[Transcriber's note: The non-standard spellings of the original texthave been retained in this etext. ]

 BY WATER TO THE COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION

 BY JOHANNA S. WISTHALER. 

 1894

"Travel is the great source of true wisdom. " --_Bearensfield_

To my amiable traveling companions, Mr. S. R. James and family, and

Miss Sarah E. Campbell, this volume is affectionately inscribed

PREFACE

It has been the aim of the author: to combine a detailed narrative of hertrip by water to the White City with a faithful description of the evermemorable Columbian Exposition as far as possible consistent with thescope of this work. Every opportunity has been embraced by the writer toincorporate the historical events, scientific facts, and natural phenomenamost appropriate to the subject. 

The author also acknowledges her indebtedness to the Lake Shore & MichiganSouthern Railway Co. As well as her obligations to the Winters Art LithoCo. In Chicago. She wishes to express her gratitude to the first-mentionedcorporation for having presented her with a map illustrative of the route;thus enabling the reader to trace the numerous towns and cities--on theErie Canal and three Great Lakes--whose history and attractions have beendepicted in this book. 

The Lake Shore Route--selected by the Government to run the famous FastMail Trains--is the only double track line between Chicago, Cleveland, Buffalo, New York, and Boston. --During the existence of the White City, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway Co. Placed in service specialtrains for the purpose of facilitating railway transportation between theeastern cities and the "Queen of the West. " The "Exposition Flyer, " whichaccomplished nearly 1, 000 miles in twenty hours from Chicago to New York, an average of about fifty miles per hour, was certainly one of the fastesttrains in the World. 

To the aid of the Winters Art Litho Co. The author owes her capability offurnishing this volume with a novel illustration of the World's Fair. --Agold medal was awarded to this firm for the excellence in their watercolor fac-simile reproductions and advancement in legitimate lithography. The credit of improvements in materially reducing the number of printings, and still maintaining excellence in results, was conceded to them by theJudges. --This company kindly permitted the author to use their copyrightof the revised and most correct Bird's Eye View of the Exposition Groundsextant, which gives the readers a very adequate conception of thatmarvelous creation that--while existing only for such a brief period--hasaccomplished its mission in the highest degree, and has opened a new erain the annals of modern progress. 

SCHENECTADY, N. Y. , December, 1893. 

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I _Voyage on the Erie Canal_ Departure from Schenectady, N Y Amsterdam, Canajoharie, Little Falls Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Lyons Palmyra, Rochester, Lockport

CHAPTER II _Sojourn in Buffalo and Visit to Niagara falls_. Buffalo Harbor City of Buffalo Mill's Dry Dock Niagara Falls, American Horseshoe and Central Falls

CHAPTER III _Voyage on Three Great Lakes_ _Lake Erie_ Dunkirk, Erie, Conneaut Cleveland Amherstburg Detroit River City of Detroit Lake St Clair River St Clair Port Huron, Sarnia _Lake Huron_ Sand Beach Beacon Saginaw Bay, Tawas City, Alpena Rock-bound on Gull Island Ledge False Presqu'ile, Cheboygan Straits of Mackinaw, Mackinaw Island _Lake Michigan_ Beaver Island, Northport Frankfort, Manistee, Muskegon South Haven, Life Saving Service Michigan City, White City

CHAPTER IV _Stay in Chicago and Visit to the World's Fair_ _A Round Trip on the Exposition Grounds_ _Visit to the Midway Plaisance_ Diamond Match Co, Workingmen's Home Congress of Beauty, California Nursery and Citrus Tree Exhibit Electric Scenic Theater, Libbey Glass Works Irish Village and Donegal Castle, Japanese Bazaar Javanese Village, German Village Pompeii Panorama. Persian Theater Model of the Eiffel Tower, Street in Cairo Algerian and Tunisian Village, Kilauea Panorama American Indian Village, Chinese Village Wild East Show, Lapland Village Dahomey Village, Austrian Village Ferris Wheel, Ice Railway Cathedral of St. Peter in miniature, Moorish Palace Turkish Village, Panorama of the Bernese Alps South Sea Islanders' Village. Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena Irish Village and Blarney Castle, etc. _Visit to the Exposition Structures_. Manufactures Building and on Manufactures U. S. Government Building and on the Development of the Republic Fisheries Building and on Fisheries Agricultural Building and on Agriculture Live Stock Exhibit, Dairy and Forestry Buildings Palace of Mechanical Arts and on Machinery Administration Building Electricity Building and on Electricity, the "Golden or Happy Age" Mines and Mining Building and on Minerals Transportation Building and on Railroad, Marine, and Ordinary Road Vehicle Conveyances Palace of Horticulture and on Horticulture Liberal Arts Building. Educational Exhibits _Chicago, its Growth and Importance_ Woman's Building and on Women Art Palace and on Art Anthropological Building Foreign and State Buildings Financial Account of the World's Fair Statistical Table of International Expositions

CONCLUSION

INTRODUCTION

Experience, this greatest of all teachers, will undoubtedly have convincedmany of my readers that the most delightful voyage is only capable ofmaintaining its charms when made amidst congenial fellow-travelers. Thegrandest scenes can be fully enjoyed and duly appreciated when viewedthrough an atmosphere of physical comfort. Thus, in order to demonstratethe accuracy of the assertion:

 Voyaging with Mr. James and his family was attractive and enjoyable to me in every respect, I must make the reader acquainted with my amiable traveling companions, aswell as with their floating home, the beautiful steam yacht "Marguerite. "

Her owner, _Captain S. R. James_, is a stately, fine-looking, accomplishedgentleman, and quite a linguist. To me it was a source of unusual pleasureto discuss French and German literature occasionally during our voyagewith one who has given so much attention to these languages. 

Mr. James was styled by the Buffalo Courier "a typical New Yorker;" but heimpresses me more as a typified English gentleman of the thorough school, and this impression is confirmed as I reflect upon his conduct to thosefortunate enough to be associated with him in any capacity. 

I trust the reader will pardon me if I warmly eulogize MR. JAMES, hislovely WIFE and their FOUR sweet CHILDREN, together with Miss SARAH E. CAMPBELL, the very amiable sister of Mrs. James--who were my travelingcompanions on this eventful trip; for, certainly, I was extremelyfortunate in my _compagnons de voyage_, whom I have thus introduced to thereader. They abandoned their lovely home for the purpose of undertakingthe gigantic enterprise of making a canal and lake voyage to the WhiteCity. 

The reader may well judge that sailing on a yacht presents innumerablenovelties and advantages not attainable by any other conveyance. Since theparties on board a pleasure-boat concentrate all their thoughts to theexpected enjoyments they cast aside all irksome forms and strait-lacedhabitudes, delivering themselves up to the free air to live lessconventionally than at home. The preferableness of such an existence, freed from all unnecessary ceremonies, is still more perceptible when thetrip is of long duration and having, moreover, for its terminus theWorld's Columbian Exposition, a place where the wonders, beauties, andevidences of nature's power and man's skill are gathered from all lands. 

The great anticipations we had of our unique voyage were justified inevery respect. For it offered us the opportunity to store our memorieswith that which will never die, and to adorn them with pictures whosecolors will never fade. 

All this will be revealed subsequently to my courteous reader, who iscordially invited to follow me now on board the steam yacht, which formedour home for six eventful weeks. 

What first strikes the observer on approaching the "Marguerite, " are thegraceful lines which run from the sharp, slightly bent stem to thewell-rounded stern. So beautiful is her form, and so majestically does sherest upon the water, that you will have no difficulty to recognize her, even at a great distance. You observe that she is painted with taste, andall the mouldings are gilded; you also perceive that the railings are ofoak wood, surmounted by finely polished brass, and the deck of narrow dealplanks is as white as snow. There is nothing wanting to make her equipmentharmonize with the requirements of the present era. She has a length of ahundred feet, a width of about fifteen, with a draught of five feet eightinches; being fitted out for both steam and sail navigation. 

Now, dear reader, let us go below. If you consent, we will first visit theengine-room, since it contains the most essential part of the workingmachinery. A force of from eighty-five to ninety horse-power is developedto propel the boat. The engine is of the triple expansion type; thediameters of the cylinders being 6-1/2, 10 and 16 inches respectively. 

Are you not pleased with this piece of machinery, so elegantly finishedand neatly polished? From it you can conclude that the yacht is capable ofrunning with considerable speed, amounting to thirteen miles an hour, ifdesired. 

Let us descend to the cabin next; can anything be more tasteful andconvenient? Is it not luxurious? And, although small, does not its verylimited space astonish you when you view so many comforts? This is thedining-room. What can be more complete! Just look at this side-board, withits sumptuous outfit in silver and crystal. _A multum in parvo. _

The kitchen is admirably arranged; the spacious refrigerator making itpossible that a considerable amount of all sorts of provisions anddelicacies can be kept on board for some time. 

Let us peep into the cozy staterooms. Are they not nicely furnished?Glance at the large and comfortable berths, which can be extended so as toform double berths, as in a Pullman car. All the rooms receive light, either through side-windows or from the upper deck. Every facility forenjoying open air exercise is offered by the main deck running the wholelength of the ship. The portion pertaining to the stern is especiallycommodious, and constituted our dining-room on pleasant days. Even whenthe weather was unfavorable, the awnings which inclosed this delightfulplace formed an excellent shelter, giving the impression we were living ina large tent. 

Thus, you observe, that nothing is omitted to secure comfort. Do you seethis electric bell? Well, all the staterooms are provided with such bells, which are connected with the steward's pantry. 

Now, let us go forward. These two doors form the entrance to thepilot-house; please, step in. Here is the steering wheel, and by means ofthese brass tubes the steersman communicates with the engineer. Look upto the ceiling. It is decorated with multitudinous charts and maps. Beforewe leave this room do not forget to glance at the mariner's compass in itselegant brass case. 

Close by is the entrance to the fore-castle, which contains the men'sberths. The crew occupying them consists of the captain, the engineer, thecook, the steward, and the seamen. 

There not being accommodation for more female servants, Mrs. James wasattended by only one maid. She, however, could easily spare largerretinue, because this excellent girl has assisted her mistress inperforming the manifold domestic duties for more than fourteen years, andduring this long period Mrs. James has learned to value her for herdexterity in all female occupations. She is also a faithful guardian ofthe children for whom she tenderly cares. 

Flattering myself that I have given my kind readers a satisfactory, introductory description, I shall now advance with the narrative, andproceed on our journey, traversing the longest artificial waterway everconstructed by human hands; and sailing on the unsteady billows of thegreat lakes, which contain the largest amount of sweet water on the globe, in order to visit the World's Fair, the grandest and most completeexposition that human eyes ever beheld. 

CHAPTER I. 

VOYAGE ON THE ERIE CANAL FROM JULY 22ND, 10. 40 A. M. , TILL JULY 29TH, 1. 30P. M. 

Finally, the 22nd of July, the day appointed for our departure, hadarrived. Great was my satisfaction to find the auspices predicting fineweather; and, indeed, it was as beautiful as if Heaven smiled on ourenterprise. When taking leave of my neighbors, it was not at all with asad sentiment, for I had been well aware that I was going to undertake atrip which but few mortals are so fortunate as to participate. 

Accompanied by my dear parents I went to Dock street, where the"Marguerite" lay all ready for leaving the flourishing city ofSchenectady. 

My mother, whose domestic duties recalled her to the hearth at home, wascompelled to leave me, while my father remained on board the yacht, anxious to enjoy my company as long as circumstances would permit. Therefore, he gladly accepted Mr. James's kind invitation to accompany uson our journey for a short distance. 

Three intimate friends of Mr. James and his family were also invitedguests on the boat. These temporary traveling companions were Dr. A. Veeder, Lawyer Charles Hastings and Congressman S. J. Schermerhorn, threewell known and highly estimated gentlemen from Schenectady. 

At 11. 40 A. M. , Mr. James gave orders to haul in the lines attaching theboat to the shore; and a gun-shot at departing announced to the numerousspectators that the "Marguerite" was on the point to set out for herunusual, but most interesting trip. 

We had been sailing only a very short distance, and were just facing thebuildings of the General Electric Company, when our attention wasattracted by a photographer who seemed to be very desirous of taking aphoto of the yacht and her passengers; for he aspired to gain the mostfavorable posture, apparently quite a task under the circumstances. Howwell he succeeded in his endeavors, the readers can judge for themselvesby glancing at the frontispiece of this book. 

Resuming our journey, we soon had opportunity to admire the beautiful andfertile Mohawk Valley, once the home of one of the tribes composing theFive Nations. Arendt Van Curler, the noble founder of the "Place Beyondthe Pines, " pronounced this picturesque region the most beautiful the eyeof man had ever beheld, at a time when the country was yet in its infancy. Though great changes have taken place since that remote date (1642), thegrandeur of the scenes spread before us evidently showed that the countryhas lost little of its beauty, even at the present day, nothwithstandingthe white man has established in many places his smoking factories andnoisy looms. 

At the second lock Mr. Schermerhorn, who owns a beautiful residence nearthis place, in the Township of Rotterdam, joined our party, whereupon wecontinued sailing on the smooth surface of the canal with acceleratedspeed. 

At 2. 40 P. M. , after having passed five locks, we approached _Amsterdam_, an enterprising and prosperous city of over 20, 000 inhabitants, located inthe midst of romantic scenery. We halted at Port Jackson for a fewminutes, since this was the terminus of the voyage of Mr. Hastings and myfather. 

When parting with me, my father said:

"This short tour has sufficed me to perceive how delightful your voyagepromises to be in company with this amiable family. Thus I leave you, feeling very happy that so many pleasures and enjoyments are awaitingyou. "

I answered his kind words with a hearty parting kiss, as a token of myfilial love. 

The two gentlemen, after having abandoned the yacht, ascended the bridgethat spans the canal at that point; and bidding us farewell once more, they pursued us with their eyes until the graceful lines of the"Marguerite" had become invisible in the distance. 

Continuing our voyage, I was in perfect rapture with the ever varyingmagnificence of the luxuriant Mohawk Valley. In the afternoon the skybecame overcast and the quietude that had been prevailing was interruptedby a thunder-clap, which gave us the signal to prepare for a shower. Afterthe expiration of a few minutes the full-charged clouds poured theirdeluge upon mother earth. This natural phenomenon, however, was only ofshort duration; but sufficient to render the atmosphere most delightfullypure and refreshing. It was now a redoubled pleasure to view the manyhills and dales, adorned in every shade of verdure, varying with romanticforest scenes; all mingling into one inexpressibly rich garniture in whichNature had royally clad herself in order to give us greeting on our way. 

As we reached Fultonville, a suburban village of Fonda, about twenty-sixmiles from Schenectady, Dr. Veeder and Congressman Schermerhorn partedwith us, wishing us a pleasurable voyage. 

The "Marguerite, " gliding along, neared the vicinity of Sprakers whensuddenly the "heaven grew black again with the storm-cloud's frown, " and aflash of lightning illuminated the sky with crimson radiance. It is for amoment as if the horizon was in flames, a spectacle glorious to behold. Another minute and a peal of thunder reaches our ears. Then the dark, heavy clouds discharge their contents in copious abundance. 

 "In grateful silence earth receives The general blessing: fresh and fair Each flower expands its little leaves As glad the common joy to share. "

While it is still raining, "The sun breaks forth, from off the scene Its floating veil of mist is flung. And all the wilderness of green With trembling drops of light is hung. "

A magnificent rainbow, spanning the boundless arch on high, embellishesthis superb panorama. 

As the sunset was bathing all summits in soft, crimson light, and the palelustre of the orbed moon appeared in the east, we arrived at_Canajoharie_. 

This small town, noted for its fine stone quarries, was chosen for ourabode over Sunday, and busy hands carried out the order to safely moor ourcraft near the bridge pertaining to the main street. 

When taking a long walk about the town, I found that, although inferior insize, it is a very desirable place for summer residences; beingbeautifully situated on romantic slopes crowned with elegant and tastyvillas. 

Canajoharie is regularly and appropriately laid out with wide, well keptand adequately lighted thoroughfares, and many citizens reside in spaciousand architecturally ornamented houses. It is a recognized center of trade, from which agricultural products of all kinds are shipped. 

In the first historic record, dated 1757, the place was styled "FortCannatchocary, " and mentioned as a prospering settlement. Incorporated asa town in 1788, its population has been rapidly increasing since then, and now is estimated to amount to more than 3, 000. 

It was a glorious morning, the 24th of July, as we left Canajoharie. Thesun rose up into a cloudless heaven and poured a flood of gorgeoussplendor over the landscape, as if proud of the realm he shone upon. 

When I entered the pilot-house I found Mr. James, in the absence of thecaptain, busy steering the yacht, and in the course of our long voyage Ioften had opportunity to admire his abilities as a navigator. On manyoccasions I observed that he was very cautious in all his proceedings;that he took nothing for granted, and was only convinced of a fact whenproperly certified by ocular demonstration. 

Engaged in a French conversation with the dexterous commodore, the time, as well as the vessel, was rapidly gliding along; the latter beingassisted by a little breeze that rippled the surface of the water. So, after a three miles' ride, we approached _Fort Plain_, which boasts ofnumerous factories, and also the largest spring and axle works of theworld. The Clinton Liberal Institute, one of the leading military schoolsof the State, occupies a commanding position, overlooking the valley. Thesite of old Fort Plain, of revolutionary memory, is within the villagelimits. 

Having passed Cox and Mindenville, a route of nine miles brought us intothe proximity of the busy town of _Little Falls_, which has a populationof about 10, 000. It is romantically situated, and many elegant dwellingsstand upon steep acclivities, commanding views of grand and attractivesceneries. The chief products of the numerous manufactories are knitgoods. Little Falls is also one of the principal cheese markets of theEmpire State. The Mohawk river supplies the place with abundantwater-power, having at this point a fall of forty-five feet in half amile. 

Still proceeding on our voyage, the town was soon out of sight. The sunshone with the clearest splendor from the zenith, beautifully illuminingthe smiling valleys, wooded hills, sparkling brooks and dimpled lakes, which makes this landscape scene so attractive. We were unable to leaveour seats on the stern-deck; for everything around us seemed to haveassumed the character of enchantment, and--had I been educated in theGrecian mythology--I should scarcely have been surprised to find anassemblage of Dryads, Naiads and Oreads sporting on the plain beside us. 

After having viewed Mohawk, eight miles from Little Falls; Herkimer, atown of about 5, 000 inhabitants; Ilion, with a population of nearly thesame number, and Frankfort, four miles from Utica, we reached the lattercity as

 "The sunset gorgeous dyes, Paled slowly from the skies, "

having achieved forty-two miles that day. 

_Utica_ contains approximately 47, 000 residents. At the time of therevolution it was a frontier trading-post and the site of Fort Schuyler, built to guard the settlements against the French and Indians. 

We made arrangements to remain in this city over night. 

A long walk through Utica made us acquainted with a regular and handsomelybuilt city, which rises from the south bank of the Mohawk River to anelevation of 150 feet. Among the stately buildings are six large hotels, the handsome city hall, the postoffice and the bank edifice. There is alsoa State Lunatic Asylum. Utica, being in the center of a great dairyregion, has become the most important cheese market in the United States. 

Genesee Street is the principal thoroughfare lined with large blocks ofcommercial houses. 

The city has not yet attained its centennial; but during its history ofless than a century it has experienced a wonderful growth, especiallyduring the last fifty years. 

At 7 o'clock the next morning we resumed our voyage, sailing on theso-called sixty mile level; having thus the delightful prospect not tobe detained by going through numerous locks. 

We were also _in limine_ of the far-famed lake region, and soon traversedone of the finest portions of New York State. 

Passing the hamlets of York Mills, Whitesboro and Oriskany, the"Marguerite" advanced near to the city of _Rome_ towards 10 o'clock A. M. In its vicinity the famous battle of Oriskany was fought; and FortStanwix, which was besieged by the British in 1777, occupies a site now inthe center of the city of Rome. The latter is laid out with wide streetswell shaded with maples and elms. In the resident portion, a very highartistic taste has been displayed in the erection of dwelling houses. Although this thriving city of almost 16, 000 inhabitants has not so manypoints of interest as its namesake, the ancient metropolis of the gloriousRoman empire, whose wealth of antiquities is perfectly marvelous and whoserelics of classical and papal times are alike almost innumerable; still itpossesses one interesting feature that ought not to be left unmentioned:It was here that cheese was first made in factories. 

Other important manufactures are merchantable iron, brass and copper, locomotives and agricultural implements. 

Greatly favored by the clemency of the weather, we sped through thisbeautiful region, which is a never ending source of interest to thetourist, sailing past New London, Grove Springs, Higginsville, Dunbarton, State Bridge, Durhamville, Lenox Basin, Canastota, New Boston, Chittenango, Bolivar, Pool's Brook, Kirkville, Manlius and Lodi. At thelatter place the bed of the canal suddenly widens considerably, beingabout twice its average width. Entering that portion of the grandartificial waterway, we found its waters so shallow that we could plainlydiscern its rocky bed. 

We entered the city of _Syracuse_ when the last streak of daylight hadfaded from the west and the blush on the waters was followed by thereflection of the far blue arch and its starry host. 

Opposite the city hall, a magnificent structure, the "Marguerite" was madefast to repose after a fifty-five miles' course that day. 

Syracuse, situated in the heart of New York State, has been appropriatelynamed the "Central City. " Its wonderful growth for the past twenty yearsentitles it to rank amongst the foremost cities of the East. It has apopulation of nearly 100, 000, and is one of the leading manufacturingtowns of the country. For a long period Syracuse practically controlledthe salt product of the United States; in fact, it was that which firstgave the place its importance. The existence of the vast salt springs ofOnondaga was known to the Indians at an early date, and the secret was bythem imparted to the Jesuits in 1654. The State took possession of thesprings in 1794; and laws were passed for the conduct of the manufacture. Although numerous companies are now engaged in this industry, itconstitutes a comparatively small factor in the commercial interests ofthe city, inasmuch as it possesses at the present time over five hundredindustrial establishments; giving employment to not less than twentythousand people. 

The city is handsomely laid out, containing many fine public buildings andprivate residences. 

When I came on deck the following morning the rain fell in heavy showers. A cloud appeared to open directly over our heads, and let down the wateralmost in one body, but at 7. 15, as the violence of the rainfall hadsomewhat abated, we departed from Syracuse, sailing past Geddes, Bell'isleand Canton, where we struck another shallow place in the canal. As weapproached Peru the mists were rolling away, which gradually, as theybecame thinner, received and transmitted the rays of the sun; illuminatingthem with a golden radiance, increasing every minute in splendor, untilthey vanished. 

Therefore, it was a redoubled pleasure to glance at the green plainsstudded with yet greener woodlands; the little mountains raising theircrests, and the lovely lakes gleaming like floods of molten silver. 

Thus we journeyed along past Weedsport, Centerport, Port Byron, Montezuma, Pitt Lock, Clyde and Lock Berlin. 

Nearly midway between Syracuse and Rochester, forty-nine miles from theformer city, we halted, choosing _Lyons_ for our night's lodging. Thetown, having a population of almost 6, 000, is the seat of Wayne County, which produces more dried fruit than any other county in the State. Theoil of peppermint forms an important product of manufacture, there being ascore of peppermint distilleries yielding annually more than 100, 000pounds of this costly oil. 

Thursday, the 27th of July, as the tints of a bright morning reddened theeastern sky, we pursued our journey, greatly delighted with the cool andrefreshing atmosphere. Speeding along we passed Arcadia; Newark, athriving town, numbering about 4, 000 inhabitants; and Palmyra, seven milesbeyond, with broad and well shaded streets. 

Two miles south of _Palmyra_ Joe Smith, the founder of Mormonism, claimedto have dug from a hill, which now bears the name of Mormon Hill, thegolden plates constituting the first Mormon Bible. 

Sailing by the villages of Lower and Upper Macedon, Pittsford was reached;a beautiful town of more than 3, 000 inhabitants and one of the oldestsettlements in that part of the State. Here is located the famous"Pittsford Farm, " which is one of the finest stock farms in the East. Itis at this place that Shetland ponies, Jersey cattle and Angora cats areraised in great numbers. Uncountable varieties of water-fowl can always beseen at this point. 

Having passed Brighton, we arrived at _Rochester_ long ere the first golddye of sunset was stealing into the vast blue arch on high, havingtraveled forty-two miles that day. 

Near the center of the city destined for our nightly abode, a multitude ofcurious spectators had assembled in order to view the handsome yacht. Imade the observation that during our entire voyage the "Marguerite, "wherever she made her appearance, was universally admired. 

The important city of Rochester is situated on the Genesee River, sevenmiles south of its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is one of the leadingmanufacturing cities of the country, having more than 150, 000 inhabitants. In 1802 it was founded by Colonel Nathaniel Rochester, a representativepioneer of the Genesee River Valley. In 1834 it received its charter as acity, and has since increased in population and importance with marvelousrapidity. The fertility of the surrounding country and the splendidwater-power furnished by the Genesee River, together with unexcelledtransportation facilities, have contributed largely to its growth. 

Both in the latter part of the afternoon and evening, we deserted theyacht for the purpose of admiring the various beauties and points ofinterest, which give this town such a far spread reputation. 

We received the conviction that Rochester, in fact, deserves its fame. Covering an area of about seventeen square miles, it is laid out chieflyin squares, with streets from sixty to one hundred feet wide, shaded bybeautiful trees. It abounds in handsome and tasteful residences, which arefor the most part surrounded by carefully tended lawns and gardens. Itsfire-proof office buildings and warehouses, are a credit to the city; onlyfew, even in the metropolis, are equal to them in magnificence. 

In the center of the city are the upper Falls of the Genesee, aperpendicular cataract of ninety-six feet, over which Sam Patch made hislast and fatal leap. 

To the prominent public institutions of Rochester belong the StateIndustrial School, two large hospitals, an Institution for Deaf-Mutes, andcharitable organizations of every description. The principal businessthoroughfare, Main Street, is in the heart of the city, and crosses theriver over a handsome iron bridge. 

The manufactures of Rochester are extensive and varied. In early yearsflour was the chief product, giving it the title "Flour City;" there beingno less than eighteen mills within its limits. Rochester might be alsoappropriately styled the "Flower City, " for its nursery trade is hardlysurpassed by that of any other place in the world. The suburbs are highlycultivated, having 4, 000 acres of fruit trees, and nurseries containingfrom 250 to 500 acres. 

Other important industries are cotton and paper mills; oil refineries;boot and shoe, clothing, furniture, perfumery and tobacco manufactories. 

A feature that attracts thousands of visitors daily, is the great PowersArt Gallery, the private property of Mr. D. W. Powers, occupying thegreater part of the two upper floors pertaining to the Powers Building. 

In fact, a plentitude of resources makes the city interesting to thetourist. 

The next day, when "morn was blushing in the sky, " we bade farewell toRochester; and, sailing on the other sixty-mile level, we continued ourjourney through a charming region past Greece, Spencerport, King & Adams, Cooley's Basin, and arrived at the attractive village of Brockport. Beautifully situated in the midst of a country teeming with abundance andinhabited by a prosperous and contented population, it contains manyfeatures of interest. Here is located a State Normal School, and alsoseveral extensive manufactories of agricultural implements. 

Passing Holley, Hulberton and Hindsburg, we came to Albion, the capital ofOrleans County. The latter village is nicely laid out with wide streetsand shaded by large trees. It contains many handsome residences and publicbuildings. 

Having proceeded more westward, beyond Eagle Harbor and Knowlesville, wecaught sight of the pleasant town of Medina, about midway betweenRochester and Buffalo, noted for its quarries of dark-red sandstone. Located in the midst of a fine fruit country, it has the reputation ofbeing one of the best fruit markets in the State. Speeding through thethriving villages of Middleport, Reynall's Basin and Cataract Springs, weneared a deep ravine, through which the Erie Canal passes, following anatural waterway. Here we met the most remarkable drop of the canal, inits chain of five continuous double locks, resembling a flight of stairs. 

Entering these, the "Marguerite" gradually rose higher and higher; andwhen quitting the last of them, she had been lifted up to an elevation ofsixty feet by these five locks, and if we had not observed the busy handsworking for our ascent, we might have been inclined to imagine that aninvisible cloud was slowly carrying us to unknown regions on high. 

We made _Lockport_ our resting-place for the night; since the sun hadwheeled his broad disk already down into the west and the heavens werebrightened only by the parting smiles of the day. 

Going on shore, we visited Lockport, a prosperous city with about 20, 000inhabitants, which is the center of a large paper and pulp industry. 

A five hours' journey on Saturday morning, July 29th, past Pendleton, Picardsville, Martinsville, Tonawanda and Lower Black Rock, completed ourcharming trip on the Erie Canal, which has from Schenectady to Buffalo alength of 323 miles. 

The construction of this great artificial waterway, in all nearly 350miles long, having an elevation of about 500 feet above tide water, madeby seventy-two locks, was commenced in 1817, and its completion took placein 1825. Although this immense undertaking has caused an expense of$50, 000, 000, the State of New York has made an excellent investment withthat sum of money; since by means of the Erie Canal the domestic tradebetween the large western inland towns and the eastern seaports, especially the metropolis, is considerably facilitated. This traffic willreceive a still greater importance, and can be more advantageously carriedon, when the plan of utilizing the electric current for the driving powerof canal-boats--a project recently tested by experiments--has beensuccessfully executed. 

Prior to 1857, this waterway was used for both trade and passengertransportation. Since the introduction of railroad communication, however, the canal has been the medium of conveying merchandise only; wherefore, our interesting trip on the steam-yacht "Marguerite" is one of a fewexceptions to the ordinary routine of the Erie Canal. 

CHAPTER II. 

SOJOURN IN BUFFALO AND VISIT TO NIAGARA FALLS, FROM JULY 29TH, 1. 30 P. M. , TO AUGUST 2ND, 7 A. M. 

It was a bright and sunny day; the atmosphere being purified by a strongbut refreshing breeze. As the noonday sun poured his brilliant rays on thetowering hills which adorn the luxuriant banks of the canal, it wasannounced that in the distance there could be discerned the dark linewhich indicated our approach to the verdant tract encompassing thethriving city of _Buffalo_, the terminus of our voyage on the Erie Canal. 

While the boat was speeding along, this point upon which our attention waschiefly fixed, became more cognizable with every minute. Rising upwards toour left we could perceive domes of the most graceful proportions, towering structures, for number and form beyond my power to describe. Onthe other side, there lay spread before us, in vast expanse, the unrivaledwater front which skirts the city of Buffalo, extending two and one-halfmiles along the shore of Lake Erie and two and one-half miles alongNiagara River. 

As we entered the harbor of Buffalo, which is considered the largest andfinest on the lake, we were soon made acquainted with scenes and incidentsthat have no common fascination; in fact, one must be surprised at thetremendous amount of activity displayed here. The scores of huge grainelevators, having a total capacity of 8, 000, 000 bushels, and the mammothwarehouses lining the water fronts reminded one of New York and Brooklyn. 

Large steamers and sailing vessels, of every description, are being loadedand discharged; powerful steam-hoists in operation on the docks; immensequantities of freight and merchandise in process of transfer to and fromthe railroad cars; and bustle everywhere; while hundreds of pleasure-boatsand small crafts, of every conceivable variety, may be seen as far as theeye can reach. There we saw the trim and dainty shell, with its arrow-likeprow, darting through the quiet coves; the saucy catamaran shooting, halfsubmerged, out before the wind; the cozy little steam-launches, all readyto take their passengers to some suburban pleasure-ground; excursionsteamers, with flying banners and bands of music going and coming, andmammoth propellers destined to carry thousands of tourists to the ElDorado on Lake Michigan's blue waters. 

It will not be difficult to understand why Buffalo has attained commercialsupremacy in Western New York, if you add to this never ceasing activity, betokening business, the enormous canal traffic; for it is here whereinnumerable canal-boats are weighted with the rich products of the west, carrying a large floating population of boatmen's families. 

Before selecting our mooring place in Buffalo Creek, which can benavigated for about one mile, we sailed to the breakwater, a solid wallseveral feet high, having a length of 4, 000 feet, which was erected at theexpense of some millions of dollars for the protection of the city frombeing flooded by the unruly waters of Lake Erie. 

While the tanks of the yacht were being filled with the limpid water ofthe lake, we ascended the stairs leading to the top of the protectingwall; for we all were anxious to become acquainted with the nature of thebillows that were to carry us many miles westward and nearer to our fardestination. 

It was a glorious sight unfolded before our eyes. We glanced at a hugesheet of water, about 268 miles long, varying from thirty to nearly sixtymiles in width, with an area of 9600 square miles, whose elevation fromtide water is judged to be 564 feet. 

This majestic spectacle, as animated as it was, imparted to us an adequateconception of a boisterous inland sea. The surface of the lake was in wilduproar; the advancing and retreating waves were beating themselves intoangry foam, and dashed their spray pearls almost to our feet; theiropulent azure hue being dimmed by the violent agitation. The inexperiencedeye has no idea of the imposing impression caused by the extremelysubitaneous changes to which these waters are subjected. The wide bosom ofthe lake that sometimes lies motionless and glassy, without a breath ofair to cause the slightest undulation, in a very short time may bescourged by a sudden gale. The wild gambols of the waves, accompanied bythe roar of the disturbed elements, may well cause the timid to fear; for, as the swell lifts, you would think the bases of the earth are risingbeneath it; and, again, when it falls, you would imagine the foundation ofthe deep had given away. 

Though the billows before us now were beaten by a powerful breeze, breaking with angry roar upon the barrier upon which we stood, yet not theslightest feeling of fear found place within our hearts. On the contrary, as we left the breakwater in order to return to Buffalo, I felt my heartpalpitating with joy as I thought of the pleasing prospect to be tossed bythose grand waves. 

Having chosen a place at the foot of Main Street for our stay, the ordersto secure the "Marguerite" were instantly carried out; and immediately amultitude of curious beholders had gathered around the yacht, viewing herwith evident expression of admiration. 

Since it was yet early in the afternoon we decided to go on shore, inorder to view the points of interest in this important city. 

A ride in the electric railway, traversing it in every direction, made usacquainted with a good portion of Buffalo, which contains a population ofnearly 300, 000, being the third city in size in the Empire State. It ishandsomely laid out with broad and well shaded streets. One hundred andthree miles are paved with asphalt, and 133 miles with stone. We saw manyfine residences with attractive grounds, and numerous public squares. Delaware Avenue, the leading street for elegant mansions, is about threemiles long, and is lined with a double row of trees. 

The city possesses a superb system of parks and pleasure grounds, designedand laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of Central Park inNew York City. It comprises three sections, situated respectively in thenorthern, western, and eastern parts of Buffalo, which, with theconnecting boulevard, afford a drive of nearly ten miles. 

Main Street, the principal trading thoroughfare, has many substantialbusiness blocks. 

Of the prominent public buildings, the city and county hall deserves beingmentioned in the first place. It is an imposing structure, of Mainegranite, in the form of a double Roman cross, with a tower 245 feet high, surmounted by four statues. This magnificent edifice is fronting onFranklin Street, and was completed in 1880 at a cost of nearly $1, 500, 000. 

Other handsome buildings are the U. S. Custom house and postoffice, at thecorner of Washington and Seneca Streets; the Buffalo library, on LafayetteSquare; the State arsenal, in Broadway; the Erie County penitentiary, oneof the six penal establishments of New York; the general hospital, in HighStreet; and the State asylum for the insane, an edifice which cost about$3, 000, 000, located in Forest Avenue, adjoining the Buffalo Park. 

The city is also adorned with several handsome churches and theaters. 

Buffalo was first settled by the Dutch in 1801, and became an importantmilitary post during the war of 1812. It was burned by a combined force ofBritish and Indians in 1814. Its city charter was granted in 1832, andsince then its growth has been very rapid. 

As regards its live-stock trade, Buffalo ranks third among the cities inthe Union, and its iron and steel works are next in importance to those ofPittsburg. The shipment of Pennsylvania coal, which finds a depot here, has been greatly increased in recent years; about 1, 500, 000 tons beingdistributed annually. The lumber trade is also large, but has been partlydiverted to Tonawanda, ten miles below Buffalo. 

The industrial works comprise four blast furnaces, large rolling mills, machine shops, car shops, iron ship-yards, stove foundries, tanneries, flour mills, and manufacturing of agricultural implements. 

Early on Monday morning, I abandoned the land of dreams in order to appearon deck in good season; since arrangements had been made for going intodry-dock that very morning. 

Reader, have you ever been there? I hear you answer negatively. Well, thatis just what I expected; for it is a rather unusual and rare experiencefor ladies, even in the eyes of a shipwright, a man who is constantlyemployed in that place, that a boat enters the dry-dock with herpassengers on board. 

It was partly a matter of necessity, and partly of circumspection, thatcaused us to abide in the dry-dock for a few hours. 

In consequence of the numerous low bridges that span the canal, the spars, rigging, and smoke-stack belonging to the complete equipment of the"Marguerite" would have made her journey on that artificial waterwayabsolutely impossible; therefore it was necessary to replace these partsin their appropriate positions. 

The picture in the frontispiece gives evidence of that fact; as the"Marguerite" presented a very different picture completely rigged. 

Now, on the point of sailing on the Great Lakes, it was requisite to dressthe yacht in her proper array, with her high tapering masts; the cords ofher rigging stretching from spar to spar with the beautiful accuracy of apicture; and so equipped, as to give her the appearance of a majestic, white winged sea-bird resting gracefully on the water. 

For the purpose of bestowing upon her such an outfit, as well as forhaving her bottom examined, she was docked in Mill's dry-dock. The lattermotive, I must add, was effected by a mere act of precaution; since nocomponents of the propelling machinery had been injured or damaged. 

But Mr. James, our ever thoughtful commodore, wished to be assured that hecould direct the "Marguerite" on her westward course with everythingpertaining to her in complete order. 

These docks may be in communication either with a wet dock or a tidalharbor. I observed that the dry-dock we entered had a pontoon gate, floated in or out of place as desired. There being no tides in the lakes, this style of gate--less liable to leak under continuous pressure--isinvariably used; for the only method of emptying the docks here is bypumping, for which purpose a steam-engine and pumps, with a well and waterchannel leading to it, were employed. 

We scarcely had made our entry into it, ere many busy hands worked to givethe keel of the yacht a secure rest on wooden blocks which were fasteneddown to prevent them floating. They were of such a height as to permit theshipwright getting under the vessel's bottom. Then side shores were put into keep the boat in an upright position. This being accomplished, I couldnotice that the pumping machinery was brought into full operation. Soon Ifound that the level of the water became lower and lower, and after theexpiration of about one-half hour the dock was almost dry. 

The sides of the dock generally consist of stone steps--called altars--forthe purpose of fixing the lower ends of the shores, and also for theconvenience of supporting the workmen's scaffold. 

Mr. James and family, including myself, left the yacht to the crew andworkmen, while we further explored the city of Buffalo in carriages, thoughtfully provided for us. 

The day after our entering dry-dock, August 1st, was eventful, as it wasarranged we should make an excursion to view one of Nature's greatestwonders--_Niagara Falls_--a sight unlike any other on the surface of theglobe. The indescribable grandeur of the whole overwhelms the soul--tocontemplate that tremendous torrent which never stops! No rest in the agesof the past--no promise of a moment's stay in all the years to come--buton, on, with resistless force!

Our thoughts become like the mists that rise above this awful scene, andwe are mute--Pigmies of an hour! To feel that after what we are becomes alittle dust, that solemn roar will echo in the ears of millions nowunborn!

Though I had read diverse descriptions portraying the grandeur andmagnificence of Niagara Falls, still I was aware that they had failed inconveying a clear and succinct outline of their wonderful proportions andgreat sublimity. My conclusions that, in older to be properly appreciatedthese gigantic cataracts must be visited, were confirmed, and, _re vera_, when once viewed the recollection of that glorious sight will linger longin memory. 

An hour's ride in the cars brought us to the village of Niagara Falls, asplendid manufacturing point, having all modern improvements andunsurpassed railway facilities of various kinds. The village wasincorporated in 1848, and has about 4, 000 inhabitants. 

The average annual number of visitors to this beautiful place is estimatedto be 400, 000. 

At the station of Niagara Falls, Mr. James engaged vehicles which affordedaccommodations for all of us--a party of ten--including the steward, whoaccompanied us, carrying a bountiful repast. 

The drivers of Niagara Falls are excellent _ciceroni_. We drove throughthe handsome village to Prospect Park, a property owned by the State ofNew York, and included in the Niagara Reservation, which the Stateacquired by purchase in 1885. All the unsightly buildings, heretoforeobstructing the view, have been removed, and a terrace was erected for adistance of half a mile, affording uncountable attractions to the visitorwith its venerable trees, comfortable seats, and delightful views. 

The main entrance is a tasty structure at the foot of Cascade Street. Thepoint of land at the brink of the falls is called _Prospect Point_. Sinceit commands a fine view, which is the feature of the park, our driversadvised us to abandon the carriages and to step nearer to the long stonewall running for some distance along the edge of the gorge. 

Standing on the platform, I glanced at the mighty volume of water; hereprecipitated over a huge rock 163 feet high with a thunderlike roar thatcan be heard, under favorable circumstances, a distance of fifteen miles. 

For a long time we remained there, spell-bound by the wonderful panorama, plunged into a reverie of rapture. Mrs. James, reminding me the carriageswere waiting for us, brought me back to consciousness. 

The spectacle is so sublime and overwhelming that the mind, unable tograsp it, cannot adjust itself at once to a scale so stupendous, and theimpression fails. But, gradually, as you remain longer, the unvarying, ponderous, unspeakably solemn voice of the great flood finds its way tothe soul, and holds it with a fascination which is all pervasive andcannot be shaken off. 

In a car, moving on an inclined plane, we descended to the water's edge. These cars are raised and lowered by water-power, by means of a three-inchcable 300 feet long, running over steel wheels. 

At the foot of the stairway, tickets may be obtained for the trip on the"Maid of the Mist, " that steams up to the Horseshoe Fall; then back to theCanadian side, and finally returns to her starting point. 

The view from below presented to us new charms which we could not obtainbefore. In the first place the enormous height of the cataract may bebetter realized from beneath; then the emerald and opal translucence ofthe waters, as they pass in their swift career, was here especiallyeffective; since the sun, shining through the mists of spray from astation in the heavens most advantageous for our prospect, crowned theentire scene with iridescent diadems. This fall is known as the American, separated from the "Horseshoe" or "Canadian Fall" by a large island, standing on the verge of the cliff over which the cataract pours, anddividing the river in such a manner as to form from its waters the twoabove named falls. 

After a lovely ride through the beautiful woodland we viewed Goat Island, having an area of 61-1/2 acres and a circumference of about one mile. Astrip about ten rods wide and eighty rods long, has been washed away onthe south side since the first road was made in 1818. 

This island was, in ancient times, one of the favorite burying-grounds ofthe Indians, and yet preserves traces of their funeral rites. 

Crossing the first bridge, from which we had one of the grandest views ofthe rapids, we reached Bath Island, some two acres in extent. A secondbridge conveyed us to Goat Island, where we witnessed a most charmingpanorama. Descending the stairs, we stood next to the Little Fall, beneathwhich is the famous Cave of the Winds. 

From the farther point of Luna Island, attainable by a little bridge, wesaw the most desirable near view of the American Fall and Rapids; here, too, we enjoyed a fine spectacle in the perspective of the gorge below. 

It has often been remarked by strangers that this island trembles, whichis undoubtedly true, but the impression is heightened by imagination. 

Not far from Luna Island are the famous Biddle Stairs. Shortly after theirerection, in 1829, the well known Sam Patch, whose diving propensitiesmade his name illustrious, performed his noted, bold feat in 1830. Midwaybetween the foot of these stairs and the Canadian Fall he built ascaffold, ninety-six feet high, from which he made his successful leapinto the river. 

Proceeding a little further, we stood in full view of the HorseshoeFall--so-called because of its crescent shape--which contains by far thegreater body of water; the fall being more than 2, 000 feet wide and 154feet high. 

The site of the old Terrapin Tower is the best point from which toperceive the shape of the fall. 

From the south side of the island the Three Sister Islands are accessible, affording the finest views of the rapids. These islands offer, from theirlocation, a delightfully cool retreat in the warmest summer days, withattractive and enchanting scenery. 

In order to have a comprehensive glance of Nature's grandest wonder knownto man, in its climax of sublimity, we took a ride back through ProspectPark, across the New Suspension Bridge, below the American Fall, to theCanadian shore. This splendid drive was continued through the QueenVictoria Niagara Falls Park, opened to the public in 1889. 

Following the example of New York State, the Ontario Parliament had passedan act to reserve the western side of the Falls vicinity--the CanadianReservation--covering an area of about 154 acres, and beautifully laidout. 

Here we had the most imposing view; a finer panorama cannot well beimagined. 

The concussion of the descending waters with those in the depths belowoccasion a spray that veils the cataract two-thirds up its height. Abovethis everlasting and impenetrable foam, there rises fifty feet above thefall a cloud of lighter spray, which, when the rays of the sun aredirected upon it, displays solar rainbows, grand in their magnificence. 

It was here on Table Rock, formerly one of the most celebrated pointsabout Niagara, that Mrs. Lydia Huntley Sigourney wrote her spirited eulogyon Niagara, which commences with the musical rhymes:

 "Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on, Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantled around thy feet. And he doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of him Eternally, --bidding the lip of man Keep silence, --and upon thine altar pour Incense of awe-struck praise. "

Three miles below the falls is the Whirlpool, a vast basin formed by theprojection of a rocky promontory on the Canadian side, against which thewaters rush with such violence as to cause a severe reaction and rotarymotion; and in it logs and trees are frequently whirled around for weeksin succession. 

Geology has accepted as a matter of certitude that within the memory ofmen now living, the Falls have receded 100 feet, and authorities in thatscience have stated the fact, that the retrocession--estimated from oneinch to one foot per year--began near Lewiston. The whole waters of thelakes there foamed over this dam several miles in width. 

The name "Niagara" is supposed to belong to the vocabulary of the Iroquoislanguage, meaning "Thunderer of Waters. "

The first white visitor to Niagara Falls was Father Hennepin, a priest andhistorian, accompanying Chevalier Robert de la Salle on his discoveries. He published the first description of "this wonderful Downfall" in 1678. 

There exist now three distinct cataracts, which are known as _Horseshoe_, _American_, and _Central Falls_. The weight of water descending over thecadences in a single hour, is computed to be 100, 000, 000 tons. 

The magnitude of the great waterfalls, and their fame as a natural wonder, had, heretofore, to a certain degree, excluded from thought the idea oftheir marvelous utilarian properties; but the recent development ofelectrical science, and the far-reaching enterprise of to-day, have nowcombined to subject to the uses of mankind a portion of the power of thefalls, developed at such a distance from the great cataract as not tointerfere in any way with the natural beauty of the scenery. 

As the western sky was dyed with the tints of sunset, we hastened to reachour floating home; since we expected two friends of Miss Campbell on boardthe yacht--a gentleman who holds a prominent position in Buffalo, Mr. J. B. Seitz, and his charming wife. We returned with the exhalting sentiment ofhaving visited a temple of nature, to whose shrine thousands from all overthe world annually pay their tribute of praise. 

Arriving on board the "Marguerite" that--though still in dry-dock--was notlaid dry any more, we perceived a striking contrast between the close andsaturated atmosphere prevailing here, and the pure, balmy air at NiagaraFalls. 

Our thoughtful commodore, desirous of giving us the opportunity to inhalethe refreshing sea-breeze, ordered our departure for the breakwater assoon as circumstances permitted; intending early on the following morningto commence our lake journey. The obscurity was fast increasing as weneared the high stone wall, and the scenery around me made the verses ofWhittier resound in my ears in which he described the "Evening by the LakeSide" so beautifully with the words:

 "Yon mountain's side is black with night, While broad-orbed, o'er its gleaming crown The moon, slow rounding into sight, On the hushed inland-sea looks down. "

CHAPTER III. 

VOYAGE ON THREE GREAT LAKES, FROM AUGUST 2ND, 7 A. M. , TO AUGUST 22ND, 9A. M. 

As the warm rays of the morning sun were lighting up the scene with aradiance, glorious to behold, we bade farewell to Buffalo which, beingalready in some distance, soon became entirely invisible. 

Indescribable was our amazement when we viewed once more the waters of_Lake Erie_, whose raging billows had betrayed to us, only a few days ago, the unruly nature of a boisterous inland-sea. 

Now, as we were gliding on its surface, the lake presented an appearancequite novel to us; being almost motionless, a true emblem of tranquillityand peacefulness. Only now and then a gentle zephyr rippled its levelwhich, reflected in the sunbeams, appeared like an undulating mass ofsilver. The cloudless heavens, clad in their brightest hue of azure blue, and illumined by the golden sun, painted a great variety of fine images oflight and shade on the limpid waters beneath. The sky seemed to reflectthe water and the water the sky, both gleaming in the sunshine. 

On our right, the lake made the impression of stretching into endless, unlimited space; on our left, however, we could distinguish romantichills, decorated by massive groves, with crossing and intersectingpromontories, and fair valleys tenanted by numerous flocks and herds, thatseemed to wander unrestrained through the rich pastures. The luxuriantlandscape was intercepted here and there by undulating slopes, coveredwith sand, whose light color contrasted with the verdure of vales andhillocks. 

Speeding along, we came abreast of _Dunkirk_, a lake-port town inChautauqua County, N. Y. , situated on a small bay in Lake Erie, forty milessouthwest of Buffalo. The town, which has a population of over 5, 000, occupies an elevated and favorable position on the lake. Its industriescomprise oil refineries, and the manufacture of flour and iron-work. 

After proceeding on our voyage for some hours, we viewed--located in anatural bay--the harbor of _Erie_, the capital of Erie County, Penn. Theport is protected by a breakwater three and one-half miles long. 

The principal shipments that leave this harbor, are coal, iron, andpetroleum; an important trade being carried on with the Canadianlake-ports. 

The streets of the city are spacious and laid out with great regularity. To its prominent buildings belong the postoffice, the opera house, thecity hospital, the court house, and the orphan asylum. Erie containsnearly 20, 000 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in iron manufacture. The large supply of water required for the factories is obtained from thelake by powerful engines, which force it to a tower 200 feet high, whenceit is distributed through the mains. The chief industries developed here, are petroleum refineries and leather factories. 

It was at Erie, that Commodore Perry equipped the vessels which in 1813defeated the British fleet on Lake Erie. In the year 1795 the town waslaid out, and in 1851 it received a city charter. 

Still fascinated by the attractions of the everchanging landscape alongthe southern coast, we had forgotten that _fugit hora_; for we weregreatly surprised to perceive the approaching twilight, indicating theparting day, and the white beams of the young crescent just beginning tosteal over the lately flushed and empurpled scene. 

Therefore, the "Marguerite" was cabled to the dock, about two miles fromthe village of _Conneaut_. 

A fresh and palpitating evening air invited us to a walk along the coastof the beautiful inland-sea. Adopting an unfrequented path through a vastplain of sand, we found the charming scenery enhanced by a solemnstillness. All nature slumbered. 

Here, witnessing a magnificent prospect in this lovely solitude, weexperienced one of those seasons when the atmosphere is so surcharged withluxury, that every pore of the body becomes an ample gate for sensation toflow in; and one has simply to sit still and to be filled. 

Seated near the shore, we delivered ourselves up to the exquisiteloveliness around us; and when returning on board the yacht, theimpression of the superb panorama tarried with me, even into the realm ofMorpheus; so that I rose on the following morning with the remembrance ofdelicious dreams. 

When I came on deck, the air seemed to be sweet with perfumes; the watersparkled brightly, and the blue sky hung cloudless over the placid mirrorof Lake Erie. 

Thus, favored by the weather, the majestic steam-yacht resumed her voyage. 

After the lapse of two hours the harbor of Ashtabula came in sight, and atabout 10 o'clock we approached Fair Point. The noon-tide of the summer daywas past, as we were made acquainted with the fact, that the rising towersand pinnacles, to be discerned in the distance on our left, pertained tothe beautiful "Forest City, " next to Cincinnati the largest and mostimportant city in the State of Ohio. 

_Cleveland_ is built on both sides of the Cuyahoga River, which is herecrossed by several bridges. It is located chiefly on a plain from fifty to100 feet above the lake, of which a magnificent view is thus obtained. 

Leaving East River Street, where our floating home was destined to remain, I undertook an excursion through the greater portion of the city; notsolely for the purpose of viewing the regular streets, generally fromeighty to 100 feet wide, and lined with maple trees, but with the designto see a friend--Miss Lina Uhl--a teacher in one of the thirty publicschools; holding a prominent position as the president of a teachers'association in Cleveland. She is the niece of Mr. C. F. Hild, fromSchenectady, N. Y. 

Having previously informed her of my intention to visit her native city, Iwas already expected, and very cordially received at her hospitable home. 

After I had spent some very pleasant hours there, my friend accompanied meon my return to the dock. _En route_ she made me acquainted with manypoints of interest, which are so numerous in the "Forest City. " Thus, shecalled my attention to the charming Euclid Avenue, a street several mileslong, considered to be one of the most extensive and picturesque withinthe limits of the United States. Here Cleveland's aristocracy built theirsubstantial mansions and luxurious villas, encircled by tasty, park-likegardens. Of special interest to the visitor is the monument erected inmemory of James Abram Garfield, the twentieth president of the Republic, born in Orange, Ohio, in 1831. Being in office but a short time, he wasshot by a disappointed office-seeker, Charles J. Guiteau, in 1881. Thissad event, which forms a thrilling incidence in the history of the Union, is comparable with the recent death of Carter Harrison, mayor of Chicago, whose assassination by Prendergast, under similar circumstances, onSaturday, 8. 30 P. M. , October 28, 1893, created a profound sensation andgreat excitement. 

Monumental Park, near the center of the city, contains ten acres, dividedinto four squares by the extension of Ontario and Superior Streets. Besides a fountain, and other attractive objects, the park is adorned by astatue of Commodore Perry, erected in 1860 in commemoration of his victoryon Lake Erie in 1813. It is of Italian marble, eight feet high, and standsupon a granite pedestal twelve feet in altitude. The most noteworthybuildings are the postoffice, the city hall, the county court house, andthe Cleveland medical college. The Union Railway depot, an immensestructure of stone near the lake shore, is one of the largest of the kindin the United States. 

Cleveland was founded in 1796, and named in honor of General MosesCleveland of Connecticut, who then had charge of the surveying of thisregion. It was an important point in the war of 1812, incorporated as avillage in 1814, and as a city in 1836. The number of its inhabitants isestimated to be more than 200, 000. The "Forest City" has an extensivetrade in copper and iron ore, shipped from the Lake Superior miningregions, as well as in coal, petroleum, wool, and lumber, received byrailroad, canal, and lake transportation. A sojourn of at least one weekis requisite in order to acquaint one's self with all the attractions ofCleveland, with its unrivaled position and manifold beauties of scenery. 

In fact, our honorable President can be proud to share his name with thisdelightful place; and, in return, the "Forest City" may consider it anhonor to be the namesake of Grover Cleveland, the present leader of thepowerful Republic. 

On Friday morning, as soon as the dawning day dispatched its first raysover Cleveland, we resumed our voyage on Lake Erie. The flakes of lightwere falling every moment faster and broader among the spires and towersof the city of which we gradually lost sight. They were only discernibleas long, gray shadows on the elevated lake shore. The mists were couchedin quiet masses, iridescent with the morning light, upon the breasts ofthe remote hills, over whose leagues of massy undulations, they meltedinto the robe of material light, fading, lost in the increasing lustre, again to reappear in the higher heavens, while their bases vanished intothe unsubstantial and mocking blue of the lake below. The dispersingwreaths of white clouds gradually gave place to the pale azure of thehorizon. The level of the beautiful inland-sea was bathed in the glorioussunlight and the whole heaven--one scarlet canopy--colored the limpidwaters with an exquisite, roseate tint; thus giving a redoubled splendorto this fine panorama. 

While the midday sun was sending forth his warm rays, we came abreast ofMarblehead, and speeding along we reached Green Island at 1 o'clock. 

Having passed Barr Point Lighthouse we chose our halting place on theCanadian shore near _Amherstburg_, a small village pleasantly situated onthe Detroit River. 

As the yacht was fastened to the dock, the heavens were yet illumined bythe parting day; which gave us opportunity to admire the superb spectacleon the opposite shore. Its southwestern extremity was adorned withnumerous verdant islands of various size and form; some stretching formiles in length--the largest containing a circumference of fourteen miles;several so small that they seemed destined for a race of fairies; othersin clusters; and some like beautiful vestals, in single loveliness, whoseholy vows ordained them forever to live alone. 

The last streak of light had faded from the west, and a pale lustrekindling in the eastern portions of the sky, became brighter and brightertill the white falcated moon was lifted up above the horizon; whileuncountable stars appeared to reflect their brilliancy in the watersbelow. This delightful scene around us, so perfectly filled and satisfiedour sense of beauty that we reluctantly gave up our comfortable seats onthe stern-deck, notwithstanding an advanced time of night. 

On the following morning the sun rose in his clearest splendor. As soon asthat flood of luminous rays which constitutes day, was flowing on thecrystalline sea, we departed from this romantic country scene in Canada. 

Sailing along, we approached the terminus of our voyage on Lake Erie, which is considered the most dangerous of all the Great Lakes as tonavigation, owing to its comparative shallowness--its mean depth, beingabout ninety feet--and the consequent liability to a heavy ground swell. The peculiar features of this body of water are its inferior depth and theclayey nature of its shores, which are generally low; on the south, however, bordered by an elevated plateau, through which the rivers havecut deep channels. 

Though the lake possesses but a small number of good harbors, the amountof traffic on its waters, and on the connecting railways is enormous. 

This inland-sea, presenting us only sights of utmost quietude and peace, has been the scene of a naval engagement between the British andAmericans, September 10, 1813, in which the latter were victorious. Theview we enjoyed was not in the least adequate to remind us of warfare; onthe contrary

 "The sun in heaven shone so gay: All things were joyful on that day. "

It was yet early in the morning when we neared the city of Detroit, havingalmost reached the head of _Detroit River_ which separates the UnitedStates from Canada. Being about one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide, and five and one-half fathoms deep, the river flows with a pretty swiftcurrent. 

_Detroit_ is the most important city of Michigan, opposite the Canadiantown Windsor. 

Eighteen miles north of Lake Erie, it stretches with its suburbs aboutfive miles along the river, and the central part extends for about twomiles back from the shore. Approaching the city, we were more and moredelighted with its attractive appearance. The streets, from fifty to 100feet wide, are for the most part ornamented with rows of trees. A numberof avenues, having an unusual width, diverge from the Grand Circus, aspacious park semi-circular in form, which is divided into two quadrantsby Woodward Avenue. Connected with the former is the Campus Martius, apublic place about 600 feet long and 250 feet wide. Detroit comprises manymagnificent structures. One of the chief public buildings is the cityhall, facing the Campus Martius, with fronts on four streets. It countsamong the finest edifices of the kind in the west. Built of sandstone, itis designed after the Italian style of architecture, surmounted by a tower180 feet high. Its cost amounted to $600, 000. Other prominent structuresare the opera house, the office of the Board of Trade, the custom house, and the Roman Catholic cathedral. 

The commercial facilities of the city are very extensive. The DetroitRiver is a connecting link in the great chain of lake navigation, andaffords the best harbor on the inland-seas. Detroit is not only the centerof a great railroad system; more than 350 vessels are owned here, andnumerous daily lines of steamers run to various points of the lakes. Itsmanufacturing industries are very important and consist of iron, flour, tobacco, cigars, lumber, and bricks. The extensive Pullman Car Works aresituated here; also one of the seven pin factories in the United States. 

Settled by the French, early in the eighteenth century, Detroit passedinto the hands of the English in 1763. It was then besieged for elevenmonths by the Indian chief Pontiac; ceded to the Americans in 1783, butnot occupied by them till 1796. As a city, it was incorporated in 1824;and its present population is estimated to be 235, 000. It was the capitalof Michigan from 1837 till 1847, when that honor was transferred toLansing. 

Having traversed Detroit River, we entered _Lake St. Clair_, a sheet ofwater eighteen miles long and twenty-two miles wide. This small lake hasmany extensive sand-banks covered with a depth of water varying from sixto ten feet. Previous to 1858, much inconvenience was experienced innavigating it, owing to the insufficient depth, but the governments of theUnited States and Canada have dredged a canal through the bed of the lake, comprising a width of 300 feet. Since then, this channel has been deepenedso as to enable vessels drawing fifteen feet to pass with safety from laketo lake in stormy weather. 

After the expiration of a few hours we reached _River St. Clair_, whoseluxuriant border exhibited a magnificent panorama. 

Afar off westward, the uplands wore a tinge of tenderest blue; and in thenearer distance, on the low shores of the river, superb summer residences, tasty villas, and elegant hotels, built in every style of architecture, lay interspersed between romantic hills and tufted groves. The horizon wasof a fine, golden tint, changing gradually into the deep blue of themid-heaven. 

None of us ventured to leave the deck fearing to miss some of thoseunrivaled sights constantly offering new attractions. 

This trip on River St. Clair--though having an extent of thirty-threemiles--seemed but short to us; and the fine spectacle displayed on thecharming western bank may be reckoned among the most delightful scenes webeheld on our long, enjoyable voyage. 

As we approached the terminus of the river, a sudden rush of the awakenedwind was heard; and out of the blue horizon a troop of narrow, dark, andpointed clouds were advancing, covering the sky, inch by inch, with theirgray masses gradually blotting the light out of the landscape. Horizontalbars of black shadow were forming under them, and lurid wreaths wrappedthemselves about the crests of the hills. The wind had grown more violentas _Port Huron_ came in view. Waving curtains of opaque rain, swingingfrom the overburdened clouds, dropped down upon the surface of the river. The black swaying fringes, sweeping irresistibly along the water, churnedthe surface into foam. 

The sudden and unfavorable change of the weather determined our commodoreto abide at _Port Huron_, a prosperous city in Michigan. It commands avery advantageous situation, located on the west bank of River St. Clair, and at the southern extremity of Lake Huron. 

Being the county seat of St. Clair County, it is also a point of greatimportance in the railway system, and the terminus of several lines oflake steamers. 

The city, with a population of nearly 14, 000, has a large lumber trade, ship-yards, dry-docks, saw and flour mills. 

Founded in 1819, Port Huron was incorporated as a village in 1835, and asa city in 1857. 

Since the yacht lingered here until Monday, August 7th, we were enabled tobecome familiar with its broad streets, regularly laid out and wellshaded; some adorned by beautiful private residences. The heavy, blackclouds that had shrouded the whole sky ever since we made our entry inPort Huron, were yet concealing the golden disk of the summer sun. Theatmosphere, however, which had previously a disagreeable, wet chillinessin it, gradually grew clearer and warmer so that we left the dock with theintention to undertake our voyage on Lake Huron, but when nearing theplace where this sheet of water, covering an area of 23, 000 square miles, communicates with River St. Clair, we discovered that the swell on thelake level was yet quite considerable, whereas the wind which had blown agale all the preceding day, was gradually dying away. 

Still, we found it advisable to wait until the foaming waves of theenraged element had been appeased. In consequence of this decision weconcluded to moor the yacht as near the entrance of Lake Huron, as weconveniently could, ready for an early departure; for which we consideredthe town of _Sarnia_, opposite Port Huron, the most favorable locality. 

Romantically situated on the Canadian shore, Sarnia affords a splendidnorth and west view. Its handsome streets and neat structures are quiteattractive to the stranger; and not these alone but also the residents whoare generous and hospitable. We observed this fact, even during our shortstay, when receiving the visit of Mr. Clark and his amiable lady, whopresented us with a bouquet of fragrant flowers, a kind gift that wehighly appreciated. 

Long ere the east became purple with the morning light and the pinnaclesof Sarnia were bathed, one by one, in the glory of its burning, wedeparted from the pleasant city, and the white sea-bird "Marguerite"spread her light wings over the surface of Lake Huron, whosewaves--although the wind was quite fresh--did not run as high as Ianticipated; for I had been informed that on the previous day the tidefrom the lake into Detroit River amounted to eight miles an hour. 

As I was pacing up and down the deck, I viewed an inland-sea 270 mileslong, and 105 miles broad, with a picturesque coast line on our left. Thepurity of its waters was discernible by its limpid appearance and savorytaste. The fine deposits of sand and clay extending at different placesalong the shore to a distance of twenty miles inland, by their contrastsadded to the scenic beauty, exhibiting a variety of magnificent views. 

The luxuriant coast bordering on the southern extremity of the lake andskirting the peninsula of Michigan and southwestern Ontario--thoughcomparatively flat--is not void of charming features; being lined withnumerous pretty villages imbosomed among gentle slopes that were coveredwith the richest verdure. These hamlets, situated in the quiet valleys andshaded glens, alternated with extensive fields and orchards exuberant withfertility. 

Speeding along on the wavy surface of the lake, we gained sight of thebreakwater of _Sand Beach_ when the noon-tide of the day had not yetarrived. 

We first visited the village of Sand Beach, and returned at nightfall tothe breakwater, which is five miles distant from the former; here theyacht was cabled to the dock. Near our halting place there stood a loftytower, whose illuminating apparatus threw a radiant, vari-colored light onthe dark surface of Lake Huron. 

Upon expressing a desire to visit the Light Tower, Mr. James, who neverleft any of our wishes unfulfilled, immediately made arrangements with thekeeper; and, accordingly, we were invited to intrust ourselves to hisguidance. 

He informed us that the structure rested on a foundation consisting of aconcrete mass, nine feet below the water line. Having ascended fourflights of iron-wrought winding stairs, we reached the top of the circularstructure; it having a diameter of twenty-four feet at its base, andrising to an elevation of fifty-seven feet. 

With great interest we inspected the revolving lights, exhibiting aningenious piece of machinery, the invention of Finisterre and Barren inParis, and representing a value of $1, 800. This apparatus for rotatinglamps is far superior to that for a fixed light. 

The characteristic of the latter is to constantly illuminate the wholehorizon, requiring all the rays to fall simultaneously on the navigabletrack, whereas the demands made of a revolving light, are not nearly sogreat; only each point of the horizon being lighted at successive periods. 

When the dark intervals occur, the rays from the flame which are thenpointing toward the obscure spaces, have their direction so alteredlaterally as to pass into the adjoining bright places; and so increase thepower of the luminous flashes. A revolving light, though supplied by aflame of the same strength as a fixed, will thus necessarily be raised toa higher degree; for it does not lose its power by diffusing the raysconstantly over the whole horizon, but gathers them up into a number ofseparate beams of greater intensity. 

The lights made to revolve by means of clockwork, were fed with mineraloil, a refined kerosine; and the refraction was caused by highly polishedmetallic reflectors. 

This visit to the Sand Beach Beacon was quite instructive; since we viewedthere a practical application of an important principle in optics, basedon the reflection of light. 

On Wednesday morning, the first beams of the new-born day had justappeared, when the yacht continued her voyage on Lake Huron. After acourse of nearly twenty-two miles, we approached _Saginaw Bay_--thelargest indentation on the western lake shore--comprising a width ofthirty miles and a length of sixty miles. 

The passage across this bay, feared by many experienced navigators onaccount of the heavy ground swell, did not give us any cause for anxietyat first. Gradually, however, the sea became quite rough, and the enragedwaves dashed their spray pearls even upon the deck of our sailing home. 

 "The soft, wild waves, that rush and leap, Sing one song from the hoary deep: The south wind knows its own refrain, As it speeds the cloud o'er heaven's blue main. "

The strong breeze springing up in the forenoon, increased at midday. Aline of low waves, first creeping sinuously into the bay, and tossingtheir snowy crests like troops of wild steeds, rolled higher and higherwith the noise of many waters; and to escape the wrath of the angry sea, we stopped at the harbor of _Tawas City_, located near the northernextremity of Saginaw Bay. It is a thriving country town, with about 1, 000inhabitants, largely engaged in lumber trade. 

The wind continued to lash the fierce billows during the day untilevening; so we decided to remain in Tawas City until the dawn of the nextmorning. 

Guided by the pale light of another aurora, we resumed our voyage, findingthe surface of Lake Huron still in uproar. 

During this forenoon, we had occasion to witness a prospect quite novel tous. Glancing to our left, on Michigan's sylvan shore, we saw the bickeringflames of a ravaging forest fire; dyeing all the surrounding air andlandscape crimson, while dense clouds of smoke hung over the burning landlike a pall upon which the sun-rays were reflected with weird effect. Itwas, indeed, an unusual sight, exhibiting strange beauty and splendor. 

In a short time we experienced the disagreeable consequences of thisconflagration in the woodlands, caused by the extreme dryness prevailingin these regions for several weeks. For, as we reached _Alpena_ inMichigan, at about noonday, we found the atmosphere completely saturatedwith smoke, and intermixed with particles of burnt material. 

The reader can easily imagine that this impure air had a very unpleasanteffect upon our eyes, irritating them so as to materially interfere withour comfort. This was the reason why we did not duly appreciate theattractions of Alpena, a town with about 12, 500 inhabitants, regularlylaid out with nice, broad streets, containing many handsome buildings andlarge stores. 

We had an ardent desire to bid farewell to the city as quick as possible;wherefore our captain received the order from Mr. James to guide the yachtforward on her course, even before the dawning of the next day, if such anearly departure could be effected with safety. 

In compliance with these commands, we were on our way long ere the blushof day tinged the eastern sky. At first, disregarding the smoke and mistwhich became denser every minute, our navigator was soon aware that

 "So thick a haze o'erspreads the sky, He cannot see the sun on high: On deck the captain takes his stand, So dull it is, he sees no land. 'Dear me, ' he says, 'I know no more How far away we are from shore. '"

The fact is--that on account of the dense pall of smoke and mist, overshadowing everything--our pilot lost his reckoning, and only kept theyacht slowly moving through the water until we could find our way, whensuddenly--we ran aground upon a rocky ledge, causing us all greatconsternation. 

 "No stir in the air, no stir in the sea, The ship was as still as she might be. Her shaft and screw received no shock. Her keel was steady on a rock. "

Having lost all presence of mind, our pilot, without any meditation, abandoned the yacht in one of the small boats, for the purpose ofobtaining assistance from the unknown shore. Before we were conscious ofhis proceedings, he had disappeared through fume and haze. Almostinstantaneously we detected that the mariner's compass had vanished withhim. 

Thus, we were destitute of the most important instrument for navigation. Wishing to give our deserter opportunity to find his way back to us, wecaused the whistle to resound at short intervals. 

This interesting adventure was, of course, thoroughly discussed. We wereall convinced that the unforeseen event might turn into a perilous one, should a wind arise to roughen the surface of the water. 

Our conversation was interrupted by an involuntary cry of pleasure whichburst from the lips of Miss Campbell, whose keen eyes had revealed to herquite an uncommon spectacle in the hazy distance. Following her direction, we spied, through the fluctuating light of the foggy morning, the outlinesof a steadfast boat speeding along on the calm sea. Eight oars, managedwith the accuracy of clockwork by eight strong and skillful hands, werehurrying toward our rock-bound craft. 

As the shape and dimensions of the capable boat became discernible, it wasevident she belonged to the United States Life-Saving Service, coming toour rescue. This conjecture was correct, for the robust crew soon layalongside of us; which was a matter of intense relief to the whole party. 

With their assistance, the yacht was soon afloat again; and, guided by theThunder Bay crew, we sailed to a favorable place of anchorage betweenSugar and Gull Islands. Here the yacht remained to await our fugitivepilot, who was restored to us by the kind services of the life-savingcrew, a few hours afterwards. 

We were informed that we had been aground two miles from the shore, in thevicinity of Thunder Bay Lights on _Gull Island Ledge_. 

During a heavy shower in the afternoon, we received a visit from severalvery pleasant ladies, relatives to the captain of the Thunder Baylife-saving service. 

When expressing our regret that their excursion was not favored bypleasanter weather, they assured us they were only too glad to view thetremulous skeins of rain refresh the languishing earth. In fact, thisrainfall was a duplicated blessing, as it not only cleared the atmospherefrom its smoky shroud but helped to check the ravages of the extensiveforest conflagration, then threatening the city of Alpena withdestruction. 

An awakened breeze, which had freshened since the violent shower, causedour floating home to roll considerably. 

Not desirous of being rudely tossed by the wanton billows, we weighedanchor and returned to Alpena, the only safe harbor within reach beforesunset. 

Early the next day we continued our voyage on Lake Huron, entering itsnorthern portion, which differs greatly from the nature of its southernshore. 

The northern and northeastern coasts are mostly composed of sand- andlimestones. Where metamorphic rocks are found, the surface is broken andhilly, rising to elevations of 600 feet or more above the lake; in thisrespect unlike the southern shore, which is low and flat. Of the manyislands--whose number amounts to about 3, 000--we could admire the beautiesof but few; for most of them dot the Canadian coast line. 

As the wind increased rapidly, it was deemed advisable to take harbor at_False Presqu'ile_, where we arrived at 9 A. M. Although this small body ofland appeared very insignificant, inhabited by only twelve families, wedecided to remain there, until wind and waves would prove more favorable. 

We had no motive to regret that resolution; for we experienced that thissolitary tract not only afforded us enchanting views of lovely scenery; itwas also the abode of noble-hearted mortals. Immediately after our arrivala very amiable gentleman, introducing himself as Mr. W. A. French, awealthy lumber merchant of this place, visited us on board; giving us acordial welcome. Not satisfied with a kind reception, he and his prettywife presented us with all sorts of provisions, indigenous to thislocality; thus evincing the abundant supply of delicacies at theirdisposal, notwithstanding their residing in such solitude. 

The time passed with marvelous rapidity in the pleasant company of our newfriends. When the gloom of the growing twilight reminded us of the fadingday, we could hardly realize this fact. We wished to stay there anotherday; but when the following morning rose fair and beautiful in the clearheavens, the wind had changed to the southeast, which was disadvantageousfor our mooring place; and it might have been dangerous for us to remainin that harbor, should the breeze become violent. 

Leaving False Presqu'ile, we pursued our voyage under the most favorableauspices. 

After a course of several hours, we reached _Cheboygan_, a town situatedon the northern shore of the Michigan Peninsula, thirteen miles from theStraits of Mackinaw. Lumber trade is carried on especially in this place, which contains about 7, 500 inhabitants. 

Resuming our trip the next forenoon, a short course brought us to theterminus of our voyage on Lake Huron; when reaching the _Straits ofMackinaw_, whose blue green waves divide the State of Michigan. 

Extending nearly nine miles in circumference, and rising at its highestpoint over 300 feet above the waves, we beheld the famous _MackinawIsland_, which has filled an important place in the history ofexploration. Here was the meeting place of the daring French _voyageurs_and _aventuriers_, before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. Many wildand thrilling incidents in the lives of Marquette, Hennepin, and La Salleoccurred on this island; and over at Point St. Ignace, in plain view, Marquette was escorted to his burial place by a hundred canoes of plumedand painted Ottawa and Huron warriors in 1677. 

Just across, on the most northern point of the Lower Peninsula, stood oldFort Mackinaw, the scene of the terrible massacre of the whites by theIndians under Pontiac in 1763. 

On this island were fought two battles in the war of 1812. It was herethat Schoolcraft wrote his celebrated History of the North AmericanIndians, and the Legend of Hiawatha, which Longfellow, visiting him here, afterward expanded into a poem. 

The island's varied scenery, and its history and traditions, have beenportrayed in vivid word pictures by Marion Harland in a book, bearing thetitle "With the Best Intentions, " by which she has recently added to herwide fame. 

Having crossed the strait at its narrowest part four miles in width, wecaught sight of the beautiful waters of _Lake Michigan_, the only one inthe group of the North American great lakes which extends entirely withinthe territory of the United States, having a maximum breadth of eightyfour miles, and a depth varying from 700 to 1, 000 feet. Its length amountsto 345 miles from the northwestern corner of Indiana and the northern partof Illinois to the Straits of Mackinaw. 

We followed the same route which more than two centuries ago was taken byJacques Marquette who, in the spring of 1673, with Joliet for hischieftain, and five other Frenchmen, embarked at Mackinaw in two frailbark canoes. 

The disposition to pause for an instant, and to reflect upon the characterand circumstance of our luxurious voyage as contrasted with that of thesefew adventurers in their fragile birch canoes--a little over 220 yearsago--is almost irresistible. 

On that occasion it was a journey of extreme peril--with no friendlypopulous havens at which the necessary commodities could be obtained. Those densely wooded shores afforded no hospitable refuge to these hardymen, and their destination or return was a question of great uncertainty. 

We pushed along with the marvelous propeller and, surrounded with everycomfort, had the assurance of each evening anchoring in some safeharbor--encountering cheerful voices, and seeing glad faces--with thepossibility of daily finding everything we wanted, in profusion. Therewas the postoffice, with its rapid service at our disposal, or theelectric telegraph, by means of which we could communicate with everypart of civilization, ever within our reach--and the climax of moderngenius in the magnificent structures of the Columbian Exposition awaitingus--the marvel of the nineteenth century, with its unparalleledaggregation. The thought is overwhelming! And could these explorers haveseen in a dream--what we witnessed in reality--it would have seemed tothem an impossibility that so short a time could have brought about suchgreat events. 

The eastern lake shore was richly garlanded with forests displaying a vastmultitude of verdant hues, varying through all the shades of green. Overthe whole the azure of the sky cast a deep, misty blue; blending towardthe rocks of lime- and sandstone, seemingly embracing every possible tintand shade of color. 

Having achieved a course of sixty miles, the yacht cast anchor in theexcellent harbor of St. James on _Beaver Island_, a large tract of landcovering an area of 3, 700 acres. Vessels of various kinds and shapes laymoored in this spacious inlet. Being wind-bound, we tarried for two days, which gave us opportunity to become acquainted with the features of theisland. We were informed that it is identified with the history ofMormonism; since it was first settled by adherents of that sect, whorobbed the ships entering this port, and who led the lives of pirates. After their leader was killed in one of the numerous combats which ensuedwith the attacked sailors, they abandoned the place; but the habitation ofthe Mormon chief is still existing, probably the only vestige left here ofthe followers of Joseph Smith. 

At 1 o'clock A. M. , on Wednesday, August 16th, we departed from BeaverIsland. The pilot had guided the "Marguerite" on a course of aboutforty-five miles southward, when we approached _Northport_, Michigan, aplace noteworthy for having not a single of those maleficient institutions, commonly styled beer-saloons. 

We lingered two hours at the dock of this town. The white fields ofblinding mist floated along the winding valleys of the low lake shore; andfrom the dark clouds curtaining the sun, the rain fell continuously. Thusthe landscape on our left bore a gray and dim tincture. 

Before the darkness of evening had gathered about us, the yacht was madefast to the dock of _Frankfort_, on the Michigan coast, a small place witha population of about 1, 000, romantically situated. Taking our departurefrom the town on the following morning, we observed that the fog, coveringthe surrounding landscape with a thick, impenetrable veil, increased indensity until it seemed as if from moment to moment additional tints ofsombre gray were united to the haze. In fact, after a while we were unableto discern the outline of the coast, having to pursue our way with greatcaution. 

After the lapse of four anxious hours, we had the great satisfaction tohear the welcome sound of the fog-horn of _Manistee_, the county seat ofManistee County, in Michigan. It is situated at the mouth of thesame-named river, which is navigable for vessels, drawing ten to twelvefeet of water, for the distance of one and one-half miles to ManisteeLake. Largely engaged in lumber trade, the city has a score of saw-millsand about as many shingle-mills, the latter of which produce annually450, 000, 000 shingles, the largest number made at any one place in theworld. In consequence of the discovery in 1881 of a bed of solid salt, thirty feet thick, extensive salt factories are being built. Thepopulation of the city has rapidly increased in later years, comprisingabout 14, 000 residents at present. The surrounding district is especiallyadapted for fruit-growing; and sportsmen are attracted to the ManisteeRiver and its tributaries by the abundance of the otherwise rarely foundgrayling. 

Since we expected company on board the "Marguerite" in the evening--Mr. Wilkinson, a citizen of Milwaukee, who intended to make us acquainted withhis wife, we went on shore immediately after dinner to view the city, soas to return in time to meet our visitors. 

Manistee made the impression of a flourishing business town. Thecomparatively long trading thoroughfare is a broad street nicely laid out, and adorned with numerous stately buildings and spacious stores. 

Not long after our departure from Manistee, which occurred early on thefollowing morning, a sudden squall threatened us; and a few minutes later, a terrific flash and peal broke almost simultaneously upon us, followed bya violent shower. Fortunately, it lasted but a short time. The tempestgradually ceased; the irregular and blinding flashes became fewer and thethunder rolled less loudly. Gradually the scene changed to one of peacefulbeauty so that the rose light of the radiant sun-ball appeared in theheavens; casting a new glory on the picturesque scenery of water andshore. 

The surface of the lake had become calm; and speeding along, we enjoyedthe lovely weather which was not destined to continue. For, toward middaya fresh breeze rippled the waters that by degrees were transformed intotowering waves, shaking their foamy crests, and tossing us angrily fromside to side; and we were not sorry when we reached the harbor of_Muskegon_, about six miles from Muskegon City, situated on the same-namedriver which here, four miles from its mouth, widens into Muskegon Lake. Itis the best harbor on the east side of the great lake. The city has dailysteamboat navigation with Chicago; and saws and ships enormous quantitiesof lumber. Its principal manufactories are a number of foundries, machineshops, and boiler works. The present population is estimated to compriseabout 24, 000. 

While admiring the lovely scenery enhanced by an enchanting sunset, fromthe deck of the yacht, our attention was distracted by approachingfootsteps. In the uncertain, fading daylight, we perceived a gentlemanaccompanied by a lady--curiously regarding us--whom we invited on boardthe "Marguerite. "

Mrs. And Mr. Wickham were the names by which this fair couple wasintroduced. That they spent the evening in our company, was veryacceptable to us--as we but rarely had visitors on our pilgrimage. Theygreatly admired our floating home, and as the moon arose to bathe us withhis silvery light, they took their departure. 

The young archer--morn--broke his arrows on the remote hills, walkinggolden-sandaled down the lake, when we continued our voyage. 

The still waters were soon lashed into fury again by an unfavorable wind, increasing toward midday to such a degree that we were glad to take refugein the harbor of _South Haven_, where we lingered until the dawn ofanother day. 

Opposite the mooring-place of the "Marguerite" stood an edifice whoseinterior we all longed to view. Having so unexpectedly become acquaintedwith the Life-Saving Service on the occasion of our adventure near ThunderBay, we were anxious to learn more about that noble institution. In theafternoon we set out for the South Haven Life-Saving Station whosecaptain, an obliging gentleman, gave us very satisfactory explanations. Hefirst called our attention to the splendid qualities of the life-boat:such as its power to right itself if upset; the capability of immediateself-discharge when filled with water; its strength; resistance tooverturning; speed against a heavy sea; buoyancy; and facility inlaunching and taking the shore. 

We then inspected the diverse apparatuses utilized for rescuing theshipwrecked. 

A very clever contrivance, especially appropriate for saving invalids, children, and aged persons is the metallic car, a small covered boat, which can hold three or four persons who, entering by a comparativelysmall aperture, are shut in and drawn ashore, safely protected from injuryeven though overturned by the surf. 

For projecting a line over a stranded vessel a howitzer is used; and inthis way a communication is secured to the shore. The cork life-belts wornby the men, are of the plan first designed by Admiral Ward. 

It is safe to say that the United States Life-Saving Service is chiefamong the life-boat societies of other nations, both as regards the extentof coast embraced, and the amount of work done. The whole support of thisservice is provided for by annual grants from Congress. Besides its vastcoast line, it guards the shores of its great lakes. Since thesea-bordering portions of America in many places are destitute of humanhabitations, the constant employment of surfmen is required for theexpress purpose of looking out for vessels in distress and manning thesurf-boats. It also necessitates the erection of houses of refugeprovisioned so as to afford shelter and food to shipwrecked sailors for aconsiderable time at places, where without such provisions those whoescape the sea, would probably perish from hunger and exposure. 

The shores of the United States lakes and sea comprise over 10, 000 miles, embracing almost every variety of climate and formation of land. Thisgreat extent of sea-board is divided into twelve districts with in all 244stations. Of these 182 are on the Atlantic, forty-nine on the lakes, andtwelve on the Pacific. Many of the stations are closed during the finemonths of the year; their crews being disbanded till the winter galesagain summon them to their heroic and dangerous work. That they rendernoble service in this way, may be gathered from the annual reports. 

The official statement of 1893 shows that the disasters to shipping inthat year amounted to 427 cases; that on board of vessels thus endangeredthere were 3, 565 persons of whom 3, 542 were saved. 

After we had thus enriched our knowledge referring to this humaneinstitution with its present effective system, we proceeded to theneighboring shore of Lake Michigan, here forming a beautiful beach. Thepolished and print-less sand studded with small, shining pepples spreadbefore us in vast expanse; and the magnificent waters of the lakeglittered in the sun-beams as though they were sown with diamonds. Whenthe surf came in, and the white fringe of the sliding wave shot up thebeach, the light color of the sand was deepened to a silvery gray. As muchas we marred and defaced its fine-grained, bright surface, it was everbeaten down anew by the advancing and retreating waves. We had hardlydeserted this lovely spot, when our foot prints were washed away by theever returning sea. 

On Monday at an advanced hour in the evening we departed from South Haven. Since the glories of the sunset, with its witchery of rose and gold, promised a fine night, we decided to continue our voyage as far asMichigan City. 

The panorama we witnessed during that nocturnal trip was as magnificent ascan be imagined. The full-orbed moon on the wave was beautiful; and so wasthe landscape bathed in its light. 

Toward 10 o'clock we arrived at our destination, a town in La Porte Co. , Indiana. 

_Michigan City_ is the largest lumber-market in the State, and hasnumerous manufacturing establishments. As a lake-port, it is a place ofconsiderable prosperity comprising a population of about 11, 000. 

It was in the early morning, Tuesday, August 22nd, that we left MichiganCity. Having sailed along the coast of the lake for about three hours, wediscerned in the misty distance the site of the "Queen of the West. "

At twenty minutes to 9 o'clock, it became plainly cognizable. Intransports of delight we glanced at a vast, verdant tract of land adornedwith magnificent structures appearing to be of the purest marble; in theirmatchless beauty imparting to the mind some grand allegorical _tableau_, intending to convey the poet's idea of the New Jerusalem. 

It was the famous _White City_, the site of the World's ColumbianExposition, that charmed our eyes and gratified our taste so much. No onecan adequately describe that sight as seen from the clear waters of thelake. --I imagine that our illustrious Columbus must have been equallyaffected as he beheld Guanahani, that fruitful island in its wildluxuriance, on his first landing in the New World. 

CHAPTER IV. 

STAY IN CHICAGO AND VISIT TO THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Our arrival in Chicago put an end to our pleasurable voyage comprising theconsiderable length of 1, 243 miles, during which

 "The waves were our pillow, Our cradle the sea: When rough was the billow Not timid were we. "

This westward trip afforded us every hour a revelation of the surprisinggrowth of the nation that lives under the Stars and Stripes. My travelingcompanions were equally delighted with this course, notwithstanding theirbeing preacquainted with that portion of the west, whose rapid developmentmakes it practically a new and another west every ten years. In fact, America astonishes the world; and it is no common pleasure to study andnote the progress of this great republic of which Chicago is the secondcity in commercial importance, as well as in population. 

We were anxious to obtain an adequate conception of the site of a citythat is the synonym of push and prosperity, and to which Congress hadawarded the World's Columbian Exposition. Therefore, the yacht was mooredinside the breakwater, near the mouth of the inlet, called the ChicagoRiver, which runs from the lake nearly one mile westward; then separatesinto two branches, one flowing northwest, the other southwest; thusdividing Chicago into three divisions, connected by more than thirty-fivebridges, and two tunnels laid under the bed of the river. This streamletused to empty into Lake Michigan; but a remarkable piece of engineeringcaused it to change its course and so to speak, run "uphill. " The Illinoisand Michigan Canal, with which the main branch of the river is connected, was so deepened as to draw the water out from the lake, so that--throughthis channel emptying into the Illinois River--the water of Lake Michiganflows into the Gulf of Mexico by means of the Mississippi River. Had itbeen later in the season, we might have decided to follow this watercoursein order to view the fertile Mississippi River Valley, and to enjoy thebeauties of the sunny south. 

The largest vessels may be towed into the Chicago River, being suppliedwith docks and water-slips and affording a dockage capacity of nearlyforty miles. --Originally named Chacaqua River, (the Indian word forthunder, after the Indian Thor or Thunder God), it is supposed to havegiven the city its name. 

At midday we left our anchorage--on which the eye of heaven shone almosttoo hot--and undertook our first trip to the Fair Grounds. Seated on deck, we inhaled the invigorating, fresh breeze sweeping over the lake andmodified by the burning rays of the sun that kissed the brilliant, bluewaters beneath, with his golden face, gilding them with heavenly alchemy. 

High ran our anticipations as we were approaching the renowned White City, to which representatives of all nations have made a pilgrimage. 

At the expiration of about one-half hour, we reached the pier, destinedfor the halting-place of yachts; and welcomed by the supervisor of theharbor, we went on shore. 

The first impression was bewildering. Americans have reason to be proud ofwhat was to be viewed in Jackson Park; as such buildings no previousgenerations of men have seen, congregated in this manner; and the displayof the achievements of science, art, and industries, exhibited in them, has undoubtedly eclipsed all other expositions in the world's annals ofprogress. 

It seems impossible to give so adequate a pen-picture of the World's Fairas to impart to the reader an accurate idea of its true grandeur. Manyminds have essayed already to reproduce what they have witnessed there;many pens have attempted to record exactly the incomparable impression theexposition effected upon its visitors, but, it is safe to say, withouteven faintly describing it; for, can language convey to a blind man what"color" means, or to a deaf person the meaning of music?--No more can thepen of the most gifted author adequately portray the World's ColumbianExposition. If one would give to each building a volume; a shelf to theMidway Plaisance; and to the exhibitions a whole library in way ofdescription, yet half of its beauties and wonders would not be told. --

Leaving the "Marguerite" at the North Pier, our attention was called to aunique exhibit made by the U. S. Navy Department, a structure representinga faithful model of a modern coast-line battle-ship. This full-sizedimitation _man-of-war_ _"Illinois"_ was completely equipped erected onpiling on the lake front, and surrounded by water, so as to give theappearance of being moored to a wharf. Here the Government showed also awar baloon, a light-house, a life-saving station complete with apparatus, and a gun battery. 

Proceeding a little westward, we viewed a building, delightfully located, bearing a strong resemblance to the National Museum at Washington. Thisimposing edifice classic in style, and adorned by a central octagonal domewas the _United States Government Building_; to the southward of whichrose the largest of the Exposition structures, the _Manufactures andLiberal Arts Building_, notable for its gigantic but symmetricalproportions, covering an area of more than thirty-one acres. 

Looking in a southern direction, we caught sight of the pier extending1, 000 feet into the lake, and affording a landing-place for steamers. Itwas bounded on the east by the beautiful facade of the _Casino_, whichpresented a decidedly Venetian aspect; its nine pavilions being incommunication both by gondolas and bridges. At the west end of the pierstood thirteen stately columns emblematic of the Thirteen Original Statesof the Union. 

Rising out of the lagoon, the colossal _Statue of the Republic, _ thelargest ever built in America, predominated over this charming scene. 

Beyond it extended a broad basin from which grassy terraces and broadwalks led on the southward to one of the most magnificent edifices raisedfor the exposition, the _Agricultural Building_. In style of architectureit pertained to the classic renaissance and was erected at a cost of about$1, 000, 000. 

From the pier westward across the park, we walked through an avenue, several feet long; affording a view of almost unparalleled splendor. Encompassing a beautiful sheet of water, the majestic facades of imposingbuildings attracted our eyes; above all, a superb guilded dome shimmeringin the sun-light, and pertaining to the _Administration Building, _ whichwas pronounced the gem and crown of the Exposition structures. In generaldesign in the style of the French renaissance, it was built at an expenseof about $550, 000. 

Located at the extreme south of the park rose the stately _MachineryHall_, following classical models throughout, and being especially rich inarchitectural lines and details. Its construction required a sum of$1, 000, 000. 

Facing the Grand Avenue, our eyes rested with delight upon two immenseedifices on either side of the Administration Building, one for the_Electrical_ and the other for the _Mining Exhibit_. 

Turning to the northward, we viewed the _Transportation Building, _exquisitely refined and simple in architectural treatment, although veryrich and costly in detail. 

On our right we beheld one of the most notable spots in Jackson Park, (viz) _Wooded Island_, a gem of primitive nature, agreeably contrastingwith the grand productions of human skill surrounding it. Close by was the_Palace of Horticulture, _ the largest structure ever erected for suchpurpose, costing about $400, 000. 

Proceeding more northward, we reached the entrance to the _MidwayPlaisance_, directly east of which stood, encompassed by luxuriant shrubsand beds of fragrant flowers, like a white silhouette against thebackground of old and stately oaks, the daintily designed _Woman'sBuilding_. 

On a well paved boulevard we entered the great "Highway through theNations. " Formerly a promenade belonging to the South Park System andconnecting Jackson Park on the east and Washington Park on the west, itwas styled by the seekers of _plaisir_ "Midway Plaisance" signifying"Pleasure-Way. " This name has been retained by the Administration of theWorld's Fair, whereas the country-lane of former times had undergone acomplete metamorphosis. We were unable to realize the radical character ofthe transformation as we contemplated the enormous variety of attractionshere presented, more numerous and unlike any others ever brought together. Therefore, it is a very difficult task to give the reader an exact idea ofthe impression the Midway Plaisance effected upon its visitors, because wegenerally derive our conception of a scene from the comparison it willbear with similar spectacles. 

The "Highway through the Nations" constituted an attractive, novel, andinstructive addition to the Exposition. For, besides enlighteningourselves in regard to the styles of structures--inhabited by the diversenations on the earth, --forming a fine array of villages, castles, towers, pavilions, pagodas, mosques, and other displays of oriental and occidentalarchitecture, we viewed the natives of the various countries. There wererepresentatives of nearly all the races and tribes, constituting the humanpopulation on our planet which is estimated to amount to 1, 500, 000, 000men. We had a chance to study their features, manners, and customs; theirway of dressing, as well as their language and special occupations. Suchopportunities are only otherwise given to travelers around the globe. 

The rays of the descending sun--casting rosy reflections on the beautifulpanorama and the mammoth _Ferris Wheel_, with its gigantic formovertowering the structures of the Midway Plaisance--gave us the signalfor abandoning this charming realm. 

Thus, directing our steps toward the Exposition Grounds, we arrived at thenorthwestern portion of Jackson Park where we ascended the entrance to astation of the _Columbian Intramural Railway_, the first and only electricelevated railroad, operated by the Third Rail Trolley System. --Conveyed bythe driving power of electricity, we had a delightful ride affording afine view upon the northern part of the grounds. Scores of gracefulstructures constituting a veritable town of palaces, embodied the bestconceptions of America's greatest architectural display. 

A picturesque group of buildings erected by the States and Territories ofthe American Union, rose in a semicircle around the _Fine Arts Galleries_, a palace costing half a million. Grecian-ionic in style, this edificerepresented a pure type of the most refined classic architecture. In thewestern portion of this group--facing the North Pond--stood the _IllinoisBuilding_, adorned by a dome in the center, and a great porch lookingsouthward. 

Surrounded by lawns, walks, beds of flowers, and shrubs, the charmingstructures of Foreign Nations were ranged on wide, curved avenues--affording an interesting aspect. 

Just south of the _Foreign_ and _State Buildings_ we observed aconsiderable expanse of the lagoon, with inlet to the lake, encompassingthree islands. On the largest one stood--contrasting agreeably inappearance with the other edifices--the _U. S. Fisheries Building_, Spanish-Romanesque in style and flanked at each end by a curved arcadeconnecting it with two polygonal pavilions. 

Leaving the Intramural Train at the North Loop, we arrived at theGovernment Building; thus having completed our round-trip on the FairGrounds and Midway Plaisance. 

When we returned to our floating home, we had the satisfaction of havingobtained the best possible results of our first visit by properlyutilizing every minute. 

It will be obvious to the reader that the excursion just described, wasequivalent to a trip around the world; wherefore I am entitled to theassertion that it even surpassed Nellie Bly's remarkable feat who neededseventy-two days, six hours, and eleven minutes for accomplishing hercircumterraneous voyage. 

This success was due to the management of Mr. James, who made hisintelligence effectual, in unison with great experience, gained by havingattended the grand international expositions held in the course of severaldecades in the different sections of the globe. 

Since there did not exist accommodations for a safe anchorage for yachtsalong the piers of the White City, we were obliged to sail back to theChicago Harbor. The ride on the billows of Lake Michigan, however, wasvery enjoyable after the heat of the day. Fanned by the coolingsea-breezes, which we inhaled in the fullness of delight, our eyes restedin perfect rapture on the glorious panorama of the grounds extendingtoward the lake shore. The superb structures rising vaguely and obscurelyin a shadowy expanse under the gloom of the growing twilight, were laterbeautifully illuminated by uncountable electric lights; from the powerfularc-light of 8, 000 candles to the delicate incandescent lamp ofone-sixteenth candle power gleaming like tiny fire-flies in the distance. It filled us with amazement to cogitate, that human mind and manual skillcould create a spot on earth looking so much like a conception ofparadise. 

The next morning when corroborating our nerves by a hearty breakfast, Mr. James announced to us the programme of the day which set forth that weshould witness in detail the attractions of the Midway Plaisance--aproposal that pleased us very much. 

Having again disembarked at the pier of the Exposition Grounds, theIntramural Railway conveyed us rapidly--running with a velocity of twelvemiles an hour--to the entrance of the International Highway. 

We commenced with the attractions at the right hand side--and havingpassed the displays of the _Diamond Match Company_ and the _Workingmen'sHome_--the international Dress and Costume Exhibit, known as the _Congressof Beauty, _ attracted our attention. Between forty and fifty pretty livingrepresentatives pertaining to the fair sex of different nationalities, races, and types were dressed in distinctive national or racial costumes. 

The _California Nursery_ and _Citrus Tree Exhibit_ separated this BeautyShow from the _Electric Scenic Theater_, which may be regarded as atriumph of the modern progress in the electrical science. It depicted thechanges of a beautiful Swiss Alpine scenery as such are graduallyoccurring from dawn till night--representing the magical and mostwonderfully realistic effects ever produced by electric lamps. 

Visiting the _Libbey Glass Works_, we obtained a very clear idea of theart of manufacturing glass--by following up the different processes ofmelting, blowing, cutting, spinning, weaving etc. All of which were infull operation in this exhibit. 

In fact, the endeavor of this company to instruct the spectator in everydetail of the work--was a complete success and exceedingly satisfactory. The ingenious construction of their magnificent building was especiallyadapted to enable the daily throngs--resorting to it--to have everyopportunity for observation; and judging from what we saw, and the variouscomments we heard, we should be inclined to feel that the management hadevery reason to be satisfied with their splendid effort. 

The artistic products manufactured solely by this company, and shown inthe diverse departments--as well as those, decorating the Crystal ArtDisplay Rooms--equal anything in the past and present, not excepting thecelebrated Bohemian and Venetian manufactures of world-wide fame; andcertainly the exhibition of cut glass made by the Libbey Company at thisExposition, has established the fact, that foreign manufactures can nolonger claim to turn out the best artistic work; for truly, in that richand unrivaled display, the summit of clear glass making and magicaleffects in cutting and polishing have been achieved. 

Especially attractive were the tapestries and fabrics woven from spunglass. This was decidedly notable in the marvelous dress woven from oneloom for the Spanish Princess Eulalia at a cost of $2, 500. That thesegoods also serve as a canvas does for artistic work--was evidently provedby the sundry beautiful effects of this kind in the Crystal Art Room. --Itwould be impossible to enumerate the various articles produced in thiswonderful and interesting display; but it is safe to say--the workingexhibit of the Libbey Glass Company--in their palatial and costlystructure was one of the chief features of the Midway Plaisance and theever memorable Columbian Exposition. 

A gateway--reminding us of mediaeval times--ushered the visitor into the_Irish Village_ and _Donegal Castle_, a representative exhibit of Irishindustry, art, and antiquity. The scenes there--were picturesque anduniquely Hibernian. In one of the cottages Irish lace-making could benoted; in another was shown by Hibernians the whole process of dyeing, carding, spinning and weaving home-spuns as well as various other branchesof industrial developments in Ireland. 

A few steps sufficed to transfer us from here--a representation of theextreme western portion of Europe to the most eastern country on theEastern Hemisphere--Japan; which fact demonstrated the verity: _Lesextręmes se touchent_. Entering the Japanese bazaar, we observed Japaneseladies and gentlemen selling articles manufactured in--and imported fromNipon. 

A highly interesting study of the natives of West Java (Dutch EastIndies)--their occupations--and their bamboo huts--could be had in the_Javanese Village_ exhibiting more than a hundred little men with brightand cheerful Malay faces, and thirty-six short women whose gracefulmovements were a source of attraction to thousands of visitors. 

This scene of the tropical regions stood in striking contrast with afeature in immediate nearness--pertaining to a temperate clime--the_German Village_. Here, in the spacious concert-garden shaded by the densefoliage of numerous oak-trees, two German military bands, one of theinfantry and one of the cavalry--seventy-four men in all--gave grand _echtdeutsche Militaerconcerte_. The group of typical German peasant homes, theBlack Forest House, the Westphalian Inn, the Upper Bavarian Home, and theSpreewald House, together with the Hessian Rural Town-hall, and the Castlewere exact reproductions of mediaeval times. A portion of this strongholdfrom a remote date, was given up to the ethnographic museum; a collectionchiefly of implements of war and of chase, illustrative of all periodsbeginning with the pre-historic and ending with the renaissance. Anattractive group in wax constituted the figure of Germania, surrounded byGerman heroes from Arminius down to William I. 

The _Pompeii Panorama_--near by--showed a very realistic representation ofthis city destroyed by the eruption of the Vesuvius in 79. This displaywas succeeded by the _Persian Theater_ and the _Model of the EiffelTower_. 

We left the crowded roadway, and entered the narrow _Street in Cairo_which made an imposing impression with its strange, oriental facades--thepicturesque shops--and the quaint overhanging upper stories of the ancientEgyptian city. Natives of this African country--which is fertilized by thewaters of the Nile--manufactured and had for sale Egyptian, Arabian, andSoudanese articles. Donkeys and camels were engaged in carrying visitorswho chose to admire the busy thoroughfare seated on the backs of theseanimals. The native camel-drivers in their national costumes moved aroundand mingled with the strangers--which gave the populated street a peculiarcharm to the eye, whereas the "Bum-Bum Candy" sold by Egyptianconfectioners, afforded a strange sensation to the palate of the visitor. 

Here, where the architecture, the surroundings, and the people were as farremoved from anything American as could well be imagined, we really--forsome minutes--were lost to all consciousness of being in that extremelymodern city, called Chicago. 

After having viewed the side attractions to which belonged the Egyptiantemple--resembling the temple of Luxor--the tombs of the ancient kings, and fac-similes of mummies, we entered the _Algerian and TunisianVillage_. Besides a theater, it contained a great number of booths orbazaars in which a choice selection of goods of all kinds--peculiar toAlgiers--was for sale. 

Proceeding southward through the frequented avenue, we saw--insuccession--the _Kilauea Panorama_, a vivid picture of the great volcanoof _Hawaii_, with all the surrounding scenery--an _American IndianVillage_, showing the remnants of some of the greatest North AmericanIndian tribes, and their manner of living--and a _Chinese Village_including a theater, a joss house, and a bazaar. 

The most southwestern portion of the Midway Plaisance was occupied by the"Wild East Show" where performances were given by Bedouin Arabs. Withtheir short Turkish swords--the cimeters--they accomplished feats of suchintrepidity and daring as to cause the spectators' blood to coagulate intheir veins. 

Bending our steps westward again, our attention was fixed upon theattractions on the north; _id est_ on our right hand side. 

Very striking to our eyes were two exhibits the comparison of whichestablished the fact that they were as unlike each other as could befancied. Not only that the two villages contrasted greatly by theirexternal appearance; but the scenes and inhabitants that they encompassed, were in direct opposition. Reader, can you realize that here from theNorth Pole to the Equator there was but one step? _Laplanders_, from theArctic region in Europe, the next-door neighbors of barbarians from theTorrid Zone in Africa? Although both low in the scale of humanity, thefierce and savage _Natives of Dahomey_ with their repulsive habitsexhibited the characteristics of the very undermost order of mankind. 

But the mind was at once relieved from this sad picture of humandebasement by the refined and attractive scenes in the _Austrian Village_, inclosing realistic reproductions of thirty-six buildings as they existed, more than a century ago, in old Vienna, deservedly eulogized in the song:

 Es gibt nur a Kaiserstadt Es gibt nur a Wien; Da muss es praechtig sein, Da moecht' ich hin!

Having arrived at the center of the spacious promenade, we ascended one ofthe six northern platforms, communicating by turns with thirty-six aerialcoaches, suspended by an iron axle to the periphery of the mammoth _FerrisWheel_. A conductor invited us to step into a coach, as the appropriatemoment had arrived, whereupon we entered a car having the seating capacityof forty persons, and almost the size of an ordinary Pullman Palace Car. Ere we were conscious of any movement, the monster wheel was slowlyrevolving in response to the powerful machinery by which it wasoperated--a trophy of the modern era of eminent progress. The total weightof the moving mass was 1, 200 tons; and its construction involved theexpenditure of $400, 000. Reader, if you have not experienced the charm ofthis circular ride through a circumference of about 785 feet, you hardlycan convey to your mind the conception of the fascination it afforded. Since the motion of the coaches was almost imperceptible, we could enjoythe trip--(viz)--two complete revolutions of the wheel--without the leastexcitement naturally aroused by rapid movement. Imagine the sensation ofbeing carried up 250 feet on one side--and of being slowly lowered on theother; fancy the enjoyment and delight when gradually gaining a completeview of the Fair Grounds and the Midway Plaisance--a bird's eye-view ofthe whole of Chicago--and also a good portion of Lake Michigan. Dearreader, you will certainly acknowledge the fact that such a ride surpassedany similar brief journey ever taken. For, what other device fortransportation can maintain the claim of enabling its passengers to lookupon the whole world during twenty-five minutes!--

 "When you get used to the motion Only delight you will feel: Gone is each terrified notion Once in the circle of steel. And you enjoy the commotion Clap and applaud with much zeal: For it surpasses old ocean To ride in the great 'Ferris Wheel. '"

The sun--being almost too liberal in the expenditure of heat--made us longfor a refreshing breeze. Therefore we decided to ride in the_Ice-Railway. _ Here we had opportunity to feel the excitement caused byvelocity of motion. For a seventy mile-an-hour locomotive would have beenmonotonous and tiresome in comparison with a dash around the ice-railwaytrack, containing 850 feet, and covering an elliptic space whose surfacehad a coat of ice nearly an inch thick. Over this smooth and glisteningsubstance the bobsleigh was gliding with the speed of a toboggan and theease of a coaster to the merry jingle of sleigh bells. 

This exhibit--whose cost amounted to $100, 000--gave an example ofinventive genius, and also of the successful application--in a novelmanner--of the principles of refrigeration. 

The beautiful building next to the Ice Railway environed an excellentimitation _en miniature_ of the magnificent _Cathedral of St. Peter_ inRome, its size being one-sixteenth of the original. When viewing thismodel, the elaborate papal throne, and the Vatican Guards in the exactuniform of the pope's attendants, one might imagine to have been conveyedinto _la bella Italia_ by the agency of a magic wand. 

Promenading more eastward, we found ourselves _vis-a-vis_ the _MoorishPalace_, a fine reproduction of Saracenic architecture, the famousAlhambra in Granada, Spain. 

The attractions exhibited in the interior of this structure could, indeed, bear a comparison with those offered in a realm of enchantment. Theoptical illusions, produced by ingeniously arranged mirrors, were apleasing surprise to the visitor. Luxuriant palms decorating thelabyrinthian garden appeared to be endless in number--casting their shadeover hundreds of life-like figures in gaudy costumes. Each of these groupsin wax, was multiplied again and again in the perspective of mirrors. Entering the palace, the visitor was unable to shake off the feeling ofperplexity caused by the extraordinary spectacles to be witnessed withinits walls. The most startling surprises were the bottomless well, thecave, the monster kaleidoscope, and the panopticon. A touching scene, produced in wax, represented the execution of the unfortunate Queen MarieAntoinette. So realistic was its effect that many tender-hearted mortalscould not refrain from shedding tears of sympathy for the ill-fatedconsort of Louis XVI of France. 

A personage of special interest in the _Turkish Village_ was "Far-a-wayMoses"--the celebrated guide and counselor of Americans, visiting theshores of the Bosporus--who has been immortalized by Mark Twain. With apleasant smile his popular face, he gave a cordial greeting to everyvisitor. 

The various scenes constituted a true reproduction of Ottoman life. Thedecorations in the Turkish theater were in purely oriental style; and therepresentations on the stage showed the manners and customs of thecountries embracing the Turkish Empire. The Bedouin Camp, north of thegrand bazaar, displayed the peculiarities of a nomadic life of thoseArabian tribes. 

Adjacent to a Turkish cafe, the _Panorama of the Bernese Alps_ was onexhibition. A beautiful painting showed the grand scenery of Grindelwald, the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau, Schreckhorn, Jura, the village ofLauterbrunnen, and the little town of Thun. 

Ushered by a gate into the _Johore Village_, we viewed the habitations, weapons, apparels, and curiosities of that Malay tribe. The performancegiven by one of the natives stood in striking contrast with what weunderstand by the art of dancing. In fact, it was more a series ofgraceful poses with slow rythmic movements of hands and feet. Thispeculiar dance effected a strange impression upon us; but seemed to amuseour Baby Virginia beyond measure, who, on the arms of her faithful nurse, attempted to produce movements similar to those she had just witnessed. 

The _South Sea Islanders' Village_ exhibited Malays from Sumatra, Borneo, Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, and other islands belonging to Oceanica. Thehuts and their occupants had a strong resemblance with those of theJavanese village whose inhabitants, however, were more agreeable-lookingpeople. 

Paying a visit to _Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena_, we first admired hisfamous menagerie, which comprised rare varieties of quadrupeds, and a finecollection of birds. 

In a circus modeled on the plan of the Coliseum of Rome, we witnessedperformances that evinced the wonderful docility Mr. Hagenbeck's animalspossess, and manifested the complete control their trainers have overthem. 

We had already seen innumerable circus feats; but those performed on thisoccasion, surpassed them all. For, such a perfection in training ferociousanimals is extremely rare. _Vraiment_, the five Nubian giant lionsafforded an imposing aspect; and their performances were simply marvelous, indicating that--while human ingenuity and skill subdued the great forcesof nature to the use of mankind--also the fierce, majestic king of beastsis made submissive to man's will by his master power over all. 

_Industrial_, _Mining_, _Diving_, and _Horticultural Exhibits_ occupied theremaining space of this eastern portion, whose extremity was taken up by_Lady Aberdeen's Irish Village_. Here the displays were similar to thoseinclosed in Mrs. Hart's Irish Village, already described; but the novelfeature of _Blarney Castle_ was the renowned Magic Stone, supposed topossess extraordinary virtues. 

Thus, the unique Highway through the Nations afforded a prolific sourcefor sight-seeing, and furthermore, was a sore trial to our organs ofhearing. Musical and unmusical instruments of every description were inoperation--from the Javanese salendon and pelog to the tunefulinstruments, masterly handled by the excellent German bands. 

This visit to the Midway Plaisance established the fact, that thetheories--admitted by the study of geography--could not be brought intoconsideration. How should space and time be in existence when a few stepssufficed to convey us from the land of perpetual snow to the zone ofexotic plants and tropical fruit!

 "Who can all the tribes and nations name That to Plaisance from every climate came?"

The Chinese and Turk, German and Cingalese, Esquimaux and Javanese, Irishman and Polynesian, Bedouin and Laplander, Austrian and Soudanese, Syrian, Nubian, and Japanese--all had a temporary home within the limitsof a tract of land covering eighty acres. 

The sinking sun which crimsoned the structures of the Midway Plaisance, exhorted us to abandon this place of international _rendez-vous_--and toreturn on board the "Marguerite;" since she was to convey us back to theChicago Harbor. 

Gliding along on the crystalline lake, "We breathed the airs, not ruffling its face. Until we came to a quiet place. "

The latter we chose for our nightly abode; again casting anchor in theso-called Basin near the Chicago Breakwater. 

The approaching night fully deserved its title--the season of silence andrepose. The atmosphere was unusually mild. In the eastern portion of thesky the light of _Luna_ grew brighter and brighter. Her large, whitecircle silvered the tranquil waters and the environing scenes. In front ofus at the airy distance, we viewed the beautiful White City rising fromout the wave as from the stroke of the enchanter's wand; being brilliantlyillumined. Around us lights of many colors flashed from vessels of everydescription that lay moored in our vicinity. The scenic beauty of thesurroundings, the balmy air, the charming quietude on the lake--all thisfascinated us in such a manner as to make us reluctant to seek the repose, to which we were entitled by the long day's extraordinary experiences. 

On arriving at the Exposition Grounds the following morning, we observedthat--in spite of the early hour--the promenades were unusuallyfrequented. This fact was due to the celebration of the Illinois Day whichhad attracted a multitude of citizens from Chicago and environs. Inaccordance with our unanimous desire--to first view the interior of thelargest edifice, we entered one of its four great entrances designed inthe manner of triumphal arches. The MANUFACTURES BUILDING was erected forthe purpose of accommodating all classes of leading industries--theproducts of modern machinery and man's skillful handiwork--which, in thisepoch of constant progress, have attained a high stage of perfection. Andcomparing the achievements of the present age with those recorded in theannals of history, proves that opinion. 

Having stepped into the central aisle at the northern end of the mammothstructure, we found ourselves in a broad street, called Columbia Avenue. Glancing around, we were dazzled by the resplendent glory of an aspectalmost overpowering. The fine display included those exhibits whichexemplified most advantageously the modern industrial progress made by thevarious nations on the globe. Artistic pavilions, oriental pagodas, andquaint kiosks had been provided for most of the exhibits. The UnitedStates section--covering the entire range of manufactures, and extendingfrom the extreme northwestern corner to the avenue east and west--evincedthe high rank of the Union in the industrial world in consequence of itsuncommon wealth, and the inventive genius of Americans in the productionof labor-saving devices and improved machinery. 

All the great firms were represented, commending the abnormal variety ofdomestic industries. It was, indeed, a matter of difficulty to decidewhich of them was paramount. Tiffany's costly exhibits in jewels, especially diamonds, housed in a beautiful pavilion, attracted thevisitor's eyes. 

Opposite this structure, Germany had a stately building. Gobelintapestries and handsome furniture adorned its interior. The elegant roomswere modeled after the reception _salon_ of the Imperial Palace in Berlin, and that of King Louis of Bavaria. All the various products of industrialpursuits--inclosed in this pavilion--manifested the intelligence anddexterity of the German nation. 

Austria had a rich display, principally in jewelry and ornamentaldecorations, in an adjoining edifice. A splendid collection, includingeverything in the line of manufactures, was shown in the English Pavilion, which rose south of the German exhibits. Facing the former, Franceoccupied a structure whose walls were adorned with costly tapestries, andwhose ceramic, furniture, and household decorations were worthy of thehighest admiration. Next to the Belgian section a sumptuous pavilionhoused an enormous outlay of diverse Russian manufactures. 

At the southern end of Columbia Avenue a magnificent building formed thegateway to a rich collection of Italian art ware and industries. Thehandsome Spanish Pavilion was succeeded by typically Persian exhibitsconsisting prominently of carpets, curtains, silk needlework, andtapestries. Mexico, the land of _maņana_ and _poco tiempo_ was representedby costly decorations and art feather-work. The facade of the Siamesestructure--close by--covered with gold leaf, was imposing and attractive. Displays of manufactured goods had been made by scores of other countries, all of which to enumerate would be an impossibility. 

As we reached the northwestern portion of the gigantic building, we weredelighted with the sight of the Japanese Pavilion, one of the mostvaluable structures. Upon its construction the Japanese government hadexpended a great amount of money. The superb exhibits in works of art, bric-a-brac, and other exquisite manufactures brought to view by thisnation, evinced an eminent talent and great ingenuity. 

The Mikado--to whom is due the rapid progress civilization has made in hiscountry within the last ten years--was the first of the foreign monarchsto demonstrate an active interest in the exposition. 

The melodious chimes resounding from the belfry of a clock-tower in thecenter of Columbia Avenue, caused us to take notice of the rapidlyelapsing time. To our surprise, the immense time-piece indicated anadvanced hour in the afternoon. 

We could not abandon the superb temple, so amply filled with the productsof human industry, embracing that which was regally magnificent, as wellas that most applicable to our daily needs--without an enthusiasticthrill. If man is weak in many things, he is also grand in much; and everythoughtful observer must have paused upon this threshold to pay a tributeto that untiring energy which must make the world better for its existenceand progress. 

We entered the next great structure to the northwest. Here, the GOVERNMENTof the UNITED STATES from its Executive Departments, the SmithsonianInstitution, the U. S. Fish Commission, and the National Museum, exhibitedsuch articles and materials as illustrate the function and administrativefaculty of the government in time of piece, as well as its resources as awar power. 

Taking the south-entrance, our attention was first turned to thecollection of the Smithsonian exhibits. They showed the results ofscientific investigations during the forty-seven years of its existence, and the scope of its work. 

The contributions from the National Museum represented the naturalresources of the United States: Rare specimens of the American fauna;illustrations showing the geological variations within the limits of theUnited States and the utilization of nature's rich gifts bestowed uponthis country. This department gave us occasion to obtain an entire idea ofthe enormous melioration, arts and industries have experienced in moderntimes--by means of exhibits demonstrating the history and development ofceramics, graphic arts, musical instruments; as well as many importanttrades from the most primitive stages to the present day. Here also wereinteresting studies in ethnology, prehistoric anthropology, archeology, religious ceremonials, zoology, mineralogy, and geology. 

The Treasury Department--more westward--contained models, pictures, charts, and diagrams elucidating the Marine Hospital Service, Coast andGeodetic Survey, the Mint of the United States, the Bureau of Engravingand Printing, the U. S. Lighthouse Establishment, the Bureau of InternalRevenue, the Register's Office, and the Bureau of Statistics. 

In the adjoining division assigned to the Postoffice, we could trace thesubject of transportation which plays so prominent a part in the historyof civilization--by means of models, drawings, and pictures from the mostincipient stages to the modern uses of steam and electricity. 

The northwestern portion of this interesting building was given up to theDepartment of the Interior; embracing the Patent Office, the Bureau ofEducation, the Census Office, and the U. S. Geological Survey. 

In the rotunda we viewed the "_Big Tree_, " a section thirty feet inlength, cut from Sequoia Gigantea, a tree 300 feet high whose diameter atthe base covered a space of twenty-six feet. It grew in the SequoiaNational Park in the charming clime of California. Under the central domewere also shown 138 colonial exhibits--relics of historic value from dayslong gone by. 

The War Department was well represented in all its branches; regardinguniforms and equipage, means of transportation, military engineering, shooting apparatuses, ammunition, etc. 

Having visited the State and Justice Departments, we repaired to thedivision in which the government displayed (in the Department ofAgriculture) a very complete and comprehensively arranged collection ofgrains obtained in this and other countries. 

Very interesting were the adjacent exhibits, presenting to view the topicsof food adulteration, entomology, pomology, botany, ornithology, andmammalogy; together with experiments in fibre investigation. 

Betaking ourselves to the northern division, we were instructed--byvarious illustrations--of the methods employed by the scientific branch ofthe Fish Commission in determining the habits, peculiar to denizens ofwater. Models and apparatuses showed the results of Fish Culture. 

The displays in this unique building covering almost all the branches ofmodern science and arts, bore testimony to the fact that the United Statesnow rank with the most powerful nations on the globe; and to thisattainment only a little more than one century of development wasrequisite. This says everything for American enterprise and genius--and acountry so young in a very old world. 

The circumstance of its being a calm evening--with the prospect of apyrotechnic display later--permitted us to remain on the Fair Groundslonger than we usually did; hence we determined to visit still anotherstructure. 

By crossing a bridge over the lagoon, we arrived at the _FisheriesBuilding_. In the main edifice we first saw fishing-tackles, nets, andother apparatuses used by fishermen, and shown by the American Net andTwine Co. The contiguous space to the right was given up to the exhibitsof several States in the Union, especially noted for fisheries, and ofvarious foreign countries as Japan, the Netherlands, Canada, France, GreatBritain, Russia, and Norway. Walking through a curved arcade, we beheld oneither side aquaria of an enormous capacity, inclosing both denizens offresh and salt water. It is safe to say the display of aquatic life madehere, could rival the greatest permanent aquaria in existence; not only asto their voluminousness, but the immense variety of their specimens. Especially striking to the eye was a magnificent group of gold fishes. Thehuge bull-cat fish and the gigantic turtle were conspicuous by theirmonstrousness. We removed to the eastern extremity of the FisheriesBuilding, forming a spacious circular pavilion. In the rotunda a basin, twenty-six feet wide, presented a beautiful scenic effect. Over rockspicturesquely arranged, the silver meshes of a brook wound their way, forming here and there white gushes of waterfall which contrastedagreeably with the moss covered stones, and the semi-aquatic plants. Thelatter adorned the pool below, in which golden-hued fishes moved lightlyto and fro. The inspection of the angling pavilion at the extreme westernside of the Fisheries Building completed our visit in this fine structure, whose exhibits demonstrated largely the fishery wealth of the UnitedStates. 

Taking advantage of the extraordinary calmness of the atmosphere, ourmindful commodore resolved to moor the yacht in vicinity of the ExpositionGrounds. For, he wished to give us opportunity to witness the display ofpyrotechnics announced for the latter part of the evening, insolemnization of the Illinois Day. Therefore, the "Marguerite" conveyed usto a place which proved exceedingly favorable for our design. Here, ourfloating home was anchored. Enjoying a full vista of the White City, wefound a prolific source of admiration in the grand electric spectacles. The illumination of the _Columbia fountain_ in front of the AdministrationBuilding, and the display of two electric fountains in the westernextremity of the South Pond, were magical in effectiveness. Wonderfulflash-lights blazed from the tops of the tallest towers, surmounting thelarger structures. Whenever the operator threw the search-lightinvestigably over the yacht, we shut our eyes spontaneously at itsdazzling brilliancy. 

As the gathering shadows of night wrapped land and water in darkness, thehour arrived in which the visitors on the Fair Grounds--who seemed to bealmost as numerous as the sands on the shore--expected to view the sceniceffects produced by means of fire. 

We sat on the deck of the yacht as comfortably as in our _boudoirs_ athome. Nevertheless, we were able to enjoy _ad libitum_ the same sight thatso many others in the White City could only see with difficulty, onaccount of the unusual throngs. When we reflected on this circumstance--somuch in our favor--our hearts were filled with gratitude toward ourcommodore, who had selected this excellent locality. From here we admiredthe exceedingly fine pyrotechnic displays. Girandoles pierced the sky inall directions, with rushing lines of fire. Sky-rockets exhibiting richhues of purple, red, and green ascended through the air; and when reachingthe highest point of their blazing paths, they discharged beautifulgarnitures of floating stars, sparks, crackers, serpents, gold and silverrain. Tourbillions mounting and rotating through the atmosphere, formedbrilliant spiral curves of fire. Splendid effects of changing color werebrought to view by revolving fire-wheels. An appropriate _finale_constituted the burning of the American flag, which bore a sublimecharacter in the brightness of fire. 

 "Flag of the free heart's hope and home, By angel hands to valor given: Thy stars have lit the welkin dome, And all thy hues were born in heaven"

As the first faint smile of the morning peeped over the eastern wave, Irose--greatly refreshed by a sound sleep. Coming on deck, I found thatthe sun's unclouded orb already poured its rays of light upon the earth. 

Our eyes rested with delight on the White City throned on its numerousisles, looking like a sea Cybele--ascending from the lake with her tiaraof proud towers. 

At our arrival on the Fair Grounds, Mr. James thoughtfully provided uswith guides and rolling-chairs--vehicles which reminded us of the JapaneseJin-riki-sha. 

The main entrance of the AGRICULTURAL BUILDING--adorned on either side bymammoth Corinthian pillars--ushered us into a vestibule, richly ornamentedwith appropriate statuary. From here, we reached a rotunda surmounted by agigantic glass dome. When looking about on the main floor, we fanciedourselves to be in a city of pavilions. For, the States of the Union aswell as the foreign nations had environed their displays with magnificentlittle temples and pagodas. To a great extent, they formed exhibitsthemselves, because in most cases the chief products of the respectivecountry had been utilized for their construction. Nebraska, for example, had employed sweet corn for the erection of its pavilion. 

Every state and territory was represented by its productions; the NorthernStates with Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, rye, and other cereals; theSouth with cotton, rice, sugar, etc. Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky, and Tennessee evinced their noted superiority in the culture of thenicotian plant, which is in such great favor with the consumers oftobacco. 

Agricultural and other food displays were shown in great varieties by theforeign countries. In the German section the gigantic Chocolate Tower(built of several hundred tons of chocolate by the famous firm "GebruederStollwerck" in Cologne) compelled admiration. The Liebig exhibit of cannedand preserved meat was a prominent feature of this division. Great Britainshowed specimens of grain from the English experimental grounds, representing the effects of artificial fertilization on the various seeds. The contributions made by Canada embraced grain, seeds, and roots; and itseleven ton cheese constituted one of the unique exhibits in this edifice. As in all great departmental structures, Japan was well represented. Ithad a fine display of its chief exports--tea, rice, and raw silk. Russia'sshowing covered a space of 32, 000 feet. New South Wales, France, Mexico, Austria, Denmark, Sweden, and numerous other foreign countriesdemonstrated, likewise, the variety and wealth of their natural resources. 

Besides the farm products of the world in all their diversity andperfection, agricultural machinery was exhibited: Devices of everydescription from the most primitive implements to the highly improvedmachines as they are in use at the present day. The ingenious arrangementof this display enabled the visitor to perceive at a glance the enormousprogress made in that branch of industry. Thus, we viewed in the annex ofthe main floor one of the most perfected plows--the "Queen"--a trophy ofmodern inventiveness. And beside it stood an implement, which reminded usby its simplicity and unwieldiness of an apparatus, described in mythologyas used by _Ceres dea agriculturae_--when teaching to mankind thisimportant occupation. 

The south-western portion of the first floor was covered with instructivecontributions of American agricultural colleges and experiment stations. They embraced the entire field of scientific research in all branches ofhusbandry; illustrating the most improved methods of cultivation, andexplaining how the best results may be secured. 

The great galleries contained a fine wool exhibit, an interesting apiarydisplay, dairy implements, and a vast collection of manufactured foodproducts. 

The multitudinous objects brought to view in this building, proved beyonddoubt, that the standard of excellence in that ancient occupation has beenachieved mainly with the assistance of scientific researches. 

A colonnade formed the connecting link between the Palace of Agricultureand the Machinery Hall. In its center, from an archway--leading to the_live-stock exhibit_--we enjoyed a fine view down the lagoon--extendingnearly a mile in length. 

As adjuncts to the agricultural department, may be regarded the displaysin the _Dairy_ and _Forestry Buildings_. 

On entering the PALACE OF MECHANICAL ARTS, three elevated traveling cranesrunning from end to end of the structure, attracted our attention. Theyhad been utilized in the work of construction, as well as in moving themachines presented to view. The platforms erected upon them, gave usoccasion to look upon the entire machinery exhibition. The driving powerused in the main building and annex was steam; excepting two smallsections driven by electric motors. Adjoining the south side of theedifice extended the enormous power plant. It supplied the Machinery Hallwith a total steam power of about 3, 000 horses generated by twelveengines. The entire plant, comprising over sixty steam-engines, andoperating 127 dynamos, represented a most stupendous display of mechanicalenergy hitherto unequaled. Its total capacity was equivalent to 20, 000H. P. 

The domestic exhibits located in the western portion of the mainbuilding--but mostly in the annex, revealed the marvelous progress madeduring the last decades in this wonderfully prospering country. Shown bygreat firms from almost every state and territory were devices of variousforms: Motors and apparatuses for the generation and transmission ofpower--fire-engines and other appliances for extinguishing aconflagration--machine tools and devices for working metals--machinery forthe manufacture of textile fabrics and clothing, for cutting wood, fortypesetting, printing, embossing, book making and paper working, lithography, and photo-mechanical process, for working-stone, clay, andother minerals. In short, there were machines of every descriptionemployed in all industrial pursuits imaginable; yea, even appliances forfacilitating the housekeepers' daily duties as laundry- and dish-washingmachines. 

In fact, it must require a considerable effort to excogitate novellabor-saving devices. Nevertheless, man's ever active ingenuity constantlyincreases the number of meliorated contrivances. 

The pump exhibit was grouped around a tank of water, comprising an area of7, 500 feet. Here at the junction of the main hall and annex, scores ofmodern pumps were in active operation. 

Of the foreign countries we found Germany best represented, quantitativelyas well as qualitatively. The other prominent displays were made byFrance, Great Britain, Canada, Belgium, Russia, Spain, Italy, Mexico, NewSouth Wales, Austria, and Switzerland. 

Here, the mechanical engineer was enabled to make studies of incalculableprofit for his professional career; and even the lay mind received a vastamount of information. 

We abandoned the Machinery Hall at its northern extremity, and repaired tothe most magnificent structure on the Exposition Grounds. The exterior ofthe ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, so rich in architectural treatment, hadcompelled our admiration, to be sure; but the interior features evenexceeded it in splendor. The four mammoth entrances were beautifullyadorned by statuaries of emblematic character. There exist but fewedifices of similar character, whose ornamentations rival those of itsinterior dome, which rose 200 feet from the floor. 

The four corner pavilions, four stories high, contained offices for thevarious departments of the Administration; Board and Committee rooms; thePostoffice; a Bank, etc. 

An exhibit, manifesting the unrivaled wealth of the republic, and placedin the center of the rotunda on the first floor was an excellentreproduction of the Capitol in Washington in miniature, erected of silvercoins: indeed a master-piece. I shall leave it to the reader to find outhow many of the half dollar-pieces were needed for the construction ofthis unique building, contributed by the U. S. Government. To our regretMr. George R. Davis, Director-General of the Columbian exposition, whom weintended to call upon, was absent. So we determined to have theELECTRICITY BUILDING next in our programme. 

The sundry appliances of electricity dispersed in all parts of thegrounds, gave us already a conception of the incomparable rapidity withwhich it has developed--both as an industry and science. The intramuralrailway demonstrated the latest application of electric motor power toelevated railroads. 

The illumination of the grounds and buildings showed the marvelousprogress achieved in electric lighting, and the expertness in obtainingbrilliant spectacular effects. The electric launches on the lagoonsmanifested the usage of electricity for water-transportation. 

All these practical exhibits represented purely commercial features, whereas the displays in the building--we just had entered--offered a fieldof relevations as regards the extraordinary accomplishments in theelectrical science. They embraced all the improvements from the earlierinventions to the latest marvels. 

In the southern portion of the main floor, the United States showedvarious devices for creating the three economic commodities--light, heat, and power. 

With great interest we inspected the numerous apparatuses illustrating thephenomena and laws of electricity--the instruments for electricalmeasurements--the electric batteries--and the machines for producingelectrical currents by mechanical power. How transmission and regulationof these currents are effected, could be studied by a vast number ofdevices. 

A very interesting group constituted the electric motors and theirmanifold applications as to street and other railways; to mining, toelevators, pumps, printing presses, and domestic appliances. 

The creation of light by electricity was beautifully elucidated by theweird illumination of the Edison Light Tower in the center of thebuilding, and the Egyptian Temple in its south-eastern portion. Countlessincandescent lamps were glowing in all the colors of the rainbow. Theluminary effect gave us the impression as if a fiery serpent wasmeandering along these iridescent glass-tubes with inimitable velocity. 

Among the inventions of later date may be reckoned the use of electricityin heating; especially for industrial operations as electric forging, welding, brazing, tempering, etc. 

The lay mind is almost incapable of estimating the utilarian capacity ofthis great property. Even many branches of modern sciences have receivedeminent advancement by its utilization; such as surgery, dentistry, therapeutics, metallurgy, chemistry, etc. 

Germany and France made the most commendable foreign display. GreatBritain, Brazil, Austria, Italy, Japan, and Canada had contributed inaccordance with the development of this novel industry within theirterritory. 

The gallery was devoted to the wire exhibit and lighter scientificapparatuses. Here were placed all the recent improvements applied totelephony and telegraphy. 

Professor Elisha Gray's sensational invention--the telautograph--in activeoperation, attracted many spectators. It is a very ingenious contrivance, of which I have given a detailed description in my pamphlet onelectricity--recently published in Cincinnati, O. , by the BurgheimPublishing Co. 

The great number of exhibits demonstrated the achievements in the economicusage of electricity during an amazingly short period. In fact, theelectrician has obtained unequaled results in his profession. To him isdue--to a great extent--the high stage of perfection in sciences, arts, and industries at the present day. 

Nevertheless, the field of electrical scientific researches is by no meansexhausted. However, an entirely new era will have dawned, when theever-increasing knowledge reveals to an ingenious inventor a method toapply the electric current to every-day-usage as easily and inexpensivelyas we utilize water at present. 

Then the epoch has appeared which may be properly styled the "_Happy_" or"_Golden Age_. " For, many cares and sorrows will be removed at once. 

The conscientious housekeeper, for instance, whose domestic duties oftenexhaust her bodily strength, will find her burdens greatly lightened. Shehas no more to suffer from the intolerable heat of her cooking-stove, while furnishing repasts on oppressive summer days. The electric currentwill cause the water to boil--the meat to broil--and the potatoes to fry. Yea, her dinner will be cooked ere she is conscious of that fact. 

In like manner the electric flat-iron will smoothen her linen withoutfatiguing her. But not only the lady of the house will rejoice; also thepoor, hen-pecked husband will be in transports of delight, as it will makehis path easier in many ways. The constant complaints he was hithertoobliged to endure, will grow mute for ever, and the curtain lecture willbe no more. 

Furthermore, should circumstances compel the active business man to partwith his wife for a long time, the marvelous inventions enable theirmutual intercourse during the separation as if time and space were unknownfactors. The lady need not suffer long from inquietude concerning herhusband's safe arrival; for the receiving instrument of her telautographreproduces instantaneously his own handwriting. A parcel, sent to her byexpress, contains a cylinder to the improved phonograph. When bringing itin proper contact with this wonderful instrument, she hears her consort'svoice, just as if he was by her side, and a thousand leagues were but afew inches. Moreover, Edison's kimetograph portrays the beloved featuresof her absent spouse. She is now perfectly consoled; for the radiantexpression of his countenance manifests health and happiness. 

Having left the imposing Electricity Building, we repaired to a structurein close proximity dedicated to exhibits of the mineral kingdom. Neverbefore, the records of international expositions gave account of a similarfact; namely, that the display made of MINES AND MINING was so capaciousas to require the erection of a special edifice. Its size andarchitectural beauties rivaled those of the great structures in JacksonPark. The magnificent arched entrance of the north front was richlyembellished with sculptural decorations emblematic of mining and itsallied industries. This spacious gateway led us to the main floor, whichpresented a spectacle so weird that its impression cannot be easilyeffaced. In temples and pavilions of ineffable gorgeousness were exhibitsof gems and precious metals of dazzling beauty. Useful ores and theirproducts, building stones, soils, salt, petroleum--indeed, everything thatman furthers from the dark entrails of the earth, was offered toinspection. 

Besides the mineral resources of the world in their original state, thedisplays embraced many devices of mining machinery; such as pumps andengines used in mining, moving, and delivering ores; apparatuses forbreaking out ore and coal; for crushing and pulverizing; for reducingmetals, for instance the extraction of gold and silver by milling, lixiviation, and fire; furthermore, boring and drilling tools; grindingand polishing substances, etc. 

The galleries containing especially the metallurgical collection, had theappearance of the scientific department of a museum combined with thelaboratory and library of a university. 

Moreover, there were offered to view many interesting and instructiveworking models, various unique exhibits, and thousands of geologicalspecimens. 

Germany, France, and New South Wales were the leading foreign countries inthis building. Great Britain and her numerous colonies occupied thelargest collective space. The brilliant outlay of the Cape Colony included40, 000 rough diamonds, and illustrated the method of polishing them. Canada's mineral showing was so ponderous as to exceed the weight of 125tons. It comprised every known species of mineral, marble, and granite inthat country. In this enormous collection we discovered a block of purenickel weighing 4, 600 pounds as well as very large nuggets of native goldand silver. Mexico made its most extensive contributions to thisdepartmental structure. Brazil, the Argentine Republic, Russia, Spain, Greece, Italy, Japan, Belgium, Austria, Ecuador, and other foreign nationswere likewise well represented. 

The most prominent exhibits were grouped in the eastern section of theground floor. They proved the unexcelled mineral wealth of the UnitedStates, particularly in iron, the annual production exceeding 10, 000, 000tons. 

Pennsylvania took the leading place being pre-eminent in her iron andsteel industries. Her supremacy in the production of "black diamonds" wasmanifested by a rich display; one trophy from her immense coal-mines was ashaft of coal sixty-two feet high, and ten feet square. Colorado's fineexhibit of precious metals had, as an appropriate frame, a beautifulpavilion erected entirely from her local products. The abundance of goldin this important mining state is evinced by the fact that twenty-one ofher thirty-three counties are producing that most desirable and malleableof all metals. 

California--nicknamed the "Golden State"--showed among her vast resourcesgold, silver, platinum, quicksilver, copper, lead, zinc, iron, tin, graphite, crystal, alabaster, corundum, chrysolites, tourmalines, garnets, diamonds, and other gems. Montana had most largely contributed to thisdepartmental structure, and inclosed her display of precious metals in atemple adorned by the famous statue of Justice. Cast from pure silvervaluing $315, 000, and modeled after the celebrated actress--MademoiselleRehan--it was set upon a pedestal of gold, forming altogether a work ofart of rare magnificence. 

Michigan illustrated attractively her great copper industry; the depositsof this metal among the primary rocks of her northern section being therichest in the world. 

Of special interest were the mining products of New Jersey. This statefurnished minerals not found anywhere else; for instance thefranklinite--a compound of iron, zinc, and manganese--named from Dr. Franklin. 

Missouri, the first state in the Union to place exhibits in the MinesBuilding, environed the same with a beautiful pavilion built from localproducts. 

The curiosities included in the various State and Territorial displays, were too numerous to give an account of them all. 

Special features were--a miniature coal-mine shown by Iowa; a section ofthe world-renowned Mammoth Cave in Kentucky; a statue of rock saltrepresenting Lot's wife, a contribution from Louisiana; a tunnelcontaining a double tramway for the carrying of ore displayed byPennsylvania; a model of the largest lead-reducing works in the world fromMissouri; and a miner's cabin built of mineral specimens from thedifferent counties in the territory of New Mexico. 

All the mining exhibits--in their selectness and profusion--gave evidenceof the inexhaustible wealth yet stored up for man's future usesnotwithstanding the geological fact, that the earth's crust has no greatprofundity compared with its diameter. 

The "_Golden Door_" an immense archway enriched to an extraordinary degreewith carvings, paintings, and overlaid with gold leaf, ushered us into theTRANSPORTATION BUILDING. It was dedicated to present the origin, growth, and development of the various methods of abridging distance used in allparts of the inhabited globe--from remote antiquity up to the present day. 

We were charmed with a striking vista of richly ornamented colonnadeswhich added considerably to the impressive effect of the exhibits. Thelatter comprised three general divisions: the railway--marine--andordinary road vehicle transportation. 

To the first mentioned--as most important--a space of over eight acres hadbeen devoted. About one-eighth of this area was covered with the "Railwaysof the World, " an exhibit of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway Co. , showingthe development of locomotives and cars from the earliest days to themodern time. One of the unique features in the American Railroad Sectionwas the operation of air brakes on a train of a hundred cars, the longestever witnessed in a single series. 

In the center aisle of the annex, we inspected the chief display of thePullman Company, a complete train sumptuously equipped. It embracedspecially built Pullman Cars of the most luxurious character. Therepresentation of the New York & Chicago Limited Express was, withoutdoubt, the finest railway train ever constructed. 

We received a very adequate idea of the wonderful achievements--evincingthe genius of the age in which we live--in railway conveyance, by theout-of-door exhibit of the N. Y. Central & Hudson R. R. Co. , at the southernextremity of the annex. Here, the contrast between past and present wasmost sharply drawn: The first train, ever used for traffic in thiscountry, and running between Schenectady and Albany, N. Y. --the opening ofthis road was celebrated on the 24th of September, 1831--with its simpleDe Witt Clinton engine, was beside a locomotive of gigantic proportions, the fastest in the world. This stupendous piece of machinery constituted aportion of the Vanderbilt enterprise. 

In the German Section, two locomotives and seven kinds of_Eisenbahnwagen_, enabled us to decide upon the relative advantages ofthis foreign system and the American method of railway transportation. Great Britain contributed a complete train and locomotive, also a model ofone of the original Stephenson locomotives--the "Rocket. " The RailwayDivision of France comprised exceedingly interesting French locomotives, acar, and many models. In the Canadian exhibit, a complete transcontinentaltrain compelled admiration. Its cars built of solid mahogany, and lightedby electricity, were constructed and equipped by the Canadian PacificRailroad Company. Other foreign nations made their contributions to therailway division by models or illustrations of different kinds;prominently Austria, Belgium, Mexico, New South Wales, Sweden, and Norway. 

The means of water transportation were so diversified that theirmultiplicity can distinctly be conceived by those only who have viewedthem _in persona_. 

There were represented: the birch-bark canoe from Alaska--a Norwegiansteamship in miniature--the bimba or log canoe from Africa--the Bohemianpropeller--corials from British Guiana--the Japanese pleasure-boat"Hoomaru"--the padda boats from Ceylon--the caique from Turkey;furthermore, models of Spanish war-vessels--Malay boats--Swedishice-yachts--folding boats from Canada--Chinese war-ships--barges fromBurmah--French torpedo boats--characteristic coast-vessels from India--Venetian gondolas--Dutch coast sailing boats--the caravels, Santa Maria, Nina and Pinta, exhibited by Genoa--Siamese boats--life-boats--napthalaunches--and a great number of small craft shown by the United States. 

Of historic interest was the old _bateau_ employed by early French tradersfrom Quebec, and a model of a boat showing the style used on the Sea ofGalilee in the time of Christ. 

The artistic reproductions in miniature of various American, British, andGerman ocean steamers played an attractive part in this division. Amongthe models of war vessels was the representation of the ill-fated Englishcruiser "Victoria, " considered to be the finest marine model everconstructed. 

A section from the center of a modern Transatlantic liner reached to thetop line of the gallery; exhibiting a complete interior of an Americansteamer. 

The development of wheeled vehicles from the first inceptive idea of thewheel to the present appreciable methods of its use was comprehensivelyillustrated. The exhibits were so arranged that the different stages ofimprovement could be readily noticed. 

The methods employed for conveyance on common roads were shown byhand-barrows--carts--trucks--drays--farm wagons--sprinkling carts--freightwagons--breaks, barges, wagonettes for pleasure parties--omnibuses--cabs--hansoms--pleasure carriages, coaches for four or six horses, Victorias, broughams, dog-carts, buggies, phaetons, etc. ; besides sleighs--snowshoes--steam and electric carriages--ambulances for the sick andinjured--hearses; furthermore, bicycles and tricycles--rolling chairs forinvalids--baby carriages; in short, vehicles of every possible description. 

Almost all the nations on the globe had made their contributions to thedepartment of vehicle transportation. This rare collection embraced thepalanquin of Africa--the mandarin chair of China--the bullock cart ofCeylon--the sedan chair of Colombia (South America)--the Sicilian cart ofPalermo--the heavy lumbering cart of India--the queer traveling kroba ofTurkey--the volante of Spain--the tarantass of Russia--the hackney coachof France--and the dog-cart of England. 

Among the relics of special interest to Americans because of theirassociation with historical personages, we beheld the well preservedcarriages of Daniel Webster and James Knox Polk. 

A conspicuous feature in the central court was a model of the largeststeam hammer in the world, utilized in the manufacture of armor plate forvessels. 

On entering the PALACE OF HORTICULTURE north of the TransportationBuilding, our organs of sight and olfactory nerves were equally affectedby the dazzling and odoriferous display of exuberant flowers and fruitage. Had it been admissible, we would have been glad to put our organs oftasting in active operation, likewise. For, we longed to try the relish ofsome of the exquisite pomological exhibits, whose multiformity was tooimmense to be portrayed in a pen-picture. Fruits of every form anddescription, sent from all zones, climes, and countries were representedhere. Many of the exhibits were maintained at a high standard by beingconstantly replenished with fresh fruits at great expense, particularlythe Californian citrus pyramid, comprising 31, 150 oranges. 

The richly decorated court planted with ornamental shrubs and flowers, ledto the center pavilion which was roofed by a huge crystal dome. Thistranslucent cover transmitted the light and sunshine necessary for thefloricultural display beneath. Stately palms, tall tree ferns in greatvariety, and gorgeous specimens from the flora of almost every section, formed an immense pyramid of shrubbery. The luxuriously growing vinesentwined their tendrils around the iron-work of the building, addinggreatly to the beauty of the panorama. This superb spectacle recalled tomemory Horace Smith's "Hymn to the Flowers. " In one of its fifteenstanzas, the poet exclaims:

 "Not useless are ye, flowers, though made for pleasure, Blooming over field and wave, by day and night: From every source your sanction bids me treasure Harmless Delight. "

We descended a cavern, extending underneath this magnificent flowerexhibit. Our scrutinizing eyes met with quite novel features. We observedthat the grotto was lined with glistening crystals from the mammoth caveof South Dakota. Emerging again to broad daylight, we bent our stepssouthward to that portion of the building, where the silver model of theHorticultural Hall and the miniature Capitol of the Country compelled theadmiration of the beholder. 

The south pavilion encompassed the displays of viticulture. Representations of actual scenes in the vicinity of California vine-yards--wine cellars--cool grottos--and a highly ornamental fountain throwingsprays of wine, constituted the most attractive domestic scenes. 

A picturesque panorama of the vine-clad banks of the Rhine with itsromantically situated castles--reminiscences of feudal times--formed aportion of the German wine cellar exhibit; also comprising an excellentdisplay of _Rhein- und Moselweine_. 

Of the foreign wine-growing countries, the most attractive contributionswere made by Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, Germany, Chili, New SouthWales, and Canada. 

We abandoned the building in order to view the floricultural out-of-doorexhibits, which covered the large spaces on the lawns adjoining it and theWooded Island. 

Glancing at the beautiful orchids, roses, carnations, sweet peas, dianthus, asters, phlox, gladiolus, zinnias, and many other fragrantflowers, we experienced infinitely more subtle modulations of delight thancan be easily described. The features of the horticultural displays wereso striking that their memory is immortalized:--

 "For this picture in my brain Only fades to come again. "

In fact, we had witnessed multifarious sublime spectacles during thatday's sojourn in the White City. 

Returning to the pier where the "Marguerite" lay moored, we were greatlyamazed as we caught sight of Lake Michigan--to find its waters lashed intofury by a northeast gale, of which we had felt nothing while in thepleasantly tempered Horticultural Building. 

Since it was impossible to stay where we were, on account of the exposedsituation, there was no help for it--but to put out for our usualanchorage, inside the breakwater at Chicago. For my own part, I decided toremain on deck. Perhaps, had I realized more fully what we had toencounter, I should have sought my stateroom, with the rest. But I cantruly say: for three-quarters of an hour, my whole energies were employedto keep my place. 

During our entire journey from Schenectady, N. Y. , to the White City, wehad not experienced anything like it. Everything of a movable characterhad to be secured; and it was an intense relief to all, when after anextraordinary upheaval--the last effort of the uncontrolled waves upon ourstanch craft--she passed into the peaceful waters behind the breakwater;completely sheltered from the raging elements, which broke with ceaselessroar upon the concrete mass. 

The following morning as the rest of the party decided to remain inChicago for the purpose of viewing the renowned play "America" in theAuditorium, I visited Jackson Park alone, spending many hours in theLiberal Arts Building, which inclosed (besides multitudinous magnificentdisplays illustrating the department of Liberal Arts) the object of myspecial interest, viz. The educational exhibits. They comprised not onlycontributions from every State in the Union but also from Germany, GreatBritain, France, Mexico, Canada, Russia, New South Wales, Spain, Belgium, and Japan. 

The general character of them was represented by models and appliances forteaching, text-books, diagrams, examples, specimens of the school work onthe various scientific subjects, and illustrations of the methods employedin instruction by the teachers of the different States and Nations. 

By means of the ingenious arrangement of these displays, manifesting thegreat achievements made in the development of pedagogy, I augmented myprofessional learning during the hours of that day to such an extent aswould otherwise require months of careful study. The means of obtainingthese results of so great interest and profit to me as a teacher, weremuch facilitated by my knowledge of several of the languages spoken by thenations represented there. For, I readily understood the reports, statistics, and text-books sent from the educational institutions of theleading countries. Furthermore, the commissioners of the respectivesections, whom I addressed in their native tongue, complaisantly gave meall the additional information I desired. 

As I inspected, among the manifold exhibits contributed by the State ofNew York, the specimen work from the best pupils of the Art Students'League, some sketches from life and drawings from the antique attracted myspecial attention. They bore the signature of a young gentleman fromSchenectady--Walter M. Clute--a name which, I am certain, will be widelyknown in future years as that of a prominent artist of this country. 

We spent the following day--Sunday--in Chicago which is perhaps the mostremarkable city in the world for its rapid growth. Its history dates backto the year 1803, when Fort Dearborn was erected. Abandoned at thebeginning of the war with Great Britain in 1812, it was destroyed by theIndians; but rebuilt in 1816. The town was organized in 1833, and thefirst charter of a city passed by the Legislature, March 4, 1837. A numberof outlying suburbs of Chicago were annexed by popular vote so that thepresent area of the city covers 181 square miles; its population beingabout 1, 400, 000. When we consider the fact that in 1871 a great fire, sweeping over the business center of Chicago, laid more than 2, 000 acresin ruins, and then reflect on the city of to-day, rebuilt in a style ofgreat solidity and magnificence, with its innumerable handsome buildingsof stupendous proportions--its six hundred beautiful churches--and itsvast number of educational institutions, we cannot but admire the spiritof enterprise which evolved such wondrous prosperity in little more thantwo decades. 

The destructive fire constituted the largest conflagration of moderntimes. Commencing by the overturning of a lamp in a district built upalmost exclusively of wood, about nine o'clock in the evening of October8, 1871, it continued through that night and the greater part of the nextday. Finally, it was checked by the explosion of gunpowder, whereupon itexhausted itself by burning all there was to ignite within the confinedspace. Although 18, 000 houses had been reduced to ashes, ten yearsthereafter all traces of the calamity had disappeared. 

It would be impossible to give a description of all the fine buildingswhich have made Chicago famous. The principal hotel--probably the largestin the world--is the "Auditorium, " having its dining halls on the tenthfloor. All the conveniences that modern ingenuity has excogitated--inaccordance with the requirements of the present era--have been introducedinto this huge structure. It includes a theater having a seating capacityfor 6, 000 spectators. 

The park system of Chicago is one of the most extensive in the world. Jackson and Washington Parks belong to the south division, whereas thewestern section inside the city limits comprises three; known as Humboldt, Garfield, and Douglas Parks. Their ornamentation is varied by superbflower-beds, fountains, statues, and monuments. Lincoln Park--including azoological garden, and being romantically situated upon the lake shore inthe northern portion of the city--constitutes a delightful place ofamusement for pleasure-seekers. The parks are all connected byboulevards--some of them 200 feet wide--encircling the city, and affordinga continuous drive of thirty-five miles. 

The trade of Chicago is enormous. Its chief items are grain, live-stock, meat products, and lumber. It principally manufactures iron and steel, wood, brick, leather, chemicals, boots and shoes, cigars and tobacco. 

The next day after our return to the Chicago Harbor in the evening, Mrs. Dr. McDonald of Chicago accompanied by her brother, Mr. Bernard, paid us avisit on board the "Marguerite. " Miss Campbell made the acquaintance ofthis amiable lady during her last trip to Europe; and they weretraveling-companions, spending many pleasant days journeying togetherin the old world. 

The WOMAN'S BUILDING was the first structure to be inspected after ournext arrival on the Exposition Grounds, according to the programme forthat day. It represented a great museum filled with countlesscontributions made by women. The superb displays of paintings, ceramics, art work, manufactures, liberal arts, embroideries, fancy work, laces;moreover, dentistry, surgery, authorship, pedagogy, etc. , and works offemale artisans--evinced that womankind is able to compete with man, notonly in the arts and sciences and in the more delicate achievements ofhandiwork, but in almost every department of human activity. Even theexterior of this handsome building, erected in the style of the Italianrenaissance after the design of Miss Sophia G. Hayden of Boston--with itsexquisite sculptural decorations--executed by Miss Alice Rideout of St. Francisco--bore testimony to the fact, that women are entitled to enterinto competition with their male colleagues. 

Here, we beheld exhibits forwarded to this unique structure by women ofevery clime and section of the globe. Even ladies of European monarchalfamilies were represented--the Queen of England and her daughters by worksof art--the Empresses of Germany, Russia, and Austria as well as the Queenof Italy by costly laces--often the work of their own hands--andinvaluable jewels--with romantic histories. 

The decorative needle-work exhibit constituted a very selected andcomplete collection; there being offered to view pieces of embroidery tothe value of $8, 000. 

All that was to be seen in this edifice proved the opinion that women arejustified in demanding a position equal to men. 

Nevertheless, many refuse to acknowledge this claim of equalization bypronouncing woman inferior to man concerning intellectual abilities. Dailyexperience and the records of the past, however, demonstrate sufficientlythat many modern industrial pursuits have successfully been carried on byfemale activity. Not only the occupations, which require manual dexterityand good taste, also the higher branches of various sciences and arts havebeen excellently mastered by educated ladies, performing professionalduties, whose execution demands a vast amount of intelligence andlearning. Thus the official U. S. Census of 1890 contained the enumerationof 2, 438 doctresses; 110 female lawyers; 2, 136 architectresses; and155, 000 lady teachers in public schools. Among the students, attending thediverse colleges in the Republic, more than 18, 000 are young ladies. Evenas inventors, women have distinguished themselves, as we may judge fromthe fact that during the last three decades, about 2, 500 patents have beengranted to female claimants, and scientific papers published--in 1884--alist of contrivances deriving their existence from the inventiveness offemales. 

Of the uncountable evidences of woman's inventive genius, the enumerationof the following devices and improvements may suffice: a chain elevator;an appliance for lessening the noise of elevated cars; a lubricating feltfor diminishing friction (very useful for railroad cars); a portablewater-reservoir for extinguishing small fires; an apparatus for weighingwool (one of the most sensitive machines ever invented, and ofincalculable advantage for the wool industry); a rotary loom (performingthrice the work of an ordinary one); furthermore, manifold improvements tothe sewing-machine, such as a device for threading the needle while themachine is in full operation; an appliance for sewing leather--contrivedby a woman in New York who runs a saddlery business there--; and manyothers. To the sensational inventions, originated in female brains, belong--the sea-telescope devised by Mrs. Mather, an instrument for thepurpose of examining the keel of a ship without requiring her being putinto the dry-dock--and a complicated machine for manufacturing paper bags, a very intricate affair which many eminent mechanicians have made butunsuccessful efforts to contrive. Since then, Miss Maggie Knight, theinventress of the machine above mentioned, has found out another; namelyfor folding paper-bags. The latter performs the work of thirty men, andhas been put up under that lady's personal supervision in Amherst, Mass. 

The wonderful achievements made by women in America, have not beenattained by females of any other country on the globe. This circumstanceis mainly due to the fact that the public school as well as the collegesystem in the United States--contrary to that of other nations--makes afinished education accessible to both men and women. 

According to a report given by President White of the University ofMichigan--an institution that admits students of both sexes--out of 1, 300attendants of the Greek class, the best scholar was a young lady. Inmathematics and other scientific studies, girls had the highest standing. Furthermore, the profession of teaching in this country is principally inthe hands of women; which proves that the possibility of cultivating thefemale mind to a high stage of perfection is absolutely unquestionable. 

Moreover, philosophers of modern times have demonstrated that it is wrongto assign to woman a position inferior to man by basing it on thetheory--that her brains have smaller dimensions. For, it is not thequantity of the _viscus_ alone that settles this scientific question; butthe weight of the brains in direct proportion to that of the person'sbody. 

Recent scientific researches, accomplished by the noted Parisianphysiologist Broca, yielded the result that the ratio of woman's brainscompared with man's, contains even a surplus of one to four per cent. 

Now, that science acknowledges that the female intellect is educable tothe same degree as that of man; would it not appear to be a perversion ofjudgment to undervalue ingenuity, because it accidentally had its seat infemale brains? Would it not be unjust to leave talents undeveloped andwithout cultivation, simply because a woman possesses them?

The active part woman took in the promotion of the Columbian Exposition isadditional proof of her ability; and on this occasion she comes to thefront rank more than ever before in her history. 

Repairing to the northern portion of the park, we entered the "ART PALACE"through the southern of its four main entrances. We found ourselves in agallery where the magnificent sculpture exhibit captivated our eyes. 

In the court running east and west, we beheld a fine display ofarchitecture showing models of many famous edifices in the world, andtheir exquisite portals and architectural ornaments. 

The American section located in the northeastern part of the building, comprised a collection _par excellence_ of elegant paintings, masterpiecesfrom the best artists of this country. Very interesting was theretrospective art exhibit in this department; illustrating the variousstages in the development of American art, from its incipiency to thepresent perfection. 

The remaining space in the eastern pavilion was taken up by the French_division_, which--we acknowledged unanimously--contained the mostlaudable contribution made by a foreign nation. 

Great Britain's select display, representing some of its great artists, constituted the most extensive foreign section next to France. 

German art was represented by 580 fine paintings, including all the Germanschools that have gained celebrity; as the Bavarian in Munich--the Saxonin Dresden--and many others. --Holland, Belgium, Russia, Spain, Austria, Italy, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, and Canada had their share in the splendideffect, likewise. 

The Japanese showing, elucidating the style of art, peculiar to thatskillful nation, was very attractive and novel. 

If we trace back the records of the previous international expositions, wecannot find any report giving account of a similar collection representingmodern works of art. In consequence of political causes, France had seldommade contributions to any but her own _expositions_. But the UnitedStates, not fostering hostility with any nation, was universally assistedin her gigantic enterprise. In fact, it would require volumes to describein detail this elaborate display, whose prominent part--the homeexhibits--verified Irving's words: "In America literature and the elegantarts must grow up side by side with the coarser plants of dailynecessity. "

The Art Palace environed groups and figures in marble and bronze, andother sculptural master-pieces--paintings in oil and water colors, onivory, enamel, metal, and porcelain--fresco paintings on walls--engravings--etchings--pastel and many studies in chalk and charcoal; inshort, every description of modern progress in this direction, even toexcellent effects produced on wood with hot irons. 

Art is but the human effort to seize some of Nature's notable transitoryfeatures to perpetuate them. The unusual scenes of grandeur and of beautyour divine mother reveals to us in some of her moods, we adore, while theyare inspirations to the poet and painter; and in this untiring course ofart, many geniuses have become apotheosized. 

To take a lovely landscape at sunset: when from the side of someenchanting stream, you look toward the mountains in the west, and see thecrimson and light blue curtains of the evening slowly shaken out; theirfringes of burnished gold glowing with indescribable magnificence--who canportray it and do it justice? This evening robing of those variegatedcrests! That mingling of color, until it fades into deep violet dyes! Theyin their turn passing away to give place to the jewels of the night, whoseunchanging song of eternal praise goes on----

Before such scenes, a Corot, or an Aubert dips the pencil in the glowingsky, and transfers its hues to the canvas; so that, in after time, oursouls are gladdened by some retrospect, which makes life dearer to usamidst its cares. 

We must not consider art as the rival of nature, but her child that paysto her the most graceful tribute of homage by making her impressionspermanent. 

Highly interesting exhibits were presented to view in the _AnthropologicalBuilding_, including instructive ethnological and archaeologicalcollections. In connection with the latter section were the relics shownin the Convent de la Rabida--where Columbus, almost discouraged, found acordial reception and kind assistance from Father de la Marchena--; theYucatan Ruins--an illustration of ancient architecture and sculpture--;the homes of the Cliff Dwellers--vestiges of probably the earliestcivilization of the American continent--; the Spanish Caravels--built inSpain for the Exposition--; the Viking Ship--reproduced from a Norwegianvessel a thousand years old--; and the Esquimaux Village--exhibitingnatives (their habitations, and sports), reindeers, and Esquimaux dogs. 

The handsome structures erected by the Foreign Nations as well as thosebuilt by the States and Territories of the Union, were designedparticularly for the entertainment of those visitors who constituted theirrespective representatives. Nevertheless, many of them were beautifullyand expensively fitted up; inclosing magnificent native products. Theirunique features were so manifold that it would be an impossibility todescribe them deservingly without dedicating a volume to that purpose. 

The nineteen foreign buildings, each of which illustrated some classicstyle of architecture--peculiar to the nation represented--constituted anadditional great feature of the Columbian Exposition. They gave thevisitor an adequate conception of the construction and luxurious equipmentof edifices abroad. In fact, on entering the buildings of Germany, France, Great Britain, Spain, New South Wales, Ceylon, Canada, Sweden, Costa Rica, Hayti, Guatemala, Japan, etc. , we fancied ourselves to be suddenlyconveyed to these foreign countries. 

With a few exceptions, all the forty-four States and five Territories ofthe Union, had their share in the beautiful effect produced by theirstructures, erected--at a considerable expense--of such material aselucidated the prominent natural resources of the respective states. Manyof the edifices were modeled after buildings noted for some historicalevent. Thus, the New York Building was a reproduction, slightly modified, of the old Van Rensselaer residence, whose quaint architecture recalled amost interesting period in our national history, when the great metropolisof to-day was but a small sea-port town. 

This World's Fair, which has recently been brought to a close, evinced tothe millions of visitors, who were drawn by its multitudinous attractionsto the White City from every section of this country, and from almostevery quarter of the globe that it eclipsed in grandeur and excellence allof the previous universal expositions; for everything that good taste andmodern genius could suggest and accomplish, was brought into play. 

The financial account given by the auditor of the Columbian Fair standsthus: The entire cost of the Exposition to its close and the winding up ofits affairs amounted to $26, 288, 685. 67. Its total receipts were$28, 151, 168. 75; thus exceeding the expenditure by $1, 862, 483. 08. 

The wonderful and rapid development of the international expositions maybe recognized by the following statistics, compiled from the annals oftheir short history:

Ordinal Year. Location. Area Duration Exhibitors Visitors Number in Acres in Days

 1 1851 London 20. 06 144 17, 000 6, 039, 000 2 1855 Paris 24. 71 200 21, 779 5, 162, 000 3 1862 London 22. 24 171 28, 653 6, 211, 000 4 1867 Paris 29. 44 217 50, 236 10, 200, 000 5 1873 Vienna 39. 54 186 42, 000 7, 254, 000 6 1876 Philadelphia 59. 31 184 60, 000 9, 900, 000 7 1878 Paris 59. 31 194 32, 000 13, 000, 000 8 1889 Paris 74. 14 183 60, 000 32, 000, 000 9 1893 Chicago.. Exp 533. 00 183 50, 000 27, 412, 728 ... MP 80. 00

Unable to obtain the exact figures denoting the number of exhibitors ofthe Columbian Exposition from any authentical source of information, Iintroduced into the above table the number of 50, 000, mentioned in anewspaper, and therefore not absolutely reliable. 

 CONCLUSION. 

The universal verdict is--that the World's Columbian Exposition at Chicagowas a great success; and although disappearing like a dream, it will be alasting and useful one. The mention of a few features, at once creditableto the age, and pointing hopefully to the future, may suffice to provethis opinion: Notwithstanding the great rivalry between nations, there hasnot been a particle of jealousy, or unkind criticism exhibited at thesegreat congresses. Intelligent and representative people have been broughttogether from all parts of the earth, who--on returning to theirhomes--carried with them the germs of better feeling, which will have atendency to break up the barriers of bitter prejudices and bigotryhitherto existing. The less favored and darker parts of our earth comemore into the light. Our children have had lessons, which no history orgeography could convey; our women have taken a stand from which they neverwill recede. In the presence of the wonders shown us, and all the grandefforts of human genius, we become less selfish and more humane; a greaterrespect for each other is evoked. Yes, it has been a good thing!

All honor to the nations of the earth, who so generously have come forwardwith their best treasures, not sparing trouble or expense in thispromoting, grand feature of human progress! The millions spent here, havebeen well employed; and we can safely say that--but for the unfortunatefact that during the time of the exposition, we were passing through aseason of unusual financial depression--the attendance at the World's Fairwould have been much larger. Nevertheless, it was a great success. Allhonor to the Hon. George R. Davis, the General Director! All honor to hisco-laborers! All honor to every one who did anything to push it along!For, it is gone--giving the pulse of the world the holiest thrill it everhad since its creation. 

FINIS.