsheeded us not even when we stood over them and watched them as theyhandled their tools. It was work, work. They were doing their masters'bidding like the genii of the lamp; and in the glare of the light inwhich they wrought on their bench or at their stand the workers ingold and silver, the makers of ornaments and jewelry, were likesome strange beings from another world. They work to the point ofendurance. They have their amusements, their holidays, as the ChineseNew Year which comes in February, their processions from time to time, but their great indulgence is in the use of opium. Once or twicea month the ordinary labourer or workman gives himself up to itsseductive charms, to its power more fatal to his manhood thanintoxicating drinks taken to excess. The Chinaman is so stolid andimpassive that it is hard to arouse his wrath. He will bear insultswithout a murmur for a long time, but in the end he will be stung intomadness and he will give force to all his pent up fires of hatethat have slumbered like a volcano. He may wait long without havingpunished his oppressor, but he will bide his time. So it was with theBoxers in China whose story is so painfully fresh in the memories ofthe great legations of the world in Pekin. 

The men and women of Chinatown dress very nearly like each other;though you do not meet many women. The Chinaman wears a blouse of bluecotton material or other cheap, manufactured goods. This is without acollar, and is usually hooked over the breast. There are no buttons. Wealthy Chinamen, and there are many such, indulge in richer garments. As a rule they have adopted the American felt hat of a brownishcolour. The shoe has the invariable wooden sole with uppers of cottonor some kind of ordinary cloth. The hair is the object of their chiefattention, however, in the making up of their toilet. It is worn in aqueue or pigtail fashion as it is commonly styled. It is theirglory, however, this long, black, glossy braid. It is the Chinaman'sdistinguishing badge. It gives him dignity in the presence of hiscountrymen. If cut off he feels dishonoured. He can never go back tothe home of his ancestors, but must remain in exile. He wears thismark of his nationality either hanging down his back or else coiledabout the head. When at work the latter style is preferred, as it isthen out of the way of his movements. Some of the men whom you meethave fine intellectual heads. The merchants and scholars whom I sawanswer to this description. As a rule they can all read and write. They have a love of knowledge to a certain point, and a book is prizedby them. The great desire of the Chinamen who reach our shores is tolearn the English language. They know it gives them an advantage. Itis the avenue to success. Sometimes they will become members of anAmerican Mission or Bible-class in order to learn the language. Theystill, however, have their mental reservations with regard to theirnative Joss-houses and worship. But they are not singular in thisrespect. Mohammedans and Jews in the East allow their children toattend schools where English is taught, because with the knowledge ofthis they can the more readily find employment among tourists and inplaces of exchange. This is particularly true in Egypt and in Syria. But the Chinaman in his attempt to learn the Anglo-Saxon tongue findsgreat difficulties. Very many speak only what is called "Pidgin" or"Pigeon" English, that is Business English. Business on the lips ofthe new learner becomes "Pidgin. " They like to end a word with ee as"muchee, " and they find it next to impossible to frame the letter R. For example the word _rice_ becomes _lice_ in a Chinaman's mouth, and a Christian is a Chlistian, while an American is turned into anAmelican. Of course this does not apply to the educated Chinaman whois polished and gifted in speech as is the case with any well-trainedChinese clergyman or such as minister Wu Ting-Fang in Washington. 

All debts among the Chinese are paid once a year, that is when theirNew Year comes around in our month of February. There are three waysin which they may cancel their debts. First, they pay them in money, if they are able, when accounts are cast up between creditor anddebtor. If in the second place they are unable to pay what they owethey assign all their goods and effects to their creditors, and thenthe debtor gets a clean bill and so starts out anew with a clearconscience for another year. This in few words is the Chinese"Bankrupt Law. " But, in the third place, if a man has no assets, if hebe entirely impoverished, and cannot pay his debts, he considers ita matter of honour to kill himself. Death pays all debts for him, settles all scores, and he is not looked upon with aversion orexecrated. Even Chinese women have resorted to this extreme method ofsettling their accounts. But what of their settlement with their Makerwho gave them life, who holds all men responsible for that gift, whoexpects us to use the boon aright? A Chinaman does not value life withthe same feeling and estimate as an Anglo-Saxon. Should he fail in anygreat purpose, should he meet with defeat in some cherished plan, hewill seek refuge in the bosom of the grave; he will voluntarily returnto his ancestors whom he has worshipped as gods. In the late warbetween China and Japan, in which China was vanquished, some of hergenerals committed suicide. It presents, alas, a degenerate side ofhuman nature. It is most pathetic. Better far to live under the smartof defeat and bear its shame, carry the cross, endure the stings ofconscience, and meet the frowns of the world, than flee from thepath of duty, than dishonour our manhood. The greatest victory isto conquer one's proud heart, and to suffer, and do God's will. Theteachings of Christ show us the value of life, tell us how to live, how to die, how to win the divine approbation. To Him we bow and notto Confucius. 

CHAPTER VIII

A CHINESE NEWSPAPER, LITTLE FEET, AND AN OPIUM JOINT

In Chinatown--A Chinese Editor--His Views of Chinese Life--A DailyPaper and the Way in Which it is Printed--A Night School--The Missionof the English Language--A Widow and Her Children--Pair of SmallShoes--Binding of the Feet and Custom--Mrs. Wu Ting-Fang on SmallFeet--Maimed and Veiled Women--The Shulamite's Feet--An Opium-joint--AWretched Chinaman--Fascination of Opium--History and Cultivationof the Poppy--The East India Company and the Opium War--An OpiumFarmer--How the Old Man Smoked--De Quincey and His Experiences--"IWill Sleep No More. "

As my guide and I went forth to visit the places of interest inChinatown, we directed our steps first of all to the Chinese newspaperoffice. This is located at No. 804 Sacramento street, corner of Dupontstreet. On being ushered in I met with a cordial welcome from themanaging editor, Mr. Ng Poon Chew, who, before I bade him good-bye, exchanged cards with me. He, I learned, is a Christian minister andis the pastor of a Chinese church in Los Angeles. His literaryattainments and business capacity peculiarly fit him for his workon the Chinese paper, and he is held in high esteem by Chinamengenerally. He is a man about four feet five inches in stature, andpossibly forty years old. It is hard, however, to tell a Chinaman'sage, and so he may be five or ten years older. He is what you wouldcall a handsome man, with a fine head and a beaming countenance. Heshowed great warmth in his greeting--and this was the more remarkableas the Chinaman is generally cool and impassive. He was dressed in theChinese fashion with the traditional queue hanging down behind. Hepresented altogether a striking appearance, and you would singlehim out from a crowd as a man of more than ordinary cultivation andability. He talked English fluently, and it was a pleasure to listento him. He has well defined views regarding China and other countries. When questioned about the Flowery Kingdom, he said that the peoplewere very conservative, that they do not wish for change, and thatChinese women dress as they did thousands of years ago. He remarked, however, that there is a younger generation of Chinamen who long fora change and for reform in methods, I suppose after the manner of theso-called "Young Turks" in the Sultan's dominions. They would like theimprovements of European and American life, and would shake off thetrammels of the past to a large extent, just as Japan has shaken offthe sleep of centuries and is marching towards greatness among thestrong nations of the world. With the modern appliances and advancesin civilisation and armies well drilled like those of England or theUnited States of America, and with great war-ships well manned, theywould be able to meet the world and to defend themselves and repelevery invader from their country. He says the Chinese have goodmemories, that they will never forget the manner in which opium cameto them, and the opium war of 1839. When he was a child he was taughtto pray to a wooden god, and he had to rise as early as 3:30 A. M. Togo to school to study the teachings of Confucius. As the custom is togo so early in the morning to school, the children sometimes drop tosleep by the way as they are hastening on. Chinamen will tell you thatthey have the religion which is best for them. This is the doctrine ofConfucius; but Confucius, while a great scholar, was not a saint. Hetaught men "to improve their pocket, " but did not teach them muchabout their soul. In order to see the real effect of the teachings ofConfucius, you must go to China. Confucius may make men whom you mayadmire, but he cannot make men whom you can respect. The religion ofConfucius is dreary and is lacking in the warmth and blessing whichcome from a belief in the Bible. 

It is most certainly refreshing to hear this learned Chinaman talkingand giving his impressions and opinions about matters of such vitalimportance. Ng Poon Chew, at my request, gave me the business card ofthe newspaper. This states that the paper, which is published dailyin Chinese, is called "Chung Sai Yat Po, " and that it has the largestcirculation of any Chinese paper published outside of the ChineseEmpire. The card further tells us that "this paper is the organ ofthe commercial element in America and is the best medium for Chinesetrade. " In addition to the daily issue of the newspaper, "English andChinese Job Printing" is done in the office. The work of interpretingthe English and Chinese languages is carried on here. Mr. Ng Poon Chewspoke with evident pride about his paper, and informed me that he gavea daily account of the proceeding's of the General Convention, then insession in Trinity Church, San Francisco, in the "Chung Sai Yat Po. "

The editing of a Chinese newspaper is no easy matter. The printing ofthe paper is difficult and requires great skill and patience. Thereare, for example, forty thousand word-signs, all different, in theChinese language, and to represent these signs there must be separate, movable type-pieces. It is said that it takes a long period of time todistribute the type and lay out "the case. " The typesetter must knowthe word by sight to tell its meaning, otherwise he will make seriousblunders. Then it is a hard matter to find intelligent typesetters. The editor, too, must be a man of business. The paper is watched byspies of the Chinese Government, and if the editor expresses himselfin any manner antagonistic to the Emperor or the Dowager Empress orany of the viceroys of the provinces, his head would be cut off if heever ventured to set foot in China. There is another obstacle in theway of a Chinese newspaper of liberal views, like the "Chung Sai YatPo. " It cannot get its type from China, as the Government is opposedto every reform paper. The type for such a journal is cast in aJapanese foundry in Yokohama. It is said that about ten thousandword-signs are used in the printing of the newspaper. The type-case isusually long, for the purpose of allowing all the type-pieces to bespread out. The type runs up and down in a column, and you read fromright to left as in Hebrew or other Shemitic languages. The charactersare as old in form as the days of Confucius. The "Chung Sai Yat Po"has a very large circulation and finds its way to the islands of thePacific Ocean and into China. 

From the newspaper office we wended our way to a little Baptistmission chapel for the Chinese. There were about forty personscongregated here, among them some ten or twelve Americans who wereteaching the Chinese the English language. This night school ispopular with young, ambitious Chinamen, for when they learn ourlanguage it is much easier for them to obtain work in stores andoffices, and even as house servants. The books used had the Chinesewords on one page and the English sentences opposite. Sometimesconverts to Christianity are made through the medium of the nightschool, but it takes time and patience to win a Chinaman fromthe religion of Confucius. It is worth the labour, however. Thedifficulties in the mastery of English are a great barrier toconversions. Nevertheless they do occur. A Chinaman is readily reachedthrough his own language. Hence the importance of raising up nativeteachers of the Gospel who can speak to the hearts as well as to theunderstanding of their countrymen. As we observed in the foregoingchapter, in the Orient, as in Syria and Egypt, Jews and Mohammedanssometimes allow their children to attend the English schools, and to alarge extent from a worldly motive. The Syrian or Arab who can speakEnglish is in demand as a dragoman, an accountant, an office clerk inthe bazaar, or a camp-servant or boatman. Indeed a great revolution isnow taking place all through the East. Nearly all the young Egyptianscan talk English, and this is the first step towards their conversionto the faith of the Gospel. When they are able to read the books ofthe Christians in the English, they are led to look favourably onthe Church. They catch the spirit of belief in Jesus Christ from theChristian tourist. They lose the narrowness and bigotry which themosque or the synagogue fosters, and in time they examine the claimsof a religion which has built up the great nations of Europe andAmerica. The future has in store great developments for the Church inPalestine and the old land of the Pharaohs through the agency of theEnglish schools, and I believe the readiest way in which to convertthe Chinese people, whether in Chinatown in San Francisco, or in Chinaitself, is to teach them our language and give them access to the HolyScriptures in our noble tongue. Our Church schools in China are doinga great work in this respect. So is St. John's College in Shanghai. They should all be liberally supported with offerings from America, and what we sow in this generation will be reaped in the next, asplendid harvest for Christ and His Church!

After leaving the night school our guide conducted us up narrow stairsto the rooms occupied by a Chinese woman. She was a widow with fourchildren, daughters, and rather petite in form, and lacking thephysical development and beauty of the Caucasian race. They seemed shyand timid, for Chinese women are not accustomed to the society of men. In fact there is among them no such home-life as we are familiar with. They were dressed in a measure after the fashion of our girls, and hadlong, black hair. The mother said a few sentences in broken English, and welcomed us with an air of sincerity, though not a littleembarrassed. She was a woman of about forty years, and from theexpression of her face had evidently met with trials. Brought over toSan Francisco from Canton when a young girl, she had married Shan Tongwith all the ceremony and merry-making which characterise a Chinesewedding, with its processions and feasting and the noise of itsfirecrackers; but some four or five years ago death claimed herhusband, and she was left to do battle alone, while he was laid torest in the Chinese burying-ground at the west end of Laurel HillCemetery. But she did not suffer from want, for Chinamen are kindto the needy of their own race. Among the objects which excited ourcuriosity were the tiny shoes of the small-footed woman. These werenot quite three inches in length, and looked as if they were moresuited for a doll's feet than for a full grown woman's. Yes, here wasthe evidence of a barbarous custom which deprives a human being of oneof nature's good gifts, so necessary to our comfort and happiness. Think what you would be, if, through infirmity, you were not atliberty to go hither and thither at will like the young hart orgazelle! We grieve naturally if our children's feet are deformed ormisshapen at birth, but what a crime it is to destroy the form andstrength of the foot as God has made it! It is true that the Manchuwomen in China rejoice in the feet which the beneficent Creator hasgiven them. The Dowager Empress--of whom we have read so much of late, and who rules China with an iron rod, has feet like any other woman;but millions of her countrywomen have been robbed of nature'sendowment through a foolish and wicked custom which has prevailed inChina from time immemorial. The feet are bound when the child is born, and they are never allowed to grow as God designed, as the flowerexpands into beauty from the bud. Chinese women realise that it isfoolish, that it is a deformity, but it is the "custom, " and customprevails. It is like the laws of the Medes and Persians which alternot. Women are powerless under it. It is in vain to a large extentthat they oppose it. There is in China an Anti-foot-binding League, which receives the support of men of prominence. Even centuries agoimperial edicts were issued against it, but custom still rules. Itwas Montaigne who declared that "custom" ought to be followed simplybecause it is custom. A poor reason indeed. There should be a betterargument for the doing of what is contrary to reason and nature. Nature is a wise mother, and she bestows on us no member of the bodythat is unnecessary. The thought of her fostering care was wellexpressed by the old Greeks who lived an out-door life, in theirpersonification of Mother Earth under the creation of their Demeter, perfect in form and beautiful in expression and noble in action. Thisis far above the conceptions of nature or of a presiding genius overour lives, taking into account social order and marriage vows, whichwe find in Chinese literature or mythology. It is not difficult toperceive the reason why the Greeks, who rule the realms of philosophyand art and literature to-day, after the lapse of many centuries, are the superior people. Well does that master-mind, Shakespeare, characterise evil custom:

 "That monster, custom, who all sense doth eat, Of habits devil. "

But a better day is coming for Chinese women. Wherever Christianityhas touched them in the past they have been uplifted and benefited. The sun seems now to rise in greater effulgence on the Kingdom of theYellow Dragon. The wretched custom of dwarfing and destroying the feetof a child whose misfortune, according to Confucius, it is to beborn a female, is giving way under pressure from contact with theenlightened nations of the world. The teachings of the ChristianChurch are having their salutary effect and Chinamen are beginning tolearn the value of a woman's life from the Biblical standpoint, andthe daughters of the Flowery Kingdom will, as time goes on, becomemore and more like the polished corners of the Temple, or theCaryatides supporting the entablature of the Erechtheum at Athens. Itis Madame Wu Ting-Fang, wife of the Chinese Minister at Washington, who has recently returned from a visit to her old home, who says: "Thefirst penetrating influence of exterior civilisation on the customs ofmy country has touched the conditions of women. The emancipation ofwoman in China means, first of all, the liberation of her feet, andthis is coming. Indeed, it has already come in a measure, for thestyle in feet has changed. Wee bits of feet, those no longer than aninfant's, are no longer the fashion. When I went back home I foundthat the rigid binding and forcing back of the feet was largely athing of the past. China, with other nations, has come to regard thatpractice as barbarous, but the small feet, those that enable a womanto walk a little and do not inconvenience her in getting about thehouse, are still favoured by the Chinese ladies. "

The custom of binding and destroying the feet, no doubt, arose fromthe low views entained by Chinese sages concerning woman, and froma lack of confidence in her sense of honour and virtue. She must bemaimed so that she cannot go about at will, so she shall be completelyunder the eye of her husband, held as it were in fetters. It is a sadcomment on Chinese domestic morality, it fosters the very evil itseeks to cure, it destroys all home life in the best sense. The veiledwomen of the East are very much in the same position. If a stranger, out of curiosity or by accident, look on the face of a Mohammedanwife, it might lead to her repudiation by her jealous husband, or theoffender might be punished for his innocent glance. The writer recallshow at Hebron, in Palestine, he was cautioned by the dragoman, whengoing up a narrow street to the Mosque of Machpelah, where he had topass veiled women, not to look at them or to seem to notice them, as the men were very fanatical and might do violence to an unwarytourist. The Chinese women of small feet, or rather no feet at all, walk, or attempt to walk, in a peculiar way. It is as if one were onstilts. The feet are nothing but stumps, while the ankles are large, almost unnatural in their development. It is indeed a great deformity. The feet are shrunken to less size than an infant's; but they have notthe beauty of a baby's feet, which have in them great possibilitiesand a world of suggestion and romance and poetry. If the Chinesecustom had prevailed among the ancient Hebrew people, think you thatKing Solomon in singing of the graces of the Shulamite, who representsthe Church mystically, would ever have exclaimed, --"How beautifulare thy feet with shoes, O prince's daughter!" We should have lost, moreover, much that is noble in art, and the poetic creations of Greeksculptors would never have delighted the eye nor enchained the fancy. 

In our perambulations about Chinatown, we must next visit anopium-joint. This mysterious place was situated in a long, ramblingbuilding through which we had to move cautiously so as not to stumbleinto some pit or dangerous hole or trap-door. Here were no electriclights to drive away the gloom, here no gas-jets to show us where wewere treading, nothing but an occasional lamp dimly burning. Yet wewent on as if drawn by a magic spell. At last we were ushered into aroom poorly furnished. It was not more than twelve feet square, and inthe corner was an apology for a bed. On this was stretched an old manwhose face was sunken, whose eyes were lusterless, whose hand was longand thin and bony, and whose voice was attenuated and pitched in afalsetto key. The guide said that this old Chinaman was sixty-eightyears of age, and that he had had a life of varied experience. He wasa miner by profession, but had spent all his earnings long ago, andwas now an object of charity as well as of pity. Indeed he was thevery embodiment of misery, a wretched, woebegone, human being! He hadlost one arm in an accident during his mining days. Chinamen in thethirst for gold had mining claims as well as Anglo-Saxons. This desirefor the precious metal seems to be universal. All men more or lesslove gold; and for its acquisition they will undergo great hardship, face peril, risk their lives. This aged Chinaman for whom there was nofuture except to join his ancestors in another life, was now a paupernotwithstanding all his quest for the treasures of the mines; and hischief solace, if it be comfort indeed to have the senses benumbedperiodically, or daily, and then wake up to the consciousness of lossand with a feeling of despair betimes, was in his opium pipe, which hesmoked fifty times a day at the cost of half a dollar, the offeringof charity, the dole received from his pitying countrymen or theinterested traveller who might come to his forlorn abode. But whata fascination the opium drug has for the Chinaman, and not for himalone, but for children of other races--for men and women who, whenunder its spell, will sell honour and sacrifice all that is dear inlife, and even forego the prospect and the blessed hope of entering atlast into the bliss of the heavenly world! But what is opium, what itsparentage and history? The Greeks will tell you it is their opion oropos, the juice of the poppy, and the botanist will point out themagic flower for you as the Papaver Somniferum, whose home wasoriginally in the north of Europe and in Western Asia; but now, justas the tribes of the earth have spread out into many lands, so has thepoppy which has brought much misery as well as blessing to men, found its way into various quarters of the globe, particularly thosecountries which are favoured with sunny skies. It is cultivated inTurkey, India, Persia, Egypt, Algeria and Australia, as well as inChina. I now recall vividly the beautiful poppy fields at Assiut, Esneh and Kenneh, by the banks of the Nile, in which such subtlepowers were sleeping potent for ill or good as employed by man fordeadening his faculties or soothing pain in reasonable measure. Theseflowers were of the reddish kind. In China they have the white, redand purple varieties, which, as you gaze on them, seem to set thefields aglow with fire and attract your gaze as if you were enchainedto the spot by an unseen power. The seeds are sown in November andDecember, in rows which are eighteen inches apart, and four-fifthsof the opium used in China is the home-product, though it was notso formerly. In March or April the poppy flowers according to theclimate, the soil, and the location. The opium is garnered in April orMay, and prepared for the market. The Chinese merchant values most ofall the Shense drug, while the Ynnan and the Szechuen drugs take nextrank. The opium is generally made into flat cakes and wrapped up infolds of white paper. It is said that it was introduced into China inthe reign of Taitsu, between the years A. D. 1280 and 1295; but it isworthy of note that up to the year 1736 it was imported only in smallquantities and employed simply for its medicinal properties, as a curefor diarrhoea, dysentery, and fevers, hemorrhage and other ills. Itwas in the year 1757 that the monopoly of the cultivation of the poppyin India passed into the hands of the East India Company through thevictory of Lord Clive over the Great Mogul of Bengal at Plassey; andfrom this time the importation of the drug into China became a matterof great profit financially. In 1773 the whole quantity imported wasonly two hundred chests. In 1776 it had increased to one thousandchests, while in 1790 it leaped up to four thousand and fifty-fourchests. The Chinese Emperor, Keaking, becoming alarmed at its growinguse and its pernicious effect when eaten or smoked, forbade itsimportation, and passed laws punishing persons who made use of itotherwise than medicinally, and the extreme penalty was sometimestransportation, and sometimes death. Yet the trade increased, andin the decade between 1820 and 1830 the importation was as high assixteen thousand, eight hundred and seventy-seven chests. The evilbecame so great that in 1839 a royal proclamation was put forththreatening English opium ships with confiscation if they did not keepout of Chinese waters. This was not heeded, and then Lin, the ChineseCommissioner, gave orders to destroy twenty thousand, two hundredand ninety-one chests of opium, each containing 149-1/3 pounds, thevaluation of which was $10, 000, 000. Still the work of smuggling wenton and the result was what is known as the Opium War, which was endedin 1842 by the treaty of Nanking. China was forced by Great Britain topay $21, 000, 000 indemnity, to cede in perpetuity to England the cityof Hong Kong, and to give free access to British ships enteringthe ports of Canton, Amoy, Foochoofoo, Ningpo and Shanghai. Theimportation of opium from India is still carried on--but the quantityis not so great as formerly, owing to the cultivation of the plant inChina. The Hong Kong government has an opium farm, for which to-day itreceives a rental of $15, 500 per month. The farmer sells on an averagefrom eight to ten _tins_ of opium daily, the tins being worth about$150 each. His entire receipts from his sales of the drug are about$45, 000 per month. This opium farmer is well known to be the largestsmuggler of opium into China; and not without reason does Lord CharlesBeresford, in his book "The Break-up of China, " say: "Thus, indirectly the Hong Kong government derives a revenue by fosteringan illegitimate trade with a neighbouring and friendly Power, whichcannot be said to redound to the credit of the British Government. Itis in direct opposition to the sentiments and tradition of the laws ofthe British Empire. " It was here in Chinatown, in San Francisco, thatI was brought face to face with the havoc that is made through theopium trade and the use of the pernicious drug in eating and smoking. I was told that Europeans and Americans sometimes sought theopium-joints for the purpose of indulgence in the vice of smoking. Even women were known to make use of it in this way. The old man whomI visited was lying on his left side, with his head slightly raisedon a hard pillow covered with faded leather. He took the pipe in hisright hand, the other, as I have already said, having been cut off inthe mines. Then he laid down the pipe by his side with the stem nearhis mouth. The next movement was to take a kind of long rod, called adipper, with a sharp end and a little flattened. This he dipped inthe opium which had the consistency of thick molasses. He twisted thedipper round and then held the drop which adhered to it over the lamp, which was near him. He wound the dipper round and round until theopium was roasted and had a brown colour. He then thrust the end ofthe dipper with the prepared drug into the opening of the pipe, whichwas somewhat after the Turkish style with its long stem. He next heldthe bowl of the pipe over the lamp until the opium frizzled. Thenputting the stem of the pipe in his mouth he inhaled the smoke, andalmost immediately exhaled it through the mouth and nostrils. Whilesmoking he removed the opium, going through the same process asbefore, and it all took about fifteen minutes. What the old man'sfeelings were he did not tell us, but he seemed very contented, as ifthen he cared for nothing, as if he had no concern for the world andits trials. But one must read the graphic pages of Thomas De Quinceyin his "Confessions of an English Opium Eater, " in order to know whatare the joys and what the torments of him who is addicted to the useof the pernicious drug. It was while De Quincey was in Oxford that hecame under its tyranny. At first taken to allay neuralgic pain, andthen resorted to as a remedy on all occasions of even the slightestsuffering, it wove its chain around him like a merciless master whoputs his servant in bonds. But though given to its use all his lifeafterwards, in later years he took it moderately. Still he was itsslave. A man of marvellous genius, a master of the English tongue, he had not full mastery of his own appetite; and one of such talent, bound Andromeda-like to the rock of his vice, ready to be devouredin the sea of his perplexity by what is worse than the dragon of thestory, he deserves our pity, nay, even our tears. He tells us howhe was troubled with tumultuous dreams and visions, how he was aparticipant in battles, strifes; and how agonies seized his soul, andsudden alarms came upon him, and tempests, and light and darkness;how he saw forms of loved ones who vanished in a moment; how he heard"everlasting farewells;" and sighs as if wrung from the caves of hellreverberated again and again with "everlasting farewells. " "And Iawoke in struggles, and cried aloud, 'I will sleep no more!'"

CHAPTER IX

MUSIC, GAMBLING, EATING, THEATRE-GOING

In Chinatown--A Musician's Shop--A Secret Society--Gambling Houses--"TheHeathen Chinee"--Fortune-telling--The Knife in the Fan-Case--A BoardingHouse--A Lesson for Landlords--A Kitchen--A Goldsmith's Shop--TheRestaurant--Origin of the Tea-Plant--What a Chinaman Eats--The Tobaccoor Opium Pipe--A Safe with Eight Locks--The Theatre--Women byThemselves--The Play--The Stage--The Actors--The Orchestra and theMusic--The Audience--A Death on the Stage--The Theatre a GatheringPlace--No Women Actors--A Wise Provision--Temptations--Real Acting--Menthe Same Everywhere. 

The reader will now accompany us to a musician's shop in ourwanderings through Chinatown. This is located in a basement and is aroom about fifteen feet wide and some twenty feet deep. This son ofJubal from the Flowery Kingdom was about fifty-five years old and avery good-natured man. He received us with a smile, and when he wasrequested by the guide to play for us he sat down before an instrumentsomewhat like the American piano, called _Yong Chum_. The music was ofa plaintive character, and was lacking in the melody of a Broadwoodor a Steinway. Then he played on another instrument which resembleda bandore or banjo and was named _Sem Yim_. Afterwards he took up aChinese flute and played a tune, which was out of the ordinary andwas withal of a cheerful nature. He then showed us something that wasstriking and peculiar--a Chinese fiddle with two strings. The bowstrings were moved beneath the fiddle strings. The music was by nomeans such as to charm one, and you could not for a moment imaginethat you were listening to a maestro playing on a Cremona. TheChinese, while they have a reputation for philosophy after the exampleof their great men, like Confucius and Mencius, and while there arepoets of merit among them like Su and Lin, yet can not be said toexcel in musical composition and rendering. The tune with which ourChinese friend sought to entertain us on his fiddle was, "A Hot Timein the Old Town To-night. " He thought this would be agreeable to ourAmerican ears. Meanwhile I glanced around this music-room and amongother things I saw, and which interested me, were several effigies ofmen, characters in Chinese history. Some were no doubt true to lifewhile others were caricatures of the persons whom they represented. Itmight be styled an Eden Musée. 

Leaving the musician's, after giving him a suitable fee forentertaining us, we turned our footsteps towards the _Chee Kung Tong_. This is a Chinese secret society. The Chinese are wont to associatethemselves together, even if they do not mingle much with men ofother nations. They have their gatherings for social purposes andfor improvement and pastime, and, like the Anglo-Saxon and the Latinraces, they have their mystic signs and passwords. Of course we werenot permitted to enter the _Chee Kung Tong_ Hall, however much wedesired to cross its mysterious threshold. The door was well guarded, and Chinamen passing in had to give assurance that they were entitledto the privilege. On the night when the detective from PoliceHeadquarters accompanied us we made an attempt to enter a Chinesegambling house. The entrance even to this was well guarded; althoughthe sentinel unwittingly left the door open for a moment as a Chinamanwas passing in. The detective seeing his opportunity went in boldlyand bade us to follow him. In a few moments all was confusion. Weheard hurrying feet in the adjoining room, and then excited menappeared at the head of the passage way and waved their arms to andfro while they talked rapidly in high tones. Outside already somefifty men had collected together, and these were also talking andgesticulating wildly. The detective then said to us that it would bewise to retreat and leave the place lest we might meet with violence. We did so, but the uproar among the Chinese did not subside for sometime. We pitied the poor sentinel who had allowed us to slip in, forwe knew that he would be severely punished after our departure. TheChinese are noted for their gambling propensities, and there aremany gambling houses in Chinatown. This vice is one of their greatpastimes, and whenever they are not engaged in business they devotethemselves either to gambling, the amusements of the theatre, thepleasures of the restaurant, or the seductive charms of the opiumpipe. 

Later in my saunterings I went into a kind of restaurant, where I sawa number of Chinese men and boys playing cards and dominoes and dice. They went on with the games as if they were oblivious to us. I noticedthere were Chinese coins of small value on the tables, and some of theplayers were apparently winning while others were losing. The latter, however, gave no indication that they were in the least degreedisappointed. Of course, as a rule they play after their own fashion, having their own games and methods. Minister Wu, of Washington, whenasked recently if he liked our American games, replied that he didnot understand any of them. No doubt this is true of the majority ofChinamen in the United States. In thinking of the Chinese and gamblingone always recalls Bret Harte's "Plain Language From Truthful James ofTable Mountain, " popularly known as "The Heathen Chinee, " one of thebest humorous poems in the English language. You can fairly see themerry eyes of the author of the "Argonauts of '49" dancing withpleasure as he describes the game of cards between "Truthful James, ""Bill Nye" and "Ah Sin. "

 "Which we had a small game, And Ah Sin took a hand; It was euchre: the same He did not understand; But he smiled as he sat by the table With a smile that was childlike and bland. 

 "Yet the cards they were stacked In a way that I grieve, And my feelings were shocked At the state of Nye's sleeve, Which was stuffed full of aces and bowers, And the same with intent to deceive. 

 "But the hands that were played By that heathen Chinee, And the points that he made. Were quite frightful to see-- Till at last he put down the right bower, Which the same Nye had dealt unto me. 

 "Then I looked up at Nye, And he gazed upon me: And he rose with a sigh, And said, 'Can this be? We are ruined by Chinee cheap labour'-- And he went for that heathen Chinee. "

There are all kinds of jugglers in Chinatown and among them arenumerous fortune-tellers. This kind of pastime is as old as the humanrace, and you find the man who undertakes to reveal to you the secretsof the future among all peoples. The Orientals are always ready tolisten to the "neby" or the necromancer or the fakir or the wanderingminstrel, who improvises for you and sings for you the good thingswhich are in store for you. We see this tendency among our own peoplewho would have their destiny pointed out by means of a pack of cards, by the reading of the palm of the hand, in the grounds in the tea-cup, and by other signs. It was with some interest then that we glancedat the mystic words and signs which adorned the entrance to Sam WongYung's fortune-teller's place. 

Passing on, we next visited a hardware shop, where you could purchasevarious kinds of Chinese cutlery. Among other things that attracted myattention was a simple-looking Chinese fan, apparently folded up. Onexamining it I found that inside of the fan-case was a sharp knife orblade like a wide dagger. This could be carried in an unsuspectingmanner into the midst of a company of men, and in a moment, if youhad in your breast the wicked spirit of revenge, your enemy could beweltering in his life blood at your feet. It suggested all kinds oftragedies, and no doubt its invention had behind it some treacherousimpulse. The writer ventured to purchase it, but he hastens toannounce to his friends that his purposes are good and innocent. Though in the same category as the sword or dagger hidden in awalking-stick or a concealed weapon, this bloodthirsty knife willrepose harmlessly in its fan-case like a sleeping babe in his cradle. 

A Chinese boarding house next claimed our inspection. It was rather aforbidding place, but no doubt the Chinaman was well content with itsaccommodations. It was a long, rambling structure, and it seemed to meas if I were going through an underground passage in walking from roomto room. The various halls were narrow, indeed so narrow that twopersons meeting in them could not without difficulty pass each other. The beds, which brought a dollar a month, were one above another intiers or recesses in the walls. Generally a curtain of a reddish huedepended in front of them. They reminded one of the berths in a shipor of the repositories of the dead in the Roman Catacombs. Twohundred and twenty-five persons were lodged in this dark, mysteriouslabyrinth. In another house there were five hundred and fifty peoplelodged in seventy-five rooms. Possibly the owners of tenement housesin our large cities, who crowd men and women into a narrow spaceand through unpitying agents reap a rich harvest regardless of thesufferings of their fellow-beings, have been taking lessons from thelandlords of Chinatown. I said to myself, as I went to and fro throughthese narrow passages, dimly lighted with a lamp, and the lights werefew and far between, if a fire should break out, at midnight, when allare wrapt in slumber, what a holocaust would be here! And whose wouldthe sin and the shame be? There are good and ample fire-appliances forthe protection of the city, but the poor Chinamen hemmed in, as in adark prison-house, would surely be suffocated by smoke or be consumedin the flames. When the old theatre was burned down, twenty-five men, and probably more, perished, although there were means of escape fromthis building. I was told that the wood from which the largest hotelin Chinatown, its Palace hotel so to speak, was constructed in theearly days, was brought around Cape Horn, and cost $350 per thousandfeet. This was before saw-mills were erected in the forests among thefoothills and on the slopes of the Sierras. The kitchen of the bigboarding house was a novelty. It was nothing in any respect like thewell-appointed kitchens of our hotels with their great ranges and openfire-places where meats may be roasted slowly on the turnspit. On oneside of the kitchen there was a kind of stone-parapet about two feetand a half high, and on the top of this there were eight fire-places. As the Chinamen cook their own food there might be as many as eightmen here at one time. I asked the guide if they ever quarreled. Hisanswer was significant. "No! and it would be difficult to bring eightmen of any other nationality together in such close proximity withoutdifferences arising and contentions taking place; but the Chinamennever trouble each other. " There was only one man cooking at such alate hour as that in which we visited the kitchen, about half-past teno'clock at night. He used charcoal, and as the coals were fanned thefire looked like that of a forge in a blacksmith's shop. 

On our way to the Chinese Restaurant we stepped into a goldsmith'sshop. There were a few customers present, and the proprietor waitedon them with great diligence. At benches like writing desks, on whichwere tools of various descriptions, were seated some half a dozenworkmen who were busily engaged. They never looked up while westood by and examined their work, which was of a high order. Thefilagree-work was beautiful and artistic. There were numerous personalornaments, some of solid gold, others plaited. The bracelets whichthey were making might fittingly adorn the neck of a queen. I learnedthat these skilled men worked sixteen hours a day on moderate wages. Their work went into first-class Chinese bric-a-brac stores and intothe jewelry stores of the merchants who supply the rich and culturedwith their ornaments. 

But it is time that we visit the restaurant. This is located in astately building and is one of the first class. It overlooks the oldPlaza, though you enter from the street one block west of the Plaza. You ascend broad stairs, and then you find yourself in a wide room ordining hall in two sections. Here are tables round and square, andhere you are waited on by the sons of the Fiery Flying Dragon clad inwell-made tunics, sometimes of silk material. As your eye studies thefigure before you, the dress and the physiognomy, you do not fail tonotice the long pigtail, the Chinaman's glory, as a woman's delightis her long hair. The tea, which is fragrant, is served to you outof dainty cups, China cups, an evidence that the tea-drinking ofAmericans and Europeans is derived from the Celestial Empire. Thetea-plant is said, by a pretty legend, to have been formed from theeyelids of Buddha Dharma, which, in his generosity, he cut off for thebenefit of men. If you wish for sweetmeats they will be served in amost tempting way. You can also have chicken, rice, and vegetables, and fruits, after the Chinese fashion. You can eat with your fingersif you like, or use knives and forks, or, if you desire to play theChinaman, with the chop-sticks. In Chinatown the men and the women donot eat together. This is also the custom of China, and hence there isnot what we look upon as an essential element of home-life--fatherand mother and children and guests, if there be such, gathered in apleasant dining-room with the flow of edifying conversation and theexchange of courtesies. Confucius never talked when he ate, and hisdisciples affect his taciturnity at their meals. Though in scholastictimes, in European institutions and in religious communities, men keptsilence at their meals, yet the hours were enlivened by one who readfor the edification of all. The interchange of thought, however, --thespoken word one with another, at the family table, is the better way. Silence may be golden, but speech is more golden if seasoned withwisdom; and even the pleasant jest and the _bon mot_ have their officeand exercise a salutary influence on character and conduct. 

The food of Chinamen generally is very simple. Rice is the staplearticle of consumption. They like fruits and use them moderately. Theyeat things too, which would be most repulsive to the epicurean tasteof an Anglo-Saxon. Even lizards and rats and young dogs they willnot refuse. But these things are prepared in a manner to tempt theappetite. After you have partaken of your repast in the ChineseRestaurant, if you request it, tobacco pipes will be brought in, andyour waiter will fill and light them for you and your friends. You caneven, with a certain degree of caution, indulge in the opium pipe, thejoy of the Chinaman. As you draw on this pipe and take long draughtsyou lapse into a strange state, all your ills seem to vanish, and youbecome indifferent to the world. The beggar in imagination becomesa millionaire, and for the time he feels that he is in the midstof courtly splendours. But, ah! When one awakes from his dream thepleasures are turned into ashes, and the glory fades as the firesof the pipe die. _Sic transit gloria mundi_! On the walls of therestaurant were various Chinese decorations. The inevitable lanternwas in evidence. Here also were tablets with sentences in the languageof the Celestials. But there was one thing that struck me forcibly asI examined the various objects in the rooms. In the rear half of therestaurant, on the north side of the room, stood a Chinese safe, somewhat in fashion like our ordinary American safe. It was not, however, secured with the combination lock with which we are allfamiliar. It shut like a cupboard, and had eight locks on a chain asit were. Every lock represented a man whose money or whose valuableswere in the safe. Each of the eight men had a key for his own lock, different from all the other seven. When the safe is to be opened allthe eight men must be present. Is this a comment on the honesty ofthe Chinaman? Is this indicative of their lack of confidence in eachother? And yet as a house-servant the Chinaman is trusty and faithfuland honest. He is also silent as to what transpires in his master'shouse and at his employer's table. The writer has conversed withpeople who have had Chinamen in their service, he has also visitedthe homes of gentlemen where only Chinese servants are employedin domestic work, and all bear testimony to their excellence andfaithfulness and honesty. 

No visit to Chinatown would be complete without an inspection of itstheatre and a study of the audience. Here you see the Celestials _enmasse_, you behold them in their amusements. Let us repair then to theJackson Street Theatre. The building was once a hotel, now it isa place of pastime; and singularly under the same roof is a smallJoss-House, --for the Chinaman couples his amusements with hisreligion. It rather reminds one of those buildings in Christian lands, which, while used for religious services, yet have kitchens and placesfor theatrical shows and amusements under the same roof. But the playhas already begun. Indeed it began at six o'clock--and it is nownearly eleven P. M. It will, however, continue till midnight. This isthe rule; for the Chinaman does nothing by halves, and he takes hisamusement in a large quantity at a time. The theatre had galleries onthree sides and these were packed with men and women as well as themain floor. There were altogether a thousand persons present, and itwas indeed a strange sight to look into their faces, dressed alike asthey were, and all seemingly looking alike. The women were seated inthe west gallery on the right hand of the stage by themselves. Thisis an Eastern custom which Asiatic nations generally observe. Evenin their religious assemblies the women sit apart. The custom aroseprimarily from the idea that woman is inferior to man. In the Jewishtemple as well as in the synagogue, the sexes were separated. It is soto-day in most synagogues. Among the Mohammedans, too, woman is ruledout and is kept apart; and so strong is custom it even affected theChristian church in Oriental lands in the early days. You see a traceof it still in the East in church-arrangements. 

A Chinese play takes a number of weeks or even months in which tocomplete it. It may be founded on domestic life or on some historicscene. Sometimes the history of a province of the Chinese Empire isthe theme. The plays are mostly comedy. There are no grand tragedieslike those of the old Greek poets. The Chinese have had no suchwriters as Sophocles or Euripides, no such creators of plays asShakespeare, and they have no such actors as a Garrick or an Irving. We were invited to seats on the stage--which had no curtains, everything being done openly. In order to reach the stage the guideconducted us down the passageway or aisle through the midst of theaudience. Then we ascended a platform at the end of the stage and wentbehind it into a long room where the actors were putting on costumesof a fantastic shape and painting their faces with bright colouredpigments. Some of them also put on masks that would frighten a personshould he meet the wearers suddenly. The majority of the masks werecaricatures of the human face and were comical in expression. We feltquite at home on the stage at once; for here, seated on either sidewith the actors in the midst of the company, were many of our friendslay and clerical, men and women, looking on in wonder at the strangeperformance. An orchestra of six or seven members was here on theback part of the stage--and the music! It consisted of the beating ofdrums, the sounding of gongs and other outlandish noises. Now and thenabove the din you could catch the sound of a clarionet and the feeblestrains of a banjo. It was indeed pandemonium! Yet above all the noiseand confusion you could hear the high pitched voices of the actorsas they shouted and gesticulated. The audience, I noticed, was mostattentive and decorous. They were evidently well pleased with theplay; and what was quite remarkable they seemed to have neither earsnor eyes for their visitors. Of course they must have seen us, butwith an indifference that almost bordered on contempt they paid noattention to us. 

In the play one of the actors died on the stage, but the death hadnothing of the tragic or heroic in it. After a brief interval he roseup and walked off amid the merriment of the audience. 

Many Chinamen come here to spend their evening. The admission is fiftycents, which entitles one to a seat. As the play runs through sixhours at a time, they feel that they get the worth of their money. They meet their friends there also; and although they are not verydemonstrative towards each other, like the warm blooded races of Italyand Greece and Northern Europe and the United States, yet they arevery happy in the presence of men of their own race and nation. Thetheatre is about the only place where they can meet on common ground, at least in large bodies, and then, as we have already intimated, thetheatre is something more than a place of amusement in their eyes. Their forefathers liked such plays, and they believe that the spiritsof the dead are in a certain sense present to share in the enjoymentsof men in the body. 

Only men and boys act on the Chinese stage. There are no women, thoughthe female sex is personated. This has its advantages. Woman is keptout of harm; she is not subject to the indignities and temptationswhich beset her among other peoples who employ her services. Of coursethere are good and virtuous women on the stage--very many, I trust!But it will be admitted that the life of an actress is one of trial. She must of necessity be brought into intercourse with an elementwhose moral ideals are not the loftiest, and she must have unusualstrength of character to preserve her integrity. She can do it! Ibelieve that men and women can resist temptation in all spheres, inall vocations of life; I have great faith in humanity, especially whensustained by divine helps; but we must not subject the bow to too muchtension lest it break. The personating of characters which have inthem a spice of wickedness, the taking of the part in a play whichrepresents the downfall of a virtuous person, the setting forth of thepassions of love and hatred, must in time produce a powerful effect onthe mind of a young woman, and there is danger that the neophyte onthe stage will be contaminated with the base things of life beforestrength of character is developed. The Chinese are to be commended inthis respect, whatever their motive in excluding their women from thestage. The reproduction of Greek plays, in some of our universities, where only men take the parts, shows what could be done among us onthe stage, and successfully. 

The Chinese actors whom I saw, exhibited a great deal of human naturein their acting. There was the full display of the human passions; andthey entered into their work with zest as if it were real life. Someof the men in the audience were smoking cigars, others cigarettes. TheAsiatic has a fondness for cigarettes. You see the men of the Eastsmoking everywhere, whether in Syria, or Egypt, or Nubia, or Arabia. And is it not true that men are much the same the world over, in theirpastimes and pursuits, their loves and their pleasures?

CHAPTER X

THE JOSS-HOUSE, CHINESE IMMIGRATION AND CHINESE THEOLOGY

In Chinatown--Conception of God--The Joss House--Chinese Mottoes--TheJoss a Chinaman--Greek and Egyptian Ideas of God--Different Types ofMadonnas--Chinese Worship and Machine Prayers--The Joss-House andthe Christian Church--Chinese Immigration--Chinamen in the UnitedStates--A Plague Spot--Fire Crackers and Incense Sticks--The Lion andthe Hen--The Man with Tears of Blood--Filial Piety--The Joss--Originof the World--Creation of Man--Spirits of the Dead--AncestralRites--The Chinese Emperor--What Might Have Been--The Hand of God. 

Our study of Chinatown and the civilisation of the country of theYellow Dragon, as seen in the City of the Golden Gate, has thus farbrought us in contact with the social and business life of the Chineseand their amusements; but we are now to visit one of their temples ofworship, the Joss-House. And here the real man will be revealed; forit is in religious services and ceremonies and beliefs that we get atrue knowledge of a race or a nation. The conception of God which youhave is the key to your character. If your views of Deity are low andignoble you will not achieve any greatness in the world; but if on theother hand you invest the Being Whom you worship with noble attributesand look upon Him as just and holy, a God of mercy and judgment, yourbreast will be animated with grand thoughts and lofty ideals willimpel you to the performance of heroic deeds. The word Joss, which weuse for a Chinese idol or god, seems to be derived from the Portugese, Dios, or rather it is the Pidgin English of Dios. A Joss-House then isa Chinese idol or god-house. We are now standing before such a placeof worship. This is on the corner of Kearney and Pine Streets, andis built of brick, and as we look up we see that it is three storieshigh. There is a marble slab over the entrance with an inscriptionwhich tells us that this building is the Sze-Yap Asylum. Let us enter. The lower story, we find, is given up to business of one kind oranother connected with the Sze-Yap Immigration Society. This, we note, is richly adorned with valuable tapestries and silken hangings, andthe rich colours attract the eye at once. If you wish to sit down youcan, and enjoy the novelty of the scene. For here are easy chairswhich invite you to rest. In your inspection of the place you ventureto peer into the room back of this, and you perceive at once thatthere is the lounging place of the establishment. You see men oncouches perfectly at ease and undisturbed by your presence, smokingcigarettes or opium, the Chinaman's delight. If you desire topenetrate further into the building you will come to the kitchen wherethe dainty dishes of the Chinese are cooked; but you retreat andascend a staircase in the southeast corner of the first room, andsoon you are in the Joss-House proper. This second story is devotedexclusively to religious purposes. The room to which you are nowintroduced is about thirty feet square, and as you look around youperceive the hangings on the walls and the rich decorations of theceiling. Here are placards on the walls, which, your guide will tellyou, if you are not conversant with the Chinese tongue, bear on themsentences from the writings of Confucius, Mencius, and others, withexhortations to do nothing against integrity or virtue, to venerateancestors and to be careful not to injure one's reputation in the eyesof Americans;--all of which is most excellent advice, and worthy ofthe attention of men everywhere. You then cast your eyes on the gildedspears, and standards and battle-axes standing in the corners of theTemple, and as you look up you almost covet the great Chinese lanternssuspended from the ceiling. Your eyes are finally directed to thealtar, near which, and on it, are flowers artificial and natural. Atthe rear in a kind of a niche in the Joss or god. The figure of thisdeity was like a noble Chinaman, well-dressed, with a moustache, andhaving in his eyes a far-away expression. He wore a tufted crown, which made him look somewhat war-like. It is but natural that thisJoss should be a blind man. The Greek gods and goddesses have Greekcountenances. The idolatrous nations fashion their deities after theirown likeness. And what are these but deified human beings? It is so inGreek and Roman mythology. The Egyptian Osiris is an Egyptian. It istrue that some of the ancients outside of Hebrew Revelation had abetter conception of God than others. Even in Egypt where birds andbeasts and creeping things received divine honors there were scholarsand poets who had an exalted idea of the Deity, as witness the Poemsof Pentaur. This is true also of some of the Greek Poets who had adeep insight into divine things. It is not a little interesting tonote also that artists of different nations paint the Madonna afterthe style of their own women. Very few of the pictures in the greatart galleries are after the style of face which you see in the Orient. Hence there are Dutch Madonnas, and Italian and French and Englishtypes. There were no worshippers in the Joss-House at the hour when Ivisited it. Worship is not a prominent feature of Chinese religiouslife. The good Chinaman comes once a year at least, perhaps oftener, and burns a bit of perforated paper before his Joss, in order to showthat he is not forgetful of his deity. This bit of paper is aboutsix inches long and two inches wide. He also puts printed or writtenpapers in a machine which is run like a clock. Well, this is an easyway to say prayers. And are there not many prayers offered, notmerely by Chinamen, that are machine prayers, soulless, heartless, meaningless, and faithless, and which bring no answer? But how simple, how beautiful, how sublime, the golden Prayer which the Divine Mastertaught His disciples! Lord, teach us how to pray. If the noble Liturgyof the Church is properly rendered, --for it is the expansion of theLord's Prayer, --there will be no machine-praying, and the answer toprayer will be rich and abundant. The contrast between the worshipof the Joss and the worship of the true God in a Christian Church isstriking and affords reflection. The former is of the earth earthy, the latter transports the devout worshipper to the throne of the MostHigh. There is no fear that the religion of the Joss-House will everusurp the religion of the Christian altar. Men have expressed the fearthat if the Chinese came in overwhelming numbers to America they wouldendanger the Christian faith by their idolatry. But would this betrue? Has Christianity anything to dread? What impression has theJoss-House made all these years on the life of San Francisco outsideof Chinatown? None whatever, except to make the reflecting man valuethe Christian faith with its elevating influences and its blessedhopes all the more. It is a mistake then to exclude Chinamen from ourshores on the ground that they will do harm to Christianity. On thecontrary the Church will do them good. The Gospel is the leaven whichwill be the salvation of heathen men. Did it not go forth into theGentile world on its glorious mission, and did it not convert manynations in the first ages? Has it lost its potency to-day? No! It isas powerful as ever to win men from their idols and their evil lives. The question of Chinese immigration is a large one. It has its socialand its political aspects. It is found all along the Pacific coastthat Chinamen make good and faithful servants. The outcry against themas competing with white laborers and artisans is more the result ofpolitical agitation for political purposes than good judgment. Wherethey have been displaced on farms, in mills, in warehouses, indomestic life, white men and women have not been found to take theirplaces and do the work which they can do so well. Under the Geary Actimmigration has been restricted and the numbers of the Chinese in theUnited States have been gradually decreasing. In the year 1854 therewere only 3, 000 Chinese in the City of San Francisco; but even thenthere was agitation against them. It was Governor Bigler who calledthem "coolies, " and this term they repudiated with the same abhorrencewhich the negro or black man has for the term "nigger. " They kept onincreasing, however, until in 1875 there were in the whole State ofCalifornia 130, 000. Of this number 30, 000 were in San Francisco. To-day there are only about 46, 000 in California and there are notmore than thirty thousand of these in the City of San Francisco. Thereare only 110, 000 Chinese altogether in the United States proper. Eventhe most ardent exclusionist can see from this that there is nothingto dread as to an overwhelming influx that will threaten the integrityand existence of our civilisation. The labour-question and therace-question and the international question, aroused by the presenceof the Chinese within our borders, will from time to time causeagitation and provoke discussion and heated debate and evoke oratoryof one kind or another; but the question which should be uppermost inthe minds of wise statesmen is how shall they be assimilated to ourlife? How shall we make them Christians? The answer will be thebest solution of the whole matter, if it has in mind the spiritualinterests of the Chinaman and of all other heathen on our shores. There is indeed a plague spot in Chinatown, the social fester, which can and ought to be removed. But this is true of American SanFrancisco as well as of Chinatown. What, we may ask, are the men andwomen of as beautiful a city as ever sat on Bay or Lake or Sea-Shoreor River, doing for its purgation, for its release from moraldefilement and "garments spotted with the flesh?" This indeed is oneof the searching questions to be asked of any other City, such as NewYork, Chicago, St. Louis, London, Paris, Cairo, Constantinople, aswell as San Francisco. Among the other noticeable things in theJoss-House were two immense lanterns, as much for ornament as forutility. Then I saw a big drum and a bell, used in some of theprocessions of the Temple; for the Chinese take special delight innoises, indeed the more noise the better satisfied they are. Duringmy visit some of the Joss-House attendants were shooting off firecrackers; and I was told that this was an acceptable offering to theChinese god. One who was selling small, slender incense sticks, saidthat you could burn them to drive away the devil, an excellent purposecertainly. He also said they were good to keep moths away. Doubtlessin the Chinese mind there is a connection between moths and evilspirits; but you smile at all such puerilities. They belong to thechildhood of the world and not to the beginning of the twentiethcentury. Among other creatures which they venerate are chickens andlions. They invest the lion with divine attributes on account of hismajesty and power. But the chicken? Well, it is a gentle creature. Itis the embodiment of motherhood and it speaks of care, not only tothe Chinaman's understanding, but to ours also. The Divine Teacher, greater than Confucius, said: "How often would I have gathered thychildren together as a hen gathereth her chickens under her wings!"Will China, now waking out of the sleep of centuries, allow Him togather her children together under the wings of His Cross? "And yewould not. " Oh, what pathos in these few words! But doubtless theywill. Many during the war of the Boxers were "gathered" unto Him, emulating the zeal and courage and faith of the martyrs of the earlydays of the Church. As the hen is sacred in the eyes of the Chinaman, sacred as the peacock to Juno or the ibis to the Egyptians, they swearby her head, and an oath thus taken may not be broken. 

One of the images which I saw in the Joss-House was pointed out asthe God of the Door; and how suggestive this title and this office!Another figure, on the right side of the altar, which attracted myattention particularly was that of Toi Sin. He was dressed somewhatlike a mandarin, and his head was bared, while tears as of blood wereon his cheeks. He lived some three hundred years after the Advent ofChrist; and owing to his disobedience to his parents, for which he waspunished in his conscience, and otherwise, he grieved himself to deathand wept tears of blood. His image, I was told, is placed in allTemples as a warning to children. It is a forceful lesson, and it is atimely warning. The one thing that is characteristic of a Chinaman ishis filial piety. This filial piety was admired in all ages. Itwas inculcated in the old Hebrew Law and enforced with weightyconsiderations. It was a virtue among the Greeks as well as otherpeoples of the Gentile world; and I wonder not that when the heroeswho captured Troy saw Aeneas carrying his aged father Anchises on hisshoulders and leading his son, the puer Ascanius, by the hand, out ofthe burning city, they cheered him and allowed him to escape withhis precious burden. A Chinaman is taught by precept and example tovenerate his parents and to give them divine honors after death. Should a Chinese child be disobedient he would be punished severelyby the bamboo or other instrument, and he would bring on himself thewrath of all his family. This strong sense of filial piety has donemore for the stability and perpetuity of the Chinese Empire than oughtelse. It is a great element of strength and it leads to respect forcustoms and to the observance of maxims. Especially are burial placesheld in sacred esteem, and as they contain the ashes of the fathersthey must not be disturbed or desecrated. In this respect we mightemulate the Chinese, for they are a perfect illustration of theold precept, "Honour thy father and thy mother, " which, in a busy, independent age, there is danger of forgetting. But we look with nolittle interest on the Joss above the altar, the Chinese god. His nameis Kwan Rung, and I am informed that he was born about two hundredyears after the beginning of the Christian era. Such is the person whois worshipped here. That he may not be hungry food is placed beforehim at times, and also water to drink. It is a poor, weak human godafter all, a dying, dead man. How different the Creator of the endsof the earth, Who fainteth not neither is weary! The Chinese have noconception of the true God. They cannot conceive of the beauty andpower and compassion of Jesus Christ until they are brought into thelight of the Gospel. But what is Chinese theology? What do they teachabout the origin of the world and man and his destiny. The scholarstell us that the world was formed by the duel powers Yang and Yin, whowere in turn influenced by their own creations. First the heavens werebrought into being, then the earth. From the co-operation of Yang andYin the four seasons were produced, and the seasons gave birth to thefruits and flowers of the earth. The dual principles also broughtforth fire and water, and the sun and moon and stars were originated. The idea of a Creator in the Biblical sense is far removed from theChinese mind. Their first man, named Pwanku, after his appearance, wasset to work to mould the Chaos out of which he was born. He had alsoto chisel out the earth which was to be his abode. Behind him throughthe clefts made by his chisel and mallet are sun and moon and stars, and at his right hand, as companions, may be seen the Dragon, theTortoise and the Phoenix as well as the Unicorn. His labours extendover a period of eighteen thousand years. He grew in stature at therate of six feet every day, and when his work was finished he died. The mountains were formed from his head, his breath produced the wind, and the moisture of his lips the clouds. His voice is the thunder, his limbs are the four poles, his veins the rivers, his sinews thewave-like motions of the earth, his flesh the fields, his beard thestars, his skin and hair herbs and trees, his teeth bones, his marrowmetals, rocks and precious stones, his sweat rain, and the insectsclinging to his body become men and women. Ah, how applicable thememorable line of Horace!

 Parturiunt montes, nascetur ridiculus mus. 

In regard to the spirits of the dead the Chinese believe that theylinger still in the places which were their homes while alive onearth, and that they can be moved to pleasure or pain by what they seeor hear. These spirits of the departed are delighted with offeringsrendered to them and take umbrage at neglect. Believing also that thespirits can help or injure men they pray to them and make offerings tothem. From this we can understand the meaning and object of ancestralrites. In these rites they honour and assist the dead as if they werealive still. Food, clothing and money are offered, as they believethey eat and drink and have need of the things of this life. Eventheatrical exhibitions and musical entertainments are provided on thepresumption that they are gratified with what pleased them while inthe body. Now as all past generations are to be provided for, theChinese Pantheon contains myriads of beings to be worshipped. But think, what a burden it becomes to the poor man who triesconscientiously to do his duty to the departed!

Now this ancestral worship leads to the deduction that it is anunfilial thing not to marry and beget sons by whom the line ofdescendants may be continued. Otherwise the line would cease, and thespirits would have none to care for them or worship them. 

The Chinese view of rulers or Kings is also striking. According to thebelief prevalent regarding government, Heaven and Earth were withoutspeech. These created man who should represent them. This man is noneother than the Emperor their vicegerent. He is constituted ruler overall people. This accounts for three things; first, the superioritywhich the Chinese emperors assume over the kings and rulers of othercountries; secondly, for the long-lived empire of China, it beingrebellion against Heaven to lift up one's self against the Emperor;and in the third place it explains to us why divine honours are paidto him. He is a sacred person. He is in a certain sense a god. Theview is similar to that entertained by the Roman Emperors, who, ininscriptions and on coins employed the term Deus, and at times exacteddivine honours. As we turn from the Joss-House and walk away from thisbit of heathendom in the heart of an active, stirring, prosperous, great American city with its Christian civilisation and its ChristianChurches and its Christian homes, we cannot but ask ourselves whatwould have been the history of the Pacific States, of California withits nearly eight hundred miles of coast, if the Chinese had settledhere centuries ago? If they had been navigators and colonizers likethe Phoenicians of old, like the Greeks and Romans, if they had hada Columbus, a Balboa, a Cabrillo, a Drake, the whole history of thecountry west of the Rocky Mountains might have been totally different. Millions of Chinamen instead of thousands might now be in possessionof that great region of our land, and great cities like Canton andFuchau, Pekin and Tientsin, might rise up on the view instead ofSan Diego and Los Angeles, Sacramento and San Francisco, with theiridolatry and peculiar life and customs. Another question may be askedhere by way of speculation. What would have been the effect of Chineseoccupation of the Pacific coast on the Indians of all the regionwest of the Rocky Mountains? Would the followers of Confucius haveincorporated them into their nationality, supplanted them, or causedthem to vanish out of sight? What problems these for the ethnologist!Doubtless there would have been intermarriages of the races with newgenerations of commingled blood. And what would have been the resultof this? There is a story which I have read somewhere, that longyears ago a Chinese junk was driven by the winds to the shores ofCalifornia, and that a Chinese merchant on board took an Indian maidento wife and bore her home to the Flowery Kingdom, and that fromthis marriage was descended the famous statesman Li Hung Chang. But whatever the fortunes of the Indians, or the Chinese in theirappropriation of the Pacific coast, it would not have been soadvantageous to civilisation, to the progress of humanity. It wouldhave been loss, and a hindrance to the Anglo-Saxon race destined nowto rule the world and to break down every barrier and to set up thestandard of the Cross everywhere for the glory of the true God. Hishand is apparent in it all. He directs the great movements of historyfor the welfare of mankind, and He controls the destinies of nationsfor the advancement of His Kingdom!

CHAPTER XI

THE GENERAL CONVENTION OF 1901

First Services--Drake's Chaplain--Flavel Scott Mines--Bishop Kip--Growthof the Church in California--The General Convention in San Francisco--AWestern Sermon--Personnel of the Convention--DistinguishedNames--Subjects Debated--Missions of the Church--Apportionment Plan--TheWoman's Auxiliary--The United Offering--Missionary Meeting in Mechanics'Pavilion--College Reunions--Zealous Men--A Dramatic Scene--ClosingService--Object Lesson--A Revelation to California--Examples of theChurch's Training--Mrs. Twing--John I. Thompson--Golden Gate ofParadise. 

As we turn away from Chinatown, with its Oriental customs and itspeculiar life and its religion, we naturally give ourselves up toreflection on the mission and character of the Christian Church. While we recognise the good that is done by "all who profess and callthemselves Christians, " and thank God for every good work done in thename and for the sake of Jesus Christ, we may more especially considerthe development of the Episcopal Church, pure and Apostolic in itsorigin, on the Pacific coast. We must ever keep in mind the servicesheld in this region as far back as the year 1579, by Chaplain FrancisFletcher, under Admiral Drake, when the old Prayer Book of theChurch of England was used on the shores of the Golden Gate, a factcommemorated, as we have already noted in a previous chapter, bythe Prayer Book Cross erected by the late George W. Childs, ofPhiladelphia, in Golden Gate Park. This was prophetic of bright daysto come. Time would roll on and bring its marvellous changes, butthe truth of God would remain the same, and the Church would stillflourish and the liturgy of our forefathers would hold its place inthe affections of the people of all ranks, as at this day. Drake andFletcher could hardly have realised, however, that the good seed whichthey then sowed, though it might remain hidden from view for manygenerations, would in time spring-up and yield a glorious harvest. We are not unmindful, of course, of the labours and teachings of theFranciscans among the California Indians; but when this order ofthings passed away and the Anglo-Saxon succeeded the Spaniard and theMexican, it was but natural that the old Church which had made GreatBritain what it was and is, aye, and moulded our civilisation onthis continent, should seek a foothold in the beautiful lands by thePacific and on the slopes of the Sierras. Many of the Church's sonswere among the thousands who sought California in quest of gold, andthese Argonauts she would follow whithersoever they went. They mustnot be left alone to wrestle with the temptations which would besetthem far away from home and the hallowing influences of sacredinstitutions and religious services. Hence it is that we behold thatzealous missionary of the Church, the Rev. Flavel Scott Mines, goingforth to seek out Christ's sheep in San Francisco and elsewhere, andto gather them into the fold of the Good Shepherd. His history is mostinteresting and instructive. He was the son of Rev. John Mines, D. D. , a Presbyterian clergyman of Virginia, and was born in Leesburg, Va. , on the 31st of December, 1811. In 1830 he was graduated from PrincetonTheological Seminary, and soon after he became pastor of the LaightStreet Presbyterian Church, New York city, where he served withdistinction until he resigned his charge in 1841. In 1842 he tookorders in the Church, of which to the day of his death he was a loyalson. Reasons for becoming a churchman and the motives which impelledhim are set forth in a striking and graphic manner in his monumentalbook, "A Presbyterian Clergyman Looking For the Church, " a work ofmarked ability and of great utility. It had a large sale in his day, and it is still sought after as a book of permanent value. It is astrong plea for Apostolic Order and Liturgical Worship, and it is safeto say that it has been instrumental in leading many an inquirer intothe "old paths" and the Faith as "once delivered to the Saints. " TheRev. Mr. Mines, after his ordination, became assistant minister in St. George's Church, New York city, under Rev. Dr. James Milnor. From herehe went to the Danish West Indies and became Rector of St. Paul'sParish, Fredericksted, St. Croix, about forty miles square andembracing almost half of the island. Owing to failing health hereturned, after many arduous labours, to the United States, and becameRector of St. Luke's Church, Rossville, Staten Island. He went finallyto San Francisco, where he preached for the first time on July 8th, 1849, in the midst of the gold excitement, and on July 22nd of thissame year, became the founder of Trinity Parish, where his honouredname is still held in grateful remembrance, not merely by some of thetwenty-two original members, who still live, but by their children andgrandchildren. The first Trinity Church was located on the northeastcorner of Post and Powell Streets. It was a modest building, which, in1867, gave place to an edifice, Gothic in design, costing $85, 000. Afew years ago the present Trinity Church was erected on the northeastcorner of Bush and Gough Streets, with ample grounds for parishbuildings. This sacred edifice is one of the finest and largestchurches on the Pacific coast, and is a combination of Spanish andByzantine styles of architecture. It was designed by A. Paige Brown, who was the architect of the California building at the ColumbianExposition, in Chicago, and also of the new Bethesda Church, SaratogaSprings, N. Y. I have thus dwelt with particularity on the Rev. FlavelScott Mines's life and work, because Trinity Parish is the mother ofall the other Parishes in California, and because here in this newedifice, where there is a tablet to his memory, and where he isburied, the General Convention was held in 1901, a council of theChurch which will ever be memorable. It is well also to rescue fromoblivion the memory of a man who laid the foundations of the Church inCalifornia on the enduring principles of the ancient creeds. May wenot learn also from the facts of his life, which show how faithful andaccomplished he was, that the men who are to be heralds of the Crossin new fields are to be the ablest and the best equipped that theChurch can furnish? Other early missionaries of the Church who may benamed here are the Rev. Dr. Ver Mehr, who arrived in San Franciscoin September, 1849, and in 1850 founded Grace Parish; and Rev. JohnMorgan, who organised Christ Church Parish in 1853; and Rev. Dr. Christopher B. Wyatt, who succeeded Mines in Trinity Church. There isanother also whose name is interwoven in the history of the Church'smission in California. It is that of Right Rev. William Ingraham Kip, D. D. , LL. D. , who was consecrated first Bishop of California, October28, 1853. Few, if any, of his day, were better fitted in scholarship, zeal, and other gifts and qualifications for his work than he, who isthe famous author of "The Double Witness of the Church, " a book whichhas largely moulded the faith and practice of the churchmen of thisgeneration. Bishop Kip's immortal work and Mines's incomparable volumedeserve to be ranked together, and though they differ widely in theirmanner of presenting the Old Faith, yet are they one in purpose. Is itnot a little singular, or is it not rather a happy coincidence, thatthe two foremost pioneers of the Church's work in California shouldthus be the authors of works which are fit to take rank with theApologiai of the early Christian writers or the "Apologia pro EcclesiaAnglicana" of Bishop Jewell?

Mines went to his rest in 1852, just in the prime of life, while Kipwas spared to the Church until 1893, witnessing its great increase andreaping the abundant harvest from that early sowing. The growth isseen to-day in the three dioceses in the State. California, the parentdiocese, with San Francisco as its chief city, Right Rev. WilliamFord Nichols, D. D. , Bishop, has its eighty-one clergymen, with itseighty-six parishes and missions, and 8, 585 communicants. Los Angeles, Right Rev. Joseph Horsfall Johnson, D. D. , Bishop, has its forty-nineclergy, with its fifty-six parishes and missions, and 4, 577communicants; while Sacramento, Right Rev. William Hall Moreland, D. D. , Bishop, has thirty-four clergymen with seventy parishes andmissions, and a list of 2, 556 communicants. All this, however, is notthe full evidence of the strength of the Church on the Pacific coast. There are the church schools and hospitals and other agencies forgood, and there are the blessed influences which the Church, withher stability and order and work, is exerting among the people. Theresults arising from the presence of the members of the GeneralConvention will be gratifying. Everywhere throughout the State ofCalifornia this august body was hailed with a glad welcome, and SanFrancisco and her suburban towns did everything possible to makechurchmen feel at home. The attendance at services was large, and adeep and an abiding interest was enkindled. It was said by the pressand by leading citizens, that while many bodies had met in SanFrancisco from all parts of the land, none had ever surpassed instandard that of the Convention or even equalled it in dignity, scholarship, eloquence and other noted characteristics. The newspapersof the city, such as the _Daily Call_ and the _Chronicle_, gaveup large space to the services, debates and other features of theConvention, and they were always complimentary in their comments onindividuals as well as on receptions and sermons and addresses. Thekeynote of the Convention was struck by the Right Rev. Benjamin WistarMorris, D. D. , Bishop of Oregon, in his sermon based on St. Luke, chapter v, verse 4:--"Now when He had left speaking, He said untoSimon, Launch out into the deep, and let down your nets for adraught. " The discourse was in every sense what the venerable prelatehad said it would be, a "Western" one, and it was a powerful pleasetting forth the urgent necessity of extending and supporting theChurch in her missionary efforts in the Pacific coast States. 

The attendance of members in the House of Deputies was unusuallylarge, and while some familiar faces were missed, like Dean Hoffman, of the General Theological Seminary; Rev. Dr. Morgan Dix, of TrinityParish, New York; Rev. Dr. Edward A. Renouf, of Keene, N. H. ; Rev. Dr. W. W. Battershall, of Albany, N. Y. ; Mr. Spencer Trask, of Yaddo, Saratoga Springs, N. Y. ; Mr. Louis Hasbrouck, of Ogdensburgh, N. Y. ; Mr. G. P. Keese, of Cooperstown, N. Y. ; and Judge Robert Earl, of Herkimer, N. Y. , yet the personnel of the Convention was up to the usualstandard. The new deputies, clerical and lay, felt at home at once, and some of them made good reputations for themselves in debate and incommittee-work. It would seem invidious, perhaps, to single out anyone deputy more than another, when all excelled, yet the names of someof the representative clergymen and laymen of the Church may justly bementioned, as for example, Rev. Dr. John S. Lindsay, of Boston, Mass. , the distinguished and well-balanced President of the House; Rev. Dr. Arthur Lawrence, of Stockbridge, Mass. ; Rev. Dr. Reese F. Alsop, ofBrooklyn, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. J. Houston Eccleston, of Baltimore, Md. ; Rev. Dr. Samuel D. McConnell, of Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. J. S. Hodges, ofBaltimore, Md. ; Rev. Dr. George Hodges, of Cambridge, Mass. ; Rev. Dr. Cameron Mann, of Kansas City, Mo. ; Rev. Dr. James W. Ashton, of Olean, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. Robert J. Nevin, of Rome, Italy; Rev. Dr. John Fulton, of _The Church Standard_, Philadelphia, Pa. ; Rev. Dr. William B, Bodine, of Philadelphia, Pa. ; Rev. Dr. Charles S. Olmstead, of Bala, Pa. ; Rev. Dr. George McClellan Fiske, of Providence, R. I. ; Rev. Dr. Edgar A. Enos, of Troy, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. J. Lewis Parks and Rev. Dr. William M. Grosvenor of New York; Rev. Dr. R. M. Kirby, of Potsdam, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. John H. Egar, of Rome, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. George D. Silliman, of Stockport, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. John Brainard, of Auburn, N. Y. ;Rev. Dr. H. Martyn Hart, of Denver, Col. ; Rev. Dr. Edwin S. Lines, ofNew Haven, Conn; Rev. Dr. Daniel C. Roberts, of Concord, N. H. ; Rev. Dr. Alfred B. Baker, of Princeton, N. J. ; Rev. George S. Bennitt, ofJersey City, N. J. ; Rev. Dr. J. Isham Bliss, of Burlington, Vt. ; Rev. John Henry Hopkins, of Chicago, Ill. ; Rev. Dr. Campbell Fair, ofOmaha, Neb. ; Rev. John Williams, of Omaha, Neb. ; Rev. Dr. Frederick W. Clampett, of San Francisco, Cal; Rev. R. G. Foute, of San Francisco, Cal. ; Rev. Dr. Angus Crawford, of Alexandria Seminary, Va. ; Rev. Dr. Randolph H. McKim, of Washington, D. C. ; Rev. Dr. FrederickP. Davenport, of Memphis, Tenn. ; Rev. Dr. Alex. Mackay-Smith, ofWashington, D. C. ; Rev. Henry B. Restarick, of San Diego, Cal. ; Rev. B. W. R. Tayler, of Los Angeles, Cal. ; Rev. Dr. David H. Greer, of NewYork; Rev. Dr. William R. Huntington, of New York; Rev. Dr. Beverly D. Tucker, of Norfolk, Va. ; Rev. Dr. Carl E. Grammer, of Norfolk, Va. ;Rev. Dr. William T. Manning, of Nashville, Tenn. ; Rev. Frederick A. DeRosset, of Cairo, Ill. ; Rev. Richard P. Williams, of Washington, D. C. ;Rev. Dr. Henry W. Nelson, of Geneva, N. Y. ; Rev. Dr. John Kershaw, ofCharleston, S. C. ; Rev. Dr. Herman C. Duncan, of Alexandria, La. ; Rev. Dr. John K. Mason, of Louisville, Ky. ; Rev. Dr. Walter R. Gardner, ofAlgoma, Wis. ; Rev. Dr. George C. Hall, of Wilmington, Del; Rev. J. L. McKim, of Milford, Del. ; Rev. Dr. Henry L. Jones, of Wilkesbarre, Pa. ;Rev. Dr. George C. Foley, of Williamsport, Pa. ; Rev. Dr. StorrsO. Seymour, of Litchfield, Conn. ; Rev. Dr. Charles E. Craik, ofLouisville, Ky. ; Rev. C. S. Leffingwell, of Bar Harbour, Me. ; Rev. Dr. Rufus W. Clark, of Detroit, Mich. ; Rev. Dr. Lucius Waterman, ofClaremont, N. H. ; Rev. Dr. Henry H. Oberly, of Elizabeth, N. J. ; Rev. Julian E. Ingle, of Henderson, N. C. ; Rev. Dr. Charles L. Hutchins, ofConcord, Mass. , the efficient Secretary, always patient and courteous;Rev. Dr. Henry Anstice, of Philadelphia, Pa. ; Rev. Edward W. Worthington, of Cleveland, Ohio, and Rev. William C. Prout, ofHerkimer, N. Y. , Assistant Secretaries; Mr. George M. Darrow, ofMurfreesboro, Tenn. ; Dr. William Seward Webb, of Shelburne, Vt. ; Mr. Henry E. Pellew, of Washington, D. C. ; Mr. Linden H. Morehouse, of Milwaukee, Wis. , of _The Young Churchman_ Co. ; Judge James M. Woolworth, of Omaha, Neb. ; Mr. Burton Mansfield, of New Haven, Conn. ;Hon. Cortlandt Parker, of Newark, N. J. ; Judge Charles Andrews, ofSyracuse, N. Y. ; Mr. John I. Thompson, of Troy, N. Y. ; Mr. LesliePell-Clarke, of Springfield Centre, N. Y. ; Hon. George R. Fairbanks, ofFernandina, Fla. ; Judge L. Bradford Prince, of Santa Fé, N. M. ; Hon. Francis A. Lewis, of Philadelphia, Pa. ; Hon. Francis L. Stetson, ofNew York; Mr. George C. Thomas, of Philadelphia, Pa. , Treasurer of theBoard of Missions; Hon. W. Bayard Cutting, of New York; Judge John H. Stiness, of Providence, R. I. ; Hon. Joseph Packard, of Baltimore, Md. ;Hon. Charles G. Saunders, of Lawrence, Mass. ; Hon. Arthur J. C. Sowdon, and Hon. Robert Treat Paine, of Boston, Mass; Mr. William B. Hooper, of San Francisco; Mr. Henry P. Baldwin, of Detroit, Mich. ; Mr. FrancisJ. McMaster, of St. Louis, Mo. ; Mr. William H. Lightner, of St. Paul, Minn. ; Mr. Richard H. Battle, of Raleigh, N. C. ; Hon. G. S. Gadsden, of Charleston, S. C. ; Mr. George Truesdell, of Washington, D. C. ; Mr. George M. Marshall, of Salt Lake City, Utah; and Mr. Joseph Wilmer, of Alexandria Seminary, Va. There is one other name which must notbe omitted, that of Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan, of New York city, who, notwithstanding his vast business interests, was in his seat from theopening of the Convention until the closing session, watching all thedebates and deliberations with the deepest interest, and serving onvarious important committees. Many of the members of the Convention, too, were deeply indebted to him for a gracious hospitality dispensedby him in his magnificent temporary home on California Avenue. 

To name the Bishops who in one way and another made their presencefelt in their own House, in the Board of Missions and elsewhere, atmeetings and in services, it would be necessary to speak of all whowere in attendance on the Convention. Those who were specially active, however, were Bishop William Croswell Doane, of Albany; Bishop HenryCodman Potter, of New York; Bishop Daniel Sylvester Tuttle, ofMissouri; Bishop Benjamin Wistar Morris, of Oregon; Bishop ThomasUnderwood Dudley, of Kentucky; Bishop Ozi William Whitaker, ofPennsylvania; Bishop Cortlandt Whitehead, of Pittsburg; Bishop JohnScarborough, of New Jersey; Bishop George Franklin Seymour, ofSpringfield; Bishop William David Walker, of Western New York; BishopLeighton Coleman, of Delaware; Bishop Samuel David Ferguson, of CapePalmas; Bishop Ellison Capers, of South Carolina; Bishop TheodoreNevin Morrison, of Iowa; Bishop Lewis William Burton, of Lexington;Bishop Sidney Catlin Partridge, of Kyoto; Bishop Peter Trimble Rowe, of Alaska; Bishop William Frederick Taylor, of Quincy; Bishop WilliamCrane Gray, of Southern Florida; Bishop Ethelbert Talbot, of CentralPennsylvania; Bishop James Steptoe Johnston, of Western Texas; BishopAnson Rogers Graves, of Laramie; Bishop Edward Robert Atwill, of WestMissouri; Bishop William N. McVickar, of Rhode Island; Bishop WilliamLawrence, of Massachusetts; Bishop Arthur C. A. Hall, of Vermont;Bishop William Andrew Leonard, of Ohio; Bishop James Dow Morrison, ofDuluth; Bishop Henry Yates Satterlee, of Washington; Bishop Charles C. Grafton, of Fond du Lac; Bishop Abiel Leonard, of Salt Lake; BishopIsaac Lea Nicholson, of Milwaukee; Bishop Cleland Kinlock Nelson, ofGeorgia, and Bishop Thomas F. Gailor, of Tennessee. It is needless tosay that Right Rev. Dr. William Ford Nichols, of California, who wasthe host of the Convention, was prominent in all gatherings, and thathis guiding hand was seen in all the admirable arrangements made formeetings and services. He was ably seconded by Bishop Johnson, of LosAngeles, and Bishop Moreland, of Sacramento. Some faces were sadlymissed, as for example, Bishop Niles, of New Hampshire; BishopHuntington, of Central New York; Bishop Worthington, of Nebraska;Bishop Spaulding, of Colorado; and the Presiding Bishop, Right Rev. Thomas March Clark, of Rhode Island. The Secretary of the House ofBishops, Rev. Dr. Samuel Hart, of Middletown, Conn. , was a conspicuousfigure in the Convention, and he and his assistants, Rev. Dr. GeorgeF. Nelson, of New York, and Rev. Thomas J. Packard, of Washington, were often seen in the House of Deputies, bearing official messages. 

In addition to the regular business of the Convention, there werediscussions of a high order on such matters as Amendments to theConstitution, the enactment of New Canons, Admission of New Dioceses, Marriage and Divorce, and Marginal Readings in the Bible. The Reportof the Commission on Marginal Readings was finally adopted, with somemodifications, after an animated debate, to the great satisfaction ofmany who felt the need of such a help in reading the Holy Scriptures. At times the speakers, both lay and clerical, rose to heights offervid oratory, and it was an education to listen to men who werethoroughly versed in the themes which they handled. The Missions ofthe Church were not neglected in the midst of the exciting debatesof the Convention, and an important step was taken when the Boardresolved to adopt the Apportionment Plan, by which each diocese andmissionary jurisdiction would be called on to raise a definite sum ofmoney. This, it was felt, would relieve the Board from the burden ofindebtedness, and would enable the Church to originate new work. Nomore earnest advocates of this plan could be found in the meetings ofthe two Houses of Convention as the Board of Missions, than in BishopBrewer of Montana and Mr. George C. Thomas, the Treasurer. Their wordswere forcible and their manner magnetic. Bishop Doane's eloquentadvocacy of the measure also led to happy results. 

In this chapter on the Triennial Council of the Church held in SanFrancisco, we must not omit to make mention of the United Offeringof the Woman's Auxiliary to the Board of Missions. The women of theChurch specially devoted to its missionary work had been graduallyincreasing their forces and activities and offerings. When theylast met, in the city of Washington, D. C. , three years before, theypresented the goodly sum of $83, 000; but now in San Francisco theywere to surpass their previous efforts. They were to show forth thefruits of more earnest labours and richer giving. They establishedtheir headquarters at 1609 Sutter street, in a commodious dwellinghouse, not far from Trinity Church, where the Convention was insession. Here various rooms were fitted up with handiwork and otherproducts of missionary labour from the numerous fields where theChurch, in obedience to her Lord's command, is engaged in sowingbeside all waters; and no one could walk through these artisticchambers adorned with the work of the Indians of Alaska and thedwellers of the South Seas, the converts of India, of China andJapan, as well as Mexico and other regions, without being filled withadmiration. Various dioceses also of the Church exhibited pictures ofsacred edifices showing different styles of architecture. There werealso photographs of noted missionaries, pioneer bishops and otherclergy in the collection. Here indeed was an object lesson, and in allthese works was manifested a spirit of enterprise most commendable. Different countries were thus brought together in such a way as tomake the student of Missions realise the fact that the Church hadindeed gone into all lands and that the Gentiles were walking inthe light of Him Who is the life of men. While there were importantmeetings held by the Auxiliary, and special services were arranged forits members, the greatest interest naturally centered in the serviceheld in Grace Church on Thursday, October 3rd, when the UnitedOffering for the three years ended, was laid on the Altar of God. Sixclergymen gathered the alms, and bearing them to the chancel, theywere received in the large gold Basin which some years ago waspresented to the American Church by the Church of England. This AlmsBasin is three feet in diameter, and is an object of great interestas well as value. It is used only at grand functions, such as themeetings of the General Convention. It was an occasion of greatrejoicing as well as a cause for devout gratitude when the magnificentsum of one hundred and four thousand dollars was reverently placed onthe Altar. Behind all this was the love which made the large offeringpossible, behind it too the devotion which at this most significantand inspiring service, led fully a thousand faithful women to drawnigh to their divine Lord in that blessed Eucharist which quickens thesoul into newness of life. The sermon at the service of the UnitedOffering was preached by Right Rev. Dr. Nichols, Bishop of California, from St. Luke, chapter ii, verses 22-24, and was one of remarkablepower, rehearsing the righteous acts and noble deeds wrought by womenin all ages. 

One of the most noted meetings during the sessions of the Conventionwas held in Mechanics' Pavilion, on the evening of Tuesday, October8th. It was probably the greatest gathering ever brought together onthe Pacific coast in the interest of Missions or of Religion. Therewere not less than seven thousand persons present during the eveningin the great hall, whose arches rang from time to time with applauseat the sentiments of the speakers, and echoed and re-echoed thestirring missionary hymns sung by the vast multitude as led by thevested choirs of the various parishes in San Francisco. It is saidthat this enthusiastic gathering of all ranks was equalled only bythe thousands who had assembled here only a short time before to payhonours to the memory of President McKinley, whom the people loved. Bishop Doane of Albany presided with his accustomed tact and force, and, after suitable devotions, introduced the four speakers. The firstof those who addressed the assemblage was the Right Rev. Edgar Jacob, D. D. , the Lord Bishop of Newcastle, who represented the Archbishopof Canterbury. He said that there were four methods of spreading theGospel in obedience to the command of the Master, "Go, make disciplesof all people of the earth. " These are the evangelistic, theeducational, the medical, and the magnetic. Of this last he said, "Itis that the society should attract the individual. The influence ofthe individual must be followed by the influence of the society. "Bishop Potter of New York followed in his usual happy vein. Then camethe eloquent Bishop of Kyoto, Right Rev. Dr. Sidney C. Partridge, andafter him Burton Mansfield, representing the laity, who spoke about"Re-quickened Faith as necessary to all. "

During the last week of the Convention there were some specialreunions of colleges and theological seminaries. Among the mostinteresting of these, that of the Philadelphia Divinity School, withBishop Whitaker presiding, may be mentioned, and also that of St. Stephen's College, Annandale, with its first Warden, Bishop Seymour, at the head of the table. Bishop Dudley honoured the gathering ofalumni at this banquet, in the Occidental Hotel, with his presence, and Warden Lawrence T. Cole was a prominent figure. 

The Convention attracted to San Francisco several well-known clergymenwho, although not deputies, were nevertheless deeply interestedlisteners, in the galleries and on the floor of the House, duringthe sessions, and were also participants in services and missionarygatherings. Among these was the Rev. Dr. Lawrence T. Cole, theenergetic Warden of St. Stephen's College, Annandale, N. Y. , of whom wehave already spoken. There was also in attendance the Rev. A. BurtisHunter, Principal of St. Augustine's School for Coloured Students, in Raleigh, N. C. In this Church Institute Rev. Mr. Hunter and hisexcellent wife are doing a grand work for the negro people of theSouth, on lines somewhat similar to those followed by Booker T. Washington at Tuskeegee. We also noticed at the Convention andMissionary Services the Rev. William Wilmerding Moir, B. D. , thezealous missionary at Lake Placid, N. Y. , in the Diocese of Albany. His Missions, which have been phenomenal in their growth, are St. Eustace-by-the-Lakes and St. Hubert's-at-Newman. Under his sowingbeside all waters, the Adirondack wilderness, in the field committedto him, is blossoming as the rose. Never was missionary moreindefatigable and self-denying than he, and his rich reward now is inthe possession of the confidence and love of his flock. It shows whata true and beautiful life can accomplish for the Divine Master and forthe souls of perishing men, when the apostolic injunction is observedto the letter, --"Let this mind be in you, which was also in ChristJesus. " This is indeed the true spirit in all missionary labours; and, thank God, it animates the Church in all its fulness, as evidencedhere in San Francisco in the devising of methods for the extension ofthe Gospel of the Kingdom!

During the last hour of the final session of the Convention, Rev. Dr. William R. Huntington, Rector of Grace Church, New York city, a manwhom every one who knows him respects and honours for his learning, his eloquence, his integrity, his character as a man, his devotionas a Clergyman, to the Church, and his love for his Divine Master, created a sensation by a speech which he made. Indeed it was dramaticin its character, and it made a profound impression on all who heardit. As he spoke, a deep silence came over the members of the House. Asis well known, Dr. Huntington has for years advocated an amendment toArticle X of the Constitution by which there should be given to theBishops of the Church the spiritual oversight of congregations not incommunion with the Church, allowing the Bishops to provide servicesfor them other than those of the Book of Common Prayer. This subjectwas debated at length, and at last, to harmonise all interests, aCommittee of Conference was appointed from both Houses. Finally theCommittee reported two resolutions for adoption, --the first, thatArticle X of the Constitution is to be so interpreted as notrestricting the authority of the Bishops, acting under the Canons ofthe General Convention, to provide special forms of worship; and thesecond, that the Bishops have the right to take under their spiritualoversight congregations of Christian people not in union withthe Church, and that the use of the Book of Common Prayer is notobligatory for such congregations, but no such congregations shall beadmitted into union with a Diocesan Convention until organised as aParish and making use of the Book of Common Prayer. The first wasadopted, and the second lost. Dr. Huntington then arose and moveda reconsideration of the vote on the Report of the Committee ofConference. Having made his motion, he said, with evident feeling andpathos in his voice: "I may perhaps be allowed in advocating thismotion to say a single word of a personal character, or partially of apersonal character. I desire to say that I entertain the same faithin the final victory of the principles which I have had the honour toadvocate in three previous Conventions that I ever have entertained. Individuals may rebuke me because of too great persistency and becauseof too much presumption. Great measures, if I may be pardoned in usinga political phrase, may be turned down for the time. They cannot beturned down for all time. You have chosen your course for the presentwith reference to the great question of the opening century. Iacquiesce. I resign to younger hands the torch. I surrender theleadership which has been graciously accorded me by many clerical andlay members of this House. The measure I advocated has been known asthe iridescent dream. I remember who they were who said, we shall seewhat will become of his dream. In time they saw. But for the presentit is otherwise. The Chicago-Lambeth platform has been turneddown, and what I hope I may characterise without offence as theOxford-Milwaukee platform is for the time in the ascendant. I acceptthe fact. My 'iridescent dream' shall disturb their dreams no more. Irecall a saying of my old friend Father Fidele, whom we used to knowin our college days as James Kent Stone. When he went over to Rome hewrote a book with the title, 'The Invitation Heeded, ' and the bestthing in it was this: 'I thank heaven that I have reached aChurch where there is no longer any nervousness about the GeneralConvention. ' There is no probability, sir, of my heeding theinvitation that he heeded, but henceforth I share his peace. " Themotion to reconsider the vote by which the first resolution of theCommittee of Conference was adopted, was lost; and then Dr. Huntingtonretired from the House. Soon after the Bishops sent to the Deputies inMessage 93, the same Resolutions as having been adopted by them, andasking the House of Deputies to concur. The motion prevailed by alarge vote, and the victory came for the good Doctor, who thought hewas defeated for the present, much sooner than he had expected. 

The closing service of the Convention, on Thursday afternoon, Octoberthe 17th, was a memorable one. The imposing array of Bishops in theirrobes, the presence of the House of clerical and lay deputies, andthe hundreds of San Francisco's citizens who thronged Trinity Church, together with the inspiring hymns and the reading of the PastoralLetter by Bishop Dudley, who used his voice with great effect, madea lasting impression on all present. With the solemn benediction byBishop Tuttle at 6:30 P. M. , the great Council of 1901 was a thing ofthe past, but though its sessions were ended and become a matter ofhistory, its effect could not be undervalued. It was a great advantageto the churchmen from all parts of the land to meet in San Francisco. In their journeyings from the East and other portions of the countrybetween the Atlantic Ocean and the Rocky Mountains they had anopportunity of studying the far West, and they realised more thanever how great is the extent of the country, how inexhaustible itsresources; and they were stirred up to greater missionary activity andmore liberal giving. The wide domain between the Rocky Mountainsand the Sierras and the rich valleys of California bordering on thePacific Ocean, inviting enterprising agriculturalists from all sides, were indeed an object lesson. The civilisation of the West too is thecivilisation of the East, and the Church, with her adaptability, isas much at home by the Golden Gate as in New York or Boston orPhiladelphia. The Convention will help the Church in California. Itsinfluences have gone out among the people in healing streams. Itscharacter and work were a revelation to the populations by thePacific; and already men who knew but little about the strength of ourgreat American Church, its order, its catholicity, its aims, have beengreatly enlightened and drawn to its services. They realise more andmore what a mighty agency it is for good, how it promotes all thatis best in our civilisation, and how it adds to the stability of theinstitutions of the land. 

The character of the men and women whom the Church trains forcitizenship and usefulness in the world is seen in two beautiful liveswhose labours were finished, in God's Providence, by the waters of theGolden Gate. Mrs. Mary Abbott Emery Twing, of New York, widow ofthe late Rev. Dr. Twing, for many years Secretary of the Board ofMissions, had travelled across the continent to be present at themeetings of the Woman's Auxiliary, of which she had been the firstactive Secretary. But sickness came, and after a few days she was cutdown like a flower. She was a woman of a lovely character, devoted tothe service of her divine Master like the Marys of old, and was a typeof the tens of thousands of the Church's faithful daughters throughoutthe land. As she has left a holy example of missionary zeal andlabour, so her good works follow her. The other life of which we speakis also an eminent example of love for God's Church, of faithfulnessand good works. John I. Thompson, one of the most esteemed citizens ofTroy, N. Y. , though hardly in a condition physically to make the longjourney to San Francisco, yet felt it his duty to be in his seat inthe Convention. So he counted not his life dear unto himself, butwith that sense of duty and spirit of self-sacrifice which alwayshad characterised him he was found in his place at the opening andorganising of the Convention, in Trinity Church, and answered theroll call. Exposures by the way had made inroads on his health andgradually he lost his strength until death finally claimed him on theevening of Wednesday, October the 16th. The next day the Conventionpassed the following resolution: "_Resolved_, That the members of thisConvention have heard, with deep regret, of the death of Mr. JohnI. Thompson, a lay deputy of the diocese of Albany, and they herebyexpress their warm and tender sympathy for his family in their sorebereavement. " But what a deathbed was his! What a testimony to thepower of a living faith in Christ! He died as he had lived, a trulyChristian man, illustrating the power of that Gospel which the GeneralConvention is pledged to propagate and defend. With him, in the PalaceHotel, were those whom he loved best of all, his devoted wife, whohad accompanied him, and his faithful son, who had hastened from thedistant East to the chamber of sickness; with him too betimes theBishop of Albany, whose tender words and loving ministrations werean unspeakable comfort to him; with him also his beloved Rector, Dr. Edgar A. Enos, of his dear St. Paul's Church, to break for him thebread of life and press the cup of salvation to his lips, and pray forhim as he walked through the valley of the shadow of death, and tocommend his departing soul to God. He knew he was going away fromearthly scenes, and with faith and hope, he leaned on the arms of hisLord. Trained from his childhood in the ways of the divine life, andhaving walked like the holy men of old in the paths of righteousness, he had no fear as his feet touched the Dark River. He was ready tolaunch his soul's bark on the ocean of eternity. Methinks I see hispurified spirit passing out through the Golden Gate yonder, but tosail over a sea more calm than the Pacific. It is eventide now, but"at evening time it shall be light;" and the light of God's eternalcity is shed across his pathway as the Divine Pilot guides him throughthe Golden Gate of Paradise to the harbour of peace!

CHAPTER XII

THROUGH THE CITY TO THE GOLDEN GATE

A Well Equipped Fire Department--Destructive Fires--Scene atthe _Call_ Office--Loyalty to the Flag--The Blind Man and BobbyBurns--Street Scenes and Places of Interest--Market StreetSystem--Mission Dolores--Effect of Pictures--FranciscanMissionaries--A Quaint Building--The Mosque a Model--The Presidio--TheSpanish and American Reservation--Tents--Cemetery--The CliffHouse--Sutro Baths--Museum--Seal Rocks--Farallones--Golden Gate--Whatit Recalls--Golden Poppy--John C. Fremont--Drake and the GoldenHind--A Convenient Harbour--First to Enter--With the Indians--Child ofDestiny--A Vision of Greatness--Queen of the Golden Gate. 

Our walks hither and thither in San Francisco will lead us to manyinteresting places, and at times into the midst of exciting scenes. There is an onward sweep of the current of humanity, which isexhilarating in a high degree; there is activity on all sides; andyou soon catch the spirit of the place. Men have a purpose in view, something to accomplish; and there is the entire absence of lethargy;there are no drones in the great hive. You realise that you are in acity of distances as well as surprises; and wherever you go you findsome object or locality or happening that calls for comment. Hark!there is the fire alarm. The engines and hose-carts and fire ladders, with other apparatus, pass you as in the twinkling of an eye; and soskillful are the fire-laddies, and so well equipped is the department, that the devouring flames rarely ever make headway. They are quicklymastered. But it was not always so. There was a period about fiftyyears ago when great and destructive fires succeeded one another likea deluge and wiped out large portions of the growing city. There wasthen a woful lack of water, which is now most abundant, and the fireengines were very primitive in character and inadequate to the needsof the place. To-day every precaution is taken to guard against fire, and the great business blocks and the miles and miles of handsomehomes are well protected. 

I visited the central department, and it was most interesting to notethe appliances of other days. It almost excited a smile to see thesimple hand engines and old fire-extinguishers. On the walls of the"Curiosity-Shop" where these mementoes of other days were exhibited, not far from the Chinese quarter, were photographs of the members ofthe department, of past years; and among the faces were some of themost distinguished citizens of San Francisco. All honour to the menwho protect our homes thus, who respond quickly to the fire bell whichstartles the ear in midnight hours, who risk their lives for the sakeof others, who evince such hardihood and perform acts which are trulyheroic! Some old inhabitant, if you question him, will go back to thepast and tell you in graphic language about the disastrous fires whichhave swept over the city laying large portions of it again and againin ashes. The first, which was of consequence occurred in December1849. Then the loss was estimated to be a million of dollars. On May4th 1850 there was another fire which was a heavy blow to the businessinterests of the town. A third fire broke out in June 14th, 1850, andstill another on September 17th, 1850, causing great loss. But, as theclimax, came on May 3rd, 1851, what is known as "the great fire. "At the time the chief engineer and many of the firemen were inSacramento, and this greatly crippled the service. The fire-fiendheld carnival for twenty-four hours, and property, valued at twentymillions of dollars, was consumed, while many of the people perishedin the flames. 

On Sunday, June 22nd, 1851, there was still another ruinous fire whichraged among the homes on the hillsides and in the residence-districtsgenerally. This was accompanied with a most pathetic incident. Whilethe flames were raging around the Plaza, a man who was very sick wascarried on his bed into the midst of the open place, and there whilea shower of flame was rained on him and smoke blinded his eyes hisspirit passed to his eternal home in the Heavens. But although SanFrancisco had met with all these losses in rapid succession, partlythe result of incendiarism and partly by reason of a lack of fireequipment, yet the people, brave-hearted and unconquerable, rebuilttheir city on broader and safer lines; and the San Francisco ofto-day, so attractive and prosperous and beautiful, may be said tohave risen Phoenix-like out of her ashes. So it is that evils areoverruled for good in God's Providence, and the fine gold comes out ofthe fire of discipline, tried and precious! Our walks now will leadus up through the city to the Mission Dolores, the Presidio, and theGolden Gate. But as we proceed up Market Street we take note of somefeatures of the life of San Francisco. Behold, here is an eager groupof men and boys in front of _The Call_ office. They are scanning thebulletin of the day's news from all parts of the world, which will bepublished in to-morrow's _Call_ or in the _Chronicle_ on the northside of the street. In the early part of my sojourn in this city bythe Golden Gate I was impressed with this aspect of life here. Itwas on Thursday the 3rd day of October that I saw a crowd of men ofvarious ages, and boys also, reaching out into the street, besiegingthe bulletin board of _The Call_, at the corner of Market and ThirdStreets. Why are they so deeply absorbed and why so interested? Theyare reading the news of the victory of Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan's_Columbia_ over Sir Thomas Lipton's _Shamrock_ in the great yacht racein New York waters, in the cup contest. Had this international racetaken place outside of their own Golden Gate, on the broad Pacific, they could not have evinced greater enthusiasm and pride at theresult. The pulse of San Francisco is quickened and the heart thrilledat American success on the Atlantic seaboard as much as Boston or NewYork is elated when it triumphs. Distance is nothing. It is Americafrom Sandy Hook to the Golden Gate. The one thing that impresses youhere in San Francisco is the intense patriotism of the people, andyour own heart is warmed as you see the evidences of loyalty to theflag. I could not but be touched too at the devotion which the peopleeverywhere displayed to the memory of President McKinley. Even inChinatown a deep sentiment prevailed, and his draped portrait with hisbenignant countenance might be seen in houses and stores and in otherconspicuous places. 

As you walk leisurely along you will see on the sidewalk, on the southside of the street, west of the Palace Hotel and opposite No. 981, a newstand with American flags decorating its roof; and you will beinterested in the man who stands in his sheltered place behind thecounter on which are the daily papers. It is George M. Drum, a blindman. Poor Drum, a man about fifty years old, lost his eyesight in apremature explosion of giant powder, in a quarry near Ocean View, onthe 3rd of November 1895. Yet he takes his misfortune cheerfully. Heis chatty and witty and somewhat of a poet and is the author of ahighly imaginative story about a "Bottomless Lake" and a "HauntedCavern" in which that strange character, Joaquin Murietta, well knownin all California mining camps fifty years ago, figures. This JoaquinMurietta has also been the theme of the "Poet of the Sierras, " JoaquinMiller. Indeed it was from this "Joaquin" that Miller has taken hisname Joaquin, being otherwise called Cincinnatus Heine Miller. It wasmy custom to purchase _The Call_ and _The Chronicle_ each morning fromMr. Drum; and on the second time that I saw him he said, "I wish toshake hands with you; I know you. " "Who am I?" I asked, with no littlesurprise. Said he, "You are Bobby Burns. " "Bobby Burns!" I exclaimed;and, thinking only of the Ayrshire poet, I said, "Burns is dead!""Oh, " he said, "there is a man here in San Francisco, whom I callBobby Burns, and T thought that you were he. " So the mystery wasexplained; and I could not but reflect that many other things whichpuzzle us are just as easy of solution when we have the proper key tothem. 

If your walk is extended into the evening through the brilliantlylighted streets, which electricity makes almost as bright as day, youwill meet here and there detachments of the Salvation Army and theAmerican Volunteers; then you will see a group of men around sometemperance lecturer or street orator. You will also hear the voiceof some fakir selling his fakes or wares, or some juggler who isdelighting his audience with his tricks of legerdemain. 

If you desire to make purchases of silver articles or gold ornamentsyou will go to Hammersmith and Field's at No. 36 Kearney Street; andif you wish to spend an hour pleasantly and profitably among books onall subjects, you will visit No. 1149 Market Street or 704 MissionStreet. Here you will learn that books on California, whether old ornew, are in great demand. Indeed all books relating to the GoldenState are eagerly sought for; and if you chance to have any such youwill be reluctant to part with them. They increase in value year byyear. 

The Club life of San Francisco is an important element; and it will bean easy matter for you to find admittance to the Pacific Union Club, the Cosmos Club, or the Bohemian Club, if you have the indorsement ofa member. A letter of introduction or commendation from a clergyman orsome well-known public man will secure for you the Open Sesame at anytime; and here you can pass an hour pleasantly and meet the foremostmen of the city, physicians, clergymen, lawyers, merchants, and armyofficers. 

But we hasten on now to the old Mission Dolores. Let us board thestreet car which leads to its door. Meanwhile we have an opportunityto study what is called the Market Street system. Rumour hath it thatthe street railways will soon pass into the hands of a syndicate withcapitalists from Baltimore at the head of it. The estimated value ofthe various lines is said to be over fourteen millions of dollars. These cars are excellent in service, and they climb up the hills ofSan Francisco with perfect ease. You feel, on some of the lines, asascent is so steep, that the car is about to stand on end, and youcling to your seat lest you lose your balance; but you are perfectlysafe. They will take you in every direction as they run through allprincipal streets and out to Golden Gate Park and the Cliff House aswell as to distant points in the suburbs of San Francisco. 

Away back in the early days of the city the Mission was reached by aplank road from the shores of the Bay; but now you ride to its doorsin comfort. The Mission Dolores located in the western part of thecity will always be a place of special interest. It carries youback to 1776, the same year in which the American Colonies declaredthemselves to be free and independent of Great Britain. The Missionwas founded under the supervision of Padre Miguel Jose Serra Junipero, a native of the island of Majorca, who was born on Nov. 24th, 1713. Atthe age of 16 years he joined the order of St. Francis of Assisi, andin 1750 he went as a missionary to the city of Mexico. It was in 1769that he arrived in San Diego and established its Mission. Proceedingup the coast he founded other Missions, and his desire was to name onein honour of the founder of his order. Said he to Don Jose de Galvez, the leader of the expedition from Mexico to California, "Is St. Francis to have no Mission?" The answer was, "Let him show us hisport, and he shall have one. " In consequence of this the San FranciscoMission was established. The solemn mass which marked its foundationwas celebrated by Padres Palou, Cambon, Nocedal and Peña; and on theoccasion firearms were discharged as a token of thanks to God, and also for the purpose of attracting the Indians, though it wasdifficult for them to understand it. The Indians were hard to win atSan Francisco, but a piece of cloth, with the image of "Our Ladyde Los Dolores, " on it, was exhibited to them and it produced amarvellous effect. Pictures seem to have a peculiar attraction for thesavage mind. In the Church of Guadaloupe, Mexico, you may see a largepainting of the Mexican Virgin with Indians crowding around her. The effect of pictures is well illustrated by a scene in the ninthcentury, as when, in answer to the request of Bogoris, King of theBulgarians, the Emperor Michael, of Constantinople, sent to him apainter to decorate the hall of his palace with subjects of a terriblecharacter. It was Methodius, the monk, who was despatched to theBulgarian court on this mission, and he took for his theme the LastJudgment as being the most terrible of all scenes. The representationof hell so alarmed the king that he cast aside his idols, and many ofhis subjects were converted. The Franciscans in their work both inMexico and in California understood well the value of pictures inconvincing the untutored mind. Hence it was the custom to havepictures of heaven and hell on the walls of the Missions. They werebetter than sermons. The name of the Mission here was at first, simplySan Francisco de Asis. Then in time Dolores was added to indicateits locality, because it was west of a Laguna bordered with "WeepingWillows" or because three Indians had been seen weeping in itsvicinity. Naturally the title of the Virgin would be applied to theMission, --Nuestra Señora de Los Dolores, "Our Lady of Sorrows. " Inthis Mission, as well as in the others, the Indians were in a certainsense slaves, as the Fathers controlled all their movements. Thereligious instruction was of the simplest character. The life of theconvert also was somewhat childlike, in marked contrast with hisexperience in his savage condition. His breakfast consisted of a kindof gruel made of corn, called Atole. The dinner was Pozoli, and thesupper the same as breakfast. The Christian Indians lived in adobehuts--of which the Padres kept the keys. Some of the Missions werenoted for their wealth. For example, as you may read in the Annals ofSan Francisco, the Mission Dolores, in its palmiest days, about theyear 1825, possessed 76, 000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2, 000breeding mares, 84 stud of choice breed, 820 mules, 79, 000 sheep, 2, 000 hogs, 456 yoke of working oxen, 18, 000 bushels of wheat andbarley, $35, 000 in merchandise and $25, 000 in specie. 

Such prosperity in time was fatal to the Missions. The spiritual lifewas deadened, and in time it might be said that Ichabod was written onthem. The glory has departed. The early Franciscans were men of deep, religious fervour, self-denying and godly. They did a splendid workamong the Indians in California. Father Junipero was a saintly man, full of labour, enduring hardships for Christ's sake, and he is worthyof being ranked with the saints of old. Padre Palott was a man of likecharacter, and there were others who caught the inspiration of hislife. When Junipero knew that his pilgrimage was about ended he wrotea farewell letter to his Franciscans; and then, on the 28th of August, 1784, having bade good-bye to his fellow-labourer, Padre Palou, heclosed his eyes in the last sleep, and was laid to rest at San Carlos. The lives of such men make a bright spot in the early history ofCalifornia; and as most of its towns and cities have San or Santa as apart of their names it is well to recall the fact that the word Saintwas not unmeaning on the lips of those Franciscan Missionaries wholaboured on these shores and taught the ignorant savage the way oflife. On the day when Doctor Ashton and I visited the Mission Doloreswe were deeply impressed with what we saw. There stood the oldbuilding, partly overshadowed by the new edifice erected recently justnorth of it. Yonder were the hills, north and south and west, whichfrom the first had looked down upon it; but the old gardens and olivetrees which had surrounded it for many years were gone, and insteadthe eye fell on blocks of comfortable houses and streets suggestive ofthe new life which had taken place of the old. The bull-fights whichused to take place near this spot on Sunday afternoons are thingsof the past happily, and the gay, moving throngs, with picturesquecostume of Spanish make and Mexican hue, have forever vanished. Theold graveyard with its high walls on the south side of the Churchremains. Tall grass bends over the prostrate tombstones, a willow treeserves as a mourning sentinel here and there, while the odours offlowers, emblems of undying hopes, are wafted to us on the balmy airas we stand, with memories of the past rushing on the mind, and gazesilently on the scene. The building looks very quaint in the midst ofthe modern life which surrounds it. It is a monument of by-gone dayswith its adobe walls and tiled roof. Its front has in it a suggestionof an Egyptian temple. Its architecture is Spanish and Mexican and oldCalifornian combined. You can not fail to carry away its picture inyour memory, for without any effort on your part it is photographed onyour mind for the remainder of your days. These old Mission buildingsof California and of Mexico too are all very similar in theirconstruction. Some have the tower which reminds you of the Minaretof a mosque. I fancy, as the idea of the Mission building with itsrectangular grounds, generally walled, came from Spain, that themosque, with its square enclosure and houses for its attendants, wasits model. The Moors of Spain have left their impress behind themin architecture as well as in other things. They borrowed fromConstantinople, and the City of the Golden Horn has extended itsinfluence in one way and another over all the civilised world. ButDolores is crumbling, and its services, still held, and its "Bells, "of which Bret Harte sang so sweetly years ago, can not arrest itsdecay. In it is seen "the dying glow of Spanish glory, " which once, like a cimeter, flashed forth here. Yet, though a building fall anda nation be uprooted, "the Church of Jesus constant will remain, "shedding its glory on generation after generation and beautifying thehuman race!

Let us now pursue our walk in a northwesterly direction to thePresidio. The descendants of the old Spanish families in San Franciscopronounce the word still in the Castilian way, with the vowels long, and the full continental sound is given. This makes the name verymusical as it is syllabled on their lips. What is the Presidio? Thiswas originally the Military Post of the Spaniards, but it is now theMilitary Reservation of the United States. We are carried back to theold Spanish days as we tread the well kept walks of this garrisonedpost. It was on Sept. 17, 1776, as we learn that it was established. There were four of these Presidios in California, one at San Diego, the second at Santa Barbara, the third at Monterey, and the fourthhere by the waters of the Golden Gate. They were built on the linesof a square, three hundred feet long on each side, and the walls weremade of adobes formed of ashes and earth. Within this enclosure werethe necessary buildings, of the simplest construction, such as theCommandante's house, the barracks, the store house, the shops and thejail. The government buildings as a rule were whitewashed. The chiefobject of the Presidios was to give protection to the Missionaries andguard them against the Indians. The full complement of soldiers ineach Presidio was two hundred and fifty--but the number rarely reachedas high as this. The soldiers in those early days were not, as a rule, of the highest standing. Many of them were from the dregs of theMexican army, and among them were men sometimes who had committedcrime and were in a measure in banishment. 

There could be no greater contrast possible than that between thePresidio of Spanish days and the Presidio of the present time, bothas to the place and the personnel of the officers and men of thegarrison. As you look around you now your eyes rest on wide andhandsome parade grounds, on beautiful gardens where flowers bloomin luxuriance, on groups of the Monterey Cypress, on neatly trimmedhedges, on walks in many places bordered with cannon balls, onattractive buildings which have a homelike aspect with vines climbingthe walls, on barracks where the soldiers are made comfortable. ThePresidio looks like a settlement in itself, and is very picturesque. I will not soon forget the beautiful, balmy afternoon, when I walkedthrough the grounds on my way to the hills above the ocean. Hereeverything was suggestive of forethought, of care, of order, ofdignity. The Reservation stretched out on every hand and over to theshore of the Bay northward where it has a water frontage of at least amile and a half. In all its area it embraces a landscape, varied andundulating, of one thousand, five hundred and forty-two acres. It isa noble park in itself and well may the nation be proud of it. ThePresidio was first occupied by United States troops in 1847, on March4th, when the sword was trembling in the weak hands of Spain. OnNovember 6th, 1850, President Millard Fillmore set these grounds apartforever as a Military Reservation. As I walked on, before me to thewest, rose hundreds of tents in which were soldiers, some of whom hadreturned from the Philippine Islands, and others of them were soonto embark for the Orient. Yonder too is the cemetery, where, as onArlington Heights above the Potomac, sleep the Nation's dead; and

 "There Honour comes, a pilgrim gray, To bless the turf that wraps their clay. "

After your visit to the Presidio you will naturally desire to go tothe Cliff House, that world renowned resort on Point Lobos south ofthe Golden Gate, and about seven miles distant from the City Hall. Thousands frequent this favoured spot annually, and especially onSaturday afternoons is it thronged. You can reach the Cliff either bythe street cars going by Golden Gate Park, or by the electric railwaywhich skirts the rocky heights of the Golden Gate. This last was ourroute, and the return journey was by the street railway. A Mr. Blackand a Mr. Norton, two of San Francisco's prosperous business-men, weregoing thither also, and, seeing that we were strangers, they with trueCalifornia courtesy gave us much information and showed us favourswhich we valued highly. As we sped westward, on our right was FortPoint just rising above tide water with its granite and brick wallsand strong fortifications and powerful guns guarding the entrance tothe Bay of San Francisco. 

Close by the Cliff House, and north of it, are the famous Sutro Baths, always well patronised; and the lofty, vaulted building in which theyare located impresses you greatly as you enter it. It stands on theshore of the sea, reaching out into the deep; and the waters, whichfill the swimming pools of various depths, flow in from old ocean inall their virgin purity. Here you will find all the best equipmentsand conveniences of a bath house. 

After bathing you may ascend to a long gallery of the building, whereis a museum with a valuable collection of Indian relics and stuffedanimals and archaeological specimens, and even mummies from old Egyptin their well preserved cases. The view from the heights above theCliff House is magnificent. Almost at your feet, about two hundredand fifty yards from the shore, are the Seal Rocks rising up in theirhoary forms from the sea and against whose sides the waves dash fromtime to time in rythmical cadence. Here are hundreds of sea-lions, young and old, basking in the sun or disporting themselves in thewaters, and ever and anon you hear their roaring, reminding you thathere is nature's grand aquarium. As you look northward you see therocky shores of the ocean for miles, while to the south your eyes reston a receding beach; and in a direct line some twenty miles westwardare the Farallones or Needles, a group of seven islands consisting ofbarren rocks, the largest of which, comprising some two acres in area, has a spring of pure water and is surmounted by a lighthouse. Here tooare vast numbers of sea-lions and wild birds of the sea, which makethese islets their home, nothing daunted by the billows which rollover them in wind and storm. Surely it is a picture of the steadfastsoul in the midst of commotions, when the waves of the sea of humanpassions "are mighty and rage horribly!" As you look out toward theFarallones, as lights and shadows fall on them, you almost imaginethat they are ships from distant shores ploughing their way to theGolden Gate. But what of the Golden Gate, on which our eyes now rest?The name naturally recalls to mind the "Golden Gate" in the wall ofTheodosius, in Constantinople, with its three arches and twin, marbletowers, now indeed walled up to prevent the fulfillment of a prophecythat the Christian Conqueror who is to take the city will enterthrough it. A similar belief prevails concerning the Golden Gate ofthe Temple Area in Jerusalem, which is also effectually barred. Butwhoever named it doubtless had in mind the "Golden Horn, " that nobleright arm of the Bosphorus, embracing Stamboul and its suburbs forfive miles up to the "Sweet Waters of Europe. " There are indeed somecorrespondences between the two. As the wealth of the Orient flowsinto the Golden Horn, the harbour of Constantinople for manycenturies, so the riches of commerce, the products of great stateswest of the Rocky Mountains, and the treasures of the Pacific, passthrough the Golden Gate. The Golden Gate too is about five miles inlength, although at its entrance it is a little over a mile wide andwidens out as you sail into the great Bay of which it is the outlet. This is located in latitude 37° 48' north and in longitude 122° 24'32" west of Greenwich, and has a depth of thirty feet on the bar whileinside of its mouth it ranges from sixty to one hundred feet. Theshores are a striking feature, and on the south side range from threehundred to four hundred feet in height, while on the north thehills, in places, attain an altitude of two thousand feet; and theseadamantine walls, witnesses of many a stirring event in the history ofCalifornia, are clothed in green in spring-time, while in autumnthey are brown, and from the distance resemble huge lions, couchant, guardians of the Gate. But who gave it its name, and why is it socalled? These were my questions. Among the residents of San Francisco, whom I asked, was a Señora whose countenance plainly indicated herSpanish descent, and she said it took its name from the Golden Poppyof California. This was the Gateway to the land of the Golden Poppy. The Poppy is called Chryseis at times, after one of the characters ofHomer; and it is also known by the Spanish name, especially in theearly days, Caliz de Oro, Chalice of Gold. Another designation, usedby the poets, is Copa de Oro, Cup of Gold; while in Indian legends ithas sometimes been styled, "Fire-Flower" and "Great Spirit Flower. " Itwas the belief among the Indians, when they saw the people flockingfor gold from all directions, that the petals of the "Great SpiritFlower, " dropping year after year into the earth, had been turned intoyellow gold. The Golden Poppy, the State Flower of California, bloomsin great profusion and with marvellous beauty on hillside in plain andvalley, in field and garden, by lake and river, from the Sierras tothe shores of the Pacific, and it is especially abundant on the hillswhich skirt the shores of the Golden Gate. Indeed in spring time theseare one mass of gold; and hence it would not require much imaginationto coin the magic name by which the gateway to one of the grandestBays in the world is known. An old Californian song well describes thebeauty and luxuriance of this suggestive Flower. 

 "O'er the foothills, through the meadows, Midst the canons' lights and shadows, Spreading with their amber glow, Lo, the golden poppies grow! Golden poppies, deep and hollow, Golden poppies, rich and mellow, Radiant in their robes of yellow, Lo, the golden poppies grow!"

The honour of having named the Gate, however, is generally concededto General John C. Fremont. In his "Memoirs" he says: "To this Gate Igave the name of Chrysopylae or Golden Gate, for the same reasons thatthe harbour of Byzantium (Constantinople) was named the Golden Horn(Chrysoceras). " It has been hinted nevertheless that Sir Francis Drakegave it its appellation; and if this be so the euphonious name wouldbe suggested by his ship in which he sailed along this coast, the_Golden Hind. _ At first the ship bore the name of _Pelican_, butat Cape Virgins, at the entrance to the Straits of Magellan, Drakechanged it to the _Golden Hind_, in honour of his patron SirChristopher Hatton, on whose coat of arms was a Golden Hind. Notwithout interest do we follow the fortunes of this ship. When finallyshe was moored in her English port after her voyages, and was put outof commission as unseaworthy, and fell into decay, though guarded withcare, John Davis, the English navigator, had a chair made out of hertimbers, which he presented to the University of Oxford, still guardedsacredly in the Bodleian Library. No wonder that Cowley, while sittingin it, wrote his stirring lines, and apostrophised it as "GreatRelic!" How noble this thought. 

 "The straits of time too narrow are for thee-- Launch forth into an undiscovered sea, And steer the endless course of vast eternity; Take for thy sail, this verse, and for thy pilot, me!"

Had we stood on these lofty shores by the Golden Gate in the earlysummer of 1579 we would have descried the _Golden Hind_ ploughingthe waters of the Pacific northward. Her course was as far north aslatitude 42° on June 3rd. Owing, however, to the cold weather Drakereturned southward to find a "convenient and fit harbour" for rest andrefitting of the vessel; and, as one of the narrators of the voyagewrites, "It pleased God to send us into a fair and good bay, with agood wind to enter the same. " Was this what is known as Drake's Bay orpopularly as Jack's Bay, southeast of Point los Reyes, or was it theBay of San Francisco? Justin Winsor, in his Narrative and CriticalHistory of America, and Hubert Howe Bancroft, in his History ofCalifornia, discuss this matter in an exhaustive manner; and thereader after sifting all the evidence afforded, will still be free toform his own judgment. Some writers, wishing to give the glory to theSpaniards, arrive at conclusions hastily, though of course a name likethat of Bancroft carries great weight and his arguments deserve thehighest consideration. The question then is, Was the _Golden Hind_ thefirst ship to cross the bar and pass through the Golden Gate, in thename of Queen Elizabeth of England? Or was it Juan Bautista de Ayala'sship, _San Carlos_, in August, 1775, in the name of Charles III. OfSpain?

It seems to the writer that a man of Drake's discernment andperception and experience would not be likely to pass by the GoldenGate without seeing it and entering it. True, it may have been veiledin fog, such as you may see the trade winds driving into the Bayto-day often in the afternoon, but there are many hours when the Gateis clear and when it could hardly escape the notice of an experiencedseaman. The intercourse of Drake with the Indians who crowned him asking, the services used on these shores out of the old Book of CommonPrayer by "Master Fletcher, " the _Golden Hind's_ chaplain, the namingof the country Albion from its white cliffs in honour of Britain'sancient title, and the taking possession of it in the Queen's name, and many other interesting things, are all told in the old narratives, as you may find the story in Hakluyt's Collection; and most edifyingis it, opening up a new world and making a romantic chapter in theearly history of California. The centuries have rolled on since thattime: California has become one of the brightest jewels in thecrown of the Republic; San Francisco has been born and has attainedgreatness never dreamed of by those pioneers who laid her foundations, and before her is a grand career owing to her position and character. She is the child of destiny, with her sceptre extended over the seaswhich bind to her the great Orient. When John C. Calhoun was Secretaryof State he laid his finger on the map where San Francisco stands now, and said: "There, when this Bay comes into our possession, will springup the great rival of New York. " Give San Francisco a history as longas that of New York, and then see what mighty force she will develop. Has she not at her feet all the great States which stretch out beyondthe Rocky Mountains? Has she not the homage of all the Pacific coastlands with their untold wealth? And are not her perpetuity andgreatness assured? "Whoever, " says Sir Walter Raleigh, "commands thesea commands the trade of the world, and whoever commands the trade ofthe world commands the riches of the world, and consequently the worlditself. " True is it that San Francisco commands the riches of Alaska, the commerce of China and Japan, the wealth of the Sandwich Islandsand of the Philippine Archipelago as well as the products of the SouthSeas, and what more can she desire? Her cup, a golden cup, is full tooverflowing; and I see the years coming, in the visions of the future, when the city will cover, like a jewelled robe, the whole Peninsulaas far south as San Jose and will embrace within her government theflourishing towns upon the beautiful shores of her great Bay. Yes, Alameda and Oakland, Berkeley and Benicia, Vallejo and Saucelito, andthe villages as far north as San Rafael with all their rich fruitage, will sparkle in her diadem, and teeming millions will be enrolledwithin her borders rejoicing in her prosperity and her grandeur. Allthe advantages of Tyre and Corinth and Alexandria, of the ancientworld, are her heritage without the elements of decay which ledto their downfall; and if she but hold fast the principles ofrighteousness, which are the best bulwarks of a city or state, shewill continue to reign as a queen to latest generations, sitting onher exalted throne by the Golden Gate!